RV-Archive.digest.vol-fu
November 05, 1998 - November 10, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Bright polishing wheels |
Cecil,
As the father of an 8 1/2 Yr. old and user of Johns' wheels I was wondering
what you meant by this comment? Please explain! AL
>
>I was wondering why there are more single parent homes in todays times.
>Dad
>writes:
Fellow listers;
I have Scotch Bright polishing wheels available at a great price. Just
what is needed when building a metal airplane. Anyone that has polished
with one knows how fast a smooth edge can be obtained. All the filing is
gone. I made an adapter and put them on a 1/2 HP motor shaft. My wheels
are in the original 3M boxes and are a full 12 inch diameter, 3 inches
wide, and with a 5 inch bore. I am asking 30 dollars each plus shipping.
Contact me off line if interested.
>>John N721JK RV-4 280 hours Ohio <<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vert fin offset |
Listers, For what its worth on the original prototype RV-6 that we do
flight training in, the rudder was offset about 1/4 of an inch but still
took an awful lot of fixed tab to put the ball in the center at cruise
power settings. Last winter we took it apart and offset the rudder
nearly 1/2 inch and still needed almost the same amout of fixed tabs to
put ball in the center. Im not sure why but it seems that offsetting the
rudder had almost no effect. Ive seen several airplanes that actually
had left rudder tabs to put the ball in the center.
Michael Seager
rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
> this is not only legal, but done all over the country.
-
Actually it is not legal.
Often the misconception though is that the person doing the construction
is the one breaking the law. This is most often not the case.
They day that an airworthiness cert.. is applied for, if the person that
the airplane was being built for signs the application he is committing
perjury (which the form very clearly points out, and also tells you what
the penalties are).
The form requires you to sign a notarized signature answering the
statement that the signee constructed the major portion of the airplane
for his own education and recreation.
The person that constructed the airplane has broken no FAR's. Only the
person claiming to have built it is (so that he/she can apply for a
repairmans certificate).
Now if a professional builder builds an RV with the intent to sell it
immediately, and then build's another one, etc. etc. he is also
committing perjury because his intent was to make money (be an aircraft
manufacturer) not for his education and recreation.
In this instance it would be very hard for the FAA to gain a conviction
but it is wrong as far as the FAR's are concerned.
-
The issue I
>think you are addressing, is the ability of the final owner to obtain
>the Repairman's Certificate. That requires that he/she build 51% of
>the
>plane. The fact that Scott I building and then selling finished kits
>is
>no different than you or I selling our already finished flying
>aircraft's.....
>
As far as the FAA is concerned it is (see above) but it is highly
unlikely that they would ever challenge him on it.
In another post it was mentioned that there is no way to have an annual
condition inspection done on an airplane certified in the experimental
amateur built category unless you get a repairmans certificate for the
airplane.
This is incorrect.
The inspection can be done by a mechanic who has the repairmans cert.
issued for that particular airplane ( there are other repairmans
certificates that are issued for workers in overhaul shops etc.) or by an
FAA certified mechanic holding at least an A&P certificate.
This is usually mentioned in the aircrafts operating limitations and it
is mentioned in the FAR's but I don't have a copy at home so I can't
check
where.
Before anyone flames me please keep in mind that I am only providing info
on how the FAA interprets the FAR's and how they look at the situation.
The regs are written to prevent someone from becoming an aircraft
manufacturer with out meeting the requirements that other manufacturers
have to (and for good reason). That is what FAR 23 and the new primary
category is for.
BTW I am not personally against anyone working as a hired gun builder.
My only concern is to not have the regs changed and made more restrictive
for people following the regs. In the U.S. we enjoy the least
restrictive amateur built aircraft regs in the world and I would like it
to stay that way.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tracy Saylor-e-mail |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Does anyone have Tracy Saylors e-mail address? If you have it please send
direct off-list.
Thanks!
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AirBox Installation |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
While I am doing the engine plumbing, etc. I would like to go ahead and
install the FAB-360 airbox unit. Is there any problem with doing this
before I have started the cowling installation? I have the new epoxy
cowling which already has the scoop molded in.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid vs. STEC or Single Avix vs. Double Axis Autopilot |
Why is everybody knocking the navaid a/p? It is a great inexpensive system
that works really well, provided it is installed correctly. I installed the
navaid in my SIX not for IFR flying but to keep me on course during my cross
country flying. Prior to having the navaid I would frequently find myself
several miles off course while enroute at altitude, simply because I was too
busy enjoying the scenery. I have flown with the Century I and the STEC 30
single axis autopilots, and they all perform well. The Navaid is a quality
unit that performs well in turbulence, and can be adjusted to your specific
likings in flight with the use of a small screwdriver on the face of the
instrument. Like any autopilot it does a modest job of tracking vor/loc
signals simply because it is following a needle that is bouncing around inside
a vor head. All of these autopilots track electronic signals (gps/loran) with
incredible smoothness. I don,t use my navaid on every flight, the RV,s are
just too much fun to fly, but if I had to do it again I would still install
the navaid because it is the best bang for the buck! With the money saved on
the navaid you would have plenty of bucks left over for stuff like maybe a
fuel computer, which is a great addition to your panel.
It,s your money
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stanley Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
I'm posting this for a fellow RV builder/pilot who is not on the list.
For Sale:
Lycoming O-320-D2J
1950 TT
130 SMOH to factory tolerances
Carb, fuel pump & mags included
Currently flying in RV-6A, try before you buy!
Price: $12,500
Please contact Rick Liles, the owner, directly at:
Ph: 806-794-7336
Lubbock, TX
E-mail Address:
RLiles(at)indmolding.com
I have flown in this plane. It was at Van's homecoming this year.
This is a good engine and Rick is an honest person to deal with (IMO).
Thanks,
Stan Blanton
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Fred, The real thing here is you have to sign an affidavit stating that
you built 51% or more of the airplane to be elegible for an amateur
built certificate. True you can build as many as you want so long as
some else doesnt try to license them. Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine preservation |
Joel,
If the engine was full of oil this would definitly help
keep an oil film on the cam lobes. Aeroshell has a new
preservative oil that is supposed to be great. You can also
fill the entire engine with auto oil thru the breather port on
the accessory case since it is verticle on the stand.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: holes in spar |
Remember, raps with a 10-14 oz. ball peen is normal to get these in the
hole. A discussion about a year ago on it.
LP 3 or 4?? is good as a lube and seize preventer as a reccom. additive. It
turns a little waxy after time, but stays as a lube and corrosion preventer.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>> I'm having trouble getting the close-tolerance bolts in the spar holes,
>> especially the 3/8" ones, even after cleaning out with emery paper. Any
>> advice will be appreciated. Is it advisable to use 5/10000 undersize
>reamers?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Attach-RV-8 |
Von;
There was quite a discussion regarding this about a year ago. It must be in
the archives. If you are like me, you don't know how to search for it.
In short, a modified rube goldberg arrangement and the mix. control will
attach.
Mail me direct if you want more info.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>I have one of Vans 'throttle-mixture attach brackets'. I have the
>throttle installed, but is this bracket also supposed to support the
>mixture cable? If it is, how does it work? If it doesn't, then what is
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Scotch Bright wheels |
Sorry listers, but I have been unable to answer the questions of John
Solecki about polishing wheels.
Please contact me again John.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Navaid wing leveler in RV-8 |
Hi Listers,
I am working on the wings of my RV-8, and am pondering where to mount
the servo of my Navaid Devices wing leveler. I am looking for
feedback from any other -8 builders who plan to use the Navaid.
Where and how are you mounting the servo?
The only RV-8 I have ever seen under construction is mine, so I don't
have a good feel for my options for mounting the servo in the
fuselage. If I am going to put it in the wings, I want to make that
decision soon so I can mount it before closing things up.
I had a look through the archives, but there wasn't much RV-8
specific info, except for a post from Scott McDaniels suggesting to
connect the wing leveler to the WD-807 control column weldment. If I
did that, where would the servo mount? In the fuselage, or in the
inboard wing with a long pushrod?
Thanks for your wisdom.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison electronic ignition |
> That was engine guru Everett Hatch's analysis, too. He talked me out of
> replacing the mags on my hopped-up O-360.
>
> > Unless the price of fuel goes up a dollar per gallon or so,
> >the Lasar system never breaks even against the stock mags with impulse
> >couplings. Yes, the Lasar system has a slight performance advantage up
> >high and I *really* like high-tech toys but I couldn't justify it on the
> >basis of cost. It gains you nothing down low at high power.
Of course, everything else that we builders do is also based solely upon
payback and practicality. :-)
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
Listers:
On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my VM-1000
engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures. It was
indicating between 45 and 65 deg. F for the climb out and much of the
flight. At times, however, it did indicate 165 to 170 deg. F. I believe
the 170 deg. reading, but I don't believe the 65 deg. OAT was around 0 deg.
C. My oil cooler is currently "winterized". (The oil cooler inlet is
covered with a plate that has a 3/4" dia. hole in it.)
I would appreciate any suggestions on how I might trouble shoot this problem.
Thanks.
Mark Nielsen
Green Bay, WI
RV-6, 295 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
borrow an old fashioned oil temp guage, and try again....
Mark Nielsen wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my VM-1000
> engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures. It was
> indicating between 45 and 65 deg. F for the climb out and much of the
> flight. At times, however, it did indicate 165 to 170 deg. F. I believe
> the 170 deg. reading, but I don't believe the 65 deg. OAT was around 0 deg.
> C. My oil cooler is currently "winterized". (The oil cooler inlet is
> covered with a plate that has a 3/4" dia. hole in it.)
>
> I would appreciate any suggestions on how I might trouble shoot this problem.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mark Nielsen
> Green Bay, WI
> RV-6, 295 hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: How much Navaid Throw? |
Paul,
I have rotated the servo arm to the up position, and have the control
rod bracket in the up position and am using the hole most distant from the
bolt holes.
The servo is mounted under the passenger seat and is being linked at the
bottom of the passenger stick.
I'll try to remember and check the throw and send that info to you as
well.
Ron V.,RV-6Q, passed FAA inspection, and readying for engine start.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Gauge |
<< On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my
VM-1000
engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures. It was
indicating between 45 and 65 deg. F for the climb out and much of the
flight. At times, however, it did indicate 165 to 170 deg. F. I believe
the 170 deg. reading, but I don't believe the 65 deg.
I would appreciate any suggestions on how I might trouble shoot this problem.
>>
Check the connections first and make sure that all are clean and tight.
Thermocouples usually work correctly or they don't work at all. Only on very
rare occasions are they intermittently open and very very rarely are they
shorted. Check to ensure that the wires going to the DPU are well stripped
and you are clamping on wire, not on the insulation.
Warm up the engine and then shut it all down. Turn on the VM and see what
temp you are reading. Have someone watch the gauge for a change while you
move the wiring around to see if you have a break in the wiring. If that
doesn't work, get VM to send a new sender.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tracy Saylor-e-mail |
<< Does anyone have Tracy Saylors e-mail address? >>
When I talked to Tracy at Van's homecoming he had not yet gotten a computer.
Try a phone.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
It is not the builder who gets "hanged" but the new owner who signs the
affidavit that the ac was built by himself.JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Urban <ruok(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Here's a hypothetical for you....
20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate?
Bob Urban
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> -
> The issue I
> >think you are addressing, is the ability of the final owner to obtain
> >the Repairman's Certificate. That requires that he/she build 51% of
> >the
> >plane. The fact that Scott I building and then selling finished kits
> >is
> >no different than you or I selling our already finished flying
> >aircraft's.....
> >
> As far as the FAA is concerned it is (see above) but it is highly
> unlikely that they would ever challenge him on it.
>
> In another post it was mentioned that there is no way to have an annual
> condition inspection done on an airplane certified in the experimental
> amateur built category unless you get a repairmans certificate for the
> airplane.
> This is incorrect.
> The inspection can be done by a mechanic who has the repairmans cert.
> issued for that particular airplane ( there are other repairmans
> certificates that are issued for workers in overhaul shops etc.) or by an
> FAA certified mechanic holding at least an A&P certificate.
> This is usually mentioned in the aircrafts operating limitations and it
> is mentioned in the FAR's but I don't have a copy at home so I can't
> check
> where.
>
> Before anyone flames me please keep in mind that I am only providing info
> on how the FAA interprets the FAR's and how they look at the situation.
> The regs are written to prevent someone from becoming an aircraft
> manufacturer with out meeting the requirements that other manufacturers
> have to (and for good reason). That is what FAR 23 and the new primary
> category is for.
>
> BTW I am not personally against anyone working as a hired gun builder.
> My only concern is to not have the regs changed and made more restrictive
> for people following the regs. In the U.S. we enjoy the least
> restrictive amateur built aircraft regs in the world and I would like it
> to stay that way.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
No but probably the teacher in charge can....
From: Bob Urban <ruok(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>
>Here's a hypothetical for you....
>
>20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
>Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
>Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate?
>
>Bob Urban
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>> -
>> The issue I
>> >think you are addressing, is the ability of the final owner to obtain
>> >the Repairman's Certificate. That requires that he/she build 51% of
>> >the
>> >plane. The fact that Scott I building and then selling finished kits
>> >is
>> >no different than you or I selling our already finished flying
>> >aircraft's.....
>> >
>> As far as the FAA is concerned it is (see above) but it is highly
>> unlikely that they would ever challenge him on it.
>>
>> In another post it was mentioned that there is no way to have an annual
>> condition inspection done on an airplane certified in the experimental
>> amateur built category unless you get a repairmans certificate for the
>> airplane.
>> This is incorrect.
>> The inspection can be done by a mechanic who has the repairmans cert.
>> issued for that particular airplane ( there are other repairmans
>> certificates that are issued for workers in overhaul shops etc.) or by an
>> FAA certified mechanic holding at least an A&P certificate.
>> This is usually mentioned in the aircrafts operating limitations and it
>> is mentioned in the FAR's but I don't have a copy at home so I can't
>> check
>> where.
>>
>> Before anyone flames me please keep in mind that I am only providing info
>> on how the FAA interprets the FAR's and how they look at the situation.
>> The regs are written to prevent someone from becoming an aircraft
>> manufacturer with out meeting the requirements that other manufacturers
>> have to (and for good reason). That is what FAR 23 and the new primary
>> category is for.
>>
>> BTW I am not personally against anyone working as a hired gun builder.
>> My only concern is to not have the regs changed and made more restrictive
>> for people following the regs. In the U.S. we enjoy the least
>> restrictive amateur built aircraft regs in the world and I would like it
>> to stay that way.
>>
>> Scott McDaniels
>> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Yes ONE of them can but only ONE. What do I win? AL
>
>Here's a hypothetical for you....
>
>20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
>Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
>Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate?
>
>Bob Urban
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hand grip points entering the RV6A?) |
{This windshield fairing thread is interesting to me. I am wondering if
I need to re-think my plans for this area. I have traveled to fly-ins
in Van's planes and done time in their booth, and was convinved, after
seeing what the average flat-lander could do to a nice aluminum fairing,
that a good thick fiberglass fairing would be the way to go.
What do y'all think? Would you have to build the
fiberglass up too much to provide a reasonable amount of strength to
guard against the errant grabber? I'd just as soon not have to hover
like a mother hen over every person who gets into the plane.}
Randall
I saw a neat idea at Oshkosh. The builder has welded grab handles similar to
the ones on my TCraft ( U type handles of 3/8 tubing near the tail) for help
in entering the cockpit. They were welded to the rollbar on the sliding canopy
frame. It seems like a good idea if head clearance and crash protection is not
a factor. I would be interested to know if other builders have used this idea
and if the welding on the roll bar would affect it strength.
Gary Palinkas, RV-6 (waiting for QB delivery)
Parma, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: building tip |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>between fuselage and main gear leg on my Pulsar. I went to Home Depot and
>bought a can of "Touch 'N Foam" polyurethane foam for $4 and sprayed it
Please be careful with this stuff - it is _very, very_ flammable. Try
getting a heat source next to it and watch how long it takes to catch
fire.
I have a friend who lost a van to a fire - he had used this stuff for
insulation (it works great for that too) all on the inside of the van
body. Heat plate got too close for too long and that insulation went up
pronto!
>really is handy and so inexpensive. Think I'll writeup a Builder's Tip
>article for Sport Aviation magazine.
>Bob H
If you do please include a safety comment. Experiment first! Tell folks
to be careful _where_ they use it - filling fairings would be OK I guess,
well away from the exhaust or the engine compartment. They need to be
made aware!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp in the spare bedroom, wings on the dock (I hope!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Unison electronic ignition |
> > > Unless the price of fuel goes up a dollar per gallon or so,
> > >the Lasar system never breaks even against the stock mags with impulse
> > >couplings. Yes, the Lasar system has a slight performance advantage up
> > >high and I *really* like high-tech toys but I couldn't justify it on the
> > >basis of cost. It gains you nothing down low at high power.
>
>
> Of course, everything else that we builders do is also based solely upon
> payback and practicality. :-)
of course. an airplane is cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate, and
gets you to your destination (door-to-door time) quicker than a car
or motorcycle every time. right?
i'm sure no one here would ever buy and use something simply because
1) they want it and 2) they can afford it. it must be practical, first.
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
>
>Here's a hypothetical for you....
>20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
>Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
>Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate?
>Bob Urban
Sure,
The faa issues these certs all the time for groups. It's
mentioned in the faa's homebuilders packet. It goes something like (
when a group builds it there will be one, and only one, repair cert,
issued to one, and only one, person in the group.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Bright polishing wheels |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
That reply was to my daughter. She got it, and I have no idea why it
posted on the list. I only sent the one message that day. She recieved
the message along with the message she sent me.
A puzzle, Cecil
writes:
>
>Cecil,
>As the father of an 8 1/2 Yr. old and user of Johns' wheels I was
>wondering
>what you meant by this comment? Please explain! AL
>
>
>>
>>I was wondering why there are more single parent homes in todays
>times.
>>Dad
>
>
>
>
>
>>writes:
>Fellow listers;
>I have Scotch Bright polishing wheels available at a great price. Just
>what is needed when building a metal airplane. Anyone that has
>polished
>with one knows how fast a smooth edge can be obtained. All the filing
>is
>gone. I made an adapter and put them on a 1/2 HP motor shaft. My
>wheels
>are in the original 3M boxes and are a full 12 inch diameter, 3 inches
>wide, and with a 5 inch bore. I am asking 30 dollars each plus
>shipping.
>Contact me off line if interested.
>>>John N721JK RV-4 280 hours Ohio <<
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
<< 20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate? >>
Since they are probably all armed these days, it would be the one left
standing.
;^)
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hand grip points entering the RV6A? |
<< I saw a neat idea at Oshkosh. The builder has welded grab handles similar
to
the ones on my TCraft ( U type handles of 3/8 tubing near the tail) for help
in entering the cockpit. They were welded to the rollbar on the sliding
canopy
frame. >>
I do a similiar thing to the windshield bows I sell for the Rockets: we bend a
pc of 1/4 rod available at most Home Depot type stores into a shape like a
drawer pull- about 4" wide. Drill two holes at each side of the windshield bow
where the pilot and pax can grab 'em easily. It is necessary to weld the
entrance hole only, as the curve of the tube keeps the back side located. See
Sept 97 Sport Aviation P49 for a pic of my bird, and how it's done. These
don't intrude into the room needed to get in & out at all, and best of all- no
one grabs the 'glass and stresses that part.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: building tip |
You can say that again..It IS VERY flamable...also I know a person who sprayed
it
all over the inside of his firewall on a ercoupe, and he had a cheery little fire
while in flight! He got it down ok, but cabin was two colors...black & brown.
jolly
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> In a previous message, it was written:
> >between fuselage and main gear leg on my Pulsar. I went to Home Depot and
> >bought a can of "Touch 'N Foam" polyurethane foam for $4 and sprayed it
>
> Please be careful with this stuff - it is _very, very_ flammable. Try
> getting a heat source next to it and watch how long it takes to catch
> fire.
> I have a friend who lost a van to a fire - he had used this stuff for
> insulation (it works great for that too) all on the inside of the van
> body. Heat plate got too close for too long and that insulation went up
> pronto!
>
> >really is handy and so inexpensive. Think I'll writeup a Builder's Tip
> >article for Sport Aviation magazine.
> >Bob H
>
> If you do please include a safety comment. Experiment first! Tell folks
> to be careful _where_ they use it - filling fairings would be OK I guess,
> well away from the exhaust or the engine compartment. They need to be
> made aware!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 emp in the spare bedroom, wings on the dock (I hope!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
<< Sure,
The faa issues these certs all the time for groups. It's
mentioned in the faa's homebuilders packet. It goes something like (
when a group builds it there will be one, and only one, repair cert,
issued to one, and only one, person in the group. >>
Hmmmmmmm......lessee here.....hypothetically, of course....I help Joe Bag-o-
donuts build his ship. We sign on as co-builders. Ol' Joe can legally get the
repairman cert? I'd say this solves the builder-for-hire quandry, as Ol' Joe
has actually helped build the thing by: specifying paint colors, interior
fabrics, designing the panel layout, supplying lotsa $$$, etc.
Not that I've actually DONE this, of course...
Check six!
Mark
HR2 301 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine preservation |
Hello engine storers:
If and when I intend to store any type of machinery or engines I first
evaluate the proposed storage area and its known ambiant conditions.
Is the area you I live in normaly dry, moderate, humid, or damp etc.?
If for instance I plan to store said equipment in my workshop area ( RV
lair) I look closely at the various tools and equipment that have spent some
years in the area, are they showing any evidence of corrosion or rust on or
inside?.
I Look into old bags, boxes, and or cans that I have stored nails, screws,
and various household hardware that as a rule is bare non painted or plateded.
Will I keep some heat in the area at all times?.
Will I be working in the area on a regular basis?
What steps Will I have to take to protect items in storage from the grit,
dust, and polution that arrises out of my work in the area.
IMHO. The Lycoming environmental packaging that costs extra is generally
intended for long term storage in unknown or somewhat hostile environments
such as wharehouses hangers etc.
If I find no instances of rust or corrosion on and in any areas of The shop,
I then look at the condition of whatever new arrivals. Is the item clean,
dry, free of any evidence of rust or corrosion in and out? If so and if all
the conditions are, or have been made favorable I will bag it, store it, and
inspect it regularly and get back to building.
I'm lucky in that I now live in a dry area and I'm building in an inhouse
used to be two car garage. It's insulated and heated with an electric
thermostaticly controled heater set to about sixty degrees. I previously
lived on the pacific coast and always had to deal with humidity at high
levels at home and in my automotive shop.
At night You could hear stuff in the neighborhood rusting.
Personaly I would only fill any machine or engine chuck full of oil and air
tight seal it for storage if the term of storage was expected to be in some
number of years or I expected not have control of it's storage environment,
or if I was legaly reguired to do so, or waranties etc.
happy building folks!
jim RV6-eh preping fuse parts. tanks done not tested.
When dreams come true the sky is the limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles young <charles(at)onramp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid vs. STEC or Single Avix vs. Double Axis Autopilot |
Well said. For the money, it is a good value. It does what a $1000 dollar A/P
should.
It is an economic opportunity decision, if you got the bucks, get the STEC.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vert fin offset |
>
>Listers, For what its worth on the original prototype RV-6 that we do
>flight training in, the rudder was offset about 1/4 of an inch but still
>took an awful lot of fixed tab to put the ball in the center at cruise
>power settings. Last winter we took it apart and offset the rudder
>nearly 1/2 inch and still needed almost the same amout of fixed tabs to
>put ball in the center. Im not sure why but it seems that offsetting the
>rudder had almost no effect. Ive seen several airplanes that actually
>had left rudder tabs to put the ball in the center.
Mike,
It is good to see you on the list. I hope you can contribute more often.
Few RVers have the hands on expertise that you have acquired and all of us
will be paying much attention to your posts (as we do to Scott Mc., Eustace
Bowhay, Gary VanR., etc.).
Now I have a question. I have always found myself less able than others to
recognize a coordinated turn by the seat of my pants. The ball has to be 2
diameters off for me to feel it. When I try to correct by *feel* only, the
pressure I put on the rudder pedal prevents me from feeling the true nature
of the skid or slip for which I am trying to correct. Am I alone in this?
This problem leads me to now ask: When you say you are trying to put the
ball into the middle, are you sure the *middle* is really a coordinated
state? Are you doing this by feel? If you keep the wings level, is the
aircraft turning?
I will be flying my newly acquired RV-4 tomorrow for the first time
(weather permitting), and expect to feel a new set of sensations in my
fanny vs. my old spamcan (but I love her dearly) Cessna. Perhaps the seat
configuration will help to improve my coordination deficiencies.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | RV Builder Assistance |
writes:
>
>Here's a hypothetical for you....
>
>20 kids build 100% of an RV-4 in high school shop classes.
>Each builds 5% of the aircraft.
>Can any of them LEGALLY lay claim the repairman's certificate?
>
>Bob Urban
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
and who's going to register it???
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator |
FWIW
Jim Huntington of Lift Reserve Indicator responded to me regarding my LRI
installation with more or less an offer: He said that if enough RV
builders got together and made a combined order that they would discount
the price...I personally think the LRI is worth its present retail price of
around $750 (Oshkosh special was $710) and my hesitation isn't that it is
not worth the money, its just the parting with $750 for ANYTHING is always
a pain to me....must have been some Scots in my background. Anyway, if
you're interested you can find the LRI people on the internet by searching
for Lift Reserve Indicator...their e-mail address is at the bottom of their
web page....incidentally, I have no connection or association with the
company...its just that I think they're on to something with this
instrument.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
Hello,
Guessing that the VM-1000 uses thermocouple wire to sense temperature:
This indicates an intermittent open thermocouple. I work with computer
research instrumentation and when you have an open Tcouple, the computer
(that is what a VM-1000 is ) will read ambient temperature which, come to
think of it, is the cold junction reference temperature.
I would check the connections at both ends of the Tcouple. Thermocouple
wire is solid thus susceptible to breaking from fatigue, especially where
the shield has been stripped away at the instrument connection end.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, Idaho USA
At 10:09 PM 98.11.05 , you wrote:
>
>Listers:
>
>On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my VM-1000
>engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures. It was
>indicating between 45 and 65 deg. F for the climb out and much of the
>flight. At times, however, it did indicate 165 to 170 deg. F. I believe
>the 170 deg. reading, but I don't believe the 65 deg. OAT was around 0 deg.
>C. My oil cooler is currently "winterized". (The oil cooler inlet is
>covered with a plate that has a 3/4" dia. hole in it.)
>
>I would appreciate any suggestions on how I might trouble shoot this problem.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Mark Nielsen
>Green Bay, WI
>RV-6, 295 hrs.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Gauge |
>
writes:
>
> On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my VM-1000
> engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures.
>
>Check the connections first and make sure that all are clean and tight.
>Thermocouples usually work correctly or they don't work at all.
Most oil temp guages (any guage that works below about 125 degrees C for
that matter) are resistive sensors, e.g. thermistors, rather than
thermocouples. In aircraft the only thermocouple sensors you are liable to
run into are CHT, EGT, and TIT.
>Warm up the engine and then shut it all down. Turn on the VM and see what
>temp you are reading. Have someone watch the gauge for a change while you
>move the wiring around to see if you have a break in the wiring. If that
>doesn't work, get VM to send a new sender.
Most resistive type guages have a known temperature-to-resistance curve.
You can use an ohmmeter to then determine the temperature at the sensor
independent of the other aircraft wiring. This will allow you to test the
sensor separate from the indicator if you are so inclined.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid vs. STEC or Single Avix vs. Double Axis Autopilot |
>Why is everybody knocking the navaid a/p?
>Bill Mahoney
Bill,
I haven't interpreted any of the responses to my original question as
"knocking" Navaid but rather discussing its limitations. Over the years I
have heard a lot of good things about Navaids which is why I was planning on
putting one in my 6A. I have also heard over these same years many comments
from people who have had difficulty using them. There was a thread which
addressed some of the installation and calibration issues which may
influence this. I have assumed exactly what you have stated, "It is a great
inexpensive system
that works really well, provided it is installed correctly." I still
believe this is true.
The question I raised was about the benefits of going to a two axis system
(STEC 30 or 50). As a single pilot task reliever, it seems that holding a
steady altitude in an RV while looking at charts etc. is very difficult. If
your flying allows your altitude to vary +- 300 feet, then the altitude hold
is superfluous.
I believe it is good to discuss the benefits and limitations of all these
expensive pieces of equipment we are putting in our planes. In this way,
they will continue to improve way beyond production aircraft.
Ross Mickey
Canopy Fiberglass 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
<<< Sure,
The faa issues these certs all the time for groups. It's
mentioned in the faa's homebuilders packet. It goes something like (
when a group builds it there will be one, and only one, repair cert,
issued to one, and only one, person in the group. >>>
<>
All jokes aside, it's been done near here several times. A local hired
someone to build his airplanes as a full time employee. They both
sign the paperwork to get around any problems with the Feds. The
airplanes actually belong to the money provider, not the builder. If
you've been an EAA member over the last few years, you would
have seen one of his prized creations in Sport Aviation as one of the
top dog winners at Sun-n-Fun. Now, I've heard that the owner did
put some time into it; but, how much do you think he did if he was out
making big bucks during the hours the real builder was working. :-)
Then, we have another local who has an aerobatic airplane that I'm
sure he has the repairman's certificate on, even though it was
professionally built way up north! We're even beginning to question
his first project that he said he built. Hmmm.......
Well, I can truthfully tell you that I'm building mine. It shows. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Building the hard way, by pulling out a lot of hair.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison electronic ignition |
>
>
>i'm sure no one here would ever buy and use something simply because
>1) they want it and 2) they can afford it. it must be practical, first.
Yeah, right. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
The repairman's certificate is nice but not at all critical. I did not
build my RV-4 so I do not have the repairman's certificate but I still do
[almost] all the maintenance on the aircraft. It just means that, every
year, I have to get one of my A&P friends to look the airplane over and
verify that my maintenance has been reasonable and proper. Showing them
what I do and have done is usually sufficient to convince them to sign the
aircraft's logbooks.
So the safest thing a person can do is to let the builder state that he/she
is the builder and that they get the repairman's certificate for that
airplane. The builder then sells it to the buyer, usually after the
aircraft has flown off the initial fly-off period. The buyer doesn't get
the repairman's certificate but, as I indicated above, that *really*
doesn't matter that much.
And it is *MUCH* better than perjuring yourself.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison electronic ignition |
>> > Unless the price of fuel goes up a dollar per gallon or so,
>> >the Lasar system never breaks even against the stock mags with impulse
>
>Of course, everything else that we builders do is also based solely upon
>payback and practicality. :-)
Of course not! The point I was making is that, where I usually fly my
RV-4, down low and at relatively high power settings, the Lasar system
doesn't help me at all. If you fly high and cross-country most of the
time, it makes a lot more sense.
When it comes to airplanes, I believe in the KISS principle. If it ain't
there it can't break. The Lasar system has the worst of both worlds:
mechanical mags AND microprocessor circuitry. Is the MTBF of the Lasar
system lower than for a pair of standard mags. My guess is that it isn't.
On the other hand, something like the Lightspeed system appeals to me
because I don't have the extra cruft so I would expect the MTBF of the
total system, one mag plus the Lightspeed ignition, to be lower than than
of two mags. If I were building an experimental amateur-built aircraft I
would seriously consider the latter over the Unison Lasar system since the
price for one mag plus Lightspeed system is lower than the price for the
Lasar system, AND the total ignition system MTBF is likely to be lower as
well.
Disclaimer: I am making assumptions here without verifying them so you
milage will almost certainly vary. Someone with direct experience with the
Lightspeed system should chime in here, preferably with Lightspeed's MTBF
numbers. Hopefully Unison also has MTBF numbers for their Lasar system so
we could make a real comparison.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builder Assistance |
Brian,
Doesn't your maintenance during the year need to be signed by an A&P at
least?
Bob
RV8#423
From: Brian Lloyd [mailto:brian(at)lloyd.com]
Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
The repairman's certificate is nice but not at all critical. I did not
build my RV-4 so I do not have the repairman's certificate but I still do
[almost] all the maintenance on the aircraft. It just means that, every
year, I have to get one of my A&P friends to look the airplane over and
verify that my maintenance has been reasonable and proper. Showing them
what I do and have done is usually sufficient to convince them to sign the
aircraft's logbooks.
So the safest thing a person can do is to let the builder state that he/she
is the builder and that they get the repairman's certificate for that
airplane. The builder then sells it to the buyer, usually after the
aircraft has flown off the initial fly-off period. The buyer doesn't get
the repairman's certificate but, as I indicated above, that *really*
doesn't matter that much.
And it is *MUCH* better than perjuring yourself.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | WHAT MORE PROOF DO YOU NEED? |
Listers,
What more proof do you need that Matt NEEDS these contributions to pay
for list upgrades! Have you seen the YAK flight photos that Matt posted a
couple of days ago? Come on guys (and Gals) , Matt doesn't even have enough
money left for a haircut after he spent it all on those recent upgrades
for US! Jeez.......we gotta help this guy. I see he WAS able to buy food,
but that trip to the barber is WAY overdue! ;-)
SOOOOOO..... if you think that Matt needs some reimbursement to get
that much needed haircut, then lets get that contribution in NOW!
Credit Card contributions can be made at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or send a check to: Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
I know I'll sleep better when I know Matt has been taken care of. I'm sure
you will too! Send in that contribution TODAY! Now get back to
work !..........AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
Mark:
Vince Himsl is probably right. An airplane I rent has a similar
problem with its conventional oil temperature gauge. In that
case, it reads 20 degrees high (we think) whenever the nav
lights are on! It appears to be voltage difference between
where the sensor is grounded and the instrument ground bus.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
[-6 tail]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Erratic Oil Temperature Gauge Bad advise |
Sorry Wrong Info again!!!
Most temperature sending units are NOT!! resistive and putting a ohm meter
will not tell you a thing!! Most Temperature sensors have a solid state
circuit that generates a current based on temperature independant of input
voltage. The Rocky Mountain Units use a Analog Devises AD590 Two Terminal IC
Temperature Transducer. If I were you I would give Vision Micro a call.
Rob Hickman
RV4 N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vert fin offset |
<< Mike,
It is good to see you on the list. I hope you can contribute more often.
Few RVers have the hands on expertise that you have acquired and all of us
will be paying much attention to your posts (as we do to Scott Mc., Eustace
Bowhay, Gary VanR., etc.).
Now I have a question. I have always found myself less able than others to
recognize a coordinated turn by the seat of my pants. The ball has to be 2
diameters off for me to feel it. When I try to correct by *feel* only, the
pressure I put on the rudder pedal prevents me from feeling the true nature
of the skid or slip for which I am trying to correct. Am I alone in this?
This problem leads me to now ask: When you say you are trying to put the
ball into the middle, are you sure the *middle* is really a coordinated
state? Are you doing this by feel? >>
Let me assure you that, having flown with Mike in the Blue 6, he IS doing it
by feel, and his feel is EXACTLY in agreement with the slip/skid. It is so
uncanny as to give you the willies when Mike says, without looking, "I believe
you need a tad more right rudder." and there's the ball, less than 1/2
diameter to the right. "How do you DO that?!" "Lots of experience," comes
the reply.
Like you, I can't feel it unless it's way out. I've tried the old addage of
"step on your head to center the ball," but I must not have a loose enough
neck or something to use my head as a slip/skid pendulum. Perhaps my skull is
too thick to respond to the unbalanced forces, or maybe it makes its own local
gravity...
It would be a wonderful skill to have, and perhaps if I was disciplined rather
than sloppy when up in the RV just boring holes in the sky, I could overcome
some long-ingrained unawareness of what the the seat of my pants is trying to
tell me.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Gauge Bad advise |
>
>Sorry Wrong Info again!!!
I recommend against being quite so vehement in your replies.
>Most temperature sending units are NOT!! resistive and putting a ohm meter
>will not tell you a thing!!
Well, most non-thermocouple temperature senders with which I have had
experience in the past and the ones on *all* my airplanes, including the
ones that come with the AFA AV-10 I have in my RV-4, ARE resistive and may
be tested using an ohmmeter.
>Most Temperature sensors have a solid state
>circuit that generates a current based on temperature independant of input
>voltage. The Rocky Mountain Units use a Analog Devises AD590 Two
Terminal IC
>Temperature Transducer.
You are correct in stating that SOME companies use monolythic solid-state
temperature senders but, in my experience, they are the exception rather
than the rule. Testing these with an ohmmeter may not get you a valid
indication but if they are, as you say, temperature-dependent current
sources, a source of voltage and a milliammeter will suffice to test such a
device.
>If I were you I would give Vision Micro a call.
That is sound advice. It is a good idea to know what type of device you
are dealing with.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Springs |
Just an update on the return springs for the Cleveland master cylinders. I
returned my springs to Vans and got a new pair. My old springs were 3 3/4 "
long. They were quite easy to compress with one hand when I removed them.
The new ones were a bit over 4" long and I had a very hard time getting them
back on due to their stiffness. I can not tell you if the new ones were
needed as I am still building but what I can tell you the new ones are MUCH
stiffer and return the cylinder more decisively.
Ross Mickey
6A Canopy Fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vert fin offset |
snip
>Now I have a question. I have always found myself less able than others to
>recognize a coordinated turn by the seat of my pants. The ball has to be 2
>diameters off for me to feel it. When I try to correct by *feel* only, the
>pressure I put on the rudder pedal prevents me from feeling the true nature
>of the skid or slip for which I am trying to correct. Am I alone in this?
snip
>I will be flying my newly acquired RV-4 tomorrow for the first time
>(weather permitting), and expect to feel a new set of sensations in my
>fanny vs. my old spamcan (but I love her dearly) Cessna. Perhaps the seat
>configuration will help to improve my coordination deficiencies.
>
>Louis
Don't it really P*** you off to ride with people like that? There are 1000s
of flyers and a few "pilots." Those who hold altitude within a needle
width, the ball looks like it is set in epoxy, their heading never wanders,
and the localizer needle looks like it is turned off. I know not where that
skill cometh from for I haveth it not! I can only wish. This I can tell
you, it is not all a function of experience because I gave multi-engine and
T/W training to a 200 hour 18 yr old girl who is "one of those."
For the rest of us with work, experience, enuf bashing our head against the
concrete and always striving to get better, slowly we learn. Slowly we get
better. If we persist, it will come to even the slowest of us. In 1984 a
customer of mine had a T-6 for sale for $35,000. I did not buy it because my
primary instructor told me I had dead feet and would never survive in a T/W
airplane. It took nearly 10 years to stumble in to a second opinion.
That T-6 is for sale today for $125,000.
As for your first flight, "Godspeed Lou Willig!"
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
Your using SOLID wire?????
In a high vibration environment stranded T/C wire is the way to go.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Erratic Oil Temperature Guage
Date: 06-11-98 09:55
Hello,
Guessing that the VM-1000 uses thermocouple wire to sense temperature:
This indicates an intermittent open thermocouple. I work with computer
research instrumentation and when you have an open Tcouple, the computer
(that is what a VM-1000 is ) will read ambient temperature which, come to
think of it, is the cold junction reference temperature.
I would check the connections at both ends of the Tcouple. Thermocouple
wire is solid thus susceptible to breaking from fatigue, especially where
the shield has been stripped away at the instrument connection end.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, Idaho USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Brown <kbrown(at)STELLCOM.com> |
| Subject: | Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
> <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
>
> Listers:
>
> On a cross-country flight today, the oil temperature indicator on my
> VM-1000
> engine monitor was indicating abnormally low temperatures. It was
> indicating between 45 and 65 deg. F for the climb out and much of the
> flight. At times, however, it did indicate 165 to 170 deg. F. I
> believe
> the 170 deg. reading, but I don't believe the 65 deg. OAT was around
> 0 deg.
> C. My oil cooler is currently "winterized". (The oil cooler inlet is
> covered with a plate that has a 3/4" dia. hole in it.)
>
> I would appreciate any suggestions on how I might trouble shoot this
> problem.
>
Could it be that the hundreds digit on the display is intermittent?
Maybe there's nothing wrong with the temp sensor at all.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: WHAT MORE PROOF DO YOU NEED? |
In a message dated 11/6/98 11:25:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
prober(at)iwaynet.net writes:
<< I see he WAS able to buy food,
but that trip to the barber is WAY overdue! ;-) >>
Hey
Maybe Matt is just getting like Howard Hughes. I heard that Howard let his
hair grow in the last days.(only kidding)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Gauge Bad advise |
In a message dated 11/6/98 12:52:41 PM Pacific Standard Time, brian(at)lloyd.com
writes:
<< I recommend against being quite so vehement in your replies. >>
Can't we just all get along????? hehe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: AirBox Installation |
> While I am doing the engine plumbing, etc. I would like to go ahead and
> install the FAB-360 airbox unit. Is there any problem with doing this
> before I have started the cowling installation? I have the new epoxy
> cowling which already has the scoop molded in.
You need to orient the airbox to match the scoop. I don't know
about the -8, but on the -6 it would be blind luck to get this
oriented right without having the cowl on there.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
> Doesn't your maintenance during the year need to be signed by an A&P
>at
>least?
>
>Bob
>RV8#423
>
>
I have posted about this before, but since it is a subject that is often
is misunderstood I will again.
With the way the FAR's are currently written, the only logbook entry for
an aircraft with an experimental amateur built airworthiness cert. that
requires a certified mechanic (Repairman A&P) is the annual condition
inspection.
Legally an owner that did not build an RV could repair a damaged wing and
sign it off in the log book as airworthy and approved for return to
service. This would probably not be a sensible thing to do, but it would
be legal.
I know this seems rather odd considering the regulatory environment that
we seem to be in nowadays, but if the FAA is willing to have the regs
written that way I am not complaining.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler in RV-8 |
>
>I had a look through the archives, but there wasn't much RV-8
>specific info, except for a post from Scott McDaniels suggesting to
>connect the wing leveler to the WD-807 control column weldment. If I
>did that, where would the servo mount? In the fuselage, or in the
>inboard wing with a long pushrod?
>
>Thanks for your wisdom.
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings)
>
-
Kevin,
If I were doing it my self I would put it in the fuselage under the floor
just aft of the left rear seat foot well.
It would install right behind where the aileron trim mechanism would be.
It would require cutting a narrow slot in the F-814 floor rib for an
interconnect rod between the servo and the WD-807. You would also need
to weld a spall tab on the bottom of the WD-807 to attach the push rod
to.
If you didn't want to have screw heads sticking out on the out side of
the fuselage belly you could make a small rectangular rib to fit between
the F-814 and the F-815 floor ribs to mount the servo to.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Listers,
Do not forget that the DAR of FAA rep can
ask for proof that you built your (?) aircraft!
Like where are your Pictures and Builders
log?? There was an advisory circular or two
put out on this. Sure, people get away with
it all the time but with the New FAA and there
NPRNs, they are bound to crack down someday!
We have the best and most liberal experimental
A/C program in the world. Why do people jepordize it??
Stew. RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump/gascolator position |
I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
the gascolator. To do this I will have to mount the boost pump on the
firewall of my RV6. Has anyone done this, can the fuel boost pump draw
fuel from the tank when in the three point attitude, it will probable
have a lift of approx 20 inchess worst case?
Peter (RV6 Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
> I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
> will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
> the gascolator. To do this I will have to mount the boost pump on the
> firewall of my RV6.
An option would be to put the gascolator in the wing root area (between
the fuselage and the wing). There was an article about this in the
RVator a while back. I did it and it came out nice, although I also
relocated my boost pump to underneath the fuel selector so it's still
upstream the gascolator.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Scott,
Are you sure about this???? A builder gets the repairmans certificate
which entitles him to do preventitive and major repairs on that one a/c
only. If this person wishes to maintain the lycoming as a certificated
engine all ADs ect. must be complied with. These have to be accp.
by an appropriately rated person which is an A and P. Why if you put a
wood prop on an engine that was never approved with it, it is no longer
a certificated eng. As you will find out after this hits the list, there are
alot of
misunderstood FARs. I do not believe an owner who is not the builder may
acp any repairs what so ever. Leagaly that is! One must remember that
if you have an accident and there are any discrepancies in the logs or
illegal maintenance performed, your insurance will be null and void.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
Peter,
If you really want to do this, It will work. I am using fuel injection
and have the elect. pump mounted forward of the firewall.
If you are using a carb, 3-5 psi a standard gascolater will work.
Or you can use an Andair unit that will handle a lot more pressure.
Stew RV4 203hr Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Awhile back there was an individual that said he had set his spar rivets with
a shop press. If you are still on the list, could you contact me directly??
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
JNice51355(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
Peter,
I have not installed the boost pump on the firewall but I am installing
the gascolator upstream of it. i am installing the gascolator in the
space between the wing and the fuselage. This will keep it out of the
heat, filter any crap before the selector switch and pump, not
pressurize the gascolator, and get the bottom of the gascolator near the
lowest point on my -6. I am seriously considering spending more money
and get two gascolators, one for each side. If one fails, I would just
have to switch tanks and be good to go.
Rick Caldwell RV-6 gear fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> > I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
> An option would be to put the gascolator in the wing root area (between
> the fuselage and the wing).
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>
Thanks for the response Randall. Actually my friend in the next hanger installed
both the gascolator and fuel pumps (yes two) in the wing root area with good
results. However I would like to use the new gascolator (GAS-3) as shown in the
recent RVATOR. Unfortunately this unit is two large to fit in the root area (3
1/2
inches deep)
Regards Peter (Toronto Canada)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
> If this person wishes to maintain the lycoming as a certificated
> engine all ADs ect. must be complied with. These have to be accp.
> by an appropriately rated person which is an A and P.
Hate to muddy the waters, but my FAA inspector specifically said I was allowed
to work on my (still certified) overhauled Lycoming while holding only my
Repairman Certificate. My A&P took some offense at this statement, called the
FAA guy himself to check out my accuracy, and was told the same thing. Now, I
think we will all agree, that is one _friendly_ Fed!
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
ANY one can legally do maintenance on an experimental, even your eight year
old son. You, with a repairman's certificate have to do a "conditional:
inspection once a year. If you aren't a certified repairman, then you have
to get an A&P to do the conditional inspection and sign it off. I suppose
that the work is signed off once a year in this manner.
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>
>
>> Doesn't your maintenance during the year need to be signed by an A&P
>>at
>>least?
>>
>>Bob
>>RV8#423
>>
>>
>I have posted about this before, but since it is a subject that is often
>is misunderstood I will again.
>
>With the way the FAR's are currently written, the only logbook entry for
>an aircraft with an experimental amateur built airworthiness cert. that
>requires a certified mechanic (Repairman A&P) is the annual condition
>inspection.
>Legally an owner that did not build an RV could repair a damaged wing and
>sign it off in the log book as airworthy and approved for return to
>service. This would probably not be a sensible thing to do, but it would
>be legal.
>I know this seems rather odd considering the regulatory environment that
>we seem to be in nowadays, but if the FAA is willing to have the regs
>written that way I am not complaining.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
In my limited knowledge, it is done the other way around. You want to
pressurize the gascolator so you can tell by looking if it is leaking. You
can't see air being sucked in but you can see the gas leaking out. You are
also forcing gas through the screens and filter not trying to suck gas
through if the engine pump can't over come a partial plug.
My certified Bellanca uses an diaphragm pump as a boost pump before the
gascolator and has worked fine for over 50 years. As part of my pre-flight,
I always bring up the pressure so I can check for leaks. If your pressure
gage fluctuates, it is because the engine fuel pump is sucking air.
But the answer to your question, since the engine driven pump will draw fuel
from your tanks, so will your boost pump. Pressurizing before starting
besides checking for leaks makes the start quicker, less draw from the
battery.
From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 8:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel pump/gascolator position
>
>I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
>will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
>the gascolator. To do this I will have to mount the boost pump on the
>firewall of my RV6. Has anyone done this, can the fuel boost pump draw
>fuel from the tank when in the three point attitude, it will probable
>have a lift of approx 20 inchess worst case?
>
>Peter (RV6 Toronto)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | RV as Social Animal |
What a great day this was ! Morning broke as a fiery red band of dawn,
signaling a great day to fly. Cold, crisp winter-like air which had me
lift off in a twinkling. Climbs pretty quick too, especially on light
tanks. 170 showing. Smoke in the hills rises straight up. No wind to speak
of. The landscape is dotted with paint brush patches of yellow and blazing
red before the frost takes its' toll. I follow a road which disappears
into the forest and I bank around hard to see what else is worth shooting
up.
I see a Cessna about 1000 ft below and two miles off and I'm very
pleased to see how fast the RV gains on him without any urging from me.
Poor old Cessna looks tired and laboring. I won't harass him. A light touch
to starboard and RV races off with the bit in her teeth going nowhere in
particular.
Hardly a cloud anywhere and cabin heat is keeping me as toasty as my
living room. I are a fighter pilot..I think a roll is in order. ..Following
that display of gay abandon, it is only fitting to follow up with a loop or
two.
What a hell of a place to be ! I did not have to phone 8 days in advance to
reserve this magic carpet, didn't need to get checked out for not flying
for the last 30 days. And didn't need to be told to bring it back in 55
minutes.
Freedom abounds. Damn ! I love this airplane ! It doesn't know how old I
am and doesn't much care.
I best not keep banking too steeply this way 'ere my fan quit from fuel
being at far end.
Round and round and about with a last fast pass at the cows and I call
to return.....Another straight in and another squeaker.
I am now getting better at landing with the sun in the eyes and the
flicker of the rays through the blades making this last bit of aviating a
challenge.
I'll accept this challenge because the reward is worth the test. To fly an
RV.
Hate to quit so soon, but the sunlight fades quickly now this far North.
One last thing. No, two. Over at the gas pump while RV waits in the last
of the sun for a drink, two old fliers wander over, drool a little, and ask
lots of things about this beautiful little thoroughbred. We can't stop
talking.
Rides are offered and we are new found friends..
I must admit that standing from afar and drinking in the profile of this
little speed-ball is a happy experience in itself. What is the greater
wonder ?
The fact that she looks so great ? Or that fact that I built it ? Does it
matter ?
Back at the hangar, the second thing, there happens to be no less
than 4 RV guys all came by for a happenstance visit. One building a Rocket,
one an 8, one a 6, another a 6A. I only know one, but because of the RV
social atmosphere, a great camaraderie of RV guys prevails. What a great
day. I hurry home to see if I still know how to use a rivet gun. This much
fun is certainly worth repeating...
I saw a great coffee table book of airplanes in the bookstore for $50.
Lots of color photos and cockpit shots. I liked it a lot,.... but spent the
$50 on Avgas. I liked that adventure much better.
Later, when darkness falls and RV sleeps,....
Morpheous can claim me also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
Bill,
I knew this subject would get alot of disagreements!
You were told you could work on your Lycoming.
That is in fact true. Did you ask specificaly what work
you can do??? Can you overhaul it and put it back in
service so that it could be installed in a Cessna?
Can you top overhaul it? If you do major work on it
it has to be inspected and if necessary be torn down
to be recertified to be put in a Cessna. AD compliance
would have to be verified by a means necessary to insure
compliance. Sure you can change oil, sparkplugs ect.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
Somewhat related to this thread and perhaps helpful to some...
I am building a 6A with Airflow FI. I did not want to mount the rather
large boost pump on the left side of the cockpit near my left knee, so I
mounted it instead on the forward side of the main spar, just to the left
of the selector valve. I used -30 cushion clamps to mount the pump to
vertical angles, which in turn are fastened under the spar bolts.
Modification to the standard Van's selector valve housing parts was needed,
specifically, I widened the distance at the top of the two sheet metal
angles which bolt to the spar. If there is any interest for additional
details, send me an email and I'll figure out some way to communicate the
idea better than I just did.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN alexpeterson(at)cwix.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic Oil Temperature Guage |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Mark,
The easiest thing to check and also the most likely cause of the problem
is a loose wire where the transducer wire connects to the computer. I had
a similar problem on mine except it was oil pressure instead of
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV as Social Animal |
Welcome back!
>
>What a great day this was ! Morning broke as a fiery red band of dawn,
>signaling a great day to fly. (Snip)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Compass location |
Listers,
I've seen compasses both in the panel and on the glareshield. Clearly going
on the glareshield minimizes magnetic interference and yields a more
accurate reading. I'd prefer however to locate my Garmin Pilot III on the
glareshield and put a conventional whiskey compas in the panel. Have many of
you done that, and have you run into problems or been ok?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL reserved
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
72-73,75-78,80,83-84,88-89,91-97
>
>Scott,
> Are you sure about this????
-
Absolutely.
Look in the FAR's. The only requirement that I have ever seen for a
certified mechanic (Repairman or A&P) is to sign of the annual condition
inspection.
-
A builder gets the repairmans certificate
>which entitles him to do preventitive and major repairs on that one
>a/c
>only.
-
No it enables him to sign off the condition inspection.
-
If this person wishes to maintain the lycoming as a certificated
>engine all ADs ect. must be complied with. These have to be accp.
>by an appropriately rated person which is an A and P.
-
This is true, but we weren't discussing what was required to keep a
certified engine in certified status (which from my experience isn't done
by very many RV owners). I was just talking about keeping the airplane
certified for flight.
Why if you put a
>
>wood prop on an engine that was never approved with it, it is no
>longer
>a certificated eng. As you will find out after this hits the list,
>there are
>alot of
>misunderstood FARs. I do not believe an owner who is not the builder
>may
>acp any repairs what so ever. Leagaly that is!
-
If I had the time I would research the FAR's for you but right now I
don't.
You could call the EAA and ask them.
About 2 years ago their was an excellent article published by them on
this very subject. The unfortunate thing is that it only ran in the
Experimenter which means that a lot fewer people saw it than would have
if it ran in Sport Aviation. I will try to find the copy in our library
at work)
-
One must remember that
>if you have an accident and there are any discrepancies in the logs or
>illegal maintenance performed, your insurance will be null and void.
>
>
This is true, but as long is a properly rated person has completed the
condition inspection and signed off saying so then you are legal.
Without getting into a long winded post I will refer you to FAR Part 43
FAR part 43 is titled Maintenance, Preventive Maintenance, Rebuilding,
and Alteration.
FAR43.1 sub part b (the very first paragraph of FAR Part 43) says...
"This part (Part 43) does not apply to any aircraft for which an
experimental airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a
different kind of airworthiness certificate had previously been issued
for that aircraft."
As you can see everything in part 43 that regulates the repair and
service of certified aircraft does not apply to homebuilts... almost.
All amateur built aircraft operating limitations that I have ever seen,
have an instruction that requires the annual condition inspection to be
signed off with a statement of "I certify that I have inspected this
aircraft in accordance with the scope of FAR 43 appendix D and found it
to be in airworthy condition."
Appendix D is a list of items to be completed in a Annual or 100 hr.
inspection.
The reason for this statement is that since you aren't regulated by FAR
Part 43 for your inspection the are directing you to use the checklist
(it is also in A.C. 43.13) as the required guide line for your
inspection.
Not because it is required by FAR Part 43 (which you are not governed
by), but by the requirement written in your operating limitations (which
you are governed by).
Like I said before... It doesn't sound like something the FAA would give
us home builders, but I for one am going to receive it thankfully and
then keep my mouth shut. Opps, hope know one from the FAA monitors this
list.
Sorry about the long post, and I will try to find the article I
mentioned.
It explained it far better than I ever could.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
>
>I've seen compasses both in the panel and on the glareshield. Clearly
>going
>on the glareshield minimizes magnetic interference and yields a more
>accurate reading. I'd prefer however to locate my Garmin Pilot III on
>the
>glareshield and put a conventional whiskey compas in the panel. Have
>many of
>you done that, and have you run into problems or been ok?
>
>
Randy,
This has to answered with... It depends.
How well it works in the panel is very dependant on what else is in the
panel with it, and how close some of those items are.
I cant really give you an absolute list of things to keep it away from
(I do know that electric analog clocks are a big problem...don't ask)
the safest thing to do would decide on and purchase all of the equipment
that you plan to use. Then put the compass by it (apply power to the
device if it needs it) and see what happens.
I had the compass mounted in the panel on my RV-6A and the worst
Variation I has was about 2 deg. on E and W (which is the hardest to
compensate out compared to N and S).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
I had the compass mounted in the panel on my RV-6A and the worst
Variation I has was about 2 deg. on E and W (which is the hardest to
compensate out compared to N and S).
In my previous post I said variation... I meant "Deviation".
It's late, I need to go to bed.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elevator Technicians Inc." <elevator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV3 project for sale |
Pass the word
RV3 project for sale
Excellent craftsmanship throughout
75% completion
Pacesetter 200 prop
full dash with FAA yellow tag equipment, loran, radio, etc.
JPEG pictures are available upon individual request
Too many extra to list
a steal at $8.5K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Compass location |
Analogue VOR and ILS indicators have similar effects (I had to shift mine in my
Cherokee as it was interfering with the compass mounted on the windscreen
strut). The units in question were King Silver series units mounted 200mm below
the compass. Shifting the indicators to the second radio rack cleared the
problem
(I do know that electric analog clocks are a big problem...don't ask)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angle for the tie down support (RV8) |
> Hi listers,
I am trying to locate the T6 3/4x3/4support angle that is needed for the tie
downs.I have found a piece 17 inches long but it is too short for both
wings........anyone got any ideas on which length piece i should be looking for
in
the kit. It seems to be the only piece that comes close to what i need.
Peter Winter
Victoria, Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: centering the ball (was Vert fin offset) |
Hi folks,
My feeling is that the airplane can help you hold things in coordination
too. I have the same problem as the original poster when flying Cessnas.
There isn't much adverse yaw when making shallow banks or entering a turn
with a shallow bank. The adverse yaw creeps up on you as the turn becomes
established or the bank angle increases. I flew a Piper Cub once (there
aren't many around here and nobody has insurance that allows for instruction
in one) and I found that I had absolutely no trouble keeping it coordinated.
In fact it was a delight to fly because the plane needed rudder RIGHT NOW as
soon as the wings were banked. It was easy to fly and the rudder had a
great feel. I don't think it was the fact that I was sitting on the center
line of the airplane, because I also got to fly a Citabria once and did not
have the same sensation of being uncoordinated without looking at the
instruments.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Fitting cabin frame to the RV-6A in the shop and watching it snow
>Now I have a question. I have always found myself less able
than others to
>recognize a coordinated turn by the seat of my pants. The
ball has to be 2
>diameters off for me to feel it. When I try to correct by
*feel* only, the
>pressure I put on the rudder pedal prevents me from feeling
the true nature
>of the skid or slip for which I am trying to correct. Am I
alone in this?
snip
I know not where that
skill cometh from for I haveth it not! I can only wish.
This I can tell
you, it is not all a function of experience because I gave
multi-engine and
T/W training to a 200 hour 18 yr old girl who is "one of
those."
head against the
concrete and always striving to get better, slowly we learn.
________________________________________________________________________________
<19981024.195120.9526.0.SMcDaniels(at)juno.com>
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle for the tie down support (RV8) |
>
> > Hi listers,
>
> I am trying to locate the T6 3/4x3/4support angle that is needed for the tie
> downs.I have found a piece 17 inches long but it is too short for both
> wings........anyone got any ideas on which length piece i should be
>looking for in
> the kit. It seems to be the only piece that comes close to what i need.
>
> Peter Winter
> Victoria, Australia.
>
Peter,
I cut them off one of the 12 foot pieces. Just don't touch the 15
foot pieces as they are for the fuselage.
Mind you, I haven't finished my wings yet, so this advice is worth
what you paid for it.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
>
>I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
>will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
>the gascolator.
**What I decided to do so as to be able to preflight the filter condition
is to mount a clear glass filter on each line before the selector. It
allows seperate sorces in case any clogging probem, unless of course both
tank have the same problem. I am then back to square one. Some feel this
is an over kill, and they might be right....99.9% of the time. I decided
for my installation this also reduced vapor lock potenial areas.
As I see it every fuel system has a trade off of pluses and minuses. I
pondered this fuel system from the get go. And I do not think that is the
only way to go, but so far it seems to satisfy some problems and create
others.
A Good Day To You!
Denny RV-6 Near done!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G or M" <gcomfort(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
-Subject: RV-List: Fuel pump/gascolator position
>
>I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
>will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
>the gascolator. To do this I will have to mount the boost pump on the
Peter: I have an arrangement such as you describe except that instead of a
gascolator I have a filter that used to be sold by Ellison. The pump works
fine as a draw through. I did provide a blast tube to cool the pump. It
may be that not all gascolators are created equal. Ellison claimed that
they should not be pressurized unless there was a good quality regulator in
the system and that the pulse pump we use is not a reliable regulator. It
is this possible overpressure that they were seeking to avoid.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
The article on Amateur-Built Maintenance by Earl Lawrence was published in
the April '96 EAA Chapter newsletter. As I re-published it in the August
'96 Landings, the newsletter of Chapter 75, I might be able to attach a copy
later this week.
The last paragraph sums most of it up..
"Let me clarify this. Anyone can work on an experimental aircraft and sign
off the work. How ever, the annual "condition" inspection must be completed
by an A&P or Repairman."
Earl is the EAA government programs person. He is also an A&P.
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>
>
>>
>>Scott,
>> Are you sure about this????
>-
>Absolutely.
>Look in the FAR's. The only requirement that I have ever seen for a
>certified mechanic (Repairman or A&P) is to sign of the annual condition
>inspection.
>-
> A builder gets the repairmans certificate
>>which entitles him to do preventitive and major repairs on that one
>>a/c
>>only.
>-
>No it enables him to sign off the condition inspection.
>-
> If this person wishes to maintain the lycoming as a certificated
>>engine all ADs ect. must be complied with. These have to be accp.
>>by an appropriately rated person which is an A and P.
>-
>This is true, but we weren't discussing what was required to keep a
>certified engine in certified status (which from my experience isn't done
>by very many RV owners). I was just talking about keeping the airplane
>certified for flight.
>
>Why if you put a
>>
>>wood prop on an engine that was never approved with it, it is no
>>longer
>>a certificated eng. As you will find out after this hits the list,
>>there are
>>alot of
>>misunderstood FARs. I do not believe an owner who is not the builder
>>may
>>acp any repairs what so ever. Leagaly that is!
>-
>If I had the time I would research the FAR's for you but right now I
>don't.
>
>You could call the EAA and ask them.
>About 2 years ago their was an excellent article published by them on
>this very subject. The unfortunate thing is that it only ran in the
>Experimenter which means that a lot fewer people saw it than would have
>if it ran in Sport Aviation. I will try to find the copy in our library
>at work)
>-
>One must remember that
>>if you have an accident and there are any discrepancies in the logs or
>>illegal maintenance performed, your insurance will be null and void.
>>
>>
>This is true, but as long is a properly rated person has completed the
>condition inspection and signed off saying so then you are legal.
>
>Without getting into a long winded post I will refer you to FAR Part 43
>FAR part 43 is titled Maintenance, Preventive Maintenance, Rebuilding,
>and Alteration.
>
>FAR43.1 sub part b (the very first paragraph of FAR Part 43) says...
>"This part (Part 43) does not apply to any aircraft for which an
>experimental airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a
>different kind of airworthiness certificate had previously been issued
>for that aircraft."
>
>As you can see everything in part 43 that regulates the repair and
>service of certified aircraft does not apply to homebuilts... almost.
>
>All amateur built aircraft operating limitations that I have ever seen,
>have an instruction that requires the annual condition inspection to be
>signed off with a statement of "I certify that I have inspected this
>aircraft in accordance with the scope of FAR 43 appendix D and found it
>to be in airworthy condition."
>
>Appendix D is a list of items to be completed in a Annual or 100 hr.
>inspection.
>
>The reason for this statement is that since you aren't regulated by FAR
>Part 43 for your inspection the are directing you to use the checklist
>(it is also in A.C. 43.13) as the required guide line for your
>inspection.
>Not because it is required by FAR Part 43 (which you are not governed
>by), but by the requirement written in your operating limitations (which
>you are governed by).
>
>Like I said before... It doesn't sound like something the FAA would give
>us home builders, but I for one am going to receive it thankfully and
>then keep my mouth shut. Opps, hope know one from the FAA monitors this
>list.
>
>Sorry about the long post, and I will try to find the article I
>mentioned.
>It explained it far better than I ever could.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
>The article on Amateur-Built Maintenance by Earl Lawrence was
>published in
>the April '96 EAA Chapter newsletter. As I re-published it in the
>August
>'96 Landings, the newsletter of Chapter 75, I might be able to attach
>a copy
>later this week.
>
>The last paragraph sums most of it up..
>
>"Let me clarify this. Anyone can work on an experimental aircraft and
>sign
>off the work. How ever, the annual "condition" inspection must be
>completed
>by an A&P or Repairman."
>
>Earl is the EAA government programs person. He is also an A&P.
>
>
-
Thanks Cy,
I new it was in a publication that not many EAA members saw it in.
I was an EAA Chapter president at the time which is why I received it.
I'm sure their would be no problem posting the artical here as long as
you credit Mr Lawrence as the author.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Large Strut for Tip Up Canopy |
Listers, I heard that someone in Oregeon (?) sells a gas (?) strut kid
which allows raising the canopy to a higher position. Also the strut is
more towards the front of the AP, giving more room to enter/exit the plane.
Anybody knows who sells this options? Also, if you have this system
installed we would appreciate your feed-back. There are two of us here in
Colorado interested in this system. Thanks
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO ||jigging fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
>
>I'd prefer however to ... put a conventional whiskey compas in the panel.
I recently rebuilt the panel for my RV-4 and mounted the compass in the
panel. I laid everything out and checked the compass for excessive
deviation. No problem (you can see my RV-4 panel at
http://www.rose.com/~afa/airplanepics.htg/lloyd-2.jpg). I then added the
switches for my audio panel as an afterthought and the damned things are
magnetized. The deviation is nasty. I haven't solved that problem yet.
Does anybody have a good tool for degaussing miniature toggle switches?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump/gascolator position |
Rutan originally tried the clear glass filter bit. It was fine in the dry
desert but could not handle large amounts of moisture found in the air
elsewhere. The is a reason for fuel systems being the way they are. They
are time proven. Boost pumps are placed in cool places to overcome vapor
lock. That is why they aren't on the firewall after the gascolator.
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump/gascolator position
>
>>
>>I want to install my gascolator before the electric boost pump, this
>>will filter the fuel feed to the boost pump and will avoid pressurizing
>>the gascolator.
>
>
> **What I decided to do so as to be able to preflight the filter condition
>is to mount a clear glass filter on each line before the selector. It
>allows seperate sorces in case any clogging probem, unless of course both
>tank have the same problem. I am then back to square one. Some feel this
>is an over kill, and they might be right....99.9% of the time. I decided
>for my installation this also reduced vapor lock potenial areas.
> As I see it every fuel system has a trade off of pluses and minuses. I
>pondered this fuel system from the get go. And I do not think that is the
>only way to go, but so far it seems to satisfy some problems and create
>others.
>
>
>A Good Day To You!
>Denny RV-6 Near done!
>Lebanon, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3 project for sale |
I have a friend that might be interested. Please tell me more and your
location.
Thanks,
Bob Cornacchia
RV6
E-Mail me direct
RV6ARC(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Angle for the tie down support (RV8) |
>I am trying to locate the T6 3/4x3/4support angle that is needed for the
tie
downs.<
Pete,
My kit came with three six foot pieces of 3/4 x 3/4. The inventory called
for 18' misc legnths. (sizes may vary from kit to kit I guess) I used
about half of one piece on my wing kit, the tie down supports and a few
pieces on the center section. I was concerned when I was done that I had
so much left and was afraid it was actually supposed to be saved for the
fuselage. A note to Van's assured me that I had not messed up and this
angle will come in handy else where.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV as Social Animal |
Holy Cow!! Thanks for the RV flight story Buster!! It's this sort of thing
I'm on the List for now. I need inspiration like this to remind me how badly
I need to re-direct my life to make this happen for me....
I was about to unsubscribe from the list, but maybe I'll stay on a little
while longer, and hopefully we'll get some more similar stories....
Keep em coming, RV flyers!
Randy Simpson
Haven't had the pleasure to fly in an RV yet, but will soon. Stories like
Busters is the next best thing....
>
>What a great day this was ! Morning broke as a fiery red band of dawn,
>signaling a great day to fly. Cold, crisp winter-like air which had me
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rae1(at)planeteer.com> |
Today I learned that small electric vacuum pumps were installed in 1982
Cadillacs and that they have the ability to drive a couple of
instruments.
Has anyone tried using one of these?
Roger Embree
Alliston, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
My compass, mounted in the lower right half of the panel, suffers much from
the proximity of the right joystick. I can swing it 30 degrees or more by
moving the joysticks through their full range to verify "flight controls free
and clear." The inspector actually laughed aloud when he spotted this on my
airworthiness inspection. I had to promise to fix it, but darned if I've
gotten around to it yet. That GPS is so sweet... I admit I never even glance
at the compass but every once in a while. As if to get even with me for the
neglect, the compass is losing fluid, forcing me to notice the sloshing
waterline on those occasions when I do happen to glance at it.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV as Social Animal |
> I need to re-direct my life to make this happen for me....
> I was about to unsubscribe from the list, but maybe I'll stay on a little
> while longer, and hopefully we'll get some more similar stories....
> Keep em coming, RV flyers!
> Randy Simpson
Hey, Randy: when you finally DO get around to building an RV, are you going
to re-do all the steel parts in titanium?
(Love them ti-downs!)
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
Brian
try www.sierra.net/skyranch/degauss
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass location
>Does anybody have a good tool for degaussing miniature toggle switches?
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I am building the RV6A, IO360 180 CSP (Hertzel) I have been told that I
may have to move my battery to the rear somewhere to stay within the weight
and balance envelope. I also have the heavy weight starter. What say you
people that have walked this path.
thanks ahead.
Joe/fuselage
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Get a lightweight alternator and starter. Move oil cooler to back of the
engine. Use stainless Steel muffs and stacks. Use the lighter weight Slick
mags or go to electronic ignition.
From: joseph.wiza <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 6:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A
>
>I am building the RV6A, IO360 180 CSP (Hertzel) I have been told that I
>may have to move my battery to the rear somewhere to stay within the weight
>and balance envelope. I also have the heavy weight starter. What say you
>people that have walked this path.
>thanks ahead.
>
>Joe/fuselage
>planejoe(at)flnet.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
> Does anybody have a good tool for degaussing miniature toggle switches?
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>
Brian,
If you can take them out of the plane, take them to your favorite stereo repair
shop, or check with Radio Shack to see if they still sell tape degausers (used
to
be very inexpensive).
I guess you know not to get it near the rest of your panel.
Now for a non list question: can you tell me how to get v90 modems with Lucent
chipsets to work with my IP's US Robotics modems?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot Heater Amps |
Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
from a Piper Senica.
My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
To confuse matters I looked at the electrical load analysys for a Piper
Seminole this afternoon and they showed 5.5 amps for the pitot, however I
forgot to check if this was a 28 volt system.
Anyone out there have a Senica service manual showing the amperage draw for
the pitot or a wiring diagram showing the wire size.
gmcnutt(at)compuserve.com
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
>Thanks Cy,
>I new it was in a publication that not many EAA members saw it in.
>I was an EAA Chapter president at the time which is why I received it.
>I'm sure their would be no problem posting the artical here as long as
>you credit Mr Lawrence as the author.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
So here it is! I scanned my published copy with a "pull quote" I have
checked it over for accuracy, but strange thing can happen.
Amateur-Built Maintenance
By Earl Lawrence, EAA Government Programs Office EAA CHAPTER GRAM
newsletter, April '96
The FAA Government Programs office has recently received many questions
about who can do maintenance and what maintenance is required on an
experimental amateur-built aircraft. So, I thought this would be a good time
to review the regulations.
FAR Part 43.1(b) specifically excludes experimental aircraft. It states,
"This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an experimental
airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a different kind of
airworthiness certificate had previously been issued for that aircraft." I
stress the word aircraft so that it is not interpreted to include an engine.
What about major repairs and alterations? First, you never have to fill out
a form 337 for an experimental aircraft. Repairs, major or minor, can be
done by anyone (e.g., remember Part 43.1 (b)). However, alterations are
different. If you alter the aircraft with a different propeller or engine,
for example, then it is not the airplane for which you received an
airworthiness certificate. This would also apply to changing pistons or
magnetos. It is a new and untested airplane. If you change propellers, you
must notify the FAA (not by a 337) of your change.
Your aircraft's operating limitations should have a statement such as the
following in regard to major changes: "The FAA Cognizant Flight Standards
Office must be notified, and their response received in writing, prior to
flying this aircraft after incorporating a major change as defined by FAR
21.93."
If you do not have such a statement on your operating limitations, then you
can claim you do not have to notify the FAA. However, FAA suggests that you
do so even if you do not have this limitation.
The FAA inspector will make a determination as to whether he needs to come
out and inspect the change and/or assign a new test flight period. If the
inspector gives you an OK by letter (which is often done), you should note
the date, time, name, and change in your aircraft log book. If the inspector
wants to inspect the aircraft, it is the same as when you first received
your airworthiness certificate. You start all over. It is a new airplane.
This information is covered in the FAA ORDER 8130.2C paragraph 142 "Issuance
Of Experimental Operating Limitations." Every FAA inspector has a copy of
this ORDER.
If the aircraft received its original airworthiness certificate based on the
fact that the engine was certified and you alter it in any manner that would
render it no longer within certification requirements, then you must notify
the FAA of your change and receive an approval.
Look at it this way, you may use any combination of parts you wish to build
your aircraft. However, once you receive your airworthiness certificate you
cannot alter it without getting the FAA to reinspect the "new" aircraft.
ADs apply to all aircraft, aircraft assemblies and parts the AD is written
against, no matter what type of aircraft they are installed in. The key to
this statement is, "that the AD is written against." For example, if an AD
is written against a particular make, model and serial number propeller, it
only applies to that particular make model and serial number. It applies to
that particular make model and serial number propeller no matter what
aircraft it is installed on. Now this is where I complicate things. You, as
an amateur builder, remove the data plate of that propeller, send it to the
FAA, the FAA notifies the manufacturer, and you make it a Ross propeller
model R1 serial number 001. Now the propeller is no longer the propeller
listed in the AD, so it does not apply. The FAA may, however, issue a new AD
against the Ross propeller model R1 serial number 001. To date the FAA has
never done this, but they can.
If you install an electronic ignition system on a Lycoming engine, you are
still responsible for ADs on other accessories on the engine and the engine
itself if you have the component listed on the AD on your engine. And, of
course, if you haven't changed its designation to the Ross model R1 serial
number 001. In general, you can say if your AC received it's airworthiness
certificate based on the fact it had a certified engine, then the ADs apply.
If you received an airworthiness certificate based on the fact that your
engine was not certified, then the ADs don't apply.
Isn't this fun?!
Now about who can do work on amateur built aircraft. Anyone can normally
work on an experimental aircraft and sign off the work, including your two
year old son. Some FAA field inspectors do not believe this. Remember FAR
Part 43.1(b) "This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an
experimental airworthiness certificate has been issued." The operating
limitations that each experimental aircraft must have are what replaces Part
43. Each set of operating limitations is different. However, an FAA
inspector has the power to place a requirement in the operating limitations
that all work must be done by an FAA certified A&P. So far to FAA's
knowledge, this has never happened on an amateur built aircraft. Most
operating limitations contain a statement that says an annual "condition"
inspection must be performed per the scope and detail of FAR Part 43
Appendix D. It also states that an FAA certificated A&P or repairman must
perform this inspection. Note it says, "A&P or Repairman." It does not
require an IA.
Let me clarify this. Anyone can work on an experimental aircraft and sign
off the work. However, the annual "condition" inspection must be completed
by an A&P or a Repairman.
I hope this clarifies some of the confusion that is out there.
________________________________________________________________________________
Just remember when the GAS gos the cg moves aft. this makes alittle forward
better than a little aft..
Pat Patterson RV6A N598EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Further thought. Battery cables are VERY heavy. Instead of moving the
battery sometimes it is better to attach a lead weight on the aft bulkhead.
The weight many times will be less than the added overall weight of the
cabling.
How can this be? A small weight with a big moment arm can be more than your
battery with a short moment arm.
Short cables also give better starting.
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A
>
>Get a lightweight alternator and starter. Move oil cooler to back of the
>engine. Use stainless Steel muffs and stacks. Use the lighter weight Slick
>mags or go to electronic ignition.
>From: joseph.wiza <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
>To: rvlist
>Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 6:57 PM
>Subject: RV-List: RV6A
>
>
>>
>>I am building the RV6A, IO360 180 CSP (Hertzel) I have been told that I
>>may have to move my battery to the rear somewhere to stay within the
weight
>>and balance envelope. I also have the heavy weight starter. What say you
>>people that have walked this path.
>>thanks ahead.
>>
>>Joe/fuselage
>>planejoe(at)flnet.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
Your 13 amps sounds about right. You can "burn" off a pitot cover in flight
I've been told. Further, that Cessna 182 uses a 15 amp breaker.
From: George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 8:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pitot Heater Amps
>
>Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
>wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
>from a Piper Senica.
>
>My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
>tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
>wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
>
>To confuse matters I looked at the electrical load analysys for a Piper
>Seminole this afternoon and they showed 5.5 amps for the pitot, however I
>forgot to check if this was a 28 volt system.
>
>Anyone out there have a Senica service manual showing the amperage draw for
>the pitot or a wiring diagram showing the wire size.
>
>gmcnutt(at)compuserve.com
>
>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>6A - Wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Foss <lfoss(at)silcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 For Sale |
I have just decided to sell my RV4. I love the airplane but I need the money more
than the airplane right now. So for anyone who is interested or who knows of
anyone who might be interested please read the specs below. Thanks.
Happy Landings!
Travis Foss
RV4 N19AC
For Sale: 1985 RV4, O-360 A1A, 600 TTOA, 300 TTOFNE, Northstar Loran, Narco
Transponder, Narco 10A Nav/Com, Sigtronics Intercom. Flies Fantastic, outstanding
performance:) $50,000.00
Travis Foss: (805) 688-0245 Home, (805) 686-3795 Pager, E-mail: lfoss(at)silcom.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | We was a thinkin.... |
Last night on the ICQ RV-Chat a bunch of us were thinkin' with the benefit
of a few adult beverages.... We was a wondering if we had a "speed dash"
from MCW (Mason City, Iowa) to OSH or some less congested airport nearby,
(MCW to OSH is 213 nm) how many of you would be interested?
Arrive on Wed and we could sacrifice a pig, tell a few tall tales about how
fast our birds are and then get up Thursday and prove it. We could have
some categories for -4's and -6's spilt them up between 320's and 360's then
have an overall winner and figure out some handicap system for those who
don't want to run balls out for an hour.
MCW is close enuf that some could go to OSH early and come over and race
back. We have a great airport here, lots of room to camp and alot of hotel
rooms near the airport. We have a Good EAA chapter that would help with
logistics. We could even work out transportation for your gear to OSH if
you needed to get weight down.
Is this nuts or is their any interest????? You will notice that nowhere in
this post did I use a word that rhymes with "pace." This would not be "one
of those."
BTW, if you have ICQ and want to join in on the fun and other discussions of
high intellect, we meet nightly at 0300Z. Email me directly or my ICQ # is
13873571, Moe C., Al M., Chet R., Jim Nice, and others are regular
attenders. You can contact them too.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Front Windshield Trim |
Hi Listers,
I just finished making the metal trim pieces for the front of my RV-6 tip up
canopy. I used the plans shown in the June 1997 RVator. The trim pieces were
actually very easy to make and look real good. My thanks goes out to the person
who submitted that article. I have one question about the installation though.
Am
I supposed to use aluminum rivets to hold the trim to the plexiglas? If so do I
need to make a back up strip for the rivet to grip to behind the window or can
I
'pop' the rivet into the plexiglas only. I am afraid that the localized pressure
of the rivet will crack the window and I don't think that a back up strip (similar
to the one on the rear window) will fit in the space between the glare shield and
the window.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you builders may give me.
DGM - RV-6 Finishing trim on the canopy - LOOKIN' GOOD!
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
<>
George,
My heated pitot, which I got from Warren Gretz, indicates that it needs a 15
amp circuit. This corrobrates what you computed to 13 amps. According the
chart in Van's manual, and given the distance from the switch, this calls
for 12 guage wire. Sorry, but I ran 14 guage instead. Perhaps others can
confirm whether this will work.
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500
Vancouver, Wa
fuselage
From: George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 5:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pitot Heater Amps
>
>Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
>wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
>from a Piper Senica.
>
>My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
>tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
>wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
>
>To confuse matters I looked at the electrical load analysys for a Piper
>Seminole this afternoon and they showed 5.5 amps for the pitot, however I
>forgot to check if this was a 28 volt system.
>
>Anyone out there have a Senica service manual showing the amperage draw for
>the pitot or a wiring diagram showing the wire size.
>
>gmcnutt(at)compuserve.com
>
>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>6A - Wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Windshield Trim |
Doug,
I am at the same exact phase on my sliding canopy. In fact I formed the
left side fairing this morning before work called me away. I too found
the fairing real easy to make. I formed mine from .050 3003 H14 and
spent more time making the template, forming block and tool than I spent
forming the fairing. I have had the same question about attachment and
this is what I plan on doing;
I plan on painting the lower two inches of the inside of the windscreen
satin black to simulate the black edges found on windshields on new
automobiles. The top extent of the painting will be about 1/2 inch below
the top of the aluminum fairing that is on the outside.
The reason for the paint is to hide the pro seal that I will use as an
adhesive to bond the fairing to the windscreen. Also I have noted that
local paint shops use pro seal caulking guns and lay a bead where the
fairing meets the plexi. This looks real professional on the planes I
have seen.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 finishing the canopy trim.
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I just finished making the metal trim pieces for the front of my RV-6 tip up
> canopy. I used the plans shown in the June 1997 RVator. The trim pieces were
> actually very easy to make and look real good. My thanks goes out to the person
> who submitted that article. I have one question about the installation though.
Am
> I supposed to use aluminum rivets to hold the trim to the plexiglas? If so do
I
> need to make a back up strip for the rivet to grip to behind the window or can
I
> 'pop' the rivet into the plexiglas only. I am afraid that the localized pressure
> of the rivet will crack the window and I don't think that a back up strip (similar
> to the one on the rear window) will fit in the space between the glare shield
and
> the window.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
In a message dated 11/7/98 10:52:31 PM Central Standard Time,
dougr(at)petroblend.com writes:
> Last night on the ICQ RV-Chat a bunch of us were thinkin' with the benefit
> of a few adult beverages.... We was a wondering if we had a "speed dash"
> from MCW (Mason City, Iowa) to OSH or some less congested airport nearby,
> (MCW to OSH is 213 nm) how many of you would be interested?
That would be a good idea. As a builder I don't have a plane yet, but. You
might want to look at going to Wautoma, instead of oshkosh. Wautoma is about
15 mins from oshkosh by cessna. The star dusters stay at wautoma for EAA.
Nice black top runway. If anyone would like some more about Wautoma let me
know. I am from there and live in oshkosh. I will be flying out of wautoma
once mine is done.
Chris WIlcox
(920) 235-1082
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV as Social Animal |
>> Keep em coming, RV flyers!
>> Randy Simpson
>
>Hey, Randy: when you finally DO get around to building an RV, are you going
>to re-do all the steel parts in titanium?
>
>(Love them ti-downs!)
>
>-Bill B
*smiles*
Yeah Bill, it's like you read my mind... I've been asked by many of my
Ti-down customers to make them some Ti landing gear and other RV parts. I
feel I need to make prototypes on my own plane and try them myself before
selling any of them.
Let's see...I've sold 74 sets of Ti-downs to RV-Listers now. There's about a
1000 on the List. That leaves 900 and some that still need my space age
Ti-downs for their planes. If I can get half of them to buy my Ti-downs for
their planes, I'll have an RV kit (hmmmm, an RV-6 as a business expense? a
test bed, you know)
Nice to hear you like your Titanium Ti-downs
Keep pounding those rivits, fly your planes, and give us your RV flying
stories...
Randy S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
I don't know how many of you there are out there who are building RVs on
this list would agree, but I find that the second question that non-pilots
who inspect my project ask (the first is, "What color are you going to
paint it?"), is "Did you choose an RV because you like the way it flies?"
After saying that I hadn't really decided on a paint scheme yet (my wings
are in the jigs), and saying that I've only seen pictures of RV-8s, never
flown in any RV model, I do always add hopefully, "But I did sit in an RV-4
once."
The look that these people give me is one reserved from aspiring bungee
jumpers who never thought it important to measure the length of those
bungees before they bought the kit. I get that look and then they take a
step away from me, as his my impending bodily harm might splatter on 'em.
I mentioned this to a fellow named Fred Stucklen, who was presenting a talk
on aircraft electrical systems at the RV Builders Forum is Oswego, New York
this past September (kudos to EAA Chapter 486). Fred said that he would
have been glad to go for a ride with me, but that the nose gear had
collapsed on his 6A, and that he had been reduced to flying factory built
aircraft like myself. Once he got his RV put back together, he said, he'd
take me for a toot in a real airplane.
I said sure thing. Fred seemed like an awful nice fellow, but you know how
things are at these, and he lives way down in Connecticut, so I really
didn't think that anything was going to come of it.
Imagine my surprise when I see Fred posting a message on the RV-List "to
that guy in Maine who wanted a free ride"...
Well to make a long story shorter, Fred flies up through the clouds and ice
to our little airport on the shores of Merrymeeting Bay, Maine and gives me
a ride. He doesn't just give me a ride, he lets me fly his plane. We go
through a series of turns, stalls, touch-and-goes, and slow flight; and
then we had (more) FUN!
I own an old Aeronca Chief and a PA-28-160; I learned how to fly in C-150s
and 172s, and I've flown in a range of the single-engine Cessnas and
Pipers. The word "responsive" is one you see often connected to RV
aircraft, but I didn't really appreciate what that meant until yesterday.
The first girl I ever really kissed was named Cathy Alger, and even though
it was a long time ago I bet I could lead you right to the spot where it
happened, and I know I can describe how I felt, which was "Man! Is this
gonna be GOOD!" and "Why didn't I start doing this YEARS ago?". I think
I'll have to look Cathy up...none of you guys married her, did you?
Anyways, the purpose of this too-long message was to thank Fred for giving
me and my neighbor Bill (RV-3 Finish Kit) a HUGE shot in the arm. He would
let me buyhim lunch. He wouldn't let me buy him gas. I just found a
silver bullet in the grass as he blasted out of Bill's strip doing airleron
rolls up to the clouds.
Thanks Fred, your money's no good in Bowdoinham, Maine. Hope you come back
again soon.
Nick Knobil & Bill Saindon
Bowdoinham, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Compass location |
Try a mains (or just AC) powered solenoid coil. Watch the on time as
some coils draw too much current when energised away from the valve
they came with. Failing that a video degaussing wand should work but
in either case remove anything you don't want degaussed from the area
before starting, like compasses, moving coil meters ect (i.e.
VOR/ILS/ADF indicators ect).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass location
Date: 07-11-98 11:46
>
>I'd prefer however to ... put a conventional whiskey compas in the panel.
I recently rebuilt the panel for my RV-4 and mounted the compass in the
panel. I laid everything out and checked the compass for excessive
deviation. No problem (you can see my RV-4 panel at
http://www.rose.com/~afa/airplanepics.htg/lloyd-2.jpg). I then added the
switches for my audio panel as an afterthought and the damned things are
magnetized. The deviation is nasty. I haven't solved that problem yet.
Does anybody have a good tool for degaussing miniature toggle switches?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
Count me in if the WX permits
chet
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> Last night on the ICQ RV-Chat a bunch of us were thinkin' with the benefit
> of a few adult beverages.... We was a wondering if we had a "speed dash"
> from MCW (Mason City, Iowa) to OSH or some less congested airport nearby,
> (MCW to OSH is 213 nm) how many of you would be interested?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell) |
| Subject: | Main Wing Skins - overlap |
Hello,
A quick question regarding the skin overlap area. At the rear spar we
need to cut out the inboard skin where it is overlaped. I would think that
this cut out should be as little as possible. The plans are not too clear -
How much do we cut out??
Also at the main spar where we need to bevel, I see we bevel both skins.
The top surface of inboard (underneath) skin, but on the outboard skin do
we bevel on the bottom?
Thanks in advance,
David Wentzell
Racine, WI - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
In a message dated 11/7/98 11:09:08 PM Central Standard Time,
dougr(at)petroblend.com writes:
<<
Last night on the ICQ RV-Chat a bunch of us were thinkin' with the benefit
of a few adult beverages.... We was a wondering if we had a "speed dash"
from MCW (Mason City, Iowa) to OSH or some less congested airport nearby,
(MCW to OSH is 213 nm) how many of you would be interested?
>>
Doug-
Sign me up.
B>Clary
RV-6A 75TX
0320 fixed pitch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Social Animal/Copperstate RV?Paint |
seen the RV6 that is featured on the Copperstate 98 web page. I would like to
know what paint system he used as it appears to be quiet extraordinary. I
guess it is one of those pearlescent type paints that change color depending
upon how you see them. I wonder how durable these paints are and if there is a
fading problem with the base coat. ?? JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV Wiring diagram |
Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that would
include
wire gauge, amps, length for a typical installation. I know that there will
be variances
but I am looking for more of a sanity check list than a definitive list.
Thanks
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
>
>Hello,
> A quick question regarding the skin overlap area. At the rear spar
we
>need to cut out the inboard skin where it is overlaped. I would think
that
>this cut out should be as little as possible. The plans are not too
clear -
>How much do we cut out??
>Also at the main spar where we need to bevel, I see we bevel both
skins.
>The top surface of inboard (underneath) skin, but on the outboard skin
do
>we bevel on the bottom?
> Thanks in advance,
> David Wentzell
> Racine, WI - Wings
David,
The inboard skin is trimmed to result in a butt joint with the outboard
skin at the rear spar. You don't want the skins to actually touch here,
or they will fret on each other and chip the paint off. A very small gap
is preferable. At the main spar, I only beveled the inboard (bottom)
skin and it came out fine. Now that I look back on it, taking off less
material from both skins seems to make better sense.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
fuselage nutplates into eternity
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Windshield Trim |
Gary Zilik wrote:
> I plan on painting the lower two inches of the inside of the windscreen
> satin black to simulate the black edges found on windshields on new
> automobiles. The top extent of the painting will be about 1/2 inch below
> the top of the aluminum fairing that is on the outside.
>
> The reason for the paint is to hide the pro seal that I will use as an
> adhesive to bond the fairing to the windscreen. Also I have noted that
> local paint shops use pro seal caulking guns and lay a bead where the
> fairing meets the plexi. This looks real professional on the planes I
> have seen.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Gary Zilik
> 6A s/n 22993 finishing the canopy trim.
>
>
> >
> > I just finished making the metal trim pieces for the front of my RV-6 tip up
> > canopy. Am I supposed to use aluminum rivets to hold the trim to the plexiglas?
If
> so do I
> > need to make a back up strip for the rivet to grip to behind the window or
can I
> > 'pop' the rivet into the plexiglas only. I am afraid that the localized pressure
> > of the rivet will crack the window and I don't think that a back up strip (similar
> > to the one on the rear window) will fit in the space between the glare shield
and
> > the window.
Gary - While pondering the solution I may have solved my own question. I want to
be able
to remove the trim if a canopy needs changing later on and I don't think that I
could
get a proseal bond to separate without destroying the trim. I think that the trim
could
be pilot drilled with a split point bit, installed on the window and then drill
with a
plexi bit through the pilot holes, and then remove the window from the canopy frame
and
make a backing strip with just the trim and window on the bench. The assembled
trim /
backing strip can then be riveted together on the bench and then assembled as an
assembly to the canopy frame. The rest of the side screws and rear rivets can then
be
installed as per the plans.
What do you think?
DGM - RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
On Sat, 7 Nov 1998, Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
>
>
> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> > Does anybody have a good tool for degaussing miniature toggle switches?
> >
> > Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> >
>
> Brian,
> If you can take them out of the plane, take them to your favorite stereo repair
> shop, or check with Radio Shack to see if they still sell tape degausers (used
to
> be very inexpensive).
>
> I guess you know not to get it near the rest of your panel.
The only thing magnetic in the panel is the compass. I guess the motors
in the gyros count too but I am less worried about them.
> Now for a non list question: can you tell me how to get v90 modems with Lucent
> chipsets to work with my IP's US Robotics modems?
Well, tell your ISP to dump those large, inferior, and expensive USR boxes
in favor of the Lucent PM4 boxes. The PM4 is our (Livingston Enterprises
All kidding aside, I think someone is going to have to upgrade their modem
firmware. Hopefully it will be the ISP. You are undoubtedly not the only
one with this problem.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
In a message dated 11/7/98 6:58:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cgalley(at)accessus.net writes:
<< You can "burn" off a pitot cover in flight
I've been told. >>
On military birds, not checking the pitot heat before applying ground power
was a chronic problem. Also expensive, since the solution involved total
replacement of the pitot tube when the cover was "cooked on"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
On Sun, 8 Nov 1998, Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
> tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
> wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
Watts = Volts * Amps (P=EI)
Amps = Watts / Volts
So, if you have a 100W element at 14V the current is a little over 7 amps.
If you have a 70W element at 12V the current is 5 amps. The pitot heat is
a resistor so there is no surge current like a light bulb. Since the
current drain is continuous you need to make sure that the thermal circuit
breakers don't pop. I would make the breaker and wiring handle at least
150% of the expected load.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV HOME PAGE |
VIST MY WEB-PAGE AT WWW.ZYWORLD.COM/RV6AJMW IT IS ALL ABOUT HOW I GOT
INTO A RV AND WHAT I AM WORKING ON.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
> Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
> wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
> from a Piper Senica.
I installed a used heated pitot tube off of a C-172. I used a calibrated
meter on a test bench and measured the current draw initially at 5 amps and
then dropped to 4.5 when hot. I used a 7 1/2 amp breaker with 18 gauge wire.
If you have access to a multimeter that will measure up to 10 amps, you could
use it with the battery on one of your vehicles to measure the actual current
draw for your specific pitot tube.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/8/98 4:43:38 AM Pacific Standard Time, nknobil(at)gwi.net
writes:
<< Anyways, the purpose of this too-long message was to thank Fred for giving
me and my neighbor Bill (RV-3 Finish Kit) a HUGE shot in the arm. >>
For most of us, we just can't get enough shots.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
David,
I had questions here too. The plans are not very clear. I called Van's
about it. The intent is to bevel both skins in a triangle across the corner
just in the area where both skins lie on the spar flange. Bevel the
underside of the top skin and the top side of the bottom skin. The intent
is to have the final lap joint appear to be the same thickness as the
leading edge skin that it butts against. No lump in the skin.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 laying up fiberglass plenum for oil cooler
M Wentzell)
>Also at the main spar where we need to bevel, I see we bevel both skins.
>The top surface of inboard (underneath) skin, but on the outboard skin do
>we bevel on the bottom?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
Rick,
If you have not checked out "The AeroElectric Connection", please do.
You will find not only wiring diagrams, but answers to nearly any
question you may have concerning the electrical system on your RV.
You may get more info and a review of "The AeroElectric Connection"
here:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/AeroElectric.html
Good luck with your project,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Rick & Barbara Osgood wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that would
> include
> wire gauge, amps, length for a typical installation. I know that there will
> be variances
> but I am looking for more of a sanity check list than a definitive list.
>
> Thanks
> Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
<< Is this nuts or is their any interest????? >>
Yes and Yes,
Count me in.
RV4 0320 131RB
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
>The only thing magnetic in the panel is the compass. I guess the motors
>in the gyros count too but I am less worried about them.
One small and nitpicky correction, but I do not know if it would have any
noticable effect. All electrical current has a magnetic field around it.
So, theoretically, if your compass was too close to your main bus, you could
get some declination, although probably negligable.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
I would love to participate! What kind of handicap would I get for a Chevy
c/k 1500 pickup? Vne=95mph
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/rv8/welcome.html
>Last night on the ICQ RV-Chat a bunch of us were thinkin' with the benefit
>of a few adult beverages.... We was a wondering if we had a "speed dash"
>from MCW (Mason City, Iowa) to OSH or some less congested airport nearby,
>(MCW to OSH is 213 nm) how many of you would be interested?
>
>Arrive on Wed and we could sacrifice a pig, tell a few tall tales about how
>fast our birds are and then get up Thursday and prove it. We could have
>some categories for -4's and -6's spilt them up between 320's and 360's
then
>have an overall winner and figure out some handicap system for those who
>don't want to run balls out for an hour.
>
>MCW is close enuf that some could go to OSH early and come over and race
>back. We have a great airport here, lots of room to camp and alot of hotel
>rooms near the airport. We have a Good EAA chapter that would help with
>logistics. We could even work out transportation for your gear to OSH if
>you needed to get weight down.
>
>Is this nuts or is their any interest????? You will notice that nowhere in
>this post did I use a word that rhymes with "pace." This would not be "one
>of those."
>
>BTW, if you have ICQ and want to join in on the fun and other discussions
of
>high intellect, we meet nightly at 0300Z. Email me directly or my ICQ # is
>13873571, Moe C., Al M., Chet R., Jim Nice, and others are regular
>attenders. You can contact them too.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "albert poon" <albertp(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | elec art horizon |
dear listers,
i installed my rc allen elec artificial horizon into the panel, fired it up
with my test 12v battery. the motor spooled up, but the a.h. picture never
set itself to wings level. could this be because the unit needs all 14v to
work ?
thanks
regards
albert poon
albertp(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Enter your name here" <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
Hey Doug!
I'll be there in the summer and join you guys. providing you young bucks
give us old guys a 5 min start. (: Send me the dope on how to join the chat
room and i'll come over.
Another thing, I bought a plenumn chamber from Sam James and I'm looking
for someone who has made the installation to help me get started. Do you
know anyone?
Thanks,
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I have hard wired my GPS Pilot III on the panel of my RV-8, and was
wondering, if I leave batteries in the unit, will it automatically switch
over to them in the event of power failure? Or will it just drain the
batteries first, then use 12-v? Could not find anything in the manual
about this. Or if anybody knows the e-mail address of Garmin, I could
contact them.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Sam Buchanan's Ti-down Report... |
RV-Listers (especially newbie Listers)
I've been getting inquiries about my Ti-downs, wondering what they are, and
realized it hasn't been mentioned on the List that Sam Buchanan (of the "RV
Journal"), has done a product evaluation on them, with pictures... The URL
for this write-up is at:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tidowns.html
This should answer many of the questions I've been getting...
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Brownsville, OR
p.s. Thanks Sam, for the nice report!
________________________________________________________________________________
dont know about the IO360 but mine came in fine with the battery in the usual
spot.
Engine was an O360A1AD, with the CSP.
Currently in the early stages of its flight testing.
Tartan Special
G-RVEE
________________________________________________________________________________
Re O360 A1AD, forgot to say, I used B and C lightweight starter and
alternator.
Tartan Special
G-RVEE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS PILOT III |
Check out www.garmin.com
>
>I have hard wired my GPS Pilot III on the panel of my RV-8, and was
>wondering, if I leave batteries in the unit, will it automatically switch
>over to them in the event of power failure? Or will it just drain the
>batteries first, then use 12-v? Could not find anything in the manual
>about this. Or if anybody knows the e-mail address of Garmin, I could
>contact them.
>Thanks.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Social Animal/Copperstate RV?Paint |
The RV-6 belongs to Dwain Harris, (my hangar partner). He' monitors the list
so I'm sure he will respond to your questions.
Walt Hastings RV-6A N79WH (the red RV in the photo, behind Dwain's)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS PILOT III |
>
>I have hard wired my GPS Pilot III on the panel of my RV-8, and was
>wondering, if I leave batteries in the unit, will it automatically switch
>over to them in the event of power failure? Or will it just drain the
>batteries first, then use 12-v? Could not find anything in the manual
>about this. Or if anybody knows the e-mail address of Garmin, I could
>contact them.
>Thanks.
The Garmin 90 will display a battery meter on the Satellite status page.
When you plug it in to ships power, the meter disappears and tells you that
it is being externally powered. If the cigarette plug comes out the only
way I know is if I check the status page and see the meter. I believe
the -III has the same feature.
I believe that a hand held GPS and a cell phone, both with charged batteries
is the best back up equipment you can have on board. Not quite, but nearly
no go items. Even if you are IFR, with either Vacuum gyros or turn and
bank, with those two additional items you are not in trouble yet.
I know that using a cellphone in an aircraft is illegal but in an emergency
I wouldn't hesitate for a nanosecond. Rumor has it.... that if you pull the
power back you can communicate on a cell phone in an RV.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS PILOT III |
try starting your plane then disconnecting the batt. then see if it works.if
it does try with no alt.(altinater)if your plane will run with out it.then
also u can try tunning on yyour gps with out the ignition on or disconnect the
power supply
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS PILOT III |
>
>
>I have hard wired my GPS Pilot III on the panel of my RV-8, and was
>wondering, if I leave batteries in the unit, will it automatically switch
>over to them in the event of power failure? Or will it just drain the
>batteries first, then use 12-v? Could not find anything in the manual
>about this.
The GPS III I have in my car switches to batteries only if 12V is removed.
It does so seamlessly. I believe the units are basically the same. The III
just doesn't have the aviation database.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM 88220
RV-6Q Removed some radio gremlins today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
>
>Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
>wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
>from a Piper Senica.
>
>My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
>tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
>wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
>
>To confuse matters I looked at the electrical load analysys for a Piper
>Seminole this afternoon and they showed 5.5 amps for the pitot, however I
>forgot to check if this was a 28 volt system.
>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>6A - Wings.
>
George,
The figures are about right (12 Amps or so) which implies that the Seminole
was indeed a 28 volt system. My blade type heater draws this much in test.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
n.com>
>> My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
>> tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
>> wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
>
>Watts = Volts * Amps (P=EI)
>
>Amps = Watts / Volts
>
>So, if you have a 100W element at 14V the current is a little over 7 amps.
>If you have a 70W element at 12V the current is 5 amps. The pitot heat is
>a resistor so there is no surge current like a light bulb. Since the
>current drain is continuous you need to make sure that the thermal circuit
>breakers don't pop. I would make the breaker and wiring handle at least
>150% of the expected load.
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
Brian,
Yes but.......
The pitot heater doesn't see 14 volts. You spend quite a bit of current
heating up the wire. Bob Nuckolls has some nice real world calculations
somewhere in reference to landing lights I think.... another nasty piece of
heavy wire in both wings.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
>
>Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that would
>include
>wire gauge, amps, length for a typical installation. I know that there will
>be variances
>but I am looking for more of a sanity check list than a definitive list.
>
>Thanks
>Rick Osgood
Rick,
As usual Van's is hard to beat. I would suggest buying the Van's wiring kit
as a starter and getting Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric Connection (He has some
nice wiring diagrams in the back)
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
I was deeply moved and honored today by a note from out in cyberspace,
courtesy of one of you. I will therefore take a chance and post the
following in the hope that Titanium Randy and his very special friend in
Texas who loved to fly, but can no longer, will find a bit of enjoyment in
this one.
This is about a search of a lifetime.
Back in the dim recess of my hangar, surrounded by 3 RVs and a few
veterans, I saw the bones of an old airframe, the shape of which suggested
one of the great old sedans of the skies of yesteryear.
I was told that it belonged to Buddy G. who, now in his 70s, had found
it languishing in California after searching for this particular airplane
over many years and calls all over North America. He found it, and was now
restoring it to its' original glory. He is not, and never was, a pilot. But
this particular airplane carried him aloft alongside his Dad when he was
but 5 years old.
Dad was one of those who flew in the Great War over the same fields
with the likes of Barker, Bishop, Ball the violinist, Guynemer, Von
Richtofen and the Falcon of Feltre (whose loss was so mourned by his lover
that she visited his grave every day for 50 years and never married).
Upon his return, Dad took up a career as a gov't pilot and would take
Buddy along from time to time. This was heady stuff for a young tad. It was
1933, and the a/c was a lovely old Fairchild.
Dad pulled too many friends out of wrecks in those precarious early days
to push his boy into flying. The boy took another vocation, but never lost
the love of airplanes and memories of Dad.
It occurred to Buddy at last that he had to find old Dad's airplane,
restore it to original in every way and one day donate it to the gov't
aviation museum in a lasting tribute to his Pop and to early aviation.
It is now almost complete, the workmanship clearly shows a labor of
craftsmanship borne of love and caring.
The engine and prop and all instruments are all done and waiting and
covering is about to commence.
Part of the joy was in the success of finding the very airplane that
he had to have.
In the meantime, between long hours of dedication, a stroll out to
the grass will sometimes find Buddy standing in the wake of another
beautiful Fairchild that just happens to live next door.
This is a present day snapshot of what once was and keeps the fire
burning in Buddy to get the job completed.
This lovely Fairchild, no RV, burns twice the gas, goes half as fast,
but is glorious in its' own grand way just for what she is. She is big and
husky, with car-like doors and roll down windows that has plush seats and
big pockets just like the beautiful old sedans.
The prop cranks over 5, 6, 7 times and then she fires up with a throaty
voice that splays back clouds of oil smoke which disappear into who knows
where once the engine catches and the prop becomes a blur.
Buddy looks at the door, sees himself being lifted up to sit where he
cannot see, but hears the sounds, smells the smells, and looks up once
again at Dad and remembers.
It is all back again, just as it used to be, he is just 5 years old.
It is 1933.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT |
Listers,
I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $35.00. That is a
savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater. This
price would be cash or check. For Credt Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
more about the LRI go to:
http://www.lift reserve.com/
and have a look at it and the particulars. I'm sure John Fasching (below)
will answer any questions you might have also. Please contact me on or off
list if you may be interested. AL
>
>FWIW
>
>Jim Huntington of Lift Reserve Indicator responded to me regarding my LRI
>installation with more or less an offer: He said that if enough RV
>builders got together and made a combined order that they would discount
>the price...I personally think the LRI is worth its present retail price of
>around $750 (Oshkosh special was $710) and my hesitation isn't that it is
>not worth the money, its just the parting with $750 for ANYTHING is always
>a pain to me....must have been some Scots in my background. Anyway, if
>you're interested you can find the LRI people on the internet by searching
>for Lift Reserve Indicator...their e-mail address is at the bottom of their
>web page....incidentally, I have no connection or association with the
>company...its just that I think they're on to something with this
instrument.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT |
Listers,
I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $35.00. That is a
savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater. This
price would be cash or check. For Credt Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
more about the LRI go to:
http://www.liftreserve.com/
and have a look at it and the particulars. I'm sure John Fasching (below)
will answer any questions you might have also. Please contact me on or off
list if you may be interested. AL
>
>FWIW
>
>Jim Huntington of Lift Reserve Indicator responded to me regarding my LRI
>installation with more or less an offer: He said that if enough RV
>builders got together and made a combined order that they would discount
>the price...I personally think the LRI is worth its present retail price of
>around $750 (Oshkosh special was $710) and my hesitation isn't that it is
>not worth the money, its just the parting with $750 for ANYTHING is always
>a pain to me....must have been some Scots in my background. Anyway, if
>you're interested you can find the LRI people on the internet by searching
>for Lift Reserve Indicator...their e-mail address is at the bottom of their
>web page....incidentally, I have no connection or association with the
>company...its just that I think they're on to something with this
instrument.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
On Sun, 8 Nov 1998, Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> >The only thing magnetic in the panel is the compass. I guess the motors
> >in the gyros count too but I am less worried about them.
>
> One small and nitpicky correction, but I do not know if it would have any
> noticable effect. All electrical current has a magnetic field around it.
> So, theoretically, if your compass was too close to your main bus, you could
> get some declination, although probably negligable.
Good point and thank you for bringing it up. In my case, the main buss is
on the firewall (Bob Nuckols' fuseblock approach to wiring). No, my
problem exists with all the power turned off in the aircraft. It is
something that is small and very localized. The only things that fit that
description are the switches for the audio panel I added as an
afterthought.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elec art horizon |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, albert poon wrote:
>
> dear listers,
> i installed my rc allen elec artificial horizon into the panel, fired it up
> with my test 12v battery. the motor spooled up, but the a.h. picture never
> set itself to wings level. could this be because the unit needs all 14v to
> work ?
No but it does take electric gyros longer to autoerect than air driven
gyros. Air gyros have a series of erecting vanes that use air pressure to
get the gyro upright quickly durning spin-up.
My electric AI has a "quick erect" knob which I pull and hold while the
gyro is spinning up (about the first 10 seconds seems to do). You also
might try letting it spin up and sit there for awhile. I bet it will
erect itself after about 5 minutes. That seems to be what it takes for my
electric AI.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Leo Davies wrote:
>
>
> >Watts = Volts * Amps (P=EI)
> >
> >Amps = Watts / Volts
> >
> >So, if you have a 100W element at 14V the current is a little over 7 amps.
> >If you have a 70W element at 12V the current is 5 amps. The pitot heat is
> >a resistor so there is no surge current like a light bulb. Since the
> Yes but.......
>
>
> The pitot heater doesn't see 14 volts. You spend quite a bit of current
> heating up the wire. Bob Nuckolls has some nice real world calculations
I am familiar with voltage drop along wire. My back-of-the-hand
calculations are in the ballpark and it is the formula that helps you
figure out the real value. Someone suggested measuring it which is a
really good idea. No errors or miscalcuation from that.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Leo Davies wrote:
>
>
> The pitot heater doesn't see 14 volts. You spend quite a bit of current
> heating up the wire.
Oops, I just realized what you wrote. No, you don't spend any more
current heating up the wire. The total current draw is the following
formula:
I = V / (Rw + Rl)
Where
I = current
V = applied voltage
Rw = resistance of the wire
Rl = resistance of the load
In fact, your total current will decrease slightly as you increase the
resistance of the wire (use wire that is too small a guage). Since a
pitot heater is a resistor and its resistance doesn't change significantly
with applied voltage, my previous calculations are correct given that the
pitot heater does indeed dissipate 70W or 100W with 12-14V applied.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I acquired the AeroElectric Connection book before starting my electric
system, and while a good book, I would not buy this book again($35!) To
me, it was too deep into 'analyzing' the inner workings of the various
components of the electric system, and not enough about just installing
it in layman terms. If you are the type who is into the 'scientifics' of
electronics, this is the book for you. If you are not that handy with
electronics (like myself), you will probably find this book too deep to
understand without going into alot of study time. What worked for me?
Between Tony Bingelis's books, vans manual, and past issues of Kitplanes
(Jim Weir) and past issues of Sport Aviation, I was usually able to find
the answers. Of course, the rv-list was outstanding for help. I found
vans schematic included in the manual to be about the most complete and
understandable I could find. Please understand, Bob Nuckolls is very
knowledgable, and I certainly respect his experience in his field, but
when a builder friend of mine borrowed my Aero Electric book and had the
same problem, I thought I should put it on the list so that those
wondering what books to buy will be able to make an informed choice.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Rick,
>
>If you have not checked out "The AeroElectric Connection", please do.
>You will find not only wiring diagrams, but answers to nearly any
>question you may have concerning the electrical system on your RV.
>
>You may get more info and a review of "The AeroElectric Connection"
>here:
>
>http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/AeroElectric.html
>
>Good luck with your project,
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>
>
>
>Rick & Barbara Osgood wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that
>would
>> include
>> wire gauge, amps, length for a typical installation. I know that
>there will
>> be variances
>> but I am looking for more of a sanity check list than a definitive
>list.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Rick Osgood
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
> Just a quick note. I copied your latest story yesterday and sent it to my
> online buddy in TX, (who has Lou Gerig's Disease, and is dying and can
> barely function, but his mind is still 100%) and this is his response
this
> morning...
>
> "cool, hey i really enjoyed the story you sent. it was very well written
> makes me want to go flying again."
>
> Thankx again for the cool story
No, the thanks is to you and your friend ! My God, I was so deeply moved by
your wonderful note. Life sometimes presents you with a bolt out of the
blue and I thank you for the gift that you just gave me to know that my
little bit of whimsy gave some one like Tex a moment of warmth and
pleasure.
I am not a writer. I don't know why I began to post these things since
I know that the list was not set up for this reason. But, I guess that once
I got flying again after so long, that I was overcome with the joyful
result that flying this RV gave to me. I actually created this thing and it
rewarded me so. It gave me a belief in myself that my job never did.
This RV brought me back to a time when I was much inclined to risk
failure and disapproval to prove to myself that I could achieve, that I
would find faith in myself, and that if I thought I could do something and
I wanted to bad enough, I could win the day and smell the sweet smell of
success.
I also had some great times flying close with an old pal that has now
passed on and I miss him and what he made possible for me to see and enjoy.
Sometimes we broke the rules of flight and we were all the more happy and
laughing for it.
I guess I just wanted to whisper in the ear of all the guys who
labor alone and wonder if the dream will come alive for them, that yes, if
you have the faith, both in the project and yourself, with no other urging
but your own,...wonderful experience awaits you..eagerly..this RV will give
you more of yourself than you gave to it and will truly embark you on a
voyage of discovery.................All the best..........Buster.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
OOPS, sorry you all. Not for your eyes.........Buster.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
My RV4 has a Vertical Card Compass mounted in the panel, right on the centerline
of the aircraft, near the bottom of the -4's panel, in line with a flock of 6 EI
electronic guages of various sorts. Makes a neat installation with 7 different
2.25 inch digital dials in the bottom row looking at me. A regular Christmas tree
light show on startup.
I know the vertical cards are not supposed to work well when mounted in a panel,
but mine does. I used a 2.25 cutout for the instrument and mounted it with
NONMAGNETIC screws but interspaced the thickest O ring that I could find between
the compass face and the back of the panel to use as a cushion and vibration
dampener. Works great.
Some of my other instruments (not the EI, I think, but some UMA) came with ferrous
screws, which I removed from the proximity of the compass and that ended the local
magnetic disturbances. Even the control stick does not cause a movement. If I
were to do it again, I would order some of the non-ferrous instrument mounting
screws that Spruce sells to rule out any possibility of this kind of interference.
Frank Zeck, RV4 N2ZK Flying before, but crippled now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Assistance |
> FAR Part 43.1(b) specifically excludes experimental aircraft. It states,
> "This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an experimental
> airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a different kind of
> airworthiness certificate had previously been issued for that aircraft." I
> stress the word aircraft so that it is not interpreted to include an
engine.
Then why do changes to the engine or propeller "make it a different
_aircraft_?" When I fly my "airplane," it certainly includes the engine and
prop. Can't leave terra firma without them, ya know. When I wish to speak of
the airplane exclusive of the powerplant, I use the perfectly serviceable word
"airframe." I assume the Feds also know of this word, and would use it
whenever the engine and prop are not being included. If this is not so, then
why is the term "A&P" shorthand for "Airframe and Powerplant" rather than
"Airplane and Powerplant?" Because the latter would be redundant. But I
belabor the point...
>This would also apply to changing pistons or
>magnetos. It is a new and untested airplane. If you change propellers, you
>must notify the FAA (not by a 337) of your change.
My FAA airworthiness inspector specifically allowed the removal of an
electronic ignition system and replacement of same with a magneto with no
paperwork beypond a logbook entry by the repairman; in other words, NOT a
major change. This was done by phone, no paper changed hands. No
notification was required. So much for that theory...
>In general, you can say if your AC received it's airworthiness
>certificate based on the fact it had a certified engine, then the ADs apply.
>If you received an airworthiness certificate based on the fact that your
>engine was not certified, then the ADs don't apply.
>Isn't this fun?!
Here I am inclined to agree with the author 100%. Regrettably. For I do wish
we could sneak around this whole AD business using our experimental / builder
status. Nevertheless, the price one pays for the 25 hr flight test period and
the questionably higher resale value of an engine whose data plate is retained
is that the AD's must still apply. That's too bad for those of us who feel
that, as experimenters, we should have the prerogative of deciding for
ourselves which ADs are reasonable and which are horse hockey. (I believe
manufacturers sometimes cover their backsides from potential litigation by
promulgating ADs when the data just aren't there.)
Overall, a very interesting article. Thanks for posting it.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
<< Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that would
include
wire gauge, amps, length for a typical installation. I know that there will
be variances
but I am looking for more of a sanity check list than a definitive list. >>
If you have access to AutoCAD, I can send you a file for my 6A.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: We was a thinkin.... |
> MCW is close enuf that some could go to OSH early and come over and race
> back. We have a great airport here, lots of room to camp and alot of hotel
> rooms near the airport. We have a Good EAA chapter that would help with
> logistics. We could even work out transportation for your gear to OSH if
> you needed to get weight down.
>
> Is this nuts or is their any interest????? You will notice that nowhere in
> this post did I use a word that rhymes with "pace." This would not be "one
> of those."
Go back and read the first quoted line again. Right there at the end of the
line, is a word that rhymes with "pace." Those adult beverages again...!
Since it won't be anything that rhymes with "pace," I'd love to join you, but
the start and finish are a tad far from my home, so - you guys go for it and
have fun. Be careful "pacing around" up there.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Social Animal/Copperstate RV?Paint |
> one of those pearlescent type paints that change color depending
> upon how you see them. I wonder how durable these paints are and if there
is
> a
> fading problem with the base coat.
I used DuPont Chroma Base / Pearl / Clear on my 6A and get lots of compliments
on the paint job's appearance. The color shift is slight but pretty. The
drawback: despite the kilobuck material bill for this two part urethane
system, an avgas leak ate the clear and part of the base coat off my gear leg
fairing in just two days. Rats!!
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
David,
I cut the notch in one of the skins right up to the aft end of the aft
spar. Remember to file a generous radius in the corner; it will be hidden
underneath the other skin anyway.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN (please don't associate me with the way this state votes)
>At the rear spar we
> need to cut out the inboard skin where it is overlaped. I would think
that
> this cut out should be as little as possible. The plans are not too clear
-
> How much do we cut out??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
No, my problem exists with all the power turned off in the aircraft.
It is something that is small and very localized. The only things that
fit that description are the switches for the audio panel I added as an
afterthought.
Reply:
If you have a RV6/6A tip up canopy, the hinge relese mechanism is steel
and probably magnetized from the welding. And it is the closest thing to
compass
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV6A fuselage skeleton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jefft" <jefft(at)chatlink.com> |
| Subject: | rv8 fuselage jig |
I have a friend who has a RV8 fuselage jig for rent. All aluminum channel,
assembles in 1 hr. Ships in 4'x8'x1' box, weighs about 100 lbs. Just rolled
my fuselage off the jig and found it to work great, a big time saver.
Contact Farn Reed at 541-471-6289 or yours truly off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
On Sun, 8 Nov 1998, Frank Zeck wrote:
>
>
> If I
> were to do it again, I would order some of the non-ferrous instrument mounting
> screws that Spruce sells to rule out
I did. All instrument mounting screws are either stainless (checked for
magnetic attraction) or brass. I even used nonmagnetic stainless screws
for the top fuselage cover at the instrument panel. The most annoying
thing is that I thought about all this when I started and did everything
to make sure there would be no problem with the compass. It is highly
annoying that a mental slipup at the end caused the problem.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Richard Reynolds wrote:
>
> Brian Lloyd wrote:
> No, my problem exists with all the power turned off in the aircraft.
> Reply:
> If you have a RV6/6A tip up canopy, the hinge relese mechanism is steel
> and probably magnetized from the welding. And it is the closest thing to
> compass
RV-4.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | split-S from cruise ... |
... is a no-no with our aircraft. But if you want a manuver that does the
same thing, try this:
1. pull the nose up 45 degrees and let the speed bleed off to about 70
kts;
2. roll inverted;
3. pull through back to level.
You end up going back the way you came and at about the same altitude
where you entered the manuver.
The guy who taught me this manuver, J.C. Brandt, called it a "reverse
cuban" as it is the reverse of half a cuban eight. It so tickled my fancy
I thought I would share it with you.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Wiring diagram
>
writes:
>
><< Has anyone developed a straight forward wiring diagram for a 6A that
would
> include
I became interested in the Load Center shown in one of the recent RV ators.
I called the company (Control Vision) and ordered one, which arrived last
week. The unit seems like a dream come true in certain respects. It will
handle all the standard connections (particularly the avionics) and breaker
functions from one easily mounted PC board, with lots of flexibility for
custom installation. It also provides better circuit protection than a
breaker system, if the technical specs are to be believed. Stuff like keep
alive circuits for clocks, automatic switch off of electronics during
starting, are included. I still have a number of technical questions to ask
the company, but this seems like a solid start.
Aeroelectric Connection does not seem overly "scientific" and provides a
wealth of information, including some straightforward wiring diagrams. Will
let you know how the dialogue with goes with tech support at Control Vision.
For those without a background in electrical engineering (like me), this
stuff takes a while to digest, but after you read it over several times it
will start making sense. Just think about the whole problem as one of
tracing paths for electrons. Between all the sources mentioned in this
thread, there is more than enough information to make a preliminary cut at
wiring design.
Gar Pessel, Fairbanks AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Bearing Block for flaps |
I am finishing the interior of a 6A-baggage floors, seats etc. I am
installing electric flaps which puts the flap mecanism weldment behind the
bulkhead. Question- Where the central bearing block is bolted to the bottom
of 605 and the baggage rib, do you leave the full thickness of the baggage
floors and seat bottoms on top of the bulkhead flange and baggage rib? The
reason for the question is the plans show a bolt plus nut here and
installing these by reaching under the floor would seem to be difficult.
Any suggestions? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elevator Technicians Inc." <elevator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 project for sale |
>
>I have a friend that might be interested. Please tell me more and your
>location.
>Thanks,
I'm in the Chicago Area - I'll send more info at a later date
Attached are some .BMP pictures to unzip
Dale
>
>Bob Cornacchia
>RV6
>
>E-Mail me direct
>RV6ARC(at)AOL.COM
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Main Wing Skins - overlap |
On my RV-6A I cut away the 1 and inch overlap completely from the trailing
edge of the skin to the trailing edge of the rear spar flange. At the
overlap on the main spar, I beveled the top of both the underlying skin and
the top skin.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Puzzling out the cabin frame
A quick question regarding the skin overlap area. .........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: GPS PILOT III |
> I know that using a cellphone in an aircraft is illegal but in an
> emergency I wouldn't hesitate for a nanosecond. Rumor has it....
> that if you pull the power back you can communicate on a cell phone
> in an RV.....
Has anybody installed a cell phone in their aircraft and connected
into the intercom? Using a vehicle hands free kit perhaps?
(Strictly for use on the ground of course....)
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Tell us more about them.. Source, & cost would be nice to know.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Roger Embree [SMTP:rae1(at)planeteer.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 6:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump
>
>
> Today I learned that small electric vacuum pumps were installed in 1982
> Cadillacs and that they have the ability to drive a couple of
> instruments.
>
> Has anyone tried using one of these?
>
> Roger Embree
> Alliston, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Tell us more about them.. Source, & cost would be nice to know.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Roger Embree [SMTP:rae1(at)planeteer.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 6:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump
>
>
> Today I learned that small electric vacuum pumps were installed in 1982
> Cadillacs and that they have the ability to drive a couple of
> instruments.
>
> Has anyone tried using one of these?
>
> Roger Embree
> Alliston, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | split-S from cruise ... |
Brian,
That's a GREAT maneuver! Lots of fun.... BUT... for those trying it. BE
SURE TO SLOW TO 70 FIRST.... Otherwise, you'll gain way too much airspeed on
the pullout.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Brian Lloyd [SMTP:brian(at)lcp.livingston.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 1:37 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: split-S from cruise ...
>
>
> ... is a no-no with our aircraft. But if you want a manuver that does the
> same thing, try this:
>
> 1. pull the nose up 45 degrees and let the speed bleed off to about 70
> kts;
> 2. roll inverted;
> 3. pull through back to level.
>
> You end up going back the way you came and at about the same altitude
> where you entered the manuver.
>
> The guy who taught me this manuver, J.C. Brandt, called it a "reverse
> cuban" as it is the reverse of half a cuban eight. It so tickled my fancy
> I thought I would share it with you.
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
> (916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
> (916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Bearing Block for flaps |
Install platenuts for bolts, not screws, don't have part number they are in
the kit.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuse
http:\\www.flash.net\donmack
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Kellar
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bearing Block for flaps
I am finishing the interior of a 6A-baggage floors, seats etc. I am
installing electric flaps which puts the flap mecanism weldment behind the
bulkhead. Question- Where the central bearing block is bolted to the bottom
of 605 and the baggage rib, do you leave the full thickness of the baggage
floors and seat bottoms on top of the bulkhead flange and baggage rib? The
reason for the question is the plans show a bolt plus nut here and
installing these by reaching under the floor would seem to be difficult.
Any suggestions? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
Brian,
The only difference between a split-S and your Half Reverse-Cuban is the
initial 45deg pull up. Wish you'd share with us what happened?
>
>... is a no-no with our aircraft. But if you want a manuver that does the
>same thing, try this:
>
>1. pull the nose up 45 degrees and let the speed bleed off to about 70
>kts;
>2. roll inverted;
>3. pull through back to level.
>
>You end up going back the way you came and at about the same altitude
>where you entered the manuver.
>
>The guy who taught me this manuver, J.C. Brandt, called it a "reverse
>cuban" as it is the reverse of half a cuban eight. It so tickled my fancy
>I thought I would share it with you.
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
>(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
>(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Binzer" <robinzer(at)seidata.com> |
| Subject: | Cell-phone Illegal? |
What FAR covers the cell-phone making it illegal to use on VFR
Experimental Aircraft? I can see why it may be illegal on a commercial
flight, but on our homebuilts??
Bob Binzer 6-a Tailfeathers 98%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 6A nose gear test |
FWIW department:
Pulled off the nose gear this weekend and tested for cracks, all looks OK!
Thanks to the person on the list who suggested the die penetrant kit from
McMaster Carr. It was cheap and easy to use.
For reference, my nose gear was shipped in the summer of '95. It currently
has 250 hours on it, mostly asphalt landings, O-360 w/c.s. prop. For those
who are putting this off, do it ASAP. It's easy, and you'll sleep better at
night knowing the results, even if you DO find a crack.
Happy hunting.
Dave Hudgins,
Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
I agree with Von that the book is heavy on theory. It is a combination
Theory-and-Practice book with too much on the Theory side to suit me;
however, I haven't found anything better, so I wade through the theory to
get to the practice sections.
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy fitting
Hampshire, IL
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Wiring diagram
>
>I acquired the AeroElectric Connection book before starting my electric
>system, and while a good book, I would not buy this book again($35!) To
>me, it was too deep into 'analyzing' the inner workings of the various
>components of the electric system, and not enough about just installing
>it in layman terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Is anybody on the list from the UK.
I heard that there is a write-up on our book 18 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR in
the British flying magazine. I'd really like to see a copy of it. Can
someone tell the the name of the magazine, whether they have a web site,
and possibly even scan and e-mail the page that the article is on?
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>What FAR covers the cell-phone making it illegal to use on VFR
>Experimental Aircraft? I can see why it may be illegal on a commercial
>flight, but on our homebuilts??
>
>Bob Binzer 6-a Tailfeathers 98%
>
It is not an FAR but an FCC rule that does not allow airbourne use of a
cellphone. I do not have the rule but the reason is so one cellphone
will not tie up mutiple cells.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
This thread was coverd previously. Cell phones are banded on comm. flights for
potential interference reasons to the flight only. There is no FAR stanting
you cannot use in a GenAv plane...one the ground or in the air. Though in the
air may be a problem due to you contacting serveral cells at the same time confusing
the systems in use.
Check the archives!
Gary RV-6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | RV Builder Assistance |
These are the comments from the Earl Lawrence of EAA government programs.
He gave me permission to post. Note the comments about the ADs. Seems the
government doesn't know either.
From: Earl Lawrence <elawrence(at)eaa.org>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>Cy:
>Thanks for the comments. I would not write the article the same way
>today the point I was making referring to the aircraft not engine was
>that some inspectors were excluding the airframe or engine I should have
>said "I stress the word aircraft so that it is not interpreted to
>include "only" an
>engine."
>The point the commented makes about his inspector saying just make a log
>book entry may put him in violation of his operating limitations. As the
>operating limitation says that the owner must receive a response "in
>writing" from the FAA not just call them and make a log book entry. Of
>course this is all dependant on if it is a major change and that is a
>judgment call.
>Also since I wrote this article FAA Legal has said that AD's do not
>apply to anything on a experimental aircraft. An FAA task force is
>looking at this issue and has asked FAA Legal to put this opinion in
>writing. Until FAA legal puts it in writing the issue of AD's will not
>be fully resolved.
>Earl Lawrence
>
>
>From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)accessus.net]
>Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 10:57 PM
>To: Earl Lawrence
>Subject: Fw: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>
>
>A comment on your Who can repair an experimental article.
>From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 10:33 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Builder Assistance
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>> FAR Part 43.1(b) specifically excludes experimental aircraft. It
>states,
>>> "This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an experimental
>>> airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a different kind
>of
>>> airworthiness certificate had previously been issued for that
>aircraft."
>I
>>> stress the word aircraft so that it is not interpreted to include an
>>engine.
>>
>>Then why do changes to the engine or propeller "make it a different
>>_aircraft_?" When I fly my "airplane," it certainly includes the
>engine
>and
>>prop. Can't leave terra firma without them, ya know. When I wish to
>speak
>of
>>the airplane exclusive of the powerplant, I use the perfectly
>serviceable
>word
>>"airframe." I assume the Feds also know of this word, and would use it
>>whenever the engine and prop are not being included. If this is not
>so,
>then
>>why is the term "A&P" shorthand for "Airframe and Powerplant" rather
>than
>>"Airplane and Powerplant?" Because the latter would be redundant. But
>I
>>belabor the point...
>>
>>>This would also apply to changing pistons or
>>>magnetos. It is a new and untested airplane. If you change propellers,
>you
>>>must notify the FAA (not by a 337) of your change.
>>
>>My FAA airworthiness inspector specifically allowed the removal of an
>>electronic ignition system and replacement of same with a magneto with
>no
>>paperwork beypond a logbook entry by the repairman; in other words, NOT
>a
>>major change. This was done by phone, no paper changed hands. No
>>notification was required. So much for that theory...
>>
>>>In general, you can say if your AC received it's airworthiness
>>>certificate based on the fact it had a certified engine, then the ADs
>apply.
>>>If you received an airworthiness certificate based on the fact that
>your
>>>engine was not certified, then the ADs don't apply.
>>>Isn't this fun?!
>>
>>Here I am inclined to agree with the author 100%. Regrettably. For I
>do
>wish
>>we could sneak around this whole AD business using our experimental /
>builder
>>status. Nevertheless, the price one pays for the 25 hr flight test
>period
>and
>>the questionably higher resale value of an engine whose data plate is
>retained
>>is that the AD's must still apply. That's too bad for those of us who
>feel
>>that, as experimenters, we should have the prerogative of deciding for
>>ourselves which ADs are reasonable and which are horse hockey. (I
>believe
>>manufacturers sometimes cover their backsides from potential litigation
>by
>>promulgating ADs when the data just aren't there.)
>>
>>Overall, a very interesting article. Thanks for posting it.
>>
>>-BB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>http://www.matronics.com
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
|I was told by a cell-phone salesman that the reason was to do with
transmission range while flying and the public's equipment not being
discreet.....in other words non-selective as far as area the call was
placed from. He said it sometimes shows up as the call was placed from
several places at the same time.
A Good Day To You!
Denny RV-6 Near done!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
No FAR, It is an FCC ruling. Has to do with affecting other cells blanking
them out and causing all sorts of problems. I think the fine is at least
$10,000 per incident and they do record everything. After all that is how
they find and bill you for each call.
From: Robert D. Binzer <robinzer(at)seidata.com>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
>
>What FAR covers the cell-phone making it illegal to use on VFR
>Experimental Aircraft? I can see why it may be illegal on a commercial
>flight, but on our homebuilts??
>
>Bob Binzer 6-a Tailfeathers 98%
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Kirkpatrick" <rv6flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing root platenuts? |
Greetings,
I have a question and after faithfully searching the archive I could not
find a final answer.
The question: Do you have to use platenuts to attach the bottom fuse
skins to the wing root rib or can you use pop rivets?
I don't intend to remove the wings in the future and if I have too I can
always drill out the pop rivets and put in platenuts when I have it
apart. I just hate to take the wings off again for no other reason than
to install the platenuts now.
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV-6A Final assy.
Rio Rancho NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
<<>
How does the FCC know that you are not in a car doing 160+ MPH? Solution:
fly slow flight when using the phone!
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
FCC not FAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
It's not the speed as much as the altitude. Anything more than a
couple hundred feet AGL, a cell phone can likely 'see' several cell
towers.
-Larry
RV-8
http://larry.bowen.com
> How does the FCC know that you are not in a car doing 160+ MPH?
Solution:
> fly slow flight when using the phone!
>
> Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tillman, James A." <tillman.james.a(at)fulton.k12.ga.us> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
howdy, in the army we snake pilots called it a return to target.
jim tillman
rv8 80655
finishing left fuel tank
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 1:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: split-S from cruise ...
>
>... is a no-no with our aircraft. But if you want a manuver that does the
>same thing, try this:
>
>1. pull the nose up 45 degrees and let the speed bleed off to about 70
>kts;
>2. roll inverted;
>3. pull through back to level.
>
>You end up going back the way you came and at about the same altitude
>where you entered the manuver.
>
>The guy who taught me this manuver, J.C. Brandt, called it a "reverse
>cuban" as it is the reverse of half a cuban eight. It so tickled my fancy
>I thought I would share it with you.
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
>(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
>(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Cell-phone Illegal? |
The rule downunder is the use of mobiles above 5000ft AGL is not permitted.
The reasoning is as below. In airliners they dislike mobiles since they can jam
the navigation equipment (some GPS's don't like them, particularly the digital
mobiles and satellite phones).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
Date: 09-11-98 09:23
>
>What FAR covers the cell-phone making it illegal to use on VFR
>Experimental Aircraft? I can see why it may be illegal on a commercial
>flight, but on our homebuilts??
>
>Bob Binzer 6-a Tailfeathers 98%
>
It is not an FAR but an FCC rule that does not allow airbourne use of a
cellphone. I do not have the rule but the reason is so one cellphone
will not tie up mutiple cells.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
I've tried to use mine in flight, but the cabin is so noisy that I couldn't
hear anything. I still use it to signal the wife when I'm returning home from
a long trip and about to fly over the house. I just dial and wait long enough
for it to connect and hang up. With the caller ID, she knows its me, and I'll
soon be flying over on the way to the airport. I've never gotten any notice's
or anything with my billing, but I always make sure I'm around 1000' agl
first. BTW, the salesman never mentioned not to use it in an aircraft,
although I had heard it was discouraged, before.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | support(at)matronics.com (Matronics Technical Support 925-606-1001) |
"Re: Message to List Contained MIME..." (Nov 8, 2:04pm)
| Subject: | Re: Enclosures to the List |
>Matt
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>You say...
>>
>> The message you posted to the List below contained MIME enclosure data and
>> cannot be read by some.....
>>
>
> I don't really understand, this was a standard JPEG file of the plane,
>other people have posted pix in fact they are often more important than the
>queries which are often difficult to understand. I think a pic showing how
>neat the cowl looks is better than pages of explanation. Every single user
>of Internet Explorer etc should be able to open a .JPG file. No? How
>about trying it.
> Bernie G
Hi Bernie and Listers et al,
I have filters on incoming List messages looking for MIME, HTML, and
UUEncoding. When any these encodings are encountered, the message is
returned to the sender with a canned message prepended indicating "why"
the message was not posted.
A few email applications if configured in the default manner, will include
either a MIME or UUEncoded "enclosure" at the end of each message that
is essentially "state information" for the email program and optional text
formatting data. These typically add 3-5KB to the message - data that
is completely of no use to most people. If everyone on the Lists used an
email application that sent this data, it would add 15-24MB of totally
useless data to postings and the archive each month! Add to that the 5-10MB
of "legitimate" bitmap posting that people attempt each month, and well,
you get the picture.
Also keep in mind that each and every post goes out to anywhere from 300
to 1000 people - most of which are downloading over a 28,800 baud modem.
A posting to the RV-List that included a 100KB enclosure (very common
high quality JPG bitmap size) would mean over *100MB* of data being resent
in total working the Internet connection hard!
Long ago, I had to disallow posting of all forms of enclosures to the Lists.
The archive is huge and growing everyday, making searches take longer and
just general processing of the archive more cumbersome. One post containing
a number of large bitmap enclosures can be as much data as a month's worth
of text postings. The RV-List Archive is currently at 55MB and that doesn't
include any enclosures - imagine how huge it would be by now if I had...?
Based on what I've seen (I get notification whenever a message is rejected)
I would estimate that the RV-List archive would be in the 1GB range by now -
a size that would be totally unmanageable. While the numbers for the
Kolb and Zenith lists are lower, the same thing applies.
If you have bitmaps you would like to share with the rest of the List, I
would be more than happy to add them to the Bitmaps section of the respective
List webpage. Please let me know.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
Technical Support | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | support(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com W.W.W. | Specializing in Aircraft Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root platenuts? |
Hello,
My plans, RV8, say that the skin attach to the 3 most inboard (wing walk
area) ribs can be the appropriate(MK-319-BS ?)pop rivets (as the wing walk
pad will cover them), or the ribs can be left clecoed to the spars until
final riveting of the skins at which time, one by one, you can use regular
rivets. It also mentions 'special' bucking bars. Oh, my plans also
mention to not forget the doubler plate!
Of course you would have to verify that this would be applicable to your
RV6.
On my plans(RV8), the platenuts appear to be exclusively for the gas tank
and access covers, not the skins. Yours?
Regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 - Wings
Moscow, Idaho USA
98.11.09 , you wrote:
>
>Greetings,
The question: Do you have to use platenuts to attach the bottom fuse
>skins to the wing root rib or can you use pop rivets?
>
>Pat Kirkpatrick
>RV-6A Final assy.
>Rio Rancho NM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root platenuts? |
>
>
> The question: Do you have to use platenuts to attach the bottom fuse
> skins to the wing root rib or can you use pop rivets?
>
> I don't intend to remove the wings in the future and if I have too I can
> always drill out the pop rivets and put in platenuts when I have it
> apart. I just hate to take the wings off again for no other reason than
> to install the platenuts now.
>
> Pat Kirkpatrick
> RV-6A Final assy.
> Rio Rancho NM
>
The plate nut assembly lends some strength to the fuselage/wing assembly. I
doubt that pop rivets would have the same strength.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
>
> It's not the speed as much as the altitude. Anything more than a
> couple hundred feet AGL, a cell phone can likely 'see' several cell
> towers.
okay, i've never owned a cell phone, so i have to ask: does the FCC
supply you with the regulations, or make you sign some kind of license
agreement, such that you agree or are informed that it is illegal to
attempt to use the cell phone in conditions where it is likely to be
able to pick up several such relay towers?
in other words, i understand why you shouldn't do it, for practical
reasons. but does the FCC simply discourage it, or do they prosecute?
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root platenuts? |
Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>
>
>
> On my plans(RV8), the platenuts appear to be exclusively for the gas tank
> and access covers, not the skins. Yours?
>
> Regards
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - Wings
> Moscow, Idaho USA
>
Vince - look again a little further back in your plans. The fuselage skins under
the seat area are screwed/platenuted to the inboard rib of the wing to add
strength. The upper side of the wing also uses plate nuts but only to hold the
trim panel on. I believe the spacing is 2 1/2". The plans are not real clear on
this and take a bit of study to find the drawings. There is more in the archives
too.
DGM RV-6 Finishing canopy trim
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brogley <mikeb(at)lsil.com> |
| Subject: | HOTCOAT home powdercoating kit |
I saw a home powdercoating kit on the tube over the weekend (Hot Rod
Magazine Sunday on TNN) and tracked it down - It's available from
Eastwood starting at $150 - details at:
http://www.hotcoat.com/
www.hotcoat.com/
I'm not affiliated with them and I haven't tried it, but it looks
interesting for steel parts if the economics can be made to work
(i.e., vs. how much a powdercoat shop would charge for several small
batches).
The big downside is that it appears you need a dedicated oven to do
the 400-deg (F) curing (the powder gives off toxic gasses so you're
not supposed to cook food in the same oven ever), but for small parts
a toaster oven is said to be OK - Wal-Mart-aircraft-construction-
supply-house here I come...
Mike Brogley
RV-8 sn80241
San Jose, CA USA
mikeb(at)lsil.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
This will all change in the future. Future cell phones will become
satellite phones.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>It's not the speed as much as the altitude. Anything more than a
>couple hundred feet AGL, a cell phone can likely 'see' several cell
>towers.
>
>-Larry
>RV-8
>http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
>
>> How does the FCC know that you are not in a car doing 160+ MPH?
>Solution:
>> fly slow flight when using the phone!
>>
>> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Climb Performance |
A local Rv6 builder is getting the following climb performance,
wondering if this is normal, comments welcome.
Auto engine turning an aymar-demuth 68x74 prop. Static RPM 2250 , full
speed (180 mph) RPM 2700. These RPM figures indicate 160 HP according to
the Prop manufacturer.
A climb from 1500 to 3500' @ 90 MPH and 1750 LB gives 750 FPM.
What is the best climb speed? The prop seems pitched correctly regarding
static and max speed RPM. Wondering if we should be going to a finer
pitch as Vans suggests climb rates of 1350 FPM on 150HP @ 1600LB gross?
(Did he use different props for the climb and top speed tests?)
Aircraft does not have fairings on the legs or wheels yet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root platenuts? |
I think the platenuts are actually there to add strength - I don't think
rivets would be enough. However, instead of removing the wings, I drilled
the holes for the screws and slid the wings out about 6". It was then easy
to install the platenuts and dimple the skin then slide it back together.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>The question: Do you have to use platenuts to attach the bottom fuse
>skins to the wing root rib or can you use pop rivets?
>
>I don't intend to remove the wings in the future and if I have too I can
>always drill out the pop rivets and put in platenuts when I have it
>apart. I just hate to take the wings off again for no other reason than
>to install the platenuts now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid for sale. |
A friend has a Navaid wing lever installed in his flying -6 and wants
to sell it. He will be installing a 2 axis AP. He said he would sell
it to me for $1,400. Is this too much? I do not have AP and would
prefer a 2 axis unit but do not want to spend the $.
If I do not buy it and you want it, please
e-mail me OFF list.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cellular Phone Use - FCC Statement |
________________________________________________________________________________
http://www.fcc.gov/wtb/cellular/cellfaq.html
9. Can I use my cellular phone in aircraft (to include hot air balloons,
etc.)
Answer:
Section 22.925 of the Commission's rules, 47 CFR Part 22, provides that
cellular telephones installed in or carried aboard airplanes, balloons or
anyother
type of aircraft must not be operated while such aircraft are airborne (not
touching the ground). When any aircraft leaves the ground, all cellular
telephones on
board that aircraft must be turned off. The following notice must be posted
on or near each cellular telephone installed in any aircraft:
"The use of cellular telephones while this aircraft is airborne is
prohibited by FCC rules, and the violation of this rule could result in
suspension of service
and/or a fine. The use of cellular telephones while this aircraft is on the
ground is subject to FAA regulations."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
"Besing, Paul" wrote:
>
>
> << blanking
> them out and causing all sorts of problems. I think the fine is at least
> $10,000 per incident and they do record everything. After all that is how
> they find and bill you for each call.>>
>
> How does the FCC know that you are not in a car doing 160+ MPH? Solution:
> fly slow flight when using the phone!
>
> Paul Besing
>
Or what if I was on the top of Mt Hood here in Oregon would not that
same as being at ten thousand feet in my airplane?
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid for sale. |
The last I knew, they were going for $1300 new
>
>
> A friend has a Navaid wing lever installed in his flying -6 and wants
> to sell it. He will be installing a 2 axis AP. He said he would sell
> it to me for $1,400. Is this too much? I do not have AP and would
> prefer a 2 axis unit but do not want to spend the $.
>
>
> If I do not buy it and you want it, please
>
> e-mail me OFF list.
>
>
> ==
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
> Flying in So. CA, USA
> RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
Actually Jerry, that would not be the same unless you are falling off the
mountain. And even that probably wouldn't matter because you would fall
essentially straight down. You see as you are calling from the mountain the
cell tower that picks up the strongest signal will be the one that
"registers" your call. Since you are not moving at say Mach .2 or greater
then a cell tower will be able to lock in on your phone and thus no
confusion of the technology. Why do you think cell towers have three
antennae on them? They measure the direction and strength of you signal so
they can pass you onto the next tower without interruption. Just go to
Timberline Lodge and order the Rabbit Medallions or Smoked Salmon with a
bottle of San Michelle wine and don't worry about it! Life is Good!
Al PS.. Call me from there on your cell phone!
> Or what if I was on the top of Mt Hood here in Oregon would not that
>same as being at ten thousand feet in my airplane?
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid for sale. |
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
>
>
> A friend has a Navaid wing lever installed in his flying -6 and wants
> to sell it. He will be installing a 2 axis AP. He said he would sell
> it to me for $1,400. Is this too much? I do not have AP and would
> prefer a 2 axis unit but do not want to spend the $.
>
> If I do not buy it and you want it, please
>
> e-mail me OFF list.
>
>
> ==
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
> Flying in So. CA, USA
> RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
Sounds like a lot to me Gary especially if used, I paid $1300 for mine
brand new about three or four years ago.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
| Subject: | Cell-phone Illegal? |
It is ok to use a Cell in an emergency. I had a good freind do it to
contact the tower in a Comm out emergency. No fine, no harm, no foul.
Bryan A. Gembusia
> From: Besing, Paul [SMTP:PBesing(at)pinacor.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:51 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
>
>
> << blanking
> them out and causing all sorts of problems. I think the fine is at least
> $10,000 per incident and they do record everything. After all that is how
> they find and bill you for each call.>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Binzer" <robinzer(at)seidata.com> |
| Subject: | Cell phone education |
Hi listers all,
Thank you all for the education on the cell-phone. I can see the
problem. Guess I won't have to buy one just yet. We will see what the
new ones come up with. Bob Binzer, 6-a tailfeathers, Madison, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
No by the number of cells that you are making contact over a very wide area.
From: Besing, Paul <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
>
><<blanking
>them out and causing all sorts of problems. I think the fine is at least
>$10,000 per incident and they do record everything. After all that is how
>they find and bill you for each call.>>
>
>
>How does the FCC know that you are not in a car doing 160+ MPH? Solution:
>fly slow flight when using the phone!
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Check the Archives First! |
Hi,
I wonder if everyone knows how??
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
>
>I've tried to use mine in flight, but the cabin is so noisy that I couldn't
>hear anything. I still use it to signal the wife when I'm returning home from
>a long trip and about to fly over the house.
It is possible to detect that the phone is being used from a plane because
several (many) cell towers will hear the signal equally well and the voting
process chews up a LOT of the network trying to figure out to which cell
site you should be talking. The fine can be substantial.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Notifying family on the ground |
>
>I've tried to use mine in flight, but the cabin is so noisy that I couldn't
>hear anything. I still use it to signal the wife when I'm returning home from
>a long trip and about to fly over the house.
If you want to notify your wife of your impending arrival, get a low-cost
scanner from someplace like Radio Shack and let her monitor your progress
that way.
I used to commute every day and had all the enroute ATC frequencies
programmed into the scanner. My wife and kids could hear me coming from up
to 30 minutes away. It meant that the hangar was open when I landed and it
meant that, when I couldn't get into the airport because of WX, she was
already on the way to my alternate. I didn't have to wait nearly as long
as if I had to call her from my alternate destination.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
>
>> It's not the speed as much as the altitude. Anything more than a
>> couple hundred feet AGL, a cell phone can likely 'see' several cell
>> towers.
>
>okay, i've never owned a cell phone, so i have to ask: does the FCC
>supply you with the regulations, or make you sign some kind of license
>agreement, such that you agree or are informed that it is illegal to
>attempt to use the cell phone in conditions where it is likely to be
>able to pick up several such relay towers?
It is buried in the fine print.
>in other words, i understand why you shouldn't do it, for practical
>reasons. but does the FCC simply discourage it, or do they prosecute?
They can prosecute. Ignorance of the regs is not considered a mitigating
circumstance. Remember you are dealing with a federal agency that is, in
many ways, just as caprecious as the FAA.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
>I became interested in the Load Center shown in one of the recent RV ators.
>I called the company (Control Vision) and ordered one, which arrived last
>week. The unit seems like a dream come true in certain respects. It will
>handle all the standard connections (particularly the avionics) and breaker
>functions from one easily mounted PC board, with lots of flexibility for
>custom installation. It also provides better circuit protection than a
>breaker system, if the technical specs are to be believed. Stuff like keep
>alive circuits for clocks, automatic switch off of electronics during
>starting, are included. I still have a number of technical questions to ask
>the company, but this seems like a solid start.
I bought one too. I returned it when I started realizing that there was no
option for customizing the buss and there was no option for a back-up power
source (I bought my two years ago and they may have changed things since
then). I ended up using the automotive fuseblock approach espoused by Bob
Nuckols (AeroElectric Connection) and have to agree that it is more
flexible and no more difficult or time consuming than wiring up the Control
Vision load center.
>Aeroelectric Connection does not seem overly "scientific" and provides a
>wealth of information, including some straightforward wiring diagrams. Will
>let you know how the dialogue with goes with tech support at Control Vision.
>For those without a background in electrical engineering (like me), this
>stuff takes a while to digest, but after you read it over several times it
>will start making sense. Just think about the whole problem as one of
>tracing paths for electrons. Between all the sources mentioned in this
>thread, there is more than enough information to make a preliminary cut at
>wiring design.
I find that lots of people look at the electrical system and panic because
it appears so complicated. The trick is that you have to look at it as the
same thing repeated over and over again. Building an airplane is a
daunting task until you realize that, for much of it, you are essentially
pounding in the same rivet thousands of times. :^) The electrical system
is a piece of cake by comparison.
There are several "one of" circuits you have to get right first. To my
mind they are:
1. battery to contactor (master) to buss;
2. buss to contactor to starter;
3. alternator to fuse/breaker to buss;
4. buss to regulator/controller to breaker to alternator field.
Then there is the same thing repeated over and over again:
5. buss to fuse/breaker to switch to load
It gets only slightly more complicated if you go with the split-buss
approach recommended by Bob in the AeroElectric Connection. That adds a
diode (one-way path) from the main buss to the essential buss and extra
wiring (fuse and switch) from the battery to the essential buss.
The key is to take it one piece at a time instead of trying to digest the
the whole electrical system all at once. If you do that you will
(hopefully) find your confusion lessening.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>
>Brian,
>The only difference between a split-S and your Half Reverse-Cuban is the
>initial 45deg pull up. Wish you'd share with us what happened?
Well, nothing untoward happened. It did what I expected/hoped it would.
Airplane and I are both still well, thank you. ;^)
There are often times I want to reverse course and I would like to do a
split-S. Doing a split-S from cruise (typically 135-149 kts IAS in my
RV-4) will normally result in the aircraft greatly exceeding the 181 kts
IAS Vne. (Yes, someone actually did it once in my aircraft before I got it
and they figured that it must have hit about 250 kts IAS.) The book says
(as I recall, book not in front of me) that entry speed for a split-S in
the RV-4 is about 70 kts. By doing the intial 45 degree pull up you are
trading airspeed for altitude and getting the speed down to where you can
do the split-S safely. When you pull level at the bottom going the
opposite way, you should be about at the same altitude and airspeed where
you did the initial pitch up.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Step Installation |
Listers,
Sorry to clutter the list with this, but would Phil who e-mailed me
regarding the flush mount step installation please e-mail me off-line. I
accidentally deleted your message. Thanks.
Dale Wotring
Ridgefield, WA
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Leg Labeling |
In a stunningly brilliant move, I let the nice tags identifying the right and
left gear legs get separated from the legs while I was priming, and now I
can't identify which is which. In the manual (Really, I do occasionally read
it.) it is stated that the legs are identified by R & L stampings near the
top. I can't find the stampings. Perhaps the primer is too thick and is
hiding the marks. Maybe there are no marks. Maybe my eyesight is failing.
Maybe someone could look at their (conventional -6 legs) and tell me exactly
where the R&L marks are.
In any case, how do I distinguish the #!!%&!! right and left legs?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"Re: RV-List: Check the Archives First!" (Nov 9, 7:48pm)
| Subject: | Re: Check the Archives First! |
>
>Hi,
>
>I wonder if everyone knows how??
>
>hal
Hum, good point. I've reworded this Tip as follows:
Matt
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page, FAQ or Yeller Pages first. For instance, posts requesting
Van's phone number are just not appropriate.
You may search the archives using the List Archive Search Engine found
at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
> If you want to notify your wife of your impending arrival, get a low-cost
> scanner from someplace like Radio Shack and let her monitor your progress
> that way.
>
> I used to commute every day and had all the enroute ATC frequencies
> programmed into the scanner. My wife and kids could hear me coming from up
> to 30 minutes away. It meant that the hangar was open when I landed
Brian, didn't it also mean the fam had to listen to chatter on those freq's
for hours on end awaiting Dad's arrival over the radio horizon? My wife would
never go for that (hence 144 Mhz capability built into my panel - but not
everyone has a licensed XYL...) My question: Is there an aviation frequency
available for (legal) use by a ground station other than an FBO or other
airport facility (such as the pilot's home) for ground-to-air communication?
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
> It is possible to detect that the phone is being used from a plane because
> several (many) cell towers will hear the signal equally well and the voting
> process chews up a LOT of the network trying to figure out to which cell
> site you should be talking. The fine can be substantial.
Sort of makes you want to take a phone to the nearest tall building or
mountaintop and tie up a few cells just to show them, doesn't it.
I agree with Cecil Hatfield; one day soon these terrestrial cell towers will
sit as useless as Loran A stations and VOR's, while we chat away on satellite
networks that care not how high or fast we travel. Meanwhile, I cannot shake
the feeling that my terrestrial network carrier is discriminating against
pilots. I'll believe otherwise when they make boaters turn their phones off.
<>
Installed? Who's going to install one of these in an RV? I'll just carry mine
in my pocket. ;-)
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HOTCOAT home powdercoating kit |
Just for a frame of reference, I recently had most of my fuselage parts
done in one batch for $120. It included the engine mount, main gear, tail
spring, tail wheel, rudder bars, control stick assy, seat belt brackets and
rudder cable connect straps. Seemed pretty reasonable to me. Best of all,
no work! I'll get my canopy frame done as soon as I'm finished fitting it.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
On Monday, November 09, 1998 3:26 PM, Mike Brogley [SMTP:mikeb(at)lsil.com]
wrote:
>
> I saw a home powdercoating kit on the tube over the weekend (Hot Rod
> Magazine Sunday on TNN) and tracked it down - It's available from
> Eastwood starting at $150 - details at:
>
> http://www.hotcoat.com/
> www.hotcoat.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing Gear Leg Labeling |
Kyle,
Since yours were marked L&R I assume they're predrilled. If so, slip them
into the engine mount and it will be readily apparent which is which. If
they're not drilled it doesn't matter.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
On Monday, November 09, 1998 9:43 PM, KBoatri144(at)aol.com
[SMTP:KBoatri144(at)aol.com] wrote:
>
> In a stunningly brilliant move, I let the nice tags identifying the right
and
> left gear legs get separated from the legs while I was priming, and now I
> can't identify which is which. In the manual (Really, I do occasionally
read
> it.) it is stated that the legs are identified by R & L stampings near
the
> top. I can't find the stampings. Perhaps the primer is too thick and is
> hiding the marks. Maybe there are no marks. Maybe my eyesight is
failing.
> Maybe someone could look at their (conventional -6 legs) and tell me
exactly
> where the R&L marks are.
>
> In any case, how do I distinguish the #!!%&!! right and left legs?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Brian,
> >The only difference between a split-S and your Half Reverse-Cuban is the
> >initial 45deg pull up. Wish you'd share with us what happened?
>
> Well, nothing untoward happened. It did what I expected/hoped it would.
> Airplane and I are both still well, thank you. ;^)
>
> There are often times I want to reverse course and I would like to do a
> split-S. Doing a split-S from cruise (typically 135-149 kts IAS in my
> RV-4) will normally result in the aircraft greatly exceeding the 181 kts
> IAS Vne. (Yes, someone actually did it once in my aircraft before I got it
> and they figured that it must have hit about 250 kts IAS.) The book says
> (as I recall, book not in front of me) that entry speed for a split-S in
> the RV-4 is about 70 kts. By doing the intial 45 degree pull up you are
> trading airspeed for altitude and getting the speed down to where you can
> do the split-S safely. When you pull level at the bottom going the
> opposite way, you should be about at the same altitude and airspeed where
> you did the initial pitch up.
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
Brian
Is your RV-4 painted blue or used to be painted blue? I talked to a
man at Merced one year that said someone did a split-s from cruise
in his RV-4 and they figured that it was doing at least 300 mph on
recovery. And they had to rebuild the elevators. Just wondered if
it was the same airplane.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
"Bryan A. Gembusia" wrote:
>
>
> It is ok to use a Cell in an emergency. I had a good freind do it to
> contact the tower in a Comm out emergency. No fine, no harm, no foul.
>
> Bryan A. Gembusia
>
This reminds me of a case we had here in the Pacific Northwest this
past year. A man and his wife and baby went down in a Cessna in bad
weather and a snow storm coming in, the pilot sadly did not make it
but his wife was able to call out on their cell phone while hanging
upside down in the airplane and unable to reach the baby in the back
seat. Search and rescue say they probably would not have made it in
time to save them if it had not been for the cell phone. I usually
have my cell phone with me in the airplane just in case.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Climb Performance |
>
>A local Rv6 builder is getting the following climb performance,
>wondering if this is normal, comments welcome.
>
>Auto engine turning an aymar-demuth 68x74 prop. Static RPM 2250 , full
>speed (180 mph) RPM 2700. These RPM figures indicate 160 HP according
>to
>the Prop manufacturer.
>
>A climb from 1500 to 3500' @ 90 MPH and 1750 LB gives 750 FPM.
>
>What is the best climb speed? The prop seems pitched correctly
>regarding
>static and max speed RPM. Wondering if we should be going to a finer
>pitch as Vans suggests climb rates of 1350 FPM on 150HP @ 1600LB
>gross?
>(Did he use different props for the climb and top speed tests?)
>
>Aircraft does not have fairings on the legs or wheels yet
>
>
>
At what altitude is the 180 MPH being attained?
This is an important factor because the engine HP out put will be quite
different at 8500 ft than what it is at 2500 ft.
180 MPH with no gear leg fairings or wheel pants is really quite good.
The fairings and wheel pants together could be good for about another 15
MPH (see the article in the latest RVator).
Most RV's seem to have a best ROC at between 105 and 115 MPH depending on
the ASI calibration.
Van's claimed performance #'s are for standard day sea level I believe.
Even at sea level you can not get full rated HP from a normally aspirated
engine using a fixed pitch prop.
2250 RPM is a little lower than I would typically like for a static RPM
with a fixed pitch prop., but it may be particular to this prop on this
powerplant installation.
Does the RPM come up much during the takeoff roll before becoming
airborne?
At the very least have him try using a higher indicated climb speed.
The higher gross weight will also have some effect, I think an extra 150
lbs works out to about 50 FPM.
In fact, doing some timed climb tests using different airspeeds is a very
good thing to do during the flight test period of a new RV!
Test and find out what the actual #'s are for his airplane.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | RV 6A and RV6 C of G |
The RV 6A that we did the performance tests with the Sensenich prop weighs
1053 lbs.and is equipped with a 0360 fuel injected with the battery mounted
in the standard
location . It flys in cruise with only 3/16 in. defletion on the trim tab.
My RV6 does about the same even with the CS prop. From this I feel both the
6A and 6 can handle the wieght forward.
Eustace Bowhay Started 6A fuselage this week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Leg Labeling |
>
>In a stunningly brilliant move, I let the nice tags identifying the
>right and
>left gear legs get separated from the legs while I was priming, and
>now I
>can't identify which is which. In the manual (Really, I do
>occasionally read
>it.) it is stated that the legs are identified by R & L stampings near
>the
>top. I can't find the stampings. Perhaps the primer is too thick and
>is
>hiding the marks. Maybe there are no marks. Maybe my eyesight is
>failing.
>Maybe someone could look at their (conventional -6 legs) and tell me
>exactly
>where the R&L marks are.
>
>In any case, how do I distinguish the #!!%&!! right and left legs?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
>
I believe they are stamped on the top end of the leg on top of the nob.
The area that would still be visible when the leg was installed in the
mount socket.
If you are priming can I assume that you have already drilled the legs to
the mount or that you have a mount/leg set that came pre drilled?
If so, then the legs should only go in one way, and still have the
retention bolt holes line up with the axles properly aligned with each
other. I think?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heater Amps |
I usually wire pitot heaters with 14AWG wire driven
by a 15A breaker/fuse. A tad heavy for a 100 watt
tube but sufficient to carry a slightly larger one
if necessary in the future wihtout having to rewire
the airplane . . . in the mean time, a small heater
will enjoy higher supply voltage due to lower wire
drops.
At 08:27 AM 11/9/98, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Starting to run the wires through my 6A wings and to install the correct
>>wire size I need to know the amperage draw of a blade type heated pitot
>>from a Piper Senica.
>>
>>My local mechanic showed me two heating elements used in a Piper pitot
>>tube, one was stamped 70 watts the other 100 watts. Using the chart in Vans
>>wiring kit this would be close to a 13 amps load which seems high to me.
>>
>>To confuse matters I looked at the electrical load analysys for a Piper
>>Seminole this afternoon and they showed 5.5 amps for the pitot, however I
>>forgot to check if this was a 28 volt system.
>>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>>6A - Wings.
>>
>
>George,
>
>The figures are about right (12 Amps or so) which implies that the Seminole
>was indeed a 28 volt system. My blade type heater draws this much in test.
>
>Leo Davies
>
>
>
>
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
<3645F674.1422342B(at)traveller.com>
>
>I acquired the AeroElectric Connection book before starting my electric
>system, and while a good book, I would not buy this book again($35!) To
>me, it was too deep into 'analyzing' the inner workings of the various
>components of the electric system, and not enough about just installing
>it in layman terms.
Sorry you were disappointed with your purchase. Are you
aware of the 'Connection's Warranty policy? Any product
from us that is not up to your expectations for perceived
value may be returned for a full refund.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wiring diagram |
>
>Rick,
>
>If you have not checked out "The AeroElectric Connection", please do.
>You will find not only wiring diagrams, but answers to nearly any
>question you may have concerning the electrical system on your RV.
>
>You may get more info and a review of "The AeroElectric Connection"
>here:
>
>http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/AeroElectric.html
>
>Good luck with your project,
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>
>
Thank you Sam. RV-listers can also download Appendix
Z from the AeroElectric Connection from our website.
Look at the errata and updates page. Appendix Z has
the wiring diagrams from the book.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave & Melissa Hamilton <hamlton(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTCOAT home powdercoating kit |
>I saw a home powdercoating kit on the tube over the weekend (Hot Rod
>Magazine Sunday on TNN) and tracked it down
Not a good deal IMHO. The instructions say you need an oven to cure the
paint but not to use one that will also be used for food! What are you
planning to do? Install a BIG (very big to do canopy frame) oven in the
hanger for powder coating? You can do all steel in an RV kit for about
$300 at any coating business.
Ask the pros about ceramic coatings for hi temp applications, looks like
chrome with out causing brittle problems. Great for exhausts, no temp
discoloration.
Dave Hamilton
RV-8 (80001)
Finally starting fuselage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | electronic compass |
All this talk about compasses lately got me interested in electronic
compasses again. Finding nothing in the archives, I searched the Net and
found a very interesting company called Precision Navigation
(www.precisionnav.com). They claim to have new, patented compass
technology - it's not a flux gate.
It seems to me that even a simple electronic compass would be better than a
whiskey compass because it at least doesn't have the mechanical/inertial
problems that something with moving parts has. A digital display is nice
too.
Precision Nav has a $50 module that looks about right. It has 2 deg.
accuracy, can compensate for local mag. fields and consumes only 6ma. (A
$100 version is more tolerant of being tilted.) It's tiny - about 1.5"
square and outputs BCD over a serial line. Should be easy to hook up to an
LCD display (I'm checking those details out now). I figure you could put
it in the tip of the VS under the fiberglass fairing and run leads to the
LCD on the panel. The parts would probably cost less than $100. If it
checks out upon closer inspection, I think I'll buy one and plus
appropriate LCD and try to tinker something together.
Have a look at it: I'd appreciate the opinions of some of you
electro-cyber-digit-heads out there.
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
I did the bevel of the main skins at the main spar, i.a.w. the plans, but
did not cut away the skin at the trailing edge. Although I did not see any
reference to this cut, which I guess would be a right angle notch, it would
give the flap brace a continuous single layer of skin to attach to, as
opposed to that two layer section at the overlap. On the top skins, it
would have a neater appearance, I guess.
Is this in the plans ? I did not see it. Any comments on this would be
appreciated.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 5:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Main Wing Skins - overlap
>
>On my RV-6A I cut away the 1 and inch overlap completely from the trailing
>edge of the skin to the trailing edge of the rear spar flange. At the
>overlap on the main spar, I beveled the top of both the underlying skin and
>the top skin.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>Puzzling out the cabin frame
>
>
> A quick question regarding the skin overlap area. .........
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check the Archives First! |
Hi Matt,
When I want to use the archives, I bring up any old in-mail post from the
list and
scroll down to your footer where you give the Matronics web link. I then go
through all the meandering motions to get to the archives. Now if you
included the archive link in your footer, most of us (who don't know how to
create an address book on our computers) will be able to get to the
archives much easier. And some of us will use the archives much more often.
Anyone who uses your new archive system will fall in love with it at first
glance. Can you change your footer to something like this:
-
| Visit the RV- Archives at
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
To [un]subscribe
Thanks for the list.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | CherryMax Question |
It looks like I'm going to have to use CherryMax rivets to complete my ground
adjustable rudder pedal installation on my quickbuild 8. While drilling out some
rivets that need to be replaced with blind rivets, I oversized a hole. When I called
AC Spruce, they told me they carry oversized CherryMax rivets, but claimed that
they
are 1/16" oversized. I just can't believe this is correct, but I called back and
talked to 3 different operators, and they all said the same thing, with the third
one getting mad at me! I think it's gotta be 16/1000th, but they say it's not so.
The catalog simply lists them as 1/8", and says nothing about being oversized.
The
rivet number is: CR3242 4-4. This would be a 100deg flush head, but what is the
true
diameter?
Thanks in advance
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
<< I talked to a
man at Merced one year that said someone did a split-s from cruise
in his RV-4 and they figured that it was doing at least 300 mph on
recovery. And they had to rebuild the elevators. >>
Hmmmmmm....I'm having a little problem with the direction of this thread: I
was taught that one can use "G" to control airspeed. In other words, if you
keep the ship "loaded", it will not accelerate to the speeds mentioned, even
during a split-s from cruise. I will comment that it works, too. For a test,
loop your ship from cruise while holding 3G for the entire loop. Your exit
speed should be near 110 MPH. Forget the exit altitude- this is an airspeed
control exercise. I'd say the PIC in the 300MPH RV-4 acted out of ignorance,
and held a light "G" on his ship during the maneuver mentioned. Mr. Gummo- Can
you comment?
As for 300MPH, many of the Rockets normally operate at this speed in a
descent, with no damage. At least, all are flutter tested to this speed (1.1 x
VNE), as 275 is the listed VNE. Your mileage may vary...
BTW- does Canada require 1.2 x VNE?
Check six!
Mark
HR2 301 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
I'm not familiar with 144 Mhz and licensed XYL. What is it? What
does it do?
Larry
RV-8 emp.
http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
>
> > If you want to notify your wife of your impending arrival, get a
low-cost
> > scanner from someplace like Radio Shack and let her monitor your
progress
> > that way.
> >
> > I used to commute every day and had all the enroute ATC frequencies
> > programmed into the scanner. My wife and kids could hear me
coming from up
> > to 30 minutes away. It meant that the hangar was open when I
landed
>
> Brian, didn't it also mean the fam had to listen to chatter on those
freq's
> for hours on end awaiting Dad's arrival over the radio horizon? My
wife would
> never go for that (hence 144 Mhz capability built into my panel -
but not
> everyone has a licensed XYL...) My question: Is there an aviation
frequency
> available for (legal) use by a ground station other than an FBO or
other
> airport facility (such as the pilot's home) for ground-to-air
communication?
>
> -Bill B
>
>
>
>
>
==
Larry Bowen
larry(at)bowen.com
http://larry.bowen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
Even the $100 unit can only be tilted 15 degrees. What hapens when you are in
steeper bank (e.g. 45 degrees or more)?
Finn
tom sargent wrote:
It seems to me that even a simple electronic compass would be better than a
> whiskey compass because it at least doesn't have the mechanical/inertial
> problems that something with moving parts has. A digital display is nice
> too.
>
> Precision Nav has a $50 module that looks about right. It has 2 deg.
> accuracy, can compensate for local mag. fields and consumes only 6ma. (A
> $100 version is more tolerant of being tilted.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: looking for a carb |
builders,
If any one out there has fuel injected a new 0-360 and has a carb left
over I'm looking for one. Please call 817-439-3280 or write. Thanks....George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CherryMax Question |
Believe a #27 drill is used
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Main Wing Skins - overlap |
Hi Mark,
The directive to cut away the double thickness of skins is in the manual for
the RV-6A. I don't know about the RV-4, but I would expect that it would be
the same. It think the reason is to make sure that there is only one
thickness of wing skin touching the flap at you raise and lower it. I think
that the worst that would happen if you left a double thickness of skin is
that there would be a bump or a gap in where the top skin touches the flap
and the flap might be scratched by the that area.
Steve Soule
From: Mark McGee [mailto:riveter(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 4:59 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Main Wing Skins - overlap
I did the bevel of the main skins at the main spar, i.a.w.
the plans, but
did not cut away the skin at the trailing edge. Although I
did not see any
reference to this cut, which I guess would be a right angle
notch, it would
give the flap brace a continuous single layer of skin to
attach to, as
opposed to that two layer section at the overlap. On the
top skins, it
would have a neater appearance, I guess.
Is this in the plans ? I did not see it. Any comments on
this would be
appreciated.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 5:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Main Wing Skins - overlap
>
>On my RV-6A I cut away the 1 and inch overlap completely
from the trailing
>edge of the skin to the trailing edge of the rear spar
flange. At the
>overlap on the main spar, I beveled the top of both the
underlying skin and
>the top skin.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>Puzzling out the cabin frame
>
>
> A quick question regarding the skin overlap area.
.........
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
Tom,
My only objection to an electronic compass would be the lack of a backup.
With a magnetic compass, even if everything else in the cockpit goes Tango
Uniform you can still navigate. You might check out the vertical card
compasses: Hamilton and Precision Aeromotive. I installed a PAI vertical
card compass in my father's 172. There is no overshoot of indicated heading
when rolling out of a turn, and no bouncing around in turbulence. I was
able to swing it in flight to a maximum error of 2 degrees. Most cardinal
headings were bang on. I was never able to achieve this accuracy in T-37
compass swings with the old-style whiskey compass.
I went right out a bought the PAI compass for my RV-4.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 laying up fiberglass plenum for oil cooler
>
>All this talk about compasses lately got me interested in electronic
>compasses again.
>
>It seems to me that even a simple electronic compass would be better than a
>whiskey compass because it at least doesn't have the mechanical/inertial
>problems that something with moving parts has. A digital display is nice
>too.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
>I did the bevel of the main skins at the main spar, i.a.w. the plans, but
>did not cut away the skin at the trailing edge. Although I did not see any
>reference to this cut, which I guess would be a right angle notch, ...
>
>Is this in the plans ?
When I was at this point about four years ago, there was a small sketch
illustration in the manual showing this cut out, believe it was at the end
of the wing section, very easy to miss. Hopefully this has been
incorporated into the drawings by now.
Dave Hudgins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
On Tue, 10 Nov 1998, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> I'm not familiar with 144 Mhz and licensed XYL. What is it? What
> does it do?
Sorry, amateur radio geek speak (ARGS). 144 Mhz is the 2 meter amateur
radio band. XYL stands for "ex young lady" or a married woman in ARGS.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>
>Hmmmmmm....I'm having a little problem with the direction of this thread: I
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>HR2 301 hrs
>
Mark,
I share your concerns about this thread, My concern is the questions being
asked seem to seek aerobatic instruction via email. You DO NOT get
aerobatic instruction on the Internet.
I will tell you this, The Spit-S can be a very dangerous maneuver. You wont
see them in many aishow routines. The reason is it is completed lower than
it starts. If you want to do aerobatics, get instruction.
Mark is correct speed can be controlled by G's. The wings can be removed in
the same manner.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I'm not familiar with 144 Mhz and licensed XYL. What is it? What
>does it do?
>
>Larry
>RV-8 emp.
>http://larry.bowen.com
>
144 Mhz is an amateur radio frequency. XYL is a wife (amateur radio
jargon-ex young lady).
Although perhaps not strictly legal I don't think anyone would have any
problem with someone making a call in the blind on the little used air to
air 122.75 or glider/instructional frequencies 123.3 and 123.5.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
On Tue, 10 Nov 1998 Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << I talked to a
> man at Merced one year that said someone did a split-s from cruise
> in his RV-4 and they figured that it was doing at least 300 mph on
> recovery. And they had to rebuild the elevators. >>
>
> Hmmmmmm....I'm having a little problem with the direction of this thread: I
> was taught that one can use "G" to control airspeed. In other words, if you
> keep the ship "loaded", it will not accelerate to the speeds mentioned, even
> during a split-s from cruise.
Yes, pulling more G will bleed off energy more quickly. But with the nose
pointed straight down, you are converting potential energy into kinetic
pretty quickly. If you get into a situation where you are accelerating
too rapidly and you think you are going to go blasting through Vne,
rolling the wings level, reducing power, and pulling max-G, 6G for most of
us, is the right thing to do. At this point you are performing an
emergency manuver to reduce the chance of damage to your aircraft. It is
nice to know that our aircraft are a lot stronger than they at first
appear.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
On Tue, 10 Nov 1998, Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> Even the $100 unit can only be tilted 15 degrees. What hapens when you are in
> steeper bank (e.g. 45 degrees or more)?
A standard compass is not accurate in accelerated flight either so it is
no worse than what you already have.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am very interested in this electronic compass idea. Most of us are
using GPS and hardly even look at the compass anymore, so an electronic
unit would be the backup for the GPS. Since most GPS are battery backup
or battery powered, you would have redundancy there(as a compass), if the
electric system failed. What I want to do is find some small, thin unit
that I can mount up on the glareshield that I could simply flip up when
I needed it. It would not block my visibility out the front windshield
like most glareshield mounted units. Obviously, it would be nice to have
a unit that would read accurately in turns, but if there is no such thing
in an electronic inexpensive unit, getting readings during level flight
would suffice, since it is only a backup. Has anybody had success using
anything like this? Will the FAA accept this type of compass?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Notifying family on the ground |
This is Amateur radio speak.
144MHz is the 2m Amateur (Ham) radio band
XYL is former (X) young lady.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Notifying family on the ground
Date: 10-11-98 05:29
I'm not familiar with 144 Mhz and licensed XYL. What is it? What
does it do?
Larry
RV-8 emp.
http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
>
> > If you want to notify your wife of your impending arrival, get a
low-cost
> > scanner from someplace like Radio Shack and let her monitor your
progress
> > that way.
> >
> > I used to commute every day and had all the enroute ATC frequencies
> > programmed into the scanner. My wife and kids could hear me
coming from up
> > to 30 minutes away. It meant that the hangar was open when I
landed
>
> Brian, didn't it also mean the fam had to listen to chatter on those
freq's
> for hours on end awaiting Dad's arrival over the radio horizon? My
wife would
> never go for that (hence 144 Mhz capability built into my panel -
but not
> everyone has a licensed XYL...) My question: Is there an aviation
frequency
> available for (legal) use by a ground station other than an FBO or
other
> airport facility (such as the pilot's home) for ground-to-air
communication?
>
> -Bill B
>
>
>
>
>
==
Larry Bowen
larry(at)bowen.com
http://larry.bowen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
>
>
>> I used to commute every day and had all the enroute ATC frequencies
>> programmed into the scanner. My wife and kids could hear me coming
from up
>> to 30 minutes away. It meant that the hangar was open when I landed
>
>Brian, didn't it also mean the fam had to listen to chatter on those freq's
>for hours on end awaiting Dad's arrival over the radio horizon? My wife
would
>never go for that (hence 144 Mhz capability built into my panel - but not
>everyone has a licensed XYL...)
I couldn't talk her into getting her license. OTOH, I would call when I
left the office for the airport so she wouldn't have to listen for too
long. Since she was a student pilot and then a new private pilot, she
didn't mind too much.
>My question: Is there an aviation frequency
>available for (legal) use by a ground station other than an FBO or other
>airport facility (such as the pilot's home) for ground-to-air
communication?
If you get a licensed ground station I belive you can use multicomm (122.9
if I recall properly). I know people who just "fake it" and use a
different aircraft's call sign but I wouldn't advocate it. There is also
the air-to-air frequency of 122.75.
I understand that the FCC is starting to crack down on people using
aviation freqencies for other than their specified purpose, the most common
infraction being using other than 122.75 for air-to-air comm (I think there
is one other freq but I don't remember what it is).
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
Some time ago one of our listers ( don't remember his name) posted his
success using a GPS antenna made by Lowe Electronics in England. I have
since recieved mine, and am very pleased with it. Very tiny and thin,
very well made, and gives me much quicker lock-on and more satellite
acquisition than the factory supplied antenna on my Garmin GPS III, all
for $65 including air mail delivery! I could not find anything that
came close to this in price. It is available with different connectors
to fit different GPS brands. Go to the web site and check it out.
lowe.co.uk
e-mail, info(at)lowe.co.uk
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | electronic compass |
Tom,
I looked to me that these compasses ran off their own dedicated
battery..... Isn't that redundant?
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Tom Craig-Stearman [SMTP:tcraigst(at)ionet.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 9:36 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: electronic compass
>
>
> Tom,
> My only objection to an electronic compass would be the lack of a backup.
> With a magnetic compass, even if everything else in the cockpit goes Tango
> Uniform you can still navigate. You might check out the vertical card
> compasses: Hamilton and Precision Aeromotive. I installed a PAI vertical
> card compass in my father's 172. There is no overshoot of indicated
> heading
> when rolling out of a turn, and no bouncing around in turbulence. I was
> able to swing it in flight to a maximum error of 2 degrees. Most cardinal
> headings were bang on. I was never able to achieve this accuracy in T-37
> compass swings with the old-style whiskey compass.
>
> I went right out a bought the PAI compass for my RV-4.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Craig-Stearman
> tcraigst(at)ionet.net
> RV-4 laying up fiberglass plenum for oil cooler
>
>
> >
> >All this talk about compasses lately got me interested in electronic
> >compasses again.
> >
> >It seems to me that even a simple electronic compass would be better than
> a
> >whiskey compass because it at least doesn't have the mechanical/inertial
> >problems that something with moving parts has. A digital display is nice
> >too.
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cell-phone Illegal? |
But when you are on the ground, cell phones are legal../.
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
>
>"Bryan A. Gembusia" wrote:
>>
>>
>> It is ok to use a Cell in an emergency. I had a good freind do it to
>> contact the tower in a Comm out emergency. No fine, no harm, no foul.
>>
>> Bryan A. Gembusia
>>
>This reminds me of a case we had here in the Pacific Northwest this
>past year. A man and his wife and baby went down in a Cessna in bad
>weather and a snow storm coming in, the pilot sadly did not make it
>but his wife was able to call out on their cell phone while hanging
>upside down in the airplane and unable to reach the baby in the back
>seat. Search and rescue say they probably would not have made it in
>time to save them if it had not been for the cell phone. I usually
>have my cell phone with me in the airplane just in case.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Im not sure if this is relevant to the compass discussion, but when I was
down at the AOPA convention in Palms Springs, I saw what seemed to be a
very good compass for both glareshield and panel mount. Something about a
different fluid inside for dampening.
It is the Navigator and Pegasus by SIRS Navigation out of England.
Web site is sirs.co.uk
Sells for $169 -$189 and they have the RV mounting parephenalia for about $15
Dan
Dan Wiesel
Interlink Recruiting
408-551-6554
dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | II Morrow Loran Datacards |
Does anyone know if the GPS cards work with the Lorans? A friend has a II
Morrow Loran and says the newest datacard he could find was a 93 version
from Eastern Avionics.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
Ever try to read a compass while turning the plane, even a little bit?
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> Even the $100 unit can only be tilted 15 degrees. What hapens when you are in
> steeper bank (e.g. 45 degrees or more)?
>
> Finn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>
>Mark is correct speed can be controlled by G's. The wings can be removed in
>the same manner.
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
Doug,
I hope the readers realize that your comment above was meant to marginalize
Mark's comment about "G's" controlling speed. Mark's comment about using a
loop to demonstrate how G's control (read reduce) speed works only if you
enter the loop upright at cruise speed and pull up. If you are cruising at,
say, 140 kts, and without first slowing down, roll inverted and pull back
to split-S you will probably no longer be an active member of the RV-list.
The G's needed to keep the speed below VNE must be enormous. And if you
don't pull the G's the speed buildup will be enormous.
With all of this said, I am wondering if 70 kts. is too slow to start the
roll to inverted in a reverse Cuban-8 maneuver. It sounds like a good speed
for a roll from straight and level to start the split-S, but I don't know
if I want to be on a 45 degree up line at 70 kts. prior to the roll. I am
just learning to fly my -4 and I am looking for advice to supplement my
limited aerobatic training in a Cessna and Pitts.
Finally, I hope everyone really listens to Doug's advice. He knows his
stuff and when he says "don't use the Internet for aerobatic instruction",
he's serious.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass location |
Larry,
This web site doesn't work for me.
From: Larry McKee <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass location
>try www.sierra.net/skyranch/degauss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | CherryMax Question |
>The catalog simply lists them as 1/8", and says nothing about being
>oversized. The rivet number is: CR3242 4-4. This would be a 100deg flush
head, but what is the true diameter?
>Thanks in advance
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Moe:
My 'old' Aviall book shows 4-4 to be .140 +.003,-.001 on Page 63.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://tabshred.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Leg Labeling |
>In any case, how do I distinguish the #!!%&!! right and left legs?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
My ( 6A) legs were not stamped, but I did keep the tags in the axles for
the paint shop. I think the .062 toe in requirement will make them idot
proof. Try clamping everthing down & check the toe in. Looks like the
legs are sweeping out at 45 deg & back at 20 degs. After I get my sat on
circles cut in the F672 skin, I think I will try it.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>I share your concerns about this thread, My concern is the questions being
>asked seem to seek aerobatic instruction via email. You DO NOT get
>aerobatic instruction on the Internet.
Ahh, we have been here before. I view it as hanger flying where open
questions and discussions are allowed and/or encouraged. Here is a
corollary: there are non-IFR pilots on the list therefore we should not
talk about IFR operation, gyros, navigation systems, etc., becuase it might
be construed as IFR instruction via email and it might encourage a
non-IFR-certified pilot to go out and practice IFR without the appropriate
training or ratings. Please explain to me the difference between the two.
I would hope that people who perform aerobatics in RVs and have the
training/experience would be able to freely discuss the topic (after all it
*IS* about flying an RV-x) and even answer questions from the non-aerobatic
pilots out there. In the final analysis, it is up to each individual pilot
to make his/her own *GOOD*, *SAFE* decisions about flying his/her own
aircraft. It is not yours or my position to presume to censor the
discussion because it might not be appropriate for some particular pilot on
the list.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
| Subject: | Sam James wheelpants |
Listers,
Has anyone had any experience with Sam James' wheelpants? I spoke with him
yesterday and he said that you will see a 5 mph increase over stock. Has
anyone experienced that large of a gain in speed?
Thanks
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hyde" <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
I have one of the Precision Navigation $50 compass modules, which is
sitting at the moment in a box along with the other parts of my electronic
altimeter/airspeed indicator/VSI. When I have time, I will connect it up
and play with it, but at the moment I am tied up with other business (laid
off, looking for new job, etc.).
RS232 serial port and go, it's a version of a 3-wire bus interface that's
widely used in embedded systems.
Since it has 2 sensors at right angles, it effectively simulates a whiskey
compass, with all its good and bad features. Most of the bad ones are due
to the fact that the earth's magnetic field is not parallel to the surface,
but it has "dip".
Imagine a magic arrow suspended in the cabin pointing north, a compass card
lying on the floor of your plane, and a bright light overhead (inside the
plane). If the arrow is parallel to the ground, then when your plane
tilts, the shadow of the arrow on the compass card still points north. But
if the arrow points up or down, then when you bank your plane to turn, the
shadow of the arrow wanders around in all those strange ways you were
supposed to learn in ground school.
> From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: electronic compass
> Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:35 AM
>
>
> All this talk about compasses lately got me interested in electronic
> compasses again. Finding nothing in the archives, I searched the Net and
> found a very interesting company called Precision Navigation
> (www.precisionnav.com). They claim to have new, patented compass
> technology - it's not a flux gate.
>
> It seems to me that even a simple electronic compass would be better than
a
> whiskey compass because it at least doesn't have the mechanical/inertial
> problems that something with moving parts has. A digital display is nice
> too.
>
> Precision Nav has a $50 module that looks about right. It has 2 deg.
> accuracy, can compensate for local mag. fields and consumes only 6ma. (A
> $100 version is more tolerant of being tilted.) It's tiny - about 1.5"
> square and outputs BCD over a serial line. Should be easy to hook up to
an
> LCD display (I'm checking those details out now). I figure you could put
> it in the tip of the VS under the fiberglass fairing and run leads to the
> LCD on the panel. The parts would probably cost less than $100. If it
> checks out upon closer inspection, I think I'll buy one and plus
> appropriate LCD and try to tinker something together.
>
> Have a look at it: I'd appreciate the opinions of some of you
> electro-cyber-digit-heads out there.
>
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>With all of this said, I am wondering if 70 kts. is too slow to start the
>roll to inverted in a reverse Cuban-8 maneuver. It sounds like a good speed
>for a roll from straight and level to start the split-S, but I don't know
>if I want to be on a 45 degree up line at 70 kts. prior to the roll.
Airplanes will fly just fine at IAS below published stall speed just as
airplanes will stall at speeds greatly exceeding published stall speed. It
simply depends on AOA and how hard you are pulling at the moment. If AOA
is below critical, regardless of speed and attitude, the aircraft will not
stall.
Having performed the "reverse cuban" manuver, I can attest that it works.
Granted IAS is below the bottom of the white arc but I am only slightly
positive G (about 1/4 to 1/2 G) as I go over the top and start down the
back side. As the nose of the aircraft falls through the horizon speed
begins to build up again and you start pulling harder. Next time I do the
"reverse cuban" I will look at my G-meter to see what I am pulling at
different positions in the manuver. I know that I pull a minumum of close
to 0 G going over the top and a maximum of about 3.5G near the bottom of
the pull-out.
>Finally, I hope everyone really listens to Doug's advice. He knows his
>stuff and when he says "don't use the Internet for aerobatic instruction",
>he's serious.
I am sure that he is. And I am serious that answering your question, even
tho' someone might construe it as "instructing via internet," is a
perfectly valid use of this medium. I have done it and you, a pilot who
flys aerobatics, have asked a legitimate question. Seems a legitimate use
of this medium to me.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Listers,
this may be relevant to the fluid in whiskey type compasses. I had an
old friend whom still fly's his Taylorcraft with a compass filled with
CLEAR Johnson's Baby Oil. Dampens out the oscillations very nicely....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Dan Wiesel [SMTP:dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Compass
>
>
>
> Im not sure if this is relevant to the compass discussion, but when I
> was
> down at the AOPA convention in Palms Springs, I saw what seemed to be
> a
> very good compass for both glareshield and panel mount. Something
> about a
> different fluid inside for dampening.
>
> It is the Navigator and Pegasus by SIRS Navigation out of England.
>
> Web site is sirs.co.uk
>
> Sells for $169 -$189 and they have the RV mounting parephenalia for
> about $15
> Dan
>
> Dan Wiesel
> Interlink Recruiting
> 408-551-6554
> dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic compass |
Yeah, that would provide redundancy. I am not familiar with these
compasses. However, a compass that requires no power whatever seems to me
more failsafe even than one with its own battery.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
>
> I looked to me that these compasses ran off their own dedicated
>battery..... Isn't that redundant?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Skins - overlap |
>The directive to cut away the double thickness of skins is in the manual
for
>the RV-6A. I don't know about the RV-4, but I would expect that it would
be
>the same. It think the reason is to make sure that there is only one
>thickness of wing skin touching the flap at you raise and lower it. I
think
>that the worst that would happen if you left a double thickness of skin is
>that there would be a bump or a gap in where the top skin touches the flap
>and the flap might be scratched by the that area.
Stephen,
Yup, true statement. Ask me how I know :^( The RV-4 plans and manual
don't directly address this. There is only a small sketch that I did not
notice until after I riveted the top wing skins. Rats. I guess I will just
apply teflon tape under the skin edge to prevent scratches. I was planning
to do that anyway.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST looks like it's ready to fly, so why do I still have so much work
to do?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Sam James wheelpants are all they say . Ive run them on my RV-4 BOUNTY HUNTER
an can say 5 mph may be alittle
low.
Regards
Tom
Whelan
RV-8
TIO540SIAD LYC
wfact01(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Compass mounting bracket |
I plan to use the PAI vertical card compass mounted to the SS rollbar brace (slider).
Anyone know what mounting bracket to order with it?
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Compared to what? The old single piece pants, the latest pressure recovery
pants, or someone elses aftermarket pants? How bout cost compared to the
latest pressure recovery pants? Hows the finish quality (how much work to
prep for paint)? Who else sells pants (check six Mark, you have an
alternative dont you)?
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse (ordering finish kit soon so I gotta know!)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>Sam James wheelpants are all they say . Ive run them on my RV-4 BOUNTY HUNTER
>an can say 5 mph may be alittle
>low.
Regards
Tom
>Whelan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DENNIS HART <dennishart(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CherryMax Question |
<3038271C.B490DE48(at)mail.coos.or.us>
moe-
You are correct.the oversize c-max is .143 min to .146 max hole size. the
standard is .129 min-.132 max It is .014 oversize or approx 1/64th. A #27
will do it. I have a c-max hole size limit chart but I can not get scanner
to work to sent it to ya off-list. Hope it helps
den
emp 1/2 way 6A
>rivet number is: CR3242 4-4. This would be a 100deg flush head, but what
is the true
>diameter?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://tabshred.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
> I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
> what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
> together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
> $770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
> said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
> (cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $35.00.
I am interested but would like to know if any listers have the LRI
installed in their RVs and their experience with the instrument. How
difficult is the installation in a completed RV-6A? Also, on the web
page it was mentioned that the LRI may be mounted on the glare shield
but the size of the instrument is not stated. The navy angle-of-attach
instrument is very small and is located on the glare shield. Please
respond directly or on the list.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT |
I installed the LRI on the glare shield of my completed RV-6A. The
instrument housing is "about" three inches in diameter and cylindrical. The
rear is cut or sliced so as to mate the slope of a canopy, however the
slope was insufficient for the RV-6A tip-up canopy, because I wanted to
have the face flush with the padded aft edge of the glare shield or that
part that "covers" the space between the sub-panel and the instrument
panel. The case of the instrument must be 3/16-inches thick, and aluminum.
It is long enough that I could easily cut off more of the aft end to get
the fit I wanted. The probe can be mounted in the aileron inspection panel
(recommended plate thickness of .050 to replace the original inspection
plate. I ran the two supplied plastic air lines from the probe up the left
wing through the wire conduit and then up the left fuselage side wall to
the instrument. Installation is quite straightforward. Everything needed is
supplied.
Flying: I have made five flights with the instrument so far. I adjusted the
probe angle once, and think I got lucky and "hit it on the nose." The
indicator needle just touches the red zone when the nose dips in a stall.
The needle just comes out of the red and I can feel the plane is ready to
fly on take off, and that is confirmed by the ASI. Repeatability is rock
solid. Turns, weight, speed, etc, do not affect the reading. I really think
this is a great gizzmo...again...I do not have any interest in the
company...I just think this is almost as good as sliced bread!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
<< Who else sells pants (check six Mark, you have an
alternative dont you)? >>
Sure do- a clone of what is (was) used on Pushy Galore. Very high quality, but
not so cheap- $325/set or so. Email off-list for more info...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Mike SUN-100 RACE 228.7 Stock 0-360 every thing helps TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
>
>I mentioned this to a fellow named Fred Stucklen, who was presenting a talk
>
I didn't see anyone else respond so I will. I want to thank Fred on behalf
of all RV'ers out there for his hospitality and assistance to
Nick. Fred is a frequent contributor on the list and sounds like a
pretty special guy too. All part of why I'm proud to be a part
of this group.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 - Final details before paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
Well, after placing a deposit for a wood prop for my 160 HP RV6
naturally I meet someone who advised me of my grave mistake. Must slow
down in rain, constant retightening of prop bolts, inferior performance
due to thicker cross section.
The wood prop (aymar_demuth) with extension, crush plate and prop bolts
cost $1950 Canadian
The Sensenich prop with all accessories inc new spinner fornt plate cost
$2820 Canadian
Now, Aymar-Demuth tell me their prop has a metal leading edge and is not
effected by heavy rain plus performance is equal to metal prop also not
limited to 2600rpm.
Sensenich told us the 2600 rpm limit is actually 2700 but due to
inaccurate RPM indicators the played it safe and limited it to 2600.
Are their performance and durablity advantages to the metal prop and is
it worth the $870 Canadian difference.
Looking foreward to reading real life experiences
Regards Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 1:39 AM
>Subject: RV-List: split-S from cruise ...
>
>
>>
>>... is a no-no with our aircraft. But if you want a manuver that does the
>>same thing, try this:
>>
>>1. pull the nose up 45 degrees and let the speed bleed off to about 70
>>kts;
>>2. roll inverted;
>>3. pull through back to level.
>>
>>You end up going back the way you came and at about the same altitude
>>where you entered the manuver.
>>
>>The guy who taught me this manuver, J.C. Brandt, called it a "reverse
>>cuban" as it is the reverse of half a cuban eight. It so tickled my fancy
>>I thought I would share it with you.
>>
>>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
>>(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
>>(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
For a vertical course reversal from cruise speed, why not turn the other way
and perform an Immelmann turn.
(First have of loop with half roll to level at the top) With this manuver
more speed is fine since it will only decrease during the manuver, energy is
converted to altitude and G's are easily maintained within safe limits.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Hi Tom,
Nothing negative intended. But when I see someone post "I gained 5mph by
changing xxx" I think its fair to ask what it was changed from. I had the
same discussion about a year ago with Dan Potter about his wing tips. Im
preparing to order my finish kit in the next month or so and Im trying to
decide what to get. So let me ask this another way. If you were in my
position would you buy Vans pressure recovery pants, Sam James pants, Mark
Fredericks "pushy pants", or??? Can you (or anyone else) compare these
various pants performance, price, and fit and finish? Feel free to respond
off list if you are worried about hurting anyone's feelings.
>
>Mike SUN-100 RACE 228.7 Stock 0-360 every thing helps TOM
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Cell-phone Illegal? |
A few months ago I was flying my Jodel D11 into an airport with a tower.
About 5k from the airport I had a total electrical failure - all I did was
look up the towers telephone number in an old ERS (En-Route Supplement - not
issued any more) and I called the tower on my cell phone. I got the rest of
my clearances via phone :-)
I think the controller was a bit stunned but as it was a quite time he had
no problems with it.
Back to working on the RV4.
Cheers
John Morrissey
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cell-phone Illegal?
> It is possible to detect that the phone is being used from a plane because
> several (many) cell towers will hear the signal equally well and the
voting
> process chews up a LOT of the network trying to figure out to which cell
> site you should be talking. The fine can be substantial.
Sort of makes you want to take a phone to the nearest tall building or
mountaintop and tie up a few cells just to show them, doesn't it.
I agree with Cecil Hatfield; one day soon these terrestrial cell towers will
sit as useless as Loran A stations and VOR's, while we chat away on
satellite
networks that care not how high or fast we travel. Meanwhile, I cannot
shake
the feeling that my terrestrial network carrier is discriminating against
pilots. I'll believe otherwise when they make boaters turn their phones
off.
<>
Installed? Who's going to install one of these in an RV? I'll just carry
mine
in my pocket. ;-)
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid for sale. |
How good a friend is he?;) I also have been quoted $1300 for a new one
recently at the Great Southwest Fly-in.
>The last I knew, they were going for $1300 new
>
>>
>>
>> A friend has a Navaid wing lever installed in his flying -6 and wants
>> to sell it. He will be installing a 2 axis AP. He said he would sell
>> it to me for $1,400. Is this too much? I do not have AP and would
>> prefer a 2 axis unit but do not want to spend the $.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Angus Gordon <agordon(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
Mark Wrote
>Hmmmmmm....I'm having a little problem with the direction of this thread: I
>was taught that one can use "G" to control airspeed. In other words...
Hello - I'm new to the list here, and haven't yet flown an RV (though I'm
looking forward to it!), but I do have lot's of aerobatic instructing
experience. Mark's comment about controlling speed with G is right on the
money. The best way to control speed is to pull hard , within the
limitations of the aircraft. For example, in a Decathlon ( certified to 6+
G's) I can roll inverted at cruise speed, and leaving the power at 75% pull
through to upright with a gain of 10-15mph by using 5 to 5.5 G's.
Many instructors do a disservice by the repeated phrase " ease out of the
dive". Recovery from an inadvertant nose low attitude is a trade-off
between load factor and airspeed buildup. As I stated above - to gain
minimum speed - pull maximum G. * Within Limits*
Needless to say anyone messing around with this in an aircraft as slick as
the RV should definitely seek out some competent dual instruction.
Angus
===============================================================
Angus Gordon
Delta, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
<01be0cbc$147eecc0$71a76cc7@doug>
Brian, you said as a reply to my emphasizing Doug's warning about learning
aerobatics on the Internet:
>I am sure that he is. And I am serious that answering your question, even
>tho' someone might construe it as "instructing via internet," is a
>perfectly valid use of this medium. I have done it and you, a pilot who
>flys aerobatics, have asked a legitimate question. Seems a legitimate use
>of this medium to me.
I don't think Doug's expression of warning was a shot at your post about
split-S'ing. We are all interested in discussing flying techniques (to
include aerobatics) on the Internet. It is, in fact, a very legitimate
subject. But its relatively safe for me to try out some newly read
technique in landing or take-off. It's not so safe for me to try out new
maneuvers or techniques in aerobatics. I think that Doug was just
reinforcing that point.
P.S. Please keep up your valuable posts.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel return line |
RV List
I have just completed my -8 tanks in prep of sealing them. In a discussion
today someone mentioned a fuel return line. I had completly forgotten
about putting one in as it is never mentioned in the plans. Even Tony B.'s
book does not discuss its use. Since I plan on using an IO-360 or O-360
with aftermarket injection, I think this would be a desirable feature.
Any reason I wouldn't want to put in a return line?
If I simply put a niple into the high point of the inboard rib of one of
the tanks will this suffice if the tank is full and therefore above the
level of the return? Another option would be to run a line next to the
vent line inside the tank to get to the high point. One friend said he
believes his airflow performance injection simply returns the fuel to a
fuel line above the pump, will this work with the stock IO-360 injection?
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
>I hope the readers realize that your comment above was meant to marginalize
>Mark's comment about "G's" controlling speed.
I did not mean to marginalize Marks comment, only to point out that
controlling airspeed with G's is the other side of a dangerous and double
edged sword.
>With all of this said, I am wondering if 70 kts. is too slow to start the
>roll to inverted in a reverse Cuban-8 maneuver.
This would be "aerobatic instruction via internet." No? I will say that one
of the very few things I dislike about the -4 is the roll rate at low speed
is really slow.
>Finally, I hope everyone really listens to Doug's advice. He knows his
>stuff and when he says "don't use the Internet for aerobatic instruction",
>he's serious.
>
>Louis
Thank you for your kind words Lou, but I don't deserve that much credit. I
am not an aerobatic instructor, test pilot, any smarter, or any better
aviator, than most of the readers on this list. What I am is highly
opinionated, slightly experienced, and willing to hang my "opinions" out in
this venue. No matter how aggressively I promote them, they are still my
opinions and that, alone, does not make them right.
My response to this thread came from a concern about some of the questions
that were being asked. As Brian correctly pointed out in his post this is
list is hanger flying at its best. If I was at the hanger and heard these
same questions, I would have responded with, "Get aerobatic instruction."
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
> The wood prop (aymar_demuth) with extension, crush plate and prop bolts
> cost $1950 Canadian
> The Sensenich prop with all accessories inc new spinner fornt plate cost
> $2820 Canadian
>
> Now, Aymar-Demuth tell me their prop has a metal leading edge and is not
> effected by heavy rain plus performance is equal to metal prop also not
> limited to 2600rpm.
>
> Sensenich told us the 2600 rpm limit is actually 2700 but due to
> inaccurate RPM indicators the played it safe and limited it to 2600.
>
> Are their performance and durablity advantages to the metal prop and is
> it worth the $870 Canadian difference.
>
> Looking foreward to reading real life experiences
>
> Regards Peter
Peter,
You'll have to refinish the wood prop in about 300 hrs. You'll have to re-torque
the prop bolts every once and a while. ( I do mine every oil change, 25 hrs. )
You don't have to worry about prop balance with a wood prop ( at least not
like a metal prop )
The performance can be better with a wood prop ( mine is, that doesn't mean
yours will )
The cost is cheaper, but not if you get a prop that doesn't match your
airplane.
If I get in rain, I reduce my rpm to 2000 ( @ 130 mph ) I haven't seen any
rain damage yet.
Women think wood props look nicer that painted metal props.
These are the reasons I like a wood prop ( along with the fact that my crank
and case wouldn't take a constant speed )
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Mike,
I've only had a chance to compare Vans to Sam James. Have seen more speed
with Sams (4-5mph). As far as looks, I've won Champ. Kit Built at Oshkosh,
Best Metal at Sun-Fun (twice) and Best Low Wing at Sun-Fun. I would venture
to say they look pretty good.
TOM wfact01(at)aol.com RV8 TIO540 lyc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
The demuth prop is an excellent prop!!! So you have to slow down a little
in rain. The performance is terrific. They run smooth and don't require
all that much attention. I retorque mine 4 times a year and never see
much change in torque. You will never get a metal prop to run as smooth.
I have 205hr on mine (in a year) and it will go alot longer before
refinishing.
Of course this depends on operating surfaces ect.
A plus for a wood prop is that if you have a prop strike, the crank will
probably
not be damaged.
I would buy another Demuth prop if I ever need to!!
I have seen some RVs with the new metal prop and was not impressed with
there performance.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
<< If you get a licensed ground station I belive you can use multicomm (122.9
if I recall properly). I know people who just "fake it" and use a
different aircraft's call sign but I wouldn't advocate it. There is also
the air-to-air frequency of 122.75. >>
Oh, you mean like using my aircraft call sign while standing in the hangar
with a hand-held comm to converse with a buddy flying overhead, on 122.75? I
would _never_ do such an unlawful thing ;-) Is there no respect any more
for the Communications Act of 1939, as amended?!
...Good idea. I like the glider freq's, too. Could come in handy.
But not wishing to flaunt the FCC, I might just apply for a license to use
122.9 at home, since I will at least have a federally-recognized private
airstrip on the premises. We'll see...
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
With all the talk lately about G's, and a bit curious myself as far as
safety goes... I was wondering since the RV is limit load 6G, can someone
fly all day, everyday doing 6G manouvers and have no worry? ( I know it
would be tough to to 6Gs all day!).
Also, since the RV-8 acro weight is 1550 (I think - don't have it in front
of me, just from memory), and at 6Gs that is 9300lbs, does that mean at
gross (1800lbs), it is OK to do, say 4Gs, which is 7200lbs?
I know how important it is to not overstress the airframe so was curious.
Thanks,
Joe Drumm
RV-8 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Has anyone had any experience with the Odyssey Battey that Van now lists in
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | headsets & intercom |
Members: Have a friend who could not finish his -4...Has the following for
sale at half price...Soft Comm Headset C-40 $60...Soft Comm Intercom ATC-4
$70.....David Clark Headset H10-20 $137 and Telex PTT Switch PT-300
$20.... Contact:Pete Fink, 17 Clearview Drive, Tinton Falls, NJ,
Brown,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Still wish you were flying? |
From: Genwcmoore(at)aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Still wish you were flying?
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:41:20 EST
This has really been a long weekend for mail, please enjoy
Dad
forged))
SMTPSVC;
From: "Bruce K. Brown" <brownbk(at)email.msn.com>
"Tom Allen" ,
"Terry Phillips" ,
"Steve McNamara" ,
"Smoky Greene" ,
"Scott Brown" , "Rhip Worrell" ,
"Pete Piotrowski" ,
"Natalie Crawford" ,
"Juice Jensen" ,
"John Corder" <73531.2175(at)compuserve.com>,
"John Bode" , "John Brown" ,
"Jim Cassity" , "Jim Brown" ,
"Jim Brickel" ,
"Jay Kelley" ,
"Gene Deatrick" ,
"Gen Ron Fogleman" ,
"Earl Brown" ,
"Dunc Myers" <73522.1334(at)compuserve.com>,
"Dr. Chip Roadman" ,
"Dick Scofield" ,
"Col. Mark Smith" ,
"Col Bob Dorsey" ,
"Bobby and Pat" ,
"Bill Maxson" , "Bill Ginn"
Subject: Still wish you were flying?
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 21:07:08 -0500
Truly superior pilots are those who use their superior judgment to
avoid those situations where they might have to use their superior
skills.
Rule one: No matter what else happens, fly the airplane.
Forget all that stuff about thrust and drag, lift and gravity; an
airplane flies because of money.
It's better to be down here wishing you were up there, than up there
wishing you were down here.
An airplane will probably fly a little bit over gross but it sure won't
fly without fuel.
Believe your instruments.
Think ahead of your airplane.
I'd rather be lucky than good.
The propeller is just a big fan in the front of the plane to keep the
pilot cool. Want proof? Make it stop; then watch the pilot break out
into a sweat.
If you're ever faced with a forced landing at night, turn on the
landing lights to see the landing area. If you don't like what you
see, turn 'em back off.
A check ride ought to be like a skirt, short enough to be interesting
but still be long enough to cover everything.
Speed is life, altitude is life insurance.
No one has ever collided with the sky.
Always remember you fly an airplane with your head, not your hands.
Never let an airplane take you somewhere you brain didn't get to five
minutes earlier.
Don't drop the aircraft in order to fly the microphone.
An airplane flies because of a principle discovered by Bernoulli, not
Marconi.
Cessna pilots are always found in the wreckage with their hand around
the microphone.
If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger, if you pull the
stick back they get smaller.
Hovering is for pilots who love to fly but have no place to go.
The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.
Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man.... Landing is the
first!
Every one already knows the definition of a 'good' landing is one from
which you can walk away. But very few know the definition of a 'great
landing.' It's one after which you can use the airplane another time.
The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival.
IFR: I Follow Roads.
You know you've landed with the wheels up when it takes full power to
taxi.
I had a fighter pilot's breakfast - two aspirin, a cup of coffee and a
puke.
Those who hoot with the owls by night, should not fly with the eagles
by day.
A smooth touchdown in a simulator is as exciting as kissing your
sister.
A helicopter is a collection of rotating parts going round and round
and reciprocating parts going up and down - all of them trying to
become random in motion.
Helicopters can't really fly - they're just so ugly that the earth
immediately repels them.
Young man, was that a landing or were we shot down?
Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make
all of them yourself.
Pilots believe in clean living. They never drink whiskey from a dirty
glass.
Things which do you no good in aviation: Altitude above you. Runway
behind you. Fuel in the truck. A navigator. Half a second ago.
Approach plates in the car. The airspeed you don't have.
If God meant man to fly, He'd have given him more money.
What's the difference between God and pilots? God doesn't think he's a
pilot.
Flying is not dangerous; crashing is dangerous.
Flying is the perfect vocation for a man who wants to feel like a boy,
but not for one who still is.
There are four ways to fly: the right way, the wrong way, the company
way and the captain's way. Only one counts.
A good simulator check ride is like successful surgery on a cadaver.
Asking what a pilot thinks about the FAA is like asking a fireplug
what it thinks about dogs.
Trust your captain .... but keep your seat belt securely fastened.
An airplane may disappoint a good pilot, but it won't surprise him.
Any pilot who relies on a terminal forecast can be sold the Brooklyn
Bridge. If he relies on winds-aloft reports he can be sold
Niagara Falls.
The friendliest stewardesses are those on the trip home.
Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad
judgment.
Being an airline pilot would be great if you didn't have to go on all
those trips.
Aviation is not so much a profession as it is a disease.
The nicer an airplane looks, the better it flies.
Why did God invent women when airplanes were so much fun?
Remember when sex was safe and flying was dangerous?
If it flies, floats, or fucks; it's always cheaper to rent than to
buy.
Renting airplanes is like renting sex: It's difficult to arrange on
short notice on Saturday, the fun things always cost more, and
someone's always looking at their watch.
There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing:
Unfortunately, no one knows what they are.
It's a good landing if you can still get the doors open.
Passengers prefer old captains and young stewardesses.
The only thing worse than a captain who never flew as copilot is a
copilot who once was a captain.
Be nice to your first officer, he may be your captain at your next
airline.
Any pilot who does not privately consider himself the best in the game
is in the wrong game.
It's best to keep the pointed end going forward as much as possible.
If God had intended man to fly he would have given him enough money
for a Bonanza.
If an earthquake suddenly opened a fissure in a runway that caused an
accident, the NTSB would find a way to blame it on pilot error.
Any attempt to stretch fuel is guaranteed to increase headwind.
A thunderstorm is never as bad on the inside as it appears on the
outside. It's worse.
Son, I was flying airplanes for a living when you were still in liquid
form.
"Let's make a 360 and get the hell out of here!?!"
It's easy to make a small fortune in aviation. You start with a large
fortune.
A male pilot is a confused soul who talks about women when he's
flying, and about flying when he's with a woman.
A fool and his money are soon flying more airplane than he can handle.
A thunderstorm is nature's way of saying, "Up yours."
the end does not justify his means.
The last thing every pilot does before leaving the aircraft after
making a gear up landing is to put the gear selection lever in the
'down' position.
Remember, you're always a student in an airplane.
Keep looking around; there's always something you've missed.
Try to keep the number of your landings equal to the number of your
takeoffs.
Takeoff's are optional. Landings are mandatory.
You cannot propel yourself forward by patting yourself on the back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Notifying family on the ground |
>
>
><< If you get a licensed ground station I belive you can use multicomm (122.9
> if I recall properly). I know people who just "fake it" and use a
> different aircraft's call sign but I wouldn't advocate it. There is also
> the air-to-air frequency of 122.75. >>
>
>Oh, you mean like using my aircraft call sign while standing in the hangar
>with a hand-held comm to converse with a buddy flying overhead, on 122.75?
Right.
>I would _never_ do such an unlawful thing ;-)
None of us would. No one would even *consider* carrying their handheld in
their car to provide information to aircraft in the air without getting a
ground station license.
>Is there no respect any
>more for the Communications Act of 1934, as amended?!
Well, certainly the US Government doesn't respect the Comm Act of 1934.
The restrictions that they added with the Comm Act of 1997 are, in some
ways, as restrictive as the limitations that were placed on wireless use
behind the Iron Curtain back at the height of the Cold War. Let's not go
there because I have a tendency to get "all het up."
>...Good idea. I like the glider freq's, too. Could come in handy.
>But not wishing to flaunt the FCC, I might just apply for a license to use
>122.9 at home, since I will at least have a federally-recognized private
>airstrip on the premises. We'll see...
That helps.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | still wish you were flying |
Sorry for the long, not exactly rv related post, but I thought you might enjoy
some. My father is a retired Air force fighter pilot (f-86 & F4's)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark A. Van-Y" <mvanyrv6(at)swlink.net> |
| Subject: | no rv-list email in days |
is the system down or is it at my end. haven,t got any email in days from
the list.
what,s up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: split-S from cruise ... |
I for one truely enjoy this discussion about a split S from cruise in an
RV. I have received aerobatic instruction and I feel qualified to
perform the basic aerobatic maneuvers. But, I never even thought about
doing a split S from cruise (in an RV) just to reverse course, and I
marveled at the elegence of a 45 degree upline prior to the roll to kill
excess airspeed so that the maneuver can be safely completed. As was
pointed out, this is just a reverse cuban eight.
As for teaching aerobatics on the internet, I agree get good
instruction. On the other hand, the internet is a great source of tips
and explainations on why things are done the way they are. For example,
in competition aerobatics why do you set the line prior to the next
control input? I learned the reason for this from the RV List, not from
my aerobatic instructor!
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
> >tho' someone might construe it as "instructing via internet," is a
> >perfectly valid use of this medium. I have done it and you, a pilot who
> >flys aerobatics, have asked a legitimate question. Seems a legitimate use
> >of this medium to me.
>
> split-S'ing. We are all interested in discussing flying techniques (to
> include aerobatics) on the Internet. It is, in fact, a very legitimate
> subject. But its relatively safe for me to try out some newly read
> technique in landing or take-off. It's not so safe for me to try out new
> maneuvers or techniques in aerobatics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | michael brown <browngalaxy(at)ezol.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted:Books or Videos RV related |
Hi, I want to beg, borrow, steal, (or pay) for any used construction
videos, Info packets, books, for (RV-6A, Engine,firewall forward, how to
use metal working tools, etc).
Please e-mail me with anything you have.
Also I'm looking for any RV pictures you can send me.
I really want one of a finished cockpit.
Thanks in advance
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: How much Navaid Throw? |
Hello Paul,
I finally got around to measuring the throw on my Navaid installation;
It is almost exactly 2 inches.
Again both the arms are pointed up, with everything under the passengers
floorboard.
Ron V. RV-6Q, expect engine start and some taxiing tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Insurance info...... |
All $1,000,000 property/$100,000 per passenger full ground and flight.
I have approx. 1000hrs in tailwheel and 5 hrs in RV-6.
Being a Dutchman, I choose AOPA.
Ron V. RV-6Q, Hope to crank and taxi tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
>
>Mike,
>
>I've only had a chance to compare Vans to Sam James. Have seen more
>speed
>with Sams (4-5mph).
Mike,
I am also interested in performance gains like evryone else so thanks for
the post, but we still need more specific information.
Which Van's wheel pants are you compairing them to?
November 05, 1998 - November 10, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fu