RV-Archive.digest.vol-fq
October 15, 1998 - October 20, 1998
Moines, IA media. Any questions, please get in touch with me at
johnmc49(at)ecity.net
John McLaughlin
Chief Meteorologist
KCCI Des Moines
RV6A N888WX reserved
For Immediate Release
Greater Des Moines "Wings, Wheels & Water Festival" Slated for Ankeny, Iowa
Exposition Grounds in '99.
September 25-26, 1999 will bring a family fun festival to the Ankeny
Exposition Park. The event is unique because it combines a professional
airshow, car, motorcycle and boat show, and a display of recreational
vehicles with a multitude of other family events. Organizer Scott "Sky"
Smith of Ankeny says, "The Wings, Wheels and Water Festival is aimed at
providing something for everyone in central Iowa, plus we want to attract
folks from around the Midwest. That's why in addition to the featured
events, we are planning a charity fun run/walk, hot air balloons, kites and
crafts, a flea market, and a disc golf course. We are even talking about a
family-oriented music concert"
Smith, an aviation journalist, says there's a lot of transportation-related
companies in Iowa that people might not be aware of. "We've all heard
about the corporate jet being built in Ames," says Smith, "but how about
the twin-engine Angel aircraft from Orange City, companies in DeSoto and
the Quad Cities building experimental planes, or the new Polaris motorcycle
being built in Spirit Lake. This event will showcase these and other Iowa
products."
When asked how the "Wings, Wheels and Water Festival" is different from the
Aviation Expo which has been held in Ankeny previously, Smith says, "for
starters, you'll see dozens of real airplanes on static display, including
loud and fast jet-powered planes performing in the airshow. Corporate
sponsors will get a once in a lifetime opportunity to ride in these jet
fighters and former military trainers. Local flight instructors will also
be giving airplane rides and drawing for 10 free introductory flight
lessons to be given away each day. Awards are being offered for pilots who
have constructed their own "homebuilt" planes or restored an antique
aircraft. Plus, there will be dozens of cars, boats, motorcycles and RV's
to look at. We feel the way to have a successful event is truly make it a
"festival" and not just an airshow." Smith is being assisted in organizing
the show by KCCI-TV meteorologist and pilot John McLaughlin. McLaughlin
notes that "Smith is on the right track with this event. He's visited
every major airshow in the country this year and I believe he's found the
right recipe for getting people back to the Expo site."
Those interested in volunteering or assisting with planning the "Wings,
Wheels and Water Festival can contact Scott Smith by email at
skysmith(at)mindspring.com, or call Skysmith Inc. at 515-289-1439.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
Belts are every inch at your local NAPA store
Pat N598EP RV-6A 0-360 Light Weight Alt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
I experienced this problem and findly discovered that the angle on one of my
vents was just a little off and at certian speeds the vent would actuly siphon
fuel overboard and create the fuel smell in the cabin..
Pat N598EP RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
>
>In a message dated 10/15/98 11:12:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>svanarts(at)jps.net writes:
>
><< If I remember correctly these little beauties have a bead of solder in the
> middle and some adhesive that make for a very strong bond. We used them in
> Trident II missles. They ought to be good enough for a homebuilt airplane.
>>>
>Yes, they work well. Those of you contemplating using them, however, need to
>be aware of one thing. They are approved for low temperature areas only. I
>would use them anywhere but under the cowling. The same goes for the
moisture
>proof inline splices.
>Jim Nice
Yes that solder melts at relatively low temperatures as does the adhesive.
But...nothing cooler than the inside of a cold war era underwater launched
ballistic missile.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Nose gear failures |
Have been following the comments on the nose gear failures the past few
days and being a RV6A builder myself, decided to call Van's for their
input. They told me that there will be a letter going out next week to all
who have purchased RV6A kits bringing them up to date on this matter. As a
recent subscriber to the RVlist I would like to relay some of my feelings
about it . I can see this is a great way for all of us to keep in touch and
has lots of potential to help each other not only in the building process
but just as importantly in the flying and safety end of it.
Were I am running into trouble with it is the number of postings. I can
only devote so much time each day to it and as I see it as long as one is a
subscriber you are committed whether you have the time or not.
Since I made the commitment to join the RV fraternity with the purchase of
my first kit in 1988 my experience has been the highlight of my flying
career. Here I am with what has turned out to be probably the finest two
place aircraft available today with my investment protected by it's high
resale value. Along with this knowing that in Van's Aircraft we have a man
who has dedicated his whole life to giving us these fine aircraft at a
price that no one has even come close to matching. All of this plus having
made a lot of friends in the RV group gives me some warm feelings inside.
It disturbs me when I see or hear criticism that is possibly unjustified. I
have known Van for some ten years now and have had many discussions on
safety related matters and can assure you that he is one of the most safety
conscious persons I have met in the industry.
As we all know anything mechanical can develope problems and a lot of times
there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. To my knowledge Van has never
backed away from a problem and given time has been able to resolve them.
I feel we need to be careful what we say on the list so as not to create
any dissension among us or errode the feeling of camaraderie we have among
ourselves and Van's group. We need to support Van's as best we can to make
sure it remains the leader in the kit industry for our own good.
The purppose of the RVlist has been well served by the reports on the gear
failures bringing it to the attention of everyone. Anyone uncomfortable
with these reports could immediately do a inspection pending Van's
investigation.
With repect to everyone involved.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
You can buy metric so they are every centimeter.
-----Original Message-----
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com <PASSPAT(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 15, 1998 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator Belt Size
>
>Belts are every inch at your local NAPA store
>
> Pat N598EP RV-6A 0-360 Light Weight Alt
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil screen flakes continued..... |
First off, thanks to everyone who replied on and off the list. My engine has
1650 hours since new. I bought it used, it was still flying on a Pitts. I put
desiccant plugs in the cylinders and sprayed them down with LPS 2, and sealed
up every opening. It was stored in the garage for 18 months before starting it
up last March. By July, I had put 25 hours on it, so I changed the oil and
remote mounted filter. I forgot to collect a sample for analysis. The suction
screen and filter failed to turn up any foreign objects. So I went 50 hours
until this oil change. The engine is using a quart of oil every 6 hours, I'm
using Phillips X/C 20W/50 oil.
This time I did collect a sample, just before I discovered the 5 small
flakes in the suction screen. The flakes are ferrous (they attract to a
magnet). They are very small, just big enough to get caught in the screen. I
got a call tonight from the lab doing the analysis, they said that they found
no abnormal indications in the sample. After showing the offending material to
several knowledgeable A&P's, the general consensus is that I ought to give it
another 25 hours and see if anything else turns up. This is the first time
that I've gotten to be an owner/operator, instead of just a renter. It seems
to be a learn as you go process......
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil screen flakes continued..... |
First off, thanks to everyone who replied on and off the list. My engine has
1650 hours since new. I bought it used, it was still flying on a Pitts. I put
desiccant plugs in the cylinders and sprayed them down with LPS 2, and sealed
up every opening. It was stored in the garage for 18 months before starting it
up last March. By July, I had put 25 hours on it, so I changed the oil and
remote mounted filter. I forgot to collect a sample for analysis. The suction
screen and filter failed to turn up any foreign objects. So I went 50 hours
until this oil change. The engine is using a quart of oil every 6 hours, I'm
using Phillips X/C 20W/50 oil.
This time I did collect a sample, just before I discovered the 5 small
flakes in the suction screen. The flakes are ferrous (they attract to a
magnet). They are very small, just big enough to get caught in the screen. I
got a call tonight from the lab doing the analysis, they said that they found
no abnormal indications in the sample. After showing the offending material to
several knowledgeable A&P's, the general consensus is that I ought to give it
another 25 hours and see if anything else turns up. This is the first time
that I've gotten to be an owner/operator, instead of just a renter. It seems
to be a learn as you go process......
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Check that Carb... too lean? |
<< I talked to Pete Nielson at Precision Airmotive tech support about the
fluctuating fuel flow I'm seeing in my new O-360 A1A at idle. It turns
out the flow fluctuations are probably no big deal (more testing to
follow).
During that conversation Mr Nielson told me that he believes the
MA4-5 carbeurator (part number 10-3878) that came with my O-360
(from Van's) is too lean for the RVs (something about the induction
system on the RV, coupled with the use of the reusable air filter). >>
This is interesting, because I asked the very same question on someone at
Precision over a year ago and they said that the 10-3878 I have was correct
for the RV with Van's airbox and K&N filter. Now, if I had a nickel for every
bum piece of information I've gotten from manufacturers about their products
over the years, I'd be retired, but I think that my carburetor IS working
properly.
FTB (29 inHg @ 2690 rpm) I burn 15 gph full rich. I am able to properly lean
(can't see the rpm change because I have a constant speed prop) during cruise
as I have good visibility of this with the VM1000 fuel flow system. All flows
are controllable in the range of the Lycoming charts based on percent power.
I needed to lean the idle mixture about 1/2 turn in to prevent excessive plug
fouling.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
> source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains.
> I don't start to notice it until after about 1/2 hour flying. Its not
> real bad, but is still unacceptable and needs to be fixed.
>
> Does anybody have any magic tricks to locate a small leak?
>
Andy,
Could it be fumes escaping from vent line into cockpit. Maybe a crack
or loose fitting??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear failures |
>
>Have been following the comments on the nose gear failures the past few
>days and being a RV6A builder myself, decided to call Van's for their
>input. They told me that there will be a letter going out next week to all
>who have purchased RV6A kits bringing them up to date on this matter. As a
>recent subscriber to the RVlist I would like to relay some of my feelings
>about it . I can see this is a great way for all of us to keep in touch and
>has lots of potential to help each other not only in the building process
>but just as importantly in the flying and safety end of it.
>
>Were I am running into trouble with it is the number of postings. I can
>only devote so much time each day to it and as I see it as long as one is a
>subscriber you are committed whether you have the time or not.
>
>Since I made the commitment to join the RV fraternity with the purchase of
>my first kit in 1988 my experience has been the highlight of my flying
>career. Here I am with what has turned out to be probably the finest two
>place aircraft available today with my investment protected by it's high
>resale value. Along with this knowing that in Van's Aircraft we have a man
>who has dedicated his whole life to giving us these fine aircraft at a
>price that no one has even come close to matching. All of this plus having
>made a lot of friends in the RV group gives me some warm feelings inside.
>
>It disturbs me when I see or hear criticism that is possibly unjustified. I
>have known Van for some ten years now and have had many discussions on
>safety related matters and can assure you that he is one of the most safety
>conscious persons I have met in the industry.
>
>As we all know anything mechanical can develope problems and a lot of times
>there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. To my knowledge Van has never
>backed away from a problem and given time has been able to resolve them.
>
>I feel we need to be careful what we say on the list so as not to create
>any dissension among us or errode the feeling of camaraderie we have among
>ourselves and Van's group. We need to support Van's as best we can to make
>sure it remains the leader in the kit industry for our own good.
>
>The purppose of the RVlist has been well served by the reports on the gear
>failures bringing it to the attention of everyone. Anyone uncomfortable
>with these reports could immediately do a inspection pending Van's
>investigation.
>
>With repect to everyone involved.
>
>Eustace Bowhay
>
I hesitate to even try to add to Eustace's post. I've known Van and
Eustace (and his friend and mine, Ken Hoshowski) for at least 10
years. I respect and admire them very much.
I, too, am somewhat dismayed at the occasional accusatory posts about
faults in the -6A nosegear and other areas. I recall a few years ago
when the floor mounted rudder pedals demonstrated a propensity for
breaking at the cable arm weld. In fact, one of our local -6 owners
had a ground loop because of that fault.
Van, within two weeks of hearing about that problem, sent out a letter
to all -6 builders and flyers detailing what was the problem and
offered to fix, at no charge, their rudder assembly. His actions were
proactive and positive.
Van is an engineer and, like any competent engineer should, will study
the problem and only then offer a solution.
I am sure that Van will find a solution to the problem of the -6A
nosegear. Until he tells us what he believes is the best course to
follow we should exercise our rights and obligations as experimental
aircraft builders and flyers and inspect our aircraft for any
problems.
We need to take ownership of our responsibilitys as aircraft builders.
We built these planes and we fly them.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Great news on the B&C Saga . . . |
>
>Did those @#$%^ s ever apologize to Bob Hoover?
>
> Don't know . . . I do have a cpy of a leter written
by an English neurosurgeon who examined Bob Hoover
on behalf of the Australians who were working to issue
Bob a license from down under. The letter is lengthy
but the bottom line is that the good doctor could find
no basis for the FAA actions and was basically recommending
that the Ausies go ahead and issue Bob's license.
Inerestingly enough, our rules for license holders from
other countries would have allowed Bob to resume his shows
in the US . . . as I recall, he declined that privilage.
He flew lots of shows in Aus but waited for an American
ticket to resume his activities in the US.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Nose gear failures |
Have been following the comments on the nose gear failures of the past few
days and being a RV6A builder myself, decided to call Van's for their
input. They told me that there will be a letter going out next week to all
who have purchased RV6A kits bringing them up to date on this matter.
As a recent subscriber to the RVlist I would like to relay some of my
feelings about it. This is a great way for all of us to keep in touch and
has lots of potential to help each other not only in the building process
but just as importantly in the flying and safety end of it.
Were I am running into trouble with it is the number of postings. I can
only devote so much time each day to it and as I see it as long as one is a
subscriber you are committed whether you have the time or not.
Since I made the commitment to join the RV fraternity with the purchase of
my first kit in 1988 my experirce has been the highlight of my flying
career. Here I am with what has turned out to be probably the finest two
place aircraft available today with my investment protected by it's high
resale value. Along with this, knowing that in Van's Aircraft we have a man
who has dedicated his whole life to giving us these fine aircraft at a
price that no one has even come close to matching. All of this plus having
made a lot of friends in the RV group gives me some warm feelings inside.
It disturbs me when I see or hear criricism that is possibly unjustified. I
have known Van for some ten years now and have had many dicussions on
safety related matters and can assure you that he is one of the most safety
conscious persons I have met in the industry.
As we all know anything mechanical can develope problems and a lot of times
there is more to it than meets the eye. To my knowlege Van has never backed
away from a problem and given time has been able to resolve them.
I feel we need to be careful what we say on the list so as not to create
any dissension among us or errode the feeling of camaraderie we have among
ourselves and Van's as group. We need to support Van's as best we can to
make sure it remains the leader in the kit industry for our own good.
The purpose of the RVlist has been well served by the reports on the gear
failures, bringing it to the attention of everyone. Anyone uncomfortable
with these reports could immediately do a inspection pending Van's
investigation.
With repect to everyone involved
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Center Console |
Hello List,
RV-6A Center Console
For those interested, I have a center console in my RV-6A and it works
great.
Anyone interested in drawings please let me know and I'll get some to you.
Photographs of my console can be seen at:-
http://netnow.micron.net/~rgreener
Regards,
Rob Greener, N418RL (Spam Can) Flying and it's FUN.
>Question:
>I am considering doing the unthinkable (according to Van) and that is
>building a center console that extends back to the Electric Flap motor
>housing. I would like to put my throttle, mix and constant speed controls
>in the center a-la- piper or boeing 747 etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "STEVE WHITE" <SGWHITE(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 H2AD oil access door |
Doug,
I have just finished the cowl and baffle on my 6A with an H2AD, I imagine
there are many ways to solve this problem. I modified the rear right baffle
supplied in Van's O-320 baffle kit so that it has a straight verticle wall,
(this also required the modification of the rear right side baffle). This
change moves the rear baffle foward enough to place the oil access door
behind it. I also made a very small 4"X 4" door. The H2AD engine mount on
the 6A allows very little room for me to get my chubby hands in to pull
hinge pins so I opted for flush camlocks. Hope this helps.
Steve White
RV6A S/N 24000
wiring, and building house with hanger.
----------
> From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 H2AD oil access door
> Date: Thursday, October 15, 1998 12:25 PM
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local builders has asked me to post this question on the
list...
> He is building an RV-4 with an 0320-H2AD. He says that the oil dipstick
is
> directly on the top of the engine perfectly centered over where the rear
> engine baffle will run. This would expose the front half of the dipstick
> access door to high pressure forward of the rear baffle and very high air
> loads from inside the cowling. How have any H2AD builder's approached
this
> problem? He saws this problem would also exist for -6 builders using
this
> engine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
> ============
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacBooze(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting/Drilling RV-8 Tank |
RV-8 Builders,
As pointed out in the Geo. Orndorf tape, the outboard edge of the tank
skin
was about 1/16" to long. It took many fittings and filing to get the skin to
fit evenly with the outboard leading edge skin. Very time consuming but well
worth the effort.
Happiness was seeing the blue centerlines through the PP skin. Also,using
a
threaded rod through the rib tooling holes worked very well. To remove the rod
and nuts, I used an electric drill in reverse and on a slow speed. It saved
time.
Thanks to George and Van. They make a rookie builder look good.
FWIW,
Greg
-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
Corsair,
I use MOGAS and had a similar problem. Mine was trace to the AN
fittings attaching internal fuel lines to selector valve. I could not
visually detect any leaking. However, a clean tissue wiped around each
fitting revealed that one indeed had a very small (but, smelly) leak.
Ed
Corsair wrote:
>
>
> > I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
> > source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains.
>
> See if the primer fittings are weeping. Also it could simply be the fuel
> selector valve that has a small weep at the stem but doesn't show. I know
> of 2 like this . I had the experience and since I had Mogas in one tank, it
> really stunk and had me worried (good thing no smokers on board).
> Eventually, it went away.
> No smell at all now.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers -
I ran into a sticky situation last evening as I was mounting the canopy rail end
of the tip- up canopy lift struts. The kit called for two 8-32" nuts and washers
to be installed in behind the canopy rail. As you all know that rail folds back
on itself and is very difficult to even get your fingers into the area to hold
the
nut. I solved the dilemma by inserting a thread through the outer part of the hole
and then tying the washer and nut to the end that came out from behind the rail.
I slid the knot around the nut until the knot was near the hole of the washer.
I
then pulled on the thread and the nut and washer were pulled into position. It
was
then a simple matter to insert the CS screw into the hole and start the nut and
washer. The thread is small enough to just be broken off when the screw has
started sufficiently. Getting a wrench in there was still tough but do-able. The
tip- canopy works great too.
I hope that these little tip will save some time for others. It sure seems
simple but then I suppose that most solutions look simple after the problem is
solved :-)
DGM RV-6 Now working on the front trim for the canopy.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
Andy,
Check the fuel vent lines where they go through the cockpit and out through
the floorboards. Excessive fuel venting on the belly may be what you are
smelling?
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
Sherman, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
OK, here's one for the books. Just a couple of days ago, I needed to
buy some .125" angle to remake two of the RV8 gear box floor angles.
(Clamp those suckers on TIGHT before drilling...or they'll drift on ya).
I went to a local metals supplier, known to have everything in
stock..even aircraft grade metals. Well, I made the "error" of
mentioning the word "airplane"....and you would not BELIEVE the cold
stare I got. It was almost like I'd peed in this guys bowl of Cheerios
or sumthin. I was basically shown the door. And offered no help
whatsoever. So much for trying to support the local economy.
So, moral of this story: when shopping for materials from other than
known aircraft suppliers....make up a story about what the parts are
going to be used for! They'll certainly believe you....doesn't everybody
use aircraft grade material to fix lawn chairs and fences?
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
fuse skins on, *&*$#% gearboxes almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabaniss" <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear failures |
<< We need to take ownership of our responsibilitys as aircraft builders.
We built these planes and we fly them.
John Ammeter >>
Just to add $.02: we should also fully insure them in light of this
possibility. I for one sleep better knowing that if my nose gear does break,
my ins. co. will foot the majority of the repair costs for the engine and prop
tear-down, etc. I had liability-only coverage on my first (cheap-o)
homebuilt, but went with full coverage this time around. It's not all that
much more, and kind of like a transponder: it doesn't make the plane fly one
bit better, but if you should ever really need it, it's too late if you don't
already have it!
-BB RV-6A
quite happy with the SkySmith insurance rates.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Thanks to all who replied. Overwelming recommendation for a transceiver was
Apollo SL-60 GPS-COM. Unfortunately this is out of my price range and I
already have a good handheld GPS to use. My first choice, Icom A200, was
also highly recommended by several and I think this is what I will be getting.
Transponder choices were not clear cut at all. Most responders reported
problems with Terra and Bendix/King KT-76A (the only 2 transponder types
anyone reported using in their RVs). I saw in Trade a Plane that Garmin is
selling a transponder also. Does anyone know anything about it? Will
probably go with the Terra because of size unless they are out of the GA
business by the time Im ready to buy or unless sombody persuades me otherwise.
On intercomms again there was an overwelming consensus, PS engineering .
Not the cheapest but apparently worth the $. Looks like that will probably
be my choice.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
Try flying with less fuel. Keep it down an inch and see if the smell goes
away.
Are you returning fuel to one tank while drawing from another?
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com <RV6ator(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel smell in cabin
>
>Andy,
>
>Check the fuel vent lines where they go through the cockpit and out through
>the floorboards. Excessive fuel venting on the belly may be what you are
>smelling?
>
>Regards,
>
>Bill Mahoney
>RV-6 N747W
>Sherman, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Hey Brian;
Those gear boxes ARE fun, aren't they? Talk about a test of your
patience!(and your 4-letter vocabulary). Hang in there, it will be over
before ya know it! Regarding buying local supplies, yes, I learned a
long time ago, leave the word 'airplane' out of it, whatever you are
buying or having done.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
ffling, doesn't it? How about giving me a
sequence that has worked for you guys?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
fOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Cabaniss <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 10:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST
>
>
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Removing Fuel Senders |
Dear Listers:
Checked resistance on my fuel senders and found right wing reads 263
ohms at empty and 51 ohms at 3/4's full and also at full. Left tank sender
reads 251 ohms at empty and 64 ohms at 3/4's full and full. Apparently,
rigging of SW sender is wrong.
It appears that no matter what gauge I use on this flying -6 I will
always have 3/4's indication at anything over 3/4's full. This is okay as I
have EI fuel flow which I use almost exclusively.
Van's advaises that I will have to remove sender from wing tank and
that, to do this, I will have to remove fuel tank from wing. This is very
unattractive possibility as the plane is painted and, to do so, would really
tear up the paint job.
Can I -- or has anyone -- remove fuel senders without removing fuel
tank. I know I can get a small screw driver in between the fuselage and the
wing tank to remove the fuel sender cover, but will the rest of the sender
come out?
Thanks for your help.
Bill Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Check that Carb... too lean? |
<< RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis"
I talked to Pete Nielson at Precision Airmotive tech support
During that conversation Mr Nielson told me that he believes the
MA4-5 carbeurator (part number 10-3878) that came with my O-360
(from Van's) is too lean for the RVs (something about the induction
system on the RV, coupled with the use of the reusable air filter). He
indicated a richer carb (MA4-5 part number 10-4164-1) is what he
believes should be used in the RVs. He indicated he's discussed this
matter with Bill Benedict a couple of times, including recently
regarding an RV-4 that's running too lean.
be sure that the carb is runing rich enough that you can lean the carb
and produce a 75-100 rpm rise and a 150 degree (F) EGT rise. If you
can't, the carb is too lean and needs to be swapped for a richer carb, or
modified. Precision has a conversion kit, which lists for $240.
I asked Van's about this, and got the following response: "At this
writing, we have only about 1-2% of the aircraft that seem to be
on the lean side and so it has not even been an issue here beyond
helping those that individually have the problem to solve it"
Tim: please refer to the archives for tons of useful info on this very
subject, discussed as recently as this summer when I had the lean carb
syndrome on my O-320 with the old Cessna carburetor. In particular, Gary
Corde's posts were helpful.
I ended up drilling out the main jet from a # 43 drill size to a # 37. this
made a world of difference, but probably went too far. Now I have no more rpm
surging in cruise, and make better takeoff power, but I have to lean about 8
turns on the ground for best results. I lean about 4 turns for T/O at 3000 ft
density alt. The EGT rise I can get at cruise went from something like 90
degrees to over 200 deg. If I had it to do over, I'd buy the kit from
Precision, so as not to jeopardize the certification of my engine, or else
drill to # 38. I think for my application, # 37 is just too big of a hole,
but not worth going back and changing at this point. I've learned the nuances
of flying a rich carb, and prefer this to a lean one!
For further enlightenment, I suggest you send Gary Corde (RV6junkie(at)aol.com)
an email. He's been through the school of experience on lean carburetors...
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt Size |
My 0360 A1A with vans alternator uses a NAPA #09033 Premium XL belt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
I always tell 'em "it's for my 1936 CASE tractor!
wishing for a inexpensive rv3
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> OK, here's one for the books. Just a couple of days ago, I needed to
> buy some .125" angle to remake two of the RV8 gear box floor angles.
> (Clamp those suckers on TIGHT before drilling...or they'll drift on ya).
> I went to a local metals supplier, known to have everything in
> stock..even aircraft grade metals. Well, I made the "error" of
> mentioning the word "airplane"....and you would not BELIEVE the cold
> stare I got. It was almost like I'd peed in this guys bowl of Cheerios
> or sumthin. I was basically shown the door. And offered no help
> whatsoever. So much for trying to support the local economy.
>
> So, moral of this story: when shopping for materials from other than
> known aircraft suppliers....make up a story about what the parts are
> going to be used for! They'll certainly believe you....doesn't everybody
> use aircraft grade material to fix lawn chairs and fences?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> fuse skins on, *&*$#% gearboxes almost done
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear failures |
This horse is dead folks.
________________________________________________________________________________
1. The nose gear strut failed;
2. Van's is bad;
3. Van's is good;
4. if you inspect your nose gear strut on regular intervals you can detect
the problem before it becomes a statistic;
5. Van's will get us more information soon.
Now let's get back to useful stuff ... like flogging me for being a fan of
multi-vis oils. ;^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil screen flakes continued..... |
>
> This time I did collect a sample, just before I discovered the 5 small
>flakes in the suction screen. The flakes are ferrous (they attract to a
>magnet). They are very small, just big enough to get caught in the screen. I
>got a call tonight from the lab doing the analysis, they said that they found
>no abnormal indications in the sample.
Cam/cam follower (lifter body) spalling tends to produce particulate
matter, i.e. flakes or chunks, that are too large to remain in suspension
and thus don't show up in an oil analysis. You tend to only find it during
the screen/filter examination.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder Tips |
>I ran into a sticky situation last evening as I was mounting the canopy
rail end
>of the tip- up canopy lift struts. The kit called for two 8-32" nuts and
washers
>to be installed in behind the canopy rail. As you all know that rail folds
back
>on itself and is very difficult to even get your fingers into the area to
hold the
>nut. I solved the dilemma by inserting a thread through the outer part of
the hole
>and then tying the washer and nut to the end that came out from behind the
rail.
Or, you could match drill the holes in the strut attach piece to a piece
of .032" scrap and mount a couple of nutplates to it. It's easy to hold the
scrap piece with 2 nutplates up under the canopy rail and screw the fixture on.
Bob Skinner RV-6 450 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
<< > I've got a fuel odor in the cabin of my 6A that I just can't find the
> source of. All the fittings are dry. There are no tell tale blue stains. >>
I could be from your vent lines. Does it only happen with full tanks or after
a roll or loop?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS!
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS!
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS!
Mike Thoupson
Austin, TX
-6 emp details, waiting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Klixon Breakers Deal! |
Listers...FWI...I just bought 20 Klixon breakers for $7.50 each from B&B
Aircraft Supplies....these normally sell for $20/each from Spruce, Chief,
etc...
He is also a great source for AN-bolts, rivets, screws, washers, etc..Their
hardware prices are much cheaper than Van's..
Call Dan
B&B Aircraft Supplies
913-884-5930
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit Almost Here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
I wonder just what, exactly, he's trying to say....
---Robert Cabaniss wrote:
>
>
>
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
>In looking ahead, I would like to know the order I should follow with
>regards to engine baffling.
This worked for me:
cowl first
baffling second
control cables third
hoses and plumbing next
wiring last
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
>
> >
> >
> >
> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
> >
> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
"COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
You think it'll work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear failures |
| From: | planejoe(at)Juno.com (Joe D Wiza) |
Eustace
I agree with your coment reef nose gear. How is everything going
I'm still in TN planing on back to FL in two weeks and back to work on
RV. Any word on used woodword prop gover yet. Hope to be flying my RV up
your way in a year.
planejoe(at)juno.com
Joe/Penni Wiza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
Von,
Did you get my note on the governor? If not, I can re-send it.
Shelby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builder Tips |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing access panel nutplates hit aileron gusset. |
I am having difficulty lining up my wing access panel so it doesn't interfere
with the aileron gussetts. I cut the hole in the bottom wing skin and
fabricated the reinforcing ring and saw that the nutplates to hold on the
cover jutted into the previously installed aileron gussetts and also the ring
will have to cross the gussett and my problem is how to install ring and cover
without the bump being caused by the underlying gussett. any help greatly
appreciated. JFW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Check that Carb... too lean? |
Tim, exchange the nozzle assy. in the carb you have to: 47-755
The one you have now is 47-739 . Fuel burn will be one gal. more per hr.
RV-6 N7470U B.W.G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
In a message dated 10/15/98 7:29:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< The only bad thing about solder in airplanes is that it makes the wire
hard and brittle. >>
One word of advice for those who need to solder but lack experience. If at
all possible, look for 63/37 solder instead of 60/40. 63/37 has a liquid
state, and a solid state, but no plastic state. This is a great help in
keeping folks with the jitters from soldering what is known as a cold joint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA |
>
>Hey Brian;
>Those gear boxes ARE fun, aren't they? Talk about a test of your
>patience!(and your 4-letter vocabulary). Hang in there, it will be over
>before ya know it! Regarding buying local supplies, yes, I learned a
>long time ago, leave the word 'airplane' out of it, whatever you are
>buying or having done.
>
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
Hey Von,
Man, you said it...GOOD *&$^^% GRIEF!! Those gear boxes are a royal pain
in the keester!! It has taught me one thing though, how to rivet
left-handed. It's all in how you hold your tongue, of course. ;p
I am going to start leaving the "airplane" word out of any discussion
when it comes to buying anything locally. That guy's look was downright
sinister...just incredible. How anyone could be so unwilling to accept
CASH ON THE SPOT...even at a premium, is beyond me. Hell, I'd even sign
a release form if they insisted. Oh well, such is life in the 90's.
Meanwhile, only a few more rivets left and that canoe lookin' thing goes
upright for the first time in it's life! Finally..something to sit in
and make airplane...OOPS...."winged vehicle" noises in.
Keep up the good work, you're my inspiration!
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
In a message dated 10/16/98 8:30:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I was basically shown the door. >>
Brian
Why don't you tell us the name of this pillar of the community? That way,
we'll know where "not" to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
Just about as quick and easy!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST
>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>
>I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
>
> "COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
>
>You think it'll work?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
| From: | planejoe(at)Juno.com (Joe D Wiza) |
I'm trying!!!!!!!!
I'm trying!!!!!!!!
I'm trying!!!!!!!!
writes:
>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>
>I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
>
> "COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
>
>You think it'll work?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
In a message dated 10/16/98 2:51:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
adrianchick(at)home.com writes:
<< I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
"COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
You think it'll work? >>
It will work just as well as if you were trying to unsubscribe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ***Governor*** |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Shelby;
Yes I got your note and am doing some checking around on both your unit
as well as prices. Will let you know.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA |
>
><< I was basically shown the door. >>
>Brian
>Why don't you tell us the name of this pillar of the community? That
way,
>we'll know where "not" to go.
Well, I'll only state that it is a large supplier in Albuquerque, NM.
I've learned recently that almost anything can be taken the wrong way,
so I can't comfortably divulge any further details. I don't think it is
a nationwide vendor, however, so unless you live here (and if so...SPEAK
UP! I can use some company) you'll not encounter them. Just
remember...keep the discussion centered around your lawn mower, or
fixing the BBQ grill. No, wait...the grill might tip over and smash your
toe...or....???
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
>
>>
>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>
>I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
>
> "COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
>
>You think it'll work?
>
Don't be silly Adrian.
We all know the proper command is
BUILD YOURSELF!!!!
BUILD YOURSELF!!!!!!
BUILD YOURSELF!!!!!!
I let y'all know what it's like at the funny farm. Sorry for wasting
Matt's bandwidth. We now return you to your regularly scheduled list.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
I'll try to hold the sarcasm to a minimum.
It's irritating when someone posts a "remove" message & obviously hasn't read the
directions. But in the light of very recent requests to limit irrelevant postings,
& requests to reply only to the sender when replies won't benefit the whole list,
how many self-righteous listers forced all of us to read & delete messages instead
of one honest mistake?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
>
>
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
I hope all these people that can not read the direction at the bottom of
EVERY posting are not trying to build an Airplane!!!!!!!! They will surly
have problems with a construction manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel smell in cabin |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Andy,
Check carefully around your fuel selector valve, they are a common source
of leaks. It only takes a tiny drop of fuel to make a big smell.
Regards,
Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Mosur" <jmosur(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | First flight RV 6 Mazda powered C-GAPF |
Friday Oct 16 after 2 yrs and 11 months of building we finally flew C-GAPF
RV 6 at Brampton
flying club. The test pilot was Dick Van Fleet a very cool guy, Jim Mosur
the builder was a basket case.
The flight lasted 1.6 hrs. Dicks only complaint was a left wing drop ,
other than that handling was very smooth.
Power on and power off stalls were as advertized.
Coolant temp constant 185 F.
Oil temp was rather high 220 F at cruise and started to rise at high power
settings. I think I have found the reason
for the high oil temp, the oil bypass in the Mazda oil cooler appears to be
shot, I will replace this valve tomorrow
morning and we will try another flight in the afternoon.
Top speed reached was 160 mph. sans gear leg and wheel fairing
Prop: Aymar Demuth 68 x 74
Engine: Mazda 13B mounted on its side.
Fuel: Auto gas pre mixed
All in all a good test flight for the pilot and like giving birth to the
builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ***Governor*** |
If you can supply a model number, I might have one very reasonable.
-----Original Message-----
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ***Governor***
>
>Shelby;
>Yes I got your note and am doing some checking around on both your unit
>as well as prices. Will let you know.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing access panel nutplates hit aileron gusset. |
JFW,
Because you mentioned a reinforcing ring, I'll assume this is an older 6 or 4
and not a pre-punch. If you already installed the lower gusset and already cut
your bottom skin and ring you'll need to work with it. Does your gusset go
just
under the ring? If so, shim with a piece of .040 the part of the gusset
that the
ring does not cover. Then where the nutplates interfere with the gusset,
remove
them from the back side of the ring and re-mount them on the back side of the
gusset. Make sense? If not let me know off line, I'll give you my phone
number.
Good luck...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Wings almost done
>my problem is how to install ring and cover without the bump being caused
>by the underlying gussett. any help greatly appreciated. JFW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
Needed one more then it works... you only had 3!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe D Wiza <planejoe(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, October 16, 1998 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST
>
>
>
>I'm trying!!!!!!!!
> I'm trying!!!!!!!!
> I'm trying!!!!!!!!
>
>
>writes:
>>
>>>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>> >
>>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!
>>> >
>>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!
>>> >
>>> > REMOVE ME FROM THIS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>> >
>>
>>I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
>>
>> "COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
>>
>>You think it'll work?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
> I saw in Trade a Plane that Garmin is
> selling a transponder also. Does anyone know anything about it?
I investigated this because the Narco AT-50A which I bought "removed in
working condition" 4 yrs ago over the internet turned out, predictably, to be
a dud. (No, the seller was not an RV builder. We are men of integrity, are
we not?) Now I have a Narco tray all plumbed up but cannot enter class B or C
airspace without purcha$ing another xponder. Tha Garmin looked real
interesting as it comes with an optional $200 adapter that makes it a slide-in
replacement for the Narco. I started to order one from Avionics West (the
sponsor for AvWeb) but the PhD type who runs the store talked me out of it.
He asked me if I had read his "Transponder Shootout" article on AvWeb. When I
did, I found out why he recommended the Narco even though he doesn't carry
them. Now I have a new AT-150 on its way, and about $300 still in my pocket
that wouldn't be if I bought the Garmin.
To make a long story short, the Garmin is very awkward to tune in the field,
and often is out of frequency tolerance as received from the factory. He is
now declining to do any more Garmin installations. It also has some discrete
components soldered onto the board over top of all the fancy surface-mount
components. This unit was apparently rushed into release before its time.
Those wishing to read the report may find it hard to find, as I did. It's on
AvWeb, follow the trail to: Avionics/Avionics West/about our company/reports
{if memory serves me correctly}.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
going to Winchester, VA fly-in 10/17
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
> On intercomms again there was an overwelming consensus, PS engineering .
> Not the cheapest but apparently worth the $. Looks like that will probably
> be my choice.
I love my FlightCom 403-D with the digital clearance recorder. To each his
own.
But I've had two successive lemons with LightSpeed ANC headsets: one defective
board with deafening feedback, and one shorted mic jack tip (PTT), which
produced the following actual transcript of radio traffic last week on 118.9
MHz:
"What the heck? Why is the squelch open??" <> "Huh... wait a minute! Why
is the comm TX light on? Lemme see- the radio is set to what frequency... oh,
NUTS! Hello, tower? Yeah, three-zero yankee delta here.... Sorry for the
open mike a minute ago... just talking to myself here on the ramp, yes-
ineedy... may I go to my room now? I think I'd like to be alone for awhile...
Say again? ...Oh, yes sir, it's an experimental, all right... Yes, sir, I
built it all by myself. Yes, sir, even wired the radios. Sure did."
It's the little things that make sport aviation so much fun...
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
| From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
>>
>>I think I'll go out to my garage, stand over my RV6A, and exclaim,
>>
>> "COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
>> COME TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!"
>>
>>You think it'll work?
>>
>>
Lyrics from The Beatles and former Beatles should help in
construction..... More recently G. Harrison...."ITS GONNA TAKE A LOTTA
TIME... AND A WHOLE LOTTA MONEY TO DO IT RIGHT.... "
As for the guy who can't find his way off the list, maybe we should all
(1,000 of us) send him an off line email on how to unsubscribe. grin :)
Mike Adams/2316/-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Fellow listers,
I don't know about everyone else, but my personal time is somewhat
limited so monitoring this list makes that total amount of time even
less.
I sometimes consider just un subscribing when I see so much extra list
clutter that is unnecessary.
In the hope that it would reduce some of it I will mention just a couple
of things for those on the list that maybe don't know.
If you reply to a message on the list, it goes directly back to the list
for all to see.
If it is more personal in nature then look for the senders personal
E-mail address (always included in the message) and send back to them
directly.
To do this you can still click on "reply" , then just delete the RV-list
address from the "send to" field and replace it with the persons personal
address.
This would reduce some of the unnecessary posts on the list.
And if someone has a problem because they are not as E-mail literate
as others are (like "TAKE ME OFF THE THIS LIST")
Help them out, and send them a message directly to their E-mail address.
Not back to the list.
I would personally rather have more time to build airplanes, than wadding
through a bunch of unnecessary stuff, and I'll bet many of you would
also.
Sometimes I wonder how any of you guys even have time to build on your
RV's. Is every body out there retired :-)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
>So, moral of this story: when shopping for materials from other than
>known aircraft suppliers....make up a story about what the parts are
>going to be used for! They'll certainly believe you....doesn't
>everybody
>use aircraft grade material to fix lawn chairs and fences?
>
I usually just tell the truth and say that I am making something for my
RV.
They probably just think.... "goofy motorhome guys".
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
ns and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Wing Spar Bolts |
Sorry to waste band width but Dennis's E-mail server wont accept Mail
from my server so I am sending via the list (and it may be of interest to
others anyway).
>Hello Scott,
>My name is Dennis Angello and I found an article you posted on April
>25, 1998
>while searching for information regarding installing wing spar
>bolts...
>
>I have an RV4 that I purchased (I did not build it)... I've had it for
>about 3
>years (and love it)...
>During a routine inspection I put a wrench on the large wing spar
>bolts (in
>the center) and was very SURPRISED how loose they were... not quite
>hand tight
>but almost, also there are about 3-5 threads showing past the end of
>the
>nut... I called VANS and they said I should only have 1 thread showing
>and the
>bolts should be very tight... so, I started seaching for more
>information and
>found your article..
>..
>If you have time, I have some questions.
>1) If the bolts have been loose for some time.. I guess I should
>replace them
>and not just tighten them?
That depends.
You could tap out one that is easy to remove and see if their is any
visible wear (cad plating worn off)
If no wear is visible then I would just retorque them.
>2) Another "builder article" I found said to add washers so that only
>1 thread
>will be left showing... is that correct?
Actually between 2 and 3 threads would probably be ok. you just need to
be certain that the nut is not bottoming out on the threads and trying to
turn onto the unthreaded portion of the bolt shank.
..if so, what kind of wahsers?
Use standard AN960-6 washers (for 3/8 " bolts)
>3) Do the Wing spar bolts have to be periodically re-torqued?
It's not a bad idea to check them during the annual condition inspection.
We found the bolts loose on our RV-4 at Van's at one time but it was
flown hard with aerobatics by Van doing his airshow routines.
Most of the time retorque after the first 100 hours or so, takes care of
any loosening caused by everything seating in, and it is usually fine
after that.
>..
>thanks for any help you may offer...
>...
>Do you know of any maintenance advisories for flying RV's geared for
>"non-
>builders" like me (there are more and more of "us" out here now).... I
>only
>ask because I've had 3 AP's annual this plane since I bought it.. but
>NONE of
>them caught the loose spar bolts...
>..
No... we have been trying to put together a service maintenance manual
but have had little spar time to do so.
Bob Skinner posted an excellent annual condition inspection checklist
form about a year ago that you should be able to find in the archives.
Search for "RV annual inspection form"
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST |
First you have to click your heals together three times and then make the
wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Elec. Flap Ques. |
Trying to install my electric flaps in my -4. Did anyone have a problem with
the W-406g -- the small arm off the main welment which attaches to the
electric motor linkage-- interferring with the F430 floor? 99% sure I have
the weldment positioned correctly, but with end of the weldment arms - that
attach to the flaps- touching the floor I can not rotate the weldment - raise
the flaps- as the 406g hits the floor. The fuse is still upside down in the
jig, so maybe I'm looking at things bassackwards (wouldn't be the fist time),
but this has me stumped. Any comments on this would be helpful. thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV4 Lower Cowling Fitting - Help! |
Gentlemen:
I checked the archives and didn't come up with a single hit that
offered any insight into my problem.
I am building an RV4 equipped with an IO-360 B (180 HP), with constant
speed prop using Larry Vetterman's crossover pipes. The top cowling and
extensions fit up quite nicely. I managed to get a horizontal line cut on the
top cowling with the airframe in a horizontal flight configuration. I then
attempted to fit the lower cowl. I have a major interference problem with the
exhaust pipes on both sides of the lower cowl. The interference starts when
the cowling is still 3 inches below the mating level of the upper cowl. I
would estimate that the sidewalls are too narrow by about an inch on both
sides. My shipping invoices from Vans indicate a C/S cowl.
My questions: Has anyone using this type of engine configuration
encountered this situation fitting their cowling? Was I shipped the wrong
cowl? Do I have to get creative with my cutoff wheel and modify the cowl? Any
suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear failures |
<< Now let's get back to useful stuff ... like flogging me for being a fan of
multi-vis oils. >>
Geeez, and your other posts made you sound like such a smart guy.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
together, all for one, one for all....together.
On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we are
propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor that,
we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would lift
your palm to your lips and blow, we are climbing away.
Boost is on, pressure is fine, oil and temps are good, we push over gently
and throttle back, looking all around at the wonder spread before us.
We feel inclined to play a bit and move the stick from side to side and
over.
Put her in a bank and she stays there. That is a sign of being unstable,
but then so am I, for I believe we are most stable....reliable..fun..
Wing tip over wing tip, rolling in a wide and gracefully lazy arc, the
ground becomes the sky, the sky becomes the ground and all the greens and
browns and then blue of water points ahead.
Wisps and puff-balls of cloud station themselves along our pathway, our
markers and waypoints in the sky..
I think that I see a white speck far off the wing, a tiny speck of
white that grows a little larger,...larger,... keeps my speed....closes...
"Keep your heading, speed, and altitude ".." I'll close up on you "..
Can this really be ? Can this really be my old formation buddy ?
Gone a month, but it already seems a year ?
I have wished so long and hard, that I finally brought him back ?
We are close in now and we turn to fly along the old haunts, trade altitude
for speed and down along the riverbanks, the clock reads very high and we
twist with the river and now you can see the speed as only you can when the
tree tops, boats, kids waving, dogs loping...flashing by as nothing else
before.
I feel wonderful......wonderful...this is the sum of all that I am....
This is all of the things I have never done before.. and wondered if
only..if only.
What an amazing thing this is that I have created..How it transports me !
I look behind at 4 o'clock and I see his wing tip lift and arc away. A
little wave, a little smile and he is no more. Was it really him ? Was it
the wisps ?
Soon...all too soon..we are gliding back to terra firma, the prop slows
from the scimitar arc of lightening pattern to blades that I can count.
The taxi back in is like closing the cover of a book I could not put down.
I am sorry it is over, but every chapter has an ending.
After RV is put away, I see in the dark corner, that RV that no longer
flies,...
I feel the cowling, the engine is cold, there is dust on the wings now.
It was not him after all.
I close the doors, amble away, and turn to reflect on the joy I have had.
I have had a wonderful time..thanks to my RV..My RV and I are friends....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | sanblasting gear legs? |
can anyone tell me if sandblasting the gear legs would weaken them somehow?
K.H.Ahamer
near Sydney/Australia
RV6AQ partly painted and hopefully flying soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | harness source (Australia) |
hi fellow builders in Australia,wounder if anyone can tell me who sells
seatbelts for RV6 in Australia.There are some available in the US
but the seem not to be approved for Australia .will this change with the
experimental category??
What have others done?
Karl Ahamer
near Sydney
RV6AQ hope to fly by this summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | lettering (Australia) |
hi fellow builders,can anyone tell me what the requirements are in regards
to letter size for aircraft identification on wing and fuse?
thanks
Karl Ahamer
near Sydney
RV6AQ
painting.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rudder stiffeners |
I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. I've used
about a foot of it here and there already. I'm wondering
how much you guys had left over after the emp. Did you have
at least a foot left over? I'm wondering if I need to go
ahead and order more (since it takes about 10 days for
things to get here from Van's. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSN mail" <solanas(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | sanblasting gear legs? |
Sandblasting is the best way to prep steel for a good primer and paint
coating. the sand blasting has to be done properly, for example, glass
beads are used as the blasting material.
> can anyone tell me if sandblasting the gear legs would weaken
> them somehow?
> K.H.Ahamer
> near Sydney/Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I have a problem with my second set of lightspeed 20k's. As I was trying to
adjust the sidetone on my radio (Icom a-200) I kept getting a high pitched
tone when I keyed the mike. I kept thinking it was an awfully touchy
adjustment. Until I tried my other headset and the tone wasn't there. I
then properly adjusted the sidetone (which took care of my problem, by the
way), and am packaging the lightspeeds up to send them back, again. It was
an odd problem. The tone would get worse or better, depending on which
direction I turned my head. It sounded like a feedback problem. I am
starting to lose faith in lightspeed. But they are sooo comfortable.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [SMTP:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 16, 1998 10:17 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: avionics
>
>
>
>
> > On intercomms again there was an overwelming consensus, PS engineering
> .
> > Not the cheapest but apparently worth the $. Looks like that will
> probably
> > be my choice.
>
> I love my FlightCom 403-D with the digital clearance recorder. To each
> his
> own.
>
> But I've had two successive lemons with LightSpeed ANC headsets: one
> defective
> board with deafening feedback, and one shorted mic jack tip (PTT), which
> produced the following actual transcript of radio traffic last week on
> 118.9
> MHz:
> "What the heck? Why is the squelch open??" < tapping and general cycling of several swithes>> "Huh... wait a minute!
> Why
> is the comm TX light on? Lemme see- the radio is set to what frequency...
> oh,
> NUTS! Hello, tower? Yeah, three-zero yankee delta here.... Sorry for
> the
> open mike a minute ago... just talking to myself here on the ramp, yes-
> ineedy... may I go to my room now? I think I'd like to be alone for
> awhile...
> Say again? ...Oh, yes sir, it's an experimental, all right... Yes, sir,
> I
> built it all by myself. Yes, sir, even wired the radios. Sure did."
>
> It's the little things that make sport aviation so much fun...
>
> -BB
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
In the USA, 12inch n numbers are required
to cross borders of Canada and Mexico.
Otherwise 3 inch letters are acceptable.
RV4 Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
Yes Adrian, I had some left over. I think it was about a 4 ft. section.
Bill Pagan
website fuse pics updated today
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. ...Did you have
>at least a foot left over?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | wing access panel nutplates hit aileron gusset. |
My skin came with a joggle that I cut away to fit around the gusset. It was
smooth enough when I got the cover fitted so that you would never know there
is a gusset under there.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
I am having difficulty lining up my wing access panel so it
doesn't interfere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | rudder stiffeners |
I had a little left over. I think it was more than a foot. It is useful
stuff to have on hand.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage steps
-----Original Message-----
I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. I've used
about a foot of it here and there already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
Here in the States, 12" is standard but you can use 3" if there isn't room
or you don't like the large billboard numbers. We were told that they "have
to" be 12' for "national defense if we fly to Canada, but in reality it
doesn't seem to make any difference to those who do fly there. I would
check with your governments FAA to see what they want. What we have in the
States is not what your bureaucrats may say is required.
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Ahamer <ascot(at)hinet.net.au>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 6:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: lettering (Australia)
>
>hi fellow builders,can anyone tell me what the requirements are in regards
>to letter size for aircraft identification on wing and fuse?
>thanks
>Karl Ahamer
>near Sydney
>RV6AQ
>painting.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
If you use words like 'an RV' or ' off road vehicle' they understand
perfectly.
Cecil
writes:
>
>
>
>
>>
>><< I was basically shown the door. >>
>>Brian
>>Why don't you tell us the name of this pillar of the community? That
>
>way,
>>we'll know where "not" to go.
>
>
>Well, I'll only state that it is a large supplier in Albuquerque, NM.
>I've learned recently that almost anything can be taken the wrong way,
>
>so I can't comfortably divulge any further details. I don't think it
>is
>a nationwide vendor, however, so unless you live here (and if
>so...SPEAK
>UP! I can use some company) you'll not encounter them. Just
>remember...keep the discussion centered around your lawn mower, or
>fixing the BBQ grill. No, wait...the grill might tip over and smash
>your
>toe...or....???
>
>Brian
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
You've used a foot of the 50 feet on stuff? Don't order more. You're fine.
-J
> >Return-Path: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 06:20:21 -0500
> From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> Subject: RV-List: rudder stiffeners
> Mime-Version: 1.0
>
>
> I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. I've used
> about a foot of it here and there already. I'm wondering
> how much you guys had left over after the emp. Did you have
> at least a foot left over? I'm wondering if I need to go
> ahead and order more (since it takes about 10 days for
> things to get here from Van's. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
Adrian Chick wrote:
>
>
> I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. I've used
> about a foot of it here and there already. I'm wondering
> how much you guys had left over after the emp. Did you have
> at least a foot left over? I'm wondering if I need to go
> ahead and order more (since it takes about 10 days for
> things to get here from Van's. Thanks.
>
Adrian,
I didn't have to remake any stiffners and if I remember correctly, there
was about 1 or 2 feet left over.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
Karl, there is no more a requirement for wing numbers in the States. It went out
about 30 or more years ago. Tail or fuselage numbers is the norm here. antiques
still number the wings as well as small numbers on the tail for nostalgia only.
See other posts about sizes. The main reason our government wants large numbers
on
the fuselage is to control the dope traffic from the South. They included Canada
but it is not enforced much if any from the North. Our government thinks it is
the
Small homebuilt airplanes that carry large loads of it, they thought the big
numbers would stop it. Actually they just didn't think.....
Phil
Karl Ahamer wrote:
>
> hi fellow builders,can anyone tell me what the requirements are in regards
> to letter size for aircraft identification on wing and fuse?
> thanks
> Karl Ahamer
> near Sydney
> RV6AQ
> painting.....
>
> | --- |
> | --- |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
Howdy:
Don't worry about it. I had at least a 3ft piece left, and I had to remake
a few of my stiffeners. And yes, I DID check to see if I had installed all
the stiffeners that were called for!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 7:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: rudder stiffeners
>
>
>I got 50 feet of stiffener angle with my emp kit. I've used
>about a foot of it here and there already. I'm wondering
>how much you guys had left over after the emp. Did you have
>at least a foot left over? I'm wondering if I need to go
>ahead and order more (since it takes about 10 days for
>things to get here from Van's. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony K. Self" <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com> |
>RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
>comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
>together, all for one, one for all....together.
>On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we are
>propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor that,
>we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would lift
There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
to do with the building process.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Here in the States, 12" is standard but you can use 3" if there isn't room
> or you don't like the large billboard numbers. We were told that they "have
> to" be 12' for "national defense if we fly to Canada, but in reality it
> doesn't seem to make any difference to those who do fly there. I would
> check with your governments FAA to see what they want. What we have in the
> States is not what your bureaucrats may say is required.
>
Need to clear up one misconception and that is you do not need large letters
to fly into Canada. They are only needed to fly into ADIZ (air defense
identification zones) which are along the east coast and west coast
and the southern border of the usa. None going into Canada. Also the
large numbers are needed if your plane is faster than 180kts. most RVs do
not fall into that speed range.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
Listers, is there any data for better rollover protection of a slider vs. a
tipup canopy? What about escaging after a rollover?
My bulkhead F605 is reinforced for the tipup. I am still trying to decide
what to build and are trying to expand my list of pro and cons for tipup vs
slider!!
Thanks for all inputs.
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO ||jigging fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Anthony K. Self wrote:
>
>
> >RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
> >comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
> >together, all for one, one for all....together.
> >On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we are
> >propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor that,
> >we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would lift
>
> There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
> prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
> RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
> to do with the building process.
>
I could think of a lot of things to say to you Anthony but I guess I won't
flame you. Those of us that are flying our RV's and have been for some
time get a special feeling and kind of bond with these pieces of aluminum
that we took and actually made a flying machine. This is accomplishment that
very few pilots ever get to accomplish and it is a high that last a long time.
Personally I really enjoy Corsairs thoughts.
If the sun were shinning right now I would be on my way down to
Livermore, CA to give Matt our RV-list administrator some instruction
and a BFR in my RV-6 and that is over three hours away
one way. That is how much I still like flying my RV after
almost ten years.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Anthony K. Self wrote:
>
>
> There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
> prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
> RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
> to do with the building process.
>
BTW Anthony
I forgot to ask in my last post have you started building yet???
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | List management suggestion |
I'm going to make a suggestion. This might be something that Matt wants
to add to his tips of the day list or something.
When you're about to reply to someone's how-to question, please look for
and read any other responses that have appeared in front of yours. You
may not need to respond.
I find myself about to hit the old Reply button a lot, but notice there
are 14 other responses in front of mine. Unless I'm first or have
something unique to add, I'm just adding to the clutter.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Amen, Jerry. My thoughts exactly.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Friends
>
>Anthony K. Self wrote:
>>
>>
>> >RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
>> >comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
>> >together, all for one, one for all....together.
>> >On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we
are
>> >propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor
that,
>> >we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would
lift
>>
>> There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is
a
>> prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building
an
>> RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has
something
>> to do with the building process.
>>
>I could think of a lot of things to say to you Anthony but I guess I won't
>flame you. Those of us that are flying our RV's and have been for some
>time get a special feeling and kind of bond with these pieces of aluminum
>that we took and actually made a flying machine. This is accomplishment
that
>very few pilots ever get to accomplish and it is a high that last a long
time.
>Personally I really enjoy Corsairs thoughts.
>
>If the sun were shinning right now I would be on my way down to
>Livermore, CA to give Matt our RV-list administrator some instruction
>and a BFR in my RV-6 and that is over three hours away
>one way. That is how much I still like flying my RV after
>almost ten years.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
>Listers, is there any data for better rollover protection of a slider vs. a
>tipup canopy? What about escaging after a rollover?
>My bulkhead F605 is reinforced for the tipup. I am still trying to decide
>what to build and are trying to expand my list of pro and cons for tipup vs
>slider!!
>Thanks for all inputs.
> Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO ||jigging fuselage||
Lothar,
IMO, it looks like either style would provide pretty good roll over
protection. There might be a slight advantage to the tip up roll bar as
it's closest to your head.
One advantage of the slider would be that, in an off-airport landing, you
could possibly slide the slider back before touch down after the fuel and
electrics are turned off thereby making an exit a lot easier. But, there
may be so many things going on in this situation that there wouldn't be time
to slide the canopy back.
I have a tip up and and helping "Gillette Charlie" build a slider which
we're just about done with. IMO, the tip up is much easier and quicker to
construct. I would think it is also lighter. If I were building another
six, I'd build the tip up. I love the visibility out of the tip up and I
think the lines of the airplane are more pleasing with the tip up. With the
6A, you should be able to taxi with the tip up open (when using the gas
struts) for increased occupant cooling, the major advantage of the slider, IMO.
Bob Skinner RV-6 450 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
>Here in the States, 12" is standard but you can use 3" if there isn't
>room
>or you don't like the large billboard numbers.
Actually if you have an experimental airworthiness cert. you can use 3" N
#'s if you have a max cruise speed of less than 180 Kts CAS (FAR 45.29)
unless you plan to fly into mexico or canada which requires 12" #'s.
If you are faster than that you need 12" even if you don't have room for
them.
One exception is if you are certified in the experimental crew
training/market survey catagory (as all of the new airplanes at Van's
such as the RV-8A) you then are required to use the 12" numbers
reguardless of speed.
But this may all be irrelavent since the orig. question was in regaurds
to Australia anyway.
We were told that they
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>
>There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS
>is a
>prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with
>building an
>RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has
>something
>to do with the building process.
>
>
Anthony,
For me, the message that you posted was no better or worse that the one
that you were referring to.
It may have been better for you to direct your message to the poster
personally (like I am this one to you) than to put it on the list (and in
the archives) for all to see.
This particular poster has a real gift with words, and had been asked by
a large portion of the list not to stop when he was slammed by someone
else previously (and besides he only does it once a month or so).
I have a feeling that you will probably be jumped on for making a post
like this but if you would quickly make an apology they may have mercy on
you :-).
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately.
I agree wholeheartedly, but none of it came from Austin.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
----------
> From: Anthony K. Self <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Friends
> Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 9:05 AM
>
> Anthony Self wrote:
>
> There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is
a
> prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building
an
> RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has
something
> to do with the building process.
>
>
> Mr Self
Speak for yourself. I am sure I speak for many of us on the list,
particularily those who have finished our RV's and who stay on this list
hoping that we can contribute in some way. We don't need the building tips
anymore. Corsairs' post was very inspiring and eloquent and I enjoyed it
immensely. As a matter of fact I thought it was so good that I printed it
and will include it in our next Flying Club newesletter with Austins
permission. I have deleted about 20 posts on "unsubscribe from this list".
That had nothing to do with building RV's either but I didn't flame the
posters. If you guys that are building, want some of the old sages to stay
on this list and offer some of their wisdom and advice then please refrain
from this arrogant attitute, or we will all be gone from this list. I have
made many friends and acquaintances in the RV ranks, friendships that I
cherish, I stay on this list to occasionally contribute and to expand those
friendships.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH ( #20332 ) First Flight Sept. 8/93
Beautiful British Columbia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
><< The only bad thing about solder in airplanes is that it makes the wire
> hard and brittle. >>
>One word of advice for those who need to solder but lack experience. If at
>all possible, look for 63/37 solder instead of 60/40. 63/37 has a liquid
>state, and a solid state, but no plastic state. This is a great help in
>keeping folks with the jitters from soldering what is known as a cold joint.
There's very little difference in 60/40 versus 63/37 from a practical
point of view . . . but 63/37 is better if you can find it. I've had
so many requests for the stuff, I stocked up last week and I'm looking
for small plastic spools to respool 1 pound lots. A pound lasts me
a couple of years. 1/4 pound would do 99.9% of homebuilders for a lifetime.
This is Kester Resin 285, .031" 63/37 solder . . . same stuff I use
on my bench. I think it's going to be about $6 per 1/4 lb post paid in
US. Anyone know of a source for small plastic wire spools?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Flying and building RVs |
I guess what I should have said in a few words was that all the time,
effort and money that a builder puts into his/her RV is going to result in
the nicest and kindest reward that one could bestow on ones self.
I am a slow builder and so are a lot of you guys. Some of you need to see
some progress and the odd shot of inspiration to get to where you know that
it won't be much longer now before you see first hand what until a few
years ago was neither attainable nor available to us as homebuilders. Many,
many people have experienced the thrill of special flight and sometimes a
finding of one's self and what they had inside themselves to create. One
man gave us that. He continues to give. I thank Van every time I open the
hangar door.
After building a long, long time, I got only 1 ride in an RV, and
that, plus looking and reading kept me going. I hope you guys keep going so
you finally get the reward that you deserve.
I must apologize to all as I have sinned, but I will leave you with a
technical note which really is RV related. (BTW, I usually reply direct to
questions),
Today was a day not fit for man nor beast to be out. The rain was
bouncing so high it was like a cow pissing on a flat rock.
Rain lashed in the hangar doors as I knelt on concrete and the doors banged
like the 1812 Overture.... I had a little chore to do.
I had to pull the wheel fairings off just to pump some air in the tires.
If I were to build again, I would drill a 1 inch hole in the fairing to
accept a nickel snap-in, use a valve extension, and pump in air in far less
time and bother.........So there you have it.
I have enjoyed the list so much that I have over 150 postings of good
tips saved.....It has been a wonderful ride and I thank you one and
all..Goodbye.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
>
>There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
>prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
>RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
>to do with the building process.
>
It's inspirational and motivational writings that I greatly enjoy. Hearing
from people who have completed their RV's and how much they enjoy them
helps to keep me building. Reading hate mail from jerks like you makes me
want to cancel my subscription. In fact, I am out of here. Corsair, when
I get my rv built, I will look you up and fly with you.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a fusilage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
Corsair wrote:
>
So there you have it.
> I have enjoyed the list so much that I have over 150 postings of good
> tips saved.....It has been a wonderful ride and I thank you one and
> all..Goodbye.
>
>
Austin
You have been on this list for a long time. I hope your goodbye does not
mean you are leaving the list because of one jerk that is not even building.
Keep writing man.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
>
>
> Today was a day not fit for man nor beast to be out. The rain was
>bouncing so high it was like a cow pissing on a flat rock.
>Rain lashed in the hangar doors as I knelt on concrete and the doors banged
>like the 1812 Overture.... I had a little chore to do.
> I had to pull the wheel fairings off just to pump some air in the tires.
>If I were to build again, I would drill a 1 inch hole in the fairing to
>accept a nickel snap-in, use a valve extension, and pump in air in far less
>time and bother.........So there you have it.
> I have enjoyed the list so much that I have over 150 postings of good
>tips saved.....It has been a wonderful ride and I thank you one and
>all..Goodbye.
>
>
>
First, I hope I'm not reading that you intend to drop off the list.
Your posts are much appreciated; your insight into what RV building
and flying really is should not be lost just because of one or two
bottom feeders.
Secondly, it's never too late to add that 1 inch hole. That's exactly
what I had on my RV. The only difficulty is getting the cap off the
stem and 'finding' the stem through that hole. I'd roll the plane
slowly back and forth until the stem would show in the hole.
Please stay and keep feeding those posts to us.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Right On... We can't all be "Self"-serving!!! from a non-builder, lurker...
> Mr Self
>Speak for yourself. I am sure I speak for many of us on the list,
>particularily those who have finished our RV's and who stay on this list
>hoping that we can contribute in some way. We don't need the building tips
>anymore. Corsairs' post was very inspiring and eloquent and I enjoyed it
>immensely. As a matter of fact I thought it was so good that I printed it
>and will include it in our next Flying Club newesletter with Austins
>permission. I have deleted about 20 posts on "unsubscribe from this list".
> That had nothing to do with building RV's either but I didn't flame the
>posters. If you guys that are building, want some of the old sages to stay
>on this list and offer some of their wisdom and advice then please refrain
>from this arrogant attitute, or we will all be gone from this list. I have
>made many friends and acquaintances in the RV ranks, friendships that I
>cherish, I stay on this list to occasionally contribute and to expand those
>friendships.
>
>Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH ( #20332 ) First Flight Sept. 8/93
>Beautiful British Columbia
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
sorry gang , i meant to sent that to corsair
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony K. Self" <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too hard
to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
>
>It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too hard
>to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
>cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
>
>
>
>
Believe me when I say that I am sure that I speak for many many others
on this list. We don't care to meet you, either.
Your life must be really miserable.
Now, go away; we don't want you on the RF List.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <danb(at)accex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
Anthony K. Self wrote:
> It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too hard
> to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
> cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
From the list FAQ:
RV-LIST POLICY STATMENT: The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a
forum of discussion for things related to the construction and flying
of Vans' RV-series aircraft.
Corsair's message is within this policy. Your two messages whining
about it (yes, and this message) are not. You have a delete key, and it
shouldn't have taken you more than a few seconds to realize that you
weren't interested in the message--so delete it. It's on-topic, and
there's no good reason why it shouldn't be posted.
As to your second sentence, I'm sure the feeling is mutual.
--
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, danb(at)accex.net
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good
with ketchup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie" <kearns(at)gte.net> |
The last time I checked nobody was holding a gun to our head and saying "you
have to suscribe to the RV list" There is room here for everyone on the
list and obviously people are enjoying his writings! What's that old
saying?;
"IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING NICE TO SAY, DON'T SAY ANYTHING AT ALL!!!"
-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony K. Self <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Friends
>
>>RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
>>comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
>>together, all for one, one for all....together.
>>On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we
are
>>propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor
that,
>>we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would
lift
>
>
>There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
>prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
>RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
>to do with the building process.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
If you are building a RV6A or RV6 you should have about 3 or 4 feet extra. At
least I did and I don't think I left any thing out!
Luck
Rollie RV6A
Wings on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie" <kearns(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
Anthony,
Let me know when you want to arrange that meeting?
-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony K. Self <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Unsubscirbe from this crap!
>
>It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too
hard
>to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily
impressed
>cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
After all this Im still looking for anyone who has any good ideas abput a
controllable rudder trim installation.
Please respond to my E-mail address LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
Thanks LKD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
In a message dated 10/17/98 6:18:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ammeterj(at)home.com writes:
<< ...So there you have it. I have enjoyed the list so much that I have over
150 postings of good tips saved >>
Funny Austin, I don't have ANY tips saved, but I have ALL of your short
stories. Hope this young man and the old man get to meet one day.
Blue skies and tailwinds.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
PS. HEY ANTHONY SELF, DID YOU LEAVE THE "ISH" OFF YOUR LAST NAME!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim??? |
----------
>From: LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim???
>Date: Sat, Oct 17, 1998, 6:20 PM
>
>
>After all this Im still looking for anyone who has any good ideas abput a
>controllable rudder trim installation.
>Please respond to my E-mail address LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
>Thanks LKD
>
>
>
Although I'm getting dangerously far from my area of expertise, it is my
understanding that trim tabs in general will decrease the flutter margin
(i.e. make a surface more prone to flutter). Many production aircraft use a
bungee or spring system which can hold rudder pressure for you without the
complexity and attendant problems associated with a movable tab. The RV-8
aileron trim uses this type of installation.
I have flown Cessnas (182, 337) and PA-24s which use a simple bungee system
which seems to work fine.
Also, RVs have such light control forces and rapid climb rates that I would
question the need for rudder trim...
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
Anthony K. Self wrote:
>
> It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too hard
> to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
> cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
I hope you are able to unsubscribe successfully, Mr. Self. Just to help you
along, I hasten to point out that you'll have to learn how to spell it.
Adios. BTW, the feeling's mutual.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I'm still looking for a rv3,? "don't-want-er.....thanks
jollyd(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
This doesn't have a damned thing to do with how to build an RV, so hit
delete now if it doesn't please you.
I've had a career of flying. I've been shot at and missed and shit at and
hit. I've had some damned close calls, 0 0 landings with no fuel and no
alternate and I've flown in some of the most beautiful conditions.
Sometimes I pop a cap and sit and think what it was all about.
Then Austin comes up with one of his post and it organizes my thoughts and
feelings and then I know what it was all about. He puts into words what is
rambling around inside of me.
As I wrote Vans when I first flew my 6, it is in the top three things in my
life. First meeting and marrying my wife of 47 years, then air to air
combat and coming out ahead of the game, then BUILDING and FLYING my own
a/c. That flight was better than my T-6 solo and flying F-4s.
Thanks for your imput Austin.
I hope you don't leave the list, but if you do, please put me on your group
mailings.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/17/98 2:30:12 Central Daylight Time, smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< This particular poster has a real gift with words, and had been asked by
a large portion of the list not to stop when he was slammed by someone
else previously (and besides he only does it once a month or so). >>
Corsair does indeed have a gift. My wife said so, and I agree.
What does the occasional post from this man have to do with building RV's??
How about keeping the dream that some of us have, alive??
When one runs into that occasional stumbling block, like most of us do, all we
have to do is read one of Austin's posts, and it rekindles the fire. Sometimes
he reminds me that the desire to have something to do with airplanes hit me
when I was aound 8 years old. Now that I am over a half century, that helps
me. Believe me, it helps me.
There are those of us who appreciate what Austin writes. If you don't, then
you have a delete key on you're computer. Use it please, but don't spoil what
Mr. Tinkler has to say to the rest of us.
Thank you
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
In a message dated 10/17/98 5:54:24 Central Daylight Time,
chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too
hard
to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
cry babies, I hope we never meet in person. >>
I certainly share that sentiment. I don't necessarily think I would like
meeting you in person, and I hope you feel the same way about me.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/17/98 7:06:59 Central Daylight Time, kearns(at)gte.net
writes:
<< "IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING NICE TO SAY, DON'T SAY ANYTHING AT ALL!!!" >>
AMEN!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry & Joan Lumb" <lumb(at)flinet.com> |
It's disappointing to see the RV List regress to the level of a chat page.
BEND OVER AND SHUT UP and the recent UNSUBSCRIBE "discussions"are examples
of what is now, unfortunately, the rule rather than the exception.
It is clear that there are number of contributors (small perhaps) whose
principal interest is expressing an opinion, or venting
---- on any subject --- regardless of their expertise in the area
under discussion.
While this is harmless enough in many cases, it is a bit frustrating when
evaluating information on technical issues. It's already difficult enough
to separate the technical wheat from the chaff without having to contend
with contributors who just have to get their "two cents in".
Regrettably, my opinion is shared by almost all the RVers I have met.
Hank Lumb
RV6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim??? |
>>
>Although I'm getting dangerously far from my area of expertise, it is my
>understanding that trim tabs in general will decrease the flutter margin
>(i.e. make a surface more prone to flutter). Many production aircraft use a
>bungee or spring system which can hold rudder pressure for you without the
>complexity and attendant problems associated with a movable tab. The RV-8
>aileron trim uses this type of installation.
>I have flown Cessnas (182, 337) and PA-24s which use a simple bungee system
>which seems to work fine.
>
>Also, RVs have such light control forces and rapid climb rates that I would
>question the need for rudder trim...
>
>James
>
James,
If the rudder tab was held rigidly in place, with no play in the
hinge or linkage, there would be a slight degradation in the flutter
margin due to the extra weight of the tab. This could be accounted
for by increasing the weight of the balance weight.
If there is any play at all in the linkage or hinge, the flutter
margin will be reduced. It is outside my area of expertise to say how
much the reduction in the flutter margin would be.
If the linkage ever fails, the floating tab could cause flutter at
speeds within the normal flight envelope. This could easily destroy
the aircraft.
I tend to agree that there is probably no need for an adjustable
rudder trim tab. Just add a fixed tab or wedge to trim the aircraft
for normal cruise.
LKD - If you still want to add an adjustable rudder trim tab - talk
to Van's. Make the linkage very stiff and make sure there is no
play. Inspect it every flight to reduce the chance of a linkage
failure in flight.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
>It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it
>too hard
>to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily
>impressed
>cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
Dear Mr. Self,
You may call them cry babies if you choose. I would prefer to
think of them as technologically oriented people who not only know
machines and airplanes, but also know something of the passions of man.
Apparently you do not. But then we all cannot be whole men.
lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
Anthony K. Self wrote:
>
>
> It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too hard
> to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily impressed
> cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
>
Mr Self
Austin adds a lot of color to this list. I think a lot of
people like his idea's and thoughts about a plane he made with
his own two hands and loves to fly.
As for being a soft hearted cry baby........ You damn well better
hope we don't meet.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
6 day's to the big inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Govenor |
Has anyone installed the Matronics Governor for the Mac Servos? I just
assume by the one from Matronics than Mac, if does the same thing as Mac's
speed controller...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
susan: what price range 3 are you looking for? where are you located??-- Jim
Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Access cover |
| From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
RV-4 wing access cover, old wing kit where you have to build the ring for
the plate nuts.
Question: has anyone installed the cover by means other than the plate
nuts? I am considering a hinge and flush hartwell snaps ( have a bunch
of them ). This might be a bad idea, I don't know if the screwed on
cover is supposed to provide some strength that a hinge/snap arrangement
would not.
I checked the archives, thanks in advance guys, I hope we can still ask
builder questions. Gotta go drill.. :-)
Mike Adams/#2316/-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Bronson <TBronson(at)compuserve.com> |
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I just returned home, after thirty-six hours away, to find some sixty
messages awaiting my attention. I'm happy to see there's not much of a
Carpal Tunnel epidemic on the RV List!
Many have already weighed in on the issue of "appropriate" posts. I was
pleased to see several step up to defend "Corsair's" contributions. He and
Michael "Your going to LOVE your airplane" Lewis, among others, have
managed to share with us the joy and satisfaction of flying one of these
neat airplanes. Their essays go into a file of mine entitled "Encouraging
Words." Now, I have not even started building, but I'm pretty confident
that when I do I'll run into a setback or two that will challenge my
perseverance. If/when those times come along, I'll put the tools away and
read prose instead of plans.
I'm confident that I'll return to the shop in a better frame of mind and,
more importantly, that I WILL return. I'd like to thank those of you who
have so eloquently captured the spirit of "RV success" for sharing it with
us.
If any of you are concerned about whether or not your RV flight stories are
acceptable to the list, please e-mail them to me direct. I LIKE them!
Tim
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can't we just get along? |
There sure is a lot of animosity on this list. If you dont care to read a post
just press delete and move on but just because you don't like the way a person
writes or what he writes it is no reason to fill the list with hostility.We
all have a common interest and love; building and flying RVs so why not focus
on that and leave the anger somewhere else?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV4 Lower Cowling Fitting - Help! |
I am not familiar enough with the IO-360B series to know, but is it wider
than the O-360s? It is still a parallel valve engine, I think, so I'm not
sure. In any case, you might try trading your crossover pipes for the
Vetterman straight pipes. When Everett Hatch was modifying my O-360A1A, he
tested the stock engine on his dyno with both the Vetterman crossover and
Vetterman four-pipe exhaust sytems. He found no significant difference in
power output between the two. The four-pipe system was, however,
considerably easier to fit inside the cowl.
Hope that helps,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
> I am building an RV4 equipped with an IO-360 B (180 HP). I have a
major >interference problem with the
>exhaust pipes on both sides of the lower cowl. The interference starts when
>the cowling is still 3 inches below the mating level of the upper cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Elec. Flap Ques. |
If I am reading your question correctly, I think I had the same problem.
The center weldment arm that points down under the floor hits the floor in
front of the back seat before reaching full travel, right? I just cut a
relief in the floor large enough to reach full travel. No big deal.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>Trying to install my electric flaps in my -4. Did anyone have a problem
with
>the W-406g interferring with the F430 floor?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim??? |
Very good advise, I will consider it seriously, I am planning to build a
Rocket and will study the need for rudder trim more.
Thanks LKD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cotter pins & safety wire |
Hello all,
I have two questions:
1) Are the two cotter pins received with the wing kit supposed to go into
the bolt on the Aileron bell crank? The
cotter pins I received do not fit in the holes (too big).
2) Are there any instructions as to what gets safety wired and what
type/size wire is used?
Thanks to all
Rick Osgood
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I'm trying to install the F-665 between the control sticks. I have a 6A-QB
and in
the manual it calls for a M3414 bearing in both ends of the F-665 in the
inventory it does not show any listed except for some F3414 in bag QBAG-802
Anybody else run into this?
Regards Mike Comeaux
Answer off list to:
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
> After building a long, long time, I got only 1 ride in an RV, and
>that, plus looking and reading kept me going. I hope you guys keep going so
>you finally get the reward that you deserve.
I have been building for almost two years now and haven't flown in a rv
yet. I hope and expect it to be a great experience and I really enjoy your
postings.
> I must apologize to all as I have sinned,
No apology is necessary because you haven't sinned. And if your postings
are considered a sin, then the rv-list isn't worth being on.
Regards,
Your friend in spirit
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ USA
rv-6a fusilage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Answered my own question on rod end bearings but when they go into the
control sticks alot of slop in between ----fabricate bushings?
Mike Comeaux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Yeller Pages Update |
Listers,
If you get bored with the RV-List brou-ha-ha d'jour over whether unsolicited
inspiration or flowery prose is or isn't appropriate, may I suggest spending
some time with the latest edition of Gary VanRemortel's RV Builder's Yeller
Pages at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Enjoy, and be sure to tell Gary thanks
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
arly
come to begin again does anyone have any negatives for this idea. The idea
being that a light engine and wooden prop would achieve a better CG in the end
product. Also--not to restart the gear failure thread--but I still think the
Grumman American solution ---a small gas strut and pivoting gear leg or some
type of rubber bumper to dissipate bending loads --might be relevant to the
situation. They had shimmy problems also and I am not sure that was ever fully
solved but neither of my Grummans ever shimmied, porposed much to speak of or
broke despite some rather rude landings on my part but then I know others did.
As I had stated earlier also I think the reason they adapted the gas strut was
to reduce porposing and reduce the likelyhood of failures some of the early
versions had suffered. The "Last of the Line" Grummans-- if nothing else-- had
damm stout gear especially the AA1C and Tiger models. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
<< The only difficulty is getting the cap off the
stem and 'finding' the stem through that hole. >>
John and List,
Just a quick tip to help make this relevant. Use a piece
of vinyl tubing about 4 inches long and slip it over the valve stem cap you
can then easily remove the cap.
As for corsair. Keep on writting! Your post are one of the posts
I consider required reading.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
Delivered-To: fixup-rv-list(at)matronics.com@fixme
| Subject: | Re: Flying and building RVs |
> .
>
>
> > I must apologize to all as I have sinned.....
>
Corsair, please don't go. Your writings are inspiring and greatly
appreciated by this lister,and probably 99.5% of the list feels the same way.
When I read your stuff, I remember again
what it felt like to dream of flying when I was a little boy. It IS relevant,
because the RV will
make this dream come true for me, and writings like yours will help me to see the
project
through to its completion.
Mr Self, you have a right to your opinions, too. But I thought you
unsubscribed.
So why are you still here ? Perhaps you really don't want to leave the list.
Maybe you need us.
Maybe you will have worthwhile and valuable tips that will directly benefit
myself and others. Just accept that most of us like and look forward to Corsair's
postings. Maybe, just maybe, with a slight modification in attitude, you might
even start to like his stuff, too.
George True, Phoenix AZ
Dreaming of flying my own RV-8 in formation with Corsair...
true(at)uswest.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Matronics Web & FTP Sever Down... |
Due to upgrades and other problems... www.matronics.com and ftp.matronics.com
are currently not available. Email traffic is currently being handled
normally.
I will post an update when the WWW and FTP server is back online. No ETA
at this time.
Sorry about the prolonged outage. It was only suppose to last 10 minutes...
Matt Dralle
RV, Zenith, and Kolb List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Govenor |
A
>Has anyone installed the Matronics Governor for the Mac Servos? I just
>assume by the one from Matronics than Mac, if does the same thing as Mac's
>speed controller...
I have it, and it works great. It allowed me to install a switch for my
passenger to adjust elevator trim when they are in control.
I have Matts, fuel flow system as well, as they say, do not leave home
without it.
Tom Martin
HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Off List... alternator progress, oil wishes |
Mark,
I hope the flakes in your oil screen turn out to be innocuous.
Thanks again for your help on the alternator. I bought new bearings
and brushes for mine, and test ran the engine last weekend. Nice 30
Amp charge from the alternator (on the 3rd run, when I thought to
look at the ammeter). Looks like you saved me $400 (mine vs B&C).
Thanks,
Tim
On 15 Oct 98, at 23:14, MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Oil screen flakes continued.....
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> First off, thanks to everyone who replied on and off the list. My engine
> has
> 1650 hours since new. I bought it used, it was still flying on a Pitts. I
> put desiccant plugs in the cylinders and sprayed them down with LPS 2, and
> sealed up every opening. It was stored in the garage for 18 months before
> starting it up last March. By July, I had put 25 hours on it, so I changed
> the oil and remote mounted filter. I forgot to collect a sample for
> analysis. The suction screen and filter failed to turn up any foreign
> objects. So I went 50 hours until this oil change. The engine is using a
> quart of oil every 6 hours, I'm using Phillips X/C 20W/50 oil.
> This time I did collect a sample, just before I discovered the 5 small
> flakes in the suction screen. The flakes are ferrous (they attract to a
> magnet). They are very small, just big enough to get caught in the screen.
> I got a call tonight from the lab doing the analysis, they said that they
> found no abnormal indications in the sample. After showing the offending
> material to several knowledgeable A&P's, the general consensus is that I
> ought to give it another 25 hours and see if anything else turns up. This
> is the first time that I've gotten to be an owner/operator, instead of
> just a renter. It seems to be a learn as you go process......
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A N106RV
> Broken Arrow, Ok
> MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Govenor |
I originally used only the mac servo and relay
deck. The trim was very fast! I replaced the relay
deck with the governor and now can make the trim
work at any speed I desire! It works great.
RV4 Stew Bergner Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
In a message dated 10/18/98 12:01:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com writes:
<< Are the two cotter pins received with the wing kit supposed to go into the
bolt on the Aileron bell crank? The cotter pins I received do not fit in the
holes >>
Maybe things have changed, or perhaps I've done something wrong, but I used a
Nyloc nut for the aileron bellcrank as well as all of the other bellcranks in
the aircraft. Since this is a bearing it should be torqued.
The cotter-pin is used where the rear-spar and fuselage join.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Scott,
... I think you fell into the trap that you are complaining
about...:^)
Your message was actually to the whole list.
I am going to write to Matt Dralle and suggest that the RV-list
default "reply" be to the sender only, and EXTRA action has to be
taken to respond to the list. Pehaps you could do the same??
Yup, your right!
I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention.
So to the list "Please except my apologies".
And to Anthony, "Please except my apologies also".
>Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Corsair thread |
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Corsair,
Yes, Mr. Self may be right in keeping with the law of the list,
But absolutely not in the spirit of the list.
YOU think that your posts are loaded with whimsey and feel
guilty about that. That sounds about right , and normal, for a modest
person with a God given gift. I don't have to substantiate the former
statement since you have probably noticed the pile of roses that have
been dropped at your feet during this thread. One of these roses was
dropped by a personel friend of Matt's, and have you noticed, Matt has
been silent thru this thread ? I would opine that we, the general
population, tend to use logic and reason to conduct our lives. You, on
the other hand, use this gift, the appeal to the nobility of man thru the
use of pros, to help us refocus on life and to break the limitations we
set upon ourselves.
In conclusion, I beleive that you are selling yourself short and
for what my two cents is worth, please continue to post these pros as you
are able.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
P.S. The mind is like a peice of fruit:
It's either growing,
or it's rotting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim??? |
Thanks for the very valuable information, Ill keep in my file. I may give you
a
give you a call later.
Thanks LKD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Govenor |
<< Has anyone installed the Matronics Governor for the Mac Servos? I just
assume by the one from Matronics than Mac, if does the same thing as Mac's
speed controller. >>
I have two, one for the elevator trim and one for the aileron trim. They
replace the combination of the MAC relay deck (needed when using coolie hat
switch) and the MAC speed control deck. And it accomplishes this without
decreasing motor torque as does the MAC speed control. I think it varies duty
cycle as opposed to voltage. It also allows use of multiple trim switches
(front and back or side to side). First switch closed has priority.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Access cover |
Mike,
I had an RV-3 that had all of the plates held on with hartwell latches. There
was one per plate on the trailing edge while the leading edge was "keyed" with
an inner tongue to keep it in place. Worked great and took seconds to open up
for inspection. My current RV-6 (N1KJ beautifully built by Kelsey Jewett) has
the screws. I intend to modify to the other configuration someday.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Govenor |
Paul,
I have the Matronics governor on all three trim axes. The ability to tweak
the servo response rates to your liking is worth their (very small) weight
in gold. It also allows connecting two (or more) trim buttons to each
servo.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
one of the many who enjoy Corsair's postings; keep 'em coming, my friend!
>
>Has anyone installed the Matronics Governor for the Mac Servos? I just
>assume by the one from Matronics than Mac, if does the same thing as Mac's
>speed controller...
________________________________________________________________________________
susan,
i'm not sure what they are going to do with the rv3 thats hanging in the tampa
museium of sceince, i know they change the theme there every 2 or 3 months,
i doubt if it had the spar mods done ( i hope you know about thoses spars )
the plane itself looks real nice, but the engine has been removed, i quess
so they can hang it overhead, if you need the phone number there respond off
list ( abayman(at)aol.com )
scott
winging it in tampa
right tank mounted yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
In hooking up my whelen strobes, I recall that someone on the list once
said something about running a wire from the wingtip power supply
directly to the other wingtip power supply in order to have both strobes
flash at the same time. What do these wires hook to, and how does this
work?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
I also used the nyloc nuts for my aileron bellcrank, If i remember correctly
the plans called for it, I do check them periodically and they have showed no
signs of untightening, however a cotter-pin bolt would be appropriate in this
application, I may even change them at next inspection.
chet razer & miss chiquita, 118 hrs now
> holes >>
>
> Maybe things have changed, or perhaps I've done something wrong, but I used a
> Nyloc nut for the aileron bellcrank as well as all of the other bellcranks in
> the aircraft. Since this is a bearing it should be torqued.
>
> The cotter-pin is used where the rear-spar and fuselage join.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
>
>
> << Are the two cotter pins received with the wing kit supposed to go into the
> bolt on the Aileron bell crank? The cotter pins I received do not fit in the
> holes >>
>
> Maybe things have changed, or perhaps I've done something wrong, but I used a
> Nyloc nut for the aileron bellcrank as well as all of the other bellcranks in
> the aircraft. Since this is a bearing it should be torqued.
>
> The cotter-pin is used where the rear-spar and fuselage join.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
Gary - Now you have me real confused. I thought that any 'nut - bolt' combination
that would be able to rotate after assembly shall be cotter pinned (such as the
rudder cable to rudder horn clevis bolt). All other fastenings that do not rotate
can be fastened with a nyloc nut , or, if in a high temp area an all steel lock
nut. Now the rear spar does not rotate but is just a clamping area. Are you cotter
pinning this joint just for the added safety or is there another reason?
DGM - (confused about fasteners) & working on the canopy bubble trim
RV-6 in Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> I am going to write to Matt Dralle and suggest that the RV-list
> default "reply" be to the sender only, and EXTRA action has to be
> taken to respond to the list. Pehaps you could do the same??
>
>
>
This is the way the list used to be about 3-4 years ago and then
everyone
almost) wanted it changed to the way it is now. If I remember right Matt
took a vote and it was decided to leave it as it is now with the reply
going to the list.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <bjapundza(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
I have been on the list now for more than three years, and in the past
year I think the RV-List has grownto the point where I think it might be
time to revisit the idea of going to a newsgroup. Newsgroups have the
advantages over regular mailing lists in regard how threads are handled,
and you don't have to download messages you might not be interested in.
I'm getting tired of seeing people flaming each other on subjects that
don't interest them, like primering. Even though many veterans of the
list hate to see certain subject material, I'm sure the person who's
asking the question might not have the same opinions or know how to look
up posts in the archives. I actually enjoy people seeing people being
poetic about their RV's; some consider it garbage, but others like me
can't wait until they're singing the same praises about the aircraft
they lovingly built in the garage. By having things as they are
currently, many people get offended of "bs" messages because when they
open up their email it takes 15 minutes to download 100 messages. I
know a few people who unsubscribed from the list because they didn't
like their inboxes flooded.
Personally, I think a newsgroup would be the way to go.
Bob Japundza
RV-6, getting ready to paint fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
Hi, Take it for what it's worth, but I have been told that of you use a boly that
has a hole in it for a cotterpin, and you use a nylon nut, you tear the ntlon
tightening the nut> Of course, if you drill the hole after the nut is
on......jolly
chester razer wrote:
>
> I also used the nyloc nuts for my aileron bellcrank, If i remember correctly
> the plans called for it, I do check them periodically and they have showed no
> signs of untightening, however a cotter-pin bolt would be appropriate in this
> application, I may even change them at next inspection.
>
> chet razer & miss chiquita, 118 hrs now
>
> > holes >>
> >
> > Maybe things have changed, or perhaps I've done something wrong, but I used
a
> > Nyloc nut for the aileron bellcrank as well as all of the other bellcranks
in
> > the aircraft. Since this is a bearing it should be torqued.
> >
> > The cotter-pin is used where the rear-spar and fuselage join.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
Normally a bearing should be torqued and the fastner should not be subject to
rotation and therefore a nylock fastner is apprpriate. My current employer has
a belt and suspenders approach and uses locking insert (nylock) castellated
nuts--shear and standard types. Maybe this would be a good thing in some
places on the RV also in places that go along time between inspections or in
certain areas through the control system. Safety wire should be sized to the
bolts and the expected loads. Props I think 040, most everthing else 032 and
small hardware with small loads can use 025/020. The former is just a
guide--your needs may vary. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Hook-up |
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> Listers;
> In hooking up my whelen strobes, I recall that someone on the list once
> said something about running a wire from the wingtip power supply
> directly to the other wingtip power supply in order to have both strobes
> flash at the same time. What do these wires hook to, and how does this
> work?
there is a terminal on each of the power supplies dedicated for that purpose,
simply connect a wire with proper terminals to the power supplies and run the
wire through each wing and under the seats. Simple as that, I omitted the
wire to reduce weight. My strobes flash independently from each other
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony K. Self" <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com> |
Ok. everybody, I give up. I am the one that started all this mess. I
personally don't like reading the kind of stuff Corsair posted, but
apparently a large portion of you do. I have also received as many posts
that agree with me, but none of them seem to want to put their neck on the
line like I did, by saying it to everyone. I have followed the list on and
off for quite a while and I try to remain silent the biggest part of the
time. To answer some of your questions, I have not started one yet. I've
worked avionics and electronics for several years and have followed RV's
since 1991. I will get an RV8 started soon. I apologize to Corsair for a
public flame, I was fed up with a lot of the posts and I probably should
have thought about it before I did it. Ok, sorry for starting this mess,
let's just agree to stop it here and now, I'll keep my mouth shut.
Anthony
________________________________________________________________________________
<19980902.063058.7222.0.SMcDaniels(at)juno.com>
<19980902.070541.7222.0.SMcDaniels(at)juno.com>
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Reply to sender vs RV-List - was Friends |
>
>> I am going to write to Matt Dralle and suggest that the RV-list
>> default "reply" be to the sender only, and EXTRA action has to be
>> taken to respond to the list. Pehaps you could do the same??
>>
>>
>>
>This is the way the list used to be about 3-4 years ago and then
>everyone
>almost) wanted it changed to the way it is now. If I remember right Matt
>took a vote and it was decided to leave it as it is now with the reply
>going to the list.
>--
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
While I have screwed up a few times and sent messages to the list
that I meant to send to just one guy, I would hate to see the list
protocol changed so that a simple reply automatically went only to
the original sender. If we went that way, many good replies would
not make it to the list. After every interesting question we would
get a dozen people saying "I'm interested in that too, please reply
to the whole list."
The result would be even less technical content than we have now, and
the list would be even less useful to me.
Just my opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
>Listers, is there any data for better rollover protection of a slider
>vs. a
>tipup canopy? What about escaging after a rollover?
>My bulkhead F605 is reinforced for the tipup. I am still trying to
>decide
>what to build and are trying to expand my list of pro and cons for
>tipup vs
>slider!!
>Thanks for all inputs.
>
>
>
>
With the test experience that a number of RV flyer's have unfortunately
had the opportunity of gaining I believe there is no evidence to show
that one is any better than the other.
When inverted neither can be opened but I believe most in the situation
have found that the canopy broke up enough for them to pull off some
pieces and crawl out.
Carrying a tool that would allow you to break through the canopy if
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Hook-up |
>Listers; In hooking up my whelen strobes, I recall that someone on
>the list once said something about running a wire from the wingtip
>power supply directly to the other wingtip power supply in order to
>have both strobes
>flash at the same time. What do these wires hook to, and how does
>this
>work?
>
If the strobe supplies that you are using have the capability, there is
three connector plugs on the supply.
One of them is labeled Synch.
you run a cable between these 2 connectors and they will trigger
together.
Opinion follows...
It may look better to have them flash together but it has been proven
that it would make you more visible if they do not.
Someone looking at your airplane head on would be more likely to see it
if they don't flash together because the out of synch flash tricks the
brain into thinking it is seeing something in motion, because the eye saw
something happen at 2 different times close together.
It is sort of the same as using a device that modulates the intensity of
your landing lights (or the head lights on a train engine, etc.) it
simulates motion to something that otherwise may appear stationary to
your eye.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
>Gary - Now you have me real confused. I thought that any 'nut - bolt'
>combination
>that would be able to rotate after assembly shall be cotter pinned
>(such as the
>rudder cable to rudder horn clevis bolt). All other fastenings that do
>not rotate
>can be fastened with a nyloc nut , or, if in a high temp area an all
>steel lock
>nut. Now the rear spar does not rotate but is just a clamping area.
>Are you cotter
>pinning this joint just for the added safety or is there another
>reason?
>
>DGM - (confused about fasteners) & working on the canopy bubble trim
>RV-6 in Southern Alberta
>
>
It is true that any fastener that is fully torqued (to the proper value
for its size and type) can use a self locking safety (I.E. self locking
nut).
If the fastener is intended to have anything rotate on/around it must
use an AN310 castellated nut and a cotter pin (and a corresponding hole
in the bolt of course).
As for the AN5 bolt at the rear spar attach?
If you were ever able to witness a static load test of a set of RV wings
you would realize that with the amount of deflection that takes place
with the wings carrying a load of 6 G's it is apparent that there is
probably at least a small amount of movement in the rear spar at this
bolt joint with all the bending going on.
Though it is probably a very slight amount of movement Van called for a
cotter pin safety just to be sure since it is a single point flight
critical fastener.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
Calling all builders....
I'm building both my RV-8 wings at the same time, and I've just calculated
that I'll need about a thousand 3/32 clecoes in order to drill the top and
bottom main wing skins on in order to drill and rivet the leading edge
skins.
While few builders on this list would ever consider selling their hard-won
steeds, there might be a few of you with a bucket of silver clecoes that
you wouldn't mind parting with. Name your price.
Respond to me off-list at nknobil(at)gwi.net
Thanks!
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV-8 Wings in the jigs
P.S. Does anyone think I'm nuts to do this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffling |
>In looking ahead, I would like to know the order I should follow with
>regards to engine baffling. I am doing electrical and engine plumbing
>now, should I go ahead and install the baffle kit first? Before the
>cowling is fitted? It would seem that some of the plumbing might need to
>go thru the baffling; I don't want to have to remove the plumbing to get
>the baffling in. Sounds baffling, doesn't it? How about giving me a
>sequence that has worked for you guys?
>Thanks.
>
>Von Alexander
Von,
I fitted the cowling, did the baffles then did the plumbing. I think this
is the sequence most people use.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Fuel smell located |
First, thank you to the 16 people who wrote back suggesting places to
look for a difficult to locate fuel smell in the cabin.
The list of suggestions were as follows.
1] Fuel moving over the bottom of the wing and into the cockpit from a
admittedly leaky rivit near the tip end of the tank.
This was not it. There seemed to be no migration.
2] Fuel moving from the leaky rivit to around the rear tank baffle and
then inboard into the cockpit.
No again. The small drops forming at the leaky rivit stayed put and no
rivits or seals leakd behind the tank.
3] Leaky fittings in the cockpit
No, all were dry.
4] Fuel coming from the fuel tank vent lines through the vent ports
outside the plane and then seeping into the cockpit.
No again, the vents are clear, but dry.
5] Seepage from the primer fitting in the panel.
No, I use an electric primer which eliminates such fuel lines in the
cockpit.
6] leakage due to a fuel system modification in which one tank drains
into the other, as if there were a "both" setting on the fuel selector.
No, I don't have such a modification
7] ***the located source of the leak***
Fuel was seeping from the access door on the root end of the left tank.
At this panel, it was actually seeping from three different places. One
was through about 1/4" of the cork gasket. The other two were through 2
of the screws that hold the panel on via internal platenuts. The fumes
then came into the cockpit via the opening in the fuselage at the wing
root (for the aileron push tubes).
The solution will be to remove the tank and reseal the door with a new
cork gasket, and perhaps some pro-seal on the screws and platenuts to
prevent it from happening again. Actually, I would prefer to find some
fuel proof material that I can coat the screws with besides pro-seal.
Pro-seal makes a permanent bond that will be hard to break through if I
should need to remove the access panel once again. Thank you to George
Orndorff for pointing me to the actual location.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
You don't need a cleco in each hole all the time. Every third hole or less
will hold it together, but when drilling an area or riveting, using more is
helpful. Some times all you need is one or two to help the sheet from
flopping. These are TEMPORARY, remember you have to take each one out to
rivet.
-----Original Message-----
From: Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 4:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: clecoes
>
>
>Calling all builders....
>
>I'm building both my RV-8 wings at the same time, and I've just calculated
>that I'll need about a thousand 3/32 clecoes in order to drill the top and
>bottom main wing skins on in order to drill and rivet the leading edge
>skins.
>
>While few builders on this list would ever consider selling their hard-won
>steeds, there might be a few of you with a bucket of silver clecoes that
>you wouldn't mind parting with. Name your price.
>
>Respond to me off-list at nknobil(at)gwi.net
>
>Thanks!
>
>Nick Knobil
>Bowdoinham, Maine
>RV-8 Wings in the jigs
>
>P.S. Does anyone think I'm nuts to do this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Larsen <larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net> |
Regarding strobes:
I seem to recall the Van's accessory catalog indicating that each strobe
will flash at only half the intensity if wired for simultaneous trigger.
Just something else to consider if it's true.
Jim
-6 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
Cessna 140 group ,
pietlist , RV List
| Subject: | Source for fiberglas wheel/skis ??? |
Seems to me that sometime in the past, some outfit offered fiberglas
wheel/skis that had a cut-out in the bottom for the main gear tires to
stick down through about an inch or two, allowing you to fly on snow or
on pavement without having to change from either wheels or skis. Sounded
like an ideal and relatively cheap setup. Now that I have an
experimental, I'd like to find out where I could procure a set. Any
leads greatly appreciated!
--
Scott
1986 Corben Junior Ace
N3642
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re:Corsair-Bounced e-mail |
Hi Listers,
I tried sending Austin an off list, e-mail, but it bounced. Looks as though
he's pulled the plug. If anyone knows his new number, please let me know, as
I would like to say thanks for his fine words.
G'day to y'all
Ken Glover - Newcastle Australia
ion that you are looking for is covered in CAR Reg 17 Location
of markings and CAR Reg 18 Size of markings. Info can be viewed at
www.casa.gov.au or call at the Bankstown District office (Sydney) Phone 02
9780 3043 Fax: 02 9780 3045. The gal who looks after rego's is Joanne Twist.
Hope this helps.
Ken Glover - Newcastle Australia (just north of Sydney) RV4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Access cover |
NO! The hole in the skin is stronger than the skin as you are putting a
doubler to mount the cover. The stress path goes around the hole via the
doubler. This is the approved sheet metal fix when cutting a hole in a
stressed member, for instance, for a strobe light. If you think that 4 to 6
screws are the stress path, then you had better double their number or at
least match the number of rivets.
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Access cover
>
> Question: has anyone installed the cover by means
>>other than the plate nuts? I am considering a hinge and flush
>>hartwell snaps ( have a bunch of them ). This might be a bad idea, I
>>don't know if the screwed on
>>cover is supposed to provide some strength that a hinge/snap
>>arrangement
>>would not.
>>
>I think it would be a bad idea because Yes you are reducing the skin
>strength in this area if you would delete the screws. Using screws in
>the plate helps return some of the lost skin strength in this area when
>the hole cutout is made.
>Considering the minimal access required inside the wing in this area I
>don't think it is worth taking a chance with something that has never
>been tested.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
Listers,
The time has come when I need to get in flight insurance. Presently, I have
coverage with Avemco, but have read on the list of others that are more
reasonable. Can't get into the archives, I think Matts server is down, so a
few suggestions with phone numbers would be much appreciated.
\why do I need insurance?, today I started and taxied my RV-6 for the first
time... what a feeling after six years of work! Very hard not to just goose it
and go, but I restrained myself, still need FAA sign off. That much talked
about grin has already started. Thanks for the help.
Gary Bray
RV-6 N827GB
Almost there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
Glad to hear you found the source of the fumes. That could have proven to be
dangerous.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Jig Free!! |
Hello all,
I'm pleased to report that I took my fuselage out of the jig a few days
ago. What a great feeling! After three years, I'm caught up with the
Quickbuild kit!
Anyway, I have a jig (6 or 6A) available to anyone who needs it. This
jig was built by Stan VanGrunsven about four years ago and is ideal for
limited space situations. It is boat shaped which makes it a little easier to
work around at the tailcone stations as well as taking up less space. It is
made of Douglas fir and plywood and put together with deck screws. Nothing
fancy, but works just fine. The legs come off but the frame needs to
transport in one 14 foot piece.
Mine is the fourth fuselage fabricated on it. Jerald Hall and, I think,
Randall Henderson were the other users after Stan.
I'm located in Ridgefield, Washington which is close to I-5 about 25
miles north of Portland, Oregon. My home phone is 360 887-3196 Work: 360
694-3040. First person who can come and get it can have it.
Thanks,
Dale Wotring
RV-6A #24531
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
It was good meeting you today. I am sorry you had to drive all that way
but I am glad you came down.
Gary Sobek posted about an air-show at George. Will you be going? Sounds
like it might be fun.
Brian Lloyd Livingston Enterprises, Inc.
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
(916) 676-6399 - voice (916) 676-3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | New Lycoming prices? |
Hi all,
I'm curious, has anyone ever compared Van's special price to any of those
places that advertise "$300 over wholesale"? How do they compare?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
I had a similar problem, but no fuel smell in the cockpit from it. I was
able to solve the seepage problem without removing the fuel tank, it might
work for you as well. I was getting some seepage from the 3 o'clock
position on the access door, and from 2 of the screws. Giving the screws an
extra half turn stopped the leak at the gasket, but the screws still leaked.
You can get at the screws from the bottom of the airplane with a very stubby
screwdriver and/or a 90 degree angle screwdriver. (Sears sells a 'z' shaped
one with a Phillips on one end and a flat on the other for a few dollars)
I then drained enough fuel from the tank to get it below the position of the
screws and pulled the screws and put a thin coat of fuel lube on them.
Worked great. I didn't like the idea of Proseal on them either. They
wouldn't leak, but it wouldn't be much fun getting them off again.
I ended up pulling all the screws and coating them with fuel lube just to be
safe. It isn't exactly easy getting at the screws through the bottom of the
wing/fuse gap, but a lot easier than removing and re-installing the tank
IMHO.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>7] ***the located source of the leak***
>Fuel was seeping from the access door on the root end of the left tank.
>At this panel, it was actually seeping from three different places. One
>was through about 1/4" of the cork gasket. The other two were through 2
>of the screws that hold the panel on via internal platenuts. The fumes
>then came into the cockpit via the opening in the fuselage at the wing
>root (for the aileron push tubes).
>
>The solution will be to remove the tank and reseal the door with a new
>cork gasket, and perhaps some pro-seal on the screws and platenuts to
>prevent it from happening again. Actually, I would prefer to find some
>fuel proof material that I can coat the screws with besides pro-seal.
>Pro-seal makes a permanent bond that will be hard to break through if I
>should need to remove the access panel once again. Thank you to George
>Orndorff for pointing me to the actual location.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corsair post |
Anthony, this was a very nice letter to Corsair and the group. As long as people
do things like this we won't have the same thing going on like in RAH. I
personally liked the corsair post, but I knew some wouldn't. I found it a change
from the "all building" atmosphere that we are all in. My 6 is in the fuselage
jig
and some times I just have to get away from it. I hope to get going again this
week, now that it has cooled off from the summer.
Soon as your 8 is finished I want you to tell me how it flies as well as all the
pride and gladness that you have stored inside you...
Phil at Litchfield, IL
Anthony K. Self wrote:
>
> Ok. everybody, I give up. I am the one that started all this mess. I
> personally don't like reading the kind of stuff Corsair posted, but
> apparently a large portion of you do. I have also received as many posts
> that agree with me, but none of them seem to want to put their neck on the
> line like I did, by saying it to everyone. I have followed the list on and
> off for quite a while and I try to remain silent the biggest part of the
> time. To answer some of your questions, I have not started one yet. I've
> worked avionics and electronics for several years and have followed RV's
> since 1991. I will get an RV8 started soon. I apologize to Corsair for a
> public flame, I was fed up with a lot of the posts and I probably should
> have thought about it before I did it. Ok, sorry for starting this mess,
> let's just agree to stop it here and now, I'll keep my mouth shut.
>
> Anthony
>
> | --- |
> | --- |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
In a message dated 10/18/98 1:04:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net writes:
<< Gary - Now you have me real confused. I thought that any 'nut - bolt'
combination
that would be able to rotate after assembly shall be cotter pinned (such as
the
rudder cable to rudder horn clevis bolt).>>
The difference is that these parts rotate on each other without a bearing. In
these installations (rudder peddles to rudder cable) I use a cotter pin or
safety wire. When a bearing is involved (such as aileron attachment, , rudder
attachment...) I use nyloc nuts.
<< All other fastenings that do not rotate can be fastened with a nyloc nut ,
or, if in a high temp area an all steel lock nut. Now the rear spar does not
rotate but is just a clamping area. Are you cotter pinning this joint just for
the added safety or is there another reason? >>
Only reason I can think of is that was what the plans called for!?# Here's
another use of a cotter pin that doesn't rotate...the engine mount. It is a
location that is subject to high vibration though. That could explain their
use.
Time for an explanation from one of the true experts...
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Hook-up |
>If the strobe supplies that you are using have the capability, there is
>three connector plugs on the supply.
>One of them is labeled Synch.
>you run a cable between these 2 connectors and they will trigger
>together.
Why not run the sync wire to a switch. This will allow you to select
independent or synchronized flashes as your level of "coolness" dictates.
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, Ga.
Engine at Barrett's----Singing the cam and crank blues. ($$$$$$$$$)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
>Gary - Now you have me real confused. I thought that any 'nut - bolt'
combination
>that would be able to rotate after assembly shall be cotter pinned (such as the
>rudder cable to rudder horn clevis bolt). All other fastenings that do not
rotate
>can be fastened with a nyloc nut , or, if in a high temp area an all steel lock
>nut. Now the rear spar does not rotate but is just a clamping area. Are you
cotter
>pinning this joint just for the added safety or is there another reason?
Through aerodynamic flexing, this can be considered a rotational joint and,
therefore, a castelized nut is appropriate.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | securing wiring in engine bay |
Dear List,
I am tidying up the last of my engine bay wiring. Where I have significant
wiring bundles I have used Adele clamps (? related to the penguins) to
stand the wires off from the engine mount.
I have some fiddly little wire runs with only one or two wires (to the
primer solonoid for instance). I have been wondering how to secure these
against vibration. I wondered if just tying them to the engine mount or
other structures (control cables, fuel hoses etc) was acceptable practice.
If so, can one use the waxed thread used for cable bundling, are cable
ties OK, is there some other solution?
I have somewhere in the back of my mind that cable ties gradually abrade
their way through things under vibration.
In the same vein, what have people used to secure aluminium brake and vent
lines in the cabin? I am a little reluctant to drill lots of holes in my
structure to mount Adele clamps. I wondered if the odd splodge of RTV would
both fix these lines and isolate them from vibration (well... a little).
Thank you for your help.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Dear List and especially those lucky members flying,
Is there any point if having a cabin speaker in an RV. I have carefully
wired in cables for a speaker but I noticed Bob Nuckoll's comment that he
was yet to see a homebuilt quiet enough to use a cabin speaker. Maybe I can
save a pound?
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Hello again group;
Just got done with pounding some 3/16th rivets on my left wing spar. Used
the Avery tool/3lb hammer method, and went well except for three rivets.
Two of them have just a slight space on one side of the maufactured head,
and another is quite "proud" in that there is quite a space between the
manufactured head and the spar web. My question/plea for support is
this.....should I just leave this one really bad rivet, or take a chance and
try to drill it out. As fate would have it, it is one of the the longest
rivets.
My gut tells me to leave it alone, but the anal-retentive side of me wants
to drill the bugger out. Please, oh please guys!! Tell me to just leave it
alone!!!! The other two rivets don't bother me as much as this one does.
Three out of I'm not sure how many rivets doesn't seem too bad to me. I'm
sure that once I move on, I'll get over it.
What do you think, gang?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings
Peshtigo, Wi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lettering (Australia) |
Here they are and they just as obtuse as our own FAA!
Size of marks.
45.9 (1) Except as provided in regulations 45.4(4) and 45.6, each registered
operator of an aircraft shall display registration marks on the aircraft
meeting the size requirements in this regulation.
(2) Except as provided in regulation 45.5 and 45.6, the nationality and
registration marks must be of the same height as each other.
(3) Aircraft marks required by this Part for fixed-wing aircraft must have
the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides of the
aircraft.
(4) If an aircraft displayed markings in accordance with Division 2 of the
CARs immediately before the commencement of this Part, the aircraft may
continue to display those marks and need not comply with the height
requirements until such time as the aircraft is repainted or the marks are
repainted, restored, or changed.
(5) Except as provided in paragraphs (4), (6) and (7), in the case of a
fixed-wing aircraft, the markings on the wings shall be at least 500 mm high
and the markings on the fuselage, or equivalent structure, or the vertical
tail structure shall be at least 300 mm high.
(6) In the case of a glider, the marks must be at least 75 mm high;
(7) In the case of an aircraft for which an experimental certificate has
been issued under regulations 21.191(d) or 21.191(g) for exhibition purposes
or for operating as an amateur built aircraft, where the maximum cruising
speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS, the marks must be at
least 75 mm high.
Of course we all know that 300 mm is just a hair under 12 inches....
RIGHT????
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Glover <kage(at)idl.net.au>
Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: lettering (Australia)
>
>
>Karl Ahamer wrote>>
>
>>
>>hi fellow builders,can anyone tell me what the requirements are in regards
>>to letter size for aircraft identification on wing and fuse?
>>thanks
>>Karl Ahamer
>>near Sydney
>>RV6AQ
>>painting.....
>Hi Karl and other Aussies listers,
>The information that you are looking for is covered in CAR Reg 17 Location
>of markings and CAR Reg 18 Size of markings. Info can be viewed at
>www.casa.gov.au or call at the Bankstown District office (Sydney) Phone 02
>9780 3043 Fax: 02 9780 3045. The gal who looks after rego's is Joanne
Twist.
>Hope this helps.
>Ken Glover - Newcastle Australia (just north of Sydney) RV4
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Putting air in tires |
I put a one inch hole in my wheel pants with a plug so that I could add air to
the tires without taking off the wheel pants. I painted a mark on the tires
so that when the mark was at the bottom, the valve stem was at the hole. I
bought some hex type valve stem covers that I can remove with a nut driver
through the hole. I then screw on a valve stem extension and air up the
tires. Works great.
Jim Cone
thout a Vise Grip. I wrapped the nose of the Vice Grips in my windshield
rag and clamped in on the rudder cable in front of the spar bulkhead. It
worked great and when I forgot to remove it before landing it was easily
pushed ahead with the rudder pedal. ( I checked this right off cause I knew
I would forget it)
This lead me to consider making a rudder friction lock out of a nylon block
and an overcentering lever. Instead I made a new wedge and havent needed
anything since. But I still think a lock on the right rudder cable that
could be easily overpowered would make a good solution. Anybody else have
thoughts?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
If you stick with AVEMCO and have been in the inspection by EAA Tech
Counselors, and use a flight advisor, you are covered on first flight. I
think that other insurance companies will NOT insure for the first 10 or 100
hours. Hopefully you have the option if you have been in the program.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rvbirdman(at)aol.com <Rvbirdman(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:insurance
>
>Listers,
>The time has come when I need to get in flight insurance. Presently, I have
>coverage with Avemco, but have read on the list of others that are more
>reasonable. Can't get into the archives, I think Matts server is down, so a
>few suggestions with phone numbers would be much appreciated.
>\why do I need insurance?, today I started and taxied my RV-6 for the first
>time... what a feeling after six years of work! Very hard not to just goose
it
>and go, but I restrained myself, still need FAA sign off. That much talked
>about grin has already started. Thanks for the help.
>Gary Bray
>RV-6 N827GB
>Almost there!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Lord Conical Mount Bushings(Part 2) |
Thanks to Ken, Charlie and others who responded to my question about
alternative bushings for conical mount engines. Here's what I've
learned so far. Lord has at least two styles that might be appealing
alternatives to the basic rubber bushing for RVers with conical mounts:
-Lord part number J-6230-1 about $75 per pair
This is a rubber bushing encased in a metal housing and has a separate
bushing/spacer that fits between them. If you're replacing traditional
bushings, expect the engine to move about 0.100" to 0.125" further
forward on the mount and you may have to go to a 1/4" longer mounting
bolt if you barely had enough bolt with squeezed down simple conical
bushings.
-Lord part number J-7401-2 about $35 per pair
This is the bushing recommended for Pitts's with conical mounts. It
has the backing washer and a simple metal bushing bonded to what looks
like the good ol' traditional rubber bushing. I've been told that Pitts
drivers routinely replace these every year or two.
I replaced my two lower mounts (the two that really wear out fast) with
the J-6230-1's. I left the top two with the same (100 hr) old simple
bushings. There was significant improvement in vibration dampening,
even though vibration wasn't a big problem for me before (I thought!).
I tested for engine flexing during acro by using duct tape built up on
the cowling at some known borderline tight spots, did an acro hop (+ 5.4
/ - 2.2 G), and pulled the cowls. Voila, no rubbing at all....
definitely less flex than with traditional bushings. Remember, these
observations were made with just the two lower mounts changed. I would
guess that the differences would be even more noticable if I had changed
all four.
Now, I'll just 'have' to go fly lots and lots of acro so I can check out
the durability, which was the reason for looking into this in the first
place. Any donations to help fund this vital research would be
appreciated. ;)
Mark
RV-4 owner
WA state
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corsair post |
Bravo, Anthony. Oops! I wasn't supposed to say anything.
Sorry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I went with SkySmith. He went through AIG. I have 30k hull, and
1 mil. liability. Cost 800.00 per year. I have 1400 total, 3 or
4 hundred tailwheel. 140 in type. This will give you something
to compare with. This price, by the way, is the same thing AOPA
came up with. I only went with SkySmith because he got the
better price first, because the guy at AOPA didn't know AIG would
cover experimentals. SkySmith phone#
1-800-743-1439. Talk to Scott, and you can use my name and
quote.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
>The solution will be to remove the tank and reseal the door with a new
>cork gasket, and perhaps some pro-seal on the screws and platenuts to
>prevent it from happening again. Actually, I would prefer to find
>some
>fuel proof material that I can coat the screws with besides pro-seal.
>Pro-seal makes a permanent bond that will be hard to break through if
>I
>should need to remove the access panel once again.
I use tank sealant to seal on the cover plate, the fuel level sender, and
for sealing all of the screws.
It is not as hard to remove the cover or the sender as you might think,
should you ever have to open it up to get inside.
I have done it a couple of times myself, though I would rather not say
why.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net> |
Folks:
I haven't said much on the net, but there is some incomplete information
the net and thought I'd share what I know on this subject.
Cracks in metal almost always originate in material that is a state of
tension. The stress state of a local piece of metal is sum of residual
stress and applied stress. Shot peening is one of several processes
which cause the surface of a sample of metal (gear leg) to have a high
residual compressive stress. If the residual stress is high, then
applied tension must be very high to "overpower" the compressive stress,
and crack initiation is resisted.
Now the howevers:
1. Not all materials respond as well as others to shot peening. In
general, ductile steels, and steels heat treated to be ductile respond
far better than more brittle alloys and heat treat conditions.
2. Crack initiation also is triggered at stress risers (kinks, sharp
defects, score marks, scratches, tool marks, etc) and defects (metal
impurities, weld inclusions, and the like) and geometry changes such as
diameter changes. Presence of stress risers will usually overcome
peening.
3. Mechanical damage after peening can defeat the advantages.
4. This is not a process which is intuitive or obvious. Results are
not always what you might expect, some process control and testing is
advisable.
5. High compressive and residual stresses combined at a point can also
cause problems.
Hope this is useful backgroound information for some of the listers.
Ken Smith, RV6 empanage languishing in idle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
A cabin speaker would probably prove to be useless while in the
air, judging from the noise encountered in the 3 or 4 different
rv's I have flown in. Of course, you might be planning on using
a larger aftermarket amplifier and fancy speakers. too. I keep
forgetting these are experimental airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
I would leave it alone. You run the better than average chance
of enlarging, or distorting the hole if you drill it out. I
know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I went with AON, now AOPA, first time around and they covered the
first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
Never Slack off when it comes to quality riveting especially those big big
ones
Dwain Harris
RV-6
N164DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
Check the archives on this, I think it was recommended that you seal the
tank with something else besides the cork gasket. I think it may have been
suggested that you make a gasket out of proseal? Anyway, an experienced
builder who looked at my quickbuild last week told me to throw out the cork
gaskets. Also, RTV gasket sealant could probably be used to seal those
screws, and it stays pliable.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>The solution will be to remove the tank and reseal the door with a new
>cork gasket, and perhaps some pro-seal on the screws and platenuts to
>prevent it from happening again. Actually, I would prefer to find some
>fuel proof material that I can coat the screws with besides pro-seal.
>Pro-seal makes a permanent bond that will be hard to break through if I
>should need to remove the access panel once again. Thank you to George
>Orndorff for pointing me to the actual location.
>
>Andy
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
>Hello again group;
>
>Just got done with pounding some 3/16th rivets on my left wing spar. Used
>the Avery tool/3lb hammer method, and went well except for three rivets.
>Two of them have just a slight space on one side of the maufactured head,
>and another is quite "proud" in that there is quite a space between the
>manufactured head and the spar web. My question/plea for support is
>this.....should I just leave this one really bad rivet, or take a chance and
>try to drill it out. As fate would have it, it is one of the the longest
>rivets.
>
>My gut tells me to leave it alone, but the anal-retentive side of me wants
>to drill the bugger out. Please, oh please guys!! Tell me to just leave it
>alone!!!! The other two rivets don't bother me as much as this one does.
>Three out of I'm not sure how many rivets doesn't seem too bad to me. I'm
>sure that once I move on, I'll get over it.
Jeff,
.... compare your rivets against the MIL Spec to see if they are in
compliance, and at an acceptable strength.
A copy can be found at my web site:
http://www.flash.net/~gila
... probably the one that is pround should be replaced, but the
others may meet the spec. Read the spec. and compare against your rivets.
I would say that _all_ of the wing rivets should be full strength rivets.
Good luck, and drill out any rivets carefully...:^)
Gil (glad to read a real RV question, and not person-to-person
chit-chat) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit.
>
>What do you think, gang?
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A 25171
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
Leo,
Forget it!! while people on the list will probably launch into great lists
of techniques for reducing the noise level in an RV, you can't beat a good
headset. Some of the latest generation of noise canceling headsets are quite
amazing and are well worth a try.
Anyhow that's my 2c worth.
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Leo Davies [mailto:leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU]
Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 10:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: cabin speaker
Dear List and especially those lucky members flying,
Is there any point if having a cabin speaker in an RV. I have carefully
wired in cables for a speaker but I noticed Bob Nuckoll's comment that he
was yet to see a homebuilt quiet enough to use a cabin speaker. Maybe I can
save a pound?
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Glass Panel Displays |
Listers,
I'm planning to put a glass panel in my RV using two multi-function
displays, flight/engine and nav. I've looked at most of the commercial
offerings and have pretty much decided to roll-my-own. One problem I've
got is finding a cost effective sunlight readable display (>700 NITS). Has
anyone else gotten serious about this and found a good source for displays?
I'd also love to hear from anyone else using or seriously contemplating
any MFD system, commercial or home-grown. There used to be another list
called "Glass Panel" but it seems to have died. Anyone know if it moved or
of any other vehicle for exchanging info on glass panels?
Thanks for your help.
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 Smooth Cowling |
I really like the new smooth cowl on the RV8 and would like to do the same
on my RV6. I'm plan on using a parallel valve IO-360 with an Airflow
Performance injector and know I can't use a bottom mounted injector and
still streamline the cowling. Does any one know what the clearances are
with either a front or rear facing injector? Can a rear facing injector
even fit in a 6? I've heard you can swap sumps to change the injector
mounting but that forward facing are hard to find and expensive. I'm not
too concerned about duct losses at this stage. I have virtually no
experience in this area so I would welcome any and all comments from you
engine savvy types out there.
Thanks.
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass Panel Displays |
I'm running a new mailing list talking about experimental avionics,
avionics(at)analogia.com. I've announced it here, there are currently about 44
members over there, and it would be another good place to ask this
questions. People are also talking about an experimental traffic avoidance
tool, although that discussion has been quiet recently.
If you (or anyone here) wants to join this list, send email to
avionics-subscribe(at)analogia.com.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 10:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Glass Panel Displays
>
>Listers,
>I'm planning to put a glass panel in my RV using two multi-function
>displays, flight/engine and nav. I've looked at most of the commercial
>offerings and have pretty much decided to roll-my-own. One problem I've
>got is finding a cost effective sunlight readable display (>700 NITS). Has
>anyone else gotten serious about this and found a good source for displays?
> I'd also love to hear from anyone else using or seriously contemplating
>any MFD system, commercial or home-grown. There used to be another list
>called "Glass Panel" but it seems to have died. Anyone know if it moved or
>of any other vehicle for exchanging info on glass panels?
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Greg Young
>RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Hook-up |
<< I seem to recall the Van's accessory catalog indicating that each strobe
will flash at only half the intensity if wired for simultaneous trigger. >>
This is not true if you have separate power supplies for each strobe lamp.
Each one is independent and will flash at full intensity, regardless if you
have them sync'd or not.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Important Information |
ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION
For those interested in RV-8 investigation update and conclusion information:
Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site.
RV-6A owners, Service Bulletin 98-10-1 has been issued (link on homepage):
Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site before further flight.
For those interested in all published Service Bulletins:
Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site.
For those interested in the RV-9:
Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site.
For those who have a Van's Aircraft Accessories Catalog:
Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site to download updated catalog pages.
http://www.vansaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacBooze(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -8 Wing spar, Platenut rivet holes |
RV-8 Builders,
Take Caution!!! When drilling the platenut rivet holes, in the main spar
(BOTTOM flange) for the fuel tank screws. The first six platenut rivet holes
(from the root) should be offset from the lateral just as the TOP flange
(PP) holes are, to clear the main wing ribs.
I screwed up and had to modify a no hole yoke for my hand squeezer by
grinding off a portion of the upper arm to fit and set the rivets. Luckily,
there was enough room to clear the ribs and set the rivets.(Dodged another
bullet!!)
FWIW,
Greg
Starting Rt. Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cotter pins & safety wire |
>>
>> The cotter-pin is used where the rear-spar and fuselage join.
>>
>> Gary Corde
>> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>>
>
> Now the rear spar does not rotate but is just a clamping area. Are you cotter
>pinning this joint just for the added safety or is there another reason?
>
When you start flying you will notice that the wings do move slightly.
Every thermal or added G causes the wing to flex a little. Over time this
could loosen a nylock nut at the rear spar location. There are lots of nuts
on the front spar, on the rear, there is only one and I would not want it to
come loose.
Tom Martin
HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting air in tires |
Jim, where did you get the hex type valve stem covers and Price??
Ed Anderson
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
JamesCone(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I
> bought some hex type valve stem covers that I can remove with a nut driver
> through the hole. I then screw on a valve stem extension and air up the
> tires. Works great.
>
> Jim Cone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
We have been very satisfied with both the rates and service through Aviation
Underwriting Agency (AUA) and we get a free t-shirt every year! Call Mac
McGee at 800-727-3823.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | New Lycoming prices? |
I have obtained prices from this company, which is called Airpower, Inc..
As of July 30, 1998, their price for a factory remanufactured 0-360 A1A
(part number 8794) was $16,793. To this one must add $6,000 if one does not
have a core to give them. The price on a 0-320 D1A was $11,199, to which
one must add $5,800 if one does not have a core.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Van's new engines look like a pretty good deal, don't they?
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Duffy [mailto:rv8(at)mindspring.com]
I'm curious, has anyone ever compared Van's special price to
any of those
places that advertise "$300 over wholesale"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> If you stick with AVEMCO and have been in the inspection by EAA Tech
> Counselors, and use a flight advisor, you are covered on first flight. I
> think that other insurance companies will NOT insure for the first 10 or 100
> hours. Hopefully you have the option if you have been in the program.
>
> >
> >Listers,
> >The time has come when I need to get in flight insurance. Presently, I have
> >coverage with Avemco, but have read on the list of others that are more
> >reasonable. Can't get into the archives, I think Matts server is down, so a
> >few suggestions with phone numbers would be much appreciated.
> >\why do I need insurance?, today I started and taxied my RV-6 for the first
> >time... what a feeling after six years of work! Very hard not to just goose
> it
> >and go, but I restrained myself, still need FAA sign off. That much talked
> >about grin has already started. Thanks for the help.
> >Gary Bray
> >RV-6 N827GB
> >Almost there!
> >
> >
I called Avemco about first flight insurance, they wanted 2400.00$
for the first year of flight insurance. The hull value was 45,000.00$,
the pilot ( my uncle ) has about 5000 hours of flight time.
They will offer first flight insurance, but be prepared to pay for it.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
Corsair,
PLEASE DON'T LEAVE THE LIST.
Doug Gray
Corsair wrote:
>
>
> Please let us now stop all the posts about Corsair and get back to what the
> list is for. I deeply regret having been the cause to set brother against
> brother and would never have imagined that my actions would detract instead
> of add to your enjoyment. Please, let us stop now and let me express my
> thanks to all for the good I got from the list..................Corsair
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
Last night a friend of mine showed me the high-speed wheel pants he just
installed on his -4, and he is unhappy. Installed per the directions,
there isn't even two fingers of ground clearance. Looks like a formula for
damage on a less than perfect surface or on low tire pressure. Does anyone
have experience in this regard? My friend is not happy and is not
recommended them for the extra $$$. I was going to order them for the
extra speed, but ...
Chris Browne
-6A
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
You don't want RTV in your fuel system.
Anytime you use RTV and you see some squeezed out on the outside, remember
there is the same amount squeezed out on the inside.
Gas attacks RTV, pieces then break off and plugs things like screens, float
valves and carb jets. RTV also swells after long contact so after in gets
in a small place, it lock its self in. Great for sealing oil leaks, but bad
inside a fuel system.
It is especially bad in fuel injection systems with their smaller holes.
Don't use RTV in fuel systems.
-----Original Message-----
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel smell located
>
>
>Check the archives on this, I think it was recommended that you seal the
>tank with something else besides the cork gasket. I think it may have been
>suggested that you make a gasket out of proseal? Anyway, an experienced
>builder who looked at my quickbuild last week told me to throw out the cork
>gaskets. Also, RTV gasket sealant could probably be used to seal those
>screws, and it stays pliable.
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 Page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>>The solution will be to remove the tank and reseal the door with a new
>>cork gasket, and perhaps some pro-seal on the screws and platenuts to
>>prevent it from happening again. Actually, I would prefer to find some
>>fuel proof material that I can coat the screws with besides pro-seal.
>>Pro-seal makes a permanent bond that will be hard to break through if I
>>should need to remove the access panel once again. Thank you to George
>>Orndorff for pointing me to the actual location.
>>
>>Andy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Comfort <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab??? |
larry k. daudt wrote:
>
>
> I would like to build into my rudder a movable tab.
> Anyone who has sucess with this, please forward your ideas.
Larry: In response to you and Doug R. I offer these comments.
I agree that a movable rudder trim tab is desireable. I built my RV-4
with everything as straight as I could, including the fin. The result
was a need for right rudder, particularly in climb conditions and to a
significant degree in cruising flight. I addressed this in two ways.
First I taped a balsa wood wedge to the rudder trailing edge and trimmed
its length until it was balanced for cruise flight. However, as I built
more time in the aircraft and was experimenting with performance
characteristics at different speeds I wanted some adjustment. Since my
aircraft never needed any left rudder trim (Van's yellow -8 did, by the
way) I added a spring system to the right rudder system by attaching it
to the rear seat rudder pedal and a lever that could be adjusted from
the cockpit. The presence of the spring system was not particularly
noticeable when maneuvering but if enough tension was added to correct
for all flight conditions it became annoying in taxiing or pushing the
bird around on the ground. I usually would forget to release the trim
before leaving the cockpit.
Consequently, I now use a wedge on the rudder that is about half the
length of the earlier one and the bungee to handle the rest of the trim
needs. This allows me to trim for cruise so that my feet are not needed
at various cruising speeds and also trim for lengthy climbs if desired
and is tolerable on the ground. An anecdote; before the bungee system,
after cleaning the aircraft prior to a trip from Michigan to Florida, I
forgot to reinstall the original wedge. The continuous requirement for
right rudder was so tiresome that my wife would spell me with her right
foot.
I have sketched up an electric trim tab system for the RV-8 rudder which
I have not yet built. When I start cutting metal it may change slightly
but I believe the concept is OK. Of course it will be quite some time
before it flies. The late Ed Lesher counciled me to make the system as
stiff as possible and then to test it. Really test it. That will be
the nervewracking part.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
Have a PS Engineering, four place, portable intercom, works just fine, will
sell for $150.00, reply off line to Charles(at)Onramp.Net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Call Scott Smith at Skysmith International 515-289-1439
He specializes in insurance for RV's...
Avemco qouted me $2100 for the first year..Skysmith quoted me $1500 for the
same policy..This was for $50k hull and first flight, $1,000,000 liability,
etc...I only have 100 hours TT...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit Almost Here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Rear Spar Dimpling |
Mike,
Another technique is to use a cleco in every hole rather than every other.
Takes more clecos but the skins don't more nearly as much.
Bob
RV8#423 working on wings
>>
>On the other hand, I learned a lesson on my elevators to _always_ rivet
>the skeleton before drilling he skins! The clecos allow _some_ movement
>and I found that after drilling the skins to a clecoed skeleton, then
>riveting the skeleton, the holes on the skins were off just a tad. Not
>much in most areas, but a tad in others (root rib) which says they didn't
>rivet together the same as they were clecoed despite using the technique
>of remove a celco, replace with rivet, all the way along.
>Haven't done the wings yet, but I'll be keeping the elevator fiasco in
>mind.
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 emp details, waiting on wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting air in tires |
Anderson Ed wrote:
>
>
> Jim, where did you get the hex type valve stem covers and Price??
>
> Ed Anderson
> anderson_ed(at)bah.com
I'm not Jim, however I purchased a package of four of them at
Auto Zone just last week. Price, about two dollars.
Carroll Bird RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
<< Last night a friend of mine showed me the high-speed wheel pants he just
installed on his -4, and he is unhappy. Installed per the directions,
there isn't even two fingers of ground clearance. Looks like a formula for
damage on a less than perfect surface or on low tire pressure. Does anyone
have experience in this regard?
snip
Where are you measuring the two fingers? In front, behind the tire, or at the
end of the tailcone? What manufacturer?
I've got the same dang thing on my ship now using Gary Hunter's "Pushy Pants"-
very low clearance behind the tire. The pants hit those little blue reflectors
on the taxiway and scrape themselves up. I'll raise 'em a bit this winter, or
at least re-paint the damage. At present, I can only get a pc of 063 angle
under 'em for a wheel chock- not really ideal. If I had two fingers'
clearance, it would be enough, tho. Keep in mind- the tighter you have 'em
fitted up, the lower the drag- speed ain't free.
Also, I operate from a grass strip, and have had no damage from that sort of
operation- only the 'drunk bumps' on the taxiway. I'd say leave 'em for a bit,
and see if any damage occurs. Your friend will need his own chocks, tho. The
std issue 2X4 types at most FBO's just won't work.
Check six!
Mark
HR2 299 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting air in tires |
Thanks Carroll
Ed
Carroll Bird wrote:
>
>
> Anderson Ed wrote:
> >
> >
> > Jim, where did you get the hex type valve stem covers and Price??
> >
> I'm not Jim, however I purchased a package of four of them at
> Auto Zone just last week. Price, about two dollars.
>
> Carroll Bird RV-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)avici.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
>
Hello Michael,
I have been web searching in vain for such a tool. Do you have
any info on how I could obtain one of these? Either a place I can buy
one or a manufacture/model I could search for? Thanks.
Cheryl Sanchez
>I went to the local Marine supply house and purchased their battery
>cable crimping tool; I think it was a whopping $8 or something like
>that.
>
>This tool can crimp 0, 1, 2, 4, etc. cable onto the standard lugs.
>The instructions suggest hitting the end with a hammer, but I just
>placed the assembly in my vise and squeezed. The tool has an automatic
>limiting stop to prevent overcrimping. Several of the local builders
>have been using this tool.
>
>Michael Pilla
>
>Scott Gesele wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> There is a special crimping tool, but it is very expensive. You may be
able
>> to take your cables to an electrical supply house and have them crimped
>> there. I made a set of dies out of 1" thick aluminum and used a large vice
>> to crimp my #2 connections. Another method to strengthen up your current
>> crimps is to "nail" a few small pieces of copper ground wire into the front
>> end of the connection. This will act like a wedge. After you have a good
>> mechanical connection, it is a good idea to solder the terminal for
>> additional security. A standard Radio Shack soldering iron has no
chance of
>> heating up a #2 terminal, so I used a torch. Be sure to put a heat sink on
>> the wire, right behind the terminal, as you only want the solder within the
>> terminal area and not to wick into the wire past the terminal. This would
>> make the cable brittle.
>>
>> You do not want insulation in the crimp. It is imperative to get a good
>> electrical connection here.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: securing wiring in engine bay |
| From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
On Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:31:39 Leo Davies writes:
>I have some fiddly little wire runs with only one or two wires (to the
>primer solonoid for instance). I have been wondering how to secure these
>against vibration. I wondered if just tying them to the engine mount or
>other structures (control cables, fuel hoses etc) was acceptable
practice.
>If so, can one use the waxed thread used for cable bundling, are cable
>ties OK, is there some other solution?
Leo,
A tech counselor showed me this technique for securing wires, cables,
etc. to one another where they cross at an angle. It requires two cable
ties. Fasten the first around one wire but do not pull it up snug, thread
the second cable tie through the first and then around the second wire.
Pull both ties tight. The method even works for securing SCAT tubing to
engine mounts.
Regards,
Bob, RV-6 N976RH
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
>I had a similar problem, but no fuel smell in the cockpit from it. I was
>able to solve the seepage problem without removing the fuel tank, it might
>work for you as well.
FWIW, I received a tip about tightening these screws when I was building a
few years ago. Use allen head cap screws instead of phillips head screws on
the access cover and sending units. It's a lot easier turning an allen
wrench than a screw driver in this location without removing the tanks.
I also found that the cork gaskets I used leaked pretty bad, so ended up
pro-sealing new cork gaskets in place, haven't seen a drop of fuel since.
If you ever need to remove them, cut them off with a razor blade.
Dave Hudgins
RV-6A Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Van's Pages |
Listers,
I just noticed a bunch of updates on Van's home page. He has a detailed
article about the RV-6A nose gear, more info on N58RV and other updates.
The -6A nose gear bulletin details mandatory inspections for the nose gear.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Delveau, Jim" <JDelveau(at)FHLBDM.com> |
When a com radio is installed is a speaker required by the regs? Seems
like I heard this somewhere.
Jim Delveau
RV-6 Installing baggage compartment floor/back wall.
> >Is there any point if having a cabin speaker in an RV. ....noticed
> Bob
> Nuckoll's comment that he was yet to see a homebuilt quiet enough to
> use a
> cabin speaker.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
> >So, moral of this story: when shopping for materials from other than
> >known aircraft suppliers....make up a story about what the parts are
> >going to be used for!
I once made the mistake of telling a gas station attendant that the oil
I was about to dump into their oil recycle tank was from an airplane.
He gave me the bum's rush and had to go some place else to dump the oil.
Needless to say, I kept my mouth shut at the next place.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
Mlfred(at)aol.com on 10/19/98 11:17:10 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 Piece Wheel Pants
Mark -
<< Last night a friend of mine showed me the high-speed wheel pants he just
installed on his -4, and he is unhappy
snip
These are Van's wheelpants, and I couldn't easily fit my two fat fingers
immediately behind the tire.
This is the conclusion we both came to, and the extra speed was a
questionable value versus raising the pants or installing the standard
ones.
It is a simple issue of cost/benefit, I guess. I am rethinking the extra
money. It's not as if the standard pants are inadequate.
Chris Browne
-6A
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Putting air in tires |
I got my valve covers at Parts America. They are also available at Auto Zone.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
I have a speaker that I use to get ATIS and clearances with before I start. I
don't plan to put it in my new QB because it is not all that important and I
can just use the headset. It is way too noisy to use a speaker when the
engine is running, even though I have quite a bit of sound proofing. The
speaker is heavy too.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 plans (P31) Question |
I am doing the tip up canopy and am working parts F-645 and F-646.Section A-A'
and Section G-G show that the flanges are turned opposite each other.It
appears A-A' is looking outboard and shows 646's flanges in and 645's out,
but section D-D' clearly shows 646 flanges turned out. Which way is it and
does it make any difference down the road?
TIA
Bernie Kerr, 6A, working in fuselage, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
David Hudgins wrote:
>
>
> >Is there any point if having a cabin speaker in an RV. ....noticed Bob
> Nuckoll's comment that he was yet to see a homebuilt quiet enough to use a
I installed a cabin speaker right behind the roll bar (tip up canopy) in
the channel that runs to the baggage bulkhead. I used a external cell
phone speaker which came in a neat little plastic enclosure and wire
mesh grill. I installed a resistor to make the speaker work with the
intercom. I always start my engine with headsets off to listen for any
odd noises etc. I will often start to taxi and monitor ATIS on the
speaker. The speaker is audible in flight when I am at 55% power or
less.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
Can you restrike them. I would rather have a shop head abit flat than have a
gap under the manuf. head. Perhaps a squeezer(the one from Van) or a 4X rivet
gun and a few good wacks(like two or three) with the offending rivet well
backed up would let the head seat down. I got the premade spar for just this
reason. I tend to agree with you--drilling them out may do more damage than
leaving them. Perhaps you could make up a practice piece with scrap or
hardware store extrusion of similar thickness and arrangement and practice
drilling out and also try restriking to see if you have success before doing
the real thing. I have "drifted" rivets that were proud--often an indication
the shank is not fully swelled by striking then with a heavy gun once or twice
NOT backed up (support the piece however) and then when the gap is gone place
the bucking bar behind the rivet and give it a couple more wacks. JR-A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Important Information |
'Listers,
Well, I think the Van's Aircraft web site answered fully any questions about
Van's response to the RV-6A nosegear problem. I expected no less from a
first-class company.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
confident Van's Aircraft customer, probable repeat offender
>
>RV-6A owners, Service Bulletin 98-10-1 has been issued (link on homepage):
>Please visit the Van's Aircraft web site before further flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet access(e-mail
only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions reached by
Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Listers,
>
>I just noticed a bunch of updates on Van's home page. He has a
>detailed
>article about the RV-6A nose gear, more info on N58RV and other
>updates.
>The -6A nose gear bulletin details mandatory inspections for the nose
>gear.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
Hi Scott,
Thanks, got the info this morning. I found their approach on both issues
reassuring. I know Jon was somewhat critical of Van's actions following
the RV-8 incident. Primarily due to the lack of information. But as we
can see Van took the high road and kept quiet until he had results he could
post with confidence.
Looks like the same approach with the 6A nosegear, although I did not read
that entire report.
All is well here. I'm actually moving forward quite well on the main wing
spar. Should be priming it this Sat and maybe start riveting Sat or
Sunday. I know Tom wanted to get involved so I will give him a call when I
get close to the spar riveting. Dad is moving along on rib prep. Progress
(again)!
Talk to you soon,
Dave Lundquist
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
In a message dated 10/19/98 9:41:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com writes:
> Last night a friend of mine showed me the high-speed wheel pants he just
> installed on his -4, and he is unhappy. Installed per the directions,
> there isn't even two fingers of ground clearance. Looks like a formula for
> damage on a less than perfect surface or on low tire pressure. Does anyone
> have experience in this regard?
I installed the two piece pants on my RV-4, and have the same two finger
clearance. I also was not happy with the clearance, and thought I'd just
leave them on until I tore them up, then put back on the one piece I initially
installed (took those off cuz I wasn't happy with the tight fit around the
brakes)
Well, 8 years and approx. 625 hours later, I still have the two piece on.
Other than being scratched on the rear underside, they've held up fine (and
that includes trips into quite a few rough sod/gravel strips)
Tom
San Antonio (cleaning mud out of the hangar after flooding at the Bulverde
airport. I was lucky...a couple other RV-4 owners had 10" to 2 feet of water
in their hangars, taxiways destroyed.....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting air in tires |
Thanks Jim
Ed
JamesCone(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I got my valve covers at Parts America. They are also available at Auto Zone.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscirbe from this crap! |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sat Oct 17 15:10:24 1998
>Received: (from daemon@localhost)
(PDT)
>From: "Anthony K. Self" <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Unsubscirbe from this crap!
>Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:06:08 -0500
>X-Priority: 3
>Message-ID: <0c43544062211a8UPIMSSMTPUSR05(at)email.msn.com>
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>It's stuff like Corsair's attempt at creative writing that makes it too
hard
>to keep up with all the posts. And to all you soft hearted, easily
impressed
>cry babies, I hope we never meet in person.
>
>
>Goodby!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
> I believe there is no evidence to show that one is any better than the
other. >When inverted neither can be opened but I believe most in the
situation
>have found that the canopy broke up enough for them to pull off some
>pieces and crawl out. Carrying a tool that would allow you to break
>through the canopy if needed, might not be a bad idea. (maybe something
>light like a piece of thick wall 4130 tubing with one end cut off at a
sharp >angle).
>
>Scott McDaniels
I am building the tip up on a 6A. If I build with the eject pins &
install the air stuts, Will the stuts be riped off? or should I use bolts
with the stuts & plan on NOT getting up side down (on the ground)?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | securing wiring in engine bay |
>I have some fiddly little wire runs with only one or two wires (to the
>primer solonoid for instance). I have been wondering how to secure
>these against vibration.
>Leo Davies
>leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
Leo:
If you cut about 1/4 inch of hose offf say 1/4 to 3/8 size & run an
electrical tie over the cable or mount arm then thru the hose then over
your wires, it will stand-off the wires & not fret on the mounts. Last
about a year, then inspect.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 plans (P31) Question |
>
>
> I am doing the tip up canopy and am working parts F-645 and F-646.Section A-A'
> and Section G-G show that the flanges are turned opposite each other.It
> appears A-A' is looking outboard and shows 646's flanges in and 645's out,
> but section D-D' clearly shows 646 flanges turned out. Which way is it and
> does it make any difference down the road?
>
> TIA
> Bernie Kerr, 6A, working in fuselage, SE Fla
>
Bernie - It does make a difference. F-646 must have the flanges facing outward
as
this rib is the outer part of the hinge for the canopy. Part F-644 is the inner
part for the hinge block. You are correct that the F-645 is attached the opposite
way. Have fun building - it gets a lot better from now on!
Hope this helps
Doug Murray
RV-6 working on canopy front metal trim.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
So when is someone going to invent retractable wheel pants?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: securing wiring in engine bay |
And there are the little stand-offs made with rubber hose and nylon ties - seem
to be standard but not in the books...
Poke the tie thru a short piece of small diameter hose. Wrap tie pointy end
around item to be attached to then poke it back thru hose and wrap around item
to be attached. Then insert and tighten.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
<< I've tried to put grease into the rear tire hub bearing but the fitting on
the hub is recessed just enought such that I cannot get my grease gun on it.
>>
You can make a special ground fitting, or get one of those needle adapters for
your gun. Use a good grade of grease, and grease this fitting every oil
change.
The first time you fill the hub, you'll swear that your gun is broken. Keep in
mind that you are filling the hub for the first time.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Landoll Balancer |
Anyone have a Landoll Balancer for sale. If so please mail me off the list
with the price and details, also include your home phone #.
chet razer
razer(at)midwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
Thank you all for your suggestions. It seems that I was not clear about
what I meant by a "splice." I wasn't referring to tying into an existing
wire (which would require the "T" type splice or cutting the wire and
having one wire going into the connector and two coming out). I am just
talking about the run of the mill hooking up of electrical devises which
have short wires coming out of them such as the MAC 8A servo.
The options I looked at were soldering, the PIDG butt splice, and the Molex
type connectors. I was leaning away from the soldering because of the
brittleness issue. I am going to use some of the Molex type where I think
disconnecting will or may be needed in the future. I am not sure about
their use in areas where no future disconnection's are seen (other than the
failure and replacement of the unit.) Gary, you may want to comment on
this since you indicated, " I do not have a single splice in my flying
RV-6. I do have a lot of AMP (Molex) connectors that join wires." It
seems to me that a permanent joint has less chances for failure than a
Molex style pin connector. Bob mentioned the MAC servos, "do present a
unique problem" when using the PIDG butt splice.
The pigtails on the MAC are 26 gauge and AMP part number 323994 is made for
26-24 [0.12-0.24] AWG [mm].
http://connect.amp.com/AMP/bin/AMP.Connect?C=1&M=BYPN&PN=323994&button.x=83&
button.y=11
I agree that MAC could change the wire size but was wondering why the 26
AWG "present a unique problem."
At this point, I will use the PIDG butt splice with a length of heat shrink
tubing over it to provide moisture protection. In areas I need/want a
Molex style connector, I will use an AMP Circular Plastic Connector (CPC)
(AMP part number 206705-3 and 206708-1) which have moisture proofing and
stress relief options.
http://connect.amp.com/AMP/bin/AMP.Connect?C=1&M=BYPN&PN=206705-3&button.x=5
0&button.y=3
I am using MultiMate Type III, Gold (30) over Nickel (50), solder contacts
(AMP part number 66182-1 and 66180-1) with these CPC's. I decided on
solder because of the cost of the tools required to use the crimp
connectors and the low number of these I will use.
Thanks for your help. Any further suggestions and comments are always
welcome as I haven't started this yet and am more than willing to change if
necessary.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
In a message dated 10/19/98 3:06:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com writes:
<< I've tried to put grease into the rear tire hub bearing but the fitting on
the hub is recessed just enought such that I cannot get my grease gun on it.
The fitting of my gun is larger than the recess hole on the tires hub. I
don't what to put an extension on the tire as it might upset the balance.
What has other done? >>
I don't know what it is called but I use a grease fitting that looks like a
pin. You insert the pin directly into the hole in the fitting next to the
tire.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
From: Corsair <tinckler(at)axionet.com>
To: Boyd Butler
Subject: Re: List
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 12:29 PM
enjoy the part of avation that they like. Have fun enjoy two rv3s you
know what they are dont you? Or are you too new to remember those old
fellows, sn 245 on one and 750 on the other kit. See Ya and hope to see
your name on the list often.
Boyd, You've got me. I am not new but I can't connect those kit #s. Please
help me out..............Further, I have quit the list as of today. I will
not be back.. Before long, I will also change my address. I think it is
time I backed away....I must take a look in the mirror. I have pissed off
so many people lately. My brother has not spoken to me for a year because
he did not get an invitation to my daughter's wedding,.. My son, whom I
love more than anything no longer calls me because I told him his new girl
friend will ruin him (questioning his judgment),...The list fiasco...my
formation buddy is dead..it goes on....
Speaking of aviation, I received a call this morning from a guy in
California. We talked about RVs and lots of things just because he wanted
to. We must have talked for an hour because I found my primer all dry when
I went back to check.
What a great time.. and I don't even know this guy from Adam. We touched
on
things like the difference between Americans and Canadians, what freedom
means to us, WW2, (because of a mutual acquaintance who flies a 6A was in
the Luftwaffe and serviced electrics and machine guns on Me109s)
People are people and they can be wonderful....I'm going back to the
basement, cat following, put down my mug of tea and pass my fingertips
over
another set of lovely RV wings and gear down for the Winter...
I know it sounds cornball, but I feel that my 6 is my friend now, because
of familiarity, comfort, dependability and for taking me to lofty and
beautiful vistas where sometimes other fliers gather. Smiles break out all
around.
This has to be good for me and the RV opens a pathway to my soul....Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Janis, Erik" <ErikJanis(at)downeysavings.com> |
If anyone is interested is a comment from a 'lurker' (still trying to
convince the wife that I need an RV in my life), but how about the concept
of an jack/receptacle for a simple earplug 'speaker'.
I assume, due to the loud environment, the only reason one would need a
speaker is if one's headset or related hardware fails. One could place the
little ear 'possum in one ear and cover up with the same headset you are
using in the plane.
No worries about excess weight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Can you restrike them. I would rather have a shop head abit flat than have a
> gap under the manuf. head. Perhaps a squeezer(the one from Van) or a 4X rivet
>
If the rivits in question are those in the area of the wing walk on the RV6, I
was
told because there is a #3 bolt every three rivits in this area most of the load
is carried by the bolts, the odd imperfect rivit in this area is not critical
regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
I put a "needle" attachment on the grease gun. It has a very small
opening with which you can push on the grease fitting internally (the
little hole with the ball valve). The standard fitting is too big to fit
over the grease fitting because the recess in the tailwheel is too
small.
Chuck Dunlap
RV-4 N914RV 620 hrs
RV-6 airframe mostly done, getting Mazda motor ready for first start!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com> |
| Subject: | attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire |
West marine has a hammer type crimper listed their catalog - supposed to be
good for #6 through #4/0 wire - part # 214080 - $19.99 - call 1-800-262-8464
John Higgins - RV-8 - waiting on QB to arrive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cheryl Sanchez
> Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: attaching wire connectors for #2 or #4 wire
>
>
>
> >
>
> Hello Michael,
>
> I have been web searching in vain for such a tool. Do you have
> any info on how I could obtain one of these? Either a place I can buy
> one or a manufacture/model I could search for? Thanks.
>
> Cheryl Sanchez
>
> >I went to the local Marine supply house and purchased their battery
> >cable crimping tool; I think it was a whopping $8 or something like
> >that.
> >
> >This tool can crimp 0, 1, 2, 4, etc. cable onto the standard lugs.
> >The instructions suggest hitting the end with a hammer, but I just
> >placed the assembly in my vise and squeezed. The tool has an automatic
> >limiting stop to prevent overcrimping. Several of the local builders
> >have been using this tool.
> >
> >Michael Pilla
> >
> >Scott Gesele wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Rick,
> >>
> >> There is a special crimping tool, but it is very expensive. You may be
> able
> >> to take your cables to an electrical supply house and have them crimped
> >> there. I made a set of dies out of 1" thick aluminum and used a large
> vice
> >> to crimp my #2 connections. Another method to strengthen up your
> current
> >> crimps is to "nail" a few small pieces of copper ground wire into the
> front
> >> end of the connection. This will act like a wedge. After you have a
> good
> >> mechanical connection, it is a good idea to solder the terminal for
> >> additional security. A standard Radio Shack soldering iron has no
> chance of
> >> heating up a #2 terminal, so I used a torch. Be sure to put a heat
> sink on
> >> the wire, right behind the terminal, as you only want the solder within
> the
> >> terminal area and not to wick into the wire past the terminal. This
> would
> >> make the cable brittle.
> >>
> >> You do not want insulation in the crimp. It is imperative to get a
> good
> >> electrical connection here.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps.
> >>
> >> Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
I am planning a Rockford Fosgate 300W 4 channel amp, with two Pyle Driver
18" woofers, and some titanium dome tweeters in my -6A. It should be a
bumpin' system then...now lets see who wins the "Crank It Up" contest at
Oshkosh next year!
Paul Besing (Kenwood and Rockford Factory Demo Pilot)
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Installing Stereo System
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
If you are talking about the tail wheel grease fitting, take it off, and
plug the hole.
Having a Zerk fitting might have been nice for a flight school on a Champ
but for high speed landings of an RV it is out of place.
If you use the grease fitting, the first thing that happens is you have to
fill the entire wheel cavity with grease just the get the grease to the
bearings. This adds unnecessary weight in wrong place many times.
The when the wheel is rotated at high speed, it warms the grease, the grease
expands and is forced out through the seals and is thrown out all over the
tail of your nice clean airplane. The same thing will happen to your main
wheels if the cavity is filled. The grease doesn't have any where to go but
out. The grease will attract and hold any dust or grit that happens as you
taxi.
Fortunately the amount of grease needed for your wheel bearings is very
small. Unless you constantly taxi through deep standing water, the grease
only needs to be repacked at annual time after cleaning and checking the
bearing and races. Force a small amount of Disk Brake wheel grease in
between the retainers, coating the rollers or balls and put it in the races
until next year.
How to force the grease in? Just place a small ball of grease about the
size of a golf ball OR less in the palm of your hand and press the bearing
into it. Do it several times to do the entire bearing. When you have it
coated and filled, you are done. Scrape the excess back into the grease
container. If you don't like the grease on your hands, put the bearing and
grease in a baggie and squeeze it.
But don't use the grease fitting!!! If you do, you will have a mess. The
tail wheel as it comes from the factory has enough grease for the first
year. You might want to check so you know how little grease these bearings
really need.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 2:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting
>
>I've tried to put grease into the rear tire hub bearing but the fitting on
the hub is recessed just enought such that I cannot get my grease gun on it.
The fitting of my gun is larger than the recess hole on the tires hub. I
don't what to put an extension on the tire as it might upset the balance.
What has other done?
>
>Gary RV-6 20038, still finishing, N38GK reserved.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
In reading the final report (and giving a sigh of relief!), I noticed the
reference to the electric trim being found in the full down position. I
have never had electric trim, but is it possible that during a time when
the pilot was distracted in some way (such as reading a map, etc.), the
electric trim malfunctioned and went to full down trim, followed by an
over reaction by either the pilot or the passenger in pulling out of the
dive, resulting in an overload?
I have heard some pretty scary stories in the past regarding runaway
trim, so I wonder if it's possible? Just a thought.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
THIS is another reason to get a REAL ISP. There are nice color photos that
speak volumes. The money you save by using Juno might just cost your life if
you are looking for graphics during building and weather when flying.
Recommendations for Flying RV-6A Aircraft:
Vans aircraft recommends that owners/operators of flying RV-6A aircraft
complete the following inspection procedure before further flight:
Remove the U-603 Nose Gear Leg from the aircraft.
Trim the wood/fiberglass gear leg fairing if/as required to expose the gear
leg for polishing. Exercise caution when trimming the fairing so as not to
scratch the surface of the nose gear leg. The lower cowl can be used as a
marking template to determine the maximum extent of fairing trim.
Polish the full circumference of the area in question (see figure 1) to
remove any superficial surface blemishes. Use strips of progressively finer
grit sandpaper or emery cloth. The abrasive strips should be worked over the
area in question using a back-and-forth motion much like when using a soft
rag to polish a shoe.
Clean any sanding residue from the area in question using a solvent dampened
cloth.
Inspect for small cracks that could propagate and eventually cause failure.
A visual inspection using a magnifying glass is considered minimum with a
dye penetrant inspection or magnetic particle inspection recommended. See
note below.
Nose gear legs without cracks may be returned to service. The nose gear leg
inspection procedure must be repeated at each annual inspection or 100
flight hours, whichever occurs first.
Nose gear legs having cracks must be replaced with a current production nose
gear leg before further flight. Photograph 2 shows a typical crack under dye
penetrant inspection. The nose gear leg inspection must be repeated at each
annual inspection or 100 flight hours, whichever occurs first.
Note: Nose gear legs may be returned to Vans aircraft for polishing and
magnetic particle inspection. Polishing and inspection will be done free of
charge but the operator must pay for shipping to and from Vans Aircraft.
Excluding shipping, the gear leg turnaround time will be three working days.
As an alternative, a dye penetrant inspection kit is available free of
charge from Vans Aircraft. The inspection kit must be returned promptly so
that it can be made available to other RV-6A operators.
Recommendations for RV-6A Aircraft Under Construction:
RV-6A builders must be aware that scratches in the area of concern will
adversely affect the durability of the nose gear leg. Vans Aircraft
recommends that RV-6A builders use extreme care so as not to scratch the
area in question during installation and/or shaping of the nose gear leg
fairing. Scratches other than those caused by the manufacturing process are
likely to be significantly deeper than .0005 inch and, therefore,
potentially much more detrimental to the service life of the gear leg.
RV-6A Nose Gear Leg Design Revision:
A re-designed RV-6A nose gear leg is currently in prototype production and
testing. This change is expected to increase localized upper end strength by
over 40% and it is hoped to increase fatigue life by an even higher
percentage.
Langair Machining, the supplier company for RV landing gear legs, has
recently fabricated an apparatus for accelerated life cycle testing of nose
gear legs. While the level of scientific accuracy of the testing is not
adequate to predict nose gear leg service life, it has already provided some
valuable insight into nose gear leg failure modes and failure progression.
In particular, it was found that after the first detection of cracking, the
gear leg continues to function for approximately 21% more loading cycles
before eventual failure. In other words, the onset of cracking did not
signal imminent failure. However, per inspection procedure item #7, Vans
Aircraft recommends immediate replacement of the nose gear leg any time
cracks are noticed. Another preliminary finding from the accelerated life
cycle testing is that the shallow machining scratches mentioned in the
"Background and Introduction" section of this service bulletin do not appear
to reduce the fatigue life of the nose gear leg. Photograph 1 shows the
shallow machining scratches under magnetic particle inspection.
Fatigue failure is usually manifested by surface cracking at the point of
highest stress. Photograph 2 shows a typical crack under dye penetrant
inspection. Further stress will cause the crack to enlarge. As a result, the
effective cross section and strength of the nose gear leg will decrease.
Thus, each future load will cause a higher stress and an accelerated rate of
crack growth. Failure can eventually occur as a result of normal landing or
even taxi loads.
In addition to the material quality factors already mentioned, the
service/fatigue life of the nose gear leg can widely vary due to operating
conditions. These include pilot take-off and landing technique and runway
surface conditions.
The nose gear leg of the prototype RV-6A operated by Vans Aircraft
withstood 1600 to 1700 hours of operation before being replaced several
years ago. The replacement was for reasons other than the subject of this
service bulletin, so the nose gear leg was not inspected for cracks. Because
the aircraft was used as a demonstrator, this particular nose gear leg had
withstood an abnormally high number of landings, most on a grass runway. The
nose gear leg which had experienced apparent fatigue failure had 1000 to
1100 hours of flight use but an otherwise unknown operating history.
RV-6A Nose Gear Leg Replacement Policy:
At present, any RV-6A operator who discovers cracks in his nose gear leg
should contact Vans Aircraft for a replacement part. As soon as the new,
re-designed nose gear leg is fully developed and in production, it will be
made available to all RV-6A operators and builders at a yet to be determined
price.
Conclusion:
An update letter will be sent to all RV-6A operators and builders as more
nose gear leg development and testing is completed. The urgency of
SB-98-10-1 is directed to current RV-6A operators for immediate action.
-----Original Message-----
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Updated Van's Pages
>
>Listers;
>Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet access(e-mail
>only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions reached by
>Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
>Thanks.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>writes:
>>
>>Listers,
>>
>>I just noticed a bunch of updates on Van's home page. He has a
>>detailed
>>article about the RV-6A nose gear, more info on N58RV and other
>>updates.
>>The -6A nose gear bulletin details mandatory inspections for the nose
>>gear.
>>
>>Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Van's Pages |
I'm sure someone more qualified will present a summary soon, but in the
meantime, I would be happy to send the complete files via e-mail as an
attachment to anyone without web access. The files are in "pdf" format,
which means you will need a viewer. I think the RV-8 article is about 250K
and the 6A article about 150K. If you want me to send them to you, please
reply off-list, with the words "file request" in the subject line. I'm sure
Van's won't mind the copyright infringement :-)
Louis Cappucci
RV-6AQB just gettin' started...
Mamaroneck, NY
louis.cappucci(at)gs.com
>>Listers;
>>Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet
access(e-mail
>>only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions
reached by
>>Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Von Alexander
>>RV-8 N41VA
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
Von (and others without internet access):
Van got an independent engineering company to test the RV8 wing. The wing was
tested to 6 gees (service load limit) and 9 gees (ultimate load limit) without
failure but with some distress at the ultimate load limit. Considerable discussion
was given to explain the difference what that the 9 gee limit is a one time only
load condition to save your neck. The wing was to be discarded if it ever was
taken up to loads that high. This summary does not due justice to the caution
which was given not to exceed 6 gees. In conclusion, the RV8 wing design was found
to be fine. The failed spar must have pulled very high gees at some point, but
it
did not appear to have occurred at the time of failure.
The RV6a nosegear had some batch related surface defects which reduced the
fatigue life of the part. All RV6as are subject to 100 hr or annual inspections
to
check for cracks. If cracks are found the gear must be replaced. There is also
an
AD to polish the gear at the critical point (part of the checking process) or you
can send it to Van's and they will do it for you. New nose gears will be
strengthened 40%.
Van did the right thing in the right way, and, in a very short amount of time.
No
one could ask for more.
ANYBODY that is affected by these issues should get the full information from
Van's. He is contacting the RV 6a owners directly. Anyone who interprets the 6
gee
vs 9 gee discussion as meaning that they can pull over 6 gees will not pass these
genes along to any new children.
Regards:
Joe Walker
Panelizing
RV6
Houston
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
> Listers;
> Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet access(e-mail
> only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions reached by
> Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
> Thanks.
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> writes:
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I just noticed a bunch of updates on Van's home page. He has a
> >detailed
> >article about the RV-6A nose gear, more info on N58RV and other
> >updates.
> >The -6A nose gear bulletin details mandatory inspections for the nose
> >gear.
> >
> >Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Listers;
>Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet access(e-mail
>only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions reached by
>Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
>Thanks.
>
The RV-8 wing failed due to overstress in excess of 9 g's due to unknown
reasons.
The RV-6A nose gear leg may have scratches from the machine work. Owners
should inspect for such and polish out if they exist. Inspect every 100
hours for cracks. New design in works.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
driver
>through the hole.
I found a short piece of rubber hose that fits over the original valve stem
cap that works to take the cap off and on; won't over-torque that sucker.
>I then screw on a valve stem extension and air up the tires. Works great.
I bought four extensions (get the metal ones; don't bother with the black
plasic ones) and two screwed together gets on the stem really nicely. Airing
the tires is a 5 minute job.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
AT-6 Acro today!!!!!!!! (Christmas present)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
tell th wife it will get u to las vegas fast
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
>
>Listers;
>Would somebody update those of us who do not have internet access(e-mail
>only, such as Juno) regarding the RV-8 and RV-6A conclusions reached by
>Vans. Just a short summary would be fine.
>Thanks.
>
Von -
The RV-8 update recaps the NTSB report and related info, and the results of
metallurgical, static, and flutter tests (ground vibration tests). The
static and GVT tests were done under supervision of FAA Designated
Engineering Representatives (DER's).
The NTSB report and witness observations basically state that N58RV pitched
up sharply, made a loud noise, and lost part of the left wing in flight.
The actual sequence of events was not very clearly stated. It turns out
that one of the witnesses was an 11 year old girl looking through the rear
window of a car, and the other a ranch foreman who may have not actually
seen the crash himself. The left wing spar failed near the outboard end of
the fuel tank. The right spar also failed, apparently due to ground
contact. The airplance spun in from about 1000 feet. Computer chips from
the Vision Microsystems engine monitoring system recorded that the engine
was running at maximum cruise and that the flight was 12 minutes long.
They also found the electric trim set at max nose down (not due to the
crash), but the reason for this is unknown. The G-meter had been removed
prior to this flight.
Th metallugy report shows no evidence of corrosion, fatigue, or other
weakening of the structure prior to the crash. There was also no indication
of reverse loading (a sign of flutter).
The static test took a customer-built wing to ultimate load (9G) twice (at
two different angles of attack corresponding to Va and Vne) without
failure. There's a lot of text and some photos about how the test was
designed and the loading envelope for the airplane, and the difference
between design and ultimate load. Apparently the wing showed relatively
little permanent deformation even after supporting ultimate load. They did
not load the wing to failure, and did not test it for negative (inverted)
loads.
The ground vibration testing indicated that the wing should be free from
flutter within the design performance envelope. These tests involve
shaking the wing with a special device and measuring the resultant
vibrations.
Van's concludes that there is nothing wrong with the design, and that the
failure must have resulted from an overload. They don't speculate on how
this might have happened. They are removing the temporary flight
restrictions (utility category), and do not plan to redesign anything.
They will be mailing a letter to all RV-8 builders and pilots that
describes recommended procedures for conducting safe aerobatics.
Alan Carroll
Madison, Wisconsin
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walsh, John" <jwalsh1(at)unifi.com> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: n41va(at)Juno.com [SMTP:n41va(at)Juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 4:23 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: N58RV UPDATE
>
> the
> electric trim malfunctioned and went to full down trim, followed by an
> over reaction by either the pilot or the passenger in pulling out of the
> dive, resulting in an overload?
>
[Walsh, John] I read it and was wondering the same thing. Remember
"true confessions"
a month or two ago? Several reports of pulling 5g's when surprised.
Imagine two pilots at 1,000 agl and 170 or so indicated ( 30 or so above Va
) when the nose dives. It's not hard to imagine both guys pulling hard in a
purely reflexive reaction. We'll never know of course but it is plausible.
It would be interesting to set up such a scenario in an RV simulator
(somebody call Flight Safety and tell them to build one ). I'd be willing
to bet that 90% of us would not survive it.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
>
>Thank you all for your suggestions. It seems that I was not clear about
>what I meant by a "splice." I wasn't referring to tying into an existing
>wire (which would require the "T" type splice or cutting the wire and
>having one wire going into the connector and two coming out). I am just
>talking about the run of the mill hooking up of electrical devises which
>have short wires coming out of them such as the MAC 8A servo.
>
>The options I looked at were soldering, the PIDG butt splice, and the Molex
>type connectors. I was leaning away from the soldering because of the
>brittleness issue. I am going to use some of the Molex type where I think
Ross,
I am not sure if this is accepted technique but when I have to spice two
wires I make a Z shape in the wire and slide heatshrink over the whole
structure (then shrink it yeah?). My logic here is that there is now no
vibration load on the solder stiffened portion of the wire.
I have a few of these in my wiring so I hope this technique is acceptable.
(Bob?)
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: securing wiring in engine bay |
Many A&Ps have applied nylon wire ties in my Debonair's engine compartment and
they seem to be acceptable to several very fussy IAs.. When I've put them on I
put a layer of shrink tubing around the wires first to help prevent abrasive
damage. Doing them full tight probably makes abrasion less likely.
Another criticsm of nylon ties is they aren't heat and flame proof which waxed
thread certainly isn't.
As I understand, the need is to reduce flapping in the wind which eventually
causes wires to break.
I used lots of little glue attach pads to anchor wiring to the airframe. Blobs
of RTV might work but they offend my aesthetic sense.
hal
> I have some fiddly little wire runs with only one or two wires (to the
> primer solonoid for instance). I have been wondering how to secure these
> against vibration. I wondered if just tying them to the engine mount or
> other structures (control cables, fuel hoses etc) was acceptable practice.
> If so, can one use the waxed thread used for cable bundling, are cable
> ties OK, is there some other solution?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
Some one has... Jim Bede. He had wheel pant that by pumping a hydraulic
pump enclosed the entire wheel after takeoff. To land you opened a valve,
the door would open exposing the wheel and you landed. I think he even had
as STC for Cessna 182 for about $800.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 Piece Wheel Pants
>
>So when is someone going to invent retractable wheel pants?
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Jeff,
Take it out, but don't drill it all the way out. Just drill the head
off-- then drive the rest out with a pin punch. Sometimes it helps to
drill a smaller hole down through the rivit shank (say 1/8") before
driving it out. Be sure to back up the back side with some thing like a
socket resting on a sturdy surface.
Regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
In a message dated 10/19/98 12:05:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JRWillJR(at)aol.com writes:
<< Perhaps you could make up a practice piece with scrap or
hardware store extrusion of similar thickness and arrangement and practice
drilling out and also try restriking to see if you have success before doing
the real thing. >>
Now that is an idea that makes sense! Why take chances?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
In a message dated 10/19/98 11:51:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, randall(at)edt.com
writes:
<< I was about to dump into their oil recycle tank was from an airplane.
He gave me the bum's rush >>
I'll bet you all didn't realize that the expended oil from your airplanes was
"Tainted".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
Tom,
Sorry to hear of the flooding. Is Ivan's (newly painted?) airplane okay?
Tom Craig-Stearman
>
>Tom
>San Antonio (cleaning mud out of the hangar after flooding at the Bulverde
>airport. I was lucky...a couple other RV-4 owners had 10" to 2 feet of
water
>in their hangars, taxiways destroyed.....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop Info |
A couple of months ago there was a thread on the RPM limitations for
Hartzell C/S props with O-360 engine. Someone posted the URL for a pdf
version of the TC data sheet (FAA pub P920) that applies. I went and got
that but now want to see if there's a data sheet for the HC-F2YL and
HC-M2YR hubs, which aren't listed on the P920 data sheet. I can't get
to the archives right now (server's down?) or track it down under the
FAA database. Can the person who directed me to the pdf file for P920
perhaps refresh my memory?
Thanks
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landoll Balancer |
<< Anyone have a Landoll Balancer for sale. >>
I've been told by others that the primary benefit (increasing flywheel effect)
of the balancer can be realized by installing the Landoll weight ring, so you
may want to try one of these instead of the balancer. Dynamic balancing is
also a good value.
Don't know for sure, as I have the heavy Cs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
<< I am planning a Rockford Fosgate 300W 4 channel amp, with two Pyle Driver
18" woofers, and some titanium dome tweeters in my -6A. It should be a
bumpin' system then...now lets see who wins the "Crank It Up" contest at
Oshkosh next year! >>
If you could get a good cassette tape recording of a P-51 you could play it at
120 dB during a low pass and really wake 'em up.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splices |
<< I am going to use some of the Molex type where I think
disconnecting will or may be needed in the future. I am not sure about
their use in areas where no future disconnection's are seen (other than the
failure and replacement of the unit.) Gary, you may want to comment on
this since you indicated, " I do not have a single splice in my flying
RV-6. I do have a lot of AMP (Molex) connectors that join wires." It
seems to me that a permanent joint has less chances for failure than a
Molex style pin connector. >>
Obviously the most reliable connection is a contiguous piece of wire. One of
Bob Nuckoll's laws is, "Things break". When they break, you must replace
them.
You can take one of two roads. One school of thought says that you can always
cut and install connectors later if needed during replacement of an item. The
other says that you design for ease of replacement.
My own personal choice is to make the eventual replacement task easier, but I
also make sure that my connections are as reliable as I can make them. That
means using airframe wire, good commercial quality components, proper crimping
tools and correct termination techniques. The Molex connectors have been used
in many installations over the years and provide good service as long as they
are not in an environment where they may be subjected to corrosive chemicals,
lubricants or explosive atmospheres.
For these more severe environments one needs to consider a Mil-spec (MIL-
C-5015, MIL-C-38999 or similar) type connector with noble metal contact
plating, environment resistant housings and more precision mating features.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Hook-up |
>
>>If the strobe supplies that you are using have the capability, there is
>>three connector plugs on the supply.
>>One of them is labeled Synch.
>>you run a cable between these 2 connectors and they will trigger
>>together.
Why not run the sync wire to a switch. This will allow you to select
independent or synchronized flashes as your level of "coolness" dictates.
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, Ga.
Engine at Barrett's----Singing the cam and crank blues. ($$$$$$$$$)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Runaway Elevator Trim |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
I posted this earlier under 58RV, but I think most of you missed it,
assuming that it was a review of the news release from Vans. In reading
the report on the RV-8 crash, I noticed that they mentioned they found
the electric trim in the full down position. I have never had electric
trim before, but would it be possible that if the pilot was distracted,
such as by reading a map, etc., that the electric trim(due to malfuction
or short) could suddenly go to full down resulting in a dive? Then the
pilot, and perhaps the passenger too, might pull back too suddenly
resulting in overstress of the wing? Is this possible or likely? I have
read alot of scary stories about runaway electric trim, not only on RVs,
but certified as well. Just a thought to ponder.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel smell located |
In a message dated 10/18/98 9:39:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net writes:
<< Also, RTV gasket sealant could probably be used to seal those
screws, and it stays pliable.
>>
Please dont do that. RTV and gasoline are not compatible Cure some
then
immerse in a can of gasoline, you`ll see, Fred LaForge RV-4 ready for
inspection, I feel a grin coming.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
With a 3/16" rivet, drill about 1/4" short of clear through with a 1/8"
drill then use a 1/8" punch down the hole to drive it out. Works very well
for long rivets. and as Bill said support the opposite side. If you just
drill off the head, then the punch will swell up when drive and might not
drive out. Drilling almost through relieves the side pressures.
-----Original Message-----
From: William R. Davis Jr <rvpilot(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: proud rivets
>
>Jeff,
>
>
>Take it out, but don't drill it all the way out. Just drill the head
>off-- then drive the rest out with a pin punch. Sometimes it helps to
>drill a smaller hole down through the rivit shank (say 1/8") before
>driving it out. Be sure to back up the back side with some thing like a
>socket resting on a sturdy surface.
>
>
>Regards, Bill, N66WD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
This sounds interesting ... but, what happens to the portions of the rivet
which have expanded into the chamfered (deburred) areas between the spar
strips (I believe that it was a -6 spar)? I would caution against possibly
damaging those spar strips. Remember, the rivets through the spar rivets
are essentially loaded in shear, and not in tension, so if the only gap is
under the head, and not between the spar strips, you've lost no measurable
strength with only one "bad" one.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
Funny neighbor comment regarding hanging 300 pound plus engine on fuselage:
"That's like mounting a 3 horse router on a beer can!"
> Take it out, but don't drill it all the way out. Just drill the head
> off-- then drive the rest out with a pin punch. Sometimes it helps to
> drill a smaller hole down through the rivit shank (say 1/8") before
> driving it out. Be sure to back up the back side with some thing like a
> socket resting on a sturdy surface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | 2 Piece Wheel Pants |
Or make the main gear completely retractable like that RV-4 (I think) in
Canada!
-Larry
RV-8 Rudder. Just placed order for wings.
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 Piece Wheel Pants
Some one has... Jim Bede. He had wheel pant that by pumping a hydraulic
pump enclosed the entire wheel after takeoff. To land you opened a valve,
the door would open exposing the wheel and you landed. I think he even had
as STC for Cessna 182 for about $800.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 Piece Wheel Pants
>
>So when is someone going to invent retractable wheel pants?
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
you can use a needle fitting on the regular fitting.
Rv4 273sb
s a bad idea. It is a
form of 'speculation' on the crash of N58RV, and we don't want to start
that again, do we? Sorry about that.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
I converted my tail wheel to sealed bearings
to eliminate the grease slinging of the original
wheel bearing.
RVer273sb
talking to Van's
about this insted of the usual "don't worry about it, make it fit" answer they
said it should just bolt up, turns out on the second look they agreed it needs
the notch. Thanks for reply.
Regards,
Warren Moore
MOOREWAR(at)aol.com
almost have a canoe.
>
I'm sorry, I am not sure what this question is asking.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
I tend to agree with the two fellas who also posted on this subject--if you
decide to drill them then you would only drill the head of and then use a
punch to drive it out--not drill through the entire rivet which most likely
would ruin the hole. Again practice makes perfect on big dollar/time things
like your spar. I also bet the gentleman who said the rivets share most of the
load with bolts in the same area is correct and leaving the stupid things
alone may be best. Rivets hold by swelling in the work pieces more than by
"clamping action". I would bet that all three of the suspect rivets have
about 90% of there potential strength. Good luck--JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parts shopping..AKA "get out and stay out". |
| From: | seaok71302(at)juno.com (mike a adams) |
><< I was about to dump into their oil recycle tank was from an
>airplane.
> He gave me the bum's rush >>
Next time just tell him you got it out of your RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
This summary does not due justice to the
>caution
>which was given not to exceed 6 gees. In conclusion, the RV8 wing
>design was found
>to be fine. The failed spar must have pulled very high gees at some
>point, but it
>did not appear to have occurred at the time of failure.
>
I just wanted to clarify one thing in Joe's post.
I believe the report states that there was no evidence of previous over
stress or damage, which does imply that the wing was simple over stressed
at the time of failure.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: -8 Wing spar, Platenut rivet holes |
>RV-8 Builders,
> Take Caution!!! When drilling the platenut rivet holes, in the
>main spar
>(BOTTOM flange) for the fuel tank screws. The first six platenut rivet
>holes
>(from the root) should be offset from the lateral just as the TOP
>flange
>(PP) holes are, to clear the main wing ribs.
> I screwed up and had to modify a no hole yoke for my hand
>squeezer by
>grinding off a portion of the upper arm to fit and set the rivets.
>Luckily,
>there was enough room to clear the ribs and set the rivets.(Dodged
>another
>bullet!!)
>
Another option in this (or any other difficult) location is to use a
couple of the 3/32 blind (pop) rivets that are no available from Van's.
They are more than adequate for riveting on plate nuts.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Access cover |
>
>NO! The hole in the skin is stronger than the skin as you are putting
>a
>doubler to mount the cover.
Cy, I am only repying to your post because the engineering dept at Van's
doesn't agree with you. I am not an engineer so I asked the engineering
dept. for the technical position they would take.
The stress path goes around the hole via
>the
>doubler.
The engineers disagree and say that the cover screwed on to the hole
gives the major amount of strength back to the hole, the splice plate
adds maybe a small amount. Splice plate is the proper term for this part
because it is really only there to allow the cover to be attached to the
skin with it fitting flush.
If you look at the more recent RV kits with prepunched wing skins a
splice plate is no longer used. Instead the skin opening has a joggle
press formed into it to allow the cover to be attached flush.
This is the approved sheet metal fix when cutting a hole in
>a
>stressed member, for instance, for a strobe light. If you think that
>4 to 6
>screws are the stress path, then you had better double their number or
>at
>least match the number of rivets.
>
I think the plans for RV-4 and RV-6(A) wings detail the use of 9 or 10 #8
screws for attaching the cover.
This is not to imply that a cover with 10 screws attaching it to the wing
skin brings that skin back to the same strength as it would have been
without the cut out made.
The bottom line is... That is the way the wings were tested to prove
that they met the design requirements for limit and ultimate loads.
Of course each builder has the right to build his/her airplane any way
that they choose.
I know what I would do.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
>> Subject: Re: List
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 12:29 PM
enjoy the part of avation that they like. Have fun enjoy two rv3s
you know what they are dont you? Or are you too new to remember
those old fellows, sn 245 on one and 750 on the other kit. See Ya
and hope to see your name on the list often.
Boyd, You've got me. I am not new but I can't connect those kit #s.
Please help me out..............Further, I have quit the list as of today. I
will not be back.. Before long, I will also change my address. I think
it is time I backed away....I must take a look in the mirror. I have
pissed off so many people lately. My brother has not spoken to me
for a year because he did not get an invitation to my daughter's
wedding,.. My son, whom I love more than anything no longer calls
me because I told him his new girl friend will ruin him (questioning his
judgment),...The list fiasco...my formation buddy is dead..it goes
on....
Speaking of aviation, I received a call this morning from a guy in
California. We talked about RVs and lots of things just because he
wanted to. We must have talked for an hour because I found my
primer all dry when I went back to check.
What a great time.. and I don't even know this guy from Adam. We
touched on things like the difference between Americans and
Canadians, what freedom means to us, WW2, (because of a mutual
acquaintance who flies a 6A was in the Luftwaffe and serviced
electrics and machine guns on Me109s)
People are people and they can be wonderful....I'm going back
to the basement, cat following, put down my mug of tea and pass my
fingertips over another set of lovely RV wings and gear down for the
Winter... I know it sounds cornball, but I feel that my 6 is my friend
now, because of familiarity, comfort, dependability and for taking me
to lofty and beautiful vistas where sometimes other fliers gather.
Smiles break out all around. This has to be good for me and the RV
opens a pathway to my soul....Austin<<
Austin, I have not idea if you sent this to the RV-list intentionally, or
not. We go it anyway. How can you stop writing stuff like this? You
have a way with words that many of us wish we could muster. You
have the gift and should continue to use it for our inspiration. I can
relate to so much of this latest little sparkler.
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
A moment ago I accidentally sent my reply to Corsair about his note
to Boyd Butler. I'm sorry about that; but, I guess I got caught in that
trap that all of us do, from time to time.
If Austin really does leave, I'm going to miss the inspiration. Right
now, I am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I could
actually have mine ready to fly in a few months. Austin's writings
have in some small way helped me to get to this point. This last little
piece really hit home.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Hanging engine parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
After searching the archives and getting some good ideas, I didn't find
any info on what spacing to use for the screws that attach the wing root
fairing to the wing. What have you guys (& gals) used?
Thanks in advance.
Warren Bishop N876TB
RV-6 North Platte, NE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)pop.kis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: proud rivets |
After drilling through the center of the rivet to relieve the internal
pressure, use a numbered drill bit a size or two smaller than a 3/16 turned
upside down in the drill press. Use the square end push the rivet out. No
pounding, it's easier to control.
-Gene Gottschalk
Frederick Maryland
N700RV, Finishing Fuselage
>>Take it out, but don't drill it all the way out. Just drill the head
>>off-- then drive the rest out with a pin punch. Sometimes it helps to
>>drill a smaller hole down through the rivit shank (say 1/8") before
>>driving it out. Be sure to back up the back side with some thing like a
>>socket resting on a sturdy surface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Access cover |
Thanks for the complete explanation. I obviously did not have the complete
picture.
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 4:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Access cover
>
>
>>
>>NO! The hole in the skin is stronger than the skin as you are putting
>>a
>>doubler to mount the cover.
>
>Cy, I am only repying to your post because the engineering dept at Van's
>doesn't agree with you. I am not an engineer so I asked the engineering
>dept. for the technical position they would take.
>
> The stress path goes around the hole via
>>the
>>doubler.
>The engineers disagree and say that the cover screwed on to the hole
>gives the major amount of strength back to the hole, the splice plate
>adds maybe a small amount. Splice plate is the proper term for this part
>because it is really only there to allow the cover to be attached to the
>skin with it fitting flush.
>
>If you look at the more recent RV kits with prepunched wing skins a
>splice plate is no longer used. Instead the skin opening has a joggle
>press formed into it to allow the cover to be attached flush.
>
> This is the approved sheet metal fix when cutting a hole in
>>a
>>stressed member, for instance, for a strobe light. If you think that
>>4 to 6
>>screws are the stress path, then you had better double their number or
>>at
>>least match the number of rivets.
>>
>I think the plans for RV-4 and RV-6(A) wings detail the use of 9 or 10 #8
>screws for attaching the cover.
>
>This is not to imply that a cover with 10 screws attaching it to the wing
>skin brings that skin back to the same strength as it would have been
>without the cut out made.
>
>The bottom line is... That is the way the wings were tested to prove
>that they met the design requirements for limit and ultimate loads.
>
>Of course each builder has the right to build his/her airplane any way
>that they choose.
>
>I know what I would do.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Info |
randell,
at the sun n fun this year i talked to the people at hartzell, they gave me a
copy of the types of props they offered and yes some do have rpm restrictions
on them, anybody interested, e-mail me off list with your fax # i will be
glad to fax a copy of it
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I converted my tail wheel to sealed bearings
> to eliminate the grease slinging of the original
> wheel bearing.
> RVer273sb
>
> Whats the bearimg number and supplier.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV UPDATE |
In a message dated 10/19/98 6:12:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< but is it possible that during a time when
the pilot was distracted in some way (such as reading a map, etc.), the
electric trim malfunctioned and went to full down trim, followed by an
over reaction by either the pilot or the passenger in pulling out of the
dive, resulting in an overload? >>
Anything is possible. We will never know what happened to those two men in
the final moments of their lives. Let's not guess. The fact is the airframe
was over stressed (beyond 9 G's) and a portion of the wing separated. Every
hates to admit it but most accidents are due to pilot error. And remember,
even good pilots make errors.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N2121GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
<< I didn't find
any info on what spacing to use for the screws that attach the wing root
fairing to the wing. What have you guys (& gals) used? >>
About 4".
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
I was considering doing the same thing. Would you mind posting the parts you used?
Joe Walker
Bit and Pieces
RV6 Houston
RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I converted my tail wheel to sealed bearings
> to eliminate the grease slinging of the original
> wheel bearing.
> RVer273sb
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
AC 4313 is always a good guide!
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << I didn't find
> any info on what spacing to use for the screws that attach the wing root
> fairing to the wing. What have you guys (& gals) used? >>
>
> About 4".
>
> -GV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Breaker Size |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
I am still working on my electric system, and after reading all of the
books on the subject, (including AeroElectric), I still dont understand
what size breaker I should use for the main breaker. Vans manual shows
30-40amp, others show as much as 60amp. The 8-ga power wire that goes
from the alternator to a circuit breaker, then to the bus. What size
breaker to use? I have a 40 amp alternator, running very light VFR. I
have a 35 amp and a 50 amp breaker; which if any should I use? Also, my
alternator is 'internally regulated'. I assume this means I can bypass
the separate regulator as shown on most schematics?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV UPDATE |
> [Walsh, John] I read it and was wondering the same thing. Remember
>"true confessions"
> a month or two ago? Several reports of pulling 5g's when surprised.
>Imagine two pilots at 1,000 agl and 170 or so indicated ( 30 or so above Va
>) when the nose dives. It's not hard to imagine both guys pulling hard in
a
>purely reflexive reaction. We'll never know of course but it is plausible.
>
I don't know if a trim runaway is what caused a sudden pull on the stick by
one or both of them. It would not seem like the most likely scenario but
certainly a plausible one. What ever caused the pull is not really the
important point. The important thing to remember is the lever that we hold
in our hand really is the "wing removal lever." I don't know what the pitch
force gradient is like in the -8 but in my -4 with a big guy in back it is
real flat.
I posted here during "true confessions" and I will repeat, both times I
encountered a "high-g" situation with another pilot flying my -4, it was
with someone that I trusted and I took it for granted they new what they
were doing. It is my understanding that John new his demo passenger well.
No matter who is flying in back make sure you brief them about the pitch
forces before you let them fly. Even then guard the stick to make sure they
don't pull back too hard.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
Scott:
As with any summary, we leave out important information. The single sentence
thought I meant to convey was ... "
"6. Eyewitness reports indicate N58RV was in level flight at approximately 1000'
altitude at the time of wing separation."...
While the eyewitness was viewing the plane it was not doing aerobatics. The
overstress may have occurred previously during aerobatics. Perhaps the sound of
"an engine surging" was the sound of aerobatics being performed only a few seconds
before he started to look at the plane. However, IMHO, the report is clear that
the overstress did not occur at the time of failure. The report stated that there
was no sign of fatigue, corrosion, or flutter prior to the accident. The time of
overstress is not known.
Joe Walker
Houston
smcdaniels(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> This summary does not due justice to the
> >caution
> >which was given not to exceed 6 gees. In conclusion, the RV8 wing
> >design was found
> >to be fine. The failed spar must have pulled very high gees at some
> >point, but it
> >did not appear to have occurred at the time of failure.
> >
> I just wanted to clarify one thing in Joe's post.
> I believe the report states that there was no evidence of previous over
> stress or damage, which does imply that the wing was simple over stressed
> at the time of failure.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n255gh <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> |
I am mounting the frame work for a tip up canopy. The instruction say
that wd 616a
should be even with the outside edge of the longerons. I come up about
1/8" short on each side. What to do, can this piece be bent or should
I shim later?
WD616a is the front part of the canopy frame.
N255gh
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
Hi Scott and all,
Someone design a tool that will cut a score line in the plastic and serve as a
hammer to break it. The hammer could also be used to drive tie down stakes. It
might also have a big hex hole in the head that would fit the axle nut. It
would be a nice complement to your Swiss Army knife.
hal
> Carrying a tool that would allow you to break through the canopy if
> needed, might not be a bad idea. (maybe something light like a piece of
> thick wall 4130 tubing with one end cut off at a sharp angle).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n255gh <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> |
I'm putting a 3.4L chevy engine in my 6A. Just weighted it
and thought maybe some of you would like to know how it came out.
The engine with nothing on it was 328 lbs.(that is with all engine
covers and oil pan mounted.)With the drive unit from Belted Power
mounted it was 397 lbs.
n255gh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
I don't recall the bearing p/n. I just took the original
wheel bearings to a bearing suplier and matched the
flanged bearings with sealed bearings. The available bearings are not
available
with an inside bore of 3/8. Just make a spacer to fit the bearing with a 3/8
ID. It works great!
RV4273SB Stew Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Van's Pages |
>As with any summary, we leave out important information. The single
sentence
>thought I meant to convey was ... "
>
>"6. Eyewitness reports indicate N58RV was in level flight at approximately
1000'
>altitude at the time of wing separation."...
>
>While the eyewitness was viewing the plane it was not doing aerobatics.
Read the report again as to the "eyewitnesses".
This is directly copied from the report (page 1, section 6)
of the rear window of the car she was riding in. The other
witness was a foreman at a local ranch. Subsequent investigation
indicates the foreman may not have actually witnessed the
accident but was just relaying the account given to him by
another farm worker.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Van's Pages |
>As with any summary, we leave out important information. The single
sentence
>thought I meant to convey was ... "
>
>"6. Eyewitness reports indicate N58RV was in level flight at approximately
1000'
>altitude at the time of wing separation."...
>
>While the eyewitness was viewing the plane it was not doing aerobatics.
Read the report again as to the "eyewitnesses".
This is directly copied from the report (page 1, section 6)
of the rear window of the car she was riding in. The other
witness was a foreman at a local ranch. Subsequent investigation
indicates the foreman may not have actually witnessed the
accident but was just relaying the account given to him by
another farm worker.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stanley Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
>When a com radio is installed is a speaker required by the regs? Seems
>like I heard this somewhere.
>
I believe that a cabin speaker is required for IFR flight in Canada. This is
what a gentleman from NavCanada told me at Oshkosh. I was inquiring about
taking a U.S. homebuilt into Canada.
Any Candanian listers know for shure?
Stan Blanton
RV-6
Lubbock, TX
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
In a message dated 10/20/98 1:04:10 PM Central Daylight Time, joewalk@hal-
pc.org writes:
<< Eyewitness reports indicate N58RV was in level flight at approximately
1000'
altitude at the time of wing separation."...
While the eyewitness was viewing the plane it was not doing aerobatics. The
overstress may have occurred previously during aerobatics. Perhaps the sound
of
"an engine surging" was the sound of aerobatics being performed only a few
seconds
before he started to look at the plane. However, IMHO, the report is clear
that
the overstress did not occur at the time of failure. The report stated that
there
was no sign of fatigue, corrosion, or flutter prior to the accident. The time
of
overstress is not known.
Joe Walker
Houston
>>
Well...... Joe when you make up your mind you don't want to be
confused with the facts do you ??
e
>sound of
>"an engine surging" was the sound of aerobatics being performed only a few
>seconds
>before he started to look at the plane. However, IMHO, the report is clear
>that
>the overstress did not occur at the time of failure. The report stated
>that there
>was no sign of fatigue, corrosion, or flutter prior to the accident. The
>time of
>overstress is not known.
>
>Joe Walker
>Houston
>
>smcdaniels(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> This summary does not due justice to the
>> >caution
>> >which was given not to exceed 6 gees. In conclusion, the RV8 wing
>> >design was found
>> >to be fine. The failed spar must have pulled very high gees at some
>> >point, but it
>> >did not appear to have occurred at the time of failure.
>> >
>> I just wanted to clarify one thing in Joe's post.
>> I believe the report states that there was no evidence of previous over
>> stress or damage, which does imply that the wing was simple over stressed
>> at the time of failure.
>>
>> Scott McDaniels
>> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
I have a 40 amp alternator.
Internally regulated, no external regulator used.
And a 50 amp main breaker on the alternator output to the buss.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thoule(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Hi all,
I was looking at the Aircraft Spruce catalogue and noticed a "Zipgun" for
painting. It looked easy to clean up etc. I went to look it up on the
archives but the server was still down.
Are these guns ok? any positive/negative comments? I'm only thinking about
using it for priming.
You can email me off list @ thoule(at)kneehill.com
Thanks,
Tim Houle
Three Hills, Alberta
Working on Rudder
PS. Did anyone else have a rudder spar with prepunched holes that didn't
line up with the skin ? The first hole in the flange on one side is about a
1/16" out. I called Van's this morning and Bill said it's not structural so
use the skin as a guide and drill a new hole in the flange even though it
will be right next to the existing hole. It was just the one hole in the
flange that was out - the rest were fine.
***************************
Tim Houle
email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
I put a "by pass" switch on my Com Radio, so it may be turned on,
independent of the master switch and its relay.
Thus, prior to starting the engine, you can check ATIS or what ever using
the cabin speaker.
I think the speaker is a builders option.
Likewise, in an emergency, if you had to disconnect your electrics, by
switching off the master and opening its relay, you can use the "bypass
switch" to operate the Comm Radio.
Actually the Comm and GPS is operated with the switch also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
US Cavalry had a small Titanium crowbar in their last catalog. Might be worth
looking into.
Moe
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi Scott and all,
>
> Someone design a tool that will cut a score line in the plastic and serve as
a
> hammer to break it. The hammer could also be used to drive tie down stakes.
It
> might also have a big hex hole in the head that would fit the axle nut. It
> would be a nice complement to your Swiss Army knife.
>
> hal
> > Carrying a tool that would allow you to break through the canopy if
> > needed, might not be a bad idea. (maybe something light like a piece of
> > thick wall 4130 tubing with one end cut off at a sharp angle).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV UPDATE |
>
>Anything is possible. We will never know what happened to those two men in
>the final moments of their lives. Let's not guess. The fact is the
airframe
>was over stressed (beyond 9 G's) and a portion of the wing separated.
Every
>hates to admit it but most accidents are due to pilot error. And remember,
>even good pilots make errors.
>
>Gary Corde
(I made a post on this last night that never made it to my box so I am
repeating this. My apologies if this is twice)
Gary is on the mark here. There is little value in speculating. The
important point is to remember that the you hold the "Wing Removal Lever" in
your hand. Handle it accordingly.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
>Someone design a tool that will cut a score line in the plastic and serve
as a
>hammer to break it. The hammer could also be used to drive tie down
stakes. It
>might also have a big hex hole in the head that would fit the axle nut. It
>would be a nice complement to your Swiss Army knife.
>
>hal
>> Carrying a tool that would allow you to break through the canopy if
>> needed, might not be a bad idea. (maybe something light like a piece of
>> thick wall 4130 tubing with one end cut off at a sharp angle).
In the mid 60s, the USAF installed a big bayonet (military knife) in the
cockpits of all the T-37's at Williams AFB, and I assume all other training
bases, for the specific purpose of allowing someone to cut their way out of
a canopy that wouldn't blow off with the explosive system. I remember the
process was demonstrated to us on a discarded canopy, and it wasn't an easy
task to drive the knife point through the canopy and saw a hole in it, but
it was a whole lot better than nothing, and might have worked pretty well
when powered by adrenaline. The T-37 canopy may have been thicker than the
RV canopies, so maybe it would work pretty well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
Taildraggers,
I got the sealed bearings from Cleaveland. I don't remember the phone
number, but I'm sure it's on the Yeller Pages. The inner diameter was
correct with these bearings. Just tap them onto your existing tailwheel
axle, or buy Cleaveland's longer axle bushing for use with a tow bar.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST installing baffle seal material
>
>I don't recall the bearing p/n. I just took the original
>wheel bearings to a bearing suplier and matched the
>flanged bearings with sealed bearings. The available bearings are not
>available
>with an inside bore of 3/8. Just make a spacer to fit the bearing with a
3/8
>ID. It works great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: cabin speaker |
In that case, get one from a PC!
hal
> I believe that a cabin speaker is required for IFR flight in Canada.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
>Listers;
>I am still working on my electric system, and after reading all of the
>books on the subject, (including AeroElectric), I still dont understand
>what size breaker I should use for the main breaker. Vans manual shows
>30-40amp, others show as much as 60amp. The 8-ga power wire that goes
>from the alternator to a circuit breaker, then to the bus. What size
>breaker to use? I have a 40 amp alternator, running very light VFR. I
>have a 35 amp and a 50 amp breaker; which if any should I use? Also, my
>alternator is 'internally regulated'. I assume this means I can bypass
>the separate regulator as shown on most schematics?
>
>
>Von Alexander
Von,
Bob Nuckolls has posted on the regulator question previously. I think the
bottom line is that the internal regulation in the automotive alternator is
not adequate. You will need a voltage regulator.
The main breaker is determined by the alternator's output. The trap is that
a nominal 40 Amp alternator is capable of putting out more than 40 Amperes
transiently into a dead battery. This has nothing to do with your "light
VFR load" but everything to do with how empty the battery is. The use of a
35 Amp breaker may lead to a nuisance trip in this situation. I would be
inclined to use the 50 Amp breaker.
Many thanks to the many helpful posts on securing wires.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Tim Houle wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was looking at the Aircraft Spruce catalogue and noticed a "Zipgun" for
> painting. It looked easy to clean up etc. I went to look it up on the
> archives but the server was still down.
>
> Are these guns ok? any positive/negative comments? I'm only thinking about
> using it for priming.
>
> You can email me off list @ thoule(at)kneehill.com
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Houle
> Three Hills, Alberta
> Working on Rudder
>
> PS. Did anyone else have a rudder spar with prepunched holes that didn't
> line up with the skin ? The first hole in the flange on one side is about a
> 1/16" out. I called Van's this morning and Bill said it's not structural so
> use the skin as a guide and drill a new hole in the flange even though it
> will be right next to the existing hole. It was just the one hole in the
> flange that was out - the rest were fine.
> ***************************
>
> Tim Houle
>
> email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
>
> ***************************
>
>
Tim,
Don't waste your money on a cheap paint gun, the primer is pretty
expensive. I tried the
paper cup gun, an automotive touch-up gun, and finally settled on a HVLP
gun from Harbor Freight.
The paper cup gun failed to hold on to the paper cup and four ounces of
veriprime bit the dust.
The touch up gun put most of the primer into the air with overspray. The
HVLP uses less pressure,
saves paint and more paint gets onto the surface of whatever your
painting. The gun was about
$80
Ed Cole
RV6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael_Markert(at)vul.com (Michael Markert) |
| Subject: | RV Co-owner partnerships |
Anyone out there in a joint ownership of an RV kit or completed plane?
I'm considering finding a co-owner/co-builder for my RV-6A.
I've heard of people sharing ownership of certified aircraft, but is it common
(or even possible legally) for people to co-own kits and homebuilts?
Mike Markert
RV-6A Empennage
Baton Rouge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
>
>I have a 40 amp alternator.
>
Good . . .
>Internally regulated, no external regulator used.
>
Not good . . .
>And a 50 amp main breaker on the alternator output to the buss.
>
Also good . . . but tying into the hot side of the starter
contactor on the firewall is better.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
<< PS. Did anyone else have a rudder spar with prepunched holes that didn't
line up with the skin ? The first hole in the flange on one side is about a
1/16" out. I called Van's this morning and Bill said it's not structural so
use the skin as a guide and drill a new hole in the flange even though it
will be right next to the existing hole. It was just the one hole in the
flange that was out - the rest were fine. >>
Yep, and we got our kit May of 97. Bill told me the same thing. Do not know
whether it's been fixed to date. When did you get your kit?
Bernie Kerr, working in cockpit 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wheel Grease Fitting |
Listers,
Found the bearing number for the sealed t/w bearings
Got mine at a local Whisler Bearing.. GEN21506-88
RV4 Stew Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
Hi Warren,
I used a 2 1/2 inch spacing with #6 stainless steel screws. As this isn't
a structural item, the spacing is really up to you, I think. I figured a
few more screws would keep the root fairing flat and prevent waviness.
Tip: I drilled the top surface first. To help keep things in line as I
wrapped the root fairing around the leading edge so I could drill the
bottom, I made a "nose piece" out of scrap wood that followed the contour of
the leading edge. I taped this in front of the angle that attaches to the
fuselage so that any pressure applied to the wood was transfered to the
angle. This nose piece mirrored the leading edge of the tank and gave a
solid point to support the root fairing as it was wrapped around the leading
edge and drilled to the bottom.
I cut the fairing to follow the fuselage contour as closly as possible.
After all holes were drilled and dimpled in the fairing, I clecoed the
fairing on the wing and drew a trim line to allow for the installation of
the rubber "U" channel. I tucked the bottom trailing portion of the fairing
under the fuselage skin that overlaps and is nut plated to the bottom of the
wing.
Bob Skinner RV-6 450 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>After searching the archives and getting some good ideas, I didn't find
>any info on what spacing to use for the screws that attach the wing root
>fairing to the wing. What have you guys (& gals) used?
>Warren Bishop N876TB
>RV-6 North Platte, NE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related |
Gentleman,
The following was sent to me by Corsair. I have encouraged him to keep
writing and I will post his occasional muses. (This being the first.) As
long as Matt will allow this activity I will post it for those of us who
can appreciate what he writes.
I also do it for those that at this time in their lives view it as less
than entertaining in the hope that as they mature they will learn to
appreciate such a diversion from the normal list traffic and our day to day
building and general living of life. I will always preface the subject as
above so that those inclined may delete it with no further ado. As I told
Corsair, I am very thick skinned so if you wish to point out my faults with
this logic please feel free to E-mail me personally and I will also
exercise my right to delete as I see fit. I hope that more than a few of
you appreciate this. Al
>What follows is true and I tell the tale because it parallels a similar
>experience that I had. Delete now, because it is not RV related, but it is
>flying.
> Several years ago I belonged to a flying club of 160 strong.
>Pilots of all ages and backgrounds and accents made up the group.
>You could not tell anything about their background experiences nor their
>flying hours just by the coffee chatter that permeated the clubhouse after
>grounding time. What an atmosphere ! Aircraft cooling outside in the ground
>mist !
> I used to wonder, as a young guy consumed with flying and danger,
>what it would be like to be in the same room as some of the former
>Luftwaffe.
> Imagine my excitement and surprise to find we had at least 4 in the club.
>(Later on, I was to become the son-in-law of another, not in the club).
> One of these pilots was kind enough to ask me to his home to fill
>my cup with good coffee and a large portion of arial warfare. I could
>hardly wait.
> Franz was a most engaging host and showed me photos of the old days
>and some big names. I was in my glory. He sat in a big chair, a big cat at
>his feet....I noticed a scar running along his forehead and without my
>asking (how could I ?), he said that came from the tail gunner of a B17.
> After one of his sorties, late in the war, he landed his Me109 for
>more ammo and a quick squirt of fuel when the alarm came again to send him
>aloft after a B17 that was passing nearby, homeward bound after a raid on
>his homeland.
> Fueling stopped and the 109 leapt into the air and in short minutes,
>he came upon a lone B17. A straggler. Alone. This was going to be an easy
>dispatch thought Franz. Easy. He had more time than he needed so he closed
>to make it certain. It was then he noticed the severe battle damage. One
>engine out and another trailing smoke, The tail gunner was dead and a waste
>gunner was draped over his gun, dead. The closeness of it brought home the
>reality of it I suppose, but Franz could not bring himself to fire. He saw
>the crew were as young as he was. He pulled up alongside the pilot, gave
>him a salute and stayed with him for a bit to show the way home to England.
> Once on the ground, he said simply that due to such little fuel he had,
>the B17 got away.
> That was remarkable enough, but it doesn't end there. Many, many years
>later a newsletter from one of the pilots reunion groups reprinted a letter
>wherein a former 8th Airforce pilot was trying to get some information
>about an incident over Holland late in the war when an Me109 had spared
>this gravely damaged B17. The pilot had just been a kid and so was the
>crew.
> Some-one, I never discovered who, put all these facts together and
>brought Franz and the B17 pilot together. Yes, it was the same two
>adversaries and was confirmed by dates, time , place and more importantly,
>aircraft markings.
> The meeting was something that only a poet laureate could put words
>to.
>They are friends to this day.
> As I rose to leave that evening, Franz pointed to the big Tabby on the
>rug and said, "He left his motor running, sounds like my old Daimler,...
>just as smooth". "Mystery, that damn cat"! he said. "Why is that" ? I
>asked.
>"Because I hate cats". " But he came to me starving and severely wounded,
>he had a lot of battle damage. Now, I would not spend a quarter on a cat,
>but I trapped this fellow and took him to the Vet, cost me over $60 ! What
>could I do ?..Why me ?? What did he see in me ??? A cat hater ??"
> " He was a very wary fellow and it was more than a year before he would
>let me touch him..Now we are friends."
> Does it make you wonder sometimes about pilots....
> and the human condition ?
> This killer of the back field lot, puts his fate, his safety, his
>salvation in the hands of the old lion of the skies. The old arial killer
>who now reclines with his buzzing friend and asks..."What did he see in me
>? Why me ?"
>
>I don't see Franz any more, he is old and getting frail, but I thought of
>him more recently as I too, a cat hater, had this ragged fellow come to my
>house.
>His people had left him to starve, he had severe battle damage, he was very
>rude and arrogant and no class at all at the table, and on top of it all,
>never thanked me once for anything....But he lays here now, buzzing like a
>Merlin, and I too, am compelled to ask ..."Why me.??.a cat hater...What
>did he see in me???"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
Loe, be safe, not sorry...use a 60amp..It's HARD to put out a fire in the
elect.sys. and fly the 'plane too....besides, what is the weight
difference?...It's only money, and of course we ALL have a LOT of that!
yeah!....jolly
Leo Davies wrote:
>
> >Listers;
> >I am still working on my electric system, and after reading all of the
> >books on the subject, (including AeroElectric), I still dont understand
> >what size breaker I should use for the main breaker. Vans manual shows
> >30-40amp, others show as much as 60amp. The 8-ga power wire that goes
> >from the alternator to a circuit breaker, then to the bus. What size
> >breaker to use? I have a 40 amp alternator, running very light VFR. I
> >have a 35 amp and a 50 amp breaker; which if any should I use? Also, my
> >alternator is 'internally regulated'. I assume this means I can bypass
> >the separate regulator as shown on most schematics?
> >
> >
> >Von Alexander
>
> Von,
>
> Bob Nuckolls has posted on the regulator question previously. I think the
> bottom line is that the internal regulation in the automotive alternator is
> not adequate. You will need a voltage regulator.
>
> The main breaker is determined by the alternator's output. The trap is that
> a nominal 40 Amp alternator is capable of putting out more than 40 Amperes
> transiently into a dead battery. This has nothing to do with your "light
> VFR load" but everything to do with how empty the battery is. The use of a
> 35 Amp breaker may lead to a nuisance trip in this situation. I would be
> inclined to use the 50 Amp breaker.
>
> Many thanks to the many helpful posts on securing wires.
>
> Leo Davies
>
> leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Denman <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a friend who is looking for a nice RV4. (He is currently
building a RV6.) He doesn't need a "show plane"
but does want one that is well built and with a good engine. Anyone
know of an RV4 that matches this description
that is for sale? Please reply off line.
Mike Denman
RV-6
mikedenman(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollover |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
If you have a slider. It is real simple to just jettison the canope when
you are certain you are going down.
Cecil
Thousand Oaks, CA
>no evidence to show that one is any better than the
>other. >When inverted neither can be opened but I believe most in the
>situation
>>have found that the canopy broke up enough for them to pull off some
>>pieces and crawl out. Carrying a tool that would allow you to break
>>through the canopy if needed, might not be a bad idea. (maybe
>something
>>light like a piece of thick wall 4130 tubing with one end cut off at
>a
>sharp >angle).
>>
>>Scott McDaniels I am building the tip up on a 6A. If I build with
>the eject pins &
>install the air stuts, Will the stuts be riped off? or should I use
>bolts
>with the stuts & plan on NOT getting up side down (on the ground)?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
October 15, 1998 - October 20, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fq