RV-Archive.digest.vol-gc
December 27, 1998 - January 02, 1999
finally rides on the inside of the side-
skirts. The two strips are then fastened in some manner(your choice)at three
points: 1. to the plexi-glass, to the side-rail and at the bottom edge of
the strips. You all know this from your drawings, I was just repeating it
for you. NOW the way I "beefed" up the side-skirt was: I used a strip of
025 2024 cut to 23 inches in length and 2+ inches in width. Width will
depend on your application. I "joggled" (bent) the strip to fit up against
the inside of canopy side-rail at the top end, and up against the inside of
the two above mentioned side-skirts strips. The top end is riveted using pop-
type rivets with about 2 inch spacing to the inside of the canopy frame side-
rail. The bottom edge is riveted along with the two side-skirt pieces using
solid rivets. The canopy frame side-rail is curved so you must relieve the
stress of this brace while fitting it to the frame. I cut relief "V"
sections at the top end of this brace strip and that gives the brace the
flexibility to conform to the frame's curve without causing distortion of it
or the side-skirts. Hope you understand my instructions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jacks in armrest |
I put mine in (under) the cross member behind the seats, near the sides of the
airplane. That way the cords are completely behind you, out of the way.
Don't forget to run a 12 V positive wire to the same location of the jacks,
just in case the cost of ANR headseats ever becomes reasonable.
Bruce Patton
596S
Waiting for FAA signoff, on 1/7/99
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | -8 Baggage Hold Door |
For -8 builders
Has anyone come up with an easier idea for drilling the inside foward
baggage door skin than my squeezin my big butt up inside the forward fuse
and drillin from the inside?
Bill (New Year resolutions all point to treadmill) Pagan
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6 Aileron Pushrod |
Thanks, Phil. Nothing on my drawing 21 (rev 13 10/94) shows where the
pushrod should be positioned. What rev is your drawing at?
Alex
>
> Just looking at that myself tonight. It is located in the center of
drawing
> 21. The W-618 aileron pushrod is biased to inboard side while the hinge
> fitting is biased to the outboard side.
> >
> >Spacers define the left-right positioning of the aft end of the aileron
> >pushrod, where it attaches to the aileron. Are there thoughts out there
> >regarding whether it should be centered, inboard or outboard? Couldn't
> >find it in the plans, although I suspect it is somewhere, like usual.
Any
> >thoughts would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
Hi,
Is sealing the firewall accompolished with a bead of sealant around the
firewall from the inside of the fuselage, or is it better accomplihed by
sandwiching the sealant between the firewall and the fuselage skins?
Are both RTV and Proseal acceptable methods of sealing?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron travel stop |
Is it best to wait until final airplane assembly to install the aileron
travel stop on the W-413 bracket or install it while finishing the wings?
Also the instructions say to set it at 30 deg. up aileron. Is there any
reason to change this # slightly one way or the other?
Tommy
6-A Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
>
>Hi,
>
>Is sealing the firewall accompolished with a bead of sealant around the
>firewall from the inside of the fuselage, or is it better accomplihed
by
>sandwiching the sealant between the firewall and the fuselage skins?
>
>Are both RTV and Proseal acceptable methods of sealing?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
Glenn,
Use Tank sealant and it should be placed between the firewall and lower
fuselage skin. I don't think RTV would hold up as well to hot oil or
gas. (Let's just hope not in large amounts!) On the RV8, the
instructions only mention using it along the bottom.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
side rails and seats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
Hi gang,
The big red Harmon Rocket is still in the paint shop in ORLEANS, In. So three
RVs (two 4s and a 3) departed 3SY (Speedway, In.) for breakfast in beautiful
(and cold) Orleans. The weather was hazy, breezy and did I mention COLD?
Clouds obscured the ground in many parts around lake Monroe, but we had parts
to deliver, and a rocket to check on. Not a bad day for late December,
especially if you are flying an RV. Next fly-out is scheduled for "New Years
Day" Jan. 1st, to Nappanee, In. (C03) for a Hangar-Over-Party! Food, Fun, and
RVs !
More details later, so stay tuned to this station for all the
latest.......Gary and N5AJ
PS: If you know someone that would like to come, but they are not on the
list. Give them a call? Thanks, See ya all in Northern Indiana Friday
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I am at |
the stage where I need to decide.
I currently have an RV6A with a 180 HP constant speed prop. I am starting
work on the fuselage of my RV8A and have been thinking about putting a
larger engine in it ( probably a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 260HP). I am not
intending on doing aerobatics. The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR flight
plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude. It
seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches, than
it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
However, I am unaware of anybody putting that heavy of an engine in an RV
with a nose gear. All the 540's and heavy engines in RV's I have seen are
in taildraggers ( uh oh, does that mean the taildraggers are better ...
heheheheh ).
Scott Johnson
scottj(at)ais.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I am going to be flying up to the Gatlinburg, Tenn., area in
February. Is there anything I need to look out for? I don't
know if the hills are enough to worry about. Thanks for any
advice. Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
Where are all the rv-8s putting their elt ant? The best I have heard of is
thru the right hole in the front windshield bow and then along the bow itself.
I have looked at the Radio Shack ant. and there are two types . AM-FM in
either 14 or 34 inch length. Which one to use??????
Ed Storo rv8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / |
RV-8A ? I am at the stage where I need to decide.
>
>I currently have an RV6A with a 180 HP constant speed prop. I am starting
>work on the fuselage of my RV8A and have been thinking about putting a
>larger engine in it ( probably a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 260HP). I am not
>intending on doing aerobatics. The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR flight
>plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude. It
>seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches, than
>it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
>
>However, I am unaware of anybody putting that heavy of an engine in an RV
>with a nose gear. All the 540's and heavy engines in RV's I have seen are
>in taildraggers ( uh oh, does that mean the taildraggers are better ...
>heheheheh ).
>
>Scott Johnson
>scottj(at)ais.net
>
Scott,
I would certainly feel more comfortable putting a turbocharged engine in
than an O-540. The extra weight of the O-540 means a lot of extra
structural loads for the airframe and landing gear. Putting a turbo
charged engine in would certainly require some major cowling changes, but
no more than the O-540 would need.
On a standard day, the air density at 17,000 ft is only 59% of the sea
level density, so your O-540 is going to give 59% power max, or about 150
hp. TIO-360s have critical altitudes (the max altitude at which you can
get sea level power) as high as 25,000 ft (this depends on the model - see
the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/e16ea.pdf). You should be able
to get 75% power (150 hp) at 17,000 ft, so cruise performance should be
about equivalent to the O-540.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Some questions for those of you who have been there/done that:
-What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments? For
2 1/4" instruments? Obviously, I want to minimize this distance but avoid
structural problems or a maintenance nightmare.
-Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found some at
Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've found
some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey.
Replies appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron travel stop |
<< Is it best to wait until final airplane assembly to install the aileron
travel stop on the W-413 bracket or install it while finishing the wings?
Also the instructions say to set it at 30 deg. up aileron. Is there any
reason to change this # slightly one way or the other? >>
30 deg is 30 deg now or later. So if you have a good "in trail" reference for
zero deflection, go ahead, deflect to 30 up on each side and set the stops
now. The geometry of the linkage and bellcranks will take care of the proper
down relationship.
And, no, 30 degrees is more than enough. The plane can't roll any faster IME.
If you feed it in too fast you'll get a bump when the resulting airflow
separation reattaches as is.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Broken exhaust pipe |
Had to make my first emergency landing today... (RV-6A, 105hrs). Shortly
after noticing that #1 EGT was running much cooler than the others, the engine
began running very rough and there was a loud "clacking" noise coming from up
front. After notifying my wingman, Dwain,(RV-6), we headed for the nearest
airport. Upon closer inspection we found the #1 exhuast pipe had broken off at
the flange weld where it bolts to the cylinder. the pipe was laying on the
bottom of the cowl, held only by the EGT probe.
There just happened to be an FBO operator hanging around who knew a welder.
These guys welded the pipe back together and in an hour or so we were back in
the air. LUCKY!
Has anyone else had a similar problem with the Vetterman exhaust system? Am
planning to call Larrry tomorrow, prpbably get a new pipe.
One important lesson learned: I had noticed the #1 EGT running 100 - 120
degrees less than the others while flying last week. Obviously the crack had
started and was leaking exhaust gas, causing the lower temps. I had checked
the spark plugs last night, but did not notice the cracked pipe. Today the #1
was running 200 degrees lower... about 30 minutes before it broke. Next time I
will heed the warnings from my EI scanner, investigating more throughly before
further flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
MICHAEL wrote:
>
>
> I am going to be flying up to the Gatlinburg, Tenn., area in
> February. Is there anything I need to look out for? I don't
> know if the hills are enough to worry about. Thanks for any
> advice. Mike.
>
I flew up to Athens TN, south of Knoxville, about 5 years ago to a Swift
flyin. They don't call them the Smoky Mountains because of regular
forest fires. Not long after my visit the very nice lady who ran the FBO
there (years of experience in the area) flew into a mountain during low
vis. conditions. For this flatlander, the "hills" & haze were
definitely enough to worry about.
It should be noted that I'm not an IFR pilot.
Charlie
flying RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: -8 Baggage Hold Door |
>For -8 builders
>
>Has anyone come up with an easier idea for drilling the inside foward
>baggage door skin than my squeezin my big butt up inside the forward
>fuse
>and drillin from the inside?
>
>Bill (New Year resolutions all point to treadmill) Pagan
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
Bill, since I am the one that originally did a good part of the
development work on the baggage door and worked up the installation for
It I thought I would comment.
It is a little awkward drilling from the inside but their really is no
other way to do it unless you find a way to leave off the firewall or the
F-822 skin while you install the baggage door.
It is very important to drill this skin on in place and to rivet it on in
place also to be sure that the door does not and up with a twist in it.
Even if you follow the instructions exactly it still moves slightly.
I would sure like to hear if anyone comes up with a better way, but we
have done 3 in our shop now, and we have found no other way to do it and
get a good fit on the door.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab cooler Scat Tube |
>
>Scott:
>I was pondering this exact point, when Mark Fredrick told me that his
>io-540's were cooling properly with a 13 row cooler in 100 degree
>temps...granted we are in 110+ in the summer, so I elected to go with
>a 19
>row. Do you think this larger cooler will make up for the added heat?
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
The volume of cooling air that you put through the cooler is as much a
factor of the temp drop you get, as what size cooler you are using.
I.E. a huge cooler isn't going to help at all if you don't have an
adequate amount of air flowing through it.
Figure the cross sectional area of a 3" diam SCAT hose of given #, of
inches long, which is not smooth on the inside and probably has a number
of bends in it getting to the cooler. Then compare this to the amount of
air you are likely to move through the cooler if it is mounted directly
on the engine baffle with a hole sourcing the air that is the same size
as the cooler itself.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
>>Is sealing the firewall accompolished with a bead of sealant around
>the
>>firewall from the inside of the fuselage, or is it better accomplihed
>
>by
>>sandwiching the sealant between the firewall and the fuselage skins?
>>
>>Are both RTV and Proseal acceptable methods of sealing?
>>
>>-Glenn Gordon
>
>Glenn,
>
>Use Tank sealant and it should be placed between the firewall and
>lower
>fuselage skin. I don't think RTV would hold up as well to hot oil or
>gas. (Let's just hope not in large amounts!) On the RV8, the
>instructions only mention using it along the bottom.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 #379
>side rails and seats.
>
>
It's true that the construction manual only mentions putting sealant
around the bottom to prevent intrusion of oil etc., but it is a good idea
to seal the remainder of the firewall in some way.
Every builder should do a light check of the firewall during the final
finishing of there airplane. With the shop darkened have someone pass a
light around the firewall and look for signs of light shinning through to
the inside. If the firewall is properly sealed you should not be able to
see any light at all.
I prefer to do it with proseal after completing the fuselage construction
by putting a bead around the edge of the firewall.
If you can buy an outdated simkit cheap (the sealant cartridge that goes
in a caulking gun device) it is much less messy than trying to do it
while you build the fuselage.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
The center to center distances are done automatically in my panel planner
software, so I can't tell you what they are...if you don't have the
software, get it! www.panelplanner.com
For the switches....
Check out Digi-Key...they have just about any switch, wire, terminal, chip,
whatever...
www.digi-key.com
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 3:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Questions
>
>Some questions for those of you who have been there/done that:
>
>-What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments?
For
>2 1/4" instruments? Obviously, I want to minimize this distance but avoid
>structural problems or a maintenance nightmare.
>
>-Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found some at
>Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
>don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've found
>some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey.
>
>Replies appreciated.
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Aronson, DDS" <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Some questions for those of you who have been there/done that:
>
> -What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments? For
> 2 1/4" instruments?
The 3 5/8 instruments are best kept a minimum of 1/4" from eachother or 3 5/8"
centered. the 2 1/4 instruments are 2 9/16 centered.
White lighted switches can be found from Pacific-Coast @ www.pacavionic.com
If you are laying out your panel then order an Instrument-Quick template from
Aircraft Spruce. If helps with centering. transfering mounting holes, etc.
I hope all of this is helpful.
Dave, RV4 fuselage coming off the jig....finally!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
RV-listers,
As always, the archives and the Tony Bingelis books have the
answer...
****** Feb 98 posting (Archive search "instrument & spacing") *****
>
>
><< Does anyone have full size diagrams of instruments available via the
> internet for downloading and printing in order to layout and plan the
> instrument panel design? >>
>
>I think it's 3/8" of an inch.
The bible vol. II (aka, Bingelis, T., "Sportplane Construction
Techniques") quotes an absolute minimum of 3.375 inches center to center
instrument spacing (for 3 1/8 instruments), but recommends 3.5 inches for
a stiffer panel. Some local RV builders have used the closer spacing and
puchased thicker aluminum for their instrument panels, but the 3.5 inch
dimension gives a little better access for easier installation.
These three books by Tony Bingelis should be on every kitbuilders
bookcase, there is a great wealth of knowledge in them.
Gil (get the Bingelis books) Alexander
... tip-up latch mechanism
*** snip ***
***** end archive posting ******
>
>Some questions for those of you who have been there/done that:
>
>-What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments? For
>2 1/4" instruments? Obviously, I want to minimize this distance but avoid
>structural problems or a maintenance nightmare.
>
>-Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found some at
>Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
>don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've found
>some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey.
>
>Replies appreciated.
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Mike,
I had the wonderful experience two weeks ago of making a 210 mile solo
flight in a nice RV6A with Gatlinburg/Sevierville being the destination.
Your post didn't mention from what direction you will be arriving. The
mountains top out at about 6000'. While that is not too high to hop over
in an RV, the terrain south of Gatlinburg is extremely rugged and
remote. You may be more comfortable with planning your route to avoid
the highest and most remote areas. A sectional should be adequate for
your flight planning.
GKT has a nice long runway; The only strange feature is the high terrain
on the approach end of 28. The threshold is displaced accordingly. The
FBO is nicely furnished and the employees seem to be quite cooperative.
Car rental is also available.
Hope you have great weather; The scenery in the area is great for
sightseeing.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
MICHAEL wrote:
>
>
> I am going to be flying up to the Gatlinburg, Tenn., area in
> February. Is there anything I need to look out for? I don't
> know if the hills are enough to worry about. Thanks for any
> advice. Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Getting started in my apartment? |
I've come to the conclusion that I will be unable to find a suitable
location to begin construction on my RV-8, and I've decided I want to
take a shot at getting started in my apartment. I've been to the
"building an RV in an apartment web site (which I enjoyed greatly! :)
but one difference is that I don't live in a concrete "blockhouse" and
use of a compressor is RIGHT OUT.
It seems that I can do almost all the initial framing work without this,
with the exception of drilling. Is a quality electric drill a
reasonable replacement for an air drill? Any other thoughts or
suggestions?
Thanks!
Bill Lattimer
N558RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Capsteve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | rudder counterweight |
i was watching orndorfs video on the 6 prepunch and noticed that he was
adding a counter weight to his rudder. i know my kit doesn't have this, so
when did they change the kit?? how many of you have rudder counterweights.
if the rudder control forces are low enough to avoid using weights then why
would van have them there originally??
one more..
i was just finishing up my (elevator) trim tab and noticed that the
(electric) trim tab control horn was to be pop riveted on with MD-42-bs
rivets(which i do not have) i do have some msp-42 pops... are they a
substitute? i can actually bang AN rivets into this. not knowing how much
force acts upon the trim tab during flight, i was thinking of using a
doubler plate and solid rivets to hold on the horn. i believe the skin is
only .016 and seems as it will flex a bit even after the ends are bent.
inquiring mimes want to know
Steve DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Getting started in my apartment? |
I found that I use an electric drill almost exclusively. The air drill is
lighter, but has a heavy air line attached! It also makes the compressor
run too much, so ear protection is required. The electric drill is quieter
and lighter overall. I rarely use the air drill now.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuel console
-----Original Message-----
Is a quality electric drill a
reasonable replacement for an air drill? Any other thoughts
or
suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Flyout |
-----Original Message-----
From: PILOT8127(at)aol.com <PILOT8127(at)aol.com>
; jtjhb12(at)gte.net ;
Bill.Foraker@Rose-Hulman.Edu ;
JimNolan(at)kconline.com ; razer(at)midwest.net
; sears(at)searnet.com ;
ds248rv4(at)netusa1.net ; sloanie(at)localline.com
; smidler(at)dcwi.com ;
clayfly(at)iquest.net ; dspencer(at)kiva.net
; HR69GT(at)aol.com ; Jlwatler(at)aol.com
; kwelsh1(at)Juno.com
Date: Monday, 28 December 1998 12:32
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Flyout
>
>Hi gang,
>The big red Harmon Rocket is still in the paint shop in ORLEANS, In. So
three
>RVs (two 4s and a 3) departed 3SY (Speedway, In.) for breakfast in
beautiful
>(and cold) Orleans. The weather was hazy, breezy and did I mention
COLD?<>
Hi Gary,
Unable to make it next Friday, as we are having to much fun enjoying the
perfect summer weather here on the the mid north coast in Australia. We have
had 5 days of eight eights blue, and did 4hrs of pure "RV bliss" flying on
Boxing day!! All the Corsair stories are true!! The Rv lurking just above
the wave tops following the beach from just north of Sydney, all the way to
Port Macquarie, and blowing off a couple of spams along the way. One spam
(C182) said "gee she gets along" and "don't ya get hot in that mate", answer
was "Yes" & "We have A/C, and its very comfortable thanks" (2 x NACA
vents!). He was invited to join in, but declined, as I was almost out of
sight at that point!! On arriving at Port macquarie, I decided to head home
inland and proceeded to climb to 6500ft. I noticed she was a bit slow in
climbing, and turning around I noticed the back seat was occupied by the
spirit nearly everyone one the list form the cold northern hemisphere. Guys
and gals, I was thinking of you all !!. Those still building, keep going,
and as others have said, it's one heck of an aeroplane, and you WILL love
it.
Cheers and tailwinds
Ken (I can feel another beach straffing run coming on- tomorrow!!)Glover
>>as they say, lifes a "Beach"!!
RV4 VH-MKW - Newcastle/Luskintyre(home of the Tiger Moth) - Australia
P.S: Pilot tomorrow is Sam Richards>>South Bend Indiana, who now lives in
OZ. No shovelling snow here in winter, he's sick of it!! Guess I'll have to
do all the waving to the gals on the beach <<>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
I know I'm slow to reply on the 4-place RV question (I only have e-mail at
work), but this was a hot-button for me, since a 4-place aluminum kit was
exactly what I wanted (therefore, put me in the resounding YES column). I
almost went with a Lancair ES, but all plastic kit prices were just too
high.
I attended Oshkosh this year primarily to shop for and choose a kit
project. I spent four days visiting every booth and talking to lots of
builders. I seriously considered the Murphy Super Rebel, but decided
against it because it was much slower with a much larger engine (a 540)
and, sorry for being frank, was just a little bit too dowdy for my taste.
While a wonderful utility airplane, I wanted a sports sedan, not a truck.
One option I also considered that has not been mentioned on this thread is
the new Storm 300 from Italy. Storm had a wonderful display at Oshkosh
(thanks for the free soda!) which included a very impresive 2+2
all-aluminum kit. "2+2" means that it has four seats, although the back
two are more for kids (kinda like the rear seats of a Camaro). But since I
have two small kids, it seemed perfect. The quality of the kit appeared to
be very high, with most pieces pre-drilled and ready-to-rivet. The only
real reason I decided not to go with this was because I would have been one
of the first North American builders, and I was real hesitant to be one of
the first builders being a first-time builder myself. Also, all the plans
were still in Italian and there were only promises of an English
construction manual and plans. But if this kit takes off, it could be a
serious option, since it is a very nice looking airplane.
So, I imagine Vans will develop their four-place just as I finish my 6A,
but that's OK. Whenever the 4-place RV-10 is announced, I'll be one of the
first to sign up. Thanks for listening.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A, rudder and elevators
Marietta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Getting started in my apartment? |
Bill
>Is a quality electric drill a reasonable replacement for an air drill?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?<
Bill,
I use my air drill to final drill prepunched assemblies because I find it
quicker. The cordless however, is much easier to start a hole accurately
(or drill out a rivet) as it is easier to control the trigger for a slow
speed. Many builders use only a cordless drill for the entire project.
Get a good cordless (check the trigger response, my old Craftsman is OK, a
friends Porter Cable is great) and get started!
Scott A. Jordan
80331
wings complete, Fuselage ships in Feb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at t...
I HAVE A TIO540SIAD IN MY RV8 MANY MODS REQUIRED FROM THE TAIL TO THE WINGS
AND FUSELAGE TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Airspeed Question???? |
Folks,
I am attempting to calibrate my pitot/static system (the airspeed
indicator) by using a couple of the techniques using GPS. I have
encountered a situation that is frankly puzzling to me and hope someone
can offer suggestions as to what may be going on or where I may be
screwing up.
The basic puzzle is that when I have collected the data from the GPS and
inserted it into the formulas the results show that from 100 - 180 mph
my indicated airspeed reading is within 1 mph of the TAS values
calculated from the GSP data. The calculated CAS varies from TAS 4 mph
at 105 mph and is 10 mph lower at 180 TAS. If I did not know better I
would say I have a TAS indicator which I know is not the case (No temp
window to set in temp). Here are the results:
"Delta from TAS Calculation"
TAS IAS Delta CAS Delta
100 99 1 97 3
105 104 1 101 4
110 109 1 106 4
115 114 1 110 5
120 120 0 115 5
125 125 0 120 5
130 130 0 124 6
135 135 0 129 6
140 140 0 133 7
145 145 0 138 7
150 150 0 142 8
155 155 0 147 8
160 160 0 152 8
165 165 0 156 9
170 170 0 161 9
175 175 0 165 10
180 180 0 170 10
Any insight into this situation would be appreciated.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Some questions for those of you who have been there/done that:
>
> -What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments? For
> 2 1/4" instruments?
Kyle I bought the instrument template from AS&S. It automatically
spaces the instruments. I used it on my --4. Only costs $9.95. Page 345
In new catalog.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Question???? |
>
>Folks,
> I am attempting to calibrate my pitot/static system (the airspeed
>indicator) by using a couple of the techniques using GPS. I have
>encountered a situation that is frankly puzzling to me and hope someone
>can offer suggestions as to what may be going on or where I may be
>screwing up.
>
>The basic puzzle is that when I have collected the data from the GPS and
>inserted it into the formulas the results show that from 100 - 180 mph
>my indicated airspeed reading is within 1 mph of the TAS values
>calculated from the GSP data. The calculated CAS varies from TAS 4 mph
>at 105 mph and is 10 mph lower at 180 TAS. If I did not know better I
>would say I have a TAS indicator which I know is not the case (No temp
>window to set in temp). Here are the results:
>"Delta from TAS Calculation"
>TAS IAS Delta CAS Delta
>100 99 1 97 3
>105 104 1 101 4
>110 109 1 106 4
>115 114 1 110 5
>120 120 0 115 5
>125 125 0 120 5
>130 130 0 124 6
>135 135 0 129 6
>140 140 0 133 7
>145 145 0 138 7
>150 150 0 142 8
>155 155 0 147 8
>160 160 0 152 8
>165 165 0 156 9
>170 170 0 161 9
>175 175 0 165 10
>180 180 0 170 10
>
>Any insight into this situation would be appreciated.
>
>Ed Anderson
Ed,
Assuming that all you calculations are correct, there is not necessarily
anything strange going on here. Your airspeed system is reading high, due
to a combination of instrument error and position error in the static
source. The amount of error just happens to about equal the difference
between CAS and TAS at the altitude and temperature at which you did your
testing. This would not be the case at other alitudes or temperatures.
Did you have a calibration done on your airspeed indicator? Did you factor
that into your calcultions?
Please describe your static source. At first glance your static source is
seeing too low a pressure, which will also cause your altimeter to read too
high (on the order of 120 ft at 170 mph CAS).
I would be happy to check your calcultions if you want (I'm at my in-laws
for 10 days and looking for things to do - sure wish I was home building).
Just send me the raw data that you used. Send it direct so we don't
clutter up the list.
I may have to get you to bring your plane up to Green Bay so we can do a
few hours of flying and sort this thing out :-)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
<< -Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found some at
Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've found
some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey. >>
Try getting a Carlingswitch catalog. They are listed in the Yeller Pages.
Wicks ordered mine for me, as they don't sell direct. Carlingswitch is the
manufacturer of the familiar split rocker master switch.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
dubject: Re: RV-List: rudder counterweight
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>i was watching orndorfs video on the 6 prepunch and noticed that he was
>adding a counter weight to his rudder. i know my kit doesn't have this, so
>when did they change the kit?? how many of you have rudder counterweights.
>if the rudder control forces are low enough to avoid using weights then why
>would van have them there originally??
The Orndorf emp video covers both the -6 and -8. The counter weight you see
is done on the -8 rudder but not on the -6.
If you watch the video as many times as I did, you'll catch George commenting
that they were building a -8 but the steps work for the -6 as well.
As to why the -8 uses counter weights on the rudder and not the -6, I know not,
other than to guess at larger engine operations and more aerobatics are
intended/expected.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Assembling wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
I am trying to install my vertical stab and have found a problem, I would like
to know if others have had the same and what they did to fix it.
At the attach of the fwd vertical stab spar to the fwd horizontal stab spar,
there is a miss fit of about 1/2 inch and the F-681 will not make up the gap.
The vertical stab fwd spar is too far forward. One suggestion I was given was
to cut off the vertical stab spar about 1" and then it would fit. How many
people had to do that? Is this right? I don't want to cut anything without
asking a few questions first.
Scared to Cut
Cameron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting started in my apartment? |
Bill;
Using an electric drill should be no problem; its the riveting that
creates the problem.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I've come to the conclusion that I will be unable to find a suitable
>location to begin construction on my RV-8, and I've decided I want to
>take a shot at getting started in my apartment. I've been to the
>"building an RV in an apartment web site (which I enjoyed greatly! :)
>but one difference is that I don't live in a concrete "blockhouse" and
>use of a compressor is RIGHT OUT.
>
>It seems that I can do almost all the initial framing work without
>this,
>with the exception of drilling. Is a quality electric drill a
>reasonable replacement for an air drill? Any other thoughts or
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Bill Lattimer
>N558RV (reserved)
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Scott;
Would you recommend sealing the edge of the firewall from the inside or
the outside? This brings up another question; How heat resistant is
Pro-Seal? Have a couple of spots in the engine compartment I would like
to use it.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>>>Is sealing the firewall accompolished with a bead of sealant around
>>the
>>>firewall from the inside of the fuselage, or is it better
>accomplihed
>>
>>by
>>>sandwiching the sealant between the firewall and the fuselage skins?
>>>
>>>Are both RTV and Proseal acceptable methods of sealing?
>>>
>>>-Glenn Gordon
>>
>>Glenn,
>>
>>Use Tank sealant and it should be placed between the firewall and
>>lower
>>fuselage skin. I don't think RTV would hold up as well to hot oil or
>>gas. (Let's just hope not in large amounts!) On the RV8, the
>>instructions only mention using it along the bottom.
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 #379
>>side rails and seats.
>>
>> > It's true that the construction manual only mentions putting
>sealant
>around the bottom to prevent intrusion of oil etc., but it is a good
>idea to seal the remainder of the firewall in some way. Every builder
>should do a light check of the firewall during the final finishing of
>there airplane. With the shop darkened have someone pass a light
>around the firewall and look for signs of light shinning through to
>the inside. If the firewall is properly sealed you should not be able
>to
>see any light at all.
>I prefer to do it with proseal after completing the fuselage
>construction by putting a bead around the edge of the firewall. If you
>can buy an outdated simkit cheap (the sealant cartridge that goes
>in a caulking gun device) it is much less messy than trying to do it
>while you build the fuselage.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect
>the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>http://www.matronics.com RV-List:
>http://www.matronics.com/rv-list List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Archive Search Engine:
>http://www.matronics.com/search List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
Do any of you guys have the RMI Monitor and the Fuel flow Sensor? What is
a sucessful location of the Sensor? The book says, "there should be a
reasonable length of straight line between the sensor inlet and the first
valve, elbow or other turbulence producing devices."
I am trying to puzzle out the what is a "reasonable straight Line". If it
would be more accurate to locate it before the electric fuel pump. It must
also be mounted with the wires up it says.
Anyone had some experience with this installation?
Have a Great New Year!
Denny, RV-6,
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
{{I am trying to install my vertical stab and have found a problem, I would
like
to know if others have had the same and what they did to fix it.
At the attach of the fwd vertical stab spar to the fwd horizontal stab spar,
there is a miss fit of about 1/2 inch and the F-681 will not make up the gap.
The vertical stab fwd spar is too far forward. One suggestion I was given was
to cut off the vertical stab spar about 1" and then it would fit. How many
people had to do that? Is this right? I don't want to cut anything without
asking a few questions first.
Scared to Cut
Cameron}}
Cameron,
Just started a QB 6 and ran across included instructions form Van's relative
to your problem. They include a page to quickbuilders that address some
"misfits" in the attachment joints of the VS and the F-681 splice plate.
Drawings are included. They suggest a shim for your problem of 1/2" gap. They
advise that " any additional materials will of course be supplied by Van's at
no charge".
Anyway, a call to Van's will help. If not contact me off list at
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com and I will send you copies.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV-6 QB "priming everything in sight"
198RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight' cowl
version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner plate.
Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible engine
misalignment. I have checked the relationship of the prop spacer flange to
the fuselage reference (uppr stringer) and found them to be at 90 deg. Do I
have a problem?? I can shim the engine or the mount but am not sure if that
is a proper procedure. I think it would get rid of the gap. Does anybody
have any suggestions?
Randy Lea
rllea(at)aol.com
sitting on the gear, waiting for a hangar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Flyout |
All the Corsair stories are true!! The Rv lurking just above
>the wave tops following the beach from just north of Sydney, all the way to
>Port Macquarie, and blowing off a couple of spams along the way.
(much snipped) Hey ! Hey !..way to go Ken ! What a blast ! That speed
over the beach is something reserved only for deserving RVers !....I never
tire of it !
>and gals, I was thinking of you all !!. Those still building, keep going,
>and as others have said, it's one heck of an aeroplane, and you WILL love
>it.
This has been my theme song ! Keep the rivet bashers pumped up !
For many, there is no outside encouragement (some of us are even told we're
a bit nuts).....The reward is out there waiting...get at it and go for it.!!
Best Wishes for a great New Year to all you listers !.............
Northwest Corsair Fighter Group.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroelectric Connection |
Listers,
I'm currently hanging my engine, have most of the electric goodies in hand,
and giving serious thoughts on how to hook it all up.
I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
Several months ago Bob Nuckoll's mentioned a ready-made harness for the
RV-6. Several requests for more info from nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com have
gone unanswered, does anyone know the status of this project since I'll be
ready for initial wiring shortly?
Regards,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, hanging engine).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
<< Do any of you guys have the RMI Monitor and the Fuel flow Sensor? What is
a sucessful location of the Sensor? The book says, "there should be a
reasonable length of straight line between the sensor inlet and the first
valve, elbow or other turbulence producing devices."
Any fuel flow measuring device will have this passage in the instructions. In
fact, most (aircraft fuel) flow measuring devices use this same sensor. Be
sure to calibrate your particular setup after installation.
I am trying to puzzle out the what is a "reasonable straight Line". If it
would be more accurate to locate it before the electric fuel pump. It must
also be mounted with the wires up it says.
I went to a lot of trouble to make a trombone (very wide "S") sort of fuel
line to have that length of "reasonable striaght line". No luck.
Anyone had some experience with this installation?
Yes: All bad! Seriously, most (some?) factory installations have this device
on top of the engine, in the line leading from the throttle body to the flow
divider.This seems to be the best place, and allows a substantial length of
hose before the sensor. I have had good luck with equal readings with boost
pump on or off with the sensor mounted in this fashion (Lyc 540). I have also
seen this sensor mounted vertically on the rear of the engine, and this worked
fine, producing even readings with boost on or off (again, Lyc 540).
Carburetor equipped engines, and their associated lower pressure fuel systems,
seem to be less prone to trubulence in the fuel system. I know of one fellow
who had the sensor installed in the line between the mech pump and the carb
(O-320). Against my judgement and experience, the thing worked fine! I suppose
this is a good indicator of my knowledge!
To test my installations, I start the engine, and let the flow indication
stabilize at idle. Hit the boost pump switch, and watch for a different stable
reading (2.1 GPH, which changes to 3.4 or so). WIth the sensor on top, no
change is observed- not even a momentary flicker.
Please post how you overcome this dilemma- I know I'd like to know how you do
it.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
>Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight' cowl
>version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner plate.
>Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible engine
>misalignment.
My 'light weight' "S" cowl for a 6A with Lycoming O-360-A1A and constant
speed prop has the same problem - the gap between the spinner backing plate
and the cowl's forward facing flange around the prop shaft increases about
3/8 from top to bottom.
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
Let the engine "hang" for at least 30 days...all engines when put ona new
installation will sag a bit after a while...also i assume you havn't run it yet,
do so if you can...things will tend to shake out, and align themselfs...If you
measure the coul and don't wait, you will have to do it again.....jolly
RLLEA(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight' cowl
> version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner plate.
> Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible engine
> misalignment. I have checked the relationship of the prop spacer flange to
> the fuselage reference (uppr stringer) and found them to be at 90 deg. Do I
> have a problem?? I can shim the engine or the mount but am not sure if that
> is a proper procedure. I think it would get rid of the gap. Does anybody
> have any suggestions?
>
> Randy Lea
> rllea(at)aol.com
> sitting on the gear, waiting for a hangar.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | I/O 360 200HP in my RV4 |
I have a Lyc I/O 360 200HP angle valve engine in my RV4. I have just
finished the cowling. All who have seen it so far think it is exceptional.
It is fully custom made from molds built on the aircraft from scratch. I
wanted to design it to fit. I expect it will also fit the standard O 360 180
HP engines but have not tried it yet. I had not really planned to sell the
cowl but everyone who sees it says I should.
The cowl is made from a mold process using dry pre-preg lay-ups and baked to
a finished component. This process keeps the finished part very light and
very precise. The cowling manufacturer is Composites Unlimited (makers of
the Giles 200 & 202 aircraft as well as many other aircraft).
The first cowl was made for my RV4 in carbon fiber. The top and bottom
shells are amazingly strong and weigh less than 10 lbs. together. The cowl
can be made of fiberglass, carbon fiber or kevlar materials (cost being the
differential, affecting weight and strength). The design includes matching
trailing cheeks and 14" spinner. The intention is to fit either a parallel
or angle valve engine while maintaining a very close fit and trim look. It
will fit a fixed prop with short 2 1/4" ext, standard Hartzell HC-C2Yl short
hub. I am planning to use a very short hub MT composite constant speed prop
on my RV4. The aerobatic folks say the short hub is important for unusual
attitude changes and such.
I plan to develop and make available both exhaust and intake pipes to fit
the very tight cowl. This will be done with jigs and welded professionally.
All the cowling and spinner blank parts are available now.
More info and are pictures available. I can E-mail development pictures of
the plug to show what it looks like. Should have pictures of the cowl
mounted on my RV in a week or so.
Interested parties can contact:
Mike Wilson
35465 Firway Lane
St Helens, OR 97051
Phone evenings: 503-397-6207
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
My RV-8 cowling also does this; about 1/4" wider at bottom than top, but
I figure by the time the engine sags a little, it will be perfect!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>>Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight'
>cowl
>>version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner
>plate.
>>Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible
>engine
>>misalignment.
>
>My 'light weight' "S" cowl for a 6A with Lycoming O-360-A1A and
>constant
>speed prop has the same problem - the gap between the spinner backing
>plate
>and the cowl's forward facing flange around the prop shaft increases
>about
>3/8 from top to bottom.
>
>
>Bob Haan
>bhaan(at)easystreet.com
>Portland, OR
>RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)gte.net> |
Could some of the listers reply with their BEWs for their 6's and 8's?
I'm not exactly "FAA Standard" weight (I understand that if I get ramp
checked, I can get a ticket for this...:-) and want to ENSURE that I can
stay within the aerobatic gross for an -8. The sample plans list 1069#;
curious as to the reality of that weight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
I had to cut my forward spar just like recommended. It is not an easy thing
to do to bring a cut off wheel to that piece. just be sure that you do not
cut too much at first (don't ask me how I know). Cut off a little bit at a
time, and make a splice plate out of some scrap. (the same thickness, of
course) I ended up cutting it well above the spar and fabricated a new
plate with the same bend angle to it, and spliced it in with a bunch of
rivets. I called Van's on this, and they said it is normal.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
Kyle wrote
-What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments? For
2 1/4" instruments? Obviously, I want to minimize this distance but avoid
structural problems or a maintenance nightmare.
There's an article in the OPctober, 92 Sport Aviation that talks all about
this, and shows how to do layout very simply on your computer. The sample
panel is an RV-4.
Enjoy!
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 for sale
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> I am trying to puzzle out the what is a "reasonable straight Line". If it
> would be more accurate to locate it before the electric fuel pump. It must
> also be mounted with the wires up it says.
>
Danny, I called Ron Mowrer about this very thing. He said about 6".
This was about a year or more ago.
Regards --- Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
This is for all the minivan driver wannabes since we're still on this poll
about the virtues aviation's equivalent to the Family Truckster. The
original post stipulated a finished flying cost almost exactly equal to the
cost of two completed RV-4s. At least one poster pointed out a few of the
advantages of a twin (without mentioning the obvious disadvantages). We've
even had some discussion of constant chord horisontal stabilizers and larger
vertical surfaces.
I can't be the only one on this list who has seen a picture of the Twin
Mustang. I submit that you need look no further. You already have a four
place Van's kit in the form of a twin-4 or twin-8. You just don't have the
plans and will have to fabricate a few parts from the material left over.
How tough could it be?
I don't mean to encourage further discussion as much as to point out that if
you really want burn twice the fuel to drag twice the weight around while
carrying a little more load at a little slower cruise speed, the parts are
already available.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
o.com>
>Several months ago Bob Nuckoll's mentioned a ready-made harness for the
>RV-6. Several requests for more info from nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com have
>gone unanswered, does anyone know the status of this project since I'll be
>ready for initial wiring shortly?
Sorry to be so unaccessable lately . . . between a fire-fighting
job at RAC, the death of my wife's grandmother and the holidays,
I've been lax in keeping up with my e-mail.
The turn-key wire kit design is moving forward. We'll be sending
drawings out for quote on switch panel bezels in about a week.
I'm also beginning to order the long lead time materials. I can't
advise anyone to wait on this product. We'd very much like to have
it in an airplane at Sun-n-Fun but can't predict the creative
effort that tightly.
re: Fastons . . . one of my subscribers is a pilot for the
airlines and he tells me that some of the Airbus products
are beginning to use them too.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting started in my apartment? |
Bill:
What is your timeframe 'till you have a shop? It may be more productive for
you to get setup and build in the same place. I would not want to move any
of my project after you get started. Granted, I have a quickbuild that
fills up my two car garage, but the point is there is a lot of things you
buy, nifty little things you do to store stuff, etc...Talk to Tim Lewis
about this..he moved his whole kit across the country.
Not to mention, you can't really do much without a compressor. You need to
rivet, soon. You also need to cut angle, soon. If noise is a problem, you
won't be able to do much at all, so it may be worth it to wait until you
have a shop.
IMO,
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
Thanks ya guys! I am powering with a carb'd O-320 (for this airplane, who
know on the next. I have dreams), I am putting my filter (gascolator) in
the left wing root. My therory is to have it in a cool place and be able
flush it on preflight. This spot satisfies both of my desires. From the
engine supply side of the selector I returned out to the left wing root and
the filter, then brought the line back into the cabin for the route to the
firewall. I cut 1" holes in the fuselage at the wing root and selector
support for all the lines and used 1 1/4" elastic grommets from ASC to make
it easy to remove the lines in the future.
After returning to the cabin with the line I am vacillating on whether to
put the fuel flow sensor in the cabin and then exit thru the firewall for
the electric fuel pump or the other way around. It would seem to me that
it would disturb the fuel flow sensor least if it came first as it appears
they are very sensitive. I would follow the suggested way and put the pump
in the cabin except for the above reason.
I would have liked to put the filter in the right wing for ease of running
the fuel line to the carb. The 'in' line is a straight shot on my carb
from the right side of the firewall. I am concerned on bend I will have to
make for left side and around to the right side of the carb.
Have a Great New Year!
Denny, RV-6,
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
I have seen at Oscosh, people who make beautiful wooden instrument
panels. I have some walnut boards that would make a nice panel, but
what thickness do you make the panel. Has anybody ever put a wooden
instrument panel in their rv-6(a) and how well does it hold up from
the shrinking and expanding.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
>
>Thanks ya guys! I am powering with a carb'd O-320 (for this airplane, who
>know on the next. I have dreams), I am putting my filter (gascolator) in
>the left wing root....
>After returning to the cabin with the line I am vacillating on whether to
>put the fuel flow sensor in the cabin and then exit thru the firewall for
>the electric fuel pump or the other way around
I did a search for "floscan" in the archives, and there's a message from
Matt Dralle which describes his recommendation for the Fuelscan unit.
Basically right after the fuel selection valve, and before everything else
(i.e. gascalator, fuel pumps, etc). Since the fuel is unfiltered at this
location, a small inline filter should be used between the selector valve
and Floscan.
Regarding the gascalator, the wing root is the perfect spot for it. My
engine supplier recommended this location to me, after having flown this
setup for years in his RV-6. You don't have to run the boost pump to check
it...it stays cool (I suspect this is especially advantageous for auto-fuel
use)...its the lowest point in the fuel system for conventional gear
configuration.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
Dan,
IMHO, you would be best off to glue a wood veneer to your aluminum panel.
This would provide the beauty your looking for without the wood movement
problems that you mentioned. I solid wood panel could cause a number of
problems with rear mounted guages that would sit a bit back in the panel
which would necessarily be thicker than an aluminum panel.
Regards,
Doug Hormann
RV-6 empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 3:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Wooden Instrument Panel
>
>I have seen at Oscosh, people who make beautiful wooden instrument
>panels. I have some walnut boards that would make a nice panel, but
>what thickness do you make the panel. Has anybody ever put a wooden
>instrument panel in their rv-6(a) and how well does it hold up from
>the shrinking and expanding.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
Usually, the panel is overlaid with a veneer of wood. Or they use a decal
that looks like wood.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 5:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Wooden Instrument Panel
>
>I have seen at Oscosh, people who make beautiful wooden instrument
>panels. I have some walnut boards that would make a nice panel, but
>what thickness do you make the panel. Has anybody ever put a wooden
>instrument panel in their rv-6(a) and how well does it hold up from
>the shrinking and expanding.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
But you have to remove the wing fairing to clean the gascolator when it
could be under the cowl where you might look at it more often. What ever
you do, make sure to clean the gascolator after the first flight.
-----Original Message-----
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow Sensor Location?
>
>Thanks ya guys! I am powering with a carb'd O-320 (for this airplane, who
>know on the next. I have dreams), I am putting my filter (gascolator) in
>the left wing root. My therory is to have it in a cool place and be able
>flush it on preflight. This spot satisfies both of my desires. From the
>engine supply side of the selector I returned out to the left wing root and
>the filter, then brought the line back into the cabin for the route to the
>firewall. I cut 1" holes in the fuselage at the wing root and selector
>support for all the lines and used 1 1/4" elastic grommets from ASC to make
>it easy to remove the lines in the future.
>
>After returning to the cabin with the line I am vacillating on whether to
>put the fuel flow sensor in the cabin and then exit thru the firewall for
>the electric fuel pump or the other way around. It would seem to me that
>it would disturb the fuel flow sensor least if it came first as it appears
>they are very sensitive. I would follow the suggested way and put the pump
>in the cabin except for the above reason.
>
>I would have liked to put the filter in the right wing for ease of running
>the fuel line to the carb. The 'in' line is a straight shot on my carb
>from the right side of the firewall. I am concerned on bend I will have to
>make for left side and around to the right side of the carb.
>
>
>Have a Great New Year!
>Denny, RV-6,
>Lebanon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting started in my apartment? |
Bill Lattimer wrote:
>
>
> I've come to the conclusion that I will be unable to find a suitable
> location to begin construction on my RV-8, and I've decided I want to
> take a shot at getting started in my apartment. I've been to the
> "building an RV in an apartment web site (which I enjoyed greatly! :)
> but one difference is that I don't live in a concrete "blockhouse" and
> use of a compressor is RIGHT OUT.
>
> It seems that I can do almost all the initial framing work without this,
> with the exception of drilling. Is a quality electric drill a
> reasonable replacement for an air drill? Any other thoughts or
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill Lattimer
> N558RV (reserved)
>
Bill,
The electric drills will do for drilling and countersinking but you will
quickly be to a point to where you will need to drive rivets in those
holes! Depending on your decision on primer, you may need a compressor
to spray it on. I have an oil-less compressor which is definately not
what you would need. When it cranks up, sounds like all hell break'n
loose!! Look for an oil-type compressor that has a belt driven
compressor, these are quieter. Some stores have them set up where they
can be tested. There has been a thread here lately on the Quincy
compressor that suggests it is quiet and of high quality for around
$350. You can check the archieves on that one.
Good luck on your -8,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Getting started in my apartment? |
>
>I've come to the conclusion that I will be unable to find a suitable
>location to begin construction on my RV-8, and I've decided I want to
>take a shot at getting started in my apartment. I've been to the
>"building an RV in an apartment web site (which I enjoyed greatly! :)
>but one difference is that I don't live in a concrete "blockhouse" and
>use of a compressor is RIGHT OUT.
>
>It seems that I can do almost all the initial framing work without this,
>with the exception of drilling. Is a quality electric drill a
>reasonable replacement for an air drill? Any other thoughts or
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Bill Lattimer
>N558RV (reserved)
>
Bill,
I did a project visit on a local EAA member that is building his
Glastar in his condo. His unit has two levels and he put the air
compressor on a carpet on a wooden platform suspended from springs
inside a fully carpeted and insulated box. When it comes on you
barely hear (or feel) it.
Since you only need a minimal amount of air for the rivet gun a small
air compressor would be fine.
I built my RV-6 using battery drills. Didn't even buy an air drill
until long after the -6 was flying. I had the Makita unit that used
the 9.6 volt batterys. By the time the battery ran down it was time
for a break, anyway. It only takes 15 to 30 minutes to charge the
batterys.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder counterweight |
***snip***
Capsteve wrote:
>
>
> i was watching orndorfs video on the 6 prepunch and noticed that he was
> adding a counter weight to his rudder. i know my kit doesn't have this, so
> when did they change the kit?? how many of you have rudder counterweights.
> if the rudder control forces are low enough to avoid using weights then why
> would van have them there originally??
>
****snip***
> Steve DiNieri
>
Steve,
George is actually building a -8 empennage in the video. The -6 and -8
use the same empennage except the -8 rudder has counterweights where the
-6 doesn't.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
I want to thank everyone for their help. I did call Tom at Vans and he
explaned that they had included a sheet of paper with my kit that will help me
with the problem. Tom had also gave me some verbal tips as well, I bet he
hates customers like me, you couldn't tell by talking to him though, he was
very nice and helpfull.
After Tom had told me the answer is in my own shop, I went and looked. I bet
you can't guess what I found, I've been humbled once again. On the supplement
instruction sheet there are a few ways to fix the problem. I ended up building
a new F-681 with a 2 1/4" leg on top and a 4" on bottom. This reduced the gap
to .063", after fitting this all together I have a better understanding of
what is going on here. Someone had made a note to say; Don't preload the stab.
Well I can say that I have not preloaded anything the the fit is good. Of
course it took all day to install the stab, If I can say anything is don't
hurry and always ask before cutting.
Thank You all again
Cameron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence Groom" <lwgroom(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | What can I do Pre-Wing Jig? |
Hello all,
I've decided to restart my project (after 2 years) in my garage and wanted
to ask the those who are past the wings on their projects a question. I'm
half way thru the right elevator and wondered if it would be possible to
finsh the elevators, move on to the flaps and ailerons and maybe even the
rear spars without having the wings done. I want to wait until I have my
hanger fixed (heat and concrete floor) and put up 2 really nice wing jigs.
Unfortunately I waited too long this year and will have to wait until spring
or summer.
Anyways is there any reason that I couldn't do the ailerons,flaps and rear
spars without having the wing in the jig? I've looked at the plans and other
than closing up the flaps I should be able to, but thought I'd ask the
group.
Thanks in advance.
Feel free to email direct
Larry lwgroom(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ROTARY ENGINE-RV-6A |
Until recently , I was receiving e-mail from a group of people who are
interested in
rotary engine conversions for aircraft use. I stopped getting it and I would
like to
continue getting the info. Can someone please help with that e-mail
address? I just starting building a RV-6A and would like to use a Mazda 13B.
Thanks
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
o.com>
>I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
>philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
>like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
>the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
>though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
>a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
Robert, one of my friends had the same concern, so he did the "firewall
single ground point" installation using screws to fasten round crimped
tabs to the ground plate on his RV-6.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a starting fusilage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | passing wires through f-604 |
I am running elt and comm wires to the rear, and wondered how you can get
wires past f-604 without going over the side frame. Since I have a QB, I
can not drill holes at the top underneath the canopy deck at 604.
I am thinking that I can drill through the top of the center of the bulkead
(just above the wing spar). Has this been done?
thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
I too have a Floscan sensor, although mine is as yet untested. Reading
various accounts of what does and doesn't work, I am a bit skeptical that
the "straightness" of the ingoing pipe is that important. Let me explain,
and then fire away.
Considering the flow path transition through the AN fitting on the inlet to
the Floscan, particularly the abrupt increase in diameter just past the end
of the NPT threads, it is hard to imagine that nicely made bends in the
3/8" line prior to the sensor contribute much turbulence when compared to
the inlet fittings.
I suspect some variable other than the straightness of the inlet tube is at
work causing some installations to work and others not.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
I'm using the RMI Monitor and love it. I put the flow sensor just forward
of the electronic fuel pump which is located per the plans. Probably not as
long a "straight line" as is desirable but it works fine and is very
consistent.
Good Luck
Marcus
RV-6 - 53 hrs and loving it!
> Do any of you guys have the RMI Monitor and the Fuel flow Sensor? What is
>a sucessful location of the Sensor? The book says, "there should be a
>reasonable length of straight line between the sensor inlet and the first
>valve, elbow or other turbulence producing devices."
>
>I am trying to puzzle out the what is a "reasonable straight Line". If it
>would be more accurate to locate it before the electric fuel pump. It must
>also be mounted with the wires up it says.
>
>Anyone had some experience with this installation?
>
>
>Have a Great New Year!
>Denny, RV-6,
>Lebanon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mumert" <Dmumert(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
Hi All
CarlingSwitch has a web site http://www.carlingswitch.com/ which list their
switches and some of their catalog pages
Dave Mumert
dmumert(at)telusplanet.net
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Date: December 28, 1998 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Questions
>
>
><< -Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found some
at
> Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
> don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've found
> some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey. >>
>
>Try getting a Carlingswitch catalog. They are listed in the Yeller Pages.
>Wicks ordered mine for me, as they don't sell direct. Carlingswitch is the
>manufacturer of the familiar split rocker master switch.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
>Scott; Would you recommend sealing the edge of the firewall from the
>inside or the outside?
-
I do it with a bead around the edge on the inside.
-
This brings up another question; How heat
>resistant is
>Pro-Seal? Have a couple of spots in the engine compartment I would
>like
>to use it.
-
It seems to be quite heat tolerant. We use it to help seal grommeted
wire bundles, etc. (because of previous reference to firewall light
penetration check).
How fire resistant is it? I don't really know.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>Could some of the listers reply with their BEWs for their 6's and 8's?
>I'm not exactly "FAA Standard" weight (I understand that if I get ramp
>checked, I can get a ticket for this...:-) and want to ENSURE that I
>can
>stay within the aerobatic gross for an -8. The sample plans list
>1069#;
>curious as to the reality of that weight.
>
>
The sample in the manual is a copy of the actual form for the yellow RV-8
prototype, N58RV.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
>Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight'
>cowl
>version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner
>plate.
>Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible
>engine
>misalignment. I have checked the relationship of the prop spacer
>flange to
>the fuselage reference (uppr stringer) and found them to be at 90 deg.
> Do I
>have a problem?? I can shim the engine or the mount but am not sure
>if that
>is a proper procedure. I think it would get rid of the gap. Does
>anybody
>have any suggestions?
>
>Randy Lea
>rllea(at)aol.com
>sitting on the gear, waiting for a hangar.
>
>
I just fitted an "S" cowl to one of our company planes that is being
upgraded to become a new transition trainer.
If you install one of these cowls on an airplane with with a newly
mounted engine on new motor mounts the engine will not have settled to
its final possition. I install the cowls with the spinner near the top
of the opening and usually have the engine sag about 1/8" or so
(sometimes as much as 3/16").
This only partialy explains your problem though, as a 1/4 " difference
will not be taken up by the engine sagging.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
>I want to thank everyone for their help. I did call Tom at Vans and he
>explaned that they had included a sheet of paper with my kit that will
>help me
>with the problem. Tom had also gave me some verbal tips as well, I bet
>he
>hates customers like me, you couldn't tell by talking to him though,
>he was
>very nice and helpfull.
>After Tom had told me the answer is in my own shop, I went and looked.
>I bet
>you can't guess what I found, I've been humbled once again. On the
>supplement
>instruction sheet there are a few ways to fix the problem. I ended up
>building
>a new F-681 with a 2 1/4" leg on top and a 4" on bottom. This reduced
>the gap
>to .063", after fitting this all together I have a better
>understanding of
>what is going on here. Someone had made a note to say; Don't preload
>the stab.
>Well I can say that I have not preloaded anything the the fit is good.
>Of
>course it took all day to install the stab, If I can say anything is
>don't
>hurry and always ask before cutting.
>Thank You all again
>Cameron
>
>
>
Cameron, Glad to hear you got your questions answered. I thought I would
mention another item to double check, because it is a common error that
many builders miss.
You mentioned that the stab must not be installed with any preload which
is correct, but the main issue in doing so is to be sure that the rudder
hinge brackets are aligned (the same as you did when you built your
horizontal stab).
If the hinge line is straight, then the rear spar is straight, and you
can go ahead and drill everything in place.
If the hinge line is not straight then the rudder will always be binding,
which is not good for the rudder or the hinge rod ends and brackets.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
Von,
My intake for cabin heat is on the rear baffle. I wouldn't think that it
would make a noticable difference whether you pick up the air at the front
or rear. I think there is an advantage (in cost, if nothing else) in
keeping the runs of SCAT hose short.
By the way, I'm running two muffs for cabing heat. The air goes to the
first muff and then, the heated air is routed to the second muff and then
into the cabin. There is a short piece of SCAT (behind the carb) that
connects the two muffs.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I posted this the other day, and no one responded, so will post it again
>with the assumption it was missed. I would like to know the pros and
>cons of taking the cabin heat air off the front of the engine baffle,
>versus taking it off the rear baffle. It would seem the advantage to the
>rear baffle is a short run to the muff, using air that is somewhat
>preheated due to passing over the cylinders, resulting in improved
>heating, as well as increased airflow due to the shorter hose as well as
>the more upright 90degree opening into the scat tubing, versus the more
>horizontal positioning of the inlet at the front intake ramp. The
>disadvantage is the possibility of getting bad air into the cabin if oil
>was burning, etc. Wouldnt it seem that you could smell the bad air and
>then shut it off? Has anyone ever had a problem with this? Am I missing
>anything? Looking for opinions.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What can I do Pre-Wing Jig? |
Much snipped
>Anyways is there any reason that I couldn't do the ailerons,flaps and rear
>spars without having the wing in the jig? I've looked at the plans and other
>than closing up the flaps I should be able to, but thought I'd ask the
>group.
There is nothing stopping you from building the pieces you mentioned. Also,
you could burn quite a few more hours deburring and straightening wing ribs.
Finally, you could build the F-604 wing carry through bulkhead. All of this
could be done in minimal space and without "big" jigs.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
The 24th annual Cable Air Fair at Cable Airport (CCB) occurs on
January 9 & 10. There has not been much publicity as the date was
just set in November. There are 6 RV's based here and at least 7 more
under construction. The airport will be closed for the airshow from
10 to 4. Arrival and departures should be planed accordingly. Check
NOTAMs for temporary tower frequency and times.
RVer's interested in joining / forming a Southern California Wing of
Van's Air Force should check in with Gary at the aircraft registration
booth. The first meeting of the Southern California Wing of Van's Air
Force will be scheduled in the near future.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
Dan,
I have a simulated wood grain panel on my bird. Actually its formica
the same stuff they use on counter tops. I think you will find that if a wood
grain look is what your after this is the way to go. You can find this stuff
fairly inexpensivly at most interior design type stores. If you go to the
right place they will have literaly hundreds of different woodgrain deisigns
to choose from. You can also cut out the holes for the instruments with a hole
punch. I know this look isnt for everyone but I am quite pleased with mine.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting started in my apartment? |
"Besing, Paul" wrote:
>
>
> What is your timeframe 'till you have a shop? It may be more productive for
> you to get setup and build in the same place. I would not want to move any
> of my project after you get started. Granted, I have a quickbuild that
> fills up my two car garage, but the point is there is a lot of things you
> buy, nifty little things you do to store stuff, etc...Talk to Tim Lewis
> about this..he moved his whole kit across the country.
>
> Not to mention, you can't really do much without a compressor. You need to
> rivet, soon. You also need to cut angle, soon. If noise is a problem, you
> won't be able to do much at all, so it may be worth it to wait until you
> have a shop.
Ummm... As far as rivetting goes, you *can* squeeze -4 rivets by hand.
However, initially I had a lot of trouble with the -4's. I dunno how
many of the empennage are accessible to a squeezer since I only got my
squeezer after I was part-way through building the emp.
Cutting angle can be done adequately with a hacksaw.
Having said the above, I agree that a compressor will be necessary, as
will driving rivets. Perhaps Bill can work in with his neighbours as to
agreeable 'noisy' times?
Another noisy process will be dimpling the skins... can't do that
without making noise AFAICT.
I built all of my emp, and did some of the wing spar work, in a 9'x12'
room. My experiences with that are documented at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> -- specifically
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny0a.htm> is pre-build decisions.
Storage of parts is an increasing problem. I'm now in a space about
equivalent to a 2-car garage ( Luxury! ),
with storage of the wings and emp taking up about a third of it. The
downside is that my present workshop is the other side of town... that
would certainly affect my progress (if it wasn't for other factors).
As far as moving large assemblies (eg wings) ... it's a nerve-wracking
business. Avoid it if you can, but, if you can't, it *is* possible.
Kinda like driving that first for-real rivet.
Frank.
Setting up fuselage jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: What can I do Pre-Wing Jig? |
Lawrence Groom wrote:
> I'm
> half way thru the right elevator and wondered if it would be possible to
> finsh the elevators, move on to the flaps and ailerons and maybe even the
> rear spars without having the wings done.
Yes. Also the main spars. After my emp, I did the flaps and ailerons
(whilst still fresh with working with .016 skins), then did my main
spars and rear spars. There's also a lot of rib prep work to do --
deburring lightening holes, etc. I'd guess you could build your tanks
and/or LEs before setting up your wing jig too, although I didn't do
that myself.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: firewall sealing
>
>
>>Scott; Would you recommend sealing the edge of the firewall from the
>>inside or the outside?
>-
>I do it with a bead around the edge on the inside.
>-
> This brings up another question; How heat
>>resistant is
>>Pro-Seal? Have a couple of spots in the engine compartment I would
>>like
>>to use it.
>-
>It seems to be quite heat tolerant. We use it to help seal grommeted
>wire bundles, etc. (because of previous reference to firewall light
>penetration check).
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>
>It apparently is heat tolerant as I am using a bead of it on the top
portion of the mating surfaces of my crankcase halves. My engine developed
an oil leak here adjacent to the middle cam journal ( a pressurized area) .
I was seriously considering dissassembling the engine as nothing would stop
it (RTV, JB Weld, etc.). After two people suggested using Pro-Seal, I gave
it a try. I was amazed. After 15 hours there is still no leak and the
material is still pliable. Don't know how long it will last, but sure beats
tearing the engine apart. BTW, if you are ever having an engine overhauled
there is a mod to the crackcase that can be accomplished to keep the areas
around the cam journals from having to be subjected to pressurized oil.
Sorry for the long post, but I can't stop smiling after each flight and not
seeing oil streaks.
Ivan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aileron gap brace |
Folks,
That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what? Also, the
rear spar has different thicknesses. Slice the brace at each change in
surface height? Am I expecting too much detail from the plans at this stage
in the game? Perhaps.
Thanks for all input.
Dennis Clay
#80473
Eugene, OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
Please reply to me personally, I'm not sure I'm back on the
list yet or not.
Have you guys realized that if the pop rivets which close
the leading edge on the elevators come loose, the leading
edge will probably jam on the HS rear spar? I'm a little
concerned because I must not have bent the leading edge
quite as good as I did the rudder and there's a little
pucker between each of the pop rivets. I'm asking van's if
it's okay to add more pop rivets in between. Anyway, I
think it would be good to keep an eye on the leading edges
every now and then.
Secondly, can anyone tell me why, when installing the right
elevator, the plans say to put the elevator "in trail"
before drilling the hole in the horn for the center
bearing? Think about it, the hole remains in the centerline
of the bearing throughout elevator travel, so why can't you
drill the hole with the elevator in the up or down
position? I ask this not to be a smart ass, but for fear
that I'm not catching on to something that is important.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ROTARY ENGINE-RV-6A |
Stan,
Don't know if this is the list your are referring to, but you might give
it a try:
A free e mail list focused on the rotary engines can be subscribed to at
, Paul is the host.
Ed
Ed Anderson
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
RV-6A N494BW 13B Powered 15 Hrs flight time
Vienna, VA
THEZING3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Until recently , I was receiving e-mail from a group of people who are
> interested in
> rotary engine conversions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
> A 4 place RV? A quick poll.
>
>
Yes....
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying in Southern MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allarzil(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | "spar substitute spacer" |
Building the F604 bulkhead of my rv6.What is the good thickness for the spar
substitute spacer beetween F604B and F604C ? Is 1.25" good (a little bit more
than my spar thickness 1.205 ") Thanks Allarzil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> Considering the flow path transition through the AN fitting on the inlet to
> the Floscan, particularly the abrupt increase in diameter just past the end
> of the NPT threads, it is hard to imagine that nicely made bends in the
> 3/8" line prior to the sensor contribute much turbulence when compared to
> the inlet fittings.
>
> I suspect some variable other than the straightness of the inlet tube is at
> work causing some installations to work and others not.
I installed my transducer on the back baffle with a short hose running
to the flow divider. The hose from the fuel servo attaches to the
tranducer with a 90 degree elbow. It just made for a cleaner hose run
and I missed the installation warning about the straight run of hose
required. It works just fine. I needed to adjust the Shadin Miniflo K
factor to get the accuracy to +-1%. The only problem that I've had with
the transducer in that location is heat. It starts to give eroneous
readings on a hot slow climb. I drilled a small cooling hole in the
baffle to allow cool air to blow on it and the problem went away. Might
be a slightly flakey transducer.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge and control horn |
<< Have you guys realized that if the pop rivets which close
the leading edge on the elevators come loose, the leading
edge will probably jam on the HS rear spar?
snip
When building the Rocket empennage, we don't do that LE in that manner. We
simply bend the LE into the proper curve after trimming the skin fwd of the
spar and reflanging it. No rivets, no problems, finished quickly. Actually,
any emp leaving my shop is done this way. (rudder and elevs)
Secondly, can anyone tell me why, when installing the right
elevator, the plans say to put the elevator "in trail"
before drilling the hole in the horn for the center
bearing? Think about it, the hole remains in the centerline
of the bearing throughout elevator travel,
snip
Sometimes, this actually happens!
You should install the elev to the two outer hinges, and then mark the horn
thru the center hinge point (with the elev in trail). Rotate the elev thru its
travel, and watch your mark- it should not move (except for the rotation).
Adjust the rod ends until the mark simply rotates, and then drill the mark. Be
ready te reposition your mark. I suggest masking tape, which can be removed
easily. The slightest pressure from a drill bit or some other appropriately
sized tool (inserted thru the centr bearing) will leave a visible mark for you
to watch.
How about that for a tip? Thanks to Scott Brown of Florida RVation...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
Dennis,
Don't know which a/c you are building but they should all
be the same. Yes some of the rib rivits interfer an well as
the doublers on the root end on the RV4. You can locate
the heads of the problem rivits and drill holes to clear them.
As for the doubler higher thickness problem, The 4 drawings
show cutting the gap seal part way through to allow it to follow
the doublers ect. Check your drawings and you will see what
I am talking about.
Stew RV$ Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | "spar substitute spacer" |
I went with the exact thickness, for what it's worth.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Building the F604 bulkhead of my rv6.What is the good
thickness for the spar
substitute spacer beetween F604B and F604C ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
>
>But you have to remove the wing fairing to clean the gascolator when it
>could be under the cowl where you might look at it more often.
** The drain from the gascolator is protruding out the bottom of the
fairing by adding an extention to it. It comes out right next to the tank
drain. This way I can flush it into clear plastic tube each preflight
which should give me an indication if there is any foreign material
collecting. I have fiberglass fairings and am still considering modifing
the bottom of the left one to make it easier to get the bowl off. As is it
takes six screws and bend the fairing bottom down, get to it which is
easier them the cowling I should imagine. That is not perfect yet, but
getting better I think.
> What ever you do, make sure to clean the gascolator after the first flight.
** I will diffently follow that advise. I am very concerned on fuel
issues, it seems that is one of the major safety issues I read about in GA
flying. I located my fuel guages at the top of the panel, so I have to see
them each and every time I look at the flight instruments. I have found
that I can get distracted with other problems when WX or other thing take
my attention....so I'm trying to cover my short comings.
My problem now is getting room after I come back into the cabin from the
wing root filter have a straight six or so inches for the F/F sensor and
clear the rudder peddles. The suggestion of locating the sensor in the
straight line from the selector is something I had thought of, but the
extra filter stopped me.
Of course I complicated the process by installing two hot air vents, one
on each side. My wife is always too warm and I am always too cold.... ;
(
Have a Great New Year!
Denny, RV-6,
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>I have seen at Oscosh, people who make beautiful wooden instrument
>panels. I have some walnut boards that would make a nice panel, but
>what thickness do you make the panel. Has anybody ever put a wooden
>instrument panel in their rv-6(a) and how well does it hold up from
>the shrinking and expanding.
________________________________________________________________________________
or so, especially Walnut. While it would look great, it will be high
maintenance - you will need to remove it once a year or so and re-finish
it due to constant exposure to sun. Hangered will help of course, as
will a lot of IFR flying :) .
If you do it, try a vertical grain orientation to minimize movement and
cupping.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Assembling wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
Our engine(0-360-A1A) has been hanging for well over a month now so I assume
that most of the 'sag' would have worked its way into the installation
although we haven't run it yet. What about shimming the engine mount at the
fire wall? or the engine at the engine mounts? The mounts are supplied with
a few extra washers that they say are for shimming. I didn't think that would
be necessary for a brand new engine mount.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
Scott I am not sure of what you ment about checking the hinge line, see I was
a big cheater and bought a quick-build RV6A. I did check the aft skin of the
vertical stab with a level for plum. I had also placed the level against the
rudder hinge brackets and it too looked to be plum. It sounds like you have
even another way to check this, If you do, Please share. At this point a
couple more checks won't bother me, of course that is, if everything is still
as good as I think it is now. If not, no biggie, I will just have to build a
new airplane.
Thank You
Cameron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sam James - Plenum/Baffling Installation |
Gentlemen,
I have been following the posts on the Sam James/Bill Davis plenum chamber.
I have just completed the installation on my RV4 - O-360 configuration. Sam
is terrific guy and was very patient with me with what must have seemed like
pretty stupid questions.
The installation probably took a lot longer than necessary due to the lack
of
detail on some drawings, some inaccuracies in the drawings and my learning
curve as to what was being accomplished.
My purpose in writing is not to criticize but to offer the following to
those
who may follow the same path. I went through four iterations of baffling
before I made a set that met my standards. I first created a set of mylar
patterns traced from drawings provided. Next came a set of baffles fabricated
from soft aluminum Soffit type material. You can buy this at any Home Depot.
Its cheap, easy to cut, and is forgiving to multiple reverse bending without
fracture. This set sort of fit but provided a template to mark where to add
and where to remove material. It is a challenge to locate the engine attach
holes in just the right spot. The next set was made out of .032 2024. This
set probably would have been okay. However, there were still areas that could
be made closer, attach holes at could be located closer and after seeing how
things fit together (not that obvious from the drawings especially at the
front of the plenum) I wanted to do better. I fabricated another set that fit
quite nicely. However, after fitting the fiberglass to the baffling and
creating an oil cooler attach assembly at the back of number 4 cylinder, It
ended up that I made a fourth set. Not only does haste make waste but when
I'm interrupted with things like work and family life, I make mistakes that I
would not otherwise make.
The point of this is as follows: To those who are preparing to install
their
plenum on an O-360, I offer the following. I have available the templates and
various iterations of aluminum parts including the oil cooler installation
free for the asking. The only condition is that you pass it along to the next
individual in need. There is no reason why anyone has to go through the
amount of work I did to achieve an acceptable baffling system. I would think
with what I have on my shelf, you would be able to get it right the first
time. I would guess that this material will save 40 hours of work.
Tom Brown
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
RV4 system installations
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "spar substitute spacer" |
Allarzil(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Building the F604 bulkhead of my rv6.What is the good thickness for the spar
> substitute spacer beetween F604B and F604C ? Is 1.25" good (a little bit more
> than my spar thickness 1.205 ") Thanks Allarzil
For an alternative to building a wood "spar", see the method I used:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/fuse2.html
Sam Buchanan (just finished oil cooler installation. Whatta I do next??)
"The RV Journal" http:/www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
>>I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
>>philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
>>like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
>>the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
>>though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
>>a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
>
>Robert, one of my friends had the same concern, so he did the "firewall
>single ground point" installation using screws to fasten round crimped
>tabs to the ground plate on his RV-6.
There is no basis in the physics for choosing screws over fast-on
tabs. Check out my articles on the matter on our website. In a nutshell,
if a screw loosens a 1/4 turn, the joint is on it's way to failure.
It takes over 100 g's of acceleration to dislodge a fast-on tab from
it's perch. Small perturbations of tab position due to vibration
only serve to lower resistance in the high pressure contact areas of
the joint.
Cessna has been using fast-on tabs on the back of all rocker switches
since the mid 60s . . . I was at Cessna when they were first installed.
I'll agree . . . wet-finger-in-the-wind engineering made many of us
wary of the change but a detailed analysis of the physics combined with
over 30 years of field history should alay any concerns for using
the technology as recommended.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
I would not use the shims. Just install the engine and mounts according
to the directions, check your alignment according to the plans, and then
build in (as Scott says in todays post) 1/8-3/16 allowance for future
sag. The washers are used normally after the fact, if you later need to
compensate to center the spinner. The RV-4 I bought a couple of years ago
had sag; the builder had not allowed for any such, so I used the washers
to bring the engine back up where it needed to be. Worked for me, anyway.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Our engine(0-360-A1A) has been hanging for well over a month now so I
>assume
>that most of the 'sag' would have worked its way into the installation
>although we haven't run it yet. What about shimming the engine mount
>at the
>fire wall? or the engine at the engine mounts? The mounts are
>supplied with
>a few extra washers that they say are for shimming. I didn't think
>that would
>be necessary for a brand new engine mount.
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
Hi Dennis;
As I recall, I did not realize that brace would be a problem until after
I had already used round head rivets, so ran into the same problem. I
just drilled small holes in the flap brace to fit over the rivets. Put
the brace in position, clamp it, and press gently over each rivet, and it
will leave a small indentation where you need to drill. The flap brace
does need to have a "step up" to fit the 2 thicknesses of the spar. It
seems like the brace was already cut for this, though. E-mail me direct
if you need any help.
Von Alexander (finally done with baffling)
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Folks,
>That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did
>you
>remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what? Also,
>the
>rear spar has different thicknesses. Slice the brace at each change
>in
>surface height? Am I expecting too much detail from the plans at this
>stage
>in the game? Perhaps.
>Thanks for all input.
>Dennis Clay
>#80473
>Eugene, OR.
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lancair Spinner Sag |
I was in Bend, Oregon on business a couple of weeks ago, and thought it
would be interesting to look at the new Lancair Factory there. I was
looking at the Lancair fixed gear production model, and noticed the
spinner was off due to engine sag by a full inch low and a full inch
right! It would stand to reason that the heavier the engine and the more
power, the more sag. I am guessing the sag to the right must be from the
torque of the prop?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
>>That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what? Also, the
rear spar has different thicknesses. Slice the brace at each change in
surface height? Am I expecting too much detail from the plans at this stage
in the game? Perhaps.
Thanks for all input.
Dennis Clay
#80473
Eugene, OR.<<
Dennis,
Yes, you drill out holes in the brace to go around the 470 rivets that hold
the ribs to the rear spar. I drilled my holes initially with a #40 and then
used a Unibit to enlarge them... worked great. Also, you're supposed to
notch the ends of the brace to allow it to clear the rear spar doublers.
Don't remember if this is in the plans or If I got it from the Orndorff
videos, but a simple notch cut with your snips in each corner will allow it
to clear nicely.
Don't worry, it will fit fine!
Randy Lervold
#80500
Camas, Wa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
Cameron...
There is a spacer that fits between the 681 and the horizontal stab....do
you have it in?
Chat Daniel
RV8 N678RV(reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com <RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 11:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach
>
>I am trying to install my vertical stab and have found a problem, I would
like
>to know if others have had the same and what they did to fix it.
>At the attach of the fwd vertical stab spar to the fwd horizontal stab
spar,
>there is a miss fit of about 1/2 inch and the F-681 will not make up the
gap.
>The vertical stab fwd spar is too far forward. One suggestion I was given
was
>to cut off the vertical stab spar about 1" and then it would fit. How many
>people had to do that? Is this right? I don't want to cut anything
without
>asking a few questions first.
>Scared to Cut
>Cameron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strong, Colin" <colin.strong(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Quote of the Day 98-12-29 |
I received a nifty book for X-mas this year, "Slipping the Surly Bonds" by
Dave English. It is a compilation of aviation quotes. I thought that most
everyday I would share a quote with everyone.
So to start things off I found this one that I think applies to the unique
(i.e. obsessed) mind of the RV builder.
"For some years I have been afflicted with the belief that flight is
possible to man. My disease has increased in severity and I feel that it
will soon cost
me an increased amount of money if not my life. I have been trying to
arrange my affairs in such a way that I can devote my entire time for a few
months to experiment in this field."
-Wilbur Wright to Octave Chanute Dayton, May 13, 1900
Colin Strong
RV6 #25216 - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
Thanks for all the input on the cowl fitting. I guess that we will tighten up
the gap and hope for the best.
Randy Lea
rllea(at)aol.com
rv-6a on the gear, waiting for a hangar at FFZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Circuit Breakers |
>I called Terra when I was installing my radios. The person that I spoke
>with said that the 2A fuse was to protect the radio, not the wire, and
>that you should not use a fuse with a higher rating. 2A blade type fuses
>are manufactured, but they are not common. I was in Toronto on business
>and found them at large electronic supply store (Electro-Sonic).
I'm sorry to hear this . . . the engineering design philosophy for
programs I've worked on call for product protection to be built
into the product. If there's some failure within our gizmo that
can cause overload damage to wiring or components, then the protection
should be INSIDE our gizmo. After all, if it has failed to
the degree that smoke is trying to get out of any components,
then it's got to come back to some service facility anyhow.
Pushing gizmo protection onto system designers by sizing
breakers or fuses at the bus is not (IMNSHO) good design practice.
It absolutly forces you to run but one device from one breaker
or fuse. While certainly ideal, it locks out the less desirable
but sometimes necessary option of running several devices from the
same 5A fuse or breaker if all devices are fed with 22AWG wire.
It also increases probability for systems integrators to get
too large a fuse or breaker in the supply line when an airplane
may get a variety of optional accessories wired with 22AWG wire
from a 5A breaker marked "VHF COM". Brand X radio may be
perfectly happy with a 5A braker while brand T needs a 2A
breaker . . . sloppy business . . .
However, in deference to what already exists, I'll track down
a source of low amperage blade fuses and get them up on our
website catalog asap. . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
DenClay(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
> That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
> remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what?
I know it's too late now, but when rivetting your rear spar together,
use flush rivets in those locations.
I know it's too late now, but it would have been a good (great even)
idea to get Frank Justice's or Will Cretsinger's wing construction notes
from the Net (they tell you which rivets need to be flush). Perhaps also
my contribution at <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm>
(Java-impaired should go to
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bintro.htm>)... the Links page will
point you to both Frank's and Will's stuff.
> Also, the
> rear spar has different thicknesses. Slice the brace at each change in
> surface height?
Just step the gap seal up... it's flexible enough. The flap brace is
different -- it needs to be cut. This is shown in one of the contruction
manual sketches, I think.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
>... I bought a bicycle inner tube for this, but I'm still trying to
> figure out how to attach it. I think I'm going to try some contact cement for
> rubber and glue it to the inside of the skirts themselves. Unless I can be
> enlightened with something better!?
How about the adhesive from a bicycle tube repair kit? Also be sure
to rough up the tube just like you do when you put a patch on one.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot Tube Bracket |
Hey all you RV and Rocket Builders!!
You have spent countless hours building the most beautiful ship alive. Don't
go and put one of those j-tube pitot tubes on it for the home-built look. Put
a real pitot tube on it. Florida RV-Ation sells pitot brackets for only $65.
These are professionally welded and crafted pitot brackets and are primed for
corrosion control. Finish your ship and make it look like the masterpiece that
it is. To order, just send your name and address and $65 + $5 SH to:
Florida RV-Ation
2731 S.E. Tailwinds Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33478
Scott Brown - President
Florida RV-Ation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | "spar substitute spacer" |
>Building the F604 bulkhead of my rv6.What is the good thickness for
>the spar substitute spacer beetween F604B and F604C ? Is 1.25" good (a
little
>bit more than my spar thickness 1.205 ") Thanks Allarzil
Allarzil:
I planned a 2x8 to +.030 over my .125 spar. You want your wings to fit
later. I think I could have been .010 over & it would have been OK. I cut
them 7 inches long like Frank J suggested. I would only go out to the
triangle piece so you can drive the rivets in the next to outboard seat
rib.
Later to align & fit the .062 stiffeners on the F672 forward bottom
skin, you will have to build "thru" spars to fit the F699 angle brackets
to the spar holes. (like George did).
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>Have you guys realized that if the pop rivets which close the leading
edge on the elevators come loose, the leading edge will probably jam on
the HS rear spar? I'm a little concerned because I must not have bent
the leading edge
>quite as good as I did the rudder and there's a little pucker between
each of the pop rivets.
Adrian Chick
===============================================
Adrian:
I think you are right on ground checking them, but if you bend them with
the water pipe enough prior to rivetting, they should hold their shape OK
if one does fail.
> I'm asking van's if it's okay to add more pop rivets in between.
Anyway, I
>think it would be good to keep an eye on the leading edges every now and
then.
>
>Secondly, can anyone tell me why, when installing the right elevator,
the plans say to put the elevator "in trail" before drilling the hole in
the horn for the center
>bearing? Think about it, the hole remains in the centerline of the
bearing throughout elevator travel, so why can't you drill the hole with
the elevator in the up or down position? I ask this not to be a smart
ass, but for fear that I'm not catching on to something that is
important.
>Thanks.
===============================================
I think the factory don't believe anyone can build a perfect horn. So if
it is off, we are splitting the difference on the error.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
Frank van der Hulst wrote:
>
>
> DenClay(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Folks,
> > That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
> > remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what?
>
> I know it's too late now, but when rivetting your rear spar together,
> use flush rivets in those locations.
>
In my opinion do it like the plans and drawings say, I would
not use flush rivets, especially if they are machine countersink.
Around that rear spar I want all the strength I can get.
All listers if you are engineers and know what you are doing
fine change to your hearts content, but if you want to do
something just because you THINK it is better forget it. I saw
a post from someone worrying about the leading edge of a rudder
or elevator coming apart and jamming. I think you are worrying
to much about nothing. Think of it this way if there are 2000
RVs flying and they only fly 20 hours a year that's forty thousand
hours a year. I have not heard of a leading edge coming apart.
I have averaged right at 100 hours a year on my -6 for that last
ten years and if only 1000 other RVs do that that is 100,000 hours
a year. I don't hear of very many mechanical problems with RVs so
that tells me that Van has engineered it pretty well.
Not picking on anyone or their methods just voicing my opinions.
OK down off the soap box
Jerry Springer|RV-6 1989|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
VON I CANT SEE WHY ANY ONE WOULD SET A COWL WITH THE ENGINE NOT IN FLIGHT
THRUST THINK ABOUT IT
TOM RV8TIO540SIAD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Tip-up instrument panel.
I would like to hear from some other builders on this.
What is your gap dimension between the top edge of the instrument panel
and the bottom surface of the glareshield?
Just trying to figure out how much room to leave.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "spar substitute spacer" |
Allarzil,
.045" gap might be a bit much but I do think there is an advantage to not
getting things too tight.
You can always add a shim, if necessary. If the gap is too close,
installation of the wings can be difficult. We had a tight fit on the 6A
that I'm helping with. My six had a little looser fit. If I were to do it
again, I'd shoot for a .020" gap, or so. Most of the forward part of 604
will bolt down solid as it flexes readily. The outboard area will not flex
so you don't want much of a gap in this area.
It will be interesting to hear other builders' comments on this.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Building the F604 bulkhead of my rv6.What is the good thickness for the spar
>substitute spacer beetween F604B and F604C ? Is 1.25" good (a little bit more
>than my spar thickness 1.205 ") Thanks Allarzil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
It seems like a common problem on the old style cowl that this area
doesn't line up very well. After using a heat gun and some clamps, I was
able to get things "squared" away. The heat gun may not work on the new
type "S" cowl. We haven't gotten that far. If there is uneven spacing on
this or the old style cowl, you can even things out a bit by laying up
additonal layers of fiberglass on the forward face of the cowl and
"machining" to fit. If you do this on the old style, be sure to sand the
gelcoat off.
Speaking of the new style cowl, do these cowls come with the inlet ramps
for the top cowl? "Gillette Charlie" has the newer cowl but we haven't been
able to find any ramps.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>My 'light weight' "S" cowl for a 6A with Lycoming O-360-A1A and constant
>speed prop has the same problem - the gap between the spinner backing plate
>and the cowl's forward facing flange around the prop shaft increases about
>3/8 from top to bottom.
>Bob Haan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Cowling, baffling & wing tips |
Fellow RVers,
Keeping in mind past discussions on cooling drag, baffles and cowling, I
have a few questions for the aeronautical engineer types who possible know
the answers.
I've discussed several ideas with "Gillette Charlie" concerning his 160 hp
equipeed RV6A with C.S. We are going to build the plenum chamber with the
hope that cooling drag will be reduced. I wonder if there is any effect on
cooling drag associatied with the various 2" cooling ducts attached to the
baffles? Would there be any advantage to picking up air for the cabin heat
and the mechanical fuel pump shroud from a NACA vent on the side of the
bottom cowl? One advantage would be the elimination of any "hot spots" in
the cylinders due to taking cooling air away from them and shooting it down
some 2" SCAT. Is it possible that cooling air requirements for the engine
would be less and that, possibly, the cowl inlet size could be reduced? I
intend to make some streamlined plugs that are easily attached and removed
to close down the inlet area and run some experiments on either Charlie's or
my six. I do have trouble keeping CHT's and oil temps up up (even with my
adjustable oil cooler door completely shut) when it's very cold. Below 10
degrees F., I have, in the past, closed off about 1/3 of each inlet with
duct tape. This increased both oil and CHT temps but one had to be careful
on climb out.
I've also been thinking about the wing tips. Charlie's tips seem even
heavier than the ones on my old kit. I remeber reading an article years ago
in Sport Aviation on wing tip design. One of the designs was simply a flat
plate on the of the wing. If one could close off the end of the wing in
this way, it would reduce the span a bit but would certainly be lighter.
Any ideas of any other effects this alteration would have. If I can get
time, I might even make a couple of flush tips and do some comparrisons but
it will need to get a lot warmer before doing so.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at the stage where I need to decide.
Thanks kevin for the info. Its a tough choice to make based on the
performance numbers. Many people have warned me about the dangers of
turbocharging / risk of fire in the tightly cowled RV's.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 3:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ?
I am at the stage where I need to decide.
>
>>
>>I currently have an RV6A with a 180 HP constant speed prop. I am starting
>>work on the fuselage of my RV8A and have been thinking about putting a
>>larger engine in it ( probably a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 260HP). I am not
>>intending on doing aerobatics. The reason I want the extra horsepower is
to
>>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR
flight
>>plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude.
It
>>seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches, than
>>it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
>>
>>However, I am unaware of anybody putting that heavy of an engine in an RV
>>with a nose gear. All the 540's and heavy engines in RV's I have seen are
>>in taildraggers ( uh oh, does that mean the taildraggers are better ...
>>heheheheh ).
>>
>>Scott Johnson
>>scottj(at)ais.net
>>
>Scott,
>
>I would certainly feel more comfortable putting a turbocharged engine in
>than an O-540. The extra weight of the O-540 means a lot of extra
>structural loads for the airframe and landing gear. Putting a turbo
>charged engine in would certainly require some major cowling changes, but
>no more than the O-540 would need.
>
>On a standard day, the air density at 17,000 ft is only 59% of the sea
>level density, so your O-540 is going to give 59% power max, or about 150
>hp. TIO-360s have critical altitudes (the max altitude at which you can
>get sea level power) as high as 25,000 ft (this depends on the model - see
>the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet at
>http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/e16ea.pdf). You should be able
>to get 75% power (150 hp) at 17,000 ft, so cruise performance should be
>about equivalent to the O-540.
>
>Take care,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <huffaker(at)utw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
DenClay(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
> That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
> remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what?
Hmm. There seem to be a lot of differences here, nobody did what I did:
Drilled out the rivits in those locations, and then matched drilled the
gap fairing to the holes in the spars and put the -4 rivits thru the
fairing and the spar. On my second wing, am leaving those rivits out till
time to install the fairing.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (huffaker(at)utw.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Riviting 2nd wing skeleton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
o.com>
>I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
>philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
>like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
>the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
>though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
>a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
I recently (about four months ago now) finished an all-new electrical
system for my RV-4. I used the fuseblock and push-on terminal approach
with single central ground at the firewall. The system was so simple that
I was able to completely wire the aircraft in-place. It was quite simple
when compared to doing the same thing with breakers and buss bars. I have
a split-buss for essential and nonessential loads.
I haven't flown as much as I would have expected so I have only put about
50 hours on the aircraft but everything in the electrical system has worked
properly from the beginning. I heartily recommend Bob's approach to wiring.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Questions |
>-What is a good minimum center to center distance for 3 1/8" instruments?
For
>2 1/4" instruments? Obviously, I want to minimize this distance but avoid
>structural problems or a maintenance nightmare.
I discovered that every instrument is slightly different so I sat down with
calipers and measured each instrument and made up a CAD template for each
instrument so I could use my CAD program to do the layout. This worked
very well for me.
I understand that at least one of the new "panel planner" software packages
will now do this for you and generate the database of holes you need to
drill in your new panel thus eliminating the need to do what I did.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / |
RV-8A ? I am at the stage where I need to decide.
>>
>>I currently have an RV6A with a 180 HP constant speed prop. I am starting
>>work on the fuselage of my RV8A and have been thinking about putting a
>>larger engine in it ( probably a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 260HP). I am not
>>intending on doing aerobatics. The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
>>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR flight
>>plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude. It
>>seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches, than
>>it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
It sounds like what you really want is a Harmon Rocket II.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Time for the stupid question of the day. How does one install a "wedge" on
the rudder for rudder trim? Does one need to install nutplates onto the
stiffeners at some location, and drill the corresponding holes in the skin for
later installation? Just thinking about this, since I am about to close up
the rudder.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Jim,
You would be better off doing it that way if you can.
Most I believe pop rivit the tab to jut the skin.
Stew RV4 Co. (210hrs first year)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
I'm staying in Sabastian Florida (X26) and have some time tomorrow
(12/30/98) to fly around the state a bit. I'm thinking about flying over
to the Winterhaven area then up to Ocala around the Orlando TCA, maybe
as far north as Gainsville or further, then back to Sabastian again.
Anybody in the area (which is pretty large in an RV) want a ride in
exchange for showing me around? Let me know as early as possible tomorrow
if you're interested as my ride to the airport leaves early......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct. (but staying at X26 this week...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Jim Nice asked:
<< How does one install a "wedge" on the rudder for rudder trim? >>
My buddies who are flying (unlike yours truly, who is still building) bought a
stick of tapered balsa wood at the local hobby shop. Then they guesstimated
the tab size, cut a chunk of balsa off, taped it to the rudder, and went
flying. After several iterations, when they got it the right size, they put
a coat of resin on it, painted it to match the airplane, and prosealed it in
place.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at t...
BUT NOT THE CLIMB RATE ?
TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
Since I'm at this stage on my QB 8, so I thought I'd throw in a quick tip I
got from Tom Green. The hinge line can be verified straight if you hold a
6ft carpenters level (or any other appropriate straight edge) against it. If
all the hinge brackets touch the level, then your hinge line is straight.
After drilling the bottom attach bolts, I had to put an .032 shim under the
front of my VS to get the spar straight again. It's funny, but that spar
didn't seem that flimsy when I built it! Maybe it needs some Viagra? I also
have had a hell of a time with my last bulkhead on my QB. It seems that
those little guys over in the Phillipines were drinking when they installed
mine. It's canted to the left, bowed inwards, and tilted slightly forward.
Nothing some shimming can't fix, but it caused me some minor heartburn. I'm
now trying to work up the guts to attach the front spar. Anyone have any
tips on getting the VS aligned with the centerline of the fuselage??
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
>Cameron, Glad to hear you got your questions answered. I thought I would
>mention another item to double check, because it is a common error that
>many builders miss.
>You mentioned that the stab must not be installed with any preload which
>is correct, but the main issue in doing so is to be sure that the rudder
>hinge brackets are aligned (the same as you did when you built your
>horizontal stab).
>If the hinge line is straight, then the rear spar is straight, and you
>can go ahead and drill everything in place.
>If the hinge line is not straight then the rudder will always be binding,
>which is not good for the rudder or the hinge rod ends and brackets.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
I'm confused on the Brake spring issue. The Master cylinders in my kit are Matco
and the springs are 2.9 inches long. Does anyone know if this is a problem?
Thanks in advance
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
> writes:
>
> << I just removed my 3 year old springs on my RV-6Q to find they measured 3
> 1/2 inches. I called Van's and they sent me 4 new ones post haste, no
> charge. They measured 4 1/4 inches, and I think are supposed to be
> stiffer as well.
>
> Although I had not yet taxied, my brakes, with the old springs, dragged a
> bit as I spun the jacked up wheel, both sides. I have not had it jacked
> up since replacing the springs, but rolling the airplane seems to be clear
> of any drag now.
>
> I have a friend with an RV-6a that was built from a 4 3/4 yr old finishing
> kit. Should he be worried about springs that are too short with that age
> on the parts? Any response would be appreciated. >>
>
> Ron-
>
> As I clearly stated in my earlier posts on this subject (following Belted Air
> Power's original identification of this issue), there IS a problem with the
> original springs that Cleveland supplied on our brake masters. Although all
> the principals in this issue deny that defective springs were shipped, the
> facts would not seem to bear this out. I think they subscribe to the Clinton
> idea of conditional truth. After all, what does the word "spring" really
> mean?
>
> IMO it is vitally important to your and your airplane's health, that these
> springs be correct. It is in the last RCH of travel that the master check
> valve uncorks. If the brake drag is excessive and the taxi is long and fast
> you can build up tremendous heat. As you have seen, the correct springs are
> over 4" in length and should not "sack out" when properly installed.
>
> -GV
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
>
> Speaking of the new style cowl, do these cowls come with the inlet ramps
>for the top cowl? "Gillette Charlie" has the newer cowl but we haven't been
>able to find any ramps.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
Mine came with ramps made of fiberglass to be "glassed in"" to the top
cowl. Don't know how good they are. Going to install them when I finish
the baffles - about a week.
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | GARY SOBEK BOUNCED MAIL |
Sorry to put this on the list but I need to notify Gary and his mail is
being bounced.
> > Subject: MOTELS
> > Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:36:28 -0800
> > From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
> > Organization: bonesteel engineering
> > To: gasobek(at)jps.net
> >
> > GARY
> >
> > You can't wait this long to make reservations on holliday weekends,
> > most are full, I called around and made reservations for you at Yanks
> > in Meyers, I dont know the quality this place I took the first one that
> > had rooms. 2 beds, thurs, fri, sat. $38.50 hope its OK.
> >
> > Let me know asap if this is not ok I'll have to call them back this is
> > one of thier biggest weekends.
> >
> > I can go with you on Thur. I don't know when Terri gets off work.
> >
> > my plane is further apart than last time but I got all my parts now
> > to put back together.
> >
> > Don't know when I should have another Inspection, tell me.
> >
> > Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Adrian
IMO by putting the elevator 'in trail', you are also ensuring that
*nothing* is pushing against the horn whilst you are drilling the hole.
I noticed that the horns can quite easily pushed slightly off due to
some flex in the elevators. The center bearing is part of the system
preventing this bending moment.
On my elevators, the holes would have been off if I don't drill them in
the horns when the horns are free of touching.
You can alsways prove or disprove your (or my ;-} ) theory by inserting
a sharp pencel through the center bearing and noticing the mark left on
the horn. you can move the elevator through it's range, first without
the horn touching anything and then with the horn stopping the elevator.
Gert
Adrian Chick wrote:
>
>
> Please reply to me personally, I'm not sure I'm back on the
> list yet or not.
>
> Have you guys realized that if the pop rivets which close
> the leading edge on the elevators come loose, the leading
> edge will probably jam on the HS rear spar? I'm a little
> concerned because I must not have bent the leading edge
> quite as good as I did the rudder and there's a little
> pucker between each of the pop rivets. I'm asking van's if
> it's okay to add more pop rivets in between. Anyway, I
> think it would be good to keep an eye on the leading edges
> every now and then.
>
> Secondly, can anyone tell me why, when installing the right
> elevator, the plans say to put the elevator "in trail"
> before drilling the hole in the horn for the center
> bearing? Think about it, the hole remains in the centerline
> of the bearing throughout elevator travel, so why can't you
> drill the hole with the elevator in the up or down
> position? I ask this not to be a smart ass, but for fear
> that I'm not catching on to something that is important.
> Thanks.
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
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US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Bob Skinner wrote:
> Speaking of the new style cowl, do these cowls come with the inlet ramps
> for the top cowl? "Gillette Charlie" has the newer cowl but we haven't been
> able to find any ramps.
>
Yup, The new S-type cowl comes with preformed inlet ramps.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 - Got one wheel on today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Proseal is not the proper product to use as a fireseal. It will fail at in
the 200 to 300 degree F range. The best way to get cured proseal off of
metal is with a heat gun. If you really want a fireproof sealer, there is
such a thing. It is similar to proseal (made by Courtaulds) , but loaded
with some other fibery type stuff, isn't easy to work , and looks ugly.
> This brings up another question; How heat
>>resistant is
>>Pro-Seal? Have a couple of spots in the engine compartment I would
>>like
>>to use it.
>-
>It seems to be quite heat tolerant. We use it to help seal grommeted
>wire bundles, etc. (because of previous reference to firewall light
>penetration check).
>How fire resistant is it? I don't really know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | RV6 Round Inlet Cowl |
In researching the round inlet cowls available for various RV aircraft, I
thought I would share with the list in hope of generating some more posts to
fill in the blanks. I'm building an RV6A and I was hoping to use the Airflow
Performance throttle body fuel injection.
Sam James down in Florida will make you a cowl out of anything you want with
all of the latest techniques. They don't have the preformed oil check access
doors that Vans new "s type" cowls have though. These cowls have 35 square
inches of inlet air where a stock cowl has 52. This air then meets up with
Sam's molded sealed pressure plenum that you still have to make baffles for.
The design of these baffles has been refined by builders who are trying to
make them available as we speak. I suspect (but am not sure) that this cowl
is sized for an IO-360. If you were wanting to install a constant speed
propeller you need a different prop hub than an RV6 with a stock cowl. This
one costs $800 more than the HC-C2YK that all the other RV's with O-360's
have.
Sam James will also sell just the inlets and their tubes. You can convert
your stock cowl into round inlets but then you should also install the
sealed plenum. The reduced inlet air has to be used more efficiently to
achieve the same engine cooling. This allows you to retrofit it in one
winter and stiil use the same prop.
Three items I have no info on yet.
One, how does the nose gear work with these new cowls?
Two, whose air box should I use? I don't know what Airflow Performance
requires for an air box and they have no web page listed in the yeller
pages. Would Van's work? Perhaps some one with an Airflow system can
comment. Sam has designed his specifically for the injected engine which I
believe is totally different from a throttle body injection system.
Three, with the smaller intake of air for engine cooling, wouldn't it be a
good idea to take cabin vent air from NACA ducts in the side of the
fuselage? I've noticed that it is common to take high pressure air off the
back baffle to supply the cabin. I don't think it would be a good idea to
take air from the engine cooling when it has a reduced intake.
Why do I want round inlets? Well they are supposed to go at least 5 mph
faster and Burt Rutan likes them. I think they look modern. I don't care how
long it takes me to build this little ship as long as it is built the best I
can with the resources I have.
If you have bought any of Sam James components please post your comments on
this list or email me direct. The archive doesn't have the full story yet on
this subject. It needs some feedback from people who have bought this stuff.
If you know anything I don't please post it on this list or email me direct.
If Sam wants to expand his company he should consider donating one to Van
for evaluation. It will eventually end up on a plane and then we would all
know what the factory thinks about these things. If Van likes them maybe he
will switch over to selling them. He sells more sportplanes than anyone else
doesn't he?
Happy Seasons To All
Norman Hunger
RV6A - ordering the finishing kit in a few months
Delta, BC.
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> >... I bought a bicycle inner tube for this, but I'm still trying to
> > figure out how to attach it. I think I'm going to try some contact cement for
> > rubber and glue it to the inside of the skirts themselves. Unless I can be
> > enlightened with something better!?
Randy,
Try using a product called "Shoe Goo" That should take care of your
problem.
Good Luck!
don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RD Compton" <sluggo(at)bellsouth.net> |
A 4-place RV??? No way! Heck, I can barely look at an RV-6A without
getting physically ill. (A plain RV-6 is barely tolerable). Looks too much
like the Grumman series for me.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
Dan,
A product that I used on my instrument panel taht has served me well is
a veneer. You can get it in any specie of wood you can imagine.
It has an adhesive backing and will adhear to aluminum very nicely.I
have a woodworking business and have used this product in many
aplications with no problems.
the source is Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Tel. 1-800-260-9663....www.rockler.com You should get a catalog from
them.
If you need help on installation give me a shout.
Good luck,
Don Champagne
RV-6 QB 0-360/CS
Mont Vernon, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GARY SOBEK BOUNCED MAIL |
Sorry for taking up space on the list. Been away from the home
computer and not removing files from the server with the laptop when I
log in. Had some large files attached to e-mail messages. I exceeded
my storage space on the server.
Wayne and his beautiful wife Terri have earned rides in my RV-6 for
all they have done for me. I also will be buying dinner for them if
they will have dinner with me.
Will fly the RV-6 with skis in the tailcone for a New Years Ski trip
if the weather is good. (Will drive if the weather is bad.) Any
other RVer want to join me at Tahoe for Skiing? BTW: I flew the
airplane on Monday with all the ski gear inside it and it flew well.
NO AFT CG problem on my bird.
Thanks VAN for such a wonderful airplane.
You are going to love yours when it is finshed. I ony have about 300
hours after 15 months. Work keep getting in my way of flying more. I
love this airplane.
Will be doing an EAA Tech Counselor visit while I am at Tahoe. I am
willing to travel to any interesting place with my RV to do a Tech
Counselor visit.
My 1999 New Years Resolution:
Enjoy flying my RV-6. Make new friends. Enjoy flying my RV-6. Visit
new places. Enjoy flying my RV-6. Learn new things. Enjoy flying my
RV-6. Get a Souther California Wing of Van's Air Force started.
Enjoy flying my RV-6.
Happy New Year to everyone on the RV-List. 1998 was a GREAT year for
me. Hope everyone has a 1999 that is just a GREAT as 1998 was for me.
I LOVE my RV-6. Thanks VAN for making DREAMS come true.
Gary
EAA Tech Counselor EAA Chapter 448 and 1000
http://www.tstonramp.com/~falcon/chapter448/
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/pix/sobekpix/sobekpix.htm
---wayne bonesteel wrote:
>
>
> Sorry to put this on the list but I need to notify Gary and his mail
is
> being bounced.
>
> > > Subject: MOTELS
> > > Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:36:28 -0800
> > > From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
> > > Organization: bonesteel engineering
> > > To: gasobek(at)jps.net
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
>There seem to be a lot of differences here, nobody did what I did:
Drilled out the rivits in those locations, and then matched drilled the
gap fairing to the holes in the spars and put the -4 rivits<
No Brian, you are not alone in this. I just hadn't had a moment to post
it.
A much cleaner instalation.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
>There seem to be a lot of differences here, nobody did what I did:
Drilled out the rivits in those locations, and then matched drilled the
gap fairing to the holes in the spars and put the -4 rivits<
No Brian, you are not alone in this. I just hadn't had a moment to post
it.
A much cleaner instalation.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPORT AERO <eloveday(at)ici.net> |
>
>Listers,
>
> I'm staying in Sabastian Florida (X26) and have some time tomorrow
>(12/30/98)>
>Fred Stucklen
>N925RV RV-6A
>E. Windsor, Ct. (but staying at X26 this week...)
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Fred -
If you can't turn up any company, you could try dropping in to Leeward Air
Ranch, about 15 S. of Ocala.
I understand there are no less than 11 RV's under
construction there (I got a look at about 6 of them
on the way home from Sun 'N Fun).
Wish I could join you -they say it's going down to about 15 degrees here
by Thursday....
Ed Loveday
Plymouth, MA
RV-6 20181 rigging rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Fresh Air |
hey mike,
I would like to hear more about the naca vent under your left wing, where and
how?
Carey Mills
n286rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
>I'm confused on the Brake spring issue. The Master cylinders in my kit
are Matco and the springs are 2.9 inches long. Does anyone know if this
is a problem?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian Eckstein
Whoa....brake springs?? WHAT brake springs?? The Matco cylinders in my
RV8 fuselage kit have no external springs at all that I can find. Am I
missing something vital here? Mine have a stiff return tension on the
actuator rod as they came out of the bag...so, do these have internal
springs of some sort?
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Nut and washer on innertube? |
Can someone tell me what the nut and the washer on the inner tubes are for?
They come threaded on the threads of the stem right next to the rubber, but
I can not figure out what it is for. The only thing I could think of is
that it is to keep the tire off of the hole in the rim, but the hole is too
big and the nut and washer will just slip right through....
Someone please slap the obvious into me, because it is just not making
sense!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
>>Robert, one of my friends had the same concern, so he did the "firewall
>>single ground point" installation using screws to fasten round crimped
>>tabs to the ground plate on his RV-6.
>
> There is no basis in the physics for choosing screws over fast-on
> tabs. Check out my articles on the matter on our website. In a nutshell,
> if a screw loosens a 1/4 turn, the joint is on it's way to failure.
> It takes over 100 g's of acceleration to dislodge a fast-on tab from
> it's perch. Small perturbations of tab position due to vibration
> only serve to lower resistance in the high pressure contact areas of
> the joint.
Bob, you have already sold me on the use of the fast-on tabs. In fact, I
got my friend's fast-on tabbed ground plate for a smoking deal for my rv.
And I got a good crimper and quality fast-on tabs from you at the seminar
in Ft. Worth. I was only passing on what my friend had did as he just
couldn't accept the idea of using fast on tabs.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a fusilage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James - Plenum/Baffling Installation |
tom,
I will take you up on your offer and conditions. Please email me off list for
more info.
thanks
carey mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
In a message dated 12/29/98 6:58:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, RLLEA(at)aol.com
writes:
<<
Our engine(0-360-A1A) has been hanging for well over a month now so I assume
that most of the 'sag' would have worked its way into the installation
although we haven't run it yet. What about shimming the engine mount at the
fire wall? or the engine at the engine mounts? The mounts are supplied with
a few extra washers that they say are for shimming. I didn't think that
would
be necessary for a brand new engine mount.
>>
I dont think your engine will settle into its final position until you make a
few flights during warmer weather. Mine is still settling at 28
hrs. Fred
LaForge RV-4 180hp CS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
> Speaking of the new style cowl, do these cowls come with the inlet
>ramps
>for the top cowl? "Gillette Charlie" has the newer cowl but we
>haven't been
>able to find any ramps.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
Yes, the new "S" cowl comes with inlet ramps made from the same prepreg
material as the rest of the cowl.
BTW... Don't you mean "Golf Charlie"?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
>I know it's too late now, but when rivetting your rear spar together,
>use flush rivets in those locations.
>
This problem in the plans was recently detected while we are building a
new RV-8 demonstrator. The rivet call outs were orig. intended to be
AN426 to prevent interference with the gap seal. Sorry to all the
builders effected. I don't know how it was missed originally since they
were designated correctly for the flap brace.
A plans revision his been done.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
>Scott I am not sure of what you ment about checking the hinge line,
>see I was
>a big cheater and bought a quick-build RV6A. I did check the aft skin
>of the
>vertical stab with a level for plum. I had also placed the level
>against the
>rudder hinge brackets and it too looked to be plum.
-
Placing a straight edge against the hinge brackets is an adequate check
for the hinge line (if the brackets are straight, the hinge line is
straight).
The reason it is important to do this is because once you attach the
rear spar to the fuselage, you can still move the stab up and down while
positioning the forward spar attach point. In doing so you are bending
the rear spar which in turn is missaligning the hinge brackets.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling, baffling & wing tips |
>
>Fellow RVers,
>
> Keeping in mind past discussions on cooling drag, baffles and cowling, I
>have a few questions for the aeronautical engineer types who possible know
>the answers.
> I've discussed several ideas with "Gillette Charlie" concerning his 160 hp
>equipeed RV6A with C.S. We are going to build the plenum chamber with the
>hope that cooling drag will be reduced. I wonder if there is any effect on
>cooling drag associatied with the various 2" cooling ducts attached to the
>baffles? Would there be any advantage to picking up air for the cabin heat
>and the mechanical fuel pump shroud from a NACA vent on the side of the
>bottom cowl? One advantage would be the elimination of any "hot spots" in
>the cylinders due to taking cooling air away from them and shooting it down
>some 2" SCAT. Is it possible that cooling air requirements for the engine
>would be less and that, possibly, the cowl inlet size could be reduced?
<--snip-->
> I've also been thinking about the wing tips. Charlie's tips seem even
>heavier than the ones on my old kit. I remeber reading an article years ago
>in Sport Aviation on wing tip design. One of the designs was simply a flat
>plate on the of the wing. If one could close off the end of the wing in
>this way, it would reduce the span a bit but would certainly be lighter.
>Any ideas of any other effects this alteration would have. If I can get
>time, I might even make a couple of flush tips and do some comparrisons but
>it will need to get a lot warmer before doing so.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
Bob,
I doubt that it is worth your trouble to add NACA vents to get cooling air
for accessories, at least not from a drag point of view. It might be a
good idea from a hot spot point of view, but I would think that you could
adjust the baffle gaps around the cylinders to get even cylinder cooling.
The cooling drag comes from two reasons. First, you are taking a bunch of
stationary air and accelerating it to get it up to the same speed as the
aircraft. The laws of physics are pretty clear on this - this will take a
force which will be seen as drag. The force is proportional to the amount
of air. So if you take 1 lb per minute of cooling air for the accessories,
it doesn't really make much difference which hole you bring it in, it will
take the same force to accelerate it up to the aircraft's speed. The
second component is drag caused by any turbulence caused by your air inlet.
Adding a NACA scoop might cause some additional turbulence so you could
end up with more drag than before.
While going to squared off wingtips would save some weight, I suspect you
will get more drag, and the overall performance would suffer due to higher
induced drag. But, the only way to find out for sure is to do some back to
back flight testing. Take off your wing tips and duct tape pieces of
aluminum on for a test. Have a look at max speed, cruise speed and fuel
flow, rate of climb, stall speed and stall characteristics.
Just my opinion.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Zinkham <reagle(at)nauticom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
Now I am confused, I have Matco brake cylinders and they have no springs at all
!!
Vans will get a call in the morning.
Ralph Zinkham RV 6A
B&S Eckstein wrote:
>
> I'm confused on the Brake spring issue. The Master cylinders in my kit are Matco
and the springs are 2.9 inches long. Does anyone know if this is a problem?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Brian Eckstein
>
> ----------
> >
> >
> > writes:
> >
> > << I just removed my 3 year old springs on my RV-6Q to find they measured 3
> > 1/2 inches. I called Van's and they sent me 4 new ones post haste, no
> > charge. They measured 4 1/4 inches, and I think are supposed to be
> > stiffer as well.
> >
> > Although I had not yet taxied, my brakes, with the old springs, dragged a
> > bit as I spun the jacked up wheel, both sides. I have not had it jacked
> > up since replacing the springs, but rolling the airplane seems to be clear
> > of any drag now.
> >
> > I have a friend with an RV-6a that was built from a 4 3/4 yr old finishing
> > kit. Should he be worried about springs that are too short with that age
> > on the parts? Any response would be appreciated. >>
> >
> > Ron-
> >
> > As I clearly stated in my earlier posts on this subject (following Belted Air
> > Power's original identification of this issue), there IS a problem with the
> > original springs that Cleveland supplied on our brake masters. Although all
> > the principals in this issue deny that defective springs were shipped, the
> > facts would not seem to bear this out. I think they subscribe to the Clinton
> > idea of conditional truth. After all, what does the word "spring" really
> > mean?
> >
> > IMO it is vitally important to your and your airplane's health, that these
> > springs be correct. It is in the last RCH of travel that the master check
> > valve uncorks. If the brake drag is excessive and the taxi is long and fast
> > you can build up tremendous heat. As you have seen, the correct springs are
> > over 4" in length and should not "sack out" when properly installed.
> >
> > -GV
> >
> >
> >
> > +--
--+
> > | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> > | ---
|
> > | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> > | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> > | ---
|
> > | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> > +--
--+
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Just an interesting twist to the thread, I saw an interesting arrangement on
an RV-6 at Copperstate a year or so ago. The gentleman ran a vernier
control cable (from Van's style CT-23, I believe) from the pilot side panel,
or lower left on the bulkhead, and ran it down and around the pilots rudder
pedals to connect to a tensioned spring connected to the passenger's right
rudder pedal (tension pulling the pedal forward). I assume that he had a
stronger tension spring on the passenger's left pedal to let the left trim
come in when the tension is relaxed on the right, can't remember?
It was the neatest, simplest thing that I'd seen for awhile on an RV. He
explained it to me and demonstrated that it just took a very smooth turn or
two on the vernier and that's it. The owner said that it work just slicker
than snot! It is not super sensitive in flight he said, due to the fact
that you are work against spring pressure and not direct air pressure. I
can see some of the disadvantages though, as the airspeed decreases say from
cruise, you would have to adjust due to less resistance on the spring. . . .
but, don't we have to adjust it anyway with a firm/cable setup while
transitioning from different phases of flight?
Has anyone else seen a setup like this? I have a -3 with no side-by-side
weight differentials and fuselage fuel, so I really don't seen a need for a
rudder trim in my project's future, but with the -6's and maybe the -4's???
Blue Skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45 (Still finishing the spar mods)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< How does one install a "wedge" on
the rudder for rudder trim? >>
Jim-
After sizing it (5"H x 1.5"W x 3/16"T alum), testing it (by duct taping it on
and going flying) and painting it, I just pop riveted it on with some white
RTV to fill the void. It looks and works swell.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator, Mag Cooling |
I have a question about how absolutely essential it is to run cooling air
to the mags and alternator. Has everyone out there done this? Just
exploring the options, (and getting lazy).
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffle Wire Seals |
Can anybody tell me a good way to seal the sparkplug wires where they go
thru the rear baffle? Forgot to order the special seals for these but
wonder if there isnt a better and cheaper way. Thought about cutting one
out of sheet nylon stock, but somebody has probably got a better way.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Am looking for a thin, preferably clear tape that can be used under the
canopy where it rubs against the fuselage, etc. to prevent wear of the
paint. Something besides the $32.00 a roll teflon tape. Anybody come up
with good proven ideas here?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
> From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
> Time for the stupid question of the day. How does one install a "wedge" on
> the rudder for rudder trim? Does one need to install nutplates onto the
> stiffeners at some location, and drill the corresponding holes in the skin for
> later installation? Just thinking about this, since I am about to close up
> the rudder.
> Jim Nice
> RV6A
> WA State
Jim,
Don't you put any holes in that Rudder yet. Now is not the time, and when
it is time you may not want a wedge. ( adjustable etc. ) You can offset your
vertical stab just a little and be able to have a CLEAN rudder. Anyway, you
don't install trim tabs ( fixed ) until you fly the plane and see what you need.
( I wouldn't think )
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
The plans advise inch between the top of the F-603 instrument panel and a
line projected from the top of the firewall and top of the sub-panel.
Experienced builders advise 3/8 inch is better.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
What is your gap dimension between the top edge of the
instrument panel
and the bottom surface of the glareshield?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron gap brace |
>>
>> Folks,
>> That aileron gap brace seems to lie right on top of some rivets. Did you
>> remove circles at each to allow the brace to lie flat, or what?
>
> Hmm. There seem to be a lot of differences here, nobody did what I did:
>Drilled out the rivits in those locations, and then matched drilled the
>gap fairing to the holes in the spars and put the -4 rivits thru the
>fairing and the spar. On my second wing, am leaving those rivits out till
>time to install the fairing.
>
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (huffaker(at)utw.com)
> President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> RV-8 80091 Riviting 2nd wing skeleton
>
Thats' what I did on my -6A so you are not alone (whatever that means!)
Lary McKee
RV-6A finishing wings
eschew obfuscation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at ...
<< The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
>>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR flight
>>plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude. It
>>seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches, than
>>it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
It sounds like what you really want is a Harmon Rocket II. >>
Hmmmmmm...I spoke with Jeff Ackland the other day. Do you fellas realize that
the Legend uses only 6 gal Kero (and about 6 minutes) to get to 17,000 from
start-up? Now that's really movin'! Of course, the hourly burn at that alt is
35 GPH or so, but you are cruising at 350 MPH or so. Geez.....
Actually, the Rocket feels sluggish above 15,000. It would need a turbo also.
I have a sneaking suspicion that Ol' Tom Whelen may have the "correction" for
this malady well under control...I for one can't wait to see the flight
reports on his bird.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
Check with your local snow ski store. There is a clear self-adhesive tape
they put on top of their skis that works real well for paint protection where
the canopy closes. We also use it where the two-piece gear fairings overlap
and on the inboard surface of the flap where it meets the fuselage.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at ...
MARK CHECK SPELLING WHELAN
TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
Question regarding the clear tape,,
Could this clear tape be used on the top of the flaps as well? Or is
stainless steel tape still the best option in this area,,
Thanks,
Derrick, RV-4 N184DA
> Check with your local snow ski store. There is a clear self-adhesive
tape
>they put on top of their skis that works real well for paint protection where
>the canopy closes. We also use it where the two-piece gear fairings overlap
>and on the inboard surface of the flap where it meets the fuselage.
>
>George and Becki Orndorff
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)cctrap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator, Mag Cooling |
>How absolutely essential it is to run cooling air to the mags and alternator.
Alternators generate (pun) a lot of heat as they create electricity. They
will last longer and work better if cooled. Mags are another
electricity-producing device which is in a high-temperature environment
already. Probably benefit from cooling.
Cooling them can be a simple deal: get some of the corrigated plastic tubing
from Van's, cut a few holes in the baffleing and run the tubing to the mags
and alternator. Not a time-consuming addition and may save lots of headaches
and money later.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator, Mag Cooling |
<< I have a question about how absolutely essential it is to run cooling air
to the mags and alternator. Has everyone out there done this? >>
It's easy to do and essential in my book. Anything that costs so little and
extends the life of these expensive items is a bargain.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Wire Seals |
Von,
The seals that come with new harnesses work
great. They are nylon and are made in two pieces
to facilitate installation. They retain the leads and
fill the holes necessary for getting the nuts thru
the baffles.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at ...
> I have a sneaking suspicion that Ol' Tom Whelen may have the "correction" for
> this malady well under control...I for one can't wait to see the flight
What is Tom Whelan(sp?) building?
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lancair Spinner Sag |
Von,
Actually the engine isn't sagging, it's built that way to correct for P
Factor in high powersetting, high angle of attack flight.
Doug Hormann
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 9:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>
>I was in Bend, Oregon on business a couple of weeks ago, and thought it
>would be interesting to look at the new Lancair Factory there. I was
>looking at the Lancair fixed gear production model, and noticed the
>spinner was off due to engine sag by a full inch low and a full inch
>right! It would stand to reason that the heavier the engine and the more
>power, the more sag. I am guessing the sag to the right must be from the
>torque of the prop?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ROTARY ENGINE-RV-6A |
The address is Rotaryeng(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
Bob
There was an article in the 16 years of the RVator about a fellow who
modified his RV4 for intermediate level aerobatic competition. He put
on flat plate wing tips to increase his roll rate and reduce weight,
this is quite common on a lot of high performance aerobatic aircraft.
He seemed happy with the results, but he made numerous other
modifications that significantly changed the stability of the RV, so it
was difficult for me to determine if the flat plate wing tips had any
effect on stability other than roll rate.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
Bob Skinner wrote:
> I've also been thinking about the wing tips. Charlie's tips seem even
> heavier than the ones on my old kit. I remeber reading an article years ago
> in Sport Aviation on wing tip design. One of the designs was simply a flat
> plate on the of the wing. If one could close off the end of the wing in
> this way, it would reduce the span a bit but would certainly be lighter.
> Any ideas of any other effects this alteration would have. If I can get
> time, I might even make a couple of flush tips and do some comparrisons but
> it will need to get a lot warmer before doing so.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at the stage where I need to decide.
Won't you lose a lot of that 260 hp at 17,000'? Also, are you going to
beef up the cabin heater to keep you warm up there? Without running any
numbers it seems like a turbo-normalized 200 hp would be just the ticket
without the higher fuel flow.* Turbo-normalizing doesn't have the bad
reliability rap that lots of older turbo installations due. It will cost
more than your 0-540, but at that altitude you will be better pleased with
the performance I think.
*If you can make it fit!!
Regards,
Doug Hormann
>
>>>
>>>The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
>>>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR
flight
>>>plan ), and then maintain a cruise speed of 200 m.p.h. at that altitude.
It
>>>seems to me that it would be safer going with the extra cubic inches,
than
>>>it would be to try to fit a turbocharged 200 HP Lycoming in.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | IFR in RVs, was O-540 in RV-8 |
>>I currently have an RV6A with a 180 HP constant speed prop. I am starting
>>work on the fuselage of my RV8A and have been thinking about putting a
>>larger engine in it ( probably a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 260HP). I am not
>>intending on doing aerobatics. The reason I want the extra horsepower is to
>>be able to climb quickly up to 17,000 feet ( using oxygen and on IFR flight
>>plan )
Well, you've already got time in your RV-6A, so you've probably thought about
this, but do you think that the RVs have good *IFR* stability? hands off, in
turbulence, when you're doing paperwork? Some folks say that the autopilot
will handle that situation, but what if the autopilot poops out?
If your mission is high altitude cross country IFR, sounds to me like you need
a spam can, not a homebuilt. I can only think of one homebuilt that might be
good IFR... Then again, you may just be a lot better pilot than most.
Ed Wischmeyer
IFR legal RV-4
ATP/CFII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator and mag cooling |
How many holes can we put in our baffles before we reduce the pressure
enough to affect the primary purpose of cooling the engine.
I have oil cooler on left rear and 2 in. tube to heat muff and 2 in.
tube to cabin.
How many holes do others have and do you have cooling problems.
Wayne RV-4 engine accessories.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strong, Colin" <colin.strong(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Quote of the Day 98-12-30 |
"If the engine stops for any reason, you are due to tumble, and that's all
there is to it!"
-Clyde Cessna, founder of Cessna aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey all you RV and Rocket Builders!!
You have spent countless hours building the most beautiful ship alive. Don't
go and put one of those j-tube pitot tubes on it for the home-built look. Put
a real pitot tube on it. Florida RV-Ation sells pitot brackets for only $65.
These are professionally welded and crafted pitot brackets and are primed for
corrosion control. Finish your ship and make it look like the masterpiece that
it is. To order, just send your name and address and $65 + $5 SH to:
Florida RV-Ation
2731 S.E. Tailwinds Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33478
Scott Brown - President
Florida RV-Ation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lancair Spinner Sag |
Really! Well about all I can say is if its supposed to be that way, it
sure does look bad! Makes me wonder though, if that were the case, why
dont planes with large engines, like Harmon Rockets, etc have their
spinners this far out of alignment with the cowling?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Von,
>
> Actually the engine isn't sagging, it's built that way to correct
>for P
>Factor in high powersetting, high angle of attack flight.
>
>Doug Hormann
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 9:05 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>
>
>>
>>I was in Bend, Oregon on business a couple of weeks ago, and thought
>it
>>would be interesting to look at the new Lancair Factory there. I was
>>looking at the Lancair fixed gear production model, and noticed the
>>spinner was off due to engine sag by a full inch low and a full inch
>>right! It would stand to reason that the heavier the engine and the
>more
>>power, the more sag. I am guessing the sag to the right must be from
>the
>>torque of the prop?
>>Von Alexander
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV6 Round Inlet Cowl |
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 6:42 PM
Subject: RV6 Round Inlet Cowl
>In researching the round inlet cowls available for various RV aircraft, I
>thought I would share with the list in hope of generating some more posts
to
>fill in the blanks. I'm building an RV6A and I was hoping to use the
Airflow
>Performance throttle body fuel injection.
>
>Sam James down in Florida will make you a cowl out of anything you want
with
>all of the latest techniques. They don't have the preformed oil check
access
>doors that Vans new "s type" cowls have though. These cowls have 35 square
>inches of inlet air where a stock cowl has 52. This air then meets up with
>Sam's molded sealed pressure plenum that you still have to make baffles
for.
>The design of these baffles has been refined by builders who are trying to
>make them available as we speak. I suspect (but am not sure) that this cowl
>is sized for an IO-360. If you were wanting to install a constant speed
>propeller you need a different prop hub than an RV6 with a stock cowl. This
>one costs $800 more than the HC-C2YK that all the other RV's with O-360's
>have.
>
>Sam James will also sell just the inlets and their tubes. You can convert
>your stock cowl into round inlets but then you should also install the
>sealed plenum. The reduced inlet air has to be used more efficiently to
>achieve the same engine cooling. This allows you to retrofit it in one
>winter and stiil use the same prop.
>
>Three items I have no info on yet.
>One, how does the nose gear work with these new cowls?
>Two, whose air box should I use? I don't know what Airflow Performance
>requires for an air box and they have no web page listed in the yeller
>pages. Would Van's work? Perhaps some one with an Airflow system can
>comment. Sam has designed his specifically for the injected engine which I
>believe is totally different from a throttle body injection system.
>Three, with the smaller intake of air for engine cooling, wouldn't it be a
>good idea to take cabin vent air from NACA ducts in the side of the
>fuselage? I've noticed that it is common to take high pressure air off the
>back baffle to supply the cabin. I don't think it would be a good idea to
>take air from the engine cooling when it has a reduced intake.
>
>Why do I want round inlets? Well they are supposed to go at least 5 mph
>faster and Burt Rutan likes them. I think they look modern. I don't care
how
>long it takes me to build this little ship as long as it is built the best
I
>can with the resources I have.
>
>If you have bought any of Sam James components please post your comments on
>this list or email me direct. The archive doesn't have the full story yet
on
>this subject. It needs some feedback from people who have bought this
stuff.
>If you know anything I don't please post it on this list or email me
direct.
>
>If Sam wants to expand his company he should consider donating one to Van
>for evaluation. It will eventually end up on a plane and then we would all
>know what the factory thinks about these things. If Van likes them maybe he
>will switch over to selling them. He sells more sportplanes than anyone
else
>doesn't he?
>
>Happy Seasons To All
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A - ordering the finishing kit in a few months
>Delta, BC.
>nhunger(at)sprint.ca
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake return springs |
The brake spring issue relates to the Cleaveland brakes which Van's provided
prior to the Matco. For what it's worth, (not much) I was told the "spring
debate" was one factor in Van's changing. In any case, I have not heard of
any problems with the springs on the Matco's.
Ross Mickey
9PT reserved
>I'm confused on the Brake spring issue. The Master cylinders in my kit are
Matco and the springs are 2.9 inches long. Does anyone know if this is a
problem?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Paint protection |
Fellow RVer's,
After painting Charlie's engine mount with Jet Glow, I was looking for a
way to protect it as much as possible from the dings that occur when
mounting the engine, accesories and stuff on the firewall. I cut some of
the black, ribbed tubing that Van's includes in the wiring kit to the
appropriate lengths, slit them with metal snips and covered as many tubes in
the mount as possible. This has worked very well and has saved the mount
from several nicks already.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | about quick poll |
Just a quick note and an explanation.
First the results of my informal poll about who might be interested in
building a Vans 4 place was:
26 - YES
14 - NO
2 - Maybe
Second, I want to say that my brief poll was NOT instigated by Vans, nor
did they know that I put it up, and that I have no inside knowledge
about whether or not Vans is planning to produce a 4 place craft.
Here is why I did it. First, I'd like to do another project. Second,
that project will be a 4-place. Third, for the reasons that everybody
here already knows, I would be very happy continuing to do business with
Vans.
A few weeks ago, I was talking to Ken Scott and asked if a 4 place was
on the horizon. He said "NO, because the company feels that nobody would
want one since for the same price, you could get a used Mooney." I
didn't believe this and thought, perhaps this is just the company "line"
because they don't want to pre-announce plans before they are ready.
(certainly, a wise marketing move) So, I thought I'd take my own poll to
get a hint of what the market really thought, knowing very well that
whatever I find out is something that Vans already knows.
If the poll showed that Ken was correct, I'd give up on the idea and
start looking at other kits. However, if the poll showed (as it did),
that there is interest, then perhaps I'll wait a while longer to see
what may be in the works in North Plains.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube |
$65 seems like alot of money for a pitot tube bracket. I made my own for
next to nothing. I even flaired it where it meets the wing skin.
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Valve |
I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best
place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must be
in the pressure lines.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: about quick poll |
> A few weeks ago, I was talking to Ken Scott and asked if a 4 place was
> on the horizon. He said "NO, because the company feels that nobody would
> want one since for the same price, you could get a used Mooney." I
> didn't believe this and thought, perhaps this is just the company "line"
> because they don't want to pre-announce plans before they are ready.
> (certainly, a wise marketing move) So, I thought I'd take my own poll to
> get a hint of what the market really thought, knowing very well that
> whatever I find out is something that Vans already knows.
I would be inclined to take Ken at his word on this. I have been
hanging around Van and crew for several years now and although I don't
claim to be a mind-reader, my strong impression is that Van just plain
prefers to stick with the smaller, sportier end of things, and leave it
to others to design the "baggage wagons".
I agree that if Van were to design a 4 place there would be a market for
it. But I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for it to happen.
Interesting poll anyway. BTW I would be a NO just cause a 2 place fits
my needs > 90% of the time.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
I sent this once, but for some reason it never made it to the list?
RE: Rudder Trim
Just an interesting twist to the thread, I saw an interesting arrangement on
an RV-6 at Copperstate a year or so ago. The gentleman ran a vernier
control cable (from Van's style CT-23, I believe) from the pilot side panel,
or lower left on the bulkhead, and ran it down and around the pilots rudder
pedals to connect to a tensioned spring connected to the passenger's right
rudder pedal (tension pulling the pedal forward). I assume that he had a
stronger tension spring on the passenger's left pedal to let the left trim
come in when the tension is relaxed on the right, can't remember?
It was the neatest, simplest thing that I'd seen for awhile on an RV. He
explained it to me and demonstrated that it just took a very smooth turn or
two on the vernier and that's it. The owner said that it work just slicker
than snot! It is not super sensitive in flight he said, due to the fact
that you are work against spring pressure and not direct air pressure. I
can see some of the disadvantages though, as the airspeed decreases say from
cruise, you would have to adjust due to less resistance on the spring. . . .
but, don't we have to adjust it anyway with a firm/cable setup while
transitioning from different phases of flight?
Has anyone else seen a setup like this? I have a -3 with no side-by-side
weight differentials and fuselage fuel, so I really don't seen a need for a
rudder trim in my project's future, but with the -6's and maybe the -4's???
Blue Skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45 (Still finishing the spar mods)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Has anyone ever tried to use a NavAid wing-leveler for an altitude holder
by installing it so that it controls the elevator push tube? Would this
even be possible? The reason I am wondering is that I tend to wander off
altitude more often than off course.
RV-6A Flying Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I don't see how this would work but I am not an electronics wizz either.
But your statement about altitude wandering is the very reason some of us
are considering the STEC two axis autopilot. A friend is putting one in his
second -6 and the quality is superb. Spendy though!! Navaid has said they
have been working on one for years.
Ross Mickey
9PT
>Has anyone ever tried to use a NavAid wing-leveler for an altitude holder
>by installing it so that it controls the elevator push tube? Would this
>even be possible? The reason I am wondering is that I tend to wander off
>altitude more often than off course.
>RV-6A Flying Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Brake return springs missing? |
G'day listers,
I posted a reply to the brake spring thread, but it didn't seem to make
it to the list.
Anyway, I didn't find ANY springs in my fuselage kit for the Matco
cylinders for my RV8. Are these "springless"? The actuator shaft pops
right back up when depressed, so are they internally configured to
eliminate the need for an external spring? I'm somewhat illiterate on
this subject, so, gimme a brake! nyuk, nyuk.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
pondering where to put stuff in the panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
Actually, I would be interested in finding more general information on
NavAid autopilots as well. I couldn't find anything on the web. Does
anyone have an address or a phone number where I could get more
information? Thanks.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A, rudder, elevators
Marietta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lancair Spinner Sag |
I guess I misread your post. I don't know why the spinner would be out of
alignment with the cowl. I thought you were referring to the seeming
"misalignment of the engine". Guess next time, I'll read more carefully. As
far as the Harmon Rocket, etc. I guess they figure the pilot knows what a
rudder is for.:)
Regards,
Doug Hormann
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>
>Really! Well about all I can say is if its supposed to be that way, it
>sure does look bad! Makes me wonder though, if that were the case, why
>dont planes with large engines, like Harmon Rockets, etc have their
>spinners this far out of alignment with the cowling?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 9:05 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>>
>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill and Ellie Thomas <wdthomas(at)snet.net> |
Am looking for used Terra equipment for my -6A. If anyone has a nav,
com, trinav indicator, or audio panel (must have marker and ics), please
contact me off-line at WD_Thomas(at)Earthlink.Net. Include price,
condition, model no., etc. Thanks. Bill Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Rudder Trim |
A few years ago Jim Cone in his Midwest RV News Letter had an article on
how to do this with some drawings to go with it. Check the Archives for
Jim Cone's email and send a note to him directly for more info.
Bob Busick
Rob Reece wrote:
>
>
>The gentleman ran a vernier
>control cable (from Van's style CT-23, I believe) from the pilot side panel,
>or lower left on the bulkhead, and ran it down and around the pilots rudder
>pedals to connect to a tensioned spring connected to the passenger's right
>rudder pedal (tension pulling the pedal forward). I assume that he had a
>stronger tension spring on the passenger's left pedal to let the left trim
>come in when the tension is relaxed on the right, can't remember?
> Has anyone else seen a setup like this? I have a -3 with no side-by-side
> weight differentials and fuselage fuel, so I really don't seen a need for a
> rudder trim in my project's future, but with the -6's and maybe the -4's???
>
> Blue Skies!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
I believe the person you are referring to is Ralph Riddel. He teaches
areobatics at the Sean D. Tucker School in Salinas Ca. You can email him if
you wish. He and his son still have the RV-4 you are referring to.
www.poweraerobatics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tips
Bob
There was an article in the 16 years of the RVator about a fellow who
modified his RV4 for intermediate level aerobatic competition. He put
on flat plate wing tips to increase his roll rate and reduce weight,
this is quite common on a lot of high performance aerobatic aircraft.
He seemed happy with the results, but he made numerous other
modifications that significantly changed the stability of the RV, so it
was difficult for me to determine if the flat plate wing tips had any
effect on stability other than roll rate.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
Bob Skinner wrote:
> I've also been thinking about the wing tips. Charlie's tips seem even
> heavier than the ones on my old kit. I remeber reading an article years
ago
> in Sport Aviation on wing tip design. One of the designs was simply a
flat
> plate on the of the wing. If one could close off the end of the wing in
> this way, it would reduce the span a bit but would certainly be lighter.
> Any ideas of any other effects this alteration would have. If I can get
> time, I might even make a couple of flush tips and do some comparrisons
but
> it will need to get a lot warmer before doing so.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube |
My pitot bracket are precision lazer cut so that all pitot brackets are the
same in case one is inadvertantly broken. A replacement will fit precisely.
All weldments are welded by a professional certified welder. These brackets
also come with the re-inforcement plate, angle brace, and all hardware. If any
are interested in professionally built pitot bracket, please email me or call
at 561-748-2429 or send $65 + 5 SH to:
Florida RV-Ation
2731 SE Tailwinds Rd
Jupiter, FL 33478
Scott Brown
Florida RV-Ation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>Has anyone ever tried to use a NavAid wing-leveler for an altitude holder
>by installing it so that it controls the elevator push tube? Would this
>even be possible? The reason I am wondering is that I tend to wander off
>altitude more often than off course.
It would be tough to do since you need something to sense when you are
going off your altitude. The simplest systems I have seen combine a
vertical accelerometer with a pressure sensor on the static system. This
is quite different from the rate gyro that they use for sensing turn.
S-Tec has a separate altitude hold unit that may be added to a number of
their autopilots. You could probably adapt just this part of the S-Tec
system.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lancair Spinner Sag |
<< Really! Well about all I can say is if its supposed to be that way, it
sure does look bad! Makes me wonder though, if that were the case, why
dont planes with large engines, like Harmon Rockets, etc have their
spinners this far out of alignment with the cowling? >>
Look closer at the photos of my bird. The gap at the bottom is MUCH larger
than at the top. It makes the cowl a lot easier to take off (without damaging
the paint). I just didn;t want to fix it before flying, and I have since
decided to leave it.
Check six!
Mark
HR2 307 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tubes |
Bill Garrett, I bought one foot of streamlined steel tubing from Aircraft
Spruce at the same time as I was ordering a bunch of other stuff. The cost
was so small that I have forgotten it. I used only five inches of it to
place the inlet of the heated pitot tube six inches below the wing as per
the RV6A plans. I welded it to a small, thin flat plate. The new assembly
was prepped and primed. A hole was carfully reamed out in the wing skin
(wing still in jig, skins fitted but only clecoed) and the tube slid through
from the inside. The flat steel plate had warped during welding so I
sandwiched two pieces of .063 angle between it and the skin. This took out
the warp. The piece on one side lays flat against the wing rib so four LP4-3
rivits bond them. They are held to the skin right up against the wing spar
flange with five flush solid 1/8 rivits. This placement left one corner out
on it's own in the wing panel so another piece of .063 angle full of
lightening holes braces it up to a piece of angle on the main wing spar.
This set up is very solid. The skin was then rivited on and I had to wait
for the Transport Canada designated amateur built (we don't have the name
"experimental" here) aircraft inspector to come and visit. The wings and
tail pieces must be inspected before closing so that all the structure
rivits and half of the skin rivits can be scrutinized. I took the time to
carve small fairings out of balsa wood and epoxy them in place. I cut up
some real small pieces of Fiberglass cloth
and used expoxy to glass over the balsa a few times. A few sessions of sand
and fill the next day and voila! Same idea over at the fuel drains. Flaired
in little humps front and back of the drains on both sides. The wings are
now finished and painted white. My additions where time consuming but
inexpensive and look like a million bucks. I mean they really look good!
I've still got half of the streamlined steel pipe that I started with so if
anyone local to me wants to have it they can come over and have a look. If
you wait till after the holidays I could weld it for you too.
Happy New Year,
Norman Hunger
Delta,BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Tail Kit For SALE |
If interested in purchasing an RV-6 Tail Kit S/N: 20032
Contact Bob Barton with offer off the list at:
No reasonable offer refused. Kit is in storage in the Los Angeles area.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> Am looking for a thin, preferably clear tape that can be used under the
> canopy where it rubs against the fuselage, etc. to prevent wear of the
> paint. Something besides the $32.00 a roll teflon tape. Anybody come up
> with good proven ideas here?
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
UHMW tape (0.010" thick) from US Plastics. Comes in different widths. Great for
any area that rubs, like on the flap curve to wing skin.
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Washer and nut on innertube |
Can someone tell me what the washer and the nut that is on the valve stem is
for?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling, baffling & wing tips |
>
>Fellow RVers,
>
> Keeping in mind past discussions on cooling drag, baffles and cowling, I
>have a few questions for the aeronautical engineer types who possible know
>the answers.
> I've discussed several ideas with "Gillette Charlie" concerning his 160 hp
>equipeed RV6A with C.S. We are going to build the plenum chamber with the
>hope that cooling drag will be reduced. I wonder if there is any effect on
>cooling drag associatied with the various 2" cooling ducts attached to the
>baffles? Would there be any advantage to picking up air for the cabin heat
>and the mechanical fuel pump shroud from a NACA vent on the side of the
>bottom cowl? One advantage would be the elimination of any "hot spots" in
>the cylinders due to taking cooling air away from them and shooting it down
>some 2" SCAT. Is it possible that cooling air requirements for the engine
>would be less and that, possibly, the cowl inlet size could be reduced?
<--snip-->
> I've also been thinking about the wing tips. Charlie's tips seem even
>heavier than the ones on my old kit. I remeber reading an article years ago
>in Sport Aviation on wing tip design. One of the designs was simply a flat
>plate on the of the wing. If one could close off the end of the wing in
>this way, it would reduce the span a bit but would certainly be lighter.
>Any ideas of any other effects this alteration would have. If I can get
>time, I might even make a couple of flush tips and do some comparrisons but
>it will need to get a lot warmer before doing so.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
Bob,
I'm sending this again, because the first attempt hasn't made it onto the
list after 17 hours.
I doubt that it is worth your trouble to add NACA vents to get cooling air
for accessories, at least not from a drag point of view. It might be a
good idea from a hot spot point of view, but I would think that you could
adjust the baffle gaps around the cylinders to get even cylinder cooling.
The cooling drag comes from two reasons. First, you are taking a bunch of
stationary air and accelerating it to get it up to the same speed as the
aircraft. The laws of physics are pretty clear on this - this will take a
force which will be seen as drag. The force is proportional to the amount
of air. So if you take 1 lb per minute of cooling air for the accessories,
it doesn't really make much difference which hole you bring it in, it will
take the same force to accelerate it up to the aircraft's speed. The
second component is drag caused by any turbulence caused by your air inlet.
Adding a NACA scoop might cause some additional turbulence so you could
end up with more drag than before.
While going to squared off wingtips would save some weight, I suspect you
will get more drag, and the overall performance would suffer due to higher
induced drag. But, the only way to find out for sure is to do some back to
back flight testing. Take off your wing tips and duct tape pieces of
aluminum on for a test. Have a look at max speed, cruise speed and fuel
flow, rate of climb, stall speed and stall characteristics.
Just my opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
To keep the side skirts on my slider in I am doing two things.
First, I add tabs similar to Orndorff's Video but they are aluminum riveted to
the horiz. tube and the skirt - about a 45 degree angle. I can then flute to
pull the skirt in.
Second, provide an air exit opening (but where?) so that ventilation air coming
in can get back out without pushing the skirts out.
I wonder if it will work?
If you really want a four seater - the Deb's for sale $79,000.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at Stockton, CA.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
Regards,
Doug Hormann
empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Mumert <Dmumert(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Questions
>
>Hi All
>
>CarlingSwitch has a web site http://www.carlingswitch.com/ which list their
>switches and some of their catalog pages
>
>
>Dave Mumert
>dmumert(at)telusplanet.net
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: December 28, 1998 7:58 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Questions
>
>
>>
>>
>><< -Does anyone know a supplier for white rocker switches? I've found
some
>at
>> Chief, but they are pricey (Mooney stock), and have embossed labels which
>> don't say the "right" things for all of my applications. Also, I've
found
>> some rocker switches through ACS, but they are grey. >>
>>
>>Try getting a Carlingswitch catalog. They are listed in the Yeller Pages.
>>Wicks ordered mine for me, as they don't sell direct. Carlingswitch is
the
>>manufacturer of the familiar split rocker master switch.
>>
>>-GV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
> I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
> philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
> like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
> the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
> though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
> a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
The spade fuses are nice, indeed. I do like a visible indication of what
popped though, and as a result my instruments are all on CBs and
switch/CBs, but all my radios are hooked to a single spade fuse block.
This did complicate things quite a bit however, especially since it meant
having mutliple busses, so I'm not sure I would recommend that others do
it that way.
As for the ground bus -- it is ok but with a few caveats. First off, I
got the full kit, with both the front and back plates. This kit seems to
be optimized for composites and the brass bolt was too long which
necessitated having to cut it off and also cut new threads. Kind of a
hassle esp. since I don't have a tap/die set so I had to borrow one.
Also the front 24-tab plate ended up being pretty much useless for my
purposes as I have only a couple of items on the front of the firewall
that needed grounding. I ended up leaving the front plate off and
grounding those items to bolts. Saved some weight and made for shorter
wires too. The only other beef I have is partially my fault -- I should
have realized the big bolt was enough to hold the plate to the firewall at
that end but for some reason I decided to drill for the two holes on
either side of the bolt hole for screws. Bad idea. They're so close that
they would interfere with the bolt head, so I had to put a doubler plate
in there to cover up the extra holes. I don't see any reason for these
holes anyway so I think they should be left out of the product to protect
dummies like me from themselves.
Last thing -- I'll bet if you had a simple VFR panel you could get away
with the smaller 24 tab ground block. Mine is "Basic" IFR (one Nav/Com)
and I'm pretty sure I've used less than 24 tabs of the 48 tab block.
No biggie, but it would save a little more weight.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F696 Tank Attachment Flange |
List,
I have a question concerning the F696 Fwd Tank Attachment Flange. In Dwg
#49 it shows the flange aft with the web(?) attached to the aft side of
the fwd web on the tank flange. Unless I am reading it wrong Dwg #46
clearly shows the flange facing fwd with the web(?) attached to the aft
side of the web on the fwd flange on the tank. I think I have reasoned
it probably doesn't make any difference, but there may be a mousetrap
ahead I have not seen.
Enlighten me O Wise Ones!
Thanks
Wes Hays
RV6-A
workin' on the inside stuff (finally)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Jim,
Simply attach the "wedge" with double sticky tape. The thick stuff-- I
think they call it carpet tape.
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | vents, carb heat, FI ? |
Hello all,
The -8 wing skin comes with a cutout for a vent scoop, but no scoop is
included with the wing kit. In the catalog, there's a vent kit that
says it can be used for RV-8's with some modification, but the picture
shows it being used as a front scoop, not the one on the bottom of
the wing. Is the wing mounted scoop included in any of the kits, or
do you have to order it? If you order it, is it the same as the other
scoops Van's sells (i.e. one size fits all)?
As for carb heat. I plan to have some type of aerobatic fuel system
on the -8, and I'm going through the options now. Ellison says you
should have carb heat with their system. Airflow performance says you
don't need it with theirs. How about the factory Bendix (?) injection
that comes on an IO-360? Does it require carb heat? I'm assuming it
doesn't need it, but I've never seen it listed anywhere.
As for the Bendix system, does it require regular maintenance? Is
there anything to overhaul at the time of a major? Is it rudely
expensive to overhaul? Just weighing the options.
Thanks. Happy New Year.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (fuselage delivers tomorrow morning)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator and mag cooling |
Wayne,
I have the oil cooler mounted on the left rear baffle
with a 3 inch hole.
Two 2 inch holes in the rear baffle for fresh air.
One 2 inch hole in rear baffle for cabin heat.
2 5/8 holes in rear baffle for elec boost pump and
eng driven pump cooling.
I have a situation of too much cooling.
Climb cht of 360. Cruise cht of 250 to 275.
Oil temps are right in line with desired temps
except in the winter when I have to totally block off
the cooler.
This is with the c/s cowl , short extension and fixed
pitch prop.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Washer and nut on innertube |
I just checked with Vans, and the Goodyear/rich whatever company, and the nut
is not used on our application. Take it OFF. On some installations the
nut/washer combo is used on the inner rim, or as a retainer on the outside of
the valve stem.
Ed Storo RV-8 qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vents, carb heat, FI ? |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Russell,
The vent kits come with the fuselage kit (I found this out after I
bought two vent kits with the wings).
Carl Froehlich, RV-8A #80590
Vienna, VA
Making room for the fuselage jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
> To keep the side skirts on my slider in I am doing two things.
>
> First, I add tabs similar to Orndorff's Video but they are aluminum
riveted to
> the horiz. tube and the skirt - about a 45 degree angle. I can then
flute to
> pull the skirt in.
>
> Second, provide an air exit opening (but where?) so that ventilation air
coming
> in can get back out without pushing the skirts out.
>
> I wonder if it will work?
Even if you vents are shut, the pressure differential due to the slipstream
velocity is what causes the skirts to bulge out. Air really wants to exit
at the widest portion of the fuselage, regardless of where it comes into
the fuselage.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
In my humble opinion and experience, everything at Radio Shack is of the lowest
possible quality.
hal
> Is there such a thing as "aircraft quality" electrical terminals or are the
> ones I buy at Radio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Has anybody put a Lycoming O-540 in an RV-8 / RV-8A ? I |
am at ...
In a message dated 12/30/98 5:26:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, Mlfred(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Actually, the Rocket feels sluggish above 15,000. It would need a turbo
also. >>
NO FLAMES NOW, for I am building an RV6A, but the Glasair III that is flying
around here lately has the I0540 w/Turbo, and a four-bladed Hartzell prop that
looks more fitting to a P-3. It has a climb rate of 2000 FPM at altitude, and
has been to 33000 ft. already. As for myself, too rich for my blood, but the
numbers tend to curdle the blood anyway. 333Knots so far. I'll just keep
plugging along on the 6A.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint protection |
In a message dated 12/30/98 10:23:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, bskinr(at)trib.com
writes:
<< This has worked very well and has saved the mount
from several nicks already. >>
ORRR - How about using rubberized foam insulation made for wrapping pipes??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IFR in RVs, was O-540 in RV-8 |
In a message dated 12/30/98 9:19:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
edwisch(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I can only think of one homebuilt that might be
good IFR... >>
And which one might that be????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
Rob Acker Wrote:
>
>I'm currently hanging my engine, have most of the electric goodies in hand,
>and giving serious thoughts on how to hook it all up.
>
>I'd like to solicit comments from those who haved used Bob Nuckoll's design
>philosophies (installation, in-service reliability, etc.). I particularly
>like the firewall single ground point, though I have a real concern about
>the fast-on tabs. I've had several of these become intermittant on cars,
>though never on a Cessna split rocker switch. I also like the idea of using
>a fuse box, and all the wiring/weight it saves.
>
>Several months ago Bob Nuckoll's mentioned a ready-made harness for the
>RV-6. Several requests for more info from nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com have
>gone unanswered, does anyone know the status of this project since I'll be
>ready for initial wiring shortly?
>
Rob,
I've followed Bob's approach from the beginning. I previously wired
another airplane using the "old" techniques. I fully endorse the use
of the faston terminals and the common ground block.
First, those faston terminals are pretty stubborn little suckers.
There have been times when I've had to use needle nose pliers to get
them off. I trust this much more than those little screws with little
lock washers.
Second, the common ground block is essential to eliminating back-
ground noise in your headsets due to ground loops (no, not the landing
type of ground loops, but the electrical kind). Besides, it's a snap
to wire up with the faston terminals. My previous wire job included
all the no-no's that Bob talks about in his book. So it was no surprise
that there was a sligh alternator whine and the blip-blip of my strobes
in my headsets. I've tested my current set-up and no noise whatsoever.
Third, I've intalled two of the fuse blocks. One for my essential
buss and the other for the main buss. Again, the hardest part is just
figuring out where to mount them so that you can reach them (and I don't
mean reach them in flight, but when you're on the ground).
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Finishing up Engine Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: O290? (VO-435) |
>(Someone said that ...) airboat engines were 1/2 the price of
> aircraft engines at that time. Last spring I checked out airboat web
> sites and sent several e-mails.
I found:
http://www.gto-airboats.com/
Click Parts ....
These engines while heavy are probably used at 100% at sea level a lot.
An acquaintance told me about his sprint car racing engine - Chevy based and
only $39,000.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
Didn't have to polish the Aeronca did ya??? Met-all works well as well as
Rolite. Definitely worth the trouble in my book. My RV4 will be polished with
some simple scheme to paint the glass parts!
Scott
1986 Corben Junior Ace
N3642
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Doug Hormann wrote:
>
> I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
> thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
> fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
> though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
> horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Hormann
> empennage--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacksie31(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Yeller Pages- Help!! |
I guess I took a stupid pill, I can't find the Yeller pages on my confuser.
Can someone help me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yeller Pages- Help!! |
>I guess I took a stupid pill, I can't find the
>Yeller pages on my confuser. Can someone
>help me.
One place to find the yeller pages is http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
under the "Information and Resources for RV Builders" section.
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lancair Spinner Sag |
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I guess I misread your post. I don't know why the spinner would be
>out of
>alignment with the cowl. I thought you were referring to the seeming
>"misalignment of the engine". Guess next time, I'll read more
>carefully. As
>far as the Harmon Rocket, etc. I guess they figure the pilot knows
>what a
>rudder is for.:)
>
>Regards,
>
>Doug Hormann
>-----Original Message-----
>From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:42 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>
>
>>
>>Really! Well about all I can say is if its supposed to be that way,
>it
>>sure does look bad! Makes me wonder though, if that were the case,
>why
>>dont planes with large engines, like Harmon Rockets, etc have their
>>spinners this far out of alignment with the cowling?
>>Von Alexander
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 9:05 AM
>>>Subject: RV-List: Lancair Spinner Sag
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint protection |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 11:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Paint protection
> After painting Charlie's engine mount with Jet Glow, >
What is Jet Glow??
D.Reed OR. 6A Major milestone to-day,fuselage out of jig.
Better order finish kit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Bill's right. The double sided carpet tape should work well for this. We
use this tape for many things when building. Be carefull not to use too
much. You may not be able to separate the pieces without damage. The tape
comes in very handy as an extra set of hands. It's useful in keeping pieces
from shifting when drilling. We stuck on our slider tracks before drilling.
I used it to keep the bottom skin/rear spar/flap brace in position for trial
fits of the flaps. If molding your own empenage fairing and using the
single layer laminate method, you can use this tape to fasten down the edges
to the H.S. and V.S. before laying up the 3 layers of glass. We've stuck
washers & nuts to our fingers to fit into hard to reach areas. We've used
it for trial fits on: NACA vents, any piano hinges (seat bottoms, flaps,
cowl, etc.) and many other things. You can even use it to keep your floor
board carpets from sliding around:)
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Simply attach the "wedge" with double sticky tape. The thick stuff-- I
>think they call it carpet tape.
>Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling, baffling & wing tips |
Thanks, Kevin. That's the kind of input that I was looking for. Glad you
finally got through.
Bob
>
>Bob,
>I doubt that it is worth your trouble to add NACA vents to get cooling air
>for accessories, at least not from a drag point of view. It might be a
>good idea from a hot spot point of view, but I would think that you could
>adjust the baffle gaps around the cylinders to get even cylinder cooling.
>
>The cooling drag comes from two reasons. First, you are taking a bunch of
>stationary air and accelerating it to get it up to the same speed as the
>aircraft. The laws of physics are pretty clear on this - this will take a
>force which will be seen as drag. The force is proportional to the amount
>of air. So if you take 1 lb per minute of cooling air for the accessories,
>it doesn't really make much difference which hole you bring it in, it will
>take the same force to accelerate it up to the aircraft's speed. The
>second component is drag caused by any turbulence caused by your air inlet.
> Adding a NACA scoop might cause some additional turbulence so you could
>end up with more drag than before.
>
>While going to squared off wingtips would save some weight, I suspect you
>will get more drag, and the overall performance would suffer due to higher
>induced drag. But, the only way to find out for sure is to do some back to
>back flight testing. Take off your wing tips and duct tape pieces of
>aluminum on for a test. Have a look at max speed, cruise speed and fuel
>flow, rate of climb, stall speed and stall characteristics.
>
>Just my opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
Doug,
First, you get out your RONCO, home lobotomy kit-----:)
When we had a polished 170, we used ROLITE metal polish. I think we
bought it from the EAA. We also tried MOTHER'S but liked the Rolite the
best. To make removal easier (yeah, right) we dusted rags with flour which
made removal a little easier.
It seems that all we got done was polish that bird. And, we were lucky.
It was a 1948 rag wing. If the plane was parked outside, any moisture
collected dust, etc. and it was time to start over. I'd rather give myself
a root canal every day for a year than polish another airplane.
I flew the test hours off my six with it unpainted. There were several
times when I was almost blinded by the reflection and my eyes took awhile to
adjust and this plane wasn't polished.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
>thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
>fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
>though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
>horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
>Regards,
>Doug Hormann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken exhaust pipe |
>Had to make my first emergency landing today... (RV-6A, 105hrs). Shortly
>after noticing that #1 EGT was running much cooler than the others, the engine
>began running very rough and there was a loud "clacking" noise coming from up
>front. After notifying my wingman, Dwain,(RV-6), we headed for the nearest
>airport. Upon closer inspection we found the #1 exhuast pipe had broken off at
>the flange weld where it bolts to the cylinder. the pipe was laying on the
>bottom of the cowl, held only by the EGT probe.
>There just happened to be an FBO operator hanging around who knew a welder.
>These guys welded the pipe back together and in an hour or so we were back in
>the air. LUCKY!
>Has anyone else had a similar problem with the Vetterman exhaust system? Am
>planning to call Larrry tomorrow, prpbably get a new pipe.
>
I had a similar problem with my Vetterman exhaust. The same pipe, same
location (#1 cylinder, at the flange weld) cracked. The pipe was cracked
about 1/3 - 1/2 around it's circumference. I sent it back to Larry and he
welded two doubler plates on to fix the problem. The crack was not easily
seen from the outside, but there was a white residue that was indicative of
an exhaust leak. My crack first appeared around 100-125 hours. During an
oil change, there was some white residue on an exhaust nut. I dismissed it
due to my ignorance. At about 150 hr, there was more residue and I took the
pipe off. That is when I discovered how bad the crack really was. I was
lucky that it was caught in time. Larry Vetterman repaired it quickly and
didn't charge me for it.
Moral of this is:
a) NEVER dismiss anything that may look a little strange.
b) During each oil change (every 25 hrs for me), give the entire engine
compartment a good look over. I flew for about 50 hrs with a cracked exhaust.
c) Let's all start looking at the #1 exhaust flange on Vetterman exhausts.
This is the second in about six months to have a problem in this area. ANY
white residue should be considered exhaust blow-by and further investigated.
It takes less than five minutes to pull one of these pipes. I should have
at the first sign of an exhaust leak. I didn't. I got lucky.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
writes:
>
> Third, I've intalled two of the fuse blocks. One for my
>essential
>buss and the other for the main buss. Again, the hardest part is
>just
>figuring out where to mount them so that you can reach them (and I
>don't
>mean reach them in flight, but when you're on the ground).
>
Randy,
Where did you mount your fuseblocks. I'm still trying to explore all the
possible alternatives.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
RV6-A
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Instrument Panel |
Don Champagne wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> A product that I used on my instrument panel taht has served me well
is
> a veneer. You can get it in any specie of wood you can imagine.
>
> It has an adhesive backing and will adhear to aluminum very nicely.I
> have a woodworking business and have used this product in many
> aplications with no problems.
>
> the source is Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
> Tel. 1-800-260-9663....www.rockler.com You should get a catalog from
> them.
>
> If you need help on installation give me a shout.
>
> Good luck,
> Don Champagne
> RV-6 QB 0-360/CS
> Mont Vernon, NH
--
PK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Washer and nut on innertube |
Thanks...it would be nice if a note was inclosed or something...I was
scratching my head for two hours on this one!!!!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: ERSF2B(at)aol.com <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 1998 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Washer and nut on innertube
>
>I just checked with Vans, and the Goodyear/rich whatever company, and the
nut
>is not used on our application. Take it OFF. On some installations the
>nut/washer combo is used on the inner rim, or as a retainer on the outside
of
>the valve stem.
>
>
>Ed Storo RV-8 qb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Certified Prop/engine Combinations |
I am getting paranoid before my FAA inspection next week. Have heard some
stories about my FAA Inspector, and seen one of his certifications he did for
a Migit Mustang. He is making the guy go his full 40 hours and then request a
re-inspection to give out his out of test area certification. It has to do
with the engine/prop the guy is using. (3 bladed experimental prop)
I claimed, in my application letter, that my engine prop combination was
certified, and therefore expect only 20 hours in the box. But if he asks me
on what aircraft it is certified, I am going to have to plead ignorance.
The combination is Vans factory deal, a 0-360 A1A with a Hartzell H-C2YK-1BF
and a Woodward Govenror.
Anybody name the aircraft this combination is certified on?? or is it enough
that they are certified individually?
Bruce Patton
Waiting FAA inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Prop/engine Combinations |
>
> I am getting paranoid before my FAA inspection next week. Have
heard some
> stories about my FAA Inspector, and seen one of his certifications
he did for
> a Migit Mustang. He is making the guy go his full 40 hours and then
request a
> re-inspection to give out his out of test area certification. It
has to do
> with the engine/prop the guy is using. (3 bladed experimental prop)
>
> I claimed, in my application letter, that my engine prop combination
was
> certified, and therefore expect only 20 hours in the box. But if he
asks me
> on what aircraft it is certified, I am going to have to plead
ignorance.
>
> The combination is Vans factory deal, a 0-360 A1A with a Hartzell
H-C2YK-1BF
> and a Woodward Govenror.
>
> Anybody name the aircraft this combination is certified on?? or is
it enough
> that they are certified individually?
>
> Bruce Patton
> Waiting FAA inspection
Certified Individually. Get the type certificate data sheet off the
web to prove that they are each individaully certified. I have an
O-320 B2B and a Hartzell prop. The B2B is a fixed pitch engine. By
following the Lycoming Instruction, it is converted to Constant Speed
operation and the Hartzell installed. To fly this in a certificated
aircraft, I would need to complete a 337. The 337 was not necessary
becasue it went on an Experimental during its initial licensing.
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
>Time for the stupid question of the day. How does one install a "wedge" on
>the rudder for rudder trim?
Jim,
My wedge is made of plexiglass and attached with RTV
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
What I am doing is gluing the rudder and elevator leading edge mating (or
faying) surfaces with a structural epoxy, as well as using the pop rivets.
I am also using a stronger pop rivet with a monel shaft. I have used this
epoxy quite extensively in other applications, including gluing all the
ribs to the spars of my Kitfox, and find it quite strong.
Just makes me feel better, as well as sealing any gaps.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q 80591 finishing elevators
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymond graham" <graham5(at)gte.net> |
Would appreciate any info on installation of tiptanks developed by Jon
Johanson and now offered in Van's catalog. I want to install the necessary
plumbing now and purchase the tanks later (maybe). Van's phone rep told me
no written info is currently available from them. Ray Graham, RV-8 wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
Dumb question, Michael, where can I get some of that stuff? and what is it
called? I NEED some...thanks.....jolly
Michael J. Robbins wrote:
>
> What I am doing is gluing the rudder and elevator leading edge mating (or
> faying) surfaces with a structural epoxy, as well as using the pop rivets.
> I am also using a stronger pop rivet with a monel shaft. I have used this
> epoxy quite extensively in other applications, including gluing all the
> ribs to the spars of my Kitfox, and find it quite strong.
> Just makes me feel better, as well as sealing any gaps.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV-8Q 80591 finishing elevators
> Issaquah, WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flipside" <flipside(at)global.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
Doug
Refer to "18 years RV-Aviator" page 30.
In case you dont have a copy of the above publication, Rob Ray mentiones in
the article that the shiny Airstream trailers use a special lacquer based
clear-coating over polished aluminum. You can thin with normal lacquer
thinner and according to Rob it works great. It is called Plasticote and
Airstream dealers sell it.
Costs $75-00 per gallon and cut 50/50, 1 gallon easily covers an RV.
Contact tel number for Airstream dealer nearest you phone (937) 596-6111.
the part number is #360057-03
Once you have polished and applied Plasticote you should not have to resort
to frequent masochism. Airstream should also be able to advise you about
surface preparation prior to applying
Plasticote.
Regards
Brian Salzmann 6A empennage
----------
>
>
> I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
> thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
> fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
> though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
> horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Hormann
> empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Prop/engine Combinations |
<< The combination is Vans factory deal, a 0-360 A1A with a Hartzell H-
C2YK-1BF
and a Woodward Govenror.
Anybody name the aircraft this combination is certified on?? or is it enough
that they are certified individually? >>
Certified on a Mooney M20 I was told.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
<< Dumb question, Michael, where can I get some of that stuff? and what is it
called? I NEED some. >>
This structural epoxy is 3M #2216 Gray. R.S. Hughes carries it. Skystar (the
Kitfox folks) also sell it.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | left elevator stiffener |
Guys, I see that Glen Wagner had this same problem, but I
didn't see any responses. Here's his original question:
"Question regarding RV8 left hand elevator, inboard
stiffener position (this is
the stiffener that is mounted on the upper elevator surface,
over the elevator
trim motor).
Drawing 4PP indicates 5 1/8 inches to the LEFT edge of the
stiffener (all
other dimensions are to the RIGHT edges of the stiffeners).
The drawing
indicates this stiffener is positioned over the left side of
the trim motor
opening (I realize that the stiffener is not mounted on the
same surface as
the trim motor opening) however if you measure 5 1/8 inch to
the LEFT edge,
the stiffener will be positioned over the center of the trim
motor opening.
Either the drawing has the wrong dimension or it incorrectly
depects where the
stiffener is in relation to the trim motor opening. Any
thoughts?
Glen Wagner
RV8 Left Elevator"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator and mag cooling |
>How many holes can we put in our baffles before we reduce the pressure
>enough to affect the primary purpose of cooling the engine.
>How many holes do others have and do you have cooling problems.
I have cooling problems: I haven't been able to get my cylinder head
temperatures ABOVE 325. I have to block off the oil cooler air intake 50% in
the summer and 95% in the winter!
In the -4 anyway, cooling is NOT much of a problem. I and looking at
narrowing my inlets but that involves FIBERGLASS and I think it is just fine
the way it is, thank you very much.
Oh, I have: 2" for cabin air; 2" for cabin heat; 2" for oil cooler; 3 3/4"
for blast cooling (alt, mags, gascolator).
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
Ray
I am building a RV6 my wings are completed, and I did the plumbing work for
the tip tanks, I have a set of instructions that was sent to me by Jon - that
gives the necessary information, they are at my hangar. If you have a fax
number I will Fax them to you.
Largest cost item was the one way fuel flow valves that stop the fuel from
flowing back into the tip tanks. And a couple of AN fittings and your there.
Took about 2 hours to do both tanks. I also purchased a couple of caps - so
if I dont have the tanks in the early stages of flight the main tank can be
closed off.
Email to BSivori @Aol.Com
Later
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Certified Prop/engine Combinations |
BRUCE WE GOT A 10 HR FLY OFF WITH THAT COMBO. WE GOT A NOTE FROM VAN SAYING
HOW MANY RVs [300+] areFLYING THAT SET UP
TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD
LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
> I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
> thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
> fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
> though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
> horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Hormann
Doug,
I've tried to keep my -6A polished since I got it flying last May. First, I
bought a Cyclo polisher from Aircraft Spruce, and used Rolite polish. The
first time I polished it, man did it look good! Of course, never mind it took
me a whole week to polish, and I skipped doing the bottom. Polisher only
weighs 6 pounds, but try holding it up under the wing with enough force to
work the polish, I think you get the idea. Then after a few hours flying, the
leading edges get coated with bugs. I've got some special bug remover that's
made to be used with polished aluminum, but after using it, the leading edges
need to be re-polished in order to look as good as the rest of the wing. And
then there's dust. After sitting in the hangar for a few weeks, the airplane
is coated with dust, and any attempt to remove it leaves scratches in the
polished surface, and don't even try to wash it off with soap and water. There
goes the polish job, ask me how I know. So, I found out that the company that
makes the buffers for American Airlines is here in Tulsa! So, I managed to get
to try out one of their buffers on my left wing. These things have a roller
type buffing pad, it looks like a really fat paint roller, that is driven with
compressed air. Man do these things leave a shiny surface! Made the aluminum
look like a mirror, and I thought the Cyclo did a good job! And quicker, too!
Problem is they cost $1000.00 each, and require 20 CFM of 90 psi air. Do you
know how much a compressor cost that will supply this much air? So the bottom
line is that I can either continue punishing myself twice a year with the
Cyclo, or spend the money for a good paint job on the great buffer and
compressor and still have to spend 20~25 hours twice a year to polish it. So,
right now, my airplane has the shiniest left wing I've ever seen, a bug coated
right wing, and dusty fuselage with water spots. I'm currently working on
paint schemes and what kind of paint to use, I've decided that polished
airplanes look better when they belong to someone else! Interested in a good
deal on the Cyclo polisher? Hardly been used!
Mark "Paint that sucker" LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, OK
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Moore" <spud12(at)email.msn.com> |
Got a ride in the Rocket yesterday, and Oh Man! What a machine. Thank you,
Mark, for an amazing few minutes. Where do I sign?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | O-290's in RV-4's |
Listers,
I friend of mine (sans web access) is considering building another RV.
He wants to apply budget tightening measures this time around and avoid
the IO-360 with CS route. Does anyone know of any RV-4 flying with stock
O-290's in them. He is especially interested in C of G observations,
gross weights etc. I know there has been some discussion lately about
hopped up 290's, but he wants just a stock engine. The idea is to build
a really light, day VFR machine with wood prop. Please reply privately
with a phone number if possible and he will contact them directly.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
thank you, kindly sir! I see we don't live too far apart..I'm in aurora,
oregon...is rs hughes there in washington?....jolly
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << Dumb question, Michael, where can I get some of that stuff? and what is it
> called? I NEED some. >>
>
> This structural epoxy is 3M #2216 Gray. R.S. Hughes carries it. Skystar (the
> Kitfox folks) also sell it.
>
> -GV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double sided carpet tape |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim
The double sided carpet tape ......comes in very handy as an extra set of
hands.
---- and ----
I'd rather give myself a root canal every day for a year than polish another
airplane.
Hmmm... So that's how you do your own root canals! More money for flying!
( Sorry, too good to pass up)
Ivan rv-4 500+
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Got a ride in the Rocket yesterday, and Oh Man! What a machine. Thank you,
Mark, for an amazing few minutes. Where do I sign?
>>
Well, I enjoyed it too! Keep in touch- I'll ask for a deposit after I get
parts is hand.
Still grinnin'?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
-----Original Message-----
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 1998 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Aluminum polishing
>
. I've got some special bug remover that's
>made to be used with polished aluminum.
Could you provide more info on the cleaner? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
There have been a lot of threads lately on oil cooling. I finally got
around to permanently fixing a problem with low oil temps in the winter (all
you Phoenix people can hit delete now...)
FWIW I have a firewall mounted cooler with a 3" SCAT tube off of the right
baffle. I mounted a cockpit adjustable door on the cooler exit. The door
can adjust temps through about a 25 degree range. Once OAT is below 40, I
can't get the oil temp above 165. I had been blocking off 3/4 of the inlet
during the winter, but that involves taking off the top cowling. Since the
seasons do not change very cleanly around here that involved a lot of
hassle. If the OAT changes very much I have to alter the amount of air
entering the inlet.
So I finally made an adjustable aluminum inlet door that slides across the
opening. It rides in a simple "track" on the top and bottom and has a tab
that extends through a slot in the rear baffle. Now it is a simple matter
to adjust the inlet door through the oil door (no more cowl removal!) and
fix it in place with a piece of duct tape (which also seals the tab slot).
If you really wanted to you could make it cockpit adjustable, and it would
probably be more effective than the outlet door. However, this setup gives
very complete control. The inlet door gives a very coarse control for the
season, then the adjustable outlet door gives fine control for in-flight
variations. I can keep my temps right at 180-190 no matter what nature
throws at me.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Moore" <spud12(at)email.msn.com> |
Grinning? Are you kidding? The reaction you get just taxiing up to the gas
pumps is worth the price of admission!
>Still grinnin'?
>
>Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)cwcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Phoenix |
Attention all in Phoenix, Arizona!
My co-builder, partner in crime, is on a (literally) flying visit to Phoenix at
the end of January, (30th to be precise).
Is there any good haunts in the area for Lycoming engine parts,
avionics/instrument shops or (commercial) electical component suppiliers?
Also, if there are any RVs close-by info would be appreciated.
Feel free to reply off list to me at parravion(at)cwcom.net
Many thanks and a happy new year to one and all.
Jerry Parr
Peterborough, England
RV-6, G-RVVI
Baffled and wired - nearly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>Would appreciate any info on installation of tiptanks developed by Jon
>Johanson and now offered in Van's catalog. I want to install the necessary
>plumbing now and purchase the tanks later (maybe). Van's phone rep told me
>no written info is currently available from them. Ray Graham, RV-8 wings.
How about info on retrofitting the tips to an RV-4. Has anyone done that yet?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil France" <nfrance(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Oil temp and tacho on O-360 |
Dear all,
I am installing a RMI monitor on a QB6 with O-360 engine, I am
looking for a suitable oil temperature sensor to fit the threads at the rear
of the engine, also, as the tacho' is electrically operated, can I get a
blanking cap / plug to cover the hole for the cable driven unit? I don't
seem to be able to find either item in any of my catalogues.
Thanks.
Neil France.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tubes and Mounting Brackets |
I can supply to you a complete RV aircraft installation kit of all the
parts and hardware you will need for an easy installation of a very
attractive Pitot Tube. My kits are offered in several forms to best
suit your installation need. My brackets kits are of extreme high
quality and assembled from all laser cut materials to insure accuracy
from part to part. My accurately and professionally welded mounting
brackets are made to fit either the AN5812 or the AN5814 pitot tubes
without any modification of the mounting bracket. I provide you with a
choice of finish of the mounting bracket in either a highly polished
chrome finish to match the pitot tube, or a paintable finish. I provide
a backing plate that fits inside the wing skin to provide the necessary
strength for the bracket that has a precise laser cut hole for the
streamline tube of the mounting bracket to easily slide through. Also, I
provide a washer plate that also has a laser cut hole to match the
streamline tube that provides a precise means to align the pitot tube
accurately into the airflow at the proper angle of attack. My kits come
with complete installation instructions along with photos showing the
process. I can also provide to you new AN5814 12 volt pitot tubes. If
you are building an aircraft other than a RV, I can provide a pitot tube
mounting bracket in the non-kit form.
If you are interested in this product, contact me, I will answer any
questions you may have and send you a flyer of the product that has
photos of the parts that make up the kit.
My prices are as follows. You really do get what you pay for.
All prices INCLUDE shipping in the U.S.
Mounting Bracket only (Chrome) non-kit $85
Mounting Bracket only (Paintable) non-kit $55
Mounting Bracket KIT for RV's (Chrome) $105
Mounting Bracket KIT for RV's (Paintable) $85
AN5814 12 volt Pitot Tube (Chrome) $190
I also sell other products related to building you RV. Contact me and I
will tell you about them.
Gretz Aero
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Prop/engine Combinations |
> > The combination is Vans factory deal, a 0-360 A1A with a Hartzell
> H-C2YK-1BF
> > and a Woodward Govenror.
> >
> > Anybody name the aircraft this combination is certified on?? or is
> it enough
> > that they are certified individually?
Funny you should ask! I have been researching this issue recently for a
different reason. I had heard that some combinations are supposed to be
placardaded against operation in certain ranges, so I decided to go get
to the bottom of it. What resulted is an article I'm writing for our
local RV newsletter (and probably the RVator). For the full poop you will
need to wait for the article, but here's the short version:
- Yes that engine/prop combination is approved.
- It doesn't matter what production airplane it's been approved on,
testing is done on engine test stands.
- For the HC-2YK hub with 7666 blades, the following placard is required:
"Avoid Continuous Operation between 2000 and 2250 r.p.m."
(Whether or not we have to put these placards on our experimentals is
debatable, however I'm not going to take a chance.)
- The approved combinations, operating limitations and required placards
are in FAA Type Certificate Data Sheets, on the web at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcd5prop.htm. For the HC-2YK,
the one you want is P-920.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Y'all:
Please be very careful about putting tip tanks on anything . . . .
especially an RV-4, which is already sensitive to aft CG stall/spin
characteristics. The spin characteristics (rotational moment of inertia)
change dramatically when weight is added so far out. I would guess Jon
never had any intention of stalling his airplane as he made the round the
world trip.
I heard a story a little while back about a Pitts pilot that wanted to
offset the weight of his new CS prop and engine; the recommendation was for
something like 20 lbs. under the aft seat. He decided if 20# is good under
the aft seat, he would get the same CG if he put 10 lbs. in the tailcone.
He died, failing to recover from a flat spin. Please don't quote me on the
exact numbers, but the moral of the story is to think out the modifications
YOU are going to do to YOUR airplane. This pilot gave up his life for 10
lbs. of lead.
Look Before Leepin'.
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil temp and tacho on O-360 |
> looking for a suitable oil temperature sensor to fit the threads at the rear
> of the engine, also, as the tacho' is electrically operated, can I get a
> blanking cap / plug to cover the hole for the cable driven unit?
I got my oil temp. sender from Spruce, used the Mitchell one (actually
VDO), p/n 10-25180. Don't know if this is right for the RMI monitor
or not, but it looks to be pretty "standard".
As for the tach plug; someone asked this recently, as I recall the
response was that Avery sells one. I'm sure it's in the archives.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | New RV Products from Gretz Aero |
Gretz Aero has some new products that I do not have flyers for yet, but
I have them in stock and are ready for sale. These prices should match,
or beat the prices from other sources. As always, my prices INCLUDE
shipping in the U.S. If you would like flyers on my other products not
listed here which include: Heated Pitot Tubes, Heated Pitot Tube
Mounting Bracket Kits, An Alternative Mounting Kit for the MAC Servo
Elevator Trim, and ToolKey (an attractive key fob tool to open the fuel
caps and has your aircraft model laser cut into the head of the ToolKey)
Please contact me.
My newest products: (prices INCLUDE shipping in the U.S.)
ELT---Ameri-King AK-450 (currently the most popular ELT on the market)
supplied with 6 new D Duracell batteries and all mounting
hardware.----$194
Altitude Encoder---Ameri-King AK-350 (currently the most popular
Altitude Encoder on the market) supplied with all hardware.----$162
GPS antenna, NON-CERTIFIED---made by Micro-Pulse. It is a very small
antenna with extremely low drag, and is designed to be mounted through
the skin. It is an amplified (26 dBi gain) antenna like the certified
aircraft GPS antennas listed below. This small antenna has exactly the
same internal components and specifications as the certified antenna
listed below except it does not have the filters installed for out of
band rejection of signals as needed for aircraft certification and as
used on large commercial aircraft with many transmitters that might
inter fear with GPS reception. This should not be a concern of sport
pilots using this much cheaper antenna. Available in black, but can be
painted with nonmetallic type of paint----$75
GPS antenna, CERTIFIED Made by Micro Pulse and designed to be used on
certified aircraft. (see antenna above for description of differences in
certified and non certified) This antenna also has 26 DPI gain like the
less expensive antenna above. It is designed to mount through the skin.
Available in white----$250
RF cables,--- I can make up all your RF cables to custom lengths, with
whatever connector you need. These could be used for your
Transmitter/Receiver, VOR receiver, GPS receiver, Transponder, ELT
transmitter or any other transmitter or receiver. I use all new Belden,
small diameter, very low loss RF coax (lower loss than the cable
normally supplied or used with most transmitter/receivers
installations-- this lower loss coax will make your signals stronger)
and I use only the best in low loss, and high quality connectors that
are correctly installed and checked by a RF professional.---- Call me
for your coax needs and pricing. I will have lower prices and higher
quality than your local avionics shops for the same cable.
Gretz Aero
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
ED:
Does your cockpit adjustable door over the outlet side of the oil cooler cover
the complete cooler, or just a portion of it? I am interested in doing
something similar.
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil temp and tacho on O-360 |
The sensor can be purchased directly from RMI. The sensor housing can be
purchased through GBI as can the Tach cover.
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil France <nfrance(at)avnet.co.uk>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 1998 9:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil temp and tacho on O-360
Dear all,
I am installing a RMI monitor on a QB6 with O-360 engine, I am
looking for a suitable oil temperature sensor to fit the threads at the rear
of the engine, also, as the tacho' is electrically operated, can I get a
blanking cap / plug to cover the hole for the cable driven unit? I don't
seem to be able to find either item in any of my catalogues.
Thanks.
Neil France.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | How to determine static system errors |
RV Listers,
I have posted a guide to determining static system errors. It is available
as a link from my RV Links page, under the flight test section
<http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html>. Let me know what you think.
Is it clear and easy to understand? If not, which areas need cleaning up?
Also, please let me know if you find any errors that I missed.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
So Bob,
I take it you don't think polishing is a good idea!!:)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Aluminum polishing
>
>Doug,
> First, you get out your RONCO, home lobotomy kit-----:)
> When we had a polished 170, we used ROLITE metal polish. I think we
>bought it from the EAA. We also tried MOTHER'S but liked the Rolite the
>best. To make removal easier (yeah, right) we dusted rags with flour which
>made removal a little easier.
> It seems that all we got done was polish that bird. And, we were lucky.
>It was a 1948 rag wing. If the plane was parked outside, any moisture
>collected dust, etc. and it was time to start over. I'd rather give myself
>a root canal every day for a year than polish another airplane.
> I flew the test hours off my six with it unpainted. There were several
>times when I was almost blinded by the reflection and my eyes took awhile
to
>adjust and this plane wasn't polished.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>>I know! I know! You'll all think I'm some sort of masochist, but I'm
>>thinking about polishing the tail and wings on my -6 and painting the
>>fuselage. I haven't found anything in the archives about how to do it
>>though. What do you use to polish, etc. I'm going to try it on my
>>horizontal stabilizer and see if it's worth the trouble.
>>Regards,
>>Doug Hormann
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
BSivori(at)aol.com wrote:
> I am building a RV6 my wings are completed, and I did the plumbing work for
> the tip tanks, I have a set of instructions that was sent to me by Jon - that
> gives the necessary information, they are at my hangar. If you have a fax
> number I will Fax them to you.
>
> Email to BSivori @Aol.Com
Could I get you to fax that information to me as well.
Thanks in advance. Also, are you using the tanks Van's sells?
Shelby Smith
800.899.2777 FX/voice daytime only
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil temp and tacho on O-360 |
You can get the tach plug from Avery.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Dear all,
> I am installing a RMI monitor on a QB6 with O-360
>engine, I am
>looking for a suitable oil temperature sensor to fit the threads at
>the rear
>of the engine, also, as the tacho' is electrically operated, can I get
>a
>blanking cap / plug to cover the hole for the cable driven unit? I
>don't
>seem to be able to find either item in any of my catalogues.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Neil France.
>
>
>
>
> List Support Contributions:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
WAIT RIDE IN MY 8
TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: left elevator stiffener |
Adrian Chick wrote:
>
>
> Guys, I see that Glen Wagner had this same problem, but I
> didn't see any responses. Here's his original question:
>
> "Question regarding RV8 left hand elevator, inboard
> stiffener position (this is
> the stiffener that is mounted on the upper elevator surface,
> over the elevator
> trim motor).
>
> Drawing 4PP indicates 5 1/8 inches to the LEFT edge of the
> stiffener (all
> other dimensions are to the RIGHT edges of the stiffeners).
> The drawing
> indicates this stiffener is positioned over the left side of
> the trim motor
> opening (I realize that the stiffener is not mounted on the
> same surface as
> the trim motor opening) however if you measure 5 1/8 inch to
> the LEFT edge,
> the stiffener will be positioned over the center of the trim
> motor opening.
> Either the drawing has the wrong dimension or it incorrectly
> depects where the
> stiffener is in relation to the trim motor opening. Any
> thoughts?
>
> Glen Wagner
> RV8 Left Elevator"
Adrian,
I may not be interpreting Glen's question quite right, but I will make a
comment that may shed some light on the situation. Plan 4pp shows the
top stiffners. The stiffner webs are located onthe right side of the
stiffners on the top skin of left elevator, except the stiffner in
question. It is on the left side of the stiffner. This moves it over
out of the way of the motor. So, this stiffner is made backwards of all
the other stiffners in the left elevator. Hope this answers the
question?????
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings (same elevator as -8)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
whays(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> writes:
> >
> > Third, I've intalled two of the fuse blocks. One for my
> >essential
> >buss and the other for the main buss. Again, the hardest part is
> >just
> >figuring out where to mount them so that you can reach them (and I
> >don't
> >mean reach them in flight, but when you're on the ground).
> >
> Randy,
> Where did you mount your fuseblocks. I'm still trying to explore all the
> possible alternatives.
>
> Thanks,
> Wes Hays
> RV6-A
> Rotan, TX
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
I'm not Randy, but thought I'd respond. I too, used two fuse blocks for main
and essential buss. I thought quite a while, before I decided to make a tray to
mount both fuse blocks and the silicon diode in. I then mounted it beneath the
IP above the passenger's knees, hinged in the back (actually forward side), so
that it could drop down to expose the fuses. It is held up with two thumb-screw,
quarter turn fasteners.
I haven't flown yet, but so far, it has worked good for the wiring.
Warren
Finishing up the details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tiptanks-Retrofitting? |
I was wondering the same thing to anyone who has retrofitted the tip tanks or
is familiar with what must be done please enlighten us. I have my RV4 wings
completed but would like to install the long range wing tip tanks for those
times when I need the additional range. Not to kick an ant bed but the RV4 is
not especially sensitive to aft CG only CG's aft of the operating envelope
wherein the RV4 becomes increasingly a handful as the CG gets further behind
the aft limit pretty much typical of most aircraft. Furthermore the RV4 does
not have bad spin characteristics anymore so than the 8 and certainly better
than the 6 and better than quiet a few certified aircraft that have those Big
"Do Not Spin" placards on the panel. I have in fact spun a 4 so I have been
there. I anticipate that the tip tanks would in fact degrade the otherwise
pleasant spin characteristics of the RV4 when filled and therefore I would
only fill them when making a cross country flight and not an afternoon of
unusual attitudes. What would the additional weight of the empty tanks add to
the aircraft vs the standard tips? JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tiptanks-Retrofitting? |
Maybe I am exaggerating, but when my -4 is loaded to the max, and right at the
aft cg, you have to be very careful with takeoff's, and landings, especially on
gusty days. It keeps me on the edge of my seat. Nothing dangerous, just definitely
spicier. On days like that, I wouldn't mind if the horizontal tail surface
was a little larger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
Jolly;
As G.V. stated, it is a 3M product available from R. S. Hughes. There is a
store in Seattle, and I believe they are nation wide. Their 800 number is
1-800-562-1530. The part number G. V. mentioned, #2216, is a quart kit.
What I use is an applicator that uses small packs of adhesives. It
dispenses the base material and catalyst at the same time in the correct
proportion. It is called a Scotch-Weld EPX Applicator and uses Duo-Pak
adhesives. The epoxy I use is part No. DP190. It is the same as the 2216.
You can also by several other types of adhesives (like 5 minute epoxy)
that uses the same applicator. It's real handy for small jobs.
By the way, their never is such a thing as a dumb question.
Mike Robbins
RV-8
Issaquah (near Seattle) WA
>
>thank you, kindly sir! I see we don't live too far apart..I'm in aurora,
>oregon...is rs hughes there in washington?....jolly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
<< Does your cockpit adjustable door over the outlet side of the oil cooler
cover
the complete cooler, or just a portion of it? I am interested in doing
something similar. >>
I have a complete door over the rear of my Niagara oil cooler and, when
completely closed, it allows the cruise oil temp to be maintained at 175 deg F
in 35 deg F ambient air. My cooler is mounted on the left rear baffle of the
6A and the front opening in the baffle is about 90% of the heat exchanger fin
area (one corner obscured by cylinder barrel fins is not open).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
<>
R.S. Hughes is in several states, I believe. The one I know of is right here
in Silicon Valley 408-739-3211 Calif.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | right elevator E-609 |
My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I don't seem to
be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the E-609 rib to
the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I don't have any
bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing it up trying,
do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here? I have a few
of the right size.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by TTACS.TTU.EDU
| From: | "Charles R. Chandler" <ylcrc(at)ttacs.ttu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tiptanks-Retrofitting? |
I don't suppose there are tip tanks for RV3's are there? I could
definitely use one or more auxiliary tanks for cross country flights. But
they would have to be removeable and the plumbing could not add much weight,
since I mainly do aerobatics in the plane.
Chuck
RV3 N893FS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
thanks...happy new year!...jolly
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> < oregon...is rs hughes in washington?....jolly >>
>
> R.S. Hughes is in several states, I believe. The one I know of is right here
> in Silicon Valley 408-739-3211 Calif.
>
> -GV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator leading edge |
It sounds like just the ticket ...thanks.....happy new year!.....jolly
Michael J. Robbins wrote:
>
> Jolly;
>
> As G.V. stated, it is a 3M product available from R. S. Hughes. There is a
> store in Seattle, and I believe they are nation wide. Their 800 number is
> 1-800-562-1530. The part number G. V. mentioned, #2216, is a quart kit.
> What I use is an applicator that uses small packs of adhesives. It
> dispenses the base material and catalyst at the same time in the correct
> proportion. It is called a Scotch-Weld EPX Applicator and uses Duo-Pak
> adhesives. The epoxy I use is part No. DP190. It is the same as the 2216.
> You can also by several other types of adhesives (like 5 minute epoxy)
> that uses the same applicator. It's real handy for small jobs.
>
> By the way, their never is such a thing as a dumb question.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV-8
> Issaquah (near Seattle) WA
>
> >
> >thank you, kindly sir! I see we don't live too far apart..I'm in aurora,
> >oregon...is rs hughes there in washington?....jolly
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Headsets For Sale |
I have two pairs of headsets that I would like to sell. One pair of David
Clark 13.4 and one pair of Flightcom Blackhawk 5DX. You can see pictures of
them at:
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er/headsets.htm
Please contact me off list if interested.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: right elevator E-609 |
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I don't seem to
> be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the E-609 rib to
> the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I don't have any
> bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing it up trying,
> do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here? I have a few
> of the right size.
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Tom,
If I remember correctly, there are two 3/32" flush head rivets that hold
the E609 to the spar. I gently bent the E609 until I could get the
squeezer in there, squeezed them, and then bent it back to the correct
angle.
Another note, the Wd605 rivets do not go through the E609 flange when
the Wd605 is riveted onto the skeleton. Plan 4pp makes it look like
there are 4 rivets holding the E609 to the spar but Van's says only 2
flush rivets. Plan 5pp shows the rivet pattern in the Wd605. The 3/4"
distance puts the rivets real close to the E609 flange. Make sure these
holes are not too close to the E609 flange so when the rivets are
squeezed the shop head won't be overlapping the flange. I adjusted the
3/4" dimension a little. Check the archieves for tips on how to align
the Wd605.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airbox on "S" Cowls |
Having somehow miraculously made it through the baffle installation, I am
finding that installing my airbox on the S type cowl (RV-8) is a bit
tricky. I am having a difficult time getting the nose to center with the
inlet of the cowl, and at the same time keep the edge distance on the top
plate to mount plate adequate. The 'tape it together' technique takes
alot of time; Tape it in place, mount the lower cowling and then remove
the lower cowling, retape it in place and so on. After a couple of hours
of this, I still could not get a good line up in all the axis. Also I am
having a problem with the left side of the airbox wanting to contact the
left side of the air scoop. This is because you have to rotate the airbox
about 5 degrees to the right, which makes the left side of the airbox go
over too far. Anyway, I need some tips from those of you who have been
there, there has to be a better way. Also, the rear of the actual air
filter seems to interfere with the drain 'bump' on the back of the
carbureter. It seems like the RV-4 I used to have had a small section cut
out of the air filter to accomodate this. Of course nothing is said about
this in the instructions. As I said before about the baffles, I'll get
there, eventually!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | right elevator E-609 |
I don't recall how I did it, but I would think a Cherrymax rivet would be
just fine. By the way, does anyone out there know where to buy Cherrymax
rivets? I get mine from Aircraft Spruce and Wicks. Boy are they expensive!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Happy New Year everyone
-----Original Message-----
My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I
don't seem to
be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the
E-609 rib to
the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I
don't have any
bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing
it up trying,
do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
> I heard a story a little while back about a Pitts pilot that wanted to
> offset the weight of his new CS prop and engine; the recommendation was for
> something like 20 lbs. under the aft seat. He decided if 20# is good under
> the aft seat, he would get the same CG if he put 10 lbs. in the tailcone.
> He died, failing to recover from a flat spin.
I'm no physics wiz, but if I recall correctly, "rotational inertia" (that's
angular momentum, right?) follows the same rules as simle weight and balance
(lever arms and such). If that is correct, and if it is also true that an
airplane in a spin rotates around its static CG, then I fail to see how the
ten pounds o' lead in the tail puts you in any worse a predicament that the
twenty pounds under the seat, assuming they give the same CG. Can someone
enlighten me? I. too, would like to consider the extra-range option one
day...
Bill Boyd
RV-6A westernVA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <John.Stitches(at)ibm.net> |
Does anyone have any information on General Aviation in India, or any RVs
that are abuilding there ?
I am going with a group to cross India by rail, and I always like to see
what is going on in the world of aviation. In fact if anyone is interested,
we have two spaces left in the group, leaving 13 Jan.
John Cocker
stitches(at)ibm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill <Bearcat(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fitting |
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> >Working on the cowl fitting of our -6A. We have the 'light weight'
> >cowl
> >version. It really wants to align with a tapered gap to the spinner
> >plate.
> >Approx. .25@top and .50@ bottom. This indicates, to me, a possible
> >engine
> >misalignment. I have checked the relationship of the prop spacer
> >flange to
> >the fuselage reference (uppr stringer) and found them to be at 90 deg.
> > Do I
> >have a problem?? I can shim the engine or the mount but am not sure
> >if that
> >is a proper procedure. I think it would get rid of the gap. Does
> >anybody
> >have any suggestions?
> >
> >Randy Lea
> >rllea(at)aol.com
> >sitting on the gear, waiting for a hangar.
> >
> >
> I just fitted an "S" cowl to one of our company planes that is being
> upgraded to become a new transition trainer.
>
> If you install one of these cowls on an airplane with with a newly
> mounted engine on new motor mounts the engine will not have settled to
> its final possition. I install the cowls with the spinner near the top
> of the opening and usually have the engine sag about 1/8" or so
> (sometimes as much as 3/16").
>
> This only partialy explains your problem though, as a 1/4 " difference
> will not be taken up by the engine sagging.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
I am the same spot you are -- fitting the cowl. I have the older style
cowl and the fit left something to be desired, especially at the spinner
location. I was able to apply pressure (clamps, etc.) and heat to cowl
and bend the fiberglass to fit better. Not perfect, just better. The
technique is to clamp into shape you want (actually bend more because it
will spring back a bit), heat hot to touch, let cool completely, remove
clamps. If not right repeat. Good luck.
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F696 Tank Attachment Flange |
Wes,
No "O Wise One" am I, but I have an answer. Dwg 46 is correct. If you put
the flange aft, the bolts would be tough to get at, as they would be behind
the fuselage bulkhead flange.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
> I have a question concerning the F696 Fwd Tank Attachment Flange. In Dwg
> #49 it shows the flange aft with the web(?) attached to the aft side of
> the fwd web on the tank flange. Unless I am reading it wrong Dwg #46
> clearly shows the flange facing fwd with the web(?) attached to the aft
> side of the web on the fwd flange on the tank. I think I have reasoned
> it probably doesn't make any difference, but there may be a mousetrap
> ahead I have not seen.
>Enlighten me O Wise Ones!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
> > I heard a story a little while back about a Pitts pilot that wanted to
> > offset the weight of his new CS prop and engine; the recommendation
was for
> > something like 20 lbs. under the aft seat. He decided if 20# is good
under
> > the aft seat, he would get the same CG if he put 10 lbs. in the
tailcone.
> > He died, failing to recover from a flat spin.
>
> I'm no physics wiz, but if I recall correctly, "rotational inertia"
(that's
> angular momentum, right?) follows the same rules as simle weight and
balance
> (lever arms and such). If that is correct, and if it is also true that
an
> airplane in a spin rotates around its static CG, then I fail to see how
the
> ten pounds o' lead in the tail puts you in any worse a predicament that
the
> twenty pounds under the seat, assuming they give the same CG. Can
someone
> enlighten me? I. too, would like to consider the extra-range option one
> day...
Bill,
Not so. The mass moment of inertia (a quantification of a body's
resistance to angular acceleration) indeed would be significantly greater
in the lead in the tail example as compared to the weight under the rear
seat, assuming both are statically balanced the same. When one moves a
mass away from the center of gravity, it linearly affects the static
balance problem. Hence, 10 pounds at the tail might balance the same as 20
pounds under the rear seat in the above example, assuming the distance from
CG is doubled. However, it affect the mass moment of inertia as a square of
the distance the mass is moved away from the CG. So, in our example,
imagine the 20 pounds is actually two 10 pound chunks at 4 feet from CG.
Accordingly, the 10 pounds in the tail would be 8 feet from CG. In the seat
example, the calculation would be two times 10 pounds times 4 squared
equals 320. In the tail example, 10 pounds times 8 squared equals 640.
So, the additional contribution to mass moment of inertia is doubled in the
case where the mass is in the tail.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
>> I heard a story a little while back about a Pitts pilot that wanted to
>> offset the weight of his new CS prop and engine; the recommendation was
for
>> something like 20 lbs. under the aft seat. He decided if 20# is good
under
>> the aft seat, he would get the same CG if he put 10 lbs. in the tailcone.
> >He died, failing to recover from a flat spin.
> I'm no physics wiz, but if I recall correctly, "rotational inertia" (that's
>angular momentum, right?) follows the same rules as simle weight and balance
>(lever arms and such). If that is correct, and if it is also true that an
>airplane in a spin rotates around its static CG, then I fail to see how the
>ten pounds o' lead in the tail puts you in any worse a predicament that the
>twenty pounds under the seat, assuming they give the same CG. Can someone
>enlighten me? I. too, would like to consider the extra-range option one
>day...
>Bill Boyd
Its been a long time since I took those classes in engineering school, so I
won't even get into a technical discussion on this, but will give some
anecdotal examples of this concept... Moment of Inertia.
Basically, if you push the weight to the ends of a structure, whether its an
airplane or something else, it has more rotational intertia. If its spinning,
it wants to stay spinning, if its stopped, it doesn't want to start spinning.
Examples would be the flywheel on your airplane or car, the long pole tight
rope walkers use,and the batons twirlers use. The Sopwith Camel, on the other
hand, demonstrates the converse. It had a very low resistance to rotation
because all the heavy stuff was right at the cg, and was very maneuverable.
So, yes, if you do attach tip tanks, your airplane will probably (no absolutes
in my world), be harder to get out of the spin. On the other hand, with all
that weight outboard, it will enter a spin more reluctantly.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
>>Would appreciate any info on installation of tiptanks
developed by Jon Johanson and now offered in Van's catalog.
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite
Brian,
There's an article on how to build them in 18 years of RVator
( pg.236 ). Thire 8" long and fit between the end of the wing and the
tip.
They carry 8.5 gal. each. Nothing of great detail but they don't look
that difficult either.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> ...then I fail to see how the ten pounds of lead in the tail puts
>> you in any worse a predicament that the twenty pounds under the
>> seat, assuming they give the same CG. Can someone enlighten me?
Mass Moment of Inertia is W*R
2/g. If I had 20 lb located 5 ft aft of
the CG, I could replace it with 10 lb located 10 ft aft of the CG and
I would stil be in static balance. The mass moment of inertia would
increase by a factor of two (10*10
2)/(20*5
2), 1000/500=2. I would
think this would slow his rate of rotation in a flat spin. However,
the "physics" of a flat spin is out of my mechanical engineering
expertise.
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A, working on fuselage skelton, still!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: right elevator E-609 |
Well, after paying a big price for thoes rivets I found THE place......RICH
INDUSTRIES...PO BOX 22396 Bull Head City Ariz.86439...1-800-240-2777 tell him
Jolly of A-N-Y Aircraft sent you...He gives great service and you'll love his
prices!
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> I don't recall how I did it, but I would think a Cherrymax rivet would be
> just fine. By the way, does anyone out there know where to buy Cherrymax
> rivets? I get mine from Aircraft Spruce and Wicks. Boy are they expensive!
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> Happy New Year everyone
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I
> don't seem to
> be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the
> E-609 rib to
> the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I
> don't have any
> bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing
> it up trying,
> do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
>>
>Randy,
>Where did you mount your fuseblocks. I'm still trying to explore all the
>possible alternatives.
>
>Thanks,
>Wes Hays
>RV6-A
>Rotan, TX
>
Wes
I installed my on a sub-panel above the passengers legs hinged
along the longeron, right underneath the instrument panel. That
way, the wire runs are short, and the panel swings down so that I
can reach the fuses without contorting myself.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
My oil outlet door covers the entire back. I originally left about 10% of
it uncovered in case the door stuck, but I have never had trouble with high
temps, only low ones. When the temps get below 20F I have to have both
doors completely blocked.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>ED:
>Does your cockpit adjustable door over the outlet side of the oil cooler
cover
>the complete cooler, or just a portion of it? I am interested in doing
>something similar.
>Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
Bill said:
>> > I heard a story a little while back about a Pitts pilot that wanted to
>> > offset the weight of his new CS prop and engine; the recommendation
>was for
>> > something like 20 lbs. under the aft seat. He decided if 20# is good
>under
>> > the aft seat, he would get the same CG if he put 10 lbs. in the
>tailcone.
>> > He died, failing to recover from a flat spin.
>>
Alex said:
>Hence, 10 pounds at the tail might balance the same as 20
>pounds under the rear seat in the above example, assuming the distance from
>CG is doubled. However, it affect the mass moment of inertia as a square of
>the distance the mass is moved away from the CG. So, in our example,
>imagine the 20 pounds is actually two 10 pound chunks at 4 feet from CG.
>Accordingly, the 10 pounds in the tail would be 8 feet from CG. In the seat
>example, the calculation would be two times 10 pounds times 4 squared
>equals 320. In the tail example, 10 pounds times 8 squared equals 640.
>So, the additional contribution to mass moment of inertia is doubled in the
>case where the mass is in the tail.
>
Doug says:
Alex has eloquently explained this for the engineers.
For us dumb pilots...
This is generically called the "flywheel effect"or "dumbell effect." If
you have 2 10# flywheels and one is 10" in diameter and one is 20" the
bigger one will store alot more energy and have alot more gyroscopic effect
too. This is the reason why old single cylinder steam engines had huge fly
wheels with spokes to the center and all the mass concentrated at the rim.
This is also the reason why aerobatic airplanes have all their fuel for
aerobatic purposes near the CG or the airplane.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
When applying the UHMW tape for flap protection, could it be put on the
underside of the wing skin. This way it would not be seen and still provide
protection wouldn't it?
John Danielson
Finishing wings on RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Does anyone know how to get ahold of Andy Gold?
Thanks, Norman.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
>
> When applying the UHMW tape for flap protection, could it be put on the
>underside of the wing skin. This way it would not be seen and still provide
>protection wouldn't it?
>
>John Danielson
>Finishing wings on RV-6
>
>
It would provide protection for the underside of the wing skin. If
this is what you want, then go for it. :>)
Most of us prefer to 'protect' the more visible flap skin.
I used the stainless steel tape on the top of the flap and found even
it had scuff marks. I would venture that any paint on the flap would
be worn away in short order if I had not used the steel tape.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
John,
I'll bet that if you put the UHMW tape on the wing, you won't get scuff
marks on your stainless tape.
The question exists; would the UHMW scuff the paint or would it be better to
put tape on BOTH surfaces? Is there room?
-----Original Message-----
From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)home.com>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anti-Chafe Tape
>
>
>>
>> When applying the UHMW tape for flap protection, could it be put on the
>>underside of the wing skin. This way it would not be seen and still
provide
>>protection wouldn't it?
>>
>>John Danielson
>>Finishing wings on RV-6
>>
>>
>>
>It would provide protection for the underside of the wing skin. If
>this is what you want, then go for it. :>)
>
>Most of us prefer to 'protect' the more visible flap skin.
>
>I used the stainless steel tape on the top of the flap and found even
>it had scuff marks. I would venture that any paint on the flap would
>be worn away in short order if I had not used the steel tape.
>
>
>John Ammeter
>Seattle WA
>USA
>1975 JH-5
>RV-6 (sold 4/98)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Does anyone know how to get ahold of Andy Gold?
>Thanks, Norman.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-ATION BOOKSTORE (ANDY GOLD) 970-887-2207 http://www.rvbookstore.com
RV BUILDER RELATED BOOKS AND VIDEOS
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Tiptanks - mass distribution |
Y'all:
Several people are on the right track here. Inertia has to do with weight
distribution (not a linear effect). Without getting into a lot of spin
aerodynamics (of which we (engineers/designers) know very little about as
spin tunnels are just now becoming useful), an aircraft in a fully-developed
spin rotates about a point out in front of the nose (obviously this is not a
constant as a spin is very dynamic). As the weight is moved outward, the
spin will flatten, and AOA will increase . . . bad for recovery. EVERYTHING
effects spin characteristics. There have been recoveries due to things as
simple as flaps, gear, moving a body (weight) forward, opening the canopy,
closing the canopy, loss of the weight of an ejection seat, etc.
Bottom line. If you are the first one to modify an airplane (or fly it in
that configuration or set of conditions), you are a test pilot; plan
accordingly.
Be careful out there,
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
On 30 Dec 98, at 13:45, Jim Cimino wrote:
> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
> have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best
> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must
> be in the pressure lines.
I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes. Seems
to work fine.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tiptanks -Clipped Wings |
OK, I will put a placard on the panel--NO SPINS WITH FULL TIP TANKS OR A FAT
GUY IN THE BACK SEAT!! Has anyone ever clipped the wings on a RV4--in other
words a Rocket length wing but keep the 4 fuselage and overall weight the same
including a 4 cyl Lyc? Just flew my Fox up here to Kansas and is it ever cold
here--500 miles at 84.3MPH through freezing cold will sure cause me to
appreciate the speed of an RV at 184.3MPH. I may have to get my toes amputated
but other than that we are none the worse for wear. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EAA Tech. Coun-Wichita Area |
To RV builders (and other stuff too) in the Wichita area and NE and Central,
OK--I am an EAA Technical Counselor. The mission as you may know is to offer
constructive criticism, a second pair of eyes and a friend. That is what the
Card I carry says on the back anyway. The visits are free and the FAA is
increasingly wanting to see reference to such visits in the Builders Log.
There are certain other benefits also when it comes to initial insurance but
the real benefit is a second party to bounce ideas off of. If I can be of help
to local builders let me know. JR A&P, Kitfox N390SH, RV4 #2280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | EAA Tech. Coun-Wichita Area/Also Seattle Area |
>
>To RV builders (and other stuff too) in the Wichita area and NE and Central,
>OK--I am an EAA Technical Counselor. The mission as you may know is to offer
>constructive criticism, a second pair of eyes and a friend. That is what the
>Card I carry says on the back anyway. The visits are free and the FAA is
>increasingly wanting to see reference to such visits in the Builders Log.
>There are certain other benefits also when it comes to initial insurance but
>the real benefit is a second party to bounce ideas off of. If I can be of help
>to local builders let me know. JR A&P, Kitfox N390SH, RV4 #2280
>
>
Let me add that I am, also, an EAA Tech Counselor. I built an RV-6
back when we had to drill out our own ribs, etc. None of that laser
cut skins and drilled holes for me.
I made mistakes and had to fix them afterwards. I'd be happy to be a
second set of eyes and check out your aircraft for you.
I've been asked when should the project be inspected and how often.
Personally, I prefer to see it before you've gone so far that you
can't correct any possible problems with minimal dollars and time.
Any mistake CAN be fixed but the bigger ones cost more.
That said, I can emphatically say that of the many aircraft I've
looked at virtually all were of exemplary construction. Certainly
better than most Spam cans.
I live in the Seattle area; if you're outside a 50 miles radius call
me anyway. I may know someone in your area or be planning to be in
that area soon, anyway.
Email me for my phone number.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MT and Hoffman props |
Hi listers,
I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been here
for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before I
return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to think
about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back with
me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman props
but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would appreciate
any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality,
maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or maybe
not so useful :
) ) information. Thanks in advance.
Claudio Scremin
Scremm(at)aol.com
RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings)
Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tiptanks -Clipped Wings |
Hi JR-
You and I exchanged some e-mail a few months ago when you were first
relocating to Wichita. Having lived most of my 39 years in Kansas, and 3
of them in Wichita, I know what you're talking about when you say it can
get cold there! But let me tell you, Kansas can't hold a candle to Iowa
in the cold department!!!
Did you find an airport community to live in?
Happy Holidays
martin shorman
lawton, ia
JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
...... Just flew my Fox up here to Kansas and is it ever cold
> here--500 miles at 84.3MPH through freezing cold will sure cause me to
> appreciate the speed of an RV at 184.3MPH. I may have to get my toes amputated
> but other than that we are none the worse for wear. JR
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Vertical Stab Attach |
I just insalled my Vertical stab and had a similar problem. A call to Van's
confirmed that I could drop my vert stab 1/4" without a problem...this wil put
the front spar closer but may not fil the gap you speak of. You could also
make a spacer or make a new 681 with the bend at a different location. Hope
this helps.....
Don Nowakowski
RV-6...Fuselage almost done and finish kit on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
Ed:
Thanks for the info on oil cooling. Now, how are you keeping the cockpit warm
on those real cold days? Will one muff do it??
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a awaiting finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
Hi John,
I put UHMW on the flaps and on the underside of the top skins. The UHMW
will scuff but it doesn't look as bad as scuffed up stainless, IMO. I think
the only way to cut down on scuffing would be to leave the flaps down after
each use and clean the mating surfaces before retracting which would be kind
of a pain, long term.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
> When applying the UHMW tape for flap protection, could it be put on the
>underside of the wing skin. This way it would not be seen and still provide
>protection wouldn't it?
>
>John Danielson
>Finishing wings on RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: right elevator E-609 |
CherryMax rivets should be available from any local, commercial fastener
house. Not your average hardware store but a business that specializes in
commercial applications. Most large areas should have one. In Phoenix, try
FASPECO(Fastener Specialty Co.) Be certain that you do not ask for "cherry"
rivets. You may end up with CherryLoc's which require a special puller and
are not applicable to the thin materials we deal with. One other problem with
the CherryMax: I don't think you will find one with a short enough grip for
this location. Huck also makes a fastener that is similar to the CherryMax.
Good Luck
Randy Lea
rllea(at)aol.com
RV-6A cowl instl-still need a hangar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hose temp ratings |
I noticed that the Aeroquip 306 hoses that came with my Rapco vacuum pump kit
and the Stratoflex 193 hose to my manifold pressure gauge are only rated to
160 deg F. Is this considered suitable for hoses forward of the firewall? If
not will firesleeve make them suitable?
Dave Beizer
Moreno Valley Ca
-6A inst panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: quick poll (too late to reply?) |
Please sign me up!
Sorry for taking so long to reply. I wasn't thinking about my answer...I was
on vacation.
Ever since I finished my -6 I have been waiting for the RV-X 4 seater.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
I am in the process of building the RV-6 (tip-up) instrument panel. At
the left and right ends of the panel is a hole for a screw to secure the
ends of the panel. As it is shown on the plans, the screw passes
horizontally through the panel and into a nutplate that is on the angle
riveted to the fuselage.
I was wondering if I could rivet the angle to the panel and have the
screw pass vertically through the angle and into a nutplate on the
fuselage. The purpose in doing so would be to hide the hold down screws
behind the panel rather than have them visible on the panel. Has anyone
else done this?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hose temp ratings |
Fire sleeves are generally only needed when the hose carries flammables like
gas and oil which will feed a fire. Even if the manifold hose catches fire,
little is lost, especially if you have a restrictor in the manifold. If the
vacuum line burns, you will have more pressing problems than the loss of
vacuum. Both these lines are generally out of harms way anyway. It would be
difficult for leaking exhaust to set them on fire.
-----Original Message-----
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 5:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hose temp ratings
>
>I noticed that the Aeroquip 306 hoses that came with my Rapco vacuum pump
kit
>and the Stratoflex 193 hose to my manifold pressure gauge are only rated to
>160 deg F. Is this considered suitable for hoses forward of the firewall?
If
>not will firesleeve make them suitable?
>
>Dave Beizer
>Moreno Valley Ca
>-6A inst panel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Instrument Cutouts |
Hi All,
Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly
cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel? Also, the punch
I see in avery's only cuts 2 1/4 or 3 1/8 and some of my guages (ie: fuel
guages from Van's) are 2 1/16, not a standard size.
Bill Pagan
"I am but a simple man with simple needs"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: quick poll (too late to reply?) |
Hi,
Gary's email about the poll pushed me over the edge... If you're still
counting,
please add my vote.....I've wanted a 4 place RV since before starting
my 6A.....
perhaps by the time I've finished this one, it'll be ready for purchase??
Happy New Year to everyone!!!
Paul Bilodeau
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Cutouts |
| From: | rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger) |
>
>Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly
>cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel?
>Bill Pagan
>
Bill,
I haven't tried it yet but the local radio shop (Wipaire at So.
St. Paul, MN) offered the following: use a fly cutter, start cut on one
side then finish it from the other. They have a hydraulic hole punch but
their "panel guy" prefers a fly cutter because the two points of the
punch can deform the metal as they pop through. He puts out some first
class custom panels so I'm going to try his method and an ACS panel
template. At any rate, do some prototyping on some scrap and see what you
think. Also, the usual safety rules for fly cutters apply...
Mike Hilger
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Panel Mod |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am in the process of building the RV-6 (tip-up) instrument panel. At
> the left and right ends of the panel is a hole for a screw to secure the
> ends of the panel. As it is shown on the plans, the screw passes
> horizontally through the panel and into a nutplate that is on the angle
> riveted to the fuselage.
>
> I was wondering if I could rivet the angle to the panel and have the
> screw pass vertically through the angle and into a nutplate on the
> fuselage. The purpose in doing so would be to hide the hold down screws
> behind the panel rather than have them visible on the panel. Has anyone
> else done this?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
Glenn- Your plans call out six screws to hold on the instrument panel. I don't
see that the removal of the two outer ones is going to do you much good since
the method you propose is still going to use up panel space where you rivet on
the angle - so you will get rid of one screw in each corner and gain two rivets
in each corner. I suppose cosmetically you could do your whole panel that way
but I think Van was using the KIS principle.
DGM RV-6 Interior painted - lookin' good !
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Cutouts |
Bill,
Mike Hilger passed on information that parallels my own experience. I
used fly cutters on a couple of panels on other airplanes and, although
possibly slower and certainly more dangerous, the holes cut with the fly
cutter were superior to the holes knocked out with a punch. With the fly
cutter, just be sure you clamp your work, use a slow speed and keep your
hands out of the way.
BTW, I like to make my first panel out of something cheap---1/8" masonite.
I lay out all of the gauges, instruments, radio stack, etc. on the masonite.
I then drill a #40 hole at the center of all these items and at the four
corners of the radio stack. I then lay the masonite on the aluminum panel
and mark all of the drilled holes onto the aluminum with a sharpie. I then
cut out all of the holes in the Masonite, drill the screw holes and mount
every instrument just to make sure everything fits where I thought it would.
If there is an interference problem, I make a new masonite panel. If
everything works out fine with the masonite, I have all the instrument
centers marked on the aluminum and start cutting away. Saves re-laying out
everything. I started doing this because my partner on the Glasair took 3
tries to get the metal panel done correctly. That got expensive and it was
frustrating waiting for new material.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly
>cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel? Also, the punch
>I see in avery's only cuts 2 1/4 or 3 1/8 and some of my guages (ie: fuel
>guages from Van's) are 2 1/16, not a standard size.
>Bill Pagan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
>To keep the side skirts on my slider in I am doing two things.
>
>First, I add tabs similar to Orndorff's Video but they are aluminum
>riveted to
>the horiz. tube and the skirt - about a 45 degree angle. I can then
>flute to
>pull the skirt in.
>
>Second, provide an air exit opening (but where?) so that ventilation
>air coming
>in can get back out without pushing the skirts out.
>
>I wonder if it will work?
>
I don't think it is building time well spent to add an air exit opening
for cockpit air in an RV-6(A).
If you look at the corrugated baggage bulkhead and add up the area of all
of those little openings I think you would agree that their is already
quite a bit of exit area.
Now if you are building an RV-4 or 8, a small vent in the aft baggage
bulkhead might not be a bad thing to try, but I am not familiar with any
benefits or drawbacks in doing so.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
>
>Question regarding the clear tape,,
>
>Could this clear tape be used on the top of the flaps as well? Or is
>stainless steel tape still the best option in this area,,
>
>Thanks,
>Derrick, RV-4 N184DA
>
>
If you look closely at the RV-8A prototype you will see that it was done
this way (N58RV was done this way also).
It looks much better in my opinion, and if the curve of the flap skin is
adjusted so that the pressure on the wing skin is at a minimum, the
scuffing of the paint is very minimal.
The problem with putting it on the flap skin is that it is not entirely
clear and it will change the color of the paint on the flap (but not as
much as the stainless tape does :) ).
On the cost issue, a full roll is kind of expensive, but their is hope.
The stainless tape has gotten difficult to buy at a good price so Van's
is in the process of dropping it from the catalog in favor of the UHMW
tape.
You will be able to buy single pieces long enough to do 2 flaps.
A side note about the UHMW tape (I posted on this a year or so ago).
is some of its other uses on an RV.
One of my favorite's is to apply it to all of the surfaces of the baffles
that contact the engine cylinder fins. This will greatly extend the life
of the baffles, by preventing the fins from wearing through the alum.
because of vibration.
Other uses are between the carb. heat door and the air box top to prevent
the door from wearing on the airbox.
Rub points on canopy skirts.
Backs of seats where they rest against support structure.
Use as an insulating layer on the inside of battery boxes adjacent to the
terminal/cable to prevent shorting during box removal and installation.
I'm sure other builders have many other great uses for it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Cutouts |
Don't forget that you can use panelplanner for a CNC Autocad file, and can
have a machine shop cut it for you for about $75. It takes a few phone
calls, but it is possible. If you have trouble finding someone, email
Steve Davis. He is at panelcut(at)aol.com. Steve cuts panels for Aerotronics,
and can take your panelplanner file, or autocad file, and punch it for you
pretty cheap.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 2:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Cutouts
>
>Hi All,
>
>Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly
>cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel? Also, the punch
>I see in avery's only cuts 2 1/4 or 3 1/8 and some of my guages (ie: fuel
>guages from Van's) are 2 1/16, not a standard size.
>
>
>Bill Pagan
>"I am but a simple man with simple needs"
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
I have one muff, and I seriously considered adding a second. However, after
sealing all of the air leaks I found that one was plenty. There is a TON of
air flowing through the cockpit in the stock configuration. The problem
isn't heat generation, one muff puts out a lot of heat, it's the heat
retention that is the problem.
Put non-restrictive boots on the hole in the fuse that the aileron torque
tube passes through, and also on the holes for the flap links. Make sure
your canopy skirt fits flush - I also used some "v" channel plastic weather
stripping that seals under air pressure. Seal all the holes for fuel
lines/wiring from the L.E. of the wings into the cockpit. After I did all
this it stays nice and warm. It doesn't hurt to have a couple of thin
fleece blankets on the *really* cold flights though.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>Ed:
>Thanks for the info on oil cooling. Now, how are you keeping the cockpit
warm
>on those real cold days? Will one muff do it??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
Peter Christensen wrote:
>
>
> Actually, I would be interested in finding more general information on
> NavAid autopilots as well. I couldn't find anything on the web. Does
> anyone have an address or a phone number where I could get more
> information? Thanks.
>
> Peter Christensen
Last time I talked to Navaid on the telephone (423) 267-3311 they
advised that they do not have a web site or E-mail however I was advised
that I could E-mail Horace Brock at home at hbrock(at)mindspring.com or Ray
at rdray(at)mindspring.com
George McNutt, Langley B.C
6A - starting fusealage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT and Hoffman props |
I was recently given a 150 hr. 2 blade MT Prop. The prop has one leading
edge debonding and one of the blade trunion bolts failed torque testing. I
spoke to the factory in Germany and I have to send the blades back for
inspection and repair (if possible). The leading edge repair is no problem
and could be repaired stateside. The trunion bolt is a factory only review
for repair/repair.
So while it was a gift it will still cost a considerable amount of money to
ship to Germany (shipping, insurance, customs.) just to determine if the
trunion bolt torque failure can be fixed. So add the cost of the prop plus
the costs that you may incur if you ever have to ship the blades back to the
factory for depot level repairs. Not to mention the down time.
The more I think about it the more I think this will become an expensive
wall mount!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Scremm(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props
Hi listers,
I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been here
for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before I
return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to
think
about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back
with
me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman
props
but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would
appreciate
any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality,
maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or maybe
not so useful :
) ) information. Thanks in advance.
Claudio Scremin
Scremm(at)aol.com
RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings)
Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
That is what I am doing on my RV4.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve
On 30 Dec 98, at 13:45, Jim Cimino wrote:
> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
> have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best
> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must
> be in the pressure lines.
I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes. Seems
to work fine.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one.
According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a
split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The
new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction
No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a
copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience
replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
be very appreciated!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat problem- Reply |
To install a exit door in the baggage bulkhead is about an hours time. I
did it to mine to control the flow to air somewhat. I plugged the holes
left by the corrugation. The door holes is slightly larger then the area
of the corrugation holes area. Theory, increase pressure when it is cold
and and decrease it when it is hot. It is easily reached with my right
hand. Maybe it will work and maybe it won't make a difference. I will see.
Have a Great New Year!
Denny, RV-6,
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
Questions:
1) Can one ignore the "Flow" arrow on the valve? There is no flow in this
application.
2) It seems as though lever parallel to short face is OFF (can blow thru
valve) and rotation of 45 degrees or more to either side is ON (brake
pressure maintained) -- is this true?
Dennis Persyk finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
>To: Jim Cimino ;
>Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 12:46 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve
>
>
>On 30 Dec 98, at 13:45, Jim Cimino wrote:
December 27, 1998 - January 02, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gc