RV-Archive.digest.vol-gb
December 19, 1998 - December 27, 1998
> >Screamer! It is not a conservative engine, but neither are the auto
> >conversions.
> >
> >The VO-435 is 260 hp at 3100 rpms. Therefore the 290 should be around
> >170
> >hp. Some adjustment for cam and induction I am sure, but still this is
> >a
> >high compression hot rod engine that would be as dependable as any
> >auto
> >conversion that I am aware of for alot less money than a 320 or 360.
> >
> Hmmm...
> This peaks my interest because I have considered building a super light
> RV-3 with maybe a mildly hoped up engine.
> I have never heard of this combination before.
>
> Doug... do you know how available these cylinders are and at what kind of
> prices?
>
> Is the comp. ratio 10.5 to 1 using standard parts?
>
> Come to think of it... what is a VO-435 and what airplanes was it used
> in?
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Listers,
Does anyone know how to get in touch with Jerry Isler? He wanted to buy my
right magneto when I got my Light Speed Engineering electronic ignition from
Klaus Savier. I have not been able to contact him now that I can send the
magneto to him. Please contact me directly as I don't have time to be on the
list any more. Thanks.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
the V O 435WAS A HELICOPTER ENGINE...
THE V IS FOR VERTICLE MOUNTING
ALSO A DRY SUMP ENGINE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wing rib to rear spar attach |
| From: | chriskelhand(at)Juno.com (Chris & Kellie D Hand) |
When I drilled the two inboard main ribs to the rear spar, I did not
drill all the way through the doubler plate for the middle hole since the
plans call for a LP4-3 pop rivet there. (noted as R7 in the plans on
drawing 14) I realized today as I was riveting the 8 inboard ribs to the
main and rear spars, that you have to drill through the doubler plate in
order to insert and pull the pop rivets.
It looks like these rivets are just long enough to extend into but not
all the way through the doubler plate before pulling them to leave the
shop head in the small gap between the plate and the spar web.
My question, for those that have done this is, do #30 relief holes in the
doubler plate allow the rivets to be installed properly, or does the
relief hole need to be slightly larger?
I thought maybe the tip wouldn't start expanding much until the rivet was
short enough to be out of the doubler plate hole. Just would like to
know what has worked for others before I do anything I might have trouble
reversing.
Thanks for the help!!
Chris Hand
RV6A, working on first wing
Seaside, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib to rear spar attach |
Chris & Kellie D Hand wrote:
>
>
> When I drilled the two inboard main ribs to the rear spar, I did not
> drill all the way through the doubler plate for the middle hole since the
> plans call for a LP4-3 pop rivet there. (noted as R7 in the plans on
> drawing 14) I realized today as I was riveting the 8 inboard ribs to the
> main and rear spars, that you have to drill through the doubler plate in
> order to insert and pull the pop rivets.
> It looks like these rivets are just long enough to extend into but not
> all the way through the doubler plate before pulling them to leave the
> shop head in the small gap between the plate and the spar web.
>
> My question, for those that have done this is, do #30 relief holes in the
> doubler plate allow the rivets to be installed properly, or does the
> relief hole need to be slightly larger?
>
> I thought maybe the tip wouldn't start expanding much until the rivet was
> short enough to be out of the doubler plate hole. Just would like to
> know what has worked for others before I do anything I might have trouble
> reversing.
>
> Thanks for the help!!
>
> Chris Hand
> RV6A, working on first wing
> Seaside, CA
>
>
Chris the LP 4-3 pop rivets do not attach to or hold the W607D doubler
plate, I drilled 3/16 holes in the doubler to allow installation and
expansion of the pop rivets. If I remember there is info on that in the
Frank Justice instructions.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6- A Setting up fusalage jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake Line Routing -6A |
I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit of
a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right side.
I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around, through, over, or
under the battery box. Plans show the line running straight across. I
checked the archives but could only find Steve Soule's question.
The answer is probably so obvious I will kick myself, but I am at the
point I need to get on with it. Could anyone out there please shed a bit
of light? I would appreciate it very much.
Thanks.
Wes Hays
RV6-A (Finally doing the inside stuff)
ICQ# 26126358
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
>Doug... do you know how available these cylinders are and at what kind of
>prices?
>
>Is the comp. ratio 10.5 to 1 using standard parts?
>
>Come to think of it... what is a VO-435 and what airplanes was it used
>in?
Scott,
As was mentioned here the VO-435 is a helicopter engine. It is my
understanding the VO-435 is 10.5 to 1 stock. The guy I bought the "lawn
dart" from said jugs were available and very cheap. ( seems like he said a
couple hundred bucks a hole!) It really was a nice running engine. It had
an Ellison TBI and in 200 hrs I never put a wrench on it.
I cruised it at 27-2800 rpms. It burned almost exactly the same amount of
fuel that my IO-320 does at 2500 rpms. I had a real short Prince prop and
turned it 3100 for take off. It had no balancer or metal ring and ran
smooth as silk at these RPM settings.
I was also told this was a hot setup for Airboats because of the power and
the cheap jugs. As an aside, the airplane had a very distinct sound.
Shortly after I got the airplane, I was at a local resturant and some one
came up to me and said, "who has that little red airplane that sounds pissed
off all the time."
Obviously, I have no engineering data to support this hybrid configuration.
Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro among
the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway) I did
lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much higher
confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling RV-8 tanks skins to bottom side of spar |
>I am ready to drill my first RV-8 tank skin to the bottom side of the
>spar, and have hit mental paralysis. What size should I drill the
>holes? I was all ready to drill them #19, but then saw that the
>instructions say to do the final drilling to #19 after riveting the
>tanks together. I'm confused. Do I drill them now or later?
>
>I see three options:
>
>1. drill #19 now, dimple the skins, install the platenuts and C/S the
>spar holes using the platenuts to guide the C/S pilot (as described
>in the instructions) - has anyone had problems with this?
>
>2. drill #30 now, use some scrap with a #30 hole clamped to the spar
>to hold the pilot. After assembling the tanks put them on and final
>drill to #19, install the platenuts and dimple the skin.
>
>3. Don't drill any holes in the spar now. Do option 1 after
>assembling the tanks.
>
>I am tempted to do option 1. Are there any pitfalls that I haven't
>thought of? Is there a better option?
Kevin,
I followed the procedure you outlined in option 2. I used a piece of
.125 scrap with a #30 pilot hole, and clamped it to the spar flange to
guide the countersink. I still had some chatter, most likely due to the
hole wallowing out somewhat after numerous iterations. It all came out
fine, however.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
top forward skin and instrument panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib to rear spar attach |
Chris & Kellie D Hand wrote:
>
**snip**
> When I drilled the two inboard main ribs to the rear spar, I did not
> drill all the way through the doubler plate for the middle hole since the
> plans call for a LP4-3 pop rivet there.
> My question, for those that have done this is, do #30 relief holes in the
> doubler plate allow the rivets to be installed properly, or does the
> relief hole need to be slightly larger?
**snip**
> Chris Hand
> RV6A, working on first wing
> Seaside, CA
>
Chris,
Drill through the doubler with a #30 from the rib side and then enlarge
the hole in the doubler to 3/16". You will see this problem again later
with two angles that attach two of the nose ribs. They will be drilled
the same way to allow for the pull-rivets that attach the ribs.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersink(was Drilling RV-8 tanks ) |
> I followed the procedure you outlined in option 2. I used a piece of
> .125 scrap with a #30 pilot hole, and clamped it to the spar flange to
> guide the countersink. I still had some chatter, most likely due to the
> hole wallowing out somewhat after numerous iterations. It all came out
> fine, however.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> top forward skin and instrument panel.
Brian,
When I use my airdrill to countersink I will occassionally experience
chatter. I recently started useing my rechargeable hand drill which
turns a lot slower with a single flute countersink and have not had any
chatter and it does a very nice job.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
A thought provoking post stated:
>
> ..... Most airport traffic patterns are left turn. That means that using the
> right tank (non floptube) on takeoff and landing insures that whatever
> fuel is in the right tank will roll inward toward the fuel pickup in a
> left turn.
It would seem to me, that in a coordinated turn (bubble centered), that
the centripital forces acting on both the airplane and the fuel in a
turn would cause the fuel to remain level; in a skidding turn (bubble
opposite to the turning radius) the fuel would be pushed outward; and in
a slipping turn (bubble inside turning radius) the fuel would indeed run
down hill.
Is my reasoning off base here?
martin shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Line Routing -6A |
>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside
>the cockpit of a -6A from the firewall bracket to the
>bulkhead union on the right side.
>I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around,
>through, over, or under the battery box. Plans show
>the line running straight across. I checked the archives
>but could only find Steve Soule's question.
Wes,
I routed my right brake line up and around the battery box after seeing
other people do it that way. There are two bolts there for the battery
box panel on the firewall that were perfect for some adel clamps to
secure at the top bends.
I put a picture up temporarily of this at:
http://www.aftershock.org/temp/brline.jpg
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
> A thought provoking post stated:
>
>>
>> ..... Most airport traffic patterns are left turn. That means that using the
>> right tank (non floptube) on takeoff and landing insures that whatever
>> fuel is in the right tank will roll inward toward the fuel pickup in a
>> left turn.
>
> It would seem to me, that in a coordinated turn (bubble centered), that
> the centripital forces acting on both the airplane and the fuel in a
> turn would cause the fuel to remain level; in a skidding turn (bubble
> opposite to the turning radius) the fuel would be pushed outward; and in
> a slipping turn (bubble inside turning radius) the fuel would indeed run
> down hill.
>
> Is my reasoning off base here?
>
> martin shorman
Martin,
You got it right. The biggest risk is probably intentional sideslips
on final to steepen the approach. You want to make sure you slip so
that you are feeding from the tank on the high wing.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
I ran mine from the bulhead fitting on the firewall down to the floor, over
to the battery box, up the side, over the top, down the other side, and
followed the floor around to the side.
Hope this helps..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: whays(at)Juno.com <whays(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 6:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Line Routing -6A
>
>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit of
>a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right side.
>
>I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around, through, over, or
>under the battery box. Plans show the line running straight across. I
>checked the archives but could only find Steve Soule's question.
>
>The answer is probably so obvious I will kick myself, but I am at the
>point I need to get on with it. Could anyone out there please shed a bit
>of light? I would appreciate it very much.
>
>Thanks.
>Wes Hays
>RV6-A (Finally doing the inside stuff)
>ICQ# 26126358
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Vacuum System Plumbing |
Anyone have a list of fittings or diagram of vacuum system plumbing? I need
help in getting from the vacuum regulator beaded tube to gyros and filter
fittings. Id like to run 3/8 OD Poly-Flo tubing wherever possible but I don
t see any transition fittings in the A/S catalog.
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
>You got it right. The biggest risk is probably intentional sideslips
>on final to steepen the approach. You want to make sure you slip so
>that you are feeding from the tank on the high wing.
>
>Take care,
>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks)
Good point. Also, what if you get tripped up by wake turbulence, or maybe some
sort of wind sheer. I'm thinking you're better off doing the takeoff and
landings with the inverted tank as long as you're not sucking fumes (which of
course we would never do ).
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (tanks done- Yeah!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
I'm sure there are a few ways to accomplish this, but I just ran mine over
the top of the battery box right at the firewall. I used a wide plastic
clip from an electronics supply house that sticks to the top of the battery
box. There is some padding around the tube at that point to keep it secure
and supported. When you need to get to the battery, just unclip the tube
and pull the box back.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit of
>a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right side.
>
>I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around, through, over, or
>under the battery box. Plans show the line running straight across. I
>checked the archives but could only find Steve Soule's question.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
On Fri, 18 Dec 1998 smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> >The Alternator belt seems to be the correct width for the Alt pully,
> >but
> >too wide for the Ring Gear. There is a light coating of " Rubber dust"
> >on and around the engine and You can see where the Ring Gear is eating
> >away at the upper sides of the belt. I'm using a Gates automotive
> >belt per Van's recomendation. Should I just let it "wear in" or
> >is there a better way?
I didn't have this problem with my RV-4 but I did have this problem when I
converted my Comanche from a generator to an alternator. The groove in
the flywheel was not for the same width belt as the pulley that came with
the alternator. It is possible to get pulleys for different width belts
but I was lazy and, since I had immediate access to a lathe, turned a new
pulley. That solved my problem.
If the belt doesn't fit properly in the pulley groove you will have rapid
wear. If the sides of the pulley are not chamfered at the same angle you
will get belt squirm and the belt will probably jump off the pulley at
some point. A belt whacking around in your cowl will probably do a number
on your baffling and possibly on the cowling itself.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender wires |
On Sat, 19 Dec 1998, Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> I'm using the standard senders, and am wondering about the ground connection.
I
> haven't quite decided whether to Proseal the senders on without the gaskets,
or
> use the gaskets with fuelube. Either way, I'd like to avoid running an extra
> ground wire if possible. Will there be enough electrical contact through the
> screws to get away with this? What have other people done here?
The only way to know for sure is to try it and verify that you are getting
good contact through the tank and airframe. A separate ground wire is
always your best bet.
> Now for the request- I haven't researched the aircraft wiring subject since I
> thought I was a long way from having to deal with it. I just realized that when
> I mount my inverted tank (hopefully never to be removed again), I won't be able
> to get to the sender to attach the wire(s). It would be incredibly helpful if
> someone could send me a small amount of approved type and size wire to attach
to
> the sender. All I would need is 2 ft if I don't use a ground wire, and 4 ft
if
> I do. This will get it to the wing root where I can splice it later. I'll be
> happy to pay for the wire and shipping, so if anyone can help me with this,
> e-mail me offline and I'll give you an address.
#22 guage Tefzel wire should do just fine. There is very little current
flowing through the wire so size is not that big an issue. Tefzel wire
is available from virtually all the avionics and airframe mail order
supply outfits.
The small wire should make it relatively easy to route through tight
spaces. The difficult part will be routing it so that there is no chance
for chafing.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender wires |
>#22 guage Tefzel wire should do just fine. There is very little current
>flowing through the wire so size is not that big an issue. Tefzel wire
>is available from virtually all the avionics and airframe mail order
>supply outfits.
Thanks to everyone that offered advice. I've decided to go with one wire and no
ground, and of course will check the resistance after prosealing in the sender.
I did get a volunteer to send me a couple feet of wire, so I don't need any
more.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (ailerons- NOT tanks anymore)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
My humble oppinion is that it makes no difference which tank if you have built
your tanks according to the plans.
Slips and skids will make no difference. If the fuel sloshes to the left side of
a tank. the weight will take the hose to the same location. If it sloshes to the
far right of a tank the weight of the flop tube will carry the hose over to it.
when I fly Knife edge in a Pitts, this is an extreme skid if it is a climbing
knife edge or an extreme slip if it is descending in knife edge. The basic
purpose of the flop tube is to position itself where the fuel is, if, 1. there
is sufficient fuel to pick up and 2. if the flop tube can make the required bend
to get to it. Even going right straight down, my Pitts doesn't miss a beat
unless I get under 5 to 5 &1/2 gallons. In figures with lots of movement and a
low fuel condition there could be a gulp of air once in a while but I hope RV's
are not going to be getting into figures that cause this much fuel sloshing.
Phil At Litchfield, IL RV6 parts and pieces
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
> Last week there was a discussion about which tank to put the flp tube in.
> The general consensous was that on the -6 it was best in the right tank to
> help offset the pilots weight with fuel when solo. In the tandem seaters
> no one came up with a preference.
>
> One lister said he put his in the right. Plans to take off on the left
> tank then switch to the right for aerobatics, leaving enough in the left to
> return. I believe this person is on the right track, that is, have a plan.
> After a bit of thought, it became apparent to me that the flop tube
> location should be determined by _your_ fuel management technique. For
> example, if you always take off on the left tank and switch to the right
> after level off, put the flop tube in the right tank. If you always take
> off on the left tank and leave it there for an hour, put the flop tube in
> the left tank, you will still be feeding from that tank when you get to
> your acro practice area.
>
> The bottom line, always manage your fuel the same way and the chances of
> running dry are minimized. The location of your flop tube should take
> advantage of your standard procedures to ensure you are always on the
> inverted tank when you enter the practice area and do your clearing turns
> (I always found a nice big, slow barrell roll to be an excellent clearing
> turn, safety check)
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> mounting tanks
> Fuselage on order
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Drill bit # size cross reference |
>I looked in the archives but could not find a listing of drill # size
>equivalents for a standard set of drill bits measured in 1/64th
>increments. I was able to find reference to a #12 bit being
>equivalent to a 3/16th bit. Does this mean that each number
>increment represents 1/64th of an inch since 12 x 1/64 = 3/16?
================== Drill Size versus Diameter ==================
Size Inch Size Inch Size Inch Size Inch
---- ------ ---- ------ ---- ------ ----- -----
80 .0135 32 .1160 M .2950 15/16 .9375
79 .0145 31 .1200 19/64 .2969 61/64 .9531
1/64 .0156 1/8 .1250 N .3020 31/32 .9688
78 .0160 30 .1285 5/16 .3125 63/64 .9844
77 .0180 29 .1360 O .3160
76 .0200 28 .1405 P .3230
75 .0210 9/64 .1406 21/64 .3281
74 .0225 27 .1440 Q .3320
73 .0240 26 .1470 R .3390
72 .0250 25 .1495 11/32 .3438
71 .0260 24 .1520 S .3480
70 .0280 23 .1540 T .3580
69 .0292 5/32 .1563 23/64 .3594
68 .0310 22 .1570 U .3680
1/32 .0313 21 .1590 3/8 .3750
67 .0320 20 .1610 V .3770
66 .0330 19 .1660 W .3860
65 .0350 18 .1695 25/64 .3906
64 .0360 11/64 .1719 X .3970
63 .0370 17 .1730 Y .4040
62 .0380 16 .1770 13/32 .4063
61 .0390 15 .1800 Z .4130
60 .0400 14 .1820 27/64 .4219
59 .0410 13 .1850 7/16 .4375
58 .0420 3/16 .1875 29/64 .4531
57 .0430 12 .1890 15/32 .4688
56 .0465 11 .1910 31/64 .4844
3/64 .0469 10 .1935 1/2 .5000
55 .0520 9 .1960 33/64 .5156
54 .0550 8 .1990 17/32 .5313
53 .0595 7 .2010 35/64 .5469
1/16 .0625 13/64 .2031 9/16 .5625
52 .0635 6 .2040 37/64 .5781
51 .0670 5 .2055 19/32 .5938
50 .0700 4 .2090 39/64 .6094
49 .0730 3 .2130 5/8 .6250
48 .0760 7/32 .2188 41/64 .6406
5/64 .0781 2 .2210 21/32 .6563
47 .0785 1 .2280 43/64 .6719
46 .0810 A .2340 11/16 .6875
45 .0820 15/64 .2344 45/64 .7031
44 .0860 B .2380 23/32 .7188
43 .0890 C .2420 47/64 .7344
42 .0935 D .2460 3/4 .7500
3/32 .0938 1/4 .2500 49/64 .7656
41 .0960 E .2500 25/32 .7813
40 .0980 F .2570 51/64 .7969
39 .0995 G .2610 26/32 .8125
38 .1015 17/64 .2656 53/64 .8281
37 .1040 H .2660 27/32 .8438
36 .1065 I .2720 55/64 .8594
7/64 .1094 J .2770 7/8 .8750
35 .1100 K .2810 57/64 .8906
34 .1110 9/32 .2813 29/32 .9063
33 .1130 L .2900 59/64 .9219
================================================================
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
At 05:39 AM 12/20/98 , you wrote:
>
>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit of
>a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right side.
Hays,
I routed the right brake line down to the floor then to the left side then
along the left side at the floor back to the spare then along the spare to
the bulkhead union on the right side.
This did not significantly increase the length of the brake line. Along
this routing there are already the left brake line and gas lines which must
be secured and protected from passenger feet, etc. Since there are no dips
and rises in the line, bleeding should be easy.
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Is there such a thing as "aircraft quality" electrical terminals or are the
ones I buy at Radio
Shack the same as those sold by Vans or Aierraft Spruce?
Scott A. Jordan
80331
mounting tanks
fuselage on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersink(was Drilling RV-8 tanks ) |
>> I followed the procedure you outlined in option 2. I used a piece of
>> .125 scrap with a #30 pilot hole, and clamped it to the spar flange to
>> guide the countersink. I still had some chatter, most likely due to the
>> hole wallowing out somewhat after numerous iterations. It all came out
>> fine, however.
>Brian,
>When I use my airdrill to countersink I will occassionally experience
>chatter.
What kind of countersinks are you using? At RAC and in my
own toolbox, I've pitched all the hardware store countersinks
(designed originally for wood) that have a multitude of cutting
edges. The aviation industry uses single flute cutters for
most hand-held applications. Check with your local tool suppliers
for Cleveland Twist Drill 1166-9302 uni-flute countersinks (this
is the 100-degree model) or its equivalent. I've used these in
my shop for years . . they're very smooth in thin sheet metal.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
<< I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit of
a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right side.
I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around, through, over, or
under the battery box. Plans show the line running straight across. >>
I ran mine over the battery box and attached to the firewall box (doghouse)
bottom using Adel clamps. I think the drawing detail showing straight across
routing of the line is a vestige of the floor mounted rudder pedals that
required the battery box base to stand up higher off the floor.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Chattering countersinks |
Sorry to repeat this but the number I quoted for the Cleveland
uni-flute was not their part number but a catalog number for
Rutland Tool Supply. Also, there's a second style of countersink that's
equally smooth . . .
>> I followed the procedure you outlined in option 2. I used a piece of
>> .125 scrap with a #30 pilot hole, and clamped it to the spar flange to
>> guide the countersink. I still had some chatter, most likely due to the
>> hole wallowing out somewhat after numerous iterations. It all came out
>> fine, however.
>When I use my airdrill to countersink I will occassionally experience
>chatter.
What kind of countersinks are you using? At RAC and in my
own toolbox, I've pitched all the hardware store countersinks
(designed originally for wood) that have a multitude of cutting
edges. The aviation industry uses single flute cutters for
most hand-held applications. Check with your local tool suppliers
for Cleveland Twist Drill uni-flute countersinks. I've used these in
my shop for years . . they're very smooth in thin sheet metal.
Anoher nice choice is Weldon high speed steel pilotless countersinks
which have the usual conical shape but replace the radial cutting
edge with a hole drilled normal to the face of the cone. The 100
degree part number is CSA-8. Either style is under $10 from most
tool suppliers.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
>Is there such a thing as "aircraft quality" electrical
>terminals or are the ones I buy at Radio Shack the
>same as those sold by Vans or Aircraft Spruce?
First, I'll suggest the term "aircraft quality" is
without definition but in answer to your question,
there's a major difference between auto-parts-store
versus environmentally qualified terminals recommended
for use on airplanes.
The major feature of a solderless terminal for single
wire termination is the inclusion of a metal liner
inside the plastic sleeve that is supposed to support
the insulation of a crimped wire. The premier terminal
maker (AMP Incorporated) offers both pre-insulated, diamond
grip (PIDG) and all plastic (PlastiGrip) terminals.
Virtually all major terminal manufacturers offer equivalent
parts.
Anyone who goes to the trouble to include this sleeve
has probably taken the time and effort to become a
qualified supplier under one or more of the military
specifications describing the better terminals. When in
doubt, look inside the wire end of the un-crimped
terminal . . . you should see two pieces of metal
inside the plastic insulator. One is the butt end of
the terminal where the stripped end of the wire will
go . . . the other is a thin metal liner inside the
insulator that will extend almost to the open end
of the plastic.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
I notched out the back of the the battery box not the firewall!!!!
----------
> From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Line Routing -6A
> Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 12:22 PM
>
>
> >I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside
> >the cockpit of a -6A from the firewall bracket to the
> >bulkhead union on the right side.
>
> >I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around,
> >through, over, or under the battery box. Plans show
> >the line running straight across. I checked the archives
> >but could only find Steve Soule's question.
>
> Wes,
>
> I routed my right brake line up and around the battery box after seeing
> other people do it that way. There are two bolts there for the battery
> box panel on the firewall that were perfect for some adel clamps to
> secure at the top bends.
>
> I put a picture up temporarily of this at:
>
> http://www.aftershock.org/temp/brline.jpg
>
>
> Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
> RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
> Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
> http://www.skybound.com/BARV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Joel Mclaughlin, Cary, N. C.
My E-mail reply was returned, please advise your correct E-mail address
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
>
>>You got it right. The biggest risk is probably intentional sideslips
>>on final to steepen the approach. You want to make sure you slip so
>>that you are feeding from the tank on the high wing.
>>
>>Take care,
>>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks)
>
>
> Good point. Also, what if you get tripped up by wake turbulence,
> or maybe some
> sort of wind sheer. I'm thinking you're better off doing the takeoff and
> landings with the inverted tank as long as you're not sucking fumes (which of
> course we would never do ).
>
> Russell Duffy
Hmm. Maybe, although if you hit something violent enough to give you
that much sideslip I would think fuel starvation would be the least
of your concerns. Anyway, I would hope that the engine wouldn't do
more than a short "burp" if it was just a short shot of air. Due to
the inherent directional stability of the plane, any sideslip should
be short lived unless the pilot puts in a bootful of rudder. I guess
if you hit wake turbulence at low very low altitude, and got into a
large bank angle, a large bootful of rudder might be in order to help
with the roll rate.
There was a report (on the RV-List if my memory hasn't failed) of a
flop tube hanging up and sucking air at about 1/2 tank. I will
probably use the "normal" tank for take-off and landing, and reserve
the flop tube for use at a reasonable altitude.
Everything is a compromise, and we all must make our own decisions on
the balance of risks.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Line Routing -6A |
I routed it over the battery box. There is probably a better way to do it.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside
the cockpit of
a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the
right side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fly by knight upholstry |
My e-mail was returned: could you please advise correct e-mail address?
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com (rv8a)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Horace W. Weeks" <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum System Plumbing |
Look at the Rapco,Inc. ad in any of the Kitplane magazines over the last
year or so. The January 99 issue has the ad on page 37. This ad shows a
drawing with the proper hookup and a picture of the components used in this
arrangement. They also include a kit material list that I found uses part
numbers very similar to those shown in a Gulf (Pacific) Coast Avionics
catalog. Note that p/n 306-4, 306-6 and 306-10 hose is used. This hose
should work better that poly-flo tubing in this application. Contact me at
74664.2105@compuserve if you need more data.
Ace Weeks
RV6 finishing details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
>Need some advice on circuit breakers. How about some pros and cons on
>using the switches with the circuit breakers all in one unit. What is the
>advantage of having the circuit breakers separate from the switches? Van's
>wiring diagram supplied with the electrical wiring kit shows circuit
>breaker type switches.
If one is into the classic acres-of-breakers style of yesteryear,
then there is some savings of labor assembling a breaker panel
to be realized by combining switches and breaker functions. The
downside is that you need to have bus bars on both sides of the
panel.
The fuse-block and switch architecture installs in a tiny fraction
of the time and dollars and keeps bus bars almost totally enclosed
in plastic.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pacific Aero vs Van's AmSafe seat belts |
Listers,
I'm looking for seat belt advice. Pacific Aero Harness makes a nice
seat belt system (5 point) for $125 per side, 3.25 lbs/side. The AmSafe
belts offered by Van are about $115 by the time you get a 5 point
system, weight unknown (archives mention 2lb in one place), and
according to the archives they have to be filed to make the 5th point
fit the latch system. Van's catalog says the crotch strap "IS NOT an
acrobatic (sic) strap."
Any comments on the suitability of the Pacific Aero vs AmSafe
system for aerobatics? (I haven't yet learned any aerobatics, but I'd
like to before I fly my RV-6A). Anybody have an accurate weight on
the AmSafe system?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
>>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside
>>the cockpit of a -6A from the firewall bracket to the
>>bulkhead union on the right side.
>I routed my right brake line up and around the battery box
It seem that routing over the battery box, if you leave a high spot, will
give you some problems in bleeding the brakes. Several Listers that
mentioned that solution haven't finished building yet but I was wondering if
they have had problems bleeding?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Terra radios/transponders. |
Was planing on using Thrimble's terra-com radio and transponder in my -4, but
had second thoughts now that Trimble is getting out of the avonics business.
Was at Aircraft Spruce here in Corona, dropping some major coin on gyros and
saw that they had a stack of the TRT 250D transponders on the bargin table for
$950 each including installation trays, no com-transreceivers yet, but they
might go on sale as well. Asked why, they said they were just long on stock.
Any updates on Thrimble's plans? If I were to buy these would there be anyone
around to honor the warranty, and more importantly, to service them a few
years down the road? Any ideas or comments on this, Even with the massive
panel on the -4, I would kinda like to put these little guys in!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Pacific Aero vs Van's AmSafe seat belts |
>
>I'm looking for seat belt advice. Pacific Aero Harness
>makes a nice seat belt system (5 point) for $125 per
>side, 3.25 lbs/side. The AmSafe belts offered by Van
>are about $115 by the time you get a 5 point system,
>weight unknown (archives mention 2lb in one place),...
I bought a set of Hooker Harnesses at Oshkosh which
are *really* nice, and not terribly heavy (ala the Simpson
seatbelts from Summit). The cost was only $150/set,
which made it almost a no-brainer when Van's cheapies
were $115. Huge color selection, super heavy duty.
The fifth point was an additional cost, but couldn't have
been that much.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
INSTALLED A TERRA ANV-COM PACKAGE IN MY SIX (720TX, 200TN AND TRI-NAV C) IN
MY RV6 IN 1991 - NOW 1300HRS. THE COM WAS TERRIBLE FROM THE START, WOULD
NOT WORK FRESH OUT OF THE BOX. TERRA REPLACED IT AFTER THE SECOND TRIP TO
THEIR SHOP. WORKED FINE FOR A SEVERAL YEARS THEN STARTED TO BREAK DOWN
AGAIN.
I REPLACED IT WITH A 760D, THE CURRENT GENERATION DIGITAL DISPLAY UNIT.
WRONG MOVE! BURNED UP AFTER FIRST HOUR OF OPERATION.
TERRA REPLACED THE DIGITAL FACEPLATE AND TUNER. IT WORKED FINE FOR ABOUT A
YEAR THEN IT STARTED TO BREAK DOWN ON TRANSMIT.
I HAD TO SEND THE UNIT TO TRIMBLE SINCE THEY HAD JUST TAKEN OVER FROM TERRA.
SUPRISE - THEY HAD NO TRAINED FOLKS TO WORK ON THESE UNITS. TOOK TWO MONTH
TO GET IT BACK. THEY DID NOT HAVE A LOANER EITHER. AFTER ALL THAT IT STILL
DID NOT WORK RIGHT. SENT IT BACK AGAIN A FEW MONTH LATER. THIS TIME
TURN-AROUND WAS FASTER AND A LOT OF PARTS WERE REPLACED. TO NO AVAIL, IT
STILL DOES NOT WORK RIGHT. I DO NOT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO WITH IT. YOU WANT
TO BUY IT CHEAP? THE NAV AND TRI-NAV HAVE BEEN TROUBLE FREE. SERVICE WAS
PROMPT WHEN TERRA STILL EXISTED BUT TRIMBLE HAS BEEN TOTALLY INEPT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System Plumbing |
Dear Dennis,
I am just finishing my vacuum system plumbing on my RV8. I spent a lot of
time looking for suitable materials and equipment because I waas not happy
with the offerings of AS etc. I discovered the "LEGRIS'' line of fluid
transmission equipment and materials. They are available at most suppliers
of Industrial fluid transmission supplies. Check the yellow pages of your
telephone book. I bought mine from AC Supply in Wisconsin where I live.
The headquarters of the LEGRIS company is in Arizona. They have branches
all over the US. If you cannot locate them Email me and I will supply you
with the address.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233 M
80124 running out of parts
----------
> From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: Vacuum System Plumbing
> Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 11:30 AM
>
>
> Anyone have a list of fittings or diagram of vacuum system plumbing? I
need
> help in getting from the vacuum regulator beaded tube to gyros and filter
> fittings. Id like to run 3/8 OD Poly-Flo tubing wherever possible but I
don
> t see any transition fittings in the A/S catalog.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
> Hampshire, IL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
Take it from me, avoid Terra radios, etc. at any cost. Poor, poor quality,
service, etc. etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
Some time back, about a year ago, right after I started building, I visited
a hanger where there was one RV6 almost ready to fly and two others just
starting construction. One of the items I noticed and asked about was a
table saw. Now I have one of these, but what I learned was that a hollow
ground plywood blade will cut aluminum angle really nice, straight and easy
as long as you don't feed the material any faster than you would though a
band saw. I said "Hummm" and next trip to the Black and Decker outlet store
I picked me up one of these blades. Has worked very well and I cut wood and
alum. both without changing blades.
Also, others have found the 1" belt sanders with circular wheel accessory to
be a big up. However, I've used a 4" belt sander with wheel and not
regretted it. It was a Christmas gift last year. The 4" belt make short
work of tapering the stiffeners for the empannage. My vote is for the 4"
sander and you can even raise the arm to vertical from Horizontal. Contact
me off list for more particulars.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
I hate to ask, What is a VO-435?
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O290?
>
>
>>
>>They can be bought for quite a bit less than an O-320 but there is one
>>hidden problem with this apparent cost savings.
>>
>>Because the O-290 is some what an orphan engine nowadays, some parts
>>(like pistons, rings, and valves) are quite expensive compared to even
>>the O-320 or 360 prices which can very quickly eat up all of the initial
>>savings if you have to do an overhaul.
>>If you buy one cheap that still had some good use left it would be a
>>good option for someone on a tight budget to get an RV-6(A) flying
>>(though I would keep the airplane as light as possible, which would kind
>>of go along with the low cost plan anyway). You can always upgrade to a
>>larger engine after flying for a few years.
>>
>
>
>Scott is right, O-290 cylinder parts are really expensive. There is an
>alternative.... VO-435 jugs will fit on a -290 case. These jugs are
>available and cheap I am told. This makes a REALLY HOT engine. 10.5 to 1
>compression, Hemi combustion chambers, and an engine that really likes to
>wind up. I had one of these on my last airplane, and it was a 3100 rpm
>Screamer! It is not a conservative engine, but neither are the auto
>conversions.
>
>The VO-435 is 260 hp at 3100 rpms. Therefore the 290 should be around 170
>hp. Some adjustment for cam and induction I am sure, but still this is a
>high compression hot rod engine that would be as dependable as any auto
>conversion that I am aware of for alot less money than a 320 or 360.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersinks |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
**snip**
>
> What kind of countersinks are you using? At RAC and in my
> own toolbox, I've pitched all the hardware store countersinks
> (designed originally for wood) that have a multitude of cutting
> edges. The aviation industry uses single flute cutters for
> most hand-held applications. Check with your local tool suppliers
> for Cleveland Twist Drill uni-flute countersinks. I've used these in
> my shop for years . . they're very smooth in thin sheet metal.
>
> Anoher nice choice is Weldon high speed steel pilotless countersinks
> which have the usual conical shape but replace the radial cutting
> edge with a hole drilled normal to the face of the cone. The 100
> degree part number is CSA-8. Either style is under $10 from most
> tool suppliers.
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < If you continue to do >
> < What you've always done >
> < You will continue to be >
> < What you've always been. >
> ================================
> <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>
Bob,
I use single flute "high hook" countersinks with 100 degree angle from
Avery's. I will give Cleveland's a whirl if I have to replace any.
Sorry for getting of subject, but I was reading revision 8 today and
picked up on some excellent ideas. I like the high/low sealed beam for
the landing/taxi light and also the system that keeps the filaments warm
to extend bulb life. There's no way I could have figured out how to do
these things without your publication. Thanks.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Tools-Alum cutting blades?? |
In years past Sears had an Alum. cutting blade for the 80in band saws that
made beautifull cuts and was intended for use at wood cutting speeds. I do not
see these in the stores anymore. Does anyone know a substitute. These blades,
I say again, were used at high wood cutting speeds and I only have one left.
Oh, on the subject of sanders, not to knock any other choices but I like the
1in combo tool with the 10in disc. The 1in belts goes all places in a
complicated cut and if carefull can work over the entire length not just on
the table. I have see some 2in ones of similar setup and they may be a good
compromise over the 4in vs 1in choice. I also have the 4in and rarely use it
on alum but I like it on wood better. I find the medium grit belts work great
on the alum. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Does any one have an email address or a webpage address for Hooker Custom
Harness?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
>I hate to ask, What is a VO-435?
Vertical, Opposed, 435 cubic inch Lycoming.
It is a 6 cylinder angle valve engine that was used in some helicopters. It
produced 260 hp at 31or 3200 rpms. The geometry of this engine is the same
as an O-290.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
It is in the RV Yellow Pages.
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 7:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hooker Harness
Does any one have an email address or a webpage address for Hooker Custom
Harness?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | RE: Tools-Alum cutting blades?? |
JR,
I found aluminum cutting bandsaw blades on the Sears Website. I
think it is WWW.sears.com. Placed the order right over the internet.
> [Ken Harrill]
>
>
>
> In years past Sears had an Alum. cutting blade for the 80in band saws
> that
> made beautifull cuts and was intended for use at wood cutting speeds.
> I do not
> see these in the stores anymore. Does anyone know a substitute. These
> blades,
> I say again, were used at high wood cutting speeds and I only have one
> left.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
Norman,
As found in Gary VanRemortel's RV Builders' Yeller Pages (an excellent
reference guide!)
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
HOOKER HARNESS 815-233-5478 SAFETY HARNESSES
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
>Does any one have an email address or a webpage address for Hooker Custom
>Harness?
>Thank-you,
>Norman Hunger
>nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersink(was Drilling RV-8 tanks ) |
>When I use my airdrill to countersink I will occassionally experience
>chatter. I recently started useing my rechargeable hand drill which
>turns a lot slower with a single flute countersink and have not had
>any
>chatter and it does a very nice job.
>
>Jerry Calvert
>
I recommend to all builders that they use a slow turning (600 RPM or so)
drill to do all countersinking regardless of what kind of cutters you are
using.
If you are doing a lot of countersinking, it helps prevent the cutter
from heating up so much, is probably easier on the cages bearings, and
you are much less likely to have any chatter problem, even with a multi
flute cutter.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro
>among
>the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway)
>I did
>lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much
>higher
>confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
>
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
Yes, I think all of the O-290 cranks are thin flanged which is a
consideration.
Thanks for the info.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tools-Alum cutting blades?? |
>In years past Sears had an Alum. cutting blade for the 80in band saws
>that
>made beautifull cuts and was intended for use at wood cutting speeds.
>I do not
>see these in the stores anymore. Does anyone know a substitute. These
>blades,
>I say again, were used at high wood cutting speeds and I only have one
>left.
>
Plain old wood cutting blades cut aluminum very nicely on a band saw.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
>I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit
>of
>a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right
>side. I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around,
>through, over, or
>under the battery box. Plans show the line running straight across. I
>checked the archives but could only find Steve Soule's question. The
>answer is probably so obvious I will kick myself, but I am at the
>point I need to get on with it. Could anyone out there please shed a
>bit
>of light? I would appreciate it very much.
>
>Thanks.
>Wes Hays RV6-A (Finally doing the inside stuff) ICQ# 26126358
-
The route that I prefer is to drill a hole at the front of each side of
the battery box base and then cut to the hole so that you have a notch.
You can then use the plastic grommets that come in the kit to protect the
brake line but with the hole notched you can still remove the battery box
base if you ever had a need to.
There is nothing wrong with running it up and over the box but this makes
for one more high point in the system where you could trap an air bubble,
and if you are using the aluminum line you cant see it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sewell" <rvflyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey everyone, have you heard about the RV-10 yet? Over the weekend,
a buddy of mine at the airport was telling me about it. He has a
good "inside" contact at Vans, and in the past his information has
come true.
Anyway, what he had to say was that it was going to be twin engine,
with the engines set in tandem (one pusher, one tractor), all
aluminum, stressed for +10G and -10Gs. It is suppose to have a
payload of about 800 pounds.
Two of the features that I find most interesting is in the weight saving
area and the vectored banking. Since the rear engine is
so close to the rudder and vertical stabiliser, the increased airflow
over it means the rudder and stabiliser are greatly reduced in size -
only about 15 inches high! This saves a lot of weight I'm told without
any sacrifications.
The vectored banking is really neat I think. Supposedly, the rear
engine is going to be mounted on a swivel on the turtle deck.
The swivel will be connected to the rudder, so when you apply
rudder pressure, the engine also turns. This directs the thrust
in the proper direction allowing you to make very fast turns.
I'm really excited about this and am actually upset I bought an RV8 now
that this is going to be available. But as we all know, Van is a great
designer and we should have expected this!
Oh, it is suppose to also have slotted flaps, from the RV-9, and
spoilers as well. Van has done one test flight so far and had
3800 FPM climb. My friend said Van is thinking about putting a
third engine on the belly of the craft, and allowing that to be
vectored up and down for better vertical pentration, but it would have
to use a smaller prop for clearence.
I was also told both (or maybe all 3) engines are Rotax. Something
about a problem between Vans and Lycomming and now Van has switched
to Rotax. That's good news I think, we can get 3 Rotaxes for the
price of on IO-360! Thank you Van!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Tim
---------------------------------------------------------
Hey Baby.... _|___/-\_| RV-8
| \-/ |
...come sit on my lap while I pull some G's!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | A special Ti-down deal for Christmas |
Hi RV builders and flyers.
If you consider this spam, I'm sorry. Please reply to me off list if you
don't like this, and I won't do it any more.
I've decided to offer a special deal on my Titanium Ti-downs for the next
couple of weeks (till the first of the year). I've ordered a new computer to
replace this old 33 mhz thing, and went over budget on the new one (it'll be
nice to have a 450 mhz puter with all the bells and whistles, tho).
I'm sure all my past customers will agree that the Ti-downs would be a
great gift for a flyer.
Anyway, here's the deal...I'm gonna knock $10 off the regular RV-List
price, and $20 off the price for my past customers. So here's the bottom line:
#5165-3 (Ti-downs, cheater bar, and cleanup pad)
$70.00 (first time buyers)
$60.00 (repeat customers)
#5165-3K (the "kit" includes a high quality bag and three 8' high quality ropes)
$80.00 (first time buyers)
$70.00 (repeat customers)
These prices include UPS ground shipping for RV-List customers, and if you'd
like 2nd day air delivery, add $5 to the prices...
I have 20 some sets in stock right now, and 6 bags available for the Kits.
I'll have more bags available in a couple of weeks, so if you would like the
kit right away, better order it asap.
Thanks for your time, and again, if you don't like this, I'm sorry...
Merry Christmas, fellow flyers...
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
airtime(at)proaxis.com (email)
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Brownsville, OR
Carrera Ultralight pilot now...
Future RV pilot...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)a1.com.au> |
Phew, that mulled Gluwhein sure has has got you, Tim...... an it's still a
week to go....
Happy ____________,(fill in appropriate celebration.....)
Graham Jones
Sunny,Rainy,Sunny,Windy Melbourne, Australia....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
I thought the new RV-10 was going to a three-engine jet transport that will
hold 300 passengers and compete with the new Boeing 737-700/800 series. Oh
sure, it takes about 30 years to build and requires a pretty big shop, but
I can't think of a better way for a start-up airline to build a fleet than
a Van's kit!
Have a good holiday, everyone!
Peter Christensen
RV-6A, still on the rudder and elevators (this is a distracting time of
year, isn't it)
Marietta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
Well, you spoiled it, Tim. They were trying to keep it a secret until
after Christmas, when test pilot S. Claus would have completed the
flight tests in a special 24 hour, round the world program. I guess, at
this point, that it wouldn't hurt to say that they plan to have the
production prototype done in time for further flight testing around
Easter by pilot E. Bunny. ;o)
PatK - RV-6A - also, at this stage, a fictional aircraft :(
Tim Sewell wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, have you heard about the RV-10 yet?
* description snipped *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
Many thanks to all who responded to my inquiry concerning the routing of
the brake lines.
I really appreciate the vast amout of knowledge out there. The collective
wisdom is just amazing. Is this list great or what?
Best wishes to all for Joyous Holiday Season and a Happy New Year.
Keep your airspeed up!!!
Wes Hays
N844WB (Reserved)
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
When an O-290 is used in a T-18 they fit a reinforcing plate behind
the flange. This plate is glued on with high strength epoxy and also
clamped with a bolt. I think they are available already machined from
Tom Brock. Note the O-290 was also sold to the miltary for use in
ground power units and a number of the ones flying are conversions.
The conversions can be spotted by the remnants of the bell housing
casting behind the drive flange. These have an even lighter flange (if
the crank is original) than the aircraft version and have had a number
of infight prop separations. The reinforcing is essential if you are
using these.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: O290?
Date: 21-12-98 01:13
>Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro
>among
>the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway)
>I did
>lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much
>higher
>confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
>
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
Yes, I think all of the O-290 cranks are thin flanged which is a
consideration.
Thanks for the info.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sewell" <rvflyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey, don't laugh! I know it is hard to believe, but think what else Van
has done! This is true, my source is VERY reliable. And maybe you know
something more then you let on because my source also told me the main
reason for the 2 or 3 engine RV (final engine count not finalized yet)
is to have all the engineering figured out and
the engine mounts made, thrust lines determined, etc., so that when
the new williams jet engine comes out (and it should only be about
$10,000) you can just swap out the Rotaxes and replaces them with the
new jet. The plan is to make upgrading very simple. The throttle
assemblies that will come with the RV-10 will NOT have a mixture lever
so that even the throttle wont need to be changed when upgrading to a
jet. That is also why the Rotax has been chosen, it has automatic
mixture compensation. Don't ask how I know these things, but I do and I
cannot reveal my source but I garuntee you it is the truth. Sure, Van
may make some minor changes before unveiling the kit, but the basic form
will be the same!
And I can tell you just one more thing, the rest I promised to keep
secret. Van is looking to build a new factory runway, made of concrete.
When we are all flying jet powered RVs, he is concerned about being able
to hold the annual fly-in. With jets, we could light the whole grass
strip on fire. If you don't believe this, all I can say is check the
Mid-West Concrete Company, ask them if any large orders from Oregon have
come in...... hmmmmmm...????
Tim
>
>I thought the new RV-10 was going to a three-engine jet transport that
will
>hold 300 passengers and compete with the new Boeing 737-700/800 series.
Oh
>sure, it takes about 30 years to build and requires a pretty big shop,
but
>I can't think of a better way for a start-up airline to build a fleet
than
>a Van's kit!
>
>Have a good holiday, everyone!
>
>Peter Christensen
>RV-6A, still on the rudder and elevators (this is a distracting time of
>year, isn't it)
>Marietta, GA
---------------------------------------------------------
Hey Baby.... _|___/-\_| RV-8
| \-/ |
...come sit on my lap while I pull some G's!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sewell" <rvflyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, I thought about keeping it secret out of respect for Van, but I
also wanted him to know how excited everyone would be about his new
design. That's why I posted it. I have no doubt that when he gets all
the positive responses to this incredible new design, he will in fact
have the production prototype ready by Easter. He has already done at
least one documented test flight!
Regards,
Tim
>
>Well, you spoiled it, Tim. They were trying to keep it a secret until
>after Christmas, when test pilot S. Claus would have completed the
>flight tests in a special 24 hour, round the world program. I guess,
at
>this point, that it wouldn't hurt to say that they plan to have the
>production prototype done in time for further flight testing around
>Easter by pilot E. Bunny. ;o)
>
>PatK - RV-6A - also, at this stage, a fictional aircraft :(
>
>Tim Sewell wrote:
>>
>> Hey everyone, have you heard about the RV-10 yet?
>
>* description snipped *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
My High Country exhaust (I bought from Van's) is a dull metal finish. After
seeing Sam's exhaust installation, it seems that his is pretty shiny.
Should they look like this? Is there something I need to do to mine?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/21/98 5:50:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rvflyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Hey everyone, have you heard about the RV-10 yet?
Wrong holiday, you're supposed to send this e-mail around Aprils Fools' Day,
not Christmas.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
listers A happy 1999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
<< It seem that routing over the battery box, if you leave a high spot, will
give you some problems in bleeding the brakes. Several Listers that
mentioned that solution haven't finished building yet but I was wondering if
they have had problems bleeding? >>
Not even a problem if you fill your brakes from the bottom up. I used a
pressurized canister full of MIL-H hydraulic fluid that one of the old airport
guys had. I used shuttle valves in my dual brake setup so I had to get some
fluid in above the valves to pop them over to the other side. But after I did
this I was able to pop them to one side, fill/purge from bottom, then pop them
to the other side and fill/purge from bottom. It took all of 15 minutes.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: (no subject) |
rudolph.........
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Subject: (no subject)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 10:11:15 EST
The Red Nose Reindeer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I don't know about Trimble's plans, although I'm curious myself, I do have
the Terra Nav/Com package with the Tri-Nav C indicator. I received them new
last January, and I've got 100 flight hours on them now. I haven't had any
problems and am very happy with them. The one time I had a question about the
operation of the Tri-Nav C indicator that wasn't covered in the manual, I
called them and they promptly and politely answered my question. Although, if
I had known then that Trimble was going to sell the line off, I might have
reconsidered buying something else.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>You got it right. The biggest risk is probably intentional sideslips
>on final to steepen the approach. You want to make sure you slip so
>that you are feeding from the tank on the high wing.
Ummmm.... don't you guys up there perform forward slips into the crosswind
(if any)? Shouldn't be fuel tank dependent (IMHO).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (reserved)
Assembling wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
Oops, Ken Brock.....
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re[2]: RV-List: O290?
Date: 21-12-98 19:11
When an O-290 is used in a T-18 they fit a reinforcing plate behind
the flange. This plate is glued on with high strength epoxy and also
clamped with a bolt. I think they are available already machined from
Ken Brock. Note the O-290 was also sold to the miltary for use in
ground power units and a number of the ones flying are conversions.
The conversions can be spotted by the remnants of the bell housing
casting behind the drive flange. These have an even lighter flange (if
the crank is original) than the aircraft version and have had a number
of infight prop separations. The reinforcing is essential if you are
using these.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: O290?
Date: 21-12-98 01:13
>Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro
>among
>the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway)
>I did
>lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much
>higher
>confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
>
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
Yes, I think all of the O-290 cranks are thin flanged which is a
consideration.
Thanks for the info.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Only the cranks for ground power supply units where thin flanged (O-290G)
the aviation cranks have a thick flange.
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 12:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O290?
>
>
>>Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro
>>among
>>the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway)
>>I did
>>lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much
>>higher
>>confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
>>
>>
>>Tailwinds,
>>Doug Rozendaal
>>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>>
>>
>Yes, I think all of the O-290 cranks are thin flanged which is a
>consideration.
>Thanks for the info.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersinks |
>I use single flute "high hook" countersinks with 100 degree angle from
>Avery's. I will give Cleveland's a whirl if I have to replace any.
Hmm . . . interesting. I'll have to look those over at OSH
next year. It's unusual to have a single flute do that . . .
>Sorry for getting of subject, but I was reading revision 8 today and
>picked up on some excellent ideas. I like the high/low sealed beam for
>the landing/taxi light and also the system that keeps the filaments warm
>to extend bulb life. There's no way I could have figured out how to do
>these things without your publication. Thanks.
I'm pleased that you're finding the materials useful! If you
come up with a neat installation for an automotive headlamp
in your airplane, let's photgraph it and document some drawings.
BTW, take a peek at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/4352.jpg
This is an especially interesting automotive head lamp . . . very
compact.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
ONLY if it is an O-290G crank. The O-290D(aviation) crank is ok.
-----Original Message-----
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com <Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 7:57 AM
Subject: Re[2]: RV-List: O290?
>
> When an O-290 is used in a T-18 they fit a reinforcing plate behind
> the flange. This plate is glued on with high strength epoxy and also
> clamped with a bolt. I think they are available already machined from
> Tom Brock. Note the O-290 was also sold to the miltary for use in
> ground power units and a number of the ones flying are conversions.
> The conversions can be spotted by the remnants of the bell housing
> casting behind the drive flange. These have an even lighter flange (if
> the crank is original) than the aircraft version and have had a number
> of infight prop separations. The reinforcing is essential if you are
> using these.
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: RV-List: O290?
>Author: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com at fdinet
>Date: 21-12-98 01:13
>
>
>>Also, I understand there is some concern about O-290 cranks and acro
>>among
>>the IAC. I never did any gyroscopic manuvers. (intentionally anyway)
>>I did
>>lots of rolling/looping type manuvers. All that said, I have much
>>higher
>>confidence in this setup than in any auto/PSRU combination.
>>
>>
>>Tailwinds,
>>Doug Rozendaal
>>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>>
>>
>Yes, I think all of the O-290 cranks are thin flanged which is a
>consideration.
>Thanks for the info.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
The prop flange reinforcement plates are sold in Spruce for about $64 if I
remember correctly, and are found on the same page as the prop extensions.
They do make one specific for each of the subject engines (O-290D/D2's and
O-290G's), and sell the required prop bolt bushings needed for the
additional thickness for about another $60 or so. The O-290G flanges are
even thinner than the O-290D/D2's.
I have an O-290G that I received with my -3 project that has all of the new
O-290D parts in boxes ready to install, and will be purchasing the prop
flange reinforcement when required. I am very interested in the VO-435
cylinders b/c I may have to have my cylinders reconditioned (haven't miked
them yet to be certain) and if I have to spend that $$$$, I would seriously
consider the VO-435 cylinders if I had more information about utilizing this
combination. I would really like to hear from anyone else on the list
flying or thinking about flying an O-290 engine and especially an O-290G.
By the way, El Reno aviation has a 6 page parts listing for the O-290G
engine if anyone cares. I can't remember their number, but it's in
trade-a-plane.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
Rob Reece
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716
(505) 835-5299 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 1998 8:40 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re[3]: RV-List: O290?
>
>
> Oops, Ken Brock.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
>ONLY if it is an O-290G crank. The O-290D(aviation) crank is ok.
My understanding is that "all" -290 cranks are suspect for "acro." This
would mean snaps & gyroscopic stuff etc. Properly performed looping and
rolling with a wood prop does not impose alot of stress on anything.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Finish |
Paul,
If memory serves me right, and sometimes it does. All of the high
country exhaust put out over the last several years are stainless. You dont
need to do anything with them.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling RV-8 tanks skins to bottom side of spar |
Hello,
Regarding procedure used for drilling tank bolt holes in the lower spar:
I am in middle of my left tank and am using what you refer to as option 2
(predrill #30). I think the plans say to install the platenuts as that
will guide the countersink cutter, a final step( please verify). I bought
the special cutter from Avery's for the tanks (#30 x 1/2 I think). I
believe Orndoff video follows this procedure(please verify).
However! I am nervous that with the addition of proseal to all the tank
parts that I will have probs with hole alignment. Anyone beyond this step
care to comment?
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
guys,
i just typed in hooker harness on my search engine, you would not believe
what i got back !!! ;-)
scott
left winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
>THE NAV AND TRI-NAV HAVE BEEN TROUBLE FREE. SERVICE WAS
>PROMPT WHEN TERRA STILL EXISTED BUT TRIMBLE HAS BEEN TOTALLY INEPT.
My experience has been just the opposite of yours. I had a problem with my
Tri-Nav-C and they repaired it and returned it within a week. My TX-760D
has worked without flaw from day one, well it did after I got the antenna
problems fixed. You would be amazed at how many radio problems are really
installation problems. (Actually I got two bad antennas in a row.)
Terra never went away. They just moved into Trimble's facility in Austin,
TX. The problem is how to bypass the Trimble folks and get to the Terra
folks directly. If you know how to do that, service is good. I poked
about until I found the contact number for the Trimble/Terra facility in
Austin. The phone number is 800.487.4662. Just be sure to ask for
technical support on Terra avionics. Support works fine if you do that.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Finish |
If they were all shipped stainless, then the metal etching gods must have
got a hold of mine, because it looks like someone bleached them. They are a
flat steel color with no shine, and are pretty rough to the touch.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
You well could be right. I have seen the G crank with cracks in the flange
while using the re-enforcement.
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: O290?
>
>
>>
>>ONLY if it is an O-290G crank. The O-290D(aviation) crank is ok.
>
>
>My understanding is that "all" -290 cranks are suspect for "acro." This
>would mean snaps & gyroscopic stuff etc. Properly performed looping and
>rolling with a wood prop does not impose alot of stress on anything.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Dang!!!
Van sure cut back on his plans this time. The original RV-10 was
supposed to be a sub-orbital stealth intercepter. The chief design goal
was to carry a special belly pod in which you had a choice of carrying
either a pair of cruise missles or an extra LOX tank which would allow
full orbital insertion and rendevous with the space station. The
civilian version would only accept the booster tank.
Dang - Dang - Dang budget cuts.
Actually I'm kind 'a hoping that when an RV-10 is introduced, it turns
out to be a 4 place.
Andy
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
Now you are in trouble. You will get offers that you will not believe!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker Harness
>
>guys,
>i just typed in hooker harness on my search engine, you would not believe
>what i got back !!! ;-)
>scott
>left winging it in tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | another countersink problem |
I have followed the chattering countersink problem with interest, but I have
a different problem. I have a single flute countersink from Avery, and when
cutting #40 countersinks, I often get a chip caught in the flute, which will
then score a circular ring around the hole. Ugly. My only solution has
been to carefully clean the flute before every hole, but this is time
consuming, and does not always work. Anyone ever had the problem or know
the causes? Gar Pessel, qb6, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling RV-8 tanks skins to bottom side of spar |
>However! I am nervous that with the addition of proseal to all the tank
>parts that I will have probs with hole alignment. Anyone beyond this step
>care to comment?
Hi Vince,
I just finished both tanks on my -8 kit Saturday. The instructions, and George
warn you not to put more than about 1/32" thickness of Proseal on the rib ends
when you attach the rear baffle. Despite the fact that I went through a full 2
quarts of sealer on my tanks(spare me the lecture), I took that advice seriously
and put only a very thin coat on the rib ends. When I installed the baffle, I
put a lot of pressure on the pop rivets as I set them through the Z brackets.
This will give you a good squish on the sealer and help reduce the chance of
misalignment. As soon as the baffle was installed and cleaned up, I used the
advice of another lister (thank you, whoever you were) and clecoed the tanks to
the spar with a layer of Saran wrap in between. All my mounting holes lined up
fine, and I can see some sealer being displaced by the spar toward the root end
of the tank. If not for the Saran wrap trick, I'd be fighting hardened sealer
later to get the tank to fit.
Two other notes on RV-8 tank construction:
If you leave the skin stiffeners square as they're shown on the plans, you will
need a thin bar to buck the rivets on the ribs next to the stiffeners. My best
choice of bars was too thick, but it was angled on one side. To make it work,
I
had to snip off a corner of the stiffeners that were in the way. It would have
been better if I had thought of that during the original installation of the
stiffeners.
When you install the baffle, you have to pop rivet through the Z brackets,
baffle, and rib ends. The holes on my Z brackets were perfectly aligned, and
there was no way to get any of my stock pop rivet pullers on the rivets. Quite
fortunately, I noticed this moments before mixing the sealer and starting the
assembly, or it could have been a disaster. I took an old pop rivet puller, and
ground off one side of the snout so that it would fit close enough to the angle
to get on the rivet. The grinding required was pretty severe, but amazingly,
the puller still worked fine.
The moral here is to think through every step and make sure it's all going to
work before you start smearing the goop around.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (ailerons)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I measured the width between the front of my tires and the rear and have a
half inch of toe in. Engine block is mounted no cyclnders pistons etc, no
wings or empanage on. Friend of mine tells me this is excessive. What say
u out there.
fuselage/rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I passed on the good news to an RV4 builder friend who called A/S this
morning (Monday, Dec 21.). They deny any knowledge of $950 Terra
transponders. Any advice on how to obtain one?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: MOOREWAR(at)aol.com <MOOREWAR(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 7:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Terra radios/transponders.
>
>Was at Aircraft Spruce here in Corona, dropping some major coin on gyros
and
>saw that they had a stack of the TRT 250D transponders on the bargin table
for
>$950 each including installation trays, no com-transreceivers yet, but they
>might go on sale as well. Asked why, they said they were just long on
stock.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersinks |
BOB OLDS -HIGH FOR APROACH-LOW FOR LANDING AND TAXI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop tube: which tank? |
>
> In a previous message, it was written:
>>
>>You got it right. The biggest risk is probably intentional sideslips
>>on final to steepen the approach. You want to make sure you slip so
>>that you are feeding from the tank on the high wing.
>
> Ummmm.... don't you guys up there perform forward slips into the crosswind
> (if any)? Shouldn't be fuel tank dependent (IMHO).
> Mike Thompson
Mike,
Have a look at the ball during a "forward" slip. It is off to the
side a bit and the same side force that moves the ball will move the
fuel in your tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
"forward" slip and a sideslip. If you've got rudder in to put the
ball off center, the relative wind will be off to the side, and you
will have a side force.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I measured the width between the front of my tires and the rear and have a
>half inch of toe in. Engine block is mounted no cyclnders pistons etc, no
>wings or empanage on. Friend of mine tells me this is excessive. What say
>u out there.
>
If you think about it the geometry of the swept rod gear RV's is complex.
The camber and sweep are greatly affected by weight on the gear. The
toe-in in the tail down position is greatly affected by the camber. If
there is a lot of camber the fuselage attitude greatly affects toe-in. I
think the only way to tell what you have is to check per Van's
instructions which is fuselage level and no weight on the gear and
checking against the rims. Under these conditions toe-in should be near
zero.
BTW I got results similar to yours when I checked by measuring tires
while the airplane was sitting on the gear in a three point attitude. I
never did go to the trouble to set-up for an accurate check.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
Test Pilot's Report
RV-13
PIC S. Clause
I. There are approximately two billion children
(persons under 18) in the world. However, since
Santa does not visit children of Muslim, Hindu,
Jewish or Buddhist religions, this reduces the workload
for Christmas night to 15% of the total, or 378 million
(according to the Population Reference Bureau). At an average
(census) rate of 3.5 children per household, that comes to
108 million homes, presuming that there is at least one good
child in each.
II. Santa has about 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to
the different time zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming
he travels east to west (which seems logical). This works out to
967.7 visits per second. This is to say that for each Christian
household with a good child, Santa has around 1/1000th of a second
to park the sleigh, hop out, jump down the chimney, fill the
stockings, Distribute the remaining presents under the tree, eat
whatever snacks have been left for him, get back up the chimney,
jump into the sleigh and get on to the next house. Assuming that
each of these 108 million stops is evenly distributed around the
earth (which, of course, we know to be false, but will accept for
the purposes of our calculations), we are now talking about 0.78
miles per household; a total trip of 75.5 million miles, not
counting bathroom stops or breaks. This means Santa's sleigh (RV 13) is
moving at 650 miles per second --- 3,000 times the speed of sound.
For purposes of comparison, the fastest man-made vehicle, the
Ulysses space probe, moves at a poky 27.4 miles per second, and a
conventional reindeer can run (at best) 15 miles per hour.
III. The payload of the sleigh (RV 13) adds another interesting element.
Assuming that each child gets nothing more than a medium sized Lego
set (two pounds), the sleigh is carrying over 500 thousand tons, not
counting Santa himself. On land, a conventional reindeer can pull
no more than 300 pounds. Even granting that the "flying" reindeer
could pull ten times the normal amount, the job can't be done with
eight or even nine of them --- Santa would need 360,000 of them.
This increases the payload, not counting the weight of the sleigh,
another 54,000 tons, or roughly seven times the weight of the Queen
Elizabeth (the ship, not the monarch).
IV. 600,000 tons travelling at 650 miles per second creates enormous
air resistance --- this would heat up the reindeer in thesame fashion as a
spacecraft re-entering the earth's atmosphere.
The lead pair of reindeer would absorb 14.3 quintillion joules of
energy per second each. In short, they would burst into flames
almost instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them and
creating deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer
team would be vaporized within 4.26 thousandths of a second, or
right about the time Santa reached the fifth house on his trip.
Not that it matters, however, since Santa, as a result of
accelerating from a dead stop to 650 m.p.s. in .001 seconds,
would be subjected to centrifugal forces of 17,500 g's. A 250
pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim) would be pinned to the
back of the sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force, instantly crushing
his bones and organs and reducing him to a quivering blob of
pink goo.
V. Therefore, if Santa did exist, he's dead now. Merry Christmas!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
In a message dated 12/21/98 11:37:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< i just typed in hooker harness on my search engine, you would not believe
what i got back !!! ;-) >>
OH YES WE WOULD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacksie31(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I 've had a TRT250 in my 4 for ten years. It's been in for repairs 4 times,
usually at $200 a crack. Last time it was with trimble, it took 6 weeks and
$300. I would not get another. Good Luck
Jacksie31@aol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chattering countersinks |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> Hmm . . . interesting. I'll have to look those over at OSH
> next year. It's unusual to have a single flute do that . . .
>
I bought the single flute for that very reason(no chatter), but I did
experience a little chatter back when I first started using them. I
contribute it to inexperience. I am satisfied with the Avery
countersinks an have no problems now, but if I had to replace them, I
would consider Cleveland's just to try something different. Cleveland
has good products too.
> I'm pleased that you're finding the materials useful! If you
> come up with a neat installation for an automotive headlamp
> in your airplane, let's photgraph it and document some drawings.
> BTW, take a peek at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/4352.jpg
>
> This is an especially interesting automotive head lamp . . . very
> compact.
>
The landing light is something I have been giving a lot of thought. I
think I could come up with something better for less $$ than what is
available out there. If I come up with something, I'll gladly share it.
I have a relative who owned a plastics company and has experience making
curve with plastic. I will see him Christmas and will get some ideas on
how to make the lenses. The compact lamp in the picture is nice. I
like the connector, do you know the brand?
Happy Holidays
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: another countersink problem |
Gar Pessel wrote:
>
>
> I have followed the chattering countersink problem with interest, but I have
> a different problem. I have a single flute countersink from Avery, and when
> cutting #40 countersinks, I often get a chip caught in the flute, which will
> then score a circular ring around the hole. Ugly. My only solution has
> been to carefully clean the flute before every hole, but this is time
> consuming, and does not always work. Anyone ever had the problem or know
> the causes? Gar Pessel, qb6, Fairbanks, AK
>
Gar,
Mine do that too. I had a piece of aluminum score the surface nest to a
hole too. Now I check the countersink hole for stuck shavings and clean
it out if necessary after each hole. Other than that, I like the
Avery's countersinks.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Gee, I didn't know it was April 1st yet!
Finn
Tim Sewell wrote:
> Hey everyone, have you heard about the RV-10 yet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: another countersink problem |
Gar,
FWIW, I lubricated the countersink by drilling it into a block of
parafin every 10 holes or so and never had any problems with chattering or
gouging.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
John Devlin
-6A First flight soon! Chevvy powered
-----Original Message-----
From: Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 5:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: another countersink problem
>
>I have followed the chattering countersink problem with interest, but I
have
>a different problem. I have a single flute countersink from Avery, and
when
>cutting #40 countersinks, I often get a chip caught in the flute, which
will
>then score a circular ring around the hole. Ugly. My only solution has
>been to carefully clean the flute before every hole, but this is time
>consuming, and does not always work. Anyone ever had the problem or know
>the causes? Gar Pessel, qb6, Fairbanks, AK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I've got Terras in my 6A, 107 hours and no problems... working great so far.
FWIW.
Walt N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Tim: April 1st is not for 3 more months! Nice try!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O290? (VO-435) |
> >I hate to ask, What is a VO-435?
>
> Vertical, Opposed, 435 cubic inch Lycoming.
>
> It is a 6 cylinder angle valve engine that was used in some helicopters. It
> produced 260 hp at 31or 3200 rpms. The geometry of this engine is the same
> as an O-290.
I did a little net surfing looking for further information or a source
for the VO-435 jugs. Found a web page on airboats FAQ that stated
airboats built prior to 1980 used aircraft engines, and those built
since used car engines. Those of you in the bayou, everglades, or
boundry water country - is there a potential source of cheap engines to
be had in the older air boats?
There were some VO-435s listed on the Exotic Aircraft hanger engine
pages, but I had no luck finding parts or references on the air boat
pages. Any body else try this?
martin shorman
(-10F in Iowa and wishing I was further south:)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
Listers,
I would be wary of routing a metal brake line anywhere near a battery
(the new RG batteries may be an exception). The acid fumes will corrode
the brake lines. In the mid 70s, Chrysler had a major car recall because
some genius routed the front brake lines underneath the battery. They
had major failures while the cars were still under warranty.
Charlie Kuss
RV8 installing tank brackets
Boca Raton, Fl.
> >I need some advice on routing the right brake line inside the cockpit
> >of
> >a -6A from the firewall bracket to the bulkhead union on the right
> >side. I just can't seem to see how the line is routed around,
> >through, over, or
> >under the battery box.
snipped
> The route that I prefer is to drill a hole at the front of each side of
> the battery box base and then cut to the hole so that you have a notch.
> You can then use the plastic grommets that come in the kit to protect the
> brake line but with the hole notched you can still remove the battery box
> base if you ever had a need to.
> There is nothing wrong with running it up and over the box but this makes
> for one more high point in the system where you could trap an air bubble,
> and if you are using the aluminum line you cant see it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
>Listers,
>I would be wary of routing a metal brake line anywhere near a battery
>(the new RG batteries may be an exception). The acid fumes will
>corrode
>the brake lines. In the mid 70s, Chrysler had a major car recall
>because
>some genius routed the front brake lines underneath the battery. They
>had major failures while the cars were still under warranty.
>
Good advice, but the standard battery for an RV-4, -6, or -6A would be an
entirely sealed type battery (recumbent gas, gel, etc.) because the
batter is installed in the cabin area, and is not in a sealed, vented
battery box. In this case I don't think it a factor.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harness |
Here is the address for HOOKER HARNESSES:
1322 S Harlem Ave., Suite B
Freeport, IL 61032
815/233-5478
Just talked to them and my harnesses are ready to ship. Color to coorrdinate
with my seats from JON.
If I can get an email address, will forward it.
Wally Hunt
RV-4, engine installation, canopy, cowl, fuel system and instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Graham, RV-10 Tim and others who enjoy grog:
Now mate, I am really confused: are you using glue for your RV? I have
been tempted to just glue instead of rivetting times!
My daddy's daddy tought me how to make GLUEHWEIN:
..use the all the left-over red wine, add sugar for your taste, lemon
peele, a stick of cinemon and perhaps a some cloves, and if you want to be
real fancy add a jigger of Angustora bitter. Warm the concotion and sipp hot.
... After you have sipped two or four glasses and there is no GLUEH (=glow,
and not to be mistaken with glue!) in the room and/or within you, add a
good jigger of rum to the concoction. After that, Do not drill, rivet or
meassure anything on your RV!
Yes, today is the longest night here in the Northern Hemisphere!
Wintery (will be -15 F fonight) Season Greetings!
>
>Phew, that mulled Gluwhein sure has has got you, Tim...... an it's still a
Lothar ||-6A||Lakewood/ Denver, CO ||skinning fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Upholstery Products |
Sam,
Will you be at OSH? I will be reviewing the options and making a purchase
decision there where I can see examples and talk to the folks.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, Vancouver, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Carol Knight <cknight(at)rmci.net>
Date: Saturday, December 19, 1998 10:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV Upholstery Products
>
>
>RV Builders
>
>I have been in the upholstery business for 26 years and have been making
>upholstery products for kitplanes for 14 years. I have interior kits
>available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
>other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
>manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
>request.
>
>For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (208)
>342-2602 or e-mail me at cknight(at)rmci.net. Photos available upon request.
>
>Sincerely,
>KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
>"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>
>Sam Knight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 Bulkhead F 608 too Short? |
| From: | Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
It seems that way. When I set the stringers on top of the bulkheads
(fuse bottom), sure, enough, the F 608 was about 3/16 too short.
Underneath, (fuse top) things were OK.
So, just like Sam Buchannan, I cut the bulkhead and added doubler plates
to span the gap created to raise the top (bottom). You can see all of
this at his GREAT web site. BTW, you can tell right away he is a
photographer.
Are we the only two? George and Becky didn't mentioning cutting the
bulkheads. Maybe he has an inverted camel back lower skin? Maybe 3/16
is no big deal?
Bill Watson
Fuse parts ready to take apart
RV6A Mountain View CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Finish |
<< My High Country exhaust (I bought from Van's) is a dull metal finish.
After
seeing Sam's exhaust installation, it seems that his is pretty shiny.
Should they look like this? Is there something I need to do to mine? >>
It sure looks pretty in pictures, but if you buff it out, it certainly won't
stay shiny after a few hours' use. Ask me how I know.
-GV
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Thought you would enjoy this |
>Test Pilot's Report
>RV-13
>PIC S. Clause
>
>I. There are approximately two billion children
>(persons under 18) in the world. However, since
>Santa does not visit children of Muslim, Hindu,
>Jewish or Buddhist religions, this reduces the workload
>for Christmas night to 15% of the total, or 378 million
>(according to the Population Reference Bureau). At an average
>(census) rate of 3.5 children per household, that comes to
>108 million homes, presuming that there is at least one good
>child in each.
>
>II. Santa has about 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to
>the different time zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming
>he travels east to west (which seems logical). This works out to
>967.7 visits per second. This is to say that for each Christian
>household with a good child, Santa has around 1/1000th of a second
>to park the sleigh, hop out, jump down the chimney, fill the
>stockings, Distribute the remaining presents under the tree, eat
>whatever snacks have been left for him, get back up the chimney,
>jump into the sleigh and get on to the next house. Assuming that
>each of these 108 million stops is evenly distributed around the
>earth (which, of course, we know to be false, but will accept for
>the purposes of our calculations), we are now talking about 0.78
>miles per household; a total trip of 75.5 million miles, not
>counting bathroom stops or breaks. This means Santa's sleigh (RV 13) is
>moving at 650 miles per second --- 3,000 times the speed of sound.
>For purposes of comparison, the fastest man-made vehicle, the
>Ulysses space probe, moves at a poky 27.4 miles per second, and a
>conventional reindeer can run (at best) 15 miles per hour.
>
>III. The payload of the sleigh (RV 13) adds another interesting element.
>Assuming that each child gets nothing more than a medium sized Lego
>set (two pounds), the sleigh is carrying over 500 thousand tons, not
>counting Santa himself. On land, a conventional reindeer can pull
>no more than 300 pounds. Even granting that the "flying" reindeer
>could pull ten times the normal amount, the job can't be done with
>eight or even nine of them --- Santa would need 360,000 of them.
>This increases the payload, not counting the weight of the sleigh,
>another 54,000 tons, or roughly seven times the weight of the Queen
>Elizabeth (the ship, not the monarch).
>
>IV. 600,000 tons travelling at 650 miles per second creates enormous
>air resistance --- this would heat up the reindeer in thesame fashion as a
>spacecraft re-entering the earth's atmosphere.
>The lead pair of reindeer would absorb 14.3 quintillion joules of
>energy per second each. In short, they would burst into flames
>almost instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them and
>creating deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer
>team would be vaporized within 4.26 thousandths of a second, or
>right about the time Santa reached the fifth house on his trip.
>Not that it matters, however, since Santa, as a result of
>accelerating from a dead stop to 650 m.p.s. in .001 seconds,
>would be subjected to centrifugal forces of 17,500 g's. A 250
>pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim) would be pinned to the
>back of the sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force, instantly crushing
>his bones and organs and reducing him to a quivering blob of
>pink goo.
>
>V. Therefore, if Santa did exist, he's dead now. Merry Christmas!
> Hope you aren't too disappointed that Santa is dead. But the truth's the
truth. Love Dad.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
Note:
Special Airworthiness Information Bulletin (SAIB) for RV-3/-3A is
available at:
http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/ace9910.htm
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | F-621A canopy rest |
Hello Listers,
I am drilling my F-621A to the instrument sub-panel. On both sides the
F-621 wants to angle or dip down toward the cockpit. I can easily hold it
horizontal (level) and drill it to the sub-panel. The plans don't show
whether it is horizontal (level) or not. How have you folks done it?
Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | another countersink problem |
Gar,
I have the same problem and the same solution.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----I have a single flute countersink
from Avery, and when
cutting #40 countersinks, I often get a chip caught in the
flute, which will
then score a circular ring around the hole. Ugly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I regret to add that every piece of Terra equipment I have: 760 radio,
200 Nav and Transponder all failed to work correctly. Transponder is
weak on receive even after being returned from Trimble, Radio has
terrible noise in tx channel, and VOR mode of 200N very weak and does
not drive TRI NAv indicator. Guess should hve gone with King, but lite
weight and small size clouded my judgement.
Ed
Arzflyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Take it from me, avoid Terra radios, etc. at any cost. Poor, poor quality,
> service, etc. etc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Joseph & listers,
One of the problems with my -6A is that the tires always wear on the
OUTSIDE edges. I too measured the difference between the front and rear
of the tires to see if the toe-in was correct with the load of a flyable
aircraft on them, and was surprised to see they were very slightly
toe-ed in.
After five years of flying N925RV (nearly 1200 hrs now), I've also
noted that the tire wear is significantly better if I use the brakes
less. I have also had ground observers note that the mains shimmied
slightly just before turning off the runnway (very slow) when the brakes
were being heavily applied. I suspect that this is due to the dynamic
loading on the mains that is causing them to bend rearward, with a
resultant excessive TOE OUT of the wheels, and hence the tire wear.
So as an experiment, I'd like to set the brakes, pull the aircraft
forward with a car, and with that tension still applied, again measure
the tire toe in or toe out. I suspect that I will find toe out. Has
anybody else tried this?
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: joseph.wiza [SMTP:planejoe(at)flnet.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 1998 5:07 PM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: Toe In
>
>
> I measured the width between the front of my tires and the rear and
> have a
> half inch of toe in. Engine block is mounted no cyclnders pistons etc,
> no
> wings or empanage on. Friend of mine tells me this is excessive. What
> say
> u out there.
>
> fuselage/rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
OK LARRY
SO WHAT DOES " X " EQUAL TO ??
scott
left winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
If you are worried about corrosion, why not slip a Teflon shrink tube over
the line before flaring in the area needing protection?
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Line Routing -6A
>
>
>>Listers,
>>I would be wary of routing a metal brake line anywhere near a battery
>>(the new RG batteries may be an exception). The acid fumes will
>>corrode
>>the brake lines. In the mid 70s, Chrysler had a major car recall
>>because
>>some genius routed the front brake lines underneath the battery. They
>>had major failures while the cars were still under warranty.
>>
>Good advice, but the standard battery for an RV-4, -6, or -6A would be an
>entirely sealed type battery (recumbent gas, gel, etc.) because the
>batter is installed in the cabin area, and is not in a sealed, vented
>battery box. In this case I don't think it a factor.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
what I did was to go over the battery gos and use several adel clamps to hold
the line away from the vertical angle on the firewall, It worked for me,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
This data is incomplete. Contact Van's for the more recent CN-2-I and CN-2-II.
Finn
Doug Gray wrote:
>
> Note:
>
> Special Airworthiness Information Bulletin (SAIB) for RV-3/-3A is
> available at:
>
> http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/ace9910.htm
>
> Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "georger" <georger(at)mail.bip.net> |
Finally after 7 years of building and a month of bad weather, RV-6 #21371
flew today! (December 19th).
The flight lasted for about 25 minutes and everything worked just fine :-)
SE-XPI has a new O-320 from Van's and a 68x75 Felix propeller,
empty weight is 1012 lbs painted, no gyros.
IAS was 120 kt with 2200 rpm and 22", but without gear leg fairings
or wheel pants.
George Reinikainen
RV-6 SE-XPI Sweden
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
> This data is incomplete. Contact Van's for the more recent CN-2-I
> and CN-2-II.
> Finn
Finn-
How do you feel about the news in the RVator about the possible QB wing kits
that may be offered from vans for the -3? I personally am not interested
because I am performing all of the CN-I and CN-II's mods now and feel that I
will have a safe wing when completed. What's your feelings towards your
wings after doing the mods? Just curious.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45
Socorro, NM
Rob Reece
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716
(505) 835-5299 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
Hi Listers,
I had a problem with my Terra transponder after initial installation. I
called Terra to inquire if I should send the unit back to Van's or to
them. They suggested I send it to them to avoid double mailing. I
mailed it to them on Friday and it was returned in mail the following
Friday...excellent service on warranty with no charge.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Engine started!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
>
>Finally after 7 years of building and a month of bad weather, RV-6 #21371
>flew today! (December 19th).
Congratulation George!! What a nice X-mas present you cercainly deserve. I
hope our current cold air mass does not make it to Sweden so you can move
thar joy stick and keep flying.
Lothar ||-6A||Lakewood/ Denver, CO ||skinning fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I've been following this thread with great interest. Although some
people have had good luck with Terra, the trend shows poor quality
control.
I was planning to use Terra COMM and TRNSPDR in my VFR RV-8, I guess
I'll have to write another letter to Santa.
This list is a tremendous benefit to all RVers!
Merry Christmas all!
Sylvain Duford
RV-8, Right Wing Skins...
Bellevue, WA
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
>
>I regret to add that every piece of Terra equipment I have: 760 radio,
>200 Nav and Transponder all failed to work correctly. Transponder is
>weak on receive even after being returned from Trimble,
This is almost always an antenna and/or feedline problem. What kind of
coax and how much are you using between the antenna and radio? This is a
place where you want to get the best coax you can buy. The standard RG-58
coax that you use for your comm and nav antenna is woefully inadequate for
use with a transponder. Get the good teflon-insulated MIL-spec stuff. It
is more expensive but it works *much* better.
Do you have the transponder antenna on the belly between the gear legs? If
so, you are going to suffer from low sensitivity and poor performance when
the gear is between the RADAR ground station and the transponder antenna.
I regularly "disappear" from Stockton Approach's RADAR at one point in my
flights from Cameron Park to Livermore. From what I can tell it occurs
when the gear leg is between the tranponder antenna and the ground station.
This happened with the Narco AT-150 transponder I had before I installed
the Terra TRT-250D.
>Radio has terrible noise in tx channel,
I have had this problem with a number of aircraft and different radios.
The problem has always been cockpit noise pickup overdriving the radio's
internal microphone amplifier. Get an Oregon Aero "Mic Muff" and reduce
the mic gain if you can. The Terra comm has an automatic gain control but,
in my case, I can adjust the mic level output of the intercom. Try
reducing the mic level at the intercom and see if that helps too.
>and VOR mode of 200N very weak and does not drive TRI NAv indicator.
I had that problem too. There is an adjustment on the side of the Tri-Nav
that sets the VOR/LOC input signal level. I increased that on mine and the
Tri-Nav worked perfectly on both VOR and localizer.
>Guess should hve gone with King, but lite
>weight and small size clouded my judgement.
Well I let the shop doing the radios for my Yak talk me into using a KX-155
instead of the Terra radios I asked for. The KX-155 comm has a number of
problems in the comm that, for the nonce, keep me from using it. I suppose
I could blame the KX-155 but I suspect the installatipon so I think it
unfair to blame the radio before I troubleshoot things further.
The key point being that, with proper installation and adjustment, most
radios work just fine regardless of the manufacturer. Sure there is the
occasional lemon but that is the exception rather than the rule in my
experience.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Hooker Harness Pictures Wanted |
Does any one know where there might be a picture of a Hooker Harness set up
on the net? And I do mean the kind for aircraft.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
----------
There is an elegant solution to the brake line routing problem in a dual
brake installation that doesn't require routing a line accross the battery
area. Put in a F6122 bracket on both sides, and move the VA 118 hose set
up for the right pedal to the right side.
Scott Sawby N431SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Searching for Austin Tinklers email address. Anybody got it?
Norman
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
closing that line out or selling it off?
---Will Cretsinger wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I had a problem with my Terra transponder after initial
installation. I
> called Terra to inquire if I should send the unit back to Van's or to
> them. They suggested I send it to them to avoid double mailing. I
> mailed it to them on Friday and it was returned in mail the following
> Friday...excellent service on warranty with no charge.
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
> -6A Engine started!
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
In a message dated 12/22/98 10:02:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: First flight
Date: 12/22/98 10:02:16 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: lothark(at)worldnet.att.net (Lothar Klingmuller)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Finally after 7 years of building and a month of bad weather, RV-6 #21371
>flew today! (December 19th).
Congratulation George!! What a nice X-mas present you cercainly deserve. I
hope our current cold air mass does not make it to Sweden so you can move
thar joy stick and keep flying.
Lothar ||-6A||Lakewood/ Denver, CO ||skinning fuselage||
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Jet Hot Coatings |
Happy Holidays everyone,
After watching this discussion on exhaust finishes, I have a question.
Does anyone have any experience with "Jet Hot Coating" on stainless exhausts?
I've seen it used on quite a few drag cars, and was thinking about it for my RV.
Thanks in advance,
Laird RV-6 22923 (painting wings this week)
SoCal
>My High Country exhaust (I bought from Van's) is a dull metal finish.
Paul Besing<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
>
>
>Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
>closing that line out or selling it off?
No word yet (that I have heard).
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
A quick question while everyone not flying is contemplating
polishing their High Country Exhaust system......
What do you use the 6 large worm clamps for that come with
the exhaust kit? Are they used to clamp the slip joints?
I must have missed something in the instructions.
Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 - Finishing up Engine Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> This is almost always an antenna and/or feedline problem. What kind of
> coax and how much are you using between the antenna and radio? This is a
> place where you want to get the best coax you can buy. The standard RG-58
> coax that you use for your comm and nav antenna is woefully inadequate for
> use with a transponder. Get the good teflon-insulated MIL-spec stuff. It
> is more expensive but it works *much* better.
>
> Do you have the transponder antenna on the belly between the gear legs? If
> so, you are going to suffer from low sensitivity and poor performance when
> the gear is between the RADAR ground station and the transponder antenna.
> I regularly "disappear" from Stockton Approach's RADAR at one point in my
Brian makes some good points. I have a panel full of Terra's and for the
last 450+ hours they have worked flawlessly. I used the expensive
MIL-spec coax for all the antennas. Transponder is on the belly as far
forward as the battery box allows. I have had no complaints from any ATC
unit. When it came time to install my radios I decided to let an expert
do the wiring. I had six boxes of really expensive stuff just waiting
for me to make a mistake and let the smoke out.
I do hope that Terra will still exist in some form as I love the look,
size and operation of my radios.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
> > Transponder is weak on receive
[snip]
> The standard RG-58
> coax that you use for your comm and nav antenna is woefully inadequate for
> use with a transponder. Get the good teflon-insulated MIL-spec stuff. It
> is more expensive but it works *much* better.
My King transponder manual specifies RG-142, not RG-58. I checked
around and was told that it is lower loss, but that for short runs the
RG-58 would be fine. I went ahead and got the RG-142 anyway just so it
would be right. Chief Aircraft has it for $1.95/ft.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted RV-6A Fuselage Jig Charlotte NC area |
Rent, borrow or buy Rv-6A fuselage jig Charlotte area. Needed early 99.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
> Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
> closing that line out or selling it off?
The current issue of GA News and flyer has a good editorial piece about
this. To see it on line, go to , and click on
"Articles". Then enter "Trimble" in the search box.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
> The fuse-block and switch architecture installs in a tiny fraction
> of the time and dollars and keeps bus bars almost totally enclosed
> in plastic.
I went with Bob N.'s recommendation on this for some of the stuff in my
panel. One caveat however is that I can only find the blade fuses down
to 3A. I have all my avionics on separate fuses, and some (Mkr and
intercom for example) specify 1 or 2 amp fuses. I'm not really worried,
I'm sure the 3A will protect them ok, but was curious what your
comments were on this.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
>
>>
>>
>>Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
>>closing that line out or selling it off?
>
>No word yet (that I have heard).
I don't have the latest issue of GA Flyer in front of me, but they are
reporting that Trimble has stated Terra is still in business, that they have
no intention of stopping the line cold, and that the division is doing
poorly and they intend to sell it off (good salesmanship, huh?).
Rob Acker (RV-6Q finally on gear).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Have been following the Terra radio thread with interest. There have been
many references to RG-58 , RG 142 etc.
Note that RG 58 has a solid inner conductor which with the vibrations found
in an airplane will tend to break easier than a stranded inner conductor.
RG58A has the stranded inner conductor (19 strands of .0071 copper wire) I
have used this in my RV6 for almost six years. For the short runs we
require RG58A is fine. I also agree with Brian L. that many of our
transmission/reception problems are installation related. One of the most
common being poor grounds.
Buy good quality connectors. I don't like the ones sold by the radio
stores found in most malls.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: RV-4 Fuselage Jig |
Looking for an RV-4 fuselage jig in Northern or Central California.
Will buy, rent, lease, or sell kidney for same. First born available
if you throw in a good drill press.
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I just spoke with Terra and was advised that they have six suitors interested in
buying their General Aviation line. They say that a decision is hoped for in
the first weeks of January. They expect the entire product line, plus servicing
and parts, will be sold as a single entity. Meanwhile they are continuing to
make units as fast as they can be sold.
Re all the complaints about Terra on the List recently, I can only say that my
experience with Terra, over the 12 years I have had their equipment, is
excellent. I have had only one repair, which was handled quickly and cheaply.
In fact, they updated my unit with a few improvements while it was in for
service, and didn't charge anything for the upgrades.
Bill Thomas
-6A Fuselage
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
> >closing that line out or selling it off?
>
> No word yet (that I have heard).
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
>
>> The fuse-block and switch architecture installs in a tiny fraction
>> of the time and dollars and keeps bus bars almost totally enclosed
>> in plastic.
>
>I went with Bob N.'s recommendation on this for some of the stuff in my
>panel. One caveat however is that I can only find the blade fuses down
>to 3A. I have all my avionics on separate fuses, and some (Mkr and
>intercom for example) specify 1 or 2 amp fuses. I'm not really worried,
>I'm sure the 3A will protect them ok, but was curious what your
>comments were on this.
I can get you smaller fuses but they're mechanically more fragile
than 3A . . . since we're really protecting wire, 3A is quite
adequate for 22AWG . . . the smallest practical size for power
distribution. I'll check my sources and see what it would cost
to lay in a stock of smaller fuses. Watch the Circuit Protective
Devices page of our website.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Fitting up the rudder pedals and cables on my -8A (ground adjustable), the
cables sag. Are they only supposed to be snug when I actually place my
feet on them or should they be relativly snug all the time? For some
reason I thought the master cylinders would hold the rudder pedals closer
to the firewall and thus pull the cables snug. They sag by at least an
inch maybe two.
Bill Pagan
scratchin the ol' noggin
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
In a message dated 12/21/98 7:47:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net writes:
<< I would be wary of routing a metal brake line anywhere near a battery
(the new RG batteries may be an exception). The acid fumes will corrode
the brake lines. >>
If you feel that you "must" run a metal brake line near a battery, I have the
following suggestion. There is some stuff that can be bought in nearly any
hardware store. It is a semi-liquid that is made to dip the handles of tools
into. It provides a plastic coating that insulates the handles on tools.
This
coating is not adversely affected by acid, much less acid fumes. It can be
painted onto a clean, grease free brake line, protecting it from corrosion.
If one were concerned about the condition of the line, it can be peeled off
and re-applied as required. And, it is cheap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I must admit that I let my RVator subscription expire (: so I haven't see the
news you mention.
With the time I've put into my wings (integral tanks), I'm going to stick with
my Type I CN-2-I mod'd wings. Also I doubt I'll be pulling more than 5 Gs
without blacking out.
Finn
"Robert B. Reece" wrote:
>
> > This data is incomplete. Contact Van's for the more recent CN-2-I
> > and CN-2-II.
> > Finn
>
> Finn-
>
> How do you feel about the news in the RVator about the possible QB wing kits
> that may be offered from vans for the -3? I personally am not interested
> because I am performing all of the CN-I and CN-II's mods now and feel that I
> will have a safe wing when completed. What's your feelings towards your
> wings after doing the mods? Just curious.
>
> Rob Reece
> RV-3 SN 45
> Socorro, NM
> Rob Reece
>
> Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
> c/o EMRTC
> NM Tech Mail Station
> Socorro, NM 87801
>
> (505) 835-5716
> (505) 835-5299 fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Hot Coatings |
In a message dated 12/22/98 11:05:17 AM Pacific Standard Time,
owens(at)Aerovironment.com writes:
<< I've seen it used on quite a few drag cars, and was thinking about it for
my RV. >>
I would talk to a "drag" car person. I am quite sure that this process would
work "just fine" on an RV "if" the process holds up well on a dragster. They
are exposed to alot of extremes also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
I know at least one person that was laid off and has another job. He was a
good engineer as well. That will tell you something about the plans. Cirrus
was planning on using the avionics and has had to go to another vendor.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Terra radios/transponders.
>
>>
>>
>>Is there any word what will happen to the Terra line? Is Trimble just
>>closing that line out or selling it off?
>
>No word yet (that I have heard).
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Jet Hot Coatings |
Hello, what is the advantage of using this coating inside the exaust? Is it
like a liquid ceramic that hardens? I have seen a guy do that to his Harley
pipes. Also, up at the local speed shop I saw some kind of fiberglass tape
that was for wrapping and clamping on the outside of headers. Would this
have any advantage on an RV? And what type of weight are we talking for a
complete installation?
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Norman Hunger
RV6A riviting skins on the upside down fuselage.
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Firesleeve Clamps |
Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps? There
is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but I
can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like pliers and
vises.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP Engine Plumbing
Pacer N8025D went on sale yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
Randall,
The fuse or cb protects the wire, not the equipment. As long as your wire
is sized to handle at least 3A without overheating, you are fine.
In any case, I think I have blade fuses rated less than 3A, but will have to
check to refresh my memory.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST within a month or so of flying. I hope.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Circuit Breakers
>
>> The fuse-block and switch architecture installs in a tiny fraction
>> of the time and dollars and keeps bus bars almost totally enclosed
>> in plastic.
>
>I went with Bob N.'s recommendation on this for some of the stuff in my
>panel. One caveat however is that I can only find the blade fuses down
>to 3A. I have all my avionics on separate fuses, and some (Mkr and
>intercom for example) specify 1 or 2 amp fuses. I'm not really worried,
>I'm sure the 3A will protect them ok, but was curious what your
>comments were on this.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O290? (VO-435) |
Martin Shorman wrote:
>
>>
> There were some VO-435s listed on the Exotic Aircraft hanger engine
> pages, but I had no luck finding parts or references on the air boat
> pages. Any body else try this?
>
Martin; We have a member in our chapter who sold tooling equipment to
Lycomimg 10+ years ago. He said airboat engines were 1/2 the price of
aircraft engines at that time. Last spring I checked out airboat web
sites and sent several e-mails. The President of the American Airboat
Assn. (I think thats what it was called) wrote back to say that aircraft
engines are not used because of the cost, and he could not refer me to
any overhaul or maintenance shop that could help. At that point I gave
up.
Marty Sailer
RV-6AQ Installing Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "warren wassom" <wcwdds(at)email.msn.com> |
OK ............... I thought my table was perfectly level and flat, but upon
checking, it appears I have about 1/16th inch wash in one and 1/16th inch
wash out in the other of my two ailerons which were built on my "Flat
Table.. Anyone had experience with this??? Is this amount of deflection
real significant or is the defelction I mention easily overcome with
rigging, and flap position setting etc??? Thanks...Warren Wassom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Hot Coatings |
> Hello, what is the advantage of using this coating inside the exaust? Is it
> like a liquid ceramic that hardens? I have seen a guy do that to his Harley
snips
Norman Hunger
My next-door neighbor used a do-it-yourself paint on coating over mild
steel tubing for the exhaust on his airshow Taylorcraft (experimental).
It has held up well for 8 or 9 years, except for the ends, which he's
had to replace several times. We decided (very scientific detective
work) that since he didn't bake the pipes in an oven, the area that got
hot enough from exhaust heat to cure the coating were protected, & the
ends never got hot enough to cure.
Point is, even the el-cheapo stuff helped in this case.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Hot Coatings |
Norman,
Larry Vetterman at High Country exhausts recommends against any coating or
wrap on his exhaust systems. He told me the only failure he has seen was a
set of pipes that had been wrapped. He said the problem is that thin-wall
stainless gets eaten out from the inside because more heat is retained when
coated or wrapped. The local ceramic coating shop here in Oklahoma City
also concurred with his recommendation. They coated my tuned induction
pipes but agreed it would be a bad idea for the stainless steel exhaust
pipes.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST nearing completion
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 9:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Jet Hot Coatings
>
>Hello, what is the advantage of using this coating inside the exaust?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cables |
>
>Fitting up the rudder pedals and cables on my -8A (ground adjustable),
>the
>cables sag. Are they only supposed to be snug when I actually place
>my
>feet on them or should they be relativly snug all the time? For some
>reason I thought the master cylinders would hold the rudder pedals
>closer
>to the firewall and thus pull the cables snug. They sag by at least
>an
>inch maybe two.
>
>Bill Pagan
>
-
Yes it is normal.
You probably don't have any brake lines hooked up to the master cyl.
The lines are stiff enough that they will probably keep your cables a
little tighter when they are installed.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Routing -6A |
<< There is an elegant solution to the brake line routing problem in a dual
brake installation that doesn't require routing a line across the battery
area. Put in a F6122 bracket on both sides, and move the VA 118 hose set
up for the right pedal to the right side. >>
Unfortunately this would have prevented me from installing my Cleveland dual
parking brake valve.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
warren wassom wrote:
>
>
> OK ............... I thought my table was perfectly level and flat, but upon
> checking, it appears I have about 1/16th inch wash in one and 1/16th inch
> wash out in the other of my two ailerons which were built on my "Flat
> Table.. Anyone had experience with this??? Is this amount of deflection
> real significant or is the defelction I mention easily overcome with
> rigging, and flap position setting etc??? Thanks...Warren Wassom
On one of my ailerons, I had 3/16" twist. Vans said it would fly OK. I
say "had" because I subsequently junked it and built another (not
entirely because of the twist).
Incidentally, I believe the twist was caused by dimpling the aileron --
that twisted the spar, and hence the aileron itself. My aileron
experiences can be found at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm>.
Frank.
(Almost ready to jig fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | avionics installation (was Terra radios/transponders) |
Brian and others,
Is this kind of thing written down somewhere? Something written cookbook
fashion for dummies? It sounds like a lot can go wrong with an amateur
installation.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A, drilling the last fuselage bits and rethinking that brake line
routing
-----Original Message-----This is almost always an antenna
and/or feedline problem. What kind of
coax and how much are you using between the antenna and
radio? ........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve Clamps |
>
>Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps? There
>is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but I
>can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like pliers and
>vises.
>
>Larry Pardue
>
Larry,
Don't know if they make a special tool or not. Wouldn't surprise me.
A technique that I've found syccessful is to clamp the square metal sleeve
width-wise in a vise with the hose and clamp on the outside of the vise and
the loose end pointing up. I support the hose so it is horizontal to
the clamp. I then clamp on to the loose end with vise grip pliers and
pull hard. Final step is to bend the tap up and cut off even with the
metal sleeve. I also file the edge of this cut because I can't get it
cut off right even with the metal sleeve and the edges are very sharp.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve Clamps |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps?
Yes it takes a special tool. I went to a local A&E and he had one. He
loaned it to me and I installed the firesleeve right there in about 30
minutes. He wouldn't even let me pay for the loan.
Carroll Bird -- Buffalo Gap,TX -4 close to finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
THIS IS A FOLLOW-UP TO MY EARLIER POSTING REGARDING MY NEGATIVE EXPERIENCE
WITH MY TERRA 720TX AND 760D COM:
WHILE MY UNIT WAS IN THE SHOP A FRIEND LOANED ME ON OF HIS. INSTALLEDIN MY
ANY WIRING OR ANTANNA PROBLEM AS THE CAUSE.
MARTIN SUTTER - 1300HRS, RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cleaveland Aircraft Tool" <mail(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | DJ Lauritsen's Interior Photos |
Seasons greetings listers,
I am trying to improve the interiors portion of our website and would like
some photos of the seats the DJ has made. If you have any digital photos
please e-mail then to me. If you have prints or 35mm negatives that you
wouldn't mind sending me I will scan them and send them back.
Thanks for your help,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822 orders
1-515-432-6794 questions
1-515-432-7804 FAX
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: warren wassom <wcwdds(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 11:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: ailerons
>
>OK ............... I thought my table was perfectly level and flat, but
upon
>checking, it appears I have about 1/16th inch wash in one and 1/16th inch
>wash out in the other of my two ailerons which were built on my "Flat
>Table.. Anyone had experience with this??? Is this amount of deflection
>real significant or is the defelction I mention easily overcome with
>rigging, and flap position setting etc??? Thanks...Warren Wassom
>
>
The same thing happened to me! My table was straight along the long axis
but twisted on the short axis.
The fix was to drill out most of the rivets on the trailing edge and
reposition the aileron on a FLAT piece. You will find that the holes shift
only a few thousandths. Sometimes you can redrill and use just the existing
holes. I put additional rivets between every third hole to make up for the
slightly oversized holes. My ailerons are now straight.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve Clamps |
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Firesleeve Clamps
>
>>
>>Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps? There
>>is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but I
>>can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like pliers and
>>vises.
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>
>Larry,
> Don't know if they make a special tool or not. Wouldn't surprise me.
>A technique that I've found syccessful is to clamp the square metal sleeve
>width-wise in a vise with the hose and clamp on the outside of the vise and
>the loose end pointing up. I support the hose so it is horizontal to
>the clamp. I then clamp on to the loose end with vise grip pliers and
>pull hard. Final step is to bend the tap up and cut off even with the
>metal sleeve. I also file the edge of this cut because I can't get it
>cut off right even with the metal sleeve and the edges are very sharp.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
>RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
>
I have seen an AI install firesleeve with 0.032 safety wire on a Mooney. He
took a doubled length and threaded the cut ends through the loop and twisted
the whole works. This seems like an easier method than using the clamps.
Dennis Persyk 6A finsihing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
It's the sub-directory of unscribe, "unsubscribe."
Rob Reece
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716
(505) 835-5299 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Johnny Tracy
> Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 6:00 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: unscribe
>
>
>
> unscribe
>
>
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller McPherson <mcphersn(at)u.arizona.edu> |
Has anybody out there done the seat height mod on an RV-6? I'm only 6
feet tall, but I sit about as tall as 6'4" or so. Must be my long arms or
something. Anyway, I called the factory yesterday about it, and they
don't have drawings or much in the way of instructions.
My head touches the canopy on every -6 I've sat in, even taking out the
cushions. Seems like it would be easier to lower the seat height than to
raise the canopy.
Miller McPherson
RV-6 slider, L-16B
Tucson
mcphersn(at)u.arizona.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
>
> Has anybody out there done the seat height mod on an RV-6?
Miller-
Larry Vetterman(spelling etc?)who makes the exhaust systems for RV's and
several other items like the small circular air vents sold in
Avery/Cleveland tools, has a mod to the floor panels of the RV-4 that allows
more head room and foot room (with interference to the flap handle). It may
be adaptable for the -6 if you look into it? You may want to give him a
call and discuss it?
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (STILL doing spar mods):
)
Socorro, NM
Rob Reece
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716
(505) 835-5299 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
--- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X (reserved), Doing contortions through an
inspection hole.
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
How do you remove the re-set button on a G-meter in order to install it
in the panel? I can find no hex, set screw or roll pin holding it to
the shaft which passes thru the panel. Won't unscrew from shaft.
This unit is a Chinese-mfg meter, obtained--I believe--originally from
Vans.
Jim New Mexico 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Clay,
It is very difficult to install the elevator push rod without two inspection
holes. I was fortunate enough to have a friend recommend that while I was
skinning the fuselage. He has only one hole and wishes fervently that he
had two.
I don't know how I would do it with only one hole.
Good luck,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST on hold for Christmas
>
>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>elevators?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Do NOT ever try to use a Circle or Fly cutter with a hand drill. You can
use a hole saw or punch.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 2:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Push Rod Attachment
>
>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
>left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
>but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
>--- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
>the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
>
>Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X (reserved), Doing contortions through an
>inspection hole.
>Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Miller,
I modified the seat pan to give me about 1" of head room. I don't think
it is really necessary though. I am 6' 5" and I don't have a head room
problem in a 6 if the cushion is not too thick. If you are sure you
want to make the mod I can give you some details of how I did it.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, fuselage
Columbia, SC
>
>
> Has anybody out there done the seat height mod on an RV-6? I'm only 6
> feet tall, but I sit about as tall as 6'4" or so. Must be my long
> arms or
> something. Anyway, I called the factory yesterday about it, and they
> don't have drawings or much in the way of instructions.
>
> My head touches the canopy on every -6 I've sat in, even taking out
> the
> cushions. Seems like it would be easier to lower the seat height than
> to
> raise the canopy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Well ... I put a second hole in my tail. I did it before I fit the skins.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools
through the tiny
inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to
the
elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection
hole on the
left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on
each side,
but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in
the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim;
Dont know how your G meter is set up exactly, but the shaft on mine is so
close to the edge of the cut out itself for the g-meter that I just cut a
small notch for the shaft to fit into; didnt need to remove the knob that
way.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>How do you remove the re-set button on a G-meter in order to install
>it
>in the panel? I can find no hex, set screw or roll pin holding it to
>the shaft which passes thru the panel. Won't unscrew from shaft.
>This unit is a Chinese-mfg meter, obtained--I believe--originally
>from
>Vans.
>
>Jim New Mexico 6A
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <rvsixer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | A Kitbuilder's Christmas |
Lister's:
Sorry for possibly cluttering the list with this, but it's something some
homebuilder's might enjoy.
Last year my wife gave me the best Christmas gift I have ever received, a
poem entitled "A Kitbuilder's Christmas". I promised to get a web page
together and post it there, but never got around to doing so. Figured I'd
better get it up before this next Christmas !!!
The web page address is: home.pacbell.net/rvsixer
Some things might be vague without background:
Wings - local aviation theme pub'n'grub
Chief - Chief Aircraft Supply
Gift I finally received - Ameriking ELT
"No more ryhming....peanut" - phrase from the movie "Princess and the Bride"
Enjoy....
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, finally finished full-time school, it's time to finish an
airplane!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
That is precisely what I did on both the RV-6A's that I built.
The inspection hole on the right was installed after the fuse was built, so
the cover has the nutplates mounted on it and has the indent around the
edges. It is installed from behind, so it has to fit thru the other
inspection hole.
Ted
RV-6A #1 built & sold
RV-6A #2 4 months from flight.???
----- Original Message -----
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
Sent: December 23, 1998 2:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Push Rod Attachment
>
>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
>left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
>but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
>--- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
>the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
>
>Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X (reserved), Doing contortions through an
>inspection hole.
>Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
<< OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side, >>
Clay,
Here is one way. Use one hand inside with a wrench to hold the nut.
With the other hand use a quarter inch ratchet with the correct size socket
and a 6 inch or longer extension. You only have to have one hand inside this
way. I have helped remove elevators for painting or adapting to electric
elevator trim several times and this works great. On my airplane I opted for
plan B and installed a hole on both sides, but its really not necessary.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios/transponders. |
>
>I regret to add that every piece of Terra equipment I have: 760 radio,
>200 Nav and Transponder all failed to work correctly. Transponder is
>weak on receive even after being returned from Trimble, Radio has
>terrible noise in tx channel, and VOR mode of 200N very weak and does
>not drive TRI NAv indicator. Guess should hve gone with King, but lite
>weight and small size clouded my judgement.
>
>Ed
>
>Arzflyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Take it from me, avoid Terra radios, etc. at any cost. Poor, poor quality,
>> service, etc. etc.
>>
I looked at Terra equipment because of the small panel footprint and the
price but one very experienced avionics technician I spoke to said that
they had had many problems and he didn't recommend it for an Australian
installation because you need ready access to the service facilities. He
described the the ADF as "for decorative purposes only"
Leo Davies
(went with King)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Proseal |
I need some Proseal to seal up the gaps in corner of firewall and firewall
recess, etc. Does anyone have a source? Van's smallest quantity is a quart
and I don't think I will need that much.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage
Ercoupe 415-D
donmack(at)flash.net
icq 16679225
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris marion <flyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
| Subject: | dimpled wrong side |
dear listers,
I have just dimpled the wrong side of my w-604 inboard wing skin(bottom
right).can I redimple(reverse dimple) the skin without compromising the
strength of the skin or should I just buy a new skin?
thanks in advance
chris marion
rv-6/6a wings
cincy ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Hot Coatings |
In a message dated 12/22/98 9:58:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tcraigst(at)ionet.net writes:
<< They coated my tuned induction
pipes but agreed it would be a bad idea for the stainless steel exhaust
pipes. >>
Maybe this "jet coating" would be a good option for those with exaust systems
made of mild steel.(to help longevity?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
I finally ended up putting a small hole on the other side, just big enough
for the proper size socket to fit through, right in line with the bolt head.
Then use an extension on your socket to hold the bolt. The hole is covered
with a flush snap plug.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
>left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
>but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
>--- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
>the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
--------------67CC69F733BE9051C4164A09
warren wassom wrote:
>
> OK ............... I thought my table was perfectly level and flat, but upon
> checking, it appears I have about 1/16th inch wash in one and 1/16th inch
> wash out in the other of my two ailerons which were built on my "Flat
> Table.. Anyone had experience with this??? Is this amount of deflection
> real significant or is the defelction I mention easily overcome with
> rigging, and flap position setting etc???
In my experience, yes, it is easily overcome.
> All my control surfaces had a twist on the order of 1/16th ,except one.
> Straighter is definitely better, but I got mine in the air by swallowing hard
> and sure enough, it flies just as straight and fast as anyone elses around
> here. Rigging is not difficult and such deviations are not detectable to teh
> naked eye, on hte finished airplane.
Of course, like you, I know how to make them straight next time and will do it,
but if you want to fly in this century, don't chase 1/16th of an inch (One
man's philosophy). I used 1/8th as my threshhold of worry, and have not
regretted it.
--------------67CC69F733BE9051C4164A09
--------------67CC69F733BE9051C4164A09--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | avionics installation (was Terra |
radios/transponders)
>
>Brian and others,
>
>Is this kind of thing written down somewhere? Something written cookbook
>fashion for dummies? It sounds like a lot can go wrong with an amateur
>installation.
A fair bit of this is in Robert Nuckols' book, "The AeroElectric
Connection." You can also check out RST Engineering
(http://www.rst-engr.com/) where other good stuff can be found.
Another good resource is the Radio Amateur's Handbook from the Amateur
Radio Relay League. It has lots of stuff on electricty, radio principles,
wiring, building antennas, operation in mobile vehicles, etc. Even if you
are not a ham there is lots of good reference info there.
(http://www.arrl.org/catalog/)
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A, drilling the last fuselage bits and rethinking that brake line
>routing
>
> -----Original Message-----This is almost always an antenna
>and/or feedline problem. What kind of
> coax and how much are you using between the antenna and
>radio? ........
>
>
>
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Clay,
I have some extra 1" snap plugs if you want to try what
Ed has suggested. Just give me a call.
BTW, I installed two inspection holes.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
>
>I finally ended up putting a small hole on the other side, just big enough
>for the proper size socket to fit through, right in line with the bolt head.
>Then use an extension on your socket to hold the bolt. The hole is covered
>with a flush snap plug.
>
>Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
>ebundy(at)mci2000.com
>http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
>>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>>elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
>>left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
>>but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
>>--- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
>>the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeve Clamps |
| From: | rvinfo(at)Juno.com (b green) |
There is a special tool to install the clamps. The Aeroquip instructions
say that it is permissable to use a nylon wire tie instead of the band
clamp. This would alleviate the need for the special tool and is a
somewhat cleaner installation in my opinion.
Bruce Green
writes:
>
>>
>>Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps?
>There
>>is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but
>I
>>can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like
>pliers and
>>vises.
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>
>Larry,
> Don't know if they make a special tool or not. Wouldn't surprise
>me.
>A technique that I've found syccessful is to clamp the square metal
>sleeve
>width-wise in a vise with the hose and clamp on the outside of the
>vise and
>the loose end pointing up. I support the hose so it is horizontal to
>
>the clamp. I then clamp on to the loose end with vise grip pliers
>and
>pull hard. Final step is to bend the tap up and cut off even with
>the
>metal sleeve. I also file the edge of this cut because I can't get it
>
>cut off right even with the metal sleeve and the edges are very
>sharp.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
>RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
>
>
>
---
>
---
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
Chris,
I think reverse dimpling the skins would weaken them considerably in the
area of the dimples. Remember the design is a "stressed skin" design. Not
being any type of engineer I'd talk to Vans's before reverse dimpling or
ordering a new skin. Sometimes we all make mistakes we'd like to find a
convenient fix for but then reluctantly order the new part ;') Hang in
there!!
Bill Pagan
been there done something like that
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>dear listers,
> I have just dimpled the wrong side of my w-604 inboard wing skin(bottom
>right).can I redimple(reverse dimple) the skin without compromising the
>strength of the skin or should I just buy a new skin?
>thanks in advance
>chris marion
>rv-6/6a wings
>cincy ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
>
>dear listers,
> I have just dimpled the wrong side of my w-604 inboard wing skin(bottom
>right).can I redimple(reverse dimple) the skin without compromising the
>strength of the skin or should I just buy a new skin?
>thanks in advance
>chris marion
>rv-6/6a wings
>cincy ohio
Hey Chis,
Can you use it for the other wing and then dimple the other wing's inboard
wing skin the wrong way too to make it work for this wing? It works in my
head, but I haven't tested it yet. I am assuming that you don't have the
other wing done yet.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a fusilage jig leveled
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Proseal |
AC Spruce has small quantities in the tube.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
By all means, replace the skin!!!!!!
Don't compromise your safety for
the cost of a new skin. Doing it from
the other side will work harden the metal.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Proseal |
Aircraft Spruce and possibly others sell Proseal or an equivalent in 2 and 6
ounce sizes. The problem is that you can buy a quart from Van's and it only
costs twice what the 6 ounce size costs from ACS.
On the other hand, the manual (Or was it the videos, or maybe the Justice
instructions?) mentions using RTV for the uses you noted.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 sometime this century
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris marion <flyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
hey Tom,
the other skin is riveted into place.I have just received an e-mail
from vans support.their reply was that they did not know if the strength
of the skin would be compromised, therefore they recommend replacing the
skin.this seems to be the thoughts of the list also.so I will soon be
the proud owner of a new w-604.
thanks to all and happy holidays
chris marion
rv-6/6a wings
cincy ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
Chris;
I'm sure you will get different ideas on this. But to give you some choice
in the opinions, I submit mine. I did the same to part of one of my wing
skins. About half way through the dimpling, it dawned on me my stupidity.
I turned it over and dimpled it from the correct side. Couldn't see any
difference in it at all. The plane now has about 300 hours on it. It
hasn't fallen out of the sky and the wing panel is as tight as any I've
seen.
As for work hardening the metal, you are doing that when you put any dimple
in the skin, it becomes a matter of when is what too much. One blow, one
dimple direction, two, four or what.
If you are going to worry about it and money is no object--by all means
order you a new panel. If you decide to do what I did, do it and forget it.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
dear listers,
I have just dimpled the wrong side of my w-604 inboard wing skin(bottom
right).can I redimple(reverse dimple) the skin without compromising the
strength of the skin or should I just buy a new skin?
thanks in advance
chris marion
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffle Kits From Vans |
Listers;
As just your average first time builder, I just wanted to give my
opinion on the pre-fab baffle kit from Vans for my RV-8, 0-360. I found
the instructions to be woefully inadequate. Alot of non-professional,
hand drawings that are extremely difficult to make sense out of. Also
many inconsistencies, and some parts were missing from the kit. I just
made the missing parts rather than go through the hassle of requesting
them to be sent. The quality of the actual parts seems to be adequate.
For the price that is charged for these kits, why can't they make them to
just fit and bolt? I have managed to make it around the back and sides
of the engine, but around the front and inlet ramps, I am still lost.
Will figure it out eventually, but it shouldnt be this way. So far in
this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest instructions,
with Duckworks landing lights a close second. Anybody else had this
problem?
Done complaining now.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Does anybody happen to know how many degrees dihedral an RV6A has in it's
wings? Is it 3.5 degrees?
Thanks, Norman, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Circuit Breakers |
>
> One caveat however is that I can only find the blade fuses down
>to 3A. I have all my avionics on separate fuses, and some (Mkr and
>intercom for example) specify 1 or 2 amp fuses. I'm not really worried,
>I'm sure the 3A will protect them ok, but was curious what your
>comments were on this.
>
I called Terra when I was installing my radios. The person that I spoke
with said that the 2A fuse was to protect the radio, not the wire, and
that you should not use a fuse with a higher rating. 2A blade type fuses
are manufactured, but they are not common. I was in Toronto on business
and found them at large electronic supply store (Electro-Sonic).
Mark Nielsen
Green Bay, WI
RV-6; 306 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
--------------74FDCCB98D5183E1D51910F5
Clay Smith wrote:
>
>
> OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
> inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
> elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
> left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
> but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
> --- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
> the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
>
Clay,
While I am building a 6A, the tails on these here airplanes are very
similar. I drilled a 1" hole on the opposite side so I could get a
socket on the nut. To fill the hole I used an aluminum snap plug to fill
the hole. I have a bag of these (FAA/PMA) and could send you one if
interested. I did use a fly cutter to cut the hole, but hand turned it.
Sounds slow, but not really. Five minutes and the hole was cut.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 - FAB almost done.
--------------74FDCCB98D5183E1D51910F5
name="zilik.vcf"
filename="zilik.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Zilik;Gary
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:zilik(at)bewellnet.com
fn:Gary Zilik
end:vcard
--------------74FDCCB98D5183E1D51910F5--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dihedral |
You might want to check one of the POH's that has been distributed. I
believe Scott Gesele and Gary Vanremortal have both authored very nice
works..I still haven't figured out how they got all of those specifications!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 9:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Dihedral
>
>Does anybody happen to know how many degrees dihedral an RV6A has in it's
>wings? Is it 3.5 degrees?
>Thanks, Norman, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
--------------02DC84C87DC44BD213CE9E43
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers;
> As just your average first time builder, I just wanted to give my
> opinion on the pre-fab baffle kit from Vans for my RV-8, 0-360. I found
> the instructions to be woefully inadequate.
Von,
I made my baffles from scratch ( templates included in the plans) and
found that was the easy part. The plans and builders manual were totally
inadequate to finish. A plea to the list with my problems resulted in a
lister sending me his baffle instructions that were included with Vans
baffle kit. I found that the instructions were well written and easy to
follow. The only hand drawn drawing was a isometric view of the complete
baffle installation. Of course I was missing page 14 which had all the
little small parts that are to be hand fabricated by the builder but
this was easy to overcome as most of these parts (I think) were baffle
stiffeners for the bolt holes and the mounting brackets. The only part I
had questions about was the finger spacers. I had know idea what a
finger spacer was.
What I did find is that the air inlet floors and sides differed
tremendously from the baffle plans and pictures in the instructions.
This was total trial and error fitting and very tedious. Also the top of
the baffles need to be trimmed to fit the cowl and this I found was done
by installing one baffle piece at a time and then the top cowl and
cutting (the baffle) to fit. Another very tedious operation. Now that I
have the baffles fitting under the cowl the next step is to modify them
to accept and aluminum top to create a pressure plenum.
If I were to do it again, I would not hesitate to make the baffles from
scratch. I found it funm fast and easy to cut the baffles, bend and fit
them. This step only took one 8 hour work session.
The baffles take a tremendous amount of work for what they are. Each
installation will be slightly different and modifications to the baffles
is slow work. Hang in there and eventually they will fit.
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO. -25 degrees F last night.
6A s/n 22993 - Fitted the Fabulous Air Box today.
--------------02DC84C87DC44BD213CE9E43
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filename="zilik.vcf"
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n:Zilik;Gary
adr:;;;;;;
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fn:Gary Zilik
end:vcard
--------------02DC84C87DC44BD213CE9E43--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< My head touches the canopy on every -6 I've sat in, even taking out the
cushions. Seems like it would be easier to lower the seat height than to
raise the canopy. >>
Actually, modifying the canopy to add an additional inch is quite
straightforward. Van's has the mod sheet. Mine was a slider.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dihedral |
<< Does anybody happen to know how many degrees dihedral an RV6A has in it's
>wings? Is it 3.5 degrees? >>
3.5 degrees wing dihedral was listed in the published data on Steve Barnard's
RV-6A as tested by the CAFE foundation.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | cowlings and baffles |
i have been considering my options related to the standard van's cowl and
baffle for my 6a. the main contender is the sam james product--the round
inlet cowl (formerly sold by barnard) and a fiberglass plenum to go with it.
here are the pros and cons as i see them:
pros--more speed due to lower drag (around 3-5 kts)
better engine cooling (more even flow)
better quality and workmanship (? sam has a great reputation)
easier to install plenum than van's baffles (? no experience here, but
see recent thread)
more attractive design (my own personal view)
cons--more money
non-standard (may have unanticipated effects on other systems)
prop-engine combo may be limited (this is the biggie)
i welcome any feedback on these issues. as i point out above, i am most
worried about prop-engine combo. i believe this cowl was designed to
accommodate the 200hp IO-360 with a CS prop. however, i am currently
planning on the 0-360 from van's with the new FP metal sensenich. sam james
says this would require a 4-3/4" extension. i don't know, but this sounds
like it could be a problem, so if anyone can enlighten me about this i would
appreciate it.
thanks in advance, and happy holidays,
louis cappucci
6a-qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Baffle Kits From Vans |
>So far in this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest
instructions,
with Duckworks landing lights a close second.<
Von,
Can't help you with the baffle but I found the Duckworks instructions just
fine. Guess we all visualize and process things differently (or maybe you
didn't get all the photos with yours?). My only disappointment with the
kit was the need to cut the lens to size. Seems Duckworks could simply
mold them the right size since the tolerance is not critical.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
wings done, fuse ships in Feb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
>>So far in this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest
>instructions,
>with Duckworks landing lights a close second.<
>
>Von,
>
>Can't help you with the baffle but I found the Duckworks instructions just
>fine. Guess we all visualize and process things differently (or maybe you
>didn't get all the photos with yours?). My only disappointment with the
>kit was the need to cut the lens to size. Seems Duckworks could simply
>mold them the right size since the tolerance is not critical.
No offense, but the above must have been written by someone who installed
the Duckworks landing light prior to installing the canopy. After going
through a canopy, trimming that little piece of plexi on the landing light
was a no-brainer. Also, I thought the Duckworks instructions were more than
adequate to do the job and would highly recommend the product.
Scott Gesele N506RV- Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>Does anybody happen to know how many degrees dihedral an RV6A has in
>it's
>wings? Is it 3.5 degrees?
>Thanks, Norman, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
Yes, Dwg 13 RH side, top 1/3.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Hello, do I need an aileron trim system if I have a Navaid autopilot? If so
how about htoughts on manual verses electric.
Norman, RV6A, Delta, BC, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
Scott and others;
When I referred to the Duckworks Landing Lite, I am referring to mine,
which were done a year ago. The instructions may be better now, I know
alot of builders (myself included) complained about this. The main
problem was in how to make these lights fit the RV-8; there was a
modification you had to make, and nowhere near enough instructions to do
it. Maybe if enough of us complain to the manufacturer of the baffles
(Vans?), something will be done about simplifying those, or maybe I
should go into the baffle business?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>>>So far in this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest
>>instructions,
>>with Duckworks landing lights a close second.<
>>
>>Von,
>>
>>Can't help you with the baffle but I found the Duckworks instructions
>just
>>fine. Guess we all visualize and process things differently (or
>maybe you
>>didn't get all the photos with yours?). My only disappointment with
>the
>>kit was the need to cut the lens to size. Seems Duckworks could
>simply
>>mold them the right size since the tolerance is not critical.
>
>No offense, but the above must have been written by someone who
>installed
>the Duckworks landing light prior to installing the canopy. After
>going
>through a canopy, trimming that little piece of plexi on the landing
>light
>was a no-brainer. Also, I thought the Duckworks instructions were
>more than
>adequate to do the job and would highly recommend the product.
>
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV- Flying
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
"Scott A. Jordan" wrote:
>
>
> >So far in this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest
> instructions,
> with Duckworks landing lights a close second.<
>
> Von,
>
> Can't help you with the baffle but I found the Duckworks instructions just
> fine. Guess we all visualize and process things differently (or maybe you
> didn't get all the photos with yours?). My only disappointment with the
> kit was the need to cut the lens to size. Seems Duckworks could simply
> mold them the right size since the tolerance is not critical.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> wings done, fuse ships in Feb
Scott, I think you and I got our Duckworks kits from the same batch.
Apparently the hole template got shrunk in some of the kits; The
Duckworks guys will replace the incorrect templates if you get in touch
with them.
Sam Buchanan (engine stuff)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bert Forero <bertrv(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Side pannels baggage compartment |
12/24/98
I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
baggage compartment;
the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
pannels.
Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the floor is
riveted ?
Am I doing something wrong here ?
I would appreciate if any one has any suggestions
Happy Holidays''''''
Bert Murillo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
what I did was to put a small inspection on the other side it was too smatt
to get my hands in it so I asken my nextdoor neighbor to help me He is in the
3rd grade and has very small hands we worked on installing the bolt for about
15 min and finally got it installed. Its not the first time that I have used
the young man. His reward- Coke and Candybar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Side pannels baggage compartment |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Forero <bertrv(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 8:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Side pannels baggage compartment
>
>12/24/98
>
>
>I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
>baggage compartment;
>the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
>pannels.
>Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the floor is
>riveted ?
>Am I doing something wrong here ?
>
>I would appreciate if any one has any suggestions
I also have a qb6, although no nutplates were supplied on the baggage
compartment side panels. The plans seem to call for the side panels to go
under the floor, and I worried about the same thing. A little experimenting
showed that you can get them in and out with the floors in place, but only
with a lot of bending and scratching. Looking carefully at the Orndorff
film, I noted that he had installed the panels on top of the floor. Because
there is no support under the edge of the floor, it would seem to make no
difference where they go. Clearly, there is nothing structural about the
arrangement. On top, they will be easy to remove and install. Cover up the
flange with a nice piece of fabric or rug, and you will never know the
difference. Incidentally, I put nutplates on my baggage floor. I hate
having places on the bottom that you can never get back to once constructed.
Things that spill do end up at the bottom. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Thank you all for you're responses (I counted 8). What a great idea to just put
a small hole (I'll use a step drill) through the left side of the fuselage lined
up with the bolt. I'll then put a socket on the bolt (through my new hole on
the left side) and tighten with a wrench through the right side hole. I'll then
cover the new small hole with an aluminum snap plug.
Great idea guys. Thanks.
Clay Smith, RV-4, moving on to the next head scratcher.
Clay Smith wrote:
>
> OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
> inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
> elevators? One option I see is to put another inspection hole on the
> left side of the fuselage so I can have one hand through on each side,
> but I REALLY don't want to put another inspection hole in the fuselage
> --- using a circle cutter on a hand drill doesn't sound fun. Besides,
> the plans call for one inspection hole, so surely there's a way.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X (reserved), Doing contortions through an
> inspection hole.
> Indiana
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side pannels baggage compartment |
My solution was, don't rivet the floor. I installed platenuts for mine, in
case I needed to get to some wires or something. Very time consuming
though.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Forero <bertrv(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 11:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: Side pannels baggage compartment
>
>12/24/98
>
>
>I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
>baggage compartment;
>the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
>pannels.
>Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the floor is
>riveted ?
>Am I doing something wrong here ?
>
>I would appreciate if any one has any suggestions
>
>Happy Holidays''''''
>
>Bert Murillo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dimpled wrong side |
I would purchase a new wing skin or make a new wing skin the old fashion
way--get some alum. and cut to dimension. Flatten the dimples back out and use
it (the old one)as a pattern or better yet drill the newly made skin to the
ribs the way it was done in the RV dark ages--without pre-punched holes. I
would not reverse dimple your skin--sorry-- but that is not an acceptable
practice--one ot two holes maybe but a whole skin nope. You will be happier
knowing you solved the problem the right way and when you are done kicking
yourself just remember you are not the only one to make big goofs. Best bet
get a new skin from Vans. JR-A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dihedral |
-----Original Message-----
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com <donspawn(at)Juno.com>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 10:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Dihedral
>
>
>>Does anybody happen to know how many degrees dihedral an RV6A has in
>>it's
>>wings? Is it 3.5 degrees?
>>Thanks, Norman, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>>
>
>Yes, Dwg 13 RH side, top 1/3.
>
>Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
My drawing RV6 DWG 13 R6 has a callout for a 3 1/2 degree taper for
"INCIDENCE ANGLE". The draftsman confused incidence with dihedral.
On drawing RV6 DWG 15 R4 the W-620 Spar Splice Plate would give us a clue as
to the dihedral. Unfortunately the part is lacking enough dimensions to
fabricate it, much less calculate the included angle of the two included
center lines.
If we assume that the bottom of the F604A Bulkhead Plate is parallel to the
wing spars, then the dihedral is given by arctan((9 7/32 - 7 7/8)/21)
3.7 degrees.
The real dihedral is perhaps best measured!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
Happy Holidays all,
Here's an idea I hav'nt seen metioned. How about using a floating nutplate on
the blind side of the elev horn? No nut and washer to fuss with. Anyone see
anthing wrong with that idea?
Laird (with an inspection hole on the other side)
SoCal RV-6 finish kit
>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
elevators? <
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
I have noticed in several photos from the RVator and other sources that
there are other cowling inlet options for RV-4's, -6's, etc. My non
technical description is that of a smilie face under the propeller spinner.
Can someone shed some light as to where these cowlings/modifications are to
be located? I assume other than looks that there is some benefit to this
cowling modification?
Regards,
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
500 Oracle Pkwy
Redwood Shores, CA
94065
650-506-2740
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Happy Birthday to Rita. You received a large brown envelope from Bruce
Bell. Keep on truckin. I think I got that damm canopy dodwn for the count.
see ya
Joe/Penni
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Friend of mine took me for a ride in a starduster two. The engine was a v6
out of A 1981 (I believe mecrcury) $500. Belt reduction drive for about
$3500 he built his own engine mount. He figured about $5000 all total
firewall foreward. Cruse at 3500 rpm and figures thats about 70 mph in a
car. He is pretty knowledgeable about car engines since he owned and
operated a filling station.
joe/fuselageRV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
Message text written by Scott Gesele
>No offense, but the above must have been written by someone who installed
the Duckworks landing light prior to installing the canopy.<
Your right, but why practice bleeding?
Sam Buchanan
>I think you and I got our Duckworks kits from the same batch.
Apparently the hole template got shrunk in some of the kits <
You're right, my templates were undersized and replaced. Even so, the
lenses are much bigger than they need to be. They don't _have_ to be cut
down but, a gram here and a gram there...
Von:
I did get the short brackets with the simple instruction to"legthen them"
or some such verbage. Maybe when you make as many mistakes as I do you
learn quicker how to fix things ;-> I may not be the best at looking ahead
and preventing a problem but I'm getting pretty good at fixing them! Can't
wait for my next airplane, it will go together so much faster & better!
The new kits are better, the brackets are now long enough and even the lens
mounting brackets are supplied and pre-punched!
Merry Christmas / Happy Holidays
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Fuselage on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | After Market RV Cowls |
Hello Steven, I'm about two weeks into researching the round cowl inlet
subject. How would you like to share info? I'll tell you all I've learnt and
if you learn anything new in the near future you can pass it back to me.
Sam James make and sells cowls, plenums, wing root fairings, and wheel
pants. He doesn't have a website but his phone number is 941-675-4493. Order
your finishing kit from Van's without the cowl or baffle kit and buy Sam's
instead. It will cost you a bunch more but Sam is claiming a speed increase.
Talk to him. The theory is that an RV6 has 25% of it's drag created by
cooling the engine. Cooling efficiency can be increased by using a plenum
chamber that has no corners or edges in it that would disturb the high
pressure inlet air. The plenum allows the air to gradually expand without
ruffling up and therefor pass through the cooling fins better.
Van's cowls have 52 sq inches of inlet and Sam's cowls have 35 sq inches of
inlet. Less air into the cowl means lass overall drag and a faster aircraft?
Have you noticed The New Piper Aircraft Company has round inlets in their
cowls lately?
By the way, I have yet to confirm any of these numbers. If you hear anything
more please tell me.
Goto http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/scrapbok.html and have a look at Dave
Anders cowl. I believe Sam made it.
If you are very creative with fiberglass Sam will sell just the plenum and
inlets and you can try to modify your factory cowl.
I have talked to a guy in Oregon that has bought on but he hasn't installed
it yet. I am very currious as to how well it fits together and how do you
get a couple of small hoses off the back for your heat muff and oil cooler
That's all for now,
If anybody else out there has any more info please send it over. Thanks,
Norman Hunger RV6A nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tina and Jeff Kotson" <kotson(at)pacifier.com> |
Absolutely
----------
> From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: quick poll
> Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 2:44 PM
>
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Yes.
Norman
-----Original Message-----
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 2:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: quick poll
>
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
>Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
>a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
>So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
>around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
>around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: quick poll
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
>Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
>a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
>around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
>Andy
Guess the answer to this one is no,but then I already have the Mooney!
Seasons Greetings to all.
Derek Reed 6A Fus. Oregon and 32F in the hanger, Brr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
I wouldn't use a nut plate for attaching a
Major Control Surface! Just my personal
opinion.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
No, because I don't have the need for a 4 place
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Would not be interested.
----- Original Message -----
From: <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 1998 2:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: quick poll
A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
>
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
For about twice the cost of similar performance in an RV-4 and no
perceptible advantage? No, I'd build two RV-4s.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side pannels baggage compartment |
Bert Forero wrote:
>
> 12/24/98
>
> I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
> baggage compartment;
> the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
> pannels.
> Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the floor is
> riveted ?
> Am I doing something wrong here ?
>
Bert,
I installed mine per the plans and have no problem getting them out. In is a
little tougher but not hard. One trick is to trim the bottom flange (aft end)
at a 45 - 60 degree angle, this allows the flange to slip under the floor with
ease. I looked into Orndorff's easy way out and thought Van's way gave a
little more support to the floor.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 - FAB almost done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
I'm not building BUT!!! anything less than a drilled bolt, castellated nut,
and cotter key is UNACCEPTABLE practice on anything that is a pivot, The
best is a Clevis bolt.
Why would you risk your life on anything less????
Cy Galley, Chairman, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 3:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator Push Rod Attachment
>
>Happy Holidays all,
>
>Here's an idea I hav'nt seen metioned. How about using a floating nutplate
on the blind side of the elev horn? No nut and washer to fuss with. Anyone
see anthing wrong with that idea?
>
>Laird (with an inspection hole on the other side)
>SoCal RV-6 finish kit
>
>
>>OK. I give up. How do you get both hands and two tools through the tiny
>inspection hole in order to attach the elevator push rod to the
>elevators? <
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
My 93 Buick Regal only does about 2000 for 70 MPH. I have a tach on the
dash.
-----Original Message-----
From: joseph.wiza <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 3:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ford V6
>
>Friend of mine took me for a ride in a starduster two. The engine was a v6
>out of A 1981 (I believe mecrcury) $500. Belt reduction drive for about
>$3500 he built his own engine mount. He figured about $5000 all total
>firewall foreward. Cruse at 3500 rpm and figures thats about 70 mph in a
>car. He is pretty knowledgeable about car engines since he owned and
>operated a filling station.
>
>joe/fuselageRV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/24/98 5:53:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>>
No because I already have a Seneca and it has 6 places, and a spare engine to
boot
BSivori(at)AOl.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings Closed waiting on Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: After Market RV Cowls |
Norman, Thanks for the response. I have spoken with Dave Anders and Sam
James about this as well. I contacted Dave as I had an opportunity to
purchase the same engine he is using in his RV-4. The deal for the engine
was good but after speaking with Dave, Sam and Lycon Engineering the cost
became too prohibitive and to me not worth the extra few MPH gained. I also
plan to do aerobatics with the RV-4 and did not want the weight penalty of
the angle valve engine.
Essentially Dave Anders built the cowling out of a mold of his modified RV-4
Cowling. This was due to his using an AEIO360 Angle Valve engine which is
both heavier and wider than the parallel valve IO360/O360 series engines.
The need to build a plenum/larger cowl was due in part to the heat generated
by the larger engine and the reduced area inside the cowling taken by the
engine (part of the root cause of the higher temps).
As for the round inlets I have heard mixed figures regarding the actual MPH
gain. I believe the real benefit of the plenum is the even engine cooling
resulting from the smooth flow of cooling air and other details you
mentioned in your email.
I can't remember who specifically responded to me regarding the Sam James
Plenum (possible search in the Archives). He mentioned that the Plenum and
instructions as received from Sam James needed better drawings and
installation instructions. He had a challenging time handing the
installation. He was going to provide CAD drawings and instruction revisions
to Sam James as a way of helping future customers with their installations.
Don't know of that has happened yet.
g
What I decided to do thanks to Warren Bishop is to build an aluminum Plenum
for my RV-4. My goal is to have the optimum engine cooling. 5MPH is a nice
benefit from the round inlets, however, if I can achieve close to 200MPH
without them then I will have reached my personal performance goal for my
RV-4.
I am looking at the wheel pants, wing root fairings and fiberglass leg pants
as less expensive means of gaining a couple of MPH's. There are several
testimonials in the Archives from other builders as to the speed increases
gained by these changes.
Before I forget. In this months RVator Van's is introducing an new engine
cowling which is lighter, stronger and more rigid than the stock cowling.
Had I not had a finishing kit already I would have considered one of these
new cowlings. I think it would be great if Van's would build and sell
plans/finished aluminum or composit Plenums to go with these new cowlings.
Last, what I want to find out is there a modification that can be done to
the stock cowling which removes the lower air intake scoop and replaces it
with the half moon / smiley face air intake that sits under the propeller
spinner. I like the looks of it vs. the stock intake scoop.
So, that is what I know. If I find out more I will certainly share it with
you and others on the list.
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 1998 3:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: After Market RV Cowls
Hello Steven, I'm about two weeks into researching the round cowl inlet
subject. How would you like to share info? I'll tell you all I've learnt and
if you learn anything new in the near future you can pass it back to me.
Sam James make and sells cowls, plenums, wing root fairings, and wheel
pants. He doesn't have a website but his phone number is 941-675-4493. Order
your finishing kit from Van's without the cowl or baffle kit and buy Sam's
instead. It will cost you a bunch more but Sam is claiming a speed increase.
Talk to him. The theory is that an RV6 has 25% of it's drag created by
cooling the engine. Cooling efficiency can be increased by using a plenum
chamber that has no corners or edges in it that would disturb the high
pressure inlet air. The plenum allows the air to gradually expand without
ruffling up and therefor pass through the cooling fins better.
Van's cowls have 52 sq inches of inlet and Sam's cowls have 35 sq inches of
inlet. Less air into the cowl means lass overall drag and a faster aircraft?
Have you noticed The New Piper Aircraft Company has round inlets in their
cowls lately?
By the way, I have yet to confirm any of these numbers. If you hear anything
more please tell me.
Goto http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/scrapbok.html and have a look at Dave
Anders cowl. I believe Sam made it.
If you are very creative with fiberglass Sam will sell just the plenum and
inlets and you can try to modify your factory cowl.
I have talked to a guy in Oregon that has bought on but he hasn't installed
it yet. I am very currious as to how well it fits together and how do you
get a couple of small hoses off the back for your heat muff and oil cooler
That's all for now,
If anybody else out there has any more info please send it over. Thanks,
Norman Hunger RV6A nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
>
No!
All my friends that say that they need a four place fly 95%
of the time with only one or two people in their 4 place
airplanes. I think that most people that think 4 place,
usually have kids they are thinking of and rightly so.
I found that after a short while my kids got to the place
where they were more interested in cars and the opposite sex
than they were flying.
Jerry Springer|RV-6|Hillsboro, Or|jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: quick poll-Nope |
No, I would not want one (four place) and by the way what is RV8 class
performance compared to RV4 or 6 anyway mean? A four place traveling machine
might be nice but it would not be the sport machines that the RV series are
now. I think the Grumman Tiger would be my bet in that category. Fast, simple,
proven, strong, resalable without the long term liability and FAA certified
for what that is worth. The reason so many people are building the RV is that
they offer something you cannot get in a Cesser or Piper or whatever--true
sporting nature--it is like comparing a sports car to a station wagon--no
matter how sporty the family truckster is it still is not a sports car and a
four place RV would not be the RV we all love but a different thing all
together. The RV has been so successful because it occupies a niche that has
been totally ignored by the Traditional Aviation Companies--sportiness and
aerobatic performance. Just my opinion and I am entitled to it so do not jump
on me. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
Put me down for YES. I haven't even finished my 6A yet, but just had a
daughter and am trying to figure out what I'm going to do when she grows
out of her car seat. No, (JR), I'm not looking for a "sporty RV with
four seats", I'm looking for a four place aluminum kitplane. Period.
So far, it looks like it will be the Murphy Super Rebel 2500 4/6 seater.
It's the only game in town.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side pannels baggage compartment |
Bert,
You have it correct, the floor is on top of the side panels, as there is no
other support at the outside edges of the baggage floors. You may have to
trim the flange of the side panels a little to allow the motion necessary
to insert/remove.
Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN
> I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
> baggage compartment;
> the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
> pannels.
> Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the floor is
> riveted ?
> Am I doing something wrong here ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
>Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
>a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
>So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
>around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
>around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
>Andy
>
Maybe.
What I really want is a four place twin, with RV flight characteristics,
and two O-235s or O-320s. But I don't think Van would sell enough of them
to allow him to make a profit at a reasonable kit price. Hopefully I'm
wrong, and the RV-12 will be this aircraft (he better not do it too soon,
as I've still got a few years work to go on my -8 :-)
I've had two engine failures (and these were turbine engines, which are
supposedly much more reliable than piston), and would be much happier with
a second engine. This assumes that the aircraft would have a reasonable
performance after an engine failure, which is why most of the type
certified light twins are not my cup of tea either.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)mindspring.com> |
I would seriously consider it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
YES. I have an occasional need for 4 seats and would build one with a
partner. Already know someone that wants 4 seats but does not have
the money for the whole thing alone. That way I could fly my -6 for
me and have access to the extra seats for the girlfriend's kids.
Would have to use a 4 cylinder engine. I DO NOT want to feed the 540
all the fuel it drinks. A 150 KTAS cruise is what I would want.
A 4 place homebuilt will keep me from taking on a partner with my -6
so that I can fly his 4 seat Mooney or Tiger.
Gary
> > A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
> >
> > Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you
could buy
> > a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big
seller.
> >
> > So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> > around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> > around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
> >
> > Andy
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
I have a sneakin' suspicion Van ran this a poll a long time ago......and
the result is obvious...
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" htpp://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick poll YES!!!!!! |
YES. I have an occasional need for 4 seats and would build one with a
partner. That way I could fly my -6 for me and have access to the
extra seats for the girlfriend's kids. Would have to use a 4 cylinder
engine. I DO NOT want to feed the 540 all the fuel it drinks. A 150
KTAS cruise is what I would want.
A 4 place homebuilt will keep me from taking on a partner with my -6
so that I can fly his 4 seat Mooney or Tiger.
Gary
> > A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
> >
> > Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you
could buy
> > a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big
seller.
> >
> > So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> > around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> > around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
> >
> > Andy
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
YES!!!!!
I'd sell the RV-6 I just finished and buy the kit tomorrow.
Marcus
-need to paint it but it's just too fun to stop flying long enough
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
One of my favorite RV-8 pictures is that of N58RV, AKA Miss April, in Van's
1998 calandar. I recently scanned it into my PC and it currently graces my
Windows desktop. It's available in the 'Departures' section of my web site
(http://larry.bowen.com) if you want to do the same. It's approx. 1024 x
768 in size. I hope the copyright lawyers don't mind.
-Larry
RV-8
email: larry(at)bowen.com
web: http://larry.bowen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
| Subject: | aftermarket cowl |
Listers,
Yes, the Sam James aftermarket cowl is expensive. It also requires you to
use the M2YR hub, which is the extended hub that is about $1000 more than
the regular hub Hartzell. But if you really want the round inlets, Sam
also makes the round inlet retrofit to the regular cowl a la Tracy Saylor.
You fit the regular cowl and cut the inlets out and replace them with Sam's.
It seems to be quite a bit of work, but the cowl will work with the
fiberglass plenum which is probably where you gain the most speed. I
imagine the plenum is a lot easier to fit than the regular baffling. I
would probably have gone this route on my -6 if I hadn't already been done
with the cowl/baffles.
Bob Japundza
Having fun with windshield fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: quick poll-Grumman--Derringer--Bede--Glastar |
Hey, I do not remember which guy wanted a twin engine RV "like " airplane but
I saw somewhere that the WING Derringer was coming back as a four place--nice
looking little twin and maybe you would want one of those. Also the Grumman
line is coming back so the wonderfull Tiger is to be availabe yet again and
then there is the Cirrus complete with a parachute no less and leather
upholstery at a price not much more than some spend on there Glasairs ( yes I
know the same argument I made earlier applies to them also) and there is that
Cessna look alike Stallion 4 placer that seems to be a nice machine and the
Glastar can carry a jump seat for three up and how about the Bede 4 all metal
and kinda proven--"kinda" and why not a good used Cessna 172 or 182 for mom
and the kiddies also very proven and certified to boot. You can purchase a
77-78 Tiger for about the price of a four place mythical RV-somethingother and
go fly it today with sliding canopy and hammer tough Lycoming 0-360 and free
swiveling nose gear and a responsive machine it is to. There are choices
available beyond dreaming for something that will never be--well never say
never--wish upon a star if you must. Time to get off this computer for the
day. Happy Holidays to all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
If you are talking to Van, ask him why $30K for parts to build a Kitfox
instead of $20K for a certified Cub.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jet Hot Coatings |
I have jet-coat on my aeroplane now, and it has been in use for about three
years. It is sort of okay. NOT the panacia they make it out to be. (i.e. it
will rust and discolor but over a very long time.) I plan on going with
stainless, it will be cheaper than having J.H. redo the tubes
Ed Storo (ersf2b(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aftermarket cowl |
Someone mentioned that the Sam James plenum must be easier to install than
Van's baffle kit. If I remember correctly ( I spoke at length to Sam several
months ago), you build up a set of baffles per Van's instructions, then cut
them down a little and attach the plenum to the top of the baffles.
No free ride here.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
You Bet!! When is Van putting pen to paper on this one?
Merry Christmas to all !!
DGM
Southern Alberta - cold & snowy
________________________________________________________________________________
I tend to agree with JR and Vans; If I want to go buy something that
compares in performance and 'sportiness' to my RV-8, what would I buy?
Pretty slim pickins in this area. But if I want a 4-6 place airplane
that will fly 200mph and cost under 80K, the choices are many; from the
Bonanza to the Mooney, to light twins. Personally, if I ever decide I
need 4 seats, I will probably look for a nice early Mooney 201. But my
plan is to keep my RV-8 forever (don't we all say that?) and rent the 201
at the local airport when I need 4 seats.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Scat Tubing Routing |
In planning my fresh air intake for cabin heat I have two choices; I can
run the scat tubing from the front air ramp around between the exhaust
pipes and the cowling and to the heat mufff, or I can run it directly
under the cylinders between the crankcase and the intake risers (this is
a tight area) to the heat muff. Which is preferrable? Going around by
the cowling route puts the tubing within an inch or so of the exhausts
where they come out of the cylinders. How much heat can the scat tubing
take? The easiest way of course is to simply take the air off the back
baffle, but dangers of contaminated air concerns me. Or is this a real
problem? Could'nt a person just shut off the cabin heat if you start to
smell contaminated air,such as if oil were burning, etc? Also, this is
the high pressure side of the engine; if something were smoking, etc it
would seem more likely to produce smoke on the low pressure side. Just
thinking out loud. Opinions?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Side pannels baggage compartment |
Hey Bert,
They really work that way. You aren't missing a thing. You remove the side
panels by pushing them out (after removing the screws of course) until the
flanges clear the floor. They are quite flexible.
Merry Christmas to all.
Steve Soule
Wondering if I drew the curve right on the top of my F-603 instrument panel
before I cut it.
-----Original Message-----
I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers,
for the
baggage compartment;
the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of
these side
pannels.
Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once
the floor is
riveted ?
Am I doing something wrong here ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
No. I would buy a factory-built four-seater, in partnership. I don't think
it would get enough use to own outright. I would fly the two-seater all the
time, though, and that's why I chose the RV-6A.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
>I'm not building BUT!!! anything less than a drilled bolt, castellated nut,
>and cotter key is UNACCEPTABLE practice on anything that is a pivot, The
>best is a Clevis bolt.
>
>Why would you risk your life on anything less????
>
>Cy Galley, Chairman, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
I agree with your statement, but believe that it isn't technically correct.
The joint in question here captures a bearing between two steel elevator
horns. The bearing rotates, therefore the nut and bolt do not form a
rotational joint. According to AC43-13, a bolt with a nylon lock nut would
be acceptable. As another poster indicated, I too would never consider a
platenut in this critical area.
Now to put what is technically correct aside, my personal opinion is that
all hardware within the control system should be with a drilled bolt, castle
nut and cotter pin, whether or not it is a rotational joint. This isn't how
Van's designed the plane, but it is how I built mine. Just because AC43-13
indicates that we may use the nylon lock nut, it by no means indicates that
we must, or that a nylon lock nut is superior to a castle nut.
Scott Gesele N506RV -Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tubing Routing |
Most cabin heat systems take air from the front of the cowl, run it through
your heat muffs, then either bring it into the cabin or dump it into the hot
side of the cowl. This way the air cools the muff either way.
Don't forget carb heat!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 2:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Scat Tubing Routing
>
>In planning my fresh air intake for cabin heat I have two choices; I can
>run the scat tubing from the front air ramp around between the exhaust
>pipes and the cowling and to the heat mufff, or I can run it directly
>under the cylinders between the crankcase and the intake risers (this is
>a tight area) to the heat muff. Which is preferrable? Going around by
>the cowling route puts the tubing within an inch or so of the exhausts
>where they come out of the cylinders. How much heat can the scat tubing
>take? The easiest way of course is to simply take the air off the back
>baffle, but dangers of contaminated air concerns me. Or is this a real
>problem? Could'nt a person just shut off the cabin heat if you start to
>smell contaminated air,such as if oil were burning, etc? Also, this is
>the high pressure side of the engine; if something were smoking, etc it
>would seem more likely to produce smoke on the low pressure side. Just
>thinking out loud. Opinions?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
>
>Hello, do I need an aileron trim system if I have a Navaid autopilot? If so
>how about htoughts on manual verses electric.
>Norman, RV6A, Delta, BC, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
Norman, I beleive it would be a good idea. It wouldn't if you your
airplane flew wings level in cruise and in the let down if you use it as a
safety back up. It will make a lot less work for the autopilot it you are
in trim before engaging it.
I put one in because I am of little faith that I have built that straight.
The best of Holidays!
Denny, RV-6,
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
You are technically correct, but what happens if the bearing stops rotating.
You can't see it not rotating. The bolt then becomes a pivot and then your
nylon lock nut is not safe.
Some times old technology is still best and gives piece of mind.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Push Rod Attachment
>
>>I'm not building BUT!!! anything less than a drilled bolt, castellated
nut,
>>and cotter key is UNACCEPTABLE practice on anything that is a pivot, The
>>best is a Clevis bolt.
>>
>>Why would you risk your life on anything less????
>>
>>Cy Galley, Chairman, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>
>I agree with your statement, but believe that it isn't technically correct.
>The joint in question here captures a bearing between two steel elevator
>horns. The bearing rotates, therefore the nut and bolt do not form a
>rotational joint. According to AC43-13, a bolt with a nylon lock nut would
>be acceptable. As another poster indicated, I too would never consider a
>platenut in this critical area.
>
>Now to put what is technically correct aside, my personal opinion is that
>all hardware within the control system should be with a drilled bolt,
castle
>nut and cotter pin, whether or not it is a rotational joint. This isn't
how
>Van's designed the plane, but it is how I built mine. Just because AC43-13
>indicates that we may use the nylon lock nut, it by no means indicates that
>we must, or that a nylon lock nut is superior to a castle nut.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV -Flying
>
>
-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tubing Routing |
Red tubes are listed for 450 max, double red to 500. You can put a metal
shield if necessary on the tubing spaced out from the tube.
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 2:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Scat Tubing Routing
>
>In planning my fresh air intake for cabin heat I have two choices; I can
>run the scat tubing from the front air ramp around between the exhaust
>pipes and the cowling and to the heat mufff, or I can run it directly
>under the cylinders between the crankcase and the intake risers (this is
>a tight area) to the heat muff. Which is preferrable? Going around by
>the cowling route puts the tubing within an inch or so of the exhausts
>where they come out of the cylinders. How much heat can the scat tubing
>take? The easiest way of course is to simply take the air off the back
>baffle, but dangers of contaminated air concerns me. Or is this a real
>problem? Could'nt a person just shut off the cabin heat if you start to
>smell contaminated air,such as if oil were burning, etc? Also, this is
>the high pressure side of the engine; if something were smoking, etc it
>would seem more likely to produce smoke on the low pressure side. Just
>thinking out loud. Opinions?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Trim & elevator trim |
>Hello, do I need an aileron trim system if I have a Navaid autopilot? If so
>how about htoughts on manual verses electric.
>Norman, RV6A, Delta, BC, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
Norman,
I don't have aileron trim in my RV6 equipped with a Navaid. The Navaid
does a fine job as a wing leveler and aileron trim. There was some
discussion on the list a short time ago and some builders thought an aileron
trim was a good idea to use with a Navaid. I haven't found that to be the case.
If you do decide to go with an aileron trim, I'd recommend Van's manual
trim. It's fast and easy to install when compared to electric trim. We
just installed one in "Gillette Charlie's" RV6A. We were going to install a
Navaid, but after writing the checks for the Bart LaLonde 160 Lycoming,
panel stuff and, in the future, a Hartzell C.S. and prop governor, Charlie
decided to go with Van's manual aileron trim system.
Speaking of trim, I just installed the Gretz electric elevator trim in
Charlie's 6A. I like the installation. Kind of wish I had on on my RV. Of
course, it would be an easy retrofit to the manual system but then I'd end
up with an extra hole where the old manual trim knob was. Mounting the
servo on the rear deck has more appeal to me than mounting an internal servo
in the elevator and was certainly a much easier and faster installation. I
did an internal, electric elevator trim on a Glastar and it was kind of a
pain. (Of course, just about everything on the Glastar was a pain when
compared to the RV series aircraft.)
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
Norman,
You can always trim the ailerons by the tried and
true method first. That is modifying the t/e radius
per vans instructions. If you add weight to the aileron
by installing a trim system you will have to rebalance
the ailerons. You can do without aileron trim.
This is my opinion.
Stew RV4 200 hr Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
If the bearing freezes up, the bolt has the inner part of
the rod end held tightly captive because of the torqued
bolt. I think you would experience at least a very stiff
elevator control ! The inner part of the rod end bearing
would have to rotate between the tightly clamped elevator horns
for any rotational movement. Would a bolt with a castleated
nut rotate or would the inner part of the rod end bearing just
gall between the elevator horns?
Strictly my opinion.
Stew RV4 200 hr Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
>
> winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
> >
> > Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> > a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
> >
> > So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> > around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> > around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
> >
> If you are talking to Van, ask him why $30K for parts to build a Kitfox
> instead of $20K for a certified Cub.
>
> Charlie
)OOPS! I meant: ask him why BUILDERS ARE PAYING $30k...ETC.
I think the real question should be, is there a market, not are YOU
interested. Otherwise, there would be only one RV instead of around 10
permutations.
If I wanted a 4 seater, I'd much rather have a BD-4 than a C-172 just to
avoid non-stop AD's.(not an endorsement of BD-4's, just the only
homebuilt example that comes to mind)
The market is all those guys who just shelled out $2700 for an annual on
a plane that goes 120 mph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
yes
Stan Mehrhoff
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Jacks in armrest |
Getting ready to install my intercom jacks in my 6A . I'm thinking of putting
them in the armrest so the headphone cord won't be in the way. Looking for any
experience good or bad with jack locations. Thanks
Dave Beizer
Moreno Valley Ca
wiring/paint to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
>I made my baffles from scratch ( templates included in the plans) and
>found that was the easy part. The plans and builders manual were totally
>inadequate to finish. A plea to the list with my problems resulted in a
>lister sending me his baffle instructions that were included with Vans
>baffle kit. I found that the instructions were well written and easy to
>follow.
>The only part I had questions about was the finger spacers. I had know idea
what a
>finger spacer was.
Gary,
My hat is off to you for building baffles from scratch. I made the
baffles for our Glasair from scratch. What a pain. When I was building my
six, I was excited to see Van's offered a baffling kit. The kit was well
worth the money in time saved. I just installed the baffling on "Gillette
Charlie's" 6A and the kit is even better than the original. The
instructions are better and Van's has even included pre-cut and punched
doublers for the bolt hole areas. If I were to re-write the present
instructions, I'd do away with all of the abreviations (?) and spell it out.
And, they still don't tell you what "finger spacers" are but it's fairly
easy to figure out what needs to be done. There are still a couple of
places on the baffles that don't fit right but it's pretty easy to correct
the mistake.
According to Von's post, it sounds like the RV8 baffle kit is not as
refined as the 6 kit.
>What I did find is that the air inlet floors and sides differed
>tremendously from the baffle plans and pictures in the instructions.
On my six, I did no bending of the front, horizontal baffles and the
installation worked out fine. I wanted to keep the left, horizontal baffle
flat as this is where I mounted the oil cooler. We haven't decided where to
mount the cooler on Charlie's 6A but are leaning towards the left front as
opposed to the rear left vertical baffle. I don't have any previous
experience with the constant speed cowl installation but it doesn't look
like we'll have to trim much from the front, horizontal baffles which should
leave plenty of room for the cooler installation. I just can't get too
excited about the left rear mounting option. It looks like more work to
mount the cooler at an angle and seal and it clutters up the rear of the
engine. The only advantage that I see is shorter runs of -8 oil cooler
hose. Also, the left front horizontal baffle installation is a lot easier
to fabricate a "fail safe" adjustable oil cooler door.
>This was total trial and error fitting and very tedious. Also the top of
>the baffles need to be trimmed to fit the cowl and this I found was done
>by installing one baffle piece at a time and then the top cowl and
>cutting (the baffle) to fit. Another very tedious operation. Now that I
>have the baffles fitting under the cowl the next step is to modify them
>to accept and aluminum top to create a pressure plenum.
>Gary Zilik
>Pine Junction, CO. -25 degrees F last night.
Getting an even gap from aluminum baffle to top cowl so a good seal could
be made with the baffle material took the most time and was tedious. (By
the way, if I had my installation to do over again, I'd buy the silicon
baffle material even though it cost much more.) We're going to make an
enclosed plenum which means that an even spacing between baffle and top cowl
is not critical so I think this part will go much quicker.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
I would like to close out the year with a Christmas time story, aimed at
those builders who have not yet finished and flown, and who wonder what it
will be like to solo this labor of love once it is time to fire up.
It can also be called "confidence builder and morale boost for the
aspiring".
Much has been said about the wonderful and totally unique flying traits of
the RV group, and you know all that, but what about the take-offs and
landings ?
First off, don't worry too much about take-offs, because it is a choice
you make as to when to go. After all, we are pilots aren't we ?..We know the
basics of how to react.
But landing is different. You must do it at some point, like it or not.
I am sure that if I can do it, anybody can. That is just how good this
design is.
Like so many other builders, I did not keep up my flying while I poured time
and money into getting this thing finished, ready to go,...mine.
I was very rusty, and I read all I could find about RV pilot reports, almost
sent off 10 bucks to get a pilot evaluation on the 6 from a foreign mag,...
but didn't.
When it came right down to it, and I was faced with my first landing, I
never gave a thought to all the words and literature and reports that I had
studied.
What I did was set up my glide angle, watch airspeed, get closer, and land.
Something like that.
I was so brain numb and my face so tired from the RV grin, I could not
relate what I did.
It was about the prettiest landing I have ever made, followed by a bunch
that were best described as "arrivals".
Problem was, I was trained a long time ago to make "dead-stick" landings. I
thought that was normal.
I discovered later, that the best way for me was to try to do what my
checkout buddy told me,............"A....., when you get comfortable, just
try to get your airspeed lower, flair gently about 5 feet up, (wherever that
is), keep the spinner just up about there, add a bit of throttle to smooth
out the airflow just a bit, and let her settle".
That is about it for me.
In the last days of December,when the weather gods were showing a bit of
temper, I flew out from home base in a sharp, spanking wind toward the
coastline. I had a rendezvous to keep. There was a very distinct ceiling at
1500' about as far as you could see, flat as a table top turned upside down.
It was black and roiling, with curious patches of brightness below it, and
moving swiftly across the landscape.
Nature was showing me my absolute ceiling. I bumped my head a few times, but
the headset took it.
The RV reveled in the crisp, very cold air and was going full gallop.
Every now and then a bright ray of sunlight would poke through the dark base
and light up the green below like God's flashlight was playing over the
fields.
It was to me, something like God's own stained glass window. Bigger, more
colorful and more majestic than any I had heretofore seen.
Unfortunately, the flight was a short one. I called in about 5 miles out,
was reading 5x5, cleared number 1. Boy ! that always sounds good.
My turn to final brought me past the runway heading as the wind pulled me
away.
I straightened up and added lots of throttle to land. It was fun, rocky, and
good feeling to spar with nature and this Corsair of a wind and get her down
where and when I wanted.
I was astonished to experience the shortest roll-out ever, and had to open
the tap to taxi in.
It all made for a good laugh among good friends.
At the end of the day I realized that I had made my best landing ever under
the most adverse conditions ever,......my last landing,...and my last flight
in the RV.
She is with a new suitor now....How could I do it ?
Well, I had enjoyed so much of the whole RV odyssey that I had to do it all
over again.
Another RV is aborning and I was broke....So now I am back where I began,
asking,
"What will it be like to solo this magic carpet? Will I master it ? Or will
it master me ?"
You decide.
Years ago, I saw a friend land his 4 tail first with a BIG guy in back.
I said, "that sure looked good"...he said, "I hit tail first, couldn't help
it".
I said again, "Sure looked good to me". I meant it. Just watching an RV is a
treat.
I never bothered with touch and goes. I accepted my landings and called them
keepers. I got much better. So will you.
I am a builder and a dreamer once more.
I will rise one day and fly again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacks in armrest |
I am putting mine in the top of the side panel just aft of the armrest in
the baggage area. This is the one that covers up the flap handle. This
way, the cords will go behind you, rather than beside you, and they won't
tickle your shoulders and arms. IMHO..
Happy Holidays!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 6:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Jacks in armrest
>
>Getting ready to install my intercom jacks in my 6A . I'm thinking of
putting
>them in the armrest so the headphone cord won't be in the way. Looking for
any
>experience good or bad with jack locations. Thanks
>
>Dave Beizer
>Moreno Valley Ca
>wiring/paint to go
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker43rp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jacks in armrest |
I have mine at the aft end of the arm rest on both sides of the fuselage. It
works fine for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
You could consider me a yes on this one..
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | quick poll - YES !! (Bill Benedict, sign me up) |
Well I have built an Rv6A. I am building an RV8A ( wings and tail done ).
And hope Van has the four place ready by the time I complete the rv8a.
However, if they would sell a lycoming O-540 conversion kit for the RV8A,
that might keep me satisified for awhile.
Scott Johnson
scottj(at)ais.net Chicago, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
>I'm not building BUT!!! anything less than a drilled bolt, castellated nut,
>and cotter key is UNACCEPTABLE practice on anything that is a pivot, The
>best is a Clevis bolt.
>Why would you risk your life on anything less????
Yes, BUT!!! I did this on my RV-4 rudder pedals, and, apparently, just getting
in and out broke the cotter pin, it fell out, the castellated nut backed out,
the rudder cable came loose, and I had no rudder and no brakes on that side!!
FOrtunately, this all happened during pre-flight. My RV-4 now has castellated
nuts with cotter keys everywhere *except* the rudder pedals.
Merry Christmas!
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 for sale
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
>Friend of mine took me for a ride in a starduster two. The engine was a v6
>... He figured about $5000 all total
>firewall foreward. Cruse at 3500 rpm and figures thats about 70 mph in a
>car. He is pretty knowledgeable about car engines since he owned and
>operated a filling station.
That doesn't sound right at all. A car on the highway is using 20 to 30 HP,
and a Starduster in cruise would be using probably something over 100 HP.
Maybe the engine is turning the same speed, but in one case it's really
pulling, in another case it's not.
Here's a sanity check. Say the car is getting 20 MPG at 70 MPH, that's 3.5
GPH. In other words, 3.5 gallons per hour are going into moving the vehicle.
Is the airplane burning 3.5 GPH, or more like 10? That's a quick way of
comparing horsepower generated, at the same RPM.
Merry Christmas!
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 for sale
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
I've got the manual aileron trim on my RV-4, and I would not want to fly the
RV without some kind of aileron trim. That said, my
experisence/suspicion/prejudice is that the aileron trim I've got, with
springs, detracts from the exquisite feel of the RV ailerons, and downgrades
that feel to excellent. I'd go with electric aileron trim in a heartbeat
(except on the RV-8, where the electric trim adjusts the spring bias). One
nice thing about aileron trim is that (I don't think) you need both fast and
slow speeds, like you do for elevator trim.
Merry Christmas!
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 for sale
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net> |
> From: "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: quick poll
>
>
I'd pass on a 4-place. If Van's going to sharpen his
pencil, I'd
rather see him tackle an "RV-J" 2-place using a Williams jet
(or a
couple of 'em). Sort of a "poor man's T-33", if that's not
an
oxymoron :)
Bill Lattimer
RV-8 N558RV (reserved)
Still looking for a place to build in WA (living room? :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
I would consider a 4 place RV at some several years in the future.
I would like a 4 place homebuilt some time, and would feel "comfortable"
going with a Vans kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jacks in armrest |
| From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
I put mine at the aft end of the arm rest and it works fine for me.
There was even enough room to put a velcro pad forward of them to hold
the control/battery module of my Lightspeed headset.
Bob Hall
RV-6
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VickremScharma <vickrem(at)megsinet.net> |
YES, Definitely.
Vickrem
----------
> From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: quick poll
> Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 2:44 PM
>
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could
buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big
seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
<< Yes, BUT!!! I did this on my RV-4 rudder pedals, and, apparently, just
getting
in and out broke the cotter pin, it fell out, the castellated nut backed out,
the rudder cable came loose, and I had no rudder and no brakes on that side!!
Fortunately, this all happened during preflight. My RV-4 now has castellated
nuts with cotter keys everywhere *except* the rudder pedals. >>
For the very best adherence to the "belt and suspenders" philosophy, I
recommend buying locking castle nuts from ACS. They are Nylocs with
castellations for cotter pins. I have them on all of my control surfaces.
Pricey though.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jacks in armrest |
<< Getting ready to install my intercom jacks in my 6A . I'm thinking of
putting
them in the armrest so the headphone cord won't be in the way. Looking for
any
experience good or bad with jack locations. >>
Mine are in the far aft position on the armrests and I would do it the same
way again. The control boxes for the Lightspeed 20Ks are velcro'd just above
on the seat bulkhead. Out of the way but easy to energize.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert P. Busick" <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
No. I would be interested in a one seat plane with RV-8 performance. Maybe the
revised RV-3 will be that plane.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
I am installing a Setrab oil cooler remotely on the firewall. I was curious
to anyone who has done this (Check Six?) and what size SCAT tube you ran to
it, and if you had any cooling problems. It seems to me that the 2" is too
small to provide enough volume of air to go the increased distance from the
back of the baffling. Should I use 3"?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hargrave" <Bobby.Hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
Scott:
Webster's II Dictionary:
"baf-fle (baf'el) verb. -fled, -fling 1. to perplex: puzzle. 2. To
frustrate: stymie. noun. A device or partition that stops, alters, or
regulates flow, as of a gas, sound, or liquid."
Sounds like you bought the "verb" kit instead of the "noun" kit. Return it
immediately to Van's and request "noun kit". Your first clue that it might
be perplexing was that George and Becky don't make a video for it. Not
enough video tape in Texas for that one I would guess.
As for Duck's light instructions, dont agree with you. Big pictures,
little words and I got to use sharp pointy scissors and white glue...just
like 1st grade. What else could a man want in instructions! Liked it so
much I bought another one.
;.).
Regards,
Bob Hargrave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
Hi Paul,
I used a 13 row Setrab cooler on my IO-320B1A for my -6A. I originally
mounted it on the firewall, and used a 3" scat tubing. I've still got some
pictures of the installation on my website, at
http://members.aol.com/mlaboyteau/engine1.htm
I've got to sit down and update my site, but now that I've got it flying,
I'm having too much fun to stop! My oil temps this summer hovered in the upper
range with this setup, and I wasn't comfortable with that, so I relocated the
cooler onto the baffle, just above the #4 cylinder. The temps came down to
where I wanted them, now, flying with an ambient temp of 20F, I'm going to
have to block some of it off, oil temp only comes up to 70C in cruise. My main
work now is trying to get the cabin heat to work!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Bob,
You addressed your comments to "Scott", I assume that was me since I was
involved inthe thread but it is not me that is having the baffle problem
(yet). The baffle and Duckworks problems were posted by Von Alexander. I
do hope the noun version of the baffle kit is available when I need it ;->
I agree with you about the Duckworks kit, apparently the older kits (got
mine a year ago) were not as good.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Fuselage ships in Feb
________________________________________________________________________________
YES, FOR THE FOUR PLACE.
ED HASCH
RV-6 N423SH SOLD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
>You are technically correct, but what happens if the bearing stops rotating.
>You can't see it not rotating. The bolt then becomes a pivot and then your
>nylon lock nut is not safe.
>
>Some times old technology is still best and gives piece of mind.
>
As I indicated, I totally agree with castle nuts throughout the control
system. That's how I built mine, and I sleep well at night.
Scott Gesele N506RV -Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller McPherson <mcphersn(at)u.arizona.edu> |
Count me aas a yes, if I ever get the RV-6 finished.
Miller McPherson
Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap ribs question |
I am getting ready to drill the bottom skin of my flaps. In FJ's instructions
it says to attach the short ribs and to get a location for where the spar will
go. My problem is that the short ribs will not fit flush against the spar. At
the bottom of the rib there is a one-eighth gap between the short rib flange
and spar. Also is it necessary for the end of the spar flange to be even with
the end of the skin?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Castellated nuts |
>For the very best adherence to the "belt and suspenders" philosophy, I
recommend buying locking castle nuts from ACS.
>They are Nylocs with castellations for cotter pins. I have them on all of
my control surfaces. Pricey though.
I had a friend install castellated lock nuts & cotter pins on a (Brand X)
flight control pushrod-to-horn connection. The nut was tightened to capture
the rod-end bearing, and then cotter pinned within the specified torque
limits of the bolt. Realize, that the horn did not capture the bearing on
both sides (as in RV's) but had the bearing bolted to one side of the horn.
He could have used a self locking nut, but wanted the redundant safety.
On his FAA inspection, the inspector insisted that the castellated nuts
should only be installed finger-tight and the bolt should be able to
rotate!!! So as not to cause a confrontation, he loosened the nuts to
finger tight, installed pins, and stood back to admire the now-sloppy FAA
approved linkage.
He said the dust had barely settled in his driveway by the time he had the
nuts back to the original configuration.
D. Anderson
RV-4..wings 80%
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louise Coats <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
Hi Paul,
A local RV6A builder has just been through this exercise - he has an engine
from a Robbie 22 with the conial mounts (I don't know the engine
designations) and had a huge oil cooler mounted on the firewall with a two
inch scat tubing to it. This was not good enough so I gave him a Setrab
cooler to try and like Mark he set it on the back baffle of cyclinder #4
and he only has a small hole in the baffle but his temps are always in the
green now whereas they were always in the red before.
L.Coats
ZK-RVL 294.5hr
>
>Hi Paul,
> I used a 13 row Setrab cooler on my IO-320B1A for my -6A. I originally
>mounted it on the firewall, and used a 3" scat tubing. I've still got some
>pictures of the installation on my website, at
>http://members.aol.com/mlaboyteau/engine1.htm
> I've got to sit down and update my site, but now that I've got it flying,
>I'm having too much fun to stop! My oil temps this summer hovered in the
upper
>range with this setup, and I wasn't comfortable with that, so I relocated the
>cooler onto the baffle, just above the #4 cylinder. The temps came down to
>where I wanted them, now, flying with an ambient temp of 20F, I'm going to
>have to block some of it off, oil temp only comes up to 70C in cruise. My
main
>work now is trying to get the cabin heat to work!
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>Broken Arrow, Ok
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris\\Susie" <cmcgough(at)eck.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: flap ribs question |
Does not sound right make sure ribs and spar are not upside down as it should
fit
as snug as a bug in a rug.
Chris RV6 wings Aust
>
> I am getting ready to drill the bottom skin of my flaps. In FJ's instructions
> it says to attach the short ribs and to get a location for where the spar will
> go. My problem is that the short ribs will not fit flush against the spar. At
> the bottom of the rib there is a one-eighth gap between the short rib flange
> and spar. Also is it necessary for the end of the spar flange to be even with
> the end of the skin?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Castellated nuts |
"Darrell Anderson"
This direction from the FAA may not be as silly as it sounds. If the
rod end locks up (particularly in fight) the control forces to move
the controls will be dependant on the torque on the nut. The same
forces will also try to remove the nut from the bolt. This will result
in the cotter pin being sheared and the nut loosening (and then
falling off) and the control forces becoming much lighter (and more
ineffective...). Installing pins rather than bolts suddenly makes more
sense but the joint does need wear allowances to prevent later
problems.
Just my A0.035c worth(allowing for exchange rates).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Castellated nuts
Date: 26-12-98 11:35
>For the very best adherence to the "belt and suspenders" philosophy, I
recommend buying locking castle nuts from ACS.
>They are Nylocs with castellations for cotter pins. I have them on all of
my control surfaces. Pricey though.
I had a friend install castellated lock nuts & cotter pins on a (Brand X)
flight control pushrod-to-horn connection. The nut was tightened to capture
the rod-end bearing, and then cotter pinned within the specified torque
limits of the bolt. Realize, that the horn did not capture the bearing on
both sides (as in RV's) but had the bearing bolted to one side of the horn.
He could have used a self locking nut, but wanted the redundant safety.
On his FAA inspection, the inspector insisted that the castellated nuts
should only be installed finger-tight and the bolt should be able to
rotate!!! So as not to cause a confrontation, he loosened the nuts to
finger tight, installed pins, and stood back to admire the now-sloppy FAA
approved linkage.
He said the dust had barely settled in his driveway by the time he had the
nuts back to the original configuration.
D. Anderson
RV-4..wings 80%
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CIHAPET12(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer drive gear |
Listers: I use the RMI engine monitor, and don't have my engine tach drive
on the 0-360 connected to anything. In conversations with some of my flying
buddies, they mentioned that not having a tach connected to the drive will
actually cause the drive gear to wear excessively, causing the destruction of
the gear, with the parts falling through the accessory case. (Scarry thought)
They mentioned connecting a cable to the tach drive with the sole purpose of
centering the drive gear and putting a small load on the drive gear. A tach
need not be connected on the other end. I have 70 hrs. so far and no trouble
yet. Those of you running digital tachs, what have you done?
Steve Ciha N912TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
The directions for my heated pitot tube specify wire that meets
MIL-W-7139A. Tefzel wire is MIL-W-22759/16. Can anybody enlighten me on
the wire I will need for this pitot tube?
Somewhaere there must be a master list of all mil specs, (wire, bolts,
etc.) does anybody know where this can be found?
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Castellated nuts |
Van's prints call out for a nylon locknut to secure the elevator
bellcrank in place. Because the bellcrank is rotating on the bolt's
axis, should this bolt nut combination be replaced with a
castelated/pinned bolt combo? Am I understanding this correctly?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
Don't tell Kelli I said this, but I can see a 4 place something in our
future. Yes, those seats are usually empty. Baggage. Man, think of the junk
you could haul. Not to mention family, friends. And not have to pay for the
yearly inspection. Can't do anything for two years, though. That was part of
the deal. Too many things around the house went undone while building the -4.
So: my vote? Yeah, probably. Ouch. (Kelli thumping me on the head.)
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (frederic w Stucklen) |
Paul,
I mounted mine on the motor mount on the right side behind #3
cyclinder. I constructed a special bracket and then mounted it using Adel
Clamps. I used a 3" SCAT tube to a custom made fiberglass plentum. Works
very well....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct.
writes:
>
>I am installing a Setrab oil cooler remotely on the firewall. I was
>curious
>to anyone who has done this (Check Six?) and what size SCAT tube you
>ran to
>it, and if you had any cooling problems. It seems to me that the 2"
>is too
>small to provide enough volume of air to go the increased distance
>from the
>back of the baffling. Should I use 3"?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Castellated nuts |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Van's prints call out for a nylon locknut to secure the elevator
> bellcrank in place. Because the bellcrank is rotating on the bolt's
> axis, should this bolt nut combination be replaced with a
> castelated/pinned bolt combo? Am I understanding this correctly?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
No you are not understanding this correctly, the elevator rod
end bearing is sandwiched between the two elevator horn halves.
The push pull movement for the elevator tube comes from rotating
around the bearing surface of the rod end bearing not the bolt
that holds it in place. It is not at all necessary to use cotter
pins in castelated nuts nor is it necessary to use castelated
nuts and fiber lock combinations. A fiber lock nut torqued
properly will not "back off." A bolt that is used to sandwhich
a part such as a rod end bearing should be tight if it is not
tight the bolt can move in the hole causing much more wear
and problems than you are likely to ever get from a bearing
binding. A bearing will not just all of a sudden bind. MY
hanger partner did have his elevator bind but it was something
that we could feel over time. Turned out there was some type
of corrosion in the bearing. Now if he would have had the
bearing loose between the two parts it was sandwhiched between
he may have not been able to feel it and the bearing would
have rotated on the bolt or the bolt in the holes causing
wear, much worse IMO. The only place you need castel nuts
is where the parts rotate around the bolt.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 1989|Hillsboro,Or|jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: flap ribs question |
JFW9855(at)aol.com wrote:
> I am getting ready to drill the bottom skin of my flaps. In FJ's instructions
> it says to attach the short ribs and to get a location for where the spar will
> go. My problem is that the short ribs will not fit flush against the spar. At
> the bottom of the rib there is a one-eighth gap between the short rib flange
> and spar. Also is it necessary for the end of the spar flange to be even with
> the end of the skin?
________________________________________________________________________________
FJ's manual isn't terribly useful, since it was written before
pre-punched skins. Similarly the video. I hadn't found WC's notes by the
time I'd built my flaps, so can't comment on those.
Heavily mark and index everything. Left, right, tip, root, up, down,
front, rear... on both sides. There's a lot of potential here for
mix-ups.
Not mentioned in the plans, but FJ says to cut the hinges to 55 1/2" (my
hinges as received were 60" long).
Mark centrelines on all the rib and spar flanges. Taper the root end of
each spar as shown on Plan 17.
I drilled the bottom skins to my spars first (3/32") , then drilled the
spars to the hinges (3/32"), then finish-drilled skins, spars and hinges
#41.
I believe drilling spars to skins first was a really good idea; the
short FL-404 ribs are about 1/8" too short. If I'd used the ribs as
described in the manual to set the spar's position, I'm sure the holes
through the spar and hinge would not have maintained edge distance
properly. I thought I might have to shim the TE of the short ribs;
instead I bent the bottom skin flange a little to meet the TE flanges of
those ribs. Alternatively, you could unbend and then re-bend the rear
flanges of the small ribs to assure a tight fit.
The angles of the flanges on my spars were a long way out; I had to bend
them to meet up with the front flange of the ribs. Best to do this
before drilling the lightening holes in the spar (in fact, I left
drilling the lightening holes until last because I
figure it leaves the spar a little stiffer whilst working with it). Of
course, the ribs' flanges also needed squaring up.
Drilling ribs to spar and bottom skin: mark and drill #41 the rivet
holes on the front flanges of the ribs. Mark and drill #41 the rivet
hole in the rear flange of the short ribs -- nearer the bottom than the
middle. With the spar clecoed to the bottom skin,
clamp each rib to the spar and skin (line up centreline with holes) and
drill through the skin into the rib.
NOTE: Do NOT drill the root rib to the spar yet. In fact, don't do
anything with the root rib except drill the bottom skin to it #41.
Now backdrill #30 through the short & tip ribs into the spar. Finally,
backdrill #30 through the rear flanges of the short ribs (I used an
aircraft drill through the bottom hole in the front spar and flange).
...
There's more on the page itself, plus some photos.
HTH,
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
Yes , 4 place
N7470U RV6 235HRS.
Bowling Green Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Somewhere there must be a master list of all mil specs, (wire, bolts,
etc.) does anybody know where this can be found? >>
Yes, it available on microfiche (and probably now on CD ROM) and it is very
expensive for the initial purchase and for the subscription to keep it
current. Many companies can't even afford it.
Which ones were you looking for?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer drive gear |
<< I use the RMI engine monitor, and don't have my engine tach drive
on the 0-360 connected to anything. In conversations with some of my flying
buddies, they mentioned that not having a tach connected to the drive will
actually cause the drive gear to wear excessively, causing the destruction of
the gear, with the parts falling through the accessory case. >>
This is true. It happened on two engines at our field that I know of. They
were both on the third or so rebuilds). I think the best way to deal with it
is to remove the drive completely and cap it off, but on my new engine I just
used an Avery cover. Perhaps a Molydisulphide filled 6/6 nylon wear sheet
inserted in the cap to put a slight drag on the drive might help. Sheets in a
variety of thicknesses are available from McMaster-Carr.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
After a 17 Hour drive back from Naples, Florida and arriving at noon today
having left at 7 PM yesterday all I kept saying was "We would have been
home hours ago in the RV!" for most of the trip. My wife AND daughter and
I almost always travel together so a RESOUNDING YES from me ! After I
finish my six I hope to look into building some sort of four place metal.
Probably a Cyclone if Van Doesn't come up with something. And a BIG, BIG ,
THANK YOU to Bill Davis for the ride in his RV-4.5! I still have the RV
grin on! What a plane and what a nice, nice guy!!!!! Wait till you see his
8, It's a masterpiece! Thanks Bill.....Al
PS.. And thanks to Steve Dixon and Jodie and Charlie Kuss for the fun day
in the Boca Rotan area last tuesday....Nice Projects guys! AL
>
>A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
>Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
>a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
>So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
>around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
>around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
> > My main
> >work now is trying to get the cabin heat to work!
> >Mark LaBoyteaux
>
> Mark,
>
> I am just starting on the cabin heat system. Could you tell us what your
> problem is, what you would do different, etc.
>
> Suggestion - reply to the list since I believe there will be a lot of
> interest.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
Well, the problem was no heat with an OAT of -6C! I have a Robbins heat
muff on the Vetterman exhaust. First I tried stuffing the muff with coarse
steel wool, this didn't help at all. After searching the archives, I found
several helpful posts from Bob Skinner and Fred Stucklen. I wrapped a 1/2"
diameter door spring around the exhaust pipe inside the heat muff, after
having to hammer it flat to fit the off-center shape of the muff. Yeah Baby! I
got warm air now! With the same OAT of -6C, the air coming in the cabin is
warm. Now, I've got to go to work on sealing the air leaks in the cabin, to
make the most of that warm air. There were several good suggestions by Mr.
Stucklen. My slider fits and seals very good at the rear skirt, but what I'm
trying to figure out is how to seal the side skirt area. In flight, the side
skirts open out about 1/2" and I can feel air flowing out of the cabin through
this gap. I bought a bicycle inner tube for this, but I'm still trying to
figure out how to attach it. I think I'm going to try some contact cement for
rubber and glue it to the inside of the skirts themselves. Unless I can be
enlightened with something better!? This evening, I went flying with an OAT of
5C, and the air was almost hot. The cabin got very comfortable, even with all
of the leaks. I've got a 2" scat tube running from the rear baffle above the
#3 cylinder down to the muff on the right side exhaust pipe, then up to the
hot air box from Van's. I still haven't put any ducting on the inside, so the
heated air blows straight into the passenger seat area. I bought a 90 degree
2" PVC elbow that I planned on clamping on the inside to direct the heated air
toward the battery box to kind of split the air and direct it at the foot area
instead of at the passengers crotch.
I don't have any provisions for a defogger, and it hasn't been a problem
until the other day when I picked up some ice while testing the cabin heat. It
takes a while for ice to sublimate with an OAT of -6C. I wonder, even with
full heat if it would have helped much anyway, I think the best thing here is
to just avoid the ice.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
On 24 Dec 98, at 15:44, winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
Yes.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | -6 Aileron Pushrod |
Spacers define the left-right positioning of the aft end of the aileron
pushrod, where it attaches to the aileron. Are there thoughts out there
regarding whether it should be centered, inboard or outboard? Couldn't
find it in the plans, although I suspect it is somewhere, like usual. Any
thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
I posted this the other day, and no one responded, so will post it again
with the assumption it was missed. I would like to know the pros and
cons of taking the cabin heat air off the front of the engine baffle,
versus taking it off the rear baffle. It would seem the advantage to the
rear baffle is a short run to the muff, using air that is somewhat
preheated due to passing over the cylinders, resulting in improved
heating, as well as increased airflow due to the shorter hose as well as
the more upright 90degree opening into the scat tubing, versus the more
horizontal positioning of the inlet at the front intake ramp. The
disadvantage is the possibility of getting bad air into the cabin if oil
was burning, etc. Wouldnt it seem that you could smell the bad air and
then shut it off? Has anyone ever had a problem with this? Am I missing
anything? Looking for opinions.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
>
****snip*****
> My slider fits and seals very good at the rear skirt, but what I'm
> trying to figure out is how to seal the side skirt area. In flight, the side
> skirts open out about 1/2" and I can feel air flowing out of the cabin through
> this gap.
****snip****
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A N106RV
> Broken Arrow, Ok
> MLaboyteau(at)aol.com>
Hi Mark,
It may be too late for you since your canopy is already built(but could
be done if careful with the weld heat!), but I thought I would describe
a solution to the flexing problem that I plan on doing. Hope other
builders can use it. Another Oklahoma -6 builder(Bobby O'neal) welded
several tabs on the Wd-640B(canopy frame tube that runs along the side
skirts of canopy) that point down and angle towards the skirt. These
tabs are aprox. 1/2" wide and maybe 1-1/2" long. They are bent to lay
flush against the skirt at the end of each tab. A hole is drilled
through the skirt and tab and a bolt secures the skirt to the tab. Now
you have a skirt that cannot flex out. I have his phone # if you are
interested in talkin to Bobby to see how it seals.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim & elevator trim |
>>Hello, do I need an aileron trim system if I have a Navaid autopilot?
>If so
>>how about htoughts on manual verses electric.
>>Norman, RV6A, Delta, BC, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
>Norman,
> I don't have aileron trim in my RV6 equipped with a Navaid. The
>Navaid
>does a fine job as a wing leveler and aileron trim. There was some
>discussion on the list a short time ago and some builders thought an
>aileron
>trim was a good idea to use with a Navaid. I haven't found that to be
>the case.
> If you do decide to go with an aileron trim, I'd recommend Van's
>manual
>trim.
-
Navaid, the mfg of the auto pilot recommends that you have another system
doing the trimming of the airplane, and I agree for all the reasons that
are in the recent thread on this subject (see the archives).
I also agree with the above statement that the manual trim system is more
than adequate for this purpose.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
>
>I am installing a Setrab oil cooler remotely on the firewall. I was
>curious
>to anyone who has done this (Check Six?) and what size SCAT tube you
>ran to
>it, and if you had any cooling problems. It seems to me that the 2"
>is too
>small to provide enough volume of air to go the increased distance
>from the
>back of the baffling. Should I use 3"?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
Paul,
Since I know that you are in the Phx. area I would strongly suggest that
you do not do a remoted oil cooler installation. It is the least
effective system, and you live in a part of the country where you need
the most effective that you can find.
There is a lot of discussion in the archives about this but in a nut
shell...
My experience is that a cooler mounted on the aft baffle is the most
effective, one mounted on the left side inlet ramp (ahead of the #2 cyl)
is the next most effective, and a remoted cooler with SCAT hose supplying
the air is the least effective.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Side pannels baggage compartment |
>> I received my QBkit rv6a with platenuts on the side covers, for the
>> baggage compartment;
>> the floor cover then would have to rest on the flange of these side
>> pannels.
>> Since they have to be removable, how can this be done, once the
>floor is
>> riveted ?
>> Am I doing something wrong here ?
>>
>
>Bert,
>
>I installed mine per the plans and have no problem getting them out.
>In is a
>little tougher but not hard. One trick is to trim the bottom flange
>(aft end)
>at a 45 - 60 degree angle, this allows the flange to slip under the
>floor with
>ease. I looked into Orndorff's easy way out and thought Van's way
>gave a
>little more support to the floor.
>
>Gary Zilik
>6A s/n 22993 - FAB almost done.
>
>
I agree entirely with Gary.
Installed per the plans the baggage floor is much better supported, and
with minor trimming they can be made very easy to remove/install without
fighting/scratching your paint.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer drive gear |
>
>Listers: I use the RMI engine monitor, and don't have my engine tach
>drive
>on the 0-360 connected to anything. In conversations with some of my
>flying
>buddies, they mentioned that not having a tach connected to the drive
>will
>actually cause the drive gear to wear excessively, causing the
>destruction of
>the gear, with the parts falling through the accessory case. (Scarry
>thought)
>They mentioned connecting a cable to the tach drive with the sole
>purpose of
>centering the drive gear and putting a small load on the drive gear. A
>tach
>need not be connected on the other end. I have 70 hrs. so far and no
>trouble
>yet. Those of you running digital tachs, what have you done?
>Steve Ciha N912TC
>
>
-
I have never heard of this, and I highly doubt that you can count on a
flexible shaft in a tach cable to "align the drive gear". The tach is
driven from a shaft that has a pin in a hole on the end of it. The pin
is installed making a Tee on the end of the shaft which fits into
notches in the end of the cam shaft. This shaft runs in a bushing that
is pressure oiled from the engine oil system with its own seal on the
outside end of the shaft. It is highly unlikely that the "drive gear"
would be more prone to wear since it is actually an integral part of the
cam and is itself being driven by the crankshaft gear.
All of the airplanes we have at Van's with digital tachs, have been
running without cables connected for many hours without any problems.
If anyone has some first hand experience with this being a problem I
would sure like to hear about it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Kits From Vans |
>>So far in this project, the baffle kit runs 1st place for lousiest
>instructions,
>with Duckworks landing lights a close second.<
>
>Von,
>
>Can't help you with the baffle but I found the Duckworks instructions
>just
>fine. Guess we all visualize and process things differently (or maybe
>you
>didn't get all the photos with yours?). My only disappointment with
>the
>kit was the need to cut the lens to size. Seems Duckworks could
>simply
>mold them the right size since the tolerance is not critical.
>
I think if Don could mold them to actual size he would, but if you look
closely at the lens before you do any trimming I think you would see why
they are not. When molding the lens the portion that stretches around
the leading edge area curls the edges of the plexi (it can be seen with a
straight edge). When the builder trims off the extra amount of the lens,
they are removing all of the portion that is not flat after molding.
For this reason, when you cut the lens to size you should not just
measure from one edge and then trim from only one side. You should make
the finished lens from the center portion of the molded piece that is
supplied.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6 Aileron Pushrod |
Just looking at that myself tonight. It is located in the center of drawing
21. The W-618 aileron pushrod is biased to inboard side while the hinge
fitting is biased to the outboard side.
Phil Lehrke
RV-6A
Mounting Ailerons/Flaps
>
>Spacers define the left-right positioning of the aft end of the aileron
>pushrod, where it attaches to the aileron. Are there thoughts out there
>regarding whether it should be centered, inboard or outboard? Couldn't
>find it in the plans, although I suspect it is somewhere, like usual. Any
>thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
Scott:
I was pondering this exact point, when Mark Fredrick told me that his
io-540's were cooling properly with a 13 row cooler in 100 degree
temps...granted we are in 110+ in the summer, so I elected to go with a 19
row. Do you think this larger cooler will make up for the added heat?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
>-->
>Paul,
>Since I know that you are in the Phx. area I would strongly suggest that
>you do not do a remoted oil cooler installation. It is the least
>effective system, and you live in a part of the country where you need
>the most effective that you can find.
>There is a lot of discussion in the archives about this but in a nut
>shell...
>My experience is that a cooler mounted on the aft baffle is the most
>effective, one mounted on the left side inlet ramp (ahead of the #2 cyl)
>is the next most effective, and a remoted cooler with SCAT hose supplying
>the air is the least effective.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
If anybody wants another idea on how to brace the skirt contact me:
arzflyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I would build one without a doubt.......building an 8 ....then it would have to
be....a 4 place!
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
> Vans says they won't build one because for the same price you could buy
> a used Mooney. I think they are wrong and that it would be a big seller.
>
> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | flap ribs question |
I know the answer to the second one. On the RV-6A there is a lot of flap
skin left over. It goes on the inboard end. You trim it away to fit your
fuselage much much later.
Steve Soule
... Also is it necessary for the end of the spar flange to
be even with
the end of the skin?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
The Cessna that I fly takes it off the front. My guess always was that it
was that way so as to avoid the "bad air".
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----I would like to know the pros and
cons of taking the cabin heat air off the front of the
engine baffle,
versus taking it off the rear baffle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
<< I was pondering this exact point, when Mark Fredrick told me that his
io-540's were cooling properly with a 13 row cooler in 100 degree
temps...granted we are in 110+ in the summer, so I elected to go with a 19
row. Do you think this larger cooler will make up for the added heat?
Thanks..
>>
Paul:
Sorry I didn't answer before this! I use a 19 row on the 540. It is adequate
for cruise, but a but small for climb- temps can get to 235-240 leaving PHX in
August, climbing SE bound for home (TX). This cooler should do fine for you. I
woud agree with Scott- stay away from the scat duct.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap ribs question |
>FJ's manual isn't terribly useful, since it was written before
>pre-punched skins. Similarly the video. I hadn't found WC's notes by
>the time I'd built my flaps, so can't comment on those.
IMHO, Frank is wrong here. Many of us need all the help we can
get. Granted, the newer kits have many things like prepunched
holes and cut out lightening holes; but, the darned things still have to
be put together. That's where some of this other information comes
in handy. I admit that the FJ notes didn't do much for me and got me
in trouble once. However, I did get a couple of things out of them. I
also gleaned information from WC's notes. I have the tapes. To me,
a picture is worth a thousand words. Personally, I think anyone
would be foolish to discount any help that is available. That's very
true when one lives where nobody else is building RVs close by.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Wiring the panel and still using the tapes.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
>I would like to know the pros and cons of taking the cabin heat air off the
>front of the engine baffle, versus taking it off the rear baffle.
My cabin fresh air supply is taken off the upper part of the rear engine
baffle. The air travels so fast across the top of the cowl there is no time
for it to get heated. I built a 'Y' junction with a butterfly air shutoff to
direct the air to the two eyeball vents in the panel and this setup gives
off LOTS of air. The shutoff and the controlable metal eyeball vents give
two methods of shutting off 'bad air' (smoke) coming from the engine.
Heat fresh air is taken from the lower section of the right rear baffle and
is somewhat preheated before getting to the (Robbins) heat muff. Puts out
LOTS of heat, even without a spring etc. inside the heat muff. No engine
smells either.
I have thought of other methods of getting fresh air into the cabin but the
present setup works just fine. I do have a NACA vent under the right wing
for fresh air to the rear seat.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
With all this talk about a 4 place, I can't help but think that a 3 place
(6A with a rear-facing rear seat?) might be a better solution.
As I near the completion of my RV-6A, the idea of being able to pickup 2
friends and take them to the farm is very appealing. I know that you can
also do this in a 4 place plane, but I wonder if the engineering and cost
difference would be worth chasing the 3 place idea .
I know there is a 4 place RV-6a out there somewhere, but I understand the
two rear seats are for kids only.
Any thoughts??
Royce Craven
Melbourne Oz
>
>On 24 Dec 98, at 15:44, winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
>> So, If Vans offered a 4 place with RV-8 class performance. Airframe
>> around $15-20K; everything else including a used 0-540 and CS prop
>> around $40-45K, for a VFR total of around $65K, would you build one?
>
>Yes.
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
Listers,
In theory, taking the air from the front of the eng baffle
would always provide good air for cabin heat. However
the possibility of getting contaminated air is still possible
if the scat tube is damaged by abraision somewhere in its
long length or by fire. I could be wrong but it seems the air
pressure in the cowl should be at equal pressure thruout
the upper pressure side. I and alot of others have taken
heat muff air from the back baffle. This makes for a shorter
scat tube run. Yes the scat tube can still be damaged by the
above mentioned ways. I trust that my cabin heat shut off
would adequately shut off any contaminated air long enough
to get on the ground somewhere. This is what you would do
if you experienced a fire of any sort in the engine area.
I also take the fresh air for the cabin vents from the same place.
It provides lots of air volumne. The same holds true, by trusting
the eyeballs to shut off bad air.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
> The
> disadvantage is the possibility of getting bad air into the cabin if oil
> was burning, etc. Wouldnt it seem that you could smell the bad air and
> then shut it off? Has anyone ever had a problem with this? Am I missing
> anything? Looking for opinions.
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
In my opinion, I think that the only way to get "burning oil," or some other
contaminant in the fresh air supply from the rear baffle, would be in the
event of a catastrophic failure of the crankcase, or cylinder, or failure of
the forward crankshaft oil seal. In either of these events, I'm coming down.
Now, when I'm doing a high speed, high g pull up, the edge of my alternator
belt will rub on the inside of the cowling. I can immediately smell it in the
cabin. The first time this happened, I caught a whiff of something burning,
and was quite concerned until I discovered the source of the smell. But, how
does the smell get into the cabin so quick? I've gone over every seam in the
firewall with Pro-seal and high temp RTV. I noticed that the hot air box from
Van's, doesn't seal very well when it's closed all the way. I wonder if this
is where some of the air from the lower part of the cowling is leaking into
the cabin? Or could it be possible that the discharge cooling air flowing
under the airframe might be leaking in around the flap pushrod holes? It
doesn't appear that the discharge air is dispersed enough for it to be leaking
in around the main gear leg holes, but might hit the flap pushrod holes. So I
think that an oil leak onto an exhaust pipe, etc., would wind up leaking smoke
into the cabin, and the difference from front or rear baffle intake would be
negligible. That's my opinion.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
Arzflyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> If anybody wants another idea on how to brace the skirt contact me:
> arzflyer(at)aol.com
>
How about sharing it with the list for all prospective slider builders!!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>The directions for my heated pitot tube specify wire that meets
>MIL-W-7139A. Tefzel wire is MIL-W-22759/16. Can anybody enlighten me on
>the wire I will need for this pitot tube?
22759 wire will be fine . . .
>Somewhaere there must be a master list of all mil specs, (wire, bolts,
>etc.) does anybody know where this can be found?
Some libraries have them but to subscribe to a service that
keeps them up to date is very expensive. We have them on-line
at RAC. If you could give me a list of those you need, I might
be able to run and post them.
Since the mil-specs are being cancellec by the fist-fulls every
week, we can expect to see them replace for new manufacturing
by equivalent industrial specifications . . . not sure how
I feel about this yet. It's always been irksome that mil-specs
created and maintaine and public expense were not widely published
for public benefit. Lots of companies in the "information" business
have made a hell-of-a-lot dollars selling us data we already owned.
If someone like SAE becomes the keeper of the flame for hardware
specs, one would probably have to belong to SAE to have the privilage
of low cost access to the archives. . . . we'll have to see how
this shakes out.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
> Well, the problem was no heat with an OAT of -6C! I have a Robbins heat
>muff on the Vetterman exhaust. First I tried stuffing the muff with coarse
>steel wool, this didn't help at all. After searching the archives, I found
>several helpful posts from Bob Skinner and Fred Stucklen. I wrapped a 1/2"
>diameter door spring around the exhaust pipe inside the heat muff, after
>having to hammer it flat to fit the off-center shape of the muff.
Instead of using a 1/2" door spring, which I would have had to hammer into
place and drive to Home Depot to get, I took a 1/4" dowel, placed it in a
cordless driver/drill and wound .040 safety wire on it, creating a stainless
steel spring the exact diameter and length that I needed. It took less time
to make than it is taking me to write this post.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (frederic w Stucklen) |
Von,
I routed the mine from the baffle area in front of #1 cyclinder. I
thought that the air in the lower cowl might be warmer than the air off
the baffle behind #3 cyclinder, and as you stated, less prone to "bad
air" if another problem were ot occur.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct.
>day, and no one responded, so will post it again with the assumption
>it was missed. I would like to know the pros and cons of taking the
>cabin heat air off the front of the engine baffle, versus taking it
>off the rear baffle. It would seem the advantage to the rear baffle is
>a short run to the muff, using air that is somewhat preheated due to
>passing over the cylinders, resulting in improved heating, as well as
>increased airflow due to the shorter hose as well as the more upright
>90degree opening into the scat tubing, versus the more horizontal
>positioning of the inlet at the front intake ramp. The disadvantage
>is the possibility of getting bad air into the cabin if oil was
>burning, etc. Wouldnt it seem that you could smell the bad air and
>then shut it off? Has anyone ever had a problem with this? Am I
>missing
>anything? Looking for opinions.
>Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com
>http://www.matronics.com RV-List:
>http://www.matronics.com/rv-list List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Archive Search Engine:
>http://www.matronics.com/search List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (frederic w Stucklen) |
Mark,
Anothersuggstion for distributing the hot air in the cabin is to use a
piece ofSCAT tubing with slits in it, and a plastic cap stuffed into the
en. The SCAT tube wire end easily holds the cap in place. Works great.
Glad to hear that my past suggestions have been a help....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct.
>
>writes:
>
>
> Well, the problem was no heat with an OAT of -6C! I have a Robbins
>heat
>muff on the Vetterman exhaust. First I tried stuffing the muff with
>coarse
>steel wool, this didn't help at all. After searching the archives, I
>found
>several helpful posts from Bob Skinner and Fred Stucklen. I wrapped a
>1/2"
>diameter door spring around the exhaust pipe inside the heat muff,
>after
>having to hammer it flat to fit the off-center shape of the muff. Yeah
>Baby! I
>got warm air now! With the same OAT of -6C, the air coming in the
>cabin is
>warm. Now, I've got to go to work on sealing the air leaks in the
>cabin, to
>make the most of that warm air. There were several good suggestions by
>Mr.
>Stucklen. My slider fits and seals very good at the rear skirt, but
>what I'm
>trying to figure out is how to seal the side skirt area. In flight,
>the side
>skirts open out about 1/2" and I can feel air flowing out of the cabin
>through
>this gap. I bought a bicycle inner tube for this, but I'm still trying
>to
>figure out how to attach it. I think I'm going to try some contact
>cement for
>rubber and glue it to the inside of the skirts themselves. Unless I
>can be
>enlightened with something better!? This evening, I went flying with
>an OAT of
>5C, and the air was almost hot. The cabin got very comfortable, even
>with all
>of the leaks. I've got a 2" scat tube running from the rear baffle
>above the
>#3 cylinder down to the muff on the right side exhaust pipe, then up
>to the
>hot air box from Van's. I still haven't put any ducting on the inside,
>so the
>heated air blows straight into the passenger seat area. I bought a 90
>degree
>2" PVC elbow that I planned on clamping on the inside to direct the
>heated air
>toward the battery box to kind of split the air and direct it at the
>foot area
>instead of at the passengers crotch.
> I don't have any provisions for a defogger, and it hasn't been a
>problem
>until the other day when I picked up some ice while testing the cabin
>heat. It
>takes a while for ice to sublimate with an OAT of -6C. I wonder, even
>with
>full heat if it would have helped much anyway, I think the best thing
>here is
>to just avoid the ice.
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>Broken Arrow, Ok
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Empennage Kit and Tools |
A friend asked me to post this for him:
"For Sale: RV-6A empennage kit. Horizontal stabilizer skeleton assembled. No
other work performed. Also tool kit from US Industrial Tool & Supply
including drill, rivit gun, hand squeezer, etc. Tools have only been used to
the extent necessary to complete the horizontal stab."
IMO, the workmanship on the skeleton is very good. Call Bill Langdon @
830-885-7720
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
><< Somewhere there must be a master list of all mil specs, (wire, bolts,
etc.) does anybody know where this can be found? >>
Yes, it available on microfiche (and probably now on CD ROM) and it is very
expensive....
Which ones were you looking for?<
GV,
I'm curious about the wire specs I mentioned in the post and AN509 vs.
AN509C as discussed in a thread last week but otherwise nothing pressing.
I thought it would be a good idea to have a full copy so that I don't have
to post messages everytime I have a materials question. Considering the
$$$, I guess I'll try and find someone locally with a copy or just keep
bugging people with my questions.
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Wings done
Fuselage ships in Feb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
Glad to share. The sliding canopy side-skirt consists of two pieces of
aluminum. The inside piece is joggled to fit on the inside of the plexi-
glass, then lays up against the outside of the canopy frame side rail and
December 19, 1998 - December 27, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gb