RV-Archive.digest.vol-fy

November 29, 1998 - December 04, 1998



      >Gary Zilik RV-6A
      >
       The air definitely has to be cooled down before the water will condense out
      in the trap.  I found that just a 25 foot coil of of 3/8 copper tubing
      hanging on the wall ahead of the filter/water trap did the job.  No ice
      bucket required..  J&L has a good filter/trap for about $41 -- Order number
      CHS-1491H (1-800-525-6817).
      
      If I had it to do over I'd buy a more expensive two-stage compressor (Quincy
      or equivalent).  The intercooler between stages dumps lots of heat and most
      of the water is trapped in the tank.
      
      Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
      Hampshire, IL
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport)
Subject: RV6A Nose Gear Service Bulletin
Yesterday I pulled the nose gear from my 6A. I have a total time of 65 hours. First flight was in May, 1998. On close examination of the nose gear, I found machining marks in exactly the position shown for crack location as per the SB. I was able to blend the mark out and will be dye checking shortly. It was worth the look. I would also like to say that I have temperfoam seats. It is getting cold here in Canada and yes they are hard at first but it doesn't take long for the seats to soften up. I have given up the idea of making winter seats as the temperfoam is working out just fine. Dale Lamport Nepean, Ontario, Canada RV6A #23861 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: grips
website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4 stick? > Made by a company called Hyperion? > Thank-you, > Norman Hunger I think it's Infinity; look in Sport Aviation classifieds. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net>
Subject: Rich Rich Rich
Appreciate the help. I have no primer installed. There is no way, except past the needle that fuel is getting to the carb. Need to research what carbs are recommended for this engine. Also I figure that my problems could have something to do with having a neoprene tipped needle and using autogas, although it seems to me that if the needle swelled it would run leaner. Hmmm. Never had any problems with autogas in my other plane (C-140 -steel needle) even in hundreds of hours. Don't know if the second carb I tried had a neoprene needle -it was a loaner and I didn't want to open it. I'll spend the week doing research, checking float levels, etc. Mabye convert the carb to a different (leaner) dash#. thanks! Scott N4ZW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Biddle" <dscottb(at)primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Pointer Phone Number
Date: Nov 29, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: ERemmers(at)aol.com <ERemmers(at)aol.com> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 5:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Pointer Phone Number > >Need international phone (or fax) number for Pointer company (fabricating >ELTs), maybe in Tempe, AZ. >1-800-number doesn't work from here. >Company is not in the yellow pages. >Any ideas? > >Enno Remmers >Cologne/Germany >RV-8 empennage > For Pointer Inc. at 1027 N. Stadem Dr. Tempe, AZ. 85281 The number is (602) 966-1674 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org>
Subject: Re: RADIO
> HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A??? Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't they? Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000. An average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range. -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net>
Subject: Re: grips
Date: Nov 30, 1998
[The Canard Aviators's Mailing list] Tim, sometimes ago, when I was preparing myself to assembly a Europa, I purchaise two Trustmasters Sticks, of F15 model, thinking in the same of you. The quality is really great, and in my mind we can use that devices without any worry ( the sticks will not to demolish in our hands, in use..) But, what a shame+ACE- When I decided to build a Cozy, the left seat stick needs a left hand stick, and I couldn't find a trustmaster or trustmaster like low price/righ quality) left hand stick.... Regards, Romulo Augusto da Cruz, Jr., Lt, MD, Cozy Plans SN +ACM-0730 Office: Rua da Bahia 1345/1103 Lourdes, Status: started ch. 4 Belo Horizonte, MG , Brasil Phones: 55-31-274-5667, 55-31-497-2080 , 55-31-9954-9478 Romulojr+AEA-brhs.com.br , Cozybuilder+AEA-yahoo.com +AD4- \ ->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>-|- / For details on sponsors of this list, copyrights, and how to remove yourself from this list, please visit: http://www.canard.com/ca-ending.html (c) 1997,1998 Canard Aviators. support(at)canard.com / -|-<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< \ -----Original Message----- From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 7:10 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: grips > > > website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4 >stick? >> Made by a company called Hyperion? >> Thank-you, >> Norman Hunger >I think it's Infinity; look in Sport Aviation classifieds. > >Charlie > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: RV6A gear legs
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Hi listers, I am just starting my 6A fuselage kit (have had it for approx. 6 weeks) and I am noticing that the gear legs are already showing rust colors. What is the best way to keep these in decent shape until I am ready for them?? Thanks Rick in Minnesota ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: ICQ
I use to come to this area awhile back. I would now like to get back in but forgot the sequence and address's. Could somebody please list the sequence again. Thanks John L. Danielson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber
<< How did Tracy Saylor (and others) make the round inlet ports on the front of the cowl? What size diameter can they be made at when using a sealed baffle chamber? Is there a speed advantage to this system and would it be worth the extra hassle to build? >> The axisymmetric ports are availible from Sam James, whose phone number and address can be found in the archives and maybe the Yeller Pages. Also, Steve Barnhard used to offer them, and maybe still does. FYI, Sam's inlets are fiberglass, Steves are/were aluminum. The basic routine was to fit your stock cowling, then cut up the intake area and fit the round inlets. The advantage is that a round inlet (or pipe, whatever) gives a better flow rate per square inch of opening, so your inlets can be smaller. Also, anyone who goes to the trouble to install these also installs a cooling plenum. Between the two, you will cut your cooling drag compared to almost any stock system. I've been considering if I want to invest the extra time and money to go this route on my bird. It makes me really uncomfortable to even consider cutting on that expensive cowling (yes, I bought the upgrade). Kyle Boatright RV-6 . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Just saw the $850 Microair in Kitplanes, December, page 111. sales(at)microair.com.au. Know nothing about it, neither for or against. Finn Joe Larson wrote: > > > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A??? > > Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't they? > Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000. An > average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range. > > -Joe > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
Subject: RADIO
Date: Nov 29, 1998
> > > > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A??? > Speaking of radios, I've been meaning ask if anyone has tried the ICS PLUS NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom from Wag Aero? The all-in-one unit looks fairly decent and has a prewired harness and tray included. The unit lists for $1450, and there are sometimes rebuilds available for $1176. Any experience with this unit would be appreciated, I'm thinking of putting it in my RV-3. Sorry, didn't check the archives on this one. Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 (finishing spar mods on left wing) Oldest "unfinished" RV in existence???????? : ) Socorro, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Date: Nov 29, 1998
>Speaking of radios, I've been meaning ask if anyone has tried the ICS PLUS >NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom from Wag Aero Rob, The archives have quite a bit on this radio, and I was seriously considering installing one. Then I talked to the guys from Aerocomp at Oshkosh this year. They have several of them installed in thier factory demonstrators. Most of them have been back to Wag Aero for service, each one took about 3-4 months to get back, and several came back unrepaired. Not recommended. Rob Acker (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV-6 into the sky....
Ronald Vandervort wrote: > > Hello Listers, > > I just have to grin, excuse me... > > Today, I was finally able to find enough blue sky, here in Seattle area, > for a 40 nminute initial flight. No surprises, it flew as advertised; > delightfully so. What a "Kick in the pants." > > Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q Seattle area FLYING, FLYING.....FLYING!!!!!!!!!! > Congratulations Ron, be sure to be watching your six Jerry Springer RV-6 flying since 1989 HIllsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
"How much is a radio for a 6A?" Actually "radio companies" charge more for radios in a 6A than for a plain old 6 or 4. I sometimes use smoke signals or a can on a string--real cheap. Radio Shack has some nice walkie talkies. How's about NO radio--very cheap and light? Couldn't resist so go ahead and flame me. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1998
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Stick Grips
Norman, I'm unfamiliar with the Hyperion grips. You might want to check out the stick grips from Infinity Aerospace; P.O. Box 12275; El Cajon, CA 92022; phone and FAX (619) 448-5103; URL, as I recall, www.infaero.com. Infinity makes both left and right hand grips. Best wishes, Jack Abell Los Angeles RV-6A N333JA (Reserved) Norman Hunger wrote: > > Hello, I'm seeking information on joystick grips. Was there one on Vans > website a while back that was an 8% scaled down version of an F-4 stick? > Made by a company called Hyperion? > Thank-you, > Norman Hunger > RV6A > nhunger(at)sprint.ca > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hughes" <jhughes@net-quest.com>
Subject: Primer questions.
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Hi All, I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N. AN-800-2) I bought these from A.S. they are made of Brass, how are these attached to the primer line?On a friends 6A he used these but his came in stainless and his lines are also stainless so he braised them on with some special solder.What type of line should I use with these brass one's (copper,alum,stainless) Maybe I should drop using these and go with copper and auto type with compression sleeves.It's just that I would like to use the AN-4022-1 discharge nipple on P106 because the discharge hole is very small as compared with a auto type with compression sleeve is pretty large.I think the very small hole will allow to create backpressure at the nipple allowing the different lenght primer lines to fill and the end result would be each cylinder receiving the same amount of prime.Any Thoughts? Thanks,John Hughes RV-6 N164JH (reserved) So Cal, Working on engine stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: new product - speed nuts for threaded rod
RV-Listers, I discovered a neat product made by Lee Valley Tools, a local company that sells quality woodworking and gardening tools. They make knurled brass nuts that have a second hole drilled through them at a slight angle to the first. This allows the nuts to just slide along a threaded rod if they are tipped slightly sideways. Once they are in position against a leading edge rib, they stay in position and hold the threads like a regular nut. The big advantage is that if you use a threaded rod to hold leading edge ribs, you don't have to turn each nut a gazillion times as you push the rod through the ribs. These things fit a 1/4-28 thread and are sold in packages of four for $CDN 9.95 (that is about $US6.50). The part callout is 05F01.03 Speed Nuts. Two packages are enough to do wing leading edge ribs - they won't quite replace every nut, but you can use them for the ones that you would have to thread the longest distance. Lee Valley takes mail orders at (613) 596-0350 or 1-800-267-8735 (USA) or 1-800-267-8761 (Canada). Web page http://www.leevalley.com They ship US orders from a US warehouse, so you don't have to deal with customs. They have great customer service - if you don't like a product, they give a refund, no questions asked, including paying for your return shipping. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Rich Rich Rich
In a message dated 11/27/98 8:54:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, cgalley(at)accessus.net writes: << The old metal ones leaked and sank. The ADed plastic foam absorbs gas and sinks as well. >> Sounds like an Ellison TBI is in order. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "D Malott" <drmalott(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wanted RV3 Project
Date: Nov 29, 1998
A friend of mine is looking for a RV3 project. If you have one or know were one might be, please send information to drmalott(at)hotmail.com Thanks David Malott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Coleman" <david(at)coleman65.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Primer questions.
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Hi John, I have pondered the same problem today, it appears that the copper tube should be cleaned and fluxed, the union nut can then be slipped over the tubing followed by the union cone. The cone and tube can then be heated and solder melted around the joint. David Coleman RV-6 G-RVET London , U.K -----Original Message----- From: John Hughes <jhughes@net-quest.com> Date: 29 November 1998 22:23 Subject: RV-List: Primer questions. > >Hi All, > I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder >primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a >part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N. AN-800-2) I >bought these from A.S. they are made of Brass, how are these attached to >the primer line?On a friends 6A he used these but his came in stainless and >his lines are also stainless so he braised them on with some special >solder.What type of line should I use with these brass one's >(copper,alum,stainless) Maybe I should drop using these and go with copper >and auto type with compression sleeves.It's just that I would like to use >the AN-4022-1 discharge nipple on P106 because the discharge hole is very >small as compared with a auto type with compression sleeve is pretty >large.I think the very small hole will allow to create backpressure at the >nipple allowing the different lenght primer lines to fill and the end >result would be each cylinder receiving the same amount of prime.Any >Thoughts? > > > Thanks,John Hughes > RV-6 N164JH (reserved) > So Cal, Working on engine stuff. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine Primer questions.
>I have pondered the same problem today, it appears that the copper tube >should be cleaned and fluxed, the union nut can then be slipped over the >tubing followed by the union cone. The cone and tube can then be heated and >solder melted around the joint. Yes. But "regular" solder is not sufficient. Use silver solder. Melts at a higher temperature. Make certain the tubing opening or the fitting orifice does not take the flux or solder. And be sure you put the nut on before all this. You can thread it on afterwards from the other end, unless you already have a fitting on or have flared the other end. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Instruments
Randy, I have the Rochester electric engine instruments on my RV6. No problems after 455 hours. You are correct when you say "solidly built". Rochesters are heavy. Gillette Charlie is using JPI digital instruments, eight total. I think all of these eight gauges weigh about the same as one Rochester. These gauges are expensive, as well, but when it comes to keeping an eye on engine health, I don't mind spending a bit on instrumentation. Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >I used Rochester gauges and am very happy with them so far. >They are very solidly built. The CHT uses a bayonet probe. >I also like the fact that the gauges already contained range >markings for my Lycoming engine. Haven't flown yet, but >I've seen many other RV's with the Rochester gauges. > > Once you get them all, they are pretty expensive though. >The all in one electronic units may be the way to go if >you have the $$$$. For me, this was one of those expensive >options that I thought I could do without. > >Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel" >RV-6 - Cowling and Finishing Up ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Wing tips
RVers, Does anyone make epoxy/honeycomb wing tips (similar to the new cowls) for the RV6? We're not interested in fuel holding ability---just something lighter than the factory tips. It seems that the tips that Gillette Charlie got with his kit are heavier than the ones on my six. They also seem to be better made and are long enough. Another question: Charlie mounted the outboard ribs a bit far out so we don't have 1/2 inch for the mounting of the tips. I'm going to try & work with the material I have left. My plan is to decrease the rivet spacing on the pop rivets and to proseal the tips to the skin. What to do with the gap that is left is the next problem. I would prefer not to grind the flange on the tips down narrow enough to fit. I was thinking about removing the gelcoat (Charlie's job as I think I'm now allergic to gelcoat dust, even with a mask) down to bare fiberglass and filling the gap with epoxy and glass. We'll probably bend down the edges of the skin and fiberglass over on the wing skin after roughing the skin up and then sand everything down flush. I talked Charlie into pop riveting the tips on as opposed to screws and nut plates (which I have on my six) because I think the installation will weigh less. Also, because of the overhang situation, installation of nutplates is going to be a bit of a problem. Thanks for any input you might have. Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder cable questions
Glen & RVers, For what it's worth, I didn't use the clamp or the plastic sleave installed on the rudder cables. I cut the plastic sleave off. Then, I slipped some split plastic sleaving that I bought from West marine. This comes in 6 foot lengths and is split the whole length. I believe the diameter of sleaving that I used was 5/16". The rudder cables are covered with this plastic, front to rear. With this set up, you now have the plastic sleaving gliding on the plastic snap bushings. This eleminates any wear and the "sawing" noise reverberating in the tail cone. A much quieter installation. I stole this idea from my friend Andy Bajc of Lincoln, NE who built an award winning (S&F) RV4. I used rudder cable fairings similar to Avery's and installed these with a couple of screws. I ended the sheathing before the rudder cables exit the fuselage. I put a tiny piece of UHMW tape where there was possible wear of the rudder cables on the fuselage sides and have had no wear problems in 455 hours. Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >I had some questions rearding exiting the rudder cables out of the rear >of the fuselage. >1. Ref. Dwg#34, lists a AN742-6C Clamp. Is this the old AN number for >MS21919WDG6 cushioned clamp? >3. Avery sells some aluminum rudder cable fairings. Anyone have any >input on whether or not they should be used? >-Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: book "speed with economy"
>BOB MY RV4 228 MPH SUN 100 RUNS VANS STOCK TO PLANS COOLING SYSTEM ONLY >CHANGE WAS THE EXIT RAMP TOM RV4 BOUNTY HUNTER Tom, We're going with the plenum, not so much because of a possible speed advantage, but more from an ease of maintenance, installation and hopefully fewer leaks point of view. Of course, it would be nice to gain speed but since we're not testing "before and after", we'll never know. I (and I assume other listers) would be very interested in more info about your RV4. Regards, Bob Skinner RV-6 455 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Rudder Stops
Hi, RV-6, DWG# 34 RE: Rudder Stops ________________________________________________________________________________ rudder stop would sit above the horizontal position of the rudder horns. With this in mind, wouldn't the rudder stop only contact the rudder horns at the diagonal portion on the R-405 Rudder horn? Just checking before I start drilling holes in the side of the airplane. Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Primer questions.
John, You can use silver solder for the fittings. Ordinary solder is not reccomended. Copper line is fine or stainless will work. Compression fittings tend to weaken the tube therefore aren't reccomended. Stew Bergner RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Joe Larson wrote: > > > HOW MUCH WOULD A RADIO RUN FOR A 6A??? > > Depends on the radio (or radios). Handhelds are about $500, aren't > they? > Panel-mount NAV/COM prices seem to be within a few hundred of $2000. > An > average IFR panel is going to be in the 10 to 20 grand range. > > -Joe If you are asking how much an inexpesive radio would cost , then Val Avionics Ltd. have a Com 760 with 'flip flop' for $690 sold by Chief Aircraft[per Trade A Plane] .Friend of mine had one in his RV6 and was very happy with it. Derek Reed > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > +-------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------- > List Support Contributions: > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Trustmaster Sticks
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half the price of Infinity sticks? Norman Hunger RV6A nhunger(at)sprint.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO-on a serious note-YAESU
I saw an advertisement for the YAESU super small handheld radio in the AOPA Pilot. I was wondering if anyone has gotten one of those. I have an old Icom that has been faithful and true but that Yaesu sure is a tiny thing--half the size of the smallest Icom. I bet it will work a lot better than a "can on a string" and a lot more range too. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: Re: Trustmaster Sticks
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Thrustmaster is a game/sim computer interface. I haven't heard of Infinity. Vince -----Original Message----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 9:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Trustmaster Sticks > >Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half the >price of Infinity sticks? >Norman Hunger >RV6A >nhunger(at)sprint.ca > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV6 gear legs
Date: Nov 29, 1998
I would just use use emery cloth to buff off the rust,clean with acetone or enamel reducer then coat the entire structure with LPS 30 until you get ready to prime.[Be sure and clean off all LPS before you spray your primer.] You could also use an conversion coating to prep the the metal, and prime with any type primer {Marhyde,Rust-oleum} the choice is yours, the objective is to have clean steel to prime. Chris Santschi. 8 Empannage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: new product - speed nuts for threaded rod
Kevin Horton wrote: > > > RV-Listers, > > ****snip**** > They make knurled brass nuts that have a second hole drilled through > them at a slight angle to the first. This allows the nuts to just > slide along a threaded rod if they are tipped slightly sideways. > Once they are in position against a leading edge rib, they stay in > position and hold the threads like a regular nut. The big advantage > is that if you use a threaded rod to hold leading edge ribs, you > don't have to turn each nut a gazillion times as you push the rod > through the ribs. > >****snip**** RV'ers Here's another way to do those leading edge skins that an Oklahoma RV4 builder told me about. I did the "turn the nut a gazillion times" thing, but I think this new method would be a lot faster. He took some automotive rubber hose, like vacum line or possibly fuel line and cut it into pieces about one inch long. Then slit each piece end to end. Put the threaded rod in place and put a piece of slitted hose on each side of a nose rib. Take a nylon tie and cinch it up tight on the hose. These pieces of hose can now be turned like a nut and will actually get tight against the rib. They act just like nuts but are faster to use! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: TCOlson <tcolson@Cedar-Rapids.Net>
Subject: Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming
Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC I recieved one of the initial props in mid July and currently have 70 Hours on the aircraft. I have been very pleased with its performance. The Cruise performance tracks quite well with Sensenich's data. Additionally, the A/C CG with this prop worked out very well giving me approx 70 Lb baggage capacity with 2-200 Lb pilots and a 1750 gross. The data below was taken in August and September during rather warm weather. My RV is pure stock with standard cowling, wheel pants etc. However, I don't yet have gear leg intersection fairings installed. Since the cold weather has set in the climb performance has drastically improved. The prop remains very well matched to the engine and airframe, almost always showing near 2700 RPM at full throttle in cruise. Climb performance data: from 2000 to 2500 MSL A/C Weight 1680 1666 1666 1400 1430 Alt. Setting 30.12 29.95 29.93 29.89 Temperature 81 88F 74 76 72 A/C Speed Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min Ft./Min 70 MPH 984 1429 80 1132 1053 1500 90 1304 1333 1714 1622 100 1200 1224 1500 1667 110 1277 1765 1714 120 1200 1667 130 1538 TAS Cruise performance measured in two directions with GPS. Directions were mostly into and down wind per the local Wx winds aloft forcast. RPM Alt Alt Alt Alt 5500 6500 7500 9500 1900 135 2000 144 2100 145 163 151 2200 158 170 163 161 2300 166 172 170 166 2400 173 181 172 178 2500 185 187 181 185 2600 193 196 187 192 2700 204 196 198 Hope this provides some info to help new builders make the difficult choices on prop selection. Regards Tom Olson N298TC tcolson@cedar-rapids.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: Rigging Elevators
Seems like a stupid question even for me as I'm typing. When measuring the travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees for example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of the elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90 degrees to horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this??? Bill Pagan web page updated http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
Subject: Wanted RV3 Project
Date: Nov 30, 1998
David- Sorry, forgot to mention that you or your friend can reach me at (505) 835-3644 anytime in the evenings if you want to talk about John Hosack's project. Rob Reece > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of D Malott > Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 2:41 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Wanted RV3 Project > > > A friend of mine is looking for a RV3 project. If you have one or know > were one might be, please send information to drmalott(at)hotmail.com > > Thanks > David Malott > > > +----------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > > +----------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > > +----------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 1998
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: new product - speed nuts for threaded rod
Another method that worked for me... As you thread thru the rod, put on your washer and nut then attach a spring clamp to the nut. The weight of the clamp will keep the nut from turning. Use your drill to speed the rod thru all the ribs. Quick and easy. Larry Olson RV6 N606RV - Waiting on Fuse Cave Creek, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Rudder Stops
Date: Nov 29, 1998
>RV-6, DWG# 34 >RE: Rudder Stops > >>From dimensions taken from drawing #34, the horizontal portion of the >rudder stop would sit above the horizontal position of the rudder >horns. > >With this in mind, wouldn't the rudder stop only contact the rudder >horns at the diagonal portion on the R-405 Rudder horn? > Yes. This is so that the rudder cable that is also attached to the horn will be just slightly below the rudder stop, and not interfear with it. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
Bill, yes, you should use the cord line of the surface. Stew RV4 co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Trustmaster Sticks
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Thrustmaster is a computer joystick company. They sell several different high quality flight simulation joysticks. They run from $50 to $150 depending on the model. I guess you could use one in an RV, just cut it off the base and fit it to your control stick. Not sure what you'd have to do to wire it. The buttons and handle are good quality, depending on the model. You can check them out at any Comp USA or similar computer store. www.thrustmaster.com Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 Page at: http://tabshred.com/moe >>Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half the >price of Infinity sticks? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Primer questions.
<< You can use silver solder for the fittings. Ordinary solder is not recommended. Copper line is fine or stainless will work.>> The problem with stainless (ask me how I know) is that it is so stiff that any vibration or side-to-side movement doesn't decouple over its length. All the stresses go right into that weak little brass cone union on the primer fitting. I ended up making what I consider to be a fool proof modification for the cone union primer fittings when used with stainless tubing. Buy only the AN4022-1 straight fitting (or the right angle AN4023-1 if it can fit). Then get an AN818--2D nut, an a MS20819-2D sleeve and a brass "olive" from a standard 1/8" compression fitting from the hardware store. Install the AN4022-1 in the engine port using sealant. Cut the 1/8" tubing to length, install the sleeve, the nut, the olive and bottom the tubing end into the AN4022-1. Hold it there and tighten very well. The olive will become crimped fairly tightly on the tubing (but will not even come close to damaging it). The strength in this installation comes from the tubing actually going deeply down into the AN4022-1. << Compression fittings tend to weaken the tube therefore aren't recommended. >> The above procedure only applies to stainless tubing. Copper tubing seems soft enough to flex and decouple the stresses, so the standard AN800-2, AN805-2 and AN4022-1 combination silver soldered should work as designed for copper. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6aJMW(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, dreed(at)cdsnet.net writes: <From: "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au>
Subject: Re: Engine Primer questions.
Date: Nov 30, 1998
These days it is possible to buy low temperature solder that is equal to or exceeds strength of conventional silver solder, don't know the details but can it can be handy where you don't want to much heat applied. Not saying thats the case here. Bran > > Yes. But "regular" solder is not sufficient. Use silver solder. Melts at a > higher temperature. Make certain the tubing opening or the fitting orifice > does not take the flux or solder. And be sure you put the nut on before all > this. You can thread it on afterwards from the other end, unless you already > have a fitting on or have flared the other end. > > Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
<< When measuring the travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees for example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of the elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90 degrees to horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this? >> All control surface travel angles are lock to lock displacements from their "in trail" reference positions. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
<< you should use the cord line of the surface. >> What kind of cord did you use? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Seward747(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re:
RE: Fighter type control grips. Thrustmaster products are made for the computer flight simulation/game market. Besides stick grips, they make a replica of the F-16 throttle grip as well, both have a gazillion buttons. As someone previously mentioned, wiring them for a "real" aircraft application could be a challenge; mounting one on the RV control stick might be too. Infinity's products are true aircraft quality, built by an ex F-4 backseater, he manufactures a retractable gear set-up for Long-Ezes as well. And, they do come in both left and right versions. They're in San Diego, have a classified ad in the back of every Sport Aviation. An alternative I used was to buy a grip from Canadian Home Rotors, makers of the Baby Belle homebuilt helicopter (the Bell 47 look- alike). They wanted a military type grip for their kits and just cast their own copy. I bought one from them @ Oshkosh for $50 bucks. Just the rough aluminum casting, you clean it up and supply/install/wire your own switches as desired. They advertise in Sport Aviation, Kitplanes, etc. Glasair has a cool stick grip too, mightr want to check them out as well (Arlington, WA). Doug Seward, -4, Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Top skin overlap
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Hello all you RV-6 builders. The top skins F-674 and F-675 overlap by about two inches. The manual says to trim the overlap. Has anyone simply drilled two parallel rows of rivet holes and riveted them together much like we do with the wing skins and the fuselage side skins? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber
<< How did Tracy Saylor (and others) make the round inlet ports on the front of the cowl? What size diameter can they be made at when using a sealed baffle chamber? Is there a speed advantage to this system and would it be worth the extra hassle to build? Norman Hunger >> I think Tracy got his from Steve Barnard- these are no longer available thru him. Contact Sam James, as he is molding the entire cowl, along with a 'glass plenum. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Gear Fairings; RV-8
Von, I installed Tracy's gearleg fairings in July. I had the same reservations about closing up my gearlegs, so against Tracy's advice used the Van's hinge method. I did use about 1" rivet spacing. I have about 70 hours on the installation with no damage. The paint over the rivets is still intact suggesting that the rivets are not moving. I am hesitant to recommend doing things against the manufacturers wishes even when it has worked for me, so, "your mileage may vary". VON L ALEXANDER wrote: > > > In getting ready to install the gear fairings on the RV-8, I am trying > to decide whether to just epoxy them at the trailing edge for a permanent > and light installation, or to use the hinge material with removeable pin > that is included with the fairings from Vans. Tracy Saylor, who is very > knowledgable on these fairings, says to glass them, because the rivets > eventually start tearing through the fiberglass and looking ugly. I tend -- Terry Jantzi Kitchener ON RV-6 C-GZRV <http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Carroll Bird <"catbird(at)taylortel.com"(at)taylortel.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming
TCOlson wrote: > > > Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC > (much snipped) Could you tell me what the pitch on your prop is. They sent me an 83" pitch for a -4. Thanks-- Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Sealed Baffle Chamber
I just purchased the Barnard Cowl from Sam James....got it last week. The inlet rings are to follow shortly. In addition Sam sold me his plenum for the 180 hp motor. Quality of the work is fantastic and Sam was very helpful. He will sell you just the inlet rings if you want to adapt them to whatever. Good Luck, Bob Claypool, Fresno,CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: O-340-A1A
Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts? Dan DeNeal Skinning the 6A fueslage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Subject: LYCOMING PARTS
I need source for engine parts for my Lycoming O320 E2D, I have to change the accessory housing because it is not machined for the fuel pump, I have a case from O290 engine believe it's the same but I need gear with cam (i think, haven't looked yet) and pump push rod and gaskets. Any help is appreciated. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RADIO
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Nov 30, 1998
I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; www.valavionics.com, or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com > >In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, >dreed(at)cdsnet.net >writes: > ><nav/com >doesnt matter. > > > > > List Support Contributions: >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Ordorff Systems video?
Depends on whay you mean by comprehensive. Not only could they not cover all the equipment possibilities, it is not possible to give a step-by-step report of 2000 hours in a few hours of video. However.... The -6A videos are of the second RV they built. They know the pitfalls and show you how to deal with the major problems of construction. For the rest, they give you a good general idea of how the work is done. As someone mentioned, George spends a good deal of time drilling and clecoing - you will, too. George discusses his building decisions and shows you what he did based on that. If you choose to use different radio, antennas, engine, and/or prop than he did, you will not follow the same path. In fact, I watched his wing videos and then skinned mine in a different sequence than he did. I have all of his RV-6a videos and the sheet-metal video. I have found them extremely useful as a reference and for ideas on to proceed. George prefaces each set with the caveat that they are for entertainment purposes and not intended to be a step-by-step guide, but my opinion is that they come pretty darn close, especially if you use them to clear up visualization problems with the written plans and manual. Nothing, however, beats asking another (or several) RVer to show you what they did on their project. PatK - RV-6A Randy Lervold wrote: > > Anyone viewd the Orndorff Aircraft Systems videos? Just wondering if you > thought they were comprehensive and valuable. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Rich Rich Rich
I would check your primer system (if installed) to make sure that it isn't feeding the engine. It's good that you have tried other carbs to rule out that problem, however, what is your fuel flow/burn? Are you using a "standard" (FAB) intake system? Perhaps your system creates turbulence in the induction system. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RADIO-on a serious note-YAESU
> >I saw an advertisement for the YAESU super small handheld radio in the AOPA >Pilot. I was wondering if anyone has gotten one of those. JR JR, A friend just bought one of these last week. Seems to be a real nice unit though I havent had much opportunity to play with it. Note that they had to disable the localizer feature which was originally part of the radio. Story I got was some kind of patent infringement issue. Ive used Yaesu ham handhelds for years and wouldnt hesitate to recommend them. Cost was $499 from Marv Golden Aviation Supplies. Mike Wills RV-4 fuse willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: Ordorff Systems video?
>Randy Lervold wrote: >> >> Anyone viewd the Orndorff Aircraft Systems videos? Just wondering if you >> thought they were comprehensive and valuable. > > I referenced the videos while building my 6A. They are well worth their cost. One thing to keep in mind, on his videos, George initially mounted the oil cooler on the rear baffle. He had to move it up front as his oil temps were too high. He installed the same engine as me, O-320 D1A from Van's. The ports that George used on the engine for oil supply and return are not the ports that Lycoming recommends. I do not know if this was by accident or intentional. I used the proper ports, as recommended by Lycoming, and mounted my oil cooler on the rear baffle (same place where George had problems). My oil temps are just fine. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Sales Tax
Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here. Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars. Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did you use? Thanks. Bill Thomas Fuselage -6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: O-340-A1A
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Call the manufacturer and ask. It might be just the pistons and jugs are larger than a O-320. It might be the crank throw is longer. It might be that O-360 jug and pistons work fine as experimental. -----Original Message----- From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 10:19 AM Subject: RV-List: O-340-A1A > >Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's >still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes >the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and >that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts? > >Dan DeNeal >Skinning the 6A fueslage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
Subject: Infinity Grips
Last week I received 2 Infinity Grips for my birthday from JD at Infinity Aerospace. No matter that I wont use them for 2 years, I just had to have them. I can just say that they are absolutely incredible. They look great, feel great, and the workmanship is tremendous. JD has done an incredible job, and I cannot imagine no having them in my plane. If you are considering grips, take a look at his web site http://www.flash.net/~infaero or call him at 619-448-5103. They pictures do not do justice for the beauty of these grips. Dan Wiesel RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working skins on.....awaiting finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RADIO
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Von, Tell us more about your experience with this radio. Steve Soule -----Original Message----- I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; www.valavionics.com, or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RADIO
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Steve; I just happen to live in Salem, Or. where these Val radios are made; I have no connection with them, but I can tell you they are a first class operation. I had one of their radios in my Cardinal and was very happy with it. Of course they are very popular with the RVers around here and they have all spoken highly of them. In the RV-8 that I am building, I would probably not recommend this radio, because it is very deep in size, and only leaves about 1/2" in back before the front baggage wall. I did manage to make it fit, though. Should be fine in the 4's and 6's. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com writes: > >Von, > >Tell us more about your experience with this radio. > >Steve Soule > > -----Original Message----- > > I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; >www.valavionics.com, > or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com > > > > > List Support Contributions: >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Searching for a name/airplane
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters? Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4. Long shot! Regards, Steven B. Janicki Sr. Director Oracle Data Center 500 Oracle Pkwy Redwood Shores, CA 94065 650-506-2740 name="Steve B Janicki.vcf" filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Janicki;Steve;B FN:Steve B Janicki ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center TITLE:Sr. Director TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740 TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165 ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA URL: URL:http://www.oracle.com EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com REV:19981130T205629Z END:VCARD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
Each state is different, but in most cases, you gotta pay! There is much in the archives about this topic. As I recall we discussed numerous state policies and various ways to avoid the tax. None of the tax avoidance seemed to really work, but you might be able to reduce the tax bill, depending on what you claim for the cost to buy the parts to build the plane, i.e, do you include the cost of radios (maybe), paint and primer (probably not, especially if you paid sales tax when you bought it at the local paint store). Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont CA Bill Thomas wrote: > > > Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects > sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here. > Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so > collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of > airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership > and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would > appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars. > > Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or > other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did > you use? Thanks. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity Grips
Date: Nov 30, 1998
I second his answer regarding these grips...they are excellent...I can not wait to fly with mine! I plan on updating my webpage soon with pictures of all of my newly received goodies..(avionics, engine, finish kit, grips, etc) Paul Besing RV-6A 197AB Arizona http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er Canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: charles(at)onramp.net (charles young)
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
See the Search Engine. Yes, they do come after you in Texas. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Subject: Re: RMI Discount Buy
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Listers, To date I have the following "orders" for the RMI quantity discount buy: (2) uEncoder Kits (4) uMonitor Kits Thus, we do not qualify under RMI's terms. I guess many lister's decided the small 5% discount was simply not enough to make it worthwhile (as I did, since the savings would only be about $30-$40 on each unit). Unless I get a flood of e-mails wanting in by tonight, I consider the group purchase off at this point. Regards, Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picking up engine tonight!). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott E Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net>
Subject: I took off my brake springs, heres what I found ...
Date: Nov 30, 1998
I still had brakes that were dragging so I got new brake springs from vans. The old ones I took off measured 3.5 inches, 3.9 inches, 3.5 inches, 4.0 inches. The new ones I received were about 4.25 inches. I will let the list know if this does not cure the dragging brakes, but I suspect it will. Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
In a message dated 11/30/1998 12:40:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net writes: << Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here >> I have first hand knowledge and some tips on the state sales tax in Connecticut and can give you fairly good tips. The state of Connecticut will be looking for sales tax when they see an aircraft registration (happened to me on my first homebuilt). They will expect you to prove that you have paid the taxes. I have already registered my RV6, so I am expecting the letter any day (they seem to get aircraft registrations something like quarterly). I contacted the state for the form and paid the sales tax on the kit as soon as I received the first kit. Now when they contact me (a letter saying that they see you have recently registered an aircraft in the state and pay the sales tax or prove you have paid it), I have documentation to show them. Contact me OFF LIST and I can provide you with additional hints. david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 n44df started ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: ride/demo
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Ok, After seeing a similar request, I am getting ready to build the -6A. Is there anyone willing to fly one into Harrisburg, PA - or the surrounding area so I might be able to get a ride and check out the plane?? Bryan A. Gembusia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: RADIO
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Sorry, I have to agree with JR. But, since we are asking, how much are gear teeth for a RV-6A, I hear that "Gear teeth" companies REALLY mark these up for RV's. Bryan > -----Original Message----- > From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com [SMTP:JRWillJR(at)aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 2:04 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: RADIO > > > "How much is a radio for a 6A?" Actually "radio companies" charge more for > radios in a 6A than for a plain old 6 or 4. I sometimes use smoke signals > or a > can on a string--real cheap. Radio Shack has some nice walkie talkies. > How's > about NO radio--very cheap and light? Couldn't resist so go ahead and > flame > me. JR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: Sales Tax
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Pennsylvania does not charge sales tax on out-of-state purchases. Also, a business in PA does not have to charge state sales tax on a purchase being shipped out of state. BG > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Thomas [SMTP:wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net] > Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:16 PM > To: RVLIST(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Sales Tax > > > Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects > sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here. > Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so > collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of > airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership > and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would > appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars. > > Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or > other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did > you use? Thanks. > > Bill Thomas > Fuselage -6A > > > > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Searching for a name/airplane
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Steve, Have you tried to lookup him or the N-number in one of the pilot or aircraft search engines? Try avweb.com or landings.com and look for "database" and/or "search" links. Amazing how much info is available that you only thought was protected by the privacy act;) Regards, Greg Young RV6 N6GY (reserved) fitting canopy Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters? Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Electric Flap Question
On the electric flap jack screw mechanism, there is a rod end which connects it to the flap actuator weldment. To fix this rod end to the extension rod of the mechanism, there is a jamb nut. How does one keep the extension rod from turning when tightening the jamb nut? It seems a little un-airplane like to grab the extension rod with a pipe wrench. Loctite? The failure mode would be a rather sudden flap retraction, something I don't want to test. Alex Peterson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Searching for a name/airplane
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane > > By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters? Steven I ran this name on http://www.avweb.com/database/airman/airman.cgi and it came up blank. You might want to add this to your favorites - it's a quick access to registered airmen. AVWeb has several databases that may be helpful. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: O-340-A1A
Date: Nov 30, 1998
>Anybody had any experience with this engine. I have found one that's >still haning on a Cherokee. It has 15?? hours and the price includes >the CS prop. A friend mentioned that this engine is a rare one and >that parts would be harder to come by and expensive. Any thoughts? > > If I recall correctly the O-340 is a hybrid using a mix of parts from an O-320 and an O-360. The arcives contain a lot of discution about this engine. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Top skin overlap
Date: Nov 30, 1998
> >Hello all you RV-6 builders. The top skins F-674 and F-675 overlap by >about >two inches. The manual says to trim the overlap. Has anyone simply >drilled >two parallel rows of rivet holes and riveted them together much like >we do >with the wing skins and the fuselage side skins? > > The reason for the extra material is that since the tail cone area is a conical shape, the rivet line made by the bulkheads on the skin (if the bulkheads are held in their proper position) makes a slightly curved line if the skin as laid flat after drilling. Your rivet line should be quite close to the end of the skin down near the longerons. The extra will primarily be over the top of the turtle deck. So what is usually done is to drill the skin and then measure the trim line back from the rivet line. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
Date: Nov 30, 1998
> >Seems like a stupid question even for me as I'm typing. When >measuring the >travel on the control surfaces, I assume the angle ie: 20-25 degrees >for >example is measured from level 90 degrees and not from the angle of >the >elevator surface as it sits in trail since the surface is not 90 >degrees to >horizontal. Am I thinking straight on this??? > The next RVator should have a small article on this since it seems to be a confusing issue to many. You are checking for the specified # of deg. in deflection from neutral on the given control surface. This can be done with out referencing anything to the cord line. use any tool that can measure in degrees ( a digital level, analog style protractor gage, etc.). As an example - the following would be to check elevator travel Set the tool on the elevator with it positioned at neutral and note the reading (lets say it says + 24 deg.). Now swing the elevator to its full down positions and again note the reading (lets say that it now reads 49 deg.) All we care about is what the range of motion is in deg so we subtract the neutral value of 24 from the total value of 49 and we see that we have a range of motion of 25 deg. The same is done for the up travel though it will likely have two deg. values that are on different sides of zero which means that you then add the two together. Like +24 for neutral and +11 for full up. When added together you have a range of travel of 35 deg. This may at first seem confusing, but if you watch the instrument to see what the total swing in degrees is of the travel from neutral it will make sense and you will be able to tell whether to add or subtract. It is hard to measure the rudder travel this way (unless you want to lay your airplane on it's side) but you usually get close to the correct amount of travel if the rudder hits the stop when the elevator gets no closer to the rudder than about 1 inch when you swing the elevator up and down through it's travel. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Stall warner photo & directions, RV-6A engine photos
Listers, I finally got that photo scanner. RV stall warning vane/switch information (mounting diagram, photo, description) and my RV-6A O- 360 engine mounting photos are at my web site, http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ---------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
In a message dated 11/30/98 3:05:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, DFaile(at)aol.com writes: << Now when they contact me (a letter saying that they see you have recently registered an aircraft in the state and pay the sales tax or prove you have paid it), I have documentation to show them. >> David Let all of us listers in on what the final outcome is. I am interested in knowing if they will be "satisfied" with sales tax on a "kit", or if they also go after sales tax on the more expensive avionics, instrumentation, and engine/prop parts. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Stephen, Just to add my two cents worth, I have a VAL radio in my four and constantly get comments on how well it sounds to other stations. It is clear as a bell in the 4 as well. I have spoken to other aircraft in the air over 100 miles away. Well worth the money in my opinion. The only complait I have is that it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to set them every time. Joe Hine C-FYTQ RV-4 > >Von, > >Tell us more about your experience with this radio. > >Steve Soule > > -----Original Message----- > > I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; >www.valavionics.com, > or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: rear top skin rivets
Date: Nov 30, 1998
I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet them on at this stage to make easy access to the fuselage for wiring, controls, etc. The instructions seem to imply that it would be better to leave riveting for later. However, at this point I have the rear fixed up with padding and a floorboard which I needed to have in place for drilling. Sure seems like it would be easier to buck rivets in the rear without an elevator push tube in place and no floor board. Anyone have recommendations on the question of "to rivet or not to rivet"? One choice would be to rivet the rear skin but leave the one behind the canopy for later. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RADIO
VON L ALEXANDER wrote: > > > I highly recommend the Val com 760. Contact them at; www.valavionics.com, > or e-mail; info(at)valavionics.com > > Von Alexander > RV-8 N41VA > N41VA(at)juno.com > > > >In a message dated 11/29/98 5:36:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, > >dreed(at)cdsnet.net > >writes: > > > >< >nav/com > >doesnt matter. > > > > > > > > I like the Val radios enough to have two of them you can see my panel by clicking on the link that takes you to Matts Matronics site. You well see the two Vals right below Matts FuelScan.:-) http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896jerry.jpg Jerry Springer Hillsboro, OR RV-6 First flight July 14,1989 jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
Bill, I went thru this when I purchased/built/registered my Kitfox. I don't see a way around paying the use tax in CT. The state gets a list of aircraft registrations from the FAA. Guess you could register your plane in Delaware but I don't know what can of worms that would open with the FAA. I fess up and pay the tax on each kit as I buy it. So far that spreads the the tax costs out to one kit a year(s). One other thing: keep all your tax returns and original checks. I have been asked twice by the state to prove I paid the tax. Luck for me I'm anal about keeping all tax documents. > >Here in Connecticut, as I suspect in other states, the state expects >sales tax to be paid on purchases made out of state but delivered here. >Of course, they have a tough time identifying such transactions, so >collection is difficult. However, we have a statewide registration of >airplanes, so the state is able to cross reference airplane ownership >and whether a tax has been paid. At least in theory, kit airplanes would >appear to be taxable......to the tune of some hundreds of dollars. > >Do any of the listers have experience with this issue in Connecticut or >other states? Did you have to pay? If you escaped, what rationale did >you use? Thanks. > >Bill Thomas >Fuselage -6A > > John Ciolino RV-8 jbc1(at)Ziplink.net Hartford, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: VOR Antennas
peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com writes: > Has anyone out there installed a VOR antenna on the top of the vertical > stabilizer, as is done on many factory planes? I know that someone else mentioned Sportcraft antennas by Bob Archer. What I did was to fabricate a wingtip VOR antenna using the dimensions in the AeroElectric Connection. I'm using a splitter for the VOR/LOC & GS signals. It works great! I'm able to pick up VOR signals up to 100 miles away, and no problems with the LOC & GS signals. I managed to fabricate the antenna in one evening, out of scrap materials I already had laying around. I did use heavier material than what was called out in the plans. It specified .020 material, but .020 seemed too flimsy. Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV Broken Arrow, Ok MLaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
><< you should use the cord line of the surface. >> > >What kind of cord did you use? > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) LD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Primer questions.
John Hughes wrote..... "I have a few questions reguarding building up my three cylinder primer system for my O-360A1A powered RV-6.My main question is reguarding a part in the A.S. catolog on P106,it's called a Union Cone (P.N. AN-800-2)......Any Thoughts?" John --- I did the primers on my 0360 A1A a couple of months ago. At the ports used AN4022 Primer Fittings with the AN800 "Code Union". I soldered this union to copper tubing using silver solder and the normal flux for silver solder. This is fastened to the Primer Fitting with an AN805 nut. I used copper tubing back to aluminum "tee"s (MS208252D) on crankcase/oilpan bolts secured with modified Adel clamps near the base of cylinders #2 and #4. I joined the two "tee"s with 1/8 aluminum tubing and used the aluminum tubing back to a plunger-type primer on the panel (with the an anti-vibration loop, firewall fittings, etc.) and from there back to the fitting on top of gascolator. Used the normal MS20819 sleeves and AN818 nuts for connecting the copper and aluminum tubing to the aluminum fittings. That's what this first-time builder did (and if we get feedback that its wrong, well.....that's what this is about). Aircraft Spruce shipped to me stainless Code Union fittings. I had trouble soldering them to copper (it takes a special flux). It never occurred to me to use stainless tubing. I wound up ordering brass Code Unions from Wicks to go with copper. So you at least have dodged that one! Keith Williams RV6 - interior and final under panel checks before installing the boot-cowl on slider 73623.2504(at)compuserve.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Electric Flap Question
Alex, You can use something like channel locks with something soft in the jaws. Or like I did, file or machine slight flats on the end and use an adjustable wrench. It doesn't take much torque. You can rig the system, mark the rodend threads, unscrew it a few threads and apply a drop of lock tight. then tighten. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Electric Flap Question
<< On the electric flap jack screw mechanism, there is a rod end which connects it to the flap actuator weldment. To fix this rod end to the extension rod of the mechanism, there is a jam nut. How does one keep the extension rod from turning when tightening the jam nut? It seems a little un-airplane like to grab the extension rod with a pipe wrench.>> I clamped it in a soft jaw equipped vise. No visible distress. Absolutely. I used 242. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Melvin Barlow" <Melvin.Barlow(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Searching for a name/airplane
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Hi, Steven. Sadly, Bob Smeesters lost his life in the crash of his -4 in 1989. Report is in the Sept. '89 RVator. I met Bob earlier in '89 at a flyin at Orange, Ma. , which I attended with my -4. I don't recall much about his paint scheme, except that it resembled some of the 30's sportplane schemes such as on the GeeBees, Etc. -----Original Message----- From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:08 PM Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane > > >Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters? >Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a >photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme >looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain >some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4. > >Long shot! > >Regards, > >Steven B. Janicki >Sr. Director >Oracle Data Center >500 Oracle Pkwy >Redwood Shores, CA >94065 >650-506-2740 > > name="Steve B Janicki.vcf" > filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf" > >BEGIN:VCARD >VERSION:2.1 >N:Janicki;Steve;B >FN:Steve B Janicki >ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center >TITLE:Sr. Director >TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740 >TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165 >ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA >Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA >URL: >URL:http://www.oracle.com >EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com >REV:19981130T205629Z >END:VCARD > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Joe Hine wrote: > > Stephen, > > > . The only complait I have is that > it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to > set > them every time. > > Joe Hine > C-FYTQ RV-4 Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio just returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient, maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A. Derek Reed Fuselage RV6A Grants Pass OR [no sales tax, but you have to put up with the rain!!] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: LYCOMING PARTS
---wayne bonesteel wrote: > > > I need source for engine parts for my Lycoming O320 E2D, I have to > change the accessory housing because it is not machined for the fuel > pump, I have a case from O290 engine believe it's the same but I need > gear with cam (i think, haven't looked yet) and pump push rod and > gaskets. > Any help is appreciated. > > Wayne Wayne: Call El Reno Aviation 1004 South Country Club Road P.O. Box 760 El Reno, OK 73036 1 (800) 521-0333 Ask for their FREE price list for Lycoming engines. They should be able to help you over the phone with a new or used parts with the info you listed. I have the Lycoming Parts list at my hangar and can look up the part numbers for you. If you find the part in the LA Area, I will pick up and deliver for you. If I had the time, I would find and deliver for you. I LOVE flying into Tahoe. Had a nice dinner there Saturday night but drove because of weather. Should have called and had you and Terri join us. The accessory case that you have will work. I am the one who introduced you to Randy. When am I going to give your the ride I owe you in my RV? I left the airplane in Jackson Sunday became of weather. Hope to retrieve it this weekend. First time I had to leave the airplane because of weather. Have a fly out to Apple Valley on Saturday at 9:00 and should be at Alexander's RV Workshop to help out around 10:30. I do need to retrieve the airplane so that I can fly. = Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell Flying in So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
<< I have a VAL radio in my four and constantly get comments on how well it sounds to other stations. It is clear as a bell in the 4 as well. I have spoken to other aircraft in the air over 100 miles away. Well worth the money in my opinion. The only complaint I have is that it loses the frequencies when you turn it off>> I had one of these in my old Kitfox. I seem to remember that there is a memory hold up pin on the VAL radio that you can connect to the battery bus to retain stored freqs when radio power is cycled. I don't know how much it draws though. Maybe one could run power to this pin thru a small toggle switch to have control of this feature when you want it. Just a thought, -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: TCOlson <tcolson@Cedar-Rapids.Net>
Subject: Re: Performance Data for SENSENICH Prop for 0-360 Lycoming
Carroll Bird wrote: > > > TCOlson wrote: > > > > > > Data for Sensenich 72 FM Prop on RV6A tail No. 298TC > > (much snipped) > > Could you tell me what the pitch on your prop is. They sent me an 83" > pitch for a -4. > My prop has an 81" pitch that was recommended by Sensenich. Rgds Tom Olson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity Grips (for sale)
I got an Infinity Aero grip for the front seat of my RV-4. I decided not to install it. If someone is interested in picking one up for list than full price, send me a private message and I will tell you what switches are on it, etc. The grip is great. Very well made. Why don't I want it? Well, I changed my mind about having all those functions on my grip and I decided not to go to the effort to install it for just PTT for the radio. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane (916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1 (916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: rear top skin rivets
Gar Pessel wrote: > > > I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft > top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet them on at this > stage to make easy access to the fuselage for wiring, controls, etc. The > instructions seem to imply that it would be better to leave riveting for > later. However, at this point I have the rear fixed up with padding and a > floorboard which I needed to have in place for drilling. Sure seems like it > would be easier to buck rivets in the rear without an elevator push tube in > place and no floor board. Anyone have recommendations on the question of > "to rivet or not to rivet"? One choice would be to rivet the rear skin but > leave the one behind the canopy for later. > Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK Your last choice is the one I chose and it worked out well. Sam Buchanan (getting ready to do engine stuff) "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Trustmaster Sticks
<< Has anyone heard of Trustmaster sticks and is it true that they are half the price of Infinity sticks? >> Norman, Let me first say I have one of the infinity stick grips in the front seat of my 4 and am quite pleased with it. I also have one of the thrust master joy sticks sitting next to me here at the computer. The infinity grip was quite expensive when I bought it many years ago and I am sure its only more so now. If memory serves me right the thrustmaster joystick was less than half the price of the infinity grip. The infinity grip required alot of cutting and modification in order to make it fit the tube and secure it. I am sure it would be no more trouble to make the thrustmaster grip fit. The switches on the thrustmaster would probably need to be replaced with better switches that could be found in an electronics shop. I have changed 2 switches in mine and it cost me less than 5 bucks. The thrustmaster joystick that I have is exactly the same size and shape as my infinity grip. On my next project I intend to try and modify a thrustmaster grip and see what happens. Hope this answers some of you question. Ryan Bendure Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Searching for a name/airplane
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Melvin, I was afraid that would turn out to be the case. Interestingly enough, I went back to the b&w photo on the RVator and managed to retrieve the N number or so I believe. It now belongs to another RV-4. I was going to contact that person but now that I know the RV-4 I am searching for is no more I will cease. I did like the paint scheme and will somehow figure out what the overall scheme resembled. ----- Original Message ----- From: Melvin Barlow <Melvin.Barlow(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:03 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane Hi, Steven. Sadly, Bob Smeesters lost his life in the crash of his -4 in 1989. Report is in the Sept. '89 RVator. I met Bob earlier in '89 at a flyin at Orange, Ma. , which I attended with my -4. I don't recall much about his paint scheme, except that it resembled some of the 30's sportplane schemes such as on the GeeBees, Etc. -----Original Message----- From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:08 PM Subject: RV-List: Searching for a name/airplane > > >Hello, By chance does anyone on this list know of a Robert Smeesters? >Originally from Lawrence, MA. Looking through a 1988 RVator I noticed a >photo of his RV-4, which was completed that year. Anyway, his paint scheme >looks great to me and I want to find him/the airplane in order to obtain >some photo's to use as reference for paining my RV-4. > >Long shot! > >Regards, > >Steven B. Janicki >Sr. Director >Oracle Data Center >500 Oracle Pkwy >Redwood Shores, CA >94065 >650-506-2740 > > name="Steve B Janicki.vcf" > filename="Steve B Janicki.vcf" > >BEGIN:VCARD >VERSION:2.1 >N:Janicki;Steve;B >FN:Steve B Janicki >ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center >TITLE:Sr. Director >TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740 >TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165 >ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA >Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA >URL: >URL:http://www.oracle.com >EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com >REV:19981130T205629Z >END:VCARD > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Rich Rich Rich
Scott, How long has this thing been sitting? Have you run a compression check and made sure that your fowling isnt due to oil blowing past the rings? Just another angle. Ryan Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: SMEESTERS RV4
Date: Nov 30, 1998
Thanks to all that responded. I had checked the www.landings.com Database where I was only able to find the serial number and no other data pertaining to Smeester. When I looked closer at the RVator picture and was able to read the N number I did another search. Strangely it returned an RV-4 with and 0-320 engine located in Maryland. The number must have been put back in the pool. Just strange that it went to another RV-4! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Infinity Grips
Suzie Q has the Infinity grip in the front office and, as I have stated before, I REALLY like it. It fits my hand perfectly, is very comfortably to fly with and is quite functional. It is not difficult to wire the different functions to the switches and gives you more of a hands-on control when you need it. It is also well made and, if the switches aren't what you need (say, a momentary instead of an on/off) they are easily changed. It was also very easy to install; well, as easy as any other electrical item. The grip itself slipped right on the control tube. If I remember right, you order according to the tube diameter you want and it is a slip-on-and-bolt installation. He went through quite a few variations before he had the grip he wanted to sell a lot of. Worth the work. I don't have to release the stick to: flip/flop com channels; change the com stand-by channel; push to ident; turn the landing or taxi lights on; and of course, push-to-talk. And it looks really cool. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Year two ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
<< << you should use the cord line of the surface. >> > >What kind of cord did you use? > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >> Leo- You are as always a cunning linguist. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
When I registered my Fox I had to pay sales tax on the basic kit. I did not pay sales tax on all the other mail order items such as radios etc. If asked tell them there are none--I keep saying how about no radio or anything else for that matter. I did not pay tax on the finishing kit nor on my labor. I think there may be a statute of limitations on how far back a purchased item is eligble for sales tax. I think the kit is not taxable and not registered because it is just a pile of parts--most mail order--some local purchase--some homemade(YES), therefore taxes are not owed until the plane is finished and registered. Here is an idea---purchase a partial kit or basic kit and then register the aircraft--when you receive a tax notice pay the taxes owed on that portion and the tax man may forget about you and all the rest of the things you buy. JR--willing to pay my fair share so the goverment can waste it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: rear top skin rivets
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Gar, I'm at this point with my non-quick build. I am leaning toward riveting the top skin that is closest to the tail and leaving the larger one until after I get the controls built and the canopy installed. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft top skins. The instructions say one does not have to rivet them on at this stage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: LYCOMING PARTS
might wont to call Bobby's planes 'n parts 817 682 4220 our chapter #19 , has purchased 5 engines for various projects . 4 for rvs and a cozy mark 4. will swap out the accessory case.will work with you on any parts you need. He is a pleasure to work with. RV6A one gear wings and engine installed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Alternator question
Date: Dec 01, 1998
I have a 40 amp circuit breaker for the alternator. It has a "line" and "load" terminal. Where should I attach the wire from the alternator? To the "line" terminal or the "load" terminal??? Thanks Bob Cabe Getting close in San Antonio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Maximum EGT
Date: Dec 01, 1998
What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located 6" down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high as 1500 degrees. Is that too high??? Thanks Bob Cabe (For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com>
Subject: Sales Tax and out of state building
I was wondering what if you happened to buy some of the kits in one state, and the rest in a another, what tax do you owe? In my case, I'm building in Norway right now. I plan to return to the States at some point and finish my RV then. If I build my tail and wings here, what right does any State have to charge me sales tax when I then register it? Thanks Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >> > > > >What kind of cord did you use? > > > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >> > > Leo- > > You are as always a cunning linguist. > > -GV Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line" -Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: Maximum EGT
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Kevin, I have my probes 2" down from the flange and am seeing about 1350* max during cruise while leaned to the rich side. Unless you have probe accuracy problems, 1500* at 6" seems on the high side..... Mag Timing, and fuel related problems (Float level, jet sizes) can cause high exhaust gas temp problems..... Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct > -----Original Message----- > From: Kevin Beaton [SMTP:kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com] > Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:19 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Maximum EGT > > > What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located > 6" > down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high > as 1500 degrees. Is that too high??? > > Thanks > Bob Cabe > (For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RADIO
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Correction; it goes to 121.9 as ground frequency. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com > >Joe Hine wrote: > >> >> Stephen, >> >> >> . The only complait I have is that >> it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary >to >> set >> them every time. >> >> Joe Hine >> C-FYTQ RV-4 > >Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio >just >returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last >active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers >use >this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient, >maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could >change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A. > >Derek Reed Fuselage RV6A >Grants Pass OR [no sales tax, but you have to put up with the rain!!] > >> >> > > > > > List Support Contributions: >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > >See the Search Engine. >Yes, they do come after you in Texas. Charles, Here is your quote from the archives: "The State of Texas realizes it is missing sizeable revenues due to "mail order businesses" and is getting very aggressive in attempting to collect same. One mail order company I use monthly, has started charging Texas Sales Tax." Have you had them ask you for sales tax on a Van's kit? I do a lot of mail order stuff for my other side-work: cabinet making. I choose catalog companies which are out of state on purpose. If Texas is going to join the ranks of pick-pocket states I may have to think about moving again. :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: "Scott \"Sky\" Smith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: insurance
Recently there have been numerous dicssions about RV Insurance. I just wanted to clarifiy the SkySmith program. We spent three years developing a relationship with the insurance company and Vans to offer the most product for the best price. It is important that insureds research each company. I would like to point out that the coverages that most companies offer is no where close to what we have. In fact, the lowest priced one has exclusions that state "they will not pay for claims from "defective, inadequate design, plans materials or workmanship." This hints to me that they'll only pay if you have pilot error or an act of nature. Our coverage includes first flight (from hour one), off airport landing, premise liability and non owned coverage (just to list a few things). There are other extras available - like non owned hull (both non owned coverages work for factory or custom built planes) Dual requirements are flexible and the underwriter is very happy to develop unique training programs on a per case basis. And if you fly with Mike Sager it usually qualifies you to fly your own. Originally we set up an "RV Group" with dicounts on products. We can make that available to anyone that is interested. TKM Radios, Magellan GPS, Lightspeed, Telex, Flightcom headsets and intercoms...almost anything that our company has access to is available to our insureds for cost + freight and something for the company. Usually less than TAP or discounts. We offer this just as a service for the insureds. Feel free to ask questions and accept my apology if I took to much space. Thanks again, Scott Sky Smith ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Alternator question
<< I have a 40 amp circuit breaker for the alternator. It has a "line" and "load" terminal. Where should I attach the wire from the alternator? To the "line" terminal or the "load" terminal??? >> First of all, the 40A breaker is too small a capacity (assuming you have one of the 35A alts). You will get nuisance trips. To prevent this, the breaker should be sized >130% of your alternator's continuous rated capacity. I would suggest no less than a 50A breaker for a 35A alt, but Bob Nuckoll's 80A inline fuse would work for all alternators in the 35-60A range. The alternator would connect to the "line" side. "Load" side to the switched side of the master contactor. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale
I am building an RV-4 and am ready to take the fuselage and second wing off their respective jigs. The fuselage jig is a Stephen Frey jig used only once. It includes the "bird cage" option. I am asking $900.00. The wing jig is a welded steel assembly that has been used to make one set of wings. Price: $150.00. Dean Pichon Pichon.Dean(at)ADLittle.com Cambridge, MA (617) 498-6525 (781) 646-8456 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Maximum EGT
Date: Dec 01, 1998
ALL EGT temperatures are relative. Relative to placement, altitude, mixture, humidity, ambient temperature, throttle setting, rpm, baffle differences, cowl efficiency. They are useful setting mixture for most power and best economy PERIOD. CHT are absolute. They are specified by manufacturer... EGT is NOT. ALL EGT temperatures are relative. -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Maximum EGT > >What is the maximum EGT I should see on an O-320. The probes are located 6" >down on the exhaust, right where they should be. I'm seeing temps as high >as 1500 degrees. Is that too high??? > >Thanks >Bob Cabe >(For an RV-6A friend in San Antonio) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Val Radio
From: hombilt(at)Juno.com (Marvin E Morrison)
Listers: Watching all the conmments on the Val Radio brings to mind I have one laying here that was used about 20-25 hours in a PT-2B that I sold. I have the intercom module with it and will sell both for $500. I am probably short the instructions on the intercom module. Please contact me personally if you are interested. Thanks Marvin phone-512=-898-2985 RV-8 ready for engine installation Taylor, Tx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Antennas
Recent listings regarding antennas remind me that Jim Weir, who runs Radio Systems Technologies in California, authored several articles over ten years ago describing how to make your own antennas using copper foil - the kind used in making stained glass windows. I built a full set of these antennas for my current airplane (all glass, not an RV), including vor, glideslope, marker, and com, and they have worked perfectly for many years. If memory serves me, I bought a whole roll of copper foil for probably under $10......which made all my antennas with enough material left over for another twenty airplanes! I am building a -6A, and plan to use these antennas in the glass wing tips. There's no place except inside the canopy (ugh!) to put the vertical com antenna, so guess I'll get a store-bought one. RST advertises in the classifieds in some airplane magazines, maybe Kitplanes, and it might be worth a call to Jim to see if his old articles are still available. Years ago, Jim sent me a copy free of charge. Billl Thomas Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax and out of state building
Date: Dec 01, 1998
> > >I was wondering what if you happened to buy some of the kits in one state, >and the rest in a another, what tax do you owe? > >In my case, I'm building in Norway right now. I plan to return to the >States at some point and finish my RV then. If I build my tail and wings >here, what right does any State have to charge me sales tax when I then >register it? > >Thanks > >Joe Instead of sales tax, its called use tax. Most states charge a sales tax if bought within state. If you purchase something from another state, you are required by most states to pay a use tax if you bring it into that state (usually only if the use tax is greater than the origin state's sales tax). Rob Acker (RV-6Q, been trying to pay my use tax for 2 1/2 years now but nobody in the State office has enough competence to know how to take my money even if I read them the tax code, meanwhile the penalties add up). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
While you lolligaggers are looking for cord line, does anyone have a roll of flight line I could have a chunk of? ;) Happy Holidays! Doug Hormann Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >> > > > >What kind of cord did you use? > > > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Too bad you on the other side of the country else I would be interested! ----- Original Message ----- From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 10:23 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Fuselage and Wing Jigs for Sale I am building an RV-4 and am ready to take the fuselage and second wing off their respective jigs. The fuselage jig is a Stephen Frey jig used only once. It includes the "bird cage" option. I am asking $900.00. The wing jig is a welded steel assembly that has been used to make one set of wings. Price: $150.00. Dean Pichon Pichon.Dean(at)ADLittle.com Cambridge, MA (617) 498-6525 (781) 646-8456 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DICKLRV6A(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: engine sump
Hi Dave, I had the same problem and found an exchange sump at "ENPARTS" 700 Ferris Rd. Hangar 1A - 10A Lancaster Airport Lancaster, Texas 75146 1-800-444-3305 FAX: 214-227-7672 Good Luck, Dick Larash - 6A finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: AEIO-360 for sale
Listers: This posted for a friend: FACTORY NEW with 1 hour run time Approx. $16,500 Call: John Zidek 913-491-2944 (KC area) Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 11/30/98
Date: Dec 01, 1998
> From: Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: RV-List: Sales Tax > > Do any of the listers have experience with this > issue in Connecticut or > other states? Did you have to pay? If you > escaped, what rationale did > you use? Thanks. > ________________________________________________________________________________ Revenue, their excise tax is based on the cost of the materials. I was told that I needed to bring in all receipts, and they would determine the tax, including credit for any Washington sales tax paid. I'd be interested in stories from any Washington state folks that have been through this. I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next year... :) Bill Lattimer Gettin' started on N558RV in December... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Free Standing Wing Jig
Date: Dec 01, 1998
I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing jig, has anybody had any luck with this. Chris Santschi. Festus, MO. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Date: Dec 01, 1998
> Joe Hine wrote: > > Stephen, > > . The only complait I have is that > > it looses the frequencys when you turn it off, making it necessary to > > set > > them every time. > > Joe Hine > > C-FYTQ RV-4 Listers, I run a VAL and there is a memory circuit that you fuse with a 1 amp fuse to hold the last frequencies that were used. I can look up the pin number if someone wants me to go that far. I took the fuse out of mine because my battery would not start the engine after I had let it sit for a long time one winter. It might have been a coincidence but I haven't replaced the fuse to find out. It's easier to toggle the frequencies and not have to think about current draw on the battery, however slight it may be. Jim Nolan N444JN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Subject: rear top skin rivets
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Gar: On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing you need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other than that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I finish the canopy (which I am doing now). I am at the finish kit, and I have not wished I had not riveted that skin on for anything. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er Canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: RV-list Digest 11/30/98
In a previous message, it was written: >I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll >my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next year... :) Receipts? What receipts? Mike T@@@@@@@ Somewhere, TX -6 Prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Wing Jig
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing >jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > Took me a while to find this - I knew I had seen it somewhere. Check out the following: http://www.flion.com/rv6a/toc.htm Good luck!! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Free Standing Wing Jig
<< I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing jig, has anybody had any luck with this. Chris Santschi. >> The Frey wing stands are free-standing. It looked in the brochures that the upright was a pc of 3" sq tubing with the arms welded on, and a large plate welded to the bottom. It looks like the plate is 10" square, with concrete anchors at each corner. I'd guess that you would level/plumb the stands with opposing nuts on too long anchors. You'll need four stands to do two wings. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: insurance
Scott Please fax me more info on this insurance John McMahon 615-451-0893=fax 615-452-8742=Home Scott "Sky" Smith wrote: > > Recently there have been numerous dicssions about RV Insurance. I just > wanted to clarifiy the SkySmith program. We spent three years developing a > relationship with the insurance company and Vans to offer the most product > for the best price. > > It is important that insureds research each company. I would like to point > out that the coverages that most companies offer is no where close to what > we have. In fact, the lowest priced one has exclusions that state "they > will not pay for claims from "defective, inadequate design, plans materials > or workmanship." This hints to me that they'll only pay if you have pilot > error or an act of nature. > > Our coverage includes first flight (from hour one), off airport landing, > premise liability and non owned coverage (just to list a few things). > There are other extras available - like non owned hull (both non owned > coverages work for factory or custom built planes) > > Dual requirements are flexible and the underwriter is very happy to develop > unique training programs on a per case basis. And if you fly with Mike > Sager it usually qualifies you to fly your own. > > Originally we set up an "RV Group" with dicounts on products. We can make > that available to anyone that is interested. TKM Radios, Magellan GPS, > Lightspeed, Telex, Flightcom headsets and intercoms...almost anything that > our company has access to is available to our insureds for cost + freight > and something for the company. Usually less than TAP or discounts. We > offer this just as a service for the insureds. Feel free to ask questions > and accept my apology if I took to much space. Thanks again, Scott Sky Smith > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Antennas
> >RST advertises in the classifieds in >some airplane magazines, maybe Kitplanes, and it might be worth a call >to Jim to see if his old articles are still available. Years ago, Jim >sent me a copy free of charge. > RST sells a little book which is collection of the old articles - $5. They sell a kit of th book, 100 ft of copper tape and some torroids - $29. Go to: http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/catalog/antpar.html Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Help With Email Address
Brian at the address below contacted me off list with some EAA Technical Counselor questions. I answered them at the address below, bot the mail keeps bouncing. Could Brian pleas contact me again! bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au I live in Albany, Western Ausralia and am building an RV6, david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 n44df started ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Wing Jig
Chris I have Four of them that I used to build my wings..... John McMahon E-mail=rv6(at)earthlink.net Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote: > > > << I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing > jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > > Chris Santschi. >> > The Frey wing stands are free-standing. It looked in the brochures that the > upright was a pc of 3" sq tubing with the arms welded on, and a large plate > welded to the bottom. It looks like the plate is 10" square, with concrete > anchors at each corner. I'd guess that you would level/plumb the stands with > opposing nuts on too long anchors. > > You'll need four stands to do two wings. > > Check six! > Mark > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 11/30/98
Except, I suppose, for those you have lost?? :~) hal > From my recent interface with the Washington Department of > Revenue, their excise tax is based on the cost of the > materials. I was told that I needed to bring in all > receipts, and they would determine the tax, including credit > for any Washington sales tax paid. I'd be interested in > stories from any Washington state folks that have been > through this. I am tempted to do just as they ask and roll > my 4-drawer cabinet of receipts down there next year... :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: rear top skin rivets
IMHO you will have less hassle if you rivet the large aft skin (F6112?) before you get too far on the slider canopy. My experience was that the canopy frame needs to be installed *FULLY* by which I mean, latches at front and into rear blocks and slides well on the rear track. I suppose you could do all this with the skin removed but not with it clecoed. I riveted both aft skins and suffered no grief. I cut the big skin about two inches behind the rear bow of the frame. The canopy frame on my QB was a poor fit; I cut it in two places to get it to fit. The front bow was wider on one side and the center tube was too short. The rear bow is off too but acceptable. I suggest getting the frame working without the plexiglass. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC > On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing you > need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other than > that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I finish the > canopy (which I am doing now). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
Subject: RE: rear top skin rivets & canopy
Date: Dec 01, 1998
>> On my QB, I riveted the furthest aft skin right away. The only thing you >> need to make sure you do is drill the seatbelt anchors first. Other than >> that, you should be OK. I left the forward top skin off until I finish the >> canopy (which I am doing now). >IMHO you will have less hassle if you rivet the large aft skin (F6112?) before >you get too far on the slider canopy. My experience was that the canopy frame >needs to be installed *FULLY* by which I mean, latches at front and into rear >blocks and slides well on the rear track. I suppose you could do all this with >the skin removed but not with it clecoed. I riveted both aft skins and suffered I had both of the rear top skins cleco'ed on, and put a few of the screws in the top slider rail to keep it on tight. I could then remove just the cleco's that interfered with the frame as it rolled back. No problem. Keep in mind you can put the cleco's in from the inside, which keeps them out of the way in many cases like this! Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA Engine mounted... President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators http://www.skybound.com/BARV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
If the tax man ever asks for the "unpaid" sales tax for my RV-6, my response will be: 1) I bought the kit second hand from an individual, who I'm sure already paid the sales tax. 2) I bought the engine used, therefore no sales tax to pay. 3) I bought all the expensive bits (radio, etc) at SNF, OSH, etc, and paid sales tax in those states. 4) I bought all of the miscellaneous stuff at the local hardware stores, paint stores, etc. Already paid sales tax on that. I hope it is a short discussion. Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bktrub(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Help With Email Address
I am on the RV List, but I think you might have another Brian I mind. I live in Washington state and am building an RV-4 and planning on installing a Mazda 13 B ratary engine in it. Good luck with your -6 Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: rear top skin rivets
> I am at the point on a qb6 where I am drilling in and preparing the two aft > top skins. Anyone have recommendations on the question of > "to rivet or not to rivet"? I built the slider, and to finish the canopy work the skins need to be riveted on. I haven't found any reason not to do so yet. Drill the shoulder belt anchor holes first. Alex P. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au>
Subject: Re: Help With Email Address
Date: Dec 02, 1998
G'day David, it's bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au You missed out the "LLLL". I take it you must have manually input the address. I did recieve your message saying you would reply later, so guess you found this out yourself. Thanks David, when you can will be fine. Cheers, Brian > Could Brian pleas contact me again! > > bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au L missing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Derek Reed wrote, about the VAL radio > >Joe, this may be a little misleading, as I understand it the radio just >returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last >active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use >this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient, >maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could >change this. However, I intend to put one in my RV6A. > and he is right, I didn't mean to mislead, the radio does go to the same frequency when you shut it off, although I don't remember what it is. The radio is still a good value for the money. One of you guys still building should jump on the one for sale on the list tonight. Joe Hine C-FYTQ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: RADIO
Date: Dec 01, 1998
GV wrote >I had one of these in my old Kitfox. I seem to remember that there is a >memory hold up pin on the VAL radio that you can connect to the battery bus to >retain stored freqs when radio power is cycled. I don't know how much it >draws though. > >Maybe one could run power to this pin thru a small toggle switch to have >control of this feature when you want it. > Thanks Gary, I'm going to check on this. You are a wealth of information. Joe Hine C-FYTQ RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
In a message dated 12/1/98 7:31:28 AM Pacific Standard Time, michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM writes: << Have you had them ask you for sales tax on a Van's kit? >> VAN'S is located in the state of Oregon, where there "is no sales tax". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ferdfly(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Free Standing Wing Jig
In a message dated 12/1/98 11:55:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes: << I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing jig, has anybody had any luck with this. Chris Santschi. Festus, MO. >> Of course Chris, but we bolt them to the floor .Here in So Cal WE use 2 in square tubing for the uprights with a piece of UNISTRUT channel welded to the side, and bolt the cross bars to that. Fred LaForge RV-4 7 hrs on the hobbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: Sales Tax
Date: Dec 01, 1998
I like this idea, but at what point can you register the aircraft??? BG > -----Original Message----- > From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com [SMTP:JRWillJR(at)aol.com] > Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 3:46 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Sales Tax > > > When I registered my Fox I had to pay sales tax on the basic kit. I did > not > pay sales tax on all the other mail order items such as radios etc. If > asked > tell them there are none--I keep saying how about no radio or anything > else > for that matter. I did not pay tax on the finishing kit nor on my labor. I > think there may be a statute of limitations on how far back a purchased > item > is eligble for sales tax. I think the kit is not taxable and not > registered > because it is just a pile of parts--most mail order--some local > purchase--some > homemade(YES), therefore taxes are not owed until the plane is finished > and > registered. Here is an idea---purchase a partial kit or basic kit and then > register the aircraft--when you receive a tax notice pay the taxes owed on > that portion and the tax man may forget about you and all the rest of the > things you buy. JR--willing to pay my fair share so the goverment can > waste > it. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: Rigging Elevators
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Only if you first clean it with a fresh can of "prop wash" BG > -----Original Message----- > From: Glenn & Judi [SMTP:glenng(at)megsinet.net] > Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:50 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Rigging Elevators > > > > Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >> > > > > > >What kind of cord did you use? > > > > > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >> > > > > Leo- > > > > You are as always a cunning linguist. > > > > -GV > > Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line" > > -Glenn Gordon > > > > > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Bendix-King Transponder installation
Just got my Bendix King KT-76A Transponder today in the mail. I bought this one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness, antennae, etc so an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of connectors and assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring, and no directions. Did I hear wrong? Dave Beizer Moreno Valley RV-6A inst panel and paint to go ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com>
Subject: Re: RADIO
> -Derek Reed wrote, about the VAL radio > > >the radio just > >returns to the std unicom frequency of 122.8 regardless of the last > >active freq.that you were on when you turn it off. Two local RVers use > >this radio and also agree that this anomaly is a little inconvenient, > >maybe if enough RVers or users were to complain to Vals they could > >change this. > > and he is right, I didn't mean to mislead, the radio does go to the same > frequency when you shut it off, although I don't remember what it is. > > Joe Hine > C-FYTQ Guys and Gals, I think the reason the VAL radio goes to the same freq after shutdown is to permit you to tune a freq if the visual display goes dead. You start with a known freq and flip the flippers the right number of clicks and there you go -- even without a display you can still transmit having known where the starting point is going to be. Don't overlook Walter Dittel or Becker radios from Germany. Not the least expensive but SMALL, good, and contain an intercom. Frank Zeck, Lisbon ND, RV4 N2ZK flying with Dittel radio. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com>
Subject: Free Standing Wing Jig
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Where can one find square tubing? -Larry Email: larry(at)bowen.com Web: http://larry.bowen.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ferdfly(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 9:33 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig In a message dated 12/1/98 11:55:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes: << I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing jig, has anybody had any luck with this. Chris Santschi. Festus, MO. >> Of course Chris, but we bolt them to the floor .Here in So Cal WE use 2 in square tubing for the uprights with a piece of UNISTRUT channel welded to the side, and bolt the cross bars to that. Fred LaForge RV-4 7 hrs on the hobbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 1998
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation
---PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Just got my Bendix King KT-76A Transponder today in the mail. I bought this > one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness, antennae, etc so > an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of connectors and > assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring, and no > directions. Did I hear wrong? > > Dave Beizer > Moreno Valley > RV-6A inst panel and paint to go Dave: Call your dealer and let him know. They are required by King to do the work. I purchased mine from the local Radio shop on the airport where I am based. I requested that it not be prewired so that I could do it. The owner said that King required it to be wired by him for the warranty. I asked if I could do it anyway. Since he knows me, he let me wire my own. I can photocopy the installation drawings and fly it out to Hemet if you want to do it yourself. E-mail me off list if you have questions. I am only at my hangar on the weekends to get the info so it may take a little while to get back to you. = Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell Flying in So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Subject: Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation
> I bought this > one because I'd heard it came prewired with a nice harness, antennae, etc so > an idiot like me could install it. What I got was bags of connectors and > assorted unrecognizable electrical pieces, no antennae, no wiring, and no > directions. Did I hear wrong? Not sure. Who did you purchase it from? I bought a new KT-76C from Van's, and it came with the power, ground, & antenna wires already installed on the tray, and also included a new blade type antenna. All I had to do was install the wiring from the encoder. Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV Broken Arrow, Ok MLaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Rigging Elevators
Date: Dec 01, 1998
Is That what is left after you use all that "HOGWASH"????? -----Original Message----- From: Bryan A. Gembusia <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com> Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 9:27 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Rigging Elevators > >Only if you first clean it with a fresh can of "prop wash" > > > BG > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Glenn & Judi [SMTP:glenng(at)megsinet.net] >> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 8:50 AM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rigging Elevators >> >> >> >> Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: >> >> > >> > >> > << << you should use the cord line of the surface. >> >> > > >> > >What kind of cord did you use? >> > > >> > I cordially took cord to my caudal chord :-) >> >> > >> > Leo- >> > >> > You are as always a cunning linguist. >> > >> > -GV >> >> Perhaps next time you should try a spool of "Flight Line" >> >> -Glenn Gordon >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: DAR Inspection
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Listers; In thinking ahead to the final inspection on my RV-8, I have a question, since I have never been through one of these inspections before. How much of the airplane will need to be disassembled for the inspection? Should I leave the interior, floors, baggage panels, inspection panels all out for this? I guess I could have the cowling off, too. What is involved, what is the normal cost, and how long do they usually take? Thanks. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA (still fiberglassing stuff) N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6aJMW(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
AS LONG AS IT IS A GOD CLEAR RADIO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
<< Thanks Gary, I'm going to check on this. You are a wealth of information. >> My old boss called me a cesspool of information. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: RADIO
<< AS LONG AS IT IS A GOD CLEAR RADIO >> Hallelujah, testify my brother! -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 1999
From: "Dennis P. Kane" <dennis(at)asimov.net>
set no mail Respectfully, Dennis Kane STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: RADIO
When I talked to VAL about a repair they told me they didn't add memory functions so they could keep the cost down. Makes sense. hmm. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
> > If the tax man ever asks for the "unpaid" sales tax for my RV-6, my response > will be: > > 1) I bought the kit second hand from an individual, who I'm sure already paid > the sales tax. > > 2) I bought the engine used, therefore no sales tax to pay. re: 1) and 2), the state probably has a legal right to collect tax on the value of any transaction. if ten people in succession buy the same item from each other, the state has the right to collect tax on each sale. really. just because licensed businesses collect tax at time of sale, doesn't mean private sales are any less subject to the tax. > 3) I bought all the expensive bits (radio, etc) at SNF, OSH, etc, and paid > sales tax in those states. fair enough. one taxation per sale. (hope you saved your receipts, they might ask to see them.) > 4) I bought all of the miscellaneous stuff at the local hardware stores, paint > stores, etc. Already paid sales tax on that. again, reasonable. > I hope it is a short discussion. i hope we find out just how different states treat the issue. -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon, figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2 gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint. Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > >re: 1) and 2), the state probably has a legal right to collect tax on >the value of any transaction. if ten people in succession buy the same >item from each other, the state has the right to collect tax on each >sale. really. Sadly true when you think about it - before you can register a vehicle you buy used, you have to pay sales tax. Will have to just make them work for it, obfuscate and delay. The Clinton way! - Mike ****************** NO IBM OPINIONS HERE! *********************** Michael E. Thompson (MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM) T/L 678-0779 (512) 838-0779 IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA EX-AX1 Sub Hunter P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut FLY FAST - FLY LOW - TURN LEFT! ****************** NO IBM OPINIONS HERE! *********************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Sam James Cowl
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Hello, He who has bought the Sam James cowl please come forth and let the world know the merrits. Does it fit the RV6 firewall properly? Did you do a nosegear and how much fitting did that require? Does the new cowl come with good instructions? How much does it weigh and how much do the two factory cowls weigh? Was the oil access door the same deal as the factory cowl? How well is the front end constructed? Do the inlets feel solid? Is your airplane going to go faster than a regular RV6? Would you recomend this option to others? Have you built a previous RV aircraft? Do you know what the factory thinks about this particular cowl? Is there any chance that they will offer it as an option in the future? Thank-you, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC, Canada nhunger(at)sprint.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Panel GPS
Date: Dec 02, 1998
I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100. My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ? Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ? They seem to do the same job..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Von, Yes, you should have everything opened up. Pretend it is an annual inspection. My brother is a DAR and charges $300. The cost varies somewhat. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Von, Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three views too. Stew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
Date: Dec 02, 1998
The screen's on the hand held's are superior to the panel mounts. ----- Original Message ----- From: Buster <6430(at)axion.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:43 AM Subject: RV-List: Panel GPS I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100. My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ? Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ? They seem to do the same job..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Sales Tax
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Colorado, in trying to lure United Airlines to build an overhaul base in Denver, passed legislation exempting aircraft parts from sales taxes. Fortunately it covers ALL aircraft parts, not just stuff for the big iron. The state revenue people, however, sporatically attempt to collect taxes after a plane is registered, even though they should not do so. If the owner of a kit-built plane pays, they take the money. If he/she puts up a fuss, they back off. I kept every receipt just in case, but they never bothered me. (Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough to never ask! ) Go figure!! FWIW RV-6A Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
Perhaps the panel mount is TSO 'd and the handhealds are not. TSO 'd always weans more money. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Bendix-King Transponder installation
As it turns out, Bendix King ended their policy of providing a prewired harness with their radios/transponders this summer. None of the brand new avionics catalogs I have reflect this change and no one is volunteering this information unless asked. I didn't check but I'm willing to bet the warrenty requires an avionics shop to provide the harness. I didn't check because I wouldn't risk doing it myself anyway. Pacific Coast Avionics will wire the transponder for $50 (Cheap insurance) and my GPS/Comm for $150 (not so cheap insurance). They also gave me some advice about encoders. Terra and narco encoders do not come with harnesses, most other brands do. It also seems that when you talk to salesmen on the phone they often offer you lower prices than listed in their catalog. Bottom line is that I should have asked more questions before I sent in my order. Thanks for the offers of help. Dave Beizer RV6A in Moreno Valley Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Von, It's a tough question, and depends on a lot of factors. Whether you paint the airplane together at one time, or in pieces, has an effect. Also, paint technique has a lot to do with it. You should only need 2 wet coats to get the flow you need. Any more than that is extra weight. The mixing ratio of the different brands has something to do with it as well. Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the minimum. It's a real drag to need a couple of ounces of color when your on your last pass. It's kinda like asking 20 people how much proseal they used on their tanks. Probably get 20 different answers. The new Polys are really expensive but are much better paints. But then again, many airplane are painted with enamel/hardeners with fine results. Will your airplane be hangared, or outside? If it's going to pampered, then just about any paint will do. Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to Deltron. When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the cabinet. Just my opinion though. Laird Socal RV-6 finish kit From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 8:23 AM Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon, figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2 gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint. Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > >(Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm >thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough >to never ask! ) Go figure!! Receipts? What receipts? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Still prepping wing spars (scrub, scrub, scrub) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Von, I used PP&G delstar enamel and it has held up very well!!! Shines like poly. I bought 2 gal. of white for the whole ac base color. Used my hvlp to spray it. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
> >Von, > >Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to Deltron. > >When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the cabinet. >Just my opinion though. > >Laird >Socal RV-6 finish kit Laird, Dupont equivalent is Chroma One (for single stage) or Chroma Base/Chroma Clear (2 stage). I just shot PPG Concept One (paint store claims its a step up from Deltron but they couldnt really say why) for the first time this past weekend. Good stuff, easy for a rookie painter, and with the DFX7 catalyst its dry to the touch in a couple of minutes so you dont have to worry about dust, bugs, etc... I agree the acrylic urethanes are the way to go for the amatuer as long as you have the $ and the right protective gear. Mike Wills RV-4 fuse willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
Subject: Wanted: Plane to fly
Listers, I am a new pilot in training and have been fortunate to be able to fly a new Grob (2 place aerobatic) for the last 6 months. It has a stick and very nimble and great training, I think, for my future RV days. Last week the club announced that the owner is yanking the plane to take it down to LA. All the other aircraft around town to train in are pretty shabby and typical spam cans. Does any one know of any planes out there for sale that are reasonable and I could use as a trainer for the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar etc etc. I need a 2 seater so that my instructor can come along. Also I have been spoiled by new and ergonomically correct. Thanks in advance. Any ideas. Dan Wiesel RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working skins on.....awaiting finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Christmas List
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Can anyone recommend any tool that they found especially >useful on the fuselage but wasn't really used on the emp or wing (less likely >that I already have one)? With all the platenut talk on the list lately I >thought I maight ask for a platnut drill jig from Avery. Which size would be >most beneficial during fuselage construction? Any favorite bucking bars? >Of course, drill bits are always on the list. >Scott A. Jordan Scott: I got a 1.25x 5.5 inch steel round bar for backrivetting & it worked real good. I used brown plactic package tape to not scuff the skin. I would use the offset hidden method of tacking to skeleton together. Spent some time checking the alighment of all the bulkhead flange & the bulkheads themselves with strings or straighedges. If they are not right after you nail them the skin will distort a little. Can't have enough C clamps & the "welders clamps" Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: : LYCOMING PARTS
Date: Dec 02, 1998
>might wont to call Bobby's planes 'n parts 817 682 4220 Area code has been changed to '940' for Bobby Osborn Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
Ahhh, why not by a used RV? I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV... If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you something very different from the plane you are building. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ << It has a stick and very nimble and great training, << I think, for my future RV days. << Last week the club announced that the owner is << yanking the plane to take it down to LA. << Does any one know of any planes out there for sale << that are reasonable and I could use as a trainer for << the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
> Listers, > > I am a new pilot in training and have been fortunate to be able to fly a > new Grob (2 place aerobatic) for the last 6 months. It has a stick and very > nimble and great training, I think, for my future RV days. > > Last week the club announced that the owner is yanking the plane to take it > down to LA. > > All the other aircraft around town to train in are pretty shabby and > typical spam cans. > > Does any one know of any planes out there for sale that are reasonable and > I could use as a trainer for the next 2 years. Say something like a pulsar > etc etc. I need a 2 seater so that my instructor can come along. Also I > have been spoiled by new and ergonomically correct. > > Thanks in advance. > > Any ideas. > Dan Wiesel > RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working > skins on.....awaiting finishing kit that depends a bit on who will buy/own the plane. if you plan to buy it yourself (possibly intending to sell it again when your 6 is flying?), you can use anything you like. if you expect your instructor/flight school to purchase the plane, well, they can't rent out an experimental. hmm... i know that the owner of an experimental can ask passengers to contribute to flying costs... any idea what's allowed there? (i.e., can you say fuel is so much, 1/2000 of engine overhaul cost is so much, 1/100 of annual cost is so much, etc., and ask for that per hour?) is it legal to use an experimental in conjuction with a commercial enterprise such as flight instruction if you aren't specifically charging for the use of the plane? -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Laird, You said: "Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the minimum. " What would you charge a customer to paint an RV6? Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: jerry parr <parravion(at)email.cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Help With Email Address
Hi Bri That would be about right - you missing 'ell. Sunning yourself 365 days a year whilst those of us who haven't done anything wrong are suffering the blight of winter. I go to work in the cold and dark (- freezing this merry morn no less, ahh the joys of scraping ice from the windscreen!) and leave work much the same. Some punishment you lot got!! By the way I live at Peterborough which is about 80 miles north of London (that's our capital....). Work is at a small grass airfield looking after the aircraft for a flying club (2xC152, 2xC152Aerobat, 1xC172N and the first Piper Seneca imported into the UK - a couple of years ago now). There is a nice new hangar being built for the club aircraft as I write (well not quite now - they've gone home for the night!). Might even be finshed ready to house the bits of an RV-6 for final assembly next spring!). Keep smiling through the heat haze of life All the best Jerry Brian Holman wrote: > > G'day David, it's bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au You missed out the > "LLLL". I take it you must have manually input the address. I did recieve > your message saying you would reply later, so guess you found this out > yourself. Thanks David, when you can will be fine. Cheers, Brian > > > > Could Brian pleas contact me again! > > > > bhoman(at)fullcomp.com.au L missing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: jerry parr <parravion(at)email.cwcom.net>
Subject: Help Eith Email Address
Sorry guys Hit the wrong button and the personal abuse to a suntanned Ozzie got sent the wrong way. I always wondered how come so many people had done this before - I've read enough apologies on the list in the past - now I know just how easy it is. S'pose I could have blamed the computer but I bolted that together myself, drat!! Back to the baffling kit for sinning.... Jerry Parr RV-6, G-RVVI Peterborough, England (but you all knew that..) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Date: Dec 02, 1998
>Von, > Yes, you should have everything opened up. Pretend it is an >annual inspection. My brother is a DAR and charges $300. >The cost varies somewhat. >Stew RV4 Co. Stew: A post of what he is looking for & what to execpt would be nice for the list. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Date: Dec 02, 1998
>Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's >easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as >tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or >Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly >sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the >Dupont equivalent is to Deltron. > >When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the >cabinet. >Just my opinion though. > >Laird >Socal RV-6 finish kit Do I need to prime under the Deltron? If so, with what? Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: How Much Paint for RV-8?
In a message dated 12/2/98 11:48:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, n41va(at)Juno.com writes: << Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon, figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2 gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint. Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated. Von Alexander >> Von, I painted my -6 with Sherwin-Williams acrylic enamel. I painted overall white with trim colors. I bought two gallons of white and used almost all. I also included a hardner and found it held up very well. In 1992 the white sold for $61.80 per gallon. The hardner went for $32.95 per pint. Rick McBride RV8 80027 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: MN Wing December Meeting this Sat
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Fellow Listers: Just a note to the MN RV Listers that the MN Wing will have their December meeting this Saturday, Dec 5 at 10:00 am. Location is the American Wings Aviation Museum at the Anoka County Airport, Anoka, MN. Topics will be planning for the Twin Cities RV Forum and then a panel discussion on flight testing and flight characteristics of RVs. Afterwards a tour of the museum., Coffee, donuts, juice as usual. Questions, directions.. call me 715-386-1239 Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbirdman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Von, You should ask the DAR that you intend to use what state he wants the aircraft in for inspection. I used a DAR and asked exactly the same question, his reply "It can be in Maine". I then asked him not what state geographicaly, but what condition, and he wanted it ready to fly. That response made it clear to me that this would be a exercise in paperwork shuffle only, and that proved to be the case. The last paperwork was a check passed from my hand to his. Gary Bray Carmel, Maine RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 02, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Stew; What do you mean by 'three views'? Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com > >Von, > Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you >built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three >views too. >Stew > > > > > List Support Contributions: >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
The receipts that you will need to prove ownership to get an N number for it...no receipts, no N number, no N number, no fly. Mike Thompson wrote: > > In a previous message, it was written: > > > >(Also I suspected my wife would ask, "How much did you spend on the damm > >thing?" and I was going to tell her to the penny, but she was nice enough > >to never ask! ) Go figure!! > > Receipts? > What receipts? > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 Still prepping wing spars (scrub, scrub, scrub) > -- Scott 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 Gotta Fly or Gonna Die ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport)
Subject: RV-6 for sale
Posting this ad for a friend. The airplane is hangared at Carp, Ontario, Canada. ================= Begin forwarded message ================ Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 RV-6, 180 HP, 410 TTA&E SMOH, Gyros, Night Flying Equipped, Terra NavCom with ECDI, Terra Solid State Transponder with Mode C encoder, Loran C, GPS, Vision MicroSystems Engine Instrumentation, Intercom, Harold Rehm Prop. This outstanding, versatile aircraft is yours for only $52,000. Contact Luc at (613) 727-0285, email "LdeSadeleer(at)KPMG.ca", view jpeg image @ http://www3.sympatico.ca/bdeschneider/luke_rv.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Manual Elevator trim
RE: RV-6 Manual Elevator trim REF DWG# 5PP Hi, I have the tail on my airplane, and I routed the trim cable so that I could connect it up to set the throws. While in the process of determining where to mount the WD415 to the E616PP Cover Plate, I have determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob centered. All of the adjustmens, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at their limit. Even though this is on a quickbuild kit, I have checked many of the dimensions and can't seem to figure out what I am overlooking. Thank, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
In a message dated 12/2/98 7:39:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil writes: << just because licensed businesses collect tax at time of sale, doesn't mean private sales are any less subject to the tax. >> Neither does it mean that they are!! By the way, D, are the initials of your employer by any chance I.R.S?(only kidding) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Sales Tax
In a message dated 12/2/98 10:38:57 AM Pacific Standard Time, fasching(at)amigo.net writes: << The state revenue people, however, sporatically attempt to collect taxes after a plane is registered, even though they should not do so. >> Gee, I wonder if they are "pocketing" this money or what. Sounds like they should be working for a nation to the south that starts with an M ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternator Pulley Size
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 02, 1998
I had a fellow RVer visit my project today, and he recommended that I change the pulley on my alternator from the 2 1/2" size that is on my engine (Aero Sport 0-360, Nippo alternator) to a 4". He said that with the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like 6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator. Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes with the alternator and made for automotive use. Comments? Should I change this? Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
Date: Dec 02, 1998
> > I would like to buy a GPS or DGPS and prefer the Lowrance 100. > My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference > between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ? > Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ? > They seem to do the same job..... I haven't got a hand held, but after trying to read a map in my RV4 in bumpy weather, I can just imagine trying to use a handheld and flying the plane at the same time. I might be wrong but common sense tells me I'm not. Anyway, thats why I won't invest in a handheld even though its a lot cheaper in price. Jim Nolan N444JN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RADIO
> Don't overlook Walter Dittel or Becker radios from Germany. > Not the least expensive but SMALL, good, and contain an intercom. > > Frank Zeck, Lisbon ND, RV4 N2ZK flying with Dittel radio. > Do you have info on price,specs and most important, manufacturers service organisation. D.Reed RV6A fus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: RED DOT ON TIRES
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Listers, I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always placed the valve stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires on my airplane. Am I doing it right. Jim Nolan N444JN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat
> >> The FAR 23.1093 requirement is for a temperature rise of 90 deg F at >> 75% power for engines with conventional venturi carburetors. Engines >> with fuel injection must have a sheltered alternate source of air >> with a temperature rise of 60 deg F at 75% power. > >Great post Kevin. Does anyone know if the requirements for fuel injected >engines as paraphrased above are: 1) to allow for inlet/inlet filter icing, >and 2) is a 60 deg. F rise typical of air that passes through the cylinder >cooling fins at 75%? I have heard that port fuel injection does not need a >heat muff for alternate air, but this makes me think twice. > >I have an Airflow FI system. > >We need to respect the FAR's, even if we are not required to meet them. > >Alex P. I had promised to look into things and get back to the list, but I ended up on the road and sort of forgot to respond. Anyway, enough excuses. I looked into the history of the FAR 23 requirements for induction air heating on fuel injected engines. FAR 23.1091 requires two separate air intake sources for all reciprocating engines. This is intended to cover such things as air filter icing, blocked air filters, etc. FAR 23.1093 originally did not specify a temperature rise requirement for induction air heating for engines with fuel injection systems that tended to prevent icing (e.g. multi-port F.I.). These engines were required to have an alternate source of induction air that was heated to a level equivalent to that of engine cooling air that had passed by the engine (paraphrased). No specific amount of temperature rise was specified. The service history was good. But, there was concern that some new aircraft might have a different engine cooling arrangement that resulted in the lower cowling air being much cooler than the norm, and that this engine might have a icing problem. So, to cover this hypothetical case, FAR 23.1093 was reworked at Amendment 43 to specify a 60 deg F temperature rise. This was considered to be similar to what the current designs were achieving (this info is from the premable to Amendment 43). So, unless there is some reason why RV cowlings and engine cooling are different from type certified designs, I would simply use lower cowling air for alternate air for engines with multi-port fuel injection. I would also rig up a temporary thermocouple system to check the temperature rise during my flight test program. Jim Nice asked how this applied to throttle body injection. FAR 23.1093 says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of providing a heat rise of 75 deg.F when the engine is operating at 75 percent of its maximum continuous power" I have never looked at a throttle body injection system, but this description might fit. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Date: Dec 02, 1998
---------- > From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? > Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:20 AM > > > Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need > of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? Von. It took almost 2 gallons of Imron to paint my 6. Unfortunately I initially only purchased one gallon then had to pick up another gallon the next day. Who said they could match any color?? Don't believe it!! My cowl is a little different white than my fuselage. You may not notice it but I know it's different and it bugs hell out of me when I think that I could have avoided this by getting enough in the first place. Not a bad idea to have a pint or so left over for any touch up in the future. After 5 years I just repainted my gear intersection fairing and the paint was still fine. I am pleased with the imron and would use it again although I didn't do the initial painting. I made a deal with a local auto body shop owner who did the priming and initial color. I did all the trim and lettering although I would probably use vinyl trim next time. I rented a flatbed trailer to take the fuselage down and took the wings, empenage, cowl and other pieces down in my pickup. Cost of 2 Gal Imron and Dupont Corlar primer $950.00 Shop supplies 40.00 Painting labor 250.00 Bear in mind that these are 1992 prices and this is in Canadian dollars ( about $1050 US in 1992) This was the first airplane he had painted and we had a couple of small runs (we sanded out) but the price was right and I was happy with the job. ( I still owe him a ride though). This worked for me and the price was right. I did all the prep work, the skins were ready for paint and all masking was done where necessary ie: firewall, canopy, cockpit etc.. I took it in, he painted it on a saturday and I took it out on a sunday. I did know him previously and I did trust him. This might be an alternative for those of you who don't want to spend the big bucks on a showplane paintjob. Regards Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93 Salmon Arm B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Manifold pressure gauge
Date: Dec 02, 1998
A couple of weeks ago I submitted a post regarding a sticking manifold pressure gauge. I flew today and it is working fine. I removed it a couple of weeks ago and took it home into a warm kitchen. I let it sit for about 12 hours in the flat position. Inlet hole down on a paper towel. Amazing how much blue residue (fuel) came on to the towel. I then put it in the oven and set it for minimum (150 degreesF) turned the oven off when it reached 150 and let it cool and then did it again. I got out about as much again as I had previously. It appears to be working okay today. I did install a small ( about the size of a roll of dimes) auto gas filter in the line between my #3 cylinder and the gauge. Hope this helps. Some sort of filter to keep gas dye from getting to the gauge is desirable. FWIW Ken Hoshowski C-FKEH RV6 First flight sept 8/93 Salmon Arm B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Date: Dec 02, 1998
The Dupont equivalent is Chroma One. I did my Comanche about five years ago and it still holds a really nice shine. It's a little softer than Imron and IMHO doesn't chip so easily. I plan to use it on my "8" when the time comes. Remember that whatever you use, use the whole system. Don't mix manufacturers or systems within manufacturer lines and you should get good results. Bob RV8 #423 working on wings. -----Original Message----- From: Owens [mailto:owens(at)Aerovironment.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 1:21 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? Von, It's a tough question, and depends on a lot of factors. Whether you paint the airplane together at one time, or in pieces, has an effect. Also, paint technique has a lot to do with it. You should only need 2 wet coats to get the flow you need. Any more than that is extra weight. The mixing ratio of the different brands has something to do with it as well. Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the minimum. It's a real drag to need a couple of ounces of color when your on your last pass. It's kinda like asking 20 people how much proseal they used on their tanks. Probably get 20 different answers. The new Polys are really expensive but are much better paints. But then again, many airplane are painted with enamel/hardeners with fine results. Will your airplane be hangared, or outside? If it's going to pampered, then just about any paint will do. Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the Dupont equivalent is to Deltron. When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the cabinet. Just my opinion though. Laird Socal RV-6 finish kit From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 8:23 AM Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? Could someone give me a rough idea of how many quarts a person would need of acrylic enamel paint to cover an RV-8 in white? I will be using an epoxy primer in white first. For the topcoat, I was thinking around two to three quarts, but am not sure. Maybe I should just buy a gallon, figuring I would use it eventually for touch-up, etc. I realize that most acrylic enamel such as Centauri will be reduced, yielding about 1 1/2 gal. sprayable for 1 gal paint. Also, I notice that polyurethanes, such as Delthane, cost nearly double that of acrylic enamels. I would like to use the acrylic enamels with a hardener; has anyone found these to be durable enough? Or should I go with the poly? So many choices! Tips and experiences appreciated. Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Listers, Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes! There is no shame in having a few items that need attention caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more detailed inspection than ready to fly! Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
thats 3 views of the aircraft, ie. the ones furnished by Vans...top view, side view, front view ect. these are for his records and the FAA. Stew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Date: Dec 02, 1998
three drawings - front, side, and top views -----Original Message----- From: VON L ALEXANDER <n41va(at)Juno.com> Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:19 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection > >Stew; >What do you mean by 'three views'? > >Von Alexander >RV-8 N41VA >N41VA(at)juno.com >> >>Von, >> Forgot to say you need to be prepared to prove you >>built the airplane! They may ask! They will want three >>views too. >>Stew >> >> >> >> >> List Support Contributions: >>http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge
> >A couple of weeks ago I submitted a post regarding a sticking manifold >pressure gauge. >I flew today and it is working fine. I removed it a couple of weeks ago >and took it home into a warm kitchen. I let it sit for about 12 hours in >the flat position. Inlet hole down on a paper towel. Amazing how much >blue residue (fuel) came on to the towel. I then put it in the oven and >set it for minimum (150 degreesF) turned the oven off when it reached 150 >and let it cool and then did it again. I got out about as much again as I >had previously. It appears to be working okay today. I did install a small >( about the size of a roll of dimes) auto gas filter in the line between my >#3 cylinder and the gauge. Hope this helps. Some sort of filter to keep >gas dye from getting to the gauge is desirable. >FWIW > >Ken Hoshowski C-FKEH RV6 First flight sept 8/93 >Salmon Arm B.C. Ken, I think there must be an underlying fault. Manifold pressure should be atmospheric or less so that there shouldn't be any tendency to blow fuel/air mix along the line. The gauge should also be sealed so that nothing should move along the line even if the manifold pressure went transiently positive (Back fire perhaps). Perhaps someone with more experience than mine will recognize the symptom. I'm sure a filter on the manifold pressure line is not a usual requirement. Leo Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan A. Gembusia" <Bryan(at)GGGConcepts.com>
Subject: RED DOT ON TIRES
Date: Dec 02, 1998
My understanding is that is how it used to be done when balancing was done on abuble level. The dot was the best place to put the stem according to the tire manufactuer. However, Today, computer balancers can tell you what weight to add weather or not u put the stem near the dot. It just used to make the bubble level job easier. BG > -----Original Message----- > From: JimNolan [SMTP:JimNolan(at)kconline.com] > Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:32 PM > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: RED DOT ON TIRES > > > Listers, > I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always placed > the valve > stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires on > my > airplane. Am I doing it right. > Jim Nolan > N444JN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 12/01/98
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
>From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig > > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing >jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > >Chris Santschi. >Festus, MO. I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling was about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes. I turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the bottom and the top. (Use metal gussets). So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the top of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you criss-cross guy wires in the back of the jig. Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around. It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and doesn't get in the way (mostly). Bill Watson RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires) Mountain View CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Mumert" <dmumert(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Digital Gauges
Date: Dec 02, 1998
Hi all Anyone interested in digital gauges should check out this page http://www.dakotadigital.com/products/home.htm Dave Mumert ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Pulley Size
VON L ALEXANDER wrote: > > > I had a fellow RVer visit my project today, and he recommended that I > change the pulley on my alternator from the 2 1/2" size that is on my > engine (Aero Sport 0-360, Nippo alternator) to a 4". He said that with > the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like > 6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator. > Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes > with the alternator and made for automotive use. > Comments? Should I change this? > > Von Alexander > RV-8 N41VA > N41VA(at)juno.com > Von Just leave it, that is a myth that keeps coming back. That alternator will handle all the rpm you can give it with your Lycoming. If you have some doubts send a email to Bob Nuckolls. There is a good thread on alternators in the archives, I found it by clicking on the archive link listed in Matts auto information trailer listed with each message and then putting the words "alternator|nuckolls" without quotes in the search and found it at message #358. Jerry Springer 1000hrs on my $45.00 Nippon stock junkyard alternator. Hillsboro, OR | RV-6 flying since 1989 | jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Engine, Infinity, RMI Photos
I finally got around to updating my webpage with Engine photos, Finish kit photos, Infinity Grip Photos, and Microencoder photos... Enjoy! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: RED DOT ON TIRES
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> I've probly got a stupid question but here goes. I've always >placed the valve >stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires >on my >airplane. Am I doing it right. > Jim Nolan > You have it exactly right. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator trim
Date: Dec 03, 1998
>Hi, >I have the tail on my airplane, and I routed the trim cable so that I >could connect it up to set the throws. While in the process of >determining where to mount the WD415 to the E616PP Cover Plate, I have >determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob >centered. All of the adjustmens, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at >their limit. Even though this is on a quickbuild kit, I have checked >many of the dimensions and can't seem to figure out what I am >overlooking. > > I don't believe that the construction manual says that the trim knob should be at the middle of it's travel range when trim tab is neutral (at least it shouldn't say that). RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) Starting with the knob about 1 " out from it's full in position for the neutral trim position seems to work out about right. Then you can make small adjustments from there to get the proper amount of displacement up and down. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for >your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical >items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft >is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes! >There is no shame in having a few items that need attention >caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more >detailed inspection than ready to fly! >Stew RV4 Co. > > This may be true, but I wouldn't entirely rely on a DAR or an FAA inspector to keep me safe. The responsibility for an experimental amateur built aircraft being airworthy is put upon the builder (this is part of the reason we are give a restricted flight test period) It's a sad fact, but with tokays sue happy society many DAR's are reluctant to raise there liability exposure any higher than they have to ( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he is protected by just being a government employee). Many inspectors will tell you this at the time they do their inspection and issue you your airworthiness cert. I would more encourage builders with newly finished RV's to use the services of an EAA technical councilor (if they haven't been already) and then invite as many experienced (meaning completed and flown an RV) RV builders that you can find, that would be willing to come and spend 1 to 2 hrs with your airplane. Give them a flashlight, mirror, and a clipboard with paper and a pen, and leave them alone. Ask them to right dow any problem or make any comment they like such as a better way to do something. You can then discuss them later and then "you" can decide which items need to be corrected. You can use the experience of multiple builders and see if they flag the same items. If they don't, then you can ask them about the items one of your other inspectors made note of, but they didn't. Then in the end you can evaluate all of the input and make your own decisions. No builder should have a problem with using this procedure. Regardless of their background or experience level. Remember, in the end it is you the builder that is responsible for the airworthiness of the airplane, and since none of us are perfect we can all use all the help we can get. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Listers, I used Dupont's Chroma One on N925RV. After five years + of flying it still shines. It has held up very well even after repeated exposure to heavy rain at cruise speeds. There are a few spots that have chipped due to belt buckle encounters, and a few more chipped spots due to poor prep prior to painting, but otherwise, it still look like new...... Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct > -----Original Message----- > From: DiMeo, Robert [SMTP:Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com] > Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:06 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? > > > > > The Dupont equivalent is Chroma One. I did my Comanche about five > years > ago and it still holds a really nice shine. It's a little softer than > Imron > and IMHO doesn't chip so easily. > I plan to use it on my "8" when the time comes. > Remember that whatever you use, use the whole system. Don't mix > manufacturers or systems within manufacturer lines and you should get > good > results. > > Bob > RV8 #423 working on wings. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Gauges
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Dave Mumert points out a web site showing some interesting digital gauges at www.dakotadigital.com/products/home.htm Can someone advise how their tach gauge would be hooked to a Lycoming with magnetos? here is a quote from their manual which is posted on the site. Unfortunately this goes right over my head. Thanks. "Connecting to tach signal: For point or pointless distributors, connect the gray wire for the tach signal to the negative side of the coil. For GM HEI ignition systems, connect the gray wire to the tach output on the distributor. On MSD ignition systems connect to the tach output terminal, if a terminal is not provided, follow the instructions included with the MSD system. With other aftermarket ignition systems, follow the instructions provided with the ignition for a voltage, pulse sensing tachometer. For newer vehicles which already provide a tachometer signal, consult the service manual to determine wire color and location." Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Yohannes Kayir <yohannkayir(at)pcola.gulf.net>
Subject: Denver trip
Fellow Denver area Listers, on December 18 I will be starting a family trip to Colorado for 2 weeks. During the first week we will be in the Southwest (Telluride/Ouray) area. We will spend the second week (December 25-31) staying with my inlaws in Denver. I would very much like to visit with fellow RV'ers. Naturally reciprocation here in Pensacola goes without saying. In fact you may want to plan your next Sun and Fun trip such that you can stop and stay with us on your way down or up. Yohannes Kayir Pensacola, FL RV-4, Canopy/skirts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Good advise EXCEPT for ">( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he is protected by just being a government employee)." Government employees are not protected. One of the basic reasons for all our weird FAR, AC and AD regulations. They have to CTA. -----Original Message----- From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 12:52 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection > > >> Having a aircraft in the ready too fly condition for >>your final inspection does you no favors. How can critical >>items be seen??? The whole idea is too verify the aircraft >>is airworthy is it not?? The second set of trained eyes! >>There is no shame in having a few items that need attention >>caught by the inspector. Personally I would insist on a more >>detailed inspection than ready to fly! >>Stew RV4 Co. >> >> >This may be true, but I wouldn't entirely rely on a DAR or an FAA >inspector to keep me safe. The responsibility for an experimental >amateur built aircraft being airworthy is put upon the builder (this is >part of the reason we are give a restricted flight test period) >It's a sad fact, but with tokays sue happy society many DAR's are >reluctant to raise there liability exposure any higher than they have to >( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he is protected by just >being a government employee). > >Many inspectors will tell you this at the time they do their inspection >and issue you your airworthiness cert. > >I would more encourage builders with newly finished RV's to use the >services of an EAA technical councilor (if they haven't been already) and >then invite as many experienced (meaning completed and flown an RV) RV >builders that you can find, that would be willing to come and spend 1 to >2 hrs with your airplane. Give them a flashlight, mirror, and a >clipboard with paper and a pen, and leave them alone. Ask them to right >dow any problem or make any comment they like such as a better way to do >something. You can then discuss them later and then "you" can decide >which items need to be corrected. You can use the experience of multiple >builders and see if they flag the same items. >If they don't, then you can ask them about the items one of your other >inspectors made note of, but they didn't. Then in the end you can >evaluate all of the input and make your own decisions. > >No builder should have a problem with using this procedure. Regardless >of their background or experience level. >Remember, in the end it is you the builder that is responsible for the >airworthiness of the airplane, and since none of us are perfect we can >all use all the help we can get. > > >Scott McDaniels >These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily >reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Elevator trim
<< RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >> Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to shim the LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having the trim tab in trail during cruise. Right now the wing is at 1 deg positive incidence and the horizontal stab is at 1/2 degree positive incidence. The engine thrust line is at zero degrees and all the weight and balance figures are smack in the middle of the permissible range. In this condition I still need the trim tab up about 3/8" at the TE in order not to climb in cruise. I will try some down pitch in the engine thrust line at some future time. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how to fly. Does the original poster have a pilot's license? thanks, - Ian > >Ahhh, why not by a used RV? > >I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV... > >If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an >RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you something >very different from the plane you are building. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig - they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are laminated products $pecial order? -Larry RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute http://larry.bowen.com > >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> > >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig > > > > > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing wing > >jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > > > >Chris Santschi. > >Festus, MO. > > I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling was > about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes. I > turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the bottom > and the top. (Use metal gussets). > > So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the top > of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you criss-cross > guy wires in the back of the jig. > > Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around. > > It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and doesn't > get in the way (mostly). > > Bill Watson > RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires) > Mountain View CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> >I haven't got a hand held, but after trying to read a map in my RV4 in bumpy >weather, I can just imagine trying to use a handheld and flying the plane >at the same time. >Jim Nolan >N444JN Jim's right, it's tough to read a hand held and fly if you hold it in your hand. I have a Lawrance hand held with a yoke mount in my Cessna and that mount gives it the benefit of a panel mount except for the wires strung around to the antenna and power. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > >It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for >training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how >to fly. Better get out your checkbook for that emp kit! Something that handles like an RV may not be the optimum aircraft for initial flight training, but many have done just that in aircraft they have built. Experimentals cannot be used commercially (like, rented) but nothing prohibits their use in training, even if you pay the CFI. You just have to find the right CFI! Happy building! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Plane to fly > > > It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for > training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how > to fly. that is not correct. it cannot be used commercially. if you own the plane, then that is private use, not commercial use, to have the instructor instruct you in your own plane. i think it would be a shame to build a plane and then not be able to fly it yourself, so i'd recommend you get your license before you expect the project to finish... but it'd be a much greater shame to build a plane and then find out you can't get a license to fly it at all (for medical reason or whatever). the easiest route is probably to buy any functional dual-control plane that will hold its value, to learn in, then sell it once your homebuilt is complete. -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Elevator trim
>>RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight >>operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the >>deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >> > >Not in my experience, Scott. Mine either. In Suzie Q (a -4) the trim lever IS in the middle of the travel range at solo cruise and the trim tab is neutral The elevator balance rides about 1/8" above the leading edge of the horizontal at cruise speed. When loaded with PIB and baggage, the trim is, of course, nose down to compensate but the balance still doesn't ride that much higher. I took great pains to make sure my horizontal was alligned per plans (measure, measure, measure ad nauseam) and still fretted it wasn't close enough. Flight testing showed it was pretty close. Flying, I have found I haven't used more than maybe 35% of the trim tab travel available. I have never found the need for much nose-down trim and only use much nose-up in slow flight and landing configuration. Even then, it isn't much travel; never have been to either limit. SO: maybe all the travel available is not needed. PROBLEM is, you won't know until you fly which direction of travel you won't use much of. There was a thread once where a -4 ran OUT of nose down trim with any weight in the back. Something wasn't right; wings or horizontal not positioned right. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Year Two, this love affair ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Paul Peterson <pwpeterson(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Searching for a PSRU
Hello all, I'm using a Mazda 13B in my RV8 and am looking for a Ross Aero PSRU. I'm hoping that someone has one, or knows some one with one for sale. Can any one help? Paul please reply off list to: pwpeterson(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "spud12" <spud12(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Austin Area RV's
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Hello all - I've been lurking out here for a while, and am very close to placing my order. My initial inclination was towards the 4, but after a visit to this year's reunion along with my wife, it appears that the 6 will be the politically correct option. Which is fine. My reason for this post - I'll be in the Austin, Tx. area over Christmas, visiting with my retired Air Force fighter type father, and my current Marine FA-18 type brother. They've been listening to me yap about RV's for some time now, and I'd like to show them what all my excitement is about. Anyone in the Austin area with a flying RV that would be willing to let us crawl around his or her baby for a bit? The folks live in Georgetown. TIA ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: private pilot license question
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+ horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? Reply off list if you wish and thanks for the information. Cheers, Paul Lein RV6A, IO-360 flying next summer..really..I think ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> >Where does one get high-end wood products? Larry I made mine from 2" X 3" rectangle steel tube and bolted on a 4" strip of 1/2 " particle board on the side so I could draw lines, drill holes, set alignment brackets, etc. When the particle board gets too battered, put on a new piece. To attach the horz bar to the uprights I just welded 2" of a 4" piece of 2" x 0.25" onto the sides of the ends of horz bar and then put a bolt through the unwelded ends and the uprights. The steel tube doesn't warp and maintains the vertical and horizonal settings for alignment. I haven't checked but I would guess that the steel is less expensive than wood of a quality necessary to build jigs. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Pulley Size
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> the small pulley, the rpm's of the alternator would be something like > 6,000 rpm's, and would create unecessary heat and wear in the alternator. > Apparently Aero Sport is just supplyiing the small pulley that comes > with the alternator and made for automotive use. > Comments? Should I change this? Believe Electric Bob answered this a while back. Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM. It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer while in automotive use. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Elevator trim/ wing incidence
<< Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to shim the LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having the trim tab in trail during cruise. Right now the wing is at 1 deg positive incidence and the horizontal stab is at 1/2 degree positive incidence. The engine thrust line is at zero degrees and all the weight and balance figures are smack in the middle of the permissible range. In this condition I still need the trim tab up about 3/8" at the TE in order not to climb in cruise. I will try some down pitch in the engine thrust line at some future time. >> You will reduce available thrust if you do that- fwd thrust will be a vector of engine thrust. Reset your stab again for optimal results. As I recall, you have an above std HP engine? The higher cruise speed from this configuration will certainly result in a smaller degree of incidence necessary at the main wing. You can see this in your case due to the nose- down trim necessary in cruise flight. The Rockets seem to like 3/4 deg at the wing, with 1/2 deg at the h stab for good cruise at 10,000 msl. It sounds like this would work for you, but changing the wing incidence at this point would be......difficult. Cruising at a higher altitude (lower IAS and power) would be another option... An interesting experiment would be for you to climb to an altitude where full power (or more likely, a comfortable fuel flow) would allow you to have neutral trim- how high would that be? Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a commercial purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give instruction. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
Larry, I think your best served by avoiding solid lumber all together. Even kiln dried, pressure treated lumber will move (warp, curl). That is a natural property of wood and cannot be avoided unless you have a perfectly temperature and humidity controlled workspace. (Something like the new space station might work. :)) Although I did make the uprights on my jig out of pressure treated 2X4s I made the horizontal piece for my jib by constructing a box beam out of 5/8 AC plywood. Plywood is dimensionally stable and will remain relatively straight. I constructed mine using an 8' sheet of plywood. Out of that I cut three 4' wide pieces, one for the top and each side. I left the bottom of my beam open, but you could close it if you like which will give a better clamping surface. I then glued and screwed the pieces together forming a beam with the better side of the plywood facing outward. In order to make it long enough, I spliced an extra foot or so onto each piece, which goes on the inside of the beam. No need to get fancy with it. Your beam will look like an upside down U when you are done. Make sure you countersink the screws so they don't scratch anything, and sand the top. You can attack the beam to the uprights using any of a number of methods. I attached a wooden cleat to the uprights and screwed the beam to them. This has stayed perfectly straight and level despite being in an unheated garage in rainy Oregon. I currently have my horizontal stab sitting on mine and didn't have to shim any of the brackets when I screwed them on. I would use the same material to a free standing jig. With plywood you can made the ends any shape you need to to provide strength and it's cheap. Regards, Doug Hormann Larry Bowen wrote: > > > Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried > 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig - > they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are > laminated products $pecial order? > > -Larry > RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute > http://larry.bowen.com > > > >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> > > >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig > > > > > > > > > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing > wing > > >jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > > > > > >Chris Santschi. > > >Festus, MO. > > > > I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling > was > > about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes. > I > > turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the > bottom > > and the top. (Use metal gussets). > > > > So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the > top > > of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you > criss-cross > > guy wires in the back of the jig. > > > > Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around. > > > > It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and > doesn't > > get in the way (mostly). > > > > Bill Watson > > RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires) > > Mountain View CA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, 37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes: > What additional endorsements to your license > did you need to add? One for 200+ > horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? None! If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following: retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp) and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
Date: Dec 03, 1998
I purchased the Apollo GX 65 for my panel The difference is a gas display readable in sunlight for one. Then I also have intercom and 740 channel radio all in a 2 x 6 inch space. It is certified for enroute and terminal also. Got it thru Vans for 2740.00 as I remember, this past summer. Cecil Hatfield Thousand Oaks, CA O > My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference >between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ? >Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ? >They seem to do the same job..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
Date: Dec 03, 1998
This has changed in recent years ('97?) 1998 FARs state: FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes [...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs. FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower) -- doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below. There is also a grandfather clause for those with complex or hi-perf experience before August 4, 1997. -- Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com > >In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, >37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes: > >> What additional endorsements to your license >> did you need to add? One for 200+ >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? > > >None! > >If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following: >retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will >need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp) >and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft. > >Gary Corde >RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
> > Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried > 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig - > they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. I'm not really a wood expert but as a former Simpson Timber Company engineer I'm no layman either. If we get real serious a close friend is a forestry grad and very expert so I could ask him. Use real old dry lumber or cut strips of plywood to make boards and laminate them. Kiln dried lumber is essentially clamped in position when dried. It is then planed to finish dimension but can move around when humidity changes. If you get old wood with nice straight grain and keep humidity constant you should be okay. Plywood (better grades like AC exterior) is very stable, even wet. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Engine Fuel Pump
I sent this earlier, but did not see appear, so I will try again. Can anyone out there tell me something about the engine fuel pump. Such as, if the mecanical engine pump fails will always bypass so as to use the electric pump to feed? Sometime ago some listners suggested to "tee" the electric fuel pump line in just before the carb and thereby bypassing a potential problem by giving the fuel an alternate route around the mechnical engine pump. I made a plan for that, however that would leave the electric fuel pump line unfiltered. I go to a filters for both line. Is this over done idea? It is another great building day today! Denny, RV-6, Nearer done than not! Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Alternator Pulley Size
In a message dated 12/3/98 12:37:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net writes: << Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM. It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer while in automotive use. >> It does matter from the standpoint of HP consumed. It will absorb a little less HP running slower. Regards, Merle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Starter Ring gear change
Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 tooth to improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, RV-3A with slow cranking 0-320.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld
Concerning the handheld GPS--have you considered building them into your instrument panel or console or armrest. Maybe have a swing away door so the unit can be accessed for use in another vehicle. I have seen several done this way and it looks neat and works great. The Garmin 90 and the new GPS 3 in particular lend themselves to this set up. The GPS 3 can be fitted into the panel such that it looks like a tiny panel mount. The hand-helds are the way to go--just my opinion--I do not hold mine--I surface mounted my Garmin 90 to my panel --also a viable method of securing them to the panel. That way I can pop it out for a hike in a flash or to navigate around Oshkosh for the directionally challenged. The handhelds are cheaper and useable in multiple missions. They have excellent capabilities and great displays and neat features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most of us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me) and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand held CD player plugged into his fancy AMP sounded no different than the CD player that was the obligatory 17 and 3/4 inches wide by 14 inches deep and of course BLACK with lots of flashing lights. Standing by for the torpedoes--damm the torpedoes -- full speed ahead. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Alternator Pulley Size
At Lycoming's 2700 rpm??? My little Mazda RX7 has a small pulley and the engine is nearly always running faster than 2700 and red lines at 7000. There are lots of dishonest folks ready to sell us things we don't need. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
I am the original poster. I do not have a license yet, and my understanding is that you can learn to fly in an experimental as long as you are "providing" the aircraft. However an experimental cannot be hired for training. The one exception is the Seager plane up in Oregon that falls under some special provision having to do with safety and training in a plane similar to one that a builder is building. Its all in the archives. What I am looking for is a mild mannered training plane to build up my confidence and experience so that when it comes time for that RV grin, it wont be wiped out by sheer terror of flying such a great performance vehicle. I just want to be prudent about the whole experience, and work on confidence level in flying. I'm not sixteen anymore and I know that knowledge comes with experience and that you have to walk before you fly.At > >It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for >training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how >to fly. > >Does the original poster have a pilot's license? > >thanks, >- Ian > > >> >>Ahhh, why not by a used RV? >> >>I mean if you want something that will teach you how to fly an RV... >> >>If this seems like it's defeating the purpose of building an RV, purchase an >>RV-4 which will provide you with the RV experience while giving you something >>very different from the plane you are building. >> > > > Dan Wiesel RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working skins on.....awaiting finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
I used #1 Kiln Dried Ceder for mine, and they stayed perfectly straight, and a year later they are still straight. The jig is now being used to build the tail for another 8. I used all 2X4's, and screwed & glued them together to make 4X4's. I also used them in a humid workshop that was airconditioned while I worked at night, but was in the 80's all day, so there were wide temp swings. I paid $20 per 10ft 2X4 from a local wood distributor. I searched far and wide to find these things, and when I did find them I made sure I would be allowed to hand pick the boards. Home Depot said they could order me a synthetic 2X4 that was made of some type of plastic and would not change shape at all, but I never followed up. Good luck, hope this helps. -- Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://tabshred.com/moe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Doug Hormann <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
Gary, You might want to review the 1998 FARs. The old complex aircraft endorsement has been split into two different endorsements for complex and high performance. If your airplane has a 200 hp engine, you now need to have a high performance endorsement regardless of any other attributes. Retractible gear, CS, flaps require a complex endorsement. Doug Hormann RV6junkie(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 12/3/98 12:09:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, > 37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes: > > > What additional endorsements to your license > > did you need to add? One for 200+ > > horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? > > None! > > If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following: > retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will > need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp) > and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft. > > Gary Corde > RV-6 N211GC - NJ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
I have a Garmin GPS III, and always had a hell of a time reading it when it was velcroed to the dash on the airplane. Recently, I found a Samsonite Cell phone mount in Walmart for $20. It has a suction cup that attaches firmly with a lever action, and a clamp assembly mounted on an adjustable stalk. It hold the GPS in any position I want, at any angle, and can attach to the windshield wherever I place it. This allows me to mount it much closer to my face, and made all the difference. This past weekend I gave it a stress test by doing a loop and it held fine. It stayed attached to the plane all day, even during a 1 hr flight directly into a red hot sun where the suction cup got pretty hot. Like I said, it's made by "Samsonite" and Walmart carries them in the automotive dept. It totally changed my opinion on the GPS III. A week ago I would have told you it was too hard to read the small screen. -- Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://tabshred.com/moe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat
> >Jim Nice asked how this applied to throttle body injection. FAR 23.1093 >says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components >on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of providing a >heat rise of 75 deg.F when the engine is operating at 75 percent of its >maximum continuous power" I have never looked at a throttle body injection >system, but this description might fit. ________________________________________________________________________________ from carburation but from a functional point of view, they sure look just about the same to me. If I had a throttle-body injection system I would want a regular carb heat system so the above FAR makes a whole bunch of sense. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
> > What additional endorsements to your license > > did you need to add? One for 200+ > > horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? > > > None! > > If you fly a Complex Aircraft (defined as one having any two of the following: > retractable gear; controllable pitch prop; 200 or more horsepower) you will > need a Complex Endorsement in your log book. An RV with an IO-360 (200 hp) > and a CSP does meet the definition of a Complex Aircraft. as a current student pilot, i can tell you that the definition of a high-performance aircraft is either the combination of flaps, retractable gear, and controllable propeller (all 3 are necessary); OR 200 hp. so anyone building an RV-8 with a 200 hp engine, or a harmon rocket, should have a high-performance signoff in their logbook. no other RV should require a high-performance signoff (unless you're like that canadian guy and build a retractable-gear RV, but i'm guessing most won't be doing that). in fact, looking at my logbook right now, i can find where i'll (eventually) get the signoff for "high performance" airplanes, but i don't see any mention of "complex" airplanes. it isn't listed among the endorsements in my standard pilot log book -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine Fuel Pump
<< Can anyone out there tell me something about the engine fuel pump. Such as, if the mechanical engine pump fails will always bypass so as to use the electric pump to feed? >> Not always. Some install a mech. pump bypass, which has to include a 1-way valve in the bypass loop. No other changes to the system. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
The key words in the below section of the FAR's are "MORE THAN". The RV's that do not have retractable landing gear are not "COMPLEX" aircraft. As far as I know that's ALL but one RV-4. The below section refers to "HIGH-PERFORMANCE" aircraft which a Harmon Rocket is or any RV with "more than" 200 HP. AL FAR part 61.31Sec: (f) Additional training required for operating high-performance airplanes. (1) Except as provided in paragraph (f)(2) of this section, no person may act as pilot in command of a high-performance airplane (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower), unless the person has-- (i) Received and logged ground and flight training from an authorized instructor in a high-performance airplane, or in a flight simulator or flight training device that is representative of a high-performance airplane, and has been found proficient in the operation and systems of the airplane; and (ii) Received a one-time endorsement in the pilot's logbook from an authorized instructor who certifies the person is proficient to operate a high-performance airplane. (2) The training and endorsement required by paragraph (f)(1) of this section is not required if the person has logged flight time as pilot in command of a high-performance airplane, or in a flight simulator or flight training device that is representative of a high-performance airplane prior to August 4, 1997. > >Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What >additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+ >horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? >Reply off list if you wish and thanks for the information. >Cheers, Paul Lein >RV6A, IO-360 >flying next summer..really..I think ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: RED DOT ON TIRES
Date: Dec 03, 1998
I've always placed the valve stem of the tube close to the red dot on the tire when replacing tires on my airplane. Am I doing it right. > Jim Nolan >N444JN > yellow or white (if marked) or valve core = the tubes heavy point red mark on tire = lightest point. put the marks together when mounting the tire. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Gauges
> >Can someone advise how their tach >gauge would be hooked to a Lycoming with magnetos? > >"Connecting to tach signal: > >For point or pointless distributors, connect the gray wire for the tach >signal to the negative side of the coil. This means that it should work if you connect it to the P-lead. The negative side of the coil of a Kettering type ignition system (points, condenser, coil, battery) generates a signal when the points open very similar to the signal at the P-lead. The only fly in the ointment is that I believe that the polarity reverses on alternate point openings of a magneto so you would see both positive and negative pulses at the P-lead but there are a number of electronic tachs that work just fine so it shouldn't be a problem. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
Gary said: << You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a commercial purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give instruction. >> The exception, of course, is the Crew Training category which Van's factory aircraft are licensed under, so that Mike S. can give dual instruction in them for hire. Admitedly, not many homebuilts are licensed in that category. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
> 1998 FARs state: > FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes > [...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a > controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs. > > FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance > airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower) -- > doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below. is that why the -8 is designed to handle up to 200 hp, so you won't need another signoff? (for that matter, is that why lycoming makes a 200 hp engine, to just touch the limit there?) how do they determine whether an engine is over or under the 200 hp limit? i would think it would be easy to boost an IO-360 up to 201. do they have some way to measure or calculate the actual power of each engine, or do they go by the manufacturers' ratings? > >> What additional endorsements to your license > >> did you need to add? One for 200+ > >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? i don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license) -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA44)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jigs
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Larry, I went to Home Depot and had them cut 1 1/2 " galv. pipe for an "H" frame using steel flanges to attach to the floor and ceiling and attached a good pc of fir 6"X 105" for a shelf to mount the Avery brackets. Its not free standing, but the cost was less than $100, and it's straight. I clamped 2x6x10 to support the wings. I build the entire jig in 3 hrs. Doug Gardner RV-8A "Maggie O'Connell" # 80717 Closing port wing Palm Harbor Florida > -----Original Message----- > From: Doug Hormann [SMTP:dhormann(at)gte.net] > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 12:22 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Free Standing Jigs > > > Larry, > > I think your best served by avoiding solid lumber all together. Even > kiln dried, pressure treated lumber will move (warp, curl). That is a > natural property of wood and cannot be avoided unless you have a > perfectly temperature and humidity controlled workspace. (Something > like the new space station might work. :)) > > Although I did make the uprights on my jig out of pressure treated 2X4s > I made the horizontal piece for my jib by constructing a box beam out of > 5/8 AC plywood. Plywood is dimensionally stable and will remain > relatively straight. I constructed mine using an 8' sheet of plywood. > Out of that I cut three 4' wide pieces, one for the top and each side. > I left the bottom of my beam open, but you could close it if you like > which will give a better clamping surface. I then glued and screwed the > pieces together forming a beam with the better side of the plywood > facing outward. In order to make it long enough, I spliced an extra > foot or so onto each piece, which goes on the inside of the beam. No > need to get fancy with it. Your beam will look like an upside down U > when you are done. Make sure you countersink the screws so they don't > scratch anything, and sand the top. You can attack the beam to the > uprights using any of a number of methods. I attached a wooden cleat to > the uprights and screwed the beam to them. This has stayed perfectly > straight and level despite being in an unheated garage in rainy Oregon. > I currently have my horizontal stab sitting on mine and didn't have to > shim any of the brackets when I screwed them on. > > I would use the same material to a free standing jig. With plywood you > can made the ends any shape you need to to provide strength and it's > cheap. > > Regards, > > Doug Hormann > > Larry Bowen wrote: > > > > > > Where does one get high-end wood products? I used 'normal' kiln-dried > > 2x4's, Liquid Nails, and drywall screws to make 4x4's for my emp jig - > > they are constantly curling and warping as the weather changes. Are > > laminated products $pecial order? > > > > -Larry > > RV-8 emp almost done, wings enroute > > http://larry.bowen.com > > > > > >From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> > > > >Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Wing Jig > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I would like to know if it is possible to build a free standing > > wing > > > >jig, has anybody had any luck with this. > > > > > > > >Chris Santschi. > > > >Festus, MO. > > > > > > I did and I'm sure many others have. I had no choice, the ceiling > > was > > > about 15 feet high. I used laminated 2X4s, created two "T" shapes. > > I > > > turned the T upside down (naturally), added a cross piece at the > > bottom > > > and the top. (Use metal gussets). > > > > > > So far so good, but it won't work unless you add guy wires from the > > top > > > of each inverted T to the end of the floor piece. Then, you > > criss-cross > > > guy wires in the back of the jig. > > > > > > Use "Liquid Nails" at each corner to keep it from moving around. > > > > > > It sounds like a spider web, but actually it is very workable and > > doesn't > > > get in the way (mostly). > > > > > > Bill Watson > > > RV-6A, fuse building in the jig (no guy wires) > > > Mountain View CA > > > > > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld
JR, Dont have any personal experience flying with a handheld in an RV, but polled a lot of RV pilots at the various airshows/fly-ins I attended this past year, and I'd say the flying public agrees with you. Based on that I bought an Airmap 100 which Ive used a few times with yoke mount in the spam that I rent and I love it. I also plan to build a recessed mount into my panel. One thing I would add (again based on my poll) is to mount the unit center and as high in the panel as possible to minimize viewing problems. A number of guys told me they wished they had located their compass off to the side of the panel and their handheld GPS top center. Thats what Im gonna do. Mike Wills RV-4 fuse willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > >Concerning the handheld GPS--have you considered building them into your >instrument panel or console or armrest. Maybe have a swing away door so the >unit can be accessed for use in another vehicle. I have seen several done this >way and it looks neat and works great. The Garmin 90 and the new GPS 3 in >particular lend themselves to this set up. The GPS 3 can be fitted into the >panel such that it looks like a tiny panel mount. The hand-helds are the way >to go--just my opinion--I do not hold mine--I surface mounted my Garmin 90 to >my panel --also a viable method of securing them to the panel. That way I can >pop it out for a hike in a flash or to navigate around Oshkosh for the >directionally challenged. The handhelds are cheaper and useable in multiple >missions. They have excellent capabilities and great displays and neat >features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that >will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most of >us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this >obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the >audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me) >and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand held CD >player plugged into his fancy AMP sounded no different than the CD player that >was the obligatory 17 and 3/4 inches wide by 14 inches deep and of course >BLACK with lots of flashing lights. Standing by for the torpedoes--damm the >torpedoes -- full speed ahead. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Hal, I'm retired from painting now, but when I painted freelance I'd charge anywhere between 1.5 to 2.5 the material cost, depending on complexity. Laird 1 more paint job to do....MINE! From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 2:19 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? Laird, You said: "Personally, if it were one of my customer jobs, 1 gallon of paint plus reducers would be the minimum. " What would you charge a customer to paint an RV6? Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Subject: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Don, Any quality paint product will need a....oh, I hate to say it.... a primer. I use Ditzlers DP50/DP402 Epoxy for anything aluminum, and Ditzler DZ3 lacquer primer for anything else, like fiberglass. Laird From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Dec 2, 1998 3:20 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Paint for RV-8? >Personally, I like using Ditzlers Acrylic Urethane, Deltron. It's >easier to shoot than enamel (shoots similar to lacquers) but just as >tough. It's not quite as tough as a Poly Urethane, like Delthane or >Emron, but it can be polished out, and repaired easily. Once a Poly >sets up it can't be polished or repaired well. I'm not sure what the >Dupont equivalent is to Deltron. > >When the urethanes came out, I threw out ALL the enamel I had in the >cabinet. >Just my opinion though. > >Laird >Socal RV-6 finish kit Do I need to prime under the Deltron? If so, with what? Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
> >Here is a question for RV pilots flying behind IO-360 engines: What >additional endorsements to your license did you need to add? One for 200+ >horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? Well, the FAA seems to have the concept of both complex (retractable gear, controllable pitch prop, flaps) and high-performance (HP > 200). Since RV's don't have retractable gear I don't think they qualify as "complex" and since the IO-360 is rated at 200 hp it doesn't qualify as "high performance." (the engine has to be *greater* than 200 hp to qualify as high performance.) My opinion (worth every penny you paid for it) is that you need neither endorsement to fly one of these aircraft. FAR Sec. 61.31 covers this. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
> >It was my understanding that an experimental aircraft can not be used for >training at all. If this is incorrect, I'd build an RV and then learn how >to fly. You may learn to fly in your RV. That is not a problem. OTOH you may not use an experimental aircraft "for hire" which is what a flying schools is doing when they rent you an airplane. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com>
Subject: Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> >features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS that >will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that most of >us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this >obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the >audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 (me) >and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand held CD I agree, I have a bunch of vinyl too . I've been following this thread with interest, and have to add a somewhat "middle of the road" solution regarding handheld vs. panel-mount GPS/comm: I am using a King/Skyforce SkymapII along with an Icom A-200 comm. This gives an upgradeable, large display, very sunlight readable handheld GPS. I can then take this unit and plug it into the RV's panel, and now its a panel mounted GPS (that fully interfaces with autopilots/fuel computers/etc. and uses the aircrafts built in antenna). The price was $2200 (including Skymap/Icom/rack mount/airframe GPS antenna). Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picked up Aero Sport engine yesterday and man does it look good !) rvsixer(at)pacbell.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
In a message dated 12/3/98 2:21:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, dhormann(at)gte.net writes: > Gary, > > You might want to review the 1998 FARs. Damn, next you'll tell me that I need to update my 1980 AIM! Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Taper Them All?
Listers, In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already, all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes? There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges per wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to kick myself if I don't taper it like the others. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Games
Date: Dec 03, 1998
This is not RV related, so hit delete now if you want to. I just made an impulse buy for an early Christmas present for myself. It is Microsoft's new WW 2 combat flight simulator. It is great and so are the graphics. I bought it because of magazine reports on the game and I am sure most guys would enjoy it. I also got Jane's Fighter Anthology (F18s etc.) the best graphics I have ever seen. These may be games, but I read in a letter to editor of a flying mag that the writer used Microsoft Flight Simulator to get aquainted with Bell Jetranger. Took him 3 months to learn how to hover, (seems long time), but when he spent the real dollars for dual time, was able to hover very well and transitioned quite quickly. Just a thought for your consideration. Don't tell me none of us want to fool with these computer games ! Just be sure to fire up the game before you rivet, because after rivetting, your gun hand may not be as steady......har...har.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Carb / FI Heat
I just got back from Flying a new C-172 that has an IO-360. This plane does not have any selector for alternate air or heat. Do the new C-172's have an automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like the FAR's would require heat. Rob Hickman IO-360 CS RV-4 N401RH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
Dan As I recall in your original note you asked what plane would be good to learn in for an RV. Some of the answers got sidetracked into different threads. To answer your question. IMHO for a taildragger, a Citrabria would be good. For a tricylce gear a Grumman TR-2. Both can be used as trainers. The Grumman is a pretty hot trainer and it is the closest thing that I have flown to an RV. Looks sort of similar too. But, the TR2 with a small engine would not work too well at high densisty altitude, of course neither does a C-150 at 5000' MSL and 95 degrees. In the flying club I belong to, we have three Citrabria's, and they are next to impossible to schedule. They are by far the most used aircraft we have of some 60 planes. I think the Citabria has a fairly good resale value, lots of fun to fly and you can learn how to fly a taildragger. Some of the instructors at our club insist on starting their beginning sudents in the Citabria! If you can land a Citabria, you should be able to land an RV6 or 6A. Those with more experience might want to comment on my last statement. I learned to fly after I started building my RV. Four years later I have about 200 flying hours, but my RV is still not completed. Maybe if I spent my flying time on building, I would be done? Just for your info, getting a license is a lot of time studying (meaning no RV building) and each flight includes: travel to and from the airport, pre/post checks and hanger BS time with airport locals. I allocate about 3 hours total time expended for a one hour flight. Good luck on the decision. Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbirdman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: How Much Paint for RV-8?
Von, I used Imron on my -6 and it took almost two gallons of white. If you use Imron or if you use hardener in enamel, be sure to use a supplied air respirator to protect your lungs, a canister respirator will not protect you from the isocyanurates (sp?) in the paint. Guard your health! Gary Bray Carmel, Maine RV-6....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Pulley Size
Date: Dec 03, 1998
But it will start generating full output sooner at the higher rpm which is handy when you have the throttle pulled back when landing at night with landing lights, pitot heat, etc. -----Original Message----- From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 1:17 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator Pulley Size > >In a message dated 12/3/98 12:37:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net >writes: > ><< Doesn't matter a damn about the RPM. > It does have a cooling fan and they run just as hard and years longer while > in automotive use. >> >It does matter from the standpoint of HP consumed. It will absorb a little >less HP running slower. > >Regards, Merle > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Starter Ring gear change
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Get a different and geared starter. -----Original Message----- From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 1:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Starter Ring gear change > >Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 tooth to >improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, RV-3A with >slow cranking 0-320.... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: Panel GPS vs handheld
Date: Dec 03, 1998
there is a good article on the avweb about the use of a handheld gps for ifr (the link is http://www.avweb.com/articles/pelperch/pelp0011.html ). i have a lowrance airmap 300, which i really love (especially because it depicts CTZ's, which not all of them do. i know where the class b airspace is, but who can keep track of every towered field?) and i am trying to figure out how to accomodate it in my rv-6a (under construction). i don't know if this is strictly true, but i have been told that getting an ifr certification for a panel mount gps is a very arduous process, and most manufacturers will not allow a do-it-yourself installation. as a result you can plan on an extra $2-3,000 to the avionics shop, plus a bit more to interface the unit to an hsi or cdi. then there are the database updates... all-in-all, this stuff adds up. at the moment, i am leaning towards a dual comm, single vor/loc/gs, single x-ponder stack with my lowrance as a backup. i guess none of this matters much if you're building a vfr panel, since although you will pay a little more for a panel-mount, you could probably install it yourself. louis cappucci rv-6aqb mamaroneck, ny > ---------- > From: Robert Acker[SMTP:robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com] > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 2:46 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:: Panel GPS vs handheld > > > > > > >features. I cannot imagine paying thousands of dollars for a panel GPS > that > >will be somewhat obsolete in a few years when all the capability that > most > of > >us need is available for 400 to 600 dollars in a handheld. I think this > >obsession to stack expensive black boxes into the panel is similar to the > >audiophile who bought a whole pile of stereo equipment back about 1985 > (me) > >and the next year found LP's no longer available and that a small hand > held > CD > > I agree, I have a bunch of vinyl too . > > I've been following this thread with interest, and have to add a somewhat > "middle of the road" solution regarding handheld vs. panel-mount GPS/comm: > > I am using a King/Skyforce SkymapII along with an Icom A-200 comm. This > gives an upgradeable, large display, very sunlight readable handheld GPS. > I > can then take this unit and plug it into the RV's panel, and now its a > panel > mounted GPS (that fully interfaces with autopilots/fuel computers/etc. and > uses the aircrafts built in antenna). > > The price was $2200 (including Skymap/Icom/rack mount/airframe GPS > antenna). > > Rob Acker (RV-6Q, picked up Aero Sport engine yesterday and man does it > look > good !) > rvsixer(at)pacbell.net > > > > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > +------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
> Gary said: > > << You can RECEIVE instruction/training in an experimental that you own. An > experimental aircraft (amateur-built category) cannot be used for a > commercial > purpose and as such an instructor cannot use a home-built aircraft to give > instruction. >> > > The exception, of course, is the Crew Training category which Van's factory > aircraft are licensed under, so that Mike S. can give dual instruction in them > for hire. Admitedly, not many homebuilts are licensed in that category. > > -Bill B i think there is exactly one RV-6 that is so licensed. the rest are research and development, or production prototypes, or factory demonstrators, and cannot be hired out any more than a homebuilt can. according to van's, the flying qualities of all the different models are sufficiently close to each other that the single RV-6 is good enough for transition training to any RV. -D- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B&S Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
Date: Dec 03, 1998
I didn't taper mine and I still like them! ---------- > > > Listers, > In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already, > all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but > on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes? > > There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges per > wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to kick > myself if I don't taper it like the others. > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 Prepping wing spars > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Starter Ring gear change
Cy:Have a Sky-Tec HT geared starter and RG-25 battery almost new....Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Plane to fly
> >Dan > >I learned to fly after I started building my RV. Four years later I have >about 200 flying hours, but my RV is still not completed. Maybe if I >spent my flying time on building, I would be done? Just for your info, >getting a license is a lot of time studying (meaning no RV building) and >each flight includes: travel to and from the airport, pre/post checks >and hanger BS time with airport locals. > >Good luck on the decision. > >Bob Busick >RV-6 >Fremont Ca > Not to mention the dent that learning to fly, and staying current puts in the building budget. I would be much further along if I had waited until the RV was done before taking the lessons. If I had it to do over I would wait. Of course once the flying bug has bit its hard to stay away. I gave up hang gliding (I'd been flying hang gliders for 10 years at the time) when I started building and had to get my flying fix some other way. There ought to be some kind of 12 step program for the temporarily grounded who are suffering withdrawal symptoms! Mike Wills RV-4 fuse willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Air filter maintenance
I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the maintenance of the air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this; suggested cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated. Walt 79WH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM wrote: ****SNIP**** > In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already, > all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but > on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes? > > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 Prepping wing spars ****SNIP*** Mike, Tappering is optional. The flanges of the nose ribs are riveted to spar between the spar flange strips and the un-tappered strips will not be in the way. If I remember correctly, I only tappered them for aproximately 17". Just a little weight savings. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
Subject: Plane buy update
Thank you to everyone who has sent back advise on purchasing a trainer while I build. Every comment is truly appreciated. I do need something docile since I only have 65 hours on my ticket. I expect to get up to about 200 by the time I finish my "real" plane. I have a line on a zodiac (the plane I chose not to build) and on a Pulsar 582. I know about the zodiac since I did some research on them, but know nothing about the Pulsar 582. Any knowledge out there? Dan Wiesel RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working skins on.....awaiting finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: #2000 RV
Hi Everybody! << On November 13, 1998 the counter rolled over to 2000 as the 2000th RV completed was reported to Van's Aircraft. >> >> Are you keeping the builder anon. or are you going to give him a little >> publicity in Kitplanes, etc? Nothing like that planned to my understanding. On Fri the 13th, I believe there were several completions reported -- who then really is #2000 if you add several at one time? Also, it wasn't the #2000 RV completed, it was the 2000th that was reported to Van's, not everybody has reported completions. FYI, the count is now at 2017. [Personal note: A little over a month ago, in a preface to a message, it was pointed out that I might have "insulted [you] all." I had absolutely no intention of doing this. If you felt insulted, please e-mail me so I can personally apologize. If you don't know what I am talking about, then good, never mind...] Have a great day, happy/merry [insert your holiday here] *<|:-) ~Jeremy :-) :-) :-) jwb(at)europa.com I speak for myself only. This is a personal message. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Carb / FI Heat
>I just got back from Flying a new C-172 that has an IO-360. This plane does >not have any selector for alternate air or heat. Do the new C-172's have an >automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like >the FAR's would require heat. > >Rob Hickman Rod, I just looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the C-172S, the new one with the IO-360 (available at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol1/3a12.pdf). On page 28 it lists an Equivalent Safety Item for FAR 23.1093 Induction System Icing Protection. An Equivalent Safety Item means the the design does not meet the applicable FAR requirement, but the manufacturer was able to convince the FAA that the design provides an equivalent level of safety. I can't comment on this specific case because I am not familiar with the design, I have not reviewed the engineering justification that supports the Equivalent Safety Finding, and my area of expertise is flight test, not powerplant ice protection. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: AV-8 or AV-10 discount
Date: Dec 03, 1998
I will not be buying soon but thought I would pass on this info. to those who are close. This is from Rod at Audio Flight Avionics. Ross Mickey Niner Papa Tango ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Hi Ross, Sorry for the delay. Win 95 (& Bill Gates) giving me a hard time again. We are also very busy doing flight testing on our new Airspeed / Altimeter, while the weather here is good (60 F!). The remote display dimensional drawings can be downloaded from the Options section of the Web site. I can offer a discount for a quantity purchase off the basic systems (less probes & sensors). 1 unit 2-4 units 5+ AV-8 $699 $600 $550 AV-10 $1,100 $950 $880 2-Line $185 $170 $150 Remote Disp. 4- Line $225 $200 $190 Remote Disp. If you need any more details, give me a call or E-mail. Regards, Rod Audio Flight Avionics "First in Voice Alerting Engine Monitors" Toll Free 1-800-737-9185 (USA & CAN) Local (416) 698-6928 E-mail, afa(at)rose.com Internet Web-site http://www.rose.com/~afa Take care of all your engine monitoring needs in one 3 1/8" gauge, that you don't have to look at. Actual voice message will get your attention when a limit has been exceeded! Programmable limits on all parameters. It's a gauge and a scanner. (over 30 functions / incl. fuel flow & totalizer, rotor rpm, twin engines, 24 thermocouple inputs, data logging, etc.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
***************************************************************************** Complex and High performance sign off do not apply to homebuilts. ***************************************************************************** In other cases, there are potentially TWO (2) sign offs. If you fly a Piper Retract. Arrow of 200 HP (High performance is OVER 200 HP), you need a Complex sign off only (in fact, you can not get a High Performance Sign off in an retract. Arrow with 200 HP). If you fly a Comanchee 250 HP, you need both a High Performance and Complex sign off. This applies if you do not meet the grandfather dates for either. david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 n44df started ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: alternator pulley size
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 03, 1998
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: Progressive Air <proair(at)mail.ocis.net> Subject: alternator pulley size Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 14:23:46 -0800 Listers; I am forwarding Bart at Aero Sport Power's response to the alternator pulley question. Von, In answer to your question. There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best. Regards, Aero Sport Power Bart Lalonde --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Subject: ALTERNATOR RPM
The alternator turns 9572 rpm at 2700 rpm engine speed. (engine pulley = 9.75" / alternator pulley 2.75") X 2700 rpm = 9572 rpm. Wayne RV-4 baffles ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat
>says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components *** >on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of providing a*** > > >From a legalistic point of view, throttle-body injection may be different > from carburation but from a functional point of view, they sure look just > about the same to me. If I had a throttle-body injection system I would > want a regular carb heat system so the above FAR makes a whole bunch of sense. > > Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies ***What is "impact" ice? It sounds like they are talking about the induction system inhaling ice. I've not flown a plane with thottle body injection, but the 2 I've flown with port injection had spring loaded (automatic) alternate air doors which opened into the lower cowling, so that if the cowl intake ices up (effectively airframe ice), the engine could breathe from the lower cowl air. I've always thought that "carb ice" was just that: ice formed in the carb by the temperature drop due to the venturi effect of reduced pressure in the carb throat. If the throttle body injector is truly an injector, then it shouldn't need the venturi pressure drop (and resultant temperature drop) used by a carb to draw fuel from the bowl. Comments? Charlie RV-4 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air filter maintenance
> > I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the maintenance of the > air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this; suggested > cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated. > > Walt 79WH Walt: Recommond purchasing the Fliter Recharge Kit from Van's for $5.50. Order number: EA K&N 99-5050 Kit. Everything you need is included. I took my filter off when I had about 200 hours. It was still quite clean and could have went longer. I will only be cleaning mine about once a year for now on. Looks like I will be leaving the plane in Jackson for another week. = Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell Flying in So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Starter Ring gear change
> > Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 tooth to > improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, RV-3A with > slow cranking 0-320.... Jim: I replaced the 122 with a 149 when I rebuilt the engine. There is no difference in cranking speed. I wanted the 149 as there are more Lycomings out there configured that way. I am able to borrow a spare from a friend while I get mine repaired. = Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell Flying in So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Carb / FI Heat
In a message dated 12/3/98 1:31:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, RobHickman(at)aol.com writes: << Do the new C-172's have an automatic alternate heated air source? From the previous posts it seems like the FAR's would require heat. >> Maybe they are using two sources at the same time that are large enough to be the "sole source" should one become blocked. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Cinical mounts 0-320
Date: Dec 03, 1998
This list is great!!!! My thanks to Mike Seager and Mark Todd who responded to my post a couple of months ago on engine vibrations. I guess Murphys law prevailed. The last thing you check is the culprit. I had a roughness/vibration at about 3 different power/prop combinations ( 0-320-160 hp/Hartzell C/S ) Through a process of elimination from removing wheel pants/gearleg fairings to checking valve lifters, push rods, valve adjustments, wiring harnesses, mags, timing to turning the prop 180 degrees and a dynamic prop balance. The last thing we checked and replaced were the rubber engine mounts. When my engine was to be installed (1993) we phoned a supply shop and ordered new mounts for an 0-320 B3B engine. We thought they would know which mounts to send us. I had a qualified person to help install the engine. I didn't know any better so we installed the soft rubber donuts that were for a conical mount engine. I have never been really happy but no one seemed to be able to sort out this problem. I thought that maybe I was just being to fussy, but I was uncomfortable. I did my test flight yesterday and what a difference! I had the wrong rubber engine mounts. Any of you putting in a 0-320 conical mount engine should consider using the following : Lord J 6230-1 mount. Torque to 350 to 450 inch pounds . Four sets required at about $78.00 per set from Chief Aircraft. Thanks Mike and Todd Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93 Salmon Arm B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com>
Subject: RV6 for sale
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Check out this RV 6 if you want. Only 41K for a limited time. http://www.redrock.net/thomas/brad/index.html Brad Bundy Flying Chard built RV6 bundyb(at)infowest.com ---------- > From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Plane buy update > Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 4:12 PM > > > Thank you to everyone who has sent back advise on purchasing a trainer > while I build. Every comment is truly appreciated. > > I do need something docile since I only have 65 hours on my ticket. I > expect to get up to about 200 by the time I finish my "real" plane. > > I have a line on a zodiac (the plane I chose not to build) and on a Pulsar > 582. I know about the zodiac since I did some research on them, but know > nothing about the Pulsar 582. Any knowledge out there? > > > Dan Wiesel > RV6a QB - empennage mounted, controls working > skins on.....awaiting finishing kit > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
Date: Dec 03, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 2:42 PM Subject: RV-List: Taper Them All? > > Mike: No need to taper those long spar flanges. the cutouts in the leading edge ribs are sized to fit that flange. Do yourself a favor and do not taper them. Regards, Jeff Orear Rv6A 25171 wings Peshtigo, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arzflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
I received my RV-6A QB kit 20 Jan. '98. In Sept., I sent in the following: AC Form 8050-1 Aircraft Registration Application $5.00 to U. S. Treasurer(Must accompany the above form) AC Form 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership For Amateur-Built Aircraft(Notarized) AC Form 8050-110 Confirmation of Reservation of US Registration Number Form(I had previously applied for and was issued a reserved number) A cover letter stating that I wanted to apply for Aircraft Registration, the Registration Number that I wanted assigned(my reserved number)the serial number that I was assigning to the aircraft, manufacturer name(me)and model number(RV-6A), Manufacturer, model and serial number of the engine and that it is a two place, single-engine land-craft. Within about 30 days I received my Aircraft Registration Form completed just as I had requested. About 30 days later I received a letter from the AZ DOT(Dept. of Theft)not as requested. The FAA did not request any drawings, photos or any other documents as some have suggested. At Oshkosh I stopped by the FAA building and picked up the required forms to accomplish what I have just described. The person that "briefed" me stated that after Sept. 30, 1998, AC Form 8050-2 Aircraft Bill of Sale will be required when making application for registration. So I decided to hurry my application and meet that dead-line, as I see that(Bill of Sale Form require- ment)as another way that the FEDS are assisting the states with their tax collection program. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Air filter maintenance
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> >I've got 100 hours on my 6A now and was curious as to the maintenance >of the >air filter. It is a stock filter from Van's. Any advice on this; >suggested >cleaning agents; proper cleaning intervals, etc would be appreciated. > >Walt 79WH > > > Be sure and heed the warnings that came with the instructions with the K&N filter in the FAB kit. The filter media is cotton and can be easily damaged by some cleaning techniques and by some chemicals. The biggest no-no is compressed air. It can blow voids or thin spots into the media that you can't see which would severely degrade its filtering ability. The best advice is that you get a cleaning/recharge kit from Van's or any other K&N dealer and follow the instructions exactly. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: alternator pulley size
Date: Dec 03, 1998
>Von, > >In answer to your question. > >There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were >designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still >allow >full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft >Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be >turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best. > >Regards, > >Aero Sport Power > >Bart Lalonde > Hi Bart, Good to see you on the list. Your engine knowledge will be of great value. To add another idea to the alt. pulley issue. On RV's the cowl to pully clearance is already at the minimum possible to have a nice streamlined cowl shape. If you use a larger pulley you are reducing this clearance even further. Depending on the final fit of your cowling you could end up with pulley to cowl contact. some builders have this problem even with the small pulley depending on the cowl fit and if they use too long of an alternator drive belt. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
From: daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah)
Hi Mike, Do not taper the long spar pieces, they are to be left as is with just the very ends finished as per the plans. Dave Ahrens, RV-6A fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
Date: Dec 03, 1998
>> >> What additional endorsements to your license >> >> did you need to add? One for 200+ >> >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? > >I don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph >require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license) That's why my airplane has a 199-hp engine and a top speed of 199 mph (for the FAA.) For hangar flying, of course, it has 230 hp and goes 230 mph ; ) Regards, Tom Craig-Stearman 199 hp, 199 mph RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Cinical mounts 0-320
Date: Dec 03, 1998
This list is great!!!! My thanks to Mike Seager and Mark Todd who responded to my post a couple of months ago on engine vibrations. I guess Murphys law prevailed. The last thing you check is the culprit. I had a roughness/vibration at about 3 different power/prop combinations ( 0-320-160 hp/Hartzell C/S ) Through a process of elimination from removing wheel pants/gearleg fairings to checking valve lifters, push rods, valve adjustments, wiring harnesses, mags, timing to turning the prop 180 degrees and a dynamic prop balance. The last thing we checked and replaced were the rubber engine mounts. When my engine was to be installed (1993) we phoned a supply shop and ordered new mounts for an 0-320 B3B engine. We thought they would know which mounts to send us. I had a qualified person to help install the engine. I didn't know any better so we installed the soft rubber donuts that were for a conical mount engine. I have never been really happy but no one seemed to be able to sort out this problem. I thought that maybe I was just being to fussy, but I was uncomfortable. I did my test flight yesterday and what a difference! I had the wrong rubber engine mounts. Any of you putting in a 0-320 conical mount engine should consider using the following : Lord J 6230-1 mount. Torque to 350 to 450 inch pounds . Four sets required at about $78.00 per set from Chief Aircraft. Thanks Mike and Todd Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93 Salmon Arm B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Date: Dec 03, 1998
>Good advise EXCEPT for ">( the FAA employee doesn't have to worry because he >is protected by just being a government employee)." > >Government employees are not protected. One of the basic reasons for all >our weird FAR, AC and AD regulations. They have to CTA. > Hate to say this, but federal employees ARE bonded and protected. DERs and etc are NOT Ron FAA DER, KC-668 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Angle of Attack Sensor
Those of you who are considering installing an Angle of Attack Sensor may want to consider a new version of the top of the line system from Proprietary Software Systems. Called the AOA Sport, it is an order of magnitude better than some of the simpler systems being offered at about the same price and takes up very little panel space. It has no ugly probe, has flap position sensor, RS 232 outputs, Voice warnings, and other features that none of the other systems have. I bought one and am very impressed with the system. For more information, contact Jim Frantz at: jim@angle-of-attack.com, or (612) 474-4154. Tell Jim that I referred you. I am not on the list because I need to spend all of my spare time on my Quickbuild so that I can be at Oshkosh next year. I have no connection to the company, but like to pass on good information about products that I find are good values. Jim Cone RV-6A Quickbuild Working on the Instrument Panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat
> >>says that "Engines using fuel injection systems having metering components >*** >on which impact ice may accumulate has a preheater capable of >providing a*** I was commenting more on the need for a certain induction air temp rise than on whether or not the ice was impact ice. >***What is "impact" ice? > >It sounds like they are talking about the induction system inhaling ice. Right. Think snow. You are flying in snow (water already turned into ice) and it whacks into your induction air intake. Enough of the stuff and it plugs things up. >I've always thought that "carb ice" was just that: ice formed in the >carb by the temperature drop due to the venturi effect of reduced >pressure in the carb throat. If the throttle body injector is truly an >injector, then it shouldn't need the venturi pressure drop (and >resultant temperature drop) used by a carb to draw fuel from the bowl. It isn't the pressure differential that creates the big change in temperature. Frankly, the temp in the venturi doesn't change a whole lot. No, the big temp change stems from the heat needed to vaporize the fuel. That heat comes out of the air and the air temp drops. If you have a carb air temp guage you can prove this to yourself by getting up fairly high, checking the carb air temp, pulling out the mixture control to cut off fuel, and watch what happens to carb air temp. It will rise very close to the OAT. Oh, and don't forget to push the mixture control back in again before you get to the ground. Now why do I want to treat throttle body injection the same as a carburetor? Well, they look the same to me. A carburetor uses the reduced pressure in the venturi to draw the fuel from the bowl and spew it into the airstream upwind from the throttle valve. In throttle body injection a pump pushs the fuel out the metering jet which spews it into the airstream (usually) upwind from the throttle valve. The operant phrase here is "spew it into the airstream..." and it really doesn't matter where the pressure differential comes from to get the fuel spewing. As the fuel vaporizes, the temperature drops. If it drops below freezing and the dewpoint is greater than the final air temperature (gotta turn it into liquid water in order to freeze) you are going to get ice. (Footnote: yes you can get it to go directly from gas to solid but that doesn't usually happen at pressures and temperatures we normally deal with.) Notice that I didn't mention, "and the fuel was sucked in by low pressure in a venturi." You know, we used to call "throttle body injectors" by a different name. We used to call them "pressure carburetors." And they used to get carb ice back in those days. I don't think that the ice really cares what we call the thing metering the fuel into the induction air. And why don't we have the problem with multipoint injection? Well, you are spraying the fuel right at the intake valve which, due to its somewhat close proximity to a source of heat, i.e. the fuel burning in the cylinder, doesn't give the ice much chance to stay ice. As a matter of fact, I think the old adage, "about as much chance as a snowball in hell," applies pretty well here. >Comments? Hardly any. : ) Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: prop hub holes
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Just came across your question. If you are trying to use 7/16 bolts instead of 3/8" you need to press out the drive lugs that are threaded for 3/8 and press in a set that are 7/16. No machining at all. -----Original Message----- From: Sam Richards <samav8(at)hotmail.com> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 4:05 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: prop hub holes > > >>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998 >>Received: from [207.171.250.179] by hotmail.com (1.0) with SMTP id >MHotMail30888722143883506532499348415454720850; Wed Nov 18 12:03:45 1998 >> by matronics.com (8.8.8/Matronics-1.2) id MAA05446 >>From: "L.R. BENTLY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za> >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV-List: prop hub holes >>Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:53:24 +0200 >>X-Priority: 3 >>Message-ID: <19981118195617.AAA29110(at)jackal.intekom.co.za@default> >>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >>Precedence: bulk >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >>Good day listers . Can anyone out there tell me if and how to enlarge >the >>mounting holes on the prop. hub from I think 3/8" to 7/16" , many >thanks >>.South Africa RV6 wings . >> Hello LLoyd, I have never had to to the above operation, so this is >just a suggestion. Obviously hole positioning in this application is >critical. It is definitely not a job for a home workshop. The holes >could be bored with a 7/16" cutter with a 3/8" guide - a similar >arrangement to the way our microstop countersinks are guided. It >would be best set up on a mill with a 3-jawed chuck mounted on a >2-dimensional cross slide for accurate positioning. >I would be tempted to get a quote from your local Lycoming workshop, >considering the hassles involved. > >Best regards, Sam Richards, RV-6 Newcastle AUS >> >> >> >> >> > > --+ > | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com | > | --- | > | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" | > | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. | > | --- | > | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting! | > --+ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: alternator pulley size
> >--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- >From: Progressive Air <proair(at)mail.ocis.net> >To: n41va(at)juno.com >Subject: alternator pulley size >Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 14:23:46 -0800 >Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.19981203142346.00686dc4(at)mail.ocis.net> > >Listers; I am forwarding Bart at Aero Sport Power's response to the >alternator pulley question. > >Von, > >In answer to your question. > >There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were >designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow >full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft >Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be >turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best. > >Regards, > >Aero Sport Power > >Bart Lalonde > Hello listers: To My knowledge; The prime reason for going to a larger alternator pulley is to reduce the amount of power used to drive the alternator at unnecessary high speed, thereby allowing the saved power to be utilized elseware. I'll leave it to one of the engineering types to try to describe dynamics of and the amount of power wasteage above six or seven thousand rpm. The horse power wasted is considerable. I have not seen an example of overspeed destruction or damage to an alternator yet. Though I'm sure it has happened. I think the large pulley swap is an old street racing trick. There were and still are some eighty five hundered and higher rpm. small blocks out there tearing up the tarmack. Oh My wasted youth! jim Kelowna B.C. RV6-eh top left skins done.> When dreams come true the sky is the limit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Inspection
Arzflyer(at)aol.com wrote: > > Within about 30 days I received my Aircraft Registration Form > completed just as I had requested. > > About 30 days later I received a letter from the AZ DOT(Dept. of > Theft)not as requested. > > The FAA did not request any drawings, photos or any other documents > as some have suggested. > Documentation of the building process is normally used by the DAR at the time of inspection. Some look , some don't. But it's best to have it all available. > At Oshkosh I stopped by the FAA building and picked up the required forms > to accomplish what I have just described. The person that "briefed" me > stated that after Sept. 30, 1998, AC Form 8050-2 Aircraft Bill of > Sale will be required when making application for registration. So I decided to > hurry my application and meet that dead-line, as I see that(Bill of Sale Form > requirement) as another way that the FEDS are assisting the states with > their tax collection program. > I could go along with that except the AC form 8050-2 Bill of Sale does not mention dollar amounts. It passes ownership from the kit manufacturer to the builder. This is strange because Federal Courts have ruled that the kit manufacturer is no more than a parts supplier and therefore cannot pass title to a whole airplane, only parts. The FAA bill of sale is worthless to the local sales tax goons. BTW, how did your 'DOT battle' turn out? Bruce (Glasair III builder) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
Date: Dec 03, 1998
I stand corrected on the over 200 hp issue. As for who's measurement does the FAA use, its the manufacturers. Each individual engine is going to make a few more or few less hp do to any number of factors. Back in the 60's many of the automakers used to actually underrate their engines for insurance reasons. Kind of like outboard motors. Ever wonder why many manufacturers make 9.9 hp engines? It's because a number of states exempt boats with less than 10 hp from registration. Regards, Doug Hormann -----Original Message----- From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil <dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil> Date: Thursday, December 03, 1998 11:45 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: private pilot license question > >> 1998 FARs state: >> FAR 61.31(e) Additional training required for operating complex airplanes >> [...] (an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a >> controllable pitch propeller;) -- doesn't apply to fixed-gear RVs. >> >> FAR 61.31(f) Additional training required for operating high performance >> airplanes [...] (an airplane with an engine of more than 200 horsepower) -- >> doesn't apply to RVs with engines of 200 HP and below. > >is that why the -8 is designed to handle up to 200 hp, so you won't need >another signoff? (for that matter, is that why lycoming makes a 200 hp >engine, to just touch the limit there?) > >how do they determine whether an engine is over or under the 200 hp limit? >i would think it would be easy to boost an IO-360 up to 201. do they >have some way to measure or calculate the actual power of each engine, >or do they go by the manufacturers' ratings? > >> >> What additional endorsements to your license >> >> did you need to add? One for 200+ >> >> horsepower and/or one for 200+ MPH? > >i don't know if this got mentioned before, but doesn't 200+ mph >require the 12" registration numbers? (but nothing needed on the license) > >-D- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator trim
> I have > determined that I can't get a 0 degree setting with the control knob > centered. All of the adjustments, i.e. clevis & cable threads are at > their limit. On my -6A with constant speed prop and IO-320B1A engine, my cg is a little further forward than normal (empty weight 1078 lb. and cg 68.64" aft of datum). I did manage to get my trim cable about centered with enough thread engagement on the clevis. I find that the difference in trim from cruise flight to approach with full flaps, usually isn't more than a couple of turns of the knob. In cruise at 180 mph CAS, 75% power, the leading edge of my elevator counterweights are slightly below the stabilizer about 3/8~1/2." With a passenger and a little baggage, they're flush. However, with full fuel and me solo (1475 lb., and cg 71") I can't trim for 90 mph IAS with full flaps and engine at idle, the cg is too far forward, and not enough airflow over the trim tab. Of course during touch-n-goes in this configuration, application of full power with flaps up causes the nose to really come up fast and require the reduction of nose up trim! Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV Broken Arrow, Ok MLaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: Switch Identification
Date: Dec 04, 1998
As I understand it, there is a requirement that all switches and controls be marked and indicate direction of operation. If this is true, what is an accepted method of marking the functions of switches mounted on a fighter style stick (Infinity, F-4 look alike, etc.)? Vince Welch RV-8A (a long way from needing to mark anything but still curious) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Dec 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Switch Identification
>As I understand it, there is a requirement that all switches and controls be >marked and indicate direction of operation. If this is true, what is an >accepted method of marking the functions of switches mounted on a fighter >style stick (Infinity, F-4 look alike, etc.)? There are conventions for the direction of switches, but is not always adhered to. Up or forward is on, down or aft is off. You see a lot of switches on side panels going port or starboard. There are also double throw switches that are labeled for the function in the direction they are switched. A panel-mounted flap switch is an example. The switches on the stick can be marked by a diagram somewhere in the cockpit (really funky looking) or in the Aircraft Flight Handbook/Operator's Manual. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Year Two ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
Date: Dec 03, 1998
>Listers, >In my wing kit recently received the spar flanges are tapered already, >all except for the longest one. I'm cleaning up the tapered ones but >on that last long guy - do I need to taper him for clearance purposes? > >There are negligible weight considerations with just the two flanges >per >wing, but I'm concerned that in riveting down the line I'll want to >kick >myself if I don't taper it like the others. > >Mike Thompson >Austin, TX >-6 Prepping wing spars > > The way the wing kits are currently delivered, all of the lightening tapers that were approved are done for the builder. As far as I know their is no optional lightening work that you can do to the wing spar that isn't already done. The stiffener strips that you are referring too should be left as they are. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Elevator trim
Date: Dec 03, 1998
> ><< RV's generally require much more nose up trim for normal flight > operations than they do nose down trim (which is the reason for the > deflection differences specified on the trim tab travel) >> > >Not in my experience, Scott. I built my 6A per plans and then had to >shim the >LE of the horizontal stab up half a degree to even get close to having >the >trim tab in trail during cruise. Unless I miss understood the original post, I don't think this is relevant to the thread. The original poster was saying that he couldn't get his trim tab to move through the plans specified amounts of travel if he adjusted the trim system so that when the trim tab was neutral, his manual trim control knob was in the center of it's travel range. My post was to say that the knob shouldn't be in the center of its range with the trim tab at neutral. If you do this you will not be able to get enough nose up trim tab deflection. Which comes to my comment that you responded too. I was not referring to cruise flight specifically. I said "normal flight operations" of which I was specifically thinking of operations which included power off glide with flaps down ( landing approach ). This configuration will take the most trim available (if you are at a mid range C.G.). In fact most RV's at this G.G. position probably don't have enough trim available to trim to a normal approach speed hands off if you are using full flaps. As for your need to readjust your stab incidence, I really don't know why. All of the RV-6(A)'s that I have completed, and all of the company planes, have had the stab incidence set at zero deg. and they all trim in cruise with a very small amount of nose down trim (about an 1/8 " of the balance arms showing above the stab.) which is what Van prefers (as discussed here on the last previously). Michael mentioned experiences with the trim on his RV-4. RV-4's are quite different from RV-6(A)'s as far as trim is concerned. They have a much wider C.G. shift when adding a passenger or any kind of baggage. Even though power off on approach it would be more typical for an RV-6(A) to require nose up trim, it is not at all unusual to see an RV-4 after it has landed, with its trim tab near the nose down limit (and some times RV-6(A)'s also). Hope this clears it up. My post was only talking about the mechanics of setting up the trim tab to trim control interface, and like I said before... If you adjust so that when the trim tab is neutral when the trim tab control (manual or electric servo) is in the middle of it's travel, it is likely that you wont be able to get the specified amount of up and down travel on the trim tab. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Starter Ring gear change
Gary A. Sobek wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone ever changed the starter ring gear from 122 tooth to 149 > tooth to > > improve starting on 0-320s(160hp)??? And did it work??? Jim Brown, > RV-3A with > > slow cranking 0-320.... > > Jim: > > I replaced the 122 with a 149 when I rebuilt the engine. There is no > difference in cranking speed. I wanted the 149 as there are more > Lycomings out there configured that way. I am able to borrow a spare > from a friend while I get mine repaired. > > = > Gary A. Sobek > Its My understanding that the 122 and 149 tooth ring gears are matched to different type starters and should not be interchanged unless the starter is also changed. I had a Mooney with the wrong ring gear for the installed starter. A sharp mechanic caught the mistake when he heard me starting the engine, makes a slightly different noise as the gears do not mesh properly! George McNutt, Langley B.C. 6A - Closing wings. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: F-6111
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit? This is the skin reinforcement rib used only for the sliding canopy. Looks kinda like a boomerang. I have searched the archive and found only four messages (very little help). These two ribs are not even close to fitting. If I move the lower end of the F-6111 about two inches forward of the F-624 I could make them fit, but I think that would create a problem later. What's the secret? Any help would be appreciated. Ken Harrill RV-6, fuselage Columbia, SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: New address
I have changed internet providers... My new e-mail address is Bruce Bell would you please re-post your last messages to me. the others got lost in the shuffle. Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: alternator pulley size
>>There has been no problem with the high R.P.M. as the alternators were >>designed to take it. A 4 inch pulley would slow it down and still allow >>full ouput. They are available from Avery Tool in Texas or Aircraft >>Spruce. The alternators make full output at 7000 R.P.M and should be >>turned about 5000 R.P.M in cruise to work the best. Not true. The minimum speed for full output on a modern alternator is on the order of 4,000 rpm. Pulley size should be selected so that full output is available at ramp idle. After all, that's what we really liked about alternators in the first place . . . generators had to be ratioed for full ouput a minimum cruise RPM for brush life, alternators are happier turning fast . . . >The prime reason for going to a larger alternator pulley is to reduce the >amount of power used to drive the alternator at unnecessary high speed, >thereby allowing the saved power to be utilized elseware. >I'll leave it to one of the engineering types to try to describe dynamics of >and the amount of power wasteage above six or seven thousand rpm. The horse >power wasted is considerable. Again, an over fertilized myth. Power input is equal to power ouput less losses in the device. As RPM goes up, torque goes down. And except for increase in windage losses, input horsepower is a constant for constant ouput watts. When RPM goes up, field current goes down (lower heat output) and cooling goes up (fans turn faster). The faster you turn an alternator, the better it likes it. >I have not seen an example of overspeed destruction or damage to an >alternator yet. Though I'm sure it has happened. Not to my knowlege. Modern alternators don't self destruct below 15,000 rpm . . . a Lycoming ring gear pulley driving a stock N-D 2-3/4" pulley runs the alternator about 10,000 rpm in cruise. A very nice combination. >I think the large pulley swap is an old street racing trick. There were and >still are some eighty five hundered and higher rpm. small blocks out there >tearing up the tarmack. Oh My wasted youth! I think the larger pulley's were created to accomodate what was belived to be poor bearing life in some automotive conversions at the time . . . In observing nearly 10 years history and hundreds of thousands of flight hours experience with B&C belt driven alternators on Lycomings, the return rate is ZERO . . . I can confidently suggest that upsizing an alternator pulley is a waste of worry time. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: Taper Them All?
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: >The stiffener strips that you are referring too should be left as they >are. > >Scott McDaniels Thanks, everyone, for your responses. I shall obey the plans (funny how that works out). Sorry for the wasted bandwidth - I went into the archives not long after I sent my note and sure enough, all was revealed! Great tool, that. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Still prepping wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size
My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated speed of 12,000 RPM. Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at low speeds - approaches from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4") to improve belt wear problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't turn things off to conserve. If items should be on, they are on. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: SENSENICH FOR 360
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Jim, Have you seen the published data at our web site? http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmtest.htm We have shipped about 75 propellers to date and it is difficult to say how many are actually flying. I have received several reports back now verifying our numbers. Everyone to date (maybe 5 or 6 guys) have agreed with the numbers. This testing was done on a RV-6. I have two people using an RV-8 and it appears as though they will be using a 85 pitch. The RV-6 and RV-6A are coming in with an 83 pitch very nicely. If you cannot get the above data, let me know and I will fax or mail to you. If there is something specific that you would like to know, give me a holler!! Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spinner Cut-out Method
From: n41va(at)Juno.com (VON L ALEXANDER)
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Well, I am a happy camper. I wrote what I hope is my last check to Vans for awhile when I picked up my Hartzell prop yesterday. I have it on the airplane, and am contemplating how to do the spinner cut-out for the prop. Are there any special techniqes you have come up with to get the pattern for the cutout accurately besides the draw-on-cardboard method? And finally, how do I determine how big to make the opening for the movement of the CS prop? Can I manually twist the prop blades to determine clearance on the spinner cut-out? I am hoping to make the cutout accurately enough to use the fiberglass cutout piece for the backing plate behind the blade. Is this a good idea or should I just use aluminum? Thanks again, you all have been a tremendous help for a first timer like me! Von Alexander RV-8 N41VA N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: SENSENICH FOR 360
Date: Dec 04, 1998
My apologies to everyone. My message to Jim was intended to him personally and I hit the reply button by mistake! Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: private pilot license question
DFaile(at)aol.com wrote: > > ***************************************************************************** > Complex and High performance sign off do not apply to homebuilts. > ***************************************************************************** Would you mind citing the FAR on this. I don't disbelieve you, I just want to be able to point it out to suspicious official types if I ever need to. Thanks in advance. PatK - RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: F-6111
--------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436 Ken Harrill wrote: > Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit? > What's the secret? Any help would be appreciated. > Ken, I had the exact same experience when I tried to install mine. I found that I had to twist the part a little here and there. The flange that fits the skin was about 90 deg. in the center and was modified to a less acute angle as it approached the top and the f605 bulkhead. I also had to trim it a little for length. As I was fitting one side my wife was fitting the other. We gave up thinking that there was no way these would fit our particular airframe and retired for the evening. The next morning things looked a little different and they fell into place. At one point the fit of the parts will be the best, draw a line on the inside of the skin where this point is. This way you have a reference line so each time you place the part in the inside of the skin it is in the same position. The parts only attach to the skin and nothing else. placement is not that critical but should be kept as close as possible to the position as stated in the plans. If you get them to far forward, they could cause interference problems later when you trim the skin for the sliding canopy. Keep at it and they will eventually fit. Don't get to frustrated, the f6111's are easy compared to the canopy. These are trial and error fitting stages of the fuselage. Don't give up! Gary Zilik 6A s/n 22993 Cowling and baffling stages. --------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436 name="zilik.vcf" filename="zilik.vcf" begin:vcard n:Zilik;Gary adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:zilik(at)bewellnet.com fn:Gary Zilik end:vcard --------------654AA429C79E07AD6A0A5436-- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Econome" <econome(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size
Date: Dec 04, 1998
What ever happened to the large number RV aircraft that went to an African air force. I wonder how they held up? How many crashed; how many are not airworthy; how many are still flying ? Does anyone know? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: "Scott \"Sky\" Smith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Handheld GPS
I have been using handheld lorans and GPS for years and been very happy with them. Visibility and stability in the aircraft has not been a problem. I have also used many panel mounted units including the King KLN89/90 and actually like the handhelds better. I have been using Magellan SkyStar units. Besides easier to use, the cost is cheaper for the handhelds and they can be mounted in a number of locations. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: F-6111
> Am I the only one who can't make the F-6111 fit? No. Mine sure didn't fit like the drawings. They are further forward. Some leave them out entirely but they do stiffen the skin. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: Spinner Cut-out Method
<< And finally, how do I determine how big to make the opening for the movement of the CS prop? Can I manually twist the prop blades to determine clearance on the spinner cut-out? You bet! Get some big monkey to help with this- you will need him! Watch also for clearance at the rear bulkhead. I am hoping to make the cutout accurately enough to use the fiberglass cutout piece for the backing plate behind the blade. Is this a good idea or should I just use aluminum? Thanks again, you all have been a tremendous help for a first timer like me! Use aluminum. It will stand up to the environment better. You can find some soft 050-063 at a local metal shop. Form the curves with a plastic hammer and a shot bag. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size
>My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated speed of 12,000 RPM. >Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at low speeds - approaches >from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4") to improve belt wear >problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't turn things off to conserve. >If items should be on, they are on. Gates Rubber Co. belts are recommended by B&C and supplied in all their kits . . . I'm not aware of any wear problems but I'll ask Bill about it when I see him this weekend. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ==========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: DAR Inspection?Taxes
When the FAA came out to inspect my Kfox it was a friendly a quick affair. He made a special trip from Baton Rouge to look at my plane. All of this cost me NOTHING! He issued my paperwork --asked me if I had used all AN Hardware--sat in the seat --signed off a friends IA paperwork --drank a coke and waved a hardy goodbye as he left in a cloud of dust. Darned if I did not find a silver bullet in the seat of my Kfox. Seriously, why bother with a DAR or whatever and pay him lots to do nothing when the FAA is supposed to do it for FREE--it is their JOB. When I got my A&P the FAA man in AZ , my wife was his granddaughters therapist, signed the ticket and said if I ever needed help call him. Most of these people are just as nice as can be and are not part of an Evil Empire. Use the EAA Tech. Counselors for your building inspections--depend on them to be your second set of eyes and recruit experienced builders in your area to give your project a look see also. The FAA and the DAR something other is there at the end for the paper work only and MONEY too (the DAR). Taxes--not all homebuilts come from a kit and you can register your RV as a Williams Wonder or whatever suits your fancy. Order yourself a roll of aluminum and send in the reciept from the plans and the roll of aluminum--just a thought. EPA, FAA, IRS etc are beginning to have to much power--I think I am going to move to Russia. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Gauges
These are nice gauges, but, how would one handle the prerequisite color markings for 'bad', 'good' and 'better'. Isn't that a requirement for all airplane instruments ?? Gert -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Panel GPS
> > My question is, can anyone tell me exactly what is the difference > >between a hand-held model of any make vs. a panel mount ? > >Other than size and BIG jump in price, what is the difference ? > >They seem to do the same job..... I have the Skyforce GPS (basically a handheld unit) and bought their panel mounting provision. A handheld will not directly talk to the NavAid autopilot so I have the coupler from NavAid to make them compatible. Not flying yet but this is an option between handheld and panel mount...I have both. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A prop spinner now in work ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Listers, As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30 while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size
cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com wrote: > > > My Delco CS-121 Alternator puts out around 70 amps, with a maximum rated speed of 12,000 RPM. > Originally I had a small (2.75"??) pulley to keep the charging rate up at low speeds - approaches > from high altitude and long taxi. I changed to a larger pulley (3.5 - 4") to improve belt wear > problems. Have had no problems with lack of electric power and I don't turn things off to conserve. > If items should be on, they are on. > Are you sure things are lined up properly? What kind of wear were you getting? I have the small pully and have had the same belt for 1000hrs now, don't even know what brand it is I got it at a autoparts store. Jerry Springer|RV-6 flying since 1989|Hillsboro,OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Jim Sears wrote: > > > Listers, > > As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the > manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the > gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30 > while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before > and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful > with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get > it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty. > > Jim Sears in KY > RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.) > >It's showing atmospheric pressure; goes lower when the engine's running & throttle is closed & pressure in manifold gets lower. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Jim, Your manifold pressure guage measures the same pressure as your altimeter, and in fact is nothing more than a fancy barometer. So if the outside air pressure is, say, 29.92, your mp guage should read about 30. When the engine is running there is actually a vacuum in your manifold, so you get a lower pressure reading. Regards, Doug Hormann-----Original Message----- From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 11:58 AM Subject: RV-List: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest > >Listers, > >As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the >manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the >gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30 >while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it before >and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful >with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get >it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty. > >Jim Sears in KY >RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lschuler(at)cellular.uscc.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator pulley size
Robert L. Nuckolls wrote: snip >Power input is equal to power ouput less losses in the device. >snip Oops. Shouldn't that be a "plus" rather than a "less"? Gotta have more goin' in than comes out due to the losses unless you discovered perpetual motion.... Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
The manifold pressure guage should read the same as the altimeter if the altitude is set to 0 feet. Rob Hickman RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Date: Dec 04, 1998
>manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the >gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30 >while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. >Jim Sears in KY >RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.) Jim: I think the MP is measeuring atmospheric pressure which is close to 30 in Hg each day. When you hook it up to the intake system it post to tell you about the vaccum that is in there. The ones you get at the auto store run backwards for some reason. Good luck & I wish I could be working with gauges. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Date: Dec 04, 1998
you can use this "feature" of your MP guage to get the local altimeter setting before starting the engine somewhere where ATIS is not available. > Jim Sears wrote: > > > > > > Listers, > > > > As I was working on my panel wiring today, my eyes glanced at the > > manifold pressure gauge. That prompted a question. Should the > > gauge show anything above zero when at rest? Mine is showing 30 > > while at rest and has nothing hooked to it, yet. I never noticed it > before > > and expect it came from the dealer that way. I've been very careful > > with the gauges; so, I know it hasn't been dropped or abused. I did get > > it from A/S which leads me to believe that it may be faulty. > > > > Jim Sears in KY > > RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel, one wire at a time.) > > > > > > It's showing atmospheric pressure; goes lower when the engine's running & > throttle is closed & pressure in manifold gets lower. > > Charlie > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Thanks to everyone who answered my question concerning the manifold pressure gauge. I guess I should have thought that one out a bit more. I'm too used to seeing things start at zero! Mine must be right on the money. I'll check it later when I check AWOS. Now, back to that wiring. :-( Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel and stuff.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arzflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 04, 1998
Subject: Re: F-6111
Put them way up forward. They seem to fit there pretty well. Mine did. I got the idea from others that did theirs that way. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest
> you can use this "feature" of your MP guage to get the local > altimeter setting before starting the engine somewhere where ATIS is not > available. Like, for example, if you are parked in some mountain meadow and don't know the field elevation?? :-) Oh, I see...you are pulling our legs. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure gauge - at rest


November 29, 1998 - December 04, 1998

RV-Archive.digest.vol-fy