RV-Archive.digest.vol-fp
October 10, 1998 - October 15, 1998
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 (fitting sliding canopy side skirts)
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> Have any 6/6A slider builders had any problems with the canopy latch
> handle being too short?
> Also, was there an "AD" on the suspended rudder pedals on the 6/6A as
> there was on the floor mounted rudder pedals?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> Finally got a computer after much pressure from my RV friends. Still
> trying to learn how to use it. Have been following the posts and hope I may
> be able to contribute in some way.
>
> Eustace Bowhay C-FHAY RV6 (amphib. floats)
> Blind Bay British Columbia
>
Eustace,
Welcome to the list. By any chance, are you still a source for
lycomings??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballistic Recovery System |
>
>They say the BRS can handle up to 1800lbs Gross weight, but I would think
>the plane needs to be designed around the system. For instance, on an RV8,
>where would you mount the thing so that you don't end up tearing the plane
>apart when you have to deploy it at 225 MPH?
I guess my point was that the plane would already be tearing apart when you
deployed it. Say a wing seperation or some such. I most likely wouldn't
deploy the chute for a simple engine failure. I don't know how much speed
if any the aircraft would bleed off as it flips through the air minus one
wing. I am not very confidant that if the plane was spinning wildly that I
would be able to locate the deployment mechanism and operate it.
I would assume that it has to
>go right above, or near the CG. What would happen if it accidentally
>deployed?
Probably tear the plane apart just shortly before the 'chute departs the
airplane.
>Has anyone heard of a BRS saving the passengers in an 1800lb
>airplane?
Has it been installed on one?
>I know they are testing it on that Cirrus, but are they actually
>letting it hit the ground? You come down at something like 30FPS, and that's
>still pretty fast.
Yes be the idea is that the airplane absorbs much of the impact. If you
get out with some scratches and broken bones that it still much better than
hitting the ground sans wing.
>The BRS is a viable solution for ultralights, but I don't
>think they are quite ready to strap the thing to a high performance airplane
>just yet, especially as a retro fit.
Personally I don't think so either.
I intend to wear a parachute in my RV,
>and am asking around to see what I can do to make the canopy jettisonable,
>as I've heard you can't get a slider open in flight.
I just brought the subject up because people were thinking of BRS
parachutes in terms of engine out emergencies. My point was that there are
other failure modes in which a BRS deployment would make sense (as in a
wing separation scenario.) I have no idea if a BRS could or even should be
installed for the very reasons you give. Merely that one should think
about these things.
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 Page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>
>
>
>>
>>>
>>>Van also commented about a BRS in a recent RVator - he said, as I recall,
>>>that the structural changes needed would be extensive, and he thought that
>>>the weight penalty would be great - as I recall his remarks.
>>>
>>>We had one plane here (a Canadian ultra-like plane, a "Beaver") that had
>an
>>>engine out incident. Rather than deploying the BRS (it costs a lot to have
>>>them repacked) the pilot elected to put it down in a fairly clear field;
>>>only one tree in the area. You guessed it, he put it down into the tree
>>>top. Fortunately he's OK, the plane is pretty well smashed up tho! Maybe
>>>the BRS isn't too good an idea in all circumstances!
>>
>>
>>This is probably a terribly insensative thing to say, but I never been
>>known for my diplomacy. If I was building an RV-8, I would think long and
>>hard about putting a BRS into my plane. At least until they find out why
>>that wing came off....
>>--
>>Scott VanArtsdalen
>>svanarts(at)jps.net
>>
>>"The essence of character is doing what's right,
>>even when nobody's looking."
>> - J. C. Watts
>>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
>Again, think about the conditions in which YOU would deploy the chute. Here
>are three "typical" scenarios where chutes are deployed.
>
>1. The airplane is in unrecoverable high speed flight (Mach tuck, poorly
>performed split-S, ...). Here, a smaller chute out the back of the airplane
>is the best answer - yet loads are VERY high.
>
>2. The airplane is in an unrecoverable stall and/or spin. Here, a chute out
>the aft end of the airplane works well (known as a spin chute), but you'll
>want to be able to release it later.
>
>3. The airplane has structural damage. If the airplane is structurally
>damaged, it will most likely NOT be doing straight and level flight. Where
>is the chute going to go? Will it be a good umbrella, a streamer, or put
>the nose, tail or top of the aircraft toward the ground?
>
>If you want to save something, make it yourself, and improve YOUR odds of
>survival; ditch the aluminum. If you fly acro, wear a chute (and fly high
>enough). When performing hazardous tests, we carry four chutes - two on the
>aft end of the airplane and one on each of us. Both chutes on the aft end
>of the airplane are high speed or low speed, depending on the test. Both
>shoot out the aft end of the airplane (one at a time), and both can be
>released from the airplane after the event is over. They are designed to
>bring the airplane back to a stable condition (not designed to save the
>aircraft but rather to allow the crew to get out if recovery cannot be
>accomplished from the chute deployed flight condition).
>
>Fly smart. Adding stuff doesn't always make the airplane safer.
Excellent points. I wouldn't try to argue against them. This is the type
of discussion I was trying to provoke. I said in an earlier reply that if
the airplane was sans a wing and uncontrollable, I'm not so sure that I
could locate and operate any kind of BRS deployment mechanism.
>ps2 As for the -8 proto, I have 110% confidence in Van's design. All
>airplanes will come apart when over-G occurs. The BRS would not have helped
>here, either.
This is the point that I really don't want to think about but I have to.
It all boils down to the fact that it had to either be pilot error or a
design flaw. Two scenarios that I hate to even ponder.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Left Elevator Hits H. Stab Rear Spar Flange |
Hung left elevator on horiz stab today and drilled elevator horn to
center bearing. Noticed that elevator horn hits rear spar flange after
"not much" down travel.
Is this something where I'll trim the flange later on when setting
limits on elevator? Or, have I somehow got the horns on backwards so
the "wide" side is forward? I can't visualize (yet?) how I could have
put them on with the "thin" side of horn forward to have more travel.
David Carter, RV-6, starting wing (I hope - or starting two new
elevators??)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Left Elevator Hits H. Stab Rear Spar Flange |
David Carter wrote:
>
>
> Hung left elevator on horiz stab today and drilled elevator horn to
> center bearing. Noticed that elevator horn hits rear spar flange after
> "not much" down travel.
>
> Is this something where I'll trim the flange later on when setting
> limits on elevator?
David,
I don't know why Van does not include this in the manual. But the answer
is Yes!, you will have to trim some of the flange away to get the proper
down travel.
Gary Zilik
6A 22993 fitting the frigging rear canopy skirts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration and Taxes |
And here in Wisconsin you pay sales tax (5.5%) and for Experimentals, a one time
$50 registration fee that's good as long as you own it (applies to
antique/classics as well).
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have the solution!!
> >
> > Move to Oregon and save the sales tax and shipping costs!!
> >
> > Rob Hickman
> > RV-4
> >
> Yup, no sales tax and it cost us $37.00 a year for state registration.
>
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
--
Scott
1986 Corben Junior Ace
N3642
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Left Elevator Hits H. Stab Rear Spar |
>
>Hung left elevator on horiz stab today and drilled elevator horn to
>center bearing. Noticed that elevator horn hits rear spar flange after
>"not much" down travel.
>
>Is this something where I'll trim the flange later on when setting
>limits on elevator? Or, have I somehow got the horns on backwards so
>the "wide" side is forward? I can't visualize (yet?) how I could have
>put them on with the "thin" side of horn forward to have more travel.
>
It is necessary to trim the flange. See archives.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q Cranked engine yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks for feedback on elevator travel |
Thanks for putting my mind at ease. Now I won't have nightmares
tonight.
David Carter, RV-6, starting wings, Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Nice RV-4 for sale / trade for 6/A |
The RV-4 "ARSA Fighter" needs a new home. I've got a new bride who wants to
share the front seat and learn to fly, I've got a new job and a new house, and
those will take time that the RV-4 really needs for normal maintenance.
The RV-4 has a fresh annual, 160 HP, gyros, GPS, and glideslope, and is worth
$39K, other things being equal. However, it needs the new gear fairings put
on, the spinner and backplate failed annual and were removed, so there's some
cosmetic stuff to be done that I just don't have time for -- and all the shop
tools are still in boxes, somewhere...
Reasonable, genuine offers will be entertained. Low ball offers will be
rejoined with puns.
As part of the move, we'll have a new email address, so please phone queries
to me at 425 898-9856
Ed Wischmeyer
PS. Finder's fee of $250
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Left Elevator Hits H. Stab Rear Spar Flange |
Dave, several of us (all that I have talked to) have had the same problem. We
just notched the flange on the rear spar about 3/16-1/4 of an inch to get the
necessary travel. This should not cause any structure problen, because the
spar joins here and you have a butt joint anyway.
Rollie RV6A
Wing Kit to be shiped Octobere 12
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
Re RV-8, you said
"This is the point that I really don't want to think about but I have to.
It all boils down to the fact that it had to either be pilot error or a
design flaw. Two scenarios that I hate to even ponder".
The exact cause of this and many other accidents may never be known. There
are other potential causes. Something I can imagine happening involves a
blockage, jamming or passenger obstruction of the flight controls that the
pilot is attempting to overpower (read pulling with both hands) the
blockage suddenly releases causing subsequent overstress!
In my humble opinion the facts released to date boil down to nothing as to
initial cause, and it is unfair to the pilot and/or designer for ameteurs
to speculate publicly.
George McNutt 6A wings
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nice RV-4 for sale / trade for 6/A |
I think I know where your plane is. Send me the 250.00 and I'll
tell you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
On 7 Oct 98, at 19:57, Joe D Wiza wrote:
> It was suggested from a reliable source to fill the compression chambers
> with oil turn the engine upside down and fill with approx 5 gallon's of
> oil. (long term storage) any comn\ents. planejoe(at)aol.com fusleage
Lycoming tech support made that same suggestion to me some time
ago. If it weren't for all the work involved in removing a hooked up
engine I'd do it that way.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rivet substitutes- 6A |
Does anybody know of a substitute for a solid rivet in a
structural area? What about a cherry max? I'm referring to
an occassional substitute of course. I'm having trouble
with one of the rivets that joins the hs405 to the front
spar. I'm working inside an acute angle here with no luck.
Thanks, Adrian Chick rv6a.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
>
>Re RV-8, you said
>
>"This is the point that I really don't want to think about but I have to.
>It all boils down to the fact that it had to either be pilot error or a
>design flaw. Two scenarios that I hate to even ponder".
>
>The exact cause of this and many other accidents may never be known. There
>are other potential causes. Something I can imagine happening involves a
>blockage, jamming or passenger obstruction of the flight controls that the
>pilot is attempting to overpower (read pulling with both hands) the
>blockage suddenly releases causing subsequent overstress!
>In my humble opinion the facts released to date boil down to nothing as to
>initial cause, and it is unfair to the pilot and/or designer for ameteurs
>to speculate publicly.
But now you've just blamed the passenger and that isn't fair either. You
know and I know that the NTSB is only going to chalk it up to one of two
things....
But this is getting off my original point.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Another Gear Failure |
Listers:
While at Copperstate yesterday, it seems that another nose gear on a -6A has
failed. I have only heard preliminary reports, but it failed on landing and
beat up the prop...I will post more info if I get any more info...maybe
Scott knows something about it?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Finish Kit almost here!
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Left Elevator Hits H. Stab Rear Spar Flange |
FWIW, my manual dated 11/17/97 didn't have the instruction but they updated
it in the manual dated 4/28/98. It needs to be removed. Be careful, DO NOT
cut into the HS-409PP bar. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in
Nov., Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>>
>> Is this something where I'll trim the flange later on when setting
>> limits on elevator?
>
>David,
>
>I don't know why Van does not include this in the manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 pictures updated |
I have updated my web site with some new fuselage pictures, including
installing the landing gear, tail, and engine. Check them out...comments
welcome.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
What if only Monica is looking???
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>svanarts(at)jps.net
>
>"The essence of character is doing what's right,
>even when nobody's looking."
> - J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Am I the only one having trouble with getting messages back from the
archives? I can get a good list of searches, but no response when one is
selected. Have noticed this for some time now. Am I doing something stupid?
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody want a LOW TIME "Dick De Mars" prepared AEIO-360 200 hp
Lycoming engine and prop for $15,000.00? (Not a Wreck or a run out) Call Tom
Hahn at 561-465-0003 for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
I am just about finished with my wings and was wondering how other builders
trimmed off the outboard inch of the main spar where it interfers with the
instalation of the wingtips. Also, before I skin the tops of the wings, is
there any reason ( such as having the FAA inspector inspect the inside of the
wing) that I should leave the top skin off until later? Thanks in advance.
Brian Trubee RV-4 #2366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Ballistic Recovery System |
This was all discussed some time ago, and my comments are still in the
archive. I'll give them again, briefly:
1. Most engine failures are due to running out of gas. Therefore it
would be better to add 25 lbs of gas to your plane than 25 lbs of BRS.
And an ounce of commonsense to your head.
2. Many other RV crashes are due to low-level acro. A BRS won't help
there.
3. In a 25kt wind, you'll come down at 25kts groundspeed under your
BRS. If you fly your RV to a landing, you'll also be doing about 25kts
groundspeed (assuming you land directly into wind), and with less
vertical speed than under the BRS, AND you'll be landing under
control.
lottmc(at)datasync.com wrote:
> Not meaning to be sarcastic, but, I would like to see how many rv
> pilots could safely put there plane down in a few hundred feet in
> a pinch.
So what's the ground roll going to be with a BRS?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | N925RV gear leg failure |
Fred,
Do you know if the manufacturing process of the nose gear leg has changed
since your original (failed) gear leg was made? I believe that the main
gear on the -8's are now shot peened for stress relief. When you installed
the new leg, how well did it line up with your original bolt hole? I wonder
if Scott McDaniels knows how well a new predrilled gear leg will fit on an
engine mount that was originally predrilled from the factory. With $25K
invested firewall forward, it may be cheap insurance to change the nose gear
leg every 300-500 hrs.
I'm a little spooked now that another -6A has lost a nose gear leg on landing.
Thanks for keeping us up to date on this incident.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying and about to add "Magnaflux the nose gear leg"
to the annual inspection checklist
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
I thought my handle was a little short but was able to "make it work" for a
few attempts, right up until two days before my inspection when I was
double checking the latching and the handle exploded under tension. Now
it's a little longer and works great.
Marcus
RV-6, Just took it camping, what a great airplane
>
> Have any 6/6A slider builders had any problems with the canopy latch
> handle being too short? We don't have very good edge distance for the
hole
> through the latch tube even when drilling the hole through the bottom of
the
> aluminum handle.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Randy;
I did not use any thread sealant on the tank screws, and have never heard
of any suggestion or reason to do so.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming engines |
I am no longer a source for engines. It is getting to hard to find quality
cores or any cores for that matter with good records. Looks like we
homebuilders have just about used up all of the good used engines. I have
been refering any inquires to Sport Aero at 1 800 667 0522. Ask for Bart
LaLonde.
Unfortunetly for most of us working with limited bugets I can see the day
when Van's new engines will likely be the best bet.
Eustace Bowhay
Blind Bay, B C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel sender floats |
Listers:
Just finished installing my fuel tank senders, the standard Stewart Warner
type from Van's. Van's packs a nice drawing in there that shows the bends in
the float wire, and also the orientation of everything including the
assymetrical floats. When installing according to these plans the rearmost
tank stiffener seems to interfere with the float. When I flip the floats
around then there's no interference but it doesn't match the plans. I went
with the latter. Has anyone else notice this, or am I nuts? (don't want to
have guage problems down the road)
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, N558RL reserved
Finishing wings
Camas, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kurt" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com> |
I took a piece of scrap aluminum, slid it between the spar stub and the
skin, then used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut it back. The
scrap keeps the cut off wheel from going into the skin. I just trimmed it
enough so that the tips cleared.
Kurt
-----Original Message-----
From: Bktrub(at)aol.com <Bktrub(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 11, 1998 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rv-4 wing
>
>I am just about finished with my wings and was wondering how other builders
>trimmed off the outboard inch of the main spar where it interfers with the
>instalation of the wingtips. Also, before I skin the tops of the wings, is
>there any reason ( such as having the FAA inspector inspect the inside of
the
>wing) that I should leave the top skin off until later? Thanks in advance.
>Brian Trubee RV-4 #2366
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
I used a 3" cut-off wheel in a die grinder, then sanded flush. It is
tricky, so be careful.
You can close the wing any time. If you may want to run more wires, mount
antennas in the tips, etc, you can wait to close the final skin. If you are
comfortable you have everything installed, you can close them now. I
riveted the final skins (bottom in my case) after I finished fitting the
flaps and ailerons.
The only FAA inspection required is before the first flight.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>I am just about finished with my wings and was wondering how other builders
>trimmed off the outboard inch of the main spar where it interfers with the
>instalation of the wingtips. Also, before I skin the tops of the wings, is
>there any reason ( such as having the FAA inspector inspect the inside of
the
>wing) that I should leave the top skin off until later? Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
>Randy;
>
>Was that $14,250 for an engine from Aero Sport for a 0-320, or 0-360?
>
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Von,
Mine is a O-320-D2A. I think the base price was
around $11,000 - $11,500. I added electronic
ignition, chrome, spin on oil filter, vacuum pump,
and had him drop the alternator (too small).
Total price $13,975. Add $330 for shipping,
Regarding the alignment pins, I'm sorry to hear that
some folks have had trouble. I guess I should have said
"If you have an O-320-D2A and you want to save some
time........." They worked great for me. Maybe I
was just lucky or maybe it was the aviation God helping
me out since he gave me such fits with the sliding
canopy frame?
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Slider working in firewall forward.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming engines |
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> I am no longer a source for engines. It is getting to hard to find quality
> cores or any cores for that matter with good records. Looks like we
> homebuilders have just about used up all of the good used engines. I have
> been refering any inquires to Sport Aero at 1 800 667 0522. Ask for Bart
> LaLonde.
>
> Unfortunetly for most of us working with limited bugets I can see the day
> when Van's new engines will likely be the best bet.
>
> Eustace Bowhay
> Blind Bay, B C
>
Eustace,
Hate to hear that you are out of the engine business. I've heard good
things about the quality of your work. I,m dreading having to look for
an engine because of the junk that is being misrepresented out there.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary |
Bad News: Thre was another 6A front gear leg failure yesterday at Copperstate.
Owner was taxiing and leg broke just inside the motor mount housing. This was
all I could find out about it. I'm sure there will be more info forth coming.
Walt RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
I love the RV4 and yes the 6 also and my Kfox is a happy little airplane and
what could be nicer than a Cub -----but----in my dreams I fly a Long Midget
Mustang. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
WHAT KIND OF PROP?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Midget Mustang |
JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I love the RV4 and yes the 6 also and my Kfox is a happy little airplane and
> what could be nicer than a Cub -----but----in my dreams I fly a Long Midget
> Mustang. JR
>
Hi JR,
I once saw a lovely lady who flies a polished Midget Mustang, ....she's
in my dreams!
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
>
>You can close the wing any time. If you may want to run more wires, mount
>antennas in the tips, etc, you can wait to close the final skin. If you are
>comfortable you have everything installed, you can close them now. I
>riveted the final skins (bottom in my case) after I finished fitting the
>flaps and ailerons.
>
>The only FAA inspection required is before the first flight.
Yes ... but if you are working with an EAA Technical Counselor, then he
would probably like to see inside the wings before the final skin is
installed.
You are using an EAA Technical Counselor aren't you?? The nearest one
is easily obtained by asking at the next EAA Chapter meeting....:^)
... Gil (EAA TC #3661) Alexander
>
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraigst(at)ionet.net
>RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 wins Copperstate Custom Built |
| From: | rv6a(at)Juno.com (Paul A. Rosales) |
I am happy to announce that Dwain Harris' beautiful blue RV-6 won 1st
place category for Custom Metal Built at Copperstate 98! Some guy with a
Glasair (a local) won grand champion. I can't remember who/what aircraft
won the metal category in 1996 but I do know that RVs have won this
category since I started going in 1995 with Dennis & Joy Keith's RV-6A,
and 1997 Copperstate Grand Champion Rich & Karol Hansen's RV-6A. Way to
go Dwain!
Paul Rosales
RV-6A (yea, I know Dwain, just a -6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Gear Failure |
| From: | rv6a(at)Juno.com (Paul A. Rosales) |
>While at Copperstate yesterday, it seems that another nose gear on a
>-6A has failed. I have only heard preliminary reports, but it failed on
>landing and beat up the prop..
>
Just returned from Copperstate tonight.....Rich Hansen and I found Marv &
Maxine Horn's RV-6A (stored) nose down in the farthest reaches of the
worth, we were able to reach under and 'feel' inside the gear leg tube.
We could feel that the gear leg snapped about 1/4-1/2" up into the tube.
I'm hoping that he only needs another wood prop and lower cowl. No
opinions here, just a shared observation. Paul Rosales
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Marcus,
It seems like the tube on the handle is a little short. A breaking handle
while away from tools could be a little frustrating. I'm surprised that
I've not seen any comments on this on the list (that I can remember). We
drilled the hole through the lower part of the handle but that still doesn't
give much edge distance on the latch tube.
Bob Skinner RV-6 450 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I thought my handle was a little short but was able to "make it work" for a
>few attempts, right up until two days before my inspection when I was
>double checking the latching and the handle exploded under tension. Now
>it's a little longer and works great.
>Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McLaughlJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aerofab Trim Wheel |
Has anyone out there tried the Aerofab trim wheel? I searched the archives,
but could not find an actual user. If there are any users, could we have a
pirep? Thanks.
Joel Mclaughlin
(trying to decide how to control the trim)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Air sickness |
I find the eardots work very well with no drowsiness, but they are only
suitable for passengers as they can effect the vision. The effect is to
cause a loss of short sight. On me this made it impossible to read.
Brian
>
> I was crewing a sailboat a few years ago from Houston to Corpus Christi
(a long
> trip for me) and I was concerned about seasickness. My friend gave me a
small
> plastic dot which you stuck to the back of your earlobe. There was no
hint of
> seasickness for two days but I did get "dry mouth". The other guys on the
boat
> said the "eardots" were the way to go and pretty much the standard of the
boating
> community, especially for wives. I don't know what the drug is but it is
> prescription. It may be a good solution for someone who doesn't know
about it. See
> your doctor.
>
> Joe Walker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Air sickness |
The late Neil Williams, once World Aerobatics champion, says in his book
"Aerobatics", that to avoid airsickness one should eat before flying and do
the seat belt up tight to stop vertical movement off the seat. It is the
change in pressure on one's seat which he claims causes the sensation of
one stomach moving. He say's the stomach does'nt move, and strapping down
tight eliminates the sensation. Unfortunatly the RV's have their harness
attach points so far aft that no matter how tight the belt is it will not
stop vertical movement. The present belt angle is only about 35 degrees off
horizontal. NASA recommends 45 to 55 degrees. Van suggested a crotch strap
would be helpful in an issue of RVator which showed a photo of one, but has
not produced a drawing for same. I note that they are standard on the 8 and
consider this a step in the right direction. I find that a tight belt does
help in other aircraft so perhaps the retro fit of a crotch strap would
help keep your wifes breakfast down. It would also stop your head from
hitting the canopy, a not uncommon occurence in turbulence in low wing
loading fast aircraft such as the RV's. Brian
> > can a person get acclimated to motion sickness?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I am just about finished with my wings and was wondering how other builders
trimmed off the outboard inch of the main spar where it interferes with the
installation of the wingtips.>>
I believe that the plans for the 6/6A state that one should cut a 1" x 1"
chamfer on the top and bottom corners.
<< Also, before I skin the tops of the wings, is
there any reason (such as having the FAA inspector inspect the inside of the
wing) that I should leave the top skin off until later? >>
The FAA doesn't care. If you haven't built your fuselage and rigged the
controls you should wait until this is done. If you are done with the rigging
you should let the EAA Technical Counselor check things out before you rivet
final skins in place IMO.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Anyone have a picture of the F-633 control column bolted in fuselage on a
website?
Regards Mike Comeaux
Thanx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Pig Roast, engine baffle hint, some advice |
Listers,
For those of you who were close enough and didn' t take the time to go
to Chet's pig roast at Sparta, IL, you missed a good time. That's too
bad because Bob Pretzsch and I really enjoyed ourselves and had a
great two hour cross country flight each way from central KY. One
visitor came from MD! I hope this becomes an annual event.
After going to Chet's pig roast, I finally found out where all of the clam
shell RVs are! Around here, all I ever get to see is sliders and feel left
out! :-) That made me feel more encouraged about mine.
Now, the biggy for me. I asked about the clearance for the center
baffle bulkhead to inlet duct clearance the other day. As usual, I got
no answer to my question from the RV-list. I got my answer there when
I peeked into a couple of inlets. For those of you behind me, it's about
1/4" to 3/8" to allow for side to side vibrations. You may want to seal
that somehow, since it's a gap that could let out a lot of air, as well as
the gapping hole behind the bulkhead that's formed by the transition of
the inlet to the top of the cowl.
Another thing I got out of the trip is that we are losing listers because
the info coming out of the RV-list isn't as informative as it used to be. I
know we all have time shortages that may not allow us to answer
questions for the ones behind us; but, some of us must take the time if
we are to keep this list open to what it's supposed to be used for. I
have found that I can't even get simple questions answered anymore,
when I ask. However, get a discussion going about ballistic chutes,
and the tread goes forever. We must redirect our discussions
somewhat to help our brethren who haven't finished and want to join
those of you who have. Personally, I find the discussions about broken
gear legs more informative than chute discussions since I like to think
that ultralights need them more than we do. Of course, that just my
opinion. Anyway, if you fellas could just take a little time to answer
some of our questions so that we don't lose listers, it would be
appreciated. We must stick together. As for me, I hate to do it; but,
I've begun to transitioned back to getting my answers from Van's if I
really want an answer to a question. I can no longer depend on you
guys for them. It's sad; but, we are losing too many people on the list
because they don't want zillions of uninformative messages and get fed
up when they can't get help. Gee, it seems I've preached this before
and got flamed for it.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Working in the engine area)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | planejoe(at)Juno.com (Joe D Wiza) |
Welcome to the list Eustace looking forward to hearing about the floats
and your other ideas pertaining to the RV.
Joe Wiza
planejoe(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Finally got a computer after much pressure from my RV friends. Still
>trying to learn how to use it. Have been following the posts and hope
>I may
>be able to contribute in some way.
>
>Eustace Bowhay C-FHAY RV6 (amphib. floats)
>Blind Bay British Columbia
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Pig Roast, engine baffle hint, some advice |
Good post, Jim. I would answer your questions, but you're way ahead of me
now. Thanks for posting the answers to your own questions. I'll need them
one of these days.
Steve Soule
Working his day job at nights and on weekends
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears [mailto:sears(at)searnet.com]
.......... we are losing listers because
the info coming out of the RV-list isn't as informative as
it used to be. I
know we all have time shortages that may not allow us to
answer
questions for the ones behind us; but, some of us must take
the time if
we are to keep this list open to what it's supposed to be
used for. I
have found that I can't even get simple questions answered
anymore,
when I ask. However, get a discussion going about ballistic
chutes,
and the tread goes forever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
> Regarding the alignment pins, I'm sorry to hear that
> some folks have had trouble.
I used these alignment pins on an 0-360 A1A and had no problems
with them. There must be some difference in individual engines.
Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX
RV-4 Just a few more months.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine baffle hint |
<< I asked about the clearance for the center
baffle bulkhead to inlet duct clearance the other day. As usual, I got
no answer to my question from the RV-list. >>
Well, I was at Copperstate, so I'm writing this on Mon morning. Sorry.
A rule of thumb (from Tony's wonderful books) is to be able to slide your
finger between the baffling and the cowl. I've seen this posted before, so it
may be in the archives, or at least it will be now!
As with all baffles, seal it up with some of that nifty orange rubber stuff,
prefreably the type with the re-inforcing threads in it.
On another note: Has anyone become disillusioned with the uneven top edge on
the rear baffle, and the associated small pcs of baffle strip you must cut to
seal that area? Why not make that area a straight run, to allow for a tighter
sealing baffle? You would cut the rear baffle a bit shorter, and fit a new
upper edge with the appropriate bends and joggles to allow for a single pc of
sealing strip to run from corner to corner.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
Top Headlines from AVweb's NewsWire
WHITHER TRIMBLE? AVIONICS COMPANY POISED TO ABANDON GA MARKET?
The last few weeks have not been good ones at Trimble Navigation. The
manufacturer of avionics and other navigation devices closed out a very
poor third financial quarter, losing $36.5 million, finding yet another
way for an aviation-related company to turn a large fortune into a small
one.
On Monday of last week, Trimble informed the Mooney Aircraft
Corporation that they are getting out of the GA nav/comm market. The
move came after a vote by Trimble's Board of Directors which AVweb has
been told was as surprising to the employees within the division as it
was to Mooney.
Mooney officials tell AVweb that Trimble's board voted
to cut their losses and get out of GA to concentrate on more profitable
ventures, and, indeed, Trimble issued a press release saying that it was
restructuring its operations and ending production of certain products
at its Austin, Texas plant where its GA operations are located.
However,on Friday, Trimble spokesperson Leann McNabb would say only that the
company is "reviewing and considering a number of options." She told
AVweb no decisions have been made and that it will be at least a week
before anything is decided.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The short and the long of it |
| From: | planejoe(at)Juno.com (Joe D Wiza) |
Attended the RV fly in at Lebanon Airport (Just east of Nashville). I
must say it was a terrific experience. Met Robert Redmon and Bill Libby
experienced some formation flying for the first time along with valuable
building tips. Couldn't have felt more welcomed by the local folks, plan
on attending again next year hopefully with our completed rv6a.
The wife and I each had a one hour flying lesson with Mike Seager
in the rv6 excellent instructor a must for anyone contemplating eventual
flight in the rv.
However we just experienced an unexpected problem my wife is 5'2"
and I'm 6 foot. I could reach the rudder peddles easily in Mike's plane
but my wife had a problem. Even with pillow under seat and on back side
her legs were straight out to the rudder peddles and up against the
stick. If I move the peddles back that means I'll be crammed. Has anyone
had the same problem? How about forming a U in the control stick on her
side???
planejoe(at)juno.com
RV6A/fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming engines |
In a message dated 10/11/98 11:12:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
calverjl(at)flash.net writes:
<< Hate to hear that you are out of the engine business. I've heard good
things about the quality of your work. >>
He didn't say he was out of business. He said he was no longer a source for
engine cores.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Another Gear Failure |
Listers,
Does anybody know when this particular kit was purchased. It would be
very interesting to find that the failure was caused by "surface
conditions we are now aware of --" on an older gear leg.......
Buyer beware gentlemen, buyer beware...... Maybe it's time for us to
pass the word on to others.......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv6a(at)juno.com [SMTP:rv6a(at)juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 1998 12:25 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Gear Failure
>
>
> Just returned from Copperstate tonight.....Rich Hansen and I found
> Marv &
> Maxine Horn's RV-6A (stored) nose down in the farthest reaches of the
> it's
> worth, we were able to reach under and 'feel' inside the gear leg
> tube.
> We could feel that the gear leg snapped about 1/4-1/2" up into the
> tube.
> I'm hoping that he only needs another wood prop and lower cowl. No
> opinions here, just a shared observation. Paul Rosales
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ...some advice |
In a message dated 10/12/98 7:28:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
<< Now, the biggy for me. I asked about the clearance for the center
baffle bulkhead to inlet duct clearance the other day. >>
Jim, I saw your question last week and didn't respond to it because I didn't
understand it. I still don't know what the center baffle bulkhead is so I
can't relate its position to the inlet ramps. Now that I see the answer to
your own question I assume that you meant the clearance between the baffle and
the cowling, perhaps more specifically the REAR bulkhead. (?)
When I looked at your question I didn't have the time to try and figure-out
what information you were looking for. If I took two minutes to think about it
I'm sure I would have figured it out, but I looked at it and went on.
This IS NOT meant to be a flame and is not directed (only) at you Jim but,
please make sure your questions are clear and concise. I'm sure no one
responded to your request because no one knew what a center baffle bulkhead
was.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Listers,
Got back from Copperstate yesterday. While unloading
the RV4 I noticed the first 4 rivets that hold the lower hinge
half to the fuselage were popped. ?? The aft ones are fine??
This is with 197hrs ac time. Of course the question is why?
Has any one else experienced this?? I do remember that pop
rivets are used so the canopy will tear away for egress.
RV4 273sb Stew Bergner CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Van's refusal to share info |
Bruce & listers,
The message I sent out originally had a few more paragraphs that I
decided were not worth sending out to the whole list. In them, I had
basically stated that I have taken the stance that I would not consider
legal action against Van's as I felt that it was non-productive for general
aviation. In fact, I have said that to Van's organization from the very
start, in writing. My concerns have been and continue to be for the overall
safety of flying, not for financial gain or even the replacement of the
funds spent on repairs (although it would have certainly helped... I'm not
that well off..).
It is my hope that the more recent failure of a front gear leg at
CopperState now opens everyone's eyes to a potential problem that Mr.
VanGrunsven seems to be keeping quite about. This failure, which seems to
have happened while taxiing, emphasizes even more the need for everyone with
an older kit date, or with more than 300 Hrs on their planes, to do a
through inspection on their front gear legs. This "ounce of prevention" may
prove to save you many $$$$$...
As a side note, Based upon my recent experience, I would strongly suggest
that the gear leg not be sent to Van's for analysis. Independent tests
should be made first by a reliable testing house. Only after independent
testing should the gear be sent to Van's.
Van seems to be taking the attitude that these are "experimental
aircraft and do not conform to the normal certification standards" and
therefore failures should be expected. It is up to us, as the end users, to
deal with "surface conditions we are now aware of--" Let's keep the channels
of communications open........
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Knoll [SMTP:tripod(at)vvm.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 9:09 PM
> To: Stucklen, Frederic IFC
> Subject: Van's refusal to share info
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> I am disturbed that Van will not share the metallurgical information with
> you, the owner of the affected plane. The first suspicion is "what is he
> hiding?". At the risk of being a rabel rouser, If it were me, I would
> consider legal action. It is not Vans piece of metal, but yours and you
> have a sales invoice to prove it.
> I would suspect that you would share the information with the RV community
> for our benefit. Perhaps the NTSB could get the info for you.
>
> I am starting (empennage) to build a rv6a. This deliberate non information
> from Vans is certainly cause for pause and concern to me, and perhaps
> others. Please keep the list and / or me informed of further developments.
>
> Thank you and good luck,
>
> Bruce Knoll
> tripod(at)vvm.com
> 254-770-1145
> Temple, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Winfield Bowers' RV-4 went down with 2 aboard. N741WB Paper said 2 dead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | N925RV gear leg failure |
Scott and listers:
From my understanding, the manufacturing process for the front gear leg
is different now as compared to how it was done back when I built my kit
(1991) but I'm not sure when it changed. On my original leg, the mount /leg
were fitted together after the manufacturing process. A new leg required
refitting it to the motor mount. The new method is for the leg to be
dimensionally the same between legs, making them interchangeable. There are
other process changes, but I can't remember what they are.....
Adding "Magnaflux the nose gear leg" to the annual inspection
checklist is a good idea, but maybe every other year, or after a bad shimmy
problem is more reasonable.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Gesele [SMTP:scottg(at)icsnet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 11, 1998 3:34 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: N925RV gear leg failure
>
>
> Fred,
>
> Do you know if the manufacturing process of the nose gear leg has changed
> since your original (failed) gear leg was made? I believe that the main
> gear on the -8's are now shot peened for stress relief. When you
> installed
> the new leg, how well did it line up with your original bolt hole? I
> wonder
> if Scott McDaniels knows how well a new predrilled gear leg will fit on an
> engine mount that was originally predrilled from the factory. With $25K
> invested firewall forward, it may be cheap insurance to change the nose
> gear
> leg every 300-500 hrs.
>
> I'm a little spooked now that another -6A has lost a nose gear leg on
> landing.
>
> Thanks for keeping us up to date on this incident.
>
> Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying and about to add "Magnaflux the nose gear
> leg"
> to the annual inspection checklist
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
Just so the new ones know, it is possible to mount the engine without any
'alignment pins'. I am a first timer, and mounted my 0-360 in about an
hour. I did have my son to help me, and I followed Vans directions in the
manual. Everything went together fine.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
<"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> writes:
><"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com>
>
>> Regarding the alignment pins, I'm sorry to hear that
>> some folks have had trouble.
>
> I used these alignment pins on an 0-360 A1A and had no
>problems
>with them. There must be some difference in individual engines.
>
> Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX
> RV-4 Just a few more months.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Midget Mustang |
I bought the plans to a M-1. . . . . then compared overall top-to-bottom end
performance of the M-1 and RV-3. . . . . .talked to a couple Mustang pilots
about why they never fly their aircraft anymore (had something to do with
leading edge inconsistencies and 1-2 survivable stall/spin entries on
base-to-final). . . . . .& now I have RV-3 SN45 project! Still like the
looks of the M-1, especially when I envision the in-line 140hp LOM engine
that is in Jim Ayers Maroon Marauder. . . .po' man's P-51. . . . . . . .?
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (finishing spar mod on left wing)
Socorro, NM
-----Original Message-----
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com <JRWillJR(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 11, 1998 9:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Midget Mustang
>
>I love the RV4 and yes the 6 also and my Kfox is a happy little airplane
and
>what could be nicer than a Cub -----but----in my dreams I fly a Long Midget
>Mustang. JR
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint, some advice |
<< I asked about the clearance for the center
baffle bulkhead to inlet duct clearance the other day. As usual, I got
no answer to my question from the RV-list. I got my answer there when
I peeked into a couple of inlets. For those of you behind me, it's about
1/4" to 3/8" to allow for side to side vibrations. >>
As with life, better questions get better answers. Using part numbers helps,
as that reduces confusion. After all, what is a center baffle bulkhead?
Another reason is that much of this info is actually in the manual.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
>
>Listers;
>Just so the new ones know, it is possible to mount the engine without any
>'alignment pins'. I am a first timer, and mounted my 0-360 in about an
>hour. I did have my son to help me, and I followed Vans directions in the
>manual. Everything went together fine.
>
I am also a first-timer that also installed my engine (O-320D2J) without
alignment pins. I did it by myself in less than an hour without any
instruction other than the builders manual. In fact, I did it twice,
because I initially forgot to install the infamous oil pressure port fitting.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 287 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The short and the long of it |
>
> However we just experienced an unexpected problem my wife is 5'2"
>and I'm 6 foot. I could reach the rudder peddles easily in Mike's plane
>but my wife had a problem. Even with pillow under seat and on back side
>her legs were straight out to the rudder peddles and up against the
>stick. If I move the peddles back that means I'll be crammed. Has anyone
>had the same problem? How about forming a U in the control stick on her
>side???
Joe,
Check the archives for some good info on this problem. I am 6'4, my
soon-to-be wife 5'4. I have fabricated a second set of pedals, identical to
the first, which mount on three 3" standoffs (tubing with a bolt through it,
blind nuts of the forward side of the first set of pedals).
This brings the second set of pedals 3" lower and closer. Don't know how
the braking will work out yet, if it doesn't we'll have to come up with
another solution then.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Warp drive props |
Does any have any experience using the Warp Drive prop on a RV6A. I am
starting my search for a prop and tring to gather any info I can.
Thanks,
Pat Kirkpatrick
Rio Rancho, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint, some advice |
> no answer to my question from the RV-list. > As with life, better
questions get better answers. Using part numbers helps,
> as that reduces confusion. After all, what is a center baffle bulkhead?
> Another reason is that much of this info is actually in the manual.
I must second that motion. I have rarely responded to a technical question
openly, and have instead sent a post direct to the questioner.
The reason is that there are 800 listers out there and I feel that there
has GOT to be somebody that will answer and knows a lot more than I do.
I really am sorry when I hear that a guy got no response as that is what
the list is for. I just don't want to come off as a "know it all" 'cause I
sure don't. Also, early in the game, I did post the odd technical answer
only to get blasted by someone who really had a strong opinion and a
different view. Who needs it ?
If I can relate to a particular problem, I usually reply at length
telling what I found. I still make boo-boos and yes, I still drill under
my fingernails, I am still learning and I hope others get the help they
need..Again...my apologies..Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/12/98 9:57:32 Central Daylight Time, RVer273sb(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I noticed the first 4 rivets that hold the lower hinge half to the fuselage
were popped. >>
Have you ever noticed any dark grey or black residue (smoking) around the
rivets? If so, the indication is of relative motion between the rivets and the
hinge.
Based on the fact that the rivets let go, indicates that they "might" have
been worn in two. (Relative motion.)
Shearing is also a possibility. Shearing of the rivets could be an indication
that the airflow may be getting under your canopy skirt, and trying to lift it
off the fuselage. I'd really have to see it.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
Fred:
Did your gear crack in the same place and in the way as the one in Copperstate?
There was
a posting, I presume you read, yesterday describing the type of failure.
Joe Walker
RV-6
Houston
Stucklen, Frederic IFC wrote:
>
> Bruce & listers,
>
> The message I sent out originally had a few more paragraphs that I
> decided were not worth sending out to the whole list. In them, I had
> basically stated that I have taken the stance that I would not consider
> legal action against Van's as I felt that it was non-productive for general
> aviation. In fact, I have said that to Van's organization from the very
> start, in writing. My concerns have been and continue to be for the overall
> safety of flying, not for financial gain or even the replacement of the
> funds spent on repairs (although it would have certainly helped... I'm not
> that well off..).
>
> It is my hope that the more recent failure of a front gear leg at
> CopperState now opens everyone's eyes to a potential problem that Mr.
> VanGrunsven seems to be keeping quite about. This failure, which seems to
> have happened while taxiing, emphasizes even more the need for everyone with
> an older kit date, or with more than 300 Hrs on their planes, to do a
> through inspection on their front gear legs. This "ounce of prevention" may
> prove to save you many $$$$$...
>
> As a side note, Based upon my recent experience, I would strongly suggest
> that the gear leg not be sent to Van's for analysis. Independent tests
> should be made first by a reliable testing house. Only after independent
> testing should the gear be sent to Van's.
>
> Van seems to be taking the attitude that these are "experimental
> aircraft and do not conform to the normal certification standards" and
> therefore failures should be expected. It is up to us, as the end users, to
> deal with "surface conditions we are now aware of--" Let's keep the channels
> of communications open........
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV RV-6A
> E. Windsor, Ct
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Knoll [SMTP:tripod(at)vvm.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 9:09 PM
> > To: Stucklen, Frederic IFC
> > Subject: Van's refusal to share info
> >
> > Hi Fred,
> >
> > I am disturbed that Van will not share the metallurgical information with
> > you, the owner of the affected plane. The first suspicion is "what is he
> > hiding?". At the risk of being a rabel rouser, If it were me, I would
> > consider legal action. It is not Vans piece of metal, but yours and you
> > have a sales invoice to prove it.
> > I would suspect that you would share the information with the RV community
> > for our benefit. Perhaps the NTSB could get the info for you.
> >
> > I am starting (empennage) to build a rv6a. This deliberate non information
> > from Vans is certainly cause for pause and concern to me, and perhaps
> > others. Please keep the list and / or me informed of further developments.
> >
> > Thank you and good luck,
> >
> > Bruce Knoll
> > tripod(at)vvm.com
> > 254-770-1145
> > Temple, TX
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
> I am also a first-timer that also installed my engine (O-320D2J) without
> alignment pins. I did it by myself in less than an hour without any
> instruction other than the builders manual. In fact, I did it twice,
> because I initially forgot to install the infamous oil pressure port fitting.
Ditto for me. I found it useful to tweak the engine alignment by
jacking the hoist ever so slightly up or down for each bolt, to get it
to line up. Did it in about an hour with help the first time, about 1/2
hour by myself the 2nd.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
Fred and others worried about nosegear failures:
I have a solution to your problem! Build an airplane with the little wheel
in back where it belongs. Even if it did fail, (don't think it ever has) it
would not chew the prop.
Helpfully,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 builder donning asbestos apron and ducking behind flame shield
> It is my hope that the more recent failure of a front gear leg at
>CopperState now opens everyone's eyes to a potential problem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
Sorry, Fred, I couldn't resist. I do sympathize with your failure. I hope
you get back in the air soon.
Tailwinds,
Tom Craig-Stearman
> It is my hope that the more recent failure of a front gear leg at
>CopperState now opens everyone's eyes to a potential problem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Atx
> Got back from Copperstate yesterday. While unloading
>the RV4 I noticed the first 4 rivets that hold the lower hinge
>half to the fuselage were popped. ?? The aft ones are fine??
>This is with 197hrs ac time. Of course the question is why?
> Has any one else experienced this?? I do remember that pop
>rivets are used so the canopy will tear away for egress.
>RV4 273sb Stew Bergner CO.
I remember reading that last year someone had a canopy come off inflight.
Van reccomended that we double the number of rivets in the first and last
few inches of the hinge.
Tom Martin
HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The short and the long of it |
You might try a hand brake, like a cher, 140. jd
Robert Acker wrote:
>
> >
> > However we just experienced an unexpected problem my wife is 5'2"
> >and I'm 6 foot. I could reach the rudder peddles easily in Mike's plane
> >but my wife had a problem. Even with pillow under seat and on back side
> >her legs were straight out to the rudder peddles and up against the
> >stick. If I move the peddles back that means I'll be crammed. Has anyone
> >had the same problem? How about forming a U in the control stick on her
> >side???
>
> Joe,
>
> Check the archives for some good info on this problem. I am 6'4, my
> soon-to-be wife 5'4. I have fabricated a second set of pedals, identical to
> the first, which mount on three 3" standoffs (tubing with a bolt through it,
> blind nuts of the forward side of the first set of pedals).
>
> This brings the second set of pedals 3" lower and closer. Don't know how
> the braking will work out yet, if it doesn't we'll have to come up with
> another solution then.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Warp drive props |
In a message dated 10/12/98 2:27:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com writes:
<< Does any have any experience using the Warp Drive prop on a RV6A. >>
I don't think it is recommended to use a composite prop on a direct drive
(i.e.Lycoming) installation. There are guys on the list more knowledgeable
than I, but I don't think it is a good idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint, some advice |
Chet, Sorry you're having trouble getting your messages answered. I
agree there seems to be an escalation of general BS the list which is
one reason I frequently just scan through the Subject lines and delete
any that don't look like I know/care about (e.g. BRS, primer,
airsickness). One thing that would help is if people would modify the
subject line when the subject changes. Another is to take the advice of
the FAQ to heart, and really THINK before you post.
I myself have a personal policy of responding only to technical issues,
and ones that I think know something about. These BS sessions can be
fun but the list has gotten too big to accomodate both them and the
technical issues, IMHO.
So about your question... From the original post I wasn't clear which
area you were talking about but in the baffle plans I remember there was
a specific distance of 1/4" to 3/8" between baffle and cowl. That's
what I used.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
| Subject: | Rivets in tip of Rudder |
To the list:
I am using an Avery hand squeezer. I have put off squeezing the
last tip rivets in the HS and VS because a standard yoke won't fit - I
suspect a no-hole yoke will, though. I am just finishing up my rudder, and
although I believe the tip rib on the bottom (R-404) is close enough to the
edge to be reached by a no-hole yoke (within 5/16" of the edge) for those
last several rivets, I'm not so sure about the last couple rivets on the top
tip rib (R-403), which is set in about 3/4" from the edge.
Has anyone out there actually used the Avery hand squeezer with one
of the no-hole yokes (or for that matter a Chicago-type 214 pneumatic
squeezer- the yokes are interchangeable with the Avery squeezer) to reach in
and get those last rivets on the R-403? Will a 1" no-hole yoke fit? How
about the 2-1/2" no-hole yoke? I'm concerned that the top taper on the 1"
yoke rises too quickly to allow it to fit deep enough into that narrow
space. I'm not even sure the 2-1/2" yoke will go in that far without
hitting up against that taper. (FYI, I'm trying to avoid using "pop-rivets"
or my 2X gun - personal preference.)
I have put off buying a no-hole yoke about as long as I feel I can,
but with a difference of $50 between the two sizes, on top of the freight
and hassle to get them back and forth if I get the wrong one . . . well, you
get the picture.
Thanks
Keith Jensen
-6A emp, 25285
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint |
> On another note: Has anyone become disillusioned with the uneven top edge on
> the rear baffle, and the associated small pcs of baffle strip you must cut to
> seal that area? Why not make that area a straight run, to allow for a tighter
> sealing baffle?
I assume you are talking about the zig that it makes on the left rear
side (RV-6/6A)?
I used a tip from Ken Scott: make a u-shaped, curved filler piece to
fill in the top left rear area of the baffle. Make the front of the "U"
flush with the rest of the baffle. That way the baffle seal material
can go straight across all the way.
Don't know how clear this is, email me if you need clarification.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: rivet substitutes- 6A |
Yes cherry max rivets are a frequently used substitute for solid rivets.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has resorted to their use on occasion!
Expensive though so I use them only when I have to.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
> Does anybody know of a substitute for a solid rivet in a
> structural area? What about a cherry max? I'm referring to
> an occassional substitute of course. I'm having trouble
> with one of the rivets that joins the hs405 to the front
> spar. I'm working inside an acute angle here with no luck.
>
>
> Thanks, Adrian Chick rv6a.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> I'm now doing the final install on my RV-8 tanks. Question; is it
> wise/smart/recommended to put Loctite (blue) on the screws? Is there
> typically any need to remove the tanks during later installation other than
> for leaks or something major?
Since the tanks are fastened using self-locking nut-plates (at least the
RV-6 is, I assume the RV-8 is too?), I don't think there's much point in
using loctite.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pig Roast, engine baffle hint, some advice |
<< Another thing I got out of the trip is that we are losing listers because
the info coming out of the RV-list isn't as informative as it used to be. I
know we all have time shortages that may not allow us to answer
questions for the ones behind us; but, some of us must take the time if
we are to keep this list open to what it's supposed to be used for. I
have found that I can't even get simple questions answered anymore,
when I ask. >>
Jim & list,
Part of the problem at least for me, is that I dont like
getting blasted when I give a piece of advise. Usually any advise I offer is
from first hand experience ( Im flying and have been for a long time ). I try
to give the pro's and the con's. I dont expect everyone to agree with the way
I do things but it is another way to look at it. When I share my input about
how the airplane flys or handles I am talking about how an RV4 handles, not my
related experience in a cessna 150. In other words I dont want some one with
no RV time telling me that my flying procedure could be better if I would just
do such and such.
The second problem is that the list has gotten so big. I find myself every
night running through the list of E-mail and picking out only the subject
material that looks interesting. I used to read it all, but it just takes to
much time now.
Many of the questions that come up have come up over and over and over again.
I realize that many of the people on the list are new and its a new question
to them. If people would use the archives more often it would help alot.
These are just a few of my observations and I think you will find that
these are some of the reasons we have lost so many valuable contributors to
the list and why so many others are just quietly lurking in the shadows.
Ryan Bendure Co. (RV4 131RB)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerofab Trim Wheel |
Dear Joel,
I tried the trim wheel and found that the house or the geometry was too
short --ie., with the trim wheel in the center of its travel, the trim tab
would be full up or down (I don't remember which). Since I had hooked it to
the factory-supplied trim cable from Van's, this was clearly a design arror
so I sent it back to Aero Fab for modification. That was two or three months
agao but I have heard nothing from them since and have been too busy to ask
them for the $250 I spent to be refunded. Caveat Emptor!
-----Original Message-----
From: McLaughlJR(at)aol.com <McLaughlJR(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 2:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aerofab Trim Wheel
>
>Has anyone out there tried the Aerofab trim wheel? I searched the
archives,
>but could not find an actual user. If there are any users, could we have a
>pirep? Thanks.
>
>Joel Mclaughlin
>(trying to decide how to control the trim)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivets in tip of Rudder |
use counter sink pop rivets, get used to the idea, they are inevitable, and
you can't tell once installed and polished the top with scotch brite wheel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint, some advice |
<< I asked about the clearance for the center baffle bulkhead to
inlet duct clearance the other day. As usual, I got no answer to my
question from the RV-list. I got my answer there when I peeked into
a couple of inlets. For those of you behind me, it's about 1/4" to
3/8" to allow for side to side vibrations. >>
>As with life, better questions get better answers. Using part
>numbers helps, as that reduces confusion. After all, what is a
>center baffle bulkhead? Another reason is that much of this info is
>actually in the manual.
OK, I'll buy that; but, in the past I've tried to be very complete with my
questions so that I leave nothing out and still get no answers. If I
make them complete enough for folks to understand, it's too long and
your time too valuable. If I leave a little bit out and make it confusing,
you don't have time to ask what I mean. That's what's missing today.
Last year, when I joined this list, folks were willing to ask for that
clarification. Today, it's an excuse not to help out. Sure, I can
understand why someone wouldn't answer a question to something
they haven't seen in ages; but, if one is fairly familiar with the item, a
quick answer is usually going to be appreciated. That's the one
thing I enjoy with the Grumman Gang discussion group. Maybe the
RV folks could learn something from us Grumman drivers. We seem
to be a bit more close knit than the RVers.
As for that center baffle bulkhead, it's the parts 1 and 11 that make
up the front center that's attached to the two floors. It's called the
bulkhead in the instructions that come with the baffle kit. As for the
inlet ducts, some of the older cowls may not have them. The newer
ones do. When one pushes the top of the cowl down onto the
baffles, the center bulkhead comes close to the inlet ducts. I
needed to know how much to allow for any side to side motion in the
engine to keep from messing up the baffle bulkhead or duct. I have
now finished that portion of the work and am off to something else.
BTW, my note got some responses. I will answer each individually
off line, as I usually do.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Baffles and seals completed, except for RTV.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets in tip of Rudder |
I have some notes and pictures about this on my web page. You definately should
get a no hole yoke, but even that will not solve your problem here. It is usually
possible to get one of the rivets, but the rivet on the opposite side will usually
have to be a pop. Trying to get a solid rivet in there can make a mess.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Jensen, Keith (MC R&D) wrote:
>
> To the list:
> I am using an Avery hand squeezer. I have put off squeezing the
> last tip rivets in the HS and VS because a standard yoke won't fit - I
> suspect a no-hole yoke will, though. I am just finishing up my rudder, and
> although I believe the tip rib on the bottom (R-404) is close enough to the
> edge to be reached by a no-hole yoke (within 5/16" of the edge) for those
> last several rivets, I'm not so sure about the last couple rivets on the top
> tip rib (R-403), which is set in about 3/4" from the edge.
> Has anyone out there actually used the Avery hand squeezer with one
> of the no-hole yokes (or for that matter a Chicago-type 214 pneumatic
> squeezer- the yokes are interchangeable with the Avery squeezer) to reach in
> and get those last rivets on the R-403? Will a 1" no-hole yoke fit? How
> about the 2-1/2" no-hole yoke? I'm concerned that the top taper on the 1"
> yoke rises too quickly to allow it to fit deep enough into that narrow
> space. I'm not even sure the 2-1/2" yoke will go in that far without
> hitting up against that taper. (FYI, I'm trying to avoid using "pop-rivets"
> or my 2X gun - personal preference.)
> I have put off buying a no-hole yoke about as long as I feel I can,
> but with a difference of $50 between the two sizes, on top of the freight
> and hassle to get them back and forth if I get the wrong one . . . well, you
> get the picture.
>
> Thanks
> Keith Jensen
> -6A emp, 25285
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets in tip of Rudder |
Keith,
I just finished up my rudders / elevators and used the 1" Tatco no-hole squeezer
for my end ribs. I believe the dimensions are relatively the same for the
Avery model.
The 1" no hole squeezer works great! I recommend it as the primary squeezer
in all flush head rivet applications where it will reach. There is no flex
in the head, therefore there is no tendency for the rivet shanks to bend over.
Even with my 2" yoke the rivet shop head tends to come out a little bent (oval).
This is primarily on #4 rivets. Needless to say I won't even use my 3"
yoke on #4 rivets, it is barely good enough to use on #3's.
As for using the 1" no-hole on the end ribs of control surfaces, it will be
a little tight for the last rivet on each side, but can be 'persuaded to fit'
for the couple that need it, even on the R-403. I wouldn't trust a 2 1/2" no-hole
because of the potential flex of such a long thin yoke, but that's my opinion,
I've never tried one.
Scott Kuebler
RV-6 (or 6a, haven't decided yet!)
working on wings
>
> Has anyone out there actually used the Avery hand >squeezer with one of
the no-hole yokes (or for that matter a >Chicago-type 214 pneumatic squeezer-
the yokes are >interchangeable with the Avery squeezer) to reach in and get
>those last rivets on the R-403? Will a 1" no-hole yoke fit? How >about the
2-1/2" no-hole yoke?
>
>Thanks
>Keith Jensen
>-6A emp, 25285
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Van's refusal to share info |
Joe,
No, mine broke outside the motor mount tube. the one at Copperstate
was said to have broken inside the tube. But I suspect that it was due
to the same metal fatigue problem that caused mine.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Walker [SMTP:joewalk@hal-pc.org]
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 1998 3:27 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Van's refusal to share info
>
>
> Fred:
>
> Did your gear crack in the same place and in the way as the one in
> Copperstate? There was
> a posting, I presume you read, yesterday describing the type of
> failure.
>
> Joe Walker
> RV-6
> Houston
>
> Stucklen, Frederic IFC wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Bruce & listers,
> >
> > The message I sent out originally had a few more paragraphs that
> I
> > decided were not worth sending out to the whole list. In them, I had
> > basically stated that I have taken the stance that I would not
> consider
> > legal action against Van's as I felt that it was non-productive for
> general
> > aviation. In fact, I have said that to Van's organization from the
> very
> > start, in writing. My concerns have been and continue to be for the
> overall
> > safety of flying, not for financial gain or even the replacement of
> the
> > funds spent on repairs (although it would have certainly helped...
> I'm not
> > that well off..).
> >
> > It is my hope that the more recent failure of a front gear leg
> at
> > CopperState now opens everyone's eyes to a potential problem that
> Mr.
> > VanGrunsven seems to be keeping quite about. This failure, which
> seems to
> > have happened while taxiing, emphasizes even more the need for
> everyone with
> > an older kit date, or with more than 300 Hrs on their planes, to do
> a
> > through inspection on their front gear legs. This "ounce of
> prevention" may
> > prove to save you many $$$$$...
> >
> > As a side note, Based upon my recent experience, I would strongly
> suggest
> > that the gear leg not be sent to Van's for analysis. Independent
> tests
> > should be made first by a reliable testing house. Only after
> independent
> > testing should the gear be sent to Van's.
> >
> > Van seems to be taking the attitude that these are
> "experimental
> > aircraft and do not conform to the normal certification standards"
> and
> > therefore failures should be expected. It is up to us, as the end
> users, to
> > deal with "surface conditions we are now aware of--" Let's keep the
> channels
> > of communications open........
> >
> > Fred Stucklen
> > N925RV RV-6A
> > E. Windsor, Ct
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Bruce Knoll [SMTP:tripod(at)vvm.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 9:09 PM
> > > To: Stucklen, Frederic IFC
> > > Subject: Van's refusal to share info
> > >
> > > Hi Fred,
> > >
> > > I am disturbed that Van will not share the metallurgical
> information with
> > > you, the owner of the affected plane. The first suspicion is "what
> is he
> > > hiding?". At the risk of being a rabel rouser, If it were me, I
> would
> > > consider legal action. It is not Vans piece of metal, but yours
> and you
> > > have a sales invoice to prove it.
> > > I would suspect that you would share the information with the RV
> community
> > > for our benefit. Perhaps the NTSB could get the info for you.
> > >
> > > I am starting (empennage) to build a rv6a. This deliberate non
> information
> > > from Vans is certainly cause for pause and concern to me, and
> perhaps
> > > others. Please keep the list and / or me informed of further
> developments.
> > >
> > > Thank you and good luck,
> > >
> > > Bruce Knoll
> > > tripod(at)vvm.com
> > > 254-770-1145
> > > Temple, TX
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Gates <dgates(at)techie.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Emp ordered: Took the plunge! |
Hi everyone,
Took the plunge at Copperstate on Saturday, wrote the check for a -6 emp kit.
There goes
*all* my spare time-- not to mention the money.....
Hello, Avery? Take my money, please. No, not just some, all of it. Yes, I won't
be needing
it any more......I'm building an airplane....
Don Gates
Lancaster, CA
RV-6(A) Emp on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warp drive props |
>
>Does any have any experience using the Warp Drive prop on a RV6A. I am
>starting my search for a prop and tring to gather any info I can.
>
I live in Clear Lake Iowa. (home of Warp Drive) I talked to Dale about a
Warp Drive prop for my Lawn Dart and he would not sell it to me for a 4
Cylinder Lycoming. Several people who have done it, but he said sooner or
later they all start "growing hair" around the shank of the blade. Dale said
they will not catastrophically fail just slowly deteriorate at the shank.
He sells more props than he can build now so he is not putting much if any
effort into 4 cylinder Lycomings. He had a O-360 test stand on a trailer
and some one hitched up to it and stole it. Thus endeth the Lycoming
program. He tested a really wild looking scimitar prop on a Glasair from
Wisconsin for a while. I guess the performance was awesome. It flexed
allot and worked like a C/S but it grew hair too.
I have a friend who has one on a Miget Mustang I with an O-320 and he loves
it but he doesn't fly it much at all.
FWIW
Tailwinds, -4 N240 "the pink panther" Warnke prop
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> Listers;
> Just so the new ones know, it is possible to mount the engine without any
> 'alignment pins'. I am a first timer, and mounted my 0-360 in about an
> hour. I did have my son to help me, and I followed Vans directions in the
> manual. Everything went together fine.
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Somebody posted on the list a few years ago to take the engine mount
off the airframe and bolt the mount to the engine, then bolt the
mount/engine back to the airframe.
This is what I did, it took about 1 1/2 hours to do the whole thing.
Bolting the mount to the engine was the easy part.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine |
>> Regarding the alignment pins, I'm sorry to hear that
>> some folks have had trouble.
>
> I used these alignment pins on an 0-360 A1A and had no problems
>with them. There must be some difference in individual engines.
>
> Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX
Carroll,
There must indeed be some difference between engines. I used the Avery pins
and the technique worked fine but there was no way the shorter of the pins
would go through the lower right side mount. Like someone else on the list
I got it throught followed by a bolt only to find that further progress
was impeded by some piece of crankcase. I had to back out the bolt and the
50 calibre slug (much bad language deleted) and grind the pin about 30%
shorter than supplied.
I can only think that Lycoming must have fiddled with the casting. If you
have a new Van's engine just check the lengths before you start pounding on
the pins.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
PS: I put my wings on for a final pre-paint fit on the weekend and
everything fitted just nice. Flaps the right length. Rear spars centered in
the clevis mounts at the appropriate incidence angle. Belly skins overlay
wing skin to within 10 thou.
This is a very very good feeling :-)
LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Warp drive props |
We at Belted Air have used the Warp Drive only. Due to the fact we are
running a belt between the engine and the propeller has led to its success.
The People at Warp in my opinion are the most honest in the propeller
business. We have over 240 hours at present with nary a problem. We returned
the plane to service just prior to Copperstate with new metal tipping. Just a
note while we were testing our first prop on the Buick and while cutting off 4
inches one at a time under the guidance of the factory, it did not work as all
expected, we returned the prop and they returned the full amount, something we
have never experienced before, and tried another on the Chevy powered unit. It
is a complete success with great preformance at very reasonable cost. So if
your not running a Lycoming we feel it is a very good prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
In a message dated 10/12/98 8:14:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com writes:
<< Van seems to be taking the attitude that these are "experimental
aircraft and do not conform to the normal certification standards" >>
Van is correct in this, but only to a certain point. If the analysis of the
gear leg shows a problem in the manufacturing process, then I feel it is
"still" up to Van to work with the vendor to adjust the process and produce a
more reliable gear leg. Of course, it is prudent to do the inspections
carefully.
More importantly, if there is a problem only with "certain" gear legs of a
certain vintage, it would be really helpful to those folks to know this.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets in tip of Rudder |
In a message dated 10/12/98 2:58:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com writes:
<< I wouldn't trust a 2 1/2" no-hole because of the potential flex of such a
long thin yoke, but that's my opinion, I've never tried one. >>
For the $$$ they cost, you would think that they could give us one that didn't
flex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pig Roast, engine baffle hint, some advice |
Ryan and listers,
Very good point! I totally agree.
Alot of the info could be handled
off the list.
RV4 273SB Stew Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
Listers,
I just made the first engine run ups on my O-360 A1A. Everything
went pretty well. The lightspeed electronic ignition made it the
smoothest idling engine I've ever set behind. The EIS engine
computer worked well, monitoring CHTs and EGTs (2 of each at a time,
switchable between the front and rear cylinders), oil temp and
pressure, rpm and manifold pressure, and fuel flow (among other
things).
I noted some odd fluctuations in the indicated fuel flow. At idle (920
rpm) with the boost pump off the indicated fuel flow would jump to
around 2.8 gph, then slowly move down to as low as .3 gph, then it
would hop back up to something near 2.8, and slowly work down
again.
My fuel flow transducer is between the fuel selector valve and the
boost pump, and is preceeded by a pretty much straight pipe run of 10-
11" to minimize turbulence into the transducer.
Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
up-and-down flow behavior?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Magnetos |
Listers,
I am looking for a pair of new or serviceable mags for an 0-320 Lycoming
(modified 0-320-E2D). Some of you guys that converted to electronic ignition
may have what I'm looking for.
Contact off list if you have one or both. A hot lead will would be great if
you don't have the mags!
Jerry Isler
RV4 #1060
Donalsonville, Ga
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting aileron |
Charlie Kuss sent me some aileron
construction photos for my web pages.
The following are Charlie's comments; I've just added the URLs. Each
file is about 130KB in size. I've now linked the drawing of someone
else's bucking bar to my Bunny's Guide page
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm>... I guess I'll
eventually link these photos too (but, until then, this message is the
only way you'll find them!).
Frank.
Charlie said:
On the 1st photo
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/4808/ail1.jpg>
(Close up of bucking bar in aileron) you can see the special bucking
bar I made. It's original purpose was to aid bucking rivets on the
inner flap ribs. The point on the bar is used to reach into tight
corners. It's shape by sheer coincidence, was perfect for riveting the
aileron skins to the spar.
The other 3 photos
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/4808/ail2.jpg>,
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/4808/ail3.jpg>,
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/4808/ail4.jpg> show
how I managed the job solo. I find that after some practice, I can
shoot and buck quite well by my self, IF I can reach. I'm 6"4" , have
long arms and could barely manage to shoot the center rivets alone.
For more normal sized people, reaching over the top of the aileron
would work better to get at the center spar to skin rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/12/98 7:25:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com writes:
<< We have over 240 hours at present with nary a problem. We returned
the plane to service just prior to Copperstate >>
How are you guys making out with your conversion? How 'bout an update.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
> the RV4 I noticed the first 4 rivets that hold the lower hinge
> half to the fuselage were popped. ?? The aft ones are fine??
Can you tell if the hinge is stressed when you open the canopy all the way? I
popped about 8 or 10 a while back by letting it go too far past vertical. I
called Van's for advice (I didn't build the plane). As I remember, they said to
just use "hardware store" al. pop rivets, & it's ok to add a few as mentioned in
another post.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Emp ordered: Took the plunge! |
Don,
Welcome to the RV List! You don't know how true your words are. At least,
I didn't when I started. It is good that you found the 'List so early in
the game. There is a whole lot of corporate "been there, done that"
experience here, so don't be afraid to speak up when you get stuck.
Happy riveting,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>Took the plunge at Copperstate on Saturday, wrote the check for a -6 emp
kit. There goes
>*all* my spare time-- not to mention the money.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Van's refusal to share info |
>Joe,
>
> No, mine broke outside the motor mount tube. the one at Copperstate
>was said to have broken inside the tube. But I suspect that it was due
>to the same metal fatigue problem that caused mine.
Being a concerned 6A owner, could you tell me if these failures were with
an O-360 or O-320. I've noticed a difference in how the nose gear flexes
more with the 360 due to the increased weight, not to mention the addition
of a C/S prop.
Dave Hudgins
-6A Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, witholding information |
Fred,
Thanks very much for informing the list of the results of your
investigation. This is info we 6A builders need.
> As to why the front gear leg broke, Van has not released to me
> the full metallurgy report, and does not plan to in the future. ..
That doesn't sound good. Did Van's provide any reason why they
won't tell you the results of the tests performed on the gear leg that
came from your aircraft, which you voluntarily sent to Van's for
testing?
> However, I am a bit more critical of Mr. VanGrunsven's decision
> to not share the metallurgy results with me. While his letter indicated
> that my gear leg "had some surface imperfections" that lead to "metal
> fatigue", I am still at a loss as to what these "imperfections" were, and
> where they came from.
>If it was a leg manufacturing process issue, are there any more out there that
need to
> be found? (Even ONE should be too many if it's "surface conditions we are
> now aware of --" ....). More importantly, if it is a manufacturing issue,
> why not communicate the findings to all builders as a warning so that
> POSSIBLE PROBLEMS might be found prior to another failure. (I guess that's
> what I'm doing...)
Thanks for the warning. Given the Copperstate nose gear breakage
I'm concerned. I'd sure hate to have my 1996-purchased nose gear
drop my engine and prop on the concrete.
Scott McDaniels, do you have any insight into Van's plans with
regard to figuring out what's up with the gear leg failures, and
informing Van's customers what measures we should take to prevent
falures in our aircraft? Is something forthcoming? I'd be happy to
hear that Van's is working the issue, and will tell us all what happened
(results of analysis, history of manufacturing changes, etc), which
gears are most at risk, and what we should do to prevent future nose
gear failures. I'd be disappointed if Van's isn't going to share
results/recommendations with the customers who have invested in a
Van's aircraft.
Tim Lewis
Concerned
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
----------
>From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 canopy
>Date: Mon, Oct 12, 1998, 1:14 PM
>
>
>Atx
>> Got back from Copperstate yesterday. While unloading
>>the RV4 I noticed the first 4 rivets that hold the lower hinge
>>half to the fuselage were popped. ?? The aft ones are fine??
>>This is with 197hrs ac time. Of course the question is why?
>> Has any one else experienced this?? I do remember that pop
>>rivets are used so the canopy will tear away for egress.
>>RV4 273sb Stew Bergner CO.
A friend of mine had a partial separation of an RV-4 canopy while doing a
slow roll--the right edge popped up about 1" but the latch held and he was
able to return to the airport. The separation appeared to start from the
front edge like you describe. He is a very competent ex-military (F104)
and airline type who was confident he was not overstressing or overspeeding
the airplane.
He felt it might have been related to a piece of foam weatherstrip under the
hinge which put a constant load on it while closed.
This happened several months before the in-flight canopy loss in Arkansas. I
would definitely add the extra rivets.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
>
>Listers,
>
>I just made the first engine run ups on my O-360 A1A. Everything
>went pretty well. The lightspeed electronic ignition made it the
>smoothest idling engine I've ever set behind. The EIS engine
>computer worked well, monitoring CHTs and EGTs (2 of each at a time,
>switchable between the front and rear cylinders), oil temp and
>pressure, rpm and manifold pressure, and fuel flow (among other
>things).
>
>I noted some odd fluctuations in the indicated fuel flow. At idle (920
>rpm) with the boost pump off the indicated fuel flow would jump to
>around 2.8 gph, then slowly move down to as low as .3 gph, then it
>would hop back up to something near 2.8, and slowly work down
>again.
>
>My fuel flow transducer is between the fuel selector valve and the
>boost pump, and is preceeded by a pretty much straight pipe run of 10-
>11" to minimize turbulence into the transducer.
>
>Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
>up-and-down flow behavior?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Lewis
>
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
That would be my guess. If the float was 'sticking' in the up
position until the fuel level dropped enough to unstick it you'd
likely get that kind of fuel usage. I'd definately check into it
since you'd be in a world of hurt should the float stay stuck closed.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
Listers,
I just made the first engine run ups on my O-360 A1A. Everything
went pretty well. The lightspeed electronic ignition made it the
smoothest idling engine I've ever set behind. The EIS engine
computer worked well, monitoring CHTs and EGTs (2 of each at a time,
switchable between the front and rear cylinders), oil temp and
pressure, rpm and manifold pressure, and fuel flow (among other
things).
I noted some odd fluctuations in the indicated fuel flow. At idle (920
rpm) with the boost pump off the indicated fuel flow would jump to
around 2.8 gph, then slowly move down to as low as .3 gph, then it
would hop back up to something near 2.8, and slowly work down
again.
My fuel flow transducer is between the fuel selector valve and the
boost pump, and is preceeded by a pretty much straight pipe run of 10-
11" to minimize turbulence into the transducer.
Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
up-and-down flow behavior?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
I'm having a hard time getting the proper trailing edge formed on my RV-8
rudder. I bend it until the leading edge is touching while in the wooden
brake, but at rest, there is > 7" between the sides. The archives say I can
fix this with the hand-seamer - is this still the prefered method? With or
without the dowel in the TE? Any other ideas?
Thanks,
-Larry
RV-8 Rudder.
Advance, NC (8A7)
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure |
I agree; I want to know if my $45,000 investment is in danger of being
trashed by a relatively easy to replace unit. Van owes us this
information!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Emp ordered: Took the plunge! |
Good for you , Don (snicker) welcome to our little spending world!
I'm broke now,(thanks Van)
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit Almost Here!!!
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>Took the plunge at Copperstate on Saturday, wrote the check for a -6 emp
kit. There goes
>*all* my spare time-- not to mention the money.....
>
>Hello, Avery? Take my money, please. No, not just some, all of it. Yes,
I won't be needing
>it any more......I'm building an airplane....
>
>Don Gates
>Lancaster, CA
>RV-6(A) Emp on order
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
Tim and List,
I too have the EIS with the fuel management option. I've put 150 hours on my
plane (Carrera U/L with Rotax 503) since the end of May.
When I sent my EIS back to Grand Rapids Tech for an up-grade for adding the
Fuel flow option (last year), Greg (the owner of EIS) said there was a
Cessna pilot that installed the system, and the fuel flow readout bounced
around alot, so Greg took it back and dampened it electronically (to
stabilize it). All the EIS units after that has that damping built into the
unit.
Mine works really good, and I can see it change almost instantly when I
change the throttle setting, then it stabilizes out in about 5 seconds.
On one of my big cross country trips this last summer, the fuel flow started
changing from 1 gpm to 10 gpm. It would slowly go up, then back down (the
electronic damping kept it moving slowly). Turns out, some of my baggage had
caught on the transducer, and rotated it down 90 degrees (it's supposed to
be level, with the top side up). I straightened it back out, and the flow
rate stabilized again. I'm assuming you did mount it right, so maybe
vibration is affecting it. My transducer is suspended by the fuel lines to
reduce vibration on it.
I doubt the float in the carb is causing the fluctuations, but I suppose
it's possible
Good luck with the EIS. I sure love mine!
Oh yeah, be sure to add the fuel pressure sender. It's nice to be able to
monitor the fuel pressure (with alarm)...
Randy Simpson
Carrera Ultralight flyer
Future RV flyer
Brownsville, OR
http://www.airtimemfg.com
>I noted some odd fluctuations in the indicated fuel flow. At idle (920
>rpm) with the boost pump off the indicated fuel flow would jump to
>around 2.8 gph, then slowly move down to as low as .3 gph, then it
>would hop back up to something near 2.8, and slowly work down
>again.
>
>My fuel flow transducer is between the fuel selector valve and the
>boost pump, and is preceeded by a pretty much straight pipe run of 10-
>11" to minimize turbulence into the transducer.
>
>Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
>up-and-down flow behavior?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Lewis
>
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I just made the first engine run ups on my O-360 A1A. Everything
> went pretty well. The lightspeed electronic ignition made it the
> smoothest idling engine I've ever set behind. The EIS engine
> computer worked well, monitoring CHTs and EGTs (2 of each at a time,
> switchable between the front and rear cylinders), oil temp and
> pressure, rpm and manifold pressure, and fuel flow (among other
> things).
>
> I noted some odd fluctuations in the indicated fuel flow. At idle (920
> rpm) with the boost pump off the indicated fuel flow would jump to
> around 2.8 gph, then slowly move down to as low as .3 gph, then it
> would hop back up to something near 2.8, and slowly work down
> again.
>
> My fuel flow transducer is between the fuel selector valve and the
> boost pump, and is preceeded by a pretty much straight pipe run of 10-
> 11" to minimize turbulence into the transducer.
>
> Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
> up-and-down flow behavior?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
Tim
The instructions that came with the Rocky Mountian engine monitor
said to mount the Flo Scan transducer downstream of the boost pump
and gascolator.
Mine is mounted just past the gascolator and is rock steady.
You might want to wait and see what it does while in flight with higher
fuel flow before you change anything.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine baffle hint |
>>A rule of thumb (from Tony's wonderful books) is to be able to slide
your finger between the baffling and the cowl. I've seen this posted
before, so it may be in the archives, or at least it will be now! <<
Mine had that clearance except where the inlet duct goes past the
center bulkhead at the front behind the flywheel. I just wanted to be
sure about the clearance on that little section. I got that info at the
fly-in at Chet's.
Thanks,
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
You really gotta lay into it Larry. Watch George do it in the video, he
moves the whole bench. Make sure you flip it around, and move it back and
forth too. It will take several tries, you won't get it all in one shot. If
you're still not happy, try taking out the dowel and carefully tweaking it.
I wouldn't mess with the hand seamers here.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowen.com>
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder TE?!
>
>I'm having a hard time getting the proper trailing edge formed on my RV-8
>rudder. I bend it until the leading edge is touching while in the wooden
>brake, but at rest, there is > 7" between the sides. The archives say I
can
>fix this with the hand-seamer - is this still the prefered method? With or
>without the dowel in the TE? Any other ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Larry
>RV-8 Rudder.
>Advance, NC (8A7)
>Email: larry(at)bowen.com
>Web: http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
In a message dated 10/12/98 12:37:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcraigst(at)ionet.net writes:
<< have a solution to your problem! Build an airplane with the little wheel
in back where it belongs. Even if it did fail, (don't think it ever has) it
>>
Oh Yeah, here it comes! I knew it wouldn't be long before the " wheel where
it belongs" types would be heard from... under the current circumstances,
these comments are neither funny, nor productive/helpful to the problem, and
should not be aired on this forum.
Walt Hastings RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
>
>I'm having a hard time getting the proper trailing edge formed on my RV-8
>rudder. I bend it until the leading edge is touching while in the wooden
>brake, but at rest, there is > 7" between the sides. The archives say I can
>fix this with the hand-seamer - is this still the prefered method? With or
>without the dowel in the TE? Any other ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>
Larry
I recall having the same problem on mine and I got a little more agressive
using my homemade wooden brake and put some heavier pressure on it to get
it to bend the trailing edge enough. I used a metal dowel in the TE during
the whole process. I think it also helps to put a handle in the center of
the wooden brake as well as one on each end to give a more consistent bend
along the trailing edge and also reduce oil-canning. (well, that's what it
said in the archives)
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a fusilage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
RV Listers,
I try my best to stay out of this and let the List police itself, but there
comes a time... I've gotten a few complaints in recent days about the
signal-to-noise ratio on the RV-List lately and I'd probably have to
agree.
People, please remember that there are now *OVER* 1000 people on the RV-List.
When you post a message to the List, everyone of these members gets a copy
and has to deal with it - be that to delete it or read it or whatever.
I really love the family atmosphere we have on the RV-List and the free
discussion is a wonderful resource. But the number of messages per day is
starting to choke some people and I can't really blame them.
I've been asked to impliment some sort of splitting up of the List or some
other method of controlling the amount of traffic. I *really* _don't_ want
to do this because I feel that it will be to the detriment of the List as
a whole.
I have some other ideas about forcing certain keywords such as "Primer",
"Wings", "Tail", etc. to be added to the Subject line of incoming posts so
that some filtering can be done by members. Again, this sounds great, but
I'm sure will cause more problems and add some level of confusion for
new members.
As the RV-List Administrator, an RV Builder, and an RV-List member for
nearly 10 years, I am asking that *everyone* do their part to curb the
excess chatter and discussions about topics that could easially found
with the Archive Search Engine. Just this past weekend I had a question
regarding something I was building and sat down to write a quick message
to the List about it. Then I stopped and thought, "Hum, I wonder if the
answer to this is in the Archives..." In 2 minutes, I had found over
10 messages in the archive regarding the very question I had. By the way,
most of that 2 minutes was waiting for my browser to start up - the actual
search took exactly 7 *seconds*.
Anyway, I'll get off the soapbox now. Let's keep the List content concentrated
and to the point. Edit out all that quoted text that really doesn't have
anything to do with your response. Use the Archive Search Engine. The
RV-List is the World's Best Resource for RV-Related information - let's
keep it that way.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BStobbe <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
| Subject: | sent to the archives |
I wouldn't argue that the archives are a great resource of information.
The only potential problem is that the information may occasionally be
obsolete, or someone currently on the list may have a better approach than
what had been previously suggested, or done in the past to resolve a
particular issue.
That's why, IMHO, I don't think it's such a terrible offense to post
questions that may have been previously discussed - as long as the
discussion wasn't just last week!
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
working on fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I read the note from our provider this morning; so, I'm going to keep
this as short as possible. I got several answers to my note. Here are
some of them and my responses.
1. Guys hate giving advice on the list and getting blasted for it.
I don't blame them. This is no place for a flame. Let the person
asking the question figure out what's best for him/her. I've found
that I can sometimes get a better idea by combining ideas. None of
us know it all, even though some of us think we do. Answer off line,
if need be. Just answer!
2. There is so much BS on the list that much of it is bypassed by the
readers.
I do the same. Keeping the BS off line would help a bunch. We do
need to be sure that we don't lose reports like those given by Fred
concerning the broken gear legs.
3. Subjects change and no change in the title.
I've found this a lot and don't use the archives because of that and
other reasons. Valuable info could be lost because of it, too.
4. People get tired of answering the same questions over and over.
OK; but, Van's keeps selling kits. We have new people who may not
be up on the archives. Remember, we had those questions when
we were in their stages. Let's answer those questions off line and tell
them about the archives.
5. Use the archives.
Contrary to some, I've not been able to get much from the archives. I
tried them several times and got very little because of the nature of
the question and how my machine handles them. My responses end
up as garbage after a few hundred lines of response. Maybe others
run into the same problems. I've not tried the new search engine,
yet.
6. You didn't explain it well enough for us to understand. Put in more
detail.
That's my favorite. In the past I've been flamed for that, too. When I
put in enough, it's too long for your time. If I leave a little out, it's not
detailed enough or is confusing. Gee, folks, I didn't know my KY
drawl carried into the list. If the ones behind me can understand my
answers when I find them on my own and tell the rest, why is it so
hard to understand the question? Why not ask off line what we
mean, rather than doing nothing? I can tell you I'd do anything to get
the explanation clear enough to get that answer. I don't have RVs
all around me to look at. Many of us are in the same boat. You ask
for a clarification, we can give it.
That's about it. Per the note I got this morning, there are over 1000
people on this. With about 25, or so, doing all of the talking, I'm
wondering where the rest are. I'm sure you lurkers have some ideas
and experiences of your own. We need your help just as much as
we do the regulars. Answer off line if you're afraid of being
embarrassed. All of us need help! You may be just the one who
can do it!
'Nough said. Sorry for taking up the space. For the sake of others
and me, I felt it needed saying.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Hanging engine parts.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSN mail" <solanas(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of the
large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
good, especially given all the engine vibration.
Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
connector. Should I have?
Rick Solana, RV-6a N804RS
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David S. Hamilton" <hamlton(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry,
I bent the trailing edges first with the dowel and then without it. I
couldn't get the bend I wanted using the dowel so I called Van's. John
Morgan assured me it would be okay without the dowel and sure enough he was
right. It made me nervous but I worked slowly and am very pleased with the
final bends on all control surfaces.
Fraternally,
Dave Hamilton
80001 (N880RV)
just tested fuel tanks, no leaks:)
>I'm having a hard time getting the proper trailing edge formed on my RV-8
>rudder. I bend it until the leading edge is touching while in the wooden
>brake, but at rest, there is > 7" between the sides. The archives say I can
>fix this with the hand-seamer - is this still the prefered method? With or
>without the dowel in the TE? Any other ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
Larry,
I started building my wooden brake the same way George says to do it in the
video, but I added one thing....
Instead of letting the two faces close completely, I left a 1/8" gap between
the two boards. This way if the trailing edge is all the way in (touching the
hinges), the edge can't overbend, but the front face of the break can close
completely.
This made forming the leading edge very easy, and I didn't have to worry about
flattening the TE. I still used an 1/8" wooden dowel in the bend (I never
trust my ideas that much!)
Scott Kuebler
RV-6 (or -6A)
wings
>>> "Larry Bowen" 10/12/98 09:22PM >>>
I'm having a hard time getting the proper trailing edge formed on my RV-8 rudder.
I bend it until the leading edge is touching while in the wooden brake, but
at rest, there is > 7" between the sides. The archives say I can fix this with
the hand-seamer - is this still the prefered method? With or without the
dowel in the TE? Any other ideas?
Thanks,
-Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bart Dalton" <Planenutts(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Woodward Prop Governor |
EMI in Tulsa ,OK is a good shop to have good quality work done for
experimental accessories. Tell Justin that it is for experimentals. This is
where I have all my mags,Govs and other accessories worked on.
----------
> From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Woodward Prop Governor
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 3:20 PM
>
>
> Listers;
>
> I recently obtained a Woodward Prop Governor(used) and my question is
> since I would like to have this unit checked or overhauled before I
> install it on my 0-360, would this go to a prop shop? Is there an
> overhaul requirement on these? Does anyone specialize in these? This
> will be my first engine installation, so I have a lot of learning to do!
> This is type 210080 U, Part # 21350-3.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
Rick,
Check out the archives on this subject. Seems to me I remember Bob
Nickols had posted something on his web page concerning these connectors
and how to deal with them...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MSN mail [SMTP:solanas(at)email.msn.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 6:58 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire
>
>
> Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends
> of the
> large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is
> not that
> good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>
> Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include
> any
> insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
> connector. Should I have?
>
> Rick Solana, RV-6a N804RS
> Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
Listers,
I've received a lot of questions on this subject.
>> As to why the front gear leg broke, Van has not released to me
>> the full metallurgy report, and does not plan to in the future. ..
>That doesn't sound good. Did Van's provide any reason why they
>won't tell you the results of the tests performed on the gear leg that
>came from your aircraft, which you voluntarily sent to Van's for
>testing?
> Tim Lewis [timrv6a(at)earthlink.net]
>Fred, have you asked for "YOUR" broken nose leg to be returned?
>I think the one at Copperstate is the fifth one to fail in normal
>operations.
>Brian Holman [bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au]
Yes, I voluntarily sent the leg to Van's, but he did replace it free
(so far), as well
as rework the engine mount for the new gear leg, so in essence, the
old leg is his.....
From conversations with Tom Green concerning Van's reasoning for not
releasing the data, I get the impression that Van feels that
experimental
aircraft are just that, experimental, and the end user should be more
responsible
for his creation than the kit builder. And in today's business
environment, it
would not be prudent for him to be releasing information that could hurt
him.
And we really don't want him to go under because of legal issues from a
problem that we are
all now well aware of. I feel that it IS our responsibility to
discipline ourselves in
identifying and controlling mechanical issues with our planes. Part of
that
responsibility is to REACT to the know problems. How many of you flying
have actually tested your gear legs? I've only had three (3) responses
(all negative)
to my post in August requesting test data..... I know that this incident
has
taught me that there is a potential problem area that needs to be
periodically
inspected, especially after a nose wheel shimmy. If nothing else, this
incident
has informed a 1000 others of a potential area of concern. So, in
effect, hasn't
the job of informing the owners been performed without the legal
liability? Is there
a better way? Who do you want in control of your flying? Van's, the FAA,
or yourselves?
>Being a concerned 6A owner, could you tell me if these failures were
with
>an O-360 or O-320. I've noticed a difference in how the nose gear
flexes
>more with the 360 due to the increased weight, not to mention the
addition
>of a C/S prop.
>Dave Hudgins
>-6A Nashville
N925RV has an O-320-D1A engine. I HAVE NOT re-installed the
wood/glass stiffener on the new gear leg and already have noticed
more instability on takeoff's and landings when the nose gear is
on the ground, so, IMHO, the flexing issue on a heavier O-360 engine
would be even more pronounced. I plan on re-installing the
stiffener for this reason... It will make inspection more difficult, but
not
impossible....
<< Van seems to be taking the attitude that these are "experimental
aircraft and do not conform to the normal certification standards" >>
>Van is correct in this, but only to a certain point. If the analysis
of the
>gear leg shows a problem in the manufacturing process, then I feel it
is
>"still" up to Van to work with the vendor to adjust the process and
produce a
>more reliable gear leg. Of course, it is prudent to do the inspections
>carefully.
>More importantly, if there is a problem only with "certain" gear legs
of a
>certain vintage, it would be really helpful to those folks to know
this.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State
I think Van is reacting to this situation, abet quietly. It is my
understanding
that he is now doing more inspections on the new gear legs and the
manufacturing
process has been changed. All-in-all, quality should get better. It's
the older
units in the field that I would be concerned about....
Jim, this is the area that WE can make a difference. I too feel that
it should
be Van's responsibility to warn current owners of older kits that there
may be
a process problem on front gear legs, even if that problem does not
effect ALL
of the fleet. To the end user, KNOWLEDGE is the tool to preventative
maintenance. In my opinion, Van does not see this whole issue as a
problem
yet. (But in our eyes, one failure is a problem.) We as a group can
better control
the issue if we were to generate data on how many gear legs do have
problems.
This, of course, means those flying have to have their gear legs tested.
If nothing
else, this disciplined approach will prevent more failures.....
Hope this helps guys & gals.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
Rick;
I feel sure that there is a special tool for this crimping of battery line
terminals. Since there are left handed monkey wrenches and special pieces
of flight line. But like so many a/c related things, they are of very high
value, and it was not economical for me to buy one for such limited use.
I remembered that the telephone co. used something like that when they
repaired my barb wire fences after they had cut them. I located the right
guy. He was a/c interested. Came to see my a/c under construction, brought
the tool, we fixed the crimp. Incidentally, he has gone on to get his
private license because of the interest generated by the visit.
I had tried to do it in a vice, and like you, I wasn't satisfied with the
crimp that resulted.
No, I didn't include insul. inside the crimp. Don't know if that was the
correct thing to do or not. But didn't have any problems with it in two
years with 175 hours.
You may want to give the telep. line maint. guy a call and try to save some
money.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
>insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>connector. Should I have?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
Rick,
There is a special crimping tool, but it is very expensive. You may be able
to take your cables to an electrical supply house and have them crimped
there. I made a set of dies out of 1" thick aluminum and used a large vice
to crimp my #2 connections. Another method to strengthen up your current
crimps is to "nail" a few small pieces of copper ground wire into the front
end of the connection. This will act like a wedge. After you have a good
mechanical connection, it is a good idea to solder the terminal for
additional security. A standard Radio Shack soldering iron has no chance of
heating up a #2 terminal, so I used a torch. Be sure to put a heat sink on
the wire, right behind the terminal, as you only want the solder within the
terminal area and not to wick into the wire past the terminal. This would
make the cable brittle.
You do not want insulation in the crimp. It is imperative to get a good
electrical connection here.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
and hope I may
>be able to contribute in some way.
>
>Eustace Bowhay C-FHAY RV6 (amphib. floats)
>Blind Bay British Columbia
>
>
>Eustace,
List or no list we think of you often, your flying abilities are well
rembered by us back when we started building. I still recall 2 things you
told us,
" These things are way stronger than a Cessna "
" Just be carefull building speed in a dive, you could pull the wings off ! "
We have many fun hours now in the North BC on C-FXXG. Your advice has not
fell on deaf ears. Am looking foreward to reading your notes.
Thanks, Ed & Shirley Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wi |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of the
>large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
>good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>
>Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
>insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>connector.
I just did this and had good luck soldering the connectors on. I used a
propane torch on the back of the connector and lots of solder. Those
connectors are not designed to include any insulation in the crimp.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>
>3. Subjects change and no change in the title.
>
>I've found this a lot and don't use the archives because of that and
>other reasons. Valuable info could be lost because of it, too.
>
>
>5. Use the archives.
>
>Contrary to some, I've not been able to get much from the archives. I
>tried them several times and got very little because of the nature of
>the question and how my machine handles them. My responses end
>up as garbage after a few hundred lines of response. Maybe others
>run into the same problems. I've not tried the new search engine,
>yet.
>
I would greatly encourage anyone who has not tried the new search engine
to do so. It is much, much better than the old one. I have found it to
work flawlessly. Also I don't believe the subject line has any special
function on the search engine. The engine searchs the entire text.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>
>Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of the
>large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
>good, especially given all the engine vibration.
**Idea that was submitted to some publication I get was to drive
copper wire into the #2 or #4 after the connector put on until it is tight.
Then solder the connect in the same method as sweating copper plumbing
joint. I have used this method and it seem to be very solid and strong.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 wing fairings
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)NOSPAMmitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
I went to the local Marine supply house and purchased their battery
cable crimping tool; I think it was a whopping $8 or something like
that.
This tool can crimp 0, 1, 2, 4, etc. cable onto the standard lugs.
The instructions suggest hitting the end with a hammer, but I just
placed the assembly in my vise and squeezed. The tool has an automatic
limiting stop to prevent overcrimping. Several of the local builders
have been using this tool.
Michael Pilla
Scott Gesele wrote:
>
>
> Rick,
>
> There is a special crimping tool, but it is very expensive. You may be able
> to take your cables to an electrical supply house and have them crimped
> there. I made a set of dies out of 1" thick aluminum and used a large vice
> to crimp my #2 connections. Another method to strengthen up your current
> crimps is to "nail" a few small pieces of copper ground wire into the front
> end of the connection. This will act like a wedge. After you have a good
> mechanical connection, it is a good idea to solder the terminal for
> additional security. A standard Radio Shack soldering iron has no chance of
> heating up a #2 terminal, so I used a torch. Be sure to put a heat sink on
> the wire, right behind the terminal, as you only want the solder within the
> terminal area and not to wick into the wire past the terminal. This would
> make the cable brittle.
>
> You do not want insulation in the crimp. It is imperative to get a good
> electrical connection here.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in? |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
In installing my AV-8 engine monitor, I have a choice of using the
spark-plug type sensor for my CHT readouts, or the screw-in type. I have
heard the screw-in types are more accurate so will use those. The probe
is a 3/8-24 thread, is this the correct one? Do these go into the small
threaded hole above each cylinder, or below, or does it matter? Besides
the 4 CHTs, I also have Manifold pressure to go into one of these
openings.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
ake
fluid spilling.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
I've checked the archives, because I seem to remember a discussion on CO
monitors awhile back, but got no hits. So, does anyone know what is available
and where?
Thanks,
Joel Harding RV-8 CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com |
>>>
>
>
>RV-List: posted by Rijkers, Jan <robynne@harare,iafrica.com>
>
>posted by: "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)"
>>>>
>>>> To the list:
>>>I had to have a look at my VS, and it has all solid rivets in it- a non
event .
>>>Contrary to Avery's catalog the yokes are not hardened and could be
reshaped
>>>easily. I use the pneumatic squeezer for wich I made four addittional
yokes.
>>>Probably the best investment I made in tooling.
>>>
>>>
>>>Good luck
>>>JAN RIJKERS-(zimbabwe)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
<< Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of
the
large (#2 or #4 gauge) starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
good, especially given all the engine vibration. Is there a special crimping
technique or tool?>>
Rick-
For the RV (battery close to engine), 4 AWG wire is completely adequate to
carry the starting current.
The best termination technique I know of involves the use of a special
crimping tool (similar in design to a bolt cutter or nicopress tool) that is
about $240 (McMaster-Carr p/n 7333K15). IMO, every chapter should have one of
these (along with filter can cutter, spark plug sand blaster, nicopress tool,
Roto-flare and similar specialty tools). It has a compound head and a die
nest (adjustable for AWG) that is designed to cold flow the terminal and the
wire strands together for a gas tight (or nearly so) joint. Some boating
supplies dealers have these and if you look around your airport maybe someone
will lend you one. The large nicopress tool will also work in a pinch
(someone building a wire braced design might have one of these).
Some choose to solder these terminals in place. It is certainly not the
preferred technique (reduces joint flexibility and stresses concentrate at the
edge of the joint area), but if you have clean surfaces and a big soldering
iron it can be done. Just use a mildly active rosin flux and clean off the
residues following reflow using isopropyl alcohol or similar mild solvent.
<< Also, I didn't include any
insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
connector. Should I have? >>
This is personal preference but installing shrink sleeving is considered to be
good practice. In some cases it can be installed after the termination is
completed if the normally available 2:1 shrinkage material can be slipped over
the end. There are some types of 3:1 shrinkage products available.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Plumbing Shopping List |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am finding that one of the most difficult and time consuming things is
figuring out what size and type of plumbing to order for the engine. Does
anyone have a shopping list already made up for an 0360-Constant Speed
setup? I seem to recall that Tim Lewis had a nice one on the list a while
back.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>
>Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of the
>large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
>good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>
>Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
>insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>connector. Should I have?
Fat wires get along well without insulation-grip on installed
terminals. It's little guys like 20 and 22AWG that shed their
terminals readily under vibration if not afforded the extra
support.
Crimping tool design and calibration is pretty exacting science.
I won't say that the low cost, screw-jack tools out there will
not produce an adequate installation, without evaluating each
one with specific wire and terminals, I cannot judge. However,
over the past 35 years, the history on bizillions of solder
joints has been exemplary. It's not hard to do and the results
are not in doubt.
I've posted an article I did for Kit Aircraft Builder a couple
of years ago. You can download it from:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf>
For those of you who have tried to download this one in it's former
life (1.4 Meg!!!) I've learned a few things about Acrobat Distiller
and the article is now down to 290K Bytes . . . although Distiller
is putting little streaks in my photos . . . I'll get it right
eventually. In the mean time, the piece is much easier to acquire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
You can use the clamp from a tube flaring tool. Lay the connector in the
half round that fits. Turn the other bar around and use it to press a small
ball bearing in to the connector. Make a neat, good swage every time.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stucklen, Frederic IFC <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire
>
>Rick,
>
> Check out the archives on this subject. Seems to me I remember Bob
>Nickols had posted something on his web page concerning these connectors
>and how to deal with them...
>Fred Stucklen
>N925RV RV-6A
>E. Windsor, Ct
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: MSN mail [SMTP:solanas(at)email.msn.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 6:58 AM
>> To: RV list
>> Subject: RV-List: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire
>>
>>
>> Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends
>> of the
>> large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is
>> not that
>> good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>>
>> Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include
>> any
>> insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>> connector. Should I have?
>>
>> Rick Solana, RV-6a N804RS
>> Richmond, VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Cross" <sfo621(at)impop.bellatlantic.net> |
I started RV-6A empennage construction nearly four years ago,
after getting the "$30,000 free ride" in North Plains. Since that
time I have relocated to the East Coast, lost my "copilot"
(side-by-side advocate) and stored my project until I could locate a
suitable work space. I now feel that tandem seating is more
appropriate for me. I would like to take advantage of the latest
thinking from builders and pilots that have experience with tandem
RVs. Any opinions on the relative merits of the RV-4 and RV-8 would
be appreciated. I assume this subject has been discussed previously,
but I have not been able to locate anything specific in the archives.
Also, I have not seen many examples of the RV-4, and I have never
seen an RV-8 (although I almost had a chance last Sunday at the
Eastcoast Flyin). I live in Alexandria VA and I would like to visit
anyone within a reasonable distance that is willing to discuss this
subject with me. Flames welcome.
Please respond off list.
David Cross
sfo621(at)bellatlantic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
<< And we really don't want him to go under because of legal issues from a
problem that we are
all now well aware of. I feel that it IS our responsibility to
discipline ourselves in
identifying and controlling mechanical issues with our planes. Part of
that
responsibility is to REACT to the know problems.>>
What about those that are not on the RV-List. Wouldn't a recap in the RV-ator
by Van's be a thoughtful and prudent act. Is this info only for the net
literati?
<< How many of you flying
have actually tested your gear legs? I've only had three (3) responses
(all negative)
to my post in August requesting test data..... I know that this incident
has
taught me that there is a potential problem area that needs to be
periodically
inspected, especially after a nose wheel shimmy. If nothing else, this
incident
has informed a 1000 others of a potential area of concern. So, in
effect, hasn't
the job of informing the owners been performed without the legal
liability?>>
The list info is not about avoiding legal liability IMO. Neither should it be
used as an informal leak of info from the factory (what are we, Ken Starr's
office?). If there are issues that become apparent as the RV Fleet ages, I
think that the factory has an obligation to point them out in their official
publications (RV-ator, Service Bulletins, Service Letters) with the facts and
the current factory position on each. What we do with the info is our
responsibility as the manufacturer.
The RV-List represents only a small portion of those building the RV series.
Hopefully those without net access will have friends that can pass along this
underground information. Their livelihood my depend on this informal network
if the factory is unwilling to identify potential areas of concern as the RV
fleet ages. This situation is unfortunate, but I guess I can appreciate some
of the concerns Van's has with regard to our litigious society. I believe
that some official avenue of notification should be pursued.
<< Is there
a better way? >>
We are open to suggestion. The Kitfox list has gentleman member who does a
periodic posting of what is referred to as "Kitfoxsafe" (subject line). This
compilation identifies the currently known problem areas on different
models/options collected from various sources (magazine articles, anecdotal
info, postings) and recommended course(s) of action. No legalities, just what
is currently known. Will someone take up the "RVsafe" challenge?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Magnetos |
I will have a Slick right mag for an O-320 E2D when my electronic ignition
comes. If you are interested, send me an E-mail.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
<< So, in
effect, hasn't
the job of informing the owners been performed without the legal
liability? Is there
a better way? Who do you want in control of your flying? Van's, the FAA,
or yourselves? >>
I agree that the best way for us "experimenters" is to talk to one another and
with Van's guys about the problems. I know that they are doing everything that
they possibly can to identify if there is a common thread here amont the gear
failures. Were they from one batch from the vendor, did they have a history of
shimmy, were the failure modes the same, etc., etc.......? It is possible that
the list might even be a good tool to answer some of these ?'s. If you know of
a nose gear failure, can you provide as many details to the list as possible
regarding the configuration and the circumstances regarding the incident.
________________________________________________________________________________
failure that had apparently been growing for some time and that it failed just
below the socket, that the Copperstate failure was actually up in the socket a
1/4 to 1/2 inch, and that a third failure from a earlier scenario is recorded
on video and it a hard nose first touchdown with the gear bending
approximately 30 degrees to the rear before snapping off at the socket. It
does not sound like there is a common thread here, but if you guys that are
familiar with these incidents would submit as many facts as you could
regarding the shipping date of the gear from Van's and other info, maybe we
might even see a thread to share with Van to try to solve the problem. After
all this is the age of information and we are on the "information highway"
Bernie Kerr , RV6A fuselage, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding of Brakes |
Von,
While filling the system, pump enough fluid into the first brake to purge
the air out of the lines and fill the reservoir about 1/4 of the way. Fill
the second side the same as the first, then top off the reservoir. You do
not need to pump the brakes at all during this process. Make sure that you
do not inject any air into the system while filling. The brakes should be
firm when you are done. Any spongyness is an indication that air is in the
system and it will need to be bled again.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV -Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Bleeding of Brakes |
Von,
I found that pumping the fluid in at the brake caliper until the it
comes out of the reservoir. The firewall mount reservoir I used had a
pipe tread fitting on it which I just plumbed into an overflow can. I
did find that I needed a good flow rate to get all the bubbles out of
the top of the tubing loops in my floor mounted rudder pedal system.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: n41va(at)juno.com [SMTP:n41va(at)juno.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 10:34 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bleeding of Brakes
>
>
> I am getting ready to fill my brake system with fluid. In using a pump
> can to fill the system from the bottom-up(thru the nipple), do I need
> to
> keep going until brake fluid comes out the reservoir on the firewall?
> Do
> the brakes have to be pumped at all during this process? I thought
> about
> slipping a stick down into the reservoir, pump one side until there is
> a
> fluid level on the stick, then pump the other side till there is a
> higher
> fluid level. Would this work? Seems like it would save the mess on
> brake
> fluid spilling.
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Titanium Landing Gear |
I am interested in whether there has been anyone who has seriously checked
into the possibility of titanium gear. I understand titanium is 56% of the
weight of steel and stronger.
I know the Sonex is using titanium and so are the Harmon Rockets. I talked
to Sonex and they use a constant diameter bar stock from Harvey Titanium in
Santa Monica. Harmon uses a tapered leg and I think someone said he had to
respec his because of a failure.
Anyway, if there is someone with some knowledge about this I would
appreciate it.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in? |
>In installing my AV-8 engine monitor, I have a choice of using the
>spark-plug type sensor for my CHT readouts, or the screw-in type. I have
>heard the screw-in types are more accurate so will use those. The probe
>is a 3/8-24 thread, is this the correct one? Do these go into the small
>threaded hole above each cylinder, or below, or does it matter? Besides
>the 4 CHTs, I also have Manifold pressure to go into one of these
>openings.
CHT probes go in the bottom of the cylinder, pointing up. They measure the
temp of the cylinder head metal, so they don't actually protrude inside the
cylinder, just into a recess machined in the cylinder for this purpose.
Manifold pressure can be taken from one of the primer fitting holes. These
holes are near the oil return lines coming from each cylinder head, and are
probably currently plugged with pipe plugs on your engine. These holes go
into the intake manifold of the engine, near the valves.
Clear?
I have pictures, but haven't scanned them in yet, so I hope this explanation
is good enough.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in? |
>
>Listers;
>
>In installing my AV-8 engine monitor, I have a choice of using the
>spark-plug type sensor for my CHT readouts, or the screw-in type. I have
>heard the screw-in types are more accurate so will use those.
It doesn't seem to matter that much. I used the screw-in type for my O-320
and my AV-10.
>The probe
>is a 3/8-24 thread, is this the correct one? Do these go into the small
>threaded hole above each cylinder, or below, or does it matter?
The well for the CHT probe is on the bottom of the head below (toward the
crankcase) the spark plug hole.
>Besides
>the 4 CHTs, I also have Manifold pressure to go into one of these
>openings.
I think you are mistaking the plugs in the intake for the CHT probe well.
Check for the CHT well below the spark plug. I tapped for MAP for my AV-10
off the bottom intake hole where the primer usually goes.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
>Any ideas? Does the carbeurator float bowl system cause this sort of
>up-and-down flow behavior?
Yes, I see that behavior with my carb at low flow rates periodically. The
problem does not manifest itself at higher flow rates in flight.
BTW, watch out for flow rates that fluctuate upward in cruise. That is a
hint that vapor bubbles are going through the flow sender. It could
indicate incipient vapor lock or a small leak in the system.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
ration which certainly makes sense to me. After all, a
larger volume of rubber would be entrained by the metal casing than with
a traditional bushing.
I couldn't find anything in the archives about them. All I know is that
they're relatively expensive, in the range of $350 for a set of four.
I wouldn't mind having less vibration but I can certainly live with what
I've got. My biggest problem with the regular conical bushing is the
limited lifespan.
I'm looking for advice on the following:
1. Do these fancy Lord bushings last substantially longer than
traditional ones?
2. Does the engine flex more, less or about the same as with traditional
ones?
3. How much does the engine get moved forward by these new Lord
bushings?
Thanks for any information. Please accept my apologies for using
RV-List bandwith for a non-builder question, but it may have operational
interest for those of us flying conical mount engines.
Mark
RV-4 owner
WA state
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McMullen <donrmc(at)gte.net> |
Does anyone have any experience with the Rocky Mountian Insttruments
engine moniter?
I am thinking about getting one with alot of the extras such as fuel
flow all 4 cht & egt amp. volt ect.
This is a light weight instrument and would cost just about the same as
if I bought all the seperate ones.
But am I putting all my eggs in one basket is this piece of gear
reliable?
I am not on the list so if any one has any Info please respond directly
to my E-mail address donrmc(at)gte.net.
thanks Don McMullen Quick build RV-6A Building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>rh wrote:
>>
>> My gill battery is 4 years old and it is still perfectly healthy. Should I
>> just keep using it until it gets weak or should I just get a new one?
>>
>> Rebecca
>
>Rebecca,
>
>If you get rid of your present battery before it gets weak, you will get
>no more out of it and you will start the amortization of your new
>battery at once. If you wait until your present battery gets weak,
>which you can tell by slow cranking or having to bump the starter past
>the first compression stroke on the first flight of the day, you will
>have extracted the maximum amount from your investment in the battery.
>
>I got 3.5 years out of my last Concorde 25Amp lead-acid battery.
. . . . and I've got a battery in my Voyager that over 4 years
old . . . but I NEVER depend on the battery to take over
essential duties for comfortable termination of the journey.
Beat'em til they die is perfectly acceptable for day-vfr service
where potential total loss of electrical system is of no concern
to the pilot.
As battery technology continues to improve, battery ability to crank
an engine in spite of below-minimums capacity will become a
strong possiblity. By all means do whatever you're comfortable
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in? |
The holes on the top are blind holes or wells for the CHT. Manifold pressure
sensors won't work in these holes. The Manifold pressure sensor should
replace a plug in the intake system. I believe you can use on of the primer
holes which is what I think you are referring to when you say "below".
Using the screw in probes are better than the spark plug type as your don't
disturb them when hanging plugs. Accuracy is not important, relative
temperature between cylinders is what you are looking for to get your
cooling baffles set. Then you do want actual temps for max temperature. But
you should see overtemps earlier from the EGT to prevent damages.
-----Original Message-----
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 11:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in?
>
>Listers;
>
>In installing my AV-8 engine monitor, I have a choice of using the
>spark-plug type sensor for my CHT readouts, or the screw-in type. I have
>heard the screw-in types are more accurate so will use those. The probe
>is a 3/8-24 thread, is this the correct one? Do these go into the small
>threaded hole above each cylinder, or below, or does it matter? Besides
>the 4 CHTs, I also have Manifold pressure to go into one of these
>openings.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net wrote:
> >5. Use the archives.
> >Contrary to some, I've not been able to get much from the archives.
>
> I would greatly encourage anyone who has not tried the new search engine
> to do so. It is much, much better than the old one. I have found it to
> work flawlessly. Also I don't believe the subject line has any special
> function on the search engine. The engine searchs the entire text.
For those who are new to the list (and with apologies to those who've
seen me blowing this particular trumpet too often already), I'll
mention "The Bunny's Guide to RV Building", available at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm>. This is a compilation of
what I've learnt or discovered whilst building my RV-6, including lots
of information which I've gleaned from the RV-List. It also includes
links to other RV-related sites. Two advantages that the Guide has
over the archives are photographs (over 100 now), and organisation.
The Guide has now grown to over 500KB of text, divided up into the
following sections:
Pre-Build Stuff
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny0a.htm> The Decision to Build
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny0b.htm> Construction Techniques
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/btime.htm> Time to Build
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/blinks.htm> Links and References
Empennage
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny1a.htm> Tailplane and Fin
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny1b.htm> Rudder and Elevators
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/carter0.htm> David Carter's notes on
building the VS, Rudder, and Elevators.
Wings
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2a.htm> Spars and Ribs
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2b.htm> Skinning
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm> Tanks
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm> Ailerons and Flaps
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny3.htm> Fuselage
Avionics
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny5a.htm> DIY Avionics
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny5b.htm> RST-564 Audio Panel
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny5c.htm> Lighting
One of my aims in creating the Guide was that it would be a complement
to the RV-List... providing answers to frequently asked questions
before they are asked. Accesses to the Guide index now run at about 12
per day (1040 total), with most of the sections averaging 1-2 hits per
day. Hopefully that's reduced RV-List traffic by 1000 or more
yet-another questions.
Since I can't make all the mistakes possible, I can't learn all the
lessons either. Also, my interest in (e.g.) empennage construction has
dropped to near zero since I finished mine, so I'm not going to spend
much time on adding to those pages. Therefore I encourage people to
contribute their experiences to the Guide... email them to me, and
I'll add them to the Guide.
Now returning you to your scheduled program...
Frank.
RV-6 #24692, Hanging second aileron.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
<< How many of you flying
have actually tested your gear legs? I've only had three (3) responses
(all negative)
to my post in August requesting test data.... >>
Fred: I dye checked mine after your incident, and several porpoising landings
on rough turf that got a bit wilder than I liked...
NO CRACKS... at least not in the area not covered by the fiberglass.
I will be checking this situation at least annually. Due diligence is just
that: what we owe ourselves to manage the known risks.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A N30YD
32 hrs TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Titanium Landing Gear for -6A nose gear? |
<< I understand titanium is 56% of the
weight of steel and stronger.
I know the Sonex is using titanium and so are the Harmon Rockets.
The Rocket does use that expensive stuff.
snip
Harmon uses a tapered leg and I think someone said he had to
respec his because of a failure.
Correct again! We had to remove a "step" machined into the leg near the bottom
of the gear socket. The failure was exactly the same as Fred's -6 nose gear,
but it was BOTH legs at the same time! WHAM! Without getting too technical,
that particular failure cause has not been determined- embrittlement from
vibration, improper installation, over-gross operation, chemical
contamination, etc.
Please keep in mind that metal fails in tension, not compression. A discussion
last night with a -6 driver who is VERY familiar with heat treating and other
sorts of metal conditioning suggested shot-peening for any metal used like we
use our gear legs. This will keep the surface in a compression state, more or
less preventing cracks from starting. No cracks start, no leg breaking. It
would be the same situation with titanium (tension will start a crack), so
that may not be the cure-all for this particular event. With titanuim, your
wallet would be MUCH lighter- we pay $850 for EACH gear leg!
Anyway, if there is someone with some knowledge about this I would
appreciate it.
There you have what I remember from my conversation with that engineer...
Check six!
Mark
HR2 295 hrs
See y'all at Abilene this weekend!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Here's what I did on the trailing edges of my elevators and rudder. I
plan to do same on the other controls, as needed. I couldn't get the
bend with the dowel, either. I decided to do the squeezing without it;
but, I made templates to match the plans. I then proceeded to go
down each trailing edge, using the template as I went. It worked well
and made me feel a lot better. I'm sure the ailerons will get the same
treatment since I've already made the template.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Hanging parts on the engine.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Landing Gear |
Shelby:
No, actually steel is much stronger than Titanium but about three times as heavy.
There are many grades of steel and each may have it's strength modified by temper.
ASTM A-4130 steel (usually known as "chrome moly" is the most common steel alloy
used in aircraft construction and is about twice as strong as titanium. Pound for
pound titanium is stronger but costs much more. If cost were not an issue (such
as
military aircraft) much of the aircraft would be made of titanium.
For homebuilt aircraft, steel is actually a better value. A pound or two of chrome
moly in a critical area such a the root of the nose gear could easily double the
strength in that area. However, the cause of failure of the nose gears has not
been determined (or at least not published). It may be that the failed nose gear
struts had surface defects which caused stress risers. If so, the stress risers
failed in fatigue, not over stress. If fatigue is found to be the problem (which
appears likely) the solution could be to examine the affected gear for surface
defects and correct that problem by grinding smooth any defects and/or heat
treating the affected area. Another solution would be to "beef" the affected area
by adding more steel to reduce the stress on the affected area which greatly
increases fatigue life. A properly designed titanium nose strut with surface
defects would fail in fatigue in the same way as steel. Surface defects can be
caused by stray file marks, deep scratches from mishandling the material, or
cracking of welds from hydrogen imbrittlement during welding.
You may consider expressing your concerns directly to Van's and ask for more
information.
The builder is responsible for the manufacture of the aircraft. Van's is
responsible for the design of the aircraft. Van should review the situation
carefully and make a design recommendation if he feels one is necessary. No matter
what, Van is the most qualified person to review the problem.
Shelby Smith wrote:
>
> I am interested in whether there has been anyone who has seriously checked
> into the possibility of titanium gear. I understand titanium is 56% of the
> weight of steel and stronger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
In a message dated 10/12/98 9:24:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Rvator97(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Oh Yeah, here it comes! I knew it wouldn't be long before the " wheel
where
it belongs" types would be heard from.. >>
So, Walt,
The question is, WHEN there are more Nosedragger RV's than Taildraggers,
do you think we should let them fly formation with us???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
I'm starting to window shop panel goodies and am interested in listers
inputs, recommendations, warnings, regarding the following toys:
Transciever. Considering Icom, Terra, II Morrow, King. Cost, performance,
features, ease of use, warranty/support are all considerations more or less
in that order. So far the Icom A200 looks to be the best bang for the buck
($879 from Marv Golden here in San Diego). Are there any others I should
consider?
Transponder. I really dont know much about these or who makes them. Was
leaning toward the Terra based on size and because I like the digital
display, but with the rumors regarding Trimble/Terra Im not so sure. Same
cost, perf, features, etc... apply.
Intercom. I know nothing other than that I would like it to be a panel
mount and would like an aux stereo input.
I'd like to start with new stuff although I would consider used/refurbished
if it is still currently available modern equipment from a reputable source.
Please respond off list and if response is good I will compile results and
post to the list.
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
test it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry k. daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trim Tab??? |
I would like to build into my rudder a movable tab.
Anyone who has sucess with this, please forward your ideas.
If you wish respond directly to B747400(at)compuserve.com.
thanks LKD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>>> Mastic (hot melt adhesive) lined varieties are ideal for this duty as
they provide support for the cable at its highest load point and seal the
joint from corrosion. This is strongly recommended for soldered joints as
well as crimped.
(This is just a note from someone who has made (and remade) more crimp
connections than I like to think about.)<<<<
This is personal preference but installing shrink sleeving is considered to be
good practice. In some cases it can be installed after the termination is
completed if the normally available 2:1 shrinkage material can be slipped over
the end. There are some types of 3:1 shrinkage products available.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Erroneous RPM Reading on RMI Engine Monitor |
| From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
My RPM reads about double what it should read until the engine speed
reaches 2200RPM, then it begins reading correctly. I have checked wiring,
capacitors, connections, etc and know about the setting for 1 or 2 pulses
per RPM. I've even swapped RMI engine monitor boxes with a fellow RV
builder and got the same indications.
The engine is an O-320H2AD and runs great.
Has anyone had a similar problem and, if so, what is the fix?
BoB Hall, RV6 N976RH
Colorado Springs
Ready to Fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding of Brakes |
In a message dated 10/13/98 11:12:28 Central Daylight Time, n41va(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I am getting ready to fill my brake system with fluid. In using a pump can
to fill the system from the bottom-up(thru the nipple), do I need to keep
going until brake fluid comes out the reservoir on the firewall?>>
I would have someone watch the brake reservoir until fluid that has NO bubbles
in it, is seen coming up into the reservoir. After all, the purpose of
bleeding/backfilling the brakes, is meant to make sure all the air is out of
the system. Right?
Once airless fluid is seen coming out of one side of the brake system, repeat
the same steps for the other side.
Sometimes, it is necessary to draw a little fluid off the system, in order to
keep it from overflowing. A cooks suction bulb works real well for this, and
the thing is, this "special" tool doesn't cost a lot.
Once you have made sure airless fluid is coming into the reservoir from both
sides, then you can get up off the floor, and top off your system by filling
the reservoir up with fluid by pouring it in.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Do
the brakes have to be pumped at all during this process? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
Please remove my name from the list. It was just a great experience but I
have too much other things to do.
Thank you
Yves Boulais
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Plumbing Shopping List |
On 13 Oct 98, at 11:03, VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
> I am finding that one of the most difficult and time consuming things is
> figuring out what size and type of plumbing to order for the engine. Does
> anyone have a shopping list already made up for an 0360-Constant Speed
> setup? I seem to recall that Tim Lewis had a nice one on the list a while
> back.
I posted my list on 14 and 15 Mar 98. Should be in the archives.
Search for "ACS #10570" and "AN960-C916L" to find the two posts.
Experience gained since then leads me to suggest:
-Forget the air/oil seperator oil return line. Capture oil in Matco brake
reservoir as was suggested here a couple of weeks ago (although I
don't know what fixture is required for the top of the reservoir... just
got mine in the mail).
- Trak Auto has little $2.00, 1/8" "T" fittings to split Van's 1/8" plastic
line. I used the 1/8" line for manifold pressure line (inside the cabin)
between electronic ignition and engine computer.
- Trak also has larger "T" fittings which come in handy in pluming the
vacuume system
- Order a boatload of internal star washers (various sizes from -8 up to
big enough for nearly engine-mount-bolt size.
- Order a small boatload of rivnuts. Avery has an inexpensive
installation mandril that prevents needing a special installation tool...
you can just use the pop rivet puller.
- Plan everything with a marker right on the firewall. Think about
hoses interfering with each other. Think about where stuff on the
other side of the firewall (starter selenoid, brake valve) will go. Plan
routing of heater duct. Plan engine control cables so they won't
interfere with full rudder pedal throw or brake application.
- Patience! It took me about 400 hrs to do cowling, baffling, engine
installation, engine hookup. I am not a fast builder (!!!!) and I do have
a complicated system (CS prop, dual heaters, custom made brackets to
fit ACS cables, 4CHT/4EGT computer, etc).
Sure feels great when you crank the engine and she fires!
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
On 13 Oct 98, at 11:12, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> Yes, I see that behavior with my carb at low flow rates periodically. The
> problem does not manifest itself at higher flow rates in flight.
I guess I'm relieved that I'm not alone, but still puzzled. AC65-12A
describes the carbeurator float on page 117. It says ..."when the
engine is running and fuel is being drawn out of the float chamber, the
valve assumes an intermediate position so that the valve opening is
just sufficient to supply the reqired amount of fuel and keep the level
constant." This doesn't sound like a system that would demand
surges in fuel supply at constant RPM. Odd.
Any insight from other listers?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
All you guys folding your trailing edges must realize that these wooden
folders are a miserable tool, akward and not consistent. What I`ve been using
is a 48" sheet metal brake. Put masking tape on both sides of your T E, put T
E in brake 1/4-3/8, and push down carefully with the (hold down). I think
every small town has a sheet metal shop or air conditioning shop and wouldn`t
charge much to let you do a 15 minute job.
Fred LaForge RV-4 taxied yesterday,
wt.&balance today -- 1054
lbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Landing Gear |
Joe Walker wrote:
"Surface defects can be
caused by stray file marks, deep scratches from mishandling the material, or
cracking of welds from hydrogen imbrittlement during welding."
I am wondering if the edges of the socket are chafing the leg? I could imagine
this if the leg is able to move in the socket. Some mentioned shimmy as being
possibly related. I would expect shimmy to increase the chafing.
I suppose there are many RV6A's hours without the problem?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
don't be such a baby walt, I think he's just having alittle fun w/his friend.
carey mills
world champion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Van's refusal to share info |
>Oh Yeah, here it comes! I knew it wouldn't be long before the " wheel where
>it belongs" types would be heard from... under the current circumstances,
>these comments are neither funny, nor productive/helpful to the problem, and
>should not be aired on this forum.
>
>Walt Hastings RV-6A
Just a wee bit defensive are we? I thought it was funny (the original
poster's comment, not the nosewheel failures). But then my wheel is in
back where it belongs...
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
narts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
on the airframe. In particular, I'm wondering about the end
of the loop (the part where you're basically pulling out of
a dive). I'm curious as to how many g's that part puts on
the plane (for those of you who have g meters and have done
the loops). I know there are several factors which will
determine the exact force, but some ball park figures would
be nice. Thanks
RV6A- working on empenage (thinking WAY ahead)....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> I think that the factory has an obligation to point them out in their official
> publications (RV-ator, Service Bulletins, Service Letters) with the facts and
> the current factory position on each.
In my limited experience, Van is not one to jump the gun. He does his
home work well before publishing such data. The RV-3 spar investigation
took more than a year but in the end he sent out *free* spar mod
material to all RV-3 owners/builders!
Has an RVator issue been published since Fred's front gear failure?
How many RV6As flying? How many front gear failures?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous RPM Reading on RMI Engine Monitor |
> My RPM reads about double what it should read until the engine speed
> reaches 2200RPM, then it begins reading correctly.
I have the RMI monitor, but have not had any problems with the tach. My first
guess would be to re-check the mag timing, to make sure both mags are timed
perfectly. If your running the engine below 2200 rpm, and it's reading double,
what does it do when you do a mag check? Like at 1700 rpm (3400 indication)
does it indicate normal on one mag? Or does it indicate double on each mag
individually?
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for Governor |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I just found out the governor I have is unuseable with my
0-360-A-1-A/Hartzell CS prop combo. Does anyone have a used or
rebuildable governor to fit the above combo? Or any leads?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications |
Have your ever dropped an apple into a tube a water. It bounces up and
down. I think you float is doing the same thing as it might take a little
to un-seat it and then it bounces. It also maybe dragging on the side of
the float chamber. At a certain flow rate there might be a harmonic bounce.
When it un-seats the flow goes way up, then the flow slows down, then as the
float drops, it is high once again.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluctuating Fuel Flow Computer Indications
>
>On 13 Oct 98, at 11:12, Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>> Yes, I see that behavior with my carb at low flow rates periodically.
The
>> problem does not manifest itself at higher flow rates in flight.
>
>I guess I'm relieved that I'm not alone, but still puzzled. AC65-12A
>describes the carbeurator float on page 117. It says ..."when the
>engine is running and fuel is being drawn out of the float chamber, the
>valve assumes an intermediate position so that the valve opening is
>just sufficient to supply the reqired amount of fuel and keep the level
>constant." This doesn't sound like a system that would demand
>surges in fuel supply at constant RPM. Odd.
>
>Any insight from other listers?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>
>
>
>
>This is personal preference but installing shrink sleeving is considered to be
>good practice. In some cases it can be installed after the termination is
>completed if the normally available 2:1 shrinkage material can be slipped over
>the end. There are some types of 3:1 shrinkage products available.
>
>-GV
>
>
If you have access to heavy duty heat shrink used at your local
electric utility I'd recommend using it. The heat shrink we use at
our utility has a 'sealant/glue' inside the tubing and, combined with
the heavy wall of the tubing, does an excellent job of sealing that
joint as well as stopping any movement.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Metal flakes in oil inlet screen |
During an oil change today, I found 5 tiny metal flakes in my oil inlet
screen. They appear to have a highly polished surface on one side, like flakes
of chrome plating, but my cylinders aren't chrome plated. Disassembly of the
oil filter revealed a couple of very tiny pieces that were very similar. I
retained an oil sample that I'm sending off to have analyzed. My worst fear is
that they are from either the bearings or the lifters. My gut instinct is that
it's not normal to find pieces of metal in the screen's and filter. Has anyone
else ever found metal in the inlet screen that is considered normal wear and
tear?
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
You are right that you can pull as many or as few Gs as you like in any
maneuver. Start out around four and experiment from there. Your G level
will be highest on entry and exit. It will decrease as you slow during the
pull up, then increase again as you go nose-low during the pull-out.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
>on the airframe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Landing Gear |
In a message dated 10/13/98 6:00:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
<< I am wondering if the edges of the socket are chafing the leg? I could
imagine
this if the leg is able to move in the socket. >>
Having not even looked at an RV-6A nosegear socket yet, I am not qualified to
answer this, but I can guess pretty good. Is the inside diameter of the
socket tapered? Maybe it isn't tapered enough. I know a couple of people
with RV-6A's(not on-line, incidentally) I had better try to get a peek and
also pass on what has been happening to them. We "will" get to the bottom of
this.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Magnetos |
Dear Jerry,
I have a set of mags for sale. Call 920 432 4845 or reply off list.
Dick Martin----------
> From: Jerry Isler <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Magnetos
> Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 7:18 PM
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am looking for a pair of new or serviceable mags for an 0-320 Lycoming
> (modified 0-320-E2D). Some of you guys that converted to electronic
ignition
> may have what I'm looking for.
>
> Contact off list if you have one or both. A hot lead will would be great
if
> you don't have the mags!
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 #1060
> Donalsonville, Ga
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Pipe Thread Compounds |
Here is a post actually regarding RV building: Is the common hardware
store pipe joint compound with TFE appropriate for pipe threads in A/C fuel
system fittings? It says it is for fuel, but the application is rather
important, so I want to be sure. A & P's?
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Capsteve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
-----Original Message-----
From: MSN mail <solanas(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 7:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire
>
>Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of
the
>large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not
that
>good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>
>Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
>insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>connector. Should I have?
>
>Rick Solana, RV-6a N804RS
>Richmond, VA
>
rick they do make a crimper for 4 ga and larger. It resembles a pair of
boltcutters but has notches of different sizes for crimping. I've also
encountered a hammer type. it was a cast body that the connector sat in then
there was a hinged top that you smashed with a hammer. crude but it works. i
bought mine at my local electrical contractor supply company.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinion request |
talk to mark fredricks about the RV4 and its souped up companion the Harmon
Rocket II. I went with a rocket do to the speed etc. Mark will be offering a
quick build for it this spring and I am eagerly awaiting it so I can get
started. I have sat in all of the planes etc the rocket since i live in
oshkosh and eaa is like 5 mins away. The 8 is nice but I wanted more power
and the rocket provided that and also the cockpit is wilder in the rocket
Harmon Rocket II Homepage
(unofficial)
chris wilcox
oshkosh, wi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
What is the acceptable method for splicing wires? I looked in my
"Acceptable Methods...." book which says crimp connectors are preferable
over soldered connections which tend to be brittle.
It also said;
1:...to stagger splices in the same wire bundle so the diameter of the
bundle is not enlarged more than one splice connector thick.
2:...to not have more than one splice in a wire.
3:...to not splice closer than 12" from the unit.
The first I can do except where the wites comming out of the electrical
unit are to short to stagger...like the Mac 8A servo. I can't do the
second on this particular application because I will be hooking the servo
to the Matronics governer. I can't do the third because the wites are to
short.
So....solder or crimp? Since I can't meet the rest of the "acceptable
practices" I won't worry about them.
Ross Mickey
6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT; Bayonet or Screw-in? |
<< The holes on the top are blind holes or wells for the CHT. Manifold
pressure
sensors won't work in these holes. The Manifold pressure sensor should
replace a plug in the intake system. I believe you can use on of the primer
holes which is what I think you are referring to when you say "below".
Using the screw in probes are better than the spark plug type as your don't
disturb them when hanging plugs. >>
For the parallel valve Lycomings, CHT thermowells (F straight threads on a
spot faced boss) are on the underside of the barrel pointing straight down.
The primer or manifold pressure ports (1/8" FNPT) are on the lower corner of
the head pointing out and just slightly down. The top ports (1/8" FNPT) are
for the fuel injection lines.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I seem to remember a discussion on CO
monitors awhile back, but got no hits. So, does anyone know what is
available
and where? >>
There are three or so of the simple button type. Some are designed to be
replaced anywhere from every month to every 18 months. Chief and ACS have
them all.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>Even though I just happily smashed the large connectors onto the ends of the
>large (#2 or #4 gauge)starter wire, it seems to me that the grip is not that
>good, especially given all the engine vibration.
>
>Is there a special crimping technique or tool? Also, I didn't include any
>insulation in the crimp, only because it didn't readily slide into the
>connector. Should I have?
>Rick Solana, RV-6a N804RS
Rick,
Bob Nuckolls has a very good article on attaching connectors to big gauge
wires on his web site. I have used his technique and things look very robust.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding of Brakes |
>I am getting ready to fill my brake system with fluid. In using a pump
>can to fill the system from the bottom-up(thru the nipple), do I need to
>keep going until brake fluid comes out the reservoir on the firewall? Do
>the brakes have to be pumped at all during this process? I thought about
>slipping a stick down into the reservoir, pump one side until there is a
>fluid level on the stick, then pump the other side till there is a higher
>fluid level. Would this work? Seems like it would save the mess on brake
>fluid spilling.
Von,
Get someone to look in the resevoir while you pump fluid in (you will see
it rising through the clear tubing anyway. Once the fluid is above the
master cylinder (visible in the clear tubing) you can give the pedal a few
pumps to clear out any bubbles trapped in the master. I put in enough to
just start filling the resevoir on one side and then finished filling it
from the other. Its an easy and satisfying process.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Failure Summary, withholding information |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> > I think that the factory has an obligation to point them out in their official
> > publications (RV-ator, Service Bulletins, Service Letters) with the facts and
> > the current factory position on each.
>
> In my limited experience, Van is not one to jump the gun. He does his
> home work well before publishing such data. The RV-3 spar investigation
> took more than a year but in the end he sent out *free* spar mod
> material to all RV-3 owners/builders!
>
> Has an RVator issue been published since Fred's front gear failure?
>
> How many RV6As flying? How many front gear failures?
>
> Finn
>
I also think that this report should be taken into consideration. Especially
the part about exiting the rwy at a high rate of speed.
B. Reg.No.: 26MH M/M: EXP Desc: EXP/HOMEBUILT: VANS RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Landing GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: ACFT LANDED ON RWY 30L AND NOSED OVER WHILE ATTEMPTING TO EXIT THE
RWY AT A HIGH SPEED, MESA, AZ.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
Loops can be done at any g-loading from about 3 up. I enter a loop at about
160mph indicated, pull 3g's up through vertical, float over the top at about
65, and pull 3gs on the way back down. This results in a very big loop, but
it is very graceful, and very gentle on the airframe and the carbon life
forms inside. You can make them smaller, with resulting higher g-loads.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
>I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
>on the airframe. In particular, I'm wondering about the end
>of the loop (the part where you're basically pulling out of
>a dive). I'm curious as to how many g's that part puts on
>the plane (for those of you who have g meters and have done
>the loops). I know there are several factors which will
>determine the exact force, but some ball park figures would
>be nice. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
In a message dated 10/13/98 11:37:25 Central Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com writes:
<< Is the common hardware store pipe joint compound with TFE appropriate for
pipe threads in A/C fuel system fittings? >>
I would venture to say no. Here is why.
Normal pipe threads, are cut on a taper. If they are torqued properly, they
should seal themselves, with no additional additives required.
If you are using black iron, or galvanized pipe from the hardware store, then
a sealer such as pipe joint compound might be appropriate. However, if you are
using aircraft grade fittings with pipe threads, they should seal up nicely,
if they are properly aligned.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, Tennessee
(And an A&P for longer than I would like to admit.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Trailing edge |
There have been a few posts about rudder and aileron trailing edges in the
last few days. One word of advice when squeezing the aileron trailing edge.
Don't give them the final squeeze until after your first flights. I
squeezed mine and the within the next week the RVator (1993) arrived with
information on squeezing to rectify a heavy wing. Leave enough of a
rounded trailing edge so that you have enough material to squeeze if you
need to. Using a piece of wood and tapping from the back can make the
trailing edge a little fatter but I am afraid it will take the paint off so
have opted for a trimtab made of tapered balsa wood about 2" x 8" and 1/16
to 3/16 thick. Painted and glued to the bottom of the aileron. Works okay
but wish I had done it right.
This is where this list shines. Share and share alike. For those who
haven't got there yet, this may help.
Ken RV6 C-FKEH
Beautiful British Columbia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab??? |
<< I would like to build into my rudder a movable tab. >>
Whatever for?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
><< Is the common hardware store pipe joint compound with TFE appropriate for
>pipe threads in A/C fuel system fittings? >>
>
>I would venture to say no. Here is why.
>
>Normal pipe threads, are cut on a taper. If they are torqued properly, they
>should seal themselves, with no additional additives required.
>
>If you are using black iron, or galvanized pipe from the hardware store, then
>a sealer such as pipe joint compound might be appropriate. However, if you
are
>using aircraft grade fittings with pipe threads, they should seal up nicely,
>if they are properly aligned.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
>Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
>Memphis, Tennessee
>(And an A&P for longer than I would like to admit.)
Wendell,
I am not an A&P so hesitate to offer my advice over yours.....but...... I
found that the AN fittings tended to gall when screwed into the master
cylinders and brake units of the Parker-Hannefin manufactured components
that Van supplies. My local A&P suggested using just a smear of PTFE
compound on the threads..... this led to much less sweating and swearing. I
suspect that this may be due to lubrication rather than any sealing
properties.j
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Landing Gear for -6A nose gear? |
> Mark:
Other than cables, which can only fail in tension, most structural failures in
steel are compression. This is actually true of any metal. The compression failure
is usually known as "buckling" like the wing on a plane pulling too many gees.
A
piece of round or square tubing will usually fail by buckling the compression
face. Try a piece and see. As a general rule, bending of a solid bar will result
in failure in tension, bending in a thin wall tube, sheet metal, beam, channel,
or
angle will result in failure by buckling of the compression face.
On the other hand, fatigue failures are always in tension. The fatigue causes
small cracks to grow until the tension pulls the part apart at the crack. Shot
peening conditions the surface to eliminate small defects. However, it does not
induce permanent compression that counteracts the tension caused by landing
stresses. Normally, aircraft parts made of tubing and welds are stress relieved
by
heating with a torch. This method eliminates internal stresses (both tension and
compression) to let the part work the best it can. It also helps prevent the
cracking due to uneven cooling which can sometimes occur after welding.
I am not sure exactly what information you were requesting. I hope this is of some
use.
How many pounds are saved by using titanium on the landing gear of the HR2?
Joe Walker
Deciding what gauges to add
Houston
>
>
> Please keep in mind that metal fails in tension, not compression. A discussion
> last night with a -6 driver who is VERY familiar with heat treating and other
> sorts of metal conditioning suggested shot-peening for any metal used like we
> use our gear legs. This will keep the surface in a compression state,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Metal flakes in oil inlet screen |
<< During an oil change today, I found 5 tiny metal flakes in my oil inlet
screen. They appear to have a highly polished surface on one side, like
flakes
of chrome plating, but my cylinders aren't chrome plated. Disassembly of the
oil filter revealed a couple of very tiny pieces that were very similar. I
retained an oil sample that I'm sending off to have analyzed. My worst fear
is
that they are from either the bearings or the lifters. My gut instinct is
that
it's not normal to find pieces of metal in the screen's and filter. Has
anyone
else ever found metal in the inlet screen that is considered normal wear and
tear?
Mark LaBoyteaux >>
Mark,
One way to help figure out what type metal you have or where
its comming from is to use a magnet on the flakes and see if theyre magnetic
or not. You left out a few important details. Engine total time or time since
overhaul. Its normal to have some flakes on a newer or newly overhauled engine
with a couple hundred hours on it. How long its been since the last time you
checked the screen. You mentioned that the cylinders you have are not chrome.
Are they steel? Cermichrome? There are many variables. If you have a reputable
engine shop or a good mechanic in your area they may be able to help put your
mind at ease.( The oil analysis is always a good idea when in doubt. )
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SHawksw523(at)aol.com |
Please unsubscribe me from the list for the time being - I'm changing internet
providers.
thanks
Stuart Hawksworth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | More Mazda Powered Rv-6A Photos |
For those of you interested, Don Mack has just posted some photos of
the engine compartment of my Mazda Powered RV-6A on his web page
www.flash.net/~donmack/.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
In a message dated 10/14/98 3:58:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU
writes:
<< Normal pipe threads, are cut on a taper. If they are torqued properly, they
>should seal themselves, with no additional additives required. >>
As a piping contractor I must disagree with this statement. Pipe dope is used
first as a lubricant, because when threads are cut, there is a jagged surface
to the cut threads, and second it also fills in the spaces, however small,
between the cut threads on the pipe, and the cut threads in the fitting.
Teflon is used because it is a good lubricant. Gasoline is a solvent and as
such will find leaks that few other liquids will. Therefore, I would use some
type of sealant/lubricant on any threaded connections, especially fuel line
ones.
To answer the original question, yes, PTFE containing dopes are suitable for
fuel system use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Titanium Landing Gear |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: halk(at)sybase.com [SMTP:halk(at)sybase.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 8:17 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Landing Gear
>
>
> I am wondering if the edges of the socket are chafing the leg? I
> could imagine
> this if the leg is able to move in the socket. Some mentioned shimmy
> as being
> possibly related. I would expect shimmy to increase the chafing.
>
> I suppose there are many RV6A's hours without the problem?
>
> hal
>
Hal,
The design of the motor mount tube and the gear leg shape
rules out a chafing problem. The break on my gear leg was a classical
fatigue break due to a crack that formed just below larger diameter area
of the lower tube bearing area. The break occurred in an area where the
leg diameter is significantly less than the area that mates with the
tube.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
<< Is the common hardware
store pipe joint compound with TFE appropriate for pipe threads in A/C fuel
system fittings? It says it is for fuel, but the application is rather
important, so I want to be sure. A & P's? >>
No,no,no NEVER use thatTFE tape on your aircraft fittings! It is very likely
that a small pc of the end will work its way into a fuel or oil system, with
potential consequences. We use Permatex #2 here, but there are others
available.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
Adrian...
In a well performed loop, you should pull 3 to 3.5 G's. By the way, when
done correctly, you should pull close to this going up and at the bottom.
Do yourself a favor and get instruction before you try it. The big danger
is not getting over the top or falling out at the top.
Chat Daniel
RV-8 678RV (reserved)
----------
> From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: aerobatics
> Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 9:21 PM
>
>
> I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
> on the airframe. In particular, I'm wondering about the end
> of the loop (the part where you're basically pulling out of
> a dive). I'm curious as to how many g's that part puts on
> the plane (for those of you who have g meters and have done
> the loops). I know there are several factors which will
> determine the exact force, but some ball park figures would
> be nice. Thanks
>
> RV6A- working on empenage (thinking WAY ahead)....
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I'm wondering about the end
of the loop (the part where you're basically pulling out of
a dive). I'm curious as to how many g's that part puts on
the plane (for those of you who have g meters and have done
the loops). >>
Adrian-
I enter loops in my 6A at 180 mph. Pull-up and recovery are 3.5g. 70 mph
over the top.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
During transition training with Mike Seager in the RV-6, I asked him
about loops. He said "sure, you just keep pullin' about two G's all
the way around". We didn't do any then; matter-o-fact I've never done
a loop, but that's what I recall Mike saying. Sounds like that would
make a big, lazy loop compared to what everyone else is saying.
-Larry
Mental loops while working on RV-8 Rudder
---Chat Daniel wrote:
> In a well performed loop, you should pull 3 to 3.5 G's. By the way,
when
> done correctly, you should pull close to this going up and at the
bottom.
> Do yourself a favor and get instruction before you try it. The big
danger
> is not getting over the top or falling out at the top.
>
> Chat Daniel
> RV-8 678RV (reserved)
>
> ----------
> > From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
> >
> > I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
> > on the airframe. In particular, I'm wondering about the end
> > of the loop (the part where you're basically pulling out of
> > a dive). I'm curious as to how many g's that part puts on
> > the plane (for those of you who have g meters and have done
> > the loops). I know there are several factors which will
> > determine the exact force, but some ball park figures would
> > be nice. Thanks
> >
> > RV6A- working on empenage (thinking WAY ahead)....
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> Here is a post actually regarding RV building: Is the common hardware
> store pipe joint compound with TFE appropriate for pipe threads in A/C fuel
> system fittings? It says it is for fuel, but the application is rather
> important, so I want to be sure. A & P's?
>
> Thanks,
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
Alex
I'm not an A&P, but when I looked into this I found a product called
Fuel Lube. This coincided with someone on the list selling it in film
containers for 5.00$. I've had no leaks or problems.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
<< I am not an A&P so hesitate to offer my advice over yours.....but...... I
found that the AN fittings tended to gall when screwed into the master
cylinders and brake units of the Parker-Hannefin manufactured components
that Van supplies. My local A&P suggested using just a smear of PTFE
compound on the threads..... this led to much less sweating and swearing. I
suspect that this may be due to lubrication rather than any sealing
properties.j
>>
On advice of my mechanic, I used a dollop of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket
black goo on the brake system threaded fittings, especially helpful on the
brass elbows going into the master cylinders on the pedals, which never seemed
to point in the desired direction when tightened "dry." So far, 100%
satisfied. Also used this material under the gaskets for the fuel tank
inspection plates and senders, on the threads for the quick-drains, etc. No
leaks!
Bill B
RV-6A flying / western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
OK folks,
I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
I do not see any indication of that.
Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop???
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A nose gear stresses 101 |
Listers:
More from the engineer I spoke with about the -6A nose gear failure. For
flames, etc, see the bottom line.
Check six!
Mark
<< Subj: Re: Fwd: RV-List: Titanium Landing Gear for -6A nose gear?
Date: 98-10-14 10:46:45 EDT
Mark,
The comments on steel failure forwarded to me are not accurate.
I can assure you that there are several different types of failure modes
for steel. His response does not address fatigue failure at all.
Fatigue failure is the cause of the gear failure I have seen and heard
about.
Fatigue failure is ALWAYS in tension. Any Metallurgy 101 book will
confirm that.
Shotpeening DOES create compressive stresses at the surface. The surface
compressive stresses do improve the fatigue limits of normal steel
members. I have seen the results of X-Ray defraction testing which
actually quantified the residual COMPRESSIVE stress from shot peening
processes.
I am very concerned that people might ignore the potential benefits of
shot peening based upon some uninformed opinions which are broadcast on
the web. I'm not trying to sell shot peening - but it works.
Another potential way to improve the fatigue life of gear legs is to
polish them at the highly stressed areas. This eliminates the minute
scratches (stress risers) and also eliminates the decarburization which
is present on the surface of the 6150 heat treated steel gear legs.
Decarburization is evidenced by the black oxide which is present on the
gear legs as recieved from Vans. Describing why removing decarburization
helps fatigue life will take a very long explanation. Thats in
Metallurgy 201.
Hot Rodders have not been polishing and shot peening connecting rods,
cranks, etc. for the past 50 years because they had too much extra time
or money.
Please stick this on the web. My Email address is seibert(at)swbell.net if
anybody wants to comment or flame me.
Regards,
Bob
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
<< To answer the original question, yes, PTFE containing dopes are suitable
for
fuel system use. >>
I have found that for aircraft fuel systems these are the general rules:
-A properly flared connection requires no sealant, however a thread lubricant
may be helpful.
-All NPT threaded joints need some kind of sealant/lubricant.
-Sealants must be non-permanent/non-hardening.
-Use all sealants sparingly and only in the thread area that will be engaged.
-DO NOT use PTFE (Teflon) threadseal tape, ever!
-PTFE containing dopes are acceptable, but not preferred, because they won't
always prevent the galling and seizure that can occur in aluminum to aluminum
or stainless to stainless applications (I have found that the Permatex/Loctite
brands work best)
-Fuelube/Sealube products (sold thru aviation suppliers) are best for use on
aluminum to aluminum or stainless to stainless NPT threaded joints as they
prevent galling and seizure.
-The old standby, Permatex gasket sealer #2 (flexible), will also work well
for everything.
-Torque all fittings properly.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics (loops) |
>
>I'm wondering about loops and the force which may be exerted
>on the airframe.
If you think about it, you have gravity and airspeed working against you at
the bottom of the loop and helping you at the top. For a constant radius
loop (read: round) your airspeed will be higher at the bottom and you will
be pulling against gravity. I find that an entry pull of about 3.5 g and
an entry speed of about 130 kts indicated is comfortable.
If you don't pull hard enough you won't complete the first 180 degrees by
the time you run out of airspeed and if you pull too hard the induced drag
will burn off your energy (you run out of airspeed) before you complete the
first 180 degrees (this is less of a problem with our slick airplanes). I
find that I "float" over the top at about 70 kts and about 0.5 g.
As you come down the backside, be sure to pull hard enough that the
airplane doesn't overspeed. Our RV's are slick and accelerate like a
squeezed watermelon seed when the nose is pointed down. If you think about
it, you will realize that to complete a round loop, the pull and airspeed
at the end of the loop will be exactly the same as the initial pull and
airspeed to start the loop.
As for "falling out the top," that will happen if you run out of energy
before you reach the apex of the loop. The safe thing to do is to go to
zero angle of attack (zero G) so the wing doesn't stall even if you get
really slow. It won't be a pretty loop but you won't stall/spin either (no
stall, no spin, no exceptions). Just ride it over the top and let the nose
fall through naturally (the fall-through may be surprisingly quick). Once
you get a bit of airspeed you may start to pull again and round out the
bottom.
Like others, I recommend going out and doing some aerobatics with an
aerobatic instructor just to get the feel of things. I did my
RV-transitional aerobatic training in a Christen Eagle and found that, with
the exception of the RV's greater acceleration when pointed downhill, the
two weren't all that far apart in terms of behavior (positive G maneuvers
here). An RV-whatever and a Citabria/Decathalon are two completely
different breed of cat so I suspect that, if you are used to what a
Citabria does, you might be a bit surprised when you try to do the same
things in your RV.
Disclaimer: I am not you. Your milage may vary.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Opinion request |
Question??
Does the Rocket still have full aerobatic capability?
What is so wild about the cockpit?
hal
> and the rocket provided that and also the cockpit is wilder in the rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
<< I am puzzled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
I do not see any indication of that.
Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop??? >>
Ed-
When it's just sitting there on the ground what does the VSI read? Should be
zero. When you had your Mode C system calibrated, the shop would have brought
out an instrument that simulates the pressure changes that would occur at
altitude. This equipment can be used to check the VSI also. It certainly
sounds as your VSI has something wrong with it, if your info regarding the ASI
and Altimeter is accurate.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
indicating approx 1000 fpm down.<
Does it read a descent on the ground? There is usually an adjustment screw
on the face of the instrument. Typically a small screw in the bottom left
of the faceplate.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
riveting bottom wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Metal flakes in oil inlet screen |
Hi Mark:
The message from Ryan Bendure Co. pretty well covers it. From past
experience would add the following. If the flakes are aluminum, engines
equipped with aluminum wrist pin plugs will sometimes shed the occasional
flake. If it is steel and the screen was clean on previous oil change I
would find the source before running it any more. This can sometimes be
done without a complete tear down such as pulling a couple of cylinders. If
I can be of any help contact me at my email address.
Good luck.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal flakes in oil inlet screen |
>
> During an oil change today, I found 5 tiny metal flakes in my oil inlet
>screen. They appear to have a highly polished surface on one side, like
flakes
>of chrome plating, but my cylinders aren't chrome plated. Disassembly of the
>oil filter revealed a couple of very tiny pieces that were very similar. I
>retained an oil sample that I'm sending off to have analyzed. My worst
fear is
>that they are from either the bearings or the lifters. My gut instinct is
that
>it's not normal to find pieces of metal in the screen's and filter. Has
anyone
>else ever found metal in the inlet screen that is considered normal wear and
>tear?
Bearing material is neither hard nor shiny. If the metal is ferrous
(magnetic) you are probably looking at cam/lifter/crank/oil pump gear
material. Given the propensity for Lycoming engines to lunch their
cams/cam followers (lifter bodies), that is the first place I would look.
If you look at the top of the engine you will notice that two of the
pushrod housings are lined up with each other (I think it is #2 intake and
#3 exhaust but I don't have either engine or overhaul manual in front of
me). Since this cam lobe drives two followers/lifters, this is the one
that usually fails first. Pull one of the involved cylinders (#2 or #3) so
you can inspect the cam lobes (be careful to protect the rod with a rag
when you lay it against the edge of the case). I bet this is where your
metal is coming from. If so, you win the $10,000 opportunity to overhaul
your engine. Sorry.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> During transition training with Mike Seager in the RV-6, I asked him
> about loops. He said "sure, you just keep pullin' about two G's all
> the way around".
If you pull constant Gs in a loop, the loop obviously isn't a circle; it's more
like a script "e." This maneuver has a name, but I forget it; the point is that
it isn't a classical loop because you come out of the loop at a different point
than where you enter it, i.e., you gain ground during the loop.
One prevents a stall at the top of a well-executed loop by smoothly pulling
sufficient Gs when entering it and having sufficient airspeed. I recommend some
competent instruction prior to trying any aerobatic maneuvers other than, perhaps,
lazy eights. You may otherwise suddenly find yourself in a position that you'll
find scary at best and, at worst, dangerous.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> < compound on the threads.....
> >>
>
> On advice of my mechanic, I used a dollop of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket
> black goo on the brake system threaded fittings, . . .
Isn't anyone but me using Fuel Lube on threaded fittings? Have I screwed up
again?
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Left Elevator Rear Spar Problem |
After mounting my elevators I laid a straight edge on the left to line up
the trim tab and saw a huge valley in the elevator that I hadn't noticed
before.
The archives turned up Dave Carter's post (which I must have missed somehow)
and responses indicate that the elevator rear spar is delivered too wide
(which would account for my problem).
A response to Dave's question indicates that this is a common problem - but
I'm worried about the aerodynamic effects. Will this dip behave as a trim
tab itself (deflecting airflow upwards) and have to be counteracted by
trim (ergo more drag)? Am I building a slow airplane here? Does it
matter? Am I being too, er.... attentive?
I'm bummed!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp details, starting wings by the end of the month!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
Reads zero sitting on the ground, so still puzzled??
Ed
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
>
> Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
> When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
> indicating approx 1000 fpm down.<
>
> Does it read a descent on the ground? There is usually an adjustment screw
> on the face of the instrument. Typically a small screw in the bottom left
> of the faceplate.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> riveting bottom wing skins
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall mounted oil cooler |
Listers,
I'm just beginning to work on my firewall mounted oil cooler. In the
instructions, it is suggested that a back plate be installed on the firewall
to take up some of the vibration caused by the cooler. Since they
didn't include the material in the kit, can those of you who installed the
firewall version tell me what thickness you used and about how far past
the cooler you went on all sides? I just want to make sure the thing is
thick enough and with enough area to do the job. Besides, I think I'm
going to need some ballast up front, anyway. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
What does it read on the ground?
----------
>
>
> OK folks,
> I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
> When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
> indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
> indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
> are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
> It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
> calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
> only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
> positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
> cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
> I do not see any indication of that.
>
> Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop???
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW
> Vienna, VA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nut Installation- another 2 cents worth |
>
>Scott:& Mark
>
>If the parts don't work as produced, why not change the specification on one
>or the other part?
In the days before front wheel drive some car manufacturers on their
front wheel bearings used a normal thin nut with a hardened washer
between nut and bearing with a pressed steel shaped like the inside of a
twelve sided socket with slots in the portion on the axel. This gave a
fine adjustment.
These pressing should be cheaply available from the automotive industry.
This also means changing the number washers with the thin nut for each
application is easy.
P.S. Scott if you want a drawing email me offline, as an engineer
sketches are easier than English.
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A nose gear stresses 101 |
Mark:
Being a practicing structural engineer with a specialty in failure analysis for
over twenty years has made me pay close attention to this thread. I do not
remember seeing the posting which stated that fatigue failure was not due to
tension, perhaps you got it from another source..
For the record, shot peening only affects the surface and does not reduce, in any
way the, bending induced tension stresses. Shot peening works by making tiny
impact craters at random which act in the same way stop drilling a crack in
plexiglas stops the crack from growing. The microscopic stress discontinuities
which contain compressive forces directly under the impact points do not add or
subtract from the bending stress in any way. There are an equal amount of tension
forces added to satisfy the laws of physics. The whole purpose of shot peening
is
to prevent micro cracks from growing into big cracks.
Polishing removes surface defects and does the same thing in a different way. Heat
treatment does several things including, setting the temper, blending the grain
of
the metal to eliminate internal cracks, and eliminating internal stresses.
However, stress cycles work harden the metal and cause the basic grain structure
to change. Once this process is complete the metal has lost it's ductility and
becomes brittle. At this points it will break (instead of bend) and becomes
unsuitable for high stress applications no matter what type of surface treatment
it has had.
The standards of the FAA and all publications by the EAA are uniform about heat
treating (to remove internal stresses) and polishing (to remove stress risers).
It
should be noted that both of these processes are normally used in the manufacture
of hot rod crank shafts. Shot peening is not normally used in the manufacture of
aircraft because the standards for design and construction are so high and their
limits so well known, the addition of internal stresses, if only at a surface
level, are unnecessary. Hot rod crankshafts, by contrast, are commonly pushed well
past design limits and anything which helps delay failure is used.
They will eventually fail anyway, perhaps not as quickly.
There is nothing wrong with using shot peening as a surface treatment.. However,
if the design and construction of the homebuilt aircraft part are correct there
is
also no need for it. Shot peening will add no allowable stress to the design of
a
member nor will it add additional cycles to failure to the published fatigue
values for metals at a given temper. Hence the general absence of it in military
aircraft. The cost of shot peening could go to more gas or whatever.
I would appreciate you sending me the posting I missed, or whatever you sent your
friend. Perhaps we can help the listers understand the processes at work and ease
their concerns about the current nose gears failures. I also am concerned that
the
listers get good information. The best information will eventually come from Van.
This whole mess may eventually work out to being caused by a few critical parts
which were not properly heat treated or contained surface defects.
Joe Walker P.E. President
R.J. Walker & Associates, Inc.
Consulting Engineers
RV6 (the one without the nose gear)
> Mark,
> The comments on steel failure forwarded to me are not accurate.
> I can assure you that there are several different types of failure modes
> for steel. His response does not address fatigue failure at all.
> Fatigue failure is the cause of the gear failure I have seen and heard
> about.
> Fatigue failure is ALWAYS in tension. Any Metallurgy 101 book will
> confirm that.
> Shotpeening DOES create compressive stresses at the surface. The surface
> compressive stresses do improve the fatigue limits of normal steel
> members. I have seen the results of X-Ray defraction testing which
> actually quantified the residual COMPRESSIVE stress from shot peening
> processes.
> I am very concerned that people might ignore the potential benefits of
> shot peening based upon some uninformed opinions which are broadcast on
> the web. I'm not trying to sell shot peening - but it works.
> skip
> Hot Rodders have not been polishing and shot peening connecting rods,
> cranks, etc. for the past 50 years because they had too much extra time
> or money.
> Please stick this on the web. My Email address is seibert(at)swbell.net if
> anybody wants to comment or flame me.
> Regards,
> Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
While everyone has their favorite compound for pipe threads, it should be noted
that the application matters too. I was taught to apply a uniform thin layer to
all but the first one or two threads (the first ones to enter the joint). This
keeps any pipe dope from getting in your line.
Regards:
Joe Walker
Looking for gauges
RV6
Houston
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Whelan <twhelan(at)f22l11.mar.lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
Ronald Blum wrote:
>
> >>Van also commented about a BRS in a recent RVator - he said, as I recall,
> >>that the structural changes needed would be extensive, and he thought that
> >>the weight penalty would be great - as I recall his remarks.
>
> Think about the conditions in which YOU would deploy the chute. As a really
> rough estimate, opening loads would be in the range of
> (0.5)*rho*V^2*S*1.3 -at least. That's a lot of load going into the attach
> point . . . and a lot of Gs on you and the entire airframe. Van's right on
> the structural beef up.
Realize, however, that the S (reference area of the parachute) in your estimate
is
a function
of time. If that big honkin' parachute opens all at once with a pop -- yeah,
you're going to
leave two wet spotson the inside of your sunglasses and something in the airframe
or
parachute is going to give. If the chute opens gradually, the S starts out small,
reducing the V
as S grows, so the the deceleration is less.
Quote from AVweb: (http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news9828.html)
Cirrus' biggest bugaboo was getting a piece called a "slider" to work the way it
should. Any
parachute deployed at 160 knots on a plane as heavy as the SR20 is torn to shreds.
The slider
does just what the name implies...it "slides" down the inside of the parachute,
allowing more
and more fabric to deploy as the plane slows. That slider, says Maddy, was a "hard
thing to
get right." The CAPS system now deploys properly and manages to slow the plane's
descent
to less than 30 feet per second at 5,000 feet density altitude.
) 1998 The AVweb Group. All rights reserved.No, I'm not going to try to install
a
ballistic parachute in my RV-8 (I'll be sitting on one for flight
testing and aerobatics), but I thought this made for an interesting discussion.
Final note -- I wish I could remember which type it was, but within the last few
months I read
about an aircraft that experienced a loss of control during flight test and
deployed an aircraft
parachute system, but it wrapped around the airplane and couldn't save the test
pilot.
> Ron
> FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
>
> ps. This message will look like crap if I haven't solved my e-mail
> problems.
>
> ps2 As for the -8 proto, I have 110% confidence in Van's design. All
> airplanes will come apart when over-G occurs. The BRS would not have helped
> here, either.
You don't think so? How come? Roll
rate?
>
>
> ps3 Yes, in the 75 year history of spam, we have used all three different
> type of chutes we carry (personal, high speed and spin).
>
Todd Whelan
RV-8 #554 in Atlanta
twhelan(at)acs.mar.lmco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>Rick;
>
>I feel sure that there is a special tool for this crimping of battery line
>terminals. Since there are left handed monkey wrenches and special pieces
>of flight line
If you know any electricians (especially industrial electricians) or
contractors I am sure that they will have a "Hy-Press", it is used to crimp
large wire connections. The Hy-Press is a hydraulic press with a hand
pumped handle. The tool makes great crimp connections in large wire
(usually much larger than you will find in house wiring. #6AWG all the way
up through 750MCM). Perhaps if you bring the wire to them they will be
happy to crimp it for you.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Left Elevator Rear Spar Problem |
Mike,
I too had that problem. It bugged me alot but I left it alone and got on to building
the wings. While I was waiting for my fuselage kit, I had a little extra
time and went back and fixed it by drilling out the spar, bending it to the
right shape and riveting it back in. Looks like it's supposed to now.
I'm sure it wouldn't affect the handling, and alot of other things have a much
greater effect on drag. I fixed it because I hated the way it looked.
Laird in SoCal
RV-6 22923 Canopy stuff
>>I'm worried about the aerodynamic effects. Will this dip behave as a trim
tab itself (deflecting airflow upwards) and have to be counteracted by
trim (ergo more drag)? Am I building a slow airplane here? Does it
matter? Am I being too, er.... attentive?
I'm bummed!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp details, starting wings by the end of the month!<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinion request |
In a message dated 10/14/98 12:53:47 PM Central Daylight Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
> Does the Rocket still have full aerobatic capability?
This souncs like a question for Mark Fredricks
> What is so wild about the cockpit?
Cockpit is wider for the front seat 36" back seat is 25" I would assume
thats what the post ment instead of wilder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
----------
>From: "B&S Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: VSI Indication
>Date: Wed, Oct 14, 1998, 7:33 PM
>
>
>What does it read on the ground?
>
>----------
>>
>>
>> OK folks,
>> I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
>> When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
>> indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
>> indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
>> are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
>> It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
>> calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
>> only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
>> positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
>> cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
>> I do not see any indication of that.
>>
>> Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop???
>>
>> Ed Anderson
>> RV-6A N494BW
>> Vienna, VA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
1000 fpm seems excessive, but there is an adjustment on the face of every
VSI I've ever flown behind which can be used to set zero. It is a small
flathead screw on the edge of the dial. Just set it on the ground before
takeoff. I've heard rumors that a fingernail can be used to set it, although
I personally would never of course do that.
Of course, since it is an FAA approved device, which has been liberally
sprinkled with FAA holy water,you should probably keep your "amateur" hands
in your pocket and find an A&P.... ;-)
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
In a message dated 10/14/98 6:19:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
vwelch(at)knownet.net writes:
> >I feel sure that there is a special tool for this crimping of battery line
> >terminals. Since there are left handed monkey wrenches and special pieces
> >of flight line
>
Easist place to take a 1/0, 2, 4, 6 guage wire to get crimped is your local
car stereo shop. They are always dealing in 1/0 and 2 guage wire for the main
power wires. I have always run 2 guage wire in my car for the stereos and
they are usually younger guys working there and they will do alot of work for
free specially if you offer them a ride.
PS they are usually really good at wiring so if you need help, a few rides
will give you a lot of help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Off list: Crankcase vent line |
On 24 Sep 98, at 2:25, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Oil mist captured by condensing out on the s/s media sinks to the bottom
> of the separator where it runs into a bottle ACS p/n 06-11225 (a clear
> Matco brake fluid reservoir) equipped with a Saf-Air drain valve ACS p/n
> CAV-110H4 which gets drained at oil changes. The 5/8" outlet of the
> separator is dumped using more of the silicone hose with a whistle slot
> and a short piece of 5/8" aluminum tubing onto the right exhaust pipe.
GV,
How to do you attach the fluid line from the air/oil seperator to the
Matco brake reservoir. Mine has a bolt for a cap. I've been unable to
find a fitting that is the same diameter as the bolt. Did you just drill
thru your bolt, and attach the line to the bolt?
Thanks
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
I'd use a butt splice. One wire in one side, two in the other, then crimp
away.
Or if you're not afraid to solder.... If you're going to splice onto a
wire that has not been cut and has one end disconnected, you can strip a
bit more insulation off the end, then cut the insulation in the desired
splice location (hopefully not too far from the end of the wire), then
slide the insulation toward the wire end exposing bare wire in your desired
splice location. Slip some heat shrink tubing on past the exposed bare
wire and solder your wire splice to this bare spot. Make sure the wires
are parallel to each other and not perpendicular. Then slide the heat
shrink over the soldered wires and shrink it. You can modify this
technique if you have to cut the wire. I just don't like soldering three
wires together at once (although I've done it).
When I used to work as a tech we had these inline splices. They looked
like a butt splice with a wire coming out the side. Maybe someone knows of
a company that sells these things. Mr. Knuckolls?
>
>What is the acceptable method for splicing wires? I looked in my
>"Acceptable Methods...." book which says crimp connectors are preferable
>over soldered connections which tend to be brittle.
>It also said;
>1:...to stagger splices in the same wire bundle so the diameter of the
>bundle is not enlarged more than one splice connector thick.
>2:...to not have more than one splice in a wire.
>3:...to not splice closer than 12" from the unit.
>
>The first I can do except where the wites comming out of the electrical
>unit are to short to stagger...like the Mac 8A servo. I can't do the
>second on this particular application because I will be hooking the servo
>to the Matronics governer. I can't do the third because the wites are to
>short.
>
>So....solder or crimp? Since I can't meet the rest of the "acceptable
>practices" I won't worry about them.
>
>Ross Mickey
>6A Finishing Kit
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall Forward |
Fellow Builders,
I have a few questions for everyone as I fiddle with
all of the hook-ups on the engine. If you can help
me out, I'd appreciate it.
1) My engine, O-320-D2A has a fitting on top of the
number 1 cylinder opposite of the normal primer
port. My question is "Can I use this port (the top
one) to pull my manifold pressure from?" The other
cylinders do not have this port on top, only the one.
2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
fasten it.
Thanks folks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 - Engine compartment
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | trim tab range of movement |
Listers;
I am happy to report that RV-6 N827GB left my shop on 10-11-98 after almost
six years of work and now is at the local grass strip in my hanger awaiting
final details and a sign off by the FAA.
One question: in final assembly I noticed that I have almost the same range of
motion of my trim tab on the elevator as the ailerons require- 15 degrees down
and about 30 degrees up. Is 15 down enough? I find nothing in the assembly
manual that addresses range of travel for the trim tab.
Thanks.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
hoping to beat the snow to first flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
In a message I deleted, I think that you mentioned that it reads Zero on the ground.
Could it be that the Pitot is driving this instrument instead of the static?
It would logically seem that this would peg the vsi at it's lowest setting,
but them, I've never tried it.
----------
>
>
> What does it read on the ground?
>
> ----------
> >
> >
> > OK folks,
> > I am puzzeled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
> > When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
> > indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
> > indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
> > are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
> > It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
> > calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
> > only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
> > positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
> > cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
> > I do not see any indication of that.
> >
> > Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop???
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW
> > Vienna, VA
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A nose gear stresses 101 |
> I am very concerned that people might ignore the potential benefits of
> shot peening based upon some uninformed opinions which are broadcast on
> the web. I'm not trying to sell shot peening - but it works.
Pardon my ignorance but................................just what exactly is
shot peening?
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
I am in the process of dimpling the .040 rear wing spar on my RV8, and am not sure
how to dimple the holes near the root end on the top side of the wing. The
W-806GPP reinforcement fork gets in the way, especially for the last 5 holes
where the W807DPP reinforcement plate also gets in the way. I was thinking of
machine countersinking these 25 holes in the spar and dimpling the skin to fit,
but am concerned that countersinking the spar (it is only .040) will weaken
the joint or cause the rivets to work loose over time. How have other builders
been handling this problem? Am I missing something?
Aaron Gleixner
Wings - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward |
<< I have a few questions for everyone as I fiddle with
all of the hook-ups on the engine. If you can help
me out, I'd appreciate it.
1) My engine, O-320-D2A has a fitting on top of the
number 1 cylinder opposite of the normal primer
port. My question is "Can I use this port (the top
one) to pull my manifold pressure from?" The other
cylinders do not have this port on top, only the one.
It sounds like you have one cyl with this port drilled. We use the primer port
on the rear right cyl, to keep the hose shortest. It really doesn't matter
which port or cyl you use, but some are easier to hook up
2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
Remote. The sender could break at its threads if left to hang that way. Use
the fuel pump fitting from Van's that has the 1/4" hole drilled in it, and run
a hose to the sender (hung on the engine mount).
3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
fasten it.
A correctly sized non-cushioned (grounding) adel clamp, attaching the sender
to the firewall where it's easy to wire, would work fine. You could use the
same approach for the fuel sender, but it really should be mounted at the same
height as the port it reads from on carbureted engines (to read a fairly close
to correct pressure).
Neither of these lines really needs firesleeving- there is no flow, only
pressure. Use the correct restrictor orfices at the pressure sources, too.
Keep working- it's really worth it.
Check six!
Mark
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Aaron,
The .040 rear wing spar is more than thick enough to countersink for
those last few holes.
Although too late for this situation, I did not rivet the wing
skeleton together until after the skins were drilled, everything
deburred, dimpled and primed. Keeping things together with clecoes until
everything is done (as much as possible) has allowed me to back out of
problems spots more than once.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (skinning wings)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Hawkins" <jah(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
Hi Aaron,
I just machine countersinked (is this a word?) these on my wings. I think
they
even mention this in the manual.
Jeff Hawkins
RV-8 #563
Suwanee, Georgia
Wings done... Fuselage under way...
----------
> From: Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Rear Spar Dimpling
> Date: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 8:47 PM
>
>
> I am in the process of dimpling the .040 rear wing spar on my RV8, and am
not sure how to dimple the holes near the root end on the top side of the
wing. The W-806GPP reinforcement fork gets in the way, especially for the
last 5 holes where the W807DPP reinforcement plate also gets in the way. I
was thinking of machine countersinking these 25 holes in the spar and
dimpling the skin to fit, but am concerned that countersinking the spar (it
is only .040) will weaken the joint or cause the rivets to work loose over
time. How have other builders been handling this problem? Am I missing
something?
>
> Aaron Gleixner
> Wings - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding of Brakes |
I got very good results by using a simple pressure pot consisting of a 16 oz
model aircraft fuel tank filled with Hyd fluid. Connect to the brake,
pressurize to a few psi to get good flow. A tube from the reservoir to catch
the overflow. First trys left some air in the system. The solution was to
establish some flow and then pump the brake, very slowly. I have dual brakes
on the -6, and after one try, pumping both brakes on the circuit gave a
completely filled system.
Bruce Patton
All at the airport, wings going on this weekend!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Metal flakes in oil inlet screen |
Mark,
Don't know the time on your engine.
Knew a guy who found alum flakes
in the oil and it turned out to be the
oil pump gears. AD had not been acp.
RV4 Stew Bergner CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crankcase vent line |
<< How to do you attach the fluid line from the air/oil separator to the
Matco brake reservoir. Mine has a bolt for a cap. I've been unable to
find a fitting that is the same diameter as the bolt. Did you just drill
thru your bolt, and attach the line to the bolt? >>
Tim-
I tapped the cap hole out to 1/4" NPT, used an AN flare fitting, 3/8" alum
line and a short piece of 3/8" ID fuel line to join to the drain at the
separator.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
>I'd use a butt splice. One wire in one side, two in the other, then crimp
>away.
Agreed
>Or if you're not afraid to solder.... If you're going to splice onto a
>wire that has not been cut and has one end disconnected, you can strip a
>bit more insulation off the end, then cut the insulation in the desired
>splice location (hopefully not too far from the end of the wire), then
>slide the insulation toward the wire end exposing bare wire in your desired
>splice location. Slip some heat shrink tubing on past the exposed bare
>wire and solder your wire splice to this bare spot. Make sure the wires
>are parallel to each other and not perpendicular. Then slide the heat
>shrink over the soldered wires and shrink it. You can modify this
>technique if you have to cut the wire. I just don't like soldering three
>wires together at once (although I've done it).
>
>When I used to work as a tech we had these inline splices. They looked
>like a butt splice with a wire coming out the side. Maybe someone knows of
>a company that sells these things. Mr. Knuckolls?
Actually, a company called Raychem (and probably others) make some
very specialized solder sleeves that are installed with a heat gun.
They're commonly used to attach ground jumpers to the braided wires
of a shielded conductor. I've seen them used to create the kind of
butt joints you suggest. Your technique is better because you can
see what's going on with the solder before the heatshrink is applied.
By-in-large, I'll vote for the PIDG butt splice any day . . . The MAC
servos do present a unique problem . . . Why doesn't EVERYBODY on
this list write to MAC and suggest they upgrade to 22AWG leads. It's
not hard to do and it makes their product compatable with the majority
of wiring products out there. You guys are 1000+ strong . . . you
can make a difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Great news on the B&C Saga . . . |
I just got of the phone with Bill Bainbridge who recounted the day's
experiences with the FAA. Administrator Garvey called his office this
morning to see if all of the promised items and followup from the
FAA had been delivered to Bill's satisfaction. Bill was pleased to
report that things were in order. The long sought letter of appology
has been crafted and signed (Bill has an unofficial copy) and is
winding its way through the maze of approval required for such
weighty documents.
Watch AVWeb for next Monday. Liz Swaine (lady pilot and TV news
anchorperson) is doing a piece to recap the events since OSH where
Ms. Garvey first became aware of how badly her staff had bashed
B&C and Mr. Bainbridge. To her credit, she didn't let this issue
languish nor did she forget it. Watch our website for a posting
of relevant documents concerning the original issue and its
resolution.
It's to Bill's credit that he didn't roll over and take it in
the shorts like so many folk have felt compelled to do in the past.
One reason for posting the documents pertaining to this matter
is to allow the aviation community to hold future administrators
accountable to the standards Ms. Garvey has errected during
her term of office. Further, having these documents available
to the aviation public may well be the encouragement others need
to bear the burdens government can heap upon citizens even when
they've done nothing wrong.
This has been a GOOD day . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall mounted oil cooler |
Jim,
I elected to go with the method shown in the last RVator. I plan to mount
the oil cooler in the left cowl cheek. Rather than weld tabs to my engine
mount tubes I will use cushioned clamps and aluminum brackets. I needed the
limited firewall space for the Christen inverted system.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST soldering harness for transponder, encoder, and GPS
>
>I'm just beginning to work on my firewall mounted oil cooler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sabaughm(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nut Installation- another 2 cents worth |
>In the days before front wheel drive some car manufacturers on their
>front wheel bearings used a normal thin nut with a hardened washer
>between nut and bearing with a pressed steel shaped like the inside of
>a
>twelve sided socket with slots in the portion on the axel. This gave a
>fine adjustment.
>These pressing should be cheaply available from the automotive
>industry.
>This also means changing the number washers with the thin nut for each
>application is easy.
>
>P.S. Scott if you want a drawing email me offline, as an engineer
>sketches are easier than English.
>
>--
I know exactly the part you are talking about. The problem is that if I
remember correctly these are used on axles that protrude through the nut
with the hole for the pin on the out side of the nut.
Problem is... RV's use axle nuts that are closed off on the end so these
parts would be of no use.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sabaughm(at)Juno.com |
>During transition training with Mike Seager in the RV-6, I asked him
>about loops. He said "sure, you just keep pullin' about two G's all
>the way around". We didn't do any then; matter-o-fact I've never done
>a loop, but that's what I recall Mike saying. Sounds like that would
>make a big, lazy loop compared to what everyone else is saying.
>
>
I used to do big loops at only 2 G's in my RV-6A.
I think it is as much dependant on the particular RV you are flying as it
is how you are flying it (well not entirely but it is a factor).
If you are flying an RV that has a bit of a beer belly (spent all of your
beer money on do-dads and wing-dings for your airplane instead of beer)
you are going to suffer with having less "total performance".
Your airspeed will be used up much quicker going vertical and energy
management will be a little more critical. Factor in a heavy RV with a
lower HP engine and it gets even worse.
The best example of this I have ever seen was when Van used to do his
airshow routine in his RV-4 (light weight, constant speed prop, with full
inverted systems).
He was very good at doing a loop in a loop (a very large loop with a very
small loop done at the top of the large one).
Definitely the epitome of energy management.
Personal opinion comment follows....
I see so many posts on the list about doing aerobatics in RV's with
detailed descriptions of how the poster thinks they should be done, but
then they end with "but don't try this at home without proper dual
instruction first"
This seems counter productive to may and possibly dangerous.
It is possible to make it sound sooooo easy that many may anyway.
Now I know that this list is for passing along info and that it is good
for pilots that have had some of the suggested training to be able to
compare notes with others, but I am concerned that it may lead to a
frightening situation for some RV pilots.
I suppose the flight instruction by E-mail will never really be stopped
so I will just ad (with a pleading tone in my voice)
Please get some dual training in aerobatics before you try any maneuver
that would be considered an aerobatic maneuver as stipulated in the
FAR's.
Yes, RV's are a lot of fun to do aerobatics in, and with the proper
training they can do most maneuvers very well (in fact the airplanes are
probably more capable than most of us will ever be), but they are high
performance airplanes which means you can get into trouble very very
quickly, if you have not received proper training.
Please be careful, and have fun.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Mazda Powered Rv-6A Photos |
>For those of you interested, Don Mack has just posted some photos of
>the engine compartment of my Mazda Powered RV-6A on his web page
>www.flash.net/~donmack/.
Ed,
Thanks for passing along the pictures. I'll be more interested than most to
hear how the testing goes along.
I do have an oil question though. I noticed that you're using the engine on
it's side like Ross Aero does, and I guess you're using their oil tank
system as well. Do you (or anyone else that is reading this) happen to know
if the rotary can have an inverted oil system for negative G aerobatics?
Perhaps the Ross system is capable of this already. I just took some
aerobatic training at Mudry aviation, and now I think I might want to have
an inverted oil system to go along with inverted fuel pickup.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
Maybe there is a leak in the case or face glass.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VSI Indication
>
>
><< I am puzzled by the indication on my vertical velocity indicator.
> When I am flying straight and level (really!) the indicator is
> indicating approx 1000 fpm down. When I climb the indicator still
> indicates down (descent) (just not as much). My airspeed and altimeter
> are both connected to the same static source and Appear to be normal.
> It would appear (to one of limited knowledge about the VSI) that if the
> calibrated hole were plugged it should be registering zero. In fact the
> only way I can figure that the VSI would indicate down is if there is
> positive pressure in the static line. But, I would assume that would
> cause my airspeed and altimeter to read lower than actually and at least
> I do not see any indication of that.
>
> Any Ideas before I yank it out and take it to the Instrument shop??? >>
>
>Ed-
>
>When it's just sitting there on the ground what does the VSI read? Should
be
>zero. When you had your Mode C system calibrated, the shop would have
brought
>out an instrument that simulates the pressure changes that would occur at
>altitude. This equipment can be used to check the VSI also. It certainly
>sounds as your VSI has something wrong with it, if your info regarding the
ASI
>and Altimeter is accurate.
>
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
I was thinking of machine countersinking these
>25 holes in the spar and dimpling the skin to fit, but am concerned
>that countersinking the spar (it is only .040) will weaken the joint
>or cause the rivets to work loose over time. How have other builders
>been handling this problem? Am I missing something?
>
This is what is recommended.
Though you should only have to machine countersink the inboard most 7 or
8 holes. The ones that are the most restricted by the (can't remember
the part #) rear spar attach fitting plate. The ones that are next to
the forked part of the rear spar attach plate can be dimpled.
I thought it was in the plans or construction manual.
I will try to remember to to check and see that it is.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
Todd Whelan wrote:
> Final note -- I wish I could remember which type it was, but within the last
few
> months I read
> about an aircraft that experienced a loss of control during flight test and
> deployed an aircraft
> parachute system, but it wrapped around the airplane and couldn't save the test
> pilot.
You may be referring to the tragic loss of Jim Collie. Jim was testing a
new ultra-light motor glider of his design when a wing spar delaminated.
The BRS deployed properly but became entangled in the broken wing.
Jim was a very careful engineer of considerable talents. His loss
reminds us that we cannot guarantee a perfect safety record regardless
of flight/design skills and pre-flight preparation. The BRS is only one
potential component of flight safety; It is however, not perfect and
certainly should be regarded solely as a recourse of last resort. Those
who advocate chute deployment for "minor" circumstances such as fuel
starvation or being trapped on top of a cloud layer probably have not
considered the prospects of becoming a passenger on a windblown,
uncontrolled vehicle that is very rapidly headed for a violent contact
with earth. An impact of 26 ft/min HURTS! Add to this the possibility of
ending the journey in powerlines, upside in water, or some other
unpleasant location without the pilot's (passenger's?) choosing. BRS
states in their literature that they are only attempting to give the
pilot a shot at a "survivable" impact (the pilot's survival...forget
about the plane), certainly not a comfortable one.
The BRS debate will continue for as long as folks wish. It has raged in
the UL ranks for years, and the UL community has remained split on the
issue even though their aircraft are much more suited for BRS
installation than ours. This is a complex issue, much more complicated
than just floating down effortlessly as the chute billows comfortably
above you.
Sam Buchanan (have flown with and without a BRS)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
Raychem makes shield terminations and splices. They are kind of expensive
though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward |
> 2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
> pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
> off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
I purchased an outlet fitting for my fuel pump from Van's that had an 1/8"
npt thread manufactured on it, in order to plumb it to a fuel pressure
transducer. I mounted the fuel pressure transducer on the firewall with a #26
clamp. I installed a restrictor, and got the clamp idea from Tony Bengelis's
books on engines.
>
> 3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
> sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
> mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
> Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
> fasten it.
I mounted the oil pressure transducer the same way I mounted the fuel
transducer.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I want to connect two radio's together so that I can switch to either for
>transmit and receive, with the option to receive on both. I know audio
>panels are available commercially, but they usually contain Markers ADF etc
>which I do not need, not to mention the cost.
>The only problem I have encountered, is feeding the two audio outputs into
>one speaker at the same time. Some form of isolation circuit is required
>to prevent the two radios trying to drive each other backwards, so to
>speak.
Are you really considering a "speaker"? Don't know many homebuilts
with sufficiently low cabin noise to allow comfortable use of speakers.
Here's something I've used on several simple systems (two receivers).
Use a 47 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in series with EACH radio's headset
output to drive both headsets in paralle. This has the effect of cutting
output voltage from each receiver by 1/2 but it's generally made up
quite easily by turning up the volume. I genrally don't bother to put
switches in the headset lines from each radio and choose to control
each radio by setting its volume control.
Use a two-pole, two position switch to flip the microphone audio and
press-to-talk lines between the two transmitters. This is very easy
to implement and see how it works before you go out and buy/build
an isolation amplifier.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward |
>
>Fellow Builders,
>
>I have a few questions for everyone as I fiddle with
>all of the hook-ups on the engine. If you can help
>me out, I'd appreciate it.
>
>1) My engine, O-320-D2A has a fitting on top of the
>number 1 cylinder opposite of the normal primer
>port. My question is "Can I use this port (the top
>one) to pull my manifold pressure from?" The other
>cylinders do not have this port on top, only the one.
>
I used one of the primer ports that didn't have a primer line for the
manifold pressure.
>2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
>pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
>off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
I have to say that I hooked the pressure sender directly to the
carburator. I DON'T recommend this method as the vibrations from the
engine can break the sender off from the carb. This WILL make a very
bad day for you. What you should do is remotely mount the sender
using a fuel line from the carb to the sender.
>
>3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
>sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
>mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
>Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
>fasten it.
>
You can probably mount the oil press sender using adel clamps to hold
the oil line. This will hold the sender easily.
>Thanks folks.
>
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
>RV-6 - Engine compartment
>
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: trim tab range of movement |
>
>Listers;
>I am happy to report that RV-6 N827GB left my shop on 10-11-98 after almost
>six years of work and now is at the local grass strip in my hanger awaiting
>final details and a sign off by the FAA.
>One question: in final assembly I noticed that I have almost the same range of
>motion of my trim tab on the elevator as the ailerons require- 15 degrees down
>and about 30 degrees up. Is 15 down enough? I find nothing in the assembly
>manual that addresses range of travel for the trim tab.
>Thanks.
>Gary Bray
>Carmel, Maine
>hoping to beat the snow to first flight!
>
My RV-6 only needed about 1 to 5 degrees up for all flight conditions.
I'd suggest you fly the plane and find out what, if any, adjustments
you may need on the angle of incidence/attack of the horizontal stab.
Once you have the HS dialed in you will probably find that the trim
tab motion is more than you will ever need.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: trim tab range of movement |
<< I have almost the same range of
motion of my trim tab on the elevator as the ailerons require- 15 degrees
down
and about 30 degrees up. Is 15 down enough? >>
The tab on my 6A never needs to go more than 1/4" up or down (from ref
neutral) at the TE to trim for all normal conditions.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | 6A nose gear stresses 101 |
Shot peening is basicly sandblasting with round steel shot.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A nose gear stresses 101
Date: 14-10-98 20:58
> I am very concerned that people might ignore the potential benefits of
> shot peening based upon some uninformed opinions which are broadcast on
> the web. I'm not trying to sell shot peening - but it works.
Pardon my ignorance but................................just what exactly is
shot peening?
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall mounted oil cooler |
>>I elected to go with the method shown in the last RVator. I plan to
mount the oil cooler in the left cowl cheek. Rather than weld tabs to
my engine mount tubes I will use cushioned clamps and aluminum
brackets. I needed the limited firewall space for the Christen inverted
system.<<
I gave that idea some thought. I'm just afraid of hanging heavy stuff
on the tubes. Of course, that could be silly; but, I feel more
comfortable not doing it. It sure looked good, though!
Thanks!
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Mazda Powered Rv-6A Photos |
Hi Rusty,
Thanks for the comments on my project. Yes, I am using the Ross oil
pan, however, I recently discovered a problem with that. It turns out
that with the engine on its side the oil level with with 7 quarts (1 for
cooler, one for filter and five for the pan) raises the oil level
sufficiently in the pan to keep the rotors oil outlet opening
continously bathed in oil. One my engine above 5000 rpm the rotors
cause the oil to churn so much that it blows oil out the crankcase
breather and cause oil pressure to flucuate 30 psi. There is a relative
simply fix - add an extention to the oil pan to keep the oil below the
block and extend the oil pick up to keep it below the new oil level.
My engine would only reach 5000 rpm on the ground with teh 68x72 prop so
I did not realize this was a problem (should have in hindsight) until I
got up some airspeed an unloaded the prop so the engine could rev
higher. So definetly keep that in mind.
In the racing circuits some folks use a dry sump which the 13B adapts to
quite readly, however that then means you have to come up with the
mechanics to drive the sump. That would give you an inverted oil
system. On the other hand, if you are just going to be doing basic
level aerobatics with no prolonged inverted flight, the current system
would do just fine.
In intend to lower the oil level by two quarts which should drop the
level below the rotors and then see what happens at higher rpm. But,
this is the kind of thing you sign up for if you go the alternative
engine route. Its really a mini R&D project, so be prepared for it to
take longer, cost more than you had planned. If you are a "Gear Head"
then its just all part of the fun and challenge, if however, you are
mainly interested in getting an airplane into the air, I strongly
recommend a good used lycoming.
4th flight coming up this weekend, going to take it to a local fly in
and show of my baby.
Ed
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>
> >For those of you interested, Don Mack has just posted some photos of
> >the engine compartment of my Mazda Powered RV-6A on his web page
> >www.flash.net/~donmack/.
>
> Ed,
>
> Thanks for passing along the pictures. I'll be more interested than most to
> hear how the testing goes along.
>
> I do have an oil question though. I noticed that you're using the engine on
> it's side like Ross Aero does, and I guess you're using their oil tank
> system as well. Do you (or anyone else that is reading this) happen to know
> if the rotary can have an inverted oil system for negative G aerobatics?
> Perhaps the Ross system is capable of this already. I just took some
> aerobatic training at Mudry aviation, and now I think I might want to have
> an inverted oil system to go along with inverted fuel pickup.
>
> Good luck, and keep us posted.
> Rusty
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall mounted oil cooler |
<< I needed the limited firewall space for the Christen inverted
system.<< >>
Doug Dodge makes a very high quality system also. The breather can is quite a
bit smaller, and will fit these cramped engine nacelles slightly easier. His
cost is lower than the FAA approved Christen system.....
I found out about this after I had installed my Christen system, too. :-(
Check six!
Mark
HR2 295 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pipe Thread Compounds |
In a message dated 10/14/98 1:27:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Vanremog(at)aol.com
writes:
<< -The old standby, Permatex gasket sealer #2 (flexible), will also work well
for everything. >>
Yes, but remember that Permatex is not for use with alcohol, if you are using
auto gas that may contain alcohol, DON'T use Permatex #2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One Flight Test View on BRSs |
IRT the chute opening time. Your statement is correct, but it is that
opening, "shock load" that normally rights the airplane. We use them for
drag more than anything. In other words, to get the pointy end going
forward and down (normally a recoverable mode). They are NOT designed to
bring the airplane safely to rest on the ground. IRT the openning time, we
don't use sliders but do reef the high speed chutes (make smaller). BUT, I
know of a high speed chute deployment at Vtrue > 400 knots on a 10,000#
airplane. Also as a side note, we release the chute after it has done its
job of righting the aircraft.
>Final note -- I wish I could remember which type it was, but within the
last few
>months I read about an aircraft that experienced a loss of control during
flight test and
>deployed an aircraft parachute system, but it wrapped around the airplane
and couldn't save the test
>pilot.
This is not an abnormal condition. If something is so wrong to deploy a
chute, it's probably not travelling in straight and level flight.
>IRT -8 proto accident . . . You don't think so? How come? Roll
>rate?
Yes, roll rate (and position) with a piece of the wing now missing and time
from 1000' agl to the ground.
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Homemade pressure bleeder was bleeding brakes |
Listers,
I was recently directed to the web site below. It shows a photo of the
homemade brake pressure bleeder described below. I got this from an
automotive email list for Mercedes owners. It would be a simple matter
of changing the resevoir cap to adapt this idea to your RV.
Charlie Kuss
RV8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
> I got very good results by using a simple pressure pot
consisting of a 16 oz
> model aircraft fuel tank filled with Hyd fluid. Connect
to the brake,
> pressurize to a few psi to get good flow. A tube from the
reservoir to catch
> the overflow. First trys left some air in the system.
The solution was to
> establish some flow and then pump the brake, very slowly.
I have dual brakes
> on the -6, and after one try, pumping both brakes on the
circuit gave a
> completely filled system.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:56:42 -0400
From: Ted Grozier <grozier(at)fas.harvard.edu>
Subject: [MB] brake bleeding
If y'all are lying on your backs bleeding your own brakes, you can
easily
make a pressure bleeder, which makes the job so easy (and, for the
perverse
few, even fun) that you'll do it every year. I have put some pictures
on-line: http://www.fas.harvard.edu/~grozier/bleeder.jpg and
.../cap.jpg,
.../top.jpg
My homemade EziBleed:
The main bottle is a Nalgene 32oz wide-mouth camping bottle, the white
plastic kind, not the grey lexan. The lexan cracks under pressure, at
least mine did. Atop the cap, to one side, sits a screw-on tire valve.
On
the other side, a hole is drilled for a rubber grommet into which slides
1/4 plastic tubing. The fit must be tight. Soapy water or spit helps
here. The tube goes to the bottom of the bottle, like a straw. The
other
end of the tube (it is ~2.5 ft long) attaches with the same grommet to
the
brake resevoir cap. Go to the dealer and buy a new cap -- it is an
upgraded part anyway. Doctor the old one: remove the small one-way
diaphram on the underside of the cap. Seal the small hole with a hot
screwdriver. Then drill in the center for the grommet. I think it was
17/64 but I can't remember. Best way is to use one of those drill
gauges
with all the holes and try for the tightest fit.
With a turkey baster, suck all the fluid out of the resevoir. Fill
almost
to the max mark with new fluid. (a good DOT 4 like Castrol LMA)
Pour about 3/4 liter new brake fluid into the bottle, tighten the lid,
and
attach the resevoir cap. With a bicycle pump, slowly add pressure,
checking for leaks. Use a good pressure gauge and do not exceed 15psi.
I
used a 6" hand pump and it took about 25 strokes. Only a small amount
of
fluid will travel from the bottle to the resevoir since the resevoir
will
hold pressure. Now go to the right rear wheel and open the bleed screw,
using rubber tubing to channel the fluid into a collection container.
As
the fluid level drops in the resevoir, new fluid will travel from the
bottle to the resevoir. The level in the resevoir stays constant.
Using
the markings on the Nalgene bottle, let at least 100ml flush out each
brake, but do not stop until the fluid coming out of the bleed screw is
clean and bubble-free. Check the bottle pressure and maintain 15psi.
Resist the temptation to increase the pressure beyond 15psi; each wheel
only takes 3min or so and spilled brake fluid is a pain.
Bleed the other brakes in this order: right rear, left rear, right
front,
left front; that is, working towards the MC. If you have installed a
new
master cylinder, bleed the MC with it's bleed screw. Also remember to
only
release the bottle pressure at the valve; do not unscrew either cap or
you're in for a nasty surprise.
You can flush hydraulic clutch circuits, too.
Good luck to all and change that brake fluid! "Annually, preferably in
the
spring."
Ted 83 240D 298K, nice firm pedal.
You can get the EEZI-Bleed, by Gunson Ltd., from John Abbott, Auto
Expert
Products, 2574 NW 29th Drive, Boca Raton, FL 33434, (561) 483-7898.
http://members.aol.com/eezibleed/, the correct number is 800-795-6958,
or
you can e-mail John at eezibleed(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall mounted oil cooler |
Jim & Listers,
I mounted my oil cooler (a rather large C-182 heavy unit) to the right
side motor mount area (in front & below the cabin air box on the firewall)
using 1/8" angle alum and Adel clamps. Upper cowl air is routed from the
upper rear baffle area (above & behind Cyl #3) through a 3" hose to a home
made fiberglass plenum on the oil cooler.
The plenum on the oil cooler was formed using builders insulation foam
(from home depot) shaped to what I thought was about the right shape. The
hose attachment area was formed using a spray can cover. The shaped foam was
then covered with plaster, sanded and coated with mold release. I put on two
layers of glass. When the glass dried, I riveted in a metal sleeve for the
final hose connection as the spray can cover diameter plus glass thickness
was just a little oversized for the hose.
This whole process took two evenings of work. The result is an oil cooler
mounted in a position that will not cause baffle breakage.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Sears [SMTP:sears(at)searnet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 1998 9:47 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Firewall mounted oil cooler
>
>
>
> >>I elected to go with the method shown in the last RVator. I plan to
> mount the oil cooler in the left cowl cheek. Rather than weld tabs to
> my engine mount tubes I will use cushioned clamps and aluminum
> brackets. I needed the limited firewall space for the Christen inverted
> system.<<
>
> I gave that idea some thought. I'm just afraid of hanging heavy stuff
> on the tubes. Of course, that could be silly; but, I feel more
> comfortable not doing it. It sure looked good, though!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim in KY
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward |
Since oil weighs less than water and a 1 foot difference in location makes
about 0.4 of a pound difference, worrying about sender location is overkill.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Firewall Forward
>
>
><< I have a few questions for everyone as I fiddle with
> all of the hook-ups on the engine. If you can help
> me out, I'd appreciate it.
>
> 1) My engine, O-320-D2A has a fitting on top of the
> number 1 cylinder opposite of the normal primer
> port. My question is "Can I use this port (the top
> one) to pull my manifold pressure from?" The other
> cylinders do not have this port on top, only the one.
>
>It sounds like you have one cyl with this port drilled. We use the primer
port
>on the rear right cyl, to keep the hose shortest. It really doesn't matter
>which port or cyl you use, but some are easier to hook up
>
> 2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
> pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
> off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
>
>Remote. The sender could break at its threads if left to hang that way. Use
>the fuel pump fitting from Van's that has the 1/4" hole drilled in it, and
run
>a hose to the sender (hung on the engine mount).
>
> 3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
> sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
> mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
> Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
> fasten it.
>
>A correctly sized non-cushioned (grounding) adel clamp, attaching the
sender
>to the firewall where it's easy to wire, would work fine. You could use the
>same approach for the fuel sender, but it really should be mounted at the
same
>height as the port it reads from on carbureted engines (to read a fairly
close
>to correct pressure).
>
>Neither of these lines really needs firesleeving- there is no flow, only
>pressure. Use the correct restrictor orfices at the pressure sources, too.
>
>Keep working- it's really worth it.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
> >>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Aaron,
>
> The .040 rear wing spar is more than thick enough to countersink for
>those last few holes.
>
> Although too late for this situation, I did not rivet the wing
>skeleton together until after the skins were drilled, everything
>deburred, dimpled and primed. Keeping things together with clecoes until
>everything is done (as much as possible) has allowed me to back out of
>problems spots more than once.
>
>Carl Froehlich
>RV-8A (skinning wings)
>Vienna, VA
On the other hand, I learned a lesson on my elevators to _always_ rivet
the skeleton before drilling he skins! The clecos allow _some_ movement
and I found that after drilling the skins to a clecoed skeleton, then
riveting the skeleton, the holes on the skins were off just a tad. Not
much in most areas, but a tad in others (root rib) which says they didn't
rivet together the same as they were clecoed despite using the technique
of remove a celco, replace with rivet, all the way along.
Haven't done the wings yet, but I'll be keeping the elevator fiasco in
mind.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp details, waiting on wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
Ed,
Sounds like you have a leak in the case of the VSI, probably around the front
glass. Remove the face and try reseating the gasket- a little RTV might help.
Good Luck
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
Sherman, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VSI Indication |
Thanks Bill,
Sounds like something easy enough to do, appreciate the info.
Ed
RV6ator(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Ed,
>
> Sounds like you have a leak Remove the face and try reseating the gasket- a little
RTV might help.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Gummo <Thomas(at)EFEP.org> |
| Subject: | aerobatics (loops) |
Most loops look more like an egg with the bigger part down.
Before the start of a loop, gravity is offset by the wing pulling one G.
As the loop starts, you pull three G's. One G is still required to
offset the earths gavity. Therefore, the plane turns with the effect of
only two G's. At the 90 degree climb point, gravity and drag work
together and it no longer has any effect in the turn so all three G's
are now turning the plane. As you go upside down, gravity is pulling
you in the direction you want to go and adds to the three G's pulling by
the wing so you effectively are turning with four G's. (Guess, why
Fighter Pilots want to be above you?) At the 90 degree dive point,
gravity works with thrust and the plane agains turns with three G's.
So without accounting for the constantly changing airspeed, you have to
fight gravity at the bottom and will have a larger turn radius and
gravity helps at the top and causes a smaller turn radius.
Using a constant three G loop, there will be three G's on the engine and
engine mount at all times. A G is a G is a G. What you see on the G
meter or feel by the seat of your pants is what the plane sees too.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
starting the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Pressure Gauge Venting |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
I have a combo Manifold Pressure and Fuel Pressure gauge, that also has a
third hook-up for Vent. Where does this go? Does raw fuel ever come out
of this vent? Should it just go thru the firewall and vent overboard?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
In a message dated 10/14/98 10:39:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< . Why doesn't EVERYBODY on
this list write to MAC and suggest they upgrade to 22AWG leads. >>
This is a very good idea. There are several easy ways to make the leads work
for you as is. One way is to use a Circular Area Units chart. For instance,
a raychem moisture proof splice(blue-16ga) per the chart, can be crimped with
one 20ga wire in one side because the CAU's of a 20ga wire fall within the
limitations of the splice. Two 22ga wires can be placed on the other side.
They also fall within the limitations. If you need to "take up space" to meet
the CAU requirements, you can use a wire loop, or, if you need less CAU's, you
can use one wire and cap it on the end.
I do, however, agree that it would be pretty easy for them to use another size
of wire for their pigtails. What are they using? 24??
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
I am taking this opportunity to disseminate some information about the
failures to those concerned about same.
Please understand that this is not official from Van's and I did not
ask permission to speak for them, but it bothers me that some think the
worst of Van and the staff due to the rumor mill.
I spoke to the office today about another matter and then asked
about the gear legs because I want to build a 6A. (They are running about
58% as opposed to 6s in demand). It was said that they are very much aware
of the heat on the net and that their supplier is doing extensive tests
involving changes and duty cycles, which takes a long time to study. There
is a notice being drafted to be sent out to every 6A owner in the near
future.
Finally, yes, the failures seem to be date/batch related.
One more finally, 100 hr checks will catch any potential problems before
they become catastrophic since the cracks are not sudden in nature. Lots of
warning.
I knew Van's was a group of people with integrity and concern about
their customer/fliers and it is just unfortunate that broadcast messages
are not sent out quickly to update all concerns. They are not sitting idle.
That phone is going all the time......Hope this helps some out there.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Pressure Bleeders |
Why go to all of the trouble to make something that you will only use once
or twice? We used to use a pump oil can and a short length of clear tubing
connected to the bleeder at the caliper and a rag at the master cyl to catch
the vented fluid, it doesnt take much to bleed the system on a plane so not
much is spilled especily if the master cylinder is empty when you start as
it fills the line will be cleared of all air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
<199810140419.XAA04923@dfw-ix14.ix.netcom.com>
>
>
>>I'd use a butt splice. One wire in one side, two in the other, then crimp
>>away.
>
> Agreed
>
>>Or if you're not afraid to solder.... If you're going to splice onto a
> Actually, a company called Raychem (and probably others) make some
> very specialized solder sleeves that are installed with a heat gun.
> They're commonly used to attach ground jumpers to the braided wires
> of a shielded conductor. I've seen them used to create the kind of
> butt joints you suggest. Your technique is better because you can
> see what's going on with the solder before the heatshrink is applied.
Raychem!! That was it! I couldn't remember the name. I kept wanting to
say Raytheon. That would be for the sidewinder missiles. That comes much
later in construction.
If I remember correctly these little beauties have a bead of solder in the
middle and some adhesive that make for a very strong bond. We used them in
Trident II missles. They ought to be good enough for a homebuilt airplane.
Probably pretty expensive, though.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The people who are bashing Van on the net should look in there own back
yard and keep it to themselves as Corsair is right and a fix will come soon
and an answer just as in the 3 and N58s case, they only have so much time
and will not give out any information untill they know it is as correct as
possible, not off the cuff stuff that others do.
Long live Dick and his crew!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | silent participent |
Listers;
I've been monitoring all the dialog back and forth and I want to say that
although it is very time consuming reading all the email, I have found the
information absolutely invaluable.
I can't use the information yet, but I will and I would like to thank
everyone for all the great tips. (I'm stashing them in a folder and will be
accessing them as I proceed)
Question:
I am considering doing the unthinkable (according to Van) and that is
building a center console that extends back to the Electric Flap motor
housing. I would like to put my throttle, mix and constant speed controls
in the center a-la- piper or boeing 747 etc.
Does anyone know where I can get a more "sexy" quadrant than the ones in
Vans catalog or Spruce?
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - controls/empennage mounting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Belt Size |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Does anyone know what size alternator belt an 0-360-A1A with a liteweight
alternator takes? Could not find any belts at all in the ACS catalog. Can
these be bought at the local auto store? Or must you use Lycoming belts?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A nose gear stresses 101 |
In the old days more work was done with a ball peen hammer. Today, as then,
sometimes you need to work a piece of metal by hitting it with a hammer. If you
use the flat side of a ball peen hammer you are hammer forging. If you use the
ball side, you are "peening". "Shot" means small round pellets, like those in a
shot gun. Thus 'shot peening"
is a method where you impact the surface with shot. It has an effect similar to
polishing.
Joe Walker
Shopping for panel stuff
RV6 Houston
V. E. Welch wrote:
>
> > I am very concerned that people might ignore the potential benefits of
> > shot peening based upon some uninformed opinions which are broadcast on
> > the web. I'm not trying to sell shot peening - but it works.
>
> Pardon my ignorance but................................just what exactly is
> shot peening?
>
> Vince
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Power Cable Size |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am confused about the cable gauge to use for the power cable
going from the alternator to the bus bar. Vans says 8 gauge shielded or
unshielded, other books say 10-12 ga. shielded. 8 ga. shielded is $4.60
per ft! Whereas 12 ga. shielded is .95 per ft. I have an internally
regulated 40 amp alternator, and will have a light VFR load. Is 12 ga.
shielded adequate?
Von Alexander (Buried in the wiring maze)
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall mounted oil cooler |
Thanks for the responses to my question! There were some good
ones!
Because I felt uncomfortable with the mounting on the engine mount
tubes, I've decided to go with the cooler mounted on the lower left
side of the firewall as suggested in the instructions. I'll be using a plate
of .063 sheet (as suggested in one of the notes) that will be tied into
the firewall at the angle stock that makes the "X" behind the firewall
and the angle at the side. That should give me a solid platform for the
thing. I'll be using .063 angles to hold it, to include a couple of braces
angled down. Except for the two braces, the supports will be riveted,
instead of bolted, to the firewall. I don't think I'll need to take them off.
Well, I hope I won't, anyway. :-) I'm also going to include a trap door
so I can control the heat. I don't have a temp control valve for the oil.
So far, the progress is slow; but, I'm am making progress. Again,
thanks!
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | fuel smell in cabin |
I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains.
I don't start to notice it until after about 1/2 hour flying. Its not
real bad, but is still unacceptable and needs to be fixed.
Does anybody have any magic tricks to locate a small leak?
One thought is that I do have a leaky rivit on the bottom of the left
tank. There will always be a small drop or two of blue dye around it. It
needs to be fixed and I was planning on doing it this winter. I'm
wondering if its possible that such a small leak at the tip end of the
tank can be streaming fuel into the cockpit. I certainly can't see it
(or stains leading inwards).
Anyway, I can't believe that such a small amount of external seepage can
find its way all the way into the cockpit and still produce an odor; so
I still think I need to look inside. Any suggestions on how?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder trim tab?? |
I am interrested in building a controlable trim tab into my -8 rudder.
Any ideas and/or experiences would be appreciated.
LKD (empenage done building rudder over new)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear legs |
In a message dated 10/15/98 10:30:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tinckler(at)axionet.com writes:
<< They are not sitting idle.
That phone is going all the time......Hope this helps some out there.....
>>
I am sure that they have been quite busy answering questions about the nose-
gear failures. Hopefully, these issues will be studied/resolved in the short
term, so that the friendly folks at Van's can spend more time working on the
RV-Series 2000(RV's for the next century). Also, they can spend more time
getting replacement parts to those who goofed the first time.(Who?Me?)
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
In a message dated 10/15/98 11:12:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)jps.net writes:
<< If I remember correctly these little beauties have a bead of solder in the
middle and some adhesive that make for a very strong bond. We used them in
Trident II missles. They ought to be good enough for a homebuilt airplane.
>>
Yes, they work well. Those of you contemplating using them, however, need to
be aware of one thing. They are approved for low temperature areas only. I
would use them anywhere but under the cowling. The same goes for the moisture
proof inline splices.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 H2AD oil access door |
Fellow Listers:
One of our local builders has asked me to post this question on the list...
He is building an RV-4 with an 0320-H2AD. He says that the oil dipstick is
directly on the top of the engine perfectly centered over where the rear
engine baffle will run. This would expose the front half of the dipstick
access door to high pressure forward of the rear baffle and very high air
loads from inside the cowling. How have any H2AD builder's approached this
problem? He saws this problem would also exist for -6 builders using this
engine.
Thanks,
Doug
============
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Service |
In a message dated 10/15/98 11:14:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
linbb(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< and an answer just as in the 3 and N58s case, >>
This is true. We should be glad that Richard is "not" just another
politician.
Take comfort in knowing that he will not just "tell us what we wish to hear".
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator, Part 1 |
I took advantage of a $40 OSH discount and purchased a Lift Reserve
Indicator (look it up with a search engine using that name). After a few
weeks back-log, I received the unit.
It was well made (the indicator housing is about 3/16" aluminum) and all
fittings, and plenty of tubing were supplied.
I installed the indicator on the glare shield in an RV-6A with a tip-up
canopy. That necessitated trimming the meter housing to avoid interference
with the canopy plexiglass. Fortunately the housing is extra long, and can
be cut quite a bit. The probe was installed in the left wing using the
bell-crank inspection plate for mounting. That had to be beefed up a bit: I
used .050 aluminum plate.
Overall the installation took me about 7 to 8 hours (I'm slow.) The
calibration in flight will have to wait a few days for calm weather.
Calibration will entail going to altitude, using full power, and hauling
back until no altitude is being gained or lost, and VSI shows zero. If I
was lucky and got the probe angle set corectly the indicator should just
show that no more wing lift was available. If I am unlucky, trial and error
changes will have to be made in the probe angle with flights made to check
for the above results.
Overall, the quality of the instrument is very good. Service was good.
Price of the instrument is rather dear (normally $750 plus $35 s/h) BUT if
it saves my butt once I'll consider it worthwhile, even if nobody else
does!
Part two with results will be posted after calibration and flight testing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
a good Gates belt from the National Air Parts Association (NAPA) will do
fine. if you use metric sized belts, there is a wider length selection
(2.54 cm to the inch). So you get 2 and 1/2 times as many different lengths.
-----Original Message-----
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Thursday, October 15, 1998 2:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Belt Size
>
>Does anyone know what size alternator belt an 0-360-A1A with a liteweight
>alternator takes? Could not find any belts at all in the ACS catalog. Can
>these be bought at the local auto store? Or must you use Lycoming belts?
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Bleeders |
> Why go to all of the trouble to make something that you will only use once
>or twice? We used to use a pump oil can and a short length of clear tubing
>connected to the bleeder at the caliper and a rag at the master cyl to catch
>the vented fluid, it doesnt take much to bleed the system on a plane so not
>much is spilled especily if the master cylinder is empty when you start as
>it fills the line will be cleared of all air.
>
>
I agree 100%. Another easy way to avoid the spill is to remove the vent
plug on the fluid reservoir and replace it with a spare AN816 fitting. Slip
a piece of plastic tubing over the other end of the fitting and direct the
tube to a container to catch the overflow. The clear plastic tubing gives
you the added advantage of being able to see when the air bubbles stop
coming out of the overflow.
Mark Nielsen
Rv-6; 288 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Power Cable Size |
t the cable gauge to use for the power cable
> going from the alternator to the bus bar. Vans says 8 gauge shielded or
>unshielded, other books say 10-12 ga. shielded. 8 ga. shielded is $4.60
>per ft! Whereas 12 ga. shielded is .95 per ft. I have an internally
>regulated 40 amp alternator, and will have a light VFR load. Is 12 ga.
>shielded adequate?
Shielding is not necessary for the alternator b-lead. Folk have been
doing that since it's shown on so many Cessna wiring diagrams.
I was there when they started shielding the b-leads as part of
an ADF installation option . . . frankly, I don't think it did
ANY measureable good and in retrospect, given the testing I witnessed,
I'll suggest that shielding was added 'cause it seemed like a good
idea at the time.
The wire needs to be rated for the continuous output rating of the
alternator and tailored for potential cooling problems under the
cowl. See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/wiresize.pdf
A 40 amp machine could probably get by with 8AWG wire . . given the
short run of wire and the hot environment, 6AWG wouldn't hurt.
The b-lead protection for a 40 A alternator should be no less than
50 amps with 60 even better . . . this is one device in the Cessnas
DESIGNED to nuisance trip. A 40A alternator charging a dead battery
on a cold day can put out 50 amps.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Archives - Neat, Neat, Neat |
Well,
I've been on the list for three or four years and have done some searching
of the archives(using a couple of the engines - with varying degrees of
success), but today I had a couple of questions about my F-608 bulkhead
height and alignment. Didn't figure I'd bother everyone with another post
that had probably aleady been discussed. So I decided to try the new search
engine. Whew, I quickly found several previous post by the familiar names
and answered all of my questions.
The new search engine is really neat. It allows you to scroll/tab through
all the messages containing your search words. It is GREAT! EASY! FAST!
even with my dinasour computer. Kudos to Matt and one more reason Van's
community resources have to be the best in the homebuilt arena.
Thanks everyone!
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
Based on my own personal experience:
> Does anyone know what size alternator belt an 0-360-A1A with a liteweight
> alternator takes? Could not find any belts at all in the ACS catalog. Can
> these be bought at the local auto store? Or must you use Lycoming belts?
Take the alternator or a putty imprint of the pulley groove to an auto parts
store and get a Gates or Dayton belt to fit.
Experimental belt, right? I put a Gates auto store belt on my Debonair as the
Continental (3X$) belts were wearing out too fast. It lasted till a sharp eyed
IA made me replace it. I firmly believe that Continental gets rejects from
Gates or cheapos from Taiwan. You can see the difference!
Millions of autos run alternators etc at higher speeds with great success.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- May have found a huge hangar!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
> I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
> source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains.
See if the primer fittings are weeping. Also it could simply be the fuel
selector valve that has a small weep at the stem but doesn't show. I know
of 2 like this . I had the experience and since I had Mogas in one tank, it
really stunk and had me worried (good thing no smokers on board).
Eventually, it went away.
No smell at all now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Check that Carb... too lean? |
I talked to Pete Nielson at Precision Airmotive tech support about the
fluctuating fuel flow I'm seeing in my new O-360 A1A at idle. It turns
out the flow fluctuations are probably no big deal (more testing to
follow).
During that conversation Mr Nielson told me that he believes the
MA4-5 carbeurator (part number 10-3878) that came with my O-360
(from Van's) is too lean for the RVs (something about the induction
system on the RV, coupled with the use of the reusable air filter). He
indicated a richer carb (MA4-5 part number 10-4164-1) is what he
believes should be used in the RVs. He indicated he's discussed this
matter with Bill Benedict a couple of times, including recently
regarding an RV-4 that's running too lean.
According to Mr Nielson, one should test the engine at several power
settings (every 200 rpm or so up to full power, static and in flight) and
be sure that the carb is runing rich enough that you can lean the carb
and produce a 75-100 rpm rise and a 150 degree (F) EGT rise. If you
can't, the carb is too lean and needs to be swapped for a richer carb, or
modified. Precision has a conversion kit, which lists for $240.
I asked Van's about this, and got the following response: "At this
writing, we have only about 1-2% of the aircraft that seem to be
on the lean side and so it has not even been an issue here beyond
helping those that individually have the problem to solve it"
I doubt I'd have thought to make this check, so I'm passing the info on
to the group. In 6 months or so I hope to be flying and checking this
myself.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 H2AD oil access door |
Doug,
I have a H2AD in my -6. Here is the way I did it. Use screws and
nutplates across the top of the cowling to attach it to the fuselage. It will
be impossible to insert the hinge pins. On the baffling, as it approaches the
center or the engine in the rear, make some 90 degree bends in it so that it
comes foreward of the dipstick. The dipstick is not in a pressurized area
then. I made the access door very small--approx 21/2 inches square. I did run
into a problem that I did not anticipate; because the access door must be so
close to centerline (the inner edge of mine is on centerline), the structural
integrity of the cowling is lost. It will sag or develop a dip at that point.
I had to use a long piece of 3/4 inch angle to reinforce the cowling to
eliminate the sagging. It would have been a lot easier if I had anticipated
the problem when initially fitting the short piece of hinge for the door. I
attached the 3/4 angle to the inside of the cowling with proseal and -3 rivets
and it works fine. If your friend has any questions he can call me at 850-537
-6034 or 850-609-3175.
John Henley, N6LD, 100 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
Andy,
I would think that the fuel smell is coming from the leaking rivit. The
air from the wings is drawn into the cockpit via the aileron tube opening. The
only time I have ever smelled fuel in my -6 was when I had ill fitting fuel
caps and a small amt of fuel ran from the cap to the main spar area. Until I
discovered where the smell was coming from, I was ready to make an emergency
landing.
John Henley, N6LD, 100 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
Re: Raychem ZAP splice
> svanarts(at)jps.net writes:
>
> If I remember correctly these little beauties have a bead of solder
in the
> middle and some adhesive that make for a very strong bond. We used
them in
> Trident II missles. They ought to be good enough for a homebuilt
airplane.
I do not have a single splice in my flying RV-6. I do have a lot of
AMP (Molex) connectors that join wires. A terminal block can also be
used.
A "homemade" ZAP splice can be made by striping apx. 3/8" of wire from
each end to be joined. Tin both wires with solder. Slip CLEAR heat
shrink over one wire. Place the wires together like they are one
continuous wire with the tinned ends over lapping. Heat the solder
ends together. When finished, you should be able to see the strands
in the wire with a fillet between the two. Clean the flux from the
solder joint with IPA. (Isopropyl Alcohol) An "ACID" brush works
well with the IPA. Cut the bristles on the brush to 1/4". Slide the
clear heat shrink over the solder joint and heat with a heat gun. The
clear heat shrink is used so that you can inspect the joint at
anytime. We use splices like this on test equipment but NEVER on a
spacecraft. On the rare occasion that a spacecraft has splices, they
are always Raychem.
If you check AC 43.13A, the FAA uses something like this but they have
a "hook" on each wire before fusing together. This gives a mechanical
joint that does not rely on the solder for strength. The solder just
insures a good electrical joint.
The only bad thing about solder in airplanes is that it makes the wire
hard and brittle. With vibration, this increase the possibility of a
"break" (open circuit). The heat shrink helps as a strain relief to
reduce the chance of breaking. If splicing wires in a bundle,
remember to stagger them so that the bulge in the cable is spread out
over a larger area.
Hope this is understandable to the electrically challenged. Sorry for
being so long winded but this is "my area of expertise".
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
---VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know what size alternator belt an 0-360-A1A with a
liteweight
> alternator takes? Could not find any belts at all in the ACS
catalog. Can
> these be bought at the local auto store? Or must you use Lycoming
belts?
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
I took the "Starter Ring Gear" (it has the pulley on it) to Pep Boys
to match up to a Dayco belt. I purchased about 4 belts that I though
might work. Kept one and took the other 3 back in exchange for one
spare. So far, I have 255 hours on it and no visible wear. I have
also not re-tighten it since it was installed and it is still perfect.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
<< Does anyone know what size alternator belt an O-360-A1A with a lightweight
alternator takes? Could not find any belts at all in the ACS catalog. Can
these be bought at the local auto store? Or must you use Lycoming belts? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Power Cable Size |
<< I am confused about the cable gauge to use for the power cable
going from the alternator to the bus bar.>>
It is better to run the alternator B-lead thru a 60-80A fuse/breaker/link then
connect to the switched side of the master contactor (electrically the same
point as the input to the starter contactor). Then take an identical AWG wire
from this same point (switched side of master contactor) directly to the main
bus. This is per Bob Nuckolls, and will reduce noise to your panel. If done
this way, you do not need to shield either of these wire runs.
<< Vans says 8 gauge shielded or
unshielded, other books say 10-12 ga. shielded. I have an internally
regulated 40 amp alternator, and will have a light VFR load. Is 12 ga.
shielded adequate? >>
No. Refer to AC43.13-1A. You should use 8 AWG to have a comfortable safety
band. 10 AWG would be the absolute minimum and would need to be in free air
(not bundled).
It sounds as though you need to get and read the AeroElectric Connection.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: silent participant |
For what it's worth, a friend of mine has a RV-6A with a throttle quadrant
mounted to the center pedestal. I thought it was a pretty neat deal until
I flew my -6 with the normal control knobs and was amazed at the difference
in room. Several people I have flown with also made the comment it looked
much bigger inside (including an owner on the -6A).
Marcus
> Question:
> I am considering doing the unthinkable (according to Van) and that is
> building a center console that extends back to the Electric Flap motor
> housing. I would like to put my throttle, mix and constant speed controls
> in the center a-la- piper or boeing 747 etc.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a more "sexy" quadrant than the ones in
> Vans catalog or Spruce?
> Dan Wiesel
> RV6a QB - controls/empennage mounting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
In a message dated 10/15/98 6:47:57 Central Daylight Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
<< May have found a huge hangar! >>
Well now, that's great news. Hope it works out for you.
By the way (and this is a non-A&P thing to say) I agree with you on the
alternator drive belts. Used to be a time, but those days are long gone.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Great news on the B&C Saga . . . |
Did those @#$%^ s ever apologize to Bob Hoover?
>
>I just got of the phone with Bill Bainbridge. Administrator Garvey called
his office this
>morning. The long sought letter of appology
>has been crafted and signed (Bill has an unofficial copy).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: silent participent |
Dan,
You can build your own sexy box for Van's plain quadrant. I plan to do that
on my RV-4 to include a custom throttle grip with radio flip/flop and
transmit buttons. It should be a relatively simple task.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>Does anyone know where I can get a more "sexy" quadrant than the ones in
>Vans catalog or Spruce?
>Dan Wiesel
>RV6a QB - controls/empennage mounting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 H2AD oil access door |
| From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
writes:
>>..He is building an RV-4 with an 0320-H2AD. He says that the oil
dipstick is
>>directly on the top of the engine perfectly centered over where the
rear
>>engine baffle will run. This would expose the front half of the
dipstick
>>access door to high pressure forward of the rear baffle and very high
air
>>loads from inside the cowling. How have any H2AD builder's approached
this
>>problem?....
Doug,
I have an RV-6 with an O320-H2AD installed and about ready to fly. Also
there is an RV-6A with the same installation flying out of our airport
since May. The rear baffle on the engine jogs forward around the front
of the dipstick. There is enough room for an adequate door that is
entirely aft of the baffle. Mine is about 5" square centered over the
dipstick. Remember that the rubber seal material bends forward away from
the dipstick. I would recommend that the door not be cut until the
baffles are installed and don't worry if the door needs to be in a curved
part of the cowling.
Regards,
Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward |
> 2) What is the best way to connect up the fuel
> pressure sender? Should I plumb some fittings right
> off of the carb? Should I mount the sender remote?
>
> 3) Where is the best place to mount the oil pressure
> sender. It is fairly large and cylindrical. If you
> mount it to the engine mount, how did you fasten it?
> Did you mount it on the firewall? Again, how did you
> fasten it.
I made a bracket on the FW for both out of 1-1/2 inch aluminum angle. Plumb
them remotely. If you hang them straight onto a fitting they eventually break
off. The fitting Van sells for the engine-driven fuel pump includes an
optional 1/8 in pipe thread port that makes a convenient fuel pressure line
hookup point.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
>I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
>source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains.
>I don't start to notice it until after about 1/2 hour flying. Its not
>real bad, but is still unacceptable and needs to be fixed.
>
>Does anybody have any magic tricks to locate a small leak?
Try to wipe the lines, fittings or whatever with a white absorbent rag. I
have searched long and hard visually and couldn't find a sign of a leak, but
when wiping the line a trace of the fuel dye will show up very clearly.
Dan Morris
RV6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McLaughlin" <johnmc49(at)ecity.net> |
| Subject: | RV's invited to Des Moines area in September 99. |
Mark your 1999 calendars for a midwest airshow and gathering of RV's.
We'll be organizing and RV type get together with free tickets for
homebuilt arrivals. This is the press release going to the local Des
October 10, 1998 - October 15, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fp