RV-Archive.digest.vol-fy
November 29, 1998 - December 04, 1998
>Gary Zilik RV-6A
>
The air definitely has to be cooled down before the water will condense out
in the trap. I found that just a 25 foot coil of of 3/8 copper tubing
hanging on the wall ahead of the filter/water trap did the job. No ice
bucket required.. J&L has a good filter/trap for about $41 -- Order number
CHS-1491H (1-800-525-6817).
If I had it to do over I'd buy a more expensive two-stage compressor (Quincy
or equivalent). The intercooler between stages dumps lots of heat and most
of the water is trapped in the tank.
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport) |
Subject: | RV6A Nose Gear Service Bulletin |
Yesterday I pulled the nose gear from my 6A. I have a total time of 65
hours. First flight was in May, 1998. On close examination of the nose
gear, I found machining marks in exactly the position shown for crack
location as per the SB. I was able to blend the mark out and will be dye
checking shortly. It was worth the look.
I would also like to say that I have temperfoam seats. It is getting
cold here in Canada and yes they are hard at first but it doesn't take long
for the seats to soften up. I have given up the idea of making winter
seats as the temperfoam is working out just fine.
Dale Lamport
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
RV6A
#23861
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4
stick?
> Made by a company called Hyperion?
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
I think it's Infinity; look in Sport Aviation classifieds.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Appreciate the help.
I have no primer installed. There is no way, except past the needle that
fuel is getting to the carb. Need to research what carbs are recommended
for this engine. Also I figure that my problems could have something to
do with having a neoprene tipped needle and using autogas, although it
seems to me that if the needle swelled it would run leaner. Hmmm. Never
had any problems with autogas in my other plane (C-140 -steel needle)
even in hundreds of hours. Don't know if the second carb I tried had a
neoprene needle -it was a loaner and I didn't want to open it. I'll
spend the week doing research, checking float levels, etc. Mabye convert
the carb to a different (leaner) dash#.
thanks!
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Biddle" <dscottb(at)primenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pointer Phone Number |
-----Original Message-----
From: ERemmers(at)aol.com <ERemmers(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 5:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pointer Phone Number
>
>Need international phone (or fax) number for Pointer company (fabricating
>ELTs), maybe in Tempe, AZ.
>1-800-number doesn't work from here.
>Company is not in the yellow pages.
>Any ideas?
>
>Enno Remmers
>Cologne/Germany
>RV-8 empennage
>
For Pointer Inc. at
1027 N. Stadem Dr.
Tempe, AZ. 85281
The number is (602) 966-1674
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org> |
> HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A???
Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't they?
Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000. An
average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
[The Canard Aviators's Mailing list]
Tim,
sometimes ago, when I was preparing myself to assembly a Europa, I purchaise
two Trustmasters Sticks, of F15 model, thinking in the same of you. The
quality is really great, and in my mind we can use that devices without any
worry ( the sticks will not to demolish in our hands, in use..)
But, what a shame+ACE- When I decided to build a Cozy, the left seat stick
needs a left hand stick, and I couldn't find a trustmaster or
trustmaster like low price/righ quality) left hand stick....
Regards,
Romulo Augusto da Cruz, Jr., Lt, MD, Cozy Plans SN +ACM-0730
Office: Rua da Bahia 1345/1103 Lourdes, Status: started ch. 4
Belo Horizonte, MG , Brasil
Phones: 55-31-274-5667, 55-31-497-2080 , 55-31-9954-9478
Romulojr+AEA-brhs.com.br , Cozybuilder+AEA-yahoo.com
+AD4-
\
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/
For details on sponsors of this list, copyrights, and how to remove
yourself from this list, please visit:
http://www.canard.com/ca-ending.html
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-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 7:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: grips
>
>
> website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4
>stick?
>> Made by a company called Hyperion?
>> Thank-you,
>> Norman Hunger
>I think it's Infinity; look in Sport Aviation classifieds.
>
>Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
Hi listers,
I am just starting my 6A fuselage kit (have had it for approx. 6 weeks) and
I am noticing that the gear legs are already showing rust colors. What is
the best way to keep these in decent shape until I am ready for them??
Thanks
Rick in Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I use to come to this area awhile back. I would now like to get back in but
forgot the sequence and address's.
Could somebody please list the sequence again.
Thanks
John L. Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber |
<< How did Tracy Saylor (and others) make the round inlet ports on the front
of
the cowl? What size diameter can they be made at when using a sealed baffle
chamber? Is there a speed advantage to this system and would it be worth the
extra hassle to build? >>
The axisymmetric ports are availible from Sam James, whose phone number and
address can be found in the archives and maybe the Yeller Pages. Also, Steve
Barnhard used to offer them, and maybe still does. FYI, Sam's inlets are
fiberglass, Steves are/were aluminum. The basic routine was to fit your stock
cowling, then cut up the intake area and fit the round inlets.
The advantage is that a round inlet (or pipe, whatever) gives a better flow
rate per square inch of opening, so your inlets can be smaller. Also, anyone
who goes to the trouble to install these also installs a cooling plenum.
Between the two, you will cut your cooling drag compared to almost any stock
system.
I've been considering if I want to invest the extra time and money to go this
route on my bird. It makes me really uncomfortable to even consider cutting
on that expensive cowling (yes, I bought the upgrade).
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Just saw the $850 Microair in Kitplanes, December, page 111.
sales(at)microair.com.au.
Know nothing about it, neither for or against.
Finn
Joe Larson wrote:
>
> > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A???
>
> Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't they?
> Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000. An
> average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range.
>
> -Joe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
>
>
> > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A???
>
Speaking of radios, I've been meaning ask if anyone has tried the ICS PLUS
NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom from Wag Aero? The all-in-one unit
looks fairly decent and has a prewired harness and tray included. The unit
lists for $1450, and there are sometimes rebuilds available for $1176. Any
experience with this unit would be appreciated, I'm thinking of putting it
in my RV-3.
Sorry, didn't check the archives on this one.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (finishing spar mods on left wing)
Oldest "unfinished" RV in existence???????? :
)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
>Speaking of radios, I've been meaning ask if anyone has tried the ICS PLUS
>NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom from Wag Aero
Rob,
The archives have quite a bit on this radio, and I was seriously considering
installing one. Then I talked to the guys from Aerocomp at Oshkosh this
year.
They have several of them installed in thier factory demonstrators. Most of
them have been back to Wag Aero for service, each one took about 3-4 months
to get back, and several came back unrepaired. Not recommended.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV-6 into the sky.... |
Ronald Vandervort wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I just have to grin, excuse me...
>
> Today, I was finally able to find enough blue sky, here in Seattle area,
> for a 40 nminute initial flight. No surprises, it flew as advertised;
> delightfully so. What a "Kick in the pants."
>
> Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q Seattle area FLYING, FLYING.....FLYING!!!!!!!!!!
>
Congratulations Ron, be sure to be watching your six
Jerry Springer
RV-6 flying since 1989 HIllsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
"How much is a radio for a 6A?" Actually "radio companies" charge more for
radios in a 6A than for a plain old 6 or 4. I sometimes use smoke signals or a
can on a string--real cheap. Radio Shack has some nice walkie talkies. How's
about NO radio--very cheap and light? Couldn't resist so go ahead and flame
me. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Norman,
I'm unfamiliar with the Hyperion grips. You might want to check out the stick
grips from Infinity Aerospace; P.O. Box 12275; El Cajon, CA 92022; phone and FAX
(619) 448-5103; URL, as I recall, www.infaero.com. Infinity makes both left and
right hand grips.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> Hello, I'm seeking information on joystick grips. Was there one on Vans
> website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4 stick?
> Made by a company called Hyperion?
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A
> nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Primer questions. |
Hi All,
I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder
primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a
part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N. AN-800-2) I
bought these from A.S. they are made of Brass, how are these attached to
the primer line?On a friends 6A he used these but his came in stainless and
his lines are also stainless so he braised them on with some special
solder.What type of line should I use with these brass one's
(copper,alum,stainless) Maybe I should drop using these and go with copper
and auto type with compression sleeves.It's just that I would like to use
the AN-4022-1 discharge nipple on P106 because the discharge hole is very
small as compared with a auto type with compression sleeve is pretty
large.I think the very small hole will allow to create backpressure at the
nipple allowing the different lenght primer lines to fill and the end
result would be each cylinder receiving the same amount of prime.Any
Thoughts?
Thanks,John Hughes
RV-6 N164JH (reserved)
So Cal, Working on engine stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | new product - speed nuts for threaded rod |
RV-Listers,
I discovered a neat product made by Lee Valley Tools, a local company
that sells quality woodworking and gardening tools.
They make knurled brass nuts that have a second hole drilled through
them at a slight angle to the first. This allows the nuts to just
slide along a threaded rod if they are tipped slightly sideways.
Once they are in position against a leading edge rib, they stay in
position and hold the threads like a regular nut. The big advantage
is that if you use a threaded rod to hold leading edge ribs, you
don't have to turn each nut a gazillion times as you push the rod
through the ribs.
These things fit a 1/4-28 thread and are sold in packages of four for
$CDN 9.95 (that is about $US6.50). The part callout is 05F01.03
Speed Nuts. Two packages are enough to do wing leading edge ribs -
they won't quite replace every nut, but you can use them for the ones
that you would have to thread the longest distance.
Lee Valley takes mail orders at (613) 596-0350 or 1-800-267-8735
(USA) or 1-800-267-8761 (Canada). Web page http://www.leevalley.com
They ship US orders from a US warehouse, so you don't have to deal
with customs. They have great customer service - if you don't like a
product, they give a refund, no questions asked, including paying for
your return shipping.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rich Rich Rich |
In a message dated 11/27/98 8:54:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cgalley(at)accessus.net writes:
<< The old metal ones leaked and sank. The ADed plastic foam absorbs
gas and sinks as well. >>
Sounds like an Ellison TBI is in order.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "D Malott" <drmalott(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Wanted RV3 Project |
A friend of mine is looking for a RV3 project. If you have one or know
were one might be, please send information to drmalott(at)hotmail.com
Thanks
David Malott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Coleman" <david(at)coleman65.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Primer questions. |
Hi John,
I have pondered the same problem today, it appears that the copper tube
should be cleaned and fluxed, the union nut can then be slipped over the
tubing followed by the union cone. The cone and tube can then be heated and
solder melted around the joint.
David Coleman
RV-6 G-RVET
London , U.K
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hughes <jhughes@net-quest.com>
Date: 29 November 1998 22:23
Subject: RV-List: Primer questions.
>
>Hi All,
> I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder
>primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a
>part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N. AN-800-2) I
>bought these from A.S. they are made of Brass, how are these attached to
>the primer line?On a friends 6A he used these but his came in stainless and
>his lines are also stainless so he braised them on with some special
>solder.What type of line should I use with these brass one's
>(copper,alum,stainless) Maybe I should drop using these and go with copper
>and auto type with compression sleeves.It's just that I would like to use
>the AN-4022-1 discharge nipple on P106 because the discharge hole is very
>small as compared with a auto type with compression sleeve is pretty
>large.I think the very small hole will allow to create backpressure at the
>nipple allowing the different lenght primer lines to fill and the end
>result would be each cylinder receiving the same amount of prime.Any
>Thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks,John Hughes
> RV-6 N164JH (reserved)
> So Cal, Working on engine stuff.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Engine Primer questions. |
>I have pondered the same problem today, it appears that the copper tube
>should be cleaned and fluxed, the union nut can then be slipped over the
>tubing followed by the union cone. The cone and tube can then be heated and
>solder melted around the joint.
Yes. But "regular" solder is not sufficient. Use silver solder. Melts at a
higher temperature. Make certain the tubing opening or the fitting orifice
does not take the flux or solder. And be sure you put the nut on before all
this. You can thread it on afterwards from the other end, unless you already
have a fitting on or have flared the other end.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
Randy,
I have the Rochester electric engine instruments on my RV6. No problems
after 455 hours.
You are correct when you say "solidly built". Rochesters are heavy.
Gillette Charlie is using JPI digital instruments, eight total. I think all
of these eight gauges weigh about the same as one Rochester. These gauges
are expensive, as well, but when it comes to keeping an eye on engine
health, I don't mind spending a bit on instrumentation.
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I used Rochester gauges and am very happy with them so far.
>They are very solidly built. The CHT uses a bayonet probe.
>I also like the fact that the gauges already contained range
>markings for my Lycoming engine. Haven't flown yet, but
>I've seen many other RV's with the Rochester gauges.
>
> Once you get them all, they are pretty expensive though.
>The all in one electronic units may be the way to go if
>you have the $$$$. For me, this was one of those expensive
>options that I thought I could do without.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
>RV-6 - Cowling and Finishing Up
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
RVers,
Does anyone make epoxy/honeycomb wing tips (similar to the new cowls) for
the RV6? We're not interested in fuel holding ability---just something
lighter than the factory tips. It seems that the tips that Gillette Charlie
got with his kit are heavier than the ones on my six. They also seem to be
better made and are long enough.
Another question: Charlie mounted the outboard ribs a bit far out so we
don't have 1/2 inch for the mounting of the tips. I'm going to try & work
with the material I have left. My plan is to decrease the rivet spacing on
the pop rivets and to proseal the tips to the skin. What to do with the gap
that is left is the next problem. I would prefer not to grind the flange on
the tips down narrow enough to fit. I was thinking about removing the
gelcoat (Charlie's job as I think I'm now allergic to gelcoat dust, even
with a mask) down to bare fiberglass and filling the gap with epoxy and
glass. We'll probably bend down the edges of the skin and fiberglass over
on the wing skin after roughing the skin up and then sand everything down
flush. I talked Charlie into pop riveting the tips on as opposed to screws
and nut plates (which I have on my six) because I think the installation
will weigh less. Also, because of the overhang situation, installation of
nutplates is going to be a bit of a problem.
Thanks for any input you might have.
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder cable questions |
Glen & RVers,
For what it's worth, I didn't use the clamp or the plastic sleave
installed on the rudder cables. I cut the plastic sleave off. Then, I
slipped some split plastic sleaving that I bought from West marine. This
comes in 6 foot lengths and is split the whole length. I believe the
diameter of sleaving that I used was 5/16". The rudder cables are covered
with this plastic, front to rear. With this set up, you now have the
plastic sleaving gliding on the plastic snap bushings. This eleminates any
wear and the "sawing" noise reverberating in the tail cone. A much quieter
installation. I stole this idea from my friend Andy Bajc of Lincoln, NE who
built an award winning (S&F) RV4.
I used rudder cable fairings similar to Avery's and installed these with a
couple of screws. I ended the sheathing before the rudder cables exit the
fuselage. I put a tiny piece of UHMW tape where there was possible wear of
the rudder cables on the fuselage sides and have had no wear problems in 455
hours.
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I had some questions rearding exiting the rudder cables out of the rear
>of the fuselage.
>1. Ref. Dwg#34, lists a AN742-6C Clamp. Is this the old AN number for
>MS21919WDG6 cushioned clamp?
>3. Avery sells some aluminum rudder cable fairings. Anyone have any
>input on whether or not they should be used?
>-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: book "speed with economy" |
>BOB MY RV4 228 MPH SUN 100 RUNS VANS STOCK TO PLANS COOLING SYSTEM ONLY
>CHANGE WAS THE EXIT RAMP
TOM RV4 BOUNTY HUNTER
Tom,
We're going with the plenum, not so much because of a possible speed
advantage, but more from an ease of maintenance, installation and hopefully
fewer leaks point of view. Of course, it would be nice to gain speed but
since we're not testing "before and after", we'll never know.
I (and I assume other listers) would be very interested in more info about
your RV4.
Regards,
Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RV-6, DWG# 34
RE: Rudder Stops
________________________________________________________________________________
rudder stop would sit above the horizontal position of the rudder horns.
With this in mind, wouldn't the rudder stop only contact the rudder
horns at the diagonal portion on the R-405 Rudder horn?
Just checking before I start drilling holes in the side of the airplane.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Primer questions. |
John,
You can use silver solder for the fittings.
Ordinary solder is not reccomended.
Copper line is fine or stainless will work.
Compression fittings tend to weaken the
tube therefore aren't reccomended.
Stew Bergner RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
Joe Larson wrote:
>
> > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A???
>
> Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't
> they?
> Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000.
> An
> average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range.
>
> -Joe
If you are asking how much an inexpesive radio would cost , then Val
Avionics Ltd. have a Com 760 with 'flip flop' for $690 sold by Chief
Aircraft[per Trade A Plane] .Friend of mine had one in his RV6 and was
very happy with it.
Derek Reed
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> +--------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------
> List Support Contributions:
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Trustmaster Sticks |
Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half the
price of Infinity sticks?
Norman Hunger
RV6A
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RADIO-on a serious note-YAESU |
I saw an advertisement for the YAESU super small handheld radio in the AOPA
Pilot. I was wondering if anyone has gotten one of those. I have an old Icom
that has been faithful and true but that Yaesu sure is a tiny thing--half the
size of the smallest Icom. I bet it will work a lot better than a "can on a
string" and a lot more range too. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trustmaster Sticks |
Thrustmaster is a game/sim computer interface. I haven't heard of Infinity.
Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 9:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trustmaster Sticks
>
>Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half
the
>price of Infinity sticks?
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A
>nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
I would just use use emery cloth to buff off the rust,clean with
acetone or enamel reducer then coat the entire structure with LPS 30
until you get ready to prime.[Be sure and clean off all LPS before you
spray your primer.] You could also use an conversion coating to prep
the the metal, and prime with any type primer {Marhyde,Rust-oleum} the
choice is yours, the objective is to have clean steel to prime.
Chris Santschi.
8 Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: new product - speed nuts for threaded rod |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> RV-Listers,
>
> ****snip****
> They make knurled brass nuts that have a second hole drilled through
> them at a slight angle to the first. This allows the nuts to just
> slide along a threaded rod if they are tipped slightly sideways.
> Once they are in position against a leading edge rib, they stay in
> position and hold the threads like a regular nut. The big advantage
> is that if you use a threaded rod to hold leading edge ribs, you
> don't have to turn each nut a gazillion times as you push the rod
> through the ribs.
>
>****snip****
RV'ers
Here's another way to do those leading edge skins that an Oklahoma RV4
builder told me about. I did the "turn the nut a gazillion times"
thing, but I think this new method would be a lot faster. He took some
automotive rubber hose, like vacum line or possibly fuel line and cut it
into pieces about one inch long. Then slit each piece end to end. Put
the threaded rod in place and put a piece of slitted hose on each side
of a nose rib. Take a nylon tie and cinch it up tight on the hose.
These pieces of hose can now be turned like a nut and will actually get
tight against the rib. They act just like nuts but are faster to use!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming |
Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC
I recieved one of the initial props in mid July and currently have 70
Hours on the aircraft. I have been very pleased with its performance.
The Cruise performance tracks quite well with Sensenich's data.
Additionally, the A/C CG with this prop worked out very well giving me
approx 70 Lb baggage capacity with 2-200 Lb pilots and a 1750 gross.
The data below was taken in August and September during rather warm
weather. My RV is pure stock with standard cowling, wheel pants etc.
However, I don't yet have gear leg intersection fairings installed.
Since the cold weather has set in the climb performance has drastically
improved. The prop remains very well matched to the engine and
airframe, almost always showing near 2700 RPM at full throttle in
cruise.
Climb performance data: from 2000 to 2500 MSL
A/C Weight 1680 1666 1666 1400 1430
Alt. Setting 30.12 29.95 29.93 29.89
Temperature 81 88F 74 76 72
A/C Speed Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min
70 MPH 984 1429
80 1132 1053 1500
90 1304 1333 1714 1622
100 1200 1224 1500 1667
110 1277 1765 1714
120 1200 1667
130 1538
TAS Cruise performance measured in two directions with GPS. Directions
were mostly into and down wind per the local Wx winds aloft forcast.
RPM Alt Alt Alt Alt
5500 6500 7500 9500
1900 135
2000 144
2100 145 163 151
2200 158 170 163 161
2300 166 172 170 166
2400 173 181 172 178
2500 185 187 181 185
2600 193 196 187 192
2700 204 196 198
Hope this provides some info to help new builders make the difficult
choices on prop selection.
Regards
Tom Olson N298TC
tcolson@cedar-rapids.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Subject: | Rigging Elevators |
Seems like a stupid question even for me as I'm typing. When measuring the
travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees for
example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of the
elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90 degrees to
horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this???
Bill Pagan
web page updated
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Subject: | Wanted RV3 Project |
David-
Sorry, forgot to mention that you or your friend can reach me at (505)
835-3644 anytime in the evenings if you want to talk about John Hosack's
project.
Rob Reece
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of D Malott
> Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 2:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wanted RV3 Project
>
>
> A friend of mine is looking for a RV3 project. If you have one or know
> were one might be, please send information to drmalott(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks
> David Malott
>
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: new product - speed nuts for threaded rod |
Another method that worked for me...
As you thread thru the rod, put on your washer and nut then attach a spring
clamp to the nut. The weight of the clamp will keep the nut from turning.
Use your drill to speed the rod thru all the ribs.
Quick and easy.
Larry Olson
RV6 N606RV - Waiting on Fuse
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops |
>RV-6, DWG# 34
>RE: Rudder Stops
>
>>From dimensions taken from drawing #34, the horizontal portion of the
>rudder stop would sit above the horizontal position of the rudder
>horns.
>
>With this in mind, wouldn't the rudder stop only contact the rudder
>horns at the diagonal portion on the R-405 Rudder horn?
>
Yes. This is so that the rudder cable that is also attached to the horn
will be just slightly below the rudder stop, and not interfear with it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
Bill,
yes, you should use the cord line of the surface.
Stew RV4 co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trustmaster Sticks |
Thrustmaster is a computer joystick company. They sell several different
high quality flight simulation joysticks. They run from $50 to $150
depending on the model. I guess you could use one in an RV, just cut it off
the base and fit it to your control stick. Not sure what you'd have to do to
wire it. The buttons and handle are good quality, depending on the model.
You can check them out at any Comp USA or similar computer store.
www.thrustmaster.com
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
>>Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half
the
>price of Infinity sticks?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Primer questions. |
<< You can use silver solder for the fittings.
Ordinary solder is not recommended.
Copper line is fine or stainless will work.>>
The problem with stainless (ask me how I know) is that it is so stiff that any
vibration or side-to-side movement doesn't decouple over its length. All the
stresses go right into that weak little brass cone union on the primer
fitting. I ended up making what I consider to be a fool proof modification
for the cone union primer fittings when used with stainless tubing. Buy only
the AN4022-1 straight fitting (or the right angle AN4023-1 if it can fit).
Then get an AN818--2D nut, an a MS20819-2D sleeve and a brass "olive" from a
standard 1/8" compression fitting from the hardware store. Install the
AN4022-1 in the engine port using sealant. Cut the 1/8" tubing to length,
install the sleeve, the nut, the olive and bottom the tubing end into the
AN4022-1. Hold it there and tighten very well. The olive will become crimped
fairly tightly on the tubing (but will not even come close to damaging it).
The strength in this installation comes from the tubing actually going deeply
down into the AN4022-1.
<< Compression fittings tend to weaken the
tube therefore aren't recommended. >>
The above procedure only applies to stainless tubing. Copper tubing seems
soft enough to flex and decouple the stresses, so the standard AN800-2,
AN805-2 and AN4022-1 combination silver soldered should work as designed for
copper.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, dreed(at)cdsnet.net
writes:
<From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Primer questions. |
These days it is possible to buy low temperature solder that is equal to or
exceeds strength of conventional silver solder, don't know the details but
can it can be handy where you don't want to much heat applied. Not saying
thats the case here. Bran
>
> Yes. But "regular" solder is not sufficient. Use silver solder. Melts at
a
> higher temperature. Make certain the tubing opening or the fitting
orifice
> does not take the flux or solder. And be sure you put the nut on before
all
> this. You can thread it on afterwards from the other end, unless you
already
> have a fitting on or have flared the other end.
>
> Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
<< When measuring the
travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees for
example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of the
elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90 degrees to
horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this? >>
All control surface travel angles are lock to lock displacements from their
"in trail" reference positions.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
<< you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
What kind of cord did you use?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
RE: Fighter type control grips.
Thrustmaster products are made for the computer flight simulation/game
market. Besides stick grips, they make a replica of the F-16 throttle grip as
well, both have a gazillion buttons. As someone previously mentioned, wiring
them for a "real" aircraft application could be a challenge; mounting one on
the RV control stick might be too. Infinity's products are true aircraft
quality, built by an ex F-4 backseater, he manufactures a retractable gear
set-up for Long-Ezes as well. And, they do come in both left and right
versions. They're in San Diego, have a classified ad in the back of every
Sport Aviation. An alternative I used was to buy a grip from Canadian Home
Rotors, makers of the Baby Belle homebuilt helicopter (the Bell 47 look-
alike). They wanted a military type grip for their kits and just cast their
own copy. I bought one from them @ Oshkosh for $50 bucks. Just the rough
aluminum casting, you clean it up and supply/install/wire your own switches as
desired. They advertise in Sport Aviation, Kitplanes, etc. Glasair has a
cool stick grip too, mightr want to check them out as well (Arlington, WA).
Doug Seward, -4, Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Top skin overlap |
Hello all you RV-6 builders. The top skins F-674 and F-675 overlap by about
two inches. The manual says to trim the overlap. Has anyone simply drilled
two parallel rows of rivet holes and riveted them together much like we do
with the wing skins and the fuselage side skins?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber |
<< How did Tracy Saylor (and others) make the round inlet ports on the front
of
the cowl? What size diameter can they be made at when using a sealed baffle
chamber? Is there a speed advantage to this system and would it be worth the
extra hassle to build?
Norman Hunger >>
I think Tracy got his from Steve Barnard- these are no longer available thru
him. Contact Sam James, as he is molding the entire cowl, along with a 'glass
plenum.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Fairings; RV-8 |
Von,
I installed Tracy's gearleg fairings in July. I had the same
reservations about closing up my gearlegs, so against Tracy's advice
used the Van's hinge method. I did use about 1" rivet spacing. I have
about 70 hours on the installation with no damage. The paint over the
rivets is still intact suggesting that the rivets are not moving. I am
hesitant to recommend doing things against the manufacturers wishes even
when it has worked for me, so, "your mileage may vary".
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> In getting ready to install the gear fairings on the RV-8, I am trying
> to decide whether to just epoxy them at the trailing edge for a permanent
> and light installation, or to use the hinge material with removeable pin
> that is included with the fairings from Vans. Tracy Saylor, who is very
> knowledgable on these fairings, says to glass them, because the rivets
> eventually start tearing through the fiberglass and looking ugly. I tend
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming |
TCOlson wrote:
>
>
> Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC
> (much snipped)
Could you tell me what the pitch on your prop is. They sent me an 83"
pitch for a -4.
Thanks-- Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber |
I just purchased the Barnard Cowl from Sam James....got it last week. The
inlet rings are to follow shortly. In addition Sam sold me his plenum for the
180 hp motor. Quality of the work is fantastic and Sam was very helpful. He
will sell you just the inlet rings if you want to adapt them to whatever. Good
Luck, Bob Claypool, Fresno,CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's
still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes
the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and
that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts?
Dan DeNeal
Skinning the 6A fueslage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
I need source for engine parts for my Lycoming O320 E2D, I have to
change the accessory housing because it is not machined for the fuel
pump, I have a case from O290 engine believe it's the same but I need
gear with cam (i think, haven't looked yet) and pump push rod and
gaskets.
Any help is appreciated.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; www.valavionics.com,
or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>dreed(at)cdsnet.net
>writes:
>
><nav/com
>doesnt matter.
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Ordorff Systems video? |
Depends on whay you mean by comprehensive. Not only could they not
cover all the equipment possibilities, it is not possible to give a
step-by-step report of 2000 hours in a few hours of video. However....
The -6A videos are of the second RV they built. They know the pitfalls
and show you how to deal with the major problems of construction. For
the rest, they give you a good general idea of how the work is done. As
someone mentioned, George spends a good deal of time drilling and
clecoing - you will, too. George discusses his building decisions and
shows you what he did based on that. If you choose to use different
radio, antennas, engine, and/or prop than he did, you will not follow
the same path. In fact, I watched his wing videos and then skinned mine
in a different sequence than he did.
I have all of his RV-6a videos and the sheet-metal video. I have found
them extremely useful as a reference and for ideas on to proceed.
George prefaces each set with the caveat that they are for entertainment
purposes and not intended to be a step-by-step guide, but my opinion is
that they come pretty darn close, especially if you use them to clear up
visualization problems with the written plans and manual. Nothing,
however, beats asking another (or several) RVer to show you what they
did on their project.
PatK - RV-6A
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Anyone viewd the Orndorff Aircraft Systems videos? Just wondering if you
> thought they were comprehensive and valuable.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rich Rich Rich |
I would check your primer system (if installed) to make sure that it isn't
feeding the engine.
It's good that you have tried other carbs to rule out that problem, however,
what is your fuel flow/burn?
Are you using a "standard" (FAB) intake system? Perhaps your system creates
turbulence in the induction system.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RADIO-on a serious note-YAESU |
>
>I saw an advertisement for the YAESU super small handheld radio in the AOPA
>Pilot. I was wondering if anyone has gotten one of those. JR
JR,
A friend just bought one of these last week. Seems to be a real nice unit
though I havent had much opportunity to play with it. Note that they had to
disable the localizer feature which was originally part of the radio. Story
I got was some kind of patent infringement issue.
Ive used Yaesu ham handhelds for years and wouldnt hesitate to recommend
them. Cost was $499 from Marv Golden Aviation Supplies.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ordorff Systems video? |
>Randy Lervold wrote:
>>
>> Anyone viewd the Orndorff Aircraft Systems videos? Just wondering if you
>> thought they were comprehensive and valuable.
>
>
I referenced the videos while building my 6A. They are well worth their
cost. One thing to keep in mind, on his videos, George initially mounted
the oil cooler on the rear baffle. He had to move it up front as his oil
temps were too high. He installed the same engine as me, O-320 D1A from
Van's. The ports that George used on the engine for oil supply and return
are not the ports that Lycoming recommends. I do not know if this was by
accident or intentional. I used the proper ports, as recommended by
Lycoming, and mounted my oil cooler on the rear baffle (same place where
George had problems). My oil temps are just fine.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects
sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here.
Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so
collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of
airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership
and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would
appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars.
Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or
other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did
you use? Thanks.
Bill Thomas
Fuselage -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Call the manufacturer and ask. It might be just the pistons and jugs are
larger than a O-320. It might be the crank throw is longer. It might be
that O-360 jug and pistons work fine as experimental.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 10:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-340-A1A
>
>Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's
>still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes
>the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and
>that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts?
>
>Dan DeNeal
>Skinning the 6A fueslage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Last week I received 2 Infinity Grips for my birthday from JD at Infinity
Aerospace. No matter that I wont use them for 2 years, I just had to have
them.
I can just say that they are absolutely incredible. They look great, feel
great, and the workmanship is tremendous. JD has done an incredible job,
and I cannot imagine no having them in my plane.
If you are considering grips, take a look at his web site
http://www.flash.net/~infaero or call him at 619-448-5103.
They pictures do not do justice for the beauty of these grips.
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Von,
Tell us more about your experience with this radio.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at;
www.valavionics.com,
or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Steve;
I just happen to live in Salem, Or. where these Val radios are made; I
have no connection with them, but I can tell you they are a first class
operation. I had one of their radios in my Cardinal and was very happy
with it. Of course they are very popular with the RVers around here and
they have all spoken highly of them. In the RV-8 that I am building, I
would probably not recommend this radio, because it is very deep in size,
and only leaves about 1/2" in back before the front baggage wall. I did
manage to make it fit, though. Should be fine in the 4's and 6's.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Von,
>
>Tell us more about your experience with this radio.
>
>Steve Soule
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at;
>www.valavionics.com,
> or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Searching for a name/airplane |
Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters?
Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a
photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme
looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain
some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4.
Long shot!
Regards,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
500 Oracle Pkwy
Redwood Shores, CA
94065
650-506-2740
name="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steve;B
FN:Steve B Janicki
ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
TITLE:Sr. Director
TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19981130T205629Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
Each state is different, but in most cases, you gotta pay! There is
much in the archives about this topic.
As I recall we discussed numerous state policies and various ways to
avoid the tax. None of the tax avoidance seemed to really work, but you
might be able to reduce the tax bill, depending on what you claim for
the cost to buy the parts to build the plane, i.e, do you include the
cost of radios (maybe), paint and primer (probably not, especially if
you paid sales tax when you bought it at the local paint store).
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
Bill Thomas wrote:
>
>
> Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects
> sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here.
> Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so
> collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of
> airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership
> and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would
> appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars.
>
> Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or
> other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did
> you use? Thanks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Grips |
I second his answer regarding these grips...they are excellent...I can not
wait to fly with mine!
I plan on updating my webpage soon with pictures of all of my newly received
goodies..(avionics, engine, finish kit, grips, etc)
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
See the Search Engine.
Yes, they do come after you in Texas.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
Subject: | Re: RMI Discount Buy |
Listers,
To date I have the following "orders" for the RMI quantity discount buy:
(2) uEncoder Kits
(4) uMonitor Kits
Thus, we do not qualify under RMI's terms. I guess many lister's decided
the small 5% discount was simply not enough to make it worthwhile (as I did,
since the savings would only be about $30-$40 on each unit).
Unless I get a flood of e-mails wanting in by tonight, I consider the group
purchase off at this point.
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picking up engine tonight!).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott E Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
Subject: | I took off my brake springs, heres what I found ... |
I still had brakes that were dragging so I got new brake springs from vans.
The old ones I took off measured 3.5 inches, 3.9 inches, 3.5 inches, 4.0
inches. The new ones I received were about 4.25 inches. I will let the
list know if this does not cure the dragging brakes, but I suspect it will.
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/30/1998 12:40:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects
sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here >>
I have first hand knowledge and some tips on the state sales tax in
Connecticut and can give you fairly good tips. The state of Connecticut will
be looking for sales tax when they see an aircraft registration (happened to
me on my first homebuilt). They will expect you to prove that you have paid
the taxes. I have already registered my RV6, so I am expecting the letter any
day (they seem to get aircraft registrations something like quarterly). I
contacted the state for the form and paid the sales tax on the kit as soon as
I received the first kit. Now when they contact me (a letter saying that they
see you have recently registered an aircraft in the state and pay the sales
tax or prove you have paid it), I have documentation to show them.
Contact me OFF LIST and I can provide you with additional hints.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
Ok,
After seeing a similar request, I am getting ready to build the -6A.
Is there anyone willing to fly one into Harrisburg, PA - or the surrounding
area so I might be able to get a ride and check out the plane??
Bryan A. Gembusia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
Sorry, I have to agree with JR. But, since we are asking, how much are gear
teeth for a RV-6A, I hear that "Gear teeth" companies REALLY mark these up
for RV's.
Bryan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com [SMTP:JRWillJR(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 2:04 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RADIO
>
>
> "How much is a radio for a 6A?" Actually "radio companies" charge more for
> radios in a 6A than for a plain old 6 or 4. I sometimes use smoke signals
> or a
> can on a string--real cheap. Radio Shack has some nice walkie talkies.
> How's
> about NO radio--very cheap and light? Couldn't resist so go ahead and
> flame
> me. JR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
Pennsylvania does not charge sales tax on out-of-state purchases. Also, a
business in PA does not have to charge state sales tax on a purchase being
shipped out of state.
BG
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Thomas [SMTP:wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:16 PM
> To: RVLIST(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sales Tax
>
>
> Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects
> sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here.
> Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so
> collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of
> airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership
> and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would
> appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars.
>
> Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or
> other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did
> you use? Thanks.
>
> Bill Thomas
> Fuselage -6A
>
>
>
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Searching for a name/airplane |
Steve,
Have you tried to lookup him or the N-number in one of the pilot or aircraft
search engines? Try avweb.com or landings.com and look for "database"
and/or "search" links. Amazing how much info is available that you only
thought was protected by the privacy act;)
Regards,
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy
Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters?
Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a
photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme
looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain
some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Electric Flap Question |
On the electric flap jack screw mechanism, there is a rod end which
connects it to the flap actuator weldment. To fix this rod end to the
extension rod of the mechanism, there is a jamb nut. How does one keep the
extension rod from turning when tightening the jamb nut? It seems a little
un-airplane like to grab the extension rod with a pipe wrench. Loctite?
The failure mode would be a rather sudden flap retraction, something I
don't want to test.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Searching for a name/airplane |
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane
>
>
By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters?
Steven
I ran this name on http://www.avweb.com/database/airman/airman.cgi and it
came up blank. You might want to add this to your favorites - it's a quick
access to registered airmen. AVWeb has several databases that may be
helpful.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's
>still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes
>the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and
>that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts?
>
>
If I recall correctly the O-340 is a hybrid using a mix of parts from an
O-320 and an O-360. The arcives contain a lot of discution about this
engine.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Top skin overlap |
>
>Hello all you RV-6 builders. The top skins F-674 and F-675 overlap by
>about
>two inches. The manual says to trim the overlap. Has anyone simply
>drilled
>two parallel rows of rivet holes and riveted them together much like
>we do
>with the wing skins and the fuselage side skins?
>
>
The reason for the extra material is that since the tail cone area is a
conical shape, the rivet line made by the bulkheads on the skin (if the
bulkheads are held in their proper position) makes a slightly curved line
if the skin as laid flat after drilling.
Your rivet line should be quite close to the end of the skin down near
the longerons. The extra will primarily be over the top of the turtle
deck.
So what is usually done is to drill the skin and then measure the trim
line back from the rivet line.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
>
>Seems like a stupid question even for me as I'm typing. When
>measuring the
>travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees
>for
>example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of
>the
>elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90
>degrees to
>horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this???
>
The next RVator should have a small article on this since it seems to be
a confusing issue to many.
You are checking for the specified # of deg. in deflection from neutral
on the given control surface.
This can be done with out referencing anything to the cord line.
use any tool that can measure in degrees ( a digital level, analog style
protractor gage, etc.).
As an example - the following would be to check elevator travel
Set the tool on the elevator with it positioned at neutral and note the
reading (lets say it says + 24 deg.).
Now swing the elevator to its full down positions and again note the
reading (lets say that it now reads 49 deg.)
All we care about is what the range of motion is in deg so we subtract
the neutral value of 24 from the total value of 49 and we see that we
have a range of motion of 25 deg.
The same is done for the up travel though it will likely have two deg.
values that are on different sides of zero which means that you then add
the two together. Like +24 for neutral and +11 for full up. When added
together you have a range of travel of 35 deg.
This may at first seem confusing, but if you watch the instrument to see
what the total swing in degrees is of the travel from neutral it will
make sense and you will be able to tell whether to add or subtract.
It is hard to measure the rudder travel this way (unless you want to lay
your airplane on it's side) but you usually get close to the correct
amount of travel if the rudder hits the stop when the elevator gets no
closer to the rudder than about 1 inch when you swing the elevator up and
down through it's travel.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Stall warner photo & directions, RV-6A engine photos |
Listers,
I finally got that photo scanner. RV stall warning vane/switch
information (mounting diagram, photo, description) and my RV-6A O-
360 engine mounting photos are at my web site,
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/30/98 3:05:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, DFaile(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Now when they contact me (a letter saying that they
see you have recently registered an aircraft in the state and pay the sales
tax or prove you have paid it), I have documentation to show them. >>
David
Let all of us listers in on what the final outcome is. I am interested in
knowing if they will be "satisfied" with sales tax on a "kit", or if they also
go after sales tax on the more expensive avionics, instrumentation, and
engine/prop parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Stephen,
Just to add my two cents worth, I have a VAL radio in my four and constantly
get comments on how well it sounds to other stations. It is clear as a bell
in the 4 as well. I have spoken to other aircraft in the air over 100 miles
away. Well worth the money in my opinion. The only complait I have is that
it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to set
them every time.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV-4
>
>Von,
>
>Tell us more about your experience with this radio.
>
>Steve Soule
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at;
>www.valavionics.com,
> or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
Subject: | rear top skin rivets |
I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft
top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet them on at this
stage to make easy access to the fuselage for wiring, controls, etc. The
instructions seem to imply that it would be better to leave riveting for
later. However, at this point I have the rear fixed up with padding and a
floorboard which I needed to have in place for drilling. Sure seems like it
would be easier to buck rivets in the rear without an elevator push tube in
place and no floor board. Anyone have recommendations on the question of
"to rivet or not to rivet"? One choice would be to rivet the rear skin but
leave the one behind the canopy for later.
Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; www.valavionics.com,
> or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
> >
> >In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> >dreed(at)cdsnet.net
> >writes:
> >
> >< >nav/com
> >doesnt matter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
I like the Val radios enough to have two of them you can see my panel
by clicking on the link that takes you to Matts Matronics site. You
well see the two Vals right below Matts FuelScan.:-)
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896jerry.jpg
Jerry Springer Hillsboro, OR
RV-6 First flight July 14,1989
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
Bill,
I went thru this when I purchased/built/registered my Kitfox. I don't see
a way around paying the use tax in CT. The state gets a list of aircraft
registrations from the FAA. Guess you could register your plane in
Delaware but I don't know what can of worms that would open with the FAA.
I fess up and pay the tax on each kit as I buy it. So far that spreads the
the tax costs out to one kit a year(s).
One other thing: keep all your tax returns and original checks. I have
been asked twice by the state to prove I paid the tax. Luck for me I'm
anal about keeping all tax documents.
>
>Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects
>sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here.
>Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so
>collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of
>airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership
>and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would
>appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars.
>
>Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or
>other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did
>you use? Thanks.
>
>Bill Thomas
>Fuselage -6A
>
>
John Ciolino RV-8
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
Hartford, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: VOR Antennas |
peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com writes:
> Has anyone out there installed a VOR antenna on the top of the vertical
> stabilizer, as is done on many factory planes?
I know that someone else mentioned Sportcraft antennas by Bob Archer. What
I did was to fabricate a wingtip VOR antenna using the dimensions in the
AeroElectric Connection. I'm using a splitter for the VOR/LOC & GS signals. It
works great! I'm able to pick up VOR signals up to 100 miles away, and no
problems with the LOC & GS signals. I managed to fabricate the antenna in one
evening, out of scrap materials I already had laying around. I did use heavier
material than what was called out in the plans. It specified .020 material,
but .020 seemed too flimsy.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
><< you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
>
>What kind of cord did you use?
>
I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-)
LD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Primer questions. |
John Hughes wrote.....
"I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder
primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a
part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N.
AN-800-2)......Any
Thoughts?"
John --- I did the primers on my 0360 A1A a couple of months ago. At the
ports used AN4022 Primer Fittings with the AN800 "Code Union". I soldered
this union to copper tubing using silver solder and the normal flux for
silver solder. This is fastened to the Primer Fitting with an AN805 nut.
I used copper tubing back to aluminum "tee"s (MS208252D) on
crankcase/oilpan bolts secured with modified Adel clamps near the base of
cylinders #2 and #4. I joined the two "tee"s with 1/8 aluminum tubing and
used the aluminum tubing back to a plunger-type primer on the panel (with
the an anti-vibration loop, firewall fittings, etc.) and from there back to
the fitting on top of gascolator. Used the normal MS20819 sleeves and
AN818 nuts for connecting the copper and aluminum tubing to the aluminum
fittings. That's what this first-time builder did (and if we get feedback
that its wrong, well.....that's what this is about).
Aircraft Spruce shipped to me stainless Code Union fittings. I had trouble
soldering them to copper (it takes a special flux). It never occurred to
me to use stainless tubing. I wound up ordering brass Code Unions from
Wicks to go with copper. So you at least have dodged that one!
Keith Williams
RV6 - interior and final under panel checks before installing the boot-cowl
on slider
73623.2504(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Electric Flap Question |
Alex,
You can use something like channel locks with something
soft in the jaws. Or like I did, file or machine slight flats
on the end and use an adjustable wrench. It doesn't take much
torque. You can rig the system, mark the rodend threads, unscrew
it a few threads and apply a drop of lock tight. then tighten.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Electric Flap Question |
<< On the electric flap jack screw mechanism, there is a rod end which
connects it to the flap actuator weldment. To fix this rod end to the
extension rod of the mechanism, there is a jam nut. How does one keep the
extension rod from turning when tightening the jam nut? It seems a little
un-airplane like to grab the extension rod with a pipe wrench.>>
I clamped it in a soft jaw equipped vise. No visible distress.
Absolutely. I used 242.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Melvin Barlow" <Melvin.Barlow(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Searching for a name/airplane |
Hi, Steven. Sadly, Bob Smeesters lost his life in the crash of his -4 in
1989. Report is in the Sept. '89 RVator. I met Bob earlier in '89 at a flyin
at Orange, Ma. , which I attended with my -4. I don't recall much about his
paint scheme, except that it resembled some of the 30's sportplane schemes
such as on the GeeBees, Etc.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane
>
>
>Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters?
>Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a
>photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme
>looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain
>some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4.
>
>Long shot!
>
>Regards,
>
>Steven B. Janicki
>Sr. Director
>Oracle Data Center
>500 Oracle Pkwy
>Redwood Shores, CA
>94065
>650-506-2740
>
> name="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
> filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
>
>BEGIN:VCARD
>VERSION:2.1
>N:Janicki;Steve;B
>FN:Steve B Janicki
>ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
>TITLE:Sr. Director
>TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
>TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
>ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
>Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
>URL:
>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>REV:19981130T205629Z
>END:VCARD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
Joe Hine wrote:
>
> Stephen,
>
>
> . The only complait I have is that
> it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to
> set
> them every time.
>
> Joe Hine
> C-FYTQ RV-4
Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio just
returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last
active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use
this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient,
maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could
change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A.
Derek Reed Fuselage RV6A
Grants Pass OR [no sales tax, but you have to put up with the rain!!]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: LYCOMING PARTS |
---wayne bonesteel wrote:
>
>
> I need source for engine parts for my Lycoming O320 E2D, I have to
> change the accessory housing because it is not machined for the fuel
> pump, I have a case from O290 engine believe it's the same but I need
> gear with cam (i think, haven't looked yet) and pump push rod and
> gaskets.
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Wayne
Wayne:
Call El Reno Aviation
1004 South Country Club Road
P.O. Box 760
El Reno, OK 73036
1 (800) 521-0333
Ask for their FREE price list for Lycoming engines. They should be
able to help you over the phone with a new or used parts with the info
you listed.
I have the Lycoming Parts list at my hangar and can look up the part
numbers for you. If you find the part in the LA Area, I will pick up
and deliver for you. If I had the time, I would find and deliver for
you. I LOVE flying into Tahoe. Had a nice dinner there Saturday
night but drove because of weather. Should have called and had you
and Terri join us.
The accessory case that you have will work. I am the one who
introduced you to Randy.
When am I going to give your the ride I owe you in my RV? I left the
airplane in Jackson Sunday became of weather. Hope to retrieve it
this weekend. First time I had to leave the airplane because of
weather. Have a fly out to Apple Valley on Saturday at 9:00 and
should be at Alexander's RV Workshop to help out around 10:30. I do
need to retrieve the airplane so that I can fly.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I have a VAL radio in my four and constantly
get comments on how well it sounds to other stations. It is clear as a bell
in the 4 as well. I have spoken to other aircraft in the air over 100 miles
away. Well worth the money in my opinion. The only complaint I have is that
it loses the frequencies when you turn it off>>
I had one of these in my old Kitfox. I seem to remember that there is a
memory hold up pin on the VAL radio that you can connect to the battery bus to
retain stored freqs when radio power is cycled. I don't know how much it
draws though.
Maybe one could run power to this pin thru a small toggle switch to have
control of this feature when you want it.
Just a thought,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming |
Carroll Bird wrote:
>
>
> TCOlson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC
> > (much snipped)
>
> Could you tell me what the pitch on your prop is. They sent me an 83"
> pitch for a -4.
>
My prop has an 81" pitch that was recommended by Sensenich.
Rgds
Tom Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Grips (for sale) |
I got an Infinity Aero grip for the front seat of my RV-4. I decided not
to install it. If someone is interested in picking one up for list than
full price, send me a private message and I will tell you what switches
are on it, etc.
The grip is great. Very well made. Why don't I want it? Well, I changed
my mind about having all those functions on my grip and I decided not to
go to the effort to install it for just PTT for the radio.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Subject: | Re: rear top skin rivets |
Gar Pessel wrote:
>
>
> I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft
> top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet them on at this
> stage to make easy access to the fuselage for wiring, controls, etc. The
> instructions seem to imply that it would be better to leave riveting for
> later. However, at this point I have the rear fixed up with padding and a
> floorboard which I needed to have in place for drilling. Sure seems like it
> would be easier to buck rivets in the rear without an elevator push tube in
> place and no floor board. Anyone have recommendations on the question of
> "to rivet or not to rivet"? One choice would be to rivet the rear skin but
> leave the one behind the canopy for later.
> Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
Your last choice is the one I chose and it worked out well.
Sam Buchanan (getting ready to do engine stuff)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Trustmaster Sticks |
<< Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half
the
price of Infinity sticks? >>
Norman,
Let me first say I have one of the infinity stick grips in the
front seat of my 4 and am quite pleased with it. I also have one of the thrust
master joy sticks sitting next to me here at the computer. The infinity grip
was quite expensive when I bought it many years ago and I am sure its only
more so now. If memory serves me right the thrustmaster joystick was less than
half the price of the infinity grip. The infinity grip required alot of
cutting and modification in order to make it fit the tube and secure it. I am
sure it would be no more trouble to make the thrustmaster grip fit. The
switches on the thrustmaster would probably need to be replaced with better
switches that could be found in an electronics shop. I have changed 2 switches
in mine and it cost me less than 5 bucks. The thrustmaster joystick that I
have is exactly the same size and shape as my infinity grip. On my next
project I intend to try and modify a thrustmaster grip and see what happens.
Hope this answers some of you question.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: Searching for a name/airplane |
Melvin, I was afraid that would turn out to be the case. Interestingly
enough, I went back to the b&w photo on the RVator and managed to retrieve
the N number or so I believe. It now belongs to another RV-4. I was going to
contact that person but now that I know the RV-4 I am searching for is no
more I will cease. I did like the paint scheme and will somehow figure out
what the overall scheme resembled.
----- Original Message -----
From: Melvin Barlow <Melvin.Barlow(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane
Hi, Steven. Sadly, Bob Smeesters lost his life in the crash of his -4 in
1989. Report is in the Sept. '89 RVator. I met Bob earlier in '89 at a flyin
at Orange, Ma. , which I attended with my -4. I don't recall much about his
paint scheme, except that it resembled some of the 30's sportplane schemes
such as on the GeeBees, Etc.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane
>
>
>Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters?
>Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a
>photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme
>looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain
>some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4.
>
>Long shot!
>
>Regards,
>
>Steven B. Janicki
>Sr. Director
>Oracle Data Center
>500 Oracle Pkwy
>Redwood Shores, CA
>94065
>650-506-2740
>
> name="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
> filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf"
>
>BEGIN:VCARD
>VERSION:2.1
>N:Janicki;Steve;B
>FN:Steve B Janicki
>ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
>TITLE:Sr. Director
>TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
>TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
>ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
>Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
>URL:
>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>REV:19981130T205629Z
>END:VCARD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rich Rich Rich |
Scott,
How long has this thing been sitting? Have you run a compression
check and made sure that your fowling isnt due to oil blowing past the rings?
Just another angle.
Ryan Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Thanks to all that responded. I had checked the www.landings.com
Database where I was only able to find the serial number and no other
data pertaining to Smeester. When I looked closer at the RVator picture
and was able to read the N number I did another search. Strangely it
returned an RV-4 with and 0-320 engine located in Maryland.
The number must have been put back in the pool. Just strange that it
went to another RV-4!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Grips |
Suzie Q has the Infinity grip in the front office and, as I have stated
before, I REALLY like it. It fits my hand perfectly, is very comfortably to
fly with and is quite functional. It is not difficult to wire the different
functions to the switches and gives you more of a hands-on control when you
need it. It is also well made and, if the switches aren't what you need
(say, a momentary instead of an on/off) they are easily changed. It was also
very easy to install; well, as easy as any other electrical item. The grip
itself slipped right on the control tube. If I remember right, you order
according to the tube diameter you want and it is a slip-on-and-bolt
installation. He went through quite a few variations before he had the grip
he wanted to sell a lot of. Worth the work.
I don't have to release the stick to: flip/flop com channels; change the com
stand-by channel; push to ident; turn the landing or taxi lights on; and of
course, push-to-talk.
And it looks really cool.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year two
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
<< << you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
>
>What kind of cord did you use?
>
I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >>
Leo-
You are as always a cunning linguist.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
When I registered my Fox I had to pay sales tax on the basic kit. I did not
pay sales tax on all the other mail order items such as radios etc. If asked
tell them there are none--I keep saying how about no radio or anything else
for that matter. I did not pay tax on the finishing kit nor on my labor. I
think there may be a statute of limitations on how far back a purchased item
is eligble for sales tax. I think the kit is not taxable and not registered
because it is just a pile of parts--most mail order--some local purchase--some
homemade(YES), therefore taxes are not owed until the plane is finished and
registered. Here is an idea---purchase a partial kit or basic kit and then
register the aircraft--when you receive a tax notice pay the taxes owed on
that portion and the tax man may forget about you and all the rest of the
things you buy. JR--willing to pay my fair share so the goverment can waste
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | rear top skin rivets |
Gar,
I'm at this point with my non-quick build. I am leaning toward riveting the
top skin that is closest to the tail and leaving the larger one until after
I get the controls built and the canopy installed.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and
preparing the two aft
top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet
them on at this
stage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LYCOMING PARTS |
might wont to call Bobby's planes 'n parts 817 682 4220 our chapter #19 ,
has purchased 5 engines for various projects . 4 for rvs and a cozy mark 4.
will swap out the accessory case.will work with you on any parts you need. He
is a pleasure to work with. RV6A one gear wings and engine installed
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> |
Subject: | Alternator question |
I have a 40 amp circuit breaker for the alternator. It has a "line" and
"load" terminal. Where should I attach the wire from the alternator? To
the "line" terminal or the "load" terminal???
Thanks
Bob Cabe
Getting close in San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> |
What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located 6"
down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high
as 1500 degrees. Is that too high???
Thanks
Bob Cabe
(For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
Subject: | Sales Tax and out of state building |
I was wondering what if you happened to buy some of the kits in one state,
and the rest in a another, what tax do you owe?
In my case, I'm building in Norway right now. I plan to return to the
States at some point and finish my RV then. If I build my tail and wings
here, what right does any State have to charge me sales tax when I then
register it?
Thanks
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
> >
> >What kind of cord did you use?
> >
> I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >>
>
> Leo-
>
> You are as always a cunning linguist.
>
> -GV
Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line"
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Kevin,
I have my probes 2" down from the flange and am seeing about 1350* max
during cruise while leaned to the rich side. Unless you have probe accuracy
problems, 1500* at 6" seems on the high side..... Mag Timing, and fuel
related problems (Float level, jet sizes) can cause high exhaust gas temp
problems.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Beaton [SMTP:kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:19 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Maximum EGT
>
>
> What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located
> 6"
> down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high
> as 1500 degrees. Is that too high???
>
> Thanks
> Bob Cabe
> (For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Correction; it goes to 121.9 as ground frequency.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Joe Hine wrote:
>
>>
>> Stephen,
>>
>>
>> . The only complait I have is that
>> it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary
>to
>> set
>> them every time.
>>
>> Joe Hine
>> C-FYTQ RV-4
>
>Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio
>just
>returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last
>active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers
>use
>this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient,
>maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could
>change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A.
>
>Derek Reed Fuselage RV6A
>Grants Pass OR [no sales tax, but you have to put up with the rain!!]
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>See the Search Engine.
>Yes, they do come after you in Texas.
Charles,
Here is your quote from the archives:
"The State of Texas realizes it is missing sizeable revenues due to "mail
order businesses" and is getting very aggressive in attempting to collect
same.
One mail order company I use monthly, has started charging Texas Sales Tax."
Have you had them ask you for sales tax on a Van's kit?
I do a lot of mail order stuff for my other side-work: cabinet making.
I choose catalog companies which are out of state on purpose.
If Texas is going to join the ranks of pick-pocket states I may have to think
about moving again.
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott \"Sky\" Smith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com> |
Recently there have been numerous dicssions about RV Insurance. I just
wanted to clarifiy the SkySmith program. We spent three years developing a
relationship with the insurance company and Vans to offer the most product
for the best price.
It is important that insureds research each company. I would like to point
out that the coverages that most companies offer is no where close to what
we have. In fact, the lowest priced one has exclusions that state "they
will not pay for claims from "defective, inadequate design, plans materials
or workmanship." This hints to me that they'll only pay if you have pilot
error or an act of nature.
Our coverage includes first flight (from hour one), off airport landing,
premise liability and non owned coverage (just to list a few things).
There are other extras available - like non owned hull (both non owned
coverages work for factory or custom built planes)
Dual requirements are flexible and the underwriter is very happy to develop
unique training programs on a per case basis. And if you fly with Mike
Sager it usually qualifies you to fly your own.
Originally we set up an "RV Group" with dicounts on products. We can make
that available to anyone that is interested. TKM Radios, Magellan GPS,
Lightspeed, Telex, Flightcom headsets and intercoms...almost anything that
our company has access to is available to our insureds for cost + freight
and something for the company. Usually less than TAP or discounts. We
offer this just as a service for the insureds. Feel free to ask questions
and accept my apology if I took to much space. Thanks again, Scott Sky Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Alternator question |
<< I have a 40 amp circuit breaker for the alternator. It has a "line" and
"load" terminal. Where should I attach the wire from the alternator? To
the "line" terminal or the "load" terminal??? >>
First of all, the 40A breaker is too small a capacity (assuming you have one
of the 35A alts). You will get nuisance trips.
To prevent this, the breaker should be sized >130% of your alternator's
continuous rated capacity. I would suggest no less than a 50A breaker for a
35A alt, but Bob Nuckoll's 80A inline fuse would work for all alternators in
the 35-60A range.
The alternator would connect to the "line" side. "Load" side to the switched
side of the master contactor.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale |
I am building an RV-4 and am ready to take the fuselage and second wing off
their respective jigs. The fuselage jig is a Stephen Frey jig used only
once. It includes the "bird cage" option. I am asking $900.00. The wing jig
is a welded steel assembly that has been used to make one set of wings. Price:
$150.00.
Dean Pichon
Pichon.Dean(at)ADLittle.com
Cambridge, MA
(617) 498-6525
(781) 646-8456
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
ALL EGT temperatures are relative. Relative to placement, altitude,
mixture, humidity, ambient temperature, throttle setting, rpm, baffle
differences, cowl efficiency. They are useful setting mixture for most
power and best economy PERIOD. CHT are absolute. They are specified by
manufacturer... EGT is NOT.
ALL EGT temperatures are relative.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Maximum EGT
>
>What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located
6"
>down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high
>as 1500 degrees. Is that too high???
>
>Thanks
>Bob Cabe
>(For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | hombilt(at)Juno.com (Marvin E Morrison) |
Listers:
Watching all the conmments on the Val Radio brings to mind I have one
laying here that was used about 20-25 hours in a PT-2B that I sold.
I have the intercom module with it and will sell both for $500. I am
probably short the instructions on the intercom module.
Please contact me personally if you are interested.
Thanks
Marvin
phone-512=-898-2985
RV-8 ready for engine installation
Taylor, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
Recent listings regarding antennas remind me that Jim Weir, who runs
Radio Systems Technologies in California, authored several articles over
ten years ago describing how to make your own antennas using copper foil
- the kind used in making stained glass windows. I built a full set of
these antennas for my current airplane (all glass, not an RV), including
vor, glideslope, marker, and com, and they have worked perfectly for
many years. If memory serves me, I bought a whole roll of copper foil
for probably under $10......which made all my antennas with enough
material left over for another twenty airplanes! I am building a -6A,
and plan to use these antennas in the glass wing tips. There's no place
except inside the canopy (ugh!) to put the vertical com antenna, so
guess I'll get a store-bought one. RST advertises in the classifieds in
some airplane magazines, maybe Kitplanes, and it might be worth a call
to Jim to see if his old articles are still available. Years ago, Jim
sent me a copy free of charge.
Billl Thomas
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sales Tax and out of state building |
>
>
>I was wondering what if you happened to buy some of the kits in one state,
>and the rest in a another, what tax do you owe?
>
>In my case, I'm building in Norway right now. I plan to return to the
>States at some point and finish my RV then. If I build my tail and wings
>here, what right does any State have to charge me sales tax when I then
>register it?
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe
Instead of sales tax, its called use tax. Most states charge a sales tax if
bought within state. If you purchase something from another state, you are
required by most states to pay a use tax if you bring it into that state
(usually only if the use tax is greater than the origin state's sales tax).
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, been trying to pay my use tax for 2 1/2 years now but
nobody in the State office has enough competence to know how to take my
money even if I read them the tax code, meanwhile the penalties add up).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
While you lolligaggers are looking for cord line, does anyone have a
roll of flight line I could have a chunk of? ;)
Happy Holidays!
Doug Hormann
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
> >
> >What kind of cord did you use?
> >
> I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale |
Too bad you on the other side of the country else I would be interested!
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 10:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale
I am building an RV-4 and am ready to take the fuselage and second wing off
their respective jigs. The fuselage jig is a Stephen Frey jig used only
once. It includes the "bird cage" option. I am asking $900.00. The wing
jig
is a welded steel assembly that has been used to make one set of wings.
Price:
$150.00.
Dean Pichon
Pichon.Dean(at)ADLittle.com
Cambridge, MA
(617) 498-6525
(781) 646-8456
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DICKLRV6A(at)aol.com |
Hi Dave, I had the same problem and found an exchange sump at "ENPARTS"
700 Ferris Rd. Hangar 1A - 10A
Lancaster Airport
Lancaster, Texas 75146
1-800-444-3305 FAX:
214-227-7672
Good Luck, Dick Larash - 6A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | AEIO-360 for sale |
Listers:
This posted for a friend:
FACTORY NEW with 1 hour run time
Approx. $16,500
Call: John Zidek
913-491-2944 (KC area)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 11/30/98 |
> From: Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Sales Tax
>
> Do any of the listers have experience with this
> issue in Connecticut or
> other states? Did you have to pay? If you
> escaped, what rationale did
> you use? Thanks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Revenue, their excise tax is based on the cost of the
materials. I was told that I needed to bring in all
receipts, and they would determine the tax, including credit
for any Washington sales tax paid. I'd be interested in
stories from any Washington state folks that have been
through this. I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll
my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next year... :)
Bill Lattimer
Gettin' started on N558RV in December...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Free Standing Wing Jig |
I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
Chris Santschi.
Festus, MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
> Joe Hine wrote:
> > Stephen,
> > . The only complait I have is that
> > it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to
> > set
> > them every time.
> > Joe Hine
> > C-FYTQ RV-4
Listers,
I run a VAL and there is a memory circuit that you fuse with a 1 amp fuse
to
hold the last frequencies that were used. I can look up the pin number if someone
wants me to go that far. I took the fuse out of mine because my battery would
not start the engine after I had let it sit for a long time one winter. It might
have
been a coincidence but I haven't replaced the fuse to find out. It's easier to
toggle
the frequencies and not have to think about current draw on the battery, however
slight it may be.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Subject: | rear top skin rivets |
Gar:
On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing you
need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other than
that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I finish the
canopy (which I am doing now).
I am at the finish kit, and I have not wished I had not riveted that skin on
for anything.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
Subject: | RV-list Digest 11/30/98 |
In a previous message, it was written:
>I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll
>my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next
year... :)
Receipts?
What receipts?
Mike T@@@@@@@
Somewhere, TX
-6 Prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Wing Jig |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
> I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
>jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
>
Took me a while to find this - I knew I had seen it somewhere.
Check out the following:
http://www.flion.com/rv6a/toc.htm
Good luck!!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Wing Jig |
<< I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
Chris Santschi. >>
The Frey wing stands are free-standing. It looked in the brochures that the
upright was a pc of 3" sq tubing with the arms welded on, and a large plate
welded to the bottom. It looks like the plate is 10" square, with concrete
anchors at each corner. I'd guess that you would level/plumb the stands with
opposing nuts on too long anchors.
You'll need four stands to do two wings.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Scott
Please fax me more info on this insurance
John McMahon
615-451-0893=fax
615-452-8742=Home
Scott "Sky" Smith wrote:
>
> Recently there have been numerous dicssions about RV Insurance. I just
> wanted to clarifiy the SkySmith program. We spent three years developing a
> relationship with the insurance company and Vans to offer the most product
> for the best price.
>
> It is important that insureds research each company. I would like to point
> out that the coverages that most companies offer is no where close to what
> we have. In fact, the lowest priced one has exclusions that state "they
> will not pay for claims from "defective, inadequate design, plans materials
> or workmanship." This hints to me that they'll only pay if you have pilot
> error or an act of nature.
>
> Our coverage includes first flight (from hour one), off airport landing,
> premise liability and non owned coverage (just to list a few things).
> There are other extras available - like non owned hull (both non owned
> coverages work for factory or custom built planes)
>
> Dual requirements are flexible and the underwriter is very happy to develop
> unique training programs on a per case basis. And if you fly with Mike
> Sager it usually qualifies you to fly your own.
>
> Originally we set up an "RV Group" with dicounts on products. We can make
> that available to anyone that is interested. TKM Radios, Magellan GPS,
> Lightspeed, Telex, Flightcom headsets and intercoms...almost anything that
> our company has access to is available to our insureds for cost + freight
> and something for the company. Usually less than TAP or discounts. We
> offer this just as a service for the insureds. Feel free to ask questions
> and accept my apology if I took to much space. Thanks again, Scott Sky Smith
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>RST advertises in the classifieds in
>some airplane magazines, maybe Kitplanes, and it might be worth a call
>to Jim to see if his old articles are still available. Years ago, Jim
>sent me a copy free of charge.
>
RST sells a little book which is collection of the old articles - $5. They
sell a kit of th book, 100 ft of copper tape and some torroids - $29.
Go to: http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/catalog/antpar.html
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Help With Email Address |
Brian at the address below contacted me off list with some EAA Technical
Counselor questions. I answered them at the address below, bot the mail keeps
bouncing.
Could Brian pleas contact me again!
bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au
I live in Albany, Western Ausralia and am building an RV6,
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Wing Jig |
Chris
I have Four of them that I used to build my wings.....
John McMahon
E-mail=rv6(at)earthlink.net
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
> jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
>
> Chris Santschi. >>
> The Frey wing stands are free-standing. It looked in the brochures that the
> upright was a pc of 3" sq tubing with the arms welded on, and a large plate
> welded to the bottom. It looks like the plate is 10" square, with concrete
> anchors at each corner. I'd guess that you would level/plumb the stands with
> opposing nuts on too long anchors.
>
> You'll need four stands to do two wings.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 11/30/98 |
Except, I suppose, for those you have lost?? :~)
hal
> From my recent interface with the Washington Department of
> Revenue, their excise tax is based on the cost of the
> materials. I was told that I needed to bring in all
> receipts, and they would determine the tax, including credit
> for any Washington sales tax paid. I'd be interested in
> stories from any Washington state folks that have been
> through this. I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll
> my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next year... :)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | rear top skin rivets |
IMHO you will have less hassle if you rivet the large aft skin (F6112?) before
you get too far on the slider canopy. My experience was that the canopy frame
needs to be installed *FULLY* by which I mean, latches at front and into rear
blocks and slides well on the rear track. I suppose you could do all this with
the skin removed but not with it clecoed. I riveted both aft skins and suffered
no grief. I cut the big skin about two inches behind the rear bow of the
frame.
The canopy frame on my QB was a poor fit; I cut it in two places to get it to
fit. The front bow was wider on one side and the center tube was too short.
The rear bow is off too but acceptable. I suggest getting the frame working
without the plexiglass.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing you
> need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other than
> that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I finish the
> canopy (which I am doing now).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Subject: | RE: rear top skin rivets & canopy |
>> On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing
you
>> need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other
than
>> that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I
finish the
>> canopy (which I am doing now).
>IMHO you will have less hassle if you rivet the large aft skin (F6112?)
before
>you get too far on the slider canopy. My experience was that the
canopy frame
>needs to be installed *FULLY* by which I mean, latches at front and
into rear
>blocks and slides well on the rear track. I suppose you could do all
this with
>the skin removed but not with it clecoed. I riveted both aft skins and
suffered
I had both of the rear top skins cleco'ed on, and put a few of the
screws in
the top slider rail to keep it on tight. I could then remove just the
cleco's
that interfered with the frame as it rolled back. No problem. Keep in
mind
you can put the cleco's in from the inside, which keeps them out of the
way in many cases like this!
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
If the tax man ever asks for the "unpaid" sales tax for my RV-6, my response
will be:
1) I bought the kit second hand from an individual, who I'm sure already paid
the sales tax.
2) I bought the engine used, therefore no sales tax to pay.
3) I bought all the expensive bits (radio, etc) at SNF, OSH, etc, and paid
sales tax in those states.
4) I bought all of the miscellaneous stuff at the local hardware stores, paint
stores, etc. Already paid sales tax on that.
I hope it is a short discussion.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Help With Email Address |
I am on the RV List, but I think you might have another Brian I mind. I live
in Washington state and am building an RV-4 and planning on installing a Mazda
13 B ratary engine in it.
Good luck with your -6
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: rear top skin rivets |
> I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two
aft
> top skins. Anyone have recommendations on the question of
> "to rivet or not to rivet"?
I built the slider, and to finish the canopy work the skins need to be
riveted on. I haven't found any reason not to do so yet. Drill the
shoulder belt anchor holes first.
Alex P.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Help With Email Address |
G'day David, it's bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au You missed out the
"LLLL". I take it you must have manually input the address. I did recieve
your message saying you would reply later, so guess you found this out
yourself. Thanks David, when you can will be fine. Cheers, Brian
> Could Brian pleas contact me again!
>
> bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au L missing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Derek Reed wrote, about the VAL radio
>
>Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio just
>returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last
>active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use
>this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient,
>maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could
>change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A.
>
and he is right, I didn't mean to mislead, the radio does go to the same
frequency when you shut it off, although I don't remember what it is. The
radio is still a good value for the money. One of you guys still building
should jump on the one for sale on the list tonight.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
GV wrote
>I had one of these in my old Kitfox. I seem to remember that there is a
>memory hold up pin on the VAL radio that you can connect to the battery bus
to
>retain stored freqs when radio power is cycled. I don't know how much it
>draws though.
>
>Maybe one could run power to this pin thru a small toggle switch to have
>control of this feature when you want it.
>
Thanks Gary, I'm going to check on this. You are a wealth of information.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/1/98 7:31:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM writes:
<< Have you had them ask you for sales tax on a Van's kit? >>
VAN'S is located in the state of Oregon, where there "is no sales tax".
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Wing Jig |
In a message dated 12/1/98 11:55:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
<<
I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
Chris Santschi.
Festus, MO. >>
Of course Chris, but we bolt them to the floor
.Here in So Cal WE use 2 in
square tubing for the uprights with a piece of UNISTRUT channel welded to the
side, and bolt the cross bars to that.
Fred LaForge RV-4 7
hrs
on the hobbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
I like this idea, but at what point can you register the aircraft???
BG
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com [SMTP:JRWillJR(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 3:46 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sales Tax
>
>
> When I registered my Fox I had to pay sales tax on the basic kit. I did
> not
> pay sales tax on all the other mail order items such as radios etc. If
> asked
> tell them there are none--I keep saying how about no radio or anything
> else
> for that matter. I did not pay tax on the finishing kit nor on my labor. I
> think there may be a statute of limitations on how far back a purchased
> item
> is eligble for sales tax. I think the kit is not taxable and not
> registered
> because it is just a pile of parts--most mail order--some local
> purchase--some
> homemade(YES), therefore taxes are not owed until the plane is finished
> and
> registered. Here is an idea---purchase a partial kit or basic kit and then
> register the aircraft--when you receive a tax notice pay the taxes owed on
> that portion and the tax man may forget about you and all the rest of the
> things you buy. JR--willing to pay my fair share so the goverment can
> waste
> it.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
Subject: | Rigging Elevators |
Only if you first clean it with a fresh can of "prop wash"
BG
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Glenn & Judi [SMTP:glenng(at)megsinet.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:50 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rigging Elevators
>
>
>
> Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
> > >
> > >What kind of cord did you use?
> > >
> > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >>
> >
> > Leo-
> >
> > You are as always a cunning linguist.
> >
> > -GV
>
> Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line"
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Bendix-King Transponder installation |
Just got my Bendix King KT-76A Transponder today in the mail. I bought this
one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness, antennae, etc so
an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of connectors and
assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring, and no
directions. Did I hear wrong?
Dave Beizer
Moreno Valley
RV-6A inst panel and paint to go
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
> -Derek Reed wrote, about the VAL radio
>
> >the radio just
> >returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last
> >active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use
> >this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient,
> >maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could
> >change this.
>
> and he is right, I didn't mean to mislead, the radio does go to the same
> frequency when you shut it off, although I don't remember what it is.
>
> Joe Hine
> C-FYTQ
Guys and Gals,
I think the reason the VAL radio goes to the same freq after shutdown is to
permit
you to tune a freq if the visual display goes dead. You start with a known
freq and flip the flippers the right number of clicks and there you go -- even
without a display you can still transmit having known where the starting point
is going to be.
Don't overlook Walter Dittel or Becker radios from Germany.
Not the least expensive but SMALL, good, and contain an intercom.
Frank Zeck, Lisbon ND, RV4 N2ZK flying with Dittel radio.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
Subject: | Free Standing Wing Jig |
Where can one find square tubing?
-Larry
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ferdfly(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig
In a message dated 12/1/98 11:55:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
<<
I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
Chris Santschi.
Festus, MO. >>
Of course Chris, but we bolt them to the floor
.Here in So Cal WE use 2
in
square tubing for the uprights with a piece of UNISTRUT channel welded to
the
side, and bolt the cross bars to that.
Fred LaForge RV-4 7
hrs
on the hobbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation |
---PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Just got my Bendix King KT-76A Transponder today in the mail. I
bought this
> one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness,
antennae, etc so
> an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of
connectors and
> assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring,
and no
> directions. Did I hear wrong?
>
> Dave Beizer
> Moreno Valley
> RV-6A inst panel and paint to go
Dave:
Call your dealer and let him know. They are required by King to do
the work. I purchased mine from the local Radio shop on the airport
where I am based. I requested that it not be prewired so that I could
do it. The owner said that King required it to be wired by him for
the warranty. I asked if I could do it anyway. Since he knows me, he
let me wire my own. I can photocopy the installation drawings and fly
it out to Hemet if you want to do it yourself.
E-mail me off list if you have questions. I am only at my hangar on
the weekends to get the info so it may take a little while to get back
to you.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation |
> I bought this
> one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness, antennae, etc
so
> an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of connectors and
> assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring, and no
> directions. Did I hear wrong?
Not sure. Who did you purchase it from? I bought a new KT-76C from Van's, and
it came with the power, ground, & antenna wires already installed on the tray,
and also included a new blade type antenna. All I had to do was install the
wiring from the encoder.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rigging Elevators |
Is That what is left after you use all that "HOGWASH"?????
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryan A. Gembusia <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 9:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rigging Elevators
>
>Only if you first clean it with a fresh can of "prop wash"
>
>
> BG
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Glenn & Judi [SMTP:glenng(at)megsinet.net]
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:50 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rigging Elevators
>>
>>
>>
>> Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >>
>> > >
>> > >What kind of cord did you use?
>> > >
>> > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >>
>> >
>> > Leo-
>> >
>> > You are as always a cunning linguist.
>> >
>> > -GV
>>
>> Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line"
>>
>> -Glenn Gordon
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Listers;
In thinking ahead to the final inspection on my RV-8, I have a question,
since I have never been through one of these inspections before. How much
of the airplane will need to be disassembled for the inspection? Should I
leave the interior, floors, baggage panels, inspection panels all out for
this? I guess I could have the cowling off, too. What is involved, what
is the normal cost, and how long do they usually take? Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA (still fiberglassing stuff)
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
AS LONG AS IT IS A GOD CLEAR RADIO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Thanks Gary, I'm going to check on this. You are a wealth of information.
>>
My old boss called me a cesspool of information.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< AS LONG AS IT IS A GOD CLEAR RADIO >>
Hallelujah, testify my brother!
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis P. Kane" <dennis(at)asimov.net> |
set no mail
Respectfully,
Dennis Kane
STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
When I talked to VAL about a repair they told me they didn't add
memory functions so they could keep the cost down. Makes sense.
hmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
>
> If the tax man ever asks for the "unpaid" sales tax for my RV-6, my response
> will be:
>
> 1) I bought the kit second hand from an individual, who I'm sure already paid
> the sales tax.
>
> 2) I bought the engine used, therefore no sales tax to pay.
re: 1) and 2), the state probably has a legal right to collect tax on
the value of any transaction. if ten people in succession buy the same
item from each other, the state has the right to collect tax on each
sale. really.
just because licensed businesses collect tax at time of sale, doesn't mean
private sales are any less subject to the tax.
> 3) I bought all the expensive bits (radio, etc) at SNF, OSH, etc, and paid
> sales tax in those states.
fair enough. one taxation per sale. (hope you saved your receipts, they
might ask to see them.)
> 4) I bought all of the miscellaneous stuff at the local hardware stores, paint
> stores, etc. Already paid sales tax on that.
again, reasonable.
> I hope it is a short discussion.
i hope we find out just how different states treat the issue.
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need
of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an
epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two
to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon,
figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most
acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2
gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint.
Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double
that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a
hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go
with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>re: 1) and 2), the state probably has a legal right to collect tax on
>the value of any transaction. if ten people in succession buy the same
>item from each other, the state has the right to collect tax on each
>sale. really.
Sadly true when you think about it - before you can register a vehicle
you buy used, you have to pay sales tax.
Will have to just make them work for it, obfuscate and delay. The Clinton
way!
- Mike
****************** NO IBM OPINIONS HERE! ***********************
Michael E. Thompson (MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM)
T/L 678-0779 (512) 838-0779
IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut
FLY FAST - FLY LOW - TURN LEFT!
****************** NO IBM OPINIONS HERE! ***********************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Hello, He who has bought the Sam James cowl please come forth and let the
world know the merrits. Does it fit the RV6 firewall properly? Did you do a
nosegear and how much fitting did that require? Does the new cowl come with
good instructions? How much does it weigh and how much do the two factory
cowls weigh? Was the oil access door the same deal as the factory cowl? How
well is the front end constructed? Do the inlets feel solid? Is your
airplane going to go faster than a regular RV6? Would you recomend this
option to others? Have you built a previous RV aircraft? Do you know what
the factory thinks about this particular cowl? Is there any chance that they
will offer it as an option in the future?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A
Delta, BC, Canada
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100.
My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference
between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ?
Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ?
They seem to do the same job.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Von,
Yes, you should have everything opened up. Pretend it is an
annual inspection. My brother is a DAR and charges $300.
The cost varies somewhat.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Von,
Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you
built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three
views too.
Stew
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
The screen's on the hand held's are superior to the panel mounts.
----- Original Message -----
From: Buster <6430(at)axion.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel GPS
I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100.
My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference
between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ?
Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ?
They seem to do the same job.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Colorado, in trying to lure United Airlines to build an overhaul base in
Denver, passed legislation exempting aircraft parts from sales taxes.
Fortunately it covers ALL aircraft parts, not just stuff for the big iron.
The state revenue people, however, sporatically attempt to collect taxes
after a plane is registered, even though they should not do so. If the
owner of a kit-built plane pays, they take the money. If he/she puts up a
fuss, they back off. I kept every receipt just in case, but they never
bothered me.
(Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm
thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough
to never ask! ) Go figure!!
FWIW RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Perhaps the panel mount is TSO 'd and the
handhealds are not. TSO 'd always weans more
money.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation |
As it turns out, Bendix King ended their policy of providing a prewired
harness with their radios/transponders this summer. None of the brand new
avionics catalogs I
have reflect this change and no one is volunteering this information unless
asked. I didn't check but I'm willing to bet the warrenty requires an
avionics shop to provide the harness. I didn't check because I wouldn't risk
doing it myself anyway. Pacific Coast Avionics will wire the transponder for
$50 (Cheap insurance) and my GPS/Comm for $150 (not so cheap insurance). They
also gave me some advice about encoders. Terra and narco encoders do not come
with harnesses, most other brands do. It also seems that when you talk to
salesmen on the phone they often offer you lower prices than listed in their
catalog. Bottom line is that I should have asked more questions before I sent
in my order. Thanks for the offers of help.
Dave Beizer
RV6A in Moreno Valley Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Von,
It's a tough question, and depends on a lot of factors. Whether you paint the
airplane together at one time, or in pieces, has an effect. Also, paint technique
has a lot to do with it. You should only need 2 wet coats to get the flow
you need. Any more than that is extra weight. The mixing ratio of the different
brands has something to do with it as well. Personally, if it were one
of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the minimum. It's
a real drag to need a couple of ounces of color when your on your last pass.
It's kinda like asking 20 people how much proseal they used on their tanks.
Probably get 20 different answers.
The new Polys are really expensive but are much better paints. But then again,
many airplane are painted with enamel/hardeners with fine results. Will your
airplane be hangared, or outside? If it's going to pampered, then just about
any paint will do.
Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier to shoot
than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's not quite
as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can be polished out,
and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be polished or repaired
well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to Deltron.
When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the cabinet.
Just my opinion though.
Laird
Socal RV-6 finish kit
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 8:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need
of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an
epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two
to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon,
figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most
acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2
gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint.
Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double
that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a
hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go
with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>(Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm
>thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough
>to never ask! ) Go figure!!
Receipts?
What receipts?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Still prepping wing spars (scrub, scrub, scrub)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Von,
I used PP&G delstar enamel and it has held up
very well!!! Shines like poly. I bought 2 gal. of
white for the whole ac base color. Used my hvlp
to spray it.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
>
>Von,
>
>Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier
to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's
not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can
be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be
polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to
Deltron.
>
>When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the
cabinet.
>Just my opinion though.
>
>Laird
>Socal RV-6 finish kit
Laird,
Dupont equivalent is Chroma One (for single stage) or Chroma Base/Chroma
Clear (2 stage). I just shot PPG Concept One (paint store claims its a step
up from Deltron but they couldnt really say why) for the first time this
past weekend. Good stuff, easy for a rookie painter, and with the DFX7
catalyst its dry to the touch in a couple of minutes so you dont have to
worry about dust, bugs, etc... I agree the acrylic urethanes are the way to
go for the amatuer as long as you have the $ and the right protective gear.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Subject: | Wanted: Plane to fly |
Listers,
I am a new pilot in training and have been fortunate to be able to fly a
new Grob (2 place aerobatic) for the last 6 months. It has a stick and very
nimble and great training, I think, for my future RV days.
Last week the club announced that the owner is yanking the plane to take it
down to LA.
All the other aircraft around town to train in are pretty shabby and
typical spam cans.
Does any one know of any planes out there for sale that are reasonable and
I could use as a trainer for the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar
etc etc. I need a 2 seater so that my instructor can come along. Also I
have been spoiled by new and ergonomically correct.
Thanks in advance.
Any ideas.
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Christmas List |
Can anyone recommend any tool that they found especially
>useful on the fuselage but wasn't really used on the emp or wing (less
likely
>that I already have one)? With all the platenut talk on the list lately
I
>thought I maight ask for a platnut drill jig from Avery. Which size
would be
>most beneficial during fuselage construction? Any favorite bucking
bars?
>Of course, drill bits are always on the list.
>Scott A. Jordan
Scott:
I got a 1.25x 5.5 inch steel round bar for backrivetting & it worked real
good. I used brown plactic package tape to not scuff the skin.
I would use the offset hidden method of tacking to skeleton together.
Spent some time checking the alighment of all the bulkhead flange & the
bulkheads themselves with strings or straighedges. If they are not right
after you nail them the skin will distort a little.
Can't have enough C clamps & the "welders clamps"
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | : LYCOMING PARTS |
>might wont to call Bobby's planes 'n parts 817 682 4220
Area code has been changed to '940' for Bobby Osborn
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
Ahhh, why not by a used RV?
I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV...
If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an
RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you something
very different from the plane you are building.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
<< It has a stick and very nimble and great training,
<< I think, for my future RV days.
<< Last week the club announced that the owner is
<< yanking the plane to take it down to LA.
<< Does any one know of any planes out there for sale
<< that are reasonable and I could use as a trainer for
<< the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
> Listers,
>
> I am a new pilot in training and have been fortunate to be able to fly a
> new Grob (2 place aerobatic) for the last 6 months. It has a stick and very
> nimble and great training, I think, for my future RV days.
>
> Last week the club announced that the owner is yanking the plane to take it
> down to LA.
>
> All the other aircraft around town to train in are pretty shabby and
> typical spam cans.
>
> Does any one know of any planes out there for sale that are reasonable and
> I could use as a trainer for the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar
> etc etc. I need a 2 seater so that my instructor can come along. Also I
> have been spoiled by new and ergonomically correct.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Any ideas.
> Dan Wiesel
> RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
> skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
that depends a bit on who will buy/own the plane. if you plan to buy it
yourself (possibly intending to sell it again when your 6 is flying?),
you can use anything you like. if you expect your instructor/flight
school to purchase the plane, well, they can't rent out an experimental.
hmm... i know that the owner of an experimental can ask passengers to
contribute to flying costs... any idea what's allowed there? (i.e., can
you say fuel is so much, 1/2000 of engine overhaul cost is so much,
1/100 of annual cost is so much, etc., and ask for that per hour?) is it
legal to use an experimental in conjuction with a commercial enterprise
such as flight instruction if you aren't specifically charging for the
use of the plane?
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Laird,
You said: "Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint
plus reducers would be the minimum. "
What would you charge a customer to paint an RV6?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)email.cwcom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Help With Email Address |
Hi Bri
That would be about right - you missing 'ell. Sunning yourself 365 days a year
whilst those of us who haven't done anything wrong are suffering the blight of
winter. I go to work in the cold and dark (- freezing this merry morn no less,
ahh the joys of scraping ice from the windscreen!) and leave work much the same.
Some punishment you lot got!!
By the way I live at Peterborough which is about 80 miles north of London
(that's our capital....). Work is at a small grass airfield looking after the
aircraft for a flying club (2xC152, 2xC152Aerobat, 1xC172N and the first Piper
Seneca imported into the UK - a couple of years ago now). There is a nice new
hangar being built for the club aircraft as I write (well not quite now -
they've gone home for the night!). Might even be finshed ready to house the bits
of an RV-6 for final assembly next spring!).
Keep smiling through the heat haze of life
All the best
Jerry
Brian Holman wrote:
>
> G'day David, it's bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au You missed out the
> "LLLL". I take it you must have manually input the address. I did recieve
> your message saying you would reply later, so guess you found this out
> yourself. Thanks David, when you can will be fine. Cheers, Brian
>
>
> > Could Brian pleas contact me again!
> >
> > bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au L missing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)email.cwcom.net> |
Subject: | Help Eith Email Address |
Sorry guys
Hit the wrong button and the personal abuse to a suntanned Ozzie got
sent the wrong way.
I always wondered how come so many people had done this before - I've
read enough apologies on the list in the past - now I know just how easy
it is. S'pose I could have blamed the computer but I bolted that
together myself, drat!!
Back to the baffling kit for sinning....
Jerry Parr
RV-6, G-RVVI
Peterborough, England (but you all knew that..)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
>Von,
> Yes, you should have everything opened up. Pretend it is an
>annual inspection. My brother is a DAR and charges $300.
>The cost varies somewhat.
>Stew RV4 Co.
Stew:
A post of what he is looking for & what to execpt would be nice for the
list.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: How Much Paint for RV-8? |
>Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's
>easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as
>tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or
>Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly
>sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the
>Dupont equivalent is to Deltron.
>
>When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the
>cabinet.
>Just my opinion though.
>
>Laird
>Socal RV-6 finish kit
Do I need to prime under the Deltron? If so, with what?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: How Much Paint for RV-8? |
In a message dated 12/2/98 11:48:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need
of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an
epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two
to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon,
figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most
acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2
gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint.
Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double
that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a
hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go
with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated.
Von Alexander >>
Von,
I painted my -6 with Sherwin-Williams acrylic enamel. I painted overall white
with trim colors. I bought two gallons of white and used almost all. I also
included a hardner and found it held up very well. In 1992 the white sold for
$61.80 per gallon. The hardner went for $32.95 per pint.
Rick McBride
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | MN Wing December Meeting this Sat |
Fellow Listers:
Just a note to the MN RV Listers that the MN Wing will have their December
meeting this Saturday, Dec 5 at 10:00 am. Location is the American Wings
Aviation Museum at the Anoka County Airport, Anoka, MN.
Topics will be planning for the Twin Cities RV Forum and then a panel
discussion on flight testing and flight characteristics of RVs. Afterwards
a tour of the museum.,
Coffee, donuts, juice as usual.
Questions, directions.. call me 715-386-1239
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Von,
You should ask the DAR that you intend to use what state he wants the aircraft
in for inspection.
I used a DAR and asked exactly the same question, his reply "It can be in
Maine".
I then asked him not what state geographicaly, but what condition, and he
wanted it ready to fly. That response made it clear to me that this would be a
exercise in paperwork shuffle only, and that proved to be the case. The last
paperwork was a check passed from my hand to his.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Stew;
What do you mean by 'three views'?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Von,
> Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you
>built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three
>views too.
>Stew
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
The receipts that you will need to prove ownership to get an N number for
it...no receipts, no N number, no N number, no fly.
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> In a previous message, it was written:
> >
> >(Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm
> >thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough
> >to never ask! ) Go figure!!
>
> Receipts?
> What receipts?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 Still prepping wing spars (scrub, scrub, scrub)
>
--
Scott
1986 Corben Junior Ace
N3642
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport) |
Posting this ad for a friend. The airplane is hangared at Carp, Ontario,
Canada.
================= Begin forwarded message ================
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998
RV-6, 180 HP, 410 TTA&E SMOH, Gyros, Night Flying Equipped,
Terra NavCom with ECDI, Terra Solid State Transponder with Mode C encoder,
Loran C, GPS, Vision MicroSystems Engine Instrumentation,
Intercom, Harold Rehm Prop.
This outstanding, versatile aircraft is yours for only $52,000.
Contact Luc at (613) 727-0285, email "LdeSadeleer(at)KPMG.ca",
view jpeg image @
http://www3.sympatico.ca/bdeschneider/luke_rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Manual Elevator trim |
RE: RV-6 Manual Elevator trim
REF DWG# 5PP
Hi,
I have the tail on my airplane, and I routed the trim cable so that I
could connect it up to set the throws. While in the process of
determining where to mount the WD415 to the E616PP Cover Plate, I have
determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob
centered. All of the adjustmens, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at
their limit. Even though this is on a quickbuild kit, I have checked
many of the dimensions and can't seem to figure out what I am
overlooking.
Thank,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/2/98 7:39:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil writes:
<< just because licensed businesses collect tax at time of sale, doesn't mean
private sales are any less subject to the tax. >>
Neither does it mean that they are!! By the way, D, are the initials of your
employer by any chance I.R.S?(only kidding)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/2/98 10:38:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<< The state revenue people, however, sporatically attempt to collect taxes
after a plane is registered, even though they should not do so. >>
Gee, I wonder if they are "pocketing" this money or what. Sounds like they
should be working for a nation to the south that starts with an M
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Alternator Pulley Size |
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
I had a fellow RVer visit my project today, and he recommended that I
change the pulley on my alternator from the 2 1/2" size that is on my
engine (Aero Sport 0-360, Nippo alternator) to a 4". He said that with
the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like
6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator.
Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes
with the alternator and made for automotive use.
Comments? Should I change this?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
>
> I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100.
> My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference
> between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ?
> Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ?
> They seem to do the same job.....
I haven't got a hand held, but after trying to read a map in my RV4 in bumpy
weather, I can just imagine trying to use a handheld and flying the plane
at the same time.
I might be wrong but common sense tells me I'm not. Anyway, thats why
I won't invest in a handheld even though its a lot cheaper in price.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
> Don't overlook Walter Dittel or Becker radios from Germany.
> Not the least expensive but SMALL, good, and contain an intercom.
>
> Frank Zeck, Lisbon ND, RV4 N2ZK flying with Dittel radio.
>
Do you have info on price,specs and most important, manufacturers
service organisation.
D.Reed RV6A fus.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | RED DOT ON TIRES |
Listers,
I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always placed the valve
stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires on my
airplane. Am I doing it right.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>> The FAR 23.1093 requirement is for a temperature rise of 90 deg F at
>> 75% power for engines with conventional venturi carburetors. Engines
>> with fuel injection must have a sheltered alternate source of air
>> with a temperature rise of 60 deg F at 75% power.
>
>Great post Kevin. Does anyone know if the requirements for fuel injected
>engines as paraphrased above are: 1) to allow for inlet/inlet filter icing,
>and 2) is a 60 deg. F rise typical of air that passes through the cylinder
>cooling fins at 75%? I have heard that port fuel injection does not need a
>heat muff for alternate air, but this makes me think twice.
>
>I have an Airflow FI system.
>
>We need to respect the FAR's, even if we are not required to meet them.
>
>Alex P.
I had promised to look into things and get back to the list, but I ended up
on the road and sort of forgot to respond. Anyway, enough excuses.
I looked into the history of the FAR 23 requirements for induction air
heating on fuel injected engines. FAR 23.1091 requires two separate air
intake sources for all reciprocating engines. This is intended to cover
such things as air filter icing, blocked air filters, etc.
FAR 23.1093 originally did not specify a temperature rise requirement for
induction air heating for engines with fuel injection systems that tended
to prevent icing (e.g. multi-port F.I.). These engines were required to
have an alternate source of induction air that was heated to a level
equivalent to that of engine cooling air that had passed by the engine
(paraphrased). No specific amount of temperature rise was specified. The
service history was good. But, there was concern that some new aircraft
might have a different engine cooling arrangement that resulted in the
lower cowling air being much cooler than the norm, and that this engine
might have a icing problem. So, to cover this hypothetical case, FAR
23.1093 was reworked at Amendment 43 to specify a 60 deg F temperature
rise. This was considered to be similar to what the current designs were
achieving (this info is from the premable to Amendment 43). So, unless
there is some reason why RV cowlings and engine cooling are different from
type certified designs, I would simply use lower cowling air for alternate
air for engines with multi-port fuel injection. I would also rig up a
temporary thermocouple system to check the temperature rise during my
flight test program.
Jim Nice asked how this applied to throttle body injection. FAR 23.1093
says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components
on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of providing a
heat rise of 75 deg.F when the engine is operating at 75 percent of its
maximum continuous power" I have never looked at a throttle body injection
system, but this description might fit.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: How Much Paint for RV-8? |
----------
> From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
> Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:20 AM
>
>
> Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need
> of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white?
Von.
It took almost 2 gallons of Imron to paint my 6. Unfortunately I initially
only purchased one gallon then had to pick up another gallon the next day.
Who said they could match any color?? Don't believe it!! My cowl is a
little different white than my fuselage. You may not notice it but I know
it's different and it bugs hell out of me when I think that I could have
avoided this by getting enough in the first place. Not a bad idea to have
a pint or so left over for any touch up in the future. After 5 years I
just repainted my gear intersection fairing and the paint was still fine.
I am pleased with the imron and would use it again although I didn't do the
initial painting. I made a deal with a local auto body shop owner who did
the priming and initial color. I did all the trim and lettering although I
would probably use vinyl trim next time. I rented a flatbed trailer to take
the fuselage down and took the wings, empenage, cowl and other pieces down
in my pickup.
Cost of 2 Gal Imron and Dupont Corlar primer $950.00
Shop supplies 40.00
Painting labor 250.00
Bear in mind that these are 1992 prices and this is in Canadian dollars (
about $1050 US in 1992) This was the first airplane he had painted and we
had a couple of small runs (we sanded out) but the price was right and I
was happy with the job.
( I still owe him a ride though). This worked for me and the price was
right. I did all the prep work, the skins were ready for paint and all
masking was done where necessary ie: firewall, canopy, cockpit etc.. I took
it in, he painted it on a saturday and I took it out on a sunday. I did
know him previously and I did trust him. This might be an alternative for
those of you who don't want to spend the big bucks on a showplane paintjob.
Regards
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Manifold pressure gauge |
A couple of weeks ago I submitted a post regarding a sticking manifold
pressure gauge.
I flew today and it is working fine. I removed it a couple of weeks ago
and took it home into a warm kitchen. I let it sit for about 12 hours in
the flat position. Inlet hole down on a paper towel. Amazing how much
blue residue (fuel) came on to the towel. I then put it in the oven and
set it for minimum (150 degreesF) turned the oven off when it reached 150
and let it cool and then did it again. I got out about as much again as I
had previously. It appears to be working okay today. I did install a small
( about the size of a roll of dimes) auto gas filter in the line between my
#3 cylinder and the gauge. Hope this helps. Some sort of filter to keep
gas dye from getting to the gauge is desirable.
FWIW
Ken Hoshowski C-FKEH RV6 First flight sept 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
The Dupont equivalent is Chroma One. I did my Comanche about five years
ago and it still holds a really nice shine. It's a little softer than Imron
and IMHO doesn't chip so easily.
I plan to use it on my "8" when the time comes.
Remember that whatever you use, use the whole system. Don't mix
manufacturers or systems within manufacturer lines and you should get good
results.
Bob
RV8 #423 working on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens [mailto:owens(at)Aerovironment.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 1:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Von,
It's a tough question, and depends on a lot of factors. Whether you paint
the airplane together at one time, or in pieces, has an effect. Also, paint
technique has a lot to do with it. You should only need 2 wet coats to get
the flow you need. Any more than that is extra weight. The mixing ratio of
the different brands has something to do with it as well. Personally, if it
were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the
minimum. It's a real drag to need a couple of ounces of color when your on
your last pass. It's kinda like asking 20 people how much proseal they used
on their tanks. Probably get 20 different answers.
The new Polys are really expensive but are much better paints. But then
again, many airplane are painted with enamel/hardeners with fine results.
Will your airplane be hangared, or outside? If it's going to pampered, then
just about any paint will do.
Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier to
shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's not
quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can be
polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be polished
or repaired well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to Deltron.
When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the
cabinet.
Just my opinion though.
Laird
Socal RV-6 finish kit
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 8:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need
of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an
epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two
to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon,
figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most
acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2
gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint.
Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double
that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a
hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go
with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Listers,
Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for
your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical
items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft
is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes!
There is no shame in having a few items that need attention
caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more
detailed inspection than ready to fly!
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
thats 3 views of the aircraft, ie. the ones furnished
by Vans...top view, side view, front view ect.
these are for his records and the FAA.
Stew
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
three drawings - front, side, and top views
-----Original Message-----
From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection
>
>Stew;
>What do you mean by 'three views'?
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>>Von,
>> Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you
>>built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three
>>views too.
>>Stew
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> List Support Contributions:
>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge |
>
>A couple of weeks ago I submitted a post regarding a sticking manifold
>pressure gauge.
>I flew today and it is working fine. I removed it a couple of weeks ago
>and took it home into a warm kitchen. I let it sit for about 12 hours in
>the flat position. Inlet hole down on a paper towel. Amazing how much
>blue residue (fuel) came on to the towel. I then put it in the oven and
>set it for minimum (150 degreesF) turned the oven off when it reached 150
>and let it cool and then did it again. I got out about as much again as I
>had previously. It appears to be working okay today. I did install a small
>( about the size of a roll of dimes) auto gas filter in the line between my
>#3 cylinder and the gauge. Hope this helps. Some sort of filter to keep
>gas dye from getting to the gauge is desirable.
>FWIW
>
>Ken Hoshowski C-FKEH RV6 First flight sept 8/93
>Salmon Arm B.C.
Ken,
I think there must be an underlying fault. Manifold pressure should be
atmospheric or less so that there shouldn't be any tendency to blow
fuel/air mix along the line. The gauge should also be sealed so that
nothing should move along the line even if the manifold pressure went
transiently positive (Back fire perhaps). Perhaps someone with more
experience than mine will recognize the symptom. I'm sure a filter on the
manifold pressure line is not a usual requirement.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> |
Subject: | RED DOT ON TIRES |
My understanding is that is how it used to be done when balancing was done
on abuble level. The dot was the best place to put the stem according to
the tire manufactuer. However, Today, computer balancers can tell you what
weight to add weather or not u put the stem near the dot. It just used to
make the bubble level job easier.
BG
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JimNolan [SMTP:JimNolan(at)kconline.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:32 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: RED DOT ON TIRES
>
>
> Listers,
> I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always placed
> the valve
> stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires on
> my
> airplane. Am I doing it right.
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12/01/98 |
From: | Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
>From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig
>
>
> I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing
>jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
>
>Chris Santschi.
>Festus, MO.
I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling was
about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes. I
turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the bottom
and the top. (Use metal gussets).
So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the top
of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you criss-cross
guy wires in the back of the jig.
Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around.
It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and doesn't
get in the way (mostly).
Bill Watson
RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires)
Mountain View CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Mumert" <dmumert(at)telusplanet.net> |
Hi all
Anyone interested in digital gauges should check out this page
http://www.dakotadigital.com/products/home.htm
Dave Mumert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulley Size |
VON L ALEXANDER wrote:
>
>
> I had a fellow RVer visit my project today, and he recommended that I
> change the pulley on my alternator from the 2 1/2" size that is on my
> engine (Aero Sport 0-360, Nippo alternator) to a 4". He said that with
> the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like
> 6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator.
> Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes
> with the alternator and made for automotive use.
> Comments? Should I change this?
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Von
Just leave it, that is a myth that keeps coming back. That alternator
will handle all the rpm you can give it with your Lycoming. If you
have some doubts send a email to Bob Nuckolls. There is a good
thread on alternators in the archives, I found it by clicking on the
archive link listed in Matts auto information trailer listed
with each message and then putting the words "alternator|nuckolls"
without quotes in the search and found it at message #358.
Jerry Springer 1000hrs on my $45.00 Nippon stock junkyard alternator.
Hillsboro, OR | RV-6 flying since 1989 | jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Engine, Infinity, RMI Photos |
I finally got around to updating my webpage with Engine photos, Finish kit
photos, Infinity Grip Photos, and Microencoder photos...
Enjoy!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: RED DOT ON TIRES |
> I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always
>placed the valve
>stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires
>on my
>airplane. Am I doing it right.
> Jim Nolan
>
You have it exactly right.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator trim |
>Hi,
>I have the tail on my airplane, and I routed the trim cable so that I
>could connect it up to set the throws. While in the process of
>determining where to mount the WD415 to the E616PP Cover Plate, I have
>determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob
>centered. All of the adjustmens, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at
>their limit. Even though this is on a quickbuild kit, I have checked
>many of the dimensions and can't seem to figure out what I am
>overlooking.
>
>
I don't believe that the construction manual says that the trim knob
should be at the middle of it's travel range when trim tab is neutral (at
least it shouldn't say that).
RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight
operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the
deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel)
Starting with the knob about 1 " out from it's full in position for the
neutral trim position seems to work out about right. Then you can make
small adjustments from there to get the proper amount of displacement up
and down.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
> Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for
>your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical
>items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft
>is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes!
>There is no shame in having a few items that need attention
>caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more
>detailed inspection than ready to fly!
>Stew RV4 Co.
>
>
This may be true, but I wouldn't entirely rely on a DAR or an FAA
inspector to keep me safe. The responsibility for an experimental
amateur built aircraft being airworthy is put upon the builder (this is
part of the reason we are give a restricted flight test period)
It's a sad fact, but with tokays sue happy society many DAR's are
reluctant to raise there liability exposure any higher than they have to
( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he is protected by just
being a government employee).
Many inspectors will tell you this at the time they do their inspection
and issue you your airworthiness cert.
I would more encourage builders with newly finished RV's to use the
services of an EAA technical councilor (if they haven't been already) and
then invite as many experienced (meaning completed and flown an RV) RV
builders that you can find, that would be willing to come and spend 1 to
2 hrs with your airplane. Give them a flashlight, mirror, and a
clipboard with paper and a pen, and leave them alone. Ask them to right
dow any problem or make any comment they like such as a better way to do
something. You can then discuss them later and then "you" can decide
which items need to be corrected. You can use the experience of multiple
builders and see if they flag the same items.
If they don't, then you can ask them about the items one of your other
inspectors made note of, but they didn't. Then in the end you can
evaluate all of the input and make your own decisions.
No builder should have a problem with using this procedure. Regardless
of their background or experience level.
Remember, in the end it is you the builder that is responsible for the
airworthiness of the airplane, and since none of us are perfect we can
all use all the help we can get.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Listers,
I used Dupont's Chroma One on N925RV. After five years + of flying
it still shines. It has held up very well even after repeated exposure
to heavy rain at cruise speeds. There are a few spots that have chipped
due to belt buckle encounters, and a few more chipped spots due to poor
prep prior to painting, but otherwise, it still look like new......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DiMeo, Robert [SMTP:Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
>
>
>
>
> The Dupont equivalent is Chroma One. I did my Comanche about five
> years
> ago and it still holds a really nice shine. It's a little softer than
> Imron
> and IMHO doesn't chip so easily.
> I plan to use it on my "8" when the time comes.
> Remember that whatever you use, use the whole system. Don't mix
> manufacturers or systems within manufacturer lines and you should get
> good
> results.
>
> Bob
> RV8 #423 working on wings.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Digital Gauges |
Dave Mumert points out a web site showing some interesting digital gauges at
www.dakotadigital.com/products/home.htm Can someone advise how their tach
gauge would be hooked to a Lycoming with magnetos? here is a quote from
their manual which is posted on the site. Unfortunately this goes right
over my head. Thanks.
"Connecting to tach signal:
For point or pointless distributors, connect the gray wire for the tach
signal to the negative side of the coil. For GM HEI ignition systems,
connect the gray wire to the tach output on the distributor. On MSD ignition
systems connect to the tach output terminal, if a terminal is not provided,
follow the instructions included with the MSD system. With other aftermarket
ignition systems, follow the instructions provided with the ignition for a
voltage, pulse sensing tachometer. For newer vehicles which already provide
a tachometer signal, consult the service manual to determine wire color and
location."
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Yohannes Kayir <yohannkayir(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
Fellow Denver area Listers,
on December 18 I will be starting a family trip to Colorado for 2 weeks.
During the first week we will be in the Southwest (Telluride/Ouray) area. We
will spend the second week (December 25-31) staying with my inlaws in Denver.
I would very much like to visit with fellow RV'ers. Naturally reciprocation
here in Pensacola goes without saying. In fact you may want to plan your next
Sun and Fun trip such that you can stop and stay with us on your way down or up.
Yohannes Kayir
Pensacola, FL
RV-4, Canopy/skirts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Good advise EXCEPT for ">( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he
is protected by just being a government employee)."
Government employees are not protected. One of the basic reasons for all
our weird FAR, AC and AD regulations. They have to CTA.
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection
>
>
>> Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for
>>your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical
>>items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft
>>is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes!
>>There is no shame in having a few items that need attention
>>caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more
>>detailed inspection than ready to fly!
>>Stew RV4 Co.
>>
>>
>This may be true, but I wouldn't entirely rely on a DAR or an FAA
>inspector to keep me safe. The responsibility for an experimental
>amateur built aircraft being airworthy is put upon the builder (this is
>part of the reason we are give a restricted flight test period)
>It's a sad fact, but with tokays sue happy society many DAR's are
>reluctant to raise there liability exposure any higher than they have to
>( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he is protected by just
>being a government employee).
>
>Many inspectors will tell you this at the time they do their inspection
>and issue you your airworthiness cert.
>
>I would more encourage builders with newly finished RV's to use the
>services of an EAA technical councilor (if they haven't been already) and
>then invite as many experienced (meaning completed and flown an RV) RV
>builders that you can find, that would be willing to come and spend 1 to
>2 hrs with your airplane. Give them a flashlight, mirror, and a
>clipboard with paper and a pen, and leave them alone. Ask them to right
>dow any problem or make any comment they like such as a better way to do
>something. You can then discuss them later and then "you" can decide
>which items need to be corrected. You can use the experience of multiple
>builders and see if they flag the same items.
>If they don't, then you can ask them about the items one of your other
>inspectors made note of, but they didn't. Then in the end you can
>evaluate all of the input and make your own decisions.
>
>No builder should have a problem with using this procedure. Regardless
>of their background or experience level.
>Remember, in the end it is you the builder that is responsible for the
>airworthiness of the airplane, and since none of us are perfect we can
>all use all the help we can get.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
<< RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight
operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the
deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >>
Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to shim the
LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having the
trim tab in trail during cruise. Right now the wing is at 1 deg positive
incidence and the horizontal stab is at 1/2 degree positive incidence. The
engine thrust line is at zero degrees and all the weight and balance figures
are smack in the middle of the permissible range. In this condition I still
need the trim tab up about 3/8" at the TE in order not to climb in cruise. I
will try some down pitch in the engine thrust line at some future time.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for
training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how
to fly.
Does the original poster have a pilot's license?
thanks,
- Ian
>
>Ahhh, why not by a used RV?
>
>I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV...
>
>If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an
>RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you something
>very different from the plane you are building.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried
2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig -
they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are
laminated products $pecial order?
-Larry
RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute
http://larry.bowen.com
> >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig
> >
> >
> > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing
wing
> >jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
> >
> >Chris Santschi.
> >Festus, MO.
>
> I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling
was
> about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes.
I
> turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the
bottom
> and the top. (Use metal gussets).
>
> So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the
top
> of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you
criss-cross
> guy wires in the back of the jig.
>
> Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around.
>
> It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and
doesn't
> get in the way (mostly).
>
> Bill Watson
> RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires)
> Mountain View CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
>
>I haven't got a hand held, but after trying to read a map in my RV4 in
bumpy
>weather, I can just imagine trying to use a handheld and flying the plane
>at the same time.
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
Jim's right, it's tough to read a hand held and fly if you hold it in your
hand. I have a Lawrance hand held with a yoke mount in my Cessna and that
mount gives it the benefit of a panel mount except for the wires strung
around to the antenna and power.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for
>training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how
>to fly.
Better get out your checkbook for that emp kit!
Something that handles like an RV may not be the optimum aircraft for
initial flight training, but many have done just that in aircraft they
have built.
Experimentals cannot be used commercially (like, rented) but nothing
prohibits their use in training, even if you pay the CFI. You just have
to find the right CFI!
Happy building!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Plane to fly
>
>
> It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for
> training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how
> to fly.
that is not correct. it cannot be used commercially. if you own the
plane, then that is private use, not commercial use, to have the instructor
instruct you in your own plane.
i think it would be a shame to build a plane and then not be able to
fly it yourself, so i'd recommend you get your license before you
expect the project to finish... but it'd be a much greater shame to build
a plane and then find out you can't get a license to fly it at all (for
medical reason or whatever).
the easiest route is probably to buy any functional dual-control plane
that will hold its value, to learn in, then sell it once your homebuilt
is complete.
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
>>RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight
>>operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the
>>deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >>
>
>Not in my experience, Scott.
Mine either. In Suzie Q (a -4) the trim lever IS in the middle of the travel
range at solo cruise and the trim tab is neutral The elevator balance rides
about 1/8" above the leading edge of the horizontal at cruise speed. When
loaded with PIB and baggage, the trim is, of course, nose down to compensate
but the balance still doesn't ride that much higher. I took great pains to
make sure my horizontal was alligned per plans (measure, measure, measure ad
nauseam) and still fretted it wasn't close enough. Flight testing showed it
was pretty close.
Flying, I have found I haven't used more than maybe 35% of the trim tab
travel available. I have never found the need for much nose-down trim and
only use much nose-up in slow flight and landing configuration. Even then,
it isn't much travel; never have been to either limit. SO: maybe all the
travel available is not needed. PROBLEM is, you won't know until you fly
which direction of travel you won't use much of. There was a thread once
where a -4 ran OUT of nose down trim with any weight in the back. Something
wasn't right; wings or horizontal not positioned right.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two, this love affair
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Peterson <pwpeterson(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Searching for a PSRU |
Hello all,
I'm using a Mazda 13B in my RV8 and am looking for a Ross Aero PSRU.
I'm hoping that someone has one, or knows some one with one for sale.
Can any one help?
Paul
please reply off list to: pwpeterson(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "spud12" <spud12(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Austin Area RV's |
Hello all -
I've been lurking out here for a while, and am very close to placing my
order. My initial inclination was towards the 4, but after a visit to this
year's reunion along with my wife, it appears that the 6 will be the
politically correct option. Which is fine.
My reason for this post - I'll be in the Austin, Tx. area over Christmas,
visiting with my retired Air Force fighter type father, and my current
Marine FA-18 type brother. They've been listening to me yap about RV's for
some time now, and I'd like to show them what all my excitement is about.
Anyone in the Austin area with a flying RV that would be willing to let us
crawl around his or her baby for a bit? The folks live in Georgetown.
TIA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | private pilot license question |
From: | Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What
additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+
horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
Reply off list if you wish and thanks for the information.
Cheers, Paul Lein
RV6A, IO-360
flying next summer..really..I think
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
>
>Where does one get high-end wood products?
Larry
I made mine from 2" X 3" rectangle steel tube and bolted on a 4" strip of
1/2 " particle board on the side so I could draw lines, drill holes, set
alignment brackets, etc. When the particle board gets too battered, put on a
new piece. To attach the horz bar to the uprights I just welded 2" of a 4"
piece of 2" x 0.25" onto the sides of the ends of horz bar and then put a
bolt through the unwelded ends and the uprights.
The steel tube doesn't warp and maintains the vertical and horizonal
settings for alignment. I haven't checked but I would guess that the steel
is less expensive than wood of a quality necessary to build jigs.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulley Size |
> the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like
> 6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator.
> Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes
> with the alternator and made for automotive use.
> Comments? Should I change this?
Believe Electric Bob answered this a while back.
Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM.
It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer while
in automotive use.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Elevator trim/ wing incidence |
<< Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to shim
the
LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having the
trim tab in trail during cruise. Right now the wing is at 1 deg positive
incidence and the horizontal stab is at 1/2 degree positive incidence. The
engine thrust line is at zero degrees and all the weight and balance figures
are smack in the middle of the permissible range. In this condition I still
need the trim tab up about 3/8" at the TE in order not to climb in cruise. I
will try some down pitch in the engine thrust line at some future time. >>
You will reduce available thrust if you do that- fwd thrust will be a vector
of engine thrust. Reset your stab again for optimal results.
As I recall, you have an above std HP engine? The higher cruise speed from
this configuration will certainly result in a smaller degree of incidence
necessary at the main wing. You can see this in your case due to the nose-
down trim necessary in cruise flight. The Rockets seem to like 3/4 deg at the
wing, with 1/2 deg at the h stab for good cruise at 10,000 msl. It sounds like
this would work for you, but changing the wing incidence at this point would
be......difficult.
Cruising at a higher altitude (lower IAS and power) would be another option...
An interesting experiment would be for you to climb to an altitude where full
power (or more likely, a comfortable fuel flow) would allow you to have
neutral trim- how high would that be?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An
experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a commercial
purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give
instruction.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
Larry,
I think your best served by avoiding solid lumber all together. Even
kiln dried, pressure treated lumber will move (warp, curl). That is a
natural property of wood and cannot be avoided unless you have a
perfectly temperature and humidity controlled workspace. (Something
like the new space station might work. :))
Although I did make the uprights on my jig out of pressure treated 2X4s
I made the horizontal piece for my jib by constructing a box beam out of
5/8 AC plywood. Plywood is dimensionally stable and will remain
relatively straight. I constructed mine using an 8' sheet of plywood.
Out of that I cut three 4' wide pieces, one for the top and each side.
I left the bottom of my beam open, but you could close it if you like
which will give a better clamping surface. I then glued and screwed the
pieces together forming a beam with the better side of the plywood
facing outward. In order to make it long enough, I spliced an extra
foot or so onto each piece, which goes on the inside of the beam. No
need to get fancy with it. Your beam will look like an upside down U
when you are done. Make sure you countersink the screws so they don't
scratch anything, and sand the top. You can attack the beam to the
uprights using any of a number of methods. I attached a wooden cleat to
the uprights and screwed the beam to them. This has stayed perfectly
straight and level despite being in an unheated garage in rainy Oregon.
I currently have my horizontal stab sitting on mine and didn't have to
shim any of the brackets when I screwed them on.
I would use the same material to a free standing jig. With plywood you
can made the ends any shape you need to to provide strength and it's
cheap.
Regards,
Doug Hormann
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried
> 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig -
> they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are
> laminated products $pecial order?
>
> -Larry
> RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute
> http://larry.bowen.com
>
> > >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig
> > >
>
> > >
> > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing
> wing
> > >jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
> > >
> > >Chris Santschi.
> > >Festus, MO.
> >
> > I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling
> was
> > about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes.
> I
> > turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the
> bottom
> > and the top. (Use metal gussets).
> >
> > So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the
> top
> > of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you
> criss-cross
> > guy wires in the back of the jig.
> >
> > Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around.
> >
> > It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and
> doesn't
> > get in the way (mostly).
> >
> > Bill Watson
> > RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires)
> > Mountain View CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes:
> What additional endorsements to your license
> did you need to add? One for 200+
> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
None!
If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following:
retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will
need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp)
and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
I purchased the Apollo GX 65 for my panel
The difference is a gas display readable in sunlight for one. Then I also
have intercom and 740 channel radio all in a 2 x 6 inch space. It is
certified for enroute and terminal also. Got it thru Vans for 2740.00 as
I remember, this past summer.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
O
> My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference
>between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ?
>Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ?
>They seem to do the same job.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
This has changed in recent years ('97?)
1998 FARs state:
FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes
[...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a
controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs.
FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance
airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower) --
doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below.
There is also a grandfather clause for those with complex or hi-perf
experience before August 4, 1997.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
>
>In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes:
>
>> What additional endorsements to your license
>> did you need to add? One for 200+
>> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>
>
>None!
>
>If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the
following:
>retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will
>need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp)
>and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
>
> Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried
> 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig -
> they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes.
I'm not really a wood expert but as a former Simpson Timber Company engineer I'm
no layman either. If we get real serious a close friend is a forestry grad and
very expert so I could ask him.
Use real old dry lumber or cut strips of plywood to make boards and laminate
them.
Kiln dried lumber is essentially clamped in position when dried. It is then
planed to finish dimension but can move around when humidity changes. If you
get old wood with nice straight grain and keep humidity constant you should be
okay. Plywood (better grades like AC exterior) is very stable, even wet.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Engine Fuel Pump |
I sent this earlier, but did not see appear, so I will try again.
Can anyone out there tell me something about the engine fuel pump. Such
as, if the mecanical engine pump fails will always bypass so as to use the
electric pump to feed?
Sometime ago some listners suggested to "tee" the electric fuel pump line
in just before the carb and thereby bypassing a potential problem by giving
the fuel an alternate route around the mechnical engine pump. I made a
plan for that, however that would leave the electric fuel pump line
unfiltered. I go to a filters for both line. Is this over done idea?
It is another great building day today!
Denny, RV-6, Nearer done than not!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulley Size |
In a message dated 12/3/98 12:37:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
<< Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM.
It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer while
in automotive use. >>
It does matter from the standpoint of HP consumed. It will absorb a little
less HP running slower.
Regards, Merle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Starter Ring gear change |
Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 tooth to
improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, RV-3A with
slow cranking 0-320....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld |
Concerning the handheld GPS--have you considered building them into your
instrument panel or console or armrest. Maybe have a swing away door so the
unit can be accessed for use in another vehicle. I have seen several done this
way and it looks neat and works great. The Garmin 90 and the new GPS 3 in
particular lend themselves to this set up. The GPS 3 can be fitted into the
panel such that it looks like a tiny panel mount. The hand-helds are the way
to go--just my opinion--I do not hold mine--I surface mounted my Garmin 90 to
my panel --also a viable method of securing them to the panel. That way I can
pop it out for a hike in a flash or to navigate around Oshkosh for the
directionally challenged. The handhelds are cheaper and useable in multiple
missions. They have excellent capabilities and great displays and neat
features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that
will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most of
us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this
obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the
audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me)
and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand held CD
player plugged into his fancy AMP sounded no different than the CD player that
was the obligatory 17 and 3/4 inches wide by 14 inches deep and of course
BLACK with lots of flashing lights. Standing by for the torpedoes--damm the
torpedoes -- full speed ahead. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulley Size |
At Lycoming's 2700 rpm??? My little Mazda RX7 has a small pulley and the engine
is
nearly always running faster than 2700 and red lines at 7000.
There are lots of dishonest folks ready to sell us things we don't need.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
I am the original poster. I do not have a license yet, and my understanding
is that you can learn to fly in an experimental as long as you are
"providing" the aircraft. However an experimental cannot be hired for
training. The one exception is the Seager plane up in Oregon that falls
under some special provision having to do with safety and training in a
plane similar to one that a builder is building. Its all in the archives.
What I am looking for is a mild mannered training plane to build up my
confidence and experience so that when it comes time for that RV grin, it
wont be wiped out by sheer terror of flying such a great performance
vehicle. I just want to be prudent about the whole experience, and work on
confidence level in flying. I'm not sixteen anymore and I know that
knowledge comes with experience and that you have to walk before you fly.At
>
>It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for
>training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how
>to fly.
>
>Does the original poster have a pilot's license?
>
>thanks,
>- Ian
>
>
>>
>>Ahhh, why not by a used RV?
>>
>>I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV...
>>
>>If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an
>>RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you
something
>>very different from the plane you are building.
>>
>
>
>
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
I used #1 Kiln Dried Ceder for mine, and they stayed perfectly straight, and a
year later they are still straight. The jig is now being used to build the tail
for another 8. I used all 2X4's, and screwed & glued them together to make
4X4's. I also used them in a humid workshop that was airconditioned while I
worked at night, but was in the 80's all day, so there were wide temp swings. I
paid $20 per 10ft 2X4 from a local wood distributor. I searched far and wide to
find these things, and when I did find them I made sure I would be allowed to
hand pick the boards. Home Depot said they could order me a synthetic 2X4 that
was made of some type of plastic and would not change shape at all, but I never
followed up.
Good luck, hope this helps.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
Gary,
You might want to review the 1998 FARs. The old complex aircraft
endorsement has been split into two different endorsements for complex
and high performance. If your airplane has a 200 hp engine, you now
need to have a high performance endorsement regardless of any other
attributes. Retractible gear, CS, flaps require a complex endorsement.
Doug Hormann
RV6junkie(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> 37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes:
>
> > What additional endorsements to your license
> > did you need to add? One for 200+
> > horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>
> None!
>
> If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following:
> retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will
> need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp)
> and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
I have a Garmin GPS III, and always had a hell of a time reading it when it was
velcroed to the dash on the airplane. Recently, I found a Samsonite Cell phone
mount in Walmart for $20. It has a suction cup that attaches firmly with a lever
action, and a clamp assembly mounted on an adjustable stalk. It hold the GPS in
any position I want, at any angle, and can attach to the windshield wherever I
place it. This allows me to mount it much closer to my face, and made all the
difference. This past weekend I gave it a stress test by doing a loop and it
held fine. It stayed attached to the plane all day, even during a 1 hr flight
directly into a red hot sun where the suction cup got pretty hot. Like I said,
it's made by "Samsonite" and Walmart carries them in the automotive dept. It
totally changed my opinion on the GPS III. A week ago I would have told you it
was too hard to read the small screen.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>Jim Nice asked how this applied to throttle body injection. FAR 23.1093
>says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components
>on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of providing a
>heat rise of 75 deg.F when the engine is operating at 75 percent of its
>maximum continuous power" I have never looked at a throttle body injection
>system, but this description might fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
from carburation but from a functional point of view, they sure look just
about the same to me. If I had a throttle-body injection system I would
want a regular carb heat system so the above FAR makes a whole bunch of sense.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
> > What additional endorsements to your license
> > did you need to add? One for 200+
> > horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>
>
> None!
>
> If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following:
> retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will
> need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp)
> and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft.
as a current student pilot, i can tell you that the definition of a
high-performance aircraft is either the combination of flaps, retractable
gear, and controllable propeller (all 3 are necessary); OR 200 hp. so
anyone building an RV-8 with a 200 hp engine, or a harmon rocket, should
have a high-performance signoff in their logbook. no other RV should
require a high-performance signoff (unless you're like that canadian
guy and build a retractable-gear RV, but i'm guessing most won't be
doing that).
in fact, looking at my logbook right now, i can find where i'll (eventually)
get the signoff for "high performance" airplanes, but i don't see any
mention of "complex" airplanes. it isn't listed among the endorsements in
my standard pilot log book
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine Fuel Pump |
<< Can anyone out there tell me something about the engine fuel pump. Such
as, if the mechanical engine pump fails will always bypass so as to use the
electric pump to feed?
>>
Not always. Some install a mech. pump bypass, which has to include a 1-way
valve in the bypass loop. No other changes to the system.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
The key words in the below section of the FAR's are "MORE THAN". The RV's
that do not have retractable landing gear are not "COMPLEX" aircraft. As
far as I know that's ALL but one RV-4. The below section refers to
"HIGH-PERFORMANCE" aircraft which a Harmon Rocket is or any RV with "more
than" 200 HP. AL
FAR part 61.31Sec:
(f) Additional training required for operating high-performance airplanes.
(1) Except as provided in paragraph (f)(2) of this section, no person may
act as pilot in command of a high-performance airplane (an airplane with an
engine of more than 200 horsepower), unless the person has--
(i) Received and logged ground and flight training from an authorized
instructor in a high-performance airplane, or in a flight simulator or
flight training device that is
representative of a high-performance airplane, and has been found
proficient in the
operation and systems of the airplane; and
(ii) Received a one-time endorsement in the pilot's logbook from an
authorized instructor who certifies the person is proficient to operate a
high-performance airplane.
(2) The training and endorsement required by paragraph (f)(1) of this
section is not
required if the person has logged flight time as pilot in command of a
high-performance airplane, or in a flight simulator or flight training
device that is representative of a high-performance airplane prior to
August 4, 1997.
>
>Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What
>additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+
>horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>Reply off list if you wish and thanks for the information.
>Cheers, Paul Lein
>RV6A, IO-360
>flying next summer..really..I think
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | RED DOT ON TIRES |
I've always placed the valve stem of the tube close to the red dot on
the tire when replacing tires on my airplane. Am I doing it right.
> Jim Nolan
>N444JN
>
yellow or white (if marked) or valve core = the tubes heavy point
red mark on tire = lightest point.
put the marks together when mounting the tire.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Digital Gauges |
>
>Can someone advise how their tach
>gauge would be hooked to a Lycoming with magnetos?
>
>"Connecting to tach signal:
>
>For point or pointless distributors, connect the gray wire for the tach
>signal to the negative side of the coil.
This means that it should work if you connect it to the P-lead. The
negative side of the coil of a Kettering type ignition system (points,
condenser, coil, battery) generates a signal when the points open very
similar to the signal at the P-lead. The only fly in the ointment is that
I believe that the polarity reverses on alternate point openings of a
magneto so you would see both positive and negative pulses at the P-lead
but there are a number of electronic tachs that work just fine so it
shouldn't be a problem.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
Gary said:
<< You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An
experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a
commercial
purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give
instruction. >>
The exception, of course, is the Crew Training category which Van's factory
aircraft are licensed under, so that Mike S. can give dual instruction in them
for hire. Admitedly, not many homebuilts are licensed in that category.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
> 1998 FARs state:
> FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes
> [...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a
> controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs.
>
> FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance
> airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower) --
> doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below.
is that why the -8 is designed to handle up to 200 hp, so you won't need
another signoff? (for that matter, is that why lycoming makes a 200 hp
engine, to just touch the limit there?)
how do they determine whether an engine is over or under the 200 hp limit?
i would think it would be easy to boost an IO-360 up to 201. do they
have some way to measure or calculate the actual power of each engine,
or do they go by the manufacturers' ratings?
> >> What additional endorsements to your license
> >> did you need to add? One for 200+
> >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
i don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph
require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license)
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA44)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jigs |
Larry,
I went to Home Depot and had them cut 1 1/2 " galv. pipe for an "H" frame
using steel flanges
to attach to the floor and ceiling and attached a good pc of fir 6"X 105"
for a shelf to mount
the Avery brackets. Its not free standing, but the cost was less than $100,
and it's straight.
I clamped 2x6x10 to support the wings. I build the entire jig in 3 hrs.
Doug Gardner
RV-8A "Maggie O'Connell" # 80717
Closing port wing
Palm Harbor Florida
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Hormann [SMTP:dhormann(at)gte.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 12:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Free Standing Jigs
>
>
> Larry,
>
> I think your best served by avoiding solid lumber all together. Even
> kiln dried, pressure treated lumber will move (warp, curl). That is a
> natural property of wood and cannot be avoided unless you have a
> perfectly temperature and humidity controlled workspace. (Something
> like the new space station might work. :))
>
> Although I did make the uprights on my jig out of pressure treated 2X4s
> I made the horizontal piece for my jib by constructing a box beam out of
> 5/8 AC plywood. Plywood is dimensionally stable and will remain
> relatively straight. I constructed mine using an 8' sheet of plywood.
> Out of that I cut three 4' wide pieces, one for the top and each side.
> I left the bottom of my beam open, but you could close it if you like
> which will give a better clamping surface. I then glued and screwed the
> pieces together forming a beam with the better side of the plywood
> facing outward. In order to make it long enough, I spliced an extra
> foot or so onto each piece, which goes on the inside of the beam. No
> need to get fancy with it. Your beam will look like an upside down U
> when you are done. Make sure you countersink the screws so they don't
> scratch anything, and sand the top. You can attack the beam to the
> uprights using any of a number of methods. I attached a wooden cleat to
> the uprights and screwed the beam to them. This has stayed perfectly
> straight and level despite being in an unheated garage in rainy Oregon.
> I currently have my horizontal stab sitting on mine and didn't have to
> shim any of the brackets when I screwed them on.
>
> I would use the same material to a free standing jig. With plywood you
> can made the ends any shape you need to to provide strength and it's
> cheap.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Hormann
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried
> > 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig -
> > they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are
> > laminated products $pecial order?
> >
> > -Larry
> > RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute
> > http://larry.bowen.com
> >
> > > >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig
> > > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing
> > wing
> > > >jig, has anybody had any luck with this.
> > > >
> > > >Chris Santschi.
> > > >Festus, MO.
> > >
> > > I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling
> > was
> > > about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes.
> > I
> > > turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the
> > bottom
> > > and the top. (Use metal gussets).
> > >
> > > So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the
> > top
> > > of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you
> > criss-cross
> > > guy wires in the back of the jig.
> > >
> > > Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around.
> > >
> > > It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and
> > doesn't
> > > get in the way (mostly).
> > >
> > > Bill Watson
> > > RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires)
> > > Mountain View CA
> >
>
>
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld |
JR,
Dont have any personal experience flying with a handheld in an RV, but
polled a lot of RV pilots at the various airshows/fly-ins I attended this
past year, and I'd say the flying public agrees with you. Based on that I
bought an Airmap 100 which Ive used a few times with yoke mount in the spam
that I rent and I love it.
I also plan to build a recessed mount into my panel. One thing I would add
(again based on my poll) is to mount the unit center and as high in the
panel as possible to minimize viewing problems. A number of guys told me
they wished they had located their compass off to the side of the panel and
their handheld GPS top center. Thats what Im gonna do.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>Concerning the handheld GPS--have you considered building them into your
>instrument panel or console or armrest. Maybe have a swing away door so the
>unit can be accessed for use in another vehicle. I have seen several done
this
>way and it looks neat and works great. The Garmin 90 and the new GPS 3 in
>particular lend themselves to this set up. The GPS 3 can be fitted into the
>panel such that it looks like a tiny panel mount. The hand-helds are the way
>to go--just my opinion--I do not hold mine--I surface mounted my Garmin 90 to
>my panel --also a viable method of securing them to the panel. That way I can
>pop it out for a hike in a flash or to navigate around Oshkosh for the
>directionally challenged. The handhelds are cheaper and useable in multiple
>missions. They have excellent capabilities and great displays and neat
>features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that
>will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most of
>us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this
>obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the
>audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me)
>and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand
held CD
>player plugged into his fancy AMP sounded no different than the CD player
that
>was the obligatory 17 and 3/4 inches wide by 14 inches deep and of course
>BLACK with lots of flashing lights. Standing by for the torpedoes--damm the
>torpedoes -- full speed ahead. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Hal,
I'm retired from painting now, but when I painted freelance I'd charge anywhere
between 1.5 to 2.5 the material cost, depending on complexity.
Laird
1 more paint job to do....MINE!
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 2:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Laird,
You said: "Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint
plus reducers would be the minimum. "
What would you charge a customer to paint an RV6?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Don,
Any quality paint product will need a....oh, I hate to say it.... a primer. I
use Ditzlers DP50/DP402 Epoxy for anything aluminum, and Ditzler DZ3 lacquer primer
for anything else, like fiberglass.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8?
>Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's
>easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as
>tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or
>Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly
>sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the
>Dupont equivalent is to Deltron.
>
>When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the
>cabinet.
>Just my opinion though.
>
>Laird
>Socal RV-6 finish kit
Do I need to prime under the Deltron? If so, with what?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
>
>Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What
>additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+
>horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
Well, the FAA seems to have the concept of both complex (retractable gear,
controllable pitch prop, flaps) and high-performance (HP > 200). Since
RV's don't have retractable gear I don't think they qualify as "complex"
and since the IO-360 is rated at 200 hp it doesn't qualify as "high
performance." (the engine has to be *greater* than 200 hp to qualify as
high performance.) My opinion (worth every penny you paid for it) is that
you need neither endorsement to fly one of these aircraft.
FAR Sec. 61.31 covers this.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
>
>It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for
>training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how
>to fly.
You may learn to fly in your RV. That is not a problem.
OTOH you may not use an experimental aircraft "for hire" which is what a
flying schools is doing when they rent you an airplane.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
Subject: | Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld |
>
>features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that
>will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most
of
>us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this
>obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the
>audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me)
>and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand held
CD
I agree, I have a bunch of vinyl too .
I've been following this thread with interest, and have to add a somewhat
"middle of the road" solution regarding handheld vs. panel-mount GPS/comm:
I am using a King/Skyforce SkymapII along with an Icom A-200 comm. This
gives an upgradeable, large display, very sunlight readable handheld GPS. I
can then take this unit and plug it into the RV's panel, and now its a panel
mounted GPS (that fully interfaces with autopilots/fuel computers/etc. and
uses the aircrafts built in antenna).
The price was $2200 (including Skymap/Icom/rack mount/airframe GPS antenna).
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picked up Aero Sport engine yesterday and man does it look
good !)
rvsixer(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
In a message dated 12/3/98 2:21:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, dhormann(at)gte.net
writes:
> Gary,
>
> You might want to review the 1998 FARs.
Damn, next you'll tell me that I need to update my 1980 AIM!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
Listers,
In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already,
all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but
on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes?
There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges per
wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to kick
myself if I don't taper it like the others.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
This is not RV related, so hit delete now if you want to.
I just made an impulse buy for an early Christmas present for
myself.
It is Microsoft's new WW 2 combat flight simulator. It is great and so are
the graphics. I bought it because of magazine reports on the game and I am
sure most guys would enjoy it.
I also got Jane's Fighter Anthology (F18s etc.) the best graphics I have
ever seen.
These may be games, but I read in a letter to editor of a flying mag
that the writer used Microsoft Flight Simulator to get aquainted with Bell
Jetranger.
Took him 3 months to learn how to hover, (seems long time), but when he
spent the real dollars for dual time, was able to hover very well and
transitioned quite quickly.
Just a thought for your consideration. Don't tell me none of us want to
fool with these computer games !
Just be sure to fire up the game before you rivet, because after
rivetting, your gun hand may not be as steady......har...har..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Carb / FI Heat |
I just got back from Flying a new C-172 that has an IO-360. This plane does
not have any selector for alternate air or heat. Do the new C-172's have an
automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like
the FAR's would require heat.
Rob Hickman
IO-360 CS RV-4 N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
Dan
As I recall in your original note you asked what plane would be good to
learn in for an RV. Some of the answers got sidetracked into different
threads.
To answer your question. IMHO for a taildragger, a Citrabria would be
good. For a tricylce gear a Grumman TR-2. Both can be used as
trainers. The Grumman is a pretty hot trainer and it is the closest
thing that I have flown to an RV. Looks sort of similar too. But, the
TR2 with a small engine would not work too well at high densisty
altitude, of course neither does a C-150 at 5000' MSL and 95 degrees.
In the flying club I belong to, we have three Citrabria's, and they are
next to impossible to schedule. They are by far the most used aircraft
we have of some 60 planes. I think the Citabria has a fairly good
resale value, lots of fun to fly and you can learn how to fly a
taildragger. Some of the instructors at our club insist on starting
their beginning sudents in the Citabria! If you can land a Citabria,
you should be able to land an RV6 or 6A. Those with more experience
might want to comment on my last statement.
I learned to fly after I started building my RV. Four years later I have
about 200 flying hours, but my RV is still not completed. Maybe if I
spent my flying time on building, I would be done? Just for your info,
getting a license is a lot of time studying (meaning no RV building) and
each flight includes: travel to and from the airport, pre/post checks
and hanger BS time with airport locals. I allocate about 3 hours total
time expended for a one hour flight.
Good luck on the decision.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: How Much Paint for RV-8? |
Von,
I used Imron on my -6 and it took almost two gallons of white. If you use
Imron or if you use hardener in enamel, be sure to use a supplied air
respirator to protect your lungs, a canister respirator will not protect you
from the isocyanurates (sp?) in the paint. Guard your health!
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6....flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Pulley Size |
But it will start generating full output sooner at the higher rpm which is
handy when you have the throttle pulled back when landing at night with
landing lights, pitot heat, etc.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator Pulley Size
>
>In a message dated 12/3/98 12:37:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
6430(at)axion.net
>writes:
>
><< Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM.
> It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer
while
> in automotive use. >>
>It does matter from the standpoint of HP consumed. It will absorb a little
>less HP running slower.
>
>Regards, Merle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Starter Ring gear change |
Get a different and geared starter.
-----Original Message-----
From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 1:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Starter Ring gear change
>
>Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 tooth
to
>improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, RV-3A
with
>slow cranking 0-320....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
Subject: | Panel GPS vs handheld |
there is a good article on the avweb about the use of a handheld gps for ifr
(the link is http://www.avweb.com/articles/pelperch/pelp0011.html ). i have
a lowrance airmap 300, which i really love (especially because it depicts
CTZ's, which not all of them do. i know where the class b airspace is, but
who can keep track of every towered field?) and i am trying to figure out
how to accomodate it in my rv-6a (under construction).
i don't know if this is strictly true, but i have been told that getting an
ifr certification for a panel mount gps is a very arduous process, and most
manufacturers will not allow a do-it-yourself installation. as a result you
can plan on an extra $2-3,000 to the avionics shop, plus a bit more to
interface the unit to an hsi or cdi. then there are the database updates...
all-in-all, this stuff adds up. at the moment, i am leaning towards a dual
comm, single vor/loc/gs, single x-ponder stack with my lowrance as a backup.
i guess none of this matters much if you're building a vfr panel, since
although you will pay a little more for a panel-mount, you could probably
install it yourself.
louis cappucci
rv-6aqb
mamaroneck, ny
> ----------
> From: Robert Acker[SMTP:robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 2:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld
>
>
>
> >
> >features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS
> that
> >will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that
> most
> of
> >us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this
> >obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the
> >audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985
> (me)
> >and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand
> held
> CD
>
> I agree, I have a bunch of vinyl too .
>
> I've been following this thread with interest, and have to add a somewhat
> "middle of the road" solution regarding handheld vs. panel-mount GPS/comm:
>
> I am using a King/Skyforce SkymapII along with an Icom A-200 comm. This
> gives an upgradeable, large display, very sunlight readable handheld GPS.
> I
> can then take this unit and plug it into the RV's panel, and now its a
> panel
> mounted GPS (that fully interfaces with autopilots/fuel computers/etc. and
> uses the aircrafts built in antenna).
>
> The price was $2200 (including Skymap/Icom/rack mount/airframe GPS
> antenna).
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picked up Aero Sport engine yesterday and man does it
> look
> good !)
> rvsixer(at)pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
> +-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
> Gary said:
>
> << You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An
> experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a
> commercial
> purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give
> instruction. >>
>
> The exception, of course, is the Crew Training category which Van's factory
> aircraft are licensed under, so that Mike S. can give dual instruction in them
> for hire. Admitedly, not many homebuilts are licensed in that category.
>
> -Bill B
i think there is exactly one RV-6 that is so licensed. the rest are
research and development, or production prototypes, or factory
demonstrators, and cannot be hired out any more than a homebuilt can.
according to van's, the flying qualities of all the different models
are sufficiently close to each other that the single RV-6 is good enough
for transition training to any RV.
-D-
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
I didn't taper mine and I still like them!
----------
>
>
> Listers,
> In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already,
> all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but
> on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes?
>
> There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges per
> wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to kick
> myself if I don't taper it like the others.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 Prepping wing spars
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Starter Ring gear change |
Cy:Have a Sky-Tec HT geared starter and RG-25 battery almost new....Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: Plane to fly |
>
>Dan
>
>I learned to fly after I started building my RV. Four years later I have
>about 200 flying hours, but my RV is still not completed. Maybe if I
>spent my flying time on building, I would be done? Just for your info,
>getting a license is a lot of time studying (meaning no RV building) and
>each flight includes: travel to and from the airport, pre/post checks
>and hanger BS time with airport locals.
>
>Good luck on the decision.
>
>Bob Busick
>RV-6
>Fremont Ca
>
Not to mention the dent that learning to fly, and staying current puts in
the building budget. I would be much further along if I had waited until
the RV was done before taking the lessons. If I had it to do over I would
wait.
Of course once the flying bug has bit its hard to stay away. I gave up
hang gliding (I'd been flying hang gliders for 10 years at the time) when I
started building and had to get my flying fix some other way. There ought
to be some kind of 12 step program for the temporarily grounded who are
suffering withdrawal symptoms!
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Air filter maintenance |
I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the maintenance of the
air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this; suggested
cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated.
Walt 79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
****SNIP****
> In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already,
> all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but
> on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes?
> >
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 Prepping wing spars
****SNIP***
Mike,
Tappering is optional. The flanges of the nose ribs are riveted to spar
between the spar flange strips and the un-tappered strips will not be in
the way. If I remember correctly, I only tappered them for aproximately
17". Just a little weight savings.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Subject: | Plane buy update |
Thank you to everyone who has sent back advise on purchasing a trainer
while I build. Every comment is truly appreciated.
I do need something docile since I only have 65 hours on my ticket. I
expect to get up to about 200 by the time I finish my "real" plane.
I have a line on a zodiac (the plane I chose not to build) and on a Pulsar
582. I know about the zodiac since I did some research on them, but know
nothing about the Pulsar 582. Any knowledge out there?
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
Hi Everybody!
<< On November 13, 1998 the counter rolled over to 2000 as the 2000th RV
completed was reported to Van's Aircraft. >>
>> Are you keeping the builder anon. or are you going to give him a little
>> publicity in Kitplanes, etc?
Nothing like that planned to my understanding. On Fri the 13th, I believe
there were several completions reported -- who then really is #2000 if you
add several at one time? Also, it wasn't the #2000 RV completed, it was
the 2000th that was reported to Van's, not everybody has reported
completions. FYI, the count is now at 2017.
[Personal note: A little over a month ago, in a preface to a message, it
was pointed out that I might have "insulted [you] all." I had absolutely
no intention of doing this. If you felt insulted, please e-mail me so I
can personally apologize. If you don't know what I am talking about, then
good, never mind...]
Have a great day, happy/merry [insert your holiday here] *<|:-)
~Jeremy :-) :-) :-)
jwb(at)europa.com I speak for myself only. This is a personal message.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Carb / FI Heat |
>I just got back from Flying a new C-172 that has an IO-360. This plane does
>not have any selector for alternate air or heat. Do the new C-172's have an
>automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like
>the FAR's would require heat.
>
>Rob Hickman
Rod,
I just looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the C-172S, the new
one with the IO-360 (available at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol1/3a12.pdf). On page 28 it lists
an Equivalent Safety Item for FAR 23.1093 Induction System Icing
Protection. An Equivalent Safety Item means the the design does not meet
the applicable FAR requirement, but the manufacturer was able to convince
the FAA that the design provides an equivalent level of safety.
I can't comment on this specific case because I am not familiar with the
design, I have not reviewed the engineering justification that supports the
Equivalent Safety Finding, and my area of expertise is flight test, not
powerplant ice protection.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | AV-8 or AV-10 discount |
I will not be buying soon but thought I would pass on this info. to those
who are close. This is from Rod at Audio Flight Avionics.
Ross Mickey
Niner Papa Tango
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Hi Ross,
Sorry for the delay. Win 95 (& Bill Gates) giving me a hard time again. We
are also very busy doing flight testing on our new Airspeed / Altimeter,
while the weather here is good (60 F!).
The remote display dimensional drawings can be downloaded from the Options
section of the Web site.
I can offer a discount for a quantity purchase off the basic systems (less
probes & sensors).
1 unit 2-4 units 5+
AV-8 $699 $600 $550
AV-10 $1,100 $950 $880
2-Line $185 $170 $150
Remote Disp.
4- Line $225 $200 $190
Remote Disp.
If you need any more details, give me a call or E-mail.
Regards,
Rod
Audio Flight Avionics
"First in Voice Alerting Engine Monitors"
Toll Free 1-800-737-9185 (USA & CAN)
Local (416) 698-6928
E-mail, afa(at)rose.com
Internet Web-site
http://www.rose.com/~afa
Take care of all your engine monitoring needs in one 3 1/8" gauge, that you
don't have to look at.
Actual voice message will get your attention when a limit has been exceeded!
Programmable limits on all parameters. It's a gauge and a scanner.
(over 30 functions / incl. fuel flow & totalizer, rotor rpm, twin engines,
24 thermocouple inputs, data logging, etc.)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
*****************************************************************************
Complex and High performance sign off do not apply to homebuilts.
*****************************************************************************
In other cases, there are potentially TWO (2) sign offs. If you fly a Piper
Retract. Arrow of 200 HP (High performance is OVER 200 HP), you need a Complex
sign off only (in fact, you can not get a High Performance Sign off in an
retract. Arrow with 200 HP). If you fly a Comanchee 250 HP, you need both a
High Performance and Complex sign off. This applies if you do not meet the
grandfather dates for either.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | alternator pulley size |
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: Progressive Air <proair(at)mail.ocis.net>
Subject: alternator pulley size
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 14:23:46 -0800
Listers; I am forwarding Bart at Aero Sport Power's response to the
alternator pulley question.
Von,
In answer to your question.
There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were
designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow
full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft
Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be
turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best.
Regards,
Aero Sport Power
Bart Lalonde
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
The alternator turns 9572 rpm at 2700 rpm engine speed.
(engine pulley = 9.75" / alternator pulley 2.75") X 2700 rpm = 9572 rpm.
Wayne RV-4 baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
>says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components
*** >on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of
providing a***
>
> >From a legalistic point of view, throttle-body injection may be different
> from carburation but from a functional point of view, they sure look just
> about the same to me. If I had a throttle-body injection system I would
> want a regular carb heat system so the above FAR makes a whole bunch of sense.
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
***What is "impact" ice?
It sounds like they are talking about the induction system inhaling ice.
I've not flown a plane with thottle body injection, but the 2 I've flown
with port injection had spring loaded (automatic) alternate air doors
which opened into the lower cowling, so that if the cowl intake ices up
(effectively airframe ice), the engine could breathe from the lower cowl
air.
I've always thought that "carb ice" was just that: ice formed in the
carb by the temperature drop due to the venturi effect of reduced
pressure in the carb throat. If the throttle body injector is truly an
injector, then it shouldn't need the venturi pressure drop (and
resultant temperature drop) used by a carb to draw fuel from the bowl.
Comments?
Charlie
RV-4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Air filter maintenance |
>
> I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the
maintenance of the
> air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this;
suggested
> cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated.
>
> Walt 79WH
Walt:
Recommond purchasing the Fliter Recharge Kit from Van's for $5.50.
Order number: EA K&N 99-5050 Kit. Everything you need is included.
I took my filter off when I had about 200 hours. It was still quite
clean and could have went longer. I will only be cleaning mine about
once a year for now on.
Looks like I will be leaving the plane in Jackson for another week.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Starter Ring gear change |
>
> Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149
tooth to
> improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown,
RV-3A with
> slow cranking 0-320....
Jim:
I replaced the 122 with a 149 when I rebuilt the engine. There is no
difference in cranking speed. I wanted the 149 as there are more
Lycomings out there configured that way. I am able to borrow a spare
from a friend while I get mine repaired.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Carb / FI Heat |
In a message dated 12/3/98 1:31:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RobHickman(at)aol.com writes:
<< Do the new C-172's have an
automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like
the FAR's would require heat. >>
Maybe they are using two sources at the same time that are large enough to be
the "sole source" should one become blocked.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Cinical mounts 0-320 |
This list is great!!!! My thanks to Mike Seager and Mark Todd who
responded to my post a couple of months ago on engine vibrations. I guess
Murphys law prevailed. The last thing you check is the culprit. I had a
roughness/vibration at about 3 different power/prop combinations (
0-320-160 hp/Hartzell C/S ) Through a process of elimination from removing
wheel pants/gearleg fairings to checking valve lifters, push rods, valve
adjustments, wiring harnesses, mags, timing to turning the prop 180
degrees and a dynamic prop balance. The last thing we checked and replaced
were the rubber engine mounts. When my engine was to be installed (1993)
we phoned a supply shop and ordered new mounts for an 0-320 B3B engine. We
thought they would know which mounts to send us. I had a qualified person
to help install the engine. I didn't know any better so we installed the
soft rubber donuts that were for a conical mount engine. I have never been
really happy but no one seemed to be able to sort out this problem. I
thought that maybe I was just being to fussy, but I was uncomfortable. I
did my test flight yesterday and what a difference! I had the wrong rubber
engine mounts. Any of you putting in a 0-320 conical mount engine should
consider using the following :
Lord J 6230-1 mount. Torque to 350 to 450 inch pounds . Four sets required
at about $78.00 per set from Chief Aircraft.
Thanks Mike and Todd
Ken Hoshowski
RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
Check out this RV 6 if you want. Only 41K for a limited time.
http://www.redrock.net/thomas/brad/index.html
Brad Bundy Flying Chard built RV6
bundyb(at)infowest.com
----------
> From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Plane buy update
> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 4:12 PM
>
>
> Thank you to everyone who has sent back advise on purchasing a trainer
> while I build. Every comment is truly appreciated.
>
> I do need something docile since I only have 65 hours on my ticket. I
> expect to get up to about 200 by the time I finish my "real" plane.
>
> I have a line on a zodiac (the plane I chose not to build) and on a
Pulsar
> 582. I know about the zodiac since I did some research on them, but know
> nothing about the Pulsar 582. Any knowledge out there?
>
>
> Dan Wiesel
> RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working
> skins on.....awaiting finishing kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 2:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Taper Them All?
>
>
Mike:
No need to taper those long spar flanges. the cutouts in the leading edge
ribs are sized to fit that flange. Do yourself a favor and do not taper
them.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
Rv6A 25171
wings
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
I received my RV-6A QB kit 20 Jan. '98. In Sept., I sent in the following:
AC Form 8050-1 Aircraft Registration Application
$5.00 to U. S. Treasurer(Must accompany the above form)
AC Form 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership For Amateur-Built
Aircraft(Notarized)
AC Form 8050-110 Confirmation of Reservation of US Registration
Number
Form(I had previously applied for and was issued a reserved number)
A cover letter stating that I wanted to apply for Aircraft Registration,
the
Registration Number that I wanted assigned(my reserved number)the
serial
number that I was assigning to the aircraft, manufacturer name(me)and
model
number(RV-6A), Manufacturer, model and serial number of the engine
and
that it is a two place, single-engine land-craft.
Within about 30 days I received my Aircraft Registration Form
completed just
as I had requested.
About 30 days later I received a letter from the AZ DOT(Dept. of
Theft)not as
requested.
The FAA did not request any drawings, photos or any other documents
as
some have suggested.
At Oshkosh I stopped by the FAA building and picked up the required
forms
to accomplish what I have just described. The person that "briefed"
me
stated that after Sept. 30, 1998, AC Form 8050-2 Aircraft Bill of
Sale will be
required when making application for registration. So I decided to
hurry my
application and meet that dead-line, as I see that(Bill of Sale Form
require-
ment)as another way that the FEDS are assisting the states with
their tax
collection program.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Air filter maintenance |
>
>I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the maintenance
>of the
>air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this;
>suggested
>cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated.
>
>Walt 79WH
>
>
>
Be sure and heed the warnings that came with the instructions with the
K&N filter in the FAB kit.
The filter media is cotton and can be easily damaged by some cleaning
techniques and by some chemicals.
The biggest no-no is compressed air. It can blow voids or thin spots
into the media that you can't see which would severely degrade its
filtering ability.
The best advice is that you get a cleaning/recharge kit from Van's or any
other K&N dealer and follow the instructions exactly.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
>Von,
>
>In answer to your question.
>
>There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were
>designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still
>allow
>full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft
>Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be
>turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best.
>
>Regards,
>
>Aero Sport Power
>
>Bart Lalonde
>
Hi Bart,
Good to see you on the list. Your engine knowledge will be of great
value.
To add another idea to the alt. pulley issue.
On RV's the cowl to pully clearance is already at the minimum possible to
have a nice streamlined cowl shape. If you use a larger pulley you are
reducing this clearance even further. Depending on the final fit of your
cowling you could end up with pulley to cowl contact. some builders have
this problem even with the small pulley depending on the cowl fit and if
they use too long of an alternator drive belt.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
Hi Mike, Do not taper the long spar pieces, they are to be left as is
with just the very ends finished as per the plans. Dave Ahrens, RV-6A
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
>> >> What additional endorsements to your license
>> >> did you need to add? One for 200+
>> >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>
>I don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph
>require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license)
That's why my airplane has a 199-hp engine and a top speed of 199 mph (for
the FAA.)
For hangar flying, of course, it has 230 hp and goes 230 mph ;
)
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
199 hp, 199 mph RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Cinical mounts 0-320 |
This list is great!!!! My thanks to Mike Seager and Mark Todd who
responded to my post a couple of months ago on engine vibrations. I guess
Murphys law prevailed. The last thing you check is the culprit. I had a
roughness/vibration at about 3 different power/prop combinations (
0-320-160 hp/Hartzell C/S ) Through a process of elimination from removing
wheel pants/gearleg fairings to checking valve lifters, push rods, valve
adjustments, wiring harnesses, mags, timing to turning the prop 180
degrees and a dynamic prop balance. The last thing we checked and replaced
were the rubber engine mounts. When my engine was to be installed (1993)
we phoned a supply shop and ordered new mounts for an 0-320 B3B engine. We
thought they would know which mounts to send us. I had a qualified person
to help install the engine. I didn't know any better so we installed the
soft rubber donuts that were for a conical mount engine. I have never been
really happy but no one seemed to be able to sort out this problem. I
thought that maybe I was just being to fussy, but I was uncomfortable. I
did my test flight yesterday and what a difference! I had the wrong rubber
engine mounts. Any of you putting in a 0-320 conical mount engine should
consider using the following :
Lord J 6230-1 mount. Torque to 350 to 450 inch pounds . Four sets required
at about $78.00 per set from Chief Aircraft.
Thanks Mike and Todd
Ken Hoshowski
RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
>Good advise EXCEPT for ">( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because
he
>is protected by just being a government employee)."
>
>Government employees are not protected. One of the basic reasons for all
>our weird FAR, AC and AD regulations. They have to CTA.
>
Hate to say this, but federal employees ARE bonded and protected. DERs and
etc are NOT
Ron
FAA DER, KC-668
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Angle of Attack Sensor |
Those of you who are considering installing an Angle of Attack Sensor may want
to consider a new version of the top of the line system from Proprietary
Software Systems. Called the AOA Sport, it is an order of magnitude better
than some of the simpler systems being offered at about the same price and
takes up very little panel space. It has no ugly probe, has flap position
sensor, RS 232 outputs, Voice warnings, and other features that none of the
other systems have. I bought one and am very impressed with the system. For
more information, contact Jim Frantz at:
jim@angle-of-attack.com, or (612) 474-4154. Tell Jim that I referred you. I
am not on the list because I need to spend all of my spare time on my
Quickbuild so that I can be at Oshkosh next year. I have no connection to the
company, but like to pass on good information about products that I find are
good values.
Jim Cone
RV-6A Quickbuild
Working on the Instrument Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>>says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components
>*** >on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of
>providing a***
I was commenting more on the need for a certain induction air temp rise
than on whether or not the ice was impact ice.
>***What is "impact" ice?
>
>It sounds like they are talking about the induction system inhaling ice.
Right. Think snow. You are flying in snow (water already turned into ice)
and it whacks into your induction air intake. Enough of the stuff and it
plugs things up.
>I've always thought that "carb ice" was just that: ice formed in the
>carb by the temperature drop due to the venturi effect of reduced
>pressure in the carb throat. If the throttle body injector is truly an
>injector, then it shouldn't need the venturi pressure drop (and
>resultant temperature drop) used by a carb to draw fuel from the bowl.
It isn't the pressure differential that creates the big change in
temperature. Frankly, the temp in the venturi doesn't change a whole lot.
No, the big temp change stems from the heat needed to vaporize the fuel.
That heat comes out of the air and the air temp drops. If you have a carb
air temp guage you can prove this to yourself by getting up fairly high,
checking the carb air temp, pulling out the mixture control to cut off
fuel, and watch what happens to carb air temp. It will rise very close to
the OAT. Oh, and don't forget to push the mixture control back in again
before you get to the ground.
Now why do I want to treat throttle body injection the same as a
carburetor? Well, they look the same to me. A carburetor uses the reduced
pressure in the venturi to draw the fuel from the bowl and spew it into the
airstream upwind from the throttle valve. In throttle body injection a
pump pushs the fuel out the metering jet which spews it into the airstream
(usually) upwind from the throttle valve. The operant phrase here is "spew
it into the airstream..." and it really doesn't matter where the pressure
differential comes from to get the fuel spewing.
As the fuel vaporizes, the temperature drops. If it drops below freezing
and the dewpoint is greater than the final air temperature (gotta turn it
into liquid water in order to freeze) you are going to get ice. (Footnote:
yes you can get it to go directly from gas to solid but that doesn't
usually happen at pressures and temperatures we normally deal with.)
Notice that I didn't mention, "and the fuel was sucked in by low pressure
in a venturi."
You know, we used to call "throttle body injectors" by a different name.
We used to call them "pressure carburetors." And they used to get carb ice
back in those days. I don't think that the ice really cares what we call
the thing metering the fuel into the induction air.
And why don't we have the problem with multipoint injection? Well, you are
spraying the fuel right at the intake valve which, due to its somewhat
close proximity to a source of heat, i.e. the fuel burning in the cylinder,
doesn't give the ice much chance to stay ice. As a matter of fact, I think
the old adage, "about as much chance as a snowball in hell," applies pretty
well here.
>Comments?
Hardly any. :
)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop hub holes |
Just came across your question. If you are trying to use 7/16 bolts instead
of 3/8" you need to press out the drive lugs that are threaded for 3/8 and
press in a set that are 7/16. No machining at all.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Richards <samav8(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: prop hub holes
>
>
>>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998
>>Received: from [207.171.250.179] by hotmail.com (1.0) with SMTP id
>MHotMail30888722143883506532499348415454720850; Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998
>> by matronics.com (8.8.8/Matronics-1.2) id MAA05446
>>From: "L.R. BENTLY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za>
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: prop hub holes
>>Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:53:24 +0200
>>X-Priority: 3
>>Message-ID: <19981118195617.AAA29110(at)jackal.intekom.co.za@default>
>>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>Precedence: bulk
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>>
>>Good day listers . Can anyone out there tell me if and how to enlarge
>the
>>mounting holes on the prop. hub from I think 3/8" to 7/16" , many
>thanks
>>.South Africa RV6 wings .
>> Hello LLoyd, I have never had to to the above operation, so this is
>just a suggestion. Obviously hole positioning in this application is
>critical. It is definitely not a job for a home workshop. The holes
>could be bored with a 7/16" cutter with a 3/8" guide - a similar
>arrangement to the way our microstop countersinks are guided. It
>would be best set up on a mill with a 3-jawed chuck mounted on a
>2-dimensional cross slide for accurate positioning.
>I would be tempted to get a quote from your local Lycoming workshop,
>considering the hassles involved.
>
>Best regards, Sam Richards, RV-6 Newcastle AUS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
>
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
>
>--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
>From: Progressive Air <proair(at)mail.ocis.net>
>To: n41va(at)juno.com
>Subject: alternator pulley size
>Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 14:23:46 -0800
>Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.19981203142346.00686dc4(at)mail.ocis.net>
>
>Listers; I am forwarding Bart at Aero Sport Power's response to the
>alternator pulley question.
>
>Von,
>
>In answer to your question.
>
>There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were
>designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow
>full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft
>Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be
>turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best.
>
>Regards,
>
>Aero Sport Power
>
>Bart Lalonde
>
Hello listers:
To My knowledge;
The prime reason for going to a larger alternator pulley is to reduce the
amount of power used to drive the alternator at unnecessary high speed,
thereby allowing the saved power to be utilized elseware.
I'll leave it to one of the engineering types to try to describe dynamics of
and the amount of power wasteage above six or seven thousand rpm. The horse
power wasted is considerable.
I have not seen an example of overspeed destruction or damage to an
alternator yet. Though I'm sure it has happened.
I think the large pulley swap is an old street racing trick. There were and
still are some eighty five hundered and higher rpm. small blocks out there
tearing up the tarmack. Oh My wasted youth!
jim Kelowna B.C. RV6-eh top left skins done.>
When dreams come true the sky is the limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net> |
Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection |
Arzflyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Within about 30 days I received my Aircraft Registration Form
> completed just as I had requested.
>
> About 30 days later I received a letter from the AZ DOT(Dept. of
> Theft)not as requested.
>
> The FAA did not request any drawings, photos or any other documents
> as some have suggested.
>
Documentation of the building process is normally used by the DAR at the time of
inspection. Some look , some don't. But it's best to have it all available.
> At Oshkosh I stopped by the FAA building and picked up the required forms
> to accomplish what I have just described. The person that "briefed" me
> stated that after Sept. 30, 1998, AC Form 8050-2 Aircraft Bill of
> Sale will be required when making application for registration. So I decided
to
> hurry my application and meet that dead-line, as I see that(Bill of Sale Form
> requirement) as another way that the FEDS are assisting the states with
> their tax collection program.
>
I could go along with that except the AC form 8050-2 Bill of Sale does not mention
dollar
amounts. It passes ownership from the kit manufacturer to the builder. This is
strange
because Federal Courts have ruled that the kit manufacturer is no more than a parts
supplier and therefore cannot pass title to a whole airplane, only parts. The FAA
bill of
sale is worthless to the local sales tax goons.
BTW, how did your 'DOT battle' turn out?
Bruce (Glasair III builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
I stand corrected on the over 200 hp issue. As for who's measurement does
the FAA use, its the manufacturers. Each individual engine is going to make
a few more or few less hp do to any number of factors. Back in the 60's
many of the automakers used to actually underrate their engines for
insurance reasons. Kind of like outboard motors. Ever wonder why many
manufacturers make 9.9 hp engines? It's because a number of states exempt
boats with less than 10 hp from registration.
Regards,
Doug Hormann
-----Original Message-----
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil <dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil>
Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: private pilot license question
>
>> 1998 FARs state:
>> FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes
>> [...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a
>> controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs.
>>
>> FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance
>> airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200
horsepower) --
>> doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below.
>
>is that why the -8 is designed to handle up to 200 hp, so you won't need
>another signoff? (for that matter, is that why lycoming makes a 200 hp
>engine, to just touch the limit there?)
>
>how do they determine whether an engine is over or under the 200 hp limit?
>i would think it would be easy to boost an IO-360 up to 201. do they
>have some way to measure or calculate the actual power of each engine,
>or do they go by the manufacturers' ratings?
>
>> >> What additional endorsements to your license
>> >> did you need to add? One for 200+
>> >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH?
>
>i don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph
>require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license)
>
>-D-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator trim |
> I have
> determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob
> centered. All of the adjustments, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at
> their limit.
On my -6A with constant speed prop and IO-320B1A engine, my cg is a little
further forward than normal (empty weight 1078 lb. and cg 68.64" aft of
datum). I did manage to get my trim cable about centered with enough thread
engagement on the clevis. I find that the difference in trim from cruise
flight to approach with full flaps, usually isn't more than a couple of turns
of the knob. In cruise at 180 mph CAS, 75% power, the leading edge of my
elevator counterweights are slightly below the stabilizer about 3/8~1/2." With
a passenger and a little baggage, they're flush. However, with full fuel and
me solo (1475 lb., and cg 71") I can't trim for 90 mph IAS with full flaps and
engine at idle, the cg is too far forward, and not enough airflow over the
trim tab. Of course during touch-n-goes in this configuration, application of
full power with flaps up causes the nose to really come up fast and require
the reduction of nose up trim!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Subject: | Switch Identification |
As I understand it, there is a requirement that all switches and controls be
marked and indicate direction of operation. If this is true, what is an
accepted method of marking the functions of switches mounted on a fighter
style stick (Infinity, F-4 look alike, etc.)?
Vince Welch
RV-8A (a long way from needing to mark anything but still curious)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Switch Identification |
>As I understand it, there is a requirement that all switches and controls be
>marked and indicate direction of operation. If this is true, what is an
>accepted method of marking the functions of switches mounted on a fighter
>style stick (Infinity, F-4 look alike, etc.)?
There are conventions for the direction of switches, but is not always
adhered to. Up or forward is on, down or aft is off. You see a lot of
switches on side panels going port or starboard. There are also double throw
switches that are labeled for the function in the direction they are
switched. A panel-mounted flap switch is an example.
The switches on the stick can be marked by a diagram somewhere in the
cockpit (really funky looking) or in the Aircraft Flight Handbook/Operator's
Manual.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
>Listers,
>In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already,
>all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but
>on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes?
>
>There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges
>per
>wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to
>kick
>myself if I don't taper it like the others.
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 Prepping wing spars
>
>
The way the wing kits are currently delivered, all of the lightening
tapers that were approved are done for the builder.
As far as I know their is no optional lightening work that you can do to
the wing spar that isn't already done.
The stiffener strips that you are referring too should be left as they
are.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
>
><< RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight
> operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the
> deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >>
>
>Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to
>shim the
>LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having
>the
>trim tab in trail during cruise.
Unless I miss understood the original post, I don't think this is
relevant to the thread.
The original poster was saying that he couldn't get his trim tab to move
through the plans specified amounts of travel if he adjusted the trim
system so that when the trim tab was neutral, his manual trim control
knob was in the center of it's travel range.
My post was to say that the knob shouldn't be in the center of its range
with the trim tab at neutral. If you do this you will not be able to get
enough nose up trim tab deflection. Which comes to my comment that you
responded too.
I was not referring to cruise flight specifically. I said "normal flight
operations" of which I was specifically thinking of operations which
included power off glide with flaps down ( landing approach ). This
configuration will take the most trim available (if you are at a mid
range C.G.). In fact most RV's at this G.G. position probably don't have
enough trim available to trim to a normal approach speed hands off if you
are using full flaps.
As for your need to readjust your stab incidence, I really don't know
why. All of the RV-6(A)'s that I have completed, and all of the company
planes, have had the stab incidence set at zero deg. and they all trim in
cruise with a very small amount of nose down trim (about an 1/8 " of the
balance arms showing above the stab.) which is what Van prefers (as
discussed here on the last previously).
Michael mentioned experiences with the trim on his RV-4. RV-4's are quite
different from RV-6(A)'s as far as trim is concerned. They have a much
wider C.G. shift when adding a passenger or any kind of baggage.
Even though power off on approach it would be more typical for an RV-6(A)
to require nose up trim, it is not at all unusual to see an RV-4 after it
has landed, with its trim tab near the nose down limit (and some times
RV-6(A)'s also).
Hope this clears it up.
My post was only talking about the mechanics of setting up the trim tab
to trim control interface, and like I said before... If you adjust so
that when the trim tab is neutral when the trim tab control (manual or
electric servo) is in the middle of it's travel, it is likely that you
wont be able to get the specified amount of up and down travel on the
trim tab.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Starter Ring gear change |
Gary A. Sobek wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149
> tooth to
> > improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown,
> RV-3A with
> > slow cranking 0-320....
>
> Jim:
>
> I replaced the 122 with a 149 when I rebuilt the engine. There is no
> difference in cranking speed. I wanted the 149 as there are more
> Lycomings out there configured that way. I am able to borrow a spare
> from a friend while I get mine repaired.
>
> =
> Gary A. Sobek
>
Its My understanding that the 122 and 149 tooth ring gears are matched
to different type starters and should not be interchanged unless the
starter is also changed. I had a Mooney with the wrong ring gear for the
installed starter. A sharp mechanic caught the mistake when he heard me
starting the engine, makes a slightly different noise as the gears do
not mesh properly!
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Closing wings.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit? This is the skin
reinforcement rib used only for the sliding canopy. Looks kinda like a
boomerang. I have searched the archive and found only four messages
(very little help). These two ribs are not even close to fitting. If I
move the lower end of the F-6111 about two inches forward of the F-624 I
could make them fit, but I think that would create a problem later.
What's the secret? Any help would be appreciated.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, fuselage
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
I have changed internet providers... My new e-mail address is
Bruce Bell would you please re-post your last messages to me.
the others got lost in the shuffle.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
>>There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were
>>designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow
>>full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft
>>Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be
>>turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best.
Not true. The minimum speed for full output on a modern
alternator is on the order of 4,000 rpm. Pulley size should
be selected so that full output is available at ramp idle.
After all, that's what we really liked about alternators in
the first place . . . generators had to be ratioed for full
ouput a minimum cruise RPM for brush life, alternators are
happier turning fast . . .
>The prime reason for going to a larger alternator pulley is to reduce the
>amount of power used to drive the alternator at unnecessary high speed,
>thereby allowing the saved power to be utilized elseware.
>I'll leave it to one of the engineering types to try to describe dynamics of
>and the amount of power wasteage above six or seven thousand rpm. The horse
>power wasted is considerable.
Again, an over fertilized myth. Power input is equal to power ouput
less losses in the device. As RPM goes up, torque goes down. And
except for increase in windage losses, input horsepower is a
constant for constant ouput watts. When RPM goes up, field current
goes down (lower heat output) and cooling goes up (fans turn
faster). The faster you turn an alternator, the better it likes
it.
>I have not seen an example of overspeed destruction or damage to an
>alternator yet. Though I'm sure it has happened.
Not to my knowlege. Modern alternators don't self destruct below
15,000 rpm . . . a Lycoming ring gear pulley driving a stock
N-D 2-3/4" pulley runs the alternator about 10,000 rpm in cruise.
A very nice combination.
>I think the large pulley swap is an old street racing trick. There were and
>still are some eighty five hundered and higher rpm. small blocks out there
>tearing up the tarmack. Oh My wasted youth!
I think the larger pulley's were created to accomodate
what was belived to be poor bearing life in some automotive
conversions at the time . . . In observing nearly 10 years history
and hundreds of thousands of flight hours experience with B&C belt
driven alternators on Lycomings, the return rate is ZERO . . . I
can confidently suggest that upsizing an alternator pulley is a
waste of worry time.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Taper Them All? |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>The stiffener strips that you are referring too should be left as they
>are.
>
>Scott McDaniels
Thanks, everyone, for your responses. I shall obey the plans (funny how that
works out).
Sorry for the wasted bandwidth - I went into the archives not long after I
sent my note and sure enough, all was revealed! Great tool, that.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Still prepping wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size |
My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated speed
of 12,000 RPM.
Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at low speeds
- approaches
from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4") to improve
belt wear
problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't turn things
off to conserve.
If items should be on, they are on.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Subject: | SENSENICH FOR 360 |
Jim,
Have you seen the published data at our web site?
http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmtest.htm
We have shipped about 75 propellers to date and it is difficult to say how
many are actually flying. I have received several reports back now verifying
our numbers. Everyone to date (maybe 5 or 6 guys) have agreed with the
numbers. This testing was done on a RV-6. I have two people using an RV-8
and it appears as though they will be using a 85 pitch. The RV-6 and RV-6A
are coming in with an 83 pitch very nicely.
If you cannot get the above data, let me know and I will fax or mail to you.
If there is something specific that you would like to know, give me a
holler!!
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Spinner Cut-out Method |
From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER) |
Well, I am a happy camper. I wrote what I hope is my last check to Vans
for awhile when I picked up my Hartzell prop yesterday. I have it on the
airplane, and am contemplating how to do the spinner cut-out for the
prop. Are there any special techniqes you have come up with to get the
pattern for the cutout accurately besides the draw-on-cardboard method?
And finally, how do I determine how big to make the opening for the
movement of the CS prop? Can I manually twist the prop blades to
determine clearance on the spinner cut-out? I am hoping to make the
cutout accurately enough to use the fiberglass cutout piece for the
backing plate behind the blade. Is this a good idea or should I just use
aluminum? Thanks again, you all have been a tremendous help for a first
timer like me!
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Subject: | SENSENICH FOR 360 |
My apologies to everyone. My message to Jim was intended to him personally
and I hit the reply button by mistake!
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: private pilot license question |
DFaile(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> *****************************************************************************
> Complex and High performance sign off do not apply to homebuilts.
> *****************************************************************************
Would you mind citing the FAR on this. I don't disbelieve you, I just
want to be able to point it out to suspicious official types if I ever
need to. Thanks in advance.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
--------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436
Ken Harrill wrote:
> Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit?
> What's the secret? Any help would be appreciated.
>
Ken,
I had the exact same experience when I tried to install mine. I found
that I had to twist the part a little here and there. The flange that
fits the skin was about 90 deg. in the center and was modified to a less
acute angle as it approached the top and the f605 bulkhead. I also had
to trim it a little for length. As I was fitting one side my wife was
fitting the other. We gave up thinking that there was no way these would
fit our particular airframe and retired for the evening. The next
morning things looked a little different and they fell into place. At
one point the fit of the parts will be the best, draw a line on the
inside of the skin where this point is. This way you have a reference
line so each time you place the part in the inside of the skin it is in
the same position. The parts only attach to the skin and nothing else.
placement is not that critical but should be kept as close as possible
to the position as stated in the plans. If you get them to far forward,
they could cause interference problems later when you trim the skin for
the sliding canopy. Keep at it and they will eventually fit. Don't get
to frustrated, the f6111's are easy compared to the canopy. These are
trial and error fitting stages of the fuselage.
Don't give up!
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 Cowling and baffling stages.
--------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436
name="zilik.vcf"
filename="zilik.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Zilik;Gary
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:zilik(at)bewellnet.com
fn:Gary Zilik
end:vcard
--------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Econome" <econome(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size |
What ever happened to the large number RV aircraft that went to an African
air force. I wonder how they held up? How many crashed; how many are not
airworthy; how many are still flying ?
Does anyone know?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott \"Sky\" Smith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com> |
I have been using handheld lorans and GPS for years and been very happy
with them. Visibility and stability in the aircraft has not been a
problem. I have also used many panel mounted units including the King
KLN89/90 and actually like the handhelds better. I have been using
Magellan SkyStar units. Besides easier to use, the cost is cheaper for the
handhelds and they can be mounted in a number of locations.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
> Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit?
No. Mine sure didn't fit like the drawings. They are further forward.
Some leave them out entirely but they do stiffen the skin.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Spinner Cut-out Method |
<< And finally, how do I determine how big to make the opening for the
movement of the CS prop? Can I manually twist the prop blades to
determine clearance on the spinner cut-out?
You bet! Get some big monkey to help with this- you will need him! Watch also
for clearance at the rear bulkhead.
I am hoping to make the
cutout accurately enough to use the fiberglass cutout piece for the
backing plate behind the blade. Is this a good idea or should I just use
aluminum? Thanks again, you all have been a tremendous help for a first
timer like me!
Use aluminum. It will stand up to the environment better. You can find some
soft 050-063 at a local metal shop. Form the curves with a plastic hammer and
a shot bag.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size |
>My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated
speed of 12,000 RPM.
>Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at
low speeds - approaches
>from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4")
to improve belt wear
>problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't
turn things off to conserve.
>If items should be on, they are on.
Gates Rubber Co. belts are recommended by B&C and supplied in
all their kits . . . I'm not aware of any wear problems but
I'll ask Bill about it when I see him this weekend.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | DAR Inspection?Taxes |
When the FAA came out to inspect my Kfox it was a friendly a quick affair. He
made a special trip from Baton Rouge to look at my plane. All of this cost me
NOTHING! He issued my paperwork --asked me if I had used all AN Hardware--sat
in the seat --signed off a friends IA paperwork --drank a coke and waved a
hardy goodbye as he left in a cloud of dust. Darned if I did not find a silver
bullet in the seat of my Kfox. Seriously, why bother with a DAR or whatever
and pay him lots to do nothing when the FAA is supposed to do it for FREE--it
is their JOB. When I got my A&P the FAA man in AZ , my wife was his
granddaughters therapist, signed the ticket and said if I ever needed help
call him. Most of these people are just as nice as can be and are not part of
an Evil Empire. Use the EAA Tech. Counselors for your building
inspections--depend on them to be your second set of eyes and recruit
experienced builders in your area to give your project a look see also. The
FAA and the DAR something other is there at the end for the paper work only
and MONEY too (the DAR). Taxes--not all homebuilts come from a kit and you
can register your RV as a Williams Wonder or whatever suits your fancy. Order
yourself a roll of aluminum and send in the reciept from the plans and the
roll of aluminum--just a thought. EPA, FAA, IRS etc are beginning to have to
much power--I think I am going to move to Russia. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Digital Gauges |
These are nice gauges, but, how would one handle the prerequisite
color markings for 'bad', 'good' and 'better'.
Isn't that a requirement for all airplane instruments ??
Gert
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
> > My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference
> >between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ?
> >Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ?
> >They seem to do the same job.....
I have the Skyforce GPS (basically a handheld unit) and bought their
panel mounting provision. A handheld will not directly talk to the
NavAid autopilot so I have the coupler from NavAid to make them
compatible. Not flying yet but this is an option between handheld and
panel mount...I have both.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A prop spinner now in work
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
Listers,
As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the
manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the
gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30
while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before
and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful
with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get
it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size |
cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated speed
of 12,000 RPM.
> Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at low
speeds - approaches
> from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4") to
improve belt wear
> problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't turn things
off to conserve.
> If items should be on, they are on.
>
Are you sure things are lined up properly? What kind of wear were
you getting? I have the small pully and have had the same belt
for 1000hrs now, don't even know what brand it is I got it at a
autoparts store.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 flying since 1989|Hillsboro,OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the
> manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the
> gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30
> while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before
> and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful
> with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get
> it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.)
>
>It's showing atmospheric pressure; goes lower when the engine's running & throttle
is closed & pressure in manifold gets lower.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
Jim,
Your manifold pressure guage measures the same pressure as your altimeter,
and in fact is nothing more than a fancy barometer. So if the outside air
pressure is, say, 29.92, your mp guage should read about 30. When the
engine is running there is actually a vacuum in your manifold, so you get a
lower pressure reading.
Regards,
Doug Hormann-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 11:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
>
>Listers,
>
>As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the
>manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the
>gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30
>while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before
>and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful
>with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get
>it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lschuler(at)cellular.uscc.com |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size |
Robert L. Nuckolls wrote:
snip
>Power input is equal to power ouput less losses in the device.
>snip
Oops. Shouldn't that be a "plus" rather than a "less"?
Gotta have more goin' in than comes out due to the losses unless you
discovered perpetual motion....
Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
The manifold pressure guage should read the same as the altimeter if the
altitude is set to 0 feet.
Rob Hickman
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
>manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the
>gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30
>while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet.
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.)
Jim:
I think the MP is measeuring atmospheric pressure which is close to 30 in
Hg each day. When you hook it up to the intake system it post to tell
you about the vaccum that is in there. The ones you get at the auto store
run backwards for some reason. Good luck & I wish I could be working with
gauges.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
Subject: | Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
you can use this "feature" of your MP guage to get the local
altimeter setting before starting the engine somewhere where ATIS is not
available.
> Jim Sears wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the
> > manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the
> > gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30
> > while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it
> before
> > and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful
> > with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get
> > it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty.
> >
> > Jim Sears in KY
> > RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.)
> >
> >
>
> It's showing atmospheric pressure; goes lower when the engine's running &
> throttle is closed & pressure in manifold gets lower.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
Thanks to everyone who answered my question concerning the
manifold pressure gauge. I guess I should have thought that one out a
bit more. I'm too used to seeing things start at zero! Mine must be right
on the money. I'll check it later when I check AWOS.
Now, back to that wiring. :-(
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel and stuff.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
Put them way up forward. They seem to fit there pretty well. Mine did. I got
the idea from others that did theirs that way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
> you can use this "feature" of your MP guage to get the local
> altimeter setting before starting the engine somewhere where ATIS is not
> available.
Like, for example, if you are parked in some mountain meadow and don't know the
field elevation??
:-)
Oh, I see...you are pulling our legs.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest |
November 29, 1998 - December 04, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fy