RV-Archive.digest.vol-gd

January 02, 1999 - January 10, 1999



      >
      >> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
      >> have any instructions and the plans do not include it.  Where is the best
      >> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in.  I assume that it must
      >> be in the pressure lines.
      >
      >I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes.  Seems
      >to work fine.
      >_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
      >Tim Lewis
      >N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
      >Springfield VA
      >http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
      >timrv6a(at)iname.com
      >
      >----------------------------------------------------------------
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Bonding & Riveting Assemblies
To those who have been bonding assemblies in addition to riveting. What is the process ? Are parts primed ? What is the expected weight increase ? Can someone comment on the increase in stiffness and durability of the bonded assemblies. Gary Gembala RV8 Empennage just started ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Aluminum polishing
> Could you provide more info on the cleaner? Thanks I got it from a local company, Airmark Tools. They have a website, WWW.Airmarktools.com, but when I tried to access it this morning, it was down. The stuff I got is out at the hangar, and I'll have to run out there and get the info from it later this weekend. It's called something like Paint and aluminum restorer and cleaner or something. Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV Broken Arrow, Ok MLaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
the last time I did an oil seal on a lyc, it also came as a whole unit....the instructions said to heat it in HOT water, and slip it over prop flange.(be sure you have taken propeller off first) with the special tool provided...It looks like an oversize brake adjusting tool.....you really don't need the tool if you take a narrow putty knife (well padded, so you wont cut the seal) and pry it over the flange...It worked for me...hope it works for you... MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote: > > The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one. > According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a > split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The > new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction > No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a > copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more > experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience > replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal > spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the > pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will > be very appreciated! > > Mark LaBoyteaux > RV-6A N106RV > Broken Arrow, Ok > MLaboyteau(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Mark, My A&P taught me to remove the spring as you suggest then put the seal in some nearly boiling water. Let it heat up and then slip it over the prop flange. It will look like you messed up the seal but check it out a while later and your seal will look like it just came out of the box! It's really not that hard and you end up with a continuous seal and no split to leak. AL > > The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one. >According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a >split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The >new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction >No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a >copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more >experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience >replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal >spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the >pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will >be very appreciated! > >Mark LaBoyteaux >RV-6A N106RV >Broken Arrow, Ok >MLaboyteau(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane3(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly appreciated Dane RV8a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
The April 98 issue of Light Plane Maintenance (An excellent magazine) has an article that step by step explains this procedure. To get a back issue you send $7.00 to LPM Back Issue Dept. 75 Holly Hill Lane, Box 2626 BI, Greenwic, Conn. 06836-2626. Phone # 203 661 6111. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 1999
From: Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com>
Subject: Re: Low oil temps?
HillJW(at)aol.com wrote: > > Ed: > Thanks for the info on oil cooling. Now, how are you keeping the cockpit warm > on those real cold days? Will one muff do it?? It has been my experience that these phenomena are related. When the ability to warm the oil above 160 goes away, so does the ability to warm the feet. I have two heat muffs, and they check out when the ambient gets below about 15 degrees F. The inlet air is so cool at that temp that the exhaust muffed heating won't get it above body temp. This is with RV 6A and 180HP. Perhaps the spring/steel wool trick woud do it but I doubt it. My solution is not to fly when it is that cold unless I have adequate solar heating, which seems to keep me ok down to around zero. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Valve
Dennis Persyk wrote: > > Questions: > 1) Can one ignore the "Flow" arrow on the valve? There is no flow in this > application. > NO! There is a check valve in the parking break valve that allows more pressure to be applied and captured when the parking brake valve is closed. Bruce (Glasair III builder) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-6A shoulder harness cable question
Date: Jan 02, 1999
OK, I give up. Where on the plans does it call out the means of attaching the steel cable to the shoulder harness bracket back there in the tail cone? I would expect to use a Clevis bolt in an application like that. The kit came with four AN 23-11's but they look like they are supposed to go in the rudder cable shackles up front at the rudder pedals. Do I use an AN bolt? If so, it has to be a drilled bolt, right? Steve Soule Puzzled and damn cold (-17 degrees) in Huntington, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: Tiptanks -Clipped Wings
Sorry gang for not getting the address changed and posting this on the list. martin shorman A bone headed writer wrote: > > > Hi ... > > You and I exchanged some e-mail a few months ago when you were first > relocating to Wichita........ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Al Mojzisik wrote: > > > Mark, > > My A&P taught me to remove the spring as you suggest then put the seal in > some nearly boiling water. Let it heat up and then slip it over the prop > flange. It will look like you messed up the seal but check it out a while > later and your seal will look like it just came out of the box! It's really > not that hard and you end up with a continuous seal and no split to leak. > AL > Before you try slipping the new oil seal over the crankshaft flange clean the flange up with scotchbrite or emery cloth to make sure there are no burrs that could marr or cut that new oil seal. George McNutt, Langley B.C. Fuselage bulkheads, 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Franklin engines vs. Lycoming vs. Superior kit
All this info. re. trying to save a buck on an option to Lycomings high price is incredible. If I get the drift of it all, the Franklin costs a lot less...... until you add on the parts that come with the Lycoming. Then the two are within a few grand. While a few grand is nothing to ignore, you still have to come up with an engine mount and that certainly will eat up a few bucks and a lot of time. Never mind that you're experimenting with the location and angle of the thrust line. (shudder) And as far as the Lycoming/Superior price goes, it sounds like exactly the same story. ( Perhaps Superior is targeting folks who have an engine in need of major OH, hence have a lot of the parts not included.) This listing of component prices does illustrate exactly why there is so much disgust with Lycoming. $3000 for a carburetor that is less sophisticated than a $300 Chevy equivilant!? And no, I don't buy the arguement of production run size justisfying the difference. Chevy probably doesn't even make carbs anymore (EPA required fuel injection) so the carb you buy at the local speed shop is a very low production, after market device. But, wait a sec, didn't I read that Van's will reduce the cost of the engine by $800 if you want to delete the carb? Does that mean that I can buy that carb from Van's? The bottom line to all this is that any and all costs quoted/related/conjectured/passed on are, as was aptly put, "quick and dirty". For instance look at the List Price vs. Van's price for a new engine; darn near 2:1. So, I would suggest that we continue the dialog as a way of notifying the sources that a solid market is waiting cash in hand. And for you who've commited to an engine, I would remind you that you'll need an OH or new engine for that next airplane. Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grihen(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Nervous Airspeed Indicator
The needle on my airspeed indicator fluxuates 10-15 kts around 120 kts. I am wondering if anyone else has this problem or a solution. I bought the indicator new from Vans. It seems to fluxuate over a wider range of airspeeds when it is colder out (up to 150 kts). It stays rock steady below 100kts. Just wondering if this is a common indicator problem or pitot tube installation problem. John Henley, N6LD, 140 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
<< What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will be very appreciated! >> Mark, Dont split the seal. The split type is a different part number that is also availabe for your engine. The solid type you have is what I would consider the prefered type because you have 1 less place to leak. The 1 piece is installed by a heat and stretch method. Some boil the seal in water and that works great. I havent tried this in the winter but what I usually do is face my car into the sun and set the seal on the dash for a couple of hours this heats it up enough for the big stretch over the crankshaft flange. Then use a little DC4 (dow corning 4) around the outside of the seal before inserting it in the case. You will find that what ever you decide to do its a fairly simple job. Ryan Bendure Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Mike Flaherty <yogieb(at)argontech.net>
Subject: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement
I lubricate a zip-lock-bag with engine oil and place it over the prop flange. This not only lubs the seal on installation but also protects the seal from possible nicks on the flange. Then use the tool supplied to stretch the seal over the flange. Good luck. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
<< Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly appreciated >> Check six! Mark HR2 308 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one. According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will be very appreciated! Mark LaBoyteaux >> Check your breather for obstruction. Do you have a whistle-hole per Lyc instructions? There are various types of seals: one pc and slit types. The one pc uses a tool to stretch the thing over the crank flange, whereas the slit type is esier to install in the field (with the correct glue). I have also slit the one-pc type when I couldn't borrow the install tool- lasted as long as the others! Some seals are retained by a metal retainer. I had one ship that seemed to destroy a seal every 100 hrs or so. Who knows why? Out of balance condition? I did get fairly good at replacing those nasty rascals, but I never did find the best glue. Get this info from your favorite overhauler. Luckily, my current engine is very tight in that area. One local fella found his seal on top of his engine during a preflight- no sign of leakage! Check the crank for scratches. A scratch along the centerline of the bearing will take out a seal in short order. You can polish these out with fine emery cloth. Goos luck! Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
Hi, I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed. However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thank you, -Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Nervous Airspeed Indicator
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: RV-List: Nervous Airspeed Indicator John, Is there another RV handy that you can swap airspeed indicators with? This should easily identify either the indicator or the plumbing as the problem. My bet would be the indicator! Ken Salmon Arm B.C. > >The needle on my airspeed indicator fluxuates 10-15 kts around 120 kts. I am >wondering if anyone else has this problem or a solution. I bought the >indicator new from Vans. It seems to fluxuate over a wider range of airspeeds >when it is colder out (up to 150 kts). It stays rock steady below 100kts. Just >wondering if this is a common indicator problem or pitot tube installation >problem. > > John Henley, N6LD, 140 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
Date: Jan 02, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 3:17 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 fuel valve mount. > >Hi, > >I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center >console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward >seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins >be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is >to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector >mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed. >However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed >some light on this for me? > >Thank you, >-Glenn Gordon >_________________________________________________________________ Glenn, you are on the right track. Cut out the the down bend on the seat skins in the area where the fuel pedestal tab projects back and mount the top plate of the pedestal under the seat skins. I did that on my RV6 and it has saved me a lot of work in eight years of maintaining my airplane. Martin Sutter RV6 868CM 1,300 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: jerry parr <parravion(at)cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Mark I changed a crankshaft front seal on an O-320 H2AD (C172) a few months back. The advice I got from those who had trod the path before me (including an engine overhaul shop) was as follows: 1) Wrap the prop flange in a plastic bag and insulation tape to make sure there are no sharp edges. 2) Make sure the seal area is clean of all old seal and sealant. 3) Put the spring around the crank and connect the two ends together (its a lot easier to do it now than with the seal there as well). 4) Heat the seal up in some boiling water. 5) Pour a load of engine oil over the prop flange and seal 6) Hold one end of the seal in place with a parrallel punch (or similar) through a prop bolt hole and persuade the seal around the flange with a non sharp-edged (!) implement. 7) Check the seal has ended up the right way round! 8) Remove all the tape/bag/oil etc and make sure the seal area is dry. 9) Flick the spring into the groove in the seal. 10) Leave the seal alone for 30 minutes and have a beer to allow it to regain its original size/form/shape. 11) Apply the approved sealant (sorry can't remember what it is - ask an engine overhaul shop). 12) Push/stick the seal into its proper position. 13) Look at the faces of the amazed people who gathered to watch the miracle stretching of a seal to five times it normal size and return back to its former self. 14) Continue with beer. Good luck! Jerry Parr Peterborough, England RV-6, G-RVVI Baffled and wired - still nearly MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote: > > The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one. > According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a > split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The > new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction > No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a > copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more > experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience > replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal > spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the > pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will > be very appreciated! > > Mark LaBoyteaux > RV-6A N106RV > Broken Arrow, Ok > MLaboyteau(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Date: Jan 02, 1999
One piece seals can be easily stretched over the flange. 1st. Remove the garter spring inside the seal. 2nd. Place a greased plastic baggie over the flange and stretch the seal over the flange. 3rd. Make sure that the seal cavity is clean and place a thin film of sealant in the case. 4th replace the spring. 5th make sure you have a light film of grease on the crank. 6th press it in place. I like to use a block of wood against the seal and carefully lever it in place with a large flat screwdriver working it in slowly and evenly. If you have the split seal, everything is about the same with out stretching. Glue the split together using "superglue" The sealant I like is Loctite 515 or 518. This is a gasket replacer not a locker. -----Original Message----- From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 9:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? > > The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one. >According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a >split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The >new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction >No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a >copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more >experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience >replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal >spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the >pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will >be very appreciated! > >Mark LaBoyteaux >RV-6A N106RV >Broken Arrow, Ok >MLaboyteau(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent)
Subject: rv-6A elevator horn rivets
I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605 flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all. The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609 flange? --- Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: "Charles H. Ennis" <105523.2542(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Mark, Don't cut that seal, unless you really enjoy buying them. To install the solid seal, just heat it in a pan of hot water long enough for it to soften. With a couple of SMOOTH pry bars force the seal over the prop hub. In a short time it will resume its former size and shape. Install the spring and apply the proper cement/sealer and shove it into place. Make sure the crankcase has been well cleaned or the sealer/cement might not do its job. Good luck Charlie Ennis Kentucky (riviting fuselage skins) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Parking Brake 6A Dual Brake System
Date: Jan 02, 1999
This applies to a dual-brake RV6A with Parker 60-5 parking brake valve. Does anyone have a link to a scanned picture of a mounted parking brake valve? That would sure help! Does this mounting sound right? With respect to RV6 Drawing 48R3, 1) Bottom of pilot-side master cylinders connected via Vans supplied VA118 hoses to 90 degree elbows on Parker 60-5 parking brake. 2) Aluminum soft 1/4 tube from straight AN-fittings on Parker valve to wing-area AN833-4D elbows. I am confused about the position of the arm for valve open (parking brakes off) and valve closed (parking brakes on). My valve doesnt seem to agree with Parker Product Catalog p 6-9 Design Information for a 60-5 valve. That drawing shows the valve open with the arm 90 degrees to the broad face and closed with the arm 135 degrees to broad face. My valve appears to be open with the arm parallel to the broad face and closed with it plus or minus 45 degrees from the parallel position. The arm on my valve will not articulate to the positions shown in the diagram on 6-9. Does the valve get mounted above or below the F6122 angle? Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CTonnini(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Mi Inglishi is not to good but i can tel you how to change tath seal with out any tools but your on good hands call me monday 8 to 5 est 1800 5823125 Claudio Purple pasion ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300 bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake, maybe 12 inches or so? thanks Ed Wischmeyer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Ed Wischmeyer wrote: > > Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a > relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300 > bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting > speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Don't bother with the Sears variable speed bench top band saw. The motor has no torque and stalls when cutting thicker aluminum. Normal band saws work well for cutting aluminum with a fine tooth blade. > Are there any drill > presses available without those stupid belts? Nothing wrong with belts in drill presses. If you really don't like belts, a vertical mill with geared speeds could be had for $ 1k-2k. Gary Zilik 6A s/n 22993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CTonnini(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: JGGramt(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
As for that Sears variable-speed band saw, I bought one a couple of months ago. After putting a metal-cutting fine-tooth blade on it, its worked very well for me. The variable speed thing has been handy for using the same fine- tooth blade for cutting metal and wood. So far anyway, I'm pretty happy with it. LTs Jordan and Holly Grant RV-6 Empennage - getting ready to skin the HS [for the past 2 mos] Half-way done with Tweets.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location
Hi, Are there any alternate locations for mounting the manual elevator trim control on the RV-6. I would like to eliminate the center post from the cockpit layout. Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Sure! Right! Speeds slow enough to cut aluminum..... That's the speed to cut wood also. BIG DEAL! -----Original Message----- From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 7:12 PM Subject: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake > >Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a >relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300 >bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting >speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill >presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake, >maybe 12 inches or so? > >thanks > >Ed Wischmeyer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Date: Jan 02, 1999
I agree with Gary with everything except the fine tooth bit. Aluminum clogs teeth gullets but you have to have at least 3 teeth cutting at all times. This is not always possible for very thin material. When you start cutting thicker aluminum, use fewer teeth per inch so they don't clog as quick. Just remember try and have at least 3 teeth cutting. The 3 tooth rule also works for steel. Instead of using the wood cutting speed that you can use with aluminum... 600 to 900 fpm get the fpm down to around 50 for steel, especially 4130. Old Shop Teacher If you really want the fine details, got to a Do-All dealer. -----Original Message----- From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 8:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake > >Ed Wischmeyer wrote: > >> >> Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a >> relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300 >> bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting >> speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. > >Don't bother with the Sears variable speed bench top band saw. The motor has no >torque and stalls when cutting thicker aluminum. Normal band saws work well for >cutting aluminum with a fine tooth blade. > >> Are there any drill >> presses available without those stupid belts? > >Nothing wrong with belts in drill presses. If you really don't like belts, a >vertical mill with geared speeds could be had for $ 1k-2k. > >Gary Zilik >6A s/n 22993 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Darby" <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Mark, You don't have to split the seal. As for it being difficult, If I can do it any one can. The suggestions given so far are adequate, the only thing I might add is to make very sure you have all of the old sealant out of the grove, and that you don't need a special tool, a couple of flat point screw drivers with the edges smoothed down a little with crocus cloth to assure no rough edges or nicks, and have at it. The local FBO made a copy of the installation instructions for me. I thought it would never stretch that far, but it did. John C Darby Jr. RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought Stephenville TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Nafin" <gnafin(at)provide.net>
Subject: RV4 or RV8?
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Well I am at the point that I am going to order my first kit (Empennage ) but now that the RV8 is out dot know witch one to get...I have had the plans for the RV4 for about 5 years not...so I know how it should go. and on the RV8 what more is to it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit
Do you know about the Harmon Rocket II fast-build kit? The Harmon Rocket II is the most awesome, affordable, high performance kit built plane on the market. This plane is now available as a complete fast build kit, with the wings completed and the fuselage 80% completed. All standard accessories, canopy, cowl, hardware, and fiberglass are supplied with the kit! Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please call me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com. Scott Brown Florida RV-Ation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Bonding & Riveting Assemblies
Date: Jan 02, 1999
> >To those who have been bonding assemblies in addition to riveting. >What is >the process ? Are parts primed ? What is the expected weight >increase ? Can >someone comment on the increase in stiffness and durability of the >bonded >assemblies. > >Gary Gembala > - Gary, There is no way anyone could truely answer your last question without build 2 of each assembly and then testing them to destruction. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
Date: Jan 02, 1999
The only thing I can see as an option >is >to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel >selector >mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed. >However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone >shed >some light on this for me? > >Thank you, >-Glenn Gordon > This one of the few design items that I have always been unhappy with about the RV-6(A). Many builders have done as you described, and trimmed the flanges of the seat pan skins so that they can lay on top of the valve mount. Others have trimmed the aft flange of the fuel valve mount plate off all together which is acceptable also. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Date: Jan 02, 1999
>Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for >a >relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed >a $300 >bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the >cutting >speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. - When looking for a band saw don't be concerned with finding one that can be slowed down for metal cutting. This is only required for cutting steel, etc. A band saw that is set-up for cutting wood with any type of finish cutting band saw blade for wood works great for aluminum. When working with aluminum you can use many cutting tools that you would normalcy use on wood. Lately I have been the one to make all of the production tool form blocks which we make out of aluminum (often 7075 which is quite hard). They are made from a big (4 ft. by 4 ft.) 1 inch thick plate that is first cut down to smaller size on the crating shops table saw using a carbide tipped combination blade. The final cutting is done with our wood band saw using a standard (8 to 10 teeth per inch) wood cutting blade. For final finishing, all of the edge radiuses are put on using a 1/16" radius round over bit in a router. As you can see most any tool that you would use for finish work on hard wood (except maybe for drill bits) can be used for aluminum. - Are there any >drill >presses available without those stupid belts? - There are expensive ones available that you don't have to mess with belts to change speeds but considering the cost it is over kill for what you need. - Recommendations for a >brake, >maybe 12 inches or so? > - ENCO and some of the other tool companys sell a combination shear/pressbrake/roller. I have wanted one of these for a long time. You can buy them for about $300 or so, but it is also over kill for most RV builders. For the short simple bends (under 12") that you are talking about, most builders are happy with one of the small brakes that you clamp to the table top. - Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001)
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: PLEASE READ - New List Archive Browsing and Downloading Web Page...
Listers, I've added an all new Archive file Browsing and Downloading page. The index for browsing the archives is now generated each time you go to the page, so only the *available* archive "books" are shown along with the start/end dates. The browsing archives are now also formatted similar to the way the Search Engine returns messages, so reading through the messages should be a little easier as well. I've also added new ftp links to all of the various forms of the archives that are available for download including Plain Text, Zip, and UNIX Compressed. I've added a new line in the posted message trailer that lists the URL for the new Archive Browsing web site. Please have a look; I'm sure you will enjoy the new an improved browsing capabilities! The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/archives Best Regards, Matt Dralle RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Admin. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location
Date: Jan 02, 1999
>Are there any alternate locations for mounting the manual elevator >trim >control on the RV-6. I would like to eliminate the center post from >the >cockpit layout. > >Thanks, >Glenn Gordon > > Many builders that have deleted the center console have just made a small plate out of .063 alum. with a radius on the top and mounted it to the same tab on the fuel valve bracket that the center console was intended to mount to. Make a hole to install the trim cable and you are all set. This keeps it conveniently located right below your throttle hand but still out of the way. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6A elevator horn rivets
tom sargent wrote: > > > I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the > E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the > center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605 > flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all. > The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which > places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those > first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609 > flange? > > --- > Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com > Tom, I responded to your previous question about using cherry-max rivets and addressed this situation. If I understood your previous post correctly, you were questioning using the CM rivets to attach the E609 & E605 to the spar. I bent the ribs out to where a squeezer could reach and then bent them back to the correct angle. When I was at the same point, I contacted Van's and asked them how many rivets hold these ribs to the spar and did the rivets in the Wd405 elevator bracket go through the 609 & 605 flanges. Van's answer was to use two 3/32" flush rivets to attach each rib and none of the Wd405 rivets go through the rib flange. All the strength is gained from the Wd405 attaching to the spar and rib webs. On 5pp, the rivet hole spacing is shown for the Wd405. You are correct, the innermost rivet holes will hit the end of the flange if you use the 3/4" dimension. So, I moved those holes out about another 1/8". Hope this helps. Jerry Calvert Edmond ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Subject: RV-8 Airbox; Help!
Scott and Listers; Somehow after making it thru the baffles, I thought the airbox would be a quick ordeal. WRONG! I have spent 2 days trying to figure this thing out and still have gotten nowhere. I e-mailed Tom at Vans, but he was of little help, his response was 'you just aren't reading the instructions!'. Anyway, with the pre-molded scoop, and the mount plate in position, I am finding that the whole airbox and top plate assembly needs to come down about 1". Of course this puts the airbox on an angle with the mount plate, as well as not letting the filter seal. Horizontal line-up seems to be fine. Its the vertical I am having problems with. I have read and re-read the instructions, and I understand the bend line on the top plate that gets bent up to follow the contour of the airbox, but my problem is the fiberglass airbox needs to come DOWN about 1" to line up with the intake scoop. I could then bend the top plate UP to make the opening the correct size. If you could just give me your basic procedure as it pertains to the RV-8, I would appreciate it. It seems like I heard the RV-6 is the same cowling? For example, I am told you have to cut the filter itself to fit around the carb drain, but this is not referred to in the instructions. Is this necessary? Thanks much. Von Alexander(will be ready to paint when I get done with this #@%***?! airbox!) N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nanheath1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 01/01/99
I have requested to be unsubscribed from this list and received confirmation that I was. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nanheath1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 01/01/99
I have asked to be unsubscribed from this list and received a message that I would be removed. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
Glen, I mounted the fuel valve mount plate per plans (although the plans aren't very clear in this instance) on my six. It is a pain when doing inspections. I have to remove the valve handle and then the top plate before removing the seat pans. On "Gillette Charlie's" RV6A, we lowered the fuel valve mount plate so it is well below the top of 604. In other words, it is not attached to the seat pan area at all, only the two angles that bolt to the front of the spar. This lowered mounting height will come in handy when laying on your back while inspecting under the instrument panel or laying on your stomach when working on brakes, etc. We also put a couple of spacers between the valve and the bottom of the plate so the selector handle is more flush to the mounting plate. We're going to mount the throttle, mixture and prop control on an angle under the instrument panel and will not be using the upright "U" channel in his installation. We put the Gretz electric elevator trim on and will return the long trim cable to Van's. I like the Gretz installation & kind of wish I had one. Of course, it would be easy to retrofit. I prefer this method to the servo being mounted in the elevator. Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center >console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward >seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins >be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is >to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector >mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed. >However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed >some light on this for me? > >Thank you, >-Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
Does anyone have the particulars on an in-flight fire in someone's (Vern Dahlman's?) Rocket on New Year's Day? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com>
Subject: Re: rv-6A elevator horn rivets
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Tom, I just riveted my elevator WD-605 horns to the skeletons yesterday, and here is what seemed right to me: I put a total of (6) 1/8" rivets in each face of each WD-605, except I added one on the centerline to fill a hole drilled to help line it up with the centerline of the spar, per someone else's suggestion. This is in addition to the (2) flush 3/32" rivets near the center of the flange on the E-609 (or E-605 for the left elevator) that hold it to the E-602 spar for assembly. The rivets closest to the intersection for the E-609 or E605 and the E-602 spar went through the flange of the E-609/605. These were the only ones that were difficult to do. After trying to squeeze them, then trying to line them up on the C-frame, then trying to buck them, I found that my no-hole squeezer yoke ($125.00 from Avery) did them just fine. It would have been easier if none of the 1/8" rivets went through the flange of the E-605/609 but I read it the other way. I really can't see that it would make any difference either way. Terry Watson RV-8A Wings coming! > >I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the >E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the >center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605 >flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all. >The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which >places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those >first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609 >flange? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Date: Jan 02, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 3:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake > >Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a >relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300 >bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting >speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill >presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake, >maybe 12 inches or so? > >thanks > >Ed Wischmeyer I don't claim to "really know" power tools but I do have a Sears band saw, appearently similar to the one you mention. I"m satisfied with it - I'm currently finishing the wings on me 6A and have used it several times to make parts. I believe the quality of the work relates more to the nut that holds the work than to the tool but better tools do help. I guess this is a cautious recommendation for the Sears saw. Larry McKee finishing wings - 6A eschew obfuscation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
Dane Sheahen wrote: > > Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing > Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly > appreciated > > Dane RV8a > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847. ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is 805-933-8225 tracy saylor Dane Sheahen wrote: > > Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing > Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly > appreciated > > Dane RV8a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets
I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response, but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere. Mike Robbins RV-8Q right elevator Issaquah, WA >tom sargent wrote: >> >> >> I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the >> E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the >> center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605 >> flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all. >> The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which >> places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those >> first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609 >> flange? >> >> --- >> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com >> >Tom, > >I responded to your previous question about using cherry-max rivets and >addressed this situation. If I understood your previous post correctly, >you were questioning using the CM rivets to attach the E609 & E605 to >the spar. I bent the ribs out to where a squeezer could reach and then >bent them back to the correct angle. When I was at the same point, I >contacted Van's and asked them how many rivets hold these ribs to the >spar and did the rivets in the Wd405 elevator bracket go through the 609 >& 605 flanges. Van's answer was to use two 3/32" flush rivets to attach >each rib and none of the Wd405 rivets go through the rib flange. All >the strength is gained from the Wd405 attaching to the spar and rib >webs. On 5pp, the rivet hole spacing is shown for the Wd405. You are >correct, the innermost rivet holes will hit the end of the flange if you >use the 3/4" dimension. So, I moved those holes out about another 1/8". > >Hope this helps. >Jerry Calvert >Edmond ok -6a wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
Dane Sheahen wrote: > > Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing > Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly > appreciated > > Dane RV8a > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1999
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: MT and Hoffman props
"Steven B. Janicki" wrote: > > I was recently given a 150 hr. 2 blade MT Prop. The prop has one leading > edge debonding and one of the blade trunion bolts failed torque testing. I > spoke to the factory in Germany and I have to send the blades back for > inspection and repair (if possible). The leading edge repair is no problem > and could be repaired stateside. The trunion bolt is a factory only review > for repair/repair. > > So while it was a gift it will still cost a considerable amount of money to > ship to Germany (shipping, insurance, customs.) just to determine if the > trunion bolt torque failure can be fixed. So add the cost of the prop plus > the costs that you may incur if you ever have to ship the blades back to the > factory for depot level repairs. Not to mention the down time. > > The more I think about it the more I think this will become an expensive > wall mount! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Scremm(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:50 PM > Subject: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props > > > Hi listers, > I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been here > for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before I > return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to > think > about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back > with > me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman > props > but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would > appreciate > any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality, > maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or maybe > not so useful : ) ) information. Thanks in advance. > > Claudio Scremin > Scremm(at)aol.com > RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings) > Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Date: Jan 02, 1999
The Sears variable speed bandsaw is excellent, and cost me $208 on sale last fall. I use a non-ferrous metal blade - 13 teeth per inch I think. Like some other Quickbuilders, I make do with a Harbor Freight benchtop drill press - but it works fine and was a bargain at $49! Phil Smith RV 8, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Glenn, I just finished this area. The reason that you can't find a reference on the plans is because there are very few references on the plans. My guess was that it was best to cut, file and drill everything so that all of it was removable. The horizontal plate that the fuel selector mounts to (my plans are out in the shop) is held on to its base pieces by three machine screws on each side. The plans (drawing 47 I think) show that the aft end of this plate has the flanges cut away inch so that it rests on top of the forward seat skins. It took 1 inches on mine. This is where the screws and platenuts fasten to the top of the seat skins. I think the design intent is to use two screws, but as you know the plans are silent about this one. The forward end of this plate is pre-bent into a bracket onto which you install two more platenuts for the engine control console that attaches at its top end to the instrument panel, F-603. At inspection time, you remove the ten screws, not to mention the other fuel line connections, and the plate will be removable. You could also mount the four wing bolts that hold the bracket against the spar so that they point forward. This would allow you to remove the nuts on the wing spar bolts and the fuel console without undoing the fuel lines. I think that is the way I will eventually install those four wing spar bolts, but I would like the A&P types out there on the list to tell me what they think of that idea. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message-----The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins be removed at inspection time? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Insurance for learning to fly
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Stephen J. Soule would like to recall the message, "RV-List: Insurance for learning to fly". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Wire terminals
I have ordered my terminals from AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore, 221sw 153rd.ST.,SUITE #250, Seattle,Wa. 98166 Voice206 242 2527 1 800 431 3789 Web Site http:/members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Fax 206 242 9864 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "warren wassom" <wcwdds(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Vern Dallman's Rocket accident
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Copied from Sacramento Bee Friday, Jan. 1999 PILOT, MECHANIC INJURED............ A Yolo County aerobatic pilot and his passenger were injured whjen an experimental plane crashed on the pilot's private landing strip. Vernon Dallman Jr.,70, of Esparto was trying to land his Harmon Rocket II about 11:50 a.m. Thursday when the cockpit filled with smoke, the Yolo County Sheriffs Department said. Dallman was unable to land without breaking the landing gear and the plane was engulfed in flames. Sgt. Tom Lopez said. Dallman, who offers annual air-safety courses at his airstrip, was able to crawl away from the plane, but his passenger and mechanic, Frank Schelling, 58, of Pleasant Hill, was trapped in the plane until freed by rescue personnel. Both men were hsopitalized with burnes and smoke inhilation.....Associated Press........ I checked the NTSB accident reports........None for January yet posted..No specific info on cause of smoke/fire/accident but thought the paper article might be of interest to those inquiring........ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets
Michael J. Robbins wrote: > > > I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response, > but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator > horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere. > > Mike Robbins > RV-8Q right elevator > Issaquah, WA > Mike, On the -6a plans the horn dimensions are on 5pp on the right side of the plan. I would be lead to believe that even though the -6 and -8 emps are identical(except for rudder), Van's must have updated the plans on the -8 because my horns are called Wd405 and yours are updated to Wd605. They may have put the horn on another sheet. Good Luck Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings do not archieve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WLPMAP(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location
Glenn, I believe last months EAA shows a RV-6 with the manual flap control mounted between the seats, just in front of the flap handle. Mark (6a tail) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Air box height
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Had a the same problem when converting the 0360 to fuel injection my solution was to make a spacer out of one inch aluminum stock. Cut a square piece the correct size drilled it to pick up the bolt pattern and machined out the centre to the same size as the air intake. Hope this helps. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Working on fuse 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Mixing West Systems 410 filler with polyester resin
My container of West Systems 410 microlight fairing filler says not to mix the filler with polyester or vinylester resins. The boat store where I bought the 410 says they've mixed 410 with polysester with good results. I took their advice, and used the 410 mixed with polyester in the attachment of my shimmy dampeners to the gear legs, and in fairing my intersection fairing wet layups. It seems to work fine, but I'm suddenly struck by worry that there's going to be some bad consequence of this mixture. Any insight from the list? Thanks, Tim "worried" Lewis _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ---------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net>
Subject: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360 ( turbo
conversion as well )
Date: Jan 02, 1999
Having considered the various methods by which to get more HP under my RV8-A cowl, I am beginning to think the easiest way may be to have a lycoming 360 hopped up. I noticed that the IO-360 that Vans carries is $28,250. I cannot justify that increase over the 180 HP lycoming they sell ($20,000). Therefore, I am wondering if I could get a hopped up, rebuilt 360 that could produce around 225 HP for the $28,250 instead ( a little bit easier to justify the increase in cost ). Anybody have any recommendations ? The Franklin they are testing ( at 220 HP ? ) could be cool, but I will need the engine by summer. Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net RV6A 345RV 125TT RV8A Fuselage under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1999
From: Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote: > > The only thing I can see as an option > >is > >to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel > >selector > >mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed. > >However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone > >shed > >some light on this for me? > > > >Thank you, > >-Glenn Gordon > > > This one of the few design items that I have always been unhappy with > about the RV-6(A). > > Many builders have done as you described, and trimmed the flanges of the > seat pan skins so that they can lay on top of the valve mount. > > Others have trimmed the aft flange of the fuel valve mount plate off all > together which is acceptable also. > > Scott McDaniels After having removed the seat floor several times over the last two years, yesterday I finally sawed off that vertical flange on the right side and voila, it is now only a 30 minute job to install. It also relieves a lot of scraping and grunting. Like everything else, I have found the need to look at things a lot more than I thought I would. Needless to say, nothing was amiss, but I just wasn't happy (and you won't be either) until I checked to see if that slight play in the pitch axis was a loose bolt or jam nut somewhere. D LW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nanheath1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 01/02/99
I have asked numberous times that my name be unsubscribed from this list. Please do so. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: N514J Wiring
Date: Jan 03, 1999
I was looking through my RV photo collection to get an idea about how folks are plumbing the brake lines and fuel lines on a 6-A (I think I have to buy more tubing!!!) when I ran into a picture of the instrument panel for N514J taken at a Van's flyin. It shows a line of switches (master, lights and ess. bus) which is attached to a pull out tray which has the Bob N. style Bussman fuse block in it. This looks like a very neat installation. Does anyone know who owns it? I would like to talk to them about it. Ross Mickey Getting twisted in tubing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: N514J Wiring
Date: Jan 03, 1999
I searched out my own answer. This plane is owned by John Marples of St. Augustine, FL. Does anyone know the plane or person? Ross Mickey Getting twisted in tubing....still ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 /
Date: Jan 03, 1999
From: Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Scott, another possibility I might recommend is what I have done. I bought a low time IO360 removed from a Mooney by the Mod Shop in Florida. (they offer engines for sale in TAP often) I then had the engine rebuilt at Ly-CON here in Michigan using high compression helicopter pistons. By using very light accessories (electric ignition, lightweight alternator and starter, wood prop, no vacuum system and Vetterman crossover exhaust) I end up with a package with approximately 226 hp (according to Larry Vetterman who has dyno-tested this configuration). I think my total cost for this engine with accessories is about $20,000. My engine weight including prop and extension is 324 lbs. -- actually about 30 lbs. lighter than my friends IO320 and constant speed prop installation. Standard disclaimer: your mileage may vary, etc. Paul Lein, RV 6A, flying in '99!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Wow, You mean we can pull 9Gs, go 1.7mach, shoot a 20mm cannon and drop lots of bombs?!!! Sign me up! (Sorry, just jesting, but having flown both the Harmon Rocket and the F-16 I would say the Rocket is EXTREMELY impressive and fun, but not quite F-16 performance). Marcus RV-6 and having fun. >Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please call >me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com. > >Scott Brown >Florida RV-Ation > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit
In a message dated 1/3/99 2:13:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, mcooper(at)cnetech.com writes: << Wow, You mean we can pull 9Gs, go 1.7mach, shoot a 20mm cannon and drop lots of bombs?!!! Sign me up! (Sorry, just jesting, but having flown both the Harmon Rocket and the F-16 I would say the Rocket is EXTREMELY impressive and fun, but not quite F-16 performance). Marcus RV-6 and having fun. >Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please call >me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com. > >Scott Brown >Florida RV-Ation >> Hahaha, You are funny....the term came from a bunch of f16 fighter pilots that I know that flew the rocket and they said that the rocket was the closest kit build airplane to the f16 they had ever flown. Take it and run... Hope to see you in a rocket soon, Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: MT and Hoffman props
Date: Jan 03, 1999
Any clue as to why I'm getting messages that seemed to be messages from the list that are posted back to the list with no modifications or additional comments? Doug Hormann empennage -----Original Message----- From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:16 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props > > >"Steven B. Janicki" wrote: > >> >> I was recently given a 150 hr. 2 blade MT Prop. The prop has one leading >> edge debonding and one of the blade trunion bolts failed torque testing. I >> spoke to the factory in Germany and I have to send the blades back for >> inspection and repair (if possible). The leading edge repair is no problem >> and could be repaired stateside. The trunion bolt is a factory only review >> for repair/repair. >> >> So while it was a gift it will still cost a considerable amount of money to >> ship to Germany (shipping, insurance, customs.) just to determine if the >> trunion bolt torque failure can be fixed. So add the cost of the prop plus >> the costs that you may incur if you ever have to ship the blades back to the >> factory for depot level repairs. Not to mention the down time. >> >> The more I think about it the more I think this will become an expensive >> wall mount! >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: <Scremm(at)aol.com> >> To: >> Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:50 PM >> Subject: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props >> >> >> Hi listers, >> I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been here >> for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before I >> return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to >> think >> about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back >> with >> me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman >> props >> but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would >> appreciate >> any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality, >> maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or maybe >> not so useful : ) ) information. Thanks in advance. >> >> Claudio Scremin >> Scremm(at)aol.com >> RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings) >> Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover) >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: flight of two
Date: Jan 03, 1999
My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last year and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been wondering what the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR rules apply. Mostly we don't find much. The tower told us that the second plane should reply on the radio. If someone knows some of these things I would appreciate hearing from you. We have actually had the controller announce us as a flight of two when we had attempted to land separately (thinking that at the time it would make things simpler). It seems that landing is the hardest part. I assume that you should agree ahead of time on altitudes and speeds for each leg of the pattern and that the forward plane takes the inside turns of the base and final, and lands purposely long. What do you do if you take different exits? Are you still flight of two on ground freq? We're trying just to make the work load easier on the controller (and depart more quickly). Respond to me off-list please, I'm not currently subscribed. kevin RV6A N3773 (320hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location
Warren, I like your electric trim retrofit kit and although I will stay with my manual option for now I am considering later in the project fitting the electric as per your design. I do have one question. In order to install your electric conversion kit do you supply a new trim tab horn or does the trim motor recommended have a longer stroke than that used in the factory electric trim installation? I ask this since the plans indicate a somewhat shorter horn on the tab for electric trim option. I am concerned that there would be insufficient trim travel if the standard manual trim horn was to be used. Doug Gray RV-6 Flaps > > Glenn if you or any other person that reads this would like a flyer I have on > one of my products that will give you a very good elevator trim alternative. It > is both manual and electric. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com>
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: right elevator E-609
My plan for these rivets was to use a "no-hole" squeezer yoke from Avery, as recommended by George Orndorff. It looks like there should be enough room for this squeezer, although I am interested if anyone has had any experience to the contrary. By the way, I've done just about everything I can do on my elevators and rudders until I get that yoke (the 4" version so I can squeeze the rivets on the spar as well) from Avery, it has been on back order for about three weeks. My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I don't seem to be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the E-609 rib to the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I don't have any bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing it up trying, do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here? I have a few of the right size. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: lottmc(at)datasync.com
Subject: Re: flight of two
I woulds like to see a reply to this, too. I am a little shaky on some of the "flight of two" rules. The controller usually asks the non talking plane to turn off it's transponder. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: flight of two
Kevin: Get some training. The CAF or Laison Pilots association have classes. I have been to the Laison Pilots course. Another place to get some info would be to purchase the T-34 Formation Flying book from EAA. This book is included with the Formation Flying:"The Art" video tape from Sporty's Pilot Shop. Order number M632A. About $70 US. The local CAF (Riverside, CAlifornia) have classes several times a year. > > My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last year > and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been wondering what > the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR rules > apply. ---------- snip ----------- Respond to me off-list > please, I'm not currently subscribed. kevin RV6A N3773 (320hrs) = Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell Flying in So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: flight of two
<< I woulds like to see a reply to this, too. I am a little shaky on some of the "flight of two" rules. The controller usually asks the non talking plane to turn off it's transponder. >> I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2. Never had a problem- we even shot a localizer approach as a flight! #2 should turn the TXP off, that is true. It will take some practice to follow lead thru all the necessary freq changes- simply announce the freq change to the flight, change, and check in afterwards. It is a good idea to have a freq to go to if the freq change gets messed up, to get things straightened out. #2 usually listens only. I suppose some controllers might want to hear from #2, but I have not found this to be SOP. If any Black Jack members are on the list, I'd trust their opinions. "Rosy" (Got a Problem with Pink?) Doug probably has some good input also. Check six! Mark Red Flight, #2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: gold coast race rv4 and pitts
guys, i was at sebastian / melbourne fl. this weekend and saw what appeared to be a balls to the walls race between a pitts and a rv 4 , what an awsome sight, looks like the 4 was leaving him behind around 200 mph i would quess. 200 ft above the ground, anyone knows who this might be? scott left winging it in tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: flight of two
Date: Jan 04, 1999
> >My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last year >and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been wondering what >the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR rules >apply. Mostly we don't find much. Flying formation "well" is one of the most rewarding things you can do in aviation. If you seek to do this, PLEASE get some formation training! You will not get this at the local FBO. Find a warbird type who is formation qualified by F.A.S.T. and ask them to help you or direct you to some one who can. To answer your question, when in formation the only thing that the wingman should ever say on the radio is, "two" before and after frequency changes and "lead is on fire!" To ATC you should be one airplane. #2 does not talk or squawk. I have a list of all CAF formation pilots and could provide you a contact to start your search locally if you e-mail me off-line. The EAA has the T-34 book which is the standard for low-wing formation now. Get it and read it then get some help. It won't require much time and it is really rewarding when done correctly. It is deadly when it is not. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com http://www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Subject: Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges
Date: Jan 04, 1999
> I think this is one of those cases where you don't follow the plans. > It won't hurt anything if the centerline of the hinge is 1/16" or even > 1/8" farther forward than indicated in the plans. Simply allow the > cowling to extend slightly farther aft than the centerline of the > hinge. This situation is actually preferable. The cowling will be easier to remove if the hinge centerline is slightly on the cowling side. If it is not, you have to pull the cowling slightly forward for the hinge eyelets to clear the aluminum edge. This is difficult on the top because the horizontal hinges between the two halves prevent it from going forward. Ask me how I know. Scott Sawby RV6A 341SS 110 Hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: new engine design
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I heard they were planning to flight demo the new engine at Oshkosh this July. Lycoming has a similar project underway with Detroit Deisel. I don't know what their timetable is. >From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sun Jan 3 19:36:14 1999 > by matronics.com (8.8.8/Matronics-1.2) id TAA18184 >Message-ID: <36903698.AF8FD84A(at)home.com> >Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:33:44 -0600 >From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> >X-Accept-Language: en >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: new engine design >Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >Precedence: bulk >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >Has anyone heard whether the new engine which NASA and TCM >are developing will likely be available to the RV's? I >asked Van's about it a while back and got to reply. For >those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel, >200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. It's >supposed to be on the market in 2000. I notice the dry >weight of the new engine is 300lbs. How does that compare >to a Lycoming 360? The engine sure looks pretty spiffy. It >would kind of bug me to spend 20K on a Lycoming when I could >possibly buy and maintain this new thing for less. You can >take a look at it here: >http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/WWW/AST/GAP/ . Any info would be >appreciated. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: RV-8 Airbox Solved!
For those of you building RV-8's with 0-360's, you will need to cut the neck of the fiberglass airbox itself on the sides and then use a heat gun to bend down about 1". You would then fiberglass over the cut. The top plate stays flat. Vans(at least Tom) is unaware of this, and it is not in the instructions. I contacted a builder who has this engine/AC combo, and have done it on mine. Works great. You could also make a 1" aluminum plate as a spacer between the carb and the mount plate, but this would be much more work, as well as weight. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption
Date: Jan 04, 1999
>I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2. Never had a >problem- we even shot a localizer approach as a flight! #2 should turn the TXP >Check six! >Mark >Red Flight, #2 Mark, since you have good comparble data (same distance, same altitude etc), could you give us some data of fuel consumption? What engine/ prop combination of the planes or are they EXACTLY identical? Is it true, that the fixed pitch prop is in CRUISE as efficient at the C/S prop? Many on the List sure would appreciate your data on this subject. Thanks, Lothar Lothar ||-6A||Lakewood/ Denver, CO ||skinning fuselage|| ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Donald Farrand <dotndon(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: sample of a bill of sale?
A fellow RV builder said this address might be a source of information for me with regard to a sample of the wording needed to give some assurance of a "release of liability" for me in the event of selling my RV4 airplane. Any help? Thanks. Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: flight of two or more
Have flown with my buddies as a flight of 4 for the past few years now (we're havin' way too much fun!) in our RV's. I would guess that we have flown together for over 100 hours. Here are the rules we live by: Rule 1: # 1 talks and squawks Rule 2: everybody else shut-up, listen and watch your wingman If one of the pilots in the flight needs to talk to the group for some reason we request a temporary frequency change and #1 lets the controller know when we're back. We fly in and out of the pattern as two groups of two in the "flight of four." So we take off and land in pairs. We always breif before a flight. After you learn the techniques required for formation flight you should practice formation flight often. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001)
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Finding Information
>-------------- >I am not sure how this whole thing works, but I'm trying to find help >for a "release of Liability" as I have plans to sell my RV4 and my wife >is quite concerned (as am I) as to how we assure the buyer he is buying >"as is" on an amateur build aircraft. I'm sure the subject has been >discussed and I have tried to send the request a couple different ways >on advice of friends who say "You (Matronics) are the best source". I >have "subscribed" and await response and/or direction. > >a barely literate computer rookie...Don >-------------- Hi Don, You have a couple of options to find some answers to your questions. First, I'd recommend that you use your web browser and try out the RV-List Archive Search Engine! Go to the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/search The web page will allow you to search through all of the 10 years of postings to the RV-List. On the search web page, select the RV-List Archive (there are two other Lists here - the Kolb and Zenith - and you might try searching these List Archives as well) and put in the search string "liability & sale" without the double quotes. Click on 'Begin Search'. This should return an index of about 92 previous RV-List posts that contains the above words. You then click on the indexed Subjects which will return that message for you to read. You can also modify the search words to widen or narrow the search as required. The main Search web page has detailed instuctions on how to use the Search Engine. If you can't find exactly what you're looking for using the search engine, simply send an email message to "rv-list(at)matronics.com" requesting the specific information you are looking for. Your message will be redistribued to all of the RV-List members. Good luck, Matt -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeve Clamps
Larry Pardue wrote: > --Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps? There > is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but I > can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like pliers and > vises. > Larry, sorry for the late response, but the holidays had me on the road. The > tool you'll need is aviliable from Napa Auto Parts. Its used for securing the > rubber boots on constant velocity joints. Its made by K-D Tools and is part > number 3191. Good luck. Chuck Brietigam, RV-3 flying (well, not during this > crazy winter storm!!) > --------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
Subject: sample of a bill of sale?
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I have a sample bill of sale, and a release document for passengers and guest pilots of your experimental aircraft, and maybe another form that may be helpful. I will try to find them and see if I can send them to Matt at Matronics(?), or re-create them (retype)and include them in a future message for access by you and others in the archives. Let me know if there is other interest in this subject, several good and relevant issues were discussed in a thread earlier this year about liability and revoking the airworthiness certificates on a "already-flying aircraft" that may help you out. Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 (spar mods, spar mods!) Socorro, NM 505-835-3644/5716 Rob Reece Rocket Propulsion Test Facility c/o EMRTC NM Tech Mail Station Socorro, NM 87801 (505) 835-5716 (505) 835-5299 fax > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Farrand > Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 2:13 AM > To: rvlist(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: sample of a bill of sale? > > > A fellow RV builder said this address might be a source of information > for me with regard to a sample of the wording needed to give some > assurance of a "release of liability" for me in the event of selling my > RV4 airplane. Any help? Thanks. > Don > > > --------- > > --------- > > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Tie Down Bracket (-6)
Greetings, friends, and Happy New Year. Over the holidays I got my wing spars to the point of ready to rivet, Tech Advisor gave them a clean bill of health yesterday. We did, however, puzzle some over the tie down and where the holes went. He did not remember the details of his -6 wings (now flying). Archives have nothing useful which means it must be pretty simple and I'm overlooking something, if the question hasn't been asked before. The drawings (#20) show the tie down bar attaching to the stiffener and to the spar web, with the two predrilled holes toward the web and one toward the stiffener. Specifically, the top hole seems to be in the top spar flange as well - but there is no hole right next to the one at 78 1/2 (I think) which holds the top of the stiffener. I am loath to drill another hole in the spar flange, and none of my resources indicate this is necessary (Frank's notes, Will's notes, the Bunny's guide, or even (last resort) _The Manual_). What I see in the drawing is the bottom hole into the spar web, a perpendicular hole into the stiffener, and then at the top a hole through the spar web and top spar flange. Is this correct? I also checked out web sites for pictures of this area, but no one has deemed it worthy of space. What am I missing? Thanks! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 140RV (Reserved) Wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
Subject: counterbalance arm
Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between the counterbalance arm and the elevator without repacing the U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out there? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net>
Subject: Re: flight of two
> If any Black Jack members are on the list, I'd trust their opinions. "Rosy" > (Got a Problem with Pink?) Doug probably has some good input also. > > Check six! > Mark > Red Flight, #2 I don't know if any of the other Blackjacks are lurking on the list, so I guess I'll jump in, although I'm relatively inexperienced. Lead is the pilot for the entire formation. He sqawks for the formation, navigates, communicates, the whole ball of wax. The wingman's job is to follow leads instructions, usually given with signals. The formation is handled as a single entity from start up to shut down. The Blackjacks routinely check in on all frequency changes, although we tend to avoid it on busy tower frequencies. I haven't heard a controller communicate with anyone but the lead. If a controller is trying to talk with wingmen, then I suspect that the formation isn't behaving like a formation! Gary and Doug are absolutely right to recommend competent training. The T34 Association manual is used by the Blackjacks for groundschool. It is the defacto standard. Once you get past the basic formation airmanship, IMHO the formation's communication techniques should be down solid before you enter controlled airspace. In my very limited experience, things get dangerous usually from miscommunication within the flight, not by bad basic airmanship. Discipline and attention to detail pay off. When you enter controlled airspace, your job is to make things easier and safer for everybody including the controller. While I'm typing, I'm going to get off the subject a little. I love formation flying and I encourage everybody to learn more about it. I've seen many airplanes depart Arlington in flights of two recently. It's tough to find good training outside of the warbird community and I sympathized with those who can't find mentors. If you choose to try this without training, at least think about wake turbulence and winds. Two of the four flights I saw one recent day (all non RV's) took off with the lead plane on the upwind side of the runway and his #2 about 10-14 ship lengths behind on the downwind side. That's asking to get hurt. One of lead's many jobs is to use the downwind side of the runway when taking off and landing. Mark RV-4 owner AWO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
> Recommendations for a brake, maybe 12 inches or so? ATS has small benchtop "hobbyist's" bending brakes. Not fancy but at $20-50, they're a whole lot cheaper than a "real" brake, and they do ok bends for simple stuff. ATSs number is 1-800-248-0638. Randall Henderson, RV-6 Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption
<< I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2. snip Mark, since you have good comparble data (same distance, same altitude etc), could you give us some data of fuel consumption? What engine/ prop combination of the planes or are they EXACTLY identical? Is it true, that the fixed pitch prop is in CRUISE as efficient at the C/S prop? Many on the List sure would appreciate your data on this subject. Thanks, Lothar >> Well, here goes, Lothar! I fly a Rocket (with the 540 Lyc), lead is a -6. I'd call that a mis-match! On a trip to Copperstate, Sedona, and other sightseeing stuff, My Rocket used very close to exactly the same fuel as the 150HP FP RV-6 flying lead. I even took on 1 gal less at one stop! Not what any of us had predicted or expected. I usually ran about 2000RPM and 18.5-19" MP. Of course, at stops, lead could buy MOGAS, where I was restricted to 100LL. The trip to the Bahamas was different- we were in the -4 (160 HP, FP), lead was the same ship (-6), but before his overhaul. I usually burned a bit more than lead with that ship. Again, not what we expected. Lead is buying an Aymar-Demuth prop, so this might shake things up a bit. He'll be able to run the power up a bit more, as those props are a bit more efficient than the current unit being used. More info is on the horizon! Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: RV-6A shoulder harness cable question
> OK, I give up. Where on the plans does it call out the means of attaching > the steel cable to the shoulder harness bracket back there in the tail cone? > I would expect to use a Clevis bolt in an application like that. The kit > came with four AN 23-11's but they look like they are supposed to go in the > rudder cable shackles up front at the rudder pedals. Do I use an AN bolt? > If so, it has to be a drilled bolt, right? I can't give you a definite answer but I haven't seen any other responses to this so I'll try.... I remember looking for this and not finding it either. There was a bag of "seat belt hardware" that had the bolts in it, which included other bolts, but after attaching all the other seat belt hardware it became obvious via the process of elimination. I assume you don't still have the bolts in the bags but if you still have the bag call-out you can see which bolts were supposed to be in that bag. I'm pretty sure they were standard hex head bolts, drilled for a castle nut. Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B&S Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I used a band saw to cut it down to about 5/8 and then a file to clean it up. The shim is needed because the standard cowl is thicker than the skin and firewall combo. The new S type cowl doesn't use the shim. I think that you need to cut it if you need it. Brian Eckstein 6A seat bottom skins ---------- > > > Hi, > > RE: RV-6 Cowling mount hinges > REF: DWG 31, Sec E-E > > The plans list a dimension of 11/16" from the front of the firewall to > the centerline of the hinges. The supplied hinge I have here has a > edge to hinge center distance of 3/4". What is the easiest way to trim > 1/16" off of the hinge accurately. > > Also, the hinge mounts on a .032" x 1/2" shim strip. Is this supplied > with the kit? > > -Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Instrument Cutouts
> Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly > cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel? Also, the punch > I see in avery's only cuts 2 1/4 or 3 1/8 and some of my guages (ie: fuel > guages from Van's) are 2 1/16, not a standard size. I used a fly cutter. Worked fine, just make sure the bit is sharp, and orient it so the beveled edge is on the inside of course. From what I have heard the punch can deform the metal, but I don't know this from experience. I do strongly recommend getting a hole template for the screw holes. Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Valve
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Don't ignore the flow arrows. The bottom fittings are check valves. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 1999 7:31 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve Questions: 1) Can one ignore the "Flow" arrow on the valve? There is no flow in this application. 2) It seems as though lever parallel to short face is OFF (can blow thru valve) and rotation of 45 degrees or more to either side is ON (brake pressure maintained) -- is this true? Dennis Persyk finishing kit Hampshire, IL >----- Original Message ----- >From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> >To: Jim Cimino ; >Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 12:46 PM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve > > >On 30 Dec 98, at 13:45, Jim Cimino wrote: > >> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not >> have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best >> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must >> be in the pressure lines. > >I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes. Seems >to work fine. >_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ >Tim Lewis >N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested >Springfield VA >http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a >timrv6a(at)iname.com > >---------------------------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
Date: Jan 04, 1999
How much are the tips and the light kit? ----- Original Message ----- From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:04 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847. ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is 805-933-8225 tracy saylor Dane Sheahen wrote: > > Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing > Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly > appreciated > > Dane RV8a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
> ATS has small benchtop "hobbyist's" bending brakes. Not fancy but > at $20-50, they're a whole lot cheaper than a "real" brake, and > they do ok bends for simple stuff. > > ATSs number is 1-800-248-0638. I wanted to add to the above post: this brake is NOT the same as the one Spruce sells. The Spruce one is made from aluminum and IMHO is not worth much. The ATS one is steel. Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Connection
In a message dated 1/3/99 7:31:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, c_gray(at)bellsouth.net writes: << I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III -- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >> Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane. Just something to think about, maybe. Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Subject: Re: new engine design
In a message dated 1/3/99 7:52:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, adrianchick(at)home.com writes: << For those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel, 200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. >> There is also a company called Deltahawk that is currently testing a diesel engine in the same HP range, with a detuned version planned for those who do not want that many ponies. I believe that the engine that they are now testing is being considered a source of power for Velocity aircraft. They are also planning an engine with a different profile that would be more suitable to an RV. I believe that www.deltahawk.com will take you there. Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: new engine design
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Try http://www.deltahawkengines.com/oshkosh1.html instead. . I believe that www.deltahawk.com will take you there. >Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Our observation in many hours of flying RV's side by side for long distances (seven trips from Fort Worth to Van's Homecoming has been as follows: A RV6 flown at a given speed will burn about the same amount of fuel regardless of engine size or prop type. The only exception is a 150HP 0-320. Due to it's lower compression ratio it's fuel burn wil be slightly higher. We were amazed to discover that a 0-360 will burn the same as a 0-320. Constant speed prop seems to make no measurable difference either. I guess it takes a given amount of energy to move an RV at a certain speed. Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM 1,300hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Cell phone use in aircraft
This was Monday's AVweb news concerning cell phone use in aircraft. This is to enhance recent questions on the topic that appeared on the list. FCC APROVES CELL PHONE SYSTEM FOR AIRCRAFT USE... Last week's decision by the FCC allowing airborne cellular phone use depends on a system developed by wireless phone carrier AirCell Inc. of Louisville, Colo. The FCC previously banned cellular phones on airplanes, citing interference issues. Instead, the AirCell system claims to circumvent the interference issue by hiding the air-to-ground signal from conventional ground-based cell sites. ...BUT CONTINUES BAN ON CONVENTIONAL CELL PHONES Sorry, but you still wont be able to use the new cell phone you received for Christmas while flying. Checking the specifics at AirCell's Web site <http://www.aircell.com> reveals that the FCC-approved system will only work with ground sites equipped with the company's specialized antennas and with phones manufactured and distributed by AirCell. Further, the system requires two phones, one for use when the aircraft is on the ground and one for use when the aircraft is airborne above 5,000 feet AGL. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Tie Down Bracket (-6)
MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > > > Greetings, friends, and Happy New Year. > > Over the holidays I got my wing spars to the point of ready to rivet, Tech > Advisor gave them a clean bill of health yesterday. > > We did, however, puzzle some over the tie down and where the holes went. > He did not remember the details of his -6 wings (now flying). > > Archives have nothing useful which means it must be pretty simple and > I'm overlooking something, if the question hasn't been asked before. > > The drawings (#20) show the tie down bar attaching to the stiffener and > to the spar web, with the two predrilled holes toward the web and one toward > the stiffener. Specifically, the top hole seems to be in the top spar > flange as well - but there is no hole right next to the one at 78 1/2 > (I think) which holds the top of the stiffener. I am loath to drill > another hole in the spar flange, and none of my resources indicate this > is necessary (Frank's notes, Will's notes, the Bunny's guide, or even > (last resort) _The Manual_). > > What I see in the drawing is the bottom hole into the spar web, a > perpendicular hole into the stiffener, and then at the top a hole > through the spar web and top spar flange. Is this correct? > > I also checked out web sites for pictures of this area, but no one > has deemed it worthy of space. What am I missing? > Thanks! > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 140RV (Reserved) > Wing spars > Mike, You are seeing the picture correctly. You have learned your lessons well on the Emp.. You may feel like a "loath" asking questions about things that appear obvious, but it is acutally called "smart building". The hole in the top of the bracket must be drilled through the spar flanges. The thing to watch out for when drilling the bracket is the hole that attaches the bracket to the angle. If it's too low, the bolt head will be too close to the bend in the angle and the bolt head will have to be ground. Good luck on the building the spar. I used the Avery C-frame and a 3 lb. short handle sledge and it was a piece of cake. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: counterbalance arm
Adrian Chick wrote: > > > Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between > the counterbalance arm and the elevator without repacing the > U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out > there? > Adrian, I looked in the plans/manual for the dimension between the U-shapped cover and the elevator and didn't find it. I'm waiting to fit the elevator/stabilizer later. If the widest gap is not too great, I would trim the U-shapped cover to make the gap even for it's entire length. You may be able to also trim the elevator too if rivet edge-distance is not comprimised. Triming both would help trick the eye to make it look straighter. Anybody know what the gap dimension is supposed to be?? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A shoulder harness cable question
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Randall is correct, the bolts were in a bag that came with the fuselage kit. Bag is identified as part of seat belts. Don Mack RV-6A Fuselage (Finishing kit in basement) Ercoupe 415-D N2051H donmack(at)flash.net http://www.flash.net/~donmack updated 01/03/99 > > I can't give you a definite answer but I haven't seen any other > responses to this so I'll try.... I remember looking for this and not > finding it either. There was a bag of "seat belt hardware" that had the > bolts in it, which included other bolts, but after attaching all the > other seat belt hardware it became obvious via the process of > elimination. I assume you don't still have the bolts in the bags but if > you still have the bag call-out you can see which bolts were supposed to > be in that bag. I'm pretty sure they were standard hex head bolts, > drilled for a castle nut. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges
Glenn, my fuse kit is about a year old now. The shim stock is supplied and is 1/2" wide. I suppose if you trim the hinge material down, then you will also have to trim this 1/2" stock down too. Tom -6 finishing kit. -----Original Message----- From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 6:26 PM Subject: RV-List: rv-6 Cowling Hinges > >Hi, > >RE: RV-6 Cowling mount hinges >REF: DWG 31, Sec E-E > >The plans list a dimension of 11/16" from the front of the firewall to >the centerline of the hinges. The supplied hinge I have here has a >edge to hinge center distance of 3/4". What is the easiest way to trim >1/16" off of the hinge accurately. > >Also, the hinge mounts on a .032" x 1/2" shim strip. Is this supplied >with the kit? > >-Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery
>>My electrical guru does not approve of using the aircraft >>as ground. When you think about it, it does not make >>much sense what we are doing. On one hand, we are using >>zinc epoxy chromate to prevent an electrical connection between >>two different metal parts - galvanic corrosion is simply electrical flow >>between two parts one being sacrificed to the other, and, then on the other >>hand, we want to induce a high flow of electrical flow particularily during >>start up to go thru a large portion of your airframe from firewall to >>tailcone. >> >>We can get away with it for a while without noticeable damage, >>but what will it look like down the road? Are we willing to >>take chances with our labours of love? Production aircraft have been using airframe grounds since the first batteries, starters and generators were bolted on. . . even today, airplanes like the Lear, Beechjet and Hawker use airframe ground for LOTS of stuff . . . some of it VERY heavy current. A few years ago, there was a story circulating around about the hazards of airframe grounds that cited empanages falling off off Pipers due to electrically induced corrosion. Never could identify the source or deduce any explanation based on the physics of the matter. There ARE cautions about heavy current grounds . . . you don't want to carry cranking currents in thin sheet metal used for a battery ground . . . but the hazard is local and limited to the undersized material. Single point grounding behind the panel is equally important to control noise and the potential for degraded instrument performance. It's also important NOT to use the engine mount for any electrical duties . . . ground the crankcase to the firewall with a nice flexible bond strap. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: alternator/regulator wiring
>I have recently started having an electrical problem - within a few >(5-15) seconds after turning alternator switch on, the voltage slowly >rises to 16+ volts (at which point I turn alternator switch off to avoid >frying battery & avionics). I would just conclude the regulator has >gone bad, but I first noticed this after I had repaired (perhaps >incorectly?) a broken ground wire on the regulator. The regulator has >five wires, rather than the three I expected: Red->alternator switch on >panel, Green->"F" terminal on alternator, Yellow->"N" terminal on >alternator, Orange->taped off/no connection, Black->ground(this is the >wire I (re?)attached to ground when I found it broken). Voltage >regulator is labeled "TRANSPO F7078". >Anyone familiar with this regulator & know if it is wired correctly? Runaway voltage, particularly the creepy kind you describe is invariably the voltage regulator. The broken wire may have toasted its innards in some way. I'd replace it. You might consider an automotive aftermarket replacment for a 1980s Ford regulator. Standard Autoparts p/n VR166 is one good choice. It's all solid state and sells for $10 to $15 in auto parts stores. However, this, like ANY regulator should be teamed with overvoltage protection . . . if you don't have ov protection, you were very lucky to have noticed the failure before it lunched your electo-goodies. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Somewhere on my web page, probably in the elevators section, there is a picture of my elevator horn, with all the holes drilled and the measurements marked right on them, clear enough to see. The measurements worked great for me, they left enough room to squeeze all rivets, and adhered to edge distance and spacing requirements. If you need more help, just email me. Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 Page at: http://tabshred.com/moe > >I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response, >but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator >horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere. > >Mike Robbins >RV-8Q right elevator >Issaquah, WA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360
( turbo conversion as well )
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Lycon of California quoted me on a 230HP IO-360 for 25K. They are on the internet, do a search for "Lycon". They have a great reputation. Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 Page at: http://tabshred.com/moe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com>
Subject: Sam James wheelpants
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Listers, Just got my pressure-recovery wheelpants from Sam James and fitted them tonight. I think "low riders" would be a better name for them. With the trailing edge set at the recommended 1 " above the floor, the area just behind the tire sits about " above the floor. This could be problematic with grass, uneven concrete, etc. I was wondering if anyone with these wheelpants has had problems with them scraping on the ground, or if they are being set up higher than recommended in the instructions. Bob Japundza RV-6, should be flying by April ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: Rv-8 Rudder
Date: Jan 04, 1999
Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces are at work that are specific to the -8? Vince RV-8A Starting on rudder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1999
From: Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location
Hello Doug and all who may be following this, I do not supply a different control horn. Use the one that is indicated in the plans for the manual system. This makes my system a natural for the changing of a manual system to a electric elevator trim, as well as a very easy to build and to install alternative to achive an electric trim durring the building. Just use the control horn as described in the plans for the manual system durring the building. There is plenty of travel to the trim tab with this type of installation. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 3664 E. Lake Dr. Littleton, CO 80121 303-770-3811 gretz_aero(at)h2net.net Doug Gray wrote: > > Warren, > > I like your electric trim retrofit kit and although I will stay with my > manual option for now I am considering later in the project fitting the > electric as per your design. I do have one question. > > In order to install your electric conversion kit do you supply a new > trim tab horn or does the trim motor recommended have a longer stroke > than that used in the factory electric trim installation? > > I ask this since the plans indicate a somewhat shorter horn on the tab > for electric trim option. I am concerned that there would be > insufficient trim travel if the standard manual trim horn was to be > used. > > Doug Gray > RV-6 Flaps > > > > > Glenn if you or any other person that reads this would like a flyer I have on > > one of my products that will give you a very good elevator trim alternative. It > > is both manual and electric. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
Date: Jan 04, 1999
None of the earlier RVs (-3, -4, nor -6) has a balanced rudder. The higher speed of the RV-8 requires a balanced rudder to prevent rudder flutter in its operating range. Regards, Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST STILL monkeying around with the baffles > >Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in >the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces >are at work that are specific to the -8? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery
Robert, Don't forget that the float type fuel quantity senders we use automatically have an airframe ground.. Can't get around this thru there design. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com>
Subject: No-hole yoke
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I bought the 2-1/2" deep no-hole yoke from Avery, and I like it. It does get at rivets I couldn't squeeze without it, or buck either for that matter. But it does have a surprising amount of spring to it. Squeezing 1/8" rivets, when you squeeze the handles of the squeezer together, it wants to spring back a bit when you ease up because of the energy that went into bending the yoke instead of smashing the rivet. I mention this because I see several of you are waiting for the 4" no-hole squeezer, and someone else told me they had experienced the same spring-back with their 4" yoke on 3/32" rivets, to the extend that it was not setting some rivets properly. My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work for you on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this? Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net>
Subject: Wiring runs
Date: Jan 04, 1999
This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be appreciated. Robert Kellar RV-6A fuselage "innards" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net>
Subject: Holding flap accuator rods
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them by hand while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use a rubber clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This is a small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies pressure equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many golf supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a freebie. (Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360
( turbo conversion as well )
Date: Jan 04, 1999
I found AeroSport Power to be more cost effective. Granted they don't have the high compression pistons. I waited 2 months just to get a quote from Lycon. ----- Original Message ----- From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 6:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360 ( turbo conversion as well ) Lycon of California quoted me on a 230HP IO-360 for 25K. They are on the internet, do a search for "Lycon". They have a great reputation. Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 Page at: http://tabshred.com/moe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kenny Easton"<kenny_easton(at)sehe.com>
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: year2000
Hi , Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator is year 2000 compatible Many thanks , K . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kique" <ecastil(at)arrakis.es>
Subject: Ivoprop
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Hello to all: Has anybody fitted an Ivoprop propeller in a RV6? ecastil(at)arrakis.es RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Paul Krasa <p.w.krasa(at)larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator/regulator wiring
The regulator you have is the one Mark Landol (sp?) provides with his regulator. There are two different wiring diagrams. Mine is wired as such: RED to B post, GREEN to F pin through the alternator switch, YELLOW to N pin, BLACK to grounded to alternator case, and ORANGE is not used. Contact Mark for help with this regulator. A replacement from him is $18 including shipping. Paul At 18:57 1/4/99, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >>I have recently started having an electrical problem - within a few >>(5-15) seconds after turning alternator switch on, the voltage slowly >>rises to 16+ volts (at which point I turn alternator switch off to avoid >>frying battery & avionics). I would just conclude the regulator has >>gone bad, but I first noticed this after I had repaired (perhaps >>incorectly?) a broken ground wire on the regulator. The regulator has >>five wires, rather than the three I expected: Red->alternator switch on >>panel, Green->"F" terminal on alternator, Yellow->"N" terminal on >>alternator, Orange->taped off/no connection, Black->ground(this is the >>wire I (re?)attached to ground when I found it broken). Voltage >>regulator is labeled "TRANSPO F7078". >>Anyone familiar with this regulator & know if it is wired correctly? > > Runaway voltage, particularly the creepy kind you describe > is invariably the voltage regulator. The broken wire may > have toasted its innards in some way. I'd replace it. > You might consider an automotive aftermarket replacment for > a 1980s Ford regulator. Standard Autoparts p/n VR166 is one > good choice. It's all solid state and sells for $10 to $15 > in auto parts stores. However, this, like ANY regulator > should be teamed with overvoltage protection . . . if you > don't have ov protection, you were very lucky to have noticed > the failure before it lunched your electo-goodies. > > > Bob . . . > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== > < If you continue to do > > < What you've always done > > < You will continue to be > > < What you've always been. > > ================================ > <http://www.aeroelectric.com> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com.by.dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com (8.8.4/8.8.4)
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: alternator/regulator wiring
Recommend B & C regulator , it has overvoltage protection, and the support is great from Bill Bainbridge. Also its supposed to reduce radio interference. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
> > > My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work for you > on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this? > > Terry Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it to be too springy and heavy to use much . It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building process. On the area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I built the riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the RVator'. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and file - and has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now lend it around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their project. If I were to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent my money on something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from Tatco and maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall. DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint. Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Holding flap accuator rods
Robert Kellar wrote: > I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them by hand > while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use a rubber > clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This is a > small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies pressure > equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many golf > supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a freebie. > (Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier. > Robert - Another solution is to put the rod in a metal lathe chuck and use the back drill support to hold the tap aligned while you manually tap the hole. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Connection & grounding
><< I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III > -- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >> >Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I >was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use >the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of >equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane. >Just something to think about, maybe. This is apples and oranges . . . the original poster spoke of all composite aircraft which do require independendent grounding of each device . . . ideally to a common ground. The builder who ran independent grounds in a metal airplane is certainly entitled to do so . . . for what ever reason. The problem with holding this up as good advice requires that we understand and agree with the reason. This means understanding the physics of the matter. I'd be pleased to see some published works on his rationale for the extra time, cost and weight of the design. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Sam James wheelpants
writes: << Just got my pressure-recovery wheelpants from Sam James and fitted them tonight. I think "low riders" would be a better name for them. With the trailing edge set at the recommended 1 " above the floor, the area just behind the tire sits about " above the floor. This could be problematic with grass, uneven concrete, etc. I was wondering if anyone with these wheelpants has had problems with them scraping on the ground, or if they are being set up higher than recommended in the instructions. Bob Japundza RV-6, should be flying by April >> Bob: It's your ship, and you will have to fix it. After installing my share of these pants, I finally wised up, and raised 'em so a 1" thick chock would fit under the aft side with the ship loaded, and the tire press a tad on the low side ( as might be the case at a fuel stop during an X-CY flight to, say, OSH). It just makes life a bit easier, IMHO. Don't forget to put the bulkhead in, per Sam's instructions. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: POP-RIVETER
Listers; Another tool I would like to recommend especially for those of you just starting is an air-powered pop riveter. I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools @ $59.00 a year ago (they may be more now) and have used it alot. I find I get a better rivet set with these, without the 'bounce back' of a hand pop riveter, not to mention much faster and easier on your hands and wrists. I had no idea there were so many pop rivets in this airplane! Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Holding flap accuator rods
Or you can use plain ole' 3" seaming pliers with duct tape on the jaws; fast, works great and doesn't scratch the tubing up. Remember when you are tapping these to just go in a couple of turns, them back out. This gets rid of the cuttings; it will just jam up otherwise. Also use oil while cutting. I just used plain household oil; cutting oil is better. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com writes: > > > >Robert Kellar wrote: > >> I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them >by hand >> while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use >a rubber >> clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This >is a >> small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies >pressure >> equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many >golf >> supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a >freebie. >> (Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier. >> > >Robert - Another solution is to put the rod in a metal lathe chuck and >use the >back drill support to hold the tap aligned while you manually tap the >hole. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: RTV DISPENSER
We have all seen the 'finger smear' jobs of applying RTV sealant around the baffles, firewall seals, etc. I would like to recommend a product I found from A/C Spruce and Specialty, page 50 of the catalog. These are industrial syringes and have proven to be invaluable during my project. Since they have no rubber seals on the inside, you just leave the remaining sealant in the syringe, let it dry, then pull out the plug and use it over. In fact, I used one syringe for my entire project. This includes dispensing epoxy, fiberglass, RTV, glues, etc. The best part is the price; one for $1.00, or six for $1.00 (uuuuuuuuh, lets see, I'll have to think about that one.......:) Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Stewart Warner senders
Date: Jan 05, 1999
I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks. I wanted to install and seal the tanks to get the job all finished with. I did not buy the Isspro gauges because my last ones would stick and always needed a rap to move off full. My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in that they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33. Besides, most gauges want their own senders just to control the market. There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would they senders be considered more or less generic ? I would REALLY like some feedback from any of you out there that know about this stuff. Thanks a bunch, Lyle. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Wire terminals
>A builder recently opined: >In my humble opinion and experience, everything >at Radio Shack is of the lowest possible quality. > Actually, you can buy a broad range of product capabilities at Radio Shack, and many other stores like them. I hear that Radio Shack parts went to Mars on the last lander mission. The trick is to understand what you want the parts to do and which ones are suited to the task. To put a wet blanket (or a warm one for that matter) on any single supplier's hardware may not be very useful in terms of offering advice. Some parts at R-S are indeed low cost and not very sturdy, but many others are from the same name-brand suppliers such as National, Motorola, AMP, Molex, etc. as the upscale suppliers. If we design our airplanes for failure tolerance, then absolute quality is less an issue . . . one may try a component in any location and upgrade it if its maintenance history is unsatisfactory. The process can be more comforting if we educate ourselves with respect to what's needed and compare it with what's offered . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net>
Subject: Read this if you have a new Lycoming!
Date: Jan 05, 1999
New Lycoming engines used with a fixed pitch prop can result in a forced landing or worse if you do not read the fine print! In August a friend of mine suffered severe injuries and his new RV6 was destroyed in an off-airport emergency landing after oil covered the canopy. What happened? My friend installed a new 0-360 in his RV6 together with a fixed pitch prop. He followed the instructions (or so he thought) provided by Lycoming. Basically they state: IF INSTALLING A CONSTANT SPEED PROPELLER, REMOVE THE FRONT CRANKSHAFT EXPANSION PLUG. IF A FIXED PITCH PROP IS USED, THIS PLUG MUST REMAIN IN PLACE. At the bottom of the page is a note reading: IF THE ENGINE IS TO BE CONVERTED FROM FIXED PITCH TO CONSTANT SPEED, OR FROM CONSTANT SPEED TO FIXED PITCH, REFER TO SERVICE INSTRUCTION #1435. This document is enclosed in the back of the instructions. My friend and as it turns out many others, simply bolted the prop to the engine as it came out of the crate. Bad move! What service instructions #1435 say is that YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT PLUG, PUNCTURE OR REMOVE THE REAR PLUG AND RE-INSTALL A NEW FRONT PLUG TO PREVENT OIL PRESSURE BUILD UP BEHIND THE FRONT PLUG. Failure to do so may result in an oil leak past the front plug. This leakage can be sudden and significant as in my friends case. While my friend only had 72 hrs on his engine, an other local RV6 experienced the same mishap afterover 200hrs. Not being aware of the reason for his problem he simply replaced the front plug only to have a major in-flight leak occur again a few hours later. Both occurances resulted in forced landings thankfully with no damage. A check with the salvage center in posession of my friend's wreckage revealed that his was the third homebuit they recieved for this reason. The local air salvage firm has two! In summary: If you have a hollow crankshaft engine and are running a fixed pitch prop make sure the provisions of service instructions #1435 have been complied with. Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM 1,300 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
Date: Jan 05, 1999
----Original Message Follows---- From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> Subject: RV-List: Stewart Warner senders Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 08:27:33 -0800 My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? I believe the Electonics International gauges are compatible. I'm planning to use them in my -8. Sylvain RV-8, Right Wing Skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Sam James wheelpants
Bob I have used Sams wheel pants for about 4 yrs 1400ft grass strip with no problems TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
> >My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? > Thanks a bunch, > >Lyle. Lyle, Autometer makes various styles of fuel quantity gauges that use 33 full/240 empty senders. See them at www.autometer.com. Summit racing equipment carries most of the Autometer line at discount prices. I plan on using Autometers in my RV (though I havent gotten them yet) because Ive had real good luck with them in various hot rods. Mike Wills RV-4 fuse out of the jig! willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Type "S" cowl
The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are much thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the thinner material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in anyone's experience, especially from those of you who have done both types. Any suggestions? Also, I'm interested in any discussion between piano hinge or cam locks or DZUS fastners or machine screws for the top to bottom horizontal mating of the cowls. I lean towards the hinges because that's what I'm used to and they're a lot cheaper. We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl to top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8 screws & nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the thin material, I'm not sure how that would work out. I hate to lay up additional layers of fiberglass on the inside of the cowl to allow enough thickness to machine countersink for the #6 screws. Charlie paid big bucks for a light cowl and I don't want to start adding weight to his plane (although, if I did add weight, maybe I'd be able to keep up with him:) Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Constant speed.
Fellow RVers, We're going to install a Hartzell HC-C2YL-1BF/F7663A4 constant speed prop purchased from Van's on Charlie's 160 hp D1A in his RV6A. We have the type "S" constant speed cowl. To keep the purchase of the prop as far down the road as possible, I'd like to install the cowl using the rear spinner bulkhead. I intend to make some tubing spacers for the 7/16" prop bolts to space the rear spinner bulkhead at the location it will be when the constant speed is installed. Can anyone tell me the distance from the front face of the ring gear/pulley to the aft face of the constant speed rear spinner bulkhead? Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
>There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would they >senders be considered more or less generic ? >Lyle. Lyle, The JPI fuel gauges will work fine with the S-W senders. They're a bit pricey but I like the looks of the digital gauges. The guy I'm helping with a 6A used all JPI instruments and his panel is one of the nicest that I've seen. One advantage of the JPI is that you send them the ohm readings for full and empty and they calibrate each individual gauge. Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
<< My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? >> Mr Buster: I use Autometer "Z series" gages. I have only one fuel level gage, with a L-R switch. I figure that if I'm smart enough to switch tanks, I can throw the switch,too. Autometer #2622 (as I recall) is the one you want. Autometer has a full line of mech gages, too (OP, OT, FP). I purchase thru Summit, or Jeg's. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Constant speed.
Date: Jan 05, 1999
I don't think that is a good idea using tall spacers of tubing as the tubes and the bolts might rack or bend. Since there is torsional resonance, the bolts are likely to break. I would feel better if you used a solid spacer the thickness you need to space out the bulkhead. The fastening of any prop is critical an your life depends on it. The actual drive of your prop is by friction between the prop hub and the crank flange and the tubing doesn't give you much friction area. The Drive lugs are a misnomer. Friction is the thing that drives the prop. With improperly tightened bolts, the drive lugs quickly shear. On the other hand if this is just a lashup to fit the spinner and cowl, forge ahead. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 2:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Constant speed. > >Fellow RVers, > > We're going to install a Hartzell HC-C2YL-1BF/F7663A4 constant speed prop >purchased from Van's on Charlie's 160 hp D1A in his RV6A. We have the type >"S" constant speed cowl. > To keep the purchase of the prop as far down the road as possible, I'd >like to install the cowl using the rear spinner bulkhead. I intend to make >some tubing spacers for the 7/16" prop bolts to space the rear spinner >bulkhead at the location it will be when the constant speed is installed. >Can anyone tell me the distance from the front face of the ring gear/pulley >to the aft face of the constant speed rear spinner bulkhead? > Thanks, > >Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed very little compared to the Tatco. Reconsidering, Larry RV-8 trim tab larry(at)bowen.com http://larry.bowen.com ---"Douglas G. Murray" wrote: > > > > > > > > > My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work for you > > on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this? > > > > Terry > > Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it to be too > springy and heavy to use much . > It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building process. On the > area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I built the > riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the RVator'. It took > me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and file - and > has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now lend it > around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their project. If I were > to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent my money on > something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from Tatco and > maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall. > > DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint. > Southern Alberta > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Bob, I have the battery installed behind the passenger seat (RV4). I have #2 cable from master. relay (mounted at batt) routed through protected path up to firewall where it connects to the starter relay on the back side of the firewall (also branches to panel tree). I then have #2 cable connecting batt GND to the longeron using conductive grease with AN-3 bolt. A #2 cable then connects the longeron to a 3/8 brass bolt on the back of the firewall (GND). The brass bolt is secured through the firewall providing ground access to the panel and the engine on either side. A #2 cable connects the brass ground bolt to the engine block directly. All systems use direct ground wiring (in most cases routed parallel to supply wire). The only exception, which could be easily fixed is my strobe supply which I grounded to the airframe. Is this risky and what problems should I be concerned about? Thanks, Mike Wilson RV4 -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com] Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 11:21 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
Date: Jan 05, 1999
I have the 4" no-hole Avery yoke and love it. I use it for all my flush-head riveting along edges. Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST 90% done, 50% left to go > >Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BChat64832(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: availability of RV8 fuselage jig
The jig is located in Gilbert,South Carolina (outside of Columbia),and is free. If interested,contact: Ray Chaplin 803-892-3011 Bob Chatham RV6A fuselage bchat64832aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
> >Does anyone have the particulars on an in-flight fire in someone's (Vern >Dahlman's?) Rocket on New Year's Day? We have been discussing this over coffee every morning for the last couple of days. Seems some of the guys know Vern. Today I was told (second hand) that the fire was caused by a fuel leak in the fuel plumbing in or around the fuel selector under the floorboard near the pilot's legs. He evidently made a successful landing but bounced and stalled, damaging the airplane. (I can't understand why he would make a bad landing with a fire between his legs but there it is.) The rear seat passenger was treated and released. Vern is still in the hospital in "serious" condition (upgraded from "critical") and that they are keeping him sedated while much of the immediate healing takes place. Evidently one of the locals BS'ed his way in to see Vern and was sorry that he did. I gather Vern is rather a fright to see. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Connection & grounding
> >Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I > >was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use > >the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of > >equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane. > >Just something to think about, maybe. I'm afraid that's a croc.... er... a bit of an exaggeration. It sounded suspicious to me so I went home last night and weighed some of my wire. #20 comes out to just over 0.09oz per ft. At that weight it would take about 2488 feet (!) to get 14 Lbs. Ok say you're into overkill and want to use #12 for everything (hey, who am I to argue?) That weighs about 0.3oz/ft, so it would still take 750' of it to make 14 lbs. A more likely amount of wire would be 300' (van's wiring kit has 268' of wire in various sizes), which would be about 3lbs, total. I'm not necessarily advocating running separate grounds, just wanted to clarify the weight issue. Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Fellow Listers: I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold: go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport. I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my head but I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his engines. He really, really knows his stuff. Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division of Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops) obtains cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just as the customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts are drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to their certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH units for the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar or Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel pump, etc, etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted with PPG poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not compromise on quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled components that he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland Height have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have been no problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are properly run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take delivery. Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and the central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is only as good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per month and he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of standards. Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a 0-360). If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list. Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Avery No Hole Yoke
I use the Avery 4" no hole yoke. It does flex a bit when I use AN5 rivets but not too much when I use AN4s and AN3s. I think most of the tight tollerance rivets I have had to use this on have been AN3 though and it does get to these very well. You may want to consider the 4" if you haven't done the tail yet because it has the reach to get to the Rudder flange (on a 6 at least) whereas I know a 2" yoke won't work but maybe a 3" will work. Also, this yoke make a great bucking bar too especially for those rivets on the inside canopy rails. Gary "Tex" Fesenbek Dallas, TX RV6A, engine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 05, 1999
That's why I ordered my engine from him! ----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 1:54 PM Subject: RV-List: Aero Sport Power Fellow Listers: I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold: go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport. I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my head but I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his engines. He really, really knows his stuff. Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division of Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops) obtains cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just as the customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts are drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to their certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH units for the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar or Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel pump, etc, etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted with PPG poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not compromise on quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled components that he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland Height have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have been no problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are properly run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take delivery. Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and the central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is only as good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per month and he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of standards. Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a 0-360). If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list. Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
News-Software: UReply 3.1 In a previous message, it was written: > >Today I was told (second hand) that the fire was caused by a fuel leak in >the fuel plumbing in or around the fuel selector under the floorboard near >the pilot's legs. He evidently made a successful landing but bounced and >stalled, damaging the airplane. (I can't understand why he would make a bad >landing with a fire between his legs but there it is.) Jeez, can't imagine either why his attention wandered on that landing :\ Kudos to the man for coolness "under fire", as it were, and getting the bird down in one piece. Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through relay- switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck so I don't think there's a reliability problem. This would also solve Mark's (Check Six!) problem of two-step fuel switching (double-throw, double-gang switch, tanks and gauge). Of course there is this: Which is worse, a fire you can see or a fire you can't? Wonder what ignited the fuel? Winter... metal airplane moving through dry air... static electricity? How much are static discharge wicks? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 140RV (Reserved) Wing spars ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com
Date: Jan 06, 1999
Subject: Re: year2000
You do mean 28/8/99 compatible don't you? The GPS satalite clock rolls over on that date back to zero. Check Megellans web site or the coast guard (I dont currently have web access). ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RV-List: year2000 Date: 05-01-99 11:18 Hi , Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator is year 2000 compatible Many thanks , K . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 05, 1999
I second this notion, as previously discussed. Mine is not flying yet, but the engine sure is pretty.. You can see it at: http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er/engine.htm Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 05, 1999
I had a similar experience with Bart LeLonde, and I concur with your conclusions. I received an o-360 from Aero Sport about month ago, and I am very satisfied with the engine and my dealings with Bart and the staff at Aero Sport. Kevin Beaton beatonk(at)usaa.com -----Original Message----- From: Doug Weiler [SMTP:dougweil(at)pressenter.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 3:54 PM To: RV List Subject: RV-List: Aero Sport Power Fellow Listers: I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold: to go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport. I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my head but I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his engines. He really, really knows his stuff. Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division of Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops) obtains cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just as the customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts are drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to their certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH units for the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar or Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel pump, etc, etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted with PPG poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not compromise on quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled components that he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland Height have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have been no problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are properly run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take delivery. Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and the central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is only as good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per month and he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of standards. Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a 0-360). If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list. Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Wiring runs
From: robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall)
>> ...you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place >> to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system >> tubing?... I expect the best place is a matter of opinion. I ran the static system tube along the longeron. That may be hard to do if the fuselage is already skinned and riveted. The wiring for electric flaps and elevator trim goes through the center of the main spar bulkhead and down the tunnel with elevator control rod. The trim wires continue aft through a small hole in the aft baggage compartment bulkhead. I put my headset jacks at the aft end of the arm rests. To keep the exposed wire out of the way, I ran the wires for those run under the floor in the outermost bays, up through the floor just forward of the rear spar bulkhead, followed by a 90 degree turn aft through that bulkhead, then on to the jacks. It would be possible to continue a wiring run aft behind the baggage compartment side panels. Bob Hall RV6 N976RH 1st loop today, 145 KIAS, 3 G's, piece of cake. Looking forward to the end of the test period. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding the battery
> Have been reading the Aeroelectric Connection over and over and have >really learned a lot. Got a question...Should I install my battery behind >my seat vs. on the firewall, what configuration do you recommend - battery >contactor near the battery with local grounding strap? From an electrical performance perspective, you want to minimize the length of any fat wires that hook up a starter and battery. If the battery is on the firewall (either forward or aft side) the obvious first choice is to ground the battery to single firewall ground stud that also mounts a panel equipment ground block -and- braided jumper to the crankcase. If the battery is further aft . . . say under the seat . . . then you might consider grounding the battery to local structure but the length of wire (and weight) to ground at the firewall stud is still pretty tollerable. If the battery is far aft, then structure grounding is probably better. Battery contactors ALWAYS mount as close as practical to the battery (+) terminal. For most folks, battery location is the one variable that allows weight and balance control. Unless your particular airframe and engine configuration is well quantified for weight and balance, you may want to wait until everything else is installed before deciding what size battery and where it will locate. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Go ahead, make my day . . . > < show me where I'm wrong. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 08, 1999
Subject: Fwd: garmin
listers From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com Subject: garmin Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:01:19 EST Garmin GPS and y2k Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following. Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its product development. Garmin products should continue to opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year 2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data. Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22 1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event. Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav functions after Gps week number roll over occurs. In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: billla(at)warbird.org
Subject: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
Date: Jan 07, 1999
Well, I bit the bullet and headed up to Van's Wednesday. Spent a couple of hours with Ken Scott - Ken patiently answered what were probably the same old questions in a very polite and informative way. He was able to offer a wealth of practical experience on RVs. As I posted on the list before, I'll need to get started in my apartment. I set up a 3 x 8 table and inventoried everything. Man, that was too easy. The one time I found myself wondering what the heck something was, there was a sheet of paper in the bag on how to tell the plates apart! Just incredible. I'm assuming that folks don't keep the bags together, since they're not referenced in the instructions, but label the components and put 'em in a set of drawers. I sorted out the components for the rear spars for both the HS and the VS. Those new powdercoated brackets were nice! I'm basically going to tackle everything that can be done with a drill and squeezer. I can head out to my (open) hangar and drag my compressor from storage when I *must* use a rivet gun. A couple of questions for the list: *Any good aerosol can-type primers? I see that Aircraft Spruce sells Zinc Chromate/Oxide primers "in a can" - any comments on the viability of these? I hate the thought of painting all this stuff with a gun, but if I have to, I will. *Anyone want the big 3-view of an RV-8*A* from the plans? I'm not going to need mine and I can sure drop it in the mail for someone if they want it. I'm looking forward to sharing my triumphs and failures with the list. Hope to see you at KOSH '00 in my new RV! Thanks! Bill Lattimer N558RV "Fanatimus" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com>
Subject: Gear Weldment
A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59 indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is; do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare Thanks, Marty Sailer Near Doylestown Pa. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Capsteve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: Re: counterbalance arm
Date: Jan 08, 1999
Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between the counterbalance arm and the elevator without replacing the U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out there Seems to me that you could very easily fabricate an .016" cover over counterbalance horn to square off looks. since skin overlaps the horn already simply butt to skin. careful not to overhang too far. I would almost consider structural epoxy to attach. my .02$ Steve DiNieri ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 07, 1999
Subject: Re: Anti-Chafe Tape
George, Where can I get the slushing paint you use in your RTV6 wing tank construciton? Or should I even use it? Thanks Rollie RV6A Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: RE: Electric cable installation Tail, battery
>Yes, sure I've been aware engines usually are rubber-mounted on their >mounts, and of course ground straps between engine block and mount have >always been common practice. > >What I've been wondering about, however, was the remark that, as I >understood it, the actual structure of the mount itself should never be used >as ground lead. Is that true, or is it just a matter of not defining things >precisely enough? The advise against using engine mounts for ground paths is based on several relatively minor points. First, the mount is generally tubular steel, not nearly the quality of conductor that a copper ground strap. There are a myriad of joints and attaching hardware involved in the grounding path each of which contributes a small amount of resistance in the milliohm or sub milliohm level. Engine mounts attach to the airframe in generally 4 or more places which causes currents from the mount to flow across the firewall sheet from a variety of directions. Fasteners designed for adequate mechanical performance may or may not be good also for electrical performance . . . given that having an engine fall off is more stressful than having poor electrical system performance, efforts to optimize mechanical integrity tend to prevail. Any one of these considerations by itself is relatively minor but if anyone has read my articles on grounding will know that the sum total of these effects can add up to significant performance losses and/or noises. The obvious solution is let the engine mount hold the engine on and let a ground strap carry the electrons to and from a single ground point on the firewall. BOTH may be optimized for their respective tasks without compromising the other. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 07, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Which constant speed props fit O360??
Hi all, I thought I might save a few bucks with a rebuilt CS prop. A prop shop I called promptly advised me that I could get a new prop from Van's for about the cost a rebuilt one as the demand for that particular prop is very high. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1999
From: Bill Pace <wbpace(at)adnc.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Connection
> >The spade fuses are nice, indeed. I do like a visible indication of what >popped though, and as a result my instruments are all on CBs and >switch/CBs, but all my radios are hooked to a single spade fuse block. >This did complicate things quite a bit however, especially since it meant >having mutliple busses, so I'm not sure I would recommend that others do >it that way. I'm not an Electrical Engineer, but I would think that you could wire an LED to each circuit so that it would illuminate in the cockpit when a fuse blows. A small strip of LEDs wired in such a manner would take almost no panel space and still indicate which curcuit was cut out. ----- Bill Pace San Diego, CA wbpace(at)adnc.com RV-6A Skinning left wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6aJMW(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 07, 1999
Subject: Re: new engine design
IT NEEDS 2200 RPM'S.THAT IS A GREAT RPM FOR AN RV.I MIGHT BE THINKING ABOUT PUTTING ONE IN MY RV6A WHEN IT IS READY FOR AN ENGNIE. JUSTIN/DON RV6A-(TAIL SECTION) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com>
Subject: Re: Type "S" cowl
Date: Jan 06, 1999
I elected to use flush #6 screws on my RV-6 with the Type S cowl and I think it worked out great without adding any extra fiberglass. I probably put too many screws in, should have looked at the spacing on some other airplanes first but I guess too many is better than not enough. I opted for the screws vs Dzus fastners partly due to cost and level of effort, but I was also a little worried about being able to get the cowling off toward the front if the cowl doesn't spread far enough for the extra clearance of an essentially non-removable stud. I suspect I was too conservative but it's a thought - the DZUS fastners would look great and make the cowling a LOT easier to remove. Marcus RV-6 > We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl to >top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8 screws & >nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the thin >material, I'm not sure how that would work out. I hate to lay up additional >layers of fiberglass on the inside of the cowl to allow enough thickness to >machine countersink for the #6 screws. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
Date: Jan 06, 1999
What's different about the Rocket wingtips? Doug Hormann > >The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847. >ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is >805-933-8225 > >tracy saylor > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: new engine design
Date: Jan 06, 1999
While it sure would be fun to pull up to the Jet-A pump in my RV, I'm skeptical about the engine being available for half the price. Most of the alternate engines I've heard about have been projected to be about the same as a regular engine. Still the savings in fuel costs could be significant. Renault is also working on a horizontally opposed line of diesels and their's are already flying in Socata. Doug Hormann empennage -----Original Message----- From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 7:44 PM Subject: RV-List: new engine design > >Has anyone heard whether the new engine which NASA and TCM >are developing will likely be available to the RV's? I >asked Van's about it a while back and got to reply. For >those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel, >200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. It's >supposed to be on the market in 2000. I notice the dry >weight of the new engine is 300lbs. How does that compare >to a Lycoming 360? The engine sure looks pretty spiffy. It >would kind of bug me to spend 20K on a Lycoming when I could >possibly buy and maintain this new thing for less. You can >take a look at it here: >http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/WWW/AST/GAP/ . Any info would be >appreciated. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com>
Subject: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation
I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for heat and noise. Recently at work I recieved some promo material from 3M that included information on thier Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation that is being used by some car manufaturers to dampen noise and thermally insulate areas like doors. This is the same stuff that they have been selling for years to insulate coats and sleeping bags. They describe it as a resin-free blends of plyporylene and plyester micro fibers and claim it is especially efficient in addressing airborne noise between 630 Hz and 4,000 Hz. Performance is based on weight and not thickness and appears to be very light. Three thickness were listed: TAI2000 200 grams/sq. meter 21 mm (.8") thick TAI4000 400 grams/sq. meter 35 mm (1.4") thick TAI6000 600 grams/sq. meter 42 mm (1.7") thick I have two questions: 1. What noise frequency occures in RV type aircraft (i.e. will this stuff be effective for them)? 2. Has anyone tried this material in their airplane and what were the results? I'm trying to contact the product representative from 3M to discuss this product and to see were I could possibly buy it in smaller quantities. It may be possible to use the Thinsulate material available at fabric stores, which I will ask. I will also try to find out any information they may have on fire resistance and gas produced when burned. Frank Smidler RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back
Online!! My condolences. I got a bunch of messages from people asking if I knew what was up with you. I guess I am now a fixture on the RV-list. : ) Pac*Bell really knows how to screw things up. I have several horror stories, all about upgrading facilities. When we moved our ISP business to a new office we planned for months ahead of time to ensure that all of the phone lines and the T1 would move smoothly. We scheduled everything so that the cutover would take 1.5 hours. They claimed to have tested everything ahead of time. We moved and had all the equipment set up and operating in 1 hour (it was a real herculean effort) and then discovered that the T1 didn't work (they blamed our equipment), some of the phone lines didn't work, the hunt group for the phone lines was lost so that only the first call got a modem; all others got a busy signal. It took 2 days to finally get things right and that occurred a 4 AM on a Sunday. I kept calling and complaining until they were sick of me. So, I also have, "been there, done that." You really, truely have my condolences. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: new engine design
Hope springs eternal... {excerpts with much deleted} > ..... the new engine which NASA and TCM are developing > ..... a two stroke diesel, 200hp, ...half the price of current engines. > ...supposed to be on the market in 2000. ... dry weight is 300lbs. I cannot believe the price will be substantially lower than current Lycomings unless the government subsidizes production too. Let's just imagine someone actually gets huge financing, builds modern automated factory etc etc and begins knocking out engines for half what Lycoming does. Will they then just fold their tent or will they "open the war chest" and chop prices to just a few thousand more. Now, would you buy an exotic new promise; a completely unproven new engine just to save two or three thousand off Lycoming's rices? If you put $50,000,000 - a small amount surely - into an engine plant and expect to make 10% on your investment, you will need to sell 1000 engines with an after tax margin of $5,000 on each! Further, this analysis assumes that the engine plant has an infinite life! As a builder you now realize that one does not set up shop and immediately be productive. The first few years will be learning experience. So, 10% isn't nearly enough for such a high risk. No investors would be attracted. The new venture will flop bigtime unless -- Lycoming or Continental can adapt their facilities and experience to build the new engines. Maybe we could talk UMA into making clones?? Whatever happened to the Renault engine?? (I used to service Dauphines and I would not trust Renault to supply my car engine!) Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
Ed asked: > Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a > relatively good drill press and band saw? My industrial engineering training in machine tools was way back when automation meant things like bar chucking machines and quick-change gearboxes! I can tell you, however, that you aren't going to find much at Sears! There are drill presses with automatic power feed and multiple spindles. You can also get vertical machining centers that load / change their own tools. I suppose most are driven by programmable computing equipment. No belts, Ed, these are all gear driven and by now probably have automatic transmissions. Many machines imported from Asia are relatively inexpensive -- under $20K DoAll used to be *THE* name for metal working bandsaws. We had one in our school shop that stood about seven feet and had a blade re-welding setup built in. It had quick change gears and a power feed table. Now, however, sheet metal is shaped with computerized equipment like Van has. Fabrics and thin wood are cut with laser blades on computerized tables. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: How to determine static system errors
Kevin, Just wanted to thank you for the GPS/TAS spreadsheet. I plugged my numbers in an get a smaller error between my IAS and CAS than previous methods I used. I believe I need to collect some more data as I do get some outliers in the data I have. I have my VSI into the instrument shop, but they have not checked it yet. So once the VSI situation is determined, I will then turn to the static ports. I did order a set of static ports from Cleveland tools. The design has an raised area 1/2 " around the port whereas my current port only has a nubben that sticks out past the skin. It appears that this raise platform is designed to remove any airflow distrubance near the port. They stated that with this design that they have not had any problems calls from RV builders. Nice, but not conclusive evidence. So, if after I get the VSI situation rectified and still get the unusual 1000 fpm down in level flight. I will probably insert the new static ports and see what they do. Again thanks for you time and interest Ed Kevin Horton wrote: > > > RV Listers, > > I have posted a guide to determining static system errors. It is available > as a link from my RV Links page, under the flight test section > <http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html>. Let me know what you think. > Is it clear and easy to understand? If not, which areas need cleaning up? > Also, please let me know if you find any errors that I missed. > > Take care, > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) > khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) > Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) > http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Return flow transducer
Their VM1000 has fuel flow info but does not mention a return flow transducer for injected applications. Here's the answer from the folks there: The single transducer is installed in such a place as the return flow is already counted and doesn't return top the tank as it is plumbed into the original feed stream. Sounds to me like the fuel gets counted once and is never in a position to need to be counted again. Guess I need to learn some more about the injected fuel systems since I would think that this would pressurize the wrong side of the return system either preventing proper return or proper metering. The VMS folks say that it works fine just like this so - back to the books for me. Thanks, Ralph Capen RV6A Emp here - getting accessories ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Wiring Supply Source
Date: Jan 06, 1999
I found a great source for wiring supplies. It is http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html This was posted by Terry Cole a few days ago but there was an error in the URL. I visited the site and found a nice shopping mall of connectors, terminals, crimpers -- all with nice photos so you see what you are getting. Warning: You can spend a lot of dough here fast! I elected the shopping cart option and ordered a whole bunch of panel wiring goodies via the secure protocol. By the way, this IS safer than giving your card to a merchant who makes paper copies of your credit card number. Try it out. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 06, 1999
Subject: garmin
Garmin GPS and y2k Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following. Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its product development. Garmin products should continue to opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year 2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data. Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22 1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event. Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav functions after Gps week number roll over occurs. In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Suthirak Sujarittanonta" <suthirak(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 06, 1999
How can I contact Bart by email? Suthirak ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: thanks - flight of two
Date: Jan 06, 1999
thanks for all the responses. I will buy the book and start studying. You are right. There's something about flying together that nothing else can match. Saturday I was flying down the Columbia River Gorge with Brian at my 10 o'clock. The setting sun lit up his canopy against the dark silhouette of Mt. Hood. Very cool. kevin -looking forward to flights of three... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring runs
Robert Kellar wrote: > > > This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place > to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system > tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a > coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best > to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is > the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be > appreciated. > > Robert Kellar > RV-6A fuselage "innards" > Robert, Another option...we ran the wiring on centerline, through an enlarged hole where the manual elevator trim might pass, along the floor, under the batt box, up behind the batt box, and on to their destinations. We are happy with the result. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A first flight in first quarter... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 06, 1999
Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise? Steve Soule RV-6A Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order. -----Original Message----- I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold: go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: AeroElectric shipping time
Readers of my web site have seen the favorable review I presented concerning "The AeroElectric Connection" book on aircraft electrical systems. This book is a valuable addition to the RV builders library of references. Based on my favorable impression of the ideas presented in the book, and after considerable research into the electrical architecture I wanted to use in my RV6, I ordered several items from The AeroElectric Connection web site on 12/10. So far, I have received none of the items. I expected to receive the various goodies I needed to begin the wiring of the panel in a couple of weeks at the most, and this was factored into my accelerated building schedule. However, the panel project has ground to a halt as I await the shipment. Is my wait of nearly a month (and still no parts) the norm when ordering from The AeroElectric Connection? In this age of web commerce and rapid shipments, this seems like a throwback to the old days when as a kid I would wait for agonizing weeks for the truck shipments to bring the latest toy from HeathKit. I am interested in hearing from a few builders who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the shipping times you encountered. If my experience is the exception, then I guess I just fell victim to a tribe of shipping gremlins; However, if this is the norm, builders need to be aware of the delays so you can plan orders accordingly. By the way, I was assured before Christmas that I would have my order pronto.... Best regards for a great new year.....there are going to be TONS of new RVs taking to the air in 99! Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 06, 1999
Subject: Systems Questions
I'm still wading through systems selection, and any input is appreciated on these questions: 1) Is there anything preventing me from using a Prestolite starter? For instance, will it fit inside the cowl? Yeah, I know its not the best starter out there, but I can pick up a brand new one for next to nothing from a friend, and honestly, I'm gonna need the weight up front. 2) I need tach suggestions from folks who are using Jeff Rose's ignition (the archives indicate that there *may* be interference with some makes/models of tach's when using dissimilar ignition sources). I want a reliable, accurate, analog, 3 1/4 inch unit. Price is definitely a consideration. 3) If you are using the Rose ignition, do you have the readout which tells what advance the system is running? Thanks, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
Date: Jan 05, 1999
>Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? >I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been >waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering >cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed >very little compared to the Tatco. > >Reconsidering, >Larry >RV-8 trim tab >larry(at)bowen.com >http://larry.bowen.com > > We have 2 hand squeezers in the prototype shop. 1 is a Tatco with a 3" yolk that gets used for general riveting. The other is an Avery with the quick change yolk pins to allow us to quickly install some of the specialty use yolks that we have. The yolk that is most often on this squeezer is the 4" no hole yolk. The one used the second most often on this squeezer is the close clearance dimpling yolk. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through relay- > switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck so > I don't think there's a reliability problem. ..... Please be careful making conclusions of reliability based upon what is probably not statistically significant. Van correctly admonishes us to be extremely careful with fuel systems (read: it is dangerous to mess with accepted fuel system design). On the accident plane noted, we need to wait to see what the cause of the failure was before we contemplate alternate designs. In every single engineering redesign that I have been involved with, there have always been surprises. Always. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
Date: Jan 05, 1999
> >I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks. I wanted >to >install and seal the tanks to get the job all finished with. >I did not buy the Isspro gauges because my last ones would stick and >always >needed a rap to move off full. >My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? >I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in >that >they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33. >Besides, most gauges want their own senders just to control the >market. >There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would >they >senders be considered more or less generic ? >I would REALLY like some feedback from any of you out there that know >about >this stuff. > Thanks a >bunch, > >Lyle. > > The VDO line of automotive gages are also compatable. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back
Online!! > >My condolences. I got a bunch of messages from people asking if I knew >what was up with you. I guess I am now a fixture on the RV-list. : ) Apologies. That message was supposed to be a private one to Matt. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Type "S" cowl
Date: Jan 05, 1999
> The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are >much >thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more >difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the >thinner >material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in >anyone's experience, especially from those of you who have done both >types. >Any suggestions? - The prepreg material is very strong and seems to hold up well with the countersunk rivets even though it is thin. An excellent adhesive (though messy to use) for gaining some extra strength in the hinge attachment is to use Proseal. The most difficult thing with the type S cowl is actually countersinking the holes. Because there is no gel coat like the polyester resin cowl you are actually cutting into the glass material. As a result, countersink cutters get dull very quickly... Has anybody found a cost effective way for getting cutters sharpened? I have been trying to find carbide countersink cutters for this purpose but I have not found any yet. I thought Bob and Judy Avery used to carry them but I din't find any in the current catalog. Any one know of a source? - > Also, I'm interested in any discussion between piano hinge or cam >locks or >DZUS fastners or machine screws for the top to bottom horizontal >mating of >the cowls. I lean towards the hinges because that's what I'm used to >and >they're a lot cheaper. > We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl >to >top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8 >screws & >nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the >thin >material, I'm not sure how that would work out. - I can't help you with that one. I have done no Type S installations using anything but hinges. The hinge distributes the load very well through many fasteners, unlike wider spaced screws or camlocks. The prepreg material is very strong though and if done properly other methods would probably work well. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Finish.
Hi, RE: Painting of engine mount. The manual makes recommendations for the paint to be used on the landing gear. Is the same paint recommended for the engine mount? They suggest epoxy primer, finished with either an epoxy, enamel, or urethane finish. Does anyone have any thoughts on epoxy powder coating the engine mount? -Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net>
Subject: Re: Stewart Warner senders
I used the S/W senders with the Mitchell minature gages. Haven't fueled up the tanks yet, but before I sealed the senders in, I removed them from the wings and connected to fuel guages. Then tipped tank upside down to check float freedom and how the gage read. It is good thing I did, as one float arm needed some "adjustment" so it wouldn't catch on rib and both guages only read 3/4 full when tank was upside down. So I removed senders and bent stop tab up so float arm could travel higher. Now they will read "Full" when tanks are full. But they do work with these Mitchell gages. Warren Bishop Buster wrote: > > I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks. > My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? > I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in that > they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33. > > Thanks a bunch, > > Lyle. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Screens-Fuel Vents
How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really necessary? Would a piece of coarse stainless steel wool stuffed up into the tubing work? Von Alexander(getting ready to paint) N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Compass;Necessary?
In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps putting one in at a later time. Thanks. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Charles Gray <c_gray(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Connection
OPP OPPS -- I forgot -- been making only fiberglass / foam aircraft.. YES you could use airframe for ground... I had lots of ground wires on plastic airframe. cheers .. Charlie Gray. JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 1/3/99 7:31:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, > c_gray(at)bellsouth.net writes: > > << I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III > -- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >> > Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I > was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use > the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of > equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane. > Just something to think about, maybe. > Jim Nice > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming!
Date: Jan 06, 1999
> >New Lycoming engines used with a fixed pitch prop can result in a forced >landing or worse if you do not read the fine print! snip > >My friend and as it turns out many others, simply bolted the prop to the >engine as it came out of the crate. Bad move! What service instructions >#1435 say is that YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT PLUG, PUNCTURE OR REMOVE THE >REAR PLUG AND RE-INSTALL A NEW FRONT PLUG TO PREVENT OIL PRESSURE BUILD UP >BEHIND THE FRONT PLUG. Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front plug. Where is this pressure coming from? Thanks, John Ammeter Seattle WA USA 1975 JH-5 RV-6 (sold 4/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: right elevator E-609
Larry When I needed a no-hole yoke, i went to the local machine shop and scrounched through their scrap pile Found a piece of 3/4 thick steel plate big enough for a longeron yoke and a no-holer. Gave the shop my original yoke and outlined how I wanted the holes cut out for the pin's etc. They stuck it in the mill, machined one end to fit in the squeezer, milled the slots and drilled the holes. They even case hardened the no-hole yoke for me. Granted the 'longeron' yoke flexes a hair and both are not made out of tool steel (3/4 inch makes up for that) or are plated black but squeeze -4 rivets just as good and for time and material. (material was for free of course ;-} ) Best thing of all, I went back and had them modify the no-hole one to fit in a tight place and that was done for free. Just thought I let you know about an alternative. Gert Larry Bowen wrote: > > > I'm in the same boat. I've been waiting on the 4" no-hole yoke from Avery's > since October so I can finish the rudder and get the tight-quartered rivets > in the elevators. In the mean time, I'll start on the wings... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
You can always weld a gusset in the 4" yoke and make it a 3" no-hole yoke. That stiffens it up considerably. Beats having it hanging on the wall as a reminder.....;-) Gert Larry Bowen wrote: > > > Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? > I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been > waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering > cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed > very little compared to the Tatco. > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Wiring runs
> >This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place >to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system >tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a >coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best >to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is >the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be >appreciated. > >Robert Kellar >RV-6A fuselage "innards" > Robert, I puzzled a lot over getting wires from the aft fuselage to the intrument panel. I have a full IFR bird so there are a lot of them (Com1, Com2, GPS, ADF, VOR and LOC, Transponder, Pitot heat, Strobes, Position lights, Landing lights, electric trim). This big bundle of coax has to get forward somehow and the trouble with using the longeron or arm rest to do it is that you either have a huge hole punched in structure or an unsightly bundle winding around same. I chose to bring everything up the centre of the fuselage and through the spar support plate underneath the fuel selector. I kept everything tied down with cushion clamps to keep it out of the way of the elevator pushrod and then ran it up the back of the "U"section brace from the selector mount to the panel. This looks OK although it is a little tight to fit things in the sub-floor section and could be a bitch if you didn't make the baggage floor removable. This is one of the sections where the manual is pretty much silent. Good luck Leo Davies Sanding fibreglass @#$% & %$#@$ % ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Gear Weldment
Date: Jan 08, 1999
My question is; >do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. > >Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these >bolts >will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare > They are flush screws because at least one (the forward one) will show and I think usually a small portion of the scond one shows. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Guy Deraspe <derasguy(at)stjeannet.ca>
Subject: Re: year2000
> Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator > is year 2000 compatible > > Many thanks , > K . You should also verify that your GPS will pass August XX, 1999. On this date, I do not remember which one exactly, the GPS system week counter will pass from "GPS week" no. 1023 to "GPS week" no. 0. I was told that some GPS may not be able to handle that week counter reset gracefully... Guy Deraspe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: Re: Type "S" cowl
At 11:22 AM 1/5/99 , you wrote: > > The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are much >thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more >difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the thinner >material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in >anyone's experience Bob, I just finished the "S" cowl. I machine countersunk the rivets for the hinges and the finish rivets are very flush. I used the Avery heavy duty ball bearing countersink cage. I clecoed the hinge in place and then countersunk using the rivet holes in the hinge to guide the countersink pilot. I epoxied and riveted the hinges to the cowl. I drilled 3/16 holes in the hinges between each rivet for the epoxy to ooze thru. To insure that no epoxy got in the hinge hoops, I had a pin installed in the hoops. Bob Haan bhaan(at)easystreet.com Portland, OR RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lisa Wilmer" <lisaw(at)cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Re:
Date: Jan 05, 1999
charlie, Horizon Air in Billings is advertising 214$ airfare from Phoenix to Billings. Would you please check on that? I don't know how long the special will last, but you could prepurchase Kady's next tickets to get that rate! I am terrified to let her fly by herself. I hear United takes really good care of kids. ---------- > From: Charlie <ckfiber(at)dallas.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: > Date: Tuesday, January 06, 1998 1:27 PM > > > I went from 60-70 mesages a day to 0! I did not unsuscribe, is this my > problem or is everybody affected? > > > > > +-- --+ > | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com | > | --- | > | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" | > | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. | > | --- | > | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting! | > +-- --+ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: grounding and wire weight
>> . . . . He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane. >> >Just something to think about, maybe. > >I'm afraid that's a croc.... er... a bit of an exaggeration. It >sounded suspicious to me so I went home last night and weighed some of >my wire. #20 comes out to just over 0.09oz per ft. At that weight it >would take about 2488 feet (!) to get 14 Lbs. >I'm not necessarily advocating running separate grounds, just wanted >to clarify the weight issue. > Good for you Randall . . . I was wondering if anyone would catch that. Last time I weighed a harness stripped from an ol' 172 just for the heck of it, every wire in the airplane totaled just under 10 pounds. This is one of the reasons why the 14V versus 28V weight savings for wiring doesn't make much sense for small airplanes . . . it just isn't THAT much. On the other hand, if you are wiring a B-52 with nearly a 100 miles of wire in it, the savings can be considerable. In any case, your skepticism was justified! Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 05, 1999
This sounds really good Doug. I do have one question about these "experimental" angines. What are the implications in terms of insurance with such an engine? Sylvain RV-8 Wing Skins Fellow Listers: I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold: go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport. I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to aircraft engines. ... ... If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list. Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Constant speed.
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Bob, I have a new O-320-D1A and Hartzell CS prop from Van's on my -6. From the front edge of the starter ring gear teeth to the aft edge of the rear spinner bulkhead flange measured 3.1" Hope this helps. If you need more info, call me @ 407-777-8450. Rick Caldwell RV-6 finishing this year ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
Larry Bowen wrote: > > > Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? > I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been > waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering > cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed > very little compared to the Tatco. > > Reconsidering, > Larry > RV-8 trim tab > larry(at)bowen.com > http://larry.bowen.com > Larry, I have 3 of Avery's yokes and the 4" has flexed out of alignment so much that is will not set a proper shop head any longer. I used it on AN3 rivets without incidence. Then I tried it on AN4 rivets and it only took 8 rivets to screw it up. I have heard that Avery's has had "bad" batches of the 4" yoke and I think I have one of them. I sent them an email and am waiting for a response on what they can do about it. Most of my tools are Avery's and they are the highest of quality. I think my 4" yoke is a very unique circumstance. Other posts suggest no problems with their 4" yokes so I must have an inferior one. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric shipping time
Date: Jan 08, 1999
>use in my RV6, I ordered several items from The AeroElectric Connection >web site on 12/10. So far, I have received none of the items. I expected >to receive the various goodies I needed to begin the wiring of the panel >in a couple of weeks at the most, and this was factored into my >accelerated building schedule. However, the panel project has ground to >a halt as I await the shipment. Hello All, Sam, you are not the only one. Like you, I rethought how the electrical design should be after reading the Aeroelectric Connection. I placed an order 11/19 by fax. By the second week of Dec. and no parts, I mailed the order in case the fax was lost. The phone call always gave me an answering machine. I E-mailed Bob twice about the receipt of my order...got no response. So 1/5 I E-mailed him the same order for the third time. Still not a peep from A.C. If we can't get Bussman fuse blocks, Loadmeters, etc. from A.C., what other options are available? I've tried Newark's but most parts are not there. Rick Caldwell RV-6 Finishing in FLA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lschuler(at)cellular.uscc.com
Date: Jan 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Wire terminals
Bob Nuckolls wrote: >... >I hear that Radio Shack parts went to Mars on >the last lander mission. The trick is to >understand what you want the parts to do and >which ones are suited to the task. To put a >wet blanket (or a warm one for that matter) on >any single supplier's hardware may not be very >useful in terms of offering advice. .. >If we design our airplanes for failure >tolerance, then absolute quality >is less an issue . . . one may try a >component in any location and upgrade >it if its maintenance history is >unsatisfactory. The process can be more >comforting if we educate ourselves with >respect to what's needed and compare it >with what's offered . . . Having an electronics background and understanding reliability issues related to a transistor or an IC chip better than I do a steel bolt or a heavy glass lay-up, it's too tempting to pass up.... Seems to me Bob has some solid reasoning applicable to other suppliers of airplane parts/supplies, such as Wicks, ASS, Harbor Freight, Featherlite, Aerocad, Brock, Wright-LCC (EZ-Lift), B&C, the local NAPA store, and so on. Also seems to me that we each must arrive at a compromise somewhere between building in "fault tolerance", and our individual tolerance for faults... For example, we could buy a "mirroring" hard drive for our home PCs (or two engines for the plane) at additional cost or choose to tolerate an occasional head crash on a single drive (or occasional engine-out in the plane). As Nat Puffer so eloquently pointed out when I got concerned about air pockets in the lay-up of my fiberglass nose strut: "Worry about the important stuff". Trick, of course, in applying Nat and Bob's reasoning is knowing what's important at an appropriate point (pre-fatal-failure) in our airplane-building learning curve... ..Regardless of the supplier, or part. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: S Cowl-Prop Spacing
Date: Jan 08, 1999
Hello List, I sent this message days ago but it got lost. There is 3.1" between the front side of the gear teeth and the rear side of the rear prop bulkhead flange. This was measured on my -6 with a new O-320 and Hartzell CS prop (from Van's of course.) Rick Caldwell RV-6 #24187 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Weldment
> A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the > jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59 > indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV > would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is; > do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. > Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts > will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare They need to be countersunk. They lie almost on the line of the root fairing. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
> Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to > bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the > engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise? USD 75 for customs agent fee, that is all. No import tariff. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Weldment
Marty Sailer wrote: > > A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the > jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59 > indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV > would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is; > do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. > Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts > will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare Marty, These bolts are in full view for all to see. I would recommend using the AN509 bolts as describe in the plans. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
Date: Jan 08, 1999
The Grand Champion Long EZE went down this fall when the electrically operated fuel valve didn't open. -----Original Message----- From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 8:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Harmon Rocket Accident > >> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through >relay- >> switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck >so >> I don't think there's a reliability problem. > > >..... Please be careful making conclusions of reliability based upon what >is probably not statistically significant. Van correctly admonishes us to >be extremely careful with fuel systems (read: it is dangerous to mess with >accepted fuel system design). > >On the accident plane noted, we need to wait to see what the cause of the >failure was before we contemplate alternate designs. In every single >engineering redesign that I have been involved with, there have always been >surprises. Always. > >Alex Peterson >Maple Grove, MN 6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
billla(at)warbird.org wrote: > > > As I posted on the list before, I'll need to get started in my > apartment. I set up a 3 x 8 table and inventoried everything. Man, > that was too easy. The one time I found myself wondering what the heck > something was, there was a sheet of paper in the bag on how to tell the > plates apart! Just incredible. I'm assuming that folks don't keep the > bags together, since they're not referenced in the instructions, but > label the components and put 'em in a set of drawers. > Bill, I grouped rivets and nuts of the same size in those little 15 bin plastic organizers that sell for about 1.50 apiece. I wrote the AN/MS number of the parts in each bin on the lid for easy reference. For the single and low count items I transferred the contents of the bag into zip-lok sandwich bags and wrote the bag number and description of the contents on the new bag. This way when the plans call for an AN-whatever I can search through the see-through bags and/or read the description and find the odd part real fast. The bags fit nicely into a shoe box or two. I feel that keeping your small parts organized is of great importance as the parts count will climb exponentially with the wing and fuselage kits. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 33993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
Date: Jan 08, 1999
>In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: AeroElectric shipping time
Sam Buchanan wrote: ... I am interested in hearing from a few builders who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the shipping times you encountered. ... I ordered about $300 worth of parts for my 6A from AeroElectric around Dec 20th, using the web based order system. Deanna Douglas was very apologetic about delays in shipping through the holiday period. I received the package yesterday, Jan 7th. I was very happy with the service received. Chris Good, West Bend, WI Starting on 6A-QB electrics. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming!
John, This is how I understand it works in a real simple way. The oil supply for the prop is supplied by the oil line from the governor and enters the crankcase midspan in the front main crank bearing. There is a groove in this bearing so that oil can flow into a tube that is drilled thought the hollow forward part of the crank. If you are using a FP prop, the oil line is removed and the entrance hole plugged. The grove in the bearing is still there and allows the lubricating oil for the front main bearing (at 75 psi or so) to enter the hollow crank in the same way the oil did when a CS prop was used, although and a much reduced rate. It is more like a small leak. If both plugs are still installed and the rear plug is intact, pressure will build and the front plug will blow out leaving you with a miserable day. Gary Zilik 6A s/n 22993 > > > Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs > from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It > seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that > there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front > plug. Where is this pressure coming from? > > Thanks, > > John Ammeter > Seattle WA > USA > 1975 JH-5 > RV-6 (sold 4/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com>
Subject: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation
I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for heat and noise. Recently at work I recieved some promo material from 3M that included information on thier Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation that is being used by some car manufaturers to dampen noise and thermally insulate areas like doors. This is the same stuff that they have been selling for years to insulate coats and sleeping bags. They describe it as a resin-free blends of plyporylene and plyester micro fibers and claim it is especially efficient in addressing airborne noise between 630 Hz and 4,000 Hz. Performance is based on weight and not thickness and appears to be very light. Three thickness were listed: TAI2000 200 grams/sq. meter 21 mm (.8") thick TAI4000 400 grams/sq. meter 35 mm (1.4") thick TAI6000 600 grams/sq. meter 42 mm (1.7") thick I have two questions: 1. What noise frequency occures in RV type aircraft (i.e. will this stuff be effective for them)? 2. Has anyone tried this material in their airplane and what were the results? I'm trying to contact the product representative from 3M to discuss this product and to see were I could possibly buy it in smaller quantities. It may be possible to use the Thinsulate material available at fabric stores, which I will ask. I will also try to find out any information they may have on fire resistance and gas produced when burned. Frank Smidler RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
jerry calvert wrote: > > > Larry Bowen wrote: > > > > > > Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? > > I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been > > waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering > > cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed > > very little compared to the Tatco. > > > > Reconsidering, > > Larry > > RV-8 trim tab > > larry(at)bowen.com > > http://larry.bowen.com > > > Larry, > > I have 3 of Avery's yokes and the 4" has flexed out of alignment so much > that is will not set a proper shop head any longer. I used it on AN3 > rivets without incidence. Then I tried it on AN4 rivets and it only took > 8 rivets to screw it up. I have heard that Avery's has had "bad" > batches of the 4" yoke and I think I have one of them. I sent them an > email and am waiting for a response on what they can do about it. > > Most of my tools are Avery's and they are the highest of quality. I > think my 4" yoke is a very unique circumstance. Other posts suggest no > problems with their 4" yokes so I must have an inferior one. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok -6a wings > Hi group, My answer to Larry's question was sent before the server went down and is just now reaching the list. I had sent an email to Avery's describing the problem and Ken Avery promptly called me with an offer to correct the situation. That's what I call excellent customer service! Anyway, sent the yoke back and am looking forward to getting one back because it is very useful in tight areas. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "STEVE WHITE" <SGWHITE(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 08, 1999
I picked my engine up from Bart and brought it back through Customs. First there is no Duty on General Aviation Engines. I checked with U.S. Customs before I went up and they sited the rule that appied which I have unfortunatly have foregotten. Just make sure you declare it. I was asked for a bill of sale that was all. good luck, Steve White s/n 24000 RV6a Wiring & plumbing ---------- > From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV-List: Aero Sport Power > Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 2:45 AM > > > Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to > bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the > engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise? > > Steve Soule RV-6A > Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order. > > -----Original Message----- > > I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip > was two-fold: > go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at > Aero Sport. > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Beginning builders hands on question and answer session
Fellow RVers Sorry for the short notice, but here it comes. My wife, myself, and the Rocky Mountain RVators builders group are hosting a general question and answer session for beginning builders stages of construction are invited and experienced builders will only widen the pool of knowledge. My own 6A in the "finishing stages" will be there for inspection and critique. The Place: Gary and Carolyn Zilik 13342 Omaha St. Pine Junction, CO 80470 303.838.4188 How to get there: State Highway 285 south out of Denver to Pine Junction. Turn right at Glenn Drive. Hi Country Feed is located on the corner. One block on Glenn drive then a forced left onto Sioux Trail. One block on Sioux Trail to Omaha St. Right on Omaha to 13342 Omaha St. This is the fifth house on the right. Please RSVP if you plan to attend but this is not required. I would just like to know how many are going to show up. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back
Online!! Matt, Welcome back!! I was beginning to think that the last fund raiser was so successful that you went to Mexico to start a clandestine RV factory!!! (You know NAFTA and all that!) Anyway I think everyone realizes how much the RV-List means to them now. I really knew you were working hard to fix things for us. Thanks a bunch! AL 925-606-1001) > > >Dear Listers! > >Matronics is back online after an agonizing 3 days without Internet >connectivity! As you might have guessed, the problem was related to >the new upgrade ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Return flow transducer
"Ralph E.Capen" wrote: > > > > Their VM1000 has fuel flow info but does not mention a return flow > transducer for injected applications. > > > > Here's the answer from the folks there: > > The single transducer is installed in such a place as the return flow > is already counted and doesn't return top the tank as it is plumbed > into the original feed stream. > > The VMS folks say that it works fine just like > this so - back to the books for me. > No need to go back to the books Ralph, it's really very simple. The Bendix fuel injection systems used in aircraft are of the 'constant flow' type. OTW, fuel is being continuously sprayed by the injector nozzles. The fuel injector servo receives fuel from the fuel pump and measures the volume of air passing through the fuel injector servo at that time (air flow is determined by engine speed, throttle plate position, and air density), the fuel injector servo then meters (regulates) the correct amount of fuel (it actually regulates fuel pressure, but that's another story) to the distribution line which is routed directly to the distribution spider and from there to the individual injector nozzles. The VM1000 transducer is placed in the distribution line between the servo and the distribution spider on top of the engine. Return to tank line (for those servos so equipped, and not all are) is from the fuel servo - prior to fuel metering- back to the tank. So the VM1000 transducer only measure that fuel that is sent to the injector nozzles in each cylinder and consumed by the engine. Bruce Glasair III builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming!
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Thanks for your explanation. I hadn't thought about oil supplying a bearing. > >John, > >This is how I understand it works in a real simple way. > >The oil supply for the prop is supplied by the oil line from the governor and >enters the crankcase midspan in the front main crank bearing. There is a groove >in this bearing so that oil can flow into a tube that is drilled thought the >hollow forward part of the crank. If you are using a FP prop, the oil line is >removed and the entrance hole plugged. The grove in the bearing is still there >and allows the lubricating oil for the front main bearing (at 75 psi or so) to >enter the hollow crank in the same way the oil did when a CS prop was used, >although and a much reduced rate. It is more like a small leak. If both plugs >are still installed and the rear plug is intact, pressure will build and the >front plug will blow out leaving you with a miserable day. > >Gary Zilik >6A s/n 22993 > >> >> >> Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs >> from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It >> seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that >> there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front >> plug. Where is this pressure coming from? >> >> Thanks, >> >> John Ammeter >> Seattle WA >> USA >> 1975 JH-5 >> RV-6 (sold 4/98) > > John Ammeter Seattle WA USA 1975 JH-5 RV-6 (sold 4/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 08, 1999
I really have no idea if there would be any difference with regard to insurance. Haven't asked my insurance man. Perhaps other Listers may comment. I think you will find that most often nearly all homebuilts end up with "experimental" engines anytime a non-FAA approved prop/engine combination is used or if you install say a Air Flow Performance fuel injection system, or an automotive alternator. Doug >This sounds really good Doug. I do have one question about these >"experimental" angines. What are the implications in terms of insurance >with such an engine? > >Sylvain > >RV-8 Wing Skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 08, 1999
Steve: There is a brokerage fee of around $75. That is the only unusual fee other than shipping that I am aware of. Apparently there is no difficulty in obtain an engine from Canada. Doug > >Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to >bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the >engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise? > >Steve Soule RV-6A >Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
FAR 91.205 requires a magnetic direction indicator (ie: magnetic compass) > > >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com > > Bill Pagan "I am but a simple man with simple needs" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: michael brown <browngalaxy(at)ezol.com>
Subject: Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation
Please take me off the mailing list. I travel all the time and come home to thousands of emails Thanks mike > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1999
From: thoule(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle)
Subject: platenuts
Listers, I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp, the support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at the plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so I assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is do you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against the E-615pp or how do you handle these. Thanks very much in advance. Tim Houle RV6 Rudders Three Hills, Alberta *************************** Tim Houle email: eprth(at)kneehill.com *************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: (customs) Aero Sport Power
Date: Jan 08, 1999
Bart Charges you $75 dollars for the brokerage fees if you do not want to do the paperwork yourself. I did pay the $75, and it was completely transparent to me that my engine came from Canada...very much worth it! Paul Besing -----Original Message----- From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:15 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Aero Sport Power > >Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to >bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the >engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise? > >Steve Soule RV-6A >Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order. > > -----Original Message----- > > I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip >was two-fold: > go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at >Aero Sport. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Screens-Fuel Vents
Date: Jan 08, 1999
--- > >How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really >necessary? >N41VA(at)juno.com > > >Von, I used a small piece of the metal type of window screen and put it on very carefully with proseal. That darn stuff sure is versatile, and yes in my opinion it is necessary . Keeps the mud daubers (sp?) out. > Ken C-FKEH RV6 First flight Sept. 8/93 Salmon Arm B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
Subject: RV-3 Builders/Flyers/Enthusiasts
Date: Jan 10, 1999
List- I would like to put out a "feeler" for persons interested in possibly starting a RV-3 group/data base for builders, flyers, and enthusiasts, and would like to get some feedback as to how many people from the List would be interested. My idea behind this has come from my experiences on the RV-list. It seems like every time a -3 thread is posted, I meet 1-2 persons building or flying a RV-3 that end up contacting me off list to ask questions and share experiences with, and my feelings are that people may be interested in a group listing to share information. I get invaluable information from the List everyday, but let's face it, how many of you are really interested, or have knowledge specific to the RV-3 anymore, some, few??? That's my point, and reasoning behind my idea. Please email me off list at if you would be interested in such a group. My idea was to put together a listing of: Name, address, phone #, email, RV-3 data-i.e., builder/flyer/owner, stage of construction or completion, type of RV-3(type I or II spars, slider or tilt canopy, etc.), modifications completed(CN-1, CN-2, others), other mods, engines/prop combos, and any other information that people might be interested in. Then, distribute the list to everyone interested. Sorry for the long message. Back to the important stuff. . . .RV-List topics! Blue skies! Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 (oldest "unfinished" RV?????) :-) Socorro, NM 505-835-3644 Rob Reece, Rocket Propulsion Test Facility Manager & Scorpius Launch Coordinator Microcosm/Volt c/o EMRTC NM Tech Mail Station Socorro, NM 87801 (505) 835-5716 voice (505) 835-5299 fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Gear Weldment
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Marty, Mine looked like the wing root fairing would touch or cover the heads of the screws, so I guess it will have to counter sink them. By the way, how did the forward brace fit on the two you are building? I had to bend mine slightly and even then had to make a shim between the fuselage and the brace. Steve Soule RV-6A getting ready to install the HS to the fuselage -----Original Message-----My question is; do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare Thanks, Marty Sailer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Type "S" cowl
Scott, I recently purchased countersink cutters from MSD at their Pompano Beach, Florida store. The clerk had a difficult time finding piloted cutters in the #30 & #40 sizes till he looked in the 96/97 catalog. (He said he knows that catolog backwards and forward). I just looked them up in my 96/97 MSD catalog. They are found on page 132. PART NUMBER DESCRIPITION COST IN 96/97 CATALOG 60320033 #30 HSS piloted countersink 100 degree $8.01 60320017 #40 " " " " " $8.01 60315017 #40 Solid carbide piloted countersink 100 degree $40.86 60315033 #30 " " " " " " $40.86 They also carry both styles in the #21 and #10 sizes as well. For the carbide cutters to be cost effective, they will have to last at least 6 times as long as the high speed steel variety, which they usually will (and then some). These C/Ss have 4 cutting edges on them, so slow speeds are recommended to prevent chattering. Hope this helps Charlie Kuss RV8 wings Boca Raton, Fl. Going to Miami today to help uncrate Phil Lozman's RV-8AQB today. Hope he doesn't mind me drooling all over his kit!! :-) > The most difficult thing with the type S cowl is actually countersinking > the holes. Because there is no gel coat like the polyester resin cowl > you are actually cutting into the glass material. As a result, > countersink cutters get dull very quickly... Has anybody found a cost > effective way for getting cutters sharpened? > > I have been trying to find carbide countersink cutters for this purpose > but I have not found any yet. I thought Bob and Judy Avery used to carry > them but I din't find any in the current catalog. Any one know of a > source? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric shipping time
Date: Jan 09, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 10:29 PM Subject: RV-List: AeroElectric shipping time > >Sam Buchanan wrote: >... >I am interested in hearing from a few builders >who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the >shipping times you encountered. >... > Sam, Several weeks seem to be the norm for standard stock items. Custom built parts take longer. Bob built a two speed adjustable controller for my electric flap motor which took several months to receive. On the other hand, when I was troubleshooting my aeroelectric voltage regular installation, Bob responded immediately via email with a very practical procedure to isolate problems. The result was a change to my alternator, which had nothing to do with the regulator. I like rapid delivery parts support, but rapid expert technical support is part of the package with Aeroelectric. Just my opinion. Extend your lead times a little - you won't be sorry. Best regards, John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Subject: Fwd: garmin
y2k for Garmin From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com Subject: Fwd: garmin Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 09:36:59 EST listers From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com Subject: garmin Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:01:19 EST Garmin GPS and y2k Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following. Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its product development. Garmin products should continue to opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year 2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data. Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22 1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event. Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav functions after Gps week number roll over occurs. In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event. Stew RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Subject: Re: Screens-Fuel Vents
> >How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really >necessary? >N41VA(at)juno.com > >> The Rocket vents appear to be locate in a low press area behind the gear leg, so we use a v small pitot tube looking vent. I bend a pc of 041 safety wire into a "U", and insert it into the tube. Underbending the wire allows a good deal of pressure between the wire and the inside of the tube. No problems wth those crazy mud daubers after that. I used the same arrangement on my -4 without the pitot arrangements, so I would say use that on your -8 also. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: platenuts
Date: Jan 09, 1999
> >Listers, > >I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp, the >support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at the >plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so I >assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is do >you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against >the E-615pp or how do you handle these. > >Thanks very much in advance. > >Tim Houle >RV6 Rudders >Three Hills, Alberta Tim, The ears of the platenuts can be dimpled as well. Use a squeezer with a flat-sided female die if necessary. Brian Denk RV8 #379 turtledeck skin goes on today. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: RV6 fuselage jig available
Date: Jan 09, 1999
A fellow builder has a RV6 fuselage jig available. If interested please call Bill Benson (612) 890-8888 Burnsville, MN Rick Osgood ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Systems Questions
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > > I'm still wading through systems selection, and any input is appreciated on > these questions: > > 1) Is there anything preventing me from using a Prestolite starter? For > instance, will it fit inside the cowl? Yeah, I know its not the best starter > out there, but I can pick up a brand new one for next to nothing from a > friend, and honestly, I'm gonna need the weight up front. > > 2) I need tach suggestions from folks who are using Jeff Rose's ignition (the > archives indicate that there *may* be interference with some makes/models of > tach's when using dissimilar ignition sources). I want a reliable, accurate, > analog, 3 1/4 inch unit. Price is definitely a consideration. > > 3) If you are using the Rose ignition, do you have the readout which tells > what advance the system is running? > > Thanks, > > Kyle Boatright > > Kyle, I'm running a Jeff Rose (Electroair) ignition on my RV-3 and have had > absolutely no problems with it. In fact, during mag checks, I regularly see a 40 > to 50 RPM drop with the Bendix mag and nothing with the electronic ignition. I > didn't install the advance indicator because, frankly, I don't see any advantage > of knowing where the spark is at. There's nothing you can do to change it > inflight. And there's no literature available citing the spark advance needed > for your particular flight condition > I have installed a VM1000 engine instrument which seems to provide very accurate > and reliable RPM indications. I used an optical RPM indicator/monitor to verify > the VM1000 readings. Everything was within a few RPM . But, as to who provides a > good electronic tachometer, aside from the people at Micro Systems, I'm sorry I > can't help you there. Your friends Prestolite starter will work just fine. But, if you need to loose a few pounds in the nose area, you might consider one of the light weight starters which are readily available. Enjoy, Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: platenuts
Tim Houle wrote: > > Listers, > > I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp, the > support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at the > plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so I > assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is do > you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against > the E-615pp or how do you handle these. > Tim, I replied to you personally, but thought I'd post it to see what resonses I got. I countersunk mine. I don't think there's much of a structural problem there plus the metal is thick enough for countersinking anyway (check it to be sure). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
Date: Jan 09, 1999
> >> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through >relay- >> switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck >so >> I don't think there's a reliability problem. > If you intend to use electric valves they would need to be failsafe to open or motor driven valves. Either solution would preclude shutting them off in the event of an electrical failure which might be associated with an engine fire. Not a pleasant prospect. Further these valves would still have to be mounted either in the cockpit or ahead of the firewall. Either place would pose the same threat as a manual valve if the it leaked. I don't understand what benefit the electric valves would offer. I use numerous electric valves in my business for both air and oil. In my experience they are certainly not trouble free. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
Date: Jan 09, 1999
>Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as Marhyde. >Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95, > think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Subject: gascolator
Date: Jan 09, 1999
So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in paperwork. Any info would be app t.u. RV6A/fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 1999
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which increases the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why the -8/8A has a higher Vne than the others. Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Fuel tanks..... V. E. Welch wrote: > > Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in > the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces > are at work that are specific to the -8? > > Vince > RV-8A > Starting on rudder > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Weldment
I used regular bolts here. The plans at that time happily directed you to drill all of the rivet holes long before you mount the gear. When it comes time to put the gear in, there are rivet holes where the bolt holes need to be. I was able to enlarge one rivet hole for a bolt, but the other one was in a different place. I was able to work around the problem, but I didn't want to hog out a bunch of the metal to put in a CS bolt. The fairing *just* barely covers the area. I made the fairing flair out just a hair, and the rubber strip seals it off. Just keep an eye on things while you are fitting things in the area. Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)mci2000.com http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/ >A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the >jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59 >indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV >would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is; >do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts. >Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts >will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Landing light
Jon Elford wrote: > > > Jerry, > > You'd be hard-pressed to beat the Duckworks lights for cost and completeness. > For less than $150 you can do both wings. No fuss, no muss.... Simple install. > > Jon Elford > RV6 #25201 > Fuel tanks..... Jon, I agree with you that Duckworks is good. I'm still convinced I can come up with a system for both wings for less than $50 for not much more fuss. Just think, for that $100 dollars I save, I can fly somewhere and buy a hamburger!! Thanks, Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: gascolator
I mounted the gascolator as low as possible on the left side and drilled a hole in the cowl bottom just big enough for my fuel tester to fit through. Then just seal the hole with a chrome snap plug. Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)mci2000.com http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/ >So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be >possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in >paperwork. Any info would be app t.u. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: gascolator
Date: Jan 09, 1999
> >So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be >possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in >paperwork. Any info would be app t.u. > >RV6A/fuselage > > I mounted mine low on the firewall and extended the drain with brass piping. I cut a small 'slot' in the bottom cowling so it would slide over the drain. The drain was flush with the cowling and easily reached from the left side of the aircraft. I did have to reach inside the cockpit and activate the electric fuel pump in order to get anything from the gascolator, though. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA 1975 JH-5 RV-6 (sold 4/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Subject: Re: gascolator
IF YOU WANT SOME THING THAT WORKS THE CESSNA GASCOLATOR WITH THE CHOKE CABLE DRAIN . THE CABLE MOUNTS ON ENGINE MOUNT INSIDE THE OIL DOOR TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net>
Subject: Re: gascolator
joseph.wiza wrote: > > So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be > possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in > paperwork. Any info would be app t.u. > > RV6A/fuselage Or you could us an in-line filter in each line between the tank and selector valve. If one should plug, you have the other tank to use (assuming you have not burned it dry). Car Quest #86033. Has been used for 200+ hours that I know of on one RV-6, with out any problems. You still have tank sumps to drain water. Warren Bishop RV-6 trying to finish. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel tank access cover question
I am building my second fuel tank. I am about to begin prosealing. I am having second thoughts about how I did the access cover on the first tank. I only used fuel lube on the gasket and cover plate before installing the plate. Will this be sufficient? I know some other builders used proseal on their access cover gaskes. Any suggestions? Did I screw up? Thanks for your suggestions. = -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 #1054 - Wings "The essence of character is doing what's right even when nobody's looking." J.C. Watts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Any Builders Near Maui....
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Hi, My fiancee and I will be in Maui the week of February 4th through the 11th. We may be adding a day or two on either end to "see the sights" as the time there will be pretty much taken up with a seminar we are attending. Any RV builders nearby that are willing to show off their project or completion or can recommend some "must see/do things, places or events". Thanks. Paul Bilodeau RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer (about to skin) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Seat Riser Instructions for RV-4
Does anyone have instructions and/or dimensions for RV-4 front and rear seat risers that you are willing to share? Is there a way to build these so they can also keep maps in a handy, secure place? Also, has anyone had good/bad experience with the auxiliary baggage which can be built under the instrument panel? Doesn't look like it would hold much more than maps. How do you latch it closed so it will stay closed during whiferdills yet is easily opened when you need another map during flight? Any chance your stuff would get loose inside there and find it's way into the instrument area when flying inverted? Clay Smith, RV-4, Just trying to figure out where I'm gonna to put my stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Dave Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation
>I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for >heat and noise. There is a real nice insulation kit available for RV's from a fellow builder located in Tennessee. He puts together a real nice package with templates and instructions. All aircraft grade material. Several builders have used it with no complaints. I've personally been flying my -6A with it for almost three years now, wouldn't fly without it. E-mail John McMahon for more info. at: rv6(at)earthlink.net Dave Hudgins Nashville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jkkennedy(at)ktis.net (John Keith Kennedy)
Subject: autopilot
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Listers, Have any of you installed a Brittain autopilot in an RV? IF you have any experience, please contact me off list. Thanks, John K Kennedy(starting fuselage, finally!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Subject: Re: gascolator
I mounted my gascolater on the right side and put a little hinged door (1.5" x 1.5") on the cowl bottom in line with the drain. With this arraingement you can look in the oil filler access door while you're messing with the gascolater and make sure it closes properly when your done. It's not flying yet so take this for what its worth. Dave Beizer Moreno Valley Ca RV6A wiring/paint to go ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: 3 scratch-built rv-6's
Thanks for sharing. I liked it enough that I'm quoting it so that it gets put in the archive. However, the real purpose of this note is to talk about that new feature. After you read my comments, feel free to give your own to Matt (not to me, I'm not the one you have to convince either way). As I've shown with this message, the feature is circumventable - and so I cannot prevent a message of mine from going into the archive. Which I feel is just as well, because if it is not worth archiving, then perhaps it is not worth posting in the first place. Matt, I think you are opening the barn door to a lot of needless posting. The other thing is what it can do to the readability of the archive. Say I've located a thread on widget failures on RVs (I hate when that happens) and suddenly there is a reply to a message that, from context, was obviously valuable and interesting. However, the reply did not quote it, and the original message was never archived. IMHO, this is an unenforceable feature that adds no value but can potentially cause problems for the list as a whole. I'd like to see it scrapped and more effort spent in reducing the spam on the list. PatK - RV-6A (Sorry, Jerry, if you really had a reason not to want your post archived. I thought it was interesting, original, and valuable.) jerry calvert wrote: > > RV guys, > > Have shared this with some of you but thought I would share it with the > rest of the list. Visited a builder in Edmond Oklahoma who is scratch > building his -6. He bought the plans back when Van still sold plans. > The builder had a business at one time that build parts for jet > aircraft. He currently has a powder coating business and the -6 is in > the back of the shop. He has the equipment and skills to build parts > that look almost identical to Van's! You would be amazed. His > wing/fuse skins are at least .032 so that all rivets could be machine > countersunk. When he built his parts, he made enough parts to make 3 > airplanes! All three are around the Edmond area and one is close to > being finished. If you put a kit built beside his scratch built, you > cannot tell much difference. A few details are different in that he > felt it was an improvement to change something. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: 3 scratch-built rv-6's
Date: Jan 09, 1999
> He bought the plans back when Van still sold plans. - You can still buy just plans (except for the RV-8(A) ). I think the price is $250. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Compass deviation card is also necessary!!! ---------- > From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary? > Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 11:51 PM > > > FAR 91.205 requires a magnetic direction indicator (ie: magnetic compass) > > > > > > > >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a > >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps > >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. > >Von Alexander > >N41VA(at)juno.com > > > > > Bill Pagan > "I am but a simple man with simple needs" > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Wire-Wound Pots
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats, actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer the simple oldies. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation
Thanks Dave... John Dave Hudgins wrote: > > >I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for > >heat and noise. > > There is a real nice insulation kit available for RV's from a fellow > builder located in Tennessee. He puts together a real nice package with > templates and instructions. All aircraft grade material. Several builders > have used it with no complaints. I've personally been flying my -6A with it > for almost three years now, wouldn't fly without it. > > E-mail John McMahon for more info. at: rv6(at)earthlink.net > > Dave Hudgins > Nashville > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: platenuts
Date: Jan 09, 1999
The question I have is do >> you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against >> the E-615pp or how do you handle these. >> > >Tim, I replied to you personally, but thought I'd post it to see what resonses >I got. I countersunk mine. I don't think there's much of a structural problem >there plus the metal is thick enough for countersinking anyway (check it to be >sure). Avery sells modified dimple dies, the one for # 3 rivit holes in the plate nuts has a flat on one side that allows you to dimple the plate nut. Their # 14850 $16.00. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com>
Subject: Flap hinges
Date: Jan 09, 1999
OK so I may be getting picky about this but.............. I've been following the direction on building my "8" religiously. (Well, OK, not THAT close) Anyways, I'm looking at my pre-built Flap hinges and the edges are nowhere near finished like I've been told to edge finish everything. Since the pieces are riveted together, I really would have to work at it to get a finish on these edges. What say you all, are you bothering or just putting them on like that? Bob RV8 #423 waiting for more clecos....How the *&%$ many of these things am I going to end up with??? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B&S Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank access cover question
Date: Jan 09, 1999
For what it's worth, when I mount the wings to the fuselage, I intend to remove the fuel lube I put there and replace it with proseal as a gasket and under each screw. Who wants a gas leak?! Brian Eckstein 6A fuselage ---------- > > > I am building my second fuel tank. I am about to begin prosealing. I > am having second thoughts about how I did the access cover on the > first tank. I only used fuel lube on the gasket and cover plate > before installing the plate. Will this be sufficient? I know some > other builders used proseal on their access cover gaskes. Any > suggestions? Did I screw up? > > Thanks for your suggestions. > > > = > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > RV-4 #1054 - Wings > > "The essence of character is doing what's right > even when nobody's looking." > J.C. Watts > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
For what it is worth, I have used Marhyde cans for almost all of my emp. used one can of Sherwin Williams. Never had so much trouble with a spray can. Tossed it and bought Marhyde again. never had a problem yet with the marhyde spray nozzle. Gert Russell Duffy wrote: > > > >Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as > Marhyde. > >Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95, > > think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the > > Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour. > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-4 seat risers
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Clay, Contact DJ at Cleaveland Tool. Along with making the nicest RV interiors you have ever seen, she has plans for the seat risers. Good luck. Joe Rex http://www.cleavelandtool.com/ name="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool & Material.url" filename="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool & Material.url" [InternetShortcut] URL=http://www.cleavelandtool.com/ Modified=E0767B76473CBE0189 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: new engine design
> > Hope springs eternal... > > {excerpts with much deleted} > > ..... the new engine which NASA and TCM are developing > > > ..... a two stroke diesel, 200hp, ...half the price of current engines. > > > ...supposed to be on the market in 2000. ... > If you put $50,000,000 - a small amount surely - into an engine plant and expect > to make 10% on your investment, you will need to sell 1000 engines with an after > tax margin of $5,000 on each! The web site has pictures of the engine and describes the overall scope of the project, to design new less expensive power plants. They envision demand for 10,000 (that's right!) new general aviation planes per year, at prices starting below $100,000. The engine supposeably (sp?) has half the parts of, say, a Lycoming and will use more efficient manufacturing techniques to further reduce the costs. The web site has a nice slide show, and is worth the 20 minutes or so to look at it. Sorry, I don't have the url. martin shorman lawton, ia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Subject: RVs in Auckland NZ ?
NZ listers... Any activity (your summer !) weekend 16/17 Jan, '99 around AKL ? UAL flyer and Harmon Rocket builder laying-over then. John Johntmey(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Wire-Wound Pots
Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats, > actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light > dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer > the simple oldies. > > Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Dennis: Look in the yellow pages (phone) in your town for the nearest industrial electronic parts house. Charlie flying -4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: No-hole yoke
Date: Jan 09, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 12:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: No-hole yoke > >Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke? >I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been >waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering >cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed >very little compared to the Tatco. > >Reconsidering, >Larry >RV-8 trim tab >larry(at)bowen.com >http://larry.bowen.com >---"Douglas G. Murray" wrote: >> > do not post >> > My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work >for you >> > on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this? >> > >> > Terry >> >> Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it >to be too >> springy and heavy to use much . >> It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building >process. On the >> area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I >built the >> riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the >RVator'. It took >> me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and >file - and >> has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now >lend it >> around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their >project. If I were >> to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent >my money on >> something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from >Tatco and >> maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall. >> >> DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint. >> Southern Alberta I have the Tatco 4" and 1.5". The 4" flexes only with 1/8 rivits but it is controlable. When you set a rivit with a squeezer the most important thing that must happen to get a good rivit is that you keep the shaft that holds the dies perfectly in line with the rivit (assuming that the factory head is on the opposite side of the yoke/throat) This requires a larger portion of your applied force when the yoke flexes. If there is too much flex the die on the factory side will start to make a smile along side of the rivit's head. That's when it's time to buck the rivit. The 4" is fine for 3/32 and the 1.5" is also good to 1/8. I have never tried any rivits larger than 1/8 because I don't want to thrash my tools. On a different note I have found that hammering in a 20" C tool makes the nicest skin dimple. I use a mid-size nylon hammer. I was able to do the 3/16 wing spar rivits with great ease in the 20" throat. I put it down on a concrete floor and mounted a 3X gun. They came out beauty. The moral of this story is that if you want to do the best possible job on one of these wonderful little ships, you are going to have to buy alot of tools. Happy New Year, Norman Hunger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Date: Jan 09, 1999
Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall, and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any suggestions? Thanks.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Date: Jan 10, 1999
> >Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not >sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall, >and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern >is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any >suggestions? > >Thanks.. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er >Finish Kit > Have you tried setting the engine mount on a level floor to see if the mount itself is off? I'd think that unlikely but possible. OTOH, have you checked the firewall? Is it flat? It may be that the firewall is not flat. If that is the case I'd think that you could use a spacer to make up for the discrepancy. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA 1975 JH-5 RV-6 (sold 4/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Wire-Wound Pots
<< Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rheostats, actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer the simple oldies. >> The Ohmite line is available thru Allied, Mouser and DigiKey. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: "David C. Aronson, DDS" <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
> Paul and Listers" I am mounting my RV4 0360 dynafocal mount and found my lower right mount about 1/4 inch from firewall. Surprizingly I put the mount on my flat work-up table and guess what. The mounting points are not level. Abount half of that 1/4 inch is in the mount. CHECK YOUR MOUNT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. I plan to call Van's on Monday... Otherwise, the question is, what are the tolerences for the motor mount mounting. Does 1/4 or 1/8 inch mean much either in tilt or out of line with the center axis of the airplane? And what will happen if we draw-up the firewall or distort the motormount by torquing them down and setting it straight by bolting. Will that cause mounting the engine to be that more difficult. Answers anyone? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1999
From: "David C. Aronson, DDS" <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV4 Fuselage Jig for Sale
Taking the fuselage off this coming weekend. Jig is clear douglas fir 2X6 with metal plates and cross bracing. Very straight and stable. Actually fairly light wieght. Location: Vacaville California Please answer off list.... Do Not Archive. Goes to first person to show up with $100.00. About half of what it cost and a saving of at least two weekends. Dave Aronson/RV4 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it. May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > > >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a > >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps > >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. > >Von Alexander > >N41VA(at)juno.com > > Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it. May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > > >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a > >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps > >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. > >Von Alexander > >N41VA(at)juno.com > > Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it. May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though. Finn Russell Duffy wrote: > > >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a > >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps > >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. > >Von Alexander > >N41VA(at)juno.com > > Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Wire-Wound Pots
Aircraft spruce new cataloge, page374 8 Ohms p/n 0144 26.50 15 Ohms p/n 0146 26.50 You can get knobs at raido shack that are smaller and look better, that is what I did. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Test only, don't read
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Jon and OIP: The weight is added ahead of the hinge line to mass balance (or over balance) the rudder (a precaution Van has taken due to the higher Vne). Weight in general is BAD. Weight will do two things: 1) it will increase the energy going into causing flutter -think of it as momentum as the rudder waves back and forth and 2) it lowers the natural frequency of the rudder (assuming it is not added as a structural beef up) and therefore, the speed at which flutter will occur. As you can see in the -8 accident report (Van's web page). They have shakers that are vibrating the airplane at frequencies from 0-50 Hz (educated guess); this is called GVT (ground vibration test). These tests determine what frequencies the airplane will naturally tend to ocsillate. We (a spam company) also have shakers that we fly with that try to excite the airplane using the 0-50 Hz inputs - both wing and tail. Ron FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net >>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which increases >the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why the -8/8A >has a higher Vne than the others. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Carb Heat/Cabin Heat
I am finishing up the engine compartment and had a question regarding carb heat/cabin heat routing. I have the larger heat muff from Van's (9" I think). I was planning to route the output of this to my cabin heat valve (also from Van's), Along the way, I want to insert a "Y" tubing fitting and run that to my carb as the carb heat. Has anyone else hooked this up this way? Will it provide sufficient carb heat? I'm in the upper Midwest, so the heat is important. (It's 5 degrees this morning). I plan to use a suggestion made last week to wrap safety wire around a dowel and then wrap the wire around the exhaust pipe inside the muff to provide extra heating surface. Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel" RV-6 Finishing Engine Install ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Have you checked to see if the cause of the misalignment is with the engine mount or the firewall? -----Original Message----- From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 11:09 PM Subject: RV-List: Engine mount/firewall not flush? > >Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not >sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall, >and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern >is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any >suggestions? > >Thanks.. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er >Finish Kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Heat/Cabin Heat
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Inside the heat muff on my luscombe, is installed a steel screen door spring wrapped around the exaust pipe for added heating surface. Wrap it around the exaust pipe several times, use safety wire to secure and then install the heat muff. -----Original Message----- From: Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 7:56 AM Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat/Cabin Heat > >I am finishing up the engine compartment and had a question regarding >carb heat/cabin heat routing. > >I have the larger heat muff from Van's (9" I think). I was planning >to route the output of this to my cabin heat valve (also from Van's), > >Along the way, I want to insert a "Y" tubing fitting and run that to >my carb as the carb heat. Has anyone else hooked this up this way? >Will it provide sufficient carb heat? > >I'm in the upper Midwest, so the heat is important. (It's 5 degrees >this morning). I plan to use a suggestion made last week to wrap >safety wire around a dowel and then wrap the wire around the exhaust >pipe inside the muff to provide extra heating surface. > >Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel" >RV-6 Finishing Engine Install > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com>
Subject: Lifting tail on run up
Date: Jan 09, 1999
I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly (No.2) South African RV6 (quick build) builder and need help with an answer. Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any tail lift on the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi S26 seems to think this is normal with high power on a light aircraft. A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated. Noel Drew ZU-APF RV6 (No 1) Durban, South Africa ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Paul, Mine was the same way. I can't remember which leg, or which legs did not align well. I called Van's about the discrepancy and got no real satisfaction. I got the impression they'd never heard of the problem before. Since the engine mount is shipped bolted to the center of the finishing kit crate, I wondered if it had been bent during shipping. I suspect it was just warped when it was made. To install, I bolted the three mounting holes to the firewall and just leaned on the high leg and let the bolt pull it down as I tightened it. Everything seems fine although the airplane isn't in the air yet. I will follow this thread with interest. Maybe this isn't a problem and also maybe the situation is not as uncommon as I thought. Cheers, Paul RV6A IO360 in the air in '99 . . .really... I hope... I'm pretty sure.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Subject: Re: Lifting tail on run up
My 180hp CS equipped RV-6 will lift the tail at full power and the brakes locked. Have only done a couple of times to determine a blocked injector. Not very comfortable!! Noel E Drew wrote: > permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any tail lift on the brakes? My business partner who Terry Jantzi C-GZRV RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Inverted Fuel( -6a)
I am working on the fuel tanks and will have the right tank with the inverted-flop tube. Watched George's video again to review the installation of stand-off brackets and the little door on that opens/closes during inverted flight. I'm confused about the operation of the door. George says it closes during inverted flight to trap fuel in the cell. Looks like the one in his video would open during inverted flight and close during normal flight since it is hinged at the top. Is this correct????? Also, the 1 1/2" fuel transfer hole(in the video on same rib with little door) that is located in the middle of the lightning hole area has several smaller holes drilled around it. Is this necessary for more fuel transfer? Thanks, Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
But, weight added ahead of the hinge line is a GOOD thing if you have a flutter issue with that surface. Here is quick and dirty primer on flutter for those who aren't up to speed: Picture a rudder without counter weight. If the vertical stab (VS) of the aircraft is flexed suddenly sideways, say to the left, this moves the hinge point of the rudder to the left, and the inertia of the rudder will cause it's trailing edge to the right. This rudder deflection will put more force on the VS, amplifying its original motion to the left. Eventually the natural strength of the VS will overcome this leftwards flexing, and the VS will start flexing back towards the static position. Now the rudder's inertia will work the other way, and it's trailing edge will deflect to the left, once again amplifying the VS motion. This back and forth flexing will continue, and hopefully be damped out before something breaks. There are several things in play here: the structural flexing of the VS, the back and forth motion of the rudder, and the aerodynamic forces (and damping) caused by the back and forth of the rudder. Each of these things has its own natural frequency, the natural frequency of the aerodynamic stuff will vary with airspeed. If the natural frequencies of the various things are far enough apart the various motions will probably not couple together, and no flutter should occur. If the natural frequencies are similar, then the various motions can couple together, and the amplitude will increase on each cycle until failure of the VS or rudder occurs. This can happen very quickly, in a matter of seconds. This is flutter (or at least one type of it). Generally, things are OK at some low enough speed (although if the design was poor enough this low speed might be less than take-off speed - I saw a video of flutter during a take -off roll of an ultralight). As you increase speed the natural frequencies start coming closer together, and at some speed you have a flutter problem. Now, if we put a sufficiently heavy counter weight ahead of the hinge line, the center of gravity (CG) of the surface will be on or ahead of the hinge line. When we flex our VS to the left, the rudder will not deflect (if the rudder CG is on the hinge line) or deflect trailing edge left (if the rudder CG is ahead of the hinge line). In either case the motion of the rudder does not amplify the motion of the VS, and we have removed one of the factors which gives flutter. CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not have counter weights on ailerons (search the archives before you state that the linking of the ailerons by the pushrods will provide protection - this does not cover us for anti-symmetric wing twisting). Also note that flutter is a bit of a black science. It is not perfectly understood - Boeing lost half of a vertical tail during flutter testing of a modified Navy 707 about 10 years ago. They did a bunch more analysis and ground testing, went back up and lost half the tail again. If Boeing can't predict this stuff, we should be cautious until we have demonstrated via flight test that our aircraft is free from flutter (especially if we have modified something). For more info on flutter, and flutter flight testing, see FAA AC 90-89A "Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing Handbook", available at ftp://ftp.fedworld.gov/pub/faa-oai/90-89a.pdf. Also have a look at "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft", by Vaughan Askue, available from the RV-Ation bookstore, http://www.rvbookstore.com/ Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work) Transport Canada Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html > > Jon and OIP: > > The weight is added ahead of the hinge line to mass balance (or over > balance) the rudder (a precaution Van has taken due to the higher Vne). > Weight in general is BAD. Weight will do two things: 1) it will increase > the energy going into causing flutter -think of it as momentum as the rudder > waves back and forth and 2) it lowers the natural frequency of the rudder > (assuming it is not added as a structural beef up) and therefore, the speed > at which flutter will occur. > > As you can see in the -8 accident report (Van's web page). They have > shakers that are vibrating the airplane at frequencies from 0-50 Hz > (educated guess); this is called GVT (ground vibration test). These tests > determine what frequencies the airplane will naturally tend to ocsillate. > We (a spam company) also have shakers that we fly with that try to excite > the airplane using the 0-50 Hz inputs - both wing and tail. > > Ron > FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net > >>>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which > increases >>the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why > the -8/8A >>has a higher Vne than the others. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: ALTERNATIVE ENGINES/PROPS
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote: > Listers > Has anybody seen an RV flying with a Suburu engine( the Outback-165hp engine)? > How about an RV with the "new" Quasi-Constant Speed Prop. The prop is suppose > to be built by some company called Global Aeronautics, I believe, somewhere in > Louisiana. It is not being sold yet, but is being tested on an RV-4. It is > I think that Global is in Starkville MS. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jsd41(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Tiptanks
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Horace W. Weeks" <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Wire-Wound Pots
-------------Forwarded Message----------------- From: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com, INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com Date: 1/9/99 11:48 PM RE: Re: RV-List: Wire-Wound Pots Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 22:48:28 -0600 From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire-Wound Pots Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats, > actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light > dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer > the simple oldies. > > Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Dennis, I went this route (10 ohm, 10 watt rheostat) and found it could handle only 2 or 3 lamps. I tried a 10 ohm 25 watt rheostat and it would handle 6 lamps but was too large for the space I had available in the panel. Newark Electronics sell these Ohmite rheostats. They have branches in most major cities. Call them for a free catalog. I built the panel lamp dimmer shown in the 2/93 RV-ator by Bill Benedict. This is also on page 222 of the new 18 years of RV-ator. This device uses a LM317 adjustable voltage regulator, is very small, uses a 3/4 " dia. pot and easily controls 10 lamps on my panel. The LM317 adjustable voltage regulator can be ordered from Newark. By the way, they have a 25$ minimum order. If your not up to assembling the dimmer yourself, you can buy one from AeroElectric Connections. I think Bob sells them for about 40$. Ace Weeks RV-6 Panel almost complete 937-848-7073 74464.2105@Compuserve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: G & J <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-6 TU
Hi, RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel. How deep are typical radios? Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub panel? If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism? Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com>
Subject: Fw: Lifting tail on run up
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Hi from a very warm Durban, South Africa. I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly, (No.2), South African RV6 (quick build) builder and need help with an answer. Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any tail lift while on the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi S26 seems to think this is normal with high power on a light aircraft. A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated. Noel Drew ZU-APF RV6 (No 1) Durban, South Africa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Flap hinges
Date: Jan 10, 1999
> Anyways, I'm looking at my pre-built Flap hinges and the edges are nowhere >near finished like I've been told to edge finish everything. Since the >pieces are riveted together, I really would have to work at it to get a >finish on these edges. > > What say you all, are you bothering or just putting them on like that? It sounds like you're talking about the aileron hinge brackets. Yes, they're ugly, and if you look back in the archives, you'll find that they've always been a source of concern. I'm not the biggest stickler for smooth edges, but they violated my standards, so I smoothed them. It takes some time on a scotchbrite wheel, but it can be done reasonably well. These brackets are very important, and I predict a unanimous vote to smooth them. >RV8 #423 waiting for more clecos....How the *&%$ many of these things am I >going to end up with??? Never quite enough :-) Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
Date: Jan 10, 1999
John Monet used the suction cup compass in his Soneria. Hung it down from the canopy. -----Original Message----- From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 2:26 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary? > >I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on >the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it. >May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though. > >Finn > >Russell Duffy wrote: > >> >> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a >> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps >> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. >> >Von Alexander >> >N41VA(at)juno.com >> >> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. >> >> Russell Duffy >> Navarre, FL >> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-6 Ooops?
Hi, RE: RV-6 Tip-up, C602 skin. I am in the process of trimming back the front edge of the C602 Canopy skin so that it will clear F671 top forward fuse skin as the canopy tips up. I think that I have trimmed back the front edge of C602 too far. Before I drill out the rivets and replace the whole C602 skin, I wanted to know if I could fix it somehow. Could I put on a small strip of .020" riveted to the front edge of C602. Would this get covered by and blended into the fiberglass band holding down the front of the canopy? Please e-mail any suggestions or comments. Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 TU
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Yes, yes and yes! Radios and gyros all need cutouts in the subpanel. Watch out for the Wd616D which further limits real estate usable. Also the canopy release channel interferes with anything deep. On my panel a device mounted flush projects over to 1/2 lower on the subpanel, but the bottom line is that my GPSCOM must hang lower on the panel than I wanted to clear the Wd616D canopy bow channel. I also had to displace the GPSCOM (IIMorrorow GX 60 or so) to the right more than I'd like because the canopy jettison channel can't be cut away -- I fashioned a canopy removal arm like Rick McBride's 6 so that I can remove the canopy for access to panel stuff. I am using a three-piece removable panel ala EAA Young Eagles with a three-piece 1 1/2 high Z-channel spanning the whole lower portion -- no center console. The control group takes a lot of room also. In my Skyhawk the engine controls are on 2 1/2 centers and I am sticking with that. By the time you line up carb heat, throttle, prop, mixture and flaps, you have used allot of lineal inches. I am taking the advice of a fellow lister and cutting Masonite (1/8 tempered) before I cut aluminum! It all looks good on paper but this panel business is tricky. Dennis Persyk 6A panel Hampshire, IL -----Original Message----- From: G & J <glenng(at)megsinet.To: RV List <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 10:11 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 TU > >Hi, > >RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel. > > >How deep are typical radios? >Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub >panel? >If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism? > >Thanks, >Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Rockets
In a message dated 1/10/99 12:30:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: << Just currious, how many Harmon Rockets are out there? There are many kits for Rockets that are being built, but as you know it has been extremely difficult to build the Rocket up until now. Now there is a Quick Build Kit that makes building considerably easier. Is there two models of Harmon Rockets? The Harmon Rocket II is the two seat version of the Rocket. As far as I know, there is no longer a single seater. The QB kit is a 2 seater. Is there a factory website? I am working on the Website as we speak, should be completed in a month or so, definately before Sun-N-Fun. Are there very many builder websites? There is a Rocket List very similar to the RV-List. To ask a question, just send it to Rocket(at)Fly.com. What is the main difference in the wings to get the much higher than Van's VNE? Is there an "8" Rocket kit or are they all based on the four? The Wings of the Rocket are based on the -4 spar. The wings have been shortened by approx 15", 7.5" each side. The ribs have all been readjusted to account for the shortening. The wing skins are also thicker than the -4 or the -8. I hope this answers all your questions. Please feel free to email me or call at 561-748-2429. If you would like a brochure, I will have one completed soon, email me with your snail mail address. Scott Brown Florida RV-Ation >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)warbird.org>
Subject: RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Two questions on the QB wing: 1. Do I need a wing jig just to get the top skins on? The reason for asking is that if I don't, I can build a "tabletop" jig for my emp - and not the full "H" rig which I really don't have room for. I ass*u*me that if the jig is square in all respects that it does NOT need to be square with respect to the floor/table. I was thinking about a simple rectangle with turnbuckles to square it to a piece of plywood. Please correct my thinking here :) 2. Is it possible to install the DW landing/taxi lights in the QB wings, or do I have to ask (read: pay for :) Van's to put 'em in while they're building the QB? 3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor? My Sears compressor is BRUTAL and ABSOLUTELY precludes riveting in the apartment, but if the compressor was quiet I probably could get away with the rivet gun on a Saturday afternoon... Thanks! Bill Lattimer N558RV "Fanatimus" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 TU
Date: Jan 10, 1999
> > >Hi, > >RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel. > > >How deep are typical radios? >Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub >panel? >If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism? > Many radios and instruments are long enough that they must go through the sub-panel. On mine, dg, ai, Navaid autopilot(plug), II Morrow com, King xpndr, etc. If you put them where they will interfere with the release mechanism they will interfere. It is necessary to think about this area as well as the hinge areas and the panel edge reinforcement strips, when planning a layout. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q N441LP Cowling Pacer N8025D for sale http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Ooops?
Date: Jan 10, 1999
You could do this, but you will be adding quite a bit of fiberglass, as the fiberglass lay up is further aft of the f671 by a few inches. It may be easer to just put on a new skin and backdrill through your existing holes. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 5:24 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Ooops? > >Hi, > >RE: RV-6 Tip-up, C602 skin. > >I am in the process of trimming back the front edge of the C602 Canopy >skin so that it will clear F671 top forward fuse skin as the canopy tips >up. > >I think that I have trimmed back the front edge of C602 too far. Before >I drill out the rivets and replace the whole C602 skin, I wanted to know >if I could fix it somehow. > >Could I put on a small strip of .020" riveted to the front edge of >C602. Would this get covered by and blended into the fiberglass band >holding down the front of the canopy? > >Please e-mail any suggestions or comments. > >Thanks, >Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Jim R. Stone" <Stonedog(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Rockets
Scott, I tried to check out the Rocket list at Rocket(at)FLY.com and was asked for a name and password for access. WTFO? Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
Kevin Horton wrote: > > CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee > we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not > have counter weights on ailerons The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the ailerons like the -6 does -- Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-8 ailerons, was: Rv-8 Rudder
I should have been more careful in my selection of words. The -8 does have the water pipe in the aileron leading edge. What I meant to say was that the ailerons are not 100% mass balanced - the water pipe is not heavy enough for that. This leaves a possibility for an aileron flutter mode if the speed gets high enough. This could be a symetrical flutter mode if the control linkage were flexible enough, but I think an anti-symetrical flutter mode is more likely. This is a flutter mode where the left wing is twisting leading edge down at the same time the right wing is twisting leading edge up. The left aileron would be going trailing edge down, and the right would be going trailing edge up (this is just a snap shot of where things would be at one moment in time - actually the wings and ailerons would be oscillating). Van has shown that all the RV models are free from flutter in the recommended speed envelope. If you have a properly built, unmodified aircraft, it should be free from flutter, up to the recommended VNE. If you have a modified or poorly built structure or control surfaces, or want to increase VNE, then flutter should be a concern. Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html > > Kevin Horton wrote: >> > >> CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee >> we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not >> have counter weights on ailerons Jerry Springer wrote: > The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the > ailerons like the -6 does > > -- > Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lousmith(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Rv-8 Rudder
In a message dated 1/10/99 2:33:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com writes: Kevin Horton wrote: > > CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee > we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not > have counter weights on ailerons The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the ailerons like the -6 does -- Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com >> Mine does! Louis Smith RV-8 N801RV 70 hours ttsn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Seems to be a common problem. The four mounts in the corners of my 6A mount are in the same plane, but the middle two lower ones are about 3/16's away from the firewall, which checks flat. I plan to just let the bolts pull it in. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN > Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not > sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall, > and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern > is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any > suggestions? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
Subject: RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question
Date: Jan 10, 1999
> >Two questions on the QB wing: >1. Do I need a wing jig just to get the top skins on? >2. Is it possible to install the DW landing/taxi lights > in the QB wings... I used the uprights from my empennage and used a couple steel angle standoffs for the wings. It sure made it easy for flap and aileron fitting. I can't imaging trying to drill or rivet that last skin with it down on a table - it seems like it would be very hard to reach. I also installed the DuckWorks landing light in the left wing, and installed the Gretz heated pitot tube. I then moved the tie-down ring out one bay so the tie-down line wouldn't foul on the pitot tube. >3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor? Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead. Get a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will be *substantially* quieter. Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME Finishing Kit... Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators http://www.skybound.com/BARV http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Systems Questions
> > I > > didn't install the advance indicator because, frankly, I don't see any advantage > > of knowing where the spark is at. I would think it is an indictaor to show that the system is operating properly. Do you not agree, or am I being overly paranoid? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Seat Riser for RV-4
>Does anyone have instructions and/or dimensions for RV-4 front and rear >seat risers....... WAIT! At what stage of the building are you? If you are at the Advanced Canoe stage (fuselage upright, on blocks, maybe on gear) you don't need seat risers yet. If you have the canopy on, you do. I had my seat cushions made by DJ Lauretson (what GREAT seats) and included were instructions for seat risers, which I dutiflly built. They fit great and looked great. Sat on them lots flying The Canoe around in the hanger. Then, I fit the canopy. First time I lowered the glass with me in the airplane, I found I didn't fit. The risers were too high; no canopy clearance, especially in the back seat. Bonked myself in the head. Rats. So, I got out my plywood scraps and 2x4 wedges and fit and cut and fit and cut and made up something that allowed me to fit in the airplane using the cushions and built seat risers with those dimensions and angles. My butt is actually about half on the cockpit floor with risers from there forward. All canopies are different and all installations of canopies are different. It may be the dimensions from someone elses seat risers will do fine. It may be you will have to make several sets of seat risers before you get some that allow you to fit with adequate canopy clearance (waste of time) and comfort. I have several size spares if you want them ;>) Size it in with plywood first, then start using aluminum. You need some forward thigh support, something that gets you off the spar in front and the flap tube in back. You kind of have to design them yourself. I've seen some crude set-ups, some with nothing but the cushions. You do need a place for maps and in-flight junk. I have a radio subpanel below the instrument panel and in front of the stick which houses all the radios and has a map/junk pocket. I like it. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Year Two ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question
I fully agree on the quiet compressor, bought an no-name brand as you described for about 275 dollars and now my building buddies go home crying every time it kicks in and put-puts in the back ground. heheheheheh :-) As for the tiedown ring, doesn't the tiedown assembly also hold the brackets for the aileron bellcrank ?? Why didn't you move the pitot tube out one bay ?? Gert Mitch Faatz wrote: > > I > also installed the DuckWorks landing light in the left wing, and > installed the Gretz heated pitot tube. I then moved the tie-down ring > out one bay so the tie-down line wouldn't foul on the pitot tube. > > >3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor? > > Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead. Get > a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will be > *substantially* quieter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Seat Riser Instructions for RV-4
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Clay, Had the foreward baggage compartment on my first RV-4 and it turned out to be a pain in the butt. It was always in the way whenever I wanted to do any maintenance in that area and took time to remove it. For maps, I built a little case out of .016 and mounted it to the right side wall just aft of F-404. Regards, Bill, N66WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Lifting tail on run up
This is not uncommon in light, high powered airplanes. It simply means that your thrust is overcoming the tail weight. However, if you hold the power on it will come on over and cause a prop strike with lots of damage. On run-ups, tie the tail down if you have to make a static run. Otherwise only run it up to something that is a hundred or more RPM's less than full power. Probably with an adult in the back, the tail won't raise. Phil noeldrew wrote: > > Hi from a very warm Durban, South Africa. > > I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly, (No.2), South African RV6 > (quick build) builder and need help with an answer. > > Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his > permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on > and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, > his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. > Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any > tail lift while on the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi > S26 seems to think this is normal with high power on a light aircraft. > > A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated. > > Noel Drew > ZU-APF RV6 (No 1) > Durban, South Africa > > Matronics: http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives > Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: Inverted Fuel( -6a)
Jerry, the litttle door that hinges is actually a one-way valve. It should be hinged at the top. If you will think of the inboard tank with the flop tube in it, as a "header tank", and think that the outboard section is to supply fuel to the header tank, you will see how it works. Looking at the Van's Manual wing section (7) in the upper right hand corner of the next to the last picture pages, you will see that it hinges at the top. It allows fuel to flow only into the "header" portion of the tank that contains the flop tube. If fuel sloshes outward (towards the hole and hinged door) the door will close off, trapping the fuel in the header section.In inverted flight it will probably be open, but now, the hole will be at the top of the tank and very little fuel will find its way back. The flop tube is still at a low point in the tank as it is supposed to be.. Phil jerry calvert wrote: > > I am working on the fuel tanks and will have the right tank with the > inverted-flop tube. Watched George's video again to review the > installation of stand-off brackets and the little door on that > opens/closes during inverted flight. I'm confused about the operation > of the door. George says it closes during inverted flight to trap fuel > in the cell. Looks like the one in his video would open during inverted > flight and close during normal flight since it is hinged at the top. Is > this correct????? > > Also, the 1 1/2" fuel transfer hole(in the video on same rib with little > door) that is located in the middle of the lightning hole area has > several smaller holes drilled around it. Is this necessary for more > fuel transfer? > > Thanks, > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok -6a wings > > Matronics: http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives > Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: Compass;Necessary?
Lots of pitts guys have done this. They cost about a dollar and seem to satisfy the Inspectors. Cy Galley wrote: > > John Monet used the suction cup compass in his Soneria. Hung it down from > the canopy. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 2:26 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary? > > > > >I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass > near/on > >the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card > near it. > >May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though. > > > >Finn > > > >Russell Duffy wrote: > > > >> > >> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a > >> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps > >> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks. > >> >Von Alexander > >> >N41VA(at)juno.com > >> > >> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument. > >> > >> Russell Duffy > >> Navarre, FL > >> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > >> > > > > > > Matronics: http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives > Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com>
Subject: Re: Wire-Wound Pots
Date: Jan 10, 1999
There is a simple and cost effective and better way with all parts available at Tandy Aerospace (Radio Shack). The components are, 2-1/4 watt pot, and a 2N3055 transistor. Less than $5.00. The circuit is DC analog so no RF problems. If you want a schematic let me know. Dan Morris RV-6 flying >Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats, >actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light >dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer >the simple oldies. > >Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit >Hampshire, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
Alex Peterson wrote: > > > Seems to be a common problem. The four mounts in the corners of my 6A > mount are in the same plane, but the middle two lower ones are about 3/16's > away from the firewall, which checks flat. I plan to just let the bolts > pull it in. Same here, but I made spacers to fill the gap. I preferred to install the spacers than tweak the mount or firewall. Sam Buchanan (RV6 engine, cowl, panel....) "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com>
Subject: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
Date: Jan 10, 1999
I've been happy with the SW 988, except for the last can - the paint doesn't stick despite good preparation. And, the size of the can has shrunk recently but the price hasn't! If I walk into any auto store and ask for Marhyde will they know what I'm talking about? -Larry RV-8 trim tab email: larry(at)bowen.com web: http://larry.bowen.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gert > Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 10:06 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner > > > For what it is worth, I have used Marhyde cans for almost all of my emp. > used one can of Sherwin Williams. Never had so much trouble with a spray > can. Tossed it and bought Marhyde again. never had a problem yet with > the marhyde spray nozzle. > > Gert > > Russell Duffy wrote: > > > > > > >Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as > > Marhyde. > > >Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95, > > > think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the > > > > Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour. > > > > Russell Duffy > > Navarre, FL > > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings) > > > > -- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, > any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > --------- > > --------- > > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Compressor question
From: tmyrick(at)Juno.com (John A Myrick III)
>>3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor? > >Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead. >Get >a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will >be >*substantially* quieter. > > >Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) >RV-6AQME Finishing Kit... >Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators >http://www.skybound.com/BARV >http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm > Mitch, I bought a 3 1/2 hp Quincy compressor from Harbor Freight. It is an oiled compressor with a belt driven cast iron pump. The quality of this compressor is exceptional and much quieter than the oil-less compressors. It cost a little more at $369 but well worth it. Tripp Myrick RV8 #85 - Wings tmyrick(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Inverted Fuel( -6a)
Flying Phil's Circus wrote: > > > Jerry, the litttle door that hinges is actually a one-way valve. It should be > hinged at the top. If you will think of the inboard tank with the flop tube in > it, as a "header tank", and think that the outboard section is to supply fuel to > the header tank, you will see how it works. Looking at the Van's Manual wing > section (7) in the upper right hand corner of the next to the last picture > pages, you will see that it hinges at the top. It allows fuel to flow only into > the "header" portion of the tank that contains the flop tube. If fuel sloshes > outward (towards the hole and hinged door) the door will close off, trapping the > fuel in the header section.In inverted flight it will probably be open, but now, > the hole will be at the top of the tank and very little fuel will find its way > back. The flop tube is still at a low point in the tank as it is supposed to


January 02, 1999 - January 10, 1999

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