RV-Archive.digest.vol-fr
October 20, 1998 - October 26, 1998
| Subject: | From the office of Craig Lenz |
Hello,
Craig Lenz here.
I am sending you this message as a special press release from my
office to yours. We have exchanged business information in the
past and due to the nature of the timing involved, I felt it appropriate
to use my in-house mailing list to get this info to you ASAP. If you
receive multiple copies of this I apologize for not being able to cull
out the duplicate names with different email addresses. Please do
not consider this a Spam message as we have communicated
before and I felt you would want to receive this message. If not
please delete now... with my apologies.
I want to share with you a website that has been set up to present
what I believe to be the most intriguing opportunity I have seen in
my 4 years of online marketing "full time" via the Internet. This is
the first time I have gathered all my online contacts into one file to
send a message to, but this info is that important. I want to have
everyone I have worked with in the past to be amongst the first to
learn about it.
The site has been up less than 48hrs yet the company who
delivers it is 26yrs old and currently the # 1 traded stock on the
AMX. They are seeking clients and marketing partners. Our team
has put the tools in place to help them achieve their goals via the
net through a powerful presentation.
This is your personal invitation to be among the first to experience
it. Logging in past the first page is a must. The email address is
used within the system and is never shared with anyone.
We have gathered the most talented software and marketing gurus
we could find on the net to assemble this systems driven site.
Already the success rate is astounding. The product is HUGE, it is
EMPOWERING, has NO competition and EVERYONE needs it.
Just to learn about this product is reason enough to visit the site. It
is the PRODUCT that creates the OPPORTUNITY.... nothing more.
You will remember reading this email.. no matter what you do from
here on in... I guarantee you one day... YOU WILL REMEMBER
HAVING READ THIS EMAIL! Please take a minute to view the
webpage below.
The URL is http://www.equalizers.com
This message will not be repeated as it is a onetime mailing. We
look forward to having the opportunity to either work together or
serve you in the future.
Sincerely yours,
Craig Lenz
Slight Edge Success Systems
"The Equalizers"
306-761-1681
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/20/98 7:42:34 Central Daylight Time, Kerrjb(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Bernie Kerr, working in cockpit 6A, SE Fla >>
Hey Bernie. You gonna come up and take me for a ride in the 6A when you get it
finished & Flying?
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Workin on the house now.
The "Junkyard Dog" is on hold,
right along with the Austin Healey.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave jones" <djones(at)erie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron pit falls |
Listers,
I recently learned something the hard way that i would like to pass on. In
building the ailerons, I built a jig, much like the elevator/rudder jig, to
construct them. It was a thing of beauty. Perfectly aligned with the
aileron outside profile. What i did not realize was the spar has to be at a
PRECISE right angle to the tooling hole centerline. The pre-punched holes
in the skin lined up exactly with the gauge line of the spar flange.
Everything looked great (in hind site). The aileron turned out to be
twisted. How can that be?
The angular measurement of back of spar to tooling hole centerline should
be 90deg. On one side it was, on the other side, it was off by 1.5 degrees.
Doesn't sound like much but, assuming the angular rotation at
centerline(not pivot point) of the tooling hole line; the variation of
twist, as measured from one tip of aileron to the other tip of aileron is
<.01618*10=.02618> . Let me tell you that 1/4 of an inch will drive you
crazy.
When you go to align the aileron with the flaps (no matter which method you
choose), it will not align to your satisfaction. PLEASE BEWARE. When you
fabricate your ailerons, check the spar to tooling hole centerline angle.
It's not that hard to do. Place the angle gauge on the back of the spar, on
both sides, when the aileron is sitting in the jig. The numbers must
match.
dave jones
RV-6 N447DJ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
A gentleman here in NJ is looking at buying an RV-4 that is based at the
Hillsboro, OR airport. The aircraft, N711EU is all red with a "royal flush"
on the tail. The aircraft was professionally built by David Lewis and had a
first flight in '93.
My immediate concerns are that the aircraft has an Ellison throttle body
(however, I'm not sure of its installation) and the engine prop combination
(the perspective owner wants to fly acro in the aircraft and I don't know if
the plane has the aerobatic Hartzel C/S prop).
Does any one on the list have first hand knowledge of the plane or builder?
Are there any listers in Hillsboro who would be able to perform a pre-purchase
inspection for this man in NJ?
Please respond to me off-list @ RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Thanks,
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
> After searching the archives and getting some good ideas, I didn't find
> any info on what spacing to use for the screws that attach the wing root
> fairing to the wing. What have you guys (& gals) used?
Dwg 46, roughly middle, shows 2.5 inch spacing.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/20/98 5:24:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Kerrjb(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Do not know
whether it's been fixed to date. When did you get your kit? >>
Original poster inquired about misplaced hole between rudder spar and skin.
I purchased my tail kit in April of this year. I do not have the problem. As
for the fix, it sounds kinda lame to me, especially on the flange.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV UPDATE |
>No matter who is flying in back make sure you brief them about the pitch
>forces before you let them fly. Even then guard the stick to make sure
they
>don't pull back too hard.
Never turn you plane over to the new GIB at anything over manuvering
speed. Your chances of having a catastrophic failure will be greatly reduced
if the GIB decides to "wring her out" by sucking the stick into his gut.
Maybe you will live to get back on the ground, then you can have a little
ground school.
Watch the ones that have "experience" in the back seat also. It's your
plane, it's your life.
Jerry Isler
RV4 #1070
Donalsonville,Ga.
(Hi mom and dad! Send money ----- to Barrett's Performance Engines)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
There is a great deal of false or bad information passed on this list
daily, but I feel the need to correct the following, posted Monday:
"The failed spar must have pulled very high gees at some point, but it
did not appear to have occurred at the time of failure."
This is NOT what the report said.
~Jeremy jwb(at)europa.com I speak for myself only. No one else. Period.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related |
Sorry I'm so soft hearted... It brought tears to my eyes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 8:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related
>
>Gentleman,
>The following was sent to me by Corsair. I have encouraged him to keep
>writing and I will post his occasional muses. (This being the first.) As
>long as Matt will allow this activity I will post it for those of us who
>can appreciate what he writes.
>I also do it for those that at this time in their lives view it as less
>than entertaining in the hope that as they mature they will learn to
>appreciate such a diversion from the normal list traffic and our day to day
>building and general living of life. I will always preface the subject as
>above so that those inclined may delete it with no further ado. As I told
>Corsair, I am very thick skinned so if you wish to point out my faults with
>this logic please feel free to E-mail me personally and I will also
>exercise my right to delete as I see fit. I hope that more than a few of
>you appreciate this. Al
>
>>What follows is true and I tell the tale because it parallels a similar
>>experience that I had. Delete now, because it is not RV related, but it is
>>flying.
>> Several years ago I belonged to a flying club of 160 strong.
>>Pilots of all ages and backgrounds and accents made up the group.
>>You could not tell anything about their background experiences nor their
>>flying hours just by the coffee chatter that permeated the clubhouse after
>>grounding time. What an atmosphere ! Aircraft cooling outside in the
ground
>>mist !
>> I used to wonder, as a young guy consumed with flying and danger,
>>what it would be like to be in the same room as some of the former
>>Luftwaffe.
>> Imagine my excitement and surprise to find we had at least 4 in the club.
>>(Later on, I was to become the son-in-law of another, not in the club).
>> One of these pilots was kind enough to ask me to his home to fill
>>my cup with good coffee and a large portion of arial warfare. I could
>>hardly wait.
>> Franz was a most engaging host and showed me photos of the old days
>>and some big names. I was in my glory. He sat in a big chair, a big cat at
>>his feet....I noticed a scar running along his forehead and without my
>>asking (how could I ?), he said that came from the tail gunner of a B17.
>> After one of his sorties, late in the war, he landed his Me109 for
>>more ammo and a quick squirt of fuel when the alarm came again to send him
>>aloft after a B17 that was passing nearby, homeward bound after a raid on
>>his homeland.
>> Fueling stopped and the 109 leapt into the air and in short minutes,
>>he came upon a lone B17. A straggler. Alone. This was going to be an easy
>>dispatch thought Franz. Easy. He had more time than he needed so he closed
>>to make it certain. It was then he noticed the severe battle damage. One
>>engine out and another trailing smoke, The tail gunner was dead and a
waste
>>gunner was draped over his gun, dead. The closeness of it brought home the
>>reality of it I suppose, but Franz could not bring himself to fire. He saw
>>the crew were as young as he was. He pulled up alongside the pilot, gave
>>him a salute and stayed with him for a bit to show the way home to
England.
>> Once on the ground, he said simply that due to such little fuel he had,
>>the B17 got away.
>> That was remarkable enough, but it doesn't end there. Many, many years
>>later a newsletter from one of the pilots reunion groups reprinted a
letter
>>wherein a former 8th Airforce pilot was trying to get some information
>>about an incident over Holland late in the war when an Me109 had spared
>>this gravely damaged B17. The pilot had just been a kid and so was the
>>crew.
>> Some-one, I never discovered who, put all these facts together and
>>brought Franz and the B17 pilot together. Yes, it was the same two
>>adversaries and was confirmed by dates, time , place and more importantly,
>>aircraft markings.
>> The meeting was something that only a poet laureate could put words
>>to.
>>They are friends to this day.
>> As I rose to leave that evening, Franz pointed to the big Tabby on the
>>rug and said, "He left his motor running, sounds like my old Daimler,...
>>just as smooth". "Mystery, that damn cat"! he said. "Why is that" ? I
>>asked.
>>"Because I hate cats". " But he came to me starving and severely wounded,
>>he had a lot of battle damage. Now, I would not spend a quarter on a cat,
>>but I trapped this fellow and took him to the Vet, cost me over $60 ! What
>>could I do ?..Why me ?? What did he see in me ??? A cat hater ??"
>> " He was a very wary fellow and it was more than a year before he would
>>let me touch him..Now we are friends."
>> Does it make you wonder sometimes about pilots....
>> and the human condition ?
>> This killer of the back field lot, puts his fate, his safety, his
>>salvation in the hands of the old lion of the skies. The old arial killer
>>who now reclines with his buzzing friend and asks..."What did he see in me
>>? Why me ?"
>>
>>I don't see Franz any more, he is old and getting frail, but I thought of
>>him more recently as I too, a cat hater, had this ragged fellow come to my
>>house.
>>His people had left him to starve, he had severe battle damage, he was
very
>>rude and arrogant and no class at all at the table, and on top of it all,
>>never thanked me once for anything....But he lays here now, buzzing like a
>>Merlin, and I too, am compelled to ask ..."Why me.??.a cat hater...What
>>did he see in me???"
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-655 Question |
Dear Mike,
I noticed your post regarding the sloppy control sticks. This was a very
important thing to me, because I am very particular abount control feel and
could not accept the sticks on my RV8 as supplied. I fixed mine and
resulted in a perfect no slop feel by doing the following:
I reamed the hole in the control stick out about .010 to remove the welding
slag and also to make the hole perfectly round. Then I machine bushings
from hard Amphenol Bronze so that the bolt hole is .001 tight so that there
is no movement on the bolt. I fitted the OD of the bushings .001 loose so
that the control sticks would pivot on the OD of the bushings and I cut the
length to plus .010 so that the stick would pivot back and forth but would
not wobble side to side. This may seem extreme, however if you want a good
stick feel with no slop, this is one lasting way to accomplish it.
Good Luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
#80124 Running out of parts
----------
> From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: F-655 Question
> Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 2:09 PM
>
>
>
> >Answered my own question on rod end bearings but when they go into the
> >control sticks alot of slop in between ----fabricate bushings?
> >
> >
> >Mike Comeaux
> >
> >
> >
> Using AN960-10 washers is a lot easier than making bushings.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
Friends,
I have electric elevator and aileron trim in my RV-6 and consider them both
delightful additions to a wonderful airplane. I was originally concerned that
anything electric is another failure waiting to happen but they have been
totally reliable and I expect them to remain so for many hours given the low
amount of usage and low forces they see.
But in getting used to them I experimented with running the trim way out as it
would be in a runaway situation to see how controllable the plane would be.
It was always satisfactory, especially after slowing down a bit. I ran the
pitch trim pretty much full down with no real problem. It was OK full up too,
but pretty disconcerting to have to push all of the time.
When I flew F-106's for Uncle I had a runaway trim once for real and it was
nose down. The stick snatched forward and the plane started down, but just
catching the stick in my hand was sufficient to stop the motion and there was
absolutely no tendency to yank back. I don't think I lost 200 feet even at
450 knots. It was totally controllable although my arm was mighty tired
before I got back on the ground.
I can not offer any insight into the loss of the -8, but my purpose in writing
this is to avoid unneccessary concern about having electric trim on your
plane. It is a nice feature and totally safe when properly installed and
maintained.
Jim
RV-6 N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
>As with any summary, we leave out important information. The single
>sentence
>thought I meant to convey was ... "
>
>"6. Eyewitness reports indicate N58RV was in level flight at
>approximately 1000'
>altitude at the time of wing separation."...
>
>While the eyewitness was viewing the plane it was not doing
>aerobatics. The
>overstress may have occurred previously during aerobatics. Perhaps the
>sound of
>"an engine surging" was the sound of aerobatics being performed only a
>few seconds
>before he started to look at the plane. However, IMHO, the report is
>clear that
>the overstress did not occur at the time of failure. The report stated
>that there
>was no sign of fatigue, corrosion, or flutter prior to the accident.
>The time of
>overstress is not known.
>
>Joe Walker
>Houston
>
Joe,
I don't want this to turn in to a E-mail debate but I think it is
important that only facts be presented as things that are known to be
certain, and leave the rest to who knows.
You state above that the report is clear that the over stress did not
occur at the time of failure, but then said that the time of over stress
is not known. Which means that it could very well have occured at the
time of failure. And it is also likely to have been the case.
As already mentioned, the reports of what happened from the witnesses
is suspect (as it is in most accidents).
One thing that did go along with one of the reports was that the failed
portion of the wing came off and then the airplane pitched up.
Who is to say that the pitch up didn't happen at the same time?
If you were looking at an airplane flying level away from you at a
distance of lets say 1/4 mile. If a pull on the stick was executed in an
instant that was enough to put over 9 G's on the airplane which do you
think you would see first, the failed piece of wing come off, or the
climb that would occur because of the pitch up?
I am not not providing this as an explanation of what happened.
It just shows that there are hundreds of possibilities, so please lets
not read into the final report more than what is there.
As Doug has already said... Keep in mind that anyone in an airplane with
a stick available to them also has the responsibility for keeping the
wings attached to the airplane.
Fly safe
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Roll |
K-bar make a "USAF Pilots Survival Knife" that sounds similar.
It looks like a shortened Marine K-Bar with a hacksaw blade forming the back of
the blade. The blade is 3/16" thick and about 6" long by 1" wide.
Finding someone who stocks them is a problem. I bought mine in the US in '95 at
a specialist knife retailer but couldn't find a stockist this year for a second
one.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollove
Date: 20-10-98 13:43
In the mid 60s, the USAF installed a big bayonet (military knife) in the
cockpits of all the T-37's at Williams AFB, and I assume all other training
bases, for the specific purpose of allowing someone to cut their way out of
a canopy that wouldn't blow off with the explosive system. I remember the
process was demonstrated to us on a discarded canopy, and it wasn't an easy
task to drive the knife point through the canopy and saw a hole in it, but
it was a whole lot better than nothing, and might have worked pretty well
when powered by adrenaline. The T-37 canopy may have been thicker than the
RV canopies, so maybe it would work pretty well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
>I am mounting the frame work for a tip up canopy. The instruction say
>that wd 616a
>should be even with the outside edge of the longerons. I come up about
>1/8" short on each side. What to do, can this piece be bent or should
>I shim later?
>WD616a is the front part of the canopy frame.
>N255gh
Dear N255gh,
I had some mis-match on my WD616a on one side. I cut the "U" channel so I
could bend it out flush and riveted on a patch. The patch was covered with
the foam and fiberglass placed in the channel that is used to decrease
twisting of the frame.
Bob Skinner RV-6 450 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
Scott:
We should not speculate about what could have happened. It does appear that we
do
it anyway. The NTSB accounting, based on eyewitnesses, may be wrong. I think they
would be the first to admit that. However, the NTSB report gives a detailed
version of parts coming off of the plane in level flight. No excessive gees could
have existed under these circumstances. This is a situation where the overstress
could not have happened during the failure. I did not write the report. The
report is not my opinion of what happened (I don't have one). The plane could
simply have pulled high gees and the wing failed, but that is not what was
reported.
You stated in your original response to my summary that the investigation showed
no evidence of prior overstress. This is not true. There is no way to check for
prior overstress, only fatigue, corrosion, and flutter. The overstress could have
occurred ten seconds, ten minutes, or ten hours before the failure and there is
no
way to tell. It, however, could not have occurred in straight and level flight.
It was never my intention to make any conclusions about the accident or to
speculate about the cause, although, by way of explaining I ended up speculating
anyway. I merely was summarizing the report from a literal sense.
Since I write structural failure reports, although not for aircraft, I know the
trouble you can get into trying to summarize them. The only thing I was trying
to
add to the report was a bit of additional caution to never exceed 6 gees and my
opinion that Van's had done a good job. What I wrote was completely accurate based
on what was REPORTED. If the report was wrong, I can't help that. I guess everyone
who reads the thing is entitled to their own opinion. Most of the disagreement
appears to be centered around whether or not failure actually occurred in
"straight and level flight", as reported.
Respectfully,
Joe Walker
Ismcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
> >
> Joe,
> I don't want this to turn in to a E-mail debate but I think it is
> important that only facts be presented as things that are known to be
> certain, and leave the rest to who knows.
>
> You state above that the report is clear that the over stress did not
> occur at the time of failure, but then said that the time of over stress
> is not known. Which means that it could very well have occured at the
> time of failure. And it is also likely to have been the case.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> Anthony K. Self wrote:
> >
> >
> > >RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
> > >comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
> > >together, all for one, one for all....together.
> > >On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we are
> > >propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor that,
> > >we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would lift
> >
> > There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
> > prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
> > RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
> > to do with the building process.
> >
> I could think of a lot of things to say to you Anthony but I guess I won't
> flame you. Those of us that are flying our RV's and have been for some
> time get a special feeling and kind of bond with these pieces of aluminum
> that we took and actually made a flying machine. This is accomplishment that
> very few pilots ever get to accomplish and it is a high that last a long time.
> Personally I really enjoy Corsairs thoughts.
I second the opinion. We nearly lost Corsair once before; thankfully
the list responded and convinced him to continue. Anthony, your message
(and this one, to be truthful) are more a waste of space than a single
sentence that Corsair writes; consider yourself fortunate to be able to
read the words of our poet. As for relevancy, this is the RV-list, not
the RV-building-list, and posts about flying or the RV experience are
perfectly relevant. Corsair, please don't let one Philistine drive you
away.
PatK - RV-6A - shelved until I can find a new buiding space
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Apology and List Problems |
I just replied to a message and then discovered that it was weeks too
late; I wanted to apologize for beating a dead horse. Please don't
start up the thread again.
I have been getting 40+ (conservative figure) messages daily from the
list. However, I didn't get to check my email this weekend. On Monday,
when I checked, I downloaded over 400 messages! I finally got to read
them all this AM, but didn't pay attention to the dates until after I
replied to that one message. Then I noticed that I had received
messages dating back into last month. These were not duplicates of
messages that I already recieved. This has happened at least twice
before; has anyone else seen this phenomenon? I can't imagine my ISP
queueing messages in this fashion, but neither can I imagine the list
server holding them up. Matt, I'd be interested in your input.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
You may want to re-read that report Joe. "Straight and level" was based on the
eyewitness account. For those who are wondering about the credability of eyewitness
accounts, go to the NTSB files (Linked from my webpage) and do a search on something
like a Pitts or Decathlon. Read the reports, and see how different people see the
same
thing. I once read a report with 4 different accounts, all from pilots that were
watching from the ground, and every one was completely different, stating things
like:
"The aircraft hit the ground at the bottom of a loop" to "the aircraft nosed over
and
went straight in". I think in this case, where the witnesses were an 11 yr old
girl,
and a farm hand who may not have even seen it, we should not assume the plane was
straight and level. The report says the witness saw the plane: straight and level,
wing came off, pitch-up, loud noise, crash. If you just change the order of two
events
(pitch-up, THEN wing seperation), then you have a more plausable account. Saying
that
straight and level is based on facts is not true, because eyewitness accounts are
not
facts.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com/rv8/welcome.html
Joe Walker wrote:
>
> Scott:
> We should not speculate about what could have happened. It does appear that we
do
> it anyway. The NTSB accounting, based on eyewitnesses, may be wrong. I think
they
> would be the first to admit that. However, the NTSB report gives a detailed
> version of parts coming off of the plane in level flight. No excessive gees could
> have existed under these circumstances. This is a situation where the overstress
> could not have happened during the failure. I did not write the report. The
> report is not my opinion of what happened (I don't have one). The plane could
> simply have pulled high gees and the wing failed, but that is not what was
> reported.
>
> You stated in your original response to my summary that the investigation showed
> no evidence of prior overstress. This is not true. There is no way to check for
> prior overstress, only fatigue, corrosion, and flutter. The overstress could
have
> occurred ten seconds, ten minutes, or ten hours before the failure and there
is no
> way to tell. It, however, could not have occurred in straight and level flight.
>
> It was never my intention to make any conclusions about the accident or to
> speculate about the cause, although, by way of explaining I ended up speculating
> anyway. I merely was summarizing the report from a literal sense.
>
> Since I write structural failure reports, although not for aircraft, I know the
> trouble you can get into trying to summarize them. The only thing I was trying
to
> add to the report was a bit of additional caution to never exceed 6 gees and
my
> opinion that Van's had done a good job. What I wrote was completely accurate
based
> on what was REPORTED. If the report was wrong, I can't help that. I guess everyone
> who reads the thing is entitled to their own opinion. Most of the disagreement
> appears to be centered around whether or not failure actually occurred in
> "straight and level flight", as reported.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Joe Walker
>
> Ismcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> > >
> > Joe,
> > I don't want this to turn in to a E-mail debate but I think it is
> > important that only facts be presented as things that are known to be
> > certain, and leave the rest to who knows.
> >
> > You state above that the report is clear that the over stress did not
> > occur at the time of failure, but then said that the time of over stress
> > is not known. Which means that it could very well have occured at the
> > time of failure. And it is also likely to have been the case.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Co-owner partnerships |
>
>
> I've heard of people sharing ownership of certified aircraft, but is it common
> (or even possible legally) for people to co-own kits and homebuilts?
>
> It is legal, I don't know how common. There are two men in
Sweetwater, TX who co-own an RV-4.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX -4 nearly finished (only 90% to
go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: runaway trim |
Friends,
I also have elect trim and flaps in my RV4.
I installed the breakers for these where I can readily
locate them in case of an uncomanded trim or flap
actuation. Thus far they have worked flawlessly.
RV4 Stew Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing Root Fairing |
I have the fiberglass farings on my RV4 and used only
as many screws as it took to hold it firmly in place
Something like 8 across the top side and 5 around the l/e
and bottom.
RV4 Stew Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Meeting of two killers |
Yeah, keep 'em coming. Damn that was good.
Gary Corde
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Watson <gtwatson(at)students.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-4: Rear spar dimpling |
I was reading Will Cretsinger's wing instructions and found the following:
"c. The second rivet from the top in the rear spar for ribs 6 through 9
must be flush aft to accommodate the flap brace. Dimple the spar and ribs
accordingly.
d. The bottom rivet in the rear spar for ribs 10 through 13 must be flush
aft to accommodate the aileron gap seal. Dimple spar and ribs accordingly."
I couldn't find any reference to this in the builders manual or plans.
Should I dimple these or is this something specific to the RV-6?
Thanks,
Glen Watson
RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | ATTN ALL RV-LISTERS |
I really hate spammers, so we should all join together and stop the spam!
Please, EVERYONE on the list, send this guy an email telling him to stop the
spam...
If he gets 1000 emails, I don't think he will be sending us anything else!
DO NOT REPLY to the email, send him a new one, directly. You MUST change
the email address
to:
lenzc(at)sk.sympatico.ca
>
>Hello,
>
>Craig Lenz here.
>
>I am sending you this message as a special press release from my
>office to yours. We have exchanged business information in the
>past and due to the nature of the timing involved, I felt it appropriate
>to use my in-house mailing list to get this info to you ASAP. If you
>receive multiple copies of this I apologize for not being able to cull
>out the duplicate names with different email addresses. Please do
>not consider this a Spam message as we have communicated
>before and I felt you would want to receive this message. If not
>please delete now... with my apologies.
>
>I want to share with you a website that has been set up to present
>what I believe to be the most intriguing opportunity I have seen in
>my 4 years of online marketing "full time" via the Internet. This is
>the first time I have gathered all my online contacts into one file to
>send a message to, but this info is that important. I want to have
>everyone I have worked with in the past to be amongst the first to
>learn about it.
>
>The site has been up less than 48hrs yet the company who
>delivers it is 26yrs old and currently the # 1 traded stock on the
>AMX. They are seeking clients and marketing partners. Our team
>has put the tools in place to help them achieve their goals via the
>net through a powerful presentation.
>
>This is your personal invitation to be among the first to experience
>it. Logging in past the first page is a must. The email address is
>used within the system and is never shared with anyone.
>
>We have gathered the most talented software and marketing gurus
>we could find on the net to assemble this systems driven site.
>Already the success rate is astounding. The product is HUGE, it is
>EMPOWERING, has NO competition and EVERYONE needs it.
>Just to learn about this product is reason enough to visit the site. It
>is the PRODUCT that creates the OPPORTUNITY.... nothing more.
>
>You will remember reading this email.. no matter what you do from
>here on in... I guarantee you one day... YOU WILL REMEMBER
>HAVING READ THIS EMAIL! Please take a minute to view the
>webpage below.
>
>The URL is http://www.equalizers.com
>
>This message will not be repeated as it is a onetime mailing. We
>look forward to having the opportunity to either work together or
>serve you in the future.
>
>Sincerely yours,
>
>Craig Lenz
>Slight Edge Success Systems
>"The Equalizers"
>306-761-1681
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | tailwheel endorsement |
Not strictly RV related but I will ask anyway. A friend is getting very
near to first flight on his homebuilt (not an RV, a 2 seat ultralight he is
building as an experimental). He has a private pilot cert, but no tailwheel
endorsement as of yet (his airplane is a taildragger). The kit manufacturer
provides transition training in their factory demo plane, but the
instructor is not an FAA certified CFI, instead he is USUA certified. This
USUA instructor has told my friend that a tailwheel endorsement isnt
required to fly his airplane even though it carries an N number because the
airplane isnt certified. He claims (as does the manufacturer) that the
tailwheel endorsement is only required for certified aircraft. This sounds
incorrect to me. Opinions from any CFIs out there? Does my friend need to
take some tailwheel training and get an endorsement before/in addition to
the in type training he intends to take?
Feel free to respond off list.
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
<< Loe, be safe, not sorry...use a 60amp.. >>
Since he was considering a choice between 35 and 50 amp breakers, I believe I
am correct in pointing out that a 60 amp breaker would be _less_ safe. Now,
using 60 amp capacity wiring and protecting it with a 50 amp breaker; THAT
would indeed reduce the fire risk.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: From the office of Craig Lenz |
<< The URL is http://www.equalizers.com
This message will not be repeated as it is a onetime mailing. >>
This message probably will not be repeated because Matt will have plenty to
say about it if it is. Right?
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
>airplane isnt certified. He claims (as does the manufacturer) that the
>tailwheel endorsement is only required for certified aircraft. This sounds
>incorrect to me. Opinions from any CFIs out there
Mike,
________________________________________________________________________________
14. EXCEPTION OF EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT FROM CATEGORY AND CLASS
RATING REQUIREMENTS. Under FAR Section 61.31(f)(3), the category
and class rating limitations of FAR Section 61.31 do not apply to
operation of aircraft certificated as experimental. This
includes aircraft originally certificated as other than
experimental, but subsequently modified, as well as amateur-
built experimental aircraft.
In short, the CFI and manufacturer are correct.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KEN FERRARA <KENFER(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming main spar |
When is the best time to trim the excess off the outboard end of the
main spar to attach the wing tips ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
>Someone design a tool that will cut a score line in the plastic and serve as a
>hammer to break it.
Check out web page. Go to ORDER which will take you to the
on-line catalog. Then: TOOLS, HIGH TECH. Look at the Life Hammer, LH-002. I
have never seen one but it looks interesting. It has a console holder and
may be something useful for breaking out of a canopy. They also have a
selection of survival knives which may be useful. I have an old style
standard-issue Army knife, which are readily available (big blade, saw back,
heaver than standard hunting knife [more inerta when swinging it]). I never
leave home without it. Keep it in the leg pocket of my flight suit.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Can't fly ENOUGH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ATTN ALL RV-LISTERS |
Paul,
I think that was a mistake. I doubt Craig intended to send it to the RV
List.
>
>I really hate spammers, so we should all join together and stop the spam!
>
>Please, EVERYONE on the list, send this guy an email telling him to stop
the
>spam...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
I am working on the lettering on my instrument panel and was wondering
about how nit-picky I need to be -- or rather how nit-picky I might
expect an inspector to be, about labeling of controls and switches. For
example, I have "CARB HEAT THROTTLE PROP MIXTURE". Do I also strictly
need to put "PULL ON, PUSH RICH, and all that? And with the flaps -- I
have it labeled just as "FLAPS", do I really need "UP and DOWN"? "ON
OFF" for other switches, etc.?
I'd just as soon not add all that extra lettering for things that any
pilot will know (had BETTER know), but I wonder if anyone has had an
inspector say they had to. I'd hate to have to use a dymo labelmaker
after doing all this nice work on the lettering.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | Craig "Spamer" Lenz |
I hope that this is not a new trend for the list. If my name is going to
used for commercial purposes I will be off this list for good. Matt Dralle
please help and stop this spam. I sent Mr Lenz a message stating that he not
send me any more spam and this is the response that I received:
<From Craig Lenz
< You people are such a joke. I take it you have no productive time
| Date: | Oct 21, 1998 |
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>Does my friend need to
>take some tailwheel training and get an endorsement before/in addition to
>the in type training he intends to take?
I think your friend needs to get his priorities right. Get the tailwheel
checkout so he doesn't wrap his new airplane into a ball of metal/fabric/
plastic/whatever this thing is made of on its first (and successive) flights!
Forget the fed and endorsments in the logbook, do it becuse it's the safe
thing to do.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp details, rearranging shop for wing jigs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV UPDATE |
The damage that led to the failure could have occurred at a prior
time/incident and then failed during the fatefull flight through no error or
cause of their making. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
Your friend is correct---a tailwheel endorsement is NOT required for
Experimental Amateur Built nor for ultralights. Legal issues aside--common
sense and your insurance provider will want you to have an endorsement. GET
ONE. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related |
<< The following was sent to me by Corsair. I have encouraged him to keep
writing and I will post his occasional muses. >>
Al
Thanks. There are those of us who are grateful.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
They are messy and not especially suited to ac use. Get one and you will see.
Maybe ok for some quick priming of small parts. Get yourself a touch up gun
for small parts and a Binks 2001 (or -Astro-Devillbis-etc) or similar for
priming and finish painting and you will not regret it. An airbrush can be
usefull too for priming rivet lines. Get the small cup for the Binks and then
when you do your final paint get a standard size drip proof cup. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
| Subject: | RE: ATTN ALL RV-LISTERS |
Better yet, copy the same email 10 or 20 times and send all of them.
> ----------
> From: Besing, Paul[SMTP:PBesing(at)pinacor.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 9:01 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: ATTN ALL RV-LISTERS
>
>
> I really hate spammers, so we should all join together and stop the spam!
>
> Please, EVERYONE on the list, send this guy an email telling him to stop
> the
> spam...
> If he gets 1000 emails, I don't think he will be sending us anything else!
> DO NOT REPLY to the email, send him a new one, directly. You MUST change
> the email address
> to:
>
> lenzc(at)sk.sympatico.ca
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Send him NOTHING! Once he gets a validated e-mail from you, you're on his
list as well as anyone he sells his list to.
Gary Corde
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Size |
>Listers;
>I am still working on my electric system, and after reading all of the
>books on the subject, (including AeroElectric), I still dont understand
>what size breaker I should use for the main breaker. Vans manual shows
>30-40amp, others show as much as 60amp. The 8-ga power wire that goes
>from the alternator to a circuit breaker, then to the bus. What size
>breaker to use? I have a 40 amp alternator, running very light VFR. I
>have a 35 amp and a 50 amp breaker; which if any should I use? Also, my
>alternator is 'internally regulated'. I assume this means I can bypass
>the separate regulator as shown on most schematics?
>
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Von,
I've seen the responses from everyone else including the Master (Bob)
himself.
To me, the answer lies in the size of the wire that runs from the alternator and
its length. Determine the highest amperage that the wire can carry for the
distance, and bingo, that's the size breaker you need.
By remembering that the breaker (fuse) is present to protect the wire, I've been
able to easily determine breaker size on each circuit in my RV-6. Hope this
helps.
Randy Pflanzer RV-6 "Special Angel"
N417G - Finishing the wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming main spar |
KEN FERRARA wrote:
>
>
> When is the best time to trim the excess off the outboard end of the
> main spar to attach the wing tips ?
I never trimmed mine off. I trimmed around the top and bottom so the tip
could slip in. My rational was that maybe someday, for some reason
(damage???) I may need to put the wing back in a jig.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
I would greatly appreciate if you would remove me from your e-mail list...
Thank You
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PingoBingo <sadams(at)pingobingo.com> |
While thinking about the pitch-up after wing failure on the RV-8, I
remembered having read about the test-flying of the Grumman Bearcat,
where the outer portion of the wing was designed to shed under very high
G's; in every case, when the wing-tip came off, the pilot experienced a
sudden pitch-up. Might this be similar?
Bob
Adams, building -6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
<19980902.115256.8550.0.SMcDaniels(at)juno.com>
| From: | Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
Joe,
The report does not say the plane was flying straight and level, only that
one person thought that was the case. Eyewitnesses are notoriously
unreliable. NSTB report writers know this ... one can see that by reading a
few of them.
- Ian
>
>Scott:
>would be the first to admit that. However, the NTSB report gives a detailed
>version of parts coming off of the plane in level flight. No excessive
>gees could
>who reads the thing is entitled to their own opinion. Most of the disagreement
>appears to be centered around whether or not failure actually occurred in
>"straight and level flight", as reported.
>
>Respectfully,
>
>Joe Walker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Craig "Spamer" Lenz |
Oops, my bad. I mistook Craig Lenz for an RV-List subscriber who hit the
wrong button by mistake. Apparently he is not, and his message was spam.
Yuck.
Tom Craig-Stearman
>
><From Craig Lenz
>< You people are such a joke. I take it you have no productive time
>| Date: | Oct 21, 1998 |
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
>Mike,
>
>Your friend is nuts if he doesn't get tailwheel instruction.
All,
Apparently I wasnt clear based on the responses I'm getting. My friend
will be getting in-type instruction in the ultralight trainer version of
the airplane he is building, from an ultralight instructor. He will be
fully checked out before he makes the first flight. The question was, since
the instructor isnt a CFI he wont have a logbook endorsement, does he need
the endorsement to fly an experimental? From the folks who understood what
I tried to ask, the answer seems to be no from a legal standpoint but
probably yes if he is going to insure the airplane.
In a similar hypothetical situation, suppose a private pilot with
experience flying RVs (but without a high performance endorsement) had an
opportunity to fly a Harmon Rocket (yeah, I wish!), could he do so? It
would seem that the answer is yes, the high perf endorsement isnt required
to fly an experimental.
Thanks for the input,
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Not if you change your profile to state the sender email address and the
reply to address to a bogus email address,
like me(at)blabla.com
>
>Send him NOTHING! Once he gets a validated e-mail from you, you're on his
>list as well as anyone he sells his list to.
>
>Gary Corde
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming main spar |
I trimmed mine after I took them out of the jig.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage upright
-----Original Message-----
When is the best time to trim the excess off the outboard
end of the
main spar to attach the wing tips ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Walker" <fwalker(at)insurquote.com> |
| Subject: | building a plane |
i am considering building an RV-6 and would like to see one finished and
one in progress before I start this project. if any one in the Provo or
Salt Lake area wouldn't mind letting me take a look. please e-mail me at
fwalker(at)insurquote.com
thanks Frank Walker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming main spar |
Never did, notched top and bottom of spar to allow fiberglass tips to slide on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"RV-List: From the office of Craig Lenz" (Oct 20, 6:21pm)
| Subject: | Re: From the office of Craig Lenz |
>--------------
>
>Hello,
>
>Craig Lenz here.
>
>I am sending you this message as a special press release from my
>office to yours. We have exchanged business information in the
>past and due to the nature of the timing involved, I felt it appropriate
>to use my in-house mailing list to get this info to you ASAP. If you
>receive multiple copies of this I apologize for not being able to cull
>out the duplicate names with different email addresses. Please do
>not consider this a Spam message as we have communicated
>before and I felt you would want to receive this message. If not
>please delete now... with my apologies.
>
>
>
>---------------
Dear Craig,
The RV-List is comprised of over 1000 RV builders and enthusiasts and is
dedicated to *related* discussions. While I consider 'commercial' postings
related directly to aviation appropriate, use of the List for blatant
'spamming' is entirely unacceptable. I will not administer an administrative
block of your email at this time, but I will not hesitate to do so at the
first sign of additional 'spam' or harassment of other members on your part.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4: Rear spar dimpling |
>
> I couldn't find any reference to this in the builders manual or plans.
> Should I dimple these or is this something specific to the RV-6?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glen Watson
> RV-4 Wings
Glen; I had to drill out some rivits in the rear spar and
countersink them. I think that these rib numbers are correct, however
you need to check them to be sure. Just figure out where the flap brace
will go and the aileron gap seal. These need to be flush where they
rivet to the spar. I never seen anything in the manual or prints either,
just had to figure it out for myself. You will probably find several
things like this.
Good Luck Carroll, RV-4 finishing up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 weight and balance |
Listers
I weighed the -4 today on scales that are questionable at best.
The results are as follows
Right main 446 LBS
Left main 444 LBS
Tail wheel 51 LBS -I have the landoll dampner on the ring gear.
Total 941 LBS
The plane is unpainted, VFR, and no lights.
The weight seems a little heavy to me, I may be able to weigh
the plane next month on scales that might be a little more
accurate but I plan to have it signed off and flying before then.
Do there numbers fall somewhere in the norm for an unpainted
RV-4?
Crunching the numbers with the pilot and fuel it falls well within
the CG limits.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
However, since it is legal to have a CFI give the owner instruction in his
airplane, you can have and get the endorsement after the fact. It might be
useful if you want to fly some one else's taildragger.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Acker <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tailwheel endorsement
>
>>airplane isnt certified. He claims (as does the manufacturer) that the
>>tailwheel endorsement is only required for certified aircraft. This sounds
>>incorrect to me. Opinions from any CFIs out there
>
>Mike,
>
>>From FAR Part 61:
>
>14. EXCEPTION OF EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT FROM CATEGORY AND CLASS
> RATING REQUIREMENTS. Under FAR Section 61.31(f)(3), the category
> and class rating limitations of FAR Section 61.31 do not apply to
> operation of aircraft certificated as experimental. This
> includes aircraft originally certificated as other than
> experimental, but subsequently modified, as well as amateur-
> built experimental aircraft.
>
>In short, the CFI and manufacturer are correct.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
Sure has that nailed!!! Sure your name isn't "Corsair"?????
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tailwheel endorsement
>
>In a previous message, it was written:
>>Does my friend need to
>>take some tailwheel training and get an endorsement before/in addition to
>>the in type training he intends to take?
>
>I think your friend needs to get his priorities right. Get the tailwheel
>checkout so he doesn't wrap his new airplane into a ball of metal/fabric/
>plastic/whatever this thing is made of on its first (and successive)
flights!
>Forget the fed and endorsments in the logbook, do it becuse it's the safe
>thing to do.
>
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 emp details, rearranging shop for wing jigs
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | proud rivets update |
Hello list:
First of all, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my problem I
had with my wing spar rivets both on and off list. All responses were
helpful and encouraging. I would especially like to thank George Orendorff
for his time. He was gracious enough to allow me to give him a call and
bounce some ideas off of him. Thanks George.
I am happy to report that I was very successful in removing the offending
rivets, as well as some that were boarder line. I used a method that was
suggested where I pilot drilled through the manufactured head to within
about 1/4 " of the shop head with my trusty 8" drill press from Sears
(thanks Bob Vila!) and then drilled out progressively larger untill I had a
tube left of a rivet. After snapping off the manufactured head, I was able
to drive the rivet back out without any damage to the spar. Worked great.
The key is to get the spar level to the drill press and to back out with the
bit every once in awhile to clear out the AL shavings.
One word of advice from all of this. When you insert your 3/16th inch
rivets prior to setting, tap the heads of those that might have been hard to
insert into their respective holes with a small hammer. This will insure
that they are seated all the way onto the spar web.
Again, thanks group!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
wing spar
Peshtigo, Wi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuselage Wiring Runs |
Its time to cut holes through the F-604 (main spar carry-through) for wires
running aft. I'm planning on running wires for position lights, a landing
light, and the three multi-strand cables for a set of Whelen strobes (the
model with one power supply).
Suggested locations??
Also, if you recommend running the wires through the spar, is it a BAD idea to
put a disconnect in so I don't have to remove all the wiring to pull the
wing(s)? Will I get noise if I don't shield the disconnect for the strobes?
If so, how do I make a shield?
Replies appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Roll |
| From: | planejoe(at)Juno.com (Joe D Wiza) |
Smokey mountain knife works
2320 Winfield Dunn Parkway
Severivile, TN, 37862
423 453 5871
This knife store has got anything and everything in this line I'm sure
they would send U a catalog. When My 6A is ready to make an ascension
I'll check here (they may be on the costly side.
planejoe(at)juno.com
RV6A fusleage right side up
>
>
>K-bar make a "USAF Pilots Survival Knife" that sounds similar.
>It looks like a shortened Marine K-Bar with a hacksaw blade forming
>the back of
>the blade. The blade is 3/16" thick and about 6" long by 1" wide.
>Finding someone who stocks them is a problem. I bought mine in the US
>in '95 at
>a specialist knife retailer but couldn't find a stockist this year for
>a second
>one.
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 6/6A:Rollover Protection/Escaping after Rollove
>Author: "Terrence C. Watson" at fdinet
>Date: 20-10-98 13:43
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>In the mid 60s, the USAF installed a big bayonet (military knife) in
>the
>cockpits of all the T-37's at Williams AFB, and I assume all other
>training
>bases, for the specific purpose of allowing someone to cut their way
>out of
>a canopy that wouldn't blow off with the explosive system. I remember
>the
>process was demonstrated to us on a discarded canopy, and it wasn't an
>easy
>task to drive the knife point through the canopy and saw a hole in it,
>but
>it was a whole lot better than nothing, and might have worked pretty
>well
>when powered by adrenaline. The T-37 canopy may have been thicker
>than the
>RV canopies, so maybe it would work pretty well.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related |
Listers,
I guess I'm soft hearted too. I just got back from drowning 6 puppies and
poisoning the neighbors cat, walked in the house, slapped my wife around, beat
the kids and checked my e-mail. To my dismay I found that Corsair had quit
writing to the list. Well, don't that just beat all.
I read some of his writing, deleted some of it and didn't even get a sore
on
my finger when I deleted it. I figure after spending two thousand dollars on a
computer and countless hours learning how to use it, it doesn't hurt that bad
to use the delete key without expressing great pain and inflicting that pain
on others. What I can't understand is, if Corsair likes to write and the majority
of
the list wants him to write, why would he quit because a couple of guys flamed
him. Now come on Corsair, who's the cry-baby now. If you need a place to
belong you found it, why would you quit now. If you want someone to stroke
you, go to a massage parlor. If you want to write, well we're here to read.
These views are not necessarily my own, batteries not included.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Meeting of two killers |
I concur...it was very good!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KEN FERRARA <KENFER(at)erols.com> |
Does anyone have photo's or advice on building a fuselage jig for an
RV-4 ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I took off my nose wheel, cut back the fairing and did two separate dye
penetration tests after progressively polishing the area with finer and
finer paper - ended up with #600. Happy to report nothing found, except
that it sure is harder to get at that one bolt after all the tubes and
pipes are in place than when first building the machine!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
For those already having a zipgun (me) there is a fairly easy solution
to the cup problem. Take a baby food jar (after it's empty) drill a
hole in the top for the feed tube, fasten this cap to the zipgun top
plastic part with a couple of screws, cut the pickup tube to length, and
voila, a convenient small spray apparatus for a few parts. I also have
a Binks touch-up gun, however, since I had already bit for the zipgun,
it's less of a cleanup chore than the Binks, and it's handy if you only
want to prime a few small parts.
Fred Hiatt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 weight and balance |
Craig,
Those numbers are very close to mine. I believe mine totals 971,
with a bunch of paint. The c.g. was favorable all the way
around, with me able to carry more weight in the back (c.g. wise)
than I am comfortable with. Have fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
---Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
> Not strictly RV related but I will ask anyway. A friend is getting
very
> near to first flight on his homebuilt (not an RV, a 2 seat
ultralight he is
> building as an experimental). He has a private pilot cert, but no
tailwheel
> endorsement as of yet (his airplane is a taildragger). The kit
manufacturer
> provides transition training in their factory demo plane, but the
> instructor is not an FAA certified CFI, instead he is USUA
certified. This
> USUA instructor has told my friend that a tailwheel endorsement isnt
> required to fly his airplane even though it carries an N number
because the
> airplane isnt certified. He claims (as does the manufacturer) that the
> tailwheel endorsement is only required for certified aircraft. This
sounds
> incorrect to me. Opinions from any CFIs out there? Does my friend
need to
> take some tailwheel training and get an endorsement before/in
addition to
> the in type training he intends to take?
> Feel free to respond off list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 fuse
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
Mike:
Maybe yes and maybe no. According to the 1996 FAR 61.31 (h) (3) he
may not. If his DAR says he must in the operating limitations, then
he does. My RV-6 Operating Limitations has the following: "10. The
pilot-in-command of this aircraft must, as applicable, hold an
appropriate category/class, have an aircraft type rating, or have a
flight instructor's logbook endorsement, and have a "letter of
Authorization" from the FAA." As I understand my operating
limitations, the PIC of my aircraft must have a tailwheel endorsement
or fall under the grandfather clause of logged PIC time in a tailwheel
aircraft before it was required. The DAR that I used has licensed
most of the Harmon Rockets in Southern California including
Bakersfield. This is a standard clause that he uses.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra going out of business? |
For what it is worth, I was able to order a Terra nav, indicator, and
transponder from stock at Chief Aircraft so clearly Terra/Trimble is still
producing radios.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Wiring Runs |
Hi all,
Kyle wrote:
> Its time to cut holes through the F-604 (main spar carry-through) for wires
> running aft.
Same for me. I believe someone suggested notching the ends of the spars so that
wing pulling wouldn't affect wiring. Is this a safe thing to do? Would backing
plates that looked like big washers be advisable or just overkill?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Panel mount GPS survey results |
Well, I know you have been waiting in breathless anticipation of the
results of my highly scientific, mission critical survey of panel mount GPS
receivers. Here are the results:
Respondents: 12
Manufacturer number
IIMorrow (Apollo) 6
Trimble 4
Garmin 1
Skyforce 1
IIMorrow is clearly the front runner. I was surprised at how many have
Trimble receivers and how few have Garmin.
Thanks to all of you who responded.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Wiring Runs |
I ran my wires thru the torque tube cutout in the
ends of the spars. You can protect them with
heat shrink or whatever. Several clamps to hold
the wire bundle in a corner of the cutout should be
used. No additional hole in the spar web is necessary.
No disconnect is required. Disconnects can cause problems down
the road.
Stew Bergner RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Indiana area RV's Fly-out |
Hi Lister's,
Indiana area RVs are meeting for "Brunch" @ the French-Lick Resort. SUNDAY
Oct. 25th, weather permitting.
Leaving Speedway Airport at 9:15 am. Monitor 122.75 enroute. Plan to meet at
the French-Lick Airport about 10:00 am. Free shuttle van. All area RV's are
invited! The food is "Great", it is listed in the "Landings" $100.00
Hamburgers WEB Site. 4- Star
Weather will be good. Jim Nolan is in charge of the weather. Gary and RV-3
N5AJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: any 1 know any clubs? |
--RV6aJMW(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know any clubs in LA area in California?????????I am building
a 6a and
> need a club that can help me with tools and other stuff. Also how I
can share
> a hanger. Don't forget to check out my site.
> Click here: rv6ajmw
>
> justin&don
> thanx
Justin & Don:
Just about ever EAA chapter in So. CA has an RV being built. I belong
to EAA Chapter 1000 and 448. EAA 448 at Cable Airport in Upland, has
a hangar and rents out 7 or 8 spaces to builders. They also have a
milling machine, break, shear, and roller. There are three RV-6(A)
being built there. My mailing address is Manhattan Beach but the
airplane is hangared 50 miles away at Cable. It only takes 50 minutes
to get there on Saturday morning. I share with a T-18 and am sorry
that I do not have more room. The South Bay RVATOR newsletter stopped
about 4 years ago when the editor moved. Of the 25-35 builders in the
area, none (including myself) wanted to take charge and keep the NL
going. I know of 4 of us who were in that group that are now flying.
I have been approached by 2 flying RV-6(A) pilots and one builder
about getting together a Southern California Wing of Van's Air Force.
We all think it is a good idea and want to join but none of us wants
to be the one to organize everything. I am willing to join this group
if it ever starts but do not have the time to be the one to start it.
I would love to be a part of a Southern California RV Blackjack
Squadron. Would have to find a different name as our friends in
Seattle picked that one first. Would love to be part of an RV flight
to fly into the Southern California International Airport for the
George Air Show that features the Thunderbirds on October 31 - 1
November.
When someone starts a Southern California RV group, I WILL JOIN IT. I
am willing to be a charter member. Now who is going to start it?
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4: Rear spar dimpling |
writes:
<< I was reading Will Cretsinger's wing instructions and found the following:
"c. The second rivet from the top in the rear spar for ribs 6 through 9
must be flush aft to accommodate the flap brace. Dimple the spar and ribs
accordingly.
d. The bottom rivet in the rear spar for ribs 10 through 13 must be flush
aft to accommodate the aileron gap seal. Dimple spar and ribs accordingly."
I couldn't find any reference to this in the builders manual or plans.
Should I dimple these or is this something specific to the RV-6? >>
As far as I know, there are similar structures on the RV-4 wing (Don't you
have flap braces and aileron gap seals on 4s?). To my recollection it was not
in the RV-6/6A plans either, but was mentioned in George Orndorff's video.
If you look at the profile views of these areas, you will see why (or if) it
needs to be done. A universal head in these rear spar rib attach areas (at
least for the 6/6A with which I'm acquainted) would interfere with the
subsequent attachment of the flap brace and aileron gap seal which require a
flush fit with the spar.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
Listers,
I saw a spring loaded metal punch used to break auto glass by rescue
personnel. I wonder if it would be applicable to plexiglas canopies? I'm
on my second canopy so I'm not volunteering for a test! Certainly worth
trying on scrap, if anyone has some around the hangar. Just a thought.
Best regards,
John
-6A, Chevy powered, weeks away from 1st flight
-----Original Message-----
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>
>>Someone design a tool that will cut a score line in the plastic and serve
as a
>>hammer to break it.
>
>Check out web page. Go to ORDER which will take you to the
>on-line catalog. Then: TOOLS, HIGH TECH. Look at the Life Hammer, LH-002. I
>have never seen one but it looks interesting. It has a console holder and
>may be something useful for breaking out of a canopy. They also have a
>selection of survival knives which may be useful. I have an old style
>standard-issue Army knife, which are readily available (big blade, saw
back,
>heaver than standard hunting knife [more inerta when swinging it]). I never
>leave home without it. Keep it in the leg pocket of my flight suit.
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Can't fly ENOUGH.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Wiring Runs |
<< Also, if you recommend running the wires through the spar, is it a BAD idea
to
put a disconnect in so I don't have to remove all the wiring to pull the
wing(s)? Will I get noise if I don't shield the disconnect for the strobes?
If so, how do I make a shield? >>
Just include the shield drain wire in your termination of the cable disconnect
(a 4 pin Molex connector would work for the 3 strobes wires + shield). Do the
same on the mating cable. The small area not completely shielded won't likely
cause a problem as long as it doesn't sit right next to an unshielded low
level circuit (bad form anyway).
We shield the strobes because they're the antagonist and also shield the low
level circuits (mic, audio) because they're the victims. If you've observed
this "two bagger" (old joke) philosophy, you should be okay.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: any 1 know any clubs? |
do u have any picturres on the computer of your rv6a????do u have any tools
left over???how long did it take for u to build???i like the 6 out of all the
rv'sit is the easyset to fly but fast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 weight and balance |
Craig
Sounds like you are going to fall in very close to the factory numbers, give
or take a pound or two, here or there, for paint and stuff like that there. I
do not even hope to come anywhere near that.
I'd use some more accurate scales, if possible, for the final totals. After
all, precise is nice, esspecially when you are planning on one of those
weekend cross country flights, with back seat baggage.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related |
HEAR! HERE!!!! BRAVO!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: JimNolan <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Meeting of two killers-Flyng but not RV related
>
>
>
>Listers,
> I guess I'm soft hearted too. I just got back from drowning 6 puppies
and
>poisoning the neighbors cat, walked in the house, slapped my wife around,
beat
>the kids and checked my e-mail. To my dismay I found that Corsair had quit
>writing to the list. Well, don't that just beat all.
> I read some of his writing, deleted some of it and didn't even get a
sore on
>my finger when I deleted it. I figure after spending two thousand dollars
on a
>computer and countless hours learning how to use it, it doesn't hurt that
bad
>to use the delete key without expressing great pain and inflicting that
pain
>on others. What I can't understand is, if Corsair likes to write and the
majority of
>the list wants him to write, why would he quit because a couple of guys
flamed
>him. Now come on Corsair, who's the cry-baby now. If you need a place to
>belong you found it, why would you quit now. If you want someone to stroke
>you, go to a massage parlor. If you want to write, well we're here to read.
>
>
>These views are not necessarily my own, batteries not included.
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuselage jig |
Wasn't someone giving one away recently?
-----Original Message-----
From: KEN FERRARA <KENFER(at)erols.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuselage jig
>
>Does anyone have photo's or advice on building a fuselage jig for an
>RV-4 ????
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
>
>Mike:
>
>Maybe yes and maybe no. According to the 1996 FAR 61.31 (h) (3) he
>may not. If his DAR says he must in the operating limitations, then
>he does. My RV-6 Operating Limitations has the following: "10. The
>pilot-in-command of this aircraft must, as applicable, hold an
>appropriate category/class, have an aircraft type rating, or have a
>flight instructor's logbook endorsement, and have a "letter of
>Authorization" from the FAA." As I understand my operating
>limitations, the PIC of my aircraft must have a tailwheel endorsement
>or fall under the grandfather clause of logged PIC time in a tailwheel
>aircraft before it was required. The DAR that I used has licensed
>most of the Harmon Rockets in Southern California including
>Bakersfield. This is a standard clause that he uses.
>
I was puzzled by this thread because I was sure that we were missing
something. Then I thought (when I saw it here) that the catch was the
Operating limitations. But it is not here either. I have never seen any
operating limitations that did not have some form of the above paragraph.
This solves the catagory and class bugaboo because the airplane doesnt
require a Type rating or an Letter of Authorization (LOA). It does not
solve the tailwheel issue.
They typically say like yours do that you must have one of 3 things. (as
applicable)
1 Category and Class ticket. (this is the catch all for anything that doesnt
require 2 or 3)
2 Type rating ( this is for an experimental version of a certified airplane
that requires a type rating)
3 A flight instructors endorsement and a LOA (This is for airplanes that
require an LOA as described in the Inspectors Handbook)
You will not find anything about LOA's in the FAR's. It is all in the FAA
inspectors Handbook. The Handbook says that if you have an experimental
aircraft with more than 800 hp or surplus military turbine, then you must
have a LOA and an endorsement from a flight instructor.
The tailwheel catch is here. I would maintain that it is still needed
because tailwheel is neither a category or a class of airplane. Category is
Airplane and class is Single engine land. My understanding is that
Tailwheel is not a "class" of airplane. Therefore I do not believe that you
would be exempted from the tailwheel requirement by FAR 61-14.
I am never absoultely certain about this, I never am with the regulations.
I have seen regulations that were much clearer than this that the FAA chose
to read a different way than I do. In short, I don't believe it would be
wise from a legal or a practical standpoint to fly any tailwheel airplane
that has a N# on the tail without meeting the tailwheel logbook
requirements.
Standing by with the asbestos underwear..
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
break it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming main spar |
> When is the best time to trim the excess off the outboard end of the
> main spar to attach the wing tips ?
This fits into the "don't trim/rivet anything until you have to" category.
I still think that is the best overall advice that I received prior to
building.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
THIS POST STATES NOTHING AS TO THE CAUSES OF THE -8 PROTO ACCIDENT (no
accident is caused by any single event).
I enjoy the freedom of the "X" certificate as much (if not more) than anyone
else, but trim runaway is another one of the differences between homebuilts
and spam (I can't technically say, " 'X' vs spam" as the spam I am in most
often is also 'X'). In the case of trim runaway (by ANY failure mode) here
are the FARs -greatly paraphrased. With the aircraft in the landing
configuration, the trim must be able to run for a time of "recognition of
failure PLUS 1 SECOND" without either over stressing or stalling the
aircraft. With the aircraft in cruise configuration, the trim must be able
to run for a time of "recognition of failure PLUS 3 SECONDS" without either
over stressing or stalling the aircraft. I would be interested to know how
the RV electric trim compares to these FARs.
All FAR 25 airplanes (and I think modern FAR 23, too) with electric trim
have to have a double switch to activate (Cooley Hat or two switches); one
to provide power, and the other to provide direction (up or down). Also,
for those with A/Ps, a monitor has to be provided in the form of a moving
trim wheel or "clacker" to say the trim is moving.
Electric trim NOT on the wish list,
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel endorsement |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> The tailwheel catch is here. I would maintain that it is still needed
> because tailwheel is neither a category or a class of airplane. Category is
> Airplane and class is Single engine land. My understanding is that
> Tailwheel is not a "class" of airplane. Therefore I do not believe that you
> would be exempted from the tailwheel requirement by FAR 61-14.
>
> I am never absoultely certain about this, I never am with the regulations.
> I have seen regulations that were much clearer than this that the FAA chose
> to read a different way than I do. In short, I don't believe it would be
> wise from a legal or a practical standpoint to fly any tailwheel airplane
> that has a N# on the tail without meeting the tailwheel logbook
> requirements.
>
> Standing by with the asbestos underwear..
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> www.petroblend.com/dougr
YOu make some good points Doug. Several years ago I was on Compuserve
and one of the people that would post frequently to the aviation forum
was then head of FAA Tony Broderick. I ask him and quoted the FAR that
you
did and his answer back to me was you do not need a taildragger
endorsement
for a experimental airplane. Luckily I am grandfathered because I
learned to
fly in a Taylorcraft in 1964 but I agree with you I would not leave home
with out it. BTW do you guys still do the chat thing?
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Annealing oven |
Iam trying to find an annealing oven to do the rivets on my RV... Does
anyone out there have one they want to sell?
Feel free to contact me off the list... Markvn(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSN mail" <solanas(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
to your carburetor?
Thanks,
Rick Solana, N804RS
getting real close!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Van's Pages |
In a message dated 10/21/98 12:36:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com writes:
<< I don't want this to turn in to a E-mail debate... >>
This subject has received quite enough attention in this medium. If you want
to speculate, do it privately via E-mail. and not on the list. There is quite
enough junk to wade through already.
Regards,
Merle (RV-4 Chevy V-6 N727MM) flyin' in '99 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)corotec.com |
Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't already know this, but apparently,
polyester resin has a shelf life of less than 3 years or so.
The other day I attempted to do some of the small fiberglass work which
most of us metal airplane folk dread, and I used some polyester resin that
had been used for some minor repair work about 3 years ago without any
problems. I carefully mixed the proper portions of resin and hardener and
applied the glass. An hour later it hadn't even begun to cure so, thinking
it might be temperature related, I moved the parts to a warmer (above 70
deg F) area. The next day it still hadn't fully cured and I was left with
a partially cured, sticky, gooey, fiber-mess. Yuk! How do people build
entire airplanes out of this stuff?
I won't bore you with the ridiculous things I tried in order to get this
stuff to set properly - use your imagination 'cause I tried everything. I
finally gave up and bought some new resin and hardener at the local
hardware store.
Needless to say, it worked just fine and I didn't even need any
incantations this time.
Moral of the story: check yours if it's been sitting awhile because it may
not cure and you too will be cussin' and scrapin'
away at one of the most disgusting, sticky, gooey messes you've ever seen...
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
Rick,
Glad you asked, as I just re-did mine recently. I installed an alum tube
bushing into the mixture lever bolt hole. I pressed in a small piece of
thick wall tubing (don't have the dimensional data handy), then filed it
flat on both sides, and drilled it out for an AN3 bolt clearance...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MSN mail [SMTP:solanas(at)email.msn.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 1998 6:45 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: attaching mixture cable to carburetor
>
>
> I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
> mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
> has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
> carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
> to your carburetor?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick Solana, N804RS
> getting real close!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuselage jig |
KEN FERRARA wrote:
>
>
>
> Does anyone have photo's or advice on building a fuselage jig for an
> RV-4 ????
Where do you live? I have one that I'll give you.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX -4 finishing up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Escaping after Rollover |
Has any one considered another option?
How about going through the fuselage skin?
The plating is only slightly thicker than foil and should be easy to cut with a
hunting knife or similar if the level of urgency was high enough. This would
require access to a large enough flat area from the cockpit, perhaps the tail
cone?
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
Date: 21-10-98 22:11
I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
break it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 weight and balance |
In a message dated 10/21/98 6:55:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, craig-
RV4(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Total 941 LBS >>
That's pretty good! What is your engine/prop combo and have you installed an
interrior. That Landoll weight is about 20 pounds alone!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
In a message dated 10/22/98 7:21:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
solanas(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
to your carburetor? >>
Your carb might be different from mine but I used a Clevis Fitting and Clevis
Pin (3/16"). You can get the part from Vans p/n F-453A.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
A bearing is over kill, use a AN486-1032 from AS&S - $4.95. It is on p 129
of my catalog.
-----Original Message-----
From: MSN mail <solanas(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 6:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: attaching mixture cable to carburetor
>
>I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
>mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
>has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
>carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
>to your carburetor?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rick Solana, N804RS
>getting real close!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
I think it would be very difficult from the front seat, or the
rear seat of a four, to squirm around and get past either the
front seat/roll bar, or the rear seat to get into the rear
fuselage to cut your way through the skin. I would think the
canopy would be the only way out, without major tools at hand.
I bet David Copperfield could do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Probably wasn't your resin but the catalyst. Try mixing new Ethyl Ethyl
Ketone Peroxide with your resin and see if it sets up in a cup. Sometimes
one can increase the amount of the old and make it work.
P.S. I am not aware of any planes having structural parts made with
polyester resin. Most use an epoxy which is much different.
But there are shelf life limit on it too.
P.S. I can't imagine anyone sealing a tank with ProSeal either.
-----Original Message-----
From: bstobbe(at)corotec.com <bstobbe(at)corotec.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 8:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: fibergoo
>
>Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't already know this, but apparently,
>polyester resin has a shelf life of less than 3 years or so.
>
>The other day I attempted to do some of the small fiberglass work which
>most of us metal airplane folk dread, and I used some polyester resin that
>had been used for some minor repair work about 3 years ago without any
>problems. I carefully mixed the proper portions of resin and hardener and
>applied the glass. An hour later it hadn't even begun to cure so, thinking
>it might be temperature related, I moved the parts to a warmer (above 70
>deg F) area. The next day it still hadn't fully cured and I was left with
>a partially cured, sticky, gooey, fiber-mess. Yuk! How do people build
>entire airplanes out of this stuff?
>
>I won't bore you with the ridiculous things I tried in order to get this
>stuff to set properly - use your imagination 'cause I tried everything. I
>finally gave up and bought some new resin and hardener at the local
>hardware store.
>
>Needless to say, it worked just fine and I didn't even need any
>incantations this time.
>
>Moral of the story: check yours if it's been sitting awhile because it may
>not cure and you too will be cussin' and scrapin'
>away at one of the most disgusting, sticky, gooey messes you've ever
seen...
>
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Annealing oven |
> Iam trying to find an annealing oven to do the rivets on my RV... Does
>anyone out there have one they want to sell?
> Feel free to contact me off the list... Markvn(at)aol.com
Please don't do this as you are only asking for trouble. Regular rivets
will give excellent results if you use proper sheet metal techniques and
quality tools (Cleveland dies and a good gun).
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
>I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
>mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
>has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
>carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
>to your carburetor?
>
Use a bushing. I found that a piece of 1/4" OD copper tubing can be easily
reamed to an ID of 3/6". Remember to use a capture washer on these connections.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>
> Has any one considered another option?
> How about going through the fuselage skin?
> The plating is only slightly thicker than foil and should be easy to cut with
a
> hunting knife or similar if the level of urgency was high enough. This would
> require access to a large enough flat area from the cockpit, perhaps the tail
> cone?
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
> Author: MICHAEL at fdinet
> Date: 21-10-98 22:11
>
>
> I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
> work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
> almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
> break it....
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, Billy" <billy.wilson(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Access cover |
Will,
This is a tricky question. Van's people probably
know the answer, because they have tested the
structure, and it didn't fail near this door (I'm
talking about the RV-6 wing test that is documented
in the newsletter). If I tried to analyze this, I could get any
answer I wanted, based on the assumptions I used.
Ken Spinks and I discussed this, and we ended up
disagreeing on the effectivity of fixed (as opposed to floating)
nutplates and dimpled skins. He thinks they are not as
effective as I do. He has analyzed more structure like this
than I have, but I have built more airplanes than him. (.5 vs. 0)
The manufacturing methods we use in industry are geared towards
mass production than hand crafted. Which is better? Is one
builder better than another? I doubt I will ever work my airplane
anywhere near limit load, so I'll probably never know. BCW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
<< I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
to your carburetor?
>>
Collet-style cable grip threaded into appropriate size rod bearing. the wire
diameter of the cable may have to be filed down to fit the collet; ask me how
I know... Smooth carefully if you do this; we don't want stress risers on the
cable.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel markings |
I know that different inspectors have different criteria, but the inspector
that I had was adamant on including this info. Push - On, trim direction,
etc. I asked someone that recently had an inspection with the guy that was
going to do mine what things the inspector "bounced". This was one of them.
This builder had spent a lot of time making the panel with a row of switches
above an obviously corresponding row of breakers. The inspector also wanted
duplicate information on the breakers AND switches.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
>I am working on the lettering on my instrument panel and was wondering
>about how nit-picky I need to be -- or rather how nit-picky I might
>expect an inspector to be, about labeling of controls and switches. For
>example, I have "CARB HEAT THROTTLE PROP MIXTURE". Do I also strictly
>need to put "PULL ON, PUSH RICH, and all that? And with the flaps -- I
>have it labeled just as "FLAPS", do I really need "UP and DOWN"? "ON
>OFF" for other switches, etc.?
>
>I'd just as soon not add all that extra lettering for things that any
>pilot will know (had BETTER know), but I wonder if anyone has had an
>inspector say they had to. I'd hate to have to use a dymo labelmaker
>after doing all this nice work on the lettering.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
Sure blow up your rescuers!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>
>dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
>
>Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Has any one considered another option?
>> How about going through the fuselage skin?
>> The plating is only slightly thicker than foil and should be easy to cut
with a
>> hunting knife or similar if the level of urgency was high enough. This
would
>> require access to a large enough flat area from the cockpit, perhaps the
tail
>> cone?
>>
>> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>> Author: MICHAEL at fdinet
>> Date: 21-10-98 22:11
>>
>>
>> I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
>> work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
>> almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
>> break it....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
Maybe we should carry a battery drill and wrong kind of bit!
hal
> I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
> work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
> almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
> break it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
I know I have seen this before on the list, but I can't seem to find it in
the archives. Does someone have a chart, or know of a web address with the
chart for determining wire sizes based on length, current, etc?
thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit almost here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marr <marr(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | List Problem (Check Message Date!) |
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
> Then I noticed that I had received messages dating back
> into last month. These were not duplicates of messages
> that I already recieved. This has happened at least twice
> before; has anyone else seen this phenomenon? I can't
> imagine my ISP queueing messages in this fashion, but
> neither can I imagine the list server holding them up.
>
I too have seen this phenomenon, about once a month as a
rough average. Very recently, I saw a message that was
dated very close to the expected month & day-of-month, but
it was dated 1996!
Based on this, I strongly suspect that some (all?) of these
misdated messages may be based on someone's PC clock being
set improperly.
To test this theory, I'm going to alter my PC clock to
Jan 1, 1995 before sending this email. If it shows up with
the current date (22 Oct 1998), I guess my theory is blown
and I'll go back to musing about what causes it! :^)
If my theory is correct, I'll try to send a polite message
(off list!) to anyone whose message seems based on a bad
date/time setting.
P.S. It seems that due to time zones, I often see a reply to
a question before I read the question. This seems to be an
entirely different phenomenon, which probably has no simple fix
unless the list server could convert them all to GMT (UTC).
P.P.S. Anyone running Windows can check/set their clocks (time
AND date) by double-clicking the time display in the taskbar
(if you have it enabled for display). Alternatively, go to
the Control Panel and select Date/Time.
Bill Marr (RV-8 emp)
Byron, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
Wouldn't be better to ream out the collet than file on the cable?
But you missed this one as it already has an solid threaded end on the
cable. He wants to get an threaded bearing end to screw on this cable end.
Besides buying a threaded fork end which can be gotten is the proper size.
This is the lightest way, but he can use a bearing end that fits the cable
end by bushing the arm. The attaching bolt will not want to rotate, that is
why he wants the bearing end. I still would recommend that he uses a
drilled bolt and castelated nut with cotter key for safety.
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: attaching mixture cable to carburetor
>
>
><< I'm surely missing something. Everyone seems to be using 10-32 threaded
> mixture cables. Yet I have not seen a 10-32 threaded rod end bearing which
> has a large enough hole in the bearing to match the large hole of the
> carburetor's mixture control arm. So how are you all attaching this cable
> to your carburetor?
> >>
>
>Collet-style cable grip threaded into appropriate size rod bearing. the
wire
>diameter of the cable may have to be filed down to fit the collet; ask me
how
>I know... Smooth carefully if you do this; we don't want stress risers on
the
>cable.
>
>-BB
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Problem (Check Message Date!) |
Your theory appears to be correct as your e mail arrived dated 1 Jan 95
Ed
Marr wrote:
>
>
> To test this theory, I'm going to alter my PC clock to
> Jan 1, 1995 before sending this email. If it shows up with
> the current date (22 Oct 1998), I guess my theory is blown
> and I'll go back to musing about what causes it! :^)
>
> If my theory is correct, I'll try to send a polite message
> (off list!) to anyone whose message seems based on a bad
> date/time setting.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: List Problem (Check Message Date!) |
Sorry the date shown from you is 10/22/98
-----Original Message-----
From: Marr <marr(at)shianet.org>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 2:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: List Problem (Check Message Date!)
>
>Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
>>
>> Then I noticed that I had received messages dating back
>> into last month. These were not duplicates of messages
>> that I already recieved. This has happened at least twice
>> before; has anyone else seen this phenomenon? I can't
>> imagine my ISP queueing messages in this fashion, but
>> neither can I imagine the list server holding them up.
>>
>
>I too have seen this phenomenon, about once a month as a
>rough average. Very recently, I saw a message that was
>dated very close to the expected month & day-of-month, but
>it was dated 1996!
>
>Based on this, I strongly suspect that some (all?) of these
>misdated messages may be based on someone's PC clock being
>set improperly.
>
>To test this theory, I'm going to alter my PC clock to
>Jan 1, 1995 before sending this email. If it shows up with
>the current date (22 Oct 1998), I guess my theory is blown
>and I'll go back to musing about what causes it! :^)
>
>If my theory is correct, I'll try to send a polite message
>(off list!) to anyone whose message seems based on a bad
>date/time setting.
>
>P.S. It seems that due to time zones, I often see a reply to
>a question before I read the question. This seems to be an
>entirely different phenomenon, which probably has no simple fix
>unless the list server could convert them all to GMT (UTC).
>
>P.P.S. Anyone running Windows can check/set their clocks (time
>AND date) by double-clicking the time display in the taskbar
>(if you have it enabled for display). Alternatively, go to
>the Control Panel and select Date/Time.
>
>Bill Marr (RV-8 emp)
>Byron, Michigan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/22/98 3:10:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
PBesing(at)pinacor.com writes:
<< I know I have seen this before on the list, but I can't seem to find it in
the archives. Does someone have a chart >>
This chart can be found in Tony B's books.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
Paul,
In the lower left corner of Van's wiring diagram in the construction
manual there's a diagram with some of this info.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
John
-6A, Chevy powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Does someone have a chart, or know of a web address with the
>chart for determining wire sizes based on length, current, etc?
>
>thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit almost here!
>
AC 43.13 p 179 .OR. aeroelectric.com
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV-ation Bookstore new site |
Come see our new RV-ation Bookstore web site:
http://www.rvbookstore.com
Its 100 times better looking.
Its a lot easier to get around.
Its got some new stuff.
And best of all, its got MY flying 6A on the front page.
(everyone tell me what you think of the paint job)
New items
1] Aero-Electric Connection Version 8
2] RV-8 Finishing Kit video (ready in 3-4 more days)
3] Panel Planner software
4] Aerodynamics for Naval Aviators (much requested, so now we can
all understand what Van has been talking about.)
5] Sport Plane Resource Guide
6] Lycoming 0-320 / 0-360 Overhaul manual
7] Starter Package - 4 items for the beginner discounted as a package
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060 (flying)
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
>
>Besides buying a threaded fork end which can be gotten is the proper size.
>This is the lightest way, but he can use a bearing end that fits the cable
>end by bushing the arm. The attaching bolt will not want to rotate, that is
>why he wants the bearing end. I still would recommend that he uses a
>drilled bolt and castelated nut with cotter key for safety.
And don't forget to add a spring that will pull the carb's mixture lever to
the full-rich position should the mixture control cable fail.
I also have a spring to move the throttle to mid position (2/3 or 3/4,
whatever works for your aircraft) should the throttle cable/linkage fail.
Both springs ensure that you have sufficent power to reach a safe landing
site. You can modulate power with the mag switch or the mixture control if
the throttle fails.
No, I have never needed either spring but they do appear to work in tests
in the hangar.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
I have recently been talking to Mike Denuth of Aymar-Demuth Propellers,
(very nice and knowledgable gentleman).
We decided on a 68" x 74" prop for my RV6 with 160hp engine and finish
the prop with grey paint instead of the standard varnish finish. The
painted finish allows easier monitoring of stone chips.
Anyway, has anyone used this prop, what performance can be expected
(climb rate, cruise speed, prop rpm static and full power)? Any
comments on using a painted finish as opposed to varnish?
Regards Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
There is a simple version in the electrical pages of Van's doc - small table, with
crude wiring diagram near front of my book.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
susan dawson wrote:
>
>
> dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
>
Yeah, who needs ear drums anyway.
My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, you need to have one,
and I bet if you were motivated you could go right through the canopy.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Runaway |
----------
>
>
>(snip)
>All FAR 25 airplanes (and I think modern FAR 23, too) with electric trim
>have to have a double switch to activate (Cooley Hat or two switches); one
>to provide power, and the other to provide direction (up or down). Also,
>for those with A/Ps, a monitor has to be provided in the form of a moving
>trim wheel or "clacker" to say the trim is moving.
>
>Electric trim NOT on the wish list,
>
>Ron
>FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
>
>I have been (at least vaguely) aware of the FAR 23 requirements and plan to
address them three ways
1. Mechanical stops (if feasible) to limit tab movement to that
necessary to trim between high cruise and 1.3 Vs0.
2. Intentionally slow trim speeds--I've gotten used to this on a c-337
I fly regularly and it's not a problem as long as control forces aren't too
high.
3. A "trim enable" switch under my fifth finger on the stick grip which
must be depressed for the servo to be powered (in addition to the "coolie
hat")
There have been many accidents in certified aircraft related to trim
problems, frequently involving a confused pilot flying a controllable(if
barely) airplane into the ground because of unexpected trim pressures.
I also am a fan of experimental regs, but I think that most of FAR 23 is
there for a reason. Many of these requirements are related to specific
accidents where a system failure was involved. Where possible, I am going
to try to build my airplane to FAR 23 standards, or at least have a good
reason not to
James Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leif Stener" <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se> |
| Subject: | Sliding canopy problem. |
My problem is that the plexi wont fit the window and canopy frontframe on
the right side. Its ok on the for-aft top frame and the left side. I have
drilled the hole for the lock-tube. I know the plexi willbe flimsy when I
do the cut, can I do that now before I drill the plexy to the window-frame
and slidingfront-frame?
Leif Stener, RV-6 finishkit in Sweden.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Netters . . . many of you might be nearing my age where you're half way home
(50 years down, 50 years to go). If so, you probably are at a point where
the eyes are weakening and you need the cheap $10 magnifying glasses for
reading. I've been using these, but when I fly I have to remove my
sunglasses, throw these on, then replace the sunglasses--and all of this
isn't aided when wearing a headset.
FYI there is a small, clear plastic "lens" that you can stick onto the
bottom of sunglasses, turning them into bifocals. I did a search on the net
and found the following website where these are displayed (and can be
ordered). You might also find them in a local drug store--but I called my
optometrist and he didn't carry them (although he knew about them). Anyway,
I thought I'd share this.
www.boatshow.com/MARINEMARKET/LENSES/OptxOrderUSA.html
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
Potential RV-8a builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
If you had no canopy when to went over, you wouldn;t have to remove it.
Cecil
Thousand Oaks, CA
writes:
>
>
>susan dawson wrote:
>>
>>
>> dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
>>
>
>Yeah, who needs ear drums anyway.
>
>My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, you need to have one,
>and I bet if you were motivated you could go right through the canopy.
>
>Craig Hiers
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Yes my father was very adamant about always using a clear finish on a
ladder. Why? so you can see the dry rot and catch it before it become
hazardous. Same thing for a prop. How can you tell if it is beginning to
rot if you can't see the discoloration. On the other hand, many props are
painted so it can be done and if hangared, there is no problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 5:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Propeller
>
>I have recently been talking to Mike Denuth of Aymar-Demuth Propellers,
>(very nice and knowledgable gentleman).
>
>We decided on a 68" x 74" prop for my RV6 with 160hp engine and finish
>the prop with grey paint instead of the standard varnish finish. The
>painted finish allows easier monitoring of stone chips.
>
>Anyway, has anyone used this prop, what performance can be expected
>(climb rate, cruise speed, prop rpm static and full power)? Any
>comments on using a painted finish as opposed to varnish?
>
>Regards Peter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
A spring might be nice for the mixture but since both controls push for
full, it is hard to fail a cable in compression. Is the spring really
necessary or is it like wearing suspenders with a belt? My throttle is a
cable with a sleeve on the end so that it would work to push if the flexible
part of the cable, 1/8 stranded steel would part. One would have to be very
strong to break such a flexible steel cable. On the other hand the internal
cable for my mixture is 0.90 piano wire. It could break, but it took almost
50 years and 2300 hours for it to wear in half from vibration, before I
brazed in a new wire core. It never did fail and your should be able to see
the wear in time to replace it. That is why we inspect airplanes. You are
not going to be running this plane 2000 hours in a year. That is 50 weeks
and 40 hours each week.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: attaching mixture cable to carburetor
>
>>
>>Besides buying a threaded fork end which can be gotten is the proper size.
>>This is the lightest way, but he can use a bearing end that fits the cable
>>end by bushing the arm. The attaching bolt will not want to rotate, that
is
>>why he wants the bearing end. I still would recommend that he uses a
>>drilled bolt and castelated nut with cotter key for safety.
>
>And don't forget to add a spring that will pull the carb's mixture lever to
>the full-rich position should the mixture control cable fail.
>
>I also have a spring to move the throttle to mid position (2/3 or 3/4,
>whatever works for your aircraft) should the throttle cable/linkage fail.
>Both springs ensure that you have sufficent power to reach a safe landing
>site. You can modulate power with the mag switch or the mixture control if
>the throttle fails.
>
>No, I have never needed either spring but they do appear to work in tests
>in the hangar.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Problem (Check Message Date!) |
The message sent with the SYSTEM date set incorrectly did post to my
server with the date he said.
I have sent messages and it has taken one month before they posted. I
think there was a problem with my server and it got qued (or is it
cued :-) ) to be sent. The message was posted after I had a message
that the mail server was down and would be back up soon. IMHO, there
are many possibilities and SYSTEM time is just one of them.
This message sent:
or 23 October 1998 @ 0010 Zulu time.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
> And don't forget to add a spring that will pull the carb's mixture lever to
> the full-rich position should the mixture control cable fail.
>
> I also have a spring to move the throttle to mid position (2/3 or 3/4,
> whatever works for your aircraft) should the throttle cable/linkage fail.
> Both springs ensure that you have sufficent power to reach a safe landing
> site. You can modulate power with the mag switch or the mixture control if
> the throttle fails.
>
> No, I have never needed either spring but they do appear to work in tests
> in the hangar.
>
How did you attach the springs? I looked at mine could not see a
good way to set this up.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy problem. |
>
>My problem is that the plexi wont fit the window and canopy frontframe on
>the right side. Its ok on the for-aft top frame and the left side. I have
>drilled the hole for the lock-tube. I know the plexi willbe flimsy when I
>do the cut, can I do that now before I drill the plexy to the window-frame
>and slidingfront-frame?
>
>Leif Stener, RV-6 finishkit in Sweden.
My canopy fit the rollbar/canopy frame fine on the RH side and top. It was
about 3cm away at some points on the LH side though.
I marked the cut line and went at it, both the windshield and canopy fit the
rollbar fine afterwards, but I know had a "wedge" on the LH side now. I
simply cut the wedge out.
The canopy is definitely THE hardest part so far. Unless the canopy matches
your rollbar/slider frame within 2-3mm, I would do the cut first and then
drill the canopy to the frame.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy problem. |
> My problem is that the plexi wont fit the window and canopy frontframe on
> the right side. Its ok on the for-aft top frame and the left side. I have
> drilled the hole for the lock-tube. I know the plexi willbe flimsy when I
> do the cut, can I do that now before I drill the plexy to the window-frame
> and slidingfront-frame?
YES YES YES!!!
I don't know if it's that Van's instructions that aren't clear enough or
what, but many people seem to have this question. You should DEFINITELY
make the cut in the canopy before you get too far. It will not only
"get floppy" but the fit will change quite a bit, the sides of the
windscreen will lift up and out, the back of the bubble will change
shape, etc. So if you try to trim perfectly and/or drill it to the
frame before making the cut, then when you do make the cut you are
likely to be very unpleasantly surprised.
Yes it may seem like you can't be as precise as you want with the cut
since you don't have it all fit down perfectly. THAT'S OK cause you still
do some adjustment of the pieces, and trim the front of the bubble or
back of the windscreen to make the seam even without screwing up the fit.
Besides, you don't really have to make it that perfect since the fairing
will cover a multitude of sins.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: DON'T WAIT -- MAKE THE CUT.
If you don't believe me, check the archives.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy problem. |
Leif Stener wrote:
>
> My problem is that the plexi wont fit the window and canopy frontframe on
> the right side. Its ok on the for-aft top frame and the left side. I have
> drilled the hole for the lock-tube. I know the plexi willbe flimsy when I
> do the cut, can I do that now before I drill the plexy to the window-frame
> and slidingfront-frame?
>
> Leif Stener, RV-6 finishkit in Sweden.
>
Yes
That's the way I did it and most agree it is a much better sequence of tasks.
You will have to trim the windshield and or the canopy portion where they meet.
D Walsh slider with 333 hrs (checking nose leg tonight with dye penetrant)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In a message dated 10/22/98 6:47:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com writes:
<< How about going through the fuselage skin? >>
Works for me!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In a message dated 10/22/98 3:25:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, craig-
RV4(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, >>
If the fire extinguisher is CO2, a good blast on the canopy to get the temp.
down would probably allow the "tool of destruction" to penetrate and/or
shatter the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy problem. |
Time is tight for actually writing up the procedures for the sliding canopy. I
can see why Van's write up is so lacking (toss it in the can!) and why Jim
Cone's, which was a great help to me, still seems lacking. It is hard to do
this. Anyway, here is the outline that I have so far. Two main points are :
-1- Get the frame fully installed before going near the plexi. Opens & closes
easily; locks; is within the skin.
-2- Fit the plexi fore and aft to make it fit the center bar of the frame &
front, back and sides will be okay.
Corrections and criticisms WELCOME!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking at Lycomings
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
===========================================================================
make the rear slider track and tape in place
This track seems to need to be well back so some bashing of the F6112 is
necessary. Install the long 1/4 inch screw rod but just tape the track itself.
grind off the upsticking lock stub and some of the rear box
The rear box is at an odd angle so grind it to match the line of the
track when in closed positiion.
squeeze feet of frame
Squash the end of the tube slightly so that the roller stub shafts bind
and must be forced in or out. This aids in adjustment of the canopy frame
height.
squeeze frame or cut to width
Some frames are too wide or otherwise mismanufactured. The canopy frame
must be narrower than the width of the fuselage so that the side skirts will be
flush with the fuselage skin when installed. The skirts can be more easily
shimmed to be farther out but it is real hard to push them in.
mount frame
Mount the rollers in the tracks and the frame on the rollers. Push the
frame forward till it is against the bolted side of the roll bar then drill the
other side of the roll bar, the rear bolt, and bolt it up. Nice if the roll
bar remains perpendicular to the centerline but what is more important is that
the canopy frame sits inside the fuselage line. Less important is that the rear
track can be mounted on the centerline. Use plastic ties or wire to bind the
canopy frame and roll bar together at the bottom. Be sure that the frame, with
an allowance for skirts, is inside the skin. The rear track might not center
but that can be adjusted later. Now the other track can be bolted up.
trim F6112
Now it is safe to trim the rear skin to two or three inches from the
canopy bow.
fit spacer/shim between frame and rollbar
Fit a spacer shim the thickness of the space at the bottom of the roll
bar between roll bar can canopy frame front bow at the lock area. The aim here
is to get the bar and the frame front bow parallel all around. Tie the bow and
bar together at the lock point. Move the rear of the canopy frame up or down so
that the guide pins or bullets are about 1/2 inch from the canopy deck. If the
frame is too high the rear skirts will not fit right or have to have a compound
bend. If the frame is the right height, the skirts will be a continuation of
the single curve of the F6112.
make & fit the blocks
Drill the blocks per the plans by clamping at one angle in your drill
press vise and tilting the press table for the smaller angle. Attach to canopy
deck per plans but wait to drill the rear horizontal bolt till the canopy is
closing nicely. Use Dremel tool or other small grinder to shape blocks to
funnel in the canopy frame bullet. Note that the bullet may be welded on wrong.
fit frame rear track block
adjust frame to open and close
line up bows & adjust rollers and pin in place
fit latch so that it pulls up snug to roll bar
fit roll bar shims and front mount bolts.
make & fit side skirts
prime everything
now it work just fine but there is no plastic.
set plastic on
trim off to bends
trim 1/2 inch at a time to match fore and aft to frame center bar
make the big cut
attach windshield clecos
attach front frame bow clecos
attach down the center bar from front
attach side skirts trimming as you go
attach back bow
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: read very important |
take me out of this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In the mean time die of asphyxiation or lack of oxygen. Pure CO2 is NOT
breathable.
-----Original Message-----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>
>In a message dated 10/22/98 3:25:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, craig-
>RV4(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><< My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, >>
>If the fire extinguisher is CO2, a good blast on the canopy to get the
temp.
>down would probably allow the "tool of destruction" to penetrate and/or
>shatter the canopy.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I found these lenses at a local Walgreens for $20. They are also in the
Sporty's catalog for about $25. I've had them on my Serengetis for about 6
weeks now and think they're wonderful. If you've gotten to the reading
glasses stage, you really need these lenses.
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
>
> FYI there is a small, clear plastic "lens" that you can stick onto the
> bottom of sunglasses, turning them into bifocals. I did a search
> on the net
> and found the following website where these are displayed (and can be
> ordered). You might also find them in a local drug store--but I called my
> optometrist and he didn't carry them (although he knew about
> them). Anyway,
> I thought I'd share this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Escaping after Rollover |
Assuming your oxygen system is operating.....
CO2 is TOXIC in confined spaces.
Yes it will probably chill your canopy but without breathing
protection you will be dead before you clear the aircraft.
CO2 is a lousy fire fighting agent for occupied spaces. Halon 1201 is
still approved for aircraft use (at least in Australia) since you can
put out a fire and still breath the air afterwards.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
Date: 22-10-98 20:35
In a message dated 10/22/98 3:25:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, craig-
RV4(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, >>
If the fire extinguisher is CO2, a good blast on the canopy to get the temp.
down would probably allow the "tool of destruction" to penetrate and/or
shatter the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Breaking Canopy / Survival |
For those interested, there is a great web site (non-profit,
non-commercial--i.e. nothing being sold) that includes well thought-out
lists of things to include in a one-man, two-man, over-water, etc. survival
kit. This is geared toward pilots. The web site is:
www.equipped.com/basic.htm
Sorry, nothing here that I found on breaking through a canopy. No explosive
bolts. No CO2 to take your breath away. No torch.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
Potential RV-8a builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
----------
> From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vision
> Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 5:42 PM
>
> Rick,
You are absolutely correct about the "stick on" magnifiers. I have been
using them on my military style sunglasses for over 1 year and they've made
my flying life much simpler and safer.
"SPORTY'S" also carries them. They are listed in their sunshade section.
Regards,
Deal Fair
George West, Tx
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
> If the fire extinguisher is CO2, a good blast on the canopy to get the temp.
> down would probably allow the "tool of destruction" to penetrate and/or
> shatter the canopy.
I imagine after filling the cockpit with CO2 asphyxiant (remember, you're
trapped upside down in an airplane on the ground with no flow-through
ventilation) that you will be in a king-sized hurry to bash a big hole in the
plexi. One breath is about all the time you'd have.
If Dr. Kevorkian was your flight surgeon, this would be the prescribed way to
make your exit...
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Escaping after Rollover |
Actually a friend of mine uses detcord on his canopy/windows during
ferry flights on cessnas and pipers when access is difficult due to
overload tanks in the event of a ditching.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
Date: 22-10-98 08:03
dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>
> Has any one considered another option?
> How about going through the fuselage skin?
> The plating is only slightly thicker than foil and should be easy to cut with
a
> hunting knife or similar if the level of urgency was high enough. This would
> require access to a large enough flat area from the cockpit, perhaps the tail
> cone?
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
> Author: MICHAEL at fdinet
> Date: 21-10-98 22:11
>
>
> I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
> work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
> almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
> break it....
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: read very important |
>
> take me out of this
>
you will have to take yourself out. the CO2 gas inside the closed cockpit
seems to be the new preferred method, but for extra effectiveness, try taping
over your mouth and nose with duct tape first.
if it's off the list you want, try reading the directions at the bottom of
every piece of mail the list sends you, and following them. we can't do it
for you, unless we steal your internet address, and that would be beneath our
dignity.
good luck unsubscribig. it can be done. others have, and you can learn from
their success.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
You can go to the manufacturers site for more info...
http://www.neoptx.com/
This site has information about "stick-on" bifocal lens for sunglasses. You
can buy from Walgreen's.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 6:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vision
>
>Netters . . . many of you might be nearing my age where you're half way
home
>(50 years down, 50 years to go). If so, you probably are at a point where
>the eyes are weakening and you need the cheap $10 magnifying glasses for
>reading. I've been using these, but when I fly I have to remove my
>sunglasses, throw these on, then replace the sunglasses--and all of this
>isn't aided when wearing a headset.
>
>FYI there is a small, clear plastic "lens" that you can stick onto the
>bottom of sunglasses, turning them into bifocals. I did a search on the
net
>and found the following website where these are displayed (and can be
>ordered). You might also find them in a local drug store--but I called my
>optometrist and he didn't carry them (although he knew about them).
Anyway,
>I thought I'd share this.
>
>
>www.boatshow.com/MARINEMARKET/LENSES/OptxOrderUSA.html
>
>Rick Jory
>Highlands Ranch, CO
>Potential RV-8a builder
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
----------
> From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Propeller
> Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 9:14 AM
>
>
>
>
> We decided on a 68" x 74" prop for my RV6 with 160hp engine and finish
> the prop with grey paint instead of the standard varnish finish. The
> painted finish allows easier monitoring of stone chips.
>
> Anyway, has anyone used this prop, what performance can be expected
> (climb rate, cruise speed, prop rpm static and full power)? Any
> comments on using a painted finish as opposed to varnish?
>
> Regards Peter
Peter,
Have a friend who flew his just recently completed (10.5 hours since
10-2-98) RV-4 over today. He has this very same prop (and it is painted
grey) swung by an 0-320 160 horse.
He lives 49 nautical miles away. He claims his GPS indicated 178 KNOTS at
2,400 RPM and 2,000' ASL coming over. (There was a strong tail-wind
component.) He stayed about 4.5 hours and flew directly back. He reported
148 KNOTS on the return trip at the same setting. That's an average of 163
Knots or 189 MPH. "GEEZ!
My other -4 wingman friend and I are debating whether to get the prop or
pour sugar in his fuel tanks.
He hasn't reported any climb data yet as he is just breaking in. This
surely isn't scientific, but early indications look promising.
Personally, I like the clear varnish, simply for esthetic reasons only.
Regards,
Deal Fair (RV-4)
George West, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: read very important |
I think that it is this"lack of" paying attention to details, and this "lack
of" patience that has brought many to write such things like "unsubscribe
from this crap," and "take me out of this," when the answer to most of their
lives problems lies just beyond their reach. . . . in this case. . . .the
bottom of their email page. . . .in the instructions.
I enjoy the "spirit" of this list, and feel that I am amongst friends of the
same character and understanding. . . . . . and I appreciate ANYONE who puts
personal feelings into a post. To me, anyone can buck a rivet or fly an
airplane, but it takes a person with feelings, personality, and character to
build an aircraft that expresses one's self personality and character. . . .
. and you can see it in this list!
Thank you to everyone who feels that their contributions to this list are
helpful and appreciated, because. . . .they ARE! Please keep including the
"softhearted" comments, along with all of the extremely useful and helpful
technical data!
An "easily impressed" & "cry baby" RV-lister,
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45 (finishing spar mod, left wing)
Socorro, NM
-----Original Message-----
From: Jmw116(at)aol.com <Jmw116(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: read very important
>
>take me out of this
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
according to a class the faa in portland oregon put on last spring...they say halon
will kill you also....Maybe I was sleeping when I went thru this....please correct
me if i'm wrong...
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
> Assuming your oxygen system is operating.....
> CO2 is TOXIC in confined spaces.
> Yes it will probably chill your canopy but without breathing
> protection you will be dead before you clear the aircraft.
> CO2 is a lousy fire fighting agent for occupied spaces. Halon 1201 is
> still approved for aircraft use (at least in Australia) since you can
> put out a fire and still breath the air afterwards.
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
> Author: JNice51355(at)aol.com at fdinet
> Date: 22-10-98 20:35
>
>
> In a message dated 10/22/98 3:25:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, craig-
> RV4(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << My thoughts were to use the Fire Extinguisher, >>
> If the fire extinguisher is CO2, a good blast on the canopy to get the temp.
> down would probably allow the "tool of destruction" to penetrate and/or
> shatter the canopy.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In a message dated 10/22/98 8:19:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
<< If Dr. Kevorkian was your flight surgeon, this would be the prescribed way
to
make your exit... >>
O.K. O.K. guys, I get the message. It wasn't thought through, I admit it.
However, I was only looking at it from the angle of trying to figure out a way
to cause canopy breakage.
Oh, by the way, we should try to find out how many folks ending up upside
down, had a problem at all. One fellow that had a bird strike, had the canopy
shatter on impact with the bird, and he just had to "open up" the hole a bit
more.
One fellow suggested getting rid of the canopy before the airplane touches
down.
There has to be a logical answer to emergency egress.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State(No more CO2)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
<< On the other hand the internal
cable for my mixture is 0.90 piano wire. >>
I would call that a piano rod?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 aft fuse parts |
RV8 folks,
I'm kinda confused (yeah, tis true) about the 819 plate, and misc angle
pieces and spacers that attach to bulkheads 810, 811 and 812 serving to
support this plate, the HS, and VS. The manual says to drill all these
parts in place....then....what? Do they stay clecoed until fitting the
HS and VS later on, or should they be riveted/bolted in place for good
before moving on to the forward cabin area tasks? Also, does the manual
trim cable come in the finish kit? I'm not seeing anything that
resembles such a thing, unless it is bundled up with the rudder cables.
Semi-confused in Albuquerque,
Brian "makin' airplane noises now" Denk
RV8 #379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
I can only dream of the day that all I'll have to do is
wonder about how to get out of an upside down airplane in
the water. Until then, here's Adrian's top five ways to
escape from a ditched airplane in the ocean:
5. The impact with the water, if strong enough to jam the
frame, will break the glass anyway, so don't worry about it.
4. Carry a pony bottle. For those of you who haven't done
the scuba thing, a pony bottle is an small emergency air
supply. Then, imagine you're Jock Custow (or however you
spell it) and enjoy the scenery on the way down.
3. CARRY A SAWED OFF SHOTGUN WITH SLUGS AND SAY, "Go ahead,
make my day..." right before you blast your way out. (Hey,
that one might actually work).
2. Attach amphibian floats to the top of the airplane.
(Hey, they laughed at Noah too!)
And, the number one way to escape from an upside down
airplane in the ocean is.....
..........drum role, please...........
1. Remember the guy who said "TAKE ME OFF THIS LIST, TAKE ME
OFF THIS LIST...."? Well, just say, "OPEN SESAME, OPEN
SESAME, OPEN SESAME...."
Ha! I just KILL myself. Sorry guys, but I feel SO much
better now.
Adrian Chick - -6A empennage (right side up). :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve.Dixon(at)ibm.net |
| Subject: | Non pre-punched RV-6 tail instructions needed |
Hello Listers, (especially those of you that built before the days of
pre-punch)
I have a friend that has had an old, non pre-punched, RV-6 tail kit that he
is just now getting around to building. A couple of years ago, when I was
first considering building an RV, I think I found a supplemental set of
instructions for a non PP kit. I can't remember now who wrote them or where
I found them. If any of you have, or know where I could find instructions,
hints, tips for a non PP RV-6 tail would you please email them to me, or at
least point me in the right direction?
Many thanks in advance
Steve Dixon
sdixon(at)laker.net or ssdixon(at)ibm.net
Ft. Lauderdale
RV-8
left wing done workin on the right
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
Detcord??? You have to be kidding. Being inside a closed cockpit in a
crashed aircraft, with ferry fuel tanks on board and in the cabin (and
possibly leaking) and he is going to use an explosive to blast his way
free. While the explosive cord will undoubtedly clear the plexiglass
away, I don't think your friend will much care after it goes off.
Ed
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>
> Actually a friend of mine uses detcord on his canopy/windows during
> ferry flights on cessnas and pipers when access is difficult due to
> overload tanks in the event of a ditching.
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
> Author: susan dawson at fdinet
> Date: 22-10-98 08:03
>
>
> dumb thought...how about explosive bolts?
>
> Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Has any one considered another option?
> > How about going through the fuselage skin?
> > The plating is only slightly thicker than foil and should be easy to cut with
> a
> > hunting knife or similar if the level of urgency was high enough. This would
> > require access to a large enough flat area from the cockpit, perhaps the tail
> > cone?
> >
> > ______________________________ Reply Separator
> _________________________________
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
> > Author: MICHAEL at fdinet
> > Date: 21-10-98 22:11
> >
> >
> > I tried a spring loaded center punch on an old canopy. Didn't
> > work. I even backed the boat into it accidently, and mashed it
> > almost flat. Didn't break. Of course, If I was trying not to
> > break it....
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
I got it!
Carry a caged bird inside the cockpit. When you need to go through an
emergency egress, uncage the bird and duck.
;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>
>In a message dated 10/22/98 8:19:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
>
><< If Dr. Kevorkian was your flight surgeon, this would be the prescribed
way
>to
> make your exit... >>
>O.K. O.K. guys, I get the message. It wasn't thought through, I admit it.
>However, I was only looking at it from the angle of trying to figure out a
way
>to cause canopy breakage.
>Oh, by the way, we should try to find out how many folks ending up upside
>down, had a problem at all. One fellow that had a bird strike, had the
canopy
>shatter on impact with the bird, and he just had to "open up" the hole a
bit
>more.
>One fellow suggested getting rid of the canopy before the airplane touches
>down.
>There has to be a logical answer to emergency egress.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State(No more CO2)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy problem. |
On 23 Oct 98, at 0:36, Leif Stener wrote:
>
> My problem is that the plexi wont fit the window and canopy frontframe on
> the right side. Its ok on the for-aft top frame and the left side. I have
> drilled the hole for the lock-tube. I know the plexi willbe flimsy when I
> do the cut, can I do that now before I drill the plexy to the window-frame
> and slidingfront-frame?
If I understand the question correctly, I believe the answer is "yes." I
was never able to drill the canopy to the roll bar nor to the slider frame
until after I'd cut the canopy in half. That (and other discrepancies
between Van's '96 canopy instructions vs reality) is why I recomend
Jim Cone's canopy instructions. Best $5 I ever spent.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
To the guy in Maine who emailed me via the list a few weeks ago
concerning a demo ride......
I've misplaced your email describing where you are located. Please
resend as my RV-6A is now flying again... Please respond off the
list....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV8 Finishing Kit Video available |
All,
Finally... the RV8 Finishing Kit Video is completed and ready for y'all.
It
is $32 for the VHS version and $37 for PAL (overseas customers). Please
email, call (817) 439-3280, fax (817) 439-3279 or stop by for your copy. And
keep up the good work!
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
hey everybody !!!!
freds giving rides !!!
where do i sign up !!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sliding Canopy Fwd Seal |
On the sliding canopy for my RV 6, I have the slider plexiglass almost
touching the windscreen in most places. Do I want the two to touch or
should I leave a gap and put silicon sealant on the windscreen edge?
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Rick Caldwell
canopy & 2-piece wheel pants ongoing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Fwd Seal |
In a message dated 10/23/98 12:17:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Do I want the two to touch or should I leave a gap and put silicon sealant
on the windscreen edge >>
You do not want them to touch because all of the vibration between the two
will cause problems in time. I think the plans call for a 1/8" to 1/4" gap
between the two. Water/air leakage has never been a problem in my canopy.
The fairing between the two does a good job.
Most of the air leaks from the canopy come from the rear and hit you in the
back of the neck. Very good in the summer, very bad in the winter. I can see
out of the gap on the lower sides but no air comes in.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching mixture cable to carburetor |
Damn Decimal Points anyway - 0.090 -
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: attaching mixture cable to carburetor
>
>
><< On the other hand the internal
> cable for my mixture is 0.90 piano wire. >>
>
>I would call that a piano rod?
>
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Fwd Seal |
<< On the sliding canopy for my RV 6, I have the slider plexiglass almost
touching the windscreen in most places. Do I want the two to touch or
should I leave a gap and put silicon sealant on the windscreen edge?
>>
No seal is necessary in this application- the slider plexi wedges into the
flange formed with the epoxy fiberglass.
As a general rule, epoxy shrinks ~2%. This helps to give you (and maintain) a
very tight seal, with no additional work after the initial molding.
Also, you want 1/8" or so between the two pcs of plexi.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
>
> Assuming your oxygen system is operating.....
> CO2 is TOXIC in confined spaces.
Well, not exactly toxic but it sure won't support life if you displace the
air in the cockpit with CO2.
> Yes it will probably chill your canopy but without breathing
> protection you will be dead before you clear the aircraft.
> CO2 is a lousy fire fighting agent for occupied spaces. Halon 1201 is
> still approved for aircraft use (at least in Australia) since you can
> put out a fire and still breath the air afterwards.
Most fire extinguishers in the US are the dry chemical type or Halon. C02
extinguishers tend to be too heavy and bulky to carry in smaller aircraft.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | full-rich spring (was: attaching mixture cable to carburetor) |
>
>Brian Lloyd wrote:
>> And don't forget to add a spring that will pull the carb's mixture lever to
>> the full-rich position should the mixture control cable fail.
>>
>How did you attach the springs? I looked at mine could not see a
>good way to set this up.
I have what I think is the standard mixture/throttle/carb-heat cable
bracket from Vans (I am not positive since my RV-4 was completed in 1987
and there probably have been changes since then). To attach a spring to
the bracket you drill a small hole in an appropriate place into which you
can insert a cotter pin. The head of the cotter pin becomes the anchor for
one end of the spring. The other end of the spring loops over the mixture
control arm up by the cable attachment point. If you pick the spring's
anchor point properly the spring will not slide down the mixture control
arm. It is a hack but it seems pretty secure and I haven't noticed any
wear on the mixture control arm of the carb.
This presupposes that you have the standard carb for an O-320 (MA4-5 if I
recall properly). If you are running something else I can't comment.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Zenith-List: Stratus and AVEMCO (UPDATE) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Boultinghouse <rentabro(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 12:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Stratus and AVEMCO (UPDATE)
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Chris Boultinghouse
>
>I thought those of you on the Zenith list that are using the Stratus
>engine would like to see a copy of the email I received this morning
>from the EAA. Nice to know the system works!
>
>Regards,
>
>Chris Boultinghouse
>Austin, TX USA
>
>*********************************
>
>From: Bob Mackey <bmackey(at)eaa.org>Add to Address Book
>To: 'Chris Boultinghouse'
>Cc: "'Jim Nelson (AVEMCO)'" , Mary Jones
>
>Subject: Subaru Stratus Engine
>Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:45:41 -0500
>
>Chris,
>
>You contacted EAA a couple of weeks ago with concerns about AVEMCO and
>their position regarding the Subaru Stratus Engine. Following your
>contact, several of the members of the EAA Staff meant with
>representatives from AVEMCO and we are pleased to report that subsequent
>to our meetings with AVEMCO on various homebuilt aircraft issues, AVEMCO
>has agreed to immediately change their position and provide insurance
>coverage for homebuilt aircraft with the Subaru Stratus Engine. AVEMCO
>stated they are changing their position only as respects the Stratus and
>will continue to not provide insurance for other Subaru based engines
>due to their concerns arising from engine problems and the subsequent
>claims they have incurred.
>
>EAA will be announcing this good news through EAA publications shortly.
>We are pleased that AVEMCO and EAA are able to continue to work together
>to meet the needs of the homebuilder community. As EAA members bring
>their concerns to EAA Staff we will purse resolution wherever possible.
>
>If you have any questions you wish to address to AVEMCO you should
>contact Jim Nelson at jnelson(at)ave.com
>
>Thanks for your continued support for EAA!
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
> | Visit the Matronics & Zenith-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
>
>hey everybody !!!!
>freds giving rides !!!
>where do i sign up !!!!
Heck, I give rides too. If you are in the Sacramento area (I am at Cameron
Park, O61) I will be happy to show you how an RV-4 performs.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Non pre-punched RV-6 tail instructions needed |
> Hello Listers, (especially those of you that built before the days of
> pre-punch)
Are still building
> I have a friend that has had an old, non pre-punched, RV-6 tail kit that he
> is just now getting around to building.
OLD? Whose kit you callin' old!!!???
> .. I think I found a supplemental set of
> instructions for a non PP kit. I can't remember now who wrote them or where
> I found them.
Uh-oh, you didn't save the rv-list FAQ, did you? :-) In there you will
find links to pages such as the Frank Justice Supplemental Instructions,
at http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice/
Tell your friend good luck with his "old" kit!
Randall Henderson, NON-pp RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
DEPENDS WHERE YOU ARE.....
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [SMTP:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 10:15 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Demo Ride
>
>
> hey everybody !!!!
> freds giving rides !!!
> where do i sign up !!!!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Gummo" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In the F-4, we had a "canopy breaker tool" mounted on the side of the canopy rail.
It was a very heavy knife with a very short blade. It was used with the
blade toward you. As when you hit the canopy, you didn't want it to glance off
and hit you in the head. What made this work was the plex-glass was basically
flat and forced into the canopy frame and therefore is under stress. Once
the tool did its work, plex-glass would want to return to it flat shape and would
continue fly apart. Hopefully, making a whole large enough for egress. I
have seen a couple of demo of this operation. One worked like planned and took
just two hits and then totally broke apart. The second is still going on and
I am not sure if it ever worked.
As the canopy for the RV's has been formed to the shape needed for the plane, you
will have to make you own hole.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
USAF, Major Retired
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Builders in greater Cleveland, Ohio Area |
I am about to send off my first big check to Van's and I am looking for other
RV builders. Are there any RV8's in progress in the greater Cleveland Ohio
area ?
Gary Gembala
Strongsville, OH
WCruiser1(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
> One fellow suggested getting rid of the canopy before the airplane touches
> down.
> There has to be a logical answer to emergency egress.
> Jim Nice
I'm with you here, Jim... but I just don't think the tip-up is jettisonable in
flight due to gooseneck hinge geometry and the lift struts. I wouldn't want
to find out.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
In a message dated 10/22/98 8:51:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
<< according to a class the faa in portland oregon put on last spring...they
say halon
will kill you also. >>
That information is incorrect. If this were so, I would be dead. Halon will,
however, give you a good case of freezer burn if you are too close. My
employer used to use halon fire packs(large extinguishers) connected to smoke
detection equiptment. The equiptment was not that reliable, and from time to
time, they would discharge unexpectedly. Folks standing on ladders near
discharge nozzles usually got a bit of freezer burn.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
The RV-4 that Brian flys / owns is responsible for more RV starts in
the LA Basin than any other RV. I am glad to see that Brian is
continuing in Glenn's tradition.
---Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>
> >
> >hey everybody !!!!
> >freds giving rides !!!
> >where do i sign up !!!!
>
> Heck, I give rides too. If you are in the Sacramento area (I am at
Cameron
> Park, O61) I will be happy to show you how an RV-4 performs.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane,
Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
O-
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
A apropriate escape tool would be nice to carry, but I wonder if you would be
in a condition to use it after a crash? Plexi is tough except when you are
trying to be careful, and a broken arm or two would probably mean remaining
bottoms up until rescued. May all your flights end with the shiny side up!
Gary Bray
Maine
RV-6 N827GB
FAA inspection next week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Escaping after Rollover |
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
Date: 23-10-98 10:03
Well, not exactly toxic but it sure won't support life if you displace the
air in the cockpit with CO2.
>> CO2 is toxic even if the oxygen level is high enough to otherwise
support life as it prevents the haemoglobin in your blood from absorbing
oxygen if the concentration is above 6%, to smother a fire with CO2 you
will go above 18%.
Halon is a different problem in that while it does displace the air but
since it extinguishes the fire by inerting the burning surface it can put
out a fire in much lower concentrations the mixture should remain below the
toxic threshold if used carefully (but I don't recommend trying it for a
hobby). <<
Most fire extinguishers in the US are the dry chemical type or Halon. C02
extinguishers tend to be too heavy and bulky to carry in smaller aircraft.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Must reading for all listers |
Listers,
It's about that time of year again. Those of you who have been on the list
for a while know that about twice a year we like to promote taking up a
VOLUNTARY collection for Matt, our fearless list leader. Now you might ask
yourself, "Why do we do that?" Well the answer is simple: Because Matt
provides all this service for us and only askes that we give what we think
it's worth. Okay, Okay, It really hasn't been worth all that much lately,
but that's all the more reason we should be contributing. If you wish to
exercise that first amendment right to hack at another lister then it is
only right that your name should appear at the top of the list of donors.
After all MOST of us pay our fair share to be here so lets get that credit
card or check book out and put your money where your mouth is! Secure
credit card donations may be made easily and conveniently at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or for those of you already maxed out to Vans on the CC you can send a
check or IOU to:
Matt G. Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, Ca 94551
(IOU's will be posted as such and the list will be made aware of payment
;-) )
Now that all the good reasons have been mentioned let me tell you some of
what your donations are paying for. Just this past weekend Matt finished
upgrading the web server machine to a new dual-processor, 400 Mhz Pentium
II system with 512 Mb of memory and the latest version of Linux. RV
archive searches are now taking only2-3 seconds!! (And that's a search of
over 54MB's of data! Non-indexed!!) And if that's not enough, this weekend
Matt plans to take the old web server system (a dual processor, 200 Mhz
Pentium Pro with 384 Mb of memory) and replace the lowly Sparc2 that is
currently running the mail server. This change should improve the
turnaround time on messages. (Provided your own PC date is set correctly!)
Matt would also like to upgrade his current internet connectivity to serve
US better!
Now I know Matt can't be too happy with what he has seen over the list over
the past few weeks so all you guys out there that have an opinion on just
about everything (and some on nothing) lets get those donations in. It's
really going to say a lot about you when we all see your name on that
contributor list that Matt will post in about a month. Yes you did set
yourself up for this, and yes you can easily get yourself out of it, (write
a check), otherwise I would expect that the list will get back to it's old
purpose of information and civil communication and hope it is generously
funded! You all have a nice weekend................AL
P.S. This message will be posted once per day through the weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
I understand that Halon has been outlawed, too. Seems it comes from the
same family as freon.
-----Original Message-----
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com <Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 7:51 PM
Subject: Re[4]: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>
>
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
>Author: Brian Lloyd at fdinet
>Date: 23-10-98 10:03
>
>
>
>
>Well, not exactly toxic but it sure won't support life if you displace the
>air in the cockpit with CO2.
>
>>> CO2 is toxic even if the oxygen level is high enough to otherwise
>support life as it prevents the haemoglobin in your blood from absorbing
>oxygen if the concentration is above 6%, to smother a fire with CO2 you
>will go above 18%.
>Halon is a different problem in that while it does displace the air but
>since it extinguishes the fire by inerting the burning surface it can put
>out a fire in much lower concentrations the mixture should remain below the
>toxic threshold if used carefully (but I don't recommend trying it for a
>hobby). <<
>
>Most fire extinguishers in the US are the dry chemical type or Halon. C02
>extinguishers tend to be too heavy and bulky to carry in smaller aircraft.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Can anyone sent me the address for GEE BEE Canopies?
Can't find them on the Internet.
tg1965(at)linkline.com
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off list: Crankcase vent line |
>
> > Oil mist captured by condensing out on the s/s media sinks to the bottom
> > of the separator where it runs into a bottle ACS p/n 06-11225 (a clear
> > Matco brake fluid reservoir) equipped with a Saf-Air drain valve ACS p/n
> > CAV-110H4 which gets drained at oil changes.
Does anyone have operational experience with this plastic Matco reservoir
mounted inside the cowl on the firewall? The one I have (ACS p/n 06-11225;
Matco p/n R-100) is rated for a max temp of 120 deg F. I don't want to waste
blast tube air on this reservoir.
Ken Beene
RV-6A
Burnsville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
Listers - I'm coming to the point on my project I'm gonna get to fly this
thing in the not too distant future - at least its down to months to go and
not years. That's good, but its making me clean up the nasty problems I've
known were around but put off in order to do things that were fun. Thus
the subject of this note.
My 0360 A1A started life in 1959 in a Comanche 180. Some of the exhaust
studs look to me like they may be originals - rusty and maybe even eroded
(I don't see any sign of erosion of the aluminum in the exhaust port area).
I don't want to fly with them. What I want to do is remove the studs and
replace with new ones - standard or oversize, as needed.
Just for old time's sake (those good old days with dirty hands, old cars,
brute force, etc., etc.), I tried "double nutting" one and giving it a good
twist. No go. (Also, no damage - ulike the usual case in those good old
days.)
Getting out of that mode, I have checked the Lycoming overhaul manual.
They say to use a collet - type tool. One of our EAA Chapter Tech
Counselors has a tool that sounds like that, so that's available.
I have also checked the RV list archives and found a suggestion on heating
the cylinder and a good instruction on helicoils (hope I don't have to use
that one). But what sounded like the best advice was a comment to "find
out how to do it, and do it right the first time".
So, in that spirit, and after months of "lurking" on the list, I'm asking
for suggestions, tips, etc. on this. I would like to know as much as I can
before exerting serious pressure on those eight little guys.
Thanks in advance,
Keith Williams - RV6 - Moline Illinois
73623.2504(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
Cy,
I hope you're wrong. I fly 737's and we have 4-5 Halon bottles on every one
of our a/c, as well as the rest of the fleet, almost 400 airplanes. The
company pulled our water extinguishers out of the cabin last year and just
left us with Halon.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
>I understand that Halon has been outlawed, too. Seems it comes from the
>same family as freon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
Put your double nuts on. Take a heavy hammer and give a couple taps on the
nutted end like you are driving a nail. That should loosen it up so it will
turn out easily. But it they aren't broke why worry. The heat will make them
look just as bad after 50 hours of flight. Use anti-seize on the brass
nuts, snug up until they don't leak and go work on something else more
important.
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Studs
>
>Listers - I'm coming to the point on my project I'm gonna get to fly this
>thing in the not too distant future - at least its down to months to go and
>not years. That's good, but its making me clean up the nasty problems I've
>known were around but put off in order to do things that were fun. Thus
>the subject of this note.
>
>My 0360 A1A started life in 1959 in a Comanche 180. Some of the exhaust
>studs look to me like they may be originals - rusty and maybe even eroded
>(I don't see any sign of erosion of the aluminum in the exhaust port area).
> I don't want to fly with them. What I want to do is remove the studs and
>replace with new ones - standard or oversize, as needed.
>
>Just for old time's sake (those good old days with dirty hands, old cars,
>brute force, etc., etc.), I tried "double nutting" one and giving it a good
>twist. No go. (Also, no damage - ulike the usual case in those good old
>days.)
>
>Getting out of that mode, I have checked the Lycoming overhaul manual.
>They say to use a collet - type tool. One of our EAA Chapter Tech
>Counselors has a tool that sounds like that, so that's available.
>
>I have also checked the RV list archives and found a suggestion on heating
>the cylinder and a good instruction on helicoils (hope I don't have to use
>that one). But what sounded like the best advice was a comment to "find
>out how to do it, and do it right the first time".
>
>So, in that spirit, and after months of "lurking" on the list, I'm asking
>for suggestions, tips, etc. on this. I would like to know as much as I can
>before exerting serious pressure on those eight little guys.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Keith Williams - RV6 - Moline Illinois
>73623.2504(at)compuserve.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Escaping after Rollover |
"Cy Galley"
in spite of 10 years research. This is the reason it is still
permitted but you need to get a license (at least in Australia).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[4]: RV-List: Escaping after Rollover
Date: 23-10-98 20:06
I understand that Halon has been outlawed, too. Seems it comes from the
same family as freon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Off list: Crankcase vent line |
<< Does anyone have operational experience with this plastic Matco reservoir
mounted inside the cowl on the firewall? The one I have (ACS p/n 06-11225;
Matco p/n R-100) is rated for a max temp of 120 deg F. I don't want to waste
blast tube air on this reservoir. >>
Ken-
That's where mine is mounted and it's plumbed to pick up the oil separator
condensate. 160 hrs heatsoaking on the firewall in outside temperatures up to
105 degrees F, and guess what? It looks just like new.
Are you sure the rating was 120 degrees F?
The bowl is made of polycarbonate (same plastic sold as Lexan) and my
plastics data book rates the amorphous melting temperature at 150 degrees C
(302 degrees F). I think that there is adequate safety band as long as your
engine is not on fire. But then your cowling would melt too.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
<< I understand that Halon has been outlawed, too. Seems it comes from the
same family as freon. >>
This is untrue. These fire extinguishers are currently sold by Chief, ACS and
others. Halon does deplete Stratospheric ozone, however, since it is used to
fight fires, much of it breaks down in the flame. Therefore it is still
lawful to use.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Time to change the listed subject.
Halon is the same family as freon. It does not support life as it
displaces oxygen. As I understand it, Halon cannot be manufactured
any more for environmental reasons. It is still approved for use in
aviation as there is no substitute. It is non-conductive,
non-corrosive, effective on all types of fires, lowest toxicity to
humans, and has a shelf life of over 10 years. The new supply for
aviation is coming from recycling old halon systems used on the ground
in computer rooms.
I have a halon extinguisher in my RV and would not want anything else.
I know of nothing better at any price. Halon extinguishers are
expensive but I think my life is worth it. I do not know of any
better extinguisher agent available for use in aircraft. No license
is needed in the US but if it were, I would get one.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 aft fuse parts |
>I'm kinda confused (yeah, tis true) about the 819 plate, and misc
>angle
>pieces and spacers that attach to bulkheads 810, 811 and 812 serving
>to
>support this plate, the HS, and VS. The manual says to drill all these
>
>parts in place....then....what? Do they stay clecoed until fitting the
>
>HS and VS later on, or should they be riveted/bolted in place for good
>
>before moving on to the forward cabin area tasks?
-
Yes. As the manual mentions, the installation of the F-819 plate is what
initially makes the fuselage rigid and prevents it from twisting.
That is why this is the first work that you do after removing the
fuselage from the jig.
As mentioned in the manual, be sure their is no twist in the fuselage
when you drill and rivet on the F-819 because it will be locked in that
position for ever.
Also, does the
>manual
>trim cable come in the finish kit? I'm not seeing anything that
>
I believe so but I am not positive.
If you have an RV-8 order form, look and see if when ordering the finish
kit you specify which trim system you are using.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
>Put your double nuts on. Take a heavy hammer and give a couple taps
>on the
>nutted end like you are driving a nail. That should loosen it up so
>it will
>turn out easily. But it they aren't broke why worry. The heat will
>make them
>look just as bad after 50 hours of flight. Use anti-seize on the
>brass
>nuts, snug up until they don't leak and go work on something else more
>important.
>
I think brass nuts are usually just used on Continental engines.
At least using the exhaust systems from High Country Exh. we use
stainless steel nuts and washers.
I also have seen many studs badly corroded (some that you wouldn't dare
torqued a nut up tight on) as the original poster mentioned.
I have often resorted to a vise grips with good jaws and some heat on the
cylinder head around the stud area.
Then using a sharp jerking motion on the vice grips it will usually pop
it loose.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
When I was in the Coast Guard, we installed a large Halon system
in an electronics equipment room. We had to test it when it was
ready. Several guys in the 20x40 room when it went off. Some
were holding lit matches. It put out the matches, and we could
still breathe normally. Of course, that may be the reason I'm
brain damaged today?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
I stand corrected. I was told that I couldn't have a halon extinguisher for
my emergency vehicle at The Oshkosh Convention this because of the ban.
I guess if you are inside a plane you can have one for fire fighting, but if
you are on the outside of the plane, it is illegal to fight the same fire
with halon.
Your tax dollars at work for the environmentalists.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 12:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Halon
>
>Time to change the listed subject.
>
>Halon is the same family as freon. It does not support life as it
>displaces oxygen. As I understand it, Halon cannot be manufactured
>any more for environmental reasons. It is still approved for use in
>aviation as there is no substitute. It is non-conductive,
>non-corrosive, effective on all types of fires, lowest toxicity to
>humans, and has a shelf life of over 10 years. The new supply for
>aviation is coming from recycling old halon systems used on the ground
>in computer rooms.
>
>I have a halon extinguisher in my RV and would not want anything else.
> I know of nothing better at any price. Halon extinguishers are
>expensive but I think my life is worth it. I do not know of any
>better extinguisher agent available for use in aircraft. No license
>is needed in the US but if it were, I would get one.
>
>
>==
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
>Flying in So. CA, USA
>RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Remote oil cooler question |
'Listers with flying RV-4s,
I checked the archives but did not find a satisfactory answer. Is it
necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can I get
away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side engine mount
tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum. It sure would be easier
to find space for a 2" hole in the baffles and route (short) 2" tubing to
the plenum. From reading the archives, most people have trouble with low
oil temps rather than high, right? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 w/ O-360
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Must reading for all listers |
Listers,
It's about that time of year again. Those of you who have been on the list
for a while know that about twice a year we like to promote taking up a
VOLUNTARY collection for Matt, our fearless list leader. Now you might ask
yourself, "Why do we do that?" Well the answer is simple: Because Matt
provides all this service for us and only askes that we give what we think
it's worth. Okay, Okay, It really hasn't been worth all that much lately,
but that's all the more reason we should be contributing. If you wish to
exercise that first amendment right to hack at another lister then it is
only right that your name should appear at the top of the list of donors.
After all MOST of us pay our fair share to be here so lets get that credit
card or check book out and put your money where your mouth is! Secure
credit card donations may be made easily and conveniently at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or for those of you already maxed out to Vans on the CC you can send a
check or IOU to:
Matt G. Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, Ca 94551
(IOU's will be posted as such and the list will be made aware of payment
;-) )
Now that all the good reasons have been mentioned let me tell you some of
what your donations are paying for. Just this past weekend Matt finished
upgrading the web server machine to a new dual-processor, 400 Mhz Pentium
II system with 512 Mb of memory and the latest version of Linux. RV
archive searches are now taking only2-3 seconds!! (And that's a search of
over 54MB's of data! Non-indexed!!) And if that's not enough, this weekend
Matt plans to take the old web server system (a dual processor, 200 Mhz
Pentium Pro with 384 Mb of memory) and replace the lowly Sparc2 that is
currently running the mail server. This change should improve the
turnaround time on messages. (Provided your own PC date is set correctly!)
Matt would also like to upgrade his current internet connectivity to serve
US better!
Now I know Matt can't be too happy with what he has seen over the list over
the past few weeks so all you guys out there that have an opinion on just
about everything (and some on nothing) lets get those donations in. It's
really going to say a lot about you when we all see your name on that
contributor list that Matt will post in about a month. Yes you did set
yourself up for this, and yes you can easily get yourself out of it, (write
a check), otherwise I would expect that the list will get back to it's old
purpose of information and civil communication and hope it is generously
funded! You all have a nice weekend................AL
P.S. This message will be posted once per day through the weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | Contributions (was: Must reading for all listers) |
After two years on the list, I just made my first contribution to Matt. The
secure web page made it very easy to use my credit card. Painless and money
well spent. Without theRV-list, I'd still be trying to get the emp. kit
boxes open!
Thanks!
-Larry
RV-8 #80607, Rudder/R-410
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Al Mojzisik
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 1998 10:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Must reading for all listers
Listers,
It's about that time of year again. Those of you who have been on the list
for a while know that about twice a year we like to promote taking up a
VOLUNTARY collection for Matt, our fearless list leader. Now you might ask
yourself, "Why do we do that?" Well the answer is simple: Because Matt
provides all this service for us and only askes that we give what we think
it's worth. Okay, Okay, It really hasn't been worth all that much lately,
but that's all the more reason we should be contributing. If you wish to
exercise that first amendment right to hack at another lister then it is
only right that your name should appear at the top of the list of donors.
After all MOST of us pay our fair share to be here so lets get that credit
card or check book out and put your money where your mouth is! Secure
credit card donations may be made easily and conveniently at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or for those of you already maxed out to Vans on the CC you can send a
check or IOU to:
Matt G. Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, Ca 94551
(IOU's will be posted as such and the list will be made aware of payment
;-) )
Now that all the good reasons have been mentioned let me tell you some of
what your donations are paying for. Just this past weekend Matt finished
upgrading the web server machine to a new dual-processor, 400 Mhz Pentium
II system with 512 Mb of memory and the latest version of Linux. RV
archive searches are now taking only2-3 seconds!! (And that's a search of
over 54MB's of data! Non-indexed!!) And if that's not enough, this weekend
Matt plans to take the old web server system (a dual processor, 200 Mhz
Pentium Pro with 384 Mb of memory) and replace the lowly Sparc2 that is
currently running the mail server. This change should improve the
turnaround time on messages. (Provided your own PC date is set correctly!)
Matt would also like to upgrade his current internet connectivity to serve
US better!
Now I know Matt can't be too happy with what he has seen over the list over
the past few weeks so all you guys out there that have an opinion on just
about everything (and some on nothing) lets get those donations in. It's
really going to say a lot about you when we all see your name on that
contributor list that Matt will post in about a month. Yes you did set
yourself up for this, and yes you can easily get yourself out of it, (write
a check), otherwise I would expect that the list will get back to it's old
purpose of information and civil communication and hope it is generously
funded! You all have a nice weekend................AL
P.S. This message will be posted once per day through the weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
<< It put out the matches, and we could
still breathe normally. Of course, that may be the reason I'm
brain damaged today?
>>
Michael,
I had a friend in Texas who was building a Q-2 at the same time I was. He sat
in his airplane with canpopy closed and set off a Halon extinquisher to see
what it would do. It KILLED him, so I will never ever put one in a cockpit of
my airplane. He left a very young widow and several young children. Not good!
Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage almost ready to tackle canopy, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Runaway |
>All FAR 25 airplanes (and I think modern FAR 23, too) with electric trim
>have to have a double switch to activate (Cooley Hat or two switches); one
>to provide power, and the other to provide direction (up or down). Also,
>for those with A/Ps, a monitor has to be provided in the form of a moving
>trim wheel or "clacker" to say the trim is moving.
>
>Electric trim NOT on the wish list,
Too bad. Most homebuilts get into trim trouble by (1) having way too much
aero-dynamic authority in the trim tab system and/or (2) not taking time
and effort to insure that no single failure of trim control presents
a hazardous condition. None of these shortcomings are difficult to
fix.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
> Does someone have a chart, or know of a web address with the
>>chart for determining wire sizes based on length, current, etc?
>>
>>thanks..
>
There is an article you may download from
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/wiresize.pdf
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
On Sat, 24 Oct 1998 Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
> Well, not exactly toxic but it sure won't support life if you displace the
> air in the cockpit with CO2.
>
> >> CO2 is toxic even if the oxygen level is high enough to otherwise
> support life as it prevents the haemoglobin in your blood from absorbing
> oxygen if the concentration is above 6%, to smother a fire with CO2 you
> will go above 18%.
I believe you are thinking of Carbon Monoxide, not Carbon Dioxide. CO
bonds strongly with hemoglobin preventing it from tansporting O2. CO2 is
the natural product of respiration (what you breathe out). The danger is
that, if you have an atmosphere of most CO2 there just isn't enough O2
left in the air to support combustion OR respiration.
> Halon is a different problem in that while it does displace the air but
> since it extinguishes the fire by inerting the burning surface it can put
> out a fire in much lower concentrations the mixture should remain below the
> toxic threshold if used carefully (but I don't recommend trying it for a
> hobby).
I've not studied the mechanism that Halon uses to extinguish fires so I
can't comment here. I do know that, theoretically, it won't kill you if
you are in the room when the Halon system goes off but that there can be
sufficient quantities to simply displace all the normal air thus rendering
the atmosphere free of O2 for breathing.
Having gotten caught in a situation like that, i.e an inert gas displaced
all the normal atmosphere, I can attest to how fast the lights can go out
and how little you can do about it. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
On Sat, 24 Oct 1998 Kerrjb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I had a friend in Texas who was building a Q-2 at the same time I was. He sat
> in his airplane with canpopy closed and set off a Halon extinquisher to see
> what it would do. It KILLED him, so I will never ever put one in a cockpit of
> my airplane. He left a very young widow and several young children. Not good!
There seem to be some misconceptions on the list. Halon, like CO2, is not
toxic to people directly, but if you have enough of it around to push the
rest of the atmosphere out of the room you are in there is no oxygen left
and you become immediately hypoxic. The same thing would happen in a room
filled with pure nitrogen or argon or helium or other non-toxic inert gas.
(BTW, if you use argon or helium in your TIG welder in a closed room you
can do the same thing.)
So, while not directly toxic, i.e. not poisonous, you get enough of
anything in a room that isn't oxygen and the lights will go out. I
suspect your friend set off a Halon extinguisher in the cockpit, it
displaced all the normal atmosphere, and he immediately passed out. No
one was there to drag him out into the air so he died of anoxia, not Halon
poisoning.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
On Sat, 24 Oct 1998, Tom Craig-Stearman wrote:
>
> 'Listers with flying RV-4s,
> I checked the archives but did not find a satisfactory answer. Is it
> necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can I get
> away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side engine mount
> tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum. It sure would be easier
> to find space for a 2" hole in the baffles and route (short) 2" tubing to
> the plenum. From reading the archives, most people have trouble with low
> oil temps rather than high, right? Any thoughts?
My oil cooler is mounted to the inlet baffling just inside the left
cooling air inlet and ahead of the #2 cylinder. This eliminates all
ducting. It works just fine. I have never seen oil temps greater than
195 degree F even during extended climbs on very hot summer days.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ibelmore" <ian(at)ibelmore.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Which Landing Light ? |
I saw a picture of a landing light assembly which fitted in the fibreglass
wing tip that housed Landing light, Nav Light and Strobe. Can any one tell
me who makes it ?
Ian Belmore
RV-6
Fitting Ailerons and Flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Info |
Randall,
The following is the index for what you are looking for. Al
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/
>
>A couple of months ago there was a thread on the RPM limitations for
>Hartzell C/S props with O-360 engine. Someone posted the URL for a pdf
>version of the TC data sheet (FAA pub P920) that applies. I went and got
>that but now want to see if there's a data sheet for the HC-F2YL and
>HC-M2YR hubs, which aren't listed on the P920 data sheet. I can't get
>to the archives right now (server's down?) or track it down under the
>FAA database. Can the person who directed me to the pdf file for P920
>perhaps refresh my memory?
>
>Thanks
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
I guess when you are in the service, they don't know or don't
care about the affect something like that can have on you. It
was about 20 years ago. E-4's were cheap to replace. Makes me
think about all the a-bomb testing they did, with men close by to
watch and test the affects. I'm sorry about your friend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
If all else fails, try looking in the yellow pages under extractions.. My
company Alloy Cutting does this using a variety of methods, the one method
that works when all others fail is our camman E.D.M., it uses a molibdinum
prode with a water soluible coolant flush to electrically erode the stud away.
We get lots of parts in that have ezouts broken off as well. I thinkif the
stud breaks from twisting only ( no side load) that the ez out will break off
as well, we can still remove all of this, but it does take longer.
ALloy Cutting
2661 spring street
Redwood City California 94063
650 363 1601
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
----------
> From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Remote oil cooler question
> Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 8:40 AM
>
>
> 'Listers with flying RV-4s,
> I checked the archives but did not find a satisfactory answer. Is it
> necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can I
get
> away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side engine
mount
> tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum. It sure would be
easier
> to find space for a 2" hole in the baffles and route (short) 2" tubing to
> the plenum. From reading the archives, most people have trouble with low
> oil temps rather than high, right? Any thoughts?
Tom,
My oil cooler is mounted on the upper left firewall. I have TWO 3" scat
tubes delivering from holes in the rear baffeling. Works fine in the
sweltering south Texas heat.
Problem is, with oil filter, separator, vacuum pump and mags; the
compartment is really crowded. (I'm reminded of the poem about the
crowded "old lady in the shoe".) It is a pain (I endure it though) to
change the filter every 25 hours.
Brian Lloyd's suggestion sure seems like a good alternative.
Why don't you test your idea? Fly around the field and watch the temp.
If it doesn't work, then try Brians mounting. You can come back to the
scat tubing later.
Good Luck
Deal Fair
George West, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | displacement of O2 |
Guys, I made a joke about the "top five ways to escape" the
other day. I mentioned a "pony bottle". Seriously, I think
that might not be a bad idea. It might not be a bad idea to
have an emergency supply of air in the cockpit with you.
The scuba air is compressed air, not compressed O2, so you
wouldn't have the same considerations of enhancing fire than
you would with O2. The problem is that the regulators build
into these are set to deliver air at the same rate as the
ambient pressure. Under water, the pressure is higher, not
lower than the pressure under water, so I'm not sure of the
effect. I can breath off my regular scuba gear with no
problem sitting in my room, so I don't know. Maybe you
could borrow a pony bottle and take it up to altitude and
test it. Anyway, it might not be a bad idea to get some
emergency supply, whether it's an O2 bottle/mask or whatever
that has compressed air. There could also be times when the
cockpit fills with smoke, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Landing Light ? |
ibelmore wrote:
>
>
> I saw a picture of a landing light assembly which fitted in the fibreglass
> wing tip that housed Landing light, Nav Light and Strobe. Can any one tell
> me who makes it ?
>
> Ian Belmore
> RV-6
> Fitting Ailerons and Flaps
>
>
Most likely they are the ones made by
RMD Aircraft Lighting INC.
3648 Roanoak CT.
Hillsboro, OR
(503) 628 6056
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
halon is great stuff, and it is still legal and readilly available for
"essential" applications, aviation being one. I recently had 2 small bottles
recharged by a local fire apparatus service, and the going rate for halon
right now is about $23 a pound.
I designed a simple engine fire extinguishing system that floods the engine
compartment with 2lbs of halon, right now! This is the same type system used
in factory installed piston and turbine engine applications. I hope I never
have to use it, but it,s cheap insurance, whether in flight or on the ground.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6
N747W
Sherman, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
>could borrow a pony bottle and take it up to altitude and
>test it. Anyway, it might not be a bad idea to get some
>emergency supply, whether it's an O2 bottle/mask or whatever
>that has compressed air. There could also be times when the
>cockpit fills with smoke, etc.
I'd have to advise that you be very careful taking any compressed air
cylinder aloft, unless the cylinder was made for aircraft use. When outside
pressure drops, the compressed air in the cylinder will put even more
pressure on the walls of the cylinder. Scuba cylinders have a burst valve
of some type, but I've been told that it gets pretty exciting when that lets
go. If this happened in a closed cockpit, it would at the very least, scare
years off you life.
Rusty
RV-8 (tanks)
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Nichols <russ.nichols(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Priming steel parts w/ bushings |
Sorry to even mention the priming topic yet again, but I have a quick
question or two....
As I prime my steel parts, I clean them with MetalPrep, rinse with water,
then paint with Akzo (Dexter Aerospace) 2-part epoxy. The process works
great! However, I've come to a couple pieces I'm not sure how to handle...
The control sticks and tailwheel mount have bushings pressed into them. On
one of the control sticks, I was able to get the bushing out without much
trouble. On the other and on the tailwheel bracket, the fit is tight enough
I'm afraid I'll damage the bushing if I attempt to remove it. How has
everyone else primed the inside of the steel tubes into which the bushing
fits? The one I removed appears to be coated with some sort of oil. Is
that enough protection that I don't need to remove the bushing at all?
One last priming question... The steel flap actuator (WD-613) is built from
steel tube, but the ends of the tube are capped where it attaches to the
flaps. Do you prime the inside of that tube some how? The attachment
points do have small (about 1/16") holes, but that's not nearly enough to
get through with cleaner and primer. Any suggestions?
Thanks again!
Russ Nichols
russ.nichols(at)cwix.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Green" <dgreen(at)sincom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
I'm a newbie to the RV List. One of the first suggestions I have to your frozen
studs is to let them soak with a penetrant. One of the ones I am familiar with
is
"Kroil." It's about like mixing Marvel Mystery Oil and Diesel fuel, loose
discription. If all else fails seek a good machine shop to drill out the old
studs. Remember the studs are going to be real hard from all the heating and
cooling they have endured.
Good Luck,
Dale Green
Keith Williams wrote:
>
> Listers - I'm coming to the point on my project I'm gonna get to fly this
> thing in the not too distant future - at least its down to months to go and
> not years. That's good, but its making me clean up the nasty problems I've
> known were around but put off in order to do things that were fun. Thus
> the subject of this note.
>
> My 0360 A1A started life in 1959 in a Comanche 180. Some of the exhaust
> studs look to me like they may be originals - rusty and maybe even eroded
> (I don't see any sign of erosion of the aluminum in the exhaust port area).
> I don't want to fly with them. What I want to do is remove the studs and
> replace with new ones - standard or oversize, as needed.
>
> Just for old time's sake (those good old days with dirty hands, old cars,
> brute force, etc., etc.), I tried "double nutting" one and giving it a good
> twist. No go. (Also, no damage - ulike the usual case in those good old
> days.)
>
> Getting out of that mode, I have checked the Lycoming overhaul manual.
> They say to use a collet - type tool. One of our EAA Chapter Tech
> Counselors has a tool that sounds like that, so that's available.
>
> I have also checked the RV list archives and found a suggestion on heating
> the cylinder and a good instruction on helicoils (hope I don't have to use
> that one). But what sounded like the best advice was a comment to "find
> out how to do it, and do it right the first time".
>
> So, in that spirit, and after months of "lurking" on the list, I'm asking
> for suggestions, tips, etc. on this. I would like to know as much as I can
> before exerting serious pressure on those eight little guys.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Keith Williams - RV6 - Moline Illinois
> 73623.2504(at)compuserve.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
Ron Vandervort and Greg Boose. Pleeze respond with your E- Mail addresses
I lost my address book.
Thanks Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
I told my flight school that I would post this to the list to see if there
is any interest.
Lycoming IO360-? (perhaps an A1A). 1.5 hours after third rebuild. Taken
out of a Lance (I think). The engine swallowed a valve on a checkout
flight. w/o mags, fuel control, governor, accessories. That's all I know,
no warranties expressed or implied. Please contact Chandler Air Service if
interested or w/ ???. Address is fly+AEA-aerobatics.com . Asking +ACQ-8,500.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov., Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Test, Please Ignore... |
This is a test; please ignore.
Matt
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
<< I'd have to advise that you be very careful taking any compressed air
cylinder aloft, unless the cylinder was made for aircraft use. When outside
pressure drops, the compressed air in the cylinder will put even more
pressure on the walls of the cylinder. Scuba cylinders have a burst valve
of some type, but I've been told that it gets pretty exciting when that lets
go. If this happened in a closed cockpit, it would at the very least, scare
years off you life. >>
Taking a SCUBA cylinder aloft is not really a problem in my view. They are
designed to take much more pressure than they're rated for. During periodic
hydrostatic testing, they are routinely over pressured. Aluminum 80 cu ft
tanks are rated at 3000 PSIg at atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI). Even if you
took it into space, the pressure delta would be insignificant (<0.5%). The
overpressure valve (ball and spring in seat) would just slowly vent the 15 PSI
in climb. No big deal IMO.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Well, Ive' looked at the plans and looked in the archive and I can't see
what bolt/nut combination goes on the end of the push rod that attaches to
the control sticks. Page 40 shows a detail "A" but no bolt call out. The
bearing is a HEIM F3514M 3/16 bore. It looks like a AN 3-7A with a AN
365-1032 and AN 960-10 will work.
Thanks
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Wiebe" <awiebe(at)cadvision.com> |
Dear Mr. Self,
I am still in the dreaming stage of building an RV. I'm buying tools and
reading every bit of literature I can find on the subject.
The RV series are great aircraft but the thing that attracts me to them more
than anything is the community that dream, build, and fly the aircraft.
Every RV owner/builder that I have talked to expresses his/her time with the
aircraft in different ways. I guess that is what makes our society great ...
we can express our true feelings at will.
Having monitored the RV List for over a year now, I have perceived it as a
place for RV enthusiasts to communicate there experiences whether technical
or emotional.
To the writer of the poem ... as far as I am concerned you can write all the
wonderful poems you want. The one I read truly exemplifies what I perceive
to be a common feeling that RV owners towards their aircraft. They are not
just aircraft ... they are extensions of the builder.
Mr. Self ... if you want to use the list for technical information, it is
your choice. If you don't like the poems then perhaps you should look to an
alternate source for you RV related information ... after all, it is a free
world in which we live.
Best Regards To All,
Anthony Wiebe
Calgary, Alberta
From: Anthony K. Self <chevy_truck(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Friends
>
>>RV and I are friends now. I suppose we always were, but we are more
>>comfortable together now. We have each other, we seek the same pleasures
>>together, all for one, one for all....together.
>>On the runway, out for a romp, feed in throttle and she responds and we
are
>>propelled faster and faster, until without chirp nor tug this way nor
that,
>>we lift gently and softly as if borne up by a giant hand, as you would
lift
>
>
>There has been way too much junk and clutter on this list lately. THIS is a
>prime example. What is this crap? What does it have to do with building an
>RV? Please keep your rambling thoughts to yourself, unless it has something
>to do with the building process.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | 0-360-A1A.....AD 97-15-11? |
Can any one shed some light on the context of AD 97-15-11. I have
searched the internet for a source to no avail; re. Landings, faa.com,
AOPA,etc.
Thank you,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, FAA inspection Friday, Oct 30th
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Grant <barcode(at)prysm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 10/23/98 |
Hi folks!
Another lurker here!
My wife and I are getting real close to spending the big bucks on a -6a
QB kit. I'd love to look at any 6's in my travel route this week.
I'm traveling from Cincinnati to Ft. Atkinson (Janesville/Madison), WI
then back to Minden, LA this week.
Next week puts me in Atlanta (don't know what days) and Milwaukee on
11/7 for a wedding.
See why I NEED an RV??
Please respond off list to: rfgen(at)netscape.net
Thanks in advance!
Tom Grant
Louisiana CodeWORKS, Inc.
104 Marshall St.
Minden, LA 71055
318.377.1149 / 800.489.1149
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
Back in the old days, a successful meathod of removing studs and nuts that
were frozen from corrosion was to heat them and the area they threaded into
red hot and then immediatly quenching them with a stream of water. On nuts,
many times they would almost turn off by hand after this treatment. As for
this working on steel into aluminum, one must be careful as the aluminum will
not show the heat and can suddenly change shape, ie: melt and flow. If the
studs are just rusty, without significant loss of metal, I would use a thread
chaser or die and clean them up and leave in place. Re easy outs: if the stud
breaks off because of being frozen in place, the easy out will not remove it
either. By design they are smaller diameter and at best no stronger. Proceed
with caution.
Gary Bray
RV-6 N827GB "Joe's Spirit"
chasing those pesky last minute details before inspection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Halon and fire extinguishers |
Folks:
Continuing my personal policy of only commenting on what I know...this
is long and would not apply to RVs except for incomplete and misleading
information which was published on the thread.
This is to provide some good information on the above topic. In
my former life on active duty in the Navy, I was deputy director of the
Navy's shipboard environmental engineering office. One of the projects
there was/is replacement of ozone depleting substances (halon, for
example), including stockpiling critical substances, developing
alternatives and alternative systems, etc. The following is from memory,
however, and the phase-out dates may have been mis-remembered or changed
in the last 3 1/2 years.
Several chlorinated compounds which share the following characteristics
are either now banned from production or are on a schedule to ban them
from production. Many have exorbidant taxes as a penalty for continued
production (auto air conditioner freon) All these compounds contribute
to ozone depletion in the upper atmosphere, are very stable molecules,
none burn, some have widespread application in systems which are
important to health and safety, and are, herefore, not regulated as to
continued USE on most applications.(Refrigerator freon, fire system
halon are two examples.) There are banned uses, such as aerosol
propellants, which are fully in effect and have been for some time.
(Butane and other flammibles now drive aerosol cans). Production and use
is dictated by international treaty, the Montreal Protocol.
Halon. This is the generic name for a family of compounds. All stop fire
by interfering with the oxidation process. The molecules of the
is one of the reasons it banned from production. They are effective at
very low concentrations and stop fire in concentrations which can allow
people to breathe and not be asphyxiated or otherwise harmed.
All in comercial/military use were tested for toxicity and the ones
which made into fire suppression systems passed both critical (high
exposure doses) and chronic (long exposure to low doses) toxicity tests.
Some uses have not viable alternatives, such as combat aircraft inerting
of fuel cells, engine fire suppression on aircraft, and there was a move
afoot (do not know the outcome) to allow production of chemicals to fill
these needs past the production cut-off deadline of 2000.
Cautions: If you displace your breathing atmosphere with high enough
concentrations which exclude enough oxygen, life will end. Contact with
hot surfaces (1200 deg F, if memory serves) will cause Halons to break
down into toxic phosgene gases. Production rate tests in real fires
found this hazard is very low and this is a "acceptable hazard" for most
fire systems. The fact of this hazard lead manufacturers
of systems to caution against breathing directly, and for use of
breathing systems in halon-fought fires (usually confined spaces). [who
breathes engine compartment air? If cockpit surfaces are that hot, a
little
toxic gas is the least of your problems]
CO2 (carbon dioxide) fire extinguishers are commercially common, and
are effective for knocking down fuel and electrical fires. If you
breathe CO2 in relatively low concentration (insufficient to control
fire),
your breathing reflex is killed, and you will not breathe unless you
think
about it. At slighty higher concentrations, I believe you pass out
almost instantly. Not a popular pastime.
Dry chemical extinguishers are usually driven by CO2 and are effective
against electrical fires, fires involving materials like cloth and paper
and to a lesser extent fuel fires. They are less toxic thaan CO2
but leave a caustic residue. They ruin electronics.
My plan: I own several halon extinguishers and am holding my stock
against the day they are banned from production. Halon is the best
for auto and aircraft protection.
Ken Smith, RV 6 empanage idle in shop in Plainfield IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Priming steel parts w/ bushings |
Russ,
If you are really concerned about corrosion inside tube structures
you can use the linseede oil process. Thru small holes you pour in hot
linceede oil, drain it out and plug holes with sealed poprivets.
I do not know anyone who has done this. As for parts with bushings
in them, bushings are either ment to rotate in the hole or be a press
fit. In either case primer is not desired. If you prime inside a hole
and then press in a bushing you will peal the primer out anyway.
RV4 Stewart Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | broken flap rod-I saw it! |
Listers:
You can put me in the 'Now I've seen everything' catagory. At a fly-in
yesterday, I saw an RV-6 with a broken flap actuator rod. I recall this being
a thread of considerable length a while back, so I think this report might
apply. Personally, I never thought it possible to break this part...
The rod was broken at the end of the threads of the top rod end, that is the
rod end which attaches to the flap actuator assy inside the fuse. I know this
a/c has previous damage history, and it is possible that this parts could have
been damaged in the accident (very hard landing: bent gear legs, etc)
Without mentioning any names, I will try to chase this down a bit. Film at 11!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rae1(at)planeteer.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Overhaul Video |
A while back there was a discussion about engine overhaul videos. I
remembered that George said he would be going ahead with one for an
engine for the 8 project.
I searched the archives and found that it was back in April 97. Yikes!
So, what is the update George? I know that you are just now releasing
the canopy video. Can you give us any dates?
Thanks
RE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Push Rod Bolts |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> The
> bearing is a HEIM F3514M 3/16 bore. It looks like a AN 3-7A with a AN
> 365-1032 and AN 960-10 will work.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ross Mickey
Ross, It would help to know which RV you are building. If it is
an RV-4, there were stud inserts that riveted in the end of the pushrod
in my kit, they can also be welded in if you prefer.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX, RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Must reading for all listers |
Listers,
It's about that time of year again. Those of you who have been on the list
for a while know that about twice a year we like to promote taking up a
VOLUNTARY collection for Matt, our fearless list leader. Now you might ask
yourself, "Why do we do that?" Well the answer is simple: Because Matt
provides all this service for us and only askes that we give what we think
it's worth. Okay, Okay, It really hasn't been worth all that much lately,
but that's all the more reason we should be contributing. If you wish to
exercise that first amendment right to hack at another lister then it is
only right that your name should appear at the top of the list of donors.
After all MOST of us pay our fair share to be here so lets get that credit
card or check book out and put your money where your mouth is! Secure
credit card donations may be made easily and conveniently at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or for those of you already maxed out to Vans on the CC you can send a
check or IOU to:
Matt G. Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, Ca 94551
(IOU's will be posted as such and the list will be made aware of payment
;-) )
Now that all the good reasons have been mentioned let me tell you some of
what your donations are paying for. Just this past weekend Matt finished
upgrading the web server machine to a new dual-processor, 400 Mhz Pentium
II system with 512 Mb of memory and the latest version of Linux. RV
archive searches are now taking only2-3 seconds!! (And that's a search of
over 54MB's of data! Non-indexed!!) And if that's not enough, this weekend
Matt plans to take the old web server system (a dual processor, 200 Mhz
Pentium Pro with 384 Mb of memory) and replace the lowly Sparc2 that is
currently running the mail server. This change should improve the
turnaround time on messages. (Provided your own PC date is set correctly!)
Matt would also like to upgrade his current internet connectivity to serve
US better!
Now I know Matt can't be too happy with what he has seen over the list over
the past few weeks so all you guys out there that have an opinion on just
about everything (and some on nothing) lets get those donations in. It's
really going to say a lot about you when we all see your name on that
contributor list that Matt will post in about a month. Yes you did set
yourself up for this, and yes you can easily get yourself out of it, (write
a check), otherwise I would expect that the list will get back to it's old
purpose of information and civil communication and hope it is generously
funded! You all have a nice weekend................AL
P.S. This message will be posted once per day through the weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Halon and fire extinguishers |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
Ken has wrote a very good piece about fire protection we can all use in
the planing of our RV's safety.
For the past 15 tears I have been licensed by the California State Fire
Marshel to service Protable Fire Extinguishers. So know some of what I
speak.
The only part the I see mis-spoke by Ken, is about what drives dry
chemical extinguishers. All Dry Chemical Extinguishers I have delt with
have Dry Nitrogen as the expelling agent. And, like Ken, I have saved
some Halon 1211 for my RV6A. I have sources that sell recovered Halon
1211, but it is expensive. (H3R, Inc. in San Francisco, www.h3r.Com/h3r,
for instance) Not only does the government get their huge slice in tax,
those going to the trouble to buy the expensive equipment, and do all the
paperwork that the state demands, put on their hefty markup as well.
Buckeye Fire Equip Co. has come up with an alternative called Halotron I.
Its not as good as Halon 1211 however.
All countries have banned the manufacturing of Halon.
Hope this helps
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
>Dry chemical extinguishers are usually driven by CO2 and are effective
>against electrical fires, fires involving materials like cloth and
>paper
>
>
>Ken Smith, RV 6 empanage idle in shop in Plainfield IL.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
>
>A while back there was a discussion about engine overhaul videos. I
>remembered that George said he would be going ahead with one for an
>engine for the 8 project.
During the last Sun-N-Fun I visited the the engine overhaul demonstration
that was put on by a couple of Mattituck employees. These guys, of course,
were very knowledgeable and made the whole process look amazingly simple.
The demonstration was with a Lycoming 0-320-E3D and with the members of the
audience turning the wrenches, it only took about an hour to tear down the
engine. I did not have time for the reassembly so I won't comment about
that.
Anyway, there is a video available for $34.95 that is produced by
gentlemen doing the demo. I don't think the video is affiliated with
Mattituck though. Call 888-490-9745. I believe his name is Philip Haponic.
Jerry Isler
RV4 #1070
Donalsonville, Ga
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which Landing Light ? |
We used a wingtip light available from RMD Aircraft Lighting, Inc and are
very pleased with it. We have the landing light, strobe and nav markers all
enclosed in the wingtip fixture adding no drag from having things sticking
out. Also, the plane is very visible at night. Call Bob DeBorde at
503-648-0331 or 503-628-6056.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
Now that we have finished the RV8 kit videos and will have some time until
we
receive the 8A quickbuild to do a video for that, perhaps we can get the
engine rebuilt and finish up that tape. We're sorry for the long delay and
we'll try to get the engine rebuild video out in the next few months.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
how true
VALUE JET , MIAMI EVERGLADES, 1996 OXYGEN CANISTERS !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
According to page A25 October issue of the "Pacific Flyer", Aircraft
Spurce and Specialty has this video for $24.95 1 (800) 824-1930. The
photo in the Business Brief shows the tape: Skyward Tech, Inc.
Aircraft Engine Rebuilding Video Series. Mattituck.
>
> >
> >A while back there was a discussion about engine overhaul videos. I
> >remembered that George said he would be going ahead with one for an
> >engine for the 8 project.
>
> During the last Sun-N-Fun I visited the the engine overhaul
demonstration
> Anyway, there is a video available for $34.95 that is produced by
> gentlemen doing the demo. I don't think the video is affiliated with
> Mattituck though. Call 888-490-9745. I believe his name is Philip
Haponic.
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 #1070
> Donalsonville, Ga
Hope this helps.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
Assuming that it was a 1.6kg cylinder, the vapor would expand to
around 1m2. In a Q2 that is about the same volume as the cockpit,
therefore it would displace all the air in the cockpit. No air, no
pilot, a good way to commit suicide. While Halon is not particularly
toxic, that volume of any gas (but oxygen) released in a confined
space WILL kill you. Please use any extinguisher in a well ventilated
space and use just enough to knockdown the fire or ventilate the space
as soon as possible after use (ie open the vents, jettison the canopy
or if on the ground,(assuming you want to salvage the plane), clear
the plane. If that is not possible go on 100% oxygen IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!
Note: a CO2 or dry chemical system will have the same effect.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover)
Date: 24-10-98 11:03
<< It put out the matches, and we could
still breathe normally. Of course, that may be the reason I'm
brain damaged today?
>>
Michael,
I had a friend in Texas who was building a Q-2 at the same time I was. He sat
in his airplane with canpopy closed and set off a Halon extinquisher to see
what it would do. It KILLED him, so I will never ever put one in a cockpit of
my airplane. He left a very young widow and several young children. Not good!
Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage almost ready to tackle canopy, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Regarding a single cylinder EGT; I have heard and read several locations
as best; It looks like 1 1/2" down from the exhaust flange on cyl #3 is
the most popular. Is this correct?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Since I am using an electronic engine monitor (AV-8), I don't need the
hookup on the engine for the mechanical tach. What size and type of cap
do I need to order to cap this opening off? Lyc. 0-360-A1A.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flywheel & Alt Pulley |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
My 0-360-A1A Flywheel and Alternator pulleys are about 3/16" out of
alignment. Is this a problem? It seems to me like this would result in
excess wear on the belt. How would I adjust this? I dont see any
adjustment fore and aft on the alternator. The only thing I can figure is
to take the pulley off of the alternator and put a couple of thick
washers behind the pulley to bring it out. Any ideas?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pressure testing hoses |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am considering buying my oil hoses from Vans. These are the type you
make yourself. I would like to have these pressure tested along with the
oil cooler (Setrab). Where would I go to get these tested, and how high
of a pressure should I have them tested? Or is there a facility where I
can order pre-assembled custom length hoses that are pretested? Are these
alot more expensive this way? Is this the way to go? Any recommendations
here?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
>Is it necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can
I >get away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side
engine >mount tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum.
My oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine mount with an
aluminum box attached to it with a controlable air gate to regulate the air
exiting the cooler. If the OAT is below 70F, I have a plate I HAVE to
install on the TWO inch duct flange (from the left baffle) to keep the oil
temperature above 160F. This plate blocks about 90% of the cooling airflow.
With it full open, the temp never gets above 180-190. With cooler weather, I
now have the blocking plate back on and the oil temp stays around 170-180.
On the occasional fall days it is OAT > 70F, I use the air-regulator gate to
keep the oil temp in the normal range. I have a two inch piece of scat from
the baffle to the oil cooler air box. If I was to redo any of the system, I
would regulate the air TO the cooler, rather than the air exiting the
cooler. The system I have, however, works very well.
Synopsis: Two inch scat is fine as long as the cooler works well and the air
to it is cool enough.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Conditional inspection in one month!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
Jerry Isler wrote:
>
>
> >
> >A while back there was a discussion about engine overhaul videos. I
> >remembered that George said he would be going ahead with one for an
> >engine for the 8 project.
>
> During the last Sun-N-Fun I visited the the engine overhaul demonstration
> that was put on by a couple of Mattituck employees. These guys, of course,
> were very knowledgeable and made the whole process look amazingly simple.
> The demonstration was with a Lycoming 0-320-E3D and with the members of the
> audience turning the wrenches, it only took about an hour to tear down the
> engine. I did not have time for the reassembly so I won't comment about
> that.
> Anyway, there is a video available for $34.95 that is produced by
> gentlemen doing the demo. I don't think the video is affiliated with
> Mattituck though. Call 888-490-9745. I believe his name is Philip Haponic.
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 #1070
> Donalsonville, Ga
>
>
ACS has this video available for $24.95 according to ads in the latest
magazines.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
> I had a friend in Texas who was building a Q-2 at the same time I was. He sat
> in his airplane with canpopy closed and set off a Halon extinquisher to see
> what it would do. It KILLED him, so I will never ever put one in a cockpit of
> my airplane. He left a very young widow and several young children. Not good!
Why would he intentionally do that?
Why did he die? The Q2 has a small cabin - perhaps the expanding halon
displaced all of the air. Why didn't he just open the canopy? Asphyxiation
doesn't happen immediately. Is halon toxic by itself?
In lots of computer rooms, there are signs that say a halon fire extinguishing
system has been installed, and to exit the area if the alarm goes off. Good
advice, if there is a fire in a closed room.. :-)
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Remote Oil Cooler Question |
Hi Guys,
I lied to Tom Craig-Stearman yesterday about The 3" scat tubing. I have
two 2" scat tubes going to my oil cooler. Sorry Tom!
Met with all the local -4 drivers this morning and discussed the oil cooler
situation. I'm going to redo my system when I have to replace a mag (going
to "lightspeed"). The area behind my baffeling looks like a zoo with all
the gizmos stashed back
there. My oil cooler was installed before I installed a vacuum system.
One -4 driver has his mounted in same place as mine - upper left firewall
with one 2" scat tubing. He has no cooling problems to speak of. (Note:
We're located in deep south Texas where we consistently register 105
degrees F. in the shade @ 7:00 P.M.)
Another -4 driver (for 4 years he has been just 2 hangers down from me and
a system I really like. Van's USED to sell what was a x-mission oil cooler
that is approximately 3" wide and about 18 to 20" long. It sits on top of
the crankcase, between the cylinders, butted up to the rear baffeling. He
has a forward facing "lourved" alum shroud pop-rivited to the cooler. The
inlet air is scooped up and exits out a rectangular hole in the baffeling
just behind the cooler. The mount is slightly elevated at the rear with
the nose down sitting right on the crankcase. The plumbing is through holes
in the rear baffle. No scat tubing at all. This guy only flys in the
dead-heat middle of the day. (I only do morning or late evening flights
because I can't take the heat!) He does not have a vacuum system so I am
not sure if that might interfere with the plumbing.
just need to look closer again?????
Just read Michael's (of Suzie -Q fame) post and that sure is an interesting
concept.
I'm trying to visualize these mountings on ole "Sweetie". Also thinking
about Brian Lloyd's mount.
Tom, please keep us posted as to how you fare with your system.
Anyway, thanks to all you guys for the ideas. I'm going to change mine at
some point.
Regards,
Deal Fair
George West, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Remote Oil Cooler Question |
Apologies,
The scoop was "louvered". I don't know how I spelled it in my last post.
"LOUVERED"
Ya got it?? "Louvered"
I gotta give up this Sunday morning drinking!
Deal Fair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
<< So, while not directly toxic, i.e. not poisonous, you get enough of
anything in a room that isn't oxygen and the lights will go out. I
suspect your friend set off a Halon extinguisher in the cockpit, it
displaced all the normal atmosphere, and he immediately passed out. No
one was there to drag him out into the air so he died of anoxia, not Halon
poisoning.
>>
Thanks for the education on Halon, it seems there is not a real good solution
to having a fire aloft, so maybe we should concentrate on the things that
prevent them from happening.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Art Robert" <edgewood(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure testing hoses |
I would recommend going to a hydraulic shop for pressure testing. In most cases
pressure hoses are already rated for twice the working pressure. After all if
a hose
is to be used for any hydraulic application it would have an engineering standard
prior to manufacturing. This is means the shop floor knows what materials to us.
art robert
edgewoodrt66.com
cleaning the hanger (garage)
>
>
> I am considering buying my oil hoses from Vans. These are the type you
> make yourself. I would like to have these pressure tested along with the
> oil cooler (Setrab). Where would I go to get these tested, and how high
> of a pressure should I have them tested? Or is there a facility where I
> can order pre-assembled custom length hoses that are pretested? Are these
> alot more expensive this way? Is this the way to go? Any recommendations
> here?
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Plug |
In a message dated 10/25/98 11:55:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< Since I am using an electronic engine monitor (AV-8), I don't need the
hookup on the engine for the mechanical tach. What size and type of cap
do I need to order to cap this opening off? Lyc. 0-360-A1A.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA >>
Von,
Avery sells a cap just to fit your needs.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Richards" <samav8(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rv lsit: AILerons |
Usually most of us would prefer to be on the advice giving end of the
list, which means everything is going well. I'm on the other end of the
line at the moment and would appreciate some input at a particularly low
point. I have just unclecoed the skin on the left aileron after drilling
the holes along the bottom of the spar. After
feeling quite good about how everything had been going I find a nice #30
perforated track running evenly from the center of the spar out to
the edge in the middle and back in to the center at the other end.
When I say edge, I mean as-in over the.. (reminding me it's a good thing
I'm a flat-lander). The top side holes are straight, but it seems the
stiffeners interfered with the spar and pushed it out of
alignment on the bottom. I now see that the called out 9-15/16" Spar to
trailing edge distance was about 9-27/32" and must have shifted the
location of the stiffeners on the bottom in relation to the spar.
Now in checking out the other aileron (which hasn't been drilled),when
the pp skin is clamped correctly in place on the ribs and spar there is
a 3/32"+ gap between the counterweight and the skin. I have the 9-15/16"
spec ok.
Q 1: Is the left assy a loss? If not, please suggest a fix.
Q 2: What about alignment priorities in the other aileron.
Thanks, Folks. Sam (temporarily off the rails) Richards
RV-6 Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Wing wiring connector? |
Listers,
As I close up the bottom skins on my -8 wings I plan on putting my wiring in
place first. I have strobe power supplies, Duckworks lights, and a heated
pitot on one side. Question: have you put a molex or other multi-conducter
plug at the inboard end of the wing, or have you left adequate wire to make
a straight run to the switches/breakers? I can see advantages to each
method.
Advice appreciated,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #50800, N558RL reserved
finishing wings, starting fuse
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Landing Light ? |
I would assume with that set up that you have a white light located in the
rudder. Do you have any info on mounting a rear light?
Vince
Preparing shop for RV-8A
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which Landing Light ?
>
> We used a wingtip light available from RMD Aircraft Lighting, Inc and are
>very pleased with it. We have the landing light, strobe and nav markers
all
>enclosed in the wingtip fixture adding no drag from having things sticking
>out. Also, the plane is very visible at night. Call Bob DeBorde at
>503-648-0331 or 503-628-6056.
>
>Becki Orndorff
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Landing Light ? |
Vince, Vans sells a light that goes in the lower rudder fairing. You order
the lit or unlit fairing w/ the empennage kit. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage
complete, QB due in Nov., Chandler, AZ
From: V. E. Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which Landing Light ?
>
>I would assume with that set up that you have a white light located in the
>rudder. Do you have any info on mounting a rear light?
>
>Vince
>Preparing shop for RV-8A
>From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 11:11 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Which Landing Light ?
>
>
>>
>> We used a wingtip light available from RMD Aircraft Lighting, Inc and are
>>very pleased with it. We have the landing light, strobe and nav markers
>all
>>enclosed in the wingtip fixture adding no drag from having things sticking
>>out. Also, the plane is very visible at night. Call Bob DeBorde at
>>503-648-0331 or 503-628-6056.
>>
>>Becki Orndorff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJKKS502(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Plug |
7/8x18 is the size and thread on the tach drive.
Don Simmons RV-4 N144DN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flywheel & Alt Pulley |
Mine was off by about 1/8" if I remember correctly. The alternator was too
far forward in relation to the flywheel. I ended up grinding the necessary
amount off of the face of the mounting ear on the alternator and then
polishing it real well. Worked great.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
>Listers;
>My 0-360-A1A Flywheel and Alternator pulleys are about 3/16" out of
>alignment. Is this a problem? It seems to me like this would result in
>excess wear on the belt. How would I adjust this? I dont see any
>adjustment fore and aft on the alternator. The only thing I can figure is
>to take the pulley off of the alternator and put a couple of thick
>washers behind the pulley to bring it out. Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure testing hoses |
I would recommend trying to find a local supplier for the hoses and
fittings. Look under hydraulic and hose in the yellow pages. There was an
Aeroquip distributor in my area that carried the aircraft hose as well as
industrial hose that has the same or better specs for a lot less money.
I found that it was impossible to figure out everything that I needed for
the hoses in one shot. I ended up going back a half-dozen times for
different angle fittings, more hose, etc.
After you finish, you should be able to find a hydraulic place locally that
can test them. I had all my oil and fuel hoses tested to 2000lbs at a cost
of around $8.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
>I am considering buying my oil hoses from Vans. These are the type you
>make yourself. I would like to have these pressure tested along with the
>oil cooler (Setrab). Where would I go to get these tested, and how high
>of a pressure should I have them tested? Or is there a facility where I
>can order pre-assembled custom length hoses that are pretested? Are these
>alot more expensive this way? Is this the way to go? Any recommendations
>here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV. Would like to avoid
having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
Thanks
Tim Houle
Rudder under construction
Three Hills, Alta.
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Auto parts store
From: Tim Houle <eprth(at)kneehill.com>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: rtv
>
>Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV. Would like to
avoid
>having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
>
>Thanks
>
>Tim Houle
>Rudder under construction
>Three Hills, Alta.
>***************************
>
>Tim Houle
>
>email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
>
>***************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
Listers,
I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
Inquiringly,
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, N558RL reserved
finishing wings, starting fuse
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder Stiffeners |
While measuring for rudder stiffeners, I noted that if using the 3/16ths
distance from the skin trailing edge, there is part of the stiffener that is
way too close to the radius of the skin.(only on the right hand side of the
skin, due to the angle of the skin)
In order to allow some separation, I was comtemplating placing a 15degree
angle at this location, just like on the other side of the stiffener, except
on the portion that lays on the skin. Can anyone see any reason that this
should not be done? On the other side of the skin, this problem will not
exist, because the stiffener is facing the other direction, and the separation
is fine.
I could not find any place on any of the drawings, or any reference in the
plans regarding this problem, so thought I would ask you all. (sure beats
making scrap)
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: broken flap rod-I saw it! |
I'll watch this thread with a modicum of interest.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pressure testing hoses |
Von;
It may be just the area I live in, but two out of the three auto parts
stores fabricate and pressure test hyd. and oil lines for 'trucks'. I found
that it worked for aircraft lines as well.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
Let's see, an axe to break the canopy in case of a roll over, Scuba gear to
prevent asphyxiation, fire extinguishers (good idea no matter what), BRS
chutes in case of structural failure, hand held back-up radios, etc, etc,
etc. By the time we cover every possible failure, the airplane will be so
heavy it will never get off the ground.
>Guys, I made a joke about the "top five ways to escape" the
>other day. I mentioned a "pony bottle". Seriously, I think
>that might not be a bad idea. It might not be a bad idea to
>have an emergency supply of air in the cockpit with you.
>The scuba air is compressed air, not compressed O2, so you
>wouldn't have the same considerations of enhancing fire than
>you would with O2. The problem is that the regulators build
>into these are set to deliver air at the same rate as the
>ambient pressure. Under water, the pressure is higher, not
>lower than the pressure under water, so I'm not sure of the
>effect. I can breath off my regular scuba gear with no
>problem sitting in my room, so I don't know. Maybe you
>could borrow a pony bottle and take it up to altitude and
>test it. Anyway, it might not be a bad idea to get some
>emergency supply, whether it's an O2 bottle/mask or whatever
>that has compressed air. There could also be times when the
>cockpit fills with smoke, etc.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/25/98 1:08:12 Central Standard Time, rimbold(at)ntr.net
writes:
<< In lots of computer rooms, there are signs that say a halon fire
extinguishing
system has been installed, and to exit the area if the alarm goes off. Good
advice, if there is a fire in a closed room.. >>
Good advise, if all the oxygen is about to be displaced. Lets see now, what
are the rules of combustion? If you have a fire, three things have to be
available. Fuel, an ignition source, and what was that other one? OK, YES!
OXYGEN!!
If you remove any one of those three, you have no fire.
Most fire extinguishing systems work by removing oxygen from the equation.
Halon is no different. We need oxygen to breath. If it isn't there, sooner or
later we stop breathing. It has little to do with toxicity. Having no air to
breath can be toxic.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Indiana RV's Storm French-Lick Resort |
Hi Listers,
This memo is a short note, just to remind everyone. RV's in formation cause
lots of problems!
loose formation. Two more (a 4 and a 6A) were circling and joined up. 122.75
(air to air) quickly became "the" RV channel ! NO ONE ELSE could talk !
Three other aircraft departing with the "group" were quickly left far behind.
Two more RV's were waiting near Shawnee Fld. at Bloomfield, In. Joining up,
the ten RV's single-filed down RWY. 18 hooping, and hollering and rolling
and just sucked up all the brown grass in their high speed pass. Much to the
delight of the local onlookers ! Approaching French Lick now, 26 mi. and 10
min. out. Switch to 122.800.
But wait, when Dave (lead aircraft) called in to FRH and requested
transportation, we found FIVE MORE RV's waiting there on the ramp! French-
Lick was "in-undated" with 15 RV's , several landing in loose formation at
once. The other pilots there were seen walking and gaulking up down the rows
of beautiful RVs, pausing here, pointing there. It was great. I don't have
the names, or the different types yet. I think they are recorded, and I will
get them out if you want them. I do know that we had (2) Rockets, (2) 3's,
many 4's, some 6's, a few 6A's, several friends in spamcams (5). They came
from: Indiana, Illinios, Michigan, and Kentucky.
Looks like the Indiana RV wing is growing! Sorry for the long report.
But, we thought you folks still building would like to know how much fun
you're gonna have very soon ;^) Gary and all the Indy RV'ers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Knots. The FAR's use control zone distance in nautical miles. ATC
gives winds/distances in knots/nautical miles. All new certificated
aircraft have ASI in knots. I have TASI with knots on the outside and
mph on the inside.
>
> Listers,
>
> I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering
what most
> people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally
seem to
> be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
> Inquiringly,
> Randy Lervold
> -8, #80500, N558RL reserved
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Stiffeners |
I didn't do what you are refering to, but I've heard others have. Shouldn't
be a problem. I plan on doing exactly that for the elevators.
-Larry
RV-8, R-410
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
JNice51355(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 8:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Stiffeners
While measuring for rudder stiffeners, I noted that if using the 3/16ths
distance from the skin trailing edge, there is part of the stiffener that is
way too close to the radius of the skin.(only on the right hand side of the
skin, due to the angle of the skin)
In order to allow some separation, I was comtemplating placing a 15degree
angle at this location, just like on the other side of the stiffener, except
on the portion that lays on the skin. Can anyone see any reason that this
should not be done? On the other side of the skin, this problem will not
exist, because the stiffener is facing the other direction, and the
separation
is fine.
I could not find any place on any of the drawings, or any reference in the
plans regarding this problem, so thought I would ask you all. (sure beats
making scrap)
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Knots is for training, and to seperate pilots from common folk...useless
IMO. To much thinking and work...I don't want to have to answer someone
when they say, "how fast are we going" and then I tell them "160 knots"
Then they don't want to sound stupid by asking what is the MPH equivalant,
or they have to sound stupid and say, "what's a knot"
Go with the MPH
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit Almost Here!
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
>people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
>be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
>Inquiringly,
>Randy Lervold
>-8, #80500, N558RL reserved
>finishing wings, starting fuse
>Vancouver, WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Control stick holes |
I'm at the point of cutting out the holes for the control sticks to come
through
the floor boards. The plans show the holes to be approx. 3.5" wide by 4"
long. I'm measuring almost 4.75" wide by 4" long. This is what I cut out
for
clearance for stick movement shark finned the two ribs one on each side.
Are the plans not correct?
Regards Mike Comeaux
RV6A-QB
Respond-off list to (mcomeaux(at)cmc.net)
Thanks again
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Randy;
I am going with knots because my GPS is knots, and weather reports are in
knots. Seems to keep everything a little less confusing.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what
>most
>people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally
>seem to
>be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
>Inquiringly,
>Randy Lervold
>-8, #80500, N558RL reserved
>finishing wings, starting fuse
>Vancouver, WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M Brooker" <jmb(at)mylink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Canopy / Survival |
I fly a RV6 with a tip up canopy ,I carry small axe in the cockpit. I found
this axe in the Cabela's catalog. It is made by Gerba and is called Back
Pax. The axe is only 8&7/8 inches long and weighs 17.5 ounces.It comes with
a nice nylon shealth with a sewn loop on it. This tool is of very high
quality. I keep it in between the seats with the loop around the aileron
trim lever so it will never fly around the cockpit during acrobatics. The
part number in Cabelas is FH-51-2472 and the price is 29.99. This axe would
From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 10:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Breaking Canopy / Survival
>
>For those interested, there is a great web site (non-profit,
>lists of things to include in a one-man, two-man, over-water, etc. survival
>kit. This is geared toward pilots. The web site is:
>
>www.equipped.com/basic.htm
>
>Sorry, nothing here that I found on breaking through a canopy. No
explosive
>bolts. No CO2 to take your breath away. No torch.
>
>Rick Jory
>Highlands Ranch, CO
>Potential RV-8a builder
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Randy,
I prefer knots because nautical miles make all mental flight computations
simpler. The advent of inexpensive area navigation equipment, however,
renders most mental calculations unnecessary. The choice now is merely one
of preference.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
Forming fiberglass plenum for remote oil cooler
> . . . mph or knots?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
>I checked the archives but did not find a satisfactory answer. Is it
>necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can I get
>away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side engine mount
>tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum. It sure would be easier
>to find space for a 2" hole in the baffles and route (short) 2" tubing to
>the plenum. From reading the archives, most people have trouble with low
>oil temps rather than high, right? Any thoughts?
Tom,
The remote mounted filters I have seen have all used 2" SCAT (factory
builts and RVs). The kit Van's makes expects 3" SCAT.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
>I checked the archives but did not find a satisfactory answer. Is it
>necessary to use a 3" SCAT tube to duct air to the oil cooler, or can I get
>away with a 2" tube? I am mounting the cooler on the left side engine mount
>tubes in the cheek area with a fiberglass plenum. It sure would be easier
>to find space for a 2" hole in the baffles and route (short) 2" tubing to
>the plenum. From reading the archives, most people have trouble with low
>oil temps rather than high, right? Any thoughts?
Tom,
The remote mounted filters I have seen have all used 3" SCAT (factory
builts and RVs). The kit Van's makes expects 3" SCAT.
Leo Davies
(Sorry about the typo in the first post)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring connector? |
Randy,
I ran the wires into the fuselage without connectors. I do not intend to
remove the wings. In the event that wing removal becomes necessary I can
cut the wires and install a connector then.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST a'building
> Question: have you put a molex or other multi-conducter
>plug at the inboard end of the wing, or have you left adequate wire to make
>a straight run to the switches/breakers? I can see advantages to each
>method.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
randy get one with both mph and knots.not your gps your instrument
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
>I'd have to advise that you be very careful taking any compressed air
>cylinder aloft, unless the cylinder was made for aircraft use. When outside
>pressure drops, the compressed air in the cylinder will put even more
>pressure on the walls of the cylinder. Scuba cylinders have a burst valve
>of some type, but I've been told that it gets pretty exciting when that lets
>go. If this happened in a closed cockpit, it would at the very least, scare
>years off you life.
Rusty,
Scuba tanks are pressurized to 2500 psi. At 10,000 feet you have dropped
about 7 psi in air pressure. It isn't a problem.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
> people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
> be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
> Inquiringly,
> Randy Lervold
> -8, #80500, N558RL reserved
> finishing wings, starting fuse
> Vancouver, WA
>
The simplest answer to this is to get a combination kts and mph
airspeed.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: broken flap rod-I saw it! |
<< At a fly-in
yesterday, I saw an RV-6 with a broken flap actuator rod. I recall this being
a thread of considerable length a while back, so I think this report might
apply. Personally, I never thought it possible to break this part...
The rod was broken at the end of the threads of the top rod end, that is the
rod end which attaches to the flap actuator assy inside the fuse. I know this
a/c has previous damage history, and it is possible that this parts could
have
been damaged in the accident (very hard landing: bent gear legs, etc)
Without mentioning any names, I will try to chase this down a bit. >>
This is exactly why mine are 4130 steel.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Capsteve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
I've found the best two products are the GE 25 year clear household sealant,
and castle products makes a rtv gasket maker that dispenses from a
pressurized canister. the GE stuff costs about 5 us and the castle stuff
costs 9.
>Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV. Would like to
avoid
>having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
>
>Thanks
>
>Tim Houle
>Rudder under construction
>Three Hills, Alta.
>***************************
>
>Tim Houle
>
>email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
>
>***************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote oil cooler question |
Thanks for your responses. After much consideration I have decided to use
3" tube. 'Twill be better to err on the side of too much cooling air flow
than too little. I will use a cockpit-controlled door at the baffle to
regulate oil temperature. I cannot find room for a 3" circular hole on the
left rear baffle and I am uncomfortable robbing so much cooling air from the
left rear cylinder head anyway. I am forming a fiberglass adapter that will
attach to the aft baffle in the curved portion inboard of the left top
engine mount bolt. The hole in the baffle will be rectangular with roughly
the same area as a 3" circle (it had to be slightly less). The fiberglass
adapter will change smoothly from a rectangular cross section at the baffle
to a circular cross section where the scat tube connects, will curve
outboard and down so that the scat tube will clear the cowl as it enters the
cheek area, and will incorporate a cockpit-controlled damper door. Today I
rough-carved a male mold out of blue foam. It looks like it will work.
Another fiberglass plenum will bolt to the oil cooler mounted to the engine
mount tubes in the cheek area.
Thanks again,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
Muddling around with that OTHER material again. Ugh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Seems to me the homebuilder community likes to publish performance in miles.
But you do flight planning, whether checking, etc, in knots. Statute miles
almost never comes up.
Mine will be knots.
-Joe
> I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
> people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
> be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Randy,
For months I have been wondering why so many people put speedometers in
their airplanes (mph) instead airspeed indicators (knots), but I was too
polite to ask. The only reason I can think of is mph gives you a bigger
number that sounds like it's faster.
I'm sure someone will set me straight.
Terry Watson
RV-8A rudder, wings on order
>Listers,
>
>I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
>people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
>be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: broken flap rod-I saw it! |
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 7:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: broken flap rod-I saw it!
>
>Listers:
>
>You can put me in the 'Now I've seen everything' catagory. At a fly-in
>yesterday, I saw an RV-6 with a broken flap actuator rod. I recall this
being
>a thread of considerable length a while back, so I think this report might
>apply. Personally, I never thought it possible to break this part...
>
>!
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
>No Mark, you haven't seen everything! During the ensuing repair of the
broken acuator, the one on the other flap fractured in two in the exact same
place! Imagine my surprise when I revisited the plane later in the afternoon
and saw the right flap hanging vertically. After some discussion, I surmised
that the owner (not the original builder) had been pulling the manual flap
handle beyond the last detent when extending full flaps. The aluminum tube
would bind in the hole in the fuselage ( on the most forward edge) if the
flap was extended beyond this point. I believe that this point of contact
coincided with the end of the threaded rod end. The owner states that he
intends to place a stop just above the last detent to prevent reoccurences.
Mystery solved, I think.
Ivan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
I notice alot of talk about using rtv to prevent rudder
cracks at the stiffeners in years past. Now that the
stiffener is 3/16 from the trailing edge, is there still a
need for rtv for this purpose? Has anyone out there had
cracks in the newer kits? Any suggestions before I rivet my
rudder together?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rudder stiffeners |
After the rudder is completed and the plane is flying, do
the rudder stiffeners come in contact with each other as
they do during bending the trailing edge? The reason I ask
is that I've got one or two stiffeners that are more than
3/16 from the trailing edge. On the short ones, it's more
like 1/4 or 5/16. I'm not worried about the 1/4 or 5/16
distance in itself because I know that this distance used to
be 1/2 inch back in 1992. What I'm worried about is the
fact that they are not all the same exact length. Do these
stiffeners lie against each other all the time to give the
rudder's shape some support? Or do the stiffeners not
contact each other at all normally (in which case I'm happy
as pie and not worried)? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Tim,
RTV is "room-temperature vulcanizing" synthetic rubber. It is commonly sold
in hardware and auto parts stores as "silicone seal" and like products. I
used an orange colored kind that is supposedly OK for high temp
applications. I got it from an auto parts place. It is called PERMATEX
High-Temp RTV Silicone. I found it over where the gasket materials were
displayed.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Drilling and riveting floors into my RV-6A
Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV.
Would like to avoid
having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | displacement of O2 |
The reason SCUBA cylinders are required to be shipped depressurised
has nothing to do with pressure rating. The problem is, if shipped as
freight and if the valve is damaged you could have a repeat of the
Valujet saga on a more personal level. High pressure drops produce
high heat (through the formation of shock waves and compressive
heating) and given an oxygen enriched atmosphere fires will result
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: displacement of O2
Date: 25-10-98 01:08
<< I'd have to advise that you be very careful taking any compressed air
cylinder aloft, unless the cylinder was made for aircraft use. When outside
pressure drops, the compressed air in the cylinder will put even more
pressure on the walls of the cylinder. Scuba cylinders have a burst valve
of some type, but I've been told that it gets pretty exciting when that lets
go. If this happened in a closed cockpit, it would at the very least, scare
years off you life. >>
Taking a SCUBA cylinder aloft is not really a problem in my view. They are
designed to take much more pressure than they're rated for. During periodic
hydrostatic testing, they are routinely over pressured. Aluminum 80 cu ft
tanks are rated at 3000 PSIg at atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI). Even if you
took it into space, the pressure delta would be insignificant (<0.5%). The
overpressure valve (ball and spring in seat) would just slowly vent the 15 PSI
in climb. No big deal IMO.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffeners |
Adrian:
The stiffeners are not supposed to contact each other, however most do from
what I've heard. IMO you are better off having them 1/16" short from the
end, because the points on the end of the stiffener can put a tiny dent in
the skin from the inside when you close it. (don't ask me how I know, just
look at mine at the next fly-in)
I wouldn't worry about it..the stiffeners are designed to do just what they
are called..to stiffen the skin. If they were ment to touch eachother, they
probably would need to be fastened together with something, like most other
places where pieces touch.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit Almost Here!
>
>After the rudder is completed and the plane is flying, do
>the rudder stiffeners come in contact with each other as
>they do during bending the trailing edge? The reason I ask
>is that I've got one or two stiffeners that are more than
>3/16 from the trailing edge. On the short ones, it's more
>like 1/4 or 5/16. I'm not worried about the 1/4 or 5/16
>distance in itself because I know that this distance used to
>be 1/2 inch back in 1992. What I'm worried about is the
>fact that they are not all the same exact length. Do these
>stiffeners lie against each other all the time to give the
>rudder's shape some support? Or do the stiffeners not
>contact each other at all normally (in which case I'm happy
>as pie and not worried)? Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flywheel & Alt Pulley |
In a message dated 10/25/98 11:42:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< The only thing I can figure is
to take the pulley off of the alternator and put a couple of thick
washers behind the pulley to bring it out. Any ideas? >>
Looks like you answered your own question. Yes, a shim will work for this.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Oh no. This has the makings of the Tail Wheel vs. Nose Wheel debate.
But I can help myself...
Knots because it is the universal unit for airspeed in aviation. ATC, GPS and
most pilots talk in Knots.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
BTW, TAIL WHEEL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
Halon does not remove Oxygen. It breaks down the process that makes the
flame.
Cecil Hatfield
>
>In a message dated 10/25/98 1:08:12 Central Standard Time,
>rimbold(at)ntr.net
>writes:
>
><< In lots of computer rooms, there are signs that say a halon fire
>extinguishing
> system has been installed, and to exit the area if the alarm goes
>off. Good
> advice, if there is a fire in a closed room.. >>
>
>Good advise, if all the oxygen is about to be displaced. Lets see now,
>what
>are the rules of combustion? If you have a fire, three things have to
>be
>available. Fuel, an ignition source, and what was that other one? OK,
>YES!
>OXYGEN!!
>
>If you remove any one of those three, you have no fire.
>
>Most fire extinguishing systems work by removing oxygen from the
>equation.
>Halon is no different. We need oxygen to breath. If it isn't there,
>sooner or
>later we stop breathing. It has little to do with toxicity. Having no
>air to
>breath can be toxic.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | wig-wag flashers |
Listers,
I just installed a module to alternately flash my landing lights. I used
a solid state unit for emergency vehicles that flashes 1.9/second.
Installation was easy and comments from ATC, other aircraft and people
on the ground has been very favourable. In fact I was approached twice
on Saturday by other pilots wanting to know more. I installed a double
pole double throw toggle right beside the throttle and accessable with
the forefinger with my hand on the throttle knob to turn it off/on.
As an added bonus, I have been told that it is a effective collision
avoidance system for birds. A friend in his RV-6 took a bird strike on
the canopy last month just behind me on takeoff. He was only doing
canopy but didn't total it.
I don't have the part numbers but will get them if there is any
interest. Any emergency supply house can provide heavy duty flashers for
school buses, police cars or ambulances. I paid $80CDN ($50US) for mine.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com |
LAST WEEK I READ SOME POSTINGS ABOUT WHEEL PANTS. THERE WAS SOME DISCUSSION
ABOUT RETRACTABLE PANTS. MY QUESTION IS HAS ANYONE TRIED THE MAULE STYLE
PANTS, WHICH ARE CALLED "SPATS"
I BELIEVE. FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NOT SEEN THEM, THEY DON'T COVER THE WHEEL
ITSELF BUT THE DO HAVE A TRAILING EDGE THAT BLENDS INTO THE WHEEL.
PERSONALLY, I DON'T LIKE THE LOOKS, BUT IT SEEMS LIKE AN EASY ALTERNATIVE, IF
THEY WORK.
STEVE NICHOLS
SOON TO BE RV-4 BUILDER
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
You asked:
>
> Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV. Would like to
> avoid
> having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
>
>
Van's instructions (for emp) mention Permatex Blue, and give a part number
of 77B. What I just used last week was Permatex Ultra-Blue, part 77BR, in a
3 oz. tube. This is significantly different from many of the other RTV /
Silicone compounds and adhesives in that it is NONCORROSIVE. Most of the
others either emit vapors of ammonia or acetic acid (vinegar) during cure -
these vapors aren't great on aluminum. Whether you choose to use the others
is up to you - whether the corrosion potential is great or not, I couldn't
begin to speculate.
For those not familiar with these compounds, they stick great to a lot of
things, but not at all to polyethylene (which the little opaque plastic tip
that comes with the tube is made of). This makes it easy to clean out the
plastic tip for reuse (I only used about 1/4 of the tube on my rudder last
week). When finished, take the tip off (cap the tube, of course), and using
a small stick - I used a wooden shishkabob skewer - clean out a fair amount
of the stuff from the plastic tip, so there is a clear hole all the way from
one end to the other. Leave enough blue stuff sticking out the threaded end
that you can grasp it after it cures. Let it sit a day, then grab and work
it out. Twisting it up like a rubber band on a toy airplane worked well for
me - it comes out quite easily, leaving the tube as clean as new. I paid
about $4.50 (U.S.) for it, will get the whole emp done with one tube, and
got it at Checker Auto Parts.
Hope this helps. Hope you can find it in Canada.
Keith Jensen
25285 -6A emp
Idaho
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Escaping after Rollover |
City of Dallas ordinance does not allow the use of Halon since 1991.
Existing systems maybe used but new systems must be of different gas.
Do not know if this applys to airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Halon (Was: Escaping after Rollover) |
Any time Halon is exposed in a close room, you better run!! We have halon
in our equipment room and the SOP is to run like hell if the alarm goes
off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailhost.onramp.net(at)mailhost.onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
My airspeed gauge has Knots and MPH so that takes out the guess work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
>>I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what
most
>>people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem
to
>>be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>>
MPH is for salesmen. Knots is for Pilots & Sailors. (Most companies have a
solution with mph in the inner ring.)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Would someone with an 0-360 and CHT/EGT gauges on all 4 cyl. tell which
cylinder runs the leanest? I am installing a single-cyl egt and am trying
to determine which cylinder to monitor.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Connection and Location |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am somewhat confused as to the size of AN816 nipple fitting I need to
thread into the engine (0-360) to hook up the oil cooler hoses. My oil
cooler is a Setrab with AN-8 size male(tube) fittings. What size is the
pipe thread in the engine? Which AN-816 steel fitting would I need, and
what size hoses to order to mate up with the oil cooler?
Along the same lines, I have seen two oil cooler failures in the last
year, both mounted onto the engine(one was yesterday on a local RV-8).
My conclusion is that if you mount the oil cooler on the engine, the
extreme vibration levels will make it much more likely to fail than if
mounted on the firewall. My Setrab oil cooler says right on it
"installation must be free of vibration and pulsation".
Even then, it seems like it would be a good idea to mount it on some sort
of rubber cushion seals or something to minimize vibration. Any
thoughts?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
> Anyone know of a place in Canada that I can pick up RTV. Would like to
avoid
> having to get it shipped up from the States if possible.
Canadian Tire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
The RV-4 I used to have had dual electronic turn signal flashers from an
auto supply, at $4.99 each. It had nearly 1,000 hours on it. The only
disadvantage is the lights did not flash in opposition to each other, but
sporadically.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Listers,
>
>I just installed a module to alternately flash my landing lights. I
>used
>a solid state unit for emergency vehicles that flashes 1.9/second.
>Installation was easy and comments from ATC, other aircraft and people
>on the ground has been very favourable. In fact I was approached twice
>on Saturday by other pilots wanting to know more. I installed a double
>pole double throw toggle right beside the throttle and accessable with
>the forefinger with my hand on the throttle knob to turn it off/on.
>
>As an added bonus, I have been told that it is a effective collision
>avoidance system for birds. A friend in his RV-6 took a bird strike on
>the canopy last month just behind me on takeoff. He was only doing
>his
>canopy but didn't total it.
>
>I don't have the part numbers but will get them if there is any
>interest. Any emergency supply house can provide heavy duty flashers
>for
>school buses, police cars or ambulances. I paid $80CDN ($50US) for
>mine.
>
>Terry Jantzi
>Kitchener ON
>RV-6 C-GZRV
>
><http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Push Rod Bolts |
Sorry, folks. I forgot to mention I am building a 6A.
Thanks,
Ross
>
>Well, Ive' looked at the plans and looked in the archive and I can't see
>what bolt/nut combination goes on the end of the push rod that attaches to
>the control sticks. Page 40 shows a detail "A" but no bolt call out. The
>bearing is a HEIM F3514M 3/16 bore. It looks like a AN 3-7A with a AN
>365-1032 and AN 960-10 will work.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ross Mickey
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Listers,
>
>I just installed a module to alternately flash my landing lights. I used
>a solid state unit for emergency vehicles that flashes 1.9/second.
Sounds like something I've been interested in since seeing a similar setup
on another aircraft in a local pattern. _Very_ noticable.
Have you any feel (or other's experience) for what such use does to the
life expectantcy of the bulb? A light bulb generally "burns out" when
turned on from the current surge. Repeated cycles seems like would reduce
life.
Not a problem, per se. Worth it for enhance visibility IMO. Just make
the lens covers quick release :)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp details, wings on the truck (?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
There has been a death in the family. Just wanted people to know that I am
not "unsubscribing" cuz I overeacted to some emotional thread.
Jim Nice
RV6A
Be Back Soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <danb(at)accex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
> Valujet saga on a more personal level. High pressure drops produce
> high heat (through the formation of shock waves and compressive
> heating) and given an oxygen enriched atmosphere fires will result
Don't know about shock waves, but pressure drops produce _cold_. This
is why, for example, you often see intercoolers with a
you'd want to cool it before using it in the engine. It's a similar
gets hot, cool it by running it through a radiator, and then reduce the
pressure, and it gets cold. Freon has the additional advantage of
liquefying and vaporizing in between these stages, resulting in more
heat absorbed and given off.
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, danb(at)accex.net
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good
with ketchup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
> people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
> be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
Randy,
So far, as I write this response to your inquiry, you have five responses in favor
of knots, one in favor of knots but suggesting both, two suggesting both with no
stated preference, and one lone vote in favor of MPH. My vote goes with the
majority: knots only.
In addition to the fact that the "official" world of aviation operates with knots
(e.g., FAR, AIM, ATC), there are sound reasons to go with knots. A nautical mile,
as we learned in ground school, is exactly one minute of angle measured on the
earth's surface, thus dividing latitude into 21,600 nautical miles. Thus, when
we
pick up a sectional, we always have readily available a scale of nautical miles
depicted vertically on the chart. Moreover, the most fundamental logic of dead
reckoning (laugh if you will, but don't lose your fancy electronic navigational
capability) depends on the wind triangle, and winds are reported in knots. Why
put yourself in a position to have to convert knots to MPH because (to use Terry
Watson's nomenclature) you have a speedometer instead of an airspeed indicator?
When you get ATIS information, you face the same problem: winds are in knots;
thus, your airspeed indicator should be scaled in knots.
I have quite a few hours in Piper Warriors, which have ASIs marked with both knots
on the outer scale and MPH on the inner scale. I have, on occasion, caught myself
using the wrong scale, not a mistake conducive to longevity when you have stalling
speeds in your head in knots. Avoid the confusion; go with knots only. Pay the
price of conversion in your conversations with non-pilots.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
Listers;
My 0-360-A1A Flywheel and Alternator pulleys are about 3/16" out of
alignment. Is this a problem? It seems to me like this would result in
excess wear on the belt. How would I adjust this? I dont see any
adjustment fore and aft on the alternator. The only thing I can figure is
to take the pulley off of the alternator and put a couple of thick
washers behind the pulley to bring it out. Any ideas?
I mounted an auto alternator (modified for external voltage regulator, see
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a ) using Van's mounting bracket kit. I
had to extend the bolt slots in the mounting bracket so the bracket would
hold the alternator such that it was aligned with the flywheel. My IA/Tech
Counselor stressed the importance of alternator/flywheel alignment to
minimize belt wear.
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ
Engine tested, finished spinner this weekend (not hard)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
>> Anyway, there is a video available for $34.95 that is produced by
>> gentlemen doing the demo. I don't think the video is affiliated with
>> Mattituck though. Call 888-490-9745. I believe his name is Philip Haponic.
>>
>> Jerry Isler
>> RV4 #1070
>> Donalsonville, Ga
I bought the video at Oshkosh and have mixed emotions about it. Mine is the
IO-360 video and I like it, but I would like more info in a couple of
areas.
First, they start off with a bare crank and build the engine from there. I
would also like to see the tear down with some detail about problem areas.
Secondly, I would have liked more IO-360 specific information about what to
watch for(again problems).
It is about thirty minutes and again just not as much detail as I would
like. These guys do hundreds of engines a year and I would have liked for
them to have shared more of there experiences.
Shelby in Nashville
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Must reading for all listers |
>
>Listers,
>
>It's about that time of year again. Those of you who have been on the list
>for a while know that about twice a year we like to promote taking up a
>VOLUNTARY collection for Matt.
I just did the online credit card thing for Matt. Have you? Why not? Let
me tell you why I did it.
I am not a builder. Never will be. I am a flyer. I subscribe to this list
for these reasons. First of all, I have met some of the nicest people in
the world here and we have common bond in flying. Secondly, as a
non-builder it clues me in on areas in the airplane that I need to watch
maintenance wise. Those of you who built your own know them personally.
Those of us who bought them need the benefit of that insight. Finally, as
most of you know, from time to time I have opinions. I am presumptuous
enough to believe that some of my opinions may be of benefit to others that
have not been fortunate (or unfortunate) to have shared some of my
experiences. I enjoy sharing them and also the mental exercise of defending
them when challenged.
In short, if you can't save enough money from the hints you find on this
list, to throw a few bucks to Matt & Co. for providing this valuable
service, You can't afford to build or fly an RV.
It is real easy just click here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Tailwinds, N240 the pink panther
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Phoenix Fire Suppression Systems, which has a firewall forward
supressions system that a couple a local builders have installed uses a 1301
Halon. Does anyone have any knowlege on this type? They say the main
difference from 1211 is that it is less toxic.
I might have missed that in the last go around, if so anyone can answer me
off list if they want. Thanks.
Have a better day than the best day of your life!
Denny Harjehausen - Wiring the RV-6 (??)
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Well, it was bound to hapen...
After smugly deleting all the recent posts about leaking fuel tank inspection
plates, I went out to the aerodrome yesterday to find ugly blue stains under
the right wing, and much of the paint gone from the right gear leg fairing,
eaten away by avgas. Removal of the root fairing confirmed my suspicions: gas
is seeping out from under the heads of five screws that hold the inspection
plate on. I'm afraid to look at the opposite tank, and the fuel level
senders! I used the cork gasket technique with Permatex Aviation Form-A-
Gasket goo under the screw heads and on both sides of the cork. Now, after
searching the archives, I find a post indicating that this compound, and the
RTV silicones, are not approved for this application involving prolonged
contact with fuels. Aargh!
I want to redo this with better material. ProSeal and Fuel Lube both come
highly recommended. So does neoprene gasket material (concerns about the cork
ultimately leaking through the material itself or drying out). But I am
wondering if it makes sense to use any type of sealer with the neoprene
gasket. I understand special screws can be obtained with the heads sealed by
O-rings. I have already tried unsuccessfully to tighten the screws to stop
the leak - can't get any of them to budge clockwise.
Any advice appreciated.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 40 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring connector? |
I put connectors between the wings and fuselage. I did this mainly
because I am trying to do everything I possibly can while the plane is
in the garage, and I can't put the wings on in there. By doing this I
can get these wire runs done at home, and just plug them in when the
wings go on.
For these and other connections, I've been using those insulated Spade
quick connectors (sold in Van's Catalog). Not as nice as molex for
multiple wires, but they work, and the crimp tool I have handles them.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Studs |
Hi,
I've read the other emails suggesting various methods.
Mechanic's number one rule: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
That doesn't mean to rule out preventive maintenance but in overhauling more
than 200 auto engines from all kinds of weird little foreign cars and breaking
many studs, my advice is to leave well enough alone. This is also a rule for
physicians coming from way back in antiquity, "First, do no harm."
If double nut method doesn't slip and doesn't loosen it *EASILY* more leverage
will surely break it off. Then, a stud remover won't. If the stud is not
eroded or rusted away I'd just brush it a bit. I wouldn't even chase threads as
this can reduce them which is not needed.
At the price they get for the studs, you'd think you'd get better stuff.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Priming steel parts w/ bushings |
> The control sticks ....
I was just going to put ACF or Boesheild on them.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: engine for sale |
Is currently unrepaired from swallowing a valve?
Watch out! My partner is a MG sports car business, bought a racing Porsche
engine that had blown up - it looked good on the outside but all he could
salvage were the carburetors! A swallowed valve can migrate all through the
engine in short order at 2500 RPM which is more than forty in one second!
hal
> Lycoming IO360-? (perhaps an A1A). 1.5 hours after third rebuild. Taken
> out of a Lance (I think). The engine swallowed a valve on a checkout
> flight. w/o mags, fuel control, governor, accessories. That's all I know,
> no warranties expressed or implied.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
IFR is all in knots.
Marketing dudes like mph as it gives higher, more impressive numbers and is easy
for road types.
Why is experimental so mph oriented??
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-8 builder |
Well after lurking around here for the last month, I have officially
joined the RV family.
I bought Michael Angiulo's RV-8 kit (80047). So I am starting with a
completed empennage and left wing, sort of a poor man's Quick Build!
Anyway, I've never worked with aluminum before, so I'm sure I'll have
lots of questions for you listers!
Sylvain Duford
RV-8 Wings
Bellevue, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: rv lsit: AILerons |
On Sun, 25 Oct 1998, Sam Richards wrote:
> Usually most of us would prefer to be on the advice giving end of the
> list, which means everything is going well.
Yup. Except it means we've already made whatever mistake you've made... I
guess I must still be a few mistakes ahead of you in mt RV construction!
> feeling quite good about how everything had been going I find a nice #30
> perforated track running evenly from the center of the spar out to
> the edge in the middle and back in to the center at the other end.
> When I say edge, I mean as-in over the.. (reminding me it's a good thing
> I'm a flat-lander).
Been there, done that. I think I bowed my aileron spar by trying to pull
the skin too tight. That being my second R aileron, I decided I'd try to
fix it rather than buy a third set of R aileron parts. I carefully figured
out where the spar lays on the skin, then drilled a new set of holes in
between the prepunched holes, so that they all went through the middle of
the spar flange. So I have 2 lines of pop rivets in the bottom of that
aileron... the pre-punched ones that are in a straight line, but (in the
centre of the aileron) almost miss the flange, and a slightly curved line
that actually attaches the skin securely to the spar.
I thought I'd written this up in my Bunny's Guide
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm, but perhaps I was too
embarassed?
> Q 1: Is the left assy a loss? If not, please suggest a fix.
Given that it's your L aileron and my R, how about we swap? I'll send you
my R one so you have a matching set?
Frank.
(owner of 3 ailerons, almost ready to close wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers |
Mike Thompson wrote:
> Sounds like something I've been interested in since seeing a similar setup
> on another aircraft in a local pattern. _Very_ noticable.
>
> Have you any feel (or other's experience) for what such use does to the
> life expectantcy of the bulb? A light bulb generally "burns out" when
> turned on from the current surge. Repeated cycles seems like would reduce
> life.
I don't know what the life of the lamp will be. At 1.9 flashes/sec the
filament does not turn completely off. I always thought that cold starts
were the reason for decreased life. The lamps are rated for 4000 hours
already. I would even accept 50% of that :)
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
>
>Knots is for training, and to seperate pilots from common folk...useless
>IMO. To much thinking and work...I don't want to have to answer someone
>when they say, "how fast are we going" and then I tell them "160 knots"
>
>Then they don't want to sound stupid by asking what is the MPH equivalant,
>or they have to sound stupid and say, "what's a knot"
>
>Go with the MPH
Paul,
I don't want to sound too precious but there is something nice about the
fact that a nautical mile bears a direct relationship to the earth's
circumference. I am used to all my nav charts having nautical miles on the
legs....is this not the case in the U.S.?
Also in Australia non-pilots think in kph and the conversion from knots is
about 2:1 so its easier to answer the how fast are we going question.
Anyhow.... we don't got a choice.... knots is stipulated in the land
downunder.
Cheers,
Leo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> Van's instructions (for emp) mention Permatex Blue, and give a part number
> of 77B. What I just used last week was Permatex Ultra-Blue, part 77BR, in a
> 3 oz. tube. This is significantly different from many of the other RTV /
> Silicone compounds and adhesives in that it is NONCORROSIVE. Most of the
> others either emit vapors of ammonia or acetic acid (vinegar) during cure -
> these vapors aren't great on aluminum.
AIEEE! Not the "corrosive RTV" thread again! :-}
The notion of "corrosive" RTV is pretty much a myth. Regular RTV
contains acetic acid, which every now and then someone gets excited
about (I admit, I was one such) because acetic acid will reportedly
"corrode" metal. Well, the real scoop is that the acetic acid is there
to ETCH the metal for a better bond, and will not corrode anything once
it has cured. This word came from one of the RTV manufacturers' reps,
and a couple of years ago Van, who is not one to blindly take the word
of a manufacturer's rep, had some tests performed with this stuff in an
environmental chamber. The results were that the "corrosive" (i.e.
acetic acid based) RTV didn't result in any corrosion. The "non-
the metal nearly as well as the acetic-acid based RTV.
So don't worry about getting "non-corrosive" RTV.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Overhaul Video |
>
>A while back there was a discussion about engine overhaul videos. I
>remembered that George said he would be going ahead with one for an
>engine for the 8 project.
Well, I didn't use a video. I purchased the Lycoming overhaul manual and
parts list so I could overhaul my O-320-D2J. If you have worked on engines
before everything is very straightforward. My 15-year-old son and I did
all the work and the darn thing even runs and hasn't quit. :^)
I found the parts list to be a lot more useful than the overhaul manual
when it came to the actual reassembly process but the overhaul manual gives
you all the background you need to know why you are doing things.
In all probability you are not going to do your own machine work. I know I
didn't. I bundled the bottom end off to Nickson Machine in Santa Maria,
CA. Seems that this is the place that a lot of the west coast "premium"
rebuilders use to do their machine work. They inspected and reground my
cam and crank. They did the clean-up, inspection, and align boring of the
cases. They also installed new bushings and bearings in the accessory
drive section. They inspected the rods and pressed in new wrist pin bushings.
I had Lycon do the cylinders and they returned them to me ready to bolt
onto the cases with the pistons already inserted into the cylinder bores.
The hardest work was going through the parts list and making sure I
purchased all the parts I needed new, e.g. various nuts and bolts, cam
followers (lifter bodies), hydraulic lifters, seals and gaskets, new oil
pump gears, bearings, etc. I forgot a few things but that just delayed
things a bit and wasn't critical.
Oh, and you need an engine stand. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: displacement of O2 |
>
>how true
>VALUE JET , MIAMI EVERGLADES, 1996 OXYGEN CANISTERS !!!
Those were not compressed gas bottles. They were pyrotechnic oxygen
generators (same material as the inexpensive "SolidOX" welding outfits) and
caused the problem by actually setting the aircraft on fire from the heat
of inadvertant operation.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT LEAN CYL? |
>
>Would someone with an 0-360 and CHT/EGT gauges on all 4 cyl. tell which
>cylinder runs the leanest? I am installing a single-cyl egt and am trying
>to determine which cylinder to monitor.
You don't know ahead of time. My leanest cylinder depends on throttle
position, altitude, and RPM. My experience with different engines is that
it varies from engine to engine. It even changed when I added a carb
throat temp probe. It is for this reason that you probably want EGT on all
your cylinders, at least at first. After awhile you will learn the
patterns of EGT for your particular engine.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Mph vs. Kts? |
Ok. I gotta jump in.
Here's a big picture of America as a whole. Why is there 4 quartz to a
gallon, 2 pints to a quart, 12 inches to a foot, football fans know there
are 2 knees to a foot, 2000lbs to a ton? and not 10mm to a cm, or 100cm to a
meter? which seem very logical to me. Why do some people like to index a
number every 8 or 16 units (computer scientists)? others index every 10?
Don't tell me the answers because they all make sense. The point is why ask
why? These things make America unique and that's why I like America.
America also means choices. If you find yourself converting Kts to Miles
all the time, here's your chance to pick what's convenient for yourself.
Why not get one of those having both scales?
Ahn
>
>Seems to me the homebuilder community likes to publish performance in miles.
>But you do flight planning, whether checking, etc, in knots. Statute miles
>almost never comes up.
>
>Mine will be knots.
>
>-Joe
>
>> I will be purchasing my airspeed indicator soon and was wondering what most
>> people are doing... mph or knots. Most of the builders here locally seem to
>> be going mph, what have you seen, and what would you advise?
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers |
I purchased a emergency light system [wig wag] through J.C.Whitney
Co. It was made by North American Signal Co., Wheeling, IL 60090...Model
no. SSAF-20.
I am at that stage of wiring and am trying to figure the wiring out
as they did not send schematic. The switch and the unit is labled. But not
where it is clear to me how the wires are attached through the landing light
switches.
The switch with a stickum on one side which says [FL. +] there are
two blade type connectors on that side of the switch....on the other side is
a stickum with [LD LD] and two blade type connectors on that side of the
switch.
They also sent what I assume is the flasher unit. It has a three
cooling fins on each end and a solid center with four nut type connectors.
A stickum on the top has [LOAD] by two of the nut connectors, [NEG] by
another connector and a [POS] by the other connector. I have two switches
for the landing lights that somehow is to be connected with flasher through
the flasher switch.
If anyone has this unit, maybe you could give me a hint. Thanks.
Have a better day than the best day of your life!
Denny Harjehausen - Wiring the RV-6 (??)
Lebanon, OR
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| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers |
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I just installed a module to alternately flash my landing lights. I
used
> a solid state unit for emergency vehicles that flashes 1.9/second.
Any emergency supply house can provide heavy duty flashers for
> school buses, police cars or ambulances. I paid $80CDN ($50US) for
mine.
>
> Terry Jantzi
> Kitchener ON
> RV-6 C-GZRV
>
> <http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
I did something similar. I purchased an emergency vehicle high beam
flasher kit from J.C. Whitney for $7.77 several years ago. I reverse
engineered it and removed the mechanical flasher. After 255 flying
hours , it has worked on every landing with 100W aircraft landing
lights.
Please post the part number if you got it. I am a cheap Electrical
Engineer that tends to buy the best value. When my flasher breaks, I
will look for the cheapest replacement.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fule tank leaks |
>
>Well, it was bound to hapen...
>
>After smugly deleting all the recent posts about leaking fuel tank inspection
>plates, I went out to the aerodrome yesterday to find ugly blue stains under
>the right wing, and much of the paint gone from the right gear leg fairing,
>Sorry to hear about the fuel leaks!!!! It is one of the most troublesome
thing to handle with the RV's if you come up with a leak. All the builders
here and any that have talked about sealing tanks, that asked, have been
told to completly cover with pro-seal all screws and covers and gasket
edges around the inspection cover and also the guage screws and top and
edges. We have used cork and other type of gaskets but gas will follow the
screws out and also the expansion and contraction of tank will give trouble
with any gasket material. In your case I would think that you could use a
cleaner, such as MEK, or lacquer thinner to clean area and apply proseal
over the area without taking the tanks off. Drain fuel out so that it is
dry and use a mirror, and to help to spread the pro-seal thinn with a
little lacquer thinner and paint it on with a brush first, let dry down
then add heavier coat of pro-seal. This has worked before and it might be
worth a try. Good Luck.
Ralph Koger RV-6A
October 20, 1998 - October 26, 1998
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