RV-Archive.digest.vol-fw
November 16, 1998 - November 23, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up conopy |
In a message dated 11/16/98 5:41:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
borgny(at)rconnect.com writes:
<< Everything came
out OK except I can't open it from the outside. >>
The only solution for this is to leave your canopy open until first flight,
then,
just "stay in the airplane" . You can have someone else do quick turn-around
inspections for you and fill your tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up conopy |
>
>
>
> << Everything came out OK except I can't open it (the canopy) from the
> outside. >>
I have seen many builders build a small handle at the rear lower corner of the
tip
up canopy with a 3" x3/4" x3/4" angle. Just rivet it on at the same time as the
canopy side trim pieces.
DGM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT location |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
You guys are making me have second thoughts on mounting my elt antenna in
the wingtip. I had several others recommend this, but it does seem that
the wings would be the first thing to go in a crash. I may just mount the
antenna somewhere in the cockpit, even though most of them I have seen
look ugly there. Will have to do some serious inventing on this one!
>
>>
>>I put my ELT right where the plans show that the battery would go if
>you
>>had to mount the battery in back. ...
>>so I ran RG-58 cable out to one wingtip, and
>>will install the antenna horizontally in the wingtip, mounting it to
>the
>>tip rib and bend back along the wing tip edge.
>
>What is the liklihood that the coax running between the ELT and its
>antenna
>out in the wingtip will remain intact in a crash? Usually the wing
>structure is badly damaged in a crash, even a survivable one. It
>strikes
>me that putting the ELT antenna further back on or in the empenage
>would
>make a whole bunch more sense.
>
>Of course, if you are only putting the ELT in to meet the letter of
>the
>regs and don't really care if it actually works, your approach is just
>fine. Heck, most ELTs don't work in a crash anyway. (They work just
>fine
>when you make a hard landing tho'!)
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite
>1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
> O-
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Hi Wayne:
Need to know the model of your engine. The connections are not the same for
both the 0320 and 0360. If you have a fax or access to one will fax the
correct schematic when I have your model number.
Eustace Bowhay Salmon Arm, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sioux Air tools |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
> Have you been good enough this year to deserve a Sioux Drill? :)
>
Anybody had any experience with the Sioux rivit guns? Are they worth the
difference?
martin shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler RV6 |
>
>Denis,
>
>I took a little different approach to this. I controlled the flow of oil
to
>the cooler. Was much simpler and easier to build up. A ball valve in the
>inlet side of the cooler, hooked by a bowden cable to the inside for in
>flight adjustment. My oil temp had run cool to start with so it worked
>great. Was able to control the temp easy.
>John C Darby Jr.
One of the reasons that Lyc. uses the type of bypass that alows some oil
circulation through the cooler, even when the oil is cold, ir to prevent the
oil from congealing in the cooler in really cold conditions. If this
happens and then you open the valve, the oil may not circulate due to the
congealed oil. So the story goes anyhow.
Dan Morris
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercoms, cockpit noise, and mics |
n.com>
>Recently I started out with an amplified dynamic mic on my helmet because
>several people told me that the military amplified dynamic mic is supposed
>to handle cockpit noise better than electret mics. I was unimpressed and
>asked the vendor to send me an electret mic to use in place of the
>dynamic. He told me in no uncertain terms that the dynamic is *MUCH*
>better than the electret in a high noise level but he would send me one
>just to prove it to myself.
Back in my brief brush with noise cancelling microphones, I found
a big difference between military headsets too . . . others have
told me that headsets designed for helicopters were best for
noise cancelling. At that time, the electret mics were just coming
on the market and while their capsule specs were as good or better
than the military dynamics, you could louse up a perfectly good
microphone's performance with poor design and/or process control
on assembling the capsule's enclosure.
>. . . Turns out the electret works much better in
>both my RV-4 and my Yak. OTOH, my Softcomm's are still the champ in the
>noisy cockpit. BTW, the Oregon Aero "Mic Muff" helps a lot too.
>
>So, if you are having intercom problems and you don't think there is
>anything you can do, borrow various headsets and try them. You may find a
>solution where you thought one didn't exist. Clearly not all mics are
>created equal. It sure would be nice if headset reviews would test the
>microphones as well as the earspeakers and ANR.
I've been thinking about doing some testing for an article,
just too many projects in the higher priority slots. You're quite
right, I've found price to be a general measure of ruggedness but
in terms of comfort, hearing and speaking quality, there are some
surprises to be had in some lower cost products.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Wiring |
>AeroElectric connect the "B" lead from the Alternator (Charging wire)
>first to the Master Relay which then runs to the "Bus" and the Battery.
This reduces the number of fat-wire, firewall penetrations,
numbers of heavy-current carrying conductors behind the panel
for less noise and magnetic interference.
>Vans connects the "B" lead from the Alternator first to the "Bus" then
>to the battery through
>the Master Relay.
. . . cause that the way Cessna's have done it for nigh onto
50 years . . .
>Question: Vans arrangment would allow an ammeter on the "Bus" to battery
>wire to show
>if current is flowing to the Battery (Charging) or from the Battery
>(Discharge). Where
>would you install the Ammeter on the AeroElectric arrangement to show
>Charge/Discharge
>of the Battery? The lead between Alt "B" to battery would only show that
>the Alternator
>was charging the battery but would not show amount of discharge idf the
>Alternator fails
>(Would only show zero.). If it was on the battery to "Bus" lead it would
>always show discharge.
>
>What am I missing?
Not a thing. Ammeters of all types are useful provided that the
pilot knows what they measure and the significance of the reading
with respect to system operation. First, let's presume that you
WILL have a good voltmeter and some ACTIVE form of low-voltage
warning should an alternator crap . . . beyond that, it's a toss-up.
If you REALLY want a minus-0-plus reading battery ammeter, then
you'll have to wire per Van's drawings -OR- use a hall effect based
current sensor on the battery lead.
Given that a voltmeter and LOW V warning is your #1 defense against
the black panel syndrom, I favor the simplicity of watching alternator
output in terms of percent of alternator capacity . . . that's why
my ammeters are calibrated in 0-100% and supplied with the appropriate
shunt for the alternator. We've accomodated alternators from 8 amps to
125 amps with a single instrument.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl Covering |
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
I want to strip away just enough of the vinyl protection to allow
riveting. My question is how long can I leave on the rest of the
vinyl?
I've read that it shouldn't be left on "too long,"
but what happens if leave it on until I'm done with the entire airplane?
>Peter Christensen
>Marietta, GA
Peter,
I'm moving pretty slowley, that is, I'm just tearing off the plastic from
the inside of my HS, after about two years, in order to prime it. I had
no trouble at all. The temp and humidity may be different in your shop.
Larry Mac Donald Rochester, N.Y. lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Wiring |
>The only reason I was favouring the (BL) option was recent experience with
my van.
>I noticed that when there is a small load the ammeter is almost zero.(Need
to turn
>the lights and heater fan on to get a good indication of charging) So the
>difference between a good alternator and a failed one was almost undetectable
>unless there was a large load.
Which is why you need a voltmeter. The battery ammeter hovers around zero
under what appears to be "normal" conditions too . . . except that you can
have a bus voltage that is much too low to recharge the battery and not
know it.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Does anyone know of a good quality tow bar for RV6A how much and where. >>
Look in the Yeller Pages <http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm> for
JAK's Products (Ken Barto). He makes good towbars for the 6A.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Stumped again, need to order fittings hose and hardware for the oil
cooler but I don't know where the connections are on the accessory
case for oil out and return, also what size hose 1/2 or 3/8? any
help appreciated. >>
The following applies to new engines from Van's.
Oil out to the cooler comes from the 3/8" NPT port between the spin-on filter
base and the governor pad. This should connect to the lower port (if
vertical) of the oil cooler.
Oil return from the top port of the cooler should connect to the 3/8" NPT port
just below and slightly to the left of the crankcase breather fitting.
All oil hoses should be -8 (1/2"). I used AQP hose from Skybolt. I used
straight stainless steel fittings on the engine (Shulgin's has them) and
aluminum 45 deg fittings on the filter. The oil out port interferes with the
standard Champion filter if you don't use a hose with a 45 deg end.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercoms, cockpit noise, and mics |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> just too many projects in the higher priority slots. You're quite
> right, I've found price to be a general measure of ruggedness but
> in terms of comfort, hearing and speaking quality, there are some
> surprises to be had in some lower cost products.
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> =================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercoms, cockpit noise, and mics |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Sorry Bob,sent before the comment.......Care to expand on the
'Surprises' that you know of.
Planning to get an ANR headset of sorts in the near future. Is this a
case of' you get what you pay for'?
Derek Reed
> . You're quite
> right, I've found price to be a general measure of ruggedness but
> in terms of comfort, hearing and speaking quality, there are some
> surprises to be had in some lower cost products.
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> =================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuseage side skins, RV-6 |
>
> Hi, I would like some advise on the fitting of the fuselage side skins in
> the area between bulkheads 604 and 605. In fitting the seat ribs I
> matched the outside ribs to the curve of the longeron. Now I find the
> armrest ribs have a different curve (not as pronounced). In other words,
> if I fitted the skins, they would bend in at the armrest and then out
> again to the seatrib area. I think I would like the skin to lay straight
> from the top to the bottom. Question: Does the side skin change from a
> curve at the top to a straight area at the bottom? If so I will have to
> change my outside seat ribs to something closer to the curve of the
> armrest rib?
The armrest and the top longeron should be the same shape, and by the
plans the seat rib would also match this shape. My longeron and armrest
are of the same shape and my seat ribs are flat and the skins fit well.
I would opt for a lesser seat curve, or flat, so as not to have the
concave side skin.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 Hung the engine this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Please explain for builders what you mean excactly! All construction
details are appreciated.
>That is what splash guards are for!!
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO ||jigging fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
RV guys,
A gentleman from Kansas finished his RV6a in 1994 and spent aprox.
$20,000. He shopped for a deal on a pre-prepunched kit someone started
and abandoned, bought a rebuildable 150 hp 0-320 and did the rebuild
himself(has around $5,000 invested in it and burns auto gas), painted it
in his friends auto paint shop, simple interior, no fancy gyros,
handheld radio and gps mounted in panel, used strobes,......etc. I have
seen this plane several times and it is very nice. Go to
<http://villagenet.com/~scottg/pictures/p3.jpg> and see the panel. By
the way, the $20k included buying tools! So, IMHO $20k would be very
tough to duplicate but I think that $30k can be done with careful
shopping.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler RV6 |
Dan;
Point well taken. I never closed the valve completely when in flight.
After a few trials and errors, I placed a mark on the shaft of the bowden
cable as to what position was 'normal'. Then adjusted from there after a
time in flight to see what the conditions were doing to my oil temp. Yes,
it was more to the closed than open position due to my oil normally running
very low in temp, but never 'closed'.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>One of the reasons that Lyc. uses the type of bypass that alows some oil
>circulation through the cooler, even when the oil is cold, ir to prevent
the
>oil from congealing in the cooler in really cold conditions. If this
>happens and then you open the valve, the oil may not circulate due to the
>congealed oil. So the story goes anyhow.
>
>Dan Morris
>RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT location |
Von,
There was a big discussion on this a while back, is probably in the
archives. I placed mine (RV6) on the luggage floor just aft of the
passenger seat with the ant mounted on an angle bracket. The ant went part
way up the plex. there, but a rubber tip kept it from scratching. At that
position, you can reach over and unlock the ELT with your rt. arm and take
it with you. If you carpet the luggage floor, I guess you could actually
fit it over the ELT and make it invisible.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
. I may just mount the
>antenna somewhere in the cockpit, even though most of them I have seen
>look ugly there. Will have to do some serious inventing on this one!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
Guess what, they don't work!
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
>In a message dated 11/16/98 6:06:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>wknight(at)adelphia.net writes:
>
><< presents big problems when you open it and it has been raining as water
>will
> spash all over your radios. >>
>That is what splash guards are for!!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | WE KNOW WHO YOU ARE !!! |
Well Listers it appears that the RV-List Fund Raiser is winding down. Soon
Matt will be posting the List Of Contributors. (LOC). Since everyone
contributed except ONE person I have suggested to Matt that instead of
typing ALL those hundreds of names of the people that HAVE contributed, he
just put that one non-contributing persons name on the list of
NON-contributors. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE AND SO DO WE! What? You don't think
so? Well read on ________! (Choose one...MR., MRS., MS., Other Politically
Correct Gender Description!)
WE KNOW WHO YOU ARE and to avoid any embarrassment we won't mention your
name here! We will just tell you enough about yourself that you will know
we aren't messing around! And you still have time to contribute and get on
the LOC!
You live in a ____________________ (Choose again please.... House,
Apartment, Tent on the beach, Cardboard box, Airplane hanger {don't we all
wish}) and have a ______________(You know what to do here!.............Dog,
Cat, Bird, Gerbil, Pet rock, Some weird pet!) And you and your
_________________(Your getting the idea now..... Wife, Girlfriend, Husband,
Boyfriend, Significant Other?) have ____________ (Choose again
please........No,.5,1,2,3,4,5,6,{forget it you can't afford to contribute
if you have more than six, in fact you shouldn't be considering building an
RV!}) kids!
Have I convinced you yet? Well you have _____________(pick again please
......Blonde, Brown, Gray, NO! ) hair and your____________ ( It's almost
over!......Mustache, Beard, Sideburns {is Burt on the list?}, Hairless)
face will give you away anywhere! You only have
enough_____________(Dollars, Pesos, Quid, Francs, Denero, Piasters.....Oh
Heck, just put Money on this line!) left to make a contribution to the
RV-List Fund Raiser because you spent all the rest of your money on your
RV-___(3,4,6,6A,8,8A) __________(Quickbuild, Prepunched) kit! SO if I
haven't described you well enough yet then allow me to be more clear, you
are________________(your name here!) And your going to contribute at the
last minute just to MAKE Matt type all those names! (AND spell them
correctly!) You DO have a mean streak don't you?
Now please print this out and fill in the blanks and remember:
You can contact the Administrator at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Please have your Credit Card ready!
Or if you wish, you can send your opinions and a generous check too:
Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
It will all be over soon! , or is that, It will be over all too soon!, or
should I say, Soon it will all be over! Oh heck, It's almost done! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder oil canning |
A true oil can is when you push on a section of skin and it pops in as
another section pops out. Pushing the section that poped out would then pop
out the section pushed in. Most of us also consider an oil can to be when
you push in on a section and it pops the other panel out, but returns when
you release pressure.
I also have this on one side of one section (between the stiffeners) of the
lower rudder. Not going to worry about it now; in the end I beleive I'll
decide it's satisfactory and go ahead and use it. I'm pretty positive I got
mine when I made the leading edge bend; I must have bent the flange a little.
>
>could someone please describe oilcanning again
>
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>My rudder has the same problem. I decided to leave it an move on. My
>>flaps and ailerons show no sign of oil caning. I followed the Orndoff
>>method of drilling the skin to a flat surface, etc. My oil caning is only
>>on one side of the rudder which leads me to believe it has something to do
>>with how I completed the trailing edge bend.
>>
>>Not sure though so will watch this thread with interest.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Vince Himsl
>>RV8 Wings
>>Moscow, Idaho USA
>>
>>
>>
>>At 02:26 PM 98.11.14 , you wrote:
>>>
>>> I just got my rudder into the V bock jig for the first time and
>>>clecoed it together (the end ribs aren't drilled yet and the skin hasn't
>>>been drilled to the spar). There's an area on the lower right side that
>>>oil cans in when I push on it. .....
>>> My question is, is this serious enough to try to do anything about?
>>........
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
edge distance on flanges...do they apply to the side of the flange connected
to the web? do you measure from the web or from where the radius starts? for
example (hypothetically of course!) you drill a hole with enough room to
form a shop head on the flange and good distance to the web, but pretty
close to the start of the radius. is this ok? if not, any suggestions on how
to fix it. assume that the hole in question has already been match drilled
to a skin (again, all hypothetical).
louis cappucci
6a-qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WE KNOW WHO YOU ARE !!! |
I don't know if this campaign is workign or not, but I have contributed
for the first time in my life, and have been free loading for years!
Personnally I put these fund raiser messages in the top ten percent of
RV list fun and entertaining material.
Probably proves you need several personality quirks to build an RV, one
of which is a twisted but over developed sense of humor.
Way to go
......anon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | electric trim failure |
Sorry to be late on this post, but it just occurred to me. I a m a
little slow sometimes.
The failure of the relay ?
Can't you avoid this failure node by using Matt's governor? I got one
and need no relays for my assorted switches!
How about a comment from Matt or Electric Bob on this? Inquiring minds
want to know!!
D Walsh My failures (trim) have all been graceful and due to @#%$##
AWG "extra puny" wire supplied by MAC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT-UPDATE |
Well I have nine guys committed and one on the fence at this point. If you
haven't checked out this deal yet, read below and check out the web page.
This discount is better than any ever offered before and even better than
you could have gotten at Oshkosh! The reason for this offer to us is
obvious. There are a LOT of RV's flying and being built, so if Bill can get
this instrument into a few of our planes at this fantastic price he knows
there will be a lot of orders to follow after others see how well it works.
He's a good business man and knows his product works. Just ask John
Fasching-> ( fasching(at)amigo.net ) He has one in his RV-6A. I would like
to get 2 or 3 more guys in on this in case someone backs out at the last
( prober(at)iwaynet.net ). I am going to try to get something into the next
RVator also because Bill didn't give me a cap on the number at this price!
I would like to see all RVer's that want one get it cheap! Thanks,
AL (614) 890-6301
Listers,
I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $35.00. That is a
savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater. This
price would be cash or check. For Credt Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
more about the LRI go to:
http://www.lift reserve.com/
and have a look at it and the particulars. I'm sure John Fasching (below)
will answer any questions you might have also. Please contact me on or off
list if you may be interested. AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator - DISCOUNT |
(Sorry had to fix the URL again!)
Well I have nine guys committed and one on the fence at this point. If you
haven't checked out this deal yet, read below and check out the web page.
This discount is better than any ever offered before and even better than
you could have gotten at Oshkosh! The reason for this offer to us is
obvious. There are a LOT of RV's flying and being built, so if Bill can get
this instrument into a few of our planes at this fantastic price he knows
there will be a lot of orders to follow after others see how well it works.
He's a good business man and knows his product works. Just ask John
Fasching-> ( fasching(at)amigo.net ) He has one in his RV-6A. I would like
to get 2 or 3 more guys in on this in case someone backs out at the last
( prober(at)iwaynet.net ). I am going to try to get something into the next
RVator also because Bill didn't give me a cap on the number at this price!
I would like to see all RVer's that want one get it cheap! Thanks,
AL (614) 890-6301
Listers,
I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $35.00. That is a
savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater. This
price would be cash or check. For Credt Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
more about the LRI go to:
http://www.liftreserve.com/
and have a look at it and the particulars. I'm sure John Fasching (below)
will answer any questions you might have also. Please contact me on or off
list if you may be interested. AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Just built a MicroEncoder |
Listers...
For those of you thinking about building a micro-encoder, I have just done
it. The manual was excellent. The instructions were easy to read and very
straightforward. After about 20 hours of assembly, I powered it up, and it
did not work. What a let-down! I thought I did everything right....what
could be wrong?
Well, I called Ron at RMI and told him the specific symptoms of my problem,
and he said, "oh that must be because you did not cut your leads short
enough on your display board, and they were poking the display, causing a
ground." Well, I went home, took it apart, cut the leads shorter, and
Viola! It fired right up, gave me my altitude at my house, and all worked
well...This guy really knows his product. He even told me to call him at
home to make sure everything worked out well.
I highly recommend RMI's MicroEncoder, and I will soon purchase the
MicroMonitor.
Those of you who were going to pay the $300 to have them assemble it, it's
not worth it...save the $300 for a simple, fun, and rewarding project.
Sam, you may want to publish a review on this one...I'd put one on my site,
but you write much better than most of us!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Inboard Ribs |
Hello,
Location:
Wing; three most inboard ribs i.e. wing walk area.
Background:
Plans say that these ribs can be riveted to the spar now and use pop rivets
or special bucking bars to attach the skins, OR you can cleco the ribs to
the spar(s) now and then rivet them in one at a time upon completion of the
wing. I am leaning towards the last option.
Question:
Request recommendations from those who have reached this stage.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, Idaho USA
________________________________________________________________________________
I go to chapter 203 in Palm Beach Gardens. How is the RV building coming
along. If I can offer any assistance to you or to any of the builders in your
Chapter, please call me at 561-748-2429. Happy RV-Ating!!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMI mEncoder |
>For those of you thinking about building a micro-encoder.......
I was impressed enough with the features of the uEncoder, I also welded one
together. The kit is very well laid out (the components are arranged IN THE
ORDER they are to be soldered in) and instructions are second to none. It is
an easy build on those nights when the garage is too cold to go out and
pound rivets. My completed kit initally did work (what a feeling of
accomplishment) and, after doing the "burn in", it quit. I sent it back to
Wyoming, something they encourage you to do if you can't figure out what you
screwed up, and they 'fixed' it for free (pushed one of the microchips more
firmly in its socket...DUH) and sent it back after doing the final testing
for me.
I have now had it in the airplane for 170+ hours and REALLY like it. It is
one of those instruments you use several of the features of every flight (I
won't list all of them here). My pre-takeoff checklist includes a density
altitude check; push the switch down and there it is. The altimeter is
somewhat more sensitive than the analog one in the hole next door. Cruising:
what is my true airspeed? Push the switch, there it is. OAT: constant
readout. Etc.
I also have analog VSI, ASI and altimeter and find I use them along with the
uEncoder, depending on what information I need. My mind more quickly knows
needle position, so a quick glance at the ASI in the pattern is easlier (the
needle is in a certain PLACE on the instrument) than "figuring" what the
digital readout is saying . In constant altitude turns (practicing the
fundamentals) it is easier keeping the needle in position than trying to
chase the digital.
There are many other features; lots of stuff in a small, light weight good
looking package. If you want to discuss them, wire me off-list. (Oh, yeah,
it IS the encoder for the transponder.) It provides some redundency, also,
even though it gets its information from the same pitot system. It also
looks cool in the panel. People always ask what it is. Weapons Status
Display, I tell 'em. 'Really?'
RMI has a web site: www.rkymtn.com
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Looking at the first year's worth of wear and tear......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: fuseage side skins, RV-6 |
> Hi, I would like some advise on the fitting of the fuselage side skins in
> the area between bulkheads 604 and 605.
I ran into the same thing, after I had the fuselage skeleton all put
together. On the advice of another builder, I fluted the seat ribs to
match the curve of the arm-rest. Only problem was this effectively
shortened the rib, and thereby the distance between the spars, by about
1/16 of an inch . BAD! But not too difficult to fix, I just added a
shim between the aft end of the rib and the rear spar. If you haven't
yet put the fuse together you could re-bend the flange, add a shim at
the front, or something else like that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: edge distance |
Louis,
You want that 2D distance from the rivet to the edge of the material or next
hole, so being close to the flange is Ok - there's plenty of material in the
web to spread the stress. The idea is to have enough material around the
hole to spread the load on the part plus the stress caused by expanding the
rivet, such that cracks won't develop. The 2D edge distance rule works on
normal skin thickness of aluminum.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
edge distance on flanges...do they apply to the side of the flange connected
to the web? do you measure from the web or from where the radius starts? for
example (hypothetically of course!) you drill a hole with enough room to
form a shop head on the flange and good distance to the web, but pretty
close to the start of the radius. is this ok? if not, any suggestions on how
to fix it. assume that the hole in question has already been match drilled
to a skin (again, all hypothetical).
louis cappucci
6a-qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder oil canning |
>I just got my rudder into the V bock jig for the first time and clecoed it
>together (the end ribs aren't drilled yet and the skin hasn't been drilled
to >the spar). There's an area on the lower right side that oil cans in
when I >push on it. .....
This may have been said already, but wait until you rivet things before you
worry, then don't worry anyway. Unless it dints way in, compaired to the
rest of the rudder. The skins on the control surfaces are thin and will ALL
"oilcan" to an extent, most of which you will never see or feel. You just
can't get them that 'tight'.
I was out flying one evening, admiring a typical Rocky Mountain sunset and
the sun/shadows were at a tangential angle to the ailerons and I
noticed.....the skin kind of "flutters" between the ribs. Yikes, I thought.
Did a 180 and saw the same thing on the other aileron. This is NOT aileron
movement/flutter we know and hate, but just the air turbulance across the
surface enough to cause the SKIN to move EVER so slightly. If the sun had
not been at such a flat angle, I never would have seen it, and you have to
look REALLY closely to see it. I also have the airplane rigged for a 180 mph
cruise. If I get over 195, I get a slightly heavy left wing. Probably a
small bit of "oilcanning" of the aileron skin. Or something.
Keep building............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> edge distance on flanges...do they apply to the side of the flange connected
> to the web?
No. But you have to have clearance for the shop head and dimple if any.
There are ways to make a dimple pretty close to the web. One is to
grind off the edge of a dimple die, another is to use a "vice-grip
dimpler" and grind off the edge of that. I have a modified vice-grip
dimpler for just this situation.
If it's .032 skin, you could machine c-sink the skin and not worry about
dimpling the rib. If the skin is less than .032, and only a few rivets
close to the web, you could use NAS1097 (reduced head) rivets and
machine c-sink. In this case you might consider also adding some
dimpled rivets in between (and further from the web).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just built a MicroEncoder |
"Besing, Paul" wrote:
>
>
> Listers...
>
> For those of you thinking about building a micro-encoder, I have just done
> it. The manual was excellent. The instructions were easy to read and very
> straightforward. After about 20 hours of assembly, I powered it up, and it
> did not work. What a let-down! I thought I did everything right....what
> could be wrong?
>
> Well, I called Ron at RMI and told him the specific symptoms of my problem,
> and he said, "oh that must be because you did not cut your leads short
> enough on your display board, and they were poking the display, causing a
> ground." Well, I went home, took it apart, cut the leads shorter, and
> Viola! It fired right up, gave me my altitude at my house, and all worked
> well...This guy really knows his product. He even told me to call him at
> home to make sure everything worked out well.
>
> I highly recommend RMI's MicroEncoder, and I will soon purchase the
> MicroMonitor.
>
> Those of you who were going to pay the $300 to have them assemble it, it's
> not worth it...save the $300 for a simple, fun, and rewarding project.
>
> Sam, you may want to publish a review on this one...I'd put one on my site,
> but you write much better than most of us!
Dittos.
Just finishing my uMonitor........stay tuned.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WE KNOW WHO YOU ARE !!! |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
> ......No,.5,1,2,3,4,5,6,{forget it you can't afford to contribute
> if you have more than six , in fact you shouldn't be considering building an
> RV!}) kids!
Hey Al - I have seven kids and two airplanes - Do I get a refund? :-))
I love this list - you get to meet the best of people here.
Smooth air.
DGM RV-6
Sothern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWIW: #2000 RV |
In a message dated 11/16/98 7:46:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, jwb(at)europa.com
writes:
<< On November 13, 1998 the counter rolled over to 2000 as the 2000th RV
completed was reported to Van's Aircraft. >>
Are you keeping the builder anon. or are you going to give him a little
publicity in Kitplanes, etc?
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | I knew there would be one!!! |
Doug,
I KNEW there would be at least one person out there that had more than 6
kids and is building an RV! Did your wife buy you the kit so you would
leave her alone? :-)
Thanks for your contribution, although you probably could make a case for a
refund!!! AL
>
>
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>> ......No,.5,1,2,3,4,5,6,{forget it you can't afford to contribute
>> if you have more than six , in fact you shouldn't be considering
building an
>> RV!}) kids!
>
>Hey Al - I have seven kids and two airplanes - Do I get a refund? :-))
>
>I love this list - you get to meet the best of people here.
>
>Smooth air.
>
>DGM RV-6
>Sothern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
>Please explain for builders what you mean excactly! All construction
>details are appreciated.
>>That is what splash guards are for!!
> Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO ||jigging fuselage||
Lothar,
I have a "splash guard" over my radio stack on my six tip up (and it does
work). The only downside to mine is that it weighs a bit.
I fabricated a three sided box for the radio stack. The top and both
sides are riveted to the panel and extend through the sub panel. I riveted
an angle on the top portion that attaches to the sub panel with a couple of
screws for additional support. On the rear of the box, I fabricated an end
plate and in this, I installed a 3 inch (?) cooling fan from Radio Shack.
There is room on the top portion between the panel and sub panel for a
gounding block or positive terminal strip. I have a power strip on mine
with a protective cover made to screw down over the strip. Makes a very
easy place to make connections.
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
I just added up all the stuff I have receipts for and this is what I
spent on my RV-6, excluding shipping and tools. I expect I spent another
$500-$1000 on those $20 at a time items.
As you will note, it is basic VFR but not bare bones. I am looking at an
engine overhaul in 12-18 months and no paint yet.
Airframe Kits $10,899 slider, elect. flaps, eng mount
Engine & Prop $6,995 high time eng, used Warnke prop, accesories,
plumbing
Instruments $2,601 A/S, Alt, VVI, G-meter, vert card compass,
turn-coord, RMI engine monitor
Avionics $2,511 Val 760, Re-man transponder, Pilot III GPS,
intercomm
Misc $2,249 Whelen strobes/nav lights, dual brakes,
upholstery, etc
Total Receipts $25,255
Bob Hall
6.5 hours and still grinning
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, Billy" <billy.wilson(at)lmco.com> |
I hadn't thought about the 'water on the radios' problem. Fore-warned is
fore-armed.
> From: William G. Knight[SMTP:wknight(at)adelphia.net]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 1998 7:44 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
>
> Not necessarily so. The slider may in fact be easier to build. The tip up
> presents big problems when you open it and it has been raining as water
> will
> spash all over your radios. This has happened to a local builder three
> times
> and he has had to replace his radios each time. The tip up also looks
> "hokey" and can't be opened much on ground for cooling. The view from
> inside
> it, in my judgement, is like some kind of carnival ride. Though some
> builders think this is neat and "new age," it ain't traditional.
> From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 2:04 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> Hello All
> >> As long as we're talking about canopy, I would like to solicit
> comments
> >> / experiences about Tip-Up vs Slider. I don't need to decide yet, but
> I'm
> >> always (literally, always!) thinking ahead. Pros 'n cons??
> >> David Wentzell
> >
> >Tip up has better visibility and is easier to make. It is easier to cool
> your self off with a slider
> >though.
> >
> >DGM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/17/98 4:04:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
Please explain for builders what you mean excactly! All construction
details are appreciated.
>That is what splash guards are for!! >>
I am not currently at that stage of my project, but have given some thought to
splash guard for avionics and electrical equiptment. They can be fashioned
rather simply out of fiberglass. They can also be made to drain to the
outside of the aircraft to minimize moisture inside the aircraft. I would
make a splash guard with upturned lips on the outside. I would put spuds onto
the low spots on these lips to attach flexible tubing to. I would then direct
these tubes to a junction, where one tube could be routed out the bottom of
the fuse. As far as I know, nobody has "plans" for this, as different things
are tried by different people to accomplish the same task.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT location |
Seems to me the best place to have the elt antenna on a fixed gear (
especially tailwheel ) aircraft is on the belly between the gear. Elt could
then be mounted handy in the cockpit with a very short antenna lead. In
most serious accidents it is likely the plane will be upside down at some
point and between the legs is the safest place. If it remains upright you
will probably be in a position to use your radio. This theory is backed up
by nature, it's where the family jewels (heirlooms) are mounted too, think
how vulnerable they would be mounted on you head. Still the Feds will
probably want it mounted on the top so it will be buried in the mud when
you need it. My view, Brian
> From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
> You guys are making me have second thoughts on mounting my elt antenna in
> the wingtip. I had several others recommend this, but it does seem that
> the wings would be the first thing to go in a crash. I may just mount the
> antenna somewhere in the cockpit, even though most of them I have seen
> look ugly there. Will have to do some serious inventing on this one!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
I have always thought that if I built a side-by-side airplane (ugh) I would
put the pilot's seat on the right. That way I would make no modification at
all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
'Course the passenger would have to put up with backward controls, but if he
didn't like it, he could fly with somebody else ;^)
But this is just idle thinking. I have an RV-4 because the pilot belongs on
the centerline of his airplane.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
(Ducking behind blast shield)
>
>>Most of the aircraft I have flown with a stick have had the throttle
>quadrant on the left side ( stick in right hand, throttle in the left). I
>was fortunate enough to have flown a P 51 for several years and wanted to
>bring some of that old feeling back. I mounted a throttle, prop and
>mixture quad on the left side just below and forward of the instrument
>panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glareshield Covering |
Listers:
I have arrived at the point of painting the cabin interior. I have the procedure
sorted out as to the primer & paint but have come up short while trying to decide
how to cover/paint the top of the glare shield. I would like to trim the nearest
edge with tubing as per Tony B's plans but hesitate to cover it all with vinyl
as
I think that the heat over a period of time would make things look trashy. Is is
a
good idea to just paint the area with flat black paint to stop reflections? Also
has anyone tried wrinkle paint on the instrument panel? If it is used , then how
do the labels stick on?
Thanks for any input in advance. I' m sure there is someone out there amongst the
2000 flying RV's who has a solution that looks good.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
How much and whats the hp?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT location |
>This theory is backed up
>by nature, it's where the family jewels (heirlooms) are mounted too, think
>how vulnerable they would be mounted on you head.
I know a few people like this already :)
cheers
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI mEncoder |
> >For those of you thinking about building a micro-encoder.......
>
> I was impressed enough with the features of the uEncoder
Cruising:
> what is my true airspeed? Push the switch, there it is. OAT: constant
> readout. Etc.
>
> RMI has a web site: www.rkymtn.com
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Looking at the first year's worth of wear and tear......
I have mine programmed to read True Air Speed all the time. The
analog one is used for indicated. I have turned off the Vno alarm as
it was always going off. At lower altitudes, I was cruising right at
the top of the Green bottom of the Yellow. I agree with all the good
things about the RMI microEncoder. "My Sanity" now has over 264
hours. [250 the first year!] :-)
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Project for Sale |
Unfortunately, I do not have enough time to complete my plane and wish to
sell it.
Details:
RV-6A Slider
Tail Complete
Wings Complete minus wingtips installed
Fuselage kit 85% complete. Sides, bottom, baggage area complete.
Ready for top Skins
and Panel.
Options:
Fiberglass add-on for wingtips to install wingtip lights at 90%
Phlogiston Spar
London Tanks with flop tube in each tank
Barnard Aircraft lights in each wing
All parts Mar-Hyde primed
Cost to date $11,900
Also have Stephen Frey fuselage jig. No longer needed at this stage of kit.
Original cost $1600.
I am located in Chicago area.
Please contact me off-list. Pictures of project can be seen at
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
Don Mack
donmack(at)flash.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
Peter Christensen wrote:
"but what happens if I
leave it on until I'm done with the entire airplane? If I have to take
it
off now, do I need to worry about protecting the aluminum until it's
primed
and painted?"
When I did my wings I used a soldering iron with a flat tip to cut out
the plastic on the rivet lines.
Today my wings are in a portable cradle with the plastic still on them.
I plan on keeping the plastic on till I'm ready to prime and paint. It's
amazing the amount of "hangar rash" that can occur in a garage that has
yet to see a car. I tried pulling away some of the plastic the other day
and it came right off and exposed the shiny non-scratched aluminum
underneath. If I were you I'd leave it on.
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 Fuselage
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glareshield Covering |
>I have arrived at the point of painting the cabin interior. I have
>the procedure
>sorted out as to the primer & paint but have come up short while
>trying to decide
>how to cover/paint the top of the glare shield. I would like to trim
>the nearest
>edge with tubing as per Tony B's plans but hesitate to cover it all
>with vinyl as
>I think that the heat over a period of time would make things look
>trashy. Is is a
>good idea to just paint the area with flat black paint to stop
>reflections?
-
Yes. It doesn't have to be flat black but from my experience a flat
darker color is advisable.
Also
>has anyone tried wrinkle paint on the instrument panel?
-
The blue RV-8 prototype and the yellow RV-8 prototype both had crinkle
paint on the panels (the RV-8A prototype has a black anodized panel which
will hopefully be available to customers some time in the future). My
personal opinion (others may not agree) is that the crinkle paint makes
the airplane look like a 1956 Tripacer (no I don't know if they had
crinkle paint but it is the feeling that is evoked for me).
If it is used
>, then how
>do the labels stick on?
>
This is one of the problems you can have depending on the labels that you
use. Some will work and some wont.
>Thanks for any input in advance. I' m sure there is someone out there
>amongst the
>2000 flying RV's who has a solution that looks good.
>
I personally think a panel painted in any neutral color (black, gray,
light gray, etc. looks good. The one in my RV-6A was even gloss light
gray and I never found it objectionable (day or night).
I feel that the planning and layout of the panel will have a lot more
effect on how good the panel "looks" than what color it is.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing Inboard Ribs |
>
>Location:
>Wing; three most inboard ribs i.e. wing walk area.
>
>Background:
>Plans say that these ribs can be riveted to the spar now and use pop rivets
>or special bucking bars to attach the skins, OR you can cleco the ribs to
>the spar(s) now and then rivet them in one at a time upon completion of the
>wing. I am leaning towards the last option.
>
>Question:
>Request recommendations from those who have reached this stage.
Vince
Don't rivet these ribs in place until you've riveted the nut plates on the
inside of the main spar (top & bottom) for the fuel tank retaining screws.
Once that's done, go ahead & rivet the ribs. IMHO, it's more trouble to
rivet them in when closing the wing than it is to work aroung them to buck
the rivets on the bottom skin. Of course, if you choose to use pop rivets
for these rows rivets, there's no issue...rivet them in before putting on
the top skin.
George Kilishek
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | michael brown <browngalaxy(at)ezol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Avionics Catalogs |
Anyone know of any Free Avionics Catalogs I can order on-line or off??
Someone posted a note on Sioux Rivet guns are they worth the money???
I did not see any replys, I'm just now starting to buy my tools for an RV-6A
and had the same question.
Thanks in advance
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glareshield Covering |
dgm;
The vinyl will work. There are some that are almost a foam, with fabric
backing. the one I used had small perforations in it. I checked with the
manfr. that it was UV protected. After much cutting, fitting and trimming
(first with butcher paper for a pattern), it would lay in place on the glare
shield. I then laced it under the edge molding (as per Tony B.) Worked and
looked fine. It did give and spread a little with the heat, but hadn't
cracked etc in the 3 years I had it. I used the steering wheel trim
(bought at Walmart) to cover the edge molding. It matched the perforated
vinyl to a T.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
-
>
>edge with tubing as per Tony B's plans but hesitate to cover it all with
vinyl as
>I think that the heat over a period of time would make things look trashy.
Is is a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Inboard Ribs |
>you can cleco the ribs to the spar(s) now and then rivet them in one at a
time upon completion of the
wing.<
I found this to be more difficult. It is not easy to get the ribs in and
out of position past the rivets that attach the rear spar doublers. We
riveted the ribs in place and used a long thin bucking bar (approx
1"x1"x12") to get the bottom rivets, no pop rivets were necessary.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
waiting for a warm day to seal the tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
>I have always thought that if I built a side-by-side airplane (ugh) I would
>put the pilot's seat on the right. That way I would make no modification at
>all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
>stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
That's great unless you happen to be left handed like me :-) Flying from the
left seat may be the only break we lefties ever get in life. Of course, I'm
building an -8 so naturally, I'll just have to put the throttle on the right
(gasp- sacrilege) so I can "properly" hold the stick in my left hand :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl Covering |
Fran Malczynski wrote:
> When I did my wings I used a soldering iron with a flat tip to cut out
> the plastic on the rivet lines.
> Today my wings are in a portable cradle with the plastic still on them.
> I plan on keeping the plastic on till I'm ready to prime and paint. It's
> amazing the amount of "hangar rash" that can occur in a garage that has
> yet to see a car. I tried pulling away some of the plastic the other day
> and it came right off and exposed the shiny non-scratched aluminum
> underneath. If I were you I'd leave it on.
This is certainly a valid method to follow.
On the other hand...........the first thing you will do when you get
ready to paint the plane is either rub it down with ScotchBrite or etch
it with an acid!
Keeping the plane shiny while we build it is mostly to impress other
builders who visit our shop...
Sam Buchanan (the contrarian)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing Inboard Ribs |
> Location:
> Wing; three most inboard ribs i.e. wing walk area.
>
> OR you can cleco the ribs to the spar(s) now and then rivet them in one at a
time upon completion of the wing. Request recommendations
from those who have reached this stage.
>
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 Wings
> Moscow, Idaho USA
> Vince, This is the way that I rivited my -4 wings. worked like a
charm.
Carroll Bird, Finishing up gearleg fairings -4. Looking at
months instead of years. Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just built a MicroEncoder |
> Just finishing my uMonitor........stay tuned.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> To All: I built an uEncoder and a uMonitor about two years ago.
Then I had some good ole Buddies that wanted me to build them a unit or
two. Then Cindy called me from RMI and wanted to know if I would build
some for the Company. I have built about ten or twelve units for them.
The only failures that I have had has been part failures that had
nothing to do with my work, and only two of these (1 bad reset chip, and
1 bad IC). My point is that they are not really that hard to build and
they are very good instruments.
Regards Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Listers,
Just a note to remind those installing a tip-up canopy to remember to
seal the "V" strip canopy seal edge to the F668 bulkhead (shown in the
upper right corner of print # 35 in the pre-view plans). Failure to do
so will allow water to run down into your radios and instruments. I used
proseal in this area.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Wilson, Billy [SMTP:billy.wilson(at)lmco.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 5:35 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy
>
>
> I hadn't thought about the 'water on the radios' problem. Fore-warned
> is
> fore-armed.
>
> > From: William G. Knight[SMTP:wknight(at)adelphia.net]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Monday, November 16, 1998 7:44 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
> >
>
> >
> > Not necessarily so. The slider may in fact be easier to build. The
> tip up
> > presents big problems when you open it and it has been raining as
> water
> > will
> > spash all over your radios. This has happened to a local builder
> three
> > times
> > and he has had to replace his radios each time. The tip up also
> looks
> > "hokey" and can't be opened much on ground for cooling. The view
> from
> > inside
> > it, in my judgement, is like some kind of carnival ride. Though some
> > builders think this is neat and "new age," it ain't traditional.
> > From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 2:04 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Jim,
Wouldn't it be nice if somebody made a fiberglass part just for this
area?
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: JNice51355(at)aol.com [SMTP:JNice51355(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 6:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
>
>
> In a message dated 11/17/98 4:04:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> Please explain for builders what you mean excactly! All construction
> details are appreciated.
>
>
>
> >That is what splash guards are for!! >>
> I am not currently at that stage of my project, but have given some
> thought to
> splash guard for avionics and electrical equiptment. They can be
> fashioned
> rather simply out of fiberglass. They can also be made to drain to the
> outside of the aircraft to minimize moisture inside the aircraft. I would
> make a splash guard with upturned lips on the outside. I would put spuds
> onto
> the low spots on these lips to attach flexible tubing to. I would then
> direct
> these tubes to a junction, where one tube could be routed out the bottom
> of
> the fuse. As far as I know, nobody has "plans" for this, as different
> things
> are tried by different people to accomplish the same task.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Avionics Catalogs |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT location |
How about under the fiberglass tip of the vertical stab?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | MicroEncoder- Compass? |
Hi all,
First, thanks to everyone for the info on RMI products. I just looked through
their web site and now have a vision for the panel, but what will I do with all
the extra space :-)
Has anyone tried the remote compass option? I'm wondering how stable it would
be compared to the other heading choices (whiskey, vertical card, DG). It's an
expensive option at $230, but if it's stable enough to use for primary heading
info I could forget about having a DG.
Take your time responding. I still have about a year or more before I need to
really worry about such things :-(
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (tanks- Proseal awaits)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi, I have an electric trim installes at the inboard edge of my aileron. I
have tried to visualize the best way to run the control wires into the wing
without interfering with the movement of the aileron or creating a situation
that will be a problem in the future. No luck. Looking for ideas. Thanks
Ray Grenier, Nashua NH
RV-4 finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
<< That way I would make no modification at
>all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
>stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
That's great unless you happen to be left handed like me :-) Flying from the
left seat may be the only break we lefties ever get in life. Of course, I'm
building an -8 so naturally, I'll just have to put the throttle on the right
(gasp- sacrilege) so I can "properly" hold the stick in my left hand :-) >>
Well, it's all in what one is used to, isn't it.
After learning to fly, as many of us have, in a Cessna 152, I continued my
learning in my first homebuilt, a RANS S-12. (My, but there is a world of
difference between a RANS and a Van's!!!) That overweight ultralight had dual
throttles to allow flight from either seat (side-by-side.) And from the left
seat one could easily use either throttle and have the opposite hand free for
the stick. It didn't take this neophyte aviator long to decide that the left
hand on the stick and right hand on the throttle was far more intuitive after
70 hrs in a Cessna. I have continued that habit to this day in my RV-6A, so
much so that I am not sure I could easily fly the plane with my right hand.
It would amount to teaching the old left hemisphere of the brain some new
tricks for operating the right arm. And that's not even considering what it
would take to learn to tune the radios and operate the GPS left-handed. Who
but a lefty would want to do that?!
Those of us with no fighter background will probably prefer to keep going the
way we learned it. The small number of left sided throttle quadrants being
fitted into the RV sixes would suggest we are comfortable with that. Heck,
tooling along the highway with only one hand on the wheel, I even _drive_
left-handed.
-Bill B
right hand/right eye dominant low-time aviator, loving every minute of RV
time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim wires |
<< I have an electric trim installes at the inboard edge of my aileron. I
have tried to visualize the best way to run the control wires into the wing
without interfering with the movement of the aileron or creating a situation
that will be a problem in the future. No luck. Looking for ideas. >>
Ray-
I ran the MAC cable thru the wing with the rest of the lighting wires and
broke it out along the rib nearest the inboard aileron attach bracket. I
drilled a hole in the center of the rear spar and passed the cable thru. I
bought a small 10 pin IDC type connector with mounting feet and terminated the
wires to it, mounting it on the rear spar with 4-40 screws. A short run of
the same cable from the servo to the mating IDC connector completes the
installation. This allowed for the replacement of the cable run from the
servo to this connector if it fatigued later due to flexure.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroEncoder- Compass? |
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, thanks to everyone for the info on RMI products. I just looked through
> their web site and now have a vision for the panel, but what will I do with all
> the extra space :-)
>
> Has anyone tried the remote compass option? I'm wondering how stable it would
> be compared to the other heading choices (whiskey, vertical card, DG). It's
an
> expensive option at $230, but if it's stable enough to use for primary heading
> info I could forget about having a DG.
Russell,
I have the compass module and will be firing it up in a couple of days.
I will let you know how it works on the bench.
I can't comment on the stability of the compass; Maybe we will get a
report from somebody who is actually flying with the module. I too am
curious as to what "real world" results will be.
I do not intend to use the compass to replace a DG, and doubt that it
would be a good replacement since so much of the value of the DG (at
least in IMC conditions) is probably due to its analogue design.
However, since my panel is starting out as a VFR panel, I intend to use
the RMI compass to replace the wet compass, since I hardly ever refer to
a wet compass anyway.
What happens when the electrons quit flowing and the compass module
dies?? A handheld GPS will be on the panel and it has a battery backup.
What happens when the electrons in the panel AND the GPS quit flowing???
That is when I will pull out the suction cup mounted compass that was
procured in the aviation section of Wal-Mart!
Remember, I am talking about VFR operations....and am assuming
proficiency with using a sectional chart....
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Comfort <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing Inboard Ribs |
Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Wing; three most inboard ribs i.e. wing walk area.
> wing. I am leaning towards the last option.
>
> Question:
> Request recommendations from those who have reached this stage.
Vincent:
Don't be afraid to use the second option. Leave the three ribs out of
the assembly while you rivet skins on starting at the fourth rib. Do
not rivet the skins to the spar inboard of rib number three. When
ready, pop the third rib into place and rivet it and the skin/spar
rivets down to the second rib and repeat the process. The ribs will pop
in without much difficulty and no contortions are required to buck all
the rivets. You can use your bucking bar with the best sweet spot and
you can see what you are doing.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Charles Young - you posted a request for "honest opinion" re LRI - glad to
give you details, but want your off-net e-mail address...will be around all
day today/John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Hi All,
Thought I would introduce myself to the list. I'm just getting started
on an RV-6 empennage.
Name: Doug Hormann
Age: 37
Home: Hillsboro, OR
EAA: Chapter 105
Van's Homewing bldrs grp.
Building: RV-6
I'm currently flying an Aeronca L-3, but decided that being able to
actually go somewhere would be nice. Besides, my wife doesn't cotton to
the idea of flying 56 year old airplanes. Anyway, this is a great list
and I'm looking forward to the hints and suggestions from all of you.
Last night I drilled one skin to the skeleton of my horizontal
stabilizer. Hopefully, I'll make all my mistakes at this early stage
before I get into anything really expensive. :) In any case, I'm having
a great time!
Regards,
Doug Hormann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Listers:
I'm about to splurge for an RMI Microencoder. With all the recent positive
reviews, and since RMI starts giving quantity discounts at 5 units, anyone
interested in a quantity buy?
I'd jump in on the LRI volume purchase too, but I still have such a bad
taste in my mouth about their pre-sales "support" (see archives), I just
can't give that kind of company my hard earned money. Apparently, they took
up my advice to treat potential customers in a respectful manner; and I wish
those RV'ers using the LRI, and the company, success.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
>
>It didn't take this neophyte aviator long to decide that the left
>hand on the stick and right hand on the throttle was far more intuitive after
>70 hrs in a Cessna. I have continued that habit to this day in my RV-6A, so
>much so that I am not sure I could easily fly the plane with my right hand.
>It would amount to teaching the old left hemisphere of the brain some new
>tricks for operating the right arm. And that's not even considering what it
>would take to learn to tune the radios and operate the GPS left-handed. Who
>but a lefty would want to do that?!
Oh, toughen up Rambo. :^)
All kidding aside, you can pretty easily adapt to either way. I have both
the RV-4 and a Piper Clipper. In the RV-4 it is throttle left and stick
right. In the Clipper it is stick left and throttle right. I don't even
notice the difference anymore. I find sitting on the right side of the
airplane to be more of a factor than which hand holds the controls.
Remember, you are a human. You can retrain your brain to adapt to changes
in your environment. This prevents you from becoming extinct. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroEncoder- Compass? |
>Has anyone tried the remote compass option? I'm wondering how stable it
would
>be compared to the other heading choices (whiskey, vertical card, DG).
It's an
>expensive option at $230, but if it's stable enough to use for primary
heading
>info I could forget about having a DG.
All magnetic compasses, regardless of how they work, suffer from dip error,
i.e. except at the magnetic equator, the magnetic lines of force are not
parallel to the ground. This means that when the aircraft is in
accelerated flight, i.e. accelerating or turning, it is not going to give
you correct heading info unless it is gyrostabilized or gyrocorrected. If
you are only going to fly VFR and plan to use a GPS with a good update
rate, it may not matter.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tillman, James A." <tillman.james.a(at)fulton.k12.ga.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
howdy, i'd be interested in a kit if the price is right.
jim tillman
From: Robert Acker <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 12:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone?
>
>Listers:
>
>I'm about to splurge for an RMI Microencoder. With all the recent positive
>reviews, and since RMI starts giving quantity discounts at 5 units, anyone
>interested in a quantity buy?
>
>I'd jump in on the LRI volume purchase too, but I still have such a bad
>taste in my mouth about their pre-sales "support" (see archives), I just
>can't give that kind of company my hard earned money. Apparently, they
took
>up my advice to treat potential customers in a respectful manner; and I
wish
>those RV'ers using the LRI, and the company, success.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L.R. BENTLY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: prop hub holes |
Good day listers . Can anyone out there tell me if and how to enlarge the
mounting holes on the prop. hub from I think 3/8" to 7/16" , many thanks
.South Africa RV6 wings .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
There's been quite a response to my post this morning concerning the RMI
discount. Instead of responding to each of you individually, I hope Matt
doesn't mind that I contact all those interested via the list.
I've contacted RMI to get their discount schedule, and if it will apply to
uEncoder's and uMonitor's seperately or mixed (I also asked about the
available options). As soon as I get the info, I'll post to the list so we
can get the fence sitters interested .
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Richards" <samav8(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop hub holes |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998
>Received: from [207.171.250.179] by hotmail.com (1.0) with SMTP id
MHotMail30888722143883506532499348415454720850; Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998
>From: "L.R. BENTLY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: prop hub holes
>Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:53:24 +0200
>X-Priority: 3
>Message-ID: <19981118195617.AAA29110(at)jackal.intekom.co.za@default>
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Good day listers . Can anyone out there tell me if and how to enlarge
the
>mounting holes on the prop. hub from I think 3/8" to 7/16" , many
thanks
>.South Africa RV6 wings .
> Hello LLoyd, I have never had to to the above operation, so this is
just a suggestion. Obviously hole positioning in this application is
critical. It is definitely not a job for a home workshop. The holes
could be bored with a 7/16" cutter with a 3/8" guide - a similar
arrangement to the way our microstop countersinks are guided. It
would be best set up on a mill with a 3-jawed chuck mounted on a
2-dimensional cross slide for accurate positioning.
I would be tempted to get a quote from your local Lycoming workshop,
considering the hassles involved.
Best regards, Sam Richards, RV-6 Newcastle AUS
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Robert Acker wrote:
>
> There's been quite a response to my post this morning concerning the RMI
> discount. Instead of responding to each of you individually, I hope Matt
> doesn't mind that I contact all those interested via the list.
>
> I've contacted RMI to get their discount schedule, and if it will apply to
> uEncoder's and uMonitor's seperately or mixed (I also asked about the
> available options). As soon as I get the info, I'll post to the list so we
> can get the fence sitters interested .
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
Rob, how quick do you think you will have a price. I'm about to order a Grand
Rapids engine monitoring system for $700 including all the following probes.
2 x EGT
2 x CHT
1 x Carb Temp
Oil pressure
Oil temperature
Manifold pressure
RPM
Fuel pressure
Voltage
Hour Meter
Trip Meter
I think the RMI only does one EGT and CHT however a low price may make it more
attractive.
Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Please count me in for both!
From: Robert Acker <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone?
There's been quite a response to my post this morning concerning the RMI
discount. Instead of responding to each of you individually, I hope Matt
doesn't mind that I contact all those interested via the list.
I've contacted RMI to get their discount schedule, and if it will apply to
uEncoder's and uMonitor's seperately or mixed (I also asked about the
available options). As soon as I get the info, I'll post to the list so we
can get the fence sitters interested .
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | New local RV related list: VAFSoCal(at)azw.com |
Hi everyone, especially RVators in Southern California!
I have set up a new email list server for those of us
located in the SoCal geographic area:
VAFSoCal(at)azw.com
You may subscribe to this list by sending an email to:
VAFSoCal-request(at)azw.com WITH "subscribe" in the
BODY of the message.
I hope the list will be used for coordinating
fly-outs, finding specialty tools to borrow from
other builders in the SoCal area, sharing shipping
the RV-List is used on a national scale.
I plan on registering a domain name in the near
future for the VAFSoCal list, I'll be sure to let
everyone know when that happens (though
VAFSoCal(at)azw.com will still work).
Regards;
Don Gates
Lancaster, CA
RV-6(?) Emp HS Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
>Rob, how quick do you think you will have a price. I'm about to order a
Grand
>Rapids engine monitoring system for $700 including all the following
probes.
>
>2 x EGT
>2 x CHT
>1 x Carb Temp
>Oil pressure
>Oil temperature
>Manifold pressure
>RPM
>Fuel pressure
>Voltage
>Hour Meter
>Trip Meter
>
>I think the RMI only does one EGT and CHT however a low price may make it
more
>attractive.
>
>Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
Peter,
As soon as I get the an answer from RMI, I'll post a message.
Regarding the EIS, I did a "bang for the $$$" analysis of all the electronic
engine monitors, the best I found in the configuration I wanted was the
Allegro M816. The AV-8/10 came close functionality/cost wise, but was
bigger (3 1/8" hole), and my wife wanted her voice as the only female voice
in the cockpit .
At the time I bought the Allegro, it was about $100 more than the EIS. In
addition to the EIS features, it also included: (4) cylinder EGT/CHT
scanning, shock cooling alert, lean-to-peak mode, ammeter, OAT, and a clock.
Disadvantages: It lacked a tach (available seperately), and since the
Allegro occupies a single 2.25" hole, it can't show multiple parameters all
at once like the larger EIS can.
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
bramsec wrote:
> I think the RMI only does one EGT and CHT however a low price may make it more
> attractive.
>
> Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
>
>
Peter
The monitor will read all 4 EGT's and CHT's you just have to wire it
through a multiplex switch. Ron at RMI will give you the details.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Redfield <tomredfield(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | FREE RV6/6A Fuselage Jig Available |
Denver Area Listers
My fuselage is now right side up. This makes available the fuselage jig
that I got from Warren Gretz who obtained it from Mike Ryer who...built
it...I think
Contact me off list. That Is OFF LIST! at
tomredfield(at)compuserve.com
or call 303 922-6597
Tom Redfield
Southwest Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Hi Robert,
I am interested in buying a uEncoder.
Sylvain Duford
14621 NE 3rd Street, Unit 3
Bellevue, WA 98007
(425) 260-1132
From: "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Subject: RV-List: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone?
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 09:54:35 -0800
Listers:
I'm about to splurge for an RMI Microencoder. With all the recent
positive
reviews, and since RMI starts giving quantity discounts at 5 units,
anyone
interested in a quantity buy?
I'd jump in on the LRI volume purchase too, but I still have such a bad
taste in my mouth about their pre-sales "support" (see archives), I just
can't give that kind of company my hard earned money. Apparently, they
took
up my advice to treat potential customers in a respectful manner; and I
wish
those RV'ers using the LRI, and the company, success.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
Taxi'ing at nite in a taildragger can be difficult since you cannot see
directly over the nose on the airplane. If the taxiway had white lines
on the sides like most modern roads, it would be so much easier.
Local airport board says it is illegal to paint them.
Can anyone out there locate a FAR that would make that illegal?
Thanks in advance.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
In Australia I am pretty sure the regs say in the event of there being two
pilots on board the one in the left seat will be the pilot in charge for
any legal dispute. Perhaps you need to check your regs before making the
right seat the "pilot seat" Cheers, Brian
>
> I have always thought that if I built a side-by-side airplane (ugh) I
would
> put the pilot's seat on the right. That way I would make no modification
at
> all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
> stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
> 'Course the passenger would have to put up with backward controls, but if
he
> didn't like it, he could fly with somebody else ;^)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taxiway lines |
John,
If memory serves me you will find the requirements for runway and
taxiway markings in the AIM ( Aerounatical Information Manual).
Mark
Ordering tail 6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | elevator spar question, rv8 |
Hi folks
Ran into a small problem the other nite with my elevators.
I installed the spar in the skin with the tip ribs pre-installed and
found out that the spar is about 3/16 longer than what was written on
the drawings. This means that the tip rib is about 3/16 further out and
is not flush on the inside with the counterweight skin, OOPS.
This also meant that the rivets on the inside tip rib are closer to the
edge, but still well within limits. The rivets in the outer tip rib are
rather close to the rib web now.
Anybody else run into my dimensional problem. It seems that i would have
to seriously re-bend the flange on the end of the spar to hold the end
rib in the right place.
I also saw that there are really 4 rivets holding the 609 rib in place
on the drawing.
I thought it was dirt on the drawing as I could also see the 6 rivets
holding the elevator horn on to the front of the spar. Ah well, I will
now have to rely on the 12 rivets which hold the elevator horn in place
to help those 2 rivets which hold the 609 in place.
Any commends are welcome here
Thanks
Gert
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
In the US the seat position does not make a difference.
From: Brian Holman <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au>
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left hand throttle quaudrant
>
>In Australia I am pretty sure the regs say in the event of there being two
>pilots on board the one in the left seat will be the pilot in charge for
>any legal dispute. Perhaps you need to check your regs before making the
>right seat the "pilot seat" Cheers, Brian
>
>>
>> I have always thought that if I built a side-by-side airplane (ugh) I
>would
>> put the pilot's seat on the right. That way I would make no modification
>at
>> all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
>> stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
>> 'Course the passenger would have to put up with backward controls, but if
>he
>> didn't like it, he could fly with somebody else ;^)
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New List Member |
*********SNIP************
Doug Hormann wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Thought I would introduce myself to the list. I'm just getting started
> on an RV-6 empennage.
>
>
Hi Doug,
Welcome to the list. Enjoy building do something everyday if you can.
Sometimes the plans can lead you into a problem, so look at whatever
structure you are building and determine if the hole you're going to
drill or the rivet you are going to use is actually correct. Sometimes
a little deviation from the plans in a dimension or rivet size is needed
to get proper specs.
Good luck,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond, ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Listers,
The following is an E-Mail I received from Jim Huntington (One of the
owners of LRI) answering my questions to him after I read Rob Ackers post
(RMI-Discount) referring to problems he had with this company. I also
checked the archives as Rob suggested to see what he was referring too. I
have spoken to the owners of LRI and I have no second thoughts about
representing this offer here to the list. (It IS a good value!) I hope this
post will allay any fears anyone might have had about LRI as a company and
possibly answer any questions you might have had. Lastly, I would like to
invite Rob to join us in this deal if he would speak to John Fasching and
possibly other users of this instrument and get assurances to his
satisfaction that it does what it say's it will do. And I would like to
thank Rob for his good wishes that we be satisfied with our purchase and
for the success of the company. Please read below.
Thanks, Al
>Return-Path:
>X-Sender: jimrhunt(at)pop.ncal.verio.com
>Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 01:44:03 -0800
>To: Al Mojzisik
>From: James R Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com>
>Subject: LRI
>
>Al,
>
>A negative posting appeared today concerning us here at the Lift Reserve
>Indicator Company. Our reputation is extremely important to us and I would
>like to make the following comments:
>
>Speaking from personal experience, and I am sure that everyone has shared
>this at one time or another, things break down in communication between
>people. Intent can be misunderstood and misconstrued. Oddly enough, e-mail
>which has speeded up and facilitated communication for all of us, I have
>found, can also lead to misunderstanding. In my opinion it is exactly
>because of its speed and because of its lack of inflection that certain
>kinds of misunderstandings can occur.
>
>I believe something like this happened a few months ago, much to my regret,
>with Robert Acker, an RV pilot who communicated with us via e-mail from our
>web site (www.liftreserve.com).
>
>As I remember it, at issue was our lack of a demo video to supply to
>potential customers. We had same, but it was not even close to being
>satisfactory. It was amateurish and nothing that we would send to anyone.
>We have long wanted to be able to produce such a video, because (we agree
>with Robert) it would have the benefit of dramatically demonstrating the
>real value and importance of the Lift Reserve Indicator. The estimates
>that we have received for this kind of production have run to about
>$20,000. Quite frankly, with everything else we are engaged with at this
>time, we couldn't afford to do this however much we might wish to.
>
>I corresponded with Robert and had hoped that our appologies were
>suffficent. With Robert's permission, I am inserting a portion of his last
>e-mail to me:
>
>Jim,
>
>You are right about the e-mail miscommunication. I also apologize, we
>talked pleasantly at length at Osh.
>
>In no way did I mean to berate you with the video issue, I'm simply a
>person trying to see an LRI equipped aircraft rotate, approach, and land at
>minimum safe speeds and the LRI needle showing what is is supposed to...and
>at different density altitudes, weights, and flap settings. That to me
>means a ride or video of a ride.
>
>I'm still very interested if something like that can be arranged.
>
>Regards,
>
>Rob Acker
>
>The LRI, despite communication mishaps, remains in our opinion, and in the
>opinion of many, many others as well, a very important general aviation
>instrument. I invite Robert, and everyone else who corresponds through
>this line, to accept the RV Special that we are offering through AL.
>
>Although we cannot arrange a demostration ride as suggested by Robert, we
>can certain supply a list of references of pilots flying with the LRI who
>can be reached either through e-mail or by telephone.
>
>Thanks for letting me respond and happy flying to all,
>
>Jim Huntington
>jimrhunt(at)wco.com
>www.liftreserve.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Your Name" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Spar Rivet Lengths |
Listers,
In preparation for setting the 3/16 rivets in my spars for the RV-6, I did a
diligent search through the archives for all relevant info on riveting
methods, and related folklore. A lot of great info was found and I urge you
all to give the search engine a try. It is fast, simple and powerful.
One key item that was discussed was the importance of maintaining exactly
1.5d length on the unset rivet length. While one or two brave souls claimed
to have set un-cut AN470AD6-25's in the thickest part of the spar, these
rivets are about 1/16 too long and should probably cut. (I don't want to
have to search the archives for info on drilling out spar rivets!) Other
rivets also need to be cut and that is the reason for my post.
To establish exactly what is needed, rivet cutting wise, I have created a
chart which shows exactly what quantity of rivets cut to what length are
required for the -6 spars. I also have this info referenced to a list of
hole numbers in the spar noting the length rivet for each hole. Has anyone
published this info before? If so, let me know other wise I'll post the info
tomorrow around this time.
Spar rivets this weekend!
Dave Lundquist
RV-6 wings
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 web page address change |
The address to my RV-8 web page has changed. If you have a link to it, you
may wish to edit your page. The new address is
http://members.aol.com/lousmith/page/rv.html>
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxiway lines |
John Kitz wrote:
>
> Hello Listers;
> Taxi'ing at nite in a taildragger can be difficult since you cannot see
> directly over the nose on the airplane. If the taxiway had white lines
> on the sides like most modern roads, it would be so much easier.
> Local airport board says it is illegal to paint them.
> Can anyone out there locate a FAR that would make that illegal?
> Thanks in advance.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
Hello John,
White lines at the edge of a taxiway may be illegal, but I doubt it. At Santa
Monica airport, where I fly, the South taxiway is defined by broad yellow lines
on
each side with a narrower yellow line down the center. At least that gives you
a
precedent. It sounds to me like you're getting the idiot treatment.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throttle quaudrant |
My RV6 was also setup for right seat PIC position.
Sincerely,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
(650) 506-2740
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left hand throttle quaudrant
In the US the seat position does not make a difference.
From: Brian Holman <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au>
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left hand throttle quaudrant
>
>In Australia I am pretty sure the regs say in the event of there being two
>pilots on board the one in the left seat will be the pilot in charge for
>any legal dispute. Perhaps you need to check your regs before making the
>right seat the "pilot seat" Cheers, Brian
>
>>
>> I have always thought that if I built a side-by-side airplane (ugh) I
>would
>> put the pilot's seat on the right. That way I would make no modification
>at
>> all to the standard center throttle arrangement, but could still hold the
>> stick properly in my right hand and the throttle properly in my left.
>> 'Course the passenger would have to put up with backward controls, but if
>he
>> didn't like it, he could fly with somebody else ;^)
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Rivet Lengths |
>
>
> One key item that was discussed was the importance of maintaining exactly
> 1.5d length on the unset rivet length. While one or two brave souls claimed
> to have set un-cut AN470AD6-25's in the thickest part of the spar, these
> rivets are about 1/16 too long and should probably cut. (I don't want to
> have to search the archives for info on drilling out spar rivets!) Other
> rivets also need to be cut and that is the reason for my post.
>
Maintaining the 1.5d length on the unset rivet is most important on the shorter
length
rivets near the tip. If these rivets are just a little long and the hole a little
big,
the rivet will tip while riveting. On the other hand, the -25's near the root need
to
be a little longer (1/32 to 1/16). Since there is a little slop in the hole, the
rivet
must first fill this by expanding and then the shop head is formed. So, if the
rivet
is just exactly the correct 1.5d and the hole is just a little to sloppy, the shop
head will be to small in diameter and if of the proper diameter, to short.
I found that the long rivets at the root end of the spar were much easier to drive
and
get perfect results than the shorter ones near the tip.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 - engine plumbing stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Rivet Lengths |
> One key item that was discussed was the importance of maintaining exactly
> 1.5d length on the unset rivet length. While one or two brave souls claimed
> to have set un-cut AN470AD6-25's in the thickest part of the spar, these
> rivets are about 1/16 too long and should probably cut.
No! I made that mistake. If you cut the long rivets down, then the shop
heads will be too small. I think the length (depth?) of the hole means
that there's more volume for the rivet to expand into. IIRC, some of the
shorter rivets do need cutting down.
> (I don't want to
> have to search the archives for info on drilling out spar rivets!)
Been there, done that.
For my experiences and photos, check out "The Bunny's Guide to RV
<http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh/bunny.htm> (back online after
IHUG lost 20GB to a hacker a couple of days ago). Stuff specific to the
spars can be found at <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2a.htm>
Frank.
(Closing 2nd wing, building firewall)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Rob,
I've been planning to get both the Rocky Mountain microEncoder and the
MicroMonitor so I'm ready to buy both now if we can get a discount. Count me
in for sure.
Dale Wotring
Ridgefield, WA
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com> |
| Subject: | elevator spar question, rv8 |
Gert,
Do all the holes in the spar and the skin line up? If so, you should move
the ribs so that they are flush with the edge of the skin. You should have
space to move the rib in and drill two more holes for rivets to hold the rib
on the spar. I ran down and checked my elevators and I have "maybe" a 64th
overhang on one side of the left elevator but the ribs are flush with the
skin because I ignored the centerline I had drawn on the ribs and just fit
them flush with the skin before drilling.
I did have a problem with one of my flap spars in that the holes in the
skin and the holes in the spar didn't match up exactly and I had to do some
redrilling. I'm glad I did my cleco "thing" before I started any riveting or
I would have really been in trouble on that one.
Now you know why you hear most of us talking about how many clecos we use.
I try to put together the whole assembly with clecos before driving one
rivet. Helps you visualize what needs to be done and how.
Regards,
Bob
RV8#423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Taxiway lines |
I can't speak for the US but under Aus rules you can install markers so long as
they are blue lights (white is reserved for runway markings)(though blue
reflectors (similar the white ones glued on roads and freeways) would probably
also be legal (and are available)), the alternate is a string of yellow
fiberglass cones.
Hello Listers;
Taxi'ing at nite in a taildragger can be difficult since you cannot see
directly over the nose on the airplane. If the taxiway had white lines
on the sides like most modern roads, it would be so much easier.
Local airport board says it is illegal to paint them.
Can anyone out there locate a FAR that would make that illegal?
Thanks in advance.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Godzilla Engine Monitor |
To put this in perspective, I have just finished building a uMonitor
which will be going in my RV6.
Today, however, I saw something else.
It's called VFE, which stands for Virtual Flight Engineer. It is
similar in size to the uMonitor, perhaps slightly larger, with a
single line LCD display surrounded by 20 keys on a membrane panel.
Basically it is monitor / annunciator with integral intercom, ASI,
VSI, clock, alarms, fuel flow meter, recorded check lists and "G"
meter, using voice annunciation and with the following features:-
Ninety inputs
32 thermocouple inputs CHT, EGT, oil, etc
16 voltage inputs Battery, oil pressure, fuel level, flap position
24 switch inputs Stall, landing gear, canopy secure,etc
8 pulse inputs Fuel flow
4 frequency inputs Tachometer
5 pressure sensors Altitude, IAS, manifold, vacuum etc
1 pulse accumulator input Fuel remaining
1 serial port GPS connection, data logging etc
Human voiced alarms
Human voiced cockpit checks
Human voiced approach speed commentary
Clock calendar with programmable alarms
Integral "G" meter +/- 12.7 G
Integral multi place intercom with squelch
Input for cell phone
Backlit 16 char display
Failsafe backup battery
Optional fuel burn and fuel remaining
Conforms to DO-160D
CASA approval pending (not as primary instrument)
The display only shows one parameter at a time, however a cheap option
is any number of LCD display modules daisy chained from the main
unit, displaying your selected parameters permanently.
The prototype was on display at a GA tradeshow in Sydney today.
Projected production ship is February. Price is projected as $A2500,
which translates to $US1600 at today's calamitous exchange rate.
For details contact
Avionic Technologies
PO Box 3147
Kirrawee Delivery Centre
NSW 2232 Australia
Phone +61 2 9545 0266
Fax +61 2 9545 0277
email dart(at)acay.com.au
They have an informative colour brochure from which the above is
copied E&OE.
Disclaimer - I am not associated with these guys. I met them for the
first time today.
Gadget heads, enjoy!
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FWIW: #2000 RV |
In a message dated 11/17/98 4:37:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kerrjb(at)aol.com
writes:
<< November 13, 1998 the counter rolled over to 2000 as the 2000th RV
completed was reported to Van's Aircraft. >> >>
Friday the 13th no less !!
Regards, Merle
RV-4 - 4.3Chevy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | heenalu(at)hula.net |
Hello,
Anybody flying or building RV's in Hawaii? If so, I'd like to get
together with you!
Mahalo
Rod Watson
heenalu(at)hula.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxiway lines |
John Kitz wrote:
>
> If the taxiway had white lines
> on the sides like most modern roads, it would be so much easier.
> Local airport board says it is illegal to paint them.
> Can anyone out there locate a FAR that would make that illegal?
>
John: 1998 AIM figure 2-3-9 shows taxiway edge markings. They
are yellow, not white. Hope this helps.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John H Lee" <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
Count me in on both RMI instruments.
John Lee
Finished canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl Covering |
I had read before the tip about using a pencil-type soldering iron to
remove a thin strip of vinyl along the rivet holes in order to leave the
rest. I tried that last night and it worked wonderfully. You only need to
score the vinyl by moving the tip very quickly over the vinyl so that you
don't melt the vinyl or scratch the aluminum. This was the best tip I have
received so far. Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New List Member |
This is good advice (i.e., being careful about following the plans to the
letter). The very first rivet your are told to install is when riveting
together the 411 (I think) elevator bracket assembly. Then plans call for
-5 rivets when clearly -6's are needed. I wound up drilling out all six
rivets and re-doing it. The same is true about hole location. Think
carefully before drilling any non-prepunched hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl Covering |
Peter: Air brush artists have use this technique for years to form designs
when masking with a product called friskit...Great stuff when you want to
paint a design...sort of a transparent masking material although some is only
translucent...There is a gadjet called Air Nouveau Pro Stencil Burner...even a
cordless one...See you local art & craft store for this stuff...BTW the art
store will probably have sign paint in small containers that makes great
touch-up for small dings...Two name off hand are Createx Auto Air and One
Shot....Many colors...Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar question, rv8 |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>I installed the spar in the skin with the tip ribs pre-installed and
>found out that the spar is about 3/16 longer than what was written on
>the drawings. This means that the tip rib is about 3/16 further out and
>is not flush on the inside with the counterweight skin, OOPS.
You _will_ have to adjust the lengths of various parts during construction.
A little bending of the tip flange can either increase or decrease the length,
and it's not a major operation. Think of those end flanges as adjustable
tabs, bend to fit (with everything else clecoed on so you can really get
a feel for what should be fitting where and how).
This is part of your 51%!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6, wing kit to be delivered this afternoon. Yippee!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thoule(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Dear listers,
I drilled all my rudder stiffeners the other day and all worked out well,
however I was going over the plans and noticed that I did the spacing at 1
1/4" rather than 1 1/2" I think I read the rivet spacing for the ribs rather
than the stiffeners, even though the spacing instructions are right in the
middle of the plans! I don't think this should make any difference. Can
anyone confirm this or tell me I have to do it over again......
Thanks in advance
Tim Houle
Working on the rudder
RV6
Three Hills, Alberta
***************************
Tim Houle
email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Skirt |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
In fitting my canopy skirt (this is epoxy on the 8), I found it to be
difficult to get a good fit. For one thing, there were no scribe lines to
follow on my skirt, which the manual says there is. Tom at Vans said to'
look closer, they are on there', I used a magnifying glass, and every now
and then near the edge you can see a slight mark, but nowhere near
something you could follow. So those of you with finish kits, check your
canopy skirts for the scribe lines, it would make it alot easier if you
had it. I wound up having to cut the skirt in half at the back where it
wraps around. I had contacted 3 other builders with flying RV-8's, they
all had to cut theirs in half also, and then re-epoxy together. This also
makes the piece much easier to handle, than to have this huge floppy 'U'
shaped thing. I have the finish kit video from George, but it just
shows it going on with no problems, so I guess perhaps it is possible.
But then doesnt everything work perfect for George? Anyway, for those of
you up and coming, anticipate that this is a problem. One RV-8 builder
said he was not so sure this skirt was any easier than the metal skirt on
his RV-4!
Perhaps Scott McDaniels can help us on this one.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
I am aware of a local startup business which can produce thin vinyl stick on
art. I know this is a common method and was going to investigate price. Was
considering getting my N-number from them if the price is right.
I know they can do letters/numbers in 50 standard fonts but can also do
custom stuff. I understand they can also do any art in a very wide variety
of colors (was thinking nose art or logos). Their primary products are
flexible banners and logos so I know they can do it and this stuff is tough.
If anyone else out there is interested, respond to me and I'll let you know
what I find out.
MikeWilson
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com
503-397-6207
From: A20driver(at)aol.com [mailto:A20driver(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vinyl Covering
Peter: Air brush artists have use this technique for years to form designs
when masking with a product called friskit...Great stuff when you want to
paint a design...sort of a transparent masking material although some is
only
translucent...There is a gadjet called Air Nouveau Pro Stencil Burner...even
a
cordless one...See you local art & craft store for this stuff...BTW the art
store will probably have sign paint in small containers that makes great
touch-up for small dings...Two name off hand are Createx Auto Air and One
Shot....Many colors...Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet spacing |
Not a problem. Just a little extra weight. You can go *closer* than
what the plans call out, but never *larger*.
Enjoy the process.
Michael Pilla
Tim Houle wrote:
>
>
> Dear listers,
>
> I drilled all my rudder stiffeners the other day and all worked out well,
> however I was going over the plans and noticed that I did the spacing at 1
> 1/4" rather than 1 1/2" I think I read the rivet spacing for the ribs rather
> than the stiffeners, even though the spacing instructions are right in the
> middle of the plans! I don't think this should make any difference. Can
> anyone confirm this or tell me I have to do it over again......
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Tim Houle
> Working on the rudder
> RV6
> Three Hills, Alberta
>
> ***************************
>
> Tim Houle
>
> email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
>
> ***************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
count me in for a MicroMonitor...I wish I would have known, I just bought my
encoder!
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop hub holes |
Believe you can just change the bushings in the crank flange.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
Al,
Thanks for taking the time to check the archives, and show initiative
towards a resolution! To any listers not wanting to read further about
LRI's ad nauseum, press delete now, as my reply only adds in length to Al's
input.
>>The following is an E-Mail I received from Jim Huntington (One of the
>>owners of LRI) answering my questions to him after I read Rob Ackers post
>>(RMI-Discount) referring to problems he had with this company. I also
>>checked the archives as Rob suggested to see what he was referring too. I
>>have spoken to the owners of LRI and I have no second thoughts about
>>representing this offer here to the list. (It IS a good value!) I hope
this
>>post will allay any fears anyone might have had about LRI as a company and
>>possibly answer any questions you might have had.
To repost message #42734 from the rv-list archives:
****************************************************************************
********
From: "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net>
Subject: Re: LRI
Date: Aug 28, 1998
Someone asked about the LRI earlier:
I met these folks at Osh. Seemed nice enough, but when pressed on how to
explain its operation all they said was there's a seaplane on the field
here, he say's it works real good.
I am all for some type of AOA/reserve lift device. So, still interested I
sent them e-mail asking for some basic information:
1) Any documentation they had beyond what was on the web site (i.e. article
reprints, technical analysis, brochures, etc.).
2) Any inflight videos showing the device at work.
3) References of satisfied users.
4) Possibility of a demo flight since they are somewhat local to me.
What I got back was (not exact quotes mind 'ya):
1) Nope, we haven't kept any of this info, but we will try to dig some up.
But, we have a feeling that even with this info, you would not be convinced
and buy one like you should, because it plain works like we say it does.
That should be good enough.
2) Nope, we tried taping one, didn't show anything. If that's not good
enough for you, would you mind coming here and taping a professional
version that might satisfy you?
3) One partner in the outfit said NO WAY, the other said sure and gave me
some (two partners giving completely different answers)
4) No reply.
The device may indeed be good, but the people behind it are not. I chose
to stay away from LRI, but am intrigued enough that I may start
experimenting with a like device on my own.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
****************************************************************************
********
Though I agree with Jim in that "Oddly enough, e-mail which has speeded up
and facilitated communication for all of us, I have found, can also lead to
misunderstanding.", I won't simply accept is as a cover for the very
black&white statements made by LRI above.
>>>Return-Path:
>>>X-Sender: jimrhunt(at)pop.ncal.verio.com
>>>Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 01:44:03 -0800
>>>To: Al Mojzisik
>>>From: James R Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com>
>>>Subject: LRI
>>>
>>>As I remember it, at issue was our lack of a demo video to supply to
>>>potential customers. We had same, but it was not even close to being
>>>satisfactory. It was amateurish and nothing that we would send to
anyone.
Actually, the video was of the least relevance, until it was rather
pointedly suggested by Jim that I come out and make a professional one for
them for less than $20K. I mentioned that a competitor was able to make a
simple, "amatuerish" video which readily showed the device worked, and that
their amatuerish sample would be just fine. No comment on that one from
LRI.
The thing that most concerned me was the readily apparent lack of
communcation between the two partners, and that they could not offer not
even the simplest documentation supporting the device (...not even a
brochure...c'mon guys...and then telling a potential customer that even if
we did/could we DON'T THINK YOU WOULD BUY ONE). Wonderful sales technique.
Anyhow, to keep this from getting even longer, I *AM* still interested. The
RV-list discount has brought the price down to a level where it would cost
me more to experiment on my own, and if it works as advertised its *exactly*
the type of device I want on board.
I have already sent off for John's offer to send us the patent (I wonder why
LRI couldn't provide this when I first asked for documentation?), and if Jim
can e-mail me the references to customers again I would appreciate it (lost
them when my hard drive crashed).
Again, thanks Al for your efforts in trying to make this right.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Battery location with C/S prop? |
'Listers,
I checked the archives with little success. Those of you who have an RV-4
with O-360 and constant speed prop, where did you mount the battery and how?
How did your CG come out?
Rusty Gossard, I think you mounted yours in the baggage compartment. Please
send me details.
Thanks,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST finishing up baffle details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RMI quantity discounts? |
Listers:
Here's the discount schedule from RMI for the uEncoder and uMonitor. So
far, there have been inquiries for (5) uMonitors, (5) uEncoders, and (5)
"maybe if the price is right's".
I was leaning towards the uEncoder (especially after seeing G. Sobek's in
action), but the discount of $44 is not a tiebreaker for me (especially
since there's no discounts on the compass option). I already have a true
airspeed indicator, and am wondering if a Davtron M655 to give pressure
alt/density alt/oat/etc along with a standard encoder for half the cost
might be a better option.
Anyways, since i started it and if you guys are serious, I can arrange the
deal with RMI. Send me an e-mail with your "order", and I will forward it
to Ron and identify it as part of the quantity discount rv-list buy. I'm
hoping he'll take it from there.
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>Rob,
>
>Our discount at 5 units each (all kits or all assembled; & sorry, no mix
>and match) is 5%. I know it's not a huge discount, but we have our
>products priced for direct sales with no dealer discount built-in. Good
>luck!
>
>Regards,
>
>Ron Mowrer
>
>
> /^\
> /\/ \ Rocky Mountain Instrument
> / RMI \ http://rkymtn.com
> (307) 864-9300 (vox/fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet spacing |
Tim:
No problem with that spacing. I would only be concerned if you had spaced
them out more than the 1 1/2 inches that the plans called for.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
wings
Peshtigo, WI
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 10:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: rivet spacing
>
>
>Dear listers,
>
>I drilled all my rudder stiffeners the other day and all worked out well,
>however I was going over the plans and noticed that I did the spacing at 1
>1/4" rather than 1 1/2" I think I read the rivet spacing for the ribs
rather
>than the stiffeners, even though the spacing instructions are right in the
>middle of the plans! I don't think this should make any difference. Can
>anyone confirm this or tell me I have to do it over again......
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Tim Houle
>Working on the rudder
>RV6
>Three Hills, Alberta
>
>***************************
>
>Tim Houle
>
>email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
>
>***************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMI MicroEncoder - discount buy anyone? |
Please tell us again the prices. Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount |
Listers:
I just spoke with Ron Mowrer at RMI. Here are his terms:
Five orders minimum to qualify for 5% discount (that's 5 *kit* orders or 5
*assembled unit* orders). Also, no mixing of uEncoders or uMonitors, so
need 5 minimum of each to place order for either unit. Strictly one lump
payment and one shipment only.
So, if you are still interested, I offer the following suggestion for
placing our order (other suggestions/ideas welcomed):
1) Tell your non-RV-list friends about this if they want in, you deal and
collect from them directly.
2) Send me e-mail specifying unit type(s), quantity ea., kit or assembled.
I don't want to do any of the options/accessories since there is no discount
involved.
3) I will collect orders request via e-mail until 11/31/98. On 12/1/98, I
will post a message to the list indicating what order(s) we actually qualify
for.
4) If what we qualify for still leaves you interested, call me at
949-888-8283 with quantity and payment arrangements. I still don't know
exactly how to handle the money, how to collect it, how to handle shipping
costs from me to you, etc.
I'm hoping RV-listers, being far and above reproach as I am , can entrust
me with their checks. Added to the amount of the ordered units, a nominal
UPS ground shipping charge (I just checked the UPS web page for a x/c
ground, 2lb. 8"x8"x6" box, insured to $1200, costs $9.97 to ship). $10-12
per unit seems fair since some won't go x/c but I have to buy packaging. If
a particular shipment is substantially less, I will include a check for the
difference.
5) I wait for "official" orders and checks until 12/10/98. If I don't
receive the expected/required amount to qualify for a particular unit, I
send everyone's check back. If I do recieve enough "official" orders to
meet RMI's requirements, I wait for the checks to clear until 12/20, write a
big one to RMI before Christmas, and ship them out to everyone within a
couple of days of reciept.
Again, suggestions welcomed. Lots of you have sent e-mails expressing "yes,
order me one of those" or "yes, i'm interested if the price is right"
content, but again, please send again of your "official" intent.
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q...those somewhat local to Orange County, CA can make
different pickup arrangements with me directly).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount |
Listers:
Please excuse the spelling/grammatical errors in my original message. I
just configured my e-mailer to automatically send/check mail every 5
minutes, and it sent the draft before I revised it.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery location with C/S prop? |
Tom I mounted my battery aft of the rear baggage comp on upper
longerons
Tom RV-4 0-360 CS-prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FASTER RVs Part 1 |
Ron:
I can't find part 2! Can you resend, if you still have the thing, that is.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
Bob,
If what you seek is an explanation of how the LRI works, I can help. It is
a pitot mast with two inlets at different angles. These two inlets are
plumbed to a differential pressure gauge. In a level or zero angle of
attack the pressure between the two ports is zero. As the AOA increases the
differential pressure increases reading higher AOA. It really is that
simple.
I have not flown with one, but I am told with a few calibration flights they
work perfectly, regardless of CG, Gross weight, or acceleration. There is
no reason why they should not. I just wish I had thought of it first!
As for the personalities, I have met Bill Gipole(sp) in the Warbird world.
He imported and sold several L-29's. He is an airline pilot and I found him
to be a fine fellow in the short meetings that I have had with him. I know
nothing further. If I was flying a critical airplane I would have one. I
have no doubt it would shorten up take off and landing distances.
I do know that professional video is obscenely expensive and putting out the
homemade stuff is very unprofessional. So is the behavior you described.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat Kirkpatrick <rv6flyer(at)netscape.net> |
Greetings,
In my search for a prop I am tending to lean tword the Sensenich wood prop.
Anybody have any good reasons not to? Any comments good or bad?
Anybody got a used prop thay would be willing to part with? Engine is 0320
150hp on a 6a.
Thanks,
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV6A Final Assembly -I HATE WING BOLTS
Rio Rancho NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert van der Sanden <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar question, rv8 |
Mike
Problem is that I will have to modify the tab and rebend it rather much.
And yes, the skin and the spar are solidly clecoed together.
All things being equal, I probably will only bend the flange a little
and live with the ribs being a little further in the counterweight skin.
The only drawback i see is that I will have to modify the fiberglass tip
flanges becasue the overhang outboard will be slightly less. But that
should be no biggy.
Thanks for the reply
Gwert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Re: vinyl graphics/lettering . . . this is the "norm" for graphics used
outdoors (e.g. vans, trucks, etc.). The vinyl does not fade, crack, peel,
scrape, etc. like paint does. A comment . . . any city will have a shop
that does "fleet graphics" or "vehicle graphics" (as opposed to "signs").
These are the people that can do the right graphics, in the right size, with
the right equipment, etc. for a great job.
Anyway, that's FYI.
RIck Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
Potential RV-8a builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Listers . . . I'm getting ready to purchase a Jeppesen Techstar Pro
"calculator" (an electronic E6-B). However, somewhere or the other I heard
you can get something for a Palm Pilot III that adds to its capabilities
such that it is also a flight computer (wind calculations, time/distance,
etc.). Has anyone heard of this? Who can I contact for info. Reply to
rickjory(at)msn.com
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
Doug,
Thanks for your always valued input. Regarding the "critical airplane"
comment, what are your thoughts regarding the RV in that light? I assume,
possibly incorrectly, that since you don't have one in your RV you feel its
not a critical airplane.
This would concur with another RV-4 driver, who had an LRI in his plane. I
asked him about it and he says he never really used it, stating there is no
need to in the RV.
However, I want to have max performance/safety on takeoff/climb/approach,
since we have dreams of buying property and putting a short dirt airstrip on
it (quite possibly at high altitude as well).
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
>If I was flying a critical airplane I would have one. I
>have no doubt it would shorten up take off and landing distances.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
Anyone interested in custom vinal graphics can contact me personally. I'm able
to create anything and I try to be 10% cheeper than everybody else.
Eli Lewis
Rv-6 Tail
Venice, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot III |
Rick Jory wrote:
. However, somewhere or the other I heard
> you can get something for a Palm Pilot III that adds to its capabilities
> such that it is also a flight computer (wind calculations, time/distance,
> etc.). Has anyone heard of this? Who can I contact for info. Reply to
>
> rickjory(at)msn.com
I have been looking into this some. Probably the best place to start researchinig
is on the
Zenith webpage. There is a listing of aviation related applications for the Palm
pilots. I don't
have it(address) but you shouldn't have any trouble finding it. Actually, I just
got it.
http://www.zenithair.com/ppilot/index.html
This should get your going. Some neat stuff coming up.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Rivet Lengths |
****snip****
Your Name wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> In preparation for setting the 3/16 rivets in my spars for the RV-6, I did a
> diligent search through the archives for all relevant info on riveting
> methods, and related folklore. A lot of great info was found and I urge you
> all to give the search engine a try. It is fast, simple and powerful.
>
> One key item that was discussed was the importance of maintaining exactly
> 1.5d length on the unset rivet length. While one or two brave souls claimed
> to have set un-cut AN470AD6-25's in the thickest part of the spar, these
> rivets are about 1/16 too long and should probably cut. (I don't want to
> have to search the archives for info on drilling out spar rivets!) Other
> rivets also need to be cut and that is the reason for my post.
>
>
> Dave Lundquist
> RV-6 wings
> Long Island, NY
>
>
>
FWIW, I set the 3/16" rivets with the Avery C-frame and didn't cut the
-25 rivets. They were a little long but came out real nice. I wouldn't
cut them. The only rivets I cut were the ones that held down the spacer
angles because there are none that are the right length. I used a 4
pound sledge with about a foot long handle and it usually took 4 to 5
good licks to set the rivets. Sometimes if I could set them in 3
super-dupper licks. I sweated doing the rivets but soon learned it's
not bad at all.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet spacing |
Tim Houle wrote:
>
>
> Dear listers,
>
> I drilled all my rudder stiffeners the other day and all worked out well,
> however I was going over the plans and noticed that I did the spacing at 1
> 1/4" rather than 1 1/2" I think I read the rivet spacing for the ribs rather
> than the stiffeners, even though the spacing instructions are right in the
> middle of the plans! I don't think this should make any difference. Can
> anyone confirm this or tell me I have to do it over again......
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Tim Houle
> Working on the rudder
> RV6
> Three Hills, Alberta
>
> ***************************
>
> Tim Houle
>
> email:thoule(at)kneehill.com
>
Tim,
The spacing can be less than 1 1/2" ,but not more than that distance.
So, the 1 1/4" is OK.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Listers,
On the way home from Winnipeg MB. on Monday my son and I ended up
stranded in Portage WI. due to bad weather. We got a lift into Madison
(35 miles away) to grab a flight home from a gentleman who's son is
building a KR2. I had to leave my airplane parked outside on the grass
at a strange airport 500 miles away from home. On Wednesday I flew back
to Portage with a friend in his Commanche 250 to retrieve my plane. In
my rush to catch a flight I hadn't left a contact number. Tonight a
concerned EAA'er from Portage called to offer hangar space.
My wife dosen't always approve of my aviation activities but she has
said that airplane people just seem to be good folks. I agree 100%.
By the way, I smoked the Commanche on the way home.
Terry Jantzi
C-GZRV RV-6
Kitchener ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery location with C/S prop? |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Tom Craig-Stearman
My RV-4 with 0-360 C/S has it's battery in the tunnel right along side
the front stick. Since it is a 17 A.H. Power Sonic, there is ample room
in there for it. These batterys are great bargains too at around $48 and
have ample cranking capacity to spin that 0-360. My CG is a little
foreward but I like it there, it gives me more latitude for heavier
passengers or baggage. It requires full up trim when landing when solo
with full tanks. I can look up the exact MT weight CG if you want it.
Regards, Bill Davis
N66WD flying, RV-8 Fuse just out of the Jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allegro M816 Engine analyzer |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Listers,
Is there anyone out there actually using one of these units or one of the
fuel flow totalizers? I am interested in your evaluation. I have
allegro's info but have been unable to actually see one installed. I am
particularly insterested in the readability of the liquid crystal display
as compared to a VM1000 which I consider about as good a display( from a
readability standpoint) as I have seen. Where liquid crystals usually
fall flat is when flying into the sun.
Thanks for the help,
Bill Davis
N66WD flying, RV-8 a-building
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Allegro M816 Engine analyzer/Matronics FuelScan |
<< Is there anyone out there actually using one of these units or one of the
fuel flow totalizers? I am interested in your evaluation. >>
Bill: check the archives for input re: the Matronics FuelScan. It's a real
sweetie! Besides, if you buy one, you don't have to feel guilty every year
when it comes time to ante up to keep this list financially sound. Aw heck- I
sent in some bucks anyway. Matt needs a haircut.
Sorry to say that I have no input on the Allegro, tho.
Are you putting a high turtledeck on your -8?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Rivet Lengths |
In a message dated 11/19/98 8:01:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
calverjl(at)flash.net writes:
<< FWIW, I set the 3/16" rivets with the Avery C-frame and didn't cut the
-25 rivets. They were a little long but came out real nice. I wouldn't
cut them. The only rivets I cut were the ones that held down the spacer
angles because there are none that are the right length. I used a 4
pound sledge with about a foot long handle and it usually took 4 to 5
good licks to set the rivets. Sometimes if I could set them in 3
super-dupper licks. I sweated doing the rivets but soon learned it's
not bad at all. >>
I agree that the job with a 4# hammer and a c-clamp works fine and make nice
looking rivets. My young partner, Rob Rimbold, with good eye and hand
coordination could set them with two to three licks. It seemed that if we
tried to cut them that the cut end was not as true and the rivets tended to go
off to a side more. We ordered a bag of #ll lengths and they worked super nice
out there in the one section that really did not have the correct length in
the kit.
Bernie Kerr, 6A canopy frame area, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
We are having our 4th annual RV flyin at Treasure Coast Airpark ( a
residential community with lots of RV activity). It will be Sat the 5th of Dec
and we will have a very delicious breakfast and a seminar on Lycoming engine
maintenance and care. If you are flying an RV and are more than 3 hours RV
time away, we will find you a place to sleep here Friday night. For more info,
email me.
Bernie Kerr, 6A canopy area, email kerrjb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell) |
| Subject: | Avionics Catalogs |
I have called for catalogs from Pcific Coast Avionics 1-503-678-6242,
and also Eastern Avionics (don't have that no. handy). Both sent a wealth
of information. Guaranteed to get you thinking!
David Wentzell
Racine, WI - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV Forum Keynote Speaker |
Fellow Listers:
I am working on the program for the 1999 Twin Cities RV Forum (April 24 in
Red Wing, MN). My most pressing task is to find a keynote speaker for our
evening banquet. I thought I might ask our group if anyone has any
suggestions in the RV World. We are willing to provide transportation and
lodging to MN and our usual "VIP" treatment!!
So if anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Doug Weiler,
pres, MN Wing
============
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Allegro M816 Engine analyzer |
William R. Davis Jr wrote:
> Is there anyone out there actually using one of these units or one of the
> fuel flow totalizers? I am interested in your evaluation. I have
> allegro's info but have been unable to actually see one installed. I am
> particularly insterested in the readability of the liquid crystal display
> as compared to a VM1000 which I consider about as good a display( from a
> readability standpoint) as I have seen. Where liquid crystals usually
> fall flat is when flying into the sun.
>
Bill, Frank here,
I have an Allegro M816 in my RV4 and really do like it.
Readability is not a problem.
Email Peter duBois who is the boss at Allegro. Peter du Bois
The fuel totalizer is amazing. I carefully kept track of exactly how much I put
in the tanks for about five refills and my tally was 72.3 gallons. The darned
old
Allegro insisted it was 72.4 gallons. Pretty small percentage error which could
surely be due to the filling process or gas pump calibration.
This thing works well. Grin. I would give it a five star rating.
Frank Zeck, RV4, N2ZK flying, but crippled.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | More about the LRI order. (long) |
Gentlemen,
I recieved the following E-Mail from Jim Huntington today and debated
wether or not to post it here. I suppose it is only fair that you have the
chance to read this and decide if you want to do any more reasearch
yourself. I am still taking names for those interested in ordering the unit
at our special RV discounted rate. I have enough for the first order but
you can still get on it. I will start posting details about the order in
the next few days privately to the individuals. NOT to the list! You can go
to:
>>>>> http://www.liftreserve.com/ <<<<<
if you wish to learn more about this instrument. Please E-Mail me direct at
do with this company other than I like their instrument and wouldn't mind
having it in my RV! AL
>Return-Path:
>X-Sender: jimrhunt(at)pop.ncal.verio.com
>Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 10:09:06 -0800
>To: Al Mojzisik
>From: James R Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com>
>Subject: LRI
>
>
>*********************************************
>
>You may be aware of this, but in case you are not: The LRI has been around
>since 1980.
>
>Kitplanes recently pointed out that in the last 14 years there have been
>over 5,000 fatal incidents involving inadvertant stall. A properly
>callibrated LRI scanned during low and slow flight will enable a pilot to
>avoid inadvertant stall. The airspeed indicator will not. This and other
>important performance and safety characteristics have been verified over
>the years by:
>
>Aviation Consumer Magazine
>Cessna Aircraft Company
>Wichita State University
>Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University
>Business and Commercial Aviation Magazine
>Plane and Pilot Magazine
>AOPA
>
>The LRI is fully patented. It has been flown for hundreds of thousands of
>hours in all kinds of conditions all over the world. It has been used by
>pilots of varying levels of skill and consistantly it has received good
>reports from pilots who have found themselves more and more relying on the
>instrument. We get communications from pilots every week endorsing the
>LRI. Below are two :
>
> **************************************
>
>To:
>Subject: LRI Installed and Working!
>Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:35:56 -0700
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1155
>
>No reply needed: just want to say the LRI is in, calibrated (only one
>re-adjustment after setting at 50-degrees initially) and five flights
>since. It seems to be telling me when I have enough lift for rotation on
>take off, and always is right on the money when the nose drops in a stall.
>Final approach reaffirms that I have been coming in too "hot" and LRI says
>(and I believe) I can reduce my indicated speed by at least 10MPH and still
>have adequate and safe reserve of lift prior to stall.
>
>Would I buy another one? Yes, and as time goes on I believe I shall
>appreciate the instrument even more.
>
>Installation on the RV-6A (tip-up canopy) was easy enough, although it did
>require some modification of the gauge housing. Fortunately it was long
>enough that the rear could be "slanted" even more to match the RV's canopy
>slope.
>
>All in all an interesting instrument...Good luck in the future. (For what
>its worth, you can use this message as you see fit.)
>
>John w. Fasching
>Salida, CO 81201
>
>***********************************************************
>From: AHPOWERS(at)aol.com
>Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:34:07 EST
>To: JimRHunt(at)wco.com
>Subject: Lift Reserve Indicator
>X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Mac sub 82
>
>I have the old style 3 inch LRI instrument mounted in my panel on my Twin
>Comanche...I'm pleased that you are manufacturing the units again. I
>continue to be an advocate of the LRI.
>
>Warm regards, A. H. Powers
>************************************************
>And I will include one more e-mail from a noted aviation writer who has
>been flying with the LRI since 1982:
>**************************************************
>
>Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 11:28:05 -0700
>From: Keith Connes <kconnes(at)silcom.com>
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02Gold (Win95; I)
>To: jimrhunt(at)wco.com
>Subject: LRI
>
>Dear Jim:
>
>I knew your father fairly well. We had considerable correspondence about
>the LRI and he installed one on my Grumman Tiger...
>
>The LRI is still on my plane. I use it for every takeoff, approach and
>landing. People are always asking me what it is and I tell them how
>useful it is.
>
>I am glad to learn that you plan to produce the LRI again. I'll be glad to
>help because, obviously, I believe in the product...I'll be happy to pass
>on my experiences with
>the LRI.
>
>Sincerely, Keith
>******************************************************
>
>Thanks Al for you interest and help,
>
>Jim Huntington
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I would like to trim the nearest
> edge with tubing as per Tony B's plans
>
I looked at a lot of RV glareshields before I completed mine and found that
I didn't like the looks of the bulky padded ones (a la Tony B.). Neither
did I like the the plain ones where the aft edge of the aluminum glare
shield was only covered with a piece of rubber molding.
For my glareshield, I mounted a piece of 3/8" soft aluminum tubing (same as
fuel line) along the aft edge of the glareshield. I cut a lengthwise slot
in the tubing, pushed it on the aft edge of the glareshield, and held it in
place with fillets of epoxy along the top and bottom. I was pleased with
the results. It gives the glareshield a nice "beaded" edge that looks right
in place next to the tubular frame that supports it (tip-up canopy). The
tube also stiffens the glareshield considerably and eliminates the "sharp"
aft edge.
To cut the slot in the tubing, I used a 3" cutting disk mounted in a drill
press. I drilled a 3/8" hole near the edge of a 2x4 and cut a slot between
the center of the hole and the edge. This was clamped vertically on the
drill press
so the cutting disc protrudes through the slot into the center of the hole.
The tube was pushed through the hole to cut the slot. (I drew a guide line
along the length of the tube so I could cut the slot straight.)
I used Power Poxy (Walmart) for the fillets. It has the consistency of very
soft modeling clay, is easy to use, sets up in about 30 minutes, and sands
easily. The application tool was my finger moistened with rubbing alcohol.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 298 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
>Anybody got a used prop thay would be willing to part with? Engine is 0320
>150hp on a 6a.
>
>Thanks,
>Pat Kirkpatrick
Pat,
I have a Props Inc. prop that I flew on my 150 hp RV6 that is in excellent
condition. 180 mph on a slightly overweight airplane (and pilot). This is
laminates and has leading edge protection. It comes with the 4", "H"
extension, all bolts (3/8" to crank flange) and a spinner that has a perfect
fit (two days labor). I'm running the Sensenich fixed pitch, now. The wood
prop has the same cruise performance as the Sensenich but the Sensencih
achives the same speed on 100 rpms less. Price is $650.00 U.S.
I'll be out of town for another, 1 week RV building session so will not be
able to respond right away. Please respond off list to bskinr(at)trib.com.
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Kit for Sale: SF Bay Area |
Posted for a builder who is switching to the RV6:
RV8 wing kit for sale; partially assembled by experienced RV4 builder. One
wing is on the jig - primed, dimpled & ready to rivet. One fuel tank is
fitted, drilled & dimpled. Duckworks landing lights installed. The right
wing and control surfaces have not yet been started.Owner wishes to sell for
$4530 or best offer. Owner willing to assist with completion in his shop if
desired. He's located in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, California.
If interested please leave a message for Steve Barnes at (707) 546-4261. He
has no email capability (Luddite!)
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Skirt |
In
>fitting my canopy skirt (this is epoxy on the 8), I found it to be
>difficult to get a good fit. For one thing, there were no scribe lines
>to follow on my skirt, which the manual says there is. Tom at Vans
>said to' look closer, they are on there', I used a magnifying glass,
>and every now and then near the edge you can see a slight mark, but
>nowhere near something you could follow. So those of you with finish
>kits, check your canopy skirts for the scribe lines, it would make it
>alot easier if you had it. I wound up having to cut the skirt in half
>at the back where it wraps around. I had contacted 3 other builders
>with flying RV-8's, they all had to cut theirs in half also, and then
>re-epoxy together. This also makes the piece much easier to handle,
>than to have this huge floppy 'U' shaped thing. I have the finish kit
>video from George, but it just shows it going on with no problems, so
>I guess perhaps it is possible. But then doesnt everything work
>perfect for George? Anyway, for those of you up and coming, anticipate
>that this is a problem. One RV-8 builder
>said he was not so sure this skirt was any easier than the metal skirt
>on
>his RV-4!
>Perhaps Scott McDaniels can help us on this one.
>
>
Von,
Installing the canopy on any model RV is probably one of the most
challenging major assemblies of building the airplane that you will
encounter if you strive to have a real quality installation (ask builders
of many of the other kits with large movable canopies and the will tell
you the same).
I know this is of little help but it is true.
The fitting of the composite skirt on an RV-8 probably isn't much easier
than doing the metal one on an RV-4 but it is easier than doing a metal
one would be on an RV-8. The RV-8 skirt has quite a bit of compound
curve just aft of the F-807 bulkhead ( I know because I did the
installation on 58RV, the yellow tail dragger. It had a metal skirt, and
we determined that builders would probably have a very frustrating time
doing it in metal).
How well the skirt fits depends on so many things. How well you
positioned and fitted the frame and canopy. What the actual shape of the
frame and canopy is (they do very a small amount from one to another).
The scribe lines on the skirt were located conservatively and would not
necessarily have given you a point to trim to for a final fit.
I would recommend that you trim along the top canopy intersection flange
and then concentrate on fitting the skirt as well to the canopy and frame
as possible (after you have made sure that the frame is tweaked into
position so that the bottom sides match the longeron line properly to get
a good fit of the skirt, etc.
Then work at final trimming the bottom of the skirt at the rear to get a
good fit on the turtle deck. Cutting and rejoining the skirt right at
the aft end is simple to do if you end up with gaps in this area.
This probably isn't much help but it is hard to give help using E-mail
for this type of thing. I could probably talk for hours about some of
the different factors that can effect the whole process and still not
answer all of the questions that builders might come up with (which is
also why the construction manual sometimes seems lacking for this sort of
procedure).
Hope this is of some help.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot III |
Go to the 3Com Home page. There are many shareware/freeware programs for the
Palm Pilot. One of them is the E6B you referred to.
Sincerely,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
(650) 506-2740
From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 2:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Palm Pilot III
Listers . . . I'm getting ready to purchase a Jeppesen Techstar Pro
"calculator" (an electronic E6-B). However, somewhere or the other I heard
you can get something for a Palm Pilot III that adds to its capabilities
such that it is also a flight computer (wind calculations, time/distance,
etc.). Has anyone heard of this? Who can I contact for info. Reply to
rickjory(at)msn.com
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount |
I don't see why in the interest of customer relations that RMI would not let
each of us provide them payment and have the units shipped direct?
Sincerely,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
(650) 506-2740
From: Robert Acker <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount
Listers:
I just spoke with Ron Mowrer at RMI. Here are his terms:
Five orders minimum to qualify for 5% discount (that's 5 *kit* orders or 5
*assembled unit* orders). Also, no mixing of uEncoders or uMonitors, so
need 5 minimum of each to place order for either unit. Strictly one lump
payment and one shipment only.
So, if you are still interested, I offer the following suggestion for
placing our order (other suggestions/ideas welcomed):
1) Tell your non-RV-list friends about this if they want in, you deal and
collect from them directly.
2) Send me e-mail specifying unit type(s), quantity ea., kit or assembled.
I don't want to do any of the options/accessories since there is no discount
involved.
3) I will collect orders request via e-mail until 11/31/98. On 12/1/98, I
will post a message to the list indicating what order(s) we actually qualify
for.
4) If what we qualify for still leaves you interested, call me at
949-888-8283 with quantity and payment arrangements. I still don't know
exactly how to handle the money, how to collect it, how to handle shipping
costs from me to you, etc.
I'm hoping RV-listers, being far and above reproach as I am , can entrust
me with their checks. Added to the amount of the ordered units, a nominal
UPS ground shipping charge (I just checked the UPS web page for a x/c
ground, 2lb. 8"x8"x6" box, insured to $1200, costs $9.97 to ship). $10-12
per unit seems fair since some won't go x/c but I have to buy packaging. If
a particular shipment is substantially less, I will include a check for the
difference.
5) I wait for "official" orders and checks until 12/10/98. If I don't
receive the expected/required amount to qualify for a particular unit, I
send everyone's check back. If I do recieve enough "official" orders to
meet RMI's requirements, I wait for the checks to clear until 12/20, write a
big one to RMI before Christmas, and ship them out to everyone within a
couple of days of reciept.
Again, suggestions welcomed. Lots of you have sent e-mails expressing "yes,
order me one of those" or "yes, i'm interested if the price is right"
content, but again, please send again of your "official" intent.
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q...those somewhat local to Orange County, CA can make
different pickup arrangements with me directly).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Eli,
Can this method be used for small lettering on instrument panel; i.e.
1/8th inch high?
Ron V. RV6Q, ready to taxi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Fall Fund Raiser Contributor List #1... |
Dear Listers,
As promised, please find attached a list of everyone that has made a
contribution as of Thursday 11/19/98 in the Fall 1998 List Fund Raiser!
If you made a contribution using a company check, be sure to check under
that company name if you can't find your personal name. To the best of my
knowledge, there is only one name that is missing and that was a cash
donation in which I misplaced the envelope. If you sent cash, and your
name is missing, drop me an email and I'll make sure that your name is
listed on the follow up Contributor List post in a couple of weeks.
Well, I must say that this was the most successful Fund Raiser for the Lists
to date. I want to thank each and every one you that has made a contribution
to support this valuable service. Your generosity has paid for the most recent
system upgrades and will support the on going expenses of running the Lists
into the coming year. The number of contributing members as a percentage of
the total number of members on the combined lists was up by 100% percent this
time. There were many 'first time contributors' this time around, and I want
to thank them for coming on board!
I also want to send a personal and hearty thank you out to my good friend
Al Mojzisik for his unrelenting support, encouragement, and creativity on
my behalf during this Fall's Fund Raiser. Al, you're a great friend and
I thoroughly appreciate all of your help. Thank you!
I would also like to thank those of you that posted inspiring words about
the List and what it means to you. It would seem that your comments inspired
many to make that first time contribution!
Many of you included a few words of thanks and encouragement along with
your contributions and I appreciated each and every one. I was very moved
by the incredible support and friendship each of you have expressed. I have
been very inspired by your kind words and appreciation of the long hours
I have spent maintaining and upgrading this service.
If you were meaning to make a contribution but it slipped your mind, there is
still plenty of time to get it in before the next Contributor List posting.
As I mentioned above, I will be posting a Follow Up Contributor List in
about two weeks to acknowledge the stragglers.
Thanks again to *everyone* that made a contribution! *YOU* make this List
possible! I'm just here to steer... :-)
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
To make a Contribution with credit card, please go the the special Secure URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
or you may contribute by sending a personal check to:
Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
================== Fall Fund Raiser Contributor List #1 =====================
John Abell
Robert Acker
Robert Adams
Rudy Albachten III
Brent Allen
Patrick Allender
Edward Anderson
John Anderson
Aero Electric Connection
M.E. Asher
James Ashford
Kent Ashton
Robert Baggett
Gary Baker
Ray Baker
Melvin Barlow
Bruce Bell
Belted Air Power, LTD
Ryan Bendure
Peter Bennett
Lee Bergner
Richard Bibb
Dave Biddle
Paul Bilodeau
Carroll Bird
Warren Bishop
Stan Blanton
Wayne Bonesteel
Larry Bowen
Bob Bower
Eustace Bowhay
William Boyd
Lewis Bragassa
Garrett Bray
John Brick
Mike Brogley
Tim Bronson
Chris Brooks
James Brown
Thomas Brown
David Bruner
Raymond Bryant
Sam Buchanan
Bradley Bundy
Peter Burrowes
Bob Busick
Ronald Calhoun
Jerry Calvert
Louis Cappucci
Richard Caummisar
Stanley Challgren
Don Champagne
Tom Chapman
Robert Chatham
Adrian Chick
R.L. Christensen
John Ciolino
James Clark
Buck Clary
Dennis Clay
John Cocker
Edward Cole
Steven Cole
Moe Colontonio
Tony Colucci
James Conaway
Gary Corde
Bill Costello
Timothy Cotter
James Cowen
Thomas Craig-Stearman
W.B. Cretsinger
Jonathon Croke
Thomas D'Aurizio
John Darby Jr.
William Davis Jr
John Devlin
Robert Di Meo
Donald Diehl
John Dralle
Joe Drumm
Mike Ducote
Russel Duffy
Sylvain Duford
Chuck Dunlap
Chris East
Brian Eckstein
Chris Edwards
Martin Emrath
Charles England
David Faile Jr.
Deal Fair
Jeff Farrar
Peter Ferguson
Lanny Fetterman
Michael Fiedler
Michael Fine
Gerald Forrest
Carl Franz
Clifford Fred Hiatt
Mark Frederick
Ted French
Frank Friedman
Leon Friedman
Carl Froehlich
Terence Gannon
Don Gates
Robert Gibbons
Roberto Giusti
Roy Glass
Ken Glover
Mark Goldberg
Chris Good
Shelby Gott
Gene Gottschalk
Jordan Grant
Thomas Graumlich
Ken Gray
Raymond Grenier
Rich Grialou
Bill Griffin
Tony Gunn
Ivan Haecker
Craig Hagen
Robert Hall
Steve Hamer
Nick Hampton
Merle Hargis
Denton Harjehausen
Ken Harrill
Dennis Hart
J.C. Hassall
Cecil Hatfield
Wes Hays
Randall Henerson
Mike Henney
Craig Hiers
John Higgins
Michael Hilger
Vincent Himsl
Cris Hinch
Joseph Hine
Frank Hodson
Kelly Hoffer, III
John Holmgreen
Kevin Horton
John Hosack
Ken Hoshowski
Robert Hughes
James Hurd
Michael Hurst
Interlink Recuiting
Jerry Isler
Fred Jackson
Steven Janicki
Bob Japundza
Ken Jeens
Kenneth Jeens
Dick Jennings
Keith Jensen
Johann Johannsson
Stephen Johnson
Graham Jones
Bill Jonker
Scott Jordan
Thomas Jordan
John Karnes
Yohannes Kayir
Robert Kellar
Patrick Kelley
Hal Kempthorne
Bernie Kerr
L.M. Klimgmuller
Jerald Knievel
Bruce Knoll
Michael Kosta
Chris Krieg
Dan Krueger
Charlie Kuss
Mark LaBoyteaux
Frank Laczko Sr.
Richard Lamb
Jim Larsen
Finn Lassen
Mike Laverty
John Lee
Philip Lehrke
Randy Lervold
Tim Lewis
Jim Lewman
Brian Lloyd
Ed Loveday
Philip Lozman
David Lundquist
Lawrence MacDonald
Hugh MacKenzie
Don Mack
Todd Magargle
Francis Malczynski
Bill Marr
Nigel Marshall
Audio Mart, Inc
Clifford Martin
Tom Martin
Mark McGee
Michael McGee
Michael McGee
Tedd McHenry
Larry McKee
Mike McKenna
Joel McLaughlin
George McNutt
Kent Mead
Don Mickelson
Merle Miller
Duane Mitchell
Allan Mojzisik
Warren Moore
John Morrissey
Graham Murphy
Douglas Murray
Thomas Nguyen
James Nice
Vincent Nicely
William Nichelson
Jack Noble
Rob Norris
Robert Noyer
Edward O'Connor
James Olendorf
Tom Olson
Jeff Orear
Tom Orsborn
William Pagan
Lyle Pahnke
Gary Palinkas
John Pasemann
Don Pawn Shop
Dennis Persyk
Eric Petersen
Alex Peterson
Don Pfeiffer
David Pfister
Randy Pflanzer
Greg Phillips
Richard Pick
Jim Pickrell
George Pinneo
Jim Pollard
Paul Quick
Richard Rathbun
D.E. Rayfield
Derek Reed
Richard Reynolds
Paul Riedlinger
Rob Rimbold
Daniel Ripley
Philip Rogerson
Doug Rozendaal
Carlos Sa
Jim Sager
Martin Sailer Jr.
Andrew SanClemente
Cheryl Sanchez
Tom Sargent
Nate Schiff
Doug Shenk
Randy Simpson
Richard Sipp
Bob Skinner
Jonathan Smith
Philip Smith
Shelby Smith
David Snyder
Gary Sobek
Hyun Sook Mazataud
Stphen Soule
George Stanley
Terrel Stern
Randall Stevens
Bruce Stobbe
Cliff Stripling
Stan Sullivan
Ron Taborek
Geoff Thistlethwaite
Todd Thompson
Mark Todd
Jim Van Laak
Gert VanDerSanden
Gerald VanGrunsven
Stanley VanGrunsven
Gary VanRemortel
Ronald Vandervort
Tom Velvick
Joe Walker
D.L. Walsh
John Walsh
Terrence Watson
Horace Weeks
Doug Weiler
Jim Wendel
David Wentzell
Leslie Wentzell
Steve White
Eric Whiteside
James Williams
Keith Williams
Leslie Williams
Lewis Willig
Elbert Wills
Mike Wills
Billy Wilson
Denton Wood
John Wood
Donald Woodley
Thomas Wormsley
Dale Wotring
Charles Young
Greg Young
Barry Youngblood
Rich Zeidman
Gary Zilik
Ralph Zinkham
Zenith Aircraft Company
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
>This would concur with another RV-4 driver, who had an LRI in his plane. I
>asked him about it and he says he never really used it, stating there is no
>need to in the RV.
The big advantage of any AOA system (LRI is one) is that it is independent
of weight and load factor - Gs- (and CG on some airplanes). It is still
dependent on configuration (flaps), though. This advantage translates to
knowing when stall will occur during that base to final turn or how close
you are to stall when you're out yankin' and bankin'. It sure beats trying
to look up speeds in the AFM.
All the big boys use it; it is called either a fast/slow indicator or an AOA
gage in their planes. The pilot shoots an approach at a normalized AOA of
0.6 or 1.3Vstall - (normalized AOA is a "0" value at 0 deg AOA and a value
of "1" at stall.
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Found the owner of an RV6A which has been parked out at the Venice Florida
airport for at least two years. I contacted the individual to find out how
he made the forward U shape in the control stick (my wife is short) he said
a welder friend of his did this for him. Anyway the conversation
transitioned into the need to selling the airplane because of medical
reasons. Said he was a Nam pilot and really enjoyed the plane but can't fly
anymore.
RV6A 160 HP CP PROP, ILS, GPS, ETC.
Total time on engine SMOH 350 hrs
Aircraft completed in 92, 350 hrs on airframe. needs annual.
Airplane is painted black looks like quite a bit of bondo work on it. Dont
know anything about the individual or the airplaneaccept that its been
standing idle for a long time. If interested contact John Shimerda 941 485
1540. Now getting back to my fuselage!!!
RV6A/fuselage
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
| Subject: | Alumi-prep/phosphoric acid |
I have been told that the Alumiprep I have been using is only phosphoric
acid with some added wetting agents. (dishwashing liquid)
Can anyone confirm this for me, as I have a much cheaper source of
phosphoric acid,
If so the acid I have is labelled 81% food grade how much should I
dilute it ?
Thank you.
Trevor Mills
80605
left wing in jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New List Member |
{{Thought I would introduce myself to the list. I'm just getting started
on an RV-6 empennage.
Name: Doug Hormann
Age: 37}}
Doug, Welcome aboard. Just started myself and this list is invaluable.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV-6QB arriving next week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
We can make anything from photo quality decals to any size and shape
lettering. Please contact wd248(at)aol.com for further information. Thanks Eli
Lewis.. Rv-6 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | GEE, LET'S DO IT AGAIN! |
GEE Listers that fund raiser was so much fun that I think we should do it
again. Real soon! NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was really pleased to see that
LOC Matt posted. WOW !~ That list was a virtual Who's Who of RVers. I have
seen some of those names in some of the best aviation publications! What a
community of builders to belong to.
I really appreciated Matt's Kudos' however all the credit for my part goes
to my wife. She's the one who can reach those buckles around back that let
my arms loose! What a special gal! Seriously though she has put up with me
spending more time than usual on this computer and I want to publicly thank
her for that.
I would like to make a suggestion however, rather than having List Fund
Raisers several times a year that we consider having just one in November
like we just did. YOU CAN STILL CONTRIBUTE at any time during the year but
we will have a real push to get people to participate in November. If you
contribute before that, your name will still appear on the LOC. Can you do
that Matt?
I know that I feel really good about paying this contribution voluntarily.
I think it shows a degree of trust in each other that runs throughout this
list, indeed throughout most of the RV community! You guys and gals ARE a
very special bunch of people. Thanks for putting up with me!
Lastly I would like to thank all those that sent me messages on the list
and the many sent privately telling me how much you enjoyed reading some of
my verbal begging. (No, I don't do this for a living!) Your a GREAT
audience! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
Disposition-Notification-To: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
I'm getting close to making the "plunge" into an RV-6A project. Any builders
(complete or in-process) in Connecticut out there who wouldn't sharing
their experiences? You can reply to cpaulson@paulson-training.com. Thanks.
Craig Paulson
Middlefield, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <danb(at)accex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount |
"Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
> I don't see why in the interest of customer relations that RMI would not let
> each of us provide them payment and have the units shipped direct?
that they get 5 (or 10, or whatever) sales, and only have to do
paperwork for one.
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, danb(at)accex.net
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good
with ketchup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot III |
Try looking at the 3Com Web Site (www.palm.com) I would like to know about
this one too, I use my Palm Pilot daily.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alumi-prep/phosphoric acid |
Mills, Trevor R wrote:
> I have been told that the Alumiprep I have been using is only phosphoric
> acid with some added wetting agents. (dishwashing liquid)
>
> Can anyone confirm this for me, as I have a much cheaper source of
> phosphoric acid,
> If so the acid I have is labelled 81% food grade how much should I
> dilute it ?
Trevor,
I also question the types of Alumi-prep. On the bottle of PPG prep it says in the
small print
on the back of the bottle that it is not to be used on copper or silicone based
aluminum.
That just about rule out 6061-T6 and 2024-T3. I used a aluminum cleaner by Endura
and
found it to work rather well. I would be hesitant about a home grown formula
'cause I'm
not an engineer. What is there in the cleaners that would hurt the aircraft grade
aluminum
but not lower grades? Anyone out there know?
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders in CT |
Hi Craig,
The local Hartford Chapter 166 of the EAA is quite active. We meet on the last
Sunday of each month at the P&W Training Center at East Hartford. Stop by, we have
a few RV builders on the group.
Bruce
Glasair III builder
Middletown, CT
344-9756
Craig Paulson wrote:
>
> I'm getting close to making the "plunge" into an RV-6A project. Any builders
> (complete or in-process) in Connecticut out there who wouldn't sharing
> their experiences? You can reply to cpaulson@paulson-training.com. Thanks.
>
> Craig Paulson
> Middlefield, CT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Mahalo,
There is a buitiful RV-4 in Hilo. I am ashamed to admit that I have lost
the name of the owner (which I got from this list). He is a veternarian in
Hilo and was very kind, spent several hours with me in January when I was
out there. He even took me for a ride, excepting gas money only after I
convinced him that my company would pay it as an entertainment expense
since I was on a trip. I understand there is also a rocket on Maui and an
RV-8 under construction on Oahu.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SE Fla RV FLYIN |
Where is Treasure Coast Airpark?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Walker" <fwalker(at)insurquote.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alumi-prep/phosphoric acid |
hello, I use phosphoric acid on steel parts for derusting when restoring
old cars, and it works great. but have been warned not to use it on parts
that need their strength because of hydrogen imbrittelment which can cause
parts to become brittle and fail in use, I don't know about aluminum but
there can be similar reaction. just my two cents worth
frank walker
RV-6 convinced family - ordering tail kit in January
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI uEncoder/Monitor Discount |
>
>I don't see why in the interest of customer relations that RMI would not
let
>each of us provide them payment and have the units shipped direct?
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Steven B. Janicki
>Sr. Director
>Oracle Data Center
When I spoke to Ron, the individual shipping cost would bring his margin to
an unacceptable level after the 5% discount.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
If you find that you cannot get a dimpler under the spar flange to dimple
for the plate nuts that hold the tanks on, good news,there is a solution.
Not only did I not have enough room for a dimpler because the pre-punched
holes were too high for my location, (I could not get the skin pulled down
any farther without folding the wing), but in my haste to get the most out
of a helper to come and buck two entire wings for me, we steamed ahead and
closed one whole side of each, BEFORE I remembered to put in the nut plates
and dimple those that could be dimpled. Haste makes waste ????
I did not want to de-rivet the whole panel to gain access because it is
LOTS of work, but more importantly, all the holes would likely be oversized
and I did not want that.......Now here is the solution.......I would have
been forced to machine countersink these holes and the plans say to dimple
this area, so the 7th Cavalry in the form of Van's own Scott McDaniels came
to the rescue.
He advised me that Avery puts out a tool that uses a plate nut, an Allen
head machine screw, and wrench to allow you to get into very tight spots
and dimple from one side.
I knew he would come through with something, bless his soul.
The tool arrived yesterday, and I used it with great success. You should
look into this one, it works, it's cheap, and it is a life and work saver
extraordinaire.
Thanks so much to Scott, he is a real asset to all of us !!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
>
>>This would concur with another RV-4 driver, who had an LRI in his plane.
I
>>asked him about it and he says he never really used it, stating there is
no
>>need to in the RV.
>
>
>The big advantage of any AOA system (LRI is one) is that it is independent
>of weight and load factor - Gs- (and CG on some airplanes). It is still
>dependent on configuration (flaps), though
Ron,
Those are the exact reasons for having an AOA indicator on board. Airplanes
can stall at any airspeed, only one AOA for a particular airframe
configuration. The LRI is not a true AOA indicator, but rather a pressure
differential indicator affected by AOA/airspeed I believe, making it
independent of airframe config.
The point of my question was how "sensitive" is the RV to differing flap
settings, density alt's, etc. I.E. is it a "critical airplane" as Doug put
it.
I've been in a very heavy RV-6 (BAP Vortec V-6 with full fuel and 450+ lbs
of flap on board), it had no problem at 80kts indicated 60deg. plus bank
angle. So, does one really "need" the extra protection from such a device
with an aircraft having a wide safety margin?
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim failure |
>The failure of the relay ?
The most common failure of relays in THIS specific situation
will be from UNDERLOADING of the contacts . . . corrosion
sets in and there's not enough current flowing in the system
to keep the contacts working. Bad design? Not really, but
perhaps poor selection of relays. There are relays with gold
flashed contacts that do not corrode. Using truly sealed relays
impervious to external environmental changes helps a lot too.
>
>Can't you avoid this failure node by using Matt's governor? I got one
>and need no relays for my assorted switches!
The best way to avoid relay failure is don't have any relays.
There the only good excuse for staying with the electro-mechanical
devices is cost and complexity. We're developing sold state, DC
relays that will handle any common loads in a 14V aircraft but
the only thing they'll offer over the automotive plastics is
longevity and some packaging features that make them easy to
incorporate into our etched circuit board power distribution panels.
The trim system should be limited in ultimate authority so that failure-
to-trim or runaway trim jammed into either mechanical limit poses
no threat to the comfortable termination of flight. If you'e not
fully explored this envelope and rectified any unacceptable
characteristics, then dependence on electrical things to do their
job is more important.
In the final analysis, I'd like to have a trim system that is
adequate yet non-hazardous by design so that reliance on things
electrical is a maintenace issue, not a flight issue.
BTW . . . for those of you who are disappointed in the size and
type of wire supplied by MAC with their actuators, write them
an let them KNOW ABOUT IT . . . They should be using Mil-W-22759
22AWG wire . . . or 24AWG if there's really a size problem (I
don't think there is . . . need to open one up again and look
inside). What's more, all 5 wires should be different colors.
The last one I looked at had two white wires for the motor
leads. You have a 50% chance of being right the first time.
I'd love to put real colors on my wiring diagrams that make
it run right the first time.
Subscribing to the list-servers I do, I hear numerous
complaints about their wires over the course of a year. This
is not FAA-holywatered-certified junk folks, these are consumer
products for amateur built airplanes. You're not complaining
to the service department of Cessna or Piper but to a small
shop where you can call and the the immediate attention of
the CEO. If you don't push, why should anything change?
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walsh, John" <jwalsh1(at)unifi.com> |
> >
> configuration. The LRI is not a true AOA indicator, but rather a pressure
> differential indicator affected by AOA/airspeed I believe, making it
> independent of airframe config.
>
It still appears to me that this device is virtually identical to
what Dr. Powell did.
The only significant difference is that Dr. Powell used a 2nd pitot
tube with the
existing one and an old airspeed indicator as a guage. Oh yeah, Dr
Powell's setup is
really cheap.
The big weakness in this setup (both of them) is the lack of an
audible or visual alarm for impending stall. I see this as far more
important for RV flying than an actual AOA device. If I'm in danger of
stalling in the dreaded base to final turn, it is unlikely that I will be
staring at the panel. More likely, I am looking out the window.
John ( looking for a cheap alternative to the $1500 cerfified stall
warning device )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
I have been following the thread re: the LRI with great interest lately,
and magically in this months issue of Kitplanes, buried and almost missed,
is an entire article on AOA and the value of it to the military and GA.
It's a very good article that explains the merits of such a simple and yet
effective device. I suggest all to read it for another opinion and better
understanding of such a critical device.
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Craig,
If you want a ride, let me know when and where....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> From: Craig Paulson [SMTP:cpaulson@paulson-training.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 8:55 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Builders in CT
>
> <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
> I'm getting close to making the "plunge" into an RV-6A project. Any
> builders
> (complete or in-process) in Connecticut out there who wouldn't sharing
> their experiences? You can reply to cpaulson@paulson-training.com. Thanks.
>
> Craig Paulson
> Middlefield, CT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Explanation |
Thanks Doug,Send me the details on how to get this thing Pleeze.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Too many Toys, was LRI |
Editorial Starts here: (you're not gonna like this Al)
I believe that if you can figure out a way to put a switch, a light, a gage,
or a bell, on anything you can sell it to a pilot!
I am fortunate to fly in many airplanes with pilots of wide ranging skills.
When I am asked to ride in an airplane that is loaded to the gills with toys
my guard is on hi-alert. People who have a lot of money, typically have
don't have a lot of time. Hence they don't get a lot of flying experience.
Some of these people think that buying more toys will make them better
pilots.
The sales pitches that push these devices all are centered around making
your airplane safer. Having more toys in your cockpit also impresses your
non-pilot passengers. I will hypothesize a theorem here, "The experience
level of the pilot is inversely proportional the number of toys in their
airplane."
The rub is here. Some people who don't fly enough to have the skills to
utilize all the toys they have in their plane. They paid a lot of money for
all these toys and because they justified buying them to enhance safety they
feel an obligation to use them. Operating the toys takes their mental
energy and
what suffers is their flying.
One close friend of mine in a high paying professional career.... bought
really nice multi-motor airplane and he loaded it up to the gills with magic
stuff. He was a good pilot and should have had no trouble flying the
machine. He was struggling with his new ride and wanted me to go out and
shoot some approaches with him. We got in the airplane and he turned on all
the magic stuff and was bragging about how it all worked. We went flying
and he was having a terrible time. I turned off all the magic and said,
"now, fly the airplane." He did fine.
This not only applies to aircraft equipment. All those gadgets that pilots
seem to love to buy, occupy your time and mental capacity too. Personally I
don't buy anything from the "famous hardware salesman in Ohio." No
altimeter bugs, no lighted knee boards, no battery powered altitude
alerters, no Westclox timers, none of that stuff. For a long time I was
opposed to moving maps on GPS's. I admit, I was wrong about that one. But,
you still have to turn it off and fly without it sometimes too!
I think that the LRI is a great tool. But in VFR we need to be looking out
the windows and in IFR the last thing we need is another gauge to scan. If
this gadget had an audible stall warning It would fill a more critical need.
The reason why the jets all have AOA is because they have less control
feedback and fly closer to the edge of the envelope. Normal jet aircraft
operations would equate to operating a RV out of a 600 to 800 ft strips all
the time. If that is your plan the LRI is for you. In the right hands I am
certain it can be used to fly an airplane to a higher performance level. I
don't think most of us have the need to fly our airplanes that close to the
edge.
Someone quoted a number of stall crashes on this thread. I would wager
1000's of them were caused by pilots flying the radar, the radio, or some
other gadget, instead of the airplane.
As usual, Standing by with the asbestos underwear!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
So,
How much for 3 inch & 12 inch tall numbers/letters?
How about small signs, like "no step" etc.?
jmw, RV4
From: RV6captain(at)aol.com [mailto:RV6captain(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vinyl
Anyone interested in custom vinal graphics can contact me personally. I'm
able
to create anything and I try to be 10% cheeper than everybody else.
Eli Lewis
Rv-6 Tail
Venice, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
>Someone quoted a number of stall crashes on this thread. I would wager
>1000's of them were caused by pilots flying the radar, the radio, or some
>other gadget, instead of the airplane.
>
>
>As usual, Standing by with the asbestos underwear!
Doug,
Don't need the asbestos, I think you are absolutely right! The only
"goodies" I have now are an electronic flight engineer so I can keep my head
out of the cockpit, and a big 5" GPS moving map so I can see where I am
quickly and get my eyeballs back outside.
Rob Acker (Leaning towards no Navaid, no LRI, no uEncoder, no gyros except
the T/C, less on the credit card, more $$$ to go flying and keep sharp).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
Doug,
I have to agree with you. My background: primarily a List Lurker, CFII,
currently a First Officer with a major airline, and have been flying for
about 23 years. The pilots I fly with who are involved in general aviation
are generally flying no-nonsense back-to-the -basics aircraft, ie, Cubs,
VFR-only aircraft. The common comment I hear is that it's too much work to
stay proficient with all of the gadgets when flying only 25-100 hours a
year.
I have been giving serious thought to ordering the LRI, but decided against
it. It does seem like an excellent instrument and does exactly what it
portends to do. I thought about all the aircraft models(over 60) I have
flown and tried to put that instrument into different aircraft and different
flight scenarios. I came up with the realization that I can recognize an
impending stall (3 out of 4 times:)) and I always review the V-speeds for
that particular aircraft prior to flying (as well as having written them
down). I will not be flying my -6 into any runway where I need the absolute
best performance from the aircraft that is available.
As an instructor, my words of wisdom to those who consider getting this or
any other instrument: learn everything about it before getting into the
airplane and learn when it will be needed. When we first got TCAS on our
aircraft at the airline, whenever we got a traffic alert, the first place we
looked was at the box on the instrument panel, instead of scanning outside
looking for the traffic, which generally was within 2-3 nm and less than
1000' vertically from us. We had to learn to scan the TCAS occasionally
prior to the alert, so we were ready for the alert if it happened.
Someone had made a statement about the "big boys" having AOA on board. I
have flown the 727, DC-9 and now the 737 (including the Next Generation
models) and those aircraft don't have AOA indicators. Some aircraft had a
Fast/Slow indicator, which very few people use. I fly by the required
airspeed for the flight situation I'm in. Knowing the speed, power setting,
and the rate of descent required to maintain the glideslope is what helps
the pilot best fly an ILS to minimums in a transport-category aircraft.
Sorry for the long post. (And off the soapbox.)
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Why I want an LRI. By Al |
Well I see we have started another one of those little threads where we all
have an opinion. I thought this might be a good time to express my reasons
for wanting this particular little instrument. (The LRI model)
Like with all avionics and instruments, we have CHOICES. We can have a
panel that looks like it belongs in a Pietenpole or an F-18. Most of us
wouldn't know what to do with either of those so we buy software to design
what we THINK we will need for our particular RV. I look at some of this
stuff like I look at mouse traps. I can buy the one with the spring and
neck snapper and Wham!!! job done! Or I can buy the one that captures the
mouse through some sort of deceit or electronic hypnosis and weighs the
little bugger to determine if it's a mouse or a rat (or a really big
cockroach) and then straps it to a chair where it first lights a red panel
mounted diode (per Electric Bob's recommendation!) indicating it's armed,
then say's in a computer voice, "Die (rat, mouse, big cockroach!) depending
on how much it weighed before giving it 14.7 volts directly off the
alternator!
What I am trying to say here is that this particular instrument has a probe
out under the wing, day and night, flying or in the hanger, under sunshine
or in ice (If I choose the heater option!) to tell me what's going on
under there if I CHOOSE TO LOOK AT THE GAUGE! Personally, I DON'T WANT
something beeping or saying to me, "Hey idiot, your gonna crash unless you
[choose one] (lower the nose, level the wings, or add power!) and get us
BOTH broken!" Especially when I least want to hear it when I'm landing at
some small mountain strip and I'm a couple hundred feet off the ground! I
in a while to see if I got him! That is why I chose this instrument. I hope
to just naturally include it in my scan when I get my RV-6 flying until I
can "feel" the plane in those situations where I would look at the LRI more
intently than before. After you fly a particular plane or drive a
particular car you can guess at your speed pretty accurately without
looking at the ASI or speedo. You get a "feel" for the vehicle. I hope to
get a better "feel" for MY plane in those conditions with this instrument!
I don't want a bright noisy high tech do-dad that's gonna talk to me or
whistle at my wife. I am hoping that this will be an adequate replacement
for a stall warning device in MY plane. Okay I know most (if not all) of
this is heresy since we as pilots are supposed to love gizmos, But I like
to think if I was ever one of those brave pilots who flew in Nam that I too
would have turned off all those fancy, screaming, flashing gizmos so I
could concentrate on flying the plane and being tuned to my surroundings
instead of experiencing information overload before a SAM gave me rectal
exam just like the instrument told me it was going too!
I KNOW there are better (and more expensive) AOA units out there, but this
one looks right for me. Simple and to the point!
Thank you for your interest. AL (And still taking orders!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot III |
Charles . . . www.infoequipt.com and www.pilotgear.com.
From: charles young <charles(at)onramp.net>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Palm Pilot III
>
>Try looking at the 3Com Web Site (www.palm.com) I would like to know about
>this one too, I use my Palm Pilot daily.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | Too many Toys, was LRI |
i tend to agree with the your general thrust, but i think an AOA indicator
pilot to keep his scan outside the cockpit during a visual approach. because
the indicator is mounted above the glareshield, the pilot can continually
look outside, checking centerline and glidepath. a well-designed indicator
can be viewed with peripheral vision, so the pilot never needs to look
inside. just get your line up with aileron and rudder, use the elevator to
keep the proper AOA, and use power to control rate of descent. (if you want
look inside to cross-check altimeter, power, etc. that's your choice.)
if i had to make an engine-out landing i would really want one. since power
is no longer an option, i would adjust the nose attitude and "fly the donut"
(the indicators i have used had a yellow circle in the middle to indicate
on-speed, with red chevrons to tell you that your AOA is too high and that
you need to lower the nose, and green chevrons if you need to raise the
nose) and be able to concentrate at my intended point of landing, without
worrying about stall speed. if "the donut" said, "you will not make that
field, you must fly into the treetops" i think i would follow the donut(if i
knew it was well calibrated of course). if my ASI had said the same thing, i
might be tempted to respond "well, lets trade a few knots for a little extra
glide, since there's always a fudge factor in there." that's when 3 knots
slow becomes 5 then 15 and things go from bad to worse.
bottom line, if the thing is properly calibrated, the display is designed
right, and you know how to use it, an AOA indicator should not be a
hindrance. a lot of the gadgets out there do nothing but increase pilot
workload (as you point out), but i don't think an AOA indicator has to be
one of them.
louis cappucci
rv-6a-qb
mamaroneck, ny
>
> Editorial Starts here: (you're not gonna like this Al)
>
> I believe that if you can figure out a way to put a switch, a light, a
> gage,
> or a bell, on anything you can sell it to a pilot!
>
...
> I think that the LRI is a great tool. But in VFR we need to be looking out
> the windows and in IFR the last thing we need is another gauge to scan. If
> this gadget had an audible stall warning It would fill a more critical
> need.
> The reason why the jets all have AOA is because they have less control
> feedback and fly closer to the edge of the envelope. Normal jet aircraft
> operations would equate to operating a RV out of a 600 to 800 ft strips
> all
> the time. If that is your plan the LRI is for you. In the right hands I
> am
> certain it can be used to fly an airplane to a higher performance level.
> I
> don't think most of us have the need to fly our airplanes that close to
> the
> edge.
>
> Someone quoted a number of stall crashes on this thread. I would wager
> 1000's of them were caused by pilots flying the radar, the radio, or some
> other gadget, instead of the airplane.
>
>
> As usual, Standing by with the asbestos underwear!
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Why I want an LRI. By Al |
Read Duain Cole's book "Happy Flying", it's worth it.
jmw, RV4
From: Al Mojzisik [mailto:prober(at)iwaynet.net]
Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 1:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Why I want an LRI. By Al
Well I see we have started another one of those little threads where we all
have an opinion. I thought this might be a good time to express my reasons
for wanting this particular little instrument. (The LRI model)
Like with all avionics and instruments, we have CHOICES. We can have a
panel that looks like it belongs in a Pietenpole or an F-18. Most of us
wouldn't know what to do with either of those so we buy software to design
what we THINK we will need for our particular RV. I look at some of this
stuff like I look at mouse traps. I can buy the one with the spring and
neck snapper and Wham!!! job done! Or I can buy the one that captures the
mouse through some sort of deceit or electronic hypnosis and weighs the
little bugger to determine if it's a mouse or a rat (or a really big
cockroach) and then straps it to a chair where it first lights a red panel
mounted diode (per Electric Bob's recommendation!) indicating it's armed,
then say's in a computer voice, "Die (rat, mouse, big cockroach!) depending
on how much it weighed before giving it 14.7 volts directly off the
alternator!
What I am trying to say here is that this particular instrument has a probe
out under the wing, day and night, flying or in the hanger, under sunshine
or in ice (If I choose the heater option!) to tell me what's going on
under there if I CHOOSE TO LOOK AT THE GAUGE! Personally, I DON'T WANT
something beeping or saying to me, "Hey idiot, your gonna crash unless you
[choose one] (lower the nose, level the wings, or add power!) and get us
BOTH broken!" Especially when I least want to hear it when I'm landing at
some small mountain strip and I'm a couple hundred feet off the ground! I
in a while to see if I got him! That is why I chose this instrument. I hope
to just naturally include it in my scan when I get my RV-6 flying until I
can "feel" the plane in those situations where I would look at the LRI more
intently than before. After you fly a particular plane or drive a
particular car you can guess at your speed pretty accurately without
looking at the ASI or speedo. You get a "feel" for the vehicle. I hope to
get a better "feel" for MY plane in those conditions with this instrument!
I don't want a bright noisy high tech do-dad that's gonna talk to me or
whistle at my wife. I am hoping that this will be an adequate replacement
for a stall warning device in MY plane. Okay I know most (if not all) of
this is heresy since we as pilots are supposed to love gizmos, But I like
to think if I was ever one of those brave pilots who flew in Nam that I too
would have turned off all those fancy, screaming, flashing gizmos so I
could concentrate on flying the plane and being tuned to my surroundings
instead of experiencing information overload before a SAM gave me rectal
exam just like the instrument told me it was going too!
I KNOW there are better (and more expensive) AOA units out there, but this
one looks right for me. Simple and to the point!
Thank you for your interest. AL (And still taking
orders!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | New FAA N-number lookup |
A few months ago I created a utility that makes it easier to look for
available (unused) N-numbers. I started with the March '98 FAA database of
active and reserved n-nums, plugged it into Microsoft SQL Server, and wrote
a little Visual Basic app that did the queries.
Everything went fine, hundreds of people accessed the service, but recently
someone asked if the database was up to date. Well, it wasn't. So I
updated with the latest (October '98) FAA database and fixed some bugs that
no one cares about.
Why do you care? Well, there are 90 possible n-numbers of the form ???6RV.
In March, 22 were taken. Just 7 months later another 5 have been taken - a
22% increase. Total used n-nums went from 343,509 to 344,850, or a 0.4%
increase. (Marketing hype warning!) This can only mean that RV-6's are the
fastest growing portion of the new plane market!
Anyway, if anyone wants to see if their "cool" n-num has been stolen by some
other homebuilder, just send email to
Subj:
lookup ??6rv
lookup ???6a
lookup 777??
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
Maintainer Experimental Avionics mailing list
Send message to to join.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Why I want an LRI. By Al |
AL,
I'M INTERESTED IN THE LRI FOR MY RV8. CONTACT ME> TOM AT WFACT01(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harje <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
A
>Someone had made a statement about the "big boys" having AOA on board. I
>have flown the 727, DC-9 and now the 737 (including the Next Generation
>models) and those aircraft don't have AOA indicators. Some aircraft had a
>Fast/Slow indicator, which very few people use. I fly by the required
>airspeed for the flight situation I'm in. Knowing the speed, power setting,
>and the rate of descent required to maintain the glideslope is what helps
>the pilot best fly an ILS to minimums in a transport-category aircraft.
##As a retired "big boys", I would have welcomes an AOA on several time
in
the "big birds". Rarely, but there were times when the load was not as the
W&B indicated or the S/O copied the wrong weight and thereby the wrong
speeds. We were generally loaded to the max, that would have been a
comfort. For wind shear I used minimum figure Vref for "either" airspeed or
ground speed (off the INS), Why GS? it gave the airplane time to catch up
when the wind suddenly changed. But an AOA would have been a better
indicator during those approaches.
I would welcome an AOA instrument for my "little bird", just those odd
cases, engine loss, getting into a small field, density high, what ever.
The safety reports kind of indicate there is a need for some type of
improvement when it gets dicey. Couldn't hurt!
A Good Day To You!
Denny RV-6 Near done!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
Hello all; I am looking to purchase or trade for a oil sump for my 0-320
that will allow the carb. to clear my front training wheel. I currently
have a sump for the "B3B" which mounts the carb. at the bottom rear of
the sump ( would work for the RV-6). Any leads appreicated. Thanks, David
Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a aft mount sump not sure on the #'s but I will sell for 450.00
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alumi-prep/phosphoric acid |
Many common household (like 409) and industrial cleaners contain ammonia.
Ammonia causes hydrogen embrittlement in aluminum. I would guess that the
aircraft grade warning is a lawyer thing rather than a metallurgist thing.
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
Hampshire, IL
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alumi-prep/phosphoric acid
>
>
>
>Mills, Trevor R wrote:
>
>> I have been told that the Alumiprep I have been using is only phosphoric
>> acid with some added wetting agents. (dishwashing liquid)
>>
>> Can anyone confirm this for me, as I have a much cheaper source of
>> phosphoric acid,
>> If so the acid I have is labelled 81% food grade how much should I
>> dilute it ?
>
>Trevor,
>
>I also question the types of Alumi-prep. On the bottle of PPG prep it says
in the
>small print
>on the back of the bottle that it is not to be used on copper or silicone
based
>aluminum.
>That just about rule out 6061-T6 and 2024-T3. I used a aluminum cleaner by
Endura
>and
>found it to work rather well. I would be hesitant about a home grown
formula
>'cause I'm
>not an engineer. What is there in the cleaners that would hurt the aircraft
grade
>aluminum
>but not lower grades? Anyone out there know?
>
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
I received this from John today unsolicited and he said it was okay to
forward it to the list. AL
>Return-Path:
>From: "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
>To:
>Subject: LRI
>Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:33:51 -0700
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>
>Al, I just read your response re the LRI. I was up flying my RV-6A again
>this morning, and doing slow flight with tight turns at a speed I would
>never try without some idea of where I was in relation to stall. I've had
>eight flights with the LRI now, and I like it more and more all the
>time.Today I "caught" myself scanning it (it's on the glare shield so I can
>see it without "putting my head in the cockpit") rather than the ASI while
>on final in gusty conditions. This thing is bullet proof and about as
>basic as a string on a stick, but its operation is pretty sophisticated.
>You will not regret using one. RV-6A flying 3.5yrs +/-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV's in Hawaii |
<< I understand there is also a rocket on Maui >>
Is this Russ Werner's? He used to be on the RV-List so search the archives
for his name. It may have been but better to check.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Caldwell" <thomasc(at)owc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot III |
You can read about some of the available progarms for the Palm Pilot in
December Plane and pilot. Also some of the web sights for the software are
listed at end of article, or
e-mail me I'll send it
Tom
From: charles young <charles(at)onramp.net>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Palm Pilot III
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Engine fuel priming; Yes or No? |
Listers,
The other day I was speaking with a fellow builder and he wanted to know whether
or not I had planned on installing an engine priming system. The thought had
never crossed my mind that I could get away without an engine primer. What do
you engine gurus think? The engine in question is a carburated O360-A1A.
Dennis Walsh, I understand that your 6A has no priming system. How well does it
start in the summer/winter?
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"RV-List: GEE, LET'S DO IT AGAIN!" (Nov 20, 6:50am)
| Subject: | Re: GEE, LET'S DO IT AGAIN! |
>
>GEE Listers that fund raiser was so much fun that I think we should do it
>again. Real soon! NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was really pleased to see that
>LOC Matt posted. WOW !~ That list was a virtual Who's Who of RVers. I have
>seen some of those names in some of the best aviation publications! What a
>community of builders to belong to.
>
>I really appreciated Matt's Kudos' however all the credit for my part goes
>to my wife. She's the one who can reach those buckles around back that let
>my arms loose! What a special gal! Seriously though she has put up with me
>spending more time than usual on this computer and I want to publicly thank
>her for that.
>
>I would like to make a suggestion however, rather than having List Fund
>Raisers several times a year that we consider having just one in November
>like we just did. YOU CAN STILL CONTRIBUTE at any time during the year but
>we will have a real push to get people to participate in November. If you
>contribute before that, your name will still appear on the LOC. Can you do
>that Matt?
This sounds like a great plan, Al. As you suggest, I will keep track
throughout the year of makes contributions and these will be included
with the yearly November LOC posting.
>
>I know that I feel really good about paying this contribution voluntarily.
>I think it shows a degree of trust in each other that runs throughout this
>list, indeed throughout most of the RV community! You guys and gals ARE a
>very special bunch of people. Thanks for putting up with me!
>
I heartly agree, Al!
And again, I'd like to thank everyone that has made a contribution this year!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
In earlier post my wording may have caused some confusion. I stated that I
had completely rebuilt the Chard built RV6 which I am flying. Rebuilt is
incorrect. This airplane has been completely refurbished as in NEW paint,
interior, engine, glass, ram induction with K&N filter ect.
Also to access my ad in classifieds2000 go to this URL
http://classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+181+R726374
For other photos & specs contact me off list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Brake return springs |
I just removed my 3 year old springs on my RV-6Q to find they measured 3
1/2 inches. I called Van's and they sent me 4 new ones post haste, no
charge. They measured 4 1/4 inches, and I think are supposed to be
stiffer as well.
Although I had not yet taxied, my brakes, with the old springs, dragged a
bit as I spun the jacked up wheel, both sides. I have not had it jacked
up since replacing the springs, but rolling the airplane seems to be clear
of any drag now.
I have a friend with an RV-6a that was built from a 4 3/4 yr old finishing
kit. Should he be worried about springs that are too short with that age
on the parts? Any response would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q about to taxi, (When it stops raining in Seattle
area...) next spring maybe!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
just removed my 3 year old springs on my RV-6Q
to find they measured 31/2 inches.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q about to taxi, (When it stops raining in Seattle
area...) next spring maybe!!!!
Ron,
Please tell me. What is an RV6Q ?
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
Dear Mr. Paulson,
Taking a ride with Mr. Stucklen in his RV-6 will be the last thing you do
before speaking with the nice ladies who take orders for airplane kits in
North Plains.
Welcome to the club.
Nick Knobil
RV-8 80549 (Wing Leading Edges)
Bowdoinham, Maine (Merrymeeting Field)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | LRI. Is it for you or I? |
I've been off-line for too long now, and I need to catch up (ketchup?) with
everything.
Rob: To answer your question about sensitivity of the RV to different flap
settings, density altitudes, and etc., here goes a try. As for flaps, it's
probably not very sensitive; the flaps are plain, and there's not a super
whoopy change in stall speeds or angles. Density altitude is a big one,
though. In the jets, we all have a thing called an AFM (Airplane Flight
Manual) which we are required by law (FAR) to look up all related airspeeds
for takeoff and landing. Those airspeeds are either manually input or
computer generated by the airplane and displayed as airspeed bugs (targets)
on the airspeed indicator. To get AFM performance (or better) you must fly
those speeds.
Here's one example where AOA type devices come in handy. You and a
full-size friend hop in your fully-fueled RV and takeoff from Hays, KS
(flat, long runway with lots of crosswind). Though you are a little over
gross, you decide to go out and do some minor acro to impress your friend,
but in your haste to get flying you forgot your handy-dandy stall speed
lookup chart. You were out (solo) the night before (with half tanks) and at
a 100 kts you pulled 2.9Gs to wax your friend flying a Warrior. So 100 kts,
2.9Gs (~400# heavier now), and the airplane departs in a stall (assuming
you've got the ball in the center). The AOA device would warn you before
this happened. Note: (John & Doug) I agree with the comments about an aural
warning out of the device being a good idea.
You then get on your merry way to Denver. The gross weight stall speeds you
have memorized over and over aren't quite right when you go to land in
Denver . . . every knot counts. The AOA system will show you the proper
1.3Vstall speed. After dropping the friend off, you decide to go further
into the mountains to enjoy the scenery on the way to Leadville, CO. (way up
there). If you use the speeds you did in Kansas, the runway distance is
going to be really loooooooonnnnnnggggggg. The AOA system will again show
you the proper 1.3Vstall speed. I have no doubt in the RV capabilities to
perform these missions.
The point with density altitude and runway lengths is this. I have no doubt
I can easily put a gross weight C172 in and out of our 2000' grass strip,
day and night in and out, but I fly the numbers. When I have friends out, I
know that my 55 KIAS on short final versus their 80 KIAS makes all the
difference!
Doug and Gary: What drives your stick shakers, stall warning systems, and
fast/slow indicators? . . . . ours (business jets) are driven by AOA. As
far as the jets being on the ragged edge to get maximum performance, this is
far from reality; AFMs include all kinds of FAA-imposed safety factors such
as actual test delay times plus one second for each additional decel device
on landing (other than brakes, but including TRs, boards, dumps, etc.) and
60% increase in landing distance just in case something unknown goes wrong.
Please e-mail me off-line as I'd like to know more.
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
writes:
<< I just removed my 3 year old springs on my RV-6Q to find they measured 3
1/2 inches. I called Van's and they sent me 4 new ones post haste, no
charge. They measured 4 1/4 inches, and I think are supposed to be
stiffer as well.
Although I had not yet taxied, my brakes, with the old springs, dragged a
bit as I spun the jacked up wheel, both sides. I have not had it jacked
up since replacing the springs, but rolling the airplane seems to be clear
of any drag now.
I have a friend with an RV-6a that was built from a 4 3/4 yr old finishing
kit. Should he be worried about springs that are too short with that age
on the parts? Any response would be appreciated. >>
Ron-
As I clearly stated in my earlier posts on this subject (following Belted Air
Power's original identification of this issue), there IS a problem with the
original springs that Cleveland supplied on our brake masters. Although all
the principals in this issue deny that defective springs were shipped, the
facts would not seem to bear this out. I think they subscribe to the Clinton
idea of conditional truth. After all, what does the word "spring" really
mean?
IMO it is vitally important to your and your airplane's health, that these
springs be correct. It is in the last RCH of travel that the master check
valve uncorks. If the brake drag is excessive and the taxi is long and fast
you can build up tremendous heat. As you have seen, the correct springs are
over 4" in length and should not "sack out" when properly installed.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Jim,
I think my editing of a previous post gave you an incorrect impression. I'm
in favor of AOA devices; I use them every day.
On the note about colors, we currently use a white arc from 1.3 to 1.2 Vs
(top of the white arc is Vref), a yellow arc from 1.2 to 1.1, and a red arc
from 1.1 down (top of the red is stick shaker). We are changing to put a
green mark at 1.3, remove the white and yellow arcs and leave the red arc
(JAA regulation).
Hope this clarifies my position,
Ron
Sr. Flight Test Engineer
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
What I have learned:
On the first start of the day it is almost impossible to start any piston
aircraft engine without prime by one method or another. The amount of prime
required is in direct ratio to the temperature of the engine.
The only way you can safely prime is with a priming system that puts fuel
directly into the cylinders. A couple of common ways to do this is either
with a hand primer or in the case of the RV's that have a boost pump
install a solenoid in the system so that priming can be done with a switch.
With carburated engines only three cylinders are normally primed the other
being used to give manifold pressure readings. On fuel injected engines
priming is accomplished by using the fuel injection system.
Many prime by pumping the throttle which causes the accelerator pump in the
carburator to squirt raw fuel into the venturi of carb. For me this is a no
no. If this is done without the engine being turned at the same time the
fuel runs down into the induction system and if the engine backfires you
have an instant fire(that you probably won't be aware of) which can only be
put out by continuing to crank the engine and hope it starts and sucks the
fire out or jump out with fire extinguisher in hand and prevent as much
damage as possible. In a warm climate where only a small amount of prime is
required and the engine is being turned quickly on the starter one would
probably get away with it, at least for awhile.
By using a proper priming system and getting used to the amount of prime
required the engine should start after a couple of blades with the starter
lasting many times longer as well as saving the battery. This combination
with no starts below say 35 degrees without preheating will keep your
engine a very happy and long lifed one.
Again not trying to tell you how to do it, but this is what has worked for
me.
Eustace Bowhay RV 6 Flying Starting fuselage for 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | j-channel stringers in fuselage qb6 |
I cannot seem to find anything in the qb6 plans about two apparent top skin
stringers between F606, 607, and 608. The 607 bulkhead is notched, and the
rivet pattern shows lines of rivets, but the plans and instructions do not
call out any specs on stringers that I can find. The Orndorff video just
mentions that the stringers are already in when he starts skinning the top.
I am assuming that these are j-channels like the bottom skin, but hesitate
to go on before confirming what goes there. Tried the archives, been
through the plans and instructions numberless times, but no luck, and I hate
easter egg hunting. I would much prefer to be building rather than
agonizing.
Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK qb6 top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine fuel priming; Yes or No? |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Gary;
Vans says they do not use primers on their airplanes and have had no
problems. They DO recommend a primer though if you live in very cold
(below freezing) climates, or will be flying in such often. I did not
install one on my RV-8 with 0-360-A1A, but then I live in Oregon where
temps are quite moderate year around. One thing about it, you can always
add one later.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Listers,
>
>The other day I was speaking with a fellow builder and he wanted to
>know whether
>or not I had planned on installing an engine priming system. The
>thought had
>never crossed my mind that I could get away without an engine primer.
>What do
>you engine gurus think? The engine in question is a carburated
>O360-A1A.
>
>Dennis Walsh, I understand that your 6A has no priming system. How
>well does it
>start in the summer/winter?
>
>Gary Zilik
>Pine Junction, CO
>RV-6A s/n 22993
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
I had an RV-4 with no primer for 2 years and 100 hours, never had a
problem starting within two or three blades on the first start of the
day, although I never flew with temps much below 40degrees or so. Like
Eustace says, you get used to your engine and after a while you know
exactly how many pumps to give it to start, without flooding. I might
mention to be sure you do not forget to drill a small drain hole in the
air cleaner box for excess fuel to drain out. . I believe Eustace lives
in Canada, so yes a primer would be a necessity there. I figure Vans
has more experience than anybody with the RV's, and if he says a primer
is not necessary unless you live in very cold climates, then I will go
along with that. Again, if I find later that I could use one, then I
will add one. Just another opinion, for what it is worth.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>What I have learned:
>
>On the first start of the day it is almost impossible to start any
>piston
>aircraft engine without prime by one method or another. The amount of
>prime
>required is in direct ratio to the temperature of the engine.
>
>The only way you can safely prime is with a priming system that puts
>fuel
>directly into the cylinders. A couple of common ways to do this is
>either
>with a hand primer or in the case of the RV's that have a boost pump
>install a solenoid in the system so that priming can be done with a
>switch.
>
>With carburated engines only three cylinders are normally primed the
>other
>being used to give manifold pressure readings. On fuel injected
>engines
>priming is accomplished by using the fuel injection system.
>
>Many prime by pumping the throttle which causes the accelerator pump
>in the
>carburator to squirt raw fuel into the venturi of carb. For me this is
>a no
>no. If this is done without the engine being turned at the same time
>the
>fuel runs down into the induction system and if the engine backfires
>you
>have an instant fire(that you probably won't be aware of) which can
>only be
>put out by continuing to crank the engine and hope it starts and sucks
>the
>fire out or jump out with fire extinguisher in hand and prevent as
>much
>damage as possible. In a warm climate where only a small amount of
>prime is
>required and the engine is being turned quickly on the starter one
>would
>probably get away with it, at least for awhile.
>
>By using a proper priming system and getting used to the amount of
>prime
>required the engine should start after a couple of blades with the
>starter
>lasting many times longer as well as saving the battery. This
>combination
>with no starts below say 35 degrees without preheating will keep your
>engine a very happy and long lifed one.
>
>Again not trying to tell you how to do it, but this is what has worked
>for
>me.
>
>
>Eustace Bowhay RV 6 Flying Starting fuselage for 6A
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bakerje(at)Juno.com (Jim Baker) |
Hello everyone,
My name is Jim Baker, I live in Klamath Falls, Oregon and I am building a
4. I have the tail and wings finished and am now waiting on the fuselage
kit. I started this project four years ago and having moved, built a
shop and with other things getting in the way of the important stuff,
(like building airplane parts), have dusted off my project and am ready
to get it together and do some serious building. I subscribed to the list
before but mostly just read what was going on and lurked in the
background. :-)
I have purchased a LOW FUEL SWITCH, (float type, found in Aircraft
Spruce), that I want to install in my RV-4 tank. Not sure if it would
matter left or right. What I need to know is how high in the end of the
tank should I put it to read about 5 to 6 gallons left??
I saw one drawn in one of the many papers I've seen on RV's but no
mention was made about said switch. Has anyone on this list used this
type of switch before?
jb
Jim & Elaine Baker
2934 Cortez Street
Klamath Falls, Oregon
pz 97601
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
<< I believe Eustace lives
in Canada, so yes a primer would be a necessity there. I figure Vans
has more experience than anybody with the RV's, and if he says a primer
is not necessary unless you live in very cold climates, then I will go
along with that. >>
Now now I know if vans told you it would be a good idea to jump off a bridge
you wouldnt. I hope! I think Eustace has a pretty valid point one of the best
I have heard to date on primer vs no primer. I would like to think its
something thats handy to have no mater where you live. Even if you live in Az
you never know when the time will come that you go to visit distant realative
in a cold weather state. These are cross country airplanes and believe me your
airplane will not act the same in a different climate and or altitude than it
will at home. Its an easy system to install and on one of those cold mornings
when your at some small town airport with no facilites for 15 miles and your a
thousand miles from home and your battery just barely turns the prop over
youll be glad you put aside that extra mornings time to put one on.
Ryan Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rivet gun weirdness |
G'day folks,
I've been having problems with my Avery 2X rivet gun recently, and
wonder what I need to do to correct it. It has become hesitant to start
when the trigger is pressed....sorta goes "phfffft" instead of banging
away happily like it used to. This happens most when placing a lot of
pressure on the gun while setting AN470-4 rivets. It doesn't improve
with a fresh application of oil either. Maybe it's gunked up inside?
Are these things difficult to disassemble and clean or repair?
Brian Denk
RV8 #379 starting fixed rudder pedal installation, and having nutplate
nightmares.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun weirdness |
Cannot imagine that you have used it so much as to gunk it up as you say. What
have encountered what you describe with a dry gun and with some of the CP
clones such as you have. Unfortunately rivet guns more than any other tool you
in the gun. Good luck. Rebuilt tools are available from Action Air. I have
from them with a great trigger. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: j-channel stringers in fuselage qb6 |
Gar Pessel wrote:
>
>
> I cannot seem to find anything in the qb6 plans about two apparent top skin
> stringers between F606, 607, and 608. The 607 bulkhead is notched, and the
> rivet pattern shows lines of rivets, but the plans and instructions do not
> call out any specs on stringers that I can find.
I looked through my slow build plans and could find nothing also. This
may be in the construction manual, or maybe it is just intuitive.
> The Orndorff video just
> mentions that the stringers are already in when he starts skinning the top.
> I am assuming that these are j-channels like the bottom skin, but hesitate
> to go on before confirming what goes there.
Yes! the stringers are j-channels just like the bottom and side skins.
There are two of them and they go from the f606 to f609 bulkhead. They
will only fit in one direction as the 607 and 608 bulkheads are notched
for them. I had to open up the notches a little bit to get them to fit
well. Rivet spacing is 1.25" just like the rest of the stringers.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 engine and other stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
Hi there,
I've been watching this thread with interest because it seemed the LRI device,
provided it has been installed and calibrated properly, takes out most of the
variables in calculating stall speeds at the various loads, bank angles etc.
As regards incorporating an audible signal, why not take a leaf from the
gliding fraternity ?
The differential pressure signal used to drive the display could be used to
generate an analogue electronic signal. As the signal approached the stall
end of the range, a variable tone, of increasing amplitude, would warn the
pilot of impending danger without him /her having to monitor the gauge. In
hardware terms, this adds up to no more than about three or four chips and a
differential pressure sensor.
I would be interested to know if anyone tries the idea out and how they get on
with it.
Tartan Special
G-RVEE, RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
having just completed an RV6a with a 1992 kit, I can confirm that we
encountered brake drag at the taxiing stage.
The factory pointed me to the master cylinders as being the most likely
culprit but suggested the geometry might be in question.
By the sound of it, I would benifit from replacing the return springs.
G-RVEE, RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: j-channel stringers in fuselage qb6 |
>From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Gar Pessel wrote:
>>
>> I cannot seem to find anything in the qb6 plans about two apparent top skin
>> stringers between F606, 607, and 608. The 607 bulkhead is notched, and the
>> rivet pattern shows lines of rivets, but the plans and instructions do not
>> call out any specs on stringers that I can find.
>
>I looked through my slow build plans and could find nothing also. This
>may be in the construction manual, or maybe it is just intuitive.
They are shown quite clearly on sheet 24 of my slow build plans (the
preview set) This is the sheet showing the bulkhead dimensions.
Gil (it's usually in the plans...:^) Alexander
RV6A, s/n 20701, canopy trim strips and tail fiberglas...
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | LRI Talk for Doug. Here we go! |
>Return-Path:
>Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:27:00 -0600
>From: "William R. Geipel" <czech6(at)win.bright.net>
>Reply-To: czech6(at)win.bright.net
>To: Al Mojzisik
>Subject: [Fwd: LRI Talk]
>
>
>Message-ID: <365748A9.60689251(at)win.bright.net>
>Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:11:37 -0600
>From: "William R. Geipel" <czech6(at)win.bright.net>
>Reply-To: czech6(at)win.bright.net
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.06 [en] (Win95; U)
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To: dougr(at)petroblend.com
>CC: Jim Huntington
>Subject: LRI Talk
>
>Doug, In response to your article referencing
>the LRI.
>
>I agree that some people buy to many toys.
>But I disagree with a couple of your
>statements. First, Owning an LRI, I find that
>the sales pitch is not to make the airplane
>safer, but rather it is to make the pilot
>safer. And I don't care what the non aviator
>passengers think. Your hypothesis is not
>correct under most circumstances. The
>airplane I fly regularly has more gadgets
>than you or I could afford. What the pilot
>lacks, is the ability to prioritize the
>information that is available to them. Based
>on the conditions and the project at the
>present time, approach, cruise, takeoff or
>landing. All the gadgets have something for
>most situations. I do agree that you can
>become so task saturated that no matter what
>you have or turn off, you will simply stop
>flying the airplane, which by the way is why
>we are up here. The only memory item on my
>check list is to "Fly the Plane". As I said
>at the beginning, some people do by to many
>toys.
>Buying toys doesn't occupy your time and
>mental capacity. Used correctly they will
>remove some of the mental gymnastics you have
>to do. And when you are up to your ass in
>alligators, its hard to remember that your
>only job was to drain the swamp. Use the
>magic. Let it work for you. But, learn to
>fly, then learn what the magic can do for
>you.
>Why do you have to turn off the GPS? Are they
>going to stop producing or supporting them?
>Are the satilites all going to be shot down?
>(Well maybe that one isn't a good example).
>If you want to learn to navigate, plan a
>cross country at home with your E6-B and
>plotter, then go fly. See how close you can
>come to the GPS. Competition is good. But
>why turn it off?
>
>The LRI gets mounted on the glare shield for
>only one reason. When you are looking outside
>it is in your view. There are no numbers on
>it, so there is nothing to remember.
>Interpretation consists of simply not flying
>in the red. Hardly a mental challenge. It is
>more reliable and accurate than airspeed
>indicators.
>If it had an audible tone the only thing it
>would fill is the cockpit with noise and when
>I am bouncing around in moderate turbulence
>and shooting an approach down to 200 and 1/2.
>I, would poop my pants if it screamed at me.
>
>Modern jet aircraft use AOA to maximize the
>performance of the aircraft, whether you have
>bullets flying by the canopy or you are
>landing an airliner. Although, I don't no of
>any airliner that you can read AOA. (I do fly
>the most advanced airliner in the world.)
>
>The LRI will allow you to operate at the
>slowest possible, fully controllable
>airspeed, land in the shortest distance,
>takeoff in the shortest distance and never
>stall your airplane again. Unless you want
>to. It shows you exactly where "Behind the
>Power Curve" is. Just by using it under
>normal conditions, you will get more
>performance from your airplane and be safer
>doing it.
>
>I don't think most people fly their airplanes
>that close to the edge. I believe that people
>want to avoid the edge. That is why the LRI
>was built. That is why we fly by AOA not by
>the seat of our pants.
>
>So whether you are draining the swamp or the
>engine has stopped, (same thing in my book),
>and the only option is to land on a postage
>stamp, knowing how slow you can go would be
>of some importance. Remeber that all of the
>landing numbers in most POH are based on
>gross weight. If I am not at gross weight, I
>don't want to be carrying the extra speed.
>Typically when doing short field approaches
>using the LRI, I am 4-10 knots slower than
>the recommended book value. The manufacturers
>have insurnace and liability concerns. I,
>simply have to land on that stamp.
>
>The LRI is not a gadget. It is not something
>you need to learn to use, it is a very
>simple, intuitive piece of safety equipment.
>The more you use it the more you will get out
>of your airplane.
>
>Having said all of this, I do fly my personal
>airplane on the edge. But I like being there.
>I haven't lost a dog fight yet. I use the LRI
>to allow me to turn inside of my targets. I
>know exactly how much I can pull in the turn.
>I pull right to the "Zero Lift Reserve" white
>line on the gauge. If I don't pull to that
>point, I am not utilizing all of the lift my
>wing is producing. If I pull beyond that
>point, adios! and in to a stall, spin
>uglyness. All the while being pumped full of
>bullets by my buddy.
>
>You are right, its not for everybody. But I
>can't think of one good reason for everybody
>not to have one.
>
>None of this is personal so no asbestos
>underwear required. I enjoy talking about
>something that I truly believe in.
>
>For qualifications sake, I have 23,000 hrs in
>allot of airplanes from 60 knots to Mach 2.
>Which doesn't prove anything. I have flown
>with allot of high time bad pilots. I just
>know that the LRI is a great product. It
>will save many a-pilot from himself.
>
>The accidents mentioned, VFR in the pattern,
>base to final. " If I just bank a little bit
>more, a little more rudder, I won't over
>shoot."
>
>Thanks for your article. They are fun to read
>
>"There are 2 types of airplanes, Fighters &
>Targets. Choose."
>
>MD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | michael brown <browngalaxy(at)ezol.com> |
How do I check the archives???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
Thanks in advance.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun weirdness |
> I've been having problems with my Avery 2X rivet gun recently, and
> wonder what I need to do to correct it. It has become hesitant to start
> when the trigger is pressed....sorta goes "phfffft" instead of banging
> away happily like it used to. This happens most when placing a lot of
> pressure on the gun while setting AN470-4 rivets. It doesn't improve
> with a fresh application of oil either. Maybe it's gunked up inside?
> Are these things difficult to disassemble and clean or repair?
Brian,
I've driven about 12000 rivets with my US Industrial gun, and maybe about 3
or 4 times in the last five years it has also done that. Never did figure
out why, I just put a couple drops Marvel Mystery Oil into it, and it
seemed to clear up, although not necessarily right away. One possibility
is that the shank on your AN470-4 set is too long or short. Compare it to
other sets you have. The point is, my gun has worked properly long after
the first time it did it.
Alex P.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Alex,
Nothing is used to 'lock" the an "B" nuts. They are fine as thightened.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun weirdness |
Brian,
I have been in many rivet guns of different Mfg. and if you can build an RV
you should be able to disassemble and reassemble a rivet gun BLINDFOLDED! AL
>
>G'day folks,
>
>I've been having problems with my Avery 2X rivet gun recently, and
>wonder what I need to do to correct it. It has become hesitant to start
>when the trigger is pressed....sorta goes "phfffft" instead of banging
>away happily like it used to. This happens most when placing a lot of
>pressure on the gun while setting AN470-4 rivets. It doesn't improve
>with a fresh application of oil either. Maybe it's gunked up inside?
>Are these things difficult to disassemble and clean or repair?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 #379 starting fixed rudder pedal installation, and having nutplate
>nightmares.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-4 N26FL severed its bonds today with terra firma ,me at the stick of
course. WE flew 1.7 hrs today , What a ride!!!!!!! I finally, after 8 yrs I
got my RV grin. Fred LaForge So Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 N26FL 1st flight |
"Paul J. Tidball" ,
Dave Hansen , bowsprit55(at)yahoo.com
Today, Fred LaForge, (Know to the RV-List as ferdfly(at)aol.com) made the
first flight in his RV-4. Fred flew out of our base at Cable Airport
in Upland, CA. (CCB) I few chase and had a hard time keeping up. I
had full power during climb out and Fred was pulling away at partial
power. My Hobbs read 1.0 hours at the end of the fight.
N26FL has a new 180 HP from Van's. Fred added Bendix FI, a Hartzell
Constant Speed Prop, and FULL inverted systems. Fred reported a
46-mph stall with a slight right heavy wing. I had full power at
about 6,000 feet yielding 81% power and 164 KTAS. Fred was pulling
away. It was a beautiful day in SOCAL with clear blue sky and
unlimited visibility. Fred did hit some turbulence that inverted the
airplane. Looked a lot like a roll but it WAS turbulence.
Second flight was in the afternoon after an inspection of the
airplane. Fred had a C-172 target airplane in the air with him on the
second flight. I would have been there if I did not have a prior
engagement.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
>
>
> What I have learned:
>
> On the first start of the day it is almost impossible to start any
piston
> aircraft engine without prime by one method or another. The amount
of prime
> required is in direct ratio to the temperature of the engine.
>
> The only way you can safely prime is with a priming system that puts
fuel
> directly into the cylinders. A couple of common ways to do this is
either
> with a hand primer or in the case of the RV's that have a boost pump
> install a solenoid in the system so that priming can be done with a
switch.
>
> With carburated engines only three cylinders are normally primed the
other
> being used to give manifold pressure readings. On fuel injected
engines
> priming is accomplished by using the fuel injection system.
>
> Many prime by pumping the throttle which causes the accelerator pump
in the
> carburator to squirt raw fuel into the venturi of carb. For me this
is a no
> no. If this is done without the engine being turned at the same time
the
> fuel runs down into the induction system and if the engine backfires
you
> have an instant fire(that you probably won't be aware of) which can
only be
> put out by continuing to crank the engine and hope it starts and
sucks the
> fire out or jump out with fire extinguisher in hand and prevent as
much
> damage as possible. In a warm climate where only a small amount of
prime is
> required and the engine is being turned quickly on the starter one
would
> probably get away with it, at least for awhile.
>
> By using a proper priming system and getting used to the amount of
prime
> required the engine should start after a couple of blades with the
starter
> lasting many times longer as well as saving the battery. This
combination
> with no starts below say 35 degrees without preheating will keep your
> engine a very happy and long lifed one.
>
> Again not trying to tell you how to do it, but this is what has
worked for
> me.
>
>
> Eustace Bowhay RV 6 Flying Starting fuselage for 6A
>
I learned to fly in South Western Pennsylvania and always used the
primer. After flying with Mike in Van's Blue -6, I learned about
pumping the throttle. It worked for Van so I was willing to try in on
my -6. I installed a primer in my -6 and have only used it once when
at CA20 (Eagle's Nest, Ione, CA USA) when it was 30 F outside. I
have been giving it one to three pumps of the throttle as Mike
recommended when cold. My O-320 usually starts in 3 blades.
I agree with Eustace that this is not a good procedure. Just because
it worked for me does not mean it will always work. Keeping the
throttle full close when cranking helps to suck fuel into the engine.
I learned this from hand propping C-65 Luscombe's. It will work on an
O-320 if the idle is set correctly.
When I was in A&P School, the teacher would go into orbit if a student
pumped the throttle trying to start the engine.
270 hours in 14 months with not backfire during start.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | PHOTO's PLANS FOR PLENUMS |
Hello, I searched the archives and found little to help with my search for
plans/photo's/ideas for construction an aluminum engine plenum for my RV-4.
Can someone(s) help with resources?
Sincerely,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
(650) 506-2740
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steven;B
FN:Steven B Janicki
ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
TITLE:Sr. Director
TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:http://www.oracle.com
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19981122T072630Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Interestate" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
| Subject: | Builders near Miami? |
Hello, we are two Dutch RV8 builders, visiting Miami Beach from Nov 25
till Dec 2
Are there ant RV builders in the neighbourhood willing to show us something?
We just started the Empennage so we are rookies.
Arnold de Brie
Chris Heijning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net> |
In keeping with several recent posts, I thought I'd
introduce myself briefly. I just moved to Bellevue, WA
(from Minneapolis, MN) and plan to get started on my RV-8 as
soon as I can find a garage to rent :) I currently own a
Piper Tomahawk hangared at Crest Airpark (where we're
looking for a house/hanger :), but there's not enough room
in the (open) hanger to work. I'm one of the partners in
Papa 51, Ltd. (www.thundermustang.com), and I'm looking
forward to building tailwheel time and aerobatics in my RV!
I'd be interested in assisting anyone in the Seattle area
with their RV-any.
I've enjoyed the list, and I'm looking forward to posting my
own challenges and triumphs!
Bill Lattimer
billla(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/21/98 9:47:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
browngalaxy(at)ezol.com writes:
<< How do I check the archives??? >>
Go to the following web site:
www.matronics.com
follow the links.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Talk for Doug. Here we go! |
Again, the real value in this medium, you have been offered two different
views. Both are correct and have merit based on experience. You decide.
In the process, remember the most important thing, "Fly The Airplane."
(anybody wanna take on that idea?)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Control Horn Hole |
Hi,
I couldn't find a satisfactory answer to this question in the archives,
maybe someone can help.
On the RV-6 plans, I cannot find a dimensioned location for the holes in
the elevator control horns where the elevator push-pull tube connects.
I see it illustrated on several plans but without dimesions.
Thanks
-Glenn Gordon
(Back to building after a long break during the home move)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Empenage/Wing Jig |
I was planning on building my empenage/wing jig today. Looking at the
preview plans I see an interior dimension of 111"-115" for the vertical
posts. Obviously, this dimension presents no problem for the HS and VS but
I was wondering about the wings. The preview plans are missing some
dimensions and I was wondering if any of you have recommendations for an
optimal ID between the verticals.
Thanks,
Vince
RV-8A tail feathers due in two days :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Horn Hole |
>
>Hi,
>
>I couldn't find a satisfactory answer to this question in the archives,
>maybe someone can help.
>
>On the RV-6 plans, I cannot find a dimensioned location for the holes in
>the elevator control horns where the elevator push-pull tube connects.
>I see it illustrated on several plans but without dimesions.
>
>Thanks
>-Glenn Gordon
>(Back to building after a long break during the home move)
You don't drill the hole in the elevator horn until you mount the
elevators on the horizontal stabilizer. Then, after you've lined up
the elevators with the horizontal stab, you drill the holes. You'll
likely find that the holes are not in the same relative position in
both horns. We are building airplanes from the same plans and kits
but individuals will certainly have some slight differences in
construction techniques and quality.
BTW, you're likely to find the horns are too far apart, too. Within
reason, that can be fixed by using washers or spacers between the
horns.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage/Wing Jig |
>I was planning on building my empenage/wing jig today. Looking at the
>preview plans I see an interior dimension of 111"-115" for the vertical
>posts. Obviously, this dimension presents no problem for the HS and VS but
>I was wondering about the wings. The preview plans are missing some
>dimensions and I was wondering if any of you have recommendations for an
>optimal ID between the verticals.
Hi Vince,
Geez, you haven't even received the first kit and already you're agonizing over
details. Welcome to the club :-)
The measurement for the vertical post separation can actually be a bit useless,
but it will put you in a workable range. When you hang the wings in the jig,
you're going to add horizontal arms to support the front and rear spars. The
important dimension is the distance between the two arms, not necessarily the
vertical posts. To accurately place the vertical posts, you need to decide what
material you're going to use for the arms, and whether you're going to put it on
the inside edges of the vertical posts, or the outside edges. If you put your
arms on the outside of the vertical posts, the post could get in your way
depending on the length of the arms, but it won't matter about the thickness of
your arm material, since the inside dimension will be the same as the outside
edges of the vertical posts. If you put the arms on the inside of the posts
like the book shows, your distance between the arms will vary with the thickness
of the material you use for the arms.
OK, I'm finally getting to the important stuff. The magic distance to shoot for
on the -8 wings is 109.75 to 111. If you get the arms spaced about 110.25,
you'll be a happy wing builder. FWIW, I agonized over this same point, and
still did it wrong :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
> . . . . . I believe Eustace lives
>in Canada, so yes a primer would be a necessity there. I figure Vans
>has more experience than anybody with the RV's, and if he says a primer
>is not necessary unless you live in very cold climates, then I will go
>along with that. Again, if I find later that I could use one, then I
>will add one.
There's another reason to consider having a primer. Years
ago, I suggested to my readers that a 4-port primer system
was not ulike the dribble-the-fuel-into-the-manifold
fuel injection systems. Further, I've read a dozen stories
over the past 40 years where a pilot was able to bring
a fuel starved airplane to a more graceful arrival by
stroking the primer pump.
I suggested an electric boost pump followed by a solenoid
primer valve followed by a needle valve to drive the 4-port
injection system. Then, do flight testing to set the needle
valve for best engine operation at medium manifold pressures
(18-20 In-Hg) and the mixture pulled to idle cutoff.
Should the normal fuel path become disabled or obstructed,
the primer system becomes an standy fuel delviery system
in addition to it's usefulness as an aid to starting. A
couple of years after I suggested this, one of my readers
flying a Long-Ez was able to make good use of this feature
when something broke in his carburetor.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
> having just completed an RV6a with a 1992 kit, I can confirm that we
> encountered brake drag at the taxiing stage.
>
> The factory pointed me to the master cylinders as being the most likely
> culprit but suggested the geometry might be in question.
>
> By the sound of it, I would benefit from replacing the return springs.
That's a good idea. I first became aware of this problem several
months ago as a result of list traffic regarding brake springs and brake
experiences, including a description of a brake that caught on fire. (I
don't recall if it was due to the master cylinder spring problem, but it
sure made me remember the whole topic).
The 2nd 1998 RVator had an article on "Dragging Brakes" (page 15).
The article says "The internet has recently been plagued with a great
many opinions about potential problems associated with the Parker
Hannifin (Cleveland) brake master cylinders. Rumors have been flying
about improper springs on master cylinders."
Many of us have discovered that the springs on our brakes were too
short, and/or not strong enough. The springs were so short/weak
that they wouldn't fully expand the cylinder after compression. The
RVator article implies that this may have been caused by compressing
the master cylinder completely with no fluid in it (NOW they tell me,
AFTER I've installed everything and pressed the pedals all the way to
ensure they didn't interfere with anything : ^ ) )
The test for proper spring length/strength is listed as: "The force
required to compress the spring to a height of 3" should be 8 pounds
+/- 10%. If this is not so, then they are not in tolerance and may create
a problem on brake release. As it turns out, the last .065" of travel of
the master cylinder shaft releases the pressure from the brake calipers.
Anything that would inhibit the last few thousandths of travel will
result in brake drag."
Thanks listers, for the "plague" of "rumors" that surfaced this very
real problem.
Tim Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
The recommended torque usually works.....I dont have the books to hand
but there are standard figures for AN fittings, you will need a torque
wrench and a crowfoot adapter to do it properly.
Sealants and thread lockers can shed particles into the fuel system
gumming up either your carbie or your injectors (which ever you use).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: AN fittings
Date: 21-11-98 20:31
What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
Thanks in advance.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
I have a primer, and find that unless the wx is really cold (say below 30)
that the engine starts easier using a combination of the two. Depending on
how cold the engine is, I'll give it a second or so of electric prime, and
one or two pumps of the throttle. I think the key thing here is NOT to pump
the throttle until the engine is cranking. Then give it a quick pump or two
and close the throttle. Don't stop cranking until the engine starts, or
you're sure the fuel has had time to get pulled into the cylinders.
I don't see any way that the fuel can migrate down out of the carb with four
huge pistons sucking away and the throttle closed, but I could be wrong.
Anyway, it works for me, and it's the way I've always started most
airplanes.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>> no. If this is done without the engine being turned at the same time the
>> fuel runs down into the induction system and if the engine backfires
>>you have an instant fire(that you probably won't be aware of) which can
>>only be put out by continuing to crank the engine and hope it starts and
>I learned to fly in South Western Pennsylvania and always used the
>primer. After flying with Mike in Van's Blue -6, I learned about
>pumping the throttle. It worked for Van so I was willing to try in on
>my -6. I installed a primer in my -6 and have only used it once when
>at CA20 (Eagle's Nest, Ione, CA USA) when it was 30 F outside. I
>have been giving it one to three pumps of the throttle as Mike
>recommended when cold. My O-320 usually starts in 3 blades.
>
>I agree with Eustace that this is not a good procedure. Just because
>it worked for me does not mean it will always work. Keeping the
>throttle full close when cranking helps to suck fuel into the engine.
>I learned this from hand propping C-65 Luscombe's. It will work on an
>O-320 if the idle is set correctly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
On Sun, 22 Nov 1998 12:31:22, you wrote:
>
>> . . . . . I believe Eustace lives
>>in Canada, so yes a primer would be a necessity there. I figure Vans
>>has more experience than anybody with the RV's, and if he says a primer
>>is not necessary unless you live in very cold climates, then I will go
>>along with that. Again, if I find later that I could use one, then I
>>will add one.
>
>
> There's another reason to consider having a primer. Years
> ago, I suggested to my readers that a 4-port primer system
> was not ulike the dribble-the-fuel-into-the-manifold
> fuel injection systems. Further, I've read a dozen stories
> over the past 40 years where a pilot was able to bring
> a fuel starved airplane to a more graceful arrival by
> stroking the primer pump.
>
> I suggested an electric boost pump followed by a solenoid
> primer valve followed by a needle valve to drive the 4-port
> injection system. Then, do flight testing to set the needle
> valve for best engine operation at medium manifold pressures
> (18-20 In-Hg) and the mixture pulled to idle cutoff.
>
> Should the normal fuel path become disabled or obstructed,
> the primer system becomes an standy fuel delviery system
> in addition to it's usefulness as an aid to starting. A
> couple of years after I suggested this, one of my readers
> flying a Long-Ez was able to make good use of this feature
> when something broke in his carburetor.
>
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < If you continue to do >
> < What you've always done >
> < You will continue to be >
> < What you've always been. >
> =================================
This is a great idea but how do you determine the manifold pressure
when you're using all 4 ports for fuel injection/primer?
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I am trying to decide whether to paint my RV-8 myself or not. My question
is; if I should later decide to have my aircraft judged at a fly-in, will
it count for anything whether I have painted the aircraft myself or not?
Do they have you fill out a form or something to determine how much of
the aircraft you actually did and then judge accordingly? Just
wondering.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint with or without Primer? |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
No, this is not another primer thread. I am just wondering if anyone has
used the technique in the manual that Vans used where they simply etched
and alodined the aluminum in preparation for paint and then skipped the
primer and applied the paint directly. I would like to use Dupont
Centauri as I have had good results in the past with it, but the
suppliers say you must use primer for proper adhesion. They also said
that I would use so much extra paint trying to cover the grey aluminum (I
am painting off-white), that it would weigh more in the end than just
applying a good white epoxy primer and then putting on a thin finish
coat. I have to admit this does make sense, but would like to know the
results and techniques of those of you who have done one or the other.
Also, I would like to apply a clear coat for good wear and high shine,
but this is adding even more weight. Should I or should I not? Thanks in
advance.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA(canopy done, starting cowling)
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | majordomo(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Majordomo: Request Results: Web Based List Subscription Request... |
>>>> subscribe rv-list
"subscribe rv-list rv-list(at)www.matronics.com"
The above request has been forwarded to the owner of the "rv-list" email
list for approval. If your request involved *subscribing* to an email list,
you will be notified by email when your subscription has been approved.
If your request involved UNsubscribing from an email list, you won't
be notified by email. Approval will generally take 24 to 72 hours.
Matt Dralle
C/O Majordomo
Matronics
dralle(at)matronics.com
>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | majordomo(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Majordomo: Request Results: Web Based List Subscription Request... |
>>>> subscribe rv-list
"subscribe rv-list rv-list(at)www.matronics.com"
The above request has been forwarded to the owner of the "rv-list" email
list for approval. If your request involved *subscribing* to an email list,
you will be notified by email when your subscription has been approved.
If your request involved UNsubscribing from an email list, you won't
be notified by email. Approval will generally take 24 to 72 hours.
Matt Dralle
C/O Majordomo
Matronics
dralle(at)matronics.com
>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Painting |
>
>I am trying to decide whether to paint my RV-8 myself or not. My question
>is; if I should later decide to have my aircraft judged at a fly-in, will
>it count for anything whether I have painted the aircraft myself or not?
>Do they have you fill out a form or something to determine how much of
>the aircraft you actually did and then judge accordingly? Just
>wondering.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
unfortunately, IMHO, the amount of work you personally perform on the
aircraft doesn't seem to count for that much. I've seen one
particular Lancair win at Arlington shortly after the owner told me of
all the work he had paid for on the aircraft. Paint, engine, panel
all contracted out.
Not fair to the rest of us, I think.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Listers:
On the last countersink for the rivets on the rear tip up bow in my canopy I went
it is up on the top where everyone will see it - gasp!!
Is there a way to fill a hole in Plexi-glass safely so I can re- countersink to
the correct depth. I was thinking of Epoxy resin because it cures almost clear.
Has anyone tried this or do I have to live with it?
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rivet gun weirdness |
| From: | bakerje(at)Juno.com (Jim Baker) |
I had a similar problem with my rivet gun not long after getting started
with my project. Turned out that when I put all my air line fitting
together I used teflon tape, when threading the fitting together it
caused small pieces of the teflon to come of and get blown into all the
tools that I hooked up to it. The rivet gun was the only one that
reacted like you described, I have a friend in the tool repair business
so I thought rather than damage my rivet gun I would take it to him to
clean. I watched, and now would do it myself if it happens again.
Jim & Elaine Baker
2934 Cortez Street
Klamath Falls, Oregon
pz 97601
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blair Amundsen" <amunbr(at)uleth.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Doug
You may be able to fill the hole with a plug of plexiglass and weld it it
with chloroform or mek and have the seam disappear. Be really cautions with
the solvent and try on a scrap. Would have to turn out a little washer or
something to match the countersunk hole out of your scrap or I have a bit of
plexiglas rod that might be compatible.
Blair Amundsen
Lethbridge Still oogling the rv-6 preliminary plan book but planning to
order next week.
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi-Glas OPPS!
>
>Listers:
>
>On the last countersink for the rivets on the rear tip up bow in my canopy
I went
weird and
>it is up on the top where everyone will see it - gasp!!
>
>Is there a way to fill a hole in Plexi-glass safely so I can re-
countersink to
>the correct depth. I was thinking of Epoxy resin because it cures almost
clear.
>Has anyone tried this or do I have to live with it?
>
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun weirdness |
You need to put a few drops of air tool oil or mystery oil in the gun
before you start everyday. I have been using air tools for over twenty
years and it really makes a difference.
>
>G'day folks,
>
>I've been having problems with my Avery 2X rivet gun recently, and
>wonder what I need to do to correct it. It has become hesitant to start
>when the trigger is pressed....sorta goes "phfffft" instead of banging
>away happily like it used to. This happens most when placing a lot of
>pressure on the gun while setting AN470-4 rivets. It doesn't improve
>with a fresh application of oil either. Maybe it's gunked up inside?
>Are these things difficult to disassemble and clean or repair?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 #379 starting fixed rudder pedal installation, and having nutplate
>nightmares.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
as long as the rivet has a good grip and holds well dont worry about the
cosmetics. No one will ever notice the condition. Chances are if you
put a fiberglass sash on the canopy and keep the canopy closed no one
will ever have an opportunity to see the flaw.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
Found the book:
For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a reference
book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig 6-25
p142.
Other fitting combinations have different values.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: AN fittings
Date: 22-11-98 14:22
The recommended torque usually works.....I dont have the books to hand
but there are standard figures for AN fittings, you will need a torque
wrench and a crowfoot adapter to do it properly.
Sealants and thread lockers can shed particles into the fuel system
gumming up either your carbie or your injectors (which ever you use).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: AN fittings
Date: 21-11-98 20:31
What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
Thanks in advance.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fla Man Killed in RV crash in MD |
The local West Palm Beach TV reported that Bill Knight had been killed in his
RV6 attempting to land last night in Maryland. Do any of you folks up there
have any more info? I had only recently heard that there was a new to our area
6 that was painted in Nigerian AF colors and was owned by Bill. He reportedly
just bought and converted the plane from a tipup to a slider and had started
flying it recently. I was trying to reach him to invite him to our TCAP RV
flyin.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/22/98 4:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com writes:
<<
Found the book:
For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a
reference
book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig
6-25
p142.
Other fitting combinations have different values.
>>
Inch pounds perhaps?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Painting |
>unfortunately, IMHO, the amount of work you personally perform on the
>aircraft doesn't seem to count for that much. I've seen one
>particular Lancair win at Arlington shortly after the owner told me of
>all the work he had paid for on the aircraft. Paint, engine, panel
>all contracted out.
>
>Not fair to the rest of us, I think.
>
>
I agree. Maybe it's time for a separate category at these fly-ins,
"homebuilt, and actually 100% built by the person flying it in." Some of
these "champions" are professionally finished and have terrible metal work,
but win as they look great on the "outside" and the judge isn't an expert on
RV's. How many of these "champions" are weighing in close to 1200 lbs?
FWIW, I have not, nor will I enter my RV in any contests. My RV is anything
but rough, but the reason that I built it is to get a high quality aircraft,
not a show stopper.
Off my soap box now.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Found the book:
> For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
> 1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
> 3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
> 1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
> 5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
> 3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
> 1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
> 5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
> 3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
> Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a reference
> book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig 6-25
> p142.
> Other fitting combinations have different values.
100 lbs pressure on a 5 foot long cheater bar to tighten a 3/4" fitting?
Could those #'s be inch lbs?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
When making flares be sure to deburr the tube outside and inside prior to
use some engine oil or fuel lube to ease the fit but still a proper flare
should need nothing more than the correct torque's as stated in another post.
If it leaks consider that it may be a bad flare, cracked flare, or is seated
JR, A&P, (JR = James Williams)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
Also if you are using an Ellison carb, you will need a primer because the
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Jig |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Listers in South Fl.
Anyone out there in need of an RV-8 Fuselage jig? I just pulled the Fuse.
out of mine and turned it right side up. This thing is cluttering up my
shop but I would rather see it go to a nice home than disassemble it.
E mail me direct at rvpilot(at)juno.com
Bill Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builders near Miami? |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hello Arnold & Chris,
Although Ft. Myers is not exactly "in the neighborhood" of Miami Beach,
it is at least in Florida. I am on the west coast of FL about a 3 hr.
drive away and can show you an RV-8 project that is at the" fuselage just
out of the jig" stage. Also could offer you a demo ride in a decent RV-4.
Bill Davis (941)-283-1614
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | AN fittings (Correction) |
Sorry,yes, inch pounds
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: AN fittings
Date: 22-11-98 19:08
In a message dated 11/22/98 4:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com writes:
<<
Found the book:
For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
1/8 20 to 25 in/lb
3/16 25 to 35 in/lb
1/4 40 to 65 in/lb
5/16 60 to 80 in/lb
3/8 75 to 125 in/lb
1/2 150 to 250 in/lb
5/8 200 to 350 in/lb
3/4 300 to 500 in/lb
Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a
reference
book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig
6-25
p142.
Other fitting combinations have different values.
>>
Inch pounds perhaps?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | RVs in Ricmond, VA? |
Hello all,
It's been about two months since my first flight in my RV-6 and am more
impressed with it every time I fly it. However, it looks like I'll be
probably moving to the Richmond,VA area next summer and was wondering if
there's much RV activity out there? I'm surrounded by RVs here even in
little Hanford, CA and would miss flying with other machines. If you have
any info, please feel free to email me directly.
Thanks,
Marcus
mcooper(at)cnetech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
Von, my cynical view after seeing the result at many shows is ...the one
with the flashest paint job and most expensive panel usually wins
regardless of workmanship. Especially at smaller shows and if the airplane
is new ie. it's first show. I have seen airplanes that were beautifully
built lose to a new airplane whose
workmanship was not a patch on the other but had a real flash, commercially
done, bog all the blemishes and bad rivetting, paint job. I like to see
good workmanship. This is not a view due to eating sour grapes, I was not
a contender at the shows. I bought my T18 as a wreck and rebuilt it, and
therefore I would never enter it as I wasnt the builder. Which brings up
another subject. People who enter their plane but had it built for them,
while registering it as though they built it. If they didn't build it, you
would think they would at least have the decency to not enter it or at
least not in their name.
It's just down right cheating on your friends to enter it. Down off my
soap box now, Cheers, Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Free RV6 Fuselage Jig |
Free to good home:
A straight wooden RV6(a) jig will become available around new years. My shop is
small so I can't store it. Near Kalamazoo Michigan.
Brian Eckstein
eckstein@net-link.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Painting |
Von,
Unfortunatly the term homebuilt has lost some of its
original meaning over the years. At least as far as judging
is concerned. It has become a fact that the one with the
most bucks invested wins. It does not matter if you built it
or if you painted it what so ever. If you want the satisfaction
that you painted it yourself, then by all means paint it! You
will then be in the .02 percent that has done this labor intensive
aspect of homebuilding. If you can afford it, you can have some
proffessional do the painting.
Stew Bergner RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint with or without Primer? |
Von,
Van has obviously had good results using the no primer
process. I used Veri prime and P P and G Delstar shot
with an hvlp on my RV4. The Delstar is simular to Centari.
I personally do not like clear coat because of the added
work to do touch up or paint repair later on. The Delstar
with hardener added has held up very well indeed! People
cannot believe it is not poly paint as it shines well. I also
painted my airplane dissassembled which makes it easier.
By using the hvlp I was able to use less paint. There is
very little overspray. I shot the whole airplane white as the
base color is white. This also brings out the true colors I used
for trim. Makes color matching easier later on if necessary.
Stew Bergner RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint with or without Primer? |
Von,
I have painted a "few" cars with Centauri and I have had the best results
even priming over old paint. Where I didn't do that is was more difficult
to cover and get the paint to flow right. (Usually wanted to run with no
primer) . I think that you have a really hard time getting everything to
look "even" without the primer. AL
>
>No, this is not another primer thread. I am just wondering if anyone has
>used the technique in the manual that Vans used where they simply etched
>and alodined the aluminum in preparation for paint and then skipped the
>primer and applied the paint directly. I would like to use Dupont
>Centauri as I have had good results in the past with it, but the
>suppliers say you must use primer for proper adhesion. They also said
>that I would use so much extra paint trying to cover the grey aluminum (I
>am painting off-white), that it would weigh more in the end than just
>applying a good white epoxy primer and then putting on a thin finish
>coat. I have to admit this does make sense, but would like to know the
>results and techniques of those of you who have done one or the other.
>Also, I would like to apply a clear coat for good wear and high shine,
>but this is adding even more weight. Should I or should I not? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA(canopy done, starting cowling)
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Painting |
How would they know unless you told them, or let the painter put a decal on
you plane.
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 3:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Painting
>
>I am trying to decide whether to paint my RV-8 myself or not. My question
>is; if I should later decide to have my aircraft judged at a fly-in, will
>it count for anything whether I have painted the aircraft myself or not?
>Do they have you fill out a form or something to determine how much of
>the aircraft you actually did and then judge accordingly? Just
>wondering.
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Use a bigger headed rivet. Some one will tell you the number.
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi-Glas OPPS!
>
>Listers:
>
>On the last countersink for the rivets on the rear tip up bow in my canopy
I went
weird and
>it is up on the top where everyone will see it - gasp!!
>
>Is there a way to fill a hole in Plexi-glass safely so I can re-
countersink to
>the correct depth. I was thinking of Epoxy resin because it cures almost
clear.
>Has anyone tried this or do I have to live with it?
>
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Doug,
Can't you make some "countersunk" aluminum washers to put under the rivet
head to raise it? Try to drill and dimple some thin sheet and use a hole
punch to knock out the whole dimple and hole. Then put as many of these as
you need under the rivet to raise it up. Just a thought. AL
>
>Listers:
>
>On the last countersink for the rivets on the rear tip up bow in my canopy
I went
weird and
>it is up on the top where everyone will see it - gasp!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing/ Empenage Jig |
Hi Guys,
I have just ordered my RV8 Empenage and wing kit!! :)
What i would like to do while the kit is in transit is get started on
building the empenage and wing jigs.
Are they the same as the RV4/6 jigs? and is there anywhere on the net that
outlines how to build them? As i would like to get stuck into acutally
buildinf the kit as soon as it arrives.
cheers
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Are you sure about those labels???? Should not it be Inch Pounds??? The
3/8" STEEL rod bolts in my engine were only 35 Ft-Lbs.!!
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com <Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 6:24 PM
Subject: Re[2]: RV-List: AN fittings
>
>
>Found the book:
>For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
>1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
>3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
>1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
>5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
>3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
>1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
>5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
>3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
>Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a
reference
>book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig
6-25
>p142.
>Other fitting combinations have different values.
>
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AN fittings
>Author: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com at fdinet
>Date: 22-11-98 14:22
>
>
>
> The recommended torque usually works.....I dont have the books to hand
> but there are standard figures for AN fittings, you will need a torque
> wrench and a crowfoot adapter to do it properly.
> Sealants and thread lockers can shed particles into the fuel system
> gumming up either your carbie or your injectors (which ever you use).
>
>
_________________________________
>Subject: RV-List: AN fittings
>Author: Alex Peterson at fdinet
>Date: 21-11-98 20:31
>
>
>
>What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
>fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Alex Peterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
This is WRONG. ALL the torque listing MUST be inch-pounds. Standard
Aircraft Handbook p 56
I REPEAT INCH-POUNDS
YOU will destroy your fittings using the listed WRONG label.
THINK INCH POUNDS....
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com <Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 6:24 PM
Subject: Re[2]: RV-List: AN fittings
>
>
>Found the book:
>For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
>1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
>3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
>1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
>5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
>3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
>1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
>5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
>3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
>Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a
reference
>book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig
6-25
>p142.
>Other fitting combinations have different values.
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AN fittings
>Author: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com at fdinet
>Date: 22-11-98 14:22
>
>
>
> The recommended torque usually works.....I dont have the books to hand
> but there are standard figures for AN fittings, you will need a torque
> wrench and a crowfoot adapter to do it properly.
> Sealants and thread lockers can shed particles into the fuel system
> gumming up either your carbie or your injectors (which ever you use).
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: RV-List: AN fittings
>Author: Alex Peterson at fdinet
>Date: 21-11-98 20:31
>
>
>
>What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
>fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Alex Peterson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Skin Intersection |
Hello,
Where the wing skins meet there is an overlap. The outboard is prepunched
but the inboard one is not. In short you can't see the rib much less the
centerline. I do not want to drill without knowing for sure the rib is
lined up.
If I follow the Orndoff video I wind up with two skins completely clecoed
and not being able to see the centerline. He doesn't show what he did in
the video to insure rib alignment.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Skin Splice Bevel? |
Hello,
My plans say/show to bevel the intersection of the top and bottom skins
where they intesect. Just how does one bevel aluminum? One piece skin is
almost starting to look easier.
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
Thanks to Allan for the torque specs - but, is that in. or ft. lb? The
numbers seem quite high.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fancy pro-built vs.homebuilt-was RV-8 paint |
I should stay out of this as I am in favor of allowing people to legally hire
when I took my little Fox to Oshkosh 96. After flying through horrible weather
considered it an honor to have been judged for having made the effort to get
there. My Fox is built to plans and simply painted on purpose to enhance the
classic look of yesterday's planes. Most planes from the 20's-40's had very
simple paint schemes. I also eschewed all gizmos, thick carpeting and a fancy
panel. Instead I chose to keep it simple and light befitting a simple VFR
flivver. The floorboards are varnished beautifully and the airplane is
finished painted-not just primed inside and out including the inside of the
fiberglass cowlings. It is very neat and pro looking and you can actually see
and said "you built this straight to the plans didn't you" and I proudly said
"yes." He turned and walked away and went over to another group of judges
nearby working towards my plane. They walked right on by and never even
looked. I was very upset and finally the next day complained so two judges
with noses upturned came by and gave the Fox a quick glance and signed my Prop
us will be impressed because we know that it is what's inside that counts and
my Fox on the Kitfox Builders home page under Where the Planes Are and then
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Interestingly enough, AC43.13A gives a different set of figures that
are somewhat higher in value, and with less tolerance. And yes they are
POUND INCH.
This is one case where a LUBRICATED (not dry) fit is needed to obtain
these torque values. The FAA recommends hydraulic fluid, but I would use a
small amount of Fuelube on the threads.
For AN-818 nuts and aluminium tube:
1/8 20 to 30 lb inch
3/16 25 to 35
1/4 50 to 65
5/16 70 to 90
3/8 110 to 130
1/2 230 to 260
... steel tubing gets much higher figures (the oil pressure line to the
governor on your Lycoming is the only RV application I can think of) so
don't forget to use this chart for that particular tube...
For AN-818 nuts and STEEL tube:
1/4 135 to 150 lb inch
5/16 170 to 200
3/8 270 to 300
Gil (isn't AC43.13A the bible?... after Bingelis, of course...:^) Alexander
>Found the book:
>For tube nuts and 6061/5052 aluminium tube:
>1/8 20 to 25 ft/lb
>3/16 25 to 35 ft/lb
>1/4 40 to 65 ft/lb
>5/16 60 to 80 ft/lb
>3/8 75 to 125 ft/lb
>1/2 150 to 250 ft/lb
>5/8 200 to 350 ft/lb
>3/4 300 to 500 ft/lb
>Hose couplings generally x1.5 but check to get the right values in a
reference
>book. This is out of the IAP Standard Aviation Maintainence Handbook, fig
6-25
>p142.
>Other fitting combinations have different values.
>
>What should one use, if anything, upon tightening the flare nut on AN tube
>fittings to lock the threads (e.g., fuel lines)?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Alex Peterson
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Doug,
>
> Can't you make some "countersunk" aluminum washers to put under the rivet
> head to raise it? Try to drill and dimple some thin sheet and use a hole
> punch to knock out the whole dimple and hole. Then put as many of these as
> you need under the rivet to raise it up. Just a thought. AL
>
Al - That's a good idea - except that the top of the hole is quite a bit larger
than the head of the rivet. Coned washers under the rivet would only serve to
raise a vertical column of metal/rivet and leave a groove around the rivet
assembly. I might just have to rivet low and then if it really bothers me then
either install a targa strip or fill the depression with a clear silicone.
I suppose that I'm the first one to pull a stunt like this.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
Doug,
Try to experiment with coned washers made like that out of aluminum in
different sizes and nest them and then put the rivet thru the middles and
set it and shave the rivet and washers and viola' it will be level. The
head will be larger, but it will be level. You can make coned washers of
several sizes so they nest enough to set them many different ways. Use the
Micro Stop Countersing and shaver bit to shave the rivet and washers if you
don't have a rivet shaver. AL
>
>
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Doug,
>>
>> Can't you make some "countersunk" aluminum washers to put under the rivet
>> head to raise it? Try to drill and dimple some thin sheet and use a hole
>> punch to knock out the whole dimple and hole. Then put as many of these as
>> you need under the rivet to raise it up. Just a thought. AL
>>
>
>Al - That's a good idea - except that the top of the hole is quite a bit
larger
>than the head of the rivet. Coned washers under the rivet would only
serve to
>raise a vertical column of metal/rivet and leave a groove around the rivet
>assembly. I might just have to rivet low and then if it really bothers me
then
>either install a targa strip or fill the depression with a clear silicone.
> I suppose that I'm the first one to pull a stunt like this.
>
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | AN fittings (Correction) |
Yes, sorry about that but I crossed the labels up.
A correction in in your mail.
I am too used to working with REALLY big bolts of late.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: AN fittings
Date: 22-11-98 19:09
Thanks to Allan for the torque specs - but, is that in. or ft. lb? The
numbers seem quite high.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
>
>
>Al - That's a good idea - except that the top of the hole is quite a bit larger
>than the head of the rivet. Coned washers under the rivet would only serve to
>raise a vertical column of metal/rivet and leave a groove around the rivet
>assembly. I might just have to rivet low and then if it really bothers me then
>either install a targa strip or fill the depression with a clear silicone.
> I suppose that I'm the first one to pull a stunt like this.
>
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
>
Believe me, I doubt you're the first to make that mistake. I know I
countersunk the rivets in the HS deeper than I should have.
Can you use a larger rivit to fill the hole? Granted, it will be
larger than the others but I doubt that anyone will ever notice it.
If that is the only mistake you make on your RV feel lucky.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Eric,
I just watched the 10 o'clock news. Bill's (William Knight aka
airshows1(at)msn.com) RV6 went into a canal about 2-3 miles short of his
destination runway in Maryland. The plane was said to have been seen
floating for a few minutes by a witness. The NTSB guy says that they
think it was a stall spin almost vertical entry into the canal. Bill was
mentioned by name. They found him still strapped into the plane. The
plane's log book was found in the plane. They showed it on tv.
The plane was shown being pulled out of the canal and resting on the
shore. I couldn't recognize it. Susan just called me into see the 11
o'clock news on a different station. The views of the plane are much
closer and the plane and it's paint scheme (airbeetle) were very clear.
This report stated that the possiblity of a health problem is being
investigated.
List members, Bill was Eric's hangermate. I had recently met Bill when 3
of us flew up to Lantana airport looking to drop in on Eric. Eric wasn't
there but we introduced ourselves to Bill. He spent time answering
questions for myself and 2 other builders.
Sadly
Charlie Kuss
RV8 wings
Boca Raton, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Priming |
> I don't see any way that the fuel can migrate down out of the carb with
four
> huge pistons sucking away and the throttle closed, but I could be wrong.
> Anyway, it works for me, and it's the way I've always started most
> airplanes.
The key here is that the throttle is closed - those four big pistons are
pulling mostly nothing precisely because the throttle is closed. It takes
a lot of air flow to move liquids up hill. Be very careful evaluating
things that seem to work most of the time. (Low probability) x (serious
consequences) = bad.
Alex P.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
> When making flares be sure to deburr the tube outside and inside prior to
> forming the flare.
Also don't forget to use oil - it makes for beautiful flares.
Alex P.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Gauge |
Listers,
My manifold pressure gauge is sticking after about five years of use.
I read somewhere that the line from the engine to the gauge should at some
point be lower that the inlet fitting to the gauge, and that a drain or
filter could be installed at this point to occassionally drain any moisture
that accumulates.
Has anyone tried this?
Thanks
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | An pipe fittings |
While we're on the subject of AN fittings, I'm getting ready to replace the
aluminum fittings in the engine that go to the oil cooler with steel. What
is the consensus on tightening these things? One of them is a straight
fitting and is easy to tighten. The other is a 45 degree elbow that has to
be oriented in the proper direction. So how tight is too tight, and how
loose it too loose? Naturally the proper feel comes when the elbow is
pointing 180 degrees away from where it needs to be, so should it be "too"
tight, or "too" loose?
Also, this thing is really tough to get at; a regular wrench doesn't have
enough throw (even flipping it over between "pulls") and I don't want to
bugger it up with jawed pliers. There are some marks on the original one
from doing that the first time. Any ideas? Thanks.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | New List Subscription Form! |
Dear Listers,
After a full weekend's work, I've come up with a really nice new List
Subscription web page. The page allows you to Subscribe, Unsubscribe,
and Search for your email address on any of the Email Lists. Subscribes
will still require Administrator Approval, but the page should really
go a long way to making the overall process much smoother for everyone.
The standard Majordomo email method is still available, but I strongly
recommend to everyone that they use the web page excluseivly.
I have also made some rather extensive modifications to the text trailer
appended to each of the messages posted to the List. I've added a number
of web site URLs that should answer many of the questions I seem to get
daily. I know the trailer is a little on the long side, but its great
reminder for everyone, and I filter it out before appending messages to
the Archive.
Please have a look at the new List Subscription Form and maybe see if
you can locate your address using the search capability. The URL for the
new Subscription Form is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
There are a few other permutations of the "subscribe" portion or the URL
that will work as well, for example "unsubscribe", "subscription", etc.
But these all take you to the same page, so just remember the URL shown
above.
Enjoy,
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
On Fri, 20 Nov 1998, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> I believe that if you can figure out a way to put a switch, a light, a gage,
> or a bell, on anything you can sell it to a pilot!
Not if he/she really thinks about it.
> I will hypothesize a theorem here, "The experience
> level of the pilot is inversely proportional the number of toys in their
> airplane."
My immediate reaction is, "I beg to differ." On the other hand, maybe I
am about to agree with you violently. I like functional goodies. I like
having a really good moving map and I really like my AFA AV-10 engine
monitor that gives me aural alerting of out-of-tolerance engine
parameters. Most seem to think these are gadgets but they reduce my
workload considerably.
> all these toys and because they justified buying them to enhance safety they
> feel an obligation to use them. Operating the toys takes their mental
> energy and what suffers is their flying.
Hmmm, sounds like they didn't bother to think things through. If it
increases the workload, you don't want it.
> No altimeter bugs, no lighted knee boards, no battery powered altitude
> alerters, no Westclox timers, none of that stuff. For a long time I was
> opposed to moving maps on GPS's. I admit, I was wrong about that one. But,
> you still have to turn it off and fly without it sometimes too!
You know, I find a knee board really useful for holding a pad of paper, a
pencil, the current chart, and the approach plate. I don't consider it a
gadget, more like a necessity in the RV-4 cockpit.
> I think that the LRI is a great tool. But in VFR we need to be looking out
> the windows and in IFR the last thing we need is another gauge to scan.
I don't think you are really thinking about this.
> If
> this gadget had an audible stall warning It would fill a more critical need.
Ahh, good point. My new AoA guage warns aurally if AoA exceeds a preset
value.
> The reason why the jets all have AOA is because they have less control
> feedback and fly closer to the edge of the envelope. Normal jet aircraft
> operations would equate to operating a RV out of a 600 to 800 ft strips all
> the time. If that is your plan the LRI is for you. In the right hands I am
> certain it can be used to fly an airplane to a higher performance level. I
> don't think most of us have the need to fly our airplanes that close to the
> edge.
I beg to differ with you here. On approach the jets don't operate any
closer to the edge of the envelope than we do with our RV's. The big
difference is that they operate over such a large weight range that the
proper speeds vary quite a bit. When your touch down speed is 120 kts,
carrying an extra 10 knots "for the kids" makes a big difference in the
landing roll. Sure you can calculate it, and the guys driving the heavies
do, but AoA always gives you the correct numbers without any calculation,
i.e. without any extra cockpit workload. Just always fly the airplane at
the same AoA for approach regardless of weight and you have optimized the
approach. Period.
Have you ever flown an aircraft with an AoA indicator? It completely
replaces the ASI during the approach. I was having coffee with an ex-Navy
pilot and now 747 driver last Friday when I mentioned that I am installing
an AoA indicator (not an LRI) in one of my aircraft. He said, and I
quote, "I had 200 hours before I learned that you can use an ASI during an
approach to landing." My father has a couple of 10's of thousands of
hours, many in jet fighters, and he swears by AoA. No, AoA is NOT a
gadget.
> Someone quoted a number of stall crashes on this thread. I would wager
> 1000's of them were caused by pilots flying the radar, the radio, or some
> other gadget, instead of the airplane.
They weren't flying AoA, that's for sure.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | prop bolt torque/landoll balancer |
G'Day to all,
I am in the process of doing an annual on RV4 and the A&P requires the prop
bolt torque for the Aymar-Demuth prop, and if any service/check is necessary
on the Landoll prop balancer. Could find nothing in the archives, and
neither company has E-mail or fax. Hope y'all can help.
Regards,
Ken Glover RV4- VH-MKW
Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Instruments |
I am sort of in a quandary about what to do about my engine's health
monitors. I want analog gauges for their simplicity and lower cost. At
first I was going to use the UMA line of instruments until I saw them at
Oshkosh and realized there was a reason for them being inexpensive.
Recent postings about UMA reliability cemented my choice not to use UMA.
Westach was another choice that went the same way as UMA. The Mitchell
1.5" modular instruments look great, but once you buy all the
instruments, senders, back plates and cluster housing the price goes sky
high.
The Mitchell line of 2.25" gauges looks good, but the ammeter is
internally shunted. How important/unimportant is an external shunt. The
CHT also uses a gasket type sender. Can this be modified to a bayonet
type?
The VDO line looks good also, but has the same problems as the Mitchell
listed above.
What do I do? I would like to use one brand of instruments so they all
look the same. If it wasn't for the list I would have blindly bought
internally shunted, gasket sender, UMA instruments and probably flown
happily ever after. The list opened my eyes to the different types of
instruments and also a lot of confusion.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 Engine Cowling - worried about instruments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Gauge |
Ken Hoshowski wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> My manifold pressure gauge is sticking after about five years of use.
> I read somewhere that the line from the engine to the gauge should at some
> point be lower that the inlet fitting to the gauge, and that a drain or
> filter could be installed at this point to occassionally drain any moisture
> that accumulates.
>
> Has anyone tried this?
>
> Thanks
> Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
> Salmon Arm B.C.
>
Hi Ken
How are you doing? I have had the same gauge and line on mine for ten
years and no problems. I used copper with a couple coils in it and
drilled a very small hole in the bottom at the lowest point in the line.
I was told this was standard procedure on some of the older aircraft
for years.
Now can someone tell me why I am getting oil in my tachometer? I assume
that
the seal must be bad at the tach drive at the engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint with or without Primer? |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Von,
> I have painted a "few" cars with Centauri and I have had the best results
> even priming over old paint. Where I didn't do that is was more difficult
> to cover and get the paint to flow right. (Usually wanted to run with no
> primer) . I think that you have a really hard time getting everything to
> look "even" without the primer. AL
>
Hay Al
Want to paint my 1967 Camaro?:) All the chrome, bumpers and grill are
off
just waiting for a painter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
Upon opening the Washington Post this morning, I regret to report the
following:
The Washington Post, Monday 23 Nov, reported the crash of an RV-6
outside Annapolis, Maryland which occurred Saturday night. The pilot
and sole occupany, who suffered fatal injuries, was reported as William
Gardner Knight, 56, of Delray Beach, FA.
The news article went on to state that he was found still strapped into
the seat of his small, custom-built plane described as a professionally
built aircraft, a Burgess, Model RV-6. Witnesses are reported as seeing
his plane nosedive into Beard Creek near the end of the runway. Knight
was described as an experienced pilot who had flown in air shows across
the country police said. The accident occured as he approached Lee
airport where he was scheduled to land, the airport has no tower, and
small planes fly in and out at all hours of the day and night.
That is the essence of the news report.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVs in Ricmond, VA? |
Marcus,
I can live in Northen VA north of Richmond. I can not speak for the
Richmond area, but there are a number of RVs in the Virginia and
Maryland area. I have just recently completed my Mazda Powered RV-6A,
still flying off the test program so am restricted to 50 NM radius of
Manassas Va Regional airport. If you head up this way give me a yell.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
(703) 902-7005 Work
(703) 759-6712 Home
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
> It's been about two months since my first flight in my RV-6 and am more
> impressed with it every time I fly it. However, it looks like I'll be
> probably moving to the Richmond,VA area next summer and was wondering if
> there's much RV activity out there? I'm surrounded by RVs here even in
> little Hanford, CA and would miss flying with other machines. If you have
> any info, please feel free to email me directly.
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> mcooper(at)cnetech.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PresleyTL(at)aol.com |
I will be in El Paso for a few days around Thanksgiving and would like to
hangar my RV-4. Can anyone from the local area suggest a good FBO at the
International Airport? Thanks for any responses.
Tim Presley
N64TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wing Skin Splice Bevel? |
I put the skin down on the workbench with the edge that needs beveling even
with the edge of the table. Then I took a file to the edge to get the bevel
I wanted. Then I smoothed out the file marks with 320 emery paper.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A F-675 top skin in place and looking sooooo nice
My plans say/show to bevel the intersection of the top and
bottom skins
where they intesect. Just how does one bevel aluminum?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
I have received firm orders for the LRI instrument from the following
people. If you want to order there is still time. Please contact me off
list at: prober(at)iwaynet.net
Dale Wotring Ridgefield, Wa.
R, Ernie Butcher Houston, Tx.
Cecil Hatfield Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Greg Phillips Waldorf, Md.
Tom Nguyen Friendwood, Tx.
Denny Harjehausen Lebanon, Or.
Dean Wheeler Lebanon, Or.
Curtis Hinkley Sterling, Va.
Sylvan Duford Bellvue, Wa.
Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, Tx.
Al Mojzisik Columbus, Oh.
If I am missing anyone please contact me via E-mail or at (614) 890-6301.
The order will go in soon, Thanks. AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 6:57 PM
Subject: Re[3]: RV-List: AN fittings
> This is one case where a LUBRICATED (not dry) fit is needed to obtain
>these torque values. The FAA recommends hydraulic fluid, but I would use a
>small amount of Fuelube on the threads.
>
When I was into auto restorations I learned that to correctly torque a
threaded fitting (bolt etc.) it should be lubricated - dry will give an
erroneous reading. this post is the only one I have seen addressing this
issue. What is correct - wet or dry when torquing?
Thanks
Larry McKee
Hanford, CA
Eschew obfuscation
RV-6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Too many Toys, was LRI |
I have also been following the AOA thread and agree with the following
points: AOA is a safety improvement, it should be mountable on the
glare-shield to keep the pilot's eyes outside and there needs to be a
voice warning system.
For above reasons my son and I are going with Proprietary Software
System's AOA Professional. Sport Aviation had an article on this system
earlier this year (May-98 I think). Proprietary Software Systems has a
web site at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LFrantz that is
worth checking out.
If there is interest, I will contact PSP regarding a volume/list
discount.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (N712CR reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing Skin Splice Bevel? |
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> I am sort of in a quandary about what to do about my engine's health
> monitors. I want analog gauges for their simplicity and lower cost. At
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A s/n 22993 Engine Cowling - worried about instruments
>
Gary I went through exactly the same dilema last week. I finally decided to go
with Grand Rapids
Engine Monitor. Total price with senders $700. I think Mitchell is the best of
the
low price units, however if you add up the prices of basic engine instruments and
single CHT/EGT it is more than the GR unit which offers many more features. The
GR
unit was also much cheaper than RMI system.
You can contact Grand Rapids Technologies at (616) 531-4893
Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wing Skin Splice Bevel? |
>Hello,
>
>My plans say/show to bevel the intersection of the top and bottom skins
>where they intesect. Just how does one bevel aluminum? One piece skin
is
>almost starting to look easier.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 Wings
>Moscow, ID USA
Vince,
It's actually quite easy and only takes a few minutes. I laid the skins
out on the work table, and simply filed the corners down with even file
strokes. You only have to remove a few thousandths of an inch of
material from the bottom of the outboard (top) skin, and the top of the
inboard (bottom) skin.I then dressed the edges again, as they became
rather sharp, maybe from taking off too much. Anyway, they lay down real
nice now on the completed wing. Make sure you apply primer along the
skin overlap in case water somehow seeps in there someday.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
beginning to see the bottom of the nutplate tray! *applause*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi-Glas OPPS! |
November 16, 1998 - November 23, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fw