RV-Archive.digest.vol-gd
January 02, 1999 - January 10, 1999
>
>> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
>> have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best
>> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must
>> be in the pressure lines.
>
>I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes. Seems
>to work fine.
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Bonding & Riveting Assemblies |
To those who have been bonding assemblies in addition to riveting. What is
the process ? Are parts primed ? What is the expected weight increase ? Can
someone comment on the increase in stiffness and durability of the bonded
assemblies.
Gary Gembala
RV8 Empennage just started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing |
> Could you provide more info on the cleaner? Thanks
I got it from a local company, Airmark Tools. They have a website,
WWW.Airmarktools.com, but when I tried to access it this morning, it was down.
The stuff I got is out at the hangar, and I'll have to run out there and get
the info from it later this weekend. It's called something like Paint and
aluminum restorer and cleaner or something.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
the last time I did an oil seal on a lyc, it also came as a whole unit....the
instructions said to heat it in HOT water, and slip it over prop flange.(be sure
you have taken propeller off first) with the special tool provided...It looks like
an oversize brake adjusting tool.....you really don't need the tool if you take
a
narrow putty knife (well padded, so you wont cut the seal) and pry it over the
flange...It worked for me...hope it works for you...
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one.
> According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a
> split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The
> new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction
> No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a
> copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
> experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience
> replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
> spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
> pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
> be very appreciated!
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A N106RV
> Broken Arrow, Ok
> MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Mark,
My A&P taught me to remove the spring as you suggest then put the seal in
some nearly boiling water. Let it heat up and then slip it over the prop
flange. It will look like you messed up the seal but check it out a while
later and your seal will look like it just came out of the box! It's really
not that hard and you end up with a continuous seal and no split to leak.
AL
>
> The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one.
>According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a
>split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The
>new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service
Instruction
>No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a
>copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
>experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience
>replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
>spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
>pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
>be very appreciated!
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>Broken Arrow, Ok
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane3(at)ibm.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing
Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly
appreciated
Dane RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
The April 98 issue of Light Plane Maintenance (An excellent magazine) has an
article that step by step explains this procedure. To get a back issue you
send $7.00 to LPM Back Issue Dept. 75 Holly Hill Lane, Box 2626 BI, Greenwic,
Conn.
06836-2626. Phone # 203 661 6111.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
Subject: | Re: Low oil temps? |
HillJW(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Ed:
> Thanks for the info on oil cooling. Now, how are you keeping the cockpit warm
> on those real cold days? Will one muff do it??
It has been my experience that these phenomena are related. When the ability
to
warm the oil above 160 goes away, so does the ability to warm the feet. I have
two heat muffs, and they check out when the ambient gets below about 15 degrees
F. The inlet air is so cool at that temp that the exhaust muffed heating won't
get it above body temp. This is with RV 6A and 180HP. Perhaps the spring/steel
wool trick woud do it but I doubt it. My solution is not to fly when it is that
cold unless I have adequate solar heating, which seems to keep me ok down to
around zero.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net> |
Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> Questions:
> 1) Can one ignore the "Flow" arrow on the valve? There is no flow in this
> application.
>
NO! There is a check valve in the parking break valve that allows more pressure
to be applied and captured when the parking brake valve is closed.
Bruce (Glasair III builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RV-6A shoulder harness cable question |
OK, I give up. Where on the plans does it call out the means of attaching
the steel cable to the shoulder harness bracket back there in the tail cone?
I would expect to use a Clevis bolt in an application like that. The kit
came with four AN 23-11's but they look like they are supposed to go in the
rudder cable shackles up front at the rudder pedals. Do I use an AN bolt?
If so, it has to be a drilled bolt, right?
Steve Soule
Puzzled and damn cold (-17 degrees) in Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tiptanks -Clipped Wings |
Sorry gang for not getting the address changed and posting this on the
list.
martin shorman
A bone headed writer wrote:
>
>
> Hi ...
>
> You and I exchanged some e-mail a few months ago when you were first
> relocating to Wichita........
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Mark,
>
> My A&P taught me to remove the spring as you suggest then put the seal in
> some nearly boiling water. Let it heat up and then slip it over the prop
> flange. It will look like you messed up the seal but check it out a while
> later and your seal will look like it just came out of the box! It's really
> not that hard and you end up with a continuous seal and no split to leak.
> AL
>
Before you try slipping the new oil seal over the crankshaft flange
clean the flange up with scotchbrite or emery cloth to make sure there
are no burrs that could marr or cut that new oil seal.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
Fuselage bulkheads, 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Franklin engines vs. Lycoming vs. Superior kit |
All this info. re. trying to save a buck on an option to Lycomings high
price is incredible.
If I get the drift of it all, the Franklin costs a lot less...... until you
add on the parts that come with the Lycoming. Then the two are within a
few grand. While a few grand is nothing to ignore, you still have to come
up with an engine mount and that certainly will eat up a few bucks and a
lot of time. Never mind that you're experimenting with the location and
angle of the thrust line. (shudder)
And as far as the Lycoming/Superior price goes, it sounds like exactly the
same story. ( Perhaps Superior is targeting folks who have an engine in
need of major OH, hence have a lot of the parts not included.)
This listing of component prices does illustrate exactly why there is so
much disgust with Lycoming. $3000 for a carburetor that is less
sophisticated than a $300 Chevy equivilant!? And no, I don't buy the
arguement of production run size justisfying the difference. Chevy
probably doesn't even make carbs anymore (EPA required fuel injection) so
the carb you buy at the local speed shop is a very low production, after
market device.
But, wait a sec, didn't I read that Van's will reduce the cost of the
engine by $800 if you want to delete the carb? Does that mean that I can
buy that carb from Van's?
The bottom line to all this is that any and all costs
quoted/related/conjectured/passed on are, as was aptly put, "quick and
dirty". For instance look at the List Price vs. Van's price for a new
engine; darn near 2:1.
So, I would suggest that we continue the dialog as a way of notifying the
sources that a solid market is waiting cash in hand. And for you who've
commited to an engine, I would remind you that you'll need an OH or new
engine for that next airplane.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Nervous Airspeed Indicator |
The needle on my airspeed indicator fluxuates 10-15 kts around 120 kts. I am
wondering if anyone else has this problem or a solution. I bought the
indicator new from Vans. It seems to fluxuate over a wider range of airspeeds
when it is colder out (up to 150 kts). It stays rock steady below 100kts. Just
wondering if this is a common indicator problem or pitot tube installation
problem.
John Henley, N6LD, 140 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
<< What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
be very appreciated!
>>
Mark,
Dont split the seal. The split type is a different part number that
is also availabe for your engine. The solid type you have is what I would
consider the prefered type because you have 1 less place to leak. The 1 piece
is installed by a heat and stretch method. Some boil the seal in water and
that works great. I havent tried this in the winter but what I usually do is
face my car into the sun and set the seal on the dash for a couple of hours
this heats it up enough for the big stretch over the crankshaft flange. Then
use a little DC4 (dow corning 4) around the outside of the seal before
inserting it in the case. You will find that what ever you decide to do its a
fairly simple job.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Flaherty <yogieb(at)argontech.net> |
Subject: | Lyc crankshaft seal replacement |
I lubricate a zip-lock-bag with engine oil and place it over the prop
flange. This not only lubs the seal on installation but also protects
the seal from possible nicks on the flange. Then use the tool supplied
to stretch the seal over the flange.
Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
<< Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket
Wing
Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly
appreciated >>
Check six!
Mark
HR2 308 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one.
According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a
split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The
new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service
Instruction
No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a
copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience
replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
be very appreciated!
Mark LaBoyteaux >>
Check your breather for obstruction. Do you have a whistle-hole per Lyc
instructions?
There are various types of seals: one pc and slit types. The one pc uses a
tool to stretch the thing over the crank flange, whereas the slit type is
esier to install in the field (with the correct glue). I have also slit the
one-pc type when I couldn't borrow the install tool- lasted as long as the
others! Some seals are retained by a metal retainer.
I had one ship that seemed to destroy a seal every 100 hrs or so. Who knows
why? Out of balance condition? I did get fairly good at replacing those nasty
rascals, but I never did find the best glue. Get this info from your favorite
overhauler.
Luckily, my current engine is very tight in that area. One local fella found
his seal on top of his engine during a preflight- no sign of leakage!
Check the crank for scratches. A scratch along the centerline of the bearing
will take out a seal in short order. You can polish these out with fine emery
cloth.
Goos luck!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
Hi,
I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center
console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward
seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins
be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is
to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector
mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed.
However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed
some light on this for me?
Thank you,
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Nervous Airspeed Indicator |
Subject: RV-List: Nervous Airspeed Indicator
John, Is there another RV handy that you can swap airspeed indicators with?
This should easily identify either the indicator or the plumbing as the
problem. My bet would be the indicator!
Ken
Salmon Arm B.C.
>
>The needle on my airspeed indicator fluxuates 10-15 kts around 120 kts. I
am
>wondering if anyone else has this problem or a solution. I bought the
>indicator new from Vans. It seems to fluxuate over a wider range of
airspeeds
>when it is colder out (up to 150 kts). It stays rock steady below 100kts.
Just
>wondering if this is a common indicator problem or pitot tube installation
>problem.
>
> John Henley, N6LD, 140 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 3:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 fuel valve mount.
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center
>console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward
>seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins
>be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is
>to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector
>mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed.
>However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed
>some light on this for me?
>
>Thank you,
>-Glenn Gordon
>_________________________________________________________________
Glenn, you are on the right track. Cut out the the down bend on the seat
skins in the area where the fuel pedestal tab projects back and mount the
top plate of the pedestal under the seat skins. I did that on my RV6 and it
has saved me a lot of work in eight years of maintaining my airplane.
Martin Sutter RV6 868CM 1,300 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)cwcom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Mark
I changed a crankshaft front seal on an O-320 H2AD (C172) a few months back. The
advice I got from those who had trod the path before me (including an engine
overhaul shop) was as follows:
1) Wrap the prop flange in a plastic bag and insulation tape to make sure there
are no sharp edges.
2) Make sure the seal area is clean of all old seal and sealant.
3) Put the spring around the crank and connect the two ends together (its a lot
easier to do it now than with the seal there as well).
4) Heat the seal up in some boiling water.
5) Pour a load of engine oil over the prop flange and seal
6) Hold one end of the seal in place with a parrallel punch (or similar) through
a
prop bolt hole and persuade the seal around the flange with a non sharp-edged (!)
implement.
7) Check the seal has ended up the right way round!
8) Remove all the tape/bag/oil etc and make sure the seal area is dry.
9) Flick the spring into the groove in the seal.
10) Leave the seal alone for 30 minutes and have a beer to allow it to regain its
original size/form/shape.
11) Apply the approved sealant (sorry can't remember what it is - ask an engine
overhaul shop).
12) Push/stick the seal into its proper position.
13) Look at the faces of the amazed people who gathered to watch the miracle
stretching of a seal to five times it normal size and return back to its former
self.
14) Continue with beer.
Good luck!
Jerry Parr
Peterborough, England
RV-6, G-RVVI
Baffled and wired - still nearly
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new one.
> According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have a
> split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place. The
> new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service Instruction
> No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get a
> copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
> experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous experience
> replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
> spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to the
> pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of will
> be very appreciated!
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A N106RV
> Broken Arrow, Ok
> MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
One piece seals can be easily stretched over the flange. 1st. Remove the
garter spring inside the seal. 2nd. Place a greased plastic baggie over the
flange and stretch the seal over the flange. 3rd. Make sure that the seal
cavity is clean and place a thin film of sealant in the case. 4th replace
the spring. 5th make sure you have a light film of grease on the crank. 6th
press it in place. I like to use a block of wood against the seal and
carefully lever it in place with a large flat screwdriver working it in
slowly and evenly.
If you have the split seal, everything is about the same with out
stretching. Glue the split together using "superglue" The sealant I like
is Loctite 515 or 518. This is a gasket replacer not a locker.
-----Original Message-----
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement?
>
> The front crank seal on my engine has started leaking, so I got a new
one.
>According to my overhaul manual, the seal looks like it's supposed to have
a
>split in it, so you can slip it around the crank, and slide it in place.
The
>new one I have is one piece. My O/H manual tells me to see Service
Instruction
>No. 1303 for the method of installing the solid ring oil seal. How do I get
a
>copy of said Service Instruction? I was thinking that with all of the more
>experienced mechanics on the list, surely someone has had previous
experience
>replacing this seal. What I figure is that I'll have to remove the internal
>spring, and slit the seal myself, and install it in a similar fashion to
the
>pre-slit type of seal. Any suggestions, tips, or pitfalls to be aware of
will
>be very appreciated!
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>Broken Arrow, Ok
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
Subject: | rv-6A elevator horn rivets |
I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the
E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the
center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605
flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all.
The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which
places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those
first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609
flange?
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles H. Ennis" <105523.2542(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Mark,
Don't cut that seal, unless you really enjoy buying them. To install the
solid seal, just heat it in a pan of hot water long enough for it to
soften. With a couple of SMOOTH pry bars force the seal over the prop hub.
In a short time it will resume its former size and shape. Install the
spring and apply the proper cement/sealer and shove it into place. Make
sure the crankcase has been well cleaned or the sealer/cement might not do
its job.
Good luck
Charlie Ennis
Kentucky (riviting fuselage skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Parking Brake 6A Dual Brake System |
This applies to a dual-brake RV6A with Parker 60-5 parking brake valve.
Does anyone have a link to a scanned picture of a mounted parking brake
valve? That would sure help!
Does this mounting sound right? With respect to RV6 Drawing 48R3,
1) Bottom of pilot-side master cylinders connected via Vans supplied VA118
hoses to 90 degree elbows on Parker 60-5 parking brake.
2) Aluminum soft 1/4 tube from straight AN-fittings on Parker valve to
wing-area AN833-4D elbows.
I am confused about the position of the arm for valve open (parking brakes
off) and valve closed (parking brakes on). My valve doesnt seem to agree
with Parker Product Catalog p 6-9 Design Information for a 60-5 valve. That
drawing shows the valve open with the arm 90 degrees to the broad face and
closed with the arm 135 degrees to broad face. My valve appears to be open
with the arm parallel to the broad face and closed with it plus or minus 45
degrees from the parallel position. The arm on my valve will not articulate
to the positions shown in the diagram on 6-9.
Does the valve get mounted above or below the F6122 angle?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Mi Inglishi is not to good but i can tel you how to change tath seal with out
any tools but your on good hands call me monday 8 to 5 est 1800 5823125
Claudio Purple pasion
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300
bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting
speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill
presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake,
maybe 12 inches or so?
thanks
Ed Wischmeyer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
Ed Wischmeyer wrote:
>
> Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
> relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a $300
> bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting
> speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum.
Don't bother with the Sears variable speed bench top band saw. The motor has no
torque and stalls when cutting thicker aluminum. Normal band saws work well for
cutting aluminum with a fine tooth blade.
> Are there any drill
> presses available without those stupid belts?
Nothing wrong with belts in drill presses. If you really don't like belts, a
vertical mill with geared speeds could be had for $ 1k-2k.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
As for that Sears variable-speed band saw, I bought one a couple of months
ago. After putting a metal-cutting fine-tooth blade on it, its worked very
well for me. The variable speed thing has been handy for using the same fine-
tooth blade for cutting metal and wood. So far anyway, I'm pretty happy with
it.
LTs Jordan and Holly Grant
RV-6 Empennage - getting ready to skin the HS [for the past 2 mos]
Half-way done with Tweets....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location |
Hi,
Are there any alternate locations for mounting the manual elevator trim
control on the RV-6. I would like to eliminate the center post from the
cockpit layout.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
Sure! Right! Speeds slow enough to cut aluminum..... That's the speed to cut
wood also. BIG DEAL!
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
>
>Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
>relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a
$300
>bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting
>speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill
>presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake,
>maybe 12 inches or so?
>
>thanks
>
>Ed Wischmeyer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
I agree with Gary with everything except the fine tooth bit. Aluminum clogs
teeth gullets but you have to have at least 3 teeth cutting at all times.
This is not always possible for very thin material. When you start cutting
thicker aluminum, use fewer teeth per inch so they don't clog as quick.
Just remember try and have at least 3 teeth cutting. The 3 tooth rule also
works for steel. Instead of using the wood cutting speed that you can use
with aluminum... 600 to 900 fpm get the fpm down to around 50 for steel,
especially 4130.
Old Shop Teacher
If you really want the fine details, got to a Do-All dealer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
>
>Ed Wischmeyer wrote:
>
>>
>> Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
>> relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a
$300
>> bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the
cutting
>> speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum.
>
>Don't bother with the Sears variable speed bench top band saw. The motor
has no
>torque and stalls when cutting thicker aluminum. Normal band saws work well
for
>cutting aluminum with a fine tooth blade.
>
>> Are there any drill
>> presses available without those stupid belts?
>
>Nothing wrong with belts in drill presses. If you really don't like belts,
a
>vertical mill with geared speeds could be had for $ 1k-2k.
>
>Gary Zilik
>6A s/n 22993
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lyc crankshaft seal replacement? |
Mark,
You don't have to split the seal. As for it being difficult, If I can do it
any one can.
The suggestions given so far are adequate, the only thing I might add is to
make very sure you have all of the old sealant out of the grove, and that
you don't need a special tool, a couple of flat point screw drivers with the
edges smoothed down a little with crocus cloth to assure no rough edges or
nicks, and have at it. The local FBO made a copy of the installation
instructions for me. I thought it would never stretch that far, but it did.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Nafin" <gnafin(at)provide.net> |
Well I am at the point that I am going to order my first kit
(Empennage ) but now that the RV8 is out dot know witch one to get...I have
had the plans for the RV4 for about 5 years not...so I know how it should
go. and on the RV8 what more is to it?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit |
Do you know about the Harmon Rocket II fast-build kit? The Harmon Rocket II is
the most awesome, affordable, high performance kit built plane on the market.
This plane is now available as a complete fast build kit, with the wings
completed and the fuselage 80% completed. All standard accessories, canopy,
cowl, hardware, and fiberglass are supplied with the kit!
Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please call
me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com.
Scott Brown
Florida RV-Ation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Bonding & Riveting Assemblies |
>
>To those who have been bonding assemblies in addition to riveting.
>What is
>the process ? Are parts primed ? What is the expected weight
>increase ? Can
>someone comment on the increase in stiffness and durability of the
>bonded
>assemblies.
>
>Gary Gembala
>
-
Gary,
There is no way anyone could truely answer your last question without
build 2 of each assembly and then testing them to destruction.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
The only thing I can see as an option
>is
>to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel
>selector
>mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed.
>However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone
>shed
>some light on this for me?
>
>Thank you,
>-Glenn Gordon
>
This one of the few design items that I have always been unhappy with
about the RV-6(A).
Many builders have done as you described, and trimmed the flanges of the
seat pan skins so that they can lay on top of the valve mount.
Others have trimmed the aft flange of the fuel valve mount plate off all
together which is acceptable also.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
>Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for
>a
>relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed
>a $300
>bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the
>cutting
>speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum.
-
When looking for a band saw don't be concerned with finding one that can
be slowed down for metal cutting. This is only required for cutting
steel, etc. A band saw that is set-up for cutting wood with any type of
finish cutting band saw blade for wood works great for aluminum.
When working with aluminum you can use many cutting tools that you would
normalcy use on wood.
Lately I have been the one to make all of the production tool form blocks
which we make out of aluminum (often 7075 which is quite hard).
They are made from a big (4 ft. by 4 ft.) 1 inch thick plate that is
first cut down to smaller size on the crating shops table saw using a
carbide tipped combination blade.
The final cutting is done with our wood band saw using a standard (8 to
10 teeth per inch) wood cutting blade. For final finishing, all of the
edge radiuses are put on using a 1/16" radius round over bit in a router.
As you can see most any tool that you would use for finish work on hard
wood (except maybe for drill bits) can be used for aluminum.
-
Are there any
>drill
>presses available without those stupid belts?
-
There are expensive ones available that you don't have to mess with belts
to change speeds but considering the cost it is over kill for what you
need.
-
Recommendations for a
>brake,
>maybe 12 inches or so?
>
-
ENCO and some of the other tool companys sell a combination
shear/pressbrake/roller. I have wanted one of these for a long time.
You can buy them for about $300 or so, but it is also over kill for most
RV builders. For the short simple bends (under 12") that you are talking
about, most builders are happy with one of the small brakes that you
clamp to the table top.
-
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
Subject: | PLEASE READ - New List Archive Browsing and Downloading Web Page... |
Listers,
I've added an all new Archive file Browsing and Downloading page. The index
for browsing the archives is now generated each time you go to the page, so
only the *available* archive "books" are shown along with the start/end
dates. The browsing archives are now also formatted similar to the way
the Search Engine returns messages, so reading through the messages should
be a little easier as well.
I've also added new ftp links to all of the various forms of the archives that
are available for download including Plain Text, Zip, and UNIX Compressed.
I've added a new line in the posted message trailer that lists the URL for
the new Archive Browsing web site.
Please have a look; I'm sure you will enjoy the new an improved browsing
capabilities!
The URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Admin.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location |
>Are there any alternate locations for mounting the manual elevator
>trim
>control on the RV-6. I would like to eliminate the center post from
>the
>cockpit layout.
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
Many builders that have deleted the center console have just made a small
plate out of .063 alum. with a radius on the top and mounted it to the
same tab on the fuel valve bracket that the center console was intended
to mount to.
Make a hole to install the trim cable and you are all set.
This keeps it conveniently located right below your throttle hand but
still out of the way.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6A elevator horn rivets |
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the
> E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the
> center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605
> flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all.
> The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which
> places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those
> first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609
> flange?
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>
Tom,
I responded to your previous question about using cherry-max rivets and
addressed this situation. If I understood your previous post correctly,
you were questioning using the CM rivets to attach the E609 & E605 to
the spar. I bent the ribs out to where a squeezer could reach and then
bent them back to the correct angle. When I was at the same point, I
contacted Van's and asked them how many rivets hold these ribs to the
spar and did the rivets in the Wd405 elevator bracket go through the 609
& 605 flanges. Van's answer was to use two 3/32" flush rivets to attach
each rib and none of the Wd405 rivets go through the rib flange. All
the strength is gained from the Wd405 attaching to the spar and rib
webs. On 5pp, the rivet hole spacing is shown for the Wd405. You are
correct, the innermost rivet holes will hit the end of the flange if you
use the 3/4" dimension. So, I moved those holes out about another 1/8".
Hope this helps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-8 Airbox; Help! |
Scott and Listers;
Somehow after making it thru the baffles, I thought the airbox would be
a quick ordeal. WRONG! I have spent 2 days trying to figure this thing
out and still have gotten nowhere. I e-mailed Tom at Vans, but he was of
little help, his response was 'you just aren't reading the
instructions!'. Anyway, with the pre-molded scoop, and the mount plate
in position, I am finding that the whole airbox and top plate assembly
needs to come down about 1". Of course this puts the airbox on an angle
with the mount plate, as well as not letting the filter seal. Horizontal
line-up seems to be fine. Its the vertical I am having problems with. I
have read and re-read the instructions, and I understand the bend line on
the top plate that gets bent up to follow the contour of the airbox, but
my problem is the fiberglass airbox needs to come DOWN about 1" to line
up with the intake scoop. I could then bend the top plate UP to make the
opening the correct size. If you could just give me your basic procedure
as it pertains to the RV-8, I would appreciate it. It seems like I heard
the RV-6 is the same cowling? For example, I am told you have to cut the
filter itself to fit around the carb drain, but this is not referred to
in the instructions. Is this necessary? Thanks much.
Von Alexander(will be ready to paint when I get done with this #@%***?!
airbox!)
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nanheath1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/01/99 |
I have requested to be unsubscribed from this list and received confirmation
that I was.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nanheath1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/01/99 |
I have asked to be unsubscribed from this list and received a message that I
would be removed.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
Glen,
I mounted the fuel valve mount plate per plans (although the plans aren't
very clear in this instance) on my six. It is a pain when doing
inspections. I have to remove the valve handle and then the top plate
before removing the seat pans.
On "Gillette Charlie's" RV6A, we lowered the fuel valve mount plate so it
is well below the top of 604. In other words, it is not attached to the
seat pan area at all, only the two angles that bolt to the front of the
spar. This lowered mounting height will come in handy when laying on your
back while inspecting under the instrument panel or laying on your stomach
when working on brakes, etc. We also put a couple of spacers between the
valve and the bottom of the plate so the selector handle is more flush to
the mounting plate.
We're going to mount the throttle, mixture and prop control on an angle
under the instrument panel and will not be using the upright "U" channel in
his installation. We put the Gretz electric elevator trim on and will
return the long trim cable to Van's. I like the Gretz installation & kind
of wish I had one. Of course, it would be easy to retrofit. I prefer this
method to the servo being mounted in the elevator.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I am looking over the plans for the fuel selector mount and center
>console. The fuel selector mount overlaps and secures to he forward
>seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward seat skins
>be removed at inspection time? The only thing I can see as an option is
>to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel selector
>mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed.
>However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone shed
>some light on this for me?
>
>Thank you,
>-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
Does anyone have the particulars on an in-flight fire in someone's (Vern
Dahlman's?) Rocket on New Year's Day?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6A elevator horn rivets |
Tom,
I just riveted my elevator WD-605 horns to the skeletons yesterday, and here
is what seemed right to me:
I put a total of (6) 1/8" rivets in each face of each WD-605, except I added
one on the centerline to fill a hole drilled to help line it up with the
centerline of the spar, per someone else's suggestion. This is in addition
to the (2) flush 3/32" rivets near the center of the flange on the E-609 (or
E-605 for the left elevator) that hold it to the E-602 spar for assembly.
The rivets closest to the intersection for the E-609 or E605 and the E-602
spar went through the flange of the E-609/605. These were the only ones
that were difficult to do. After trying to squeeze them, then trying to
line them up on the C-frame, then trying to buck them, I found that my
no-hole squeezer yoke ($125.00 from Avery) did them just fine.
It would have been easier if none of the 1/8" rivets went through the flange
of the E-605/609 but I read it the other way. I really can't see that it
would make any difference either way.
Terry Watson
RV-8A
Wings coming!
>
>I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the
>E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the
>center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605
>flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all.
>The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which
>places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those
>first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609
>flange?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 3:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake
>
>Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
>relatively good drill press and band saw? The recent Sears ads showed a
$300
>bench top band saw that had blade speed adjustable by dial, and the cutting
>speeds went down low enough to be good for aluminum. Are there any drill
>presses available without those stupid belts? Recommendations for a brake,
>maybe 12 inches or so?
>
>thanks
>
>Ed Wischmeyer
I don't claim to "really know" power tools but I do have a Sears band saw,
appearently similar to the one you mention. I"m satisfied with it - I'm
currently finishing the wings on me 6A and have used it several times to
make parts. I believe the quality of the work relates more to the nut that
holds the work than to the tool but better tools do help. I guess this is a
cautious recommendation for the Sears saw.
Larry McKee
finishing wings - 6A
eschew obfuscation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
Dane Sheahen wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing
> Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly
> appreciated
>
> Dane RV8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847.
ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is
805-933-8225
tracy saylor
Dane Sheahen wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing
> Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly
> appreciated
>
> Dane RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets |
I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response,
but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator
horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q right elevator
Issaquah, WA
>tom sargent wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm trying to figure out how many rivets go thru the flange of the
>> E-609/E-605 into the E602 spar, that is, aside from the 2 placed near the
>> center line of the spar. Drawing 4pp shows 4 rivets in the E-609 or E-605
>> flange although the text indicates only 2. Drawing 5PP shows none at all.
>> The 5PP elevator horn drawings show a position for the inboard rivets which
>> places them just even with the edge of the e-609 flange. So, are those
>> first 2 rivets in the elevator horn supposed to hit or miss the E-605/E-609
>> flange?
>>
>> ---
>> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>>
>Tom,
>
>I responded to your previous question about using cherry-max rivets and
>addressed this situation. If I understood your previous post correctly,
>you were questioning using the CM rivets to attach the E609 & E605 to
>the spar. I bent the ribs out to where a squeezer could reach and then
>bent them back to the correct angle. When I was at the same point, I
>contacted Van's and asked them how many rivets hold these ribs to the
>spar and did the rivets in the Wd405 elevator bracket go through the 609
>& 605 flanges. Van's answer was to use two 3/32" flush rivets to attach
>each rib and none of the Wd405 rivets go through the rib flange. All
>the strength is gained from the Wd405 attaching to the spar and rib
>webs. On 5pp, the rivet hole spacing is shown for the Wd405. You are
>correct, the innermost rivet holes will hit the end of the flange if you
>use the 3/4" dimension. So, I moved those holes out about another 1/8".
>
>Hope this helps.
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond ok -6a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
Dane Sheahen wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket Wing
> Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would greatly
> appreciated
>
> Dane RV8a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: MT and Hoffman props |
"Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
>
> I was recently given a 150 hr. 2 blade MT Prop. The prop has one leading
> edge debonding and one of the blade trunion bolts failed torque testing. I
> spoke to the factory in Germany and I have to send the blades back for
> inspection and repair (if possible). The leading edge repair is no problem
> and could be repaired stateside. The trunion bolt is a factory only review
> for repair/repair.
>
> So while it was a gift it will still cost a considerable amount of money to
> ship to Germany (shipping, insurance, customs.) just to determine if the
> trunion bolt torque failure can be fixed. So add the cost of the prop plus
> the costs that you may incur if you ever have to ship the blades back to the
> factory for depot level repairs. Not to mention the down time.
>
> The more I think about it the more I think this will become an expensive
> wall mount!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Scremm(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:50 PM
> Subject: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props
>
>
> Hi listers,
> I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been here
> for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before I
> return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to
> think
> about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back
> with
> me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman
> props
> but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would
> appreciate
> any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality,
> maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or maybe
> not so useful :
) ) information. Thanks in advance.
>
> Claudio Scremin
> Scremm(at)aol.com
> RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings)
> Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
The Sears variable speed bandsaw is excellent, and cost me $208 on sale last
fall. I use a non-ferrous metal blade - 13 teeth per inch I think. Like some
other Quickbuilders, I make do with a Harbor Freight benchtop drill press -
but it works fine and was a bargain at $49!
Phil Smith
RV 8, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
Glenn,
I just finished this area. The reason that you can't find a reference on
the plans is because there are very few references on the plans. My guess
was that it was best to cut, file and drill everything so that all of it was
removable. The horizontal plate that the fuel selector mounts to (my plans
are out in the shop) is held on to its base pieces by three machine screws
on each side.
The plans (drawing 47 I think) show that the aft end of this plate has the
flanges cut away inch so that it rests on top of the forward seat skins.
It took 1 inches on mine. This is where the screws and platenuts fasten
to the top of the seat skins. I think the design intent is to use two
screws, but as you know the plans are silent about this one.
The forward end of this plate is pre-bent into a bracket onto which you
install two more platenuts for the engine control console that attaches at
its top end to the instrument panel, F-603.
At inspection time, you remove the ten screws, not to mention the other fuel
line connections, and the plate will be removable. You could also mount the
four wing bolts that hold the bracket against the spar so that they point
forward. This would allow you to remove the nuts on the wing spar bolts and
the fuel console without undoing the fuel lines. I think that is the way I
will eventually install those four wing spar bolts, but I would like the A&P
types out there on the list to tell me what they think of that idea.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----The fuel selector mount overlaps
and secures to he forward
seat skins using screws and platenuts. How can the forward
seat skins
be removed at inspection time?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Insurance for learning to fly |
Stephen J. Soule would like to recall the message, "RV-List: Insurance for
learning to fly".
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
I have ordered my terminals from AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore, 221sw
153rd.ST.,SUITE #250, Seattle,Wa. 98166
Voice206 242 2527 1 800 431 3789
Web Site http:/members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Fax 206 242 9864
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "warren wassom" <wcwdds(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Vern Dallman's Rocket accident |
Copied from Sacramento Bee Friday, Jan. 1999
PILOT, MECHANIC INJURED............ A Yolo County aerobatic pilot and his
passenger were injured whjen an experimental plane crashed on the pilot's
private landing strip. Vernon Dallman Jr.,70, of Esparto was trying to land
his Harmon Rocket II about 11:50 a.m. Thursday when the cockpit filled with
smoke, the Yolo County Sheriffs Department said. Dallman was unable to land
without breaking the landing gear and the plane was engulfed in flames. Sgt.
Tom Lopez said. Dallman, who offers annual air-safety courses at his
airstrip, was able to crawl away from the plane, but his passenger and
mechanic, Frank Schelling, 58, of Pleasant Hill, was trapped in the plane
until freed by rescue personnel. Both men were hsopitalized with burnes and
smoke inhilation.....Associated Press........
I checked the NTSB accident reports........None for January yet posted..No
specific info on cause of smoke/fire/accident but thought the paper article
might be of interest to those inquiring........
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets |
Michael J. Robbins wrote:
>
>
> I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response,
> but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator
> horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV-8Q right elevator
> Issaquah, WA
>
Mike,
On the -6a plans the horn dimensions are on 5pp on the right side of the
plan. I would be lead to believe that even though the -6 and -8 emps
are identical(except for rudder), Van's must have updated the plans on
the -8 because my horns are called Wd405 and yours are updated to
Wd605. They may have put the horn on another sheet.
Good Luck
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location |
Glenn,
I believe last months EAA shows a RV-6 with the manual flap control
mounted between the seats, just in front of the flap handle.
Mark (6a tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Had a the same problem when converting the 0360 to fuel injection my
solution was to make a spacer out of one inch aluminum stock. Cut a square
piece the correct size drilled it to pick up the bolt pattern and machined
out the centre to the same size as the air intake. Hope this helps.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Working on fuse 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Mixing West Systems 410 filler with polyester resin |
My container of West Systems 410 microlight fairing filler says not to
mix the filler with polyester or vinylester resins. The boat store where
I bought the 410 says they've mixed 410 with polysester with good
results.
I took their advice, and used the 410 mixed with polyester in the
attachment of my shimmy dampeners to the gear legs, and in fairing
my intersection fairing wet layups. It seems to work fine, but I'm
suddenly struck by worry that there's going to be some bad
consequence of this mixture. Any insight from the list?
Thanks,
Tim "worried" Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
Subject: | Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360 ( turbo |
conversion as well )
Having considered the various methods by which to get more HP under my RV8-A
cowl, I am beginning to think the easiest way may be to have a lycoming 360
hopped up. I noticed that the IO-360 that Vans carries is $28,250. I
cannot justify that increase over the 180 HP lycoming they sell ($20,000).
Therefore, I am wondering if I could get a hopped up, rebuilt 360 that
could produce around 225 HP for the $28,250 instead ( a little bit easier to
justify the increase in cost ). Anybody have any recommendations ? The
Franklin they are testing ( at 220 HP ? ) could be cool, but I will need the
engine by summer.
Scott Johnson
scottj(at)ais.net
RV6A 345RV 125TT
RV8A Fuselage under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuel valve mount. |
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> The only thing I can see as an option
> >is
> >to trim the front bend of the forward seat skins where the fuel
> >selector
> >mount is which would permit the forward seat skins to be removed.
> >However I can find any reference to this on the plans. Can anyone
> >shed
> >some light on this for me?
> >
> >Thank you,
> >-Glenn Gordon
> >
> This one of the few design items that I have always been unhappy with
> about the RV-6(A).
>
> Many builders have done as you described, and trimmed the flanges of the
> seat pan skins so that they can lay on top of the valve mount.
>
> Others have trimmed the aft flange of the fuel valve mount plate off all
> together which is acceptable also.
>
> Scott McDaniels
After having removed the seat floor several times over the last two years,
yesterday I finally sawed off that vertical flange on the right side and voila,
it is now only a 30 minute job to install. It also relieves a lot of scraping
and grunting. Like everything else, I have found the need to look at things a
lot more than I thought I would. Needless to say, nothing was amiss, but I
just wasn't happy (and you won't be either) until I checked to see if that
slight play in the pitch axis was a loose bolt or jam nut somewhere.
D LW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nanheath1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/02/99 |
I have asked numberous times that my name be unsubscribed from this list.
Please do so. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I was looking through my RV photo collection to get an idea about how folks
are plumbing the brake lines and fuel lines on a 6-A (I think I have to buy
more tubing!!!) when I ran into a picture of the instrument panel for N514J
taken at a Van's flyin. It shows a line of switches (master, lights and
ess. bus) which is attached to a pull out tray which has the Bob N. style
Bussman fuse block in it. This looks like a very neat installation. Does
anyone know who owns it? I would like to talk to them about it.
Ross Mickey
Getting twisted in tubing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: N514J Wiring |
I searched out my own answer. This plane is owned by John Marples of St.
Augustine, FL. Does anyone know the plane or person?
Ross Mickey
Getting twisted in tubing....still
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / |
From: | Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Scott, another possibility I might recommend is what I have done. I
bought a low time IO360 removed from a Mooney by the Mod Shop in Florida.
(they offer engines for sale in TAP often) I then had the engine rebuilt
at Ly-CON here in Michigan using high compression helicopter pistons. By
using very light accessories (electric ignition, lightweight alternator
and starter, wood prop, no vacuum system and Vetterman crossover exhaust)
I end up with a package with approximately 226 hp (according to Larry
Vetterman who has dyno-tested this configuration). I think my total cost
for this engine with accessories is about $20,000. My engine weight
including prop and extension is 324 lbs. -- actually about 30 lbs.
lighter than my friends IO320 and constant speed prop installation.
Standard disclaimer: your mileage may vary, etc.
Paul Lein, RV 6A, flying in '99!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit |
Wow,
You mean we can pull 9Gs, go 1.7mach, shoot a 20mm cannon and drop lots
of bombs?!!! Sign me up! (Sorry, just jesting, but having flown both the
Harmon Rocket and the F-16 I would say the Rocket is EXTREMELY impressive
and fun, but not quite F-16 performance).
Marcus
RV-6 and having fun.
>Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please
call
>me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com.
>
>Scott Brown
>Florida RV-Ation
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket II Fast Build kit |
In a message dated 1/3/99 2:13:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mcooper(at)cnetech.com writes:
<< Wow,
You mean we can pull 9Gs, go 1.7mach, shoot a 20mm cannon and drop lots
of bombs?!!! Sign me up! (Sorry, just jesting, but having flown both the
Harmon Rocket and the F-16 I would say the Rocket is EXTREMELY impressive
and fun, but not quite F-16 performance).
Marcus
RV-6 and having fun.
>Get F16 performance at a home-built price! For more information, please
call
>me at 561-748-2429 or email me at FLARV8N(at)aol.com.
>
>Scott Brown
>Florida RV-Ation >>
Hahaha, You are funny....the term came from a bunch of f16 fighter pilots that
I know that flew the rocket and they said that the rocket was the closest kit
build airplane to the f16 they had ever flown. Take it and run...
Hope to see you in a rocket soon,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: MT and Hoffman props |
Any clue as to why I'm getting messages that seemed to be messages from the
list that are posted back to the list with no modifications or additional
comments?
Doug Hormann
empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props
>
>
>"Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
>
>>
>> I was recently given a 150 hr. 2 blade MT Prop. The prop has one leading
>> edge debonding and one of the blade trunion bolts failed torque testing.
I
>> spoke to the factory in Germany and I have to send the blades back for
>> inspection and repair (if possible). The leading edge repair is no
problem
>> and could be repaired stateside. The trunion bolt is a factory only
review
>> for repair/repair.
>>
>> So while it was a gift it will still cost a considerable amount of money
to
>> ship to Germany (shipping, insurance, customs.) just to determine if the
>> trunion bolt torque failure can be fixed. So add the cost of the prop
plus
>> the costs that you may incur if you ever have to ship the blades back to
the
>> factory for depot level repairs. Not to mention the down time.
>>
>> The more I think about it the more I think this will become an expensive
>> wall mount!
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Scremm(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 1:50 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: MT and Hoffman props
>>
>>
>> Hi listers,
>> I am a displaced RV8A builder currently living in Germany. I've been
here
>> for five months and will be here for three or four months for work before
I
>> return to my project in Maine. Needless to say I have a lot of time to
>> think
>> about my plane. Particularly in relation to what goodies I can bring back
>> with
>> me from Deutschland. I have looked on the list regarding MT and Hoffman
>> props
>> but I haven't come up with much. Being a neophyte builder I would
>> appreciate
>> any information that anyone out there would have for me as to quality,
>> maintenance and overhaul costs, reliability, and any other useful (or
maybe
>> not so useful :
) ) information. Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Claudio Scremin
>> Scremm(at)aol.com
>> RV8A #80304 (1/2 through wings)
>> Eliot, ME (Currently in Hannover)
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last year
and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been wondering what
the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR rules
apply. Mostly we don't find much. The tower told us that the second plane
should reply on the radio. If someone knows some of these things I would
appreciate hearing from you. We have actually had the controller announce
us as a flight of two when we had attempted to land separately (thinking
that at the time it would make things simpler).
It seems that landing is the hardest part. I assume that you should agree
ahead of time on altitudes and speeds for each leg of the pattern and that
the forward plane takes the inside turns of the base and final, and lands
purposely long. What do you do if you take different exits? Are you still
flight of two on ground freq? We're trying just to make the work load
easier on the controller (and depart more quickly). Respond to me off-list
please, I'm not currently subscribed. kevin RV6A N3773 (320hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location |
Warren,
I like your electric trim retrofit kit and although I will stay with my
manual option for now I am considering later in the project fitting the
electric as per your design. I do have one question.
In order to install your electric conversion kit do you supply a new
trim tab horn or does the trim motor recommended have a longer stroke
than that used in the factory electric trim installation?
I ask this since the plans indicate a somewhat shorter horn on the tab
for electric trim option. I am concerned that there would be
insufficient trim travel if the standard manual trim horn was to be
used.
Doug Gray
RV-6 Flaps
>
> Glenn if you or any other person that reads this would like a flyer I have on
> one of my products that will give you a very good elevator trim alternative.
It
> is both manual and electric.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Christensen" <peterchristensen(at)serviceresourcesinc.com> |
Subject: | Re: right elevator E-609 |
My plan for these rivets was to use a "no-hole" squeezer yoke from Avery,
as recommended by George Orndorff. It looks like there should be enough
room for this squeezer, although I am interested if anyone has had any
experience to the contrary. By the way, I've done just about everything I
can do on my elevators and rudders until I get that yoke (the 4" version so
I can squeeze the rivets on the spar as well) from Avery, it has been on
back order for about three weeks.
My elevator parts seem to be lining up nicely so far, but I don't seem to
be able to buck or squeeze the two 1/8" rivets that hold the E-609 rib to
the E-602 spar. There just isn't room for the squeezer and I don't have any
bucking bar that will fit in there. Rather than risk gashing it up trying,
do you think a Cherrymax flat head rivet is acceptable here? I have a few
of the right size.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
Subject: | Re: flight of two |
I woulds like to see a reply to this, too. I am a little shaky on some of the
"flight of two" rules. The controller usually asks the non talking plane to turn
off it's transponder.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight of two |
Kevin:
Get some training. The CAF or Laison Pilots association have classes.
I have been to the Laison Pilots course. Another place to get some
info would be to purchase the T-34 Formation Flying book from EAA.
This book is included with the Formation Flying:"The Art" video tape
from Sporty's Pilot Shop. Order number M632A. About $70 US. The
local CAF (Riverside, CAlifornia) have classes several times a year.
>
> My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last
year
> and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been
wondering what
> the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR
rules
> apply.
---------- snip -----------
Respond to me off-list
> please, I'm not currently subscribed. kevin RV6A N3773 (320hrs)
=
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: flight of two |
<< I woulds like to see a reply to this, too. I am a little shaky on some of
the "flight of two" rules. The controller usually asks the non talking plane
to turn off it's transponder. >>
I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2. Never had a
problem- we even shot a localizer approach as a flight! #2 should turn the TXP
off, that is true. It will take some practice to follow lead thru all the
necessary freq changes- simply announce the freq change to the flight, change,
and check in afterwards. It is a good idea to have a freq to go to if the freq
change gets messed up, to get things straightened out.
#2 usually listens only. I suppose some controllers might want to hear from
#2, but I have not found this to be SOP.
If any Black Jack members are on the list, I'd trust their opinions. "Rosy"
(Got a Problem with Pink?) Doug probably has some good input also.
Check six!
Mark
Red Flight, #2
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: gold coast race rv4 and pitts |
guys,
i was at sebastian / melbourne fl. this weekend and saw what appeared to be a
balls to the walls race between a pitts and a rv 4 , what an awsome sight,
looks like the 4 was leaving him behind around 200 mph i would quess. 200 ft
above the ground, anyone knows who this might be?
scott
left winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight of two |
>
>My hangermate and I have been flying together quite a bit this last year
>and have been often leaving as flight of two. We have been wondering what
>the best procedures are, what is radio protocol, and what ARM/FAR rules
>apply. Mostly we don't find much.
Flying formation "well" is one of the most rewarding things you can do in
aviation. If you seek to do this, PLEASE get some formation training! You
will not get this at the local FBO. Find a warbird type who is formation
qualified by F.A.S.T. and ask them to help you or direct you to some one who
can.
To answer your question, when in formation the only thing that the wingman
should ever say on the radio is, "two" before and after frequency changes
and "lead is on fire!"
To ATC you should be one airplane. #2 does not talk or squawk. I have a
list of all CAF formation pilots and could provide you a contact to start
your search locally if you e-mail me off-line.
The EAA has the T-34 book which is the standard for low-wing formation now.
Get it and read it then get some help. It won't require much time and it is
really rewarding when done correctly. It is deadly when it is not.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges |
> I think this is one of those cases where you don't follow the plans.
> It won't hurt anything if the centerline of the hinge is 1/16" or even
> 1/8" farther forward than indicated in the plans. Simply allow the
> cowling to extend slightly farther aft than the centerline of the
> hinge.
This situation is actually preferable. The cowling will be easier to
remove if the hinge centerline is slightly on the cowling side. If it is
not, you have to pull the cowling slightly forward for the hinge eyelets to
clear the aluminum edge. This is difficult on the top because the
horizontal hinges between the two halves prevent it from going forward.
Ask me how I know.
Scott Sawby
RV6A 341SS 110 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
I heard they were planning to flight demo the new engine at Oshkosh this
July. Lycoming has a similar project underway with Detroit Deisel. I
don't know what their timetable is.
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sun Jan 3 19:36:14 1999
> by matronics.com (8.8.8/Matronics-1.2) id TAA18184
>Message-ID: <36903698.AF8FD84A(at)home.com>
>Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:33:44 -0600
>From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
>X-Accept-Language: en
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: new engine design
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Has anyone heard whether the new engine which NASA and TCM
>are developing will likely be available to the RV's? I
>asked Van's about it a while back and got to reply. For
>those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel,
>200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. It's
>supposed to be on the market in 2000. I notice the dry
>weight of the new engine is 300lbs. How does that compare
>to a Lycoming 360? The engine sure looks pretty spiffy. It
>would kind of bug me to spend 20K on a Lycoming when I could
>possibly buy and maintain this new thing for less. You can
>take a look at it here:
>http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/WWW/AST/GAP/ . Any info would be
>appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-8 Airbox Solved! |
For those of you building RV-8's with 0-360's, you will need to cut the
neck of the fiberglass airbox itself on the sides and then use a heat gun
to bend down about 1". You would then fiberglass over the cut. The top
plate stays flat. Vans(at least Tom) is unaware of this, and it is not
in the instructions. I contacted a builder who has this engine/AC combo,
and have done it on mine. Works great. You could also make a 1" aluminum
plate as a spacer between the carb and the mount plate, but this would be
much more work, as well as weight.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption |
>I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2. Never had a
>problem- we even shot a localizer approach as a flight! #2 should turn the TXP
>Check six!
>Mark
>Red Flight, #2
Mark, since you have good comparble data (same distance, same altitude
etc), could you give us some data of fuel consumption? What engine/ prop
combination of the planes or are they EXACTLY identical?
Is it true, that the fixed pitch prop is in CRUISE as efficient at the C/S
prop? Many on the List sure would appreciate your data on this subject.
Thanks, Lothar
Lothar ||-6A||Lakewood/ Denver, CO ||skinning fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Donald Farrand <dotndon(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | sample of a bill of sale? |
A fellow RV builder said this address might be a source of information
for me with regard to a sample of the wording needed to give some
assurance of a "release of liability" for me in the event of selling my
RV4 airplane. Any help? Thanks.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: flight of two or more |
Have flown with my buddies as a flight of 4 for the past few years now (we're
havin' way too much fun!) in our RV's. I would guess that we have flown
together for over 100 hours. Here are the rules we live by:
Rule 1: # 1 talks and squawks
Rule 2: everybody else shut-up, listen and watch your wingman
If one of the pilots in the flight needs to talk to the group for some reason
we request a temporary frequency change and #1 lets the controller know when
we're back.
We fly in and out of the pattern as two groups of two in the "flight of four."
So we take off and land in pairs.
We always breif before a flight. After you learn the techniques required for
formation flight you should practice formation flight often.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
Subject: | Re: Finding Information |
>--------------
>I am not sure how this whole thing works, but I'm trying to find help
>for a "release of Liability" as I have plans to sell my RV4 and my wife
>is quite concerned (as am I) as to how we assure the buyer he is buying
>"as is" on an amateur build aircraft. I'm sure the subject has been
>discussed and I have tried to send the request a couple different ways
>on advice of friends who say "You (Matronics) are the best source". I
>have "subscribed" and await response and/or direction.
>
>a barely literate computer rookie...Don
>--------------
Hi Don,
You have a couple of options to find some answers to your questions. First,
I'd recommend that you use your web browser and try out the RV-List Archive
Search Engine! Go to the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/search
The web page will allow you to search through all of the 10 years of postings
to the RV-List. On the search web page, select the RV-List Archive (there are
two other Lists here - the Kolb and Zenith - and you might try searching
these List Archives as well) and put in the search string "liability & sale"
without the double quotes. Click on 'Begin Search'. This should return an
index of about 92 previous RV-List posts that contains the above words. You
then click on the indexed Subjects which will return that message for you to
read. You can also modify the search words to widen or narrow the search as
required. The main Search web page has detailed instuctions on how to use
the Search Engine.
If you can't find exactly what you're looking for using the search engine,
simply send an email message to "rv-list(at)matronics.com" requesting the
specific information you are looking for. Your message will be redistribued
to all of the RV-List members.
Good luck,
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firesleeve Clamps |
Larry Pardue wrote:
> --Does anyone know how to work the stainless steel firesleeve clamps? There
> is no mention anywhere I can find that a special tool is required but I
> can't get them to budge one way or the other, using things like pliers and
> vises.
> Larry, sorry for the late response, but the holidays had me on the road. The
> tool you'll need is aviliable from Napa Auto Parts. Its used for securing the
> rubber boots on constant velocity joints. Its made by K-D Tools and is part
> number 3191. Good luck. Chuck Brietigam, RV-3 flying (well, not during this
> crazy winter storm!!)
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert B. Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Subject: | sample of a bill of sale? |
I have a sample bill of sale, and a release document for passengers and
guest pilots of your experimental aircraft, and maybe another form that may
be helpful. I will try to find them and see if I can send them to Matt at
Matronics(?), or re-create them (retype)and include them in a future message
for access by you and others in the archives. Let me know if there is other
interest in this subject, several good and relevant issues were discussed in
a thread earlier this year about liability and revoking the airworthiness
certificates on a "already-flying aircraft" that may help you out.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (spar mods, spar mods!)
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644/5716
Rob Reece
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716
(505) 835-5299 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Farrand
> Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 2:13 AM
> To: rvlist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: sample of a bill of sale?
>
>
> A fellow RV builder said this address might be a source of information
> for me with regard to a sample of the wording needed to give some
> assurance of a "release of liability" for me in the event of selling my
> RV4 airplane. Any help? Thanks.
> Don
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
Subject: | Tie Down Bracket (-6) |
Greetings, friends, and Happy New Year.
Over the holidays I got my wing spars to the point of ready to rivet, Tech
Advisor gave them a clean bill of health yesterday.
We did, however, puzzle some over the tie down and where the holes went.
He did not remember the details of his -6 wings (now flying).
Archives have nothing useful which means it must be pretty simple and
I'm overlooking something, if the question hasn't been asked before.
The drawings (#20) show the tie down bar attaching to the stiffener and
to the spar web, with the two predrilled holes toward the web and one toward
the stiffener. Specifically, the top hole seems to be in the top spar
flange as well - but there is no hole right next to the one at 78 1/2
(I think) which holds the top of the stiffener. I am loath to drill
another hole in the spar flange, and none of my resources indicate this
is necessary (Frank's notes, Will's notes, the Bunny's guide, or even
(last resort) _The Manual_).
What I see in the drawing is the bottom hole into the spar web, a
perpendicular hole into the stiffener, and then at the top a hole
through the spar web and top spar flange. Is this correct?
I also checked out web sites for pictures of this area, but no one
has deemed it worthy of space. What am I missing?
Thanks!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 140RV (Reserved)
Wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
Subject: | counterbalance arm |
Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between
the counterbalance arm and the elevator without repacing the
U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out
there?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
Subject: | Re: flight of two |
> If any Black Jack members are on the list, I'd trust their opinions. "Rosy"
> (Got a Problem with Pink?) Doug probably has some good input also.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
> Red Flight, #2
I don't know if any of the other Blackjacks are lurking on the list, so
I guess I'll jump in, although I'm relatively inexperienced.
Lead is the pilot for the entire formation. He sqawks for the
formation, navigates, communicates, the whole ball of wax. The
wingman's job is to follow leads instructions, usually given with
signals. The formation is handled as a single entity from start up to
shut down. The Blackjacks routinely check in on all frequency changes,
although we tend to avoid it on busy tower frequencies.
I haven't heard a controller communicate with anyone but the lead. If a
controller is trying to talk with wingmen, then I suspect that the
formation isn't behaving like a formation!
Gary and Doug are absolutely right to recommend competent training. The
T34 Association manual is used by the Blackjacks for groundschool. It
is the defacto standard. Once you get past the basic formation
airmanship, IMHO the formation's communication techniques should be down
solid before you enter controlled airspace. In my very limited
experience, things get dangerous usually from miscommunication within
the flight, not by bad basic airmanship. Discipline and attention to
detail pay off. When you enter controlled airspace, your job is to make
things easier and safer for everybody including the controller.
While I'm typing, I'm going to get off the subject a little. I love
formation flying and I encourage everybody to learn more about it. I've
seen many airplanes depart Arlington in flights of two recently. It's
tough to find good training outside of the warbird community and I
sympathized with those who can't find mentors. If you choose to try
this without training, at least think about wake turbulence and winds.
Two of the four flights I saw one recent day (all non RV's) took off
with the lead plane on the upwind side of the runway and his #2 about
10-14 ship lengths behind on the downwind side. That's asking to get
hurt.
One of lead's many jobs is to use the downwind side of the runway when
taking off and landing.
Mark
RV-4 owner
AWO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
> Recommendations for a brake, maybe 12 inches or so?
ATS has small benchtop "hobbyist's" bending brakes. Not fancy but
at $20-50, they're a whole lot cheaper than a "real" brake, and
they do ok bends for simple stuff.
ATSs number is 1-800-248-0638.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption |
<< I have travelled coast to coast (and to the Bahamas) as #2.
snip
Mark, since you have good comparble data (same distance, same altitude
etc), could you give us some data of fuel consumption? What engine/ prop
combination of the planes or are they EXACTLY identical?
Is it true, that the fixed pitch prop is in CRUISE as efficient at the C/S
prop? Many on the List sure would appreciate your data on this subject.
Thanks, Lothar
>>
Well, here goes, Lothar!
I fly a Rocket (with the 540 Lyc), lead is a -6. I'd call that a mis-match!
On a trip to Copperstate, Sedona, and other sightseeing stuff, My Rocket used
very close to exactly the same fuel as the 150HP FP RV-6 flying lead. I even
took on 1 gal less at one stop! Not what any of us had predicted or expected.
I usually ran about 2000RPM and 18.5-19" MP. Of course, at stops, lead could
buy MOGAS, where I was restricted to 100LL.
The trip to the Bahamas was different- we were in the -4 (160 HP, FP), lead
was the same ship (-6), but before his overhaul. I usually burned a bit more
than lead with that ship. Again, not what we expected.
Lead is buying an Aymar-Demuth prop, so this might shake things up a bit.
He'll be able to run the power up a bit more, as those props are a bit more
efficient than the current unit being used. More info is on the horizon!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A shoulder harness cable question |
> OK, I give up. Where on the plans does it call out the means of attaching
> the steel cable to the shoulder harness bracket back there in the tail cone?
> I would expect to use a Clevis bolt in an application like that. The kit
> came with four AN 23-11's but they look like they are supposed to go in the
> rudder cable shackles up front at the rudder pedals. Do I use an AN bolt?
> If so, it has to be a drilled bolt, right?
I can't give you a definite answer but I haven't seen any other
responses to this so I'll try.... I remember looking for this and not
finding it either. There was a bag of "seat belt hardware" that had the
bolts in it, which included other bolts, but after attaching all the
other seat belt hardware it became obvious via the process of
elimination. I assume you don't still have the bolts in the bags but if
you still have the bag call-out you can see which bolts were supposed to
be in that bag. I'm pretty sure they were standard hex head bolts,
drilled for a castle nut.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges |
I used a band saw to cut it down to about 5/8 and then a file to clean it up.
The shim is needed because the standard cowl is thicker than the skin and firewall
combo. The new S type cowl doesn't use the shim. I think that you need
to cut it if you need it.
Brian Eckstein
6A seat bottom skins
----------
>
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6 Cowling mount hinges
> REF: DWG 31, Sec E-E
>
> The plans list a dimension of 11/16" from the front of the firewall to
> the centerline of the hinges. The supplied hinge I have here has a
> edge to hinge center distance of 3/4". What is the easiest way to trim
> 1/16" off of the hinge accurately.
>
> Also, the hinge mounts on a .032" x 1/2" shim strip. Is this supplied
> with the kit?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Cutouts |
> Do I need to use an Instrument hole punch or can I simply use the fly
> cutter, hole saw, etc. for holes in the instrument panel? Also, the punch
> I see in avery's only cuts 2 1/4 or 3 1/8 and some of my guages (ie: fuel
> guages from Van's) are 2 1/16, not a standard size.
I used a fly cutter. Worked fine, just make sure the bit is sharp, and
orient it so the beveled edge is on the inside of course. From what I
have heard the punch can deform the metal, but I don't know this from
experience.
I do strongly recommend getting a hole template for the screw holes.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
Don't ignore the flow arrows. The bottom fittings are check valves.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 1999 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve
Questions:
1) Can one ignore the "Flow" arrow on the valve? There is no flow in this
application.
2) It seems as though lever parallel to short face is OFF (can blow thru
valve) and rotation of 45 degrees or more to either side is ON (brake
pressure maintained) -- is this true?
Dennis Persyk finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
>To: Jim Cimino ;
>Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 12:46 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Valve
>
>
>On 30 Dec 98, at 13:45, Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>> I just purchased a parking brake valve from Van's for my -8, it does not
>> have any instructions and the plans do not include it. Where is the best
>> place to mount it and how does it get plumbed in. I assume that it must
>> be in the pressure lines.
>
>I put mine between the pilot master cylinders and the brakes. Seems
>to work fine.
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
How much are the tips and the light kit?
----- Original Message -----
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips
The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847.
ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is
805-933-8225
tracy saylor
Dane Sheahen wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there know where one would buy a pair of Harmon Rocket
Wing
> Tips. Who makes them? Phone number? Web Sight? any help would
greatly
> appreciated
>
> Dane RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
> ATS has small benchtop "hobbyist's" bending brakes. Not fancy but
> at $20-50, they're a whole lot cheaper than a "real" brake, and
> they do ok bends for simple stuff.
>
> ATSs number is 1-800-248-0638.
I wanted to add to the above post: this brake is NOT the same as the one
Spruce sells. The Spruce one is made from aluminum and IMHO is
not worth much. The ATS one is steel.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
In a message dated 1/3/99 7:31:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
c_gray(at)bellsouth.net writes:
<< I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III
-- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >>
Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I
was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use
the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of
equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane.
Just something to think about, maybe.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
In a message dated 1/3/99 7:52:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
adrianchick(at)home.com writes:
<< For
those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel,
200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. >>
There is also a company called Deltahawk that is currently testing a diesel
engine in the same HP range, with a detuned version planned for those who do
not want that many ponies. I believe that the engine that they are now
testing is being considered a source of power for Velocity aircraft. They are
also planning an engine with a different profile that would be more suitable
to an RV. I believe that www.deltahawk.com will take you there.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
Try http://www.deltahawkengines.com/oshkosh1.html instead.
. I believe that www.deltahawk.com will take you there.
>Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: flight of two/engine-gas consumption |
Our observation in many hours of flying RV's side by side for long distances
(seven trips from Fort Worth to Van's Homecoming has been as follows:
A RV6 flown at a given speed will burn about the same amount of fuel
regardless of engine size or prop type. The only exception is a 150HP
0-320. Due to it's lower compression ratio it's fuel burn wil be slightly
higher. We were amazed to discover that a 0-360 will burn the same as a
0-320. Constant speed prop seems to make no
measurable difference either. I guess it takes a given amount of energy to
move an RV at a certain speed.
Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM 1,300hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Cell phone use in aircraft |
This was Monday's AVweb news concerning cell phone use in aircraft.
This is to enhance recent questions on the topic that appeared on the
list.
FCC APROVES CELL PHONE SYSTEM FOR AIRCRAFT USE...
Last week's decision by the FCC allowing airborne cellular phone use
depends on a system developed by wireless phone carrier AirCell Inc. of
Louisville, Colo. The FCC previously banned cellular phones on
airplanes, citing interference issues. Instead, the AirCell system
claims to circumvent the interference issue by hiding the air-to-ground
signal from conventional ground-based cell sites.
...BUT CONTINUES BAN ON CONVENTIONAL CELL PHONES
Sorry, but you still wont be able to use the new cell phone you
received for Christmas while flying. Checking the specifics at
AirCell's Web site <http://www.aircell.com> reveals that the
FCC-approved system will only work with ground sites equipped with the
company's specialized antennas and with phones manufactured and
distributed by AirCell. Further, the system requires two phones, one
for use when the aircraft is on the ground and one for use when the
aircraft is airborne above 5,000 feet AGL.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tie Down Bracket (-6) |
MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
>
> Greetings, friends, and Happy New Year.
>
> Over the holidays I got my wing spars to the point of ready to rivet, Tech
> Advisor gave them a clean bill of health yesterday.
>
> We did, however, puzzle some over the tie down and where the holes went.
> He did not remember the details of his -6 wings (now flying).
>
> Archives have nothing useful which means it must be pretty simple and
> I'm overlooking something, if the question hasn't been asked before.
>
> The drawings (#20) show the tie down bar attaching to the stiffener and
> to the spar web, with the two predrilled holes toward the web and one toward
> the stiffener. Specifically, the top hole seems to be in the top spar
> flange as well - but there is no hole right next to the one at 78 1/2
> (I think) which holds the top of the stiffener. I am loath to drill
> another hole in the spar flange, and none of my resources indicate this
> is necessary (Frank's notes, Will's notes, the Bunny's guide, or even
> (last resort) _The Manual_).
>
> What I see in the drawing is the bottom hole into the spar web, a
> perpendicular hole into the stiffener, and then at the top a hole
> through the spar web and top spar flange. Is this correct?
>
> I also checked out web sites for pictures of this area, but no one
> has deemed it worthy of space. What am I missing?
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 140RV (Reserved)
> Wing spars
>
Mike,
You are seeing the picture correctly. You have learned your lessons
well on the Emp.. You may feel like a "loath" asking questions about
things that appear obvious, but it is acutally called "smart building".
The hole in the top of the bracket must be drilled through the spar
flanges. The thing to watch out for when drilling the bracket is the
hole that attaches the bracket to the angle. If it's too low, the bolt
head will be too close to the bend in the angle and the bolt head will
have to be ground.
Good luck on the building the spar. I used the Avery C-frame and a 3
lb. short handle sledge and it was a piece of cake.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: counterbalance arm |
Adrian Chick wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between
> the counterbalance arm and the elevator without repacing the
> U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out
> there?
>
Adrian,
I looked in the plans/manual for the dimension between the U-shapped
cover and the elevator and didn't find it. I'm waiting to fit the
elevator/stabilizer later. If the widest gap is not too great, I would
trim the U-shapped cover to make the gap even for it's entire length.
You may be able to also trim the elevator too if rivet edge-distance is
not comprimised. Triming both would help trick the eye to make it look
straighter.
Anybody know what the gap dimension is supposed to be??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A shoulder harness cable question |
Randall is correct, the bolts were in a bag that came with the fuselage kit.
Bag is identified as part of seat belts.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage (Finishing kit in basement)
Ercoupe 415-D N2051H
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
updated 01/03/99
>
> I can't give you a definite answer but I haven't seen any other
> responses to this so I'll try.... I remember looking for this and not
> finding it either. There was a bag of "seat belt hardware" that had the
> bolts in it, which included other bolts, but after attaching all the
> other seat belt hardware it became obvious via the process of
> elimination. I assume you don't still have the bolts in the bags but if
> you still have the bag call-out you can see which bolts were supposed to
> be in that bag. I'm pretty sure they were standard hex head bolts,
> drilled for a castle nut.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
> randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6 Cowling Hinges |
Glenn, my fuse kit is about a year old now. The shim stock is supplied and
is 1/2" wide. I suppose if you trim the hinge material down, then you will
also have to trim this 1/2" stock down too.
Tom -6 finishing kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 6:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-6 Cowling Hinges
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: RV-6 Cowling mount hinges
>REF: DWG 31, Sec E-E
>
>The plans list a dimension of 11/16" from the front of the firewall to
>the centerline of the hinges. The supplied hinge I have here has a
>edge to hinge center distance of 3/4". What is the easiest way to trim
>1/16" off of the hinge accurately.
>
>Also, the hinge mounts on a .032" x 1/2" shim strip. Is this supplied
>with the kit?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery |
>>My electrical guru does not approve of using the aircraft
>>as ground. When you think about it, it does not make
>>much sense what we are doing. On one hand, we are using
>>zinc epoxy chromate to prevent an electrical connection between
>>two different metal parts - galvanic corrosion is simply electrical flow
>>between two parts one being sacrificed to the other, and, then on the other
>>hand, we want to induce a high flow of electrical flow particularily during
>>start up to go thru a large portion of your airframe from firewall to
>>tailcone.
>>
>>We can get away with it for a while without noticeable damage,
>>but what will it look like down the road? Are we willing to
>>take chances with our labours of love?
Production aircraft have been using airframe grounds
since the first batteries, starters and generators
were bolted on. . . even today, airplanes like the
Lear, Beechjet and Hawker use airframe ground for LOTS
of stuff . . . some of it VERY heavy current.
A few years ago, there was a story circulating around
about the hazards of airframe grounds that cited
empanages falling off off Pipers due to electrically
induced corrosion. Never could identify the source
or deduce any explanation based on the physics of the
matter.
There ARE cautions about heavy current grounds . . . you
don't want to carry cranking currents in thin sheet metal
used for a battery ground . . . but the hazard is local
and limited to the undersized material. Single point
grounding behind the panel is equally important to control
noise and the potential for degraded instrument performance.
It's also important NOT to use the engine mount for any
electrical duties . . . ground the crankcase to the
firewall with a nice flexible bond strap.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: alternator/regulator wiring |
>I have recently started having an electrical problem - within a few
>(5-15) seconds after turning alternator switch on, the voltage slowly
>rises to 16+ volts (at which point I turn alternator switch off to avoid
>frying battery & avionics). I would just conclude the regulator has
>gone bad, but I first noticed this after I had repaired (perhaps
>incorectly?) a broken ground wire on the regulator. The regulator has
>five wires, rather than the three I expected: Red->alternator switch on
>panel, Green->"F" terminal on alternator, Yellow->"N" terminal on
>alternator, Orange->taped off/no connection, Black->ground(this is the
>wire I (re?)attached to ground when I found it broken). Voltage
>regulator is labeled "TRANSPO F7078".
>Anyone familiar with this regulator & know if it is wired correctly?
Runaway voltage, particularly the creepy kind you describe
is invariably the voltage regulator. The broken wire may
have toasted its innards in some way. I'd replace it.
You might consider an automotive aftermarket replacment for
a 1980s Ford regulator. Standard Autoparts p/n VR166 is one
good choice. It's all solid state and sells for $10 to $15
in auto parts stores. However, this, like ANY regulator
should be teamed with overvoltage protection . . . if you
don't have ov protection, you were very lucky to have noticed
the failure before it lunched your electo-goodies.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-6A (and RV-8) elevator horn rivets |
Somewhere on my web page, probably in the elevators section, there is a
picture of my elevator horn, with all the holes drilled and the measurements
marked right on them, clear enough to see. The measurements worked great for
me, they left enough room to squeeze all rivets, and adhered to edge
distance and spacing requirements. If you need more help, just email me.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
>
>I'm at this exact same point on my -8, and I understand Jerry's response,
>but I can't find any dimensions for the hole patterns in the Wd605 elevator
>horns, at least on the -8 drawings. They must have hidden them somewhere.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV-8Q right elevator
>Issaquah, WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360 |
( turbo conversion as well )
Lycon of California quoted me on a 230HP IO-360 for 25K. They are on the
internet, do a search for "Lycon". They have a great reputation.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
Subject: | Sam James wheelpants |
Listers,
Just got my pressure-recovery wheelpants from Sam James and fitted them
tonight. I think "low riders" would be a better name for them. With the
trailing edge set at the recommended 1 " above the floor, the area just
behind the tire sits about " above the floor. This could be problematic
with grass, uneven concrete, etc. I was wondering if anyone with these
wheelpants has had problems with them scraping on the ground, or if they are
being set up higher than recommended in the instructions.
Bob Japundza
RV-6, should be flying by April
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in
the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces
are at work that are specific to the -8?
Vince
RV-8A
Starting on rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elev Trim Alternate Location |
Hello Doug and all who may be following this,
I do not supply a different control horn. Use the one that is indicated in the
plans
for the manual system. This makes my system a natural for the changing of a manual
system to a electric elevator trim, as well as a very easy to build and to install
alternative to achive an electric trim durring the building. Just use the control
horn as described in the plans for the manual system durring the building. There
is
plenty of travel to the trim tab with this type of installation.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
Doug Gray wrote:
>
> Warren,
>
> I like your electric trim retrofit kit and although I will stay with my
> manual option for now I am considering later in the project fitting the
> electric as per your design. I do have one question.
>
> In order to install your electric conversion kit do you supply a new
> trim tab horn or does the trim motor recommended have a longer stroke
> than that used in the factory electric trim installation?
>
> I ask this since the plans indicate a somewhat shorter horn on the tab
> for electric trim option. I am concerned that there would be
> insufficient trim travel if the standard manual trim horn was to be
> used.
>
> Doug Gray
> RV-6 Flaps
>
> >
> > Glenn if you or any other person that reads this would like a flyer I have
on
> > one of my products that will give you a very good elevator trim alternative.
It
> > is both manual and electric.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
None of the earlier RVs (-3, -4, nor -6) has a balanced rudder. The higher
speed of the RV-8 requires a balanced rudder to prevent rudder flutter in
its operating range.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST STILL monkeying around with the baffles
>
>Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in
>the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces
>are at work that are specific to the -8?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery |
Robert,
Don't forget that the float type fuel quantity senders
we use automatically have an airframe ground..
Can't get around this thru there design.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
I bought the 2-1/2" deep no-hole yoke from Avery, and I like it. It does
get at rivets I couldn't squeeze without it, or buck either for that matter.
But it does have a surprising amount of spring to it. Squeezing 1/8"
rivets, when you squeeze the handles of the squeezer together, it wants to
spring back a bit when you ease up because of the energy that went into
bending the yoke instead of smashing the rivet. I mention this because I
see several of you are waiting for the 4" no-hole squeezer, and someone else
told me they had experienced the same spring-back with their 4" yoke on
3/32" rivets, to the extend that it was not setting some rivets properly.
My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work for you
on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place
to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system
tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a
coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best
to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is
the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be
appreciated.
Robert Kellar
RV-6A fuselage "innards"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
Subject: | Holding flap accuator rods |
I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them by hand
while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use a rubber
clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This is a
small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies pressure
equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many golf
supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a freebie.
(Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 / IO-360 |
( turbo conversion as well )
I found AeroSport Power to be more cost effective. Granted they don't have
the high compression pistons. I waited 2 months just to get a quote from
Lycon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice on company to hop up Lycoming O-360 /
IO-360 ( turbo conversion as well )
Lycon of California quoted me on a 230HP IO-360 for 25K. They are on the
internet, do a search for "Lycon". They have a great reputation.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kenny Easton"<kenny_easton(at)sehe.com> |
Hi ,
Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator
is year 2000 compatible
Many thanks ,
K .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kique" <ecastil(at)arrakis.es> |
Hello to all:
Has anybody fitted an Ivoprop propeller in a RV6?
ecastil(at)arrakis.es
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Krasa <p.w.krasa(at)larc.nasa.gov> |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator/regulator wiring |
The regulator you have is the one Mark Landol (sp?) provides with his
regulator. There are two different wiring diagrams. Mine is wired as
such: RED to B post, GREEN to F pin through the alternator switch, YELLOW
to N pin, BLACK to grounded to alternator case, and ORANGE is not used.
Contact Mark for help with this regulator. A replacement from him is $18
including shipping.
Paul
At 18:57 1/4/99, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>I have recently started having an electrical problem - within a few
>>(5-15) seconds after turning alternator switch on, the voltage slowly
>>rises to 16+ volts (at which point I turn alternator switch off to avoid
>>frying battery & avionics). I would just conclude the regulator has
>>gone bad, but I first noticed this after I had repaired (perhaps
>>incorectly?) a broken ground wire on the regulator. The regulator has
>>five wires, rather than the three I expected: Red->alternator switch on
>>panel, Green->"F" terminal on alternator, Yellow->"N" terminal on
>>alternator, Orange->taped off/no connection, Black->ground(this is the
>>wire I (re?)attached to ground when I found it broken). Voltage
>>regulator is labeled "TRANSPO F7078".
>>Anyone familiar with this regulator & know if it is wired correctly?
>
> Runaway voltage, particularly the creepy kind you describe
> is invariably the voltage regulator. The broken wire may
> have toasted its innards in some way. I'd replace it.
> You might consider an automotive aftermarket replacment for
> a 1980s Ford regulator. Standard Autoparts p/n VR166 is one
> good choice. It's all solid state and sells for $10 to $15
> in auto parts stores. However, this, like ANY regulator
> should be teamed with overvoltage protection . . . if you
> don't have ov protection, you were very lucky to have noticed
> the failure before it lunched your electo-goodies.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < If you continue to do >
> < What you've always done >
> < You will continue to be >
> < What you've always been. >
> ================================
> <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com.by.dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com (8.8.4/8.8.4) |
Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: alternator/regulator wiring |
Recommend B & C regulator , it has overvoltage protection, and the support is great
from Bill
Bainbridge. Also its supposed to reduce radio interference.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
>
>
> My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work for you
> on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this?
>
> Terry
Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it to be too
springy and heavy to use much .
It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building process. On the
area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I built the
riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the RVator'. It took
me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and file - and
has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now lend it
around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their project. If I were
to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent my money on
something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from Tatco and
maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall.
DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Holding flap accuator rods |
Robert Kellar wrote:
> I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them by hand
> while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use a rubber
> clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This is a
> small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies pressure
> equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many golf
> supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a freebie.
> (Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier.
>
Robert - Another solution is to put the rod in a metal lathe chuck and use the
back drill support to hold the tap aligned while you manually tap the hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection & grounding |
><< I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III
> -- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >>
>Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I
>was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use
>the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of
>equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane.
>Just something to think about, maybe.
This is apples and oranges . . . the original poster spoke of
all composite aircraft which do require independendent grounding
of each device . . . ideally to a common ground.
The builder who ran independent grounds in a metal airplane is
certainly entitled to do so . . . for what ever reason. The
problem with holding this up as good advice requires that we
understand and agree with the reason. This means understanding
the physics of the matter. I'd be pleased to see some published
works on his rationale for the extra time, cost and weight
of the design.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
writes:
<< Just got my pressure-recovery wheelpants from Sam James and fitted them
tonight. I think "low riders" would be a better name for them. With the
trailing edge set at the recommended 1 " above the floor, the area just
behind the tire sits about " above the floor. This could be problematic
with grass, uneven concrete, etc. I was wondering if anyone with these
wheelpants has had problems with them scraping on the ground, or if they are
being set up higher than recommended in the instructions.
Bob Japundza
RV-6, should be flying by April >>
Bob:
It's your ship, and you will have to fix it. After installing my share of
these pants, I finally wised up, and raised 'em so a 1" thick chock would fit
under the aft side with the ship loaded, and the tire press a tad on the low
side ( as might be the case at a fuel stop during an X-CY flight to, say,
OSH). It just makes life a bit easier, IMHO.
Don't forget to put the bulkhead in, per Sam's instructions.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers;
Another tool I would like to recommend especially for those of you just
starting is an air-powered pop riveter. I got mine from Harbor Freight
Tools @ $59.00 a year ago (they may be more now) and have used it alot. I
find I get a better rivet set with these, without the 'bounce back' of a
hand pop riveter, not to mention much faster and easier on your hands and
wrists. I had no idea there were so many pop rivets in this airplane!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Holding flap accuator rods |
Or you can use plain ole' 3" seaming pliers with duct tape on the jaws;
fast, works great and doesn't scratch the tubing up. Remember when you
are tapping these to just go in a couple of turns, them back out. This
gets rid of the cuttings; it will just jam up otherwise. Also use oil
while cutting. I just used plain household oil; cutting oil is better.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>
>Robert Kellar wrote:
>
>> I just finished the flap accuator rods tonight. Trying to hold them
>by hand
>> while cutting threads proved to be impossible. Solution was to use
>a rubber
>> clamp that is used to hold golf clubs while re-applying grips. This
>is a
>> small rubber clamp designed to be squeezed in a vice and applies
>pressure
>> equally to the entire gripped area. They can be purchased from many
>golf
>> supply houses and are included with golf club assembly kits as a
>freebie.
>> (Another bad vice!) This made the job a lot easier.
>>
>
>Robert - Another solution is to put the rod in a metal lathe chuck and
>use the
>back drill support to hold the tap aligned while you manually tap the
>hole.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
We have all seen the 'finger smear' jobs of applying RTV sealant around
the baffles, firewall seals, etc. I would like to recommend a product I
found from A/C Spruce and Specialty, page 50 of the catalog. These are
industrial syringes and have proven to be invaluable during my project.
Since they have no rubber seals on the inside, you just leave the
remaining sealant in the syringe, let it dry, then pull out the plug and
use it over. In fact, I used one syringe for my entire project. This
includes dispensing epoxy, fiberglass, RTV, glues, etc. The best part is
the price; one for $1.00, or six for $1.00 (uuuuuuuuh, lets see, I'll
have to think about that one.......:)
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Subject: | Stewart Warner senders |
I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks. I wanted to
install and seal the tanks to get the job all finished with.
I did not buy the Isspro gauges because my last ones would stick and always
needed a rap to move off full.
My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ?
I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in that
they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33.
Besides, most gauges want their own senders just to control the market.
There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would they
senders be considered more or less generic ?
I would REALLY like some feedback from any of you out there that know about
this stuff.
Thanks a bunch,
Lyle.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
>A builder recently opined:
>In my humble opinion and experience, everything
>at Radio Shack is of the lowest possible quality.
>
Actually, you can buy a broad range of
product capabilities at Radio Shack, and many
other stores like them. I hear that Radio
Shack parts went to Mars on the last lander
mission. The trick is to understand what you
want the parts to do and which ones are suited
to the task. To put a wet blanket (or a warm
one for that matter) on any single supplier's
hardware may not be very useful in terms of
offering advice. Some parts at R-S are indeed
low cost and not very sturdy, but many others
are from the same name-brand suppliers such
as National, Motorola, AMP, Molex, etc. as
the upscale suppliers.
If we design our airplanes for failure
tolerance, then absolute quality
is less an issue . . . one may try a
component in any location and upgrade
it if its maintenance history is
unsatisfactory. The process can be more
comforting if we educate ourselves with
respect to what's needed and compare it
with what's offered . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Read this if you have a new Lycoming! |
New Lycoming engines used with a fixed pitch prop can result in a forced
landing or worse if you do not read the fine print!
In August a friend of mine suffered severe injuries and his new RV6 was
destroyed in an off-airport emergency landing after oil covered the canopy.
What happened?
My friend installed a new 0-360 in his RV6 together with a fixed pitch prop.
He followed the instructions (or so he thought) provided by Lycoming.
Basically they state:
IF INSTALLING A CONSTANT SPEED PROPELLER, REMOVE THE FRONT CRANKSHAFT
EXPANSION PLUG. IF A FIXED PITCH PROP IS USED, THIS PLUG MUST REMAIN IN
PLACE. At the bottom of the page is a note reading: IF THE ENGINE IS TO BE
CONVERTED FROM FIXED PITCH TO CONSTANT SPEED, OR FROM CONSTANT SPEED TO
FIXED PITCH, REFER TO SERVICE INSTRUCTION #1435. This document is enclosed
in the back of the instructions.
My friend and as it turns out many others, simply bolted the prop to the
engine as it came out of the crate. Bad move! What service instructions
#1435 say is that YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT PLUG, PUNCTURE OR REMOVE THE
REAR PLUG AND RE-INSTALL A NEW FRONT PLUG TO PREVENT OIL PRESSURE BUILD UP
BEHIND THE FRONT PLUG. Failure to do so may result in an oil leak past the
front plug. This leakage can be sudden and significant as in my friends
case.
While my friend only had 72 hrs on his engine, an other local RV6
experienced the same mishap afterover 200hrs. Not being aware of the reason
for his problem he simply replaced the front plug only to have a major
in-flight leak occur again a few hours later. Both occurances resulted in
forced landings thankfully with no damage. A check with the salvage center
in posession of my friend's wreckage revealed that his was the third
homebuit they recieved for this reason. The local air salvage firm has two!
In summary: If you have a hollow crankshaft engine and are running a fixed
pitch prop
make sure the provisions of service instructions #1435 have been complied
with.
Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM 1,300 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: RV-List: Stewart Warner senders
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 08:27:33 -0800
My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ?
I believe the Electonics International gauges are compatible. I'm
planning to use them in my -8.
Sylvain
RV-8, Right Wing Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sam James wheelpants |
Bob I have used Sams wheel pants for about 4 yrs 1400ft grass strip with no
problems TOM RV8
TIO540S1AD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
>
>My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ?
> Thanks a bunch,
>
>Lyle.
Lyle,
Autometer makes various styles of fuel quantity gauges that use 33
full/240 empty senders. See them at www.autometer.com. Summit racing
equipment carries most of the Autometer line at discount prices. I plan on
using Autometers in my RV (though I havent gotten them yet) because Ive had
real good luck with them in various hot rods.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse out of the jig!
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are much
thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more
difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the thinner
material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in
anyone's experience, especially from those of you who have done both types.
Any suggestions?
Also, I'm interested in any discussion between piano hinge or cam locks or
DZUS fastners or machine screws for the top to bottom horizontal mating of
the cowls. I lean towards the hinges because that's what I'm used to and
they're a lot cheaper.
We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl to
top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8 screws &
nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the thin
material, I'm not sure how that would work out. I hate to lay up additional
layers of fiberglass on the inside of the cowl to allow enough thickness to
machine countersink for the #6 screws. Charlie paid big bucks for a light
cowl and I don't want to start adding weight to his plane (although, if I
did add weight, maybe I'd be able to keep up with him:)
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Fellow RVers,
We're going to install a Hartzell HC-C2YL-1BF/F7663A4 constant speed prop
purchased from Van's on Charlie's 160 hp D1A in his RV6A. We have the type
"S" constant speed cowl.
To keep the purchase of the prop as far down the road as possible, I'd
like to install the cowl using the rear spinner bulkhead. I intend to make
some tubing spacers for the 7/16" prop bolts to space the rear spinner
bulkhead at the location it will be when the constant speed is installed.
Can anyone tell me the distance from the front face of the ring gear/pulley
to the aft face of the constant speed rear spinner bulkhead?
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
>There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would they
>senders be considered more or less generic ?
>Lyle.
Lyle,
The JPI fuel gauges will work fine with the S-W senders. They're a bit
pricey but I like the looks of the digital gauges. The guy I'm helping with
a 6A used all JPI instruments and his panel is one of the nicest that I've
seen. One advantage of the JPI is that you send them the ohm readings for
full and empty and they calibrate each individual gauge.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
<< My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ? >>
Mr Buster:
I use Autometer "Z series" gages. I have only one fuel level gage, with a L-R
switch. I figure that if I'm smart enough to switch tanks, I can throw the
switch,too. Autometer #2622 (as I recall) is the one you want.
Autometer has a full line of mech gages, too (OP, OT, FP). I purchase thru
Summit, or Jeg's.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Constant speed. |
I don't think that is a good idea using tall spacers of tubing as the tubes
and the bolts might rack or bend. Since there is torsional resonance, the
bolts are likely to break. I would feel better if you used a solid spacer
the thickness you need to space out the bulkhead. The fastening of any prop
is critical an your life depends on it. The actual drive of your prop is by
friction between the prop hub and the crank flange and the tubing doesn't
give you much friction area. The Drive lugs are a misnomer. Friction is
the thing that drives the prop. With improperly tightened bolts, the drive
lugs quickly shear.
On the other hand if this is just a lashup to fit the spinner and cowl,
forge ahead.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 2:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Constant speed.
>
>Fellow RVers,
>
> We're going to install a Hartzell HC-C2YL-1BF/F7663A4 constant speed prop
>purchased from Van's on Charlie's 160 hp D1A in his RV6A. We have the type
>"S" constant speed cowl.
> To keep the purchase of the prop as far down the road as possible, I'd
>like to install the cowl using the rear spinner bulkhead. I intend to make
>some tubing spacers for the 7/16" prop bolts to space the rear spinner
>bulkhead at the location it will be when the constant speed is installed.
>Can anyone tell me the distance from the front face of the ring gear/pulley
>to the aft face of the constant speed rear spinner bulkhead?
> Thanks,
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
very little compared to the Tatco.
Reconsidering,
Larry
RV-8 trim tab
larry(at)bowen.com
http://larry.bowen.com
---"Douglas G. Murray" wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work
for you
> > on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this?
> >
> > Terry
>
> Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it
to be too
> springy and heavy to use much .
> It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building
process. On the
> area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I
built the
> riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the
RVator'. It took
> me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and
file - and
> has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now
lend it
> around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their
project. If I were
> to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent
my money on
> something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from
Tatco and
> maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall.
>
> DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint.
> Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery |
Bob,
I have the battery installed behind the passenger seat (RV4). I have #2
cable from master. relay (mounted at batt) routed through protected path up
to firewall where it connects to the starter relay on the back side of the
firewall (also branches to panel tree). I then have #2 cable connecting batt
GND to the longeron using conductive grease with AN-3 bolt. A #2 cable then
connects the longeron to a 3/8 brass bolt on the back of the firewall (GND).
The brass bolt is secured through the firewall providing ground access to
the panel and the engine on either side. A #2 cable connects the brass
ground bolt to the engine block directly.
All systems use direct ground wiring (in most cases routed parallel to
supply wire). The only exception, which could be easily fixed is my strobe
supply which I grounded to the airframe.
Is this risky and what problems should I be concerned about?
Thanks, Mike Wilson RV4
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 11:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric cable installation Tail, battery
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
I have the 4" no-hole Avery yoke and love it. I use it for all my
flush-head riveting along edges.
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST 90% done, 50% left to go
>
>Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BChat64832(at)aol.com |
Subject: | availability of RV8 fuselage jig |
The jig is located in Gilbert,South Carolina (outside of Columbia),and is
free.
If interested,contact:
Ray Chaplin 803-892-3011
Bob Chatham
RV6A fuselage
bchat64832aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
>
>Does anyone have the particulars on an in-flight fire in someone's (Vern
>Dahlman's?) Rocket on New Year's Day?
We have been discussing this over coffee every morning for the last couple
of days. Seems some of the guys know Vern.
Today I was told (second hand) that the fire was caused by a fuel leak in
the fuel plumbing in or around the fuel selector under the floorboard near
the pilot's legs. He evidently made a successful landing but bounced and
stalled, damaging the airplane. (I can't understand why he would make a bad
landing with a fire between his legs but there it is.)
The rear seat passenger was treated and released. Vern is still in the
hospital in "serious" condition (upgraded from "critical") and that they
are keeping him sedated while much of the immediate healing takes place.
Evidently one of the locals BS'ed his way in to see Vern and was sorry that
he did. I gather Vern is rather a fright to see.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection & grounding |
> >Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but
I
> >was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use
> >the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of
> >equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane.
> >Just something to think about, maybe.
I'm afraid that's a croc.... er... a bit of an exaggeration. It
sounded suspicious to me so I went home last night and weighed some of
my wire. #20 comes out to just over 0.09oz per ft. At that weight it
would take about 2488 feet (!) to get 14 Lbs. Ok say you're into
overkill and want to use #12 for everything (hey, who am I to argue?)
That weighs about 0.3oz/ft, so it would still take 750' of it to make
14 lbs. A more likely amount of wire would be 300' (van's wiring kit
has 268' of wire in various sizes), which would be about 3lbs, total.
I'm not necessarily advocating running separate grounds, just wanted
to clarify the weight issue.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Aero Sport Power |
Fellow Listers:
I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold:
go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport.
I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would
be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to
aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my head but
I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his
engines. He really, really knows his stuff.
Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division of
Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops) obtains
cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are
generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just as the
customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts are
drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to their
certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH units for
the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar or
Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel pump, etc,
etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted with PPG
poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not compromise on
quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled components that
he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland Height
have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have been no
problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are properly
run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year
warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take delivery.
Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and the
central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is only as
good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per month and
he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of standards.
Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was
extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a 0-360).
If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list.
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
Subject: | Avery No Hole Yoke |
I use the Avery 4" no hole yoke. It does flex a bit when I use AN5 rivets
but not too much when I use AN4s and AN3s. I think most of the tight
tollerance rivets I have had to use this on have been AN3 though and it does
get to these very well. You may want to consider the 4" if you haven't done
the tail yet because it has the reach to get to the Rudder flange (on a 6 at
least) whereas I know a 2" yoke won't work but maybe a 3" will work.
Also, this yoke make a great bucking bar too especially for those rivets on
the inside canopy rails.
Gary "Tex" Fesenbek
Dallas, TX
RV6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
That's why I ordered my engine from him!
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aero Sport Power
Fellow Listers:
I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was two-fold:
go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport.
I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you would
be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it comes to
aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my head but
I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his
engines. He really, really knows his stuff.
Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division of
Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops) obtains
cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are
generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just as the
customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts are
drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to their
certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH units for
the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar or
Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel pump, etc,
etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted with PPG
poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not compromise on
quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled components that
he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland Height
have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have been no
problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are properly
run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year
warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take delivery.
Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and the
central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is only as
good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per month and
he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of standards.
Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was
extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a 0-360).
If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list.
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Today I was told (second hand) that the fire was caused by a fuel leak in
>the fuel plumbing in or around the fuel selector under the floorboard near
>the pilot's legs. He evidently made a successful landing but bounced and
>stalled, damaging the airplane. (I can't understand why he would make a bad
>landing with a fire between his legs but there it is.)
Jeez, can't imagine either why his attention wandered on that landing :\
Kudos to the man for coolness "under fire", as it were, and getting the bird
down in one piece.
Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through relay-
switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck so
I don't think there's a reliability problem.
This would also solve Mark's (Check Six!) problem of two-step fuel switching
(double-throw, double-gang switch, tanks and gauge).
Of course there is this: Which is worse, a fire you can see or a fire you
can't? Wonder what ignited the fuel? Winter... metal airplane moving through
dry air... static electricity? How much are static discharge wicks?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 140RV (Reserved)
Wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
You do mean 28/8/99 compatible don't you?
The GPS satalite clock rolls over on that date back to zero.
Check Megellans web site or the coast guard (I dont currently have web
access).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: year2000
Date: 05-01-99 11:18
Hi ,
Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator
is year 2000 compatible
Many thanks ,
K .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
I second this notion, as previously discussed. Mine is not flying yet, but
the engine sure is pretty..
You can see it at:
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er/engine.htm
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> |
Subject: | Aero Sport Power |
I had a similar experience with Bart LeLonde, and I concur with your
conclusions. I received an o-360 from Aero Sport about month ago, and I am
very satisfied with the engine and my dealings with Bart and the staff at
Aero Sport.
Kevin Beaton
beatonk(at)usaa.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler [SMTP:dougweil(at)pressenter.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 3:54 PM
To: RV List
Subject: RV-List: Aero Sport Power
Fellow Listers:
I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was
two-fold: to go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero
Sport.
I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that
you would
be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it
comes to
aircraft engines. Much of his technical explanations were over my
head but
I concluded I will have no qualms whatsoever about buying one of his
engines. He really, really knows his stuff.
Briefly, here is how his operations works. Aero Sport (a division
of
Progressive Air, probably one of Canada's largest engine shops)
obtains
cores world wide (there was about 75 in their storeroom). Cases are
generally sent out to ECI or Divco. Engines are then built up just
as the
customer requests (thus the experimental designation... since parts
are
drawn from many sources). But other than that they are identical to
their
certified engines. New crankshafts from ECI (for the 0-360, OH
units for
the 0-320), new cylinders (at extra cost... $1000), starters (Lamar
or
Skytech), 40 amp Nippon alternators, Slick mags, harnesses, fuel
pump, etc,
etc. Plus the engines are primed with PPG epoxy primer and painted
with PPG
poly paint (they are works of art, believe me!) Bart will not
compromise on
quality (he personally checks and specs out all overhauled
components that
he will put in a customer's engine). He and his assistant Roland
Height
have built up 120+ "experimental" engines thus far and there have
been no
problems whatsoever except for a couple bad mags. The engines are
properly
run in and all parts and testing is documented in detail. A one-year
warranty starts when you fly your airplane, not when you take
delivery.
Pickling is included. As I mentioned, we talked for a long time and
the
central theme that he stresses time and again was his reputation is
only as
good as his last customer. Thus he will only build 10 engines per
month and
he intends to keep it small and maintain this high level of
standards.
Sorry if this sounds like a advertisement for Aero Sport, but I was
extremely impressed (impressed enough to plunk down my deposit for a
0-360).
If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list.
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | robjhall(at)Juno.com (Robert J. Hall) |
>> ...you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place
>> to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static
system
>> tubing?...
I expect the best place is a matter of opinion. I ran the static system
tube along the longeron. That may be hard to do if the fuselage is
already skinned and riveted.
The wiring for electric flaps and elevator trim goes through the center
of the main spar bulkhead and down the tunnel with elevator control rod.
The trim wires continue aft through a small hole in the aft baggage
compartment bulkhead.
I put my headset jacks at the aft end of the arm rests. To keep the
exposed wire out of the way, I ran the wires for those run under the
floor in the outermost bays, up through the floor just forward of the
rear spar bulkhead, followed by a 90 degree turn aft through that
bulkhead, then on to the jacks. It would be possible to continue a
wiring run aft behind the baggage compartment side panels.
Bob Hall
RV6 N976RH
1st loop today, 145 KIAS, 3 G's, piece of cake.
Looking forward to the end of the test period.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Grounding the battery |
> Have been reading the Aeroelectric Connection over and over and have
>really learned a lot. Got a question...Should I install my battery behind
>my seat vs. on the firewall, what configuration do you recommend - battery
>contactor near the battery with local grounding strap?
From an electrical performance perspective, you want to minimize
the length of any fat wires that hook up a starter and battery.
If the battery is on the firewall (either forward or aft side)
the obvious first choice is to ground the battery to single
firewall ground stud that also mounts a panel equipment ground
block -and- braided jumper to the crankcase.
If the battery is further aft . . . say under the seat . . .
then you might consider grounding the battery to local structure
but the length of wire (and weight) to ground at the firewall
stud is still pretty tollerable. If the battery is far aft,
then structure grounding is probably better.
Battery contactors ALWAYS mount as close as practical to the
battery (+) terminal. For most folks, battery location is
the one variable that allows weight and balance control. Unless
your particular airframe and engine configuration is well
quantified for weight and balance, you may want to wait until
everything else is installed before deciding what size battery
and where it will locate.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
listers
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Subject: garmin
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:01:19 EST
Garmin GPS and y2k
Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following.
Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its
product development. Garmin products should continue to
opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits
for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year
2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA
device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with
the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products
can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data.
Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22
1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the
week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will
change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors
for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event.
Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate
or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav
functions after Gps week number roll over occurs.
In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions
for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | billla(at)warbird.org |
Subject: | New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner |
Well, I bit the bullet and headed up to Van's Wednesday. Spent a couple
of hours with Ken Scott - Ken patiently answered what were probably the
same old questions in a very polite and informative way. He was able to
offer a wealth of practical experience on RVs.
As I posted on the list before, I'll need to get started in my
apartment. I set up a 3 x 8 table and inventoried everything. Man,
that was too easy. The one time I found myself wondering what the heck
something was, there was a sheet of paper in the bag on how to tell the
plates apart! Just incredible. I'm assuming that folks don't keep the
bags together, since they're not referenced in the instructions, but
label the components and put 'em in a set of drawers.
I sorted out the components for the rear spars for both the HS and the
VS. Those new powdercoated brackets were nice! I'm basically going to
tackle everything that can be done with a drill and squeezer. I can
head out to my (open) hangar and drag my compressor from storage when I
*must* use a rivet gun.
A couple of questions for the list:
*Any good aerosol can-type primers? I see that Aircraft Spruce sells
Zinc Chromate/Oxide primers "in a can" - any comments on the viability
of these? I hate the thought of painting all this stuff with a gun, but
if I have to, I will.
*Anyone want the big 3-view of an RV-8*A* from the plans? I'm not going
to need mine and I can sure drop it in the mail for someone if they want
it.
I'm looking forward to sharing my triumphs and failures with the list.
Hope to see you at KOSH '00 in my new RV!
Thanks!
Bill Lattimer
N558RV "Fanatimus"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the
jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59
indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV
would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is;
do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts.
Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts
will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
Thanks, Marty Sailer
Near Doylestown Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Capsteve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | Re: counterbalance arm |
Does anyone know how to remedy a wedge shaped gap between
the counterbalance arm and the elevator without replacing the
U shaped counterbalance cover? Any similar experiences out
there
Seems to me that you could very easily fabricate an .016" cover over
counterbalance horn to square off looks. since skin overlaps the horn
already simply butt to skin. careful not to overhang too far. I would almost
consider structural epoxy to attach.
my .02$
Steve DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Anti-Chafe Tape |
George, Where can I get the slushing paint you use in your RTV6 wing tank
construciton?
Or should I even use it?
Thanks
Rollie
RV6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | RE: Electric cable installation Tail, battery |
>Yes, sure I've been aware engines usually are rubber-mounted on their
>mounts, and of course ground straps between engine block and mount have
>always been common practice.
>
>What I've been wondering about, however, was the remark that, as I
>understood it, the actual structure of the mount itself should never be used
>as ground lead. Is that true, or is it just a matter of not defining things
>precisely enough?
The advise against using engine mounts for ground paths
is based on several relatively minor points. First, the
mount is generally tubular steel, not nearly the quality
of conductor that a copper ground strap. There are a myriad
of joints and attaching hardware involved in the grounding
path each of which contributes a small amount of resistance
in the milliohm or sub milliohm level. Engine mounts attach
to the airframe in generally 4 or more places which causes
currents from the mount to flow across the firewall sheet from
a variety of directions. Fasteners designed for adequate
mechanical performance may or may not be good also for
electrical performance . . . given that having an engine
fall off is more stressful than having poor electrical system
performance, efforts to optimize mechanical integrity
tend to prevail.
Any one of these considerations by itself is relatively
minor but if anyone has read my articles on grounding
will know that the sum total of these effects can add
up to significant performance losses and/or noises. The
obvious solution is let the engine mount hold the engine
on and let a ground strap carry the electrons to and from
a single ground point on the firewall. BOTH may be
optimized for their respective tasks without compromising
the other.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Which constant speed props fit O360?? |
Hi all,
I thought I might save a few bucks with a rebuilt CS prop.
A prop shop I called promptly advised me that I could get a new prop from Van's
for about the cost a rebuilt one as the demand for that particular prop is very
high.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Pace <wbpace(at)adnc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
>
>The spade fuses are nice, indeed. I do like a visible indication of what
>popped though, and as a result my instruments are all on CBs and
>switch/CBs, but all my radios are hooked to a single spade fuse block.
>This did complicate things quite a bit however, especially since it meant
>having mutliple busses, so I'm not sure I would recommend that others do
>it that way.
I'm not an Electrical Engineer, but I would think that you could wire an
LED to each circuit so that it would illuminate in the cockpit when a fuse
blows. A small strip of LEDs wired in such a manner would take almost no
panel space and still indicate which curcuit was cut out.
-----
Bill Pace
San Diego, CA
wbpace(at)adnc.com
RV-6A Skinning left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
IT NEEDS 2200 RPM'S.THAT IS A GREAT RPM FOR AN RV.I MIGHT BE THINKING ABOUT
PUTTING ONE IN MY RV6A WHEN IT IS READY FOR AN ENGNIE.
JUSTIN/DON
RV6A-(TAIL SECTION)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
Subject: | Re: Type "S" cowl |
I elected to use flush #6 screws on my RV-6 with the Type S cowl and I think
it worked out great without adding any extra fiberglass. I probably put too
many screws in, should have looked at the spacing on some other airplanes
first but I guess too many is better than not enough. I opted for the
screws vs Dzus fastners partly due to cost and level of effort, but I was
also a little worried about being able to get the cowling off toward the
front if the cowl doesn't spread far enough for the extra clearance of an
essentially non-removable stud. I suspect I was too conservative but it's a
thought - the DZUS fastners would look great and make the cowling a LOT
easier to remove.
Marcus
RV-6
> We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl to
>top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8 screws &
>nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the thin
>material, I'm not sure how that would work out. I hate to lay up
additional
>layers of fiberglass on the inside of the cowl to allow enough thickness to
>machine countersink for the #6 screws.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Tips |
What's different about the Rocket wingtips?
Doug Hormann
>
>The Rocket wingtips can be purchased from Oliver Brennan at 805-872-0847.
>ps I sell a nav and strobe light kit for those tips, and my number is
>805-933-8225
>
>tracy saylor
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
While it sure would be fun to pull up to the Jet-A pump in my RV, I'm
skeptical about the engine being available for half the price. Most of the
alternate engines I've heard about have been projected to be about the same
as a regular engine. Still the savings in fuel costs could be significant.
Renault is also working on a horizontally opposed line of diesels and
their's are already flying in Socata.
Doug Hormann
empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 7:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: new engine design
>
>Has anyone heard whether the new engine which NASA and TCM
>are developing will likely be available to the RV's? I
>asked Van's about it a while back and got to reply. For
>those who may not have heard, it's a two stroke diesel,
>200hp, supposedly 1/2 the price of current engines. It's
>supposed to be on the market in 2000. I notice the dry
>weight of the new engine is 300lbs. How does that compare
>to a Lycoming 360? The engine sure looks pretty spiffy. It
>would kind of bug me to spend 20K on a Lycoming when I could
>possibly buy and maintain this new thing for less. You can
>take a look at it here:
>http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/WWW/AST/GAP/ . Any info would be
>appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
Subject: | Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation |
I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for
heat and noise. Recently at work I recieved some promo material from 3M
that included information on thier Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation that
is being used by some car manufaturers to dampen noise and thermally
insulate areas like doors. This is the same stuff that they have been
selling for years to insulate coats and sleeping bags.
They describe it as a resin-free blends of plyporylene and plyester
micro fibers and claim it is especially efficient in addressing airborne
noise between 630 Hz and 4,000 Hz. Performance is based on weight and
not thickness and appears to be very light. Three thickness were
listed:
TAI2000 200 grams/sq. meter 21 mm (.8") thick
TAI4000 400 grams/sq. meter 35 mm (1.4") thick
TAI6000 600 grams/sq. meter 42 mm (1.7") thick
I have two questions:
1. What noise frequency occures in RV type aircraft (i.e. will this
stuff be effective for them)?
2. Has anyone tried this material in their airplane and what were the
results?
I'm trying to contact the product representative from 3M to discuss this
product and to see were I could possibly buy it in smaller quantities.
It may be possible to use the Thinsulate material available at fabric
stores, which I will ask. I will also try to find out any information
they may have on fire resistance and gas produced when burned.
Frank Smidler
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back |
Online!!
My condolences. I got a bunch of messages from people asking if I knew
what was up with you. I guess I am now a fixture on the RV-list. :
)
Pac*Bell really knows how to screw things up. I have several horror
stories, all about upgrading facilities. When we moved our ISP business to
a new office we planned for months ahead of time to ensure that all of the
phone lines and the T1 would move smoothly. We scheduled everything so
that the cutover would take 1.5 hours. They claimed to have tested
everything ahead of time. We moved and had all the equipment set up and
operating in 1 hour (it was a real herculean effort) and then discovered
that the T1 didn't work (they blamed our equipment), some of the phone
lines didn't work, the hunt group for the phone lines was lost so that only
the first call got a modem; all others got a busy signal. It took 2 days
to finally get things right and that occurred a 4 AM on a Sunday. I kept
calling and complaining until they were sick of me.
So, I also have, "been there, done that." You really, truely have my
condolences.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
Hope springs eternal...
{excerpts with much deleted}
> ..... the new engine which NASA and TCM are developing
> ..... a two stroke diesel, 200hp, ...half the price of current engines.
> ...supposed to be on the market in 2000. ... dry weight is 300lbs.
I cannot believe the price will be substantially lower than current Lycomings
unless the government subsidizes production too.
Let's just imagine someone actually gets huge financing, builds modern automated
factory etc etc and begins knocking out engines for half what Lycoming does.
Will they then just fold their tent or will they "open the war chest" and chop
prices to just a few thousand more. Now, would you buy an exotic new promise;
a
completely unproven new engine just to save two or three thousand off Lycoming's
rices?
If you put $50,000,000 - a small amount surely - into an engine plant and expect
to make 10% on your investment, you will need to sell 1000 engines with an after
tax margin of $5,000 on each! Further, this analysis assumes that the engine
plant has an infinite life! As a builder you now realize that one does not set
up shop and immediately be productive. The first few years will be learning
experience. So, 10% isn't nearly enough for such a high risk. No investors
would be attracted. The new venture will flop bigtime unless -- Lycoming or
Continental can adapt their facilities and experience to build the new engines.
Maybe we could talk UMA into making clones??
Whatever happened to the Renault engine?? (I used to service Dauphines and I
would not trust Renault to supply my car engine!)
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Recommendations on band saw, drill press, brake |
Ed asked:
> Does anybody who *really* *knows* power tools have recommendations for a
> relatively good drill press and band saw?
My industrial engineering training in machine tools was way back when automation
meant things like bar chucking machines and quick-change gearboxes! I can tell
you, however, that you aren't going to find much at Sears!
There are drill presses with automatic power feed and multiple spindles. You
can also get vertical machining centers that load / change their own tools. I
suppose most are driven by programmable computing equipment. No belts, Ed,
these are all gear driven and by now probably have automatic transmissions.
Many machines imported from Asia are relatively inexpensive -- under $20K
DoAll used to be *THE* name for metal working bandsaws. We had one in our
school shop that stood about seven feet and had a blade re-welding setup built
in. It had quick change gears and a power feed table. Now, however, sheet
metal is shaped with computerized equipment like Van has. Fabrics and thin wood
are cut with laser blades on computerized tables.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to determine static system errors |
Kevin,
Just wanted to thank you for the GPS/TAS spreadsheet. I plugged my
numbers in an get a smaller error between my IAS and CAS than previous
methods I used. I believe I need to collect some more data as I do get
some outliers in the data I have. I have my VSI into the instrument
shop, but they have not checked it yet. So once the VSI situation is
determined, I will then turn to the static ports. I did order a set of
static ports from Cleveland tools. The design has an raised area 1/2 "
around the port whereas my current port only has a nubben that sticks
out past the skin. It appears that this raise platform is designed to
remove any airflow distrubance near the port. They stated that with
this design that they have not had any problems calls from RV builders.
Nice, but not conclusive evidence.
So, if after I get the VSI situation rectified and still get the unusual
1000 fpm down in level flight. I will probably insert the new static
ports and see what they do.
Again thanks for you time and interest
Ed
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> RV Listers,
>
> I have posted a guide to determining static system errors. It is available
> as a link from my RV Links page, under the flight test section
> <http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html>. Let me know what you think.
> Is it clear and easy to understand? If not, which areas need cleaning up?
> Also, please let me know if you find any errors that I missed.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com> |
Subject: | Re: VM1000 Return flow transducer |
Their VM1000 has fuel flow info but does not mention a return flow
transducer for injected applications.
Here's the answer from the folks there:
The single transducer is installed in such a place as the return flow
is already counted and doesn't return top the tank as it is plumbed
into the original feed stream.
Sounds to me like the fuel gets counted once and is never in a position
to need to be counted again. Guess I need to learn some more about
the injected fuel systems since I would think that this would pressurize
the wrong side of the return system either preventing proper return
or proper metering. The VMS folks say that it works fine just like
this so - back to the books for me.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Emp here - getting accessories
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Wiring Supply Source |
I found a great source for wiring supplies. It is
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
This was posted by Terry Cole a few days ago but there was an error in the
URL.
I visited the site and found a nice shopping mall of connectors, terminals,
crimpers -- all with nice photos so you see what you are getting.
Warning: You can spend a lot of dough here fast! I elected the shopping
cart option and ordered a whole bunch of panel wiring goodies via the secure
protocol. By the way, this IS safer than giving your card to a merchant who
makes paper copies of your credit card number.
Try it out.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Garmin GPS and y2k
Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following.
Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its
product development. Garmin products should continue to
opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits
for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year
2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA
device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with
the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products
can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data.
Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22
1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the
week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will
change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors
for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event.
Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate
or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav
functions after Gps week number roll over occurs.
In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions
for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Suthirak Sujarittanonta" <suthirak(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Aero Sport Power |
How can I contact Bart by email?
Suthirak
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | thanks - flight of two |
thanks for all the responses. I will buy the book and start studying. You
are right. There's something about flying together that nothing else can
match. Saturday I was flying down the Columbia River Gorge with Brian at
my 10 o'clock. The setting sun lit up his canopy against the dark
silhouette of Mt. Hood. Very cool. kevin -looking forward to flights of
three...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
Robert Kellar wrote:
>
>
> This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place
> to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system
> tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a
> coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best
> to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is
> the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Robert Kellar
> RV-6A fuselage "innards"
>
Robert, Another option...we ran the wiring on centerline, through an
enlarged hole where the manual elevator trim might pass, along the
floor, under the batt box, up behind the batt box, and on to their
destinations. We are happy with the result.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A first flight in first quarter...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Aero Sport Power |
Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to
bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the
engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise?
Steve Soule RV-6A
Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order.
-----Original Message-----
I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip
was two-fold:
go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at
Aero Sport.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Subject: | AeroElectric shipping time |
Readers of my web site have seen the favorable review I presented
concerning "The AeroElectric Connection" book on aircraft electrical
systems. This book is a valuable addition to the RV builders library of
references.
Based on my favorable impression of the ideas presented in the book, and
after considerable research into the electrical architecture I wanted to
use in my RV6, I ordered several items from The AeroElectric Connection
web site on 12/10. So far, I have received none of the items. I expected
to receive the various goodies I needed to begin the wiring of the panel
in a couple of weeks at the most, and this was factored into my
accelerated building schedule. However, the panel project has ground to
a halt as I await the shipment.
Is my wait of nearly a month (and still no parts) the norm when ordering
from The AeroElectric Connection? In this age of web commerce and rapid
shipments, this seems like a throwback to the old days when as a kid I
would wait for agonizing weeks for the truck shipments to bring the
latest toy from HeathKit. I am interested in hearing from a few builders
who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the
shipping times you encountered.
If my experience is the exception, then I guess I just fell victim to a
tribe of shipping gremlins; However, if this is the norm, builders need
to be aware of the delays so you can plan orders accordingly. By the
way, I was assured before Christmas that I would have my order
pronto....
Best regards for a great new year.....there are going to be TONS of new
RVs taking to the air in 99!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Systems Questions |
I'm still wading through systems selection, and any input is appreciated on
these questions:
1) Is there anything preventing me from using a Prestolite starter? For
instance, will it fit inside the cowl? Yeah, I know its not the best starter
out there, but I can pick up a brand new one for next to nothing from a
friend, and honestly, I'm gonna need the weight up front.
2) I need tach suggestions from folks who are using Jeff Rose's ignition (the
archives indicate that there *may* be interference with some makes/models of
tach's when using dissimilar ignition sources). I want a reliable, accurate,
analog, 3 1/4 inch unit. Price is definitely a consideration.
3) If you are using the Rose ignition, do you have the readout which tells
what advance the system is running?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
>Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
>I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
>waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
>cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
>very little compared to the Tatco.
>
>Reconsidering,
>Larry
>RV-8 trim tab
>larry(at)bowen.com
>http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
We have 2 hand squeezers in the prototype shop.
1 is a Tatco with a 3" yolk that gets used for general riveting.
The other is an Avery with the quick change yolk pins to allow us to
quickly install some of the specialty use yolks that we have.
The yolk that is most often on this squeezer is the 4" no hole yolk.
The one used the second most often on this squeezer is the close
clearance dimpling yolk.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through
relay-
> switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck
so
> I don't think there's a reliability problem.
..... Please be careful making conclusions of reliability based upon what
is probably not statistically significant. Van correctly admonishes us to
be extremely careful with fuel systems (read: it is dangerous to mess with
accepted fuel system design).
On the accident plane noted, we need to wait to see what the cause of the
failure was before we contemplate alternate designs. In every single
engineering redesign that I have been involved with, there have always been
surprises. Always.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
>
>I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks. I wanted
>to
>install and seal the tanks to get the job all finished with.
>I did not buy the Isspro gauges because my last ones would stick and
>always
>needed a rap to move off full.
>My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ?
>I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in
>that
>they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33.
>Besides, most gauges want their own senders just to control the
>market.
>There has to be some gauge that will work with S/W otherwise why would
>they
>senders be considered more or less generic ?
>I would REALLY like some feedback from any of you out there that know
>about
>this stuff.
> Thanks a
>bunch,
>
>Lyle.
>
>
The VDO line of automotive gages are also compatable.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back |
Online!!
>
>My condolences. I got a bunch of messages from people asking if I knew
>what was up with you. I guess I am now a fixture on the RV-list. :
)
Apologies. That message was supposed to be a private one to Matt.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Type "S" cowl |
> The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are
>much
>thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more
>difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the
>thinner
>material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in
>anyone's experience, especially from those of you who have done both
>types.
>Any suggestions?
-
The prepreg material is very strong and seems to hold up well with the
countersunk rivets even though it is thin.
An excellent adhesive (though messy to use) for gaining some extra
strength in the hinge attachment is to use Proseal.
The most difficult thing with the type S cowl is actually countersinking
the holes. Because there is no gel coat like the polyester resin cowl
you are actually cutting into the glass material. As a result,
countersink cutters get dull very quickly... Has anybody found a cost
effective way for getting cutters sharpened?
I have been trying to find carbide countersink cutters for this purpose
but I have not found any yet. I thought Bob and Judy Avery used to carry
them but I din't find any in the current catalog. Any one know of a
source?
-
> Also, I'm interested in any discussion between piano hinge or cam
>locks or
>DZUS fastners or machine screws for the top to bottom horizontal
>mating of
>the cowls. I lean towards the hinges because that's what I'm used to
>and
>they're a lot cheaper.
> We'd like to use #6 flush screws with flush washers for the top cowl
>to
>top fuselage mating and on the bottom of the bottom cowl (and #8
>screws &
>nutplates behind the spinner) as I did on my six. But, because of the
>thin
>material, I'm not sure how that would work out.
-
I can't help you with that one. I have done no Type S installations
using anything but hinges. The hinge distributes the load very well
through many fasteners, unlike wider spaced screws or camlocks. The
prepreg material is very strong though and if done properly other methods
would probably work well.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Engine Mount Finish. |
Hi,
RE: Painting of engine mount.
The manual makes recommendations for the paint to be used on the landing
gear. Is the same paint recommended for the engine mount?
They suggest epoxy primer, finished with either an epoxy, enamel, or
urethane finish.
Does anyone have any thoughts on epoxy powder coating the engine mount?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stewart Warner senders |
I used the S/W senders with the Mitchell minature gages. Haven't fueled up the
tanks yet, but before I sealed the senders in, I removed them from the wings and
connected to fuel guages. Then tipped tank upside down to check float freedom
and how the gage read. It is good thing I did, as one float arm needed some
"adjustment" so it wouldn't catch on rib and both guages only read 3/4 full when
tank was upside down. So I removed senders and bent stop tab up so float arm
could travel higher. Now they will read "Full" when tanks are full. But they do
work with these Mitchell gages.
Warren Bishop
Buster wrote:
>
> I am using the standard Stewart Warner senders for my tanks.
> My question is, what make of gauges out there are compatible ?
> I called about Mitchell and found that they work in reverse to S/W in that
> they show empty at 33 ohms whereas S/W shows full at 33.
>
> Thanks a bunch,
>
> Lyle.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Screens-Fuel Vents |
How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really
necessary? Would a piece of coarse stainless steel wool stuffed up into
the tubing work?
Von Alexander(getting ready to paint)
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Compass;Necessary? |
In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Gray <c_gray(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric Connection |
OPP
OPPS -- I forgot -- been making only fiberglass / foam aircraft.. YES you
could use airframe for ground... I had lots of ground wires on plastic airframe.
cheers .. Charlie Gray.
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/3/99 7:31:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> c_gray(at)bellsouth.net writes:
>
> << I have used Aeroelectric Conn. drawings on Rutan Defiant-- Glasair III
> -- and several Velocity's. Ithink it the best way to wire an aircraft. >>
> Not to rain on your parade, especially since I have not been there yet, but I
> was told by another RV'er that wired his plane this way that he "did not" use
> the frame for his ground source, but ran the separate wire for each piece of
> equiptment. He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane.
> Just something to think about, maybe.
> Jim Nice
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming! |
>
>New Lycoming engines used with a fixed pitch prop can result in a forced
>landing or worse if you do not read the fine print!
snip
>
>My friend and as it turns out many others, simply bolted the prop to the
>engine as it came out of the crate. Bad move! What service instructions
>#1435 say is that YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT PLUG, PUNCTURE OR REMOVE THE
>REAR PLUG AND RE-INSTALL A NEW FRONT PLUG TO PREVENT OIL PRESSURE BUILD UP
>BEHIND THE FRONT PLUG.
Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs
from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It
seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that
there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front
plug. Where is this pressure coming from?
Thanks,
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: right elevator E-609 |
Larry
When I needed a no-hole yoke, i went to the local machine shop and
scrounched through their scrap pile
Found a piece of 3/4 thick steel plate big enough for a longeron yoke
and a no-holer.
Gave the shop my original yoke and outlined how I wanted the holes cut
out for the pin's etc.
They stuck it in the mill, machined one end to fit in the squeezer,
milled the slots and drilled the holes.
They even case hardened the no-hole yoke for me.
Granted the 'longeron' yoke flexes a hair and both are not made out of
tool steel (3/4 inch makes up for that) or are plated black but squeeze
-4 rivets just as good and for time and material. (material was for free
of course ;-} )
Best thing of all, I went back and had them modify the no-hole one to
fit in a tight place and that was done for free.
Just thought I let you know about an alternative.
Gert
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I'm in the same boat. I've been waiting on the 4" no-hole yoke from Avery's
> since October so I can finish the rudder and get the tight-quartered rivets
> in the elevators. In the mean time, I'll start on the wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
You can always weld a gusset in the 4" yoke and make it a 3" no-hole
yoke. That stiffens it up considerably.
Beats having it hanging on the wall as a reminder.....;-)
Gert
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
> I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
> waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
> cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
> very little compared to the Tatco.
>
-
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>
>This is for you RV-6'ers who have done the wiring. Where is the best place
>to run wires from the aft fuselage, electric flaps and the static system
>tubing? I am installing a S-Tec two axis autopilot and will need to run a
>coax cable from behind the baggage area to the instrument panel. Is it best
>to keep all of these near the longeron or beneath the arm rest? What is
>the best way to secure these wires to the airframe? Any help would be
>appreciated.
>
>Robert Kellar
>RV-6A fuselage "innards"
>
Robert,
I puzzled a lot over getting wires from the aft fuselage to the intrument
panel. I have a full IFR bird so there are a lot of them (Com1, Com2, GPS,
ADF, VOR and LOC, Transponder, Pitot heat, Strobes, Position lights,
Landing lights, electric trim). This big bundle of coax has to get forward
somehow and the trouble with using the longeron or arm rest to do it is
that you either have a huge hole punched in structure or an unsightly
bundle winding around same.
I chose to bring everything up the centre of the fuselage and through the
spar support plate underneath the fuel selector. I kept everything tied
down with cushion clamps to keep it out of the way of the elevator pushrod
and then ran it up the back of the "U"section brace from the selector mount
to the panel. This looks OK although it is a little tight to fit things in
the sub-floor section and could be a bitch if you didn't make the baggage
floor removable.
This is one of the sections where the manual is pretty much silent.
Good luck
Leo Davies
Sanding fibreglass @#$%
&
%$#@$
%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: Gear Weldment |
My question is;
>do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts.
>
>Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these
>bolts
>will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
>
They are flush screws because at least one (the forward one) will show
and I think usually a small portion of the scond one shows.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Guy Deraspe <derasguy(at)stjeannet.ca> |
> Please can you tell me if my Megellan GPS 2000 Satellite Navigator
> is year 2000 compatible
>
> Many thanks ,
> K .
You should also verify that your GPS will pass August XX, 1999. On this
date, I do not remember which one exactly, the GPS system week counter
will pass from "GPS week" no. 1023 to "GPS week" no. 0. I was told that
some GPS may not be able to handle that week counter reset gracefully...
Guy Deraspe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Type "S" cowl |
At 11:22 AM 1/5/99 , you wrote:
>
> The flanges where the hinges will mount on the type "S" cowl are much
>thinner than the old polyester cowls. It looks like it will be more
>difficult to get good machine countersinks for the #3 rivets in the thinner
>material. We intend to glue and rivet the hinges. I'm interested in
>anyone's experience
Bob,
I just finished the "S" cowl. I machine countersunk the rivets for the
hinges and the finish rivets are very flush. I used the Avery heavy duty
ball bearing countersink cage. I clecoed the hinge in place and then
countersunk using the rivet holes in the hinge to guide the countersink pilot.
I epoxied and riveted the hinges to the cowl. I drilled 3/16 holes in the
hinges between each rivet for the epoxy to ooze thru. To insure that no
epoxy got in the hinge hoops, I had a pin installed in the hoops.
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lisa Wilmer" <lisaw(at)cyberhighway.net> |
charlie,
Horizon Air in Billings is advertising 214$ airfare from Phoenix to
Billings. Would you please check on that? I don't know how long the
special will last, but you could prepurchase Kady's next tickets to get
that rate!
I am terrified to let her fly by herself. I hear United takes really good
care of kids.
----------
> From: Charlie <ckfiber(at)dallas.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject:
> Date: Tuesday, January 06, 1998 1:27 PM
>
>
> I went from 60-70 mesages a day to 0! I did not unsuscribe, is this my
> problem or is everybody affected?
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: grounding and wire weight |
>> . . . . He believes that he has an extra 14-16# of wire in his airplane.
>> >Just something to think about, maybe.
>
>I'm afraid that's a croc.... er... a bit of an exaggeration. It
>sounded suspicious to me so I went home last night and weighed some of
>my wire. #20 comes out to just over 0.09oz per ft. At that weight it
>would take about 2488 feet (!) to get 14 Lbs.
>I'm not necessarily advocating running separate grounds, just wanted
>to clarify the weight issue.
>
Good for you Randall . . . I was wondering if anyone would
catch that. Last time I weighed a harness stripped from an
ol' 172 just for the heck of it, every wire in the airplane
totaled just under 10 pounds. This is one of the reasons why
the 14V versus 28V weight savings for wiring doesn't make
much sense for small airplanes . . . it just isn't THAT
much. On the other hand, if you are wiring a B-52 with
nearly a 100 miles of wire in it, the savings can be
considerable.
In any case, your skepticism was justified!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sduford(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
This sounds really good Doug. I do have one question about these
"experimental" angines. What are the implications in terms of insurance
with such an engine?
Sylvain
RV-8 Wing Skins
Fellow Listers:
I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip was
two-fold:
go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at Aero Sport.
I talked with Bart for over two hours and came away convinced that you
would
be hard pressed to find anyone more knowledgeable than Bart when it
comes to
aircraft engines.
...
...
If you would like any further details, drop me a note off list.
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Constant speed. |
Bob,
I have a new O-320-D1A and Hartzell CS prop from Van's on my -6. From
the front edge of the starter ring gear teeth to the aft edge of the
rear spinner bulkhead flange measured 3.1" Hope this helps. If you
need more info, call me @ 407-777-8450.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 finishing this year
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
> I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
> waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
> cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
> very little compared to the Tatco.
>
> Reconsidering,
> Larry
> RV-8 trim tab
> larry(at)bowen.com
> http://larry.bowen.com
>
Larry,
I have 3 of Avery's yokes and the 4" has flexed out of alignment so much
that is will not set a proper shop head any longer. I used it on AN3
rivets without incidence. Then I tried it on AN4 rivets and it only took
8 rivets to screw it up. I have heard that Avery's has had "bad"
batches of the 4" yoke and I think I have one of them. I sent them an
email and am waiting for a response on what they can do about it.
Most of my tools are Avery's and they are the highest of quality. I
think my 4" yoke is a very unique circumstance. Other posts suggest no
problems with their 4" yokes so I must have an inferior one.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric shipping time |
>use in my RV6, I ordered several items from The AeroElectric Connection
>web site on 12/10. So far, I have received none of the items. I
expected
>to receive the various goodies I needed to begin the wiring of the
panel
>in a couple of weeks at the most, and this was factored into my
>accelerated building schedule. However, the panel project has ground to
>a halt as I await the shipment.
Hello All,
Sam, you are not the only one. Like you, I rethought how the electrical
design should be after reading the Aeroelectric Connection. I placed an
order 11/19 by fax. By the second week of Dec. and no parts, I mailed
the order in case the fax was lost. The phone call always gave me an
answering machine. I E-mailed Bob twice about the receipt of my
order...got no response. So 1/5 I E-mailed him the same order for the
third time. Still not a peep from A.C.
If we can't get Bussman fuse blocks, Loadmeters, etc. from A.C., what
other options are available? I've tried Newark's but most parts are not
there.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Finishing in FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lschuler(at)cellular.uscc.com |
Subject: | Re: Wire terminals |
Bob Nuckolls wrote:
>...
>I hear that Radio Shack parts went to Mars on
>the last lander mission. The trick is to
>understand what you want the parts to do and
>which ones are suited to the task. To put a >wet
blanket (or a warm one for that matter) on >any
single supplier's hardware may not be very
>useful in terms of offering advice.
..
>If we design our airplanes for failure
>tolerance, then absolute quality
>is less an issue . . . one may try a
>component in any location and upgrade
>it if its maintenance history is
>unsatisfactory. The process can be more
>comforting if we educate ourselves with
>respect to what's needed and compare it
>with what's offered . . .
Having an electronics background and understanding reliability issues
related to a transistor or an IC chip better than I do a steel bolt or a
heavy glass lay-up, it's too tempting to pass up....
Seems to me Bob has some solid reasoning applicable to other suppliers of
airplane parts/supplies, such as Wicks, ASS, Harbor Freight, Featherlite,
Aerocad, Brock, Wright-LCC (EZ-Lift), B&C, the local NAPA store, and so on.
Also seems to me that we each must arrive at a compromise somewhere between
building in "fault tolerance", and our individual tolerance for faults...
For example, we could buy a "mirroring" hard drive for our home PCs (or
two engines for the plane) at additional cost or choose to tolerate an
occasional head crash on a single drive (or occasional engine-out in the
plane). As Nat Puffer so eloquently pointed out when I got concerned
about air pockets in the lay-up of my fiberglass nose strut: "Worry about
the important stuff".
Trick, of course, in applying Nat and Bob's reasoning is knowing what's
important at an appropriate point (pre-fatal-failure) in our airplane-building
learning curve...
..Regardless of the supplier, or part.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | S Cowl-Prop Spacing |
Hello List,
I sent this message days ago but it got lost. There is 3.1" between the
front side of the gear teeth and the rear side of the rear prop bulkhead
flange. This was measured on my -6 with a new O-320 and Hartzell CS
prop (from Van's of course.)
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Weldment |
> A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the
> jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59
> indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV
> would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is;
> do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts.
> Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts
> will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
They need to be countersunk. They lie almost on the line of the root
fairing.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
> Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed
to
> bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the
> engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork
exercise?
USD 75 for customs agent fee, that is all. No import tariff.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Weldment |
Marty Sailer wrote:
>
> A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the
> jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59
> indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV
> would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is;
> do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts.
> Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts
> will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
Marty,
These bolts are in full view for all to see. I would recommend using the AN509
bolts as describe in the plans.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
The Grand Champion Long EZE went down this fall when the electrically
operated fuel valve didn't open.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Harmon Rocket Accident
>
>> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through
>relay-
>> switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck
>so
>> I don't think there's a reliability problem.
>
>
>..... Please be careful making conclusions of reliability based upon what
>is probably not statistically significant. Van correctly admonishes us to
>be extremely careful with fuel systems (read: it is dangerous to mess with
>accepted fuel system design).
>
>On the accident plane noted, we need to wait to see what the cause of the
>failure was before we contemplate alternate designs. In every single
>engineering redesign that I have been involved with, there have always been
>surprises. Always.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner |
billla(at)warbird.org wrote:
>
>
> As I posted on the list before, I'll need to get started in my
> apartment. I set up a 3 x 8 table and inventoried everything. Man,
> that was too easy. The one time I found myself wondering what the heck
> something was, there was a sheet of paper in the bag on how to tell the
> plates apart! Just incredible. I'm assuming that folks don't keep the
> bags together, since they're not referenced in the instructions, but
> label the components and put 'em in a set of drawers.
>
Bill,
I grouped rivets and nuts of the same size in those little 15 bin plastic
organizers that sell for about 1.50 apiece. I wrote the AN/MS number of the
parts in each bin on the lid for easy reference. For the single and low count
items I transferred the contents of the bag into zip-lok sandwich bags and
wrote the bag number and description of the contents on the new bag. This way
when the plans call for an AN-whatever I can search through the see-through
bags and/or read the description and find the odd part real fast. The bags fit
nicely into a shoe box or two. I feel that keeping your small parts organized
is of great importance as the parts count will climb exponentially with the
wing and fuselage kits.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 33993
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
>In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
>compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
>putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | AeroElectric shipping time |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
...
I am interested in hearing from a few builders
who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the
shipping times you encountered.
...
I ordered about $300 worth of parts for my 6A from AeroElectric around Dec
20th, using the web based order system. Deanna Douglas was very apologetic
about delays in shipping through the holiday period. I received the
package yesterday, Jan 7th. I was very happy with the service received.
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
Starting on 6A-QB electrics.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming! |
John,
This is how I understand it works in a real simple way.
The oil supply for the prop is supplied by the oil line from the governor and
enters the crankcase midspan in the front main crank bearing. There is a groove
in this bearing so that oil can flow into a tube that is drilled thought the
hollow forward part of the crank. If you are using a FP prop, the oil line is
removed and the entrance hole plugged. The grove in the bearing is still there
and allows the lubricating oil for the front main bearing (at 75 psi or so) to
enter the hollow crank in the same way the oil did when a CS prop was used,
although and a much reduced rate. It is more like a small leak. If both plugs
are still installed and the rear plug is intact, pressure will build and the
front plug will blow out leaving you with a miserable day.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993
>
>
> Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs
> from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It
> seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that
> there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front
> plug. Where is this pressure coming from?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Ammeter
> Seattle WA
> USA
> 1975 JH-5
> RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
Subject: | Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation |
I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for
heat and noise. Recently at work I recieved some promo material from 3M
that included information on thier Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation that
is being used by some car manufaturers to dampen noise and thermally
insulate areas like doors. This is the same stuff that they have been
selling for years to insulate coats and sleeping bags.
They describe it as a resin-free blends of plyporylene and plyester
micro fibers and claim it is especially efficient in addressing airborne
noise between 630 Hz and 4,000 Hz. Performance is based on weight and
not thickness and appears to be very light. Three thickness were
listed:
TAI2000 200 grams/sq. meter 21 mm (.8") thick
TAI4000 400 grams/sq. meter 35 mm (1.4") thick
TAI6000 600 grams/sq. meter 42 mm (1.7") thick
I have two questions:
1. What noise frequency occures in RV type aircraft (i.e. will this
stuff be effective for them)?
2. Has anyone tried this material in their airplane and what were
the
results?
I'm trying to contact the product representative from 3M to discuss this
product and to see were I could possibly buy it in smaller quantities.
It may be possible to use the Thinsulate material available at fabric
stores, which I will ask. I will also try to find out any information
they may have on fire resistance and gas produced when burned.
Frank Smidler
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
> > I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
> > waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
> > cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
> > very little compared to the Tatco.
> >
> > Reconsidering,
> > Larry
> > RV-8 trim tab
> > larry(at)bowen.com
> > http://larry.bowen.com
> >
> Larry,
>
> I have 3 of Avery's yokes and the 4" has flexed out of alignment so much
> that is will not set a proper shop head any longer. I used it on AN3
> rivets without incidence. Then I tried it on AN4 rivets and it only took
> 8 rivets to screw it up. I have heard that Avery's has had "bad"
> batches of the 4" yoke and I think I have one of them. I sent them an
> email and am waiting for a response on what they can do about it.
>
> Most of my tools are Avery's and they are the highest of quality. I
> think my 4" yoke is a very unique circumstance. Other posts suggest no
> problems with their 4" yokes so I must have an inferior one.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
Hi group,
My answer to Larry's question was sent before the server went down and
is just now reaching the list. I had sent an email to Avery's
describing the problem and Ken Avery promptly called me with an offer to
correct the situation. That's what I call excellent customer service!
Anyway, sent the yoke back and am looking forward to getting one back
because it is very useful in tight areas.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "STEVE WHITE" <SGWHITE(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
I picked my engine up from Bart and brought it back through Customs. First
there is no Duty on General Aviation Engines. I checked with U.S. Customs
before I went up and they sited the rule that appied which I have
unfortunatly have foregotten. Just make sure you declare it. I was asked
for a bill of sale that was all.
good luck,
Steve White
s/n 24000 RV6a
Wiring & plumbing
----------
> From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Aero Sport Power
> Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 2:45 AM
>
>
> Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed
to
> bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the
> engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork
exercise?
>
> Steve Soule RV-6A
> Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The
trip
> was two-fold:
> go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde
at
> Aero Sport.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Beginning builders hands on question and answer session |
Fellow RVers
Sorry for the short notice, but here it comes.
My wife, myself, and the Rocky Mountain RVators builders group are
hosting a general question and answer session for beginning builders
stages of construction are invited and experienced builders will only
widen the pool of knowledge. My own 6A in the "finishing stages" will
be there for inspection and critique.
The Place:
Gary and Carolyn Zilik
13342 Omaha St.
Pine Junction, CO 80470
303.838.4188
How to get there:
State Highway 285 south out of Denver to Pine Junction. Turn right at
Glenn Drive. Hi Country Feed is located on the corner. One block on
Glenn drive then a forced left onto Sioux Trail. One block on Sioux
Trail to Omaha St. Right on Omaha to 13342 Omaha St. This is the fifth
house on the right.
Please RSVP if you plan to attend but this is not required. I would
just like to know how many are going to show up.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email and Web Server Back |
Online!!
Matt,
Welcome back!! I was beginning to think that the last fund raiser was so
successful that you went to Mexico to start a clandestine RV factory!!!
(You know NAFTA and all that!) Anyway I think everyone realizes how much
the RV-List means to them now.
I really knew you were working hard to fix things for us. Thanks a bunch! AL
925-606-1001)
>
>
>Dear Listers!
>
>Matronics is back online after an agonizing 3 days without Internet
>connectivity! As you might have guessed, the problem was related to
>the new upgrade
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net> |
Subject: | Re: VM1000 Return flow transducer |
"Ralph E.Capen" wrote:
>
>
>
> Their VM1000 has fuel flow info but does not mention a return flow
> transducer for injected applications.
>
>
>
> Here's the answer from the folks there:
>
> The single transducer is installed in such a place as the return flow
> is already counted and doesn't return top the tank as it is plumbed
> into the original feed stream.
>
> The VMS folks say that it works fine just like
> this so - back to the books for me.
>
No need to go back to the books Ralph, it's really very simple. The Bendix fuel
injection systems used in aircraft are of the 'constant flow' type. OTW, fuel is
being continuously sprayed by the injector nozzles.
The fuel injector servo receives fuel from the fuel pump and measures the volume
of air passing through the fuel injector servo at that time (air flow is
determined by engine speed, throttle plate position, and air density), the fuel
injector servo then meters (regulates) the correct amount of fuel (it actually
regulates fuel pressure, but that's another story) to the distribution line
which is routed directly to the distribution spider and from there to the
individual injector nozzles. The VM1000 transducer is placed in the distribution
line between the servo and the distribution spider on top of the engine. Return
to tank line (for those servos so equipped, and not all are) is from the fuel
servo - prior to fuel metering- back to the tank. So the VM1000 transducer only
measure that fuel that is sent to the injector nozzles in each cylinder and
consumed by the engine.
Bruce
Glasair III builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: Read this if you have a new Lycoming! |
Thanks for your explanation. I hadn't thought about oil supplying a
bearing.
>
>John,
>
>This is how I understand it works in a real simple way.
>
>The oil supply for the prop is supplied by the oil line from the governor and
>enters the crankcase midspan in the front main crank bearing. There is a groove
>in this bearing so that oil can flow into a tube that is drilled thought the
>hollow forward part of the crank. If you are using a FP prop, the oil line is
>removed and the entrance hole plugged. The grove in the bearing is still there
>and allows the lubricating oil for the front main bearing (at 75 psi or so) to
>enter the hollow crank in the same way the oil did when a CS prop was used,
>although and a much reduced rate. It is more like a small leak. If both plugs
>are still installed and the rear plug is intact, pressure will build and the
>front plug will blow out leaving you with a miserable day.
>
>Gary Zilik
>6A s/n 22993
>
>>
>>
>> Can you tell me how pressure can build up if the oil line that runs
>> from the governor base to the front of the engine is removed? It
>> seems to me that even though the rear plug has not been punctured that
>> there is no way for pressure to build up sufficient to blow the front
>> plug. Where is this pressure coming from?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John Ammeter
>> Seattle WA
>> USA
>> 1975 JH-5
>> RV-6 (sold 4/98)
>
>
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
I really have no idea if there would be any difference with regard to
insurance. Haven't asked my insurance man. Perhaps other Listers may
comment. I think you will find that most often nearly all homebuilts end up
with "experimental" engines anytime a non-FAA approved prop/engine
combination is used or if you install say a Air Flow Performance fuel
injection system, or an automotive alternator.
Doug
>This sounds really good Doug. I do have one question about these
>"experimental" angines. What are the implications in terms of insurance
>with such an engine?
>
>Sylvain
>
>RV-8 Wing Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aero Sport Power |
Steve:
There is a brokerage fee of around $75. That is the only unusual fee other
than shipping that I am aware of. Apparently there is no difficulty in
obtain an engine from Canada.
Doug
>
>Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to
>bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the
>engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise?
>
>Steve Soule RV-6A
>Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
FAR 91.205 requires a magnetic direction indicator (ie: magnetic compass)
>
>
>In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
>compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
>putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
Bill Pagan
"I am but a simple man with simple needs"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | michael brown <browngalaxy(at)ezol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation |
Please take me off the mailing list.
I travel all the time and come home to thousands of emails
Thanks
mike
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | thoule(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Listers,
I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp, the
support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at the
plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so I
assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is do
you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against
the E-615pp or how do you handle these.
Thanks very much in advance.
Tim Houle
RV6 Rudders
Three Hills, Alberta
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: (customs) Aero Sport Power |
Bart Charges you $75 dollars for the brokerage fees if you do not want to do
the paperwork yourself. I did pay the $75, and it was completely
transparent to me that my engine came from Canada...very much worth it!
Paul Besing
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aero Sport Power
>
>Doug, two questions. Will Bart help the buyer with the paperwork needed to
>bring the engine through US Customs? Does the US charge a duty on the
>engines, or is bringing them across the border merely a paperwork exercise?
>
>Steve Soule RV-6A
>Looking for an engine, finishing kit on order.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have just returned from a trip to Kamloops, BC. The trip
>was two-fold:
> go skiing at Sun Peaks resort and to visit Bart LeLonde at
>Aero Sport.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Screens-Fuel Vents |
---
>
>How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really
>necessary? >N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>Von, I used a small piece of the metal type of window screen and put it on
very carefully with proseal. That darn stuff sure is versatile, and yes in
my opinion it is necessary . Keeps the mud daubers (sp?) out.
>
Ken C-FKEH RV6 First flight Sept. 8/93
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Subject: | RV-3 Builders/Flyers/Enthusiasts |
List-
I would like to put out a "feeler" for persons interested in possibly
starting a RV-3 group/data base for builders, flyers, and enthusiasts, and
would like to get some feedback as to how many people from the List would be
interested.
My idea behind this has come from my experiences on the RV-list. It seems
like every time a -3 thread is posted, I meet 1-2 persons building or flying
a RV-3 that end up contacting me off list to ask questions and share
experiences with, and my feelings are that people may be interested in a
group listing to share information. I get invaluable information from the
List everyday, but let's face it, how many of you are really interested, or
have knowledge specific to the RV-3 anymore, some, few??? That's my point,
and reasoning behind my idea.
Please email me off list at if you would be interested in
such a group. My idea was to put together a listing of: Name, address,
phone #, email, RV-3 data-i.e., builder/flyer/owner, stage of construction
or completion, type of RV-3(type I or II spars, slider or tilt canopy,
etc.), modifications completed(CN-1, CN-2, others), other mods, engines/prop
combos, and any other information that people might be interested in. Then,
distribute the list to everyone interested.
Sorry for the long message. Back to the important stuff. . . .RV-List
topics!
Blue skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (oldest "unfinished" RV?????) :-)
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
Rob Reece,
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility Manager
& Scorpius Launch Coordinator
Microcosm/Volt
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716 voice
(505) 835-5299 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Marty,
Mine looked like the wing root fairing would touch or cover the heads of the
screws, so I guess it will have to counter sink them. By the way, how did
the forward brace fit on the two you are building? I had to bend mine
slightly and even then had to make a shim between the fuselage and the
brace.
Steve Soule
RV-6A getting ready to install the HS to the fuselage
-----Original Message-----My question is;
do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard
AN bolts.
Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that
these bolts
will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
Thanks, Marty Sailer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Type "S" cowl |
Scott,
I recently purchased countersink cutters from MSD at their Pompano
Beach, Florida store. The clerk had a difficult time finding piloted
cutters in the #30 & #40 sizes till he looked in the 96/97 catalog. (He
said he knows that catolog backwards and forward).
I just looked them up in my 96/97 MSD catalog. They are found on page
132.
PART NUMBER DESCRIPITION
COST IN 96/97 CATALOG
60320033 #30 HSS piloted countersink 100 degree
$8.01
60320017 #40 " " " "
" $8.01
60315017 #40 Solid carbide piloted countersink 100
degree $40.86
60315033 #30 " " " " "
" $40.86
They also carry both styles in the #21 and #10 sizes as well. For the
carbide cutters to be cost effective, they will have to last at least 6
times as long as the high speed steel variety, which they usually will
(and then some). These C/Ss have 4 cutting edges on them, so slow speeds
are recommended to prevent chattering. Hope this helps
Charlie Kuss
RV8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
Going to Miami today to help uncrate Phil Lozman's RV-8AQB today. Hope
he doesn't mind me drooling all over his kit!! :-)
> The most difficult thing with the type S cowl is actually countersinking
> the holes. Because there is no gel coat like the polyester resin cowl
> you are actually cutting into the glass material. As a result,
> countersink cutters get dull very quickly... Has anybody found a cost
> effective way for getting cutters sharpened?
>
> I have been trying to find carbide countersink cutters for this purpose
> but I have not found any yet. I thought Bob and Judy Avery used to carry
> them but I din't find any in the current catalog. Any one know of a
> source?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric shipping time |
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: AeroElectric shipping time
>
>Sam Buchanan wrote:
>...
>I am interested in hearing from a few builders
>who have ordered from The AeroElectric Connection concerning the
>shipping times you encountered.
>...
>
Sam,
Several weeks seem to be the norm for standard stock items. Custom
built parts take longer. Bob built a two speed adjustable controller for my
electric flap motor which took several months to receive.
On the other hand, when I was troubleshooting my aeroelectric voltage
regular installation, Bob responded immediately via email with a very
practical procedure to isolate problems. The result was a change to my
alternator, which had nothing to do with the regulator.
I like rapid delivery parts support, but rapid expert technical
support is part of the package with Aeroelectric. Just my opinion. Extend
your lead times a little - you won't be sorry.
Best regards,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
y2k for Garmin
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Subject: Fwd: garmin
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 09:36:59 EST
listers
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Subject: garmin
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:01:19 EST
Garmin GPS and y2k
Checked with Garmin about y2k and found out the following.
Garmin took y2k into consideration from the begining of its
product development. Garmin products should continue to
opperate after the year 2000. Products which display two digits
for the year will display 00 for the year 2000, 01 for the year
2001 so on. If you are interfacing a Garmin product to an NMEA
device such as a plotter or moving map, you should check with
the respective manufacturer to be certain that these products
can properly receive the two digit date in the NMEA data.
Another important event for GPS receivers will occur on Aug. 22
1999. this event known as GPS week number roll over is when the
week number transmitted in the satellite navigation message will
change from 1023 to 0. This roll over will not cause navigation errors
for Garmin products if opperated during the roll over event.
Some older Garmin product will need to perform an Auto Locate
or search the sky operation to aquire satellites and perform nav
functions after Gps week number roll over occurs.
In order to facilitate there customers, Garmin will issue instructions
for each product a few weeks before the GPS week number roll over event.
Stew RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Screens-Fuel Vents |
>
>How are you guys putting screens on the fuel vents? Or is this not really
>necessary? >N41VA(at)juno.com
> >>
The Rocket vents appear to be locate in a low press area behind the gear leg,
so we use a v small pitot tube looking vent. I bend a pc of 041 safety wire
into a "U", and insert it into the tube. Underbending the wire allows a good
deal of pressure between the wire and the inside of the tube. No problems wth
those crazy mud daubers after that. I used the same arrangement on my -4
without the pitot arrangements, so I would say use that on your -8 also.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Listers,
>
>I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp,
the
>support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at
the
>plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so
I
>assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is
do
>you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush
against
>the E-615pp or how do you handle these.
>
>Thanks very much in advance.
>
>Tim Houle
>RV6 Rudders
>Three Hills, Alberta
Tim,
The ears of the platenuts can be dimpled as well. Use a squeezer with a
flat-sided female die if necessary.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
turtledeck skin goes on today.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | RV6 fuselage jig available |
A fellow builder has a RV6 fuselage jig available. If interested please call
Bill Benson
(612) 890-8888
Burnsville, MN
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Systems Questions |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm still wading through systems selection, and any input is appreciated on
> these questions:
>
> 1) Is there anything preventing me from using a Prestolite starter? For
> instance, will it fit inside the cowl? Yeah, I know its not the best starter
> out there, but I can pick up a brand new one for next to nothing from a
> friend, and honestly, I'm gonna need the weight up front.
>
> 2) I need tach suggestions from folks who are using Jeff Rose's ignition (the
> archives indicate that there *may* be interference with some makes/models of
> tach's when using dissimilar ignition sources). I want a reliable, accurate,
> analog, 3 1/4 inch unit. Price is definitely a consideration.
>
> 3) If you are using the Rose ignition, do you have the readout which tells
> what advance the system is running?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
> Kyle, I'm running a Jeff Rose (Electroair) ignition on my RV-3 and have had
> absolutely no problems with it. In fact, during mag checks, I regularly see a
40
> to 50 RPM drop with the Bendix mag and nothing with the electronic ignition.
I
> didn't install the advance indicator because, frankly, I don't see any advantage
> of knowing where the spark is at. There's nothing you can do to change it
> inflight. And there's no literature available citing the spark advance needed
> for your particular flight condition
> I have installed a VM1000 engine instrument which seems to provide very accurate
> and reliable RPM indications. I used an optical RPM indicator/monitor to verify
> the VM1000 readings. Everything was within a few RPM . But, as to who provides
a
> good electronic tachometer, aside from the people at Micro Systems, I'm sorry
I
> can't help you there.
Your friends Prestolite starter will work just fine. But, if you need to loose
a few pounds in the nose area, you might consider one of the light weight starters
which are readily available. Enjoy, Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
Tim Houle wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I was dimpling on the left elevator (specifically around the E-615pp, the
> support bracket for the trim cable and servo motor) and got looking at the
> plans where the platenuts go. They are attached by an426 3-3 rivets, so I
> assum the the e-615pp has to be dimpled as well. The question I have is do
> you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush against
> the E-615pp or how do you handle these.
>
Tim, I replied to you personally, but thought I'd post it to see what resonses
I got. I countersunk mine. I don't think there's much of a structural problem
there plus the metal is thick enough for countersinking anyway (check it to be
sure).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Harmon Rocket Accident |
>
>> Makes me think more and more of my inclination to plumb my fuel through
>relay-
>> switched (read "remote") valves. Worked for years and years on the truck
>so
>> I don't think there's a reliability problem.
>
If you intend to use electric valves they would need to be failsafe to open
or motor driven valves. Either solution would preclude shutting them off in
the event of an electrical failure which might be associated with an engine
fire. Not a pleasant prospect. Further these valves would still have to be
mounted either in the cockpit or ahead of the firewall. Either place would
pose the same threat as a manual valve if the it leaked.
I don't understand what benefit the electric valves would offer. I use
numerous electric valves in my business for both air and oil. In my
experience they are certainly not trouble free.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner |
>Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as
Marhyde.
>Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95,
> think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the
Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be
possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in
paperwork. Any info would be app t.u.
RV6A/fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which increases
the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why the -8/8A
has a higher Vne than the others.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Fuel tanks.....
V. E. Welch wrote:
>
> Just a general question for the list. Why does an RV-8 require a weight in
> the rudder when the -6 doesn't? Does a -4 require the weight? What forces
> are at work that are specific to the -8?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
> Starting on rudder
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Weldment |
I used regular bolts here. The plans at that time happily directed you to
drill all of the rivet holes long before you mount the gear. When it comes
time to put the gear in, there are rivet holes where the bolt holes need to
be. I was able to enlarge one rivet hole for a bolt, but the other one was
in a different place. I was able to work around the problem, but I didn't
want to hog out a bunch of the metal to put in a CS bolt. The fairing
*just* barely covers the area. I made the fairing flair out just a hair,
and the rubber strip seals it off. Just keep an eye on things while you are
fitting things in the area.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>A friend and I are both building RV-6A's. We have his fuselage in the
>jig, with the wings on, fitting the landing gear weldments. Plan 59
>indicates that the foward brace is attached to the shorteron (as GV
>would describe it :-) with 100 degree CS AN509 bolts. My question is;
>do these holes need to be countersunk or can we use standard AN bolts.
>Although the wing angles have not been set, it appears that these bolts
>will be covered with the wing fairing with room to spare
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Landing light |
Jon Elford wrote:
>
>
> Jerry,
>
> You'd be hard-pressed to beat the Duckworks lights for cost and completeness.
> For less than $150 you can do both wings. No fuss, no muss.... Simple install.
>
> Jon Elford
> RV6 #25201
> Fuel tanks.....
Jon,
I agree with you that Duckworks is good. I'm still convinced I can come
up with a system for both wings for less than $50 for not much more
fuss. Just think, for that $100 dollars I save, I can fly somewhere and
buy a hamburger!!
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
I mounted the gascolator as low as possible on the left side and drilled a
hole in the cowl bottom just big enough for my fuel tester to fit through.
Then just seal the hole with a chrome snap plug.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be
>possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in
>paperwork. Any info would be app t.u.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be
>possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in
>paperwork. Any info would be app t.u.
>
>RV6A/fuselage
>
>
I mounted mine low on the firewall and extended the drain with brass
piping. I cut a small 'slot' in the bottom cowling so it would slide
over the drain. The drain was flush with the cowling and easily
reached from the left side of the aircraft. I did have to reach
inside the cockpit and activate the electric fuel pump in order to get
anything from the gascolator, though.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
IF YOU WANT SOME THING THAT WORKS THE CESSNA GASCOLATOR WITH THE CHOKE
CABLE DRAIN . THE CABLE MOUNTS ON ENGINE MOUNT INSIDE THE OIL
DOOR
TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
joseph.wiza wrote:
>
> So what or how do I install the gascolator such that draining will be
> possible without removing the cowling. Havent seen anything on this in
> paperwork. Any info would be app t.u.
>
> RV6A/fuselage
Or you could us an in-line filter in each line between the tank and selector
valve. If one should plug, you have the other tank to use (assuming you have not
burned it dry). Car Quest #86033. Has been used for 200+ hours that I know of
on one RV-6, with out any problems. You still have tank sumps to drain water.
Warren Bishop
RV-6 trying to finish.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Fuel tank access cover question |
I am building my second fuel tank. I am about to begin prosealing. I
am having second thoughts about how I did the access cover on the
first tank. I only used fuel lube on the gasket and cover plate
before installing the plate. Will this be sufficient? I know some
other builders used proseal on their access cover gaskes. Any
suggestions? Did I screw up?
Thanks for your suggestions.
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Any Builders Near Maui.... |
Hi,
My fiancee and I will be in Maui the week of February 4th
through the 11th. We may be adding a day or two on either
end to "see the sights" as the time there will be pretty much
taken up with a seminar we are attending.
Any RV builders nearby that are willing to show off their project
or completion or can recommend some "must see/do things,
places or events".
Thanks.
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer (about to skin)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Seat Riser Instructions for RV-4 |
Does anyone have instructions and/or dimensions for RV-4 front and rear
seat risers that you are willing to share? Is there a way to build
these so they can also keep maps in a handy, secure place?
Also, has anyone had good/bad experience with the auxiliary baggage
which can be built under the instrument panel? Doesn't look like it
would hold much more than maps. How do you latch it closed so it will
stay closed during whiferdills yet is easily opened when you need
another map during flight? Any chance your stuff would get loose inside
there and find it's way into the instrument area when flying inverted?
Clay Smith, RV-4, Just trying to figure out where I'm gonna to put my
stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation |
>I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for
>heat and noise.
There is a real nice insulation kit available for RV's from a fellow
builder located in Tennessee. He puts together a real nice package with
templates and instructions. All aircraft grade material. Several builders
have used it with no complaints. I've personally been flying my -6A with it
for almost three years now, wouldn't fly without it.
E-mail John McMahon for more info. at: rv6(at)earthlink.net
Dave Hudgins
Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jkkennedy(at)ktis.net (John Keith Kennedy) |
Listers,
Have any of you installed a Brittain autopilot in an RV? IF you have any
experience, please contact me off list.
Thanks, John K Kennedy(starting fuselage, finally!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
I mounted my gascolater on the right side and put a little hinged door (1.5" x
1.5")
on the cowl bottom in line with the drain. With this arraingement you can
look in the oil filler access door while you're messing with the gascolater
and make sure it closes properly when your done. It's not flying yet so take
this for what its worth.
Dave Beizer
Moreno Valley Ca
RV6A wiring/paint to go
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: 3 scratch-built rv-6's |
Thanks for sharing. I liked it enough that I'm quoting it so that it
gets put in the archive. However, the real purpose of this note is to
talk about that new feature. After you read my comments, feel free to
give your own to Matt (not to me, I'm not the one you have to convince
either way).
As I've shown with this message, the feature is circumventable - and so
I cannot prevent a message of mine from going into the archive. Which I
feel is just as well, because if it is not worth archiving, then perhaps
it is not worth posting in the first place. Matt, I think you are
opening the barn door to a lot of needless posting. The other thing is
what it can do to the readability of the archive. Say I've located a
thread on widget failures on RVs (I hate when that happens) and suddenly
there is a reply to a message that, from context, was obviously valuable
and interesting. However, the reply did not quote it, and the original
message was never archived.
IMHO, this is an unenforceable feature that adds no value but can
potentially cause problems for the list as a whole. I'd like to see it
scrapped and more effort spent in reducing the spam on the list.
PatK - RV-6A
(Sorry, Jerry, if you really had a reason not to want your post
archived. I thought it was interesting, original, and valuable.)
jerry calvert wrote:
>
> RV guys,
>
> Have shared this with some of you but thought I would share it with the
> rest of the list. Visited a builder in Edmond Oklahoma who is scratch
> building his -6. He bought the plans back when Van still sold plans.
> The builder had a business at one time that build parts for jet
> aircraft. He currently has a powder coating business and the -6 is in
> the back of the shop. He has the equipment and skills to build parts
> that look almost identical to Van's! You would be amazed. His
> wing/fuse skins are at least .032 so that all rivets could be machine
> countersunk. When he built his parts, he made enough parts to make 3
> airplanes! All three are around the Edmond area and one is close to
> being finished. If you put a kit built beside his scratch built, you
> cannot tell much difference. A few details are different in that he
> felt it was an improvement to change something.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: 3 scratch-built rv-6's |
> He bought the plans back when Van still sold plans.
-
You can still buy just plans (except for the RV-8(A) ).
I think the price is $250.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
Compass deviation card is also necessary!!!
----------
> From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary?
> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 11:51 PM
>
>
> FAR 91.205 requires a magnetic direction indicator (ie: magnetic compass)
>
>
> >
> >
> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
> >
> >
> Bill Pagan
> "I am but a simple man with simple needs"
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats,
actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light
dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer
the simple oldies.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation |
Thanks Dave...
John
Dave Hudgins wrote:
>
> >I have been considering for some time how to insulate my firewall for
> >heat and noise.
>
> There is a real nice insulation kit available for RV's from a fellow
> builder located in Tennessee. He puts together a real nice package with
> templates and instructions. All aircraft grade material. Several builders
> have used it with no complaints. I've personally been flying my -6A with it
> for almost three years now, wouldn't fly without it.
>
> E-mail John McMahon for more info. at: rv6(at)earthlink.net
>
> Dave Hudgins
> Nashville
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
The question I have is do
>> you actually dimple the platenut attachment holes so it sits flush
against
>> the E-615pp or how do you handle these.
>>
>
>Tim, I replied to you personally, but thought I'd post it to see what
resonses
>I got. I countersunk mine. I don't think there's much of a structural
problem
>there plus the metal is thick enough for countersinking anyway (check it to
be
>sure).
Avery sells modified dimple dies, the one for # 3 rivit holes in the plate
nuts has a flat on one side that allows you to dimple the plate nut. Their
# 14850 $16.00.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DiMeo, Robert" <Robert.DiMeo(at)sbs.siemens.com> |
OK so I may be getting picky about this but..............
I've been following the direction on building my "8" religiously. (Well,
OK, not THAT close)
Anyways, I'm looking at my pre-built Flap hinges and the edges are nowhere
near finished like I've been told to edge finish everything. Since the
pieces are riveted together, I really would have to work at it to get a
finish on these edges.
What say you all, are you bothering or just putting them on like that?
Bob
RV8 #423 waiting for more clecos....How the *&%$ many of these things am I
going to end up with???
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank access cover question |
For what it's worth, when I mount the wings to the fuselage, I intend to remove
the fuel lube I put there and replace it with proseal as a gasket and under each
screw. Who wants a gas leak?!
Brian Eckstein
6A fuselage
----------
>
>
> I am building my second fuel tank. I am about to begin prosealing. I
> am having second thoughts about how I did the access cover on the
> first tank. I only used fuel lube on the gasket and cover plate
> before installing the plate. Will this be sufficient? I know some
> other builders used proseal on their access cover gaskes. Any
> suggestions? Did I screw up?
>
> Thanks for your suggestions.
>
>
> =
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 #1054 - Wings
>
> "The essence of character is doing what's right
> even when nobody's looking."
> J.C. Watts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner |
For what it is worth, I have used Marhyde cans for almost all of my emp.
used one can of Sherwin Williams. Never had so much trouble with a spray
can. Tossed it and bought Marhyde again. never had a problem yet with
the marhyde spray nozzle.
Gert
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>
> >Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as
> Marhyde.
> >Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95,
> > think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the
>
> Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 seat risers |
Clay,
Contact DJ at Cleaveland Tool. Along with making the nicest RV interiors
you have ever seen, she has plans for the seat risers. Good luck.
Joe Rex
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/
name="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool & Material.url"
filename="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool & Material.url"
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.cleavelandtool.com/
Modified=E0767B76473CBE0189
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | Re: new engine design |
>
> Hope springs eternal...
>
> {excerpts with much deleted}
> > ..... the new engine which NASA and TCM are developing
>
> > ..... a two stroke diesel, 200hp, ...half the price of current engines.
>
> > ...supposed to be on the market in 2000. ...
>
If you put $50,000,000 - a small amount surely - into an engine plant
and expect
> to make 10% on your investment, you will need to sell 1000 engines with an after
> tax margin of $5,000 on each!
The web site has pictures of the engine and describes the overall scope
of the project, to design new less expensive power plants. They envision
demand for 10,000 (that's right!) new general aviation planes per year,
at prices starting below $100,000.
The engine supposeably (sp?) has half the parts of, say, a Lycoming and
will use more efficient manufacturing techniques to further reduce the
costs.
The web site has a nice slide show, and is worth the 20 minutes or so to
look at it. Sorry, I don't have the url.
martin shorman
lawton, ia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RVs in Auckland NZ ? |
NZ listers... Any activity (your summer !) weekend 16/17 Jan, '99 around AKL ?
UAL flyer and Harmon Rocket builder laying-over then.
John Johntmey(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire-Wound Pots |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats,
> actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light
> dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer
> the simple oldies.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Dennis:
Look in the yellow pages (phone) in your town for the nearest industrial
electronic parts house.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: No-hole yoke |
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: No-hole yoke
>
>Does anyone out there NOT regret getting a 4" no-hole yoke?
>I was planning on using it for both -4 and -3 rivets. I've been
>waiting for 2+ months for the Avery yoke - and now I'm considering
>cancelling my order. I was under the impression the Avery yoke flexed
>very little compared to the Tatco.
>
>Reconsidering,
>Larry
>RV-8 trim tab
>larry(at)bowen.com
>http://larry.bowen.com
>---"Douglas G. Murray" wrote:
>>
>
do not post
>> > My concern is that you might find the 4" no-hole yoke doesn't work
>for you
>> > on 1/8" rivets. Does anyone have some experience with this?
>> >
>> > Terry
>>
>> Terry - You are absolutely correct. I have the 4" yoke and found it
>to be too
>> springy and heavy to use much .
>> It has just sat in the drawer for much of my 5 1/5 year building
>process. On the
>> area of the elevator and rudder that every one is concerned about, I
>built the
>> riveting tool shown in the first few pages of '14 years of the
>RVator'. It took
>> me about 1 1/2 hours to build - with a hack saw , cold chisel, and
>file - and
>> has worked perfectly( and best of all cost next to nothing). I now
>lend it
>> around the Chapter as the builders get to that part in their
>project. If I were
>> to do it again I wouldn't have bought the 4" yoke at all but spent
>my money on
>> something more useful. Still-- that yoke is a good looking one from
>Tatco and
>> maybe it would looked good mounted on the wall.
>>
>> DGM RV-6 Deciding what color to paint.
>> Southern Alberta
I have the Tatco 4" and 1.5".
The 4" flexes only with 1/8 rivits but it is controlable. When you set a
rivit with a squeezer the most important thing that must happen to get a
good rivit is that you keep the shaft that holds the dies perfectly in line
with the rivit (assuming that the factory head is on the opposite side of
the yoke/throat) This requires a larger portion of your applied force when
the yoke flexes. If there is too much flex the die on the factory side will
start to make a smile along side of the rivit's head. That's when it's time
to buck the rivit.
The 4" is fine for 3/32 and the 1.5" is also good to 1/8.
I have never tried any rivits larger than 1/8 because I don't want to thrash
my tools.
On a different note I have found that hammering in a 20" C tool makes the
nicest skin dimple. I use a mid-size nylon hammer. I was able to do the 3/16
wing spar rivits with great ease in the 20" throat. I put it down on a
concrete floor and mounted a 3X gun. They came out beauty.
The moral of this story is that if you want to do the best possible job on
one of these wonderful little ships, you are going to have to buy alot of
tools.
Happy New Year,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not
sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall,
and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern
is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any
suggestions?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
>
>Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not
>sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall,
>and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern
>is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
Have you tried setting the engine mount on a level floor to see if the
mount itself is off? I'd think that unlikely but possible.
OTOH, have you checked the firewall? Is it flat? It may be that the
firewall is not flat. If that is the case I'd think that you could
use a spacer to make up for the discrepancy.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wire-Wound Pots |
<< Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rheostats,
actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light
dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer
the simple oldies. >>
The Ohmite line is available thru Allied, Mouser and DigiKey.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David C. Aronson, DDS" <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
> Paul and Listers"
I am mounting my RV4 0360 dynafocal mount and found my lower right mount about
1/4 inch from firewall. Surprizingly I put the mount on my flat work-up table
and guess what. The mounting points are not level. Abount half of that 1/4
inch is in the mount. CHECK YOUR MOUNT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. I plan to
call Van's on Monday... Otherwise, the question is, what are the tolerences for
the motor mount mounting. Does 1/4 or 1/8 inch mean much either in tilt or out
of line with the center axis of the airplane? And what will happen if we
draw-up the firewall or distort the motormount by torquing them down and setting
it straight by bolting. Will that cause mounting the engine to be that more
difficult. Answers anyone?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David C. Aronson, DDS" <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4 Fuselage Jig for Sale |
Taking the fuselage off this coming weekend. Jig is clear douglas fir 2X6 with
metal plates and cross bracing. Very straight and stable. Actually fairly
light wieght. Location: Vacaville California Please answer off list.... Do Not
Archive. Goes to first person to show up with $100.00. About half of what it
cost and a saving of at least two weekends.
Dave Aronson/RV4 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on
the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it.
May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though.
Finn
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on
the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it.
May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though.
Finn
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass near/on
the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card near it.
May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though.
Finn
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wire-Wound Pots |
Aircraft spruce new cataloge, page374 8 Ohms p/n 0144 26.50
15 Ohms p/n 0146
26.50
You can get knobs at raido shack that are smaller and look better, that is
what I did.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Test only, don't read |
From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Jon and OIP:
The weight is added ahead of the hinge line to mass balance (or over
balance) the rudder (a precaution Van has taken due to the higher Vne).
Weight in general is BAD. Weight will do two things: 1) it will increase
the energy going into causing flutter -think of it as momentum as the rudder
waves back and forth and 2) it lowers the natural frequency of the rudder
(assuming it is not added as a structural beef up) and therefore, the speed
at which flutter will occur.
As you can see in the -8 accident report (Van's web page). They have
shakers that are vibrating the airplane at frequencies from 0-50 Hz
(educated guess); this is called GVT (ground vibration test). These tests
determine what frequencies the airplane will naturally tend to ocsillate.
We (a spam company) also have shakers that we fly with that try to excite
the airplane using the 0-50 Hz inputs - both wing and tail.
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
>>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which
increases
>the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why
the -8/8A
>has a higher Vne than the others.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Carb Heat/Cabin Heat |
I am finishing up the engine compartment and had a question regarding
carb heat/cabin heat routing.
I have the larger heat muff from Van's (9" I think). I was planning
to route the output of this to my cabin heat valve (also from Van's),
Along the way, I want to insert a "Y" tubing fitting and run that to
my carb as the carb heat. Has anyone else hooked this up this way?
Will it provide sufficient carb heat?
I'm in the upper Midwest, so the heat is important. (It's 5 degrees
this morning). I plan to use a suggestion made last week to wrap
safety wire around a dowel and then wrap the wire around the exhaust
pipe inside the muff to provide extra heating surface.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
Have you checked to see if the cause of the misalignment is with the engine
mount or the firewall?
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount/firewall not flush?
>
>Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not
>sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall,
>and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My concern
>is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Carb Heat/Cabin Heat |
Inside the heat muff on my luscombe, is installed a steel screen door spring
wrapped around the exaust pipe for added heating surface. Wrap it around the
exaust pipe several times, use safety wire to secure and then install the
heat muff.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 7:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat/Cabin Heat
>
>I am finishing up the engine compartment and had a question regarding
>carb heat/cabin heat routing.
>
>I have the larger heat muff from Van's (9" I think). I was planning
>to route the output of this to my cabin heat valve (also from Van's),
>
>Along the way, I want to insert a "Y" tubing fitting and run that to
>my carb as the carb heat. Has anyone else hooked this up this way?
>Will it provide sufficient carb heat?
>
>I'm in the upper Midwest, so the heat is important. (It's 5 degrees
>this morning). I plan to use a suggestion made last week to wrap
>safety wire around a dowel and then wrap the wire around the exhaust
>pipe inside the muff to provide extra heating surface.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
>RV-6 Finishing Engine Install
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
Subject: | Lifting tail on run up |
I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly (No.2) South African RV6 (quick
build) builder and need help with an answer.
Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his permission
to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on and stick
full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, his has
a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. Is this
normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any tail lift on
the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi S26 seems to think this
is normal with high power on a light aircraft.
A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated.
Noel Drew
ZU-APF RV6 (No 1)
Durban, South Africa
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
From: | Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Paul,
Mine was the same way. I can't remember which leg, or which legs did not
align well. I called Van's about the discrepancy and got no real
satisfaction. I got the impression they'd never heard of the problem
before. Since the engine mount is shipped bolted to the center of the
finishing kit crate, I wondered if it had been bent during shipping. I
suspect it was just warped when it was made. To install, I bolted the
three mounting holes to the firewall and just leaned on the high leg and
let the bolt pull it down as I tightened it. Everything seems fine
although the airplane isn't in the air yet. I will follow this thread
with interest. Maybe this isn't a problem and also maybe the situation is
not as uncommon as I thought.
Cheers, Paul
RV6A IO360 in the air in '99 . . .really... I hope... I'm pretty sure....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lifting tail on run up |
My 180hp CS equipped RV-6 will lift the tail at full power and the brakes locked.
Have only done a couple of times to determine a blocked injector. Not very
comfortable!!
Noel E Drew wrote:
> permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on
and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6, his
has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static. Is
this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any tail lift
on the brakes? My business partner who
Terry Jantzi
C-GZRV RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Inverted Fuel( -6a) |
I am working on the fuel tanks and will have the right tank with the
inverted-flop tube. Watched George's video again to review the
installation of stand-off brackets and the little door on that
opens/closes during inverted flight. I'm confused about the operation
of the door. George says it closes during inverted flight to trap fuel
in the cell. Looks like the one in his video would open during inverted
flight and close during normal flight since it is hinged at the top. Is
this correct?????
Also, the 1 1/2" fuel transfer hole(in the video on same rib with little
door) that is located in the middle of the lightning hole area has
several smaller holes drilled around it. Is this necessary for more
fuel transfer?
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
But, weight added ahead of the hinge line is a GOOD thing if you have
a flutter issue with that surface.
Here is quick and dirty primer on flutter for those who aren't up to speed:
Picture a rudder without counter weight. If the vertical stab (VS)
of the aircraft is flexed suddenly sideways, say to the left, this
moves the hinge point of the rudder to the left, and the inertia of
the rudder will cause it's trailing edge to the right. This rudder
deflection will put more force on the VS, amplifying its original
motion to the left.
Eventually the natural strength of the VS will overcome this
leftwards flexing, and the VS will start flexing back towards the
static position. Now the rudder's inertia will work the other way,
and it's trailing edge will deflect to the left, once again
amplifying the VS motion. This back and forth flexing will continue,
and hopefully be damped out before something breaks.
There are several things in play here: the structural flexing of the
VS, the back and forth motion of the rudder, and the aerodynamic
forces (and damping) caused by the back and forth of the rudder.
Each of these things has its own natural frequency, the natural
frequency of the aerodynamic stuff will vary with airspeed. If the
natural frequencies of the various things are far enough apart the
various motions will probably not couple together, and no flutter
should occur.
If the natural frequencies are similar, then the various motions can
couple together, and the amplitude will increase on each cycle until
failure of the VS or rudder occurs. This can happen very quickly, in
a matter of seconds. This is flutter (or at least one type of it).
Generally, things are OK at some low enough speed (although if the
design was poor enough this low speed might be less than take-off
speed - I saw a video of flutter during a take -off roll of an
ultralight). As you increase speed the natural frequencies start
coming closer together, and at some speed you have a flutter problem.
Now, if we put a sufficiently heavy counter weight ahead of the hinge
line, the center of gravity (CG) of the surface will be on or ahead
of the hinge line. When we flex our VS to the left, the rudder will
not deflect (if the rudder CG is on the hinge line) or deflect
trailing edge left (if the rudder CG is ahead of the hinge line). In
either case the motion of the rudder does not amplify the motion of
the VS, and we have removed one of the factors which gives flutter.
CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee
we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not
have counter weights on ailerons (search the archives before you
state that the linking of the ailerons by the pushrods will provide
protection - this does not cover us for anti-symmetric wing
twisting). Also note that flutter is a bit of a black science. It
is not perfectly understood - Boeing lost half of a vertical tail
during flutter testing of a modified Navy 707 about 10 years ago.
They did a bunch more analysis and ground testing, went back up and
lost half the tail again. If Boeing can't predict this stuff, we
should be cautious until we have demonstrated via flight test that
our aircraft is free from flutter (especially if we have modified
something).
For more info on flutter, and flutter flight testing, see FAA AC
90-89A "Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing
Handbook", available at
ftp://ftp.fedworld.gov/pub/faa-oai/90-89a.pdf. Also have a look at
"Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft", by Vaughan Askue, available from
the RV-Ation bookstore, http://www.rvbookstore.com/
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
> Jon and OIP:
>
> The weight is added ahead of the hinge line to mass balance (or over
> balance) the rudder (a precaution Van has taken due to the higher Vne).
> Weight in general is BAD. Weight will do two things: 1) it will increase
> the energy going into causing flutter -think of it as momentum as the rudder
> waves back and forth and 2) it lowers the natural frequency of the rudder
> (assuming it is not added as a structural beef up) and therefore, the speed
> at which flutter will occur.
>
> As you can see in the -8 accident report (Van's web page). They have
> shakers that are vibrating the airplane at frequencies from 0-50 Hz
> (educated guess); this is called GVT (ground vibration test). These tests
> determine what frequencies the airplane will naturally tend to ocsillate.
> We (a spam company) also have shakers that we fly with that try to excite
> the airplane using the 0-50 Hz inputs - both wing and tail.
>
> Ron
> FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
>
>>>From my understanding, the counterweight adds mass to the rudder which
> increases
>>the speed at which flutter will occur. That is one of the reasons why
> the -8/8A
>>has a higher Vne than the others.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: ALTERNATIVE ENGINES/PROPS |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
> Listers
> Has anybody seen an RV flying with a Suburu engine( the Outback-165hp engine)?
> How about an RV with the "new" Quasi-Constant Speed Prop. The prop is suppose
> to be built by some company called Global Aeronautics, I believe, somewhere in
> Louisiana. It is not being sold yet, but is being tested on an RV-4. It is
>
I think that Global is in Starkville MS.
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Horace W. Weeks" <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire-Wound Pots |
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com, INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 1/9/99 11:48 PM
RE: Re: RV-List: Wire-Wound Pots
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 22:48:28 -0600
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire-Wound Pots
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats,
> actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light
> dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I prefer
> the simple oldies.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Dennis,
I went this route (10 ohm, 10 watt rheostat) and found it could handle only
2 or 3 lamps. I tried a 10 ohm 25 watt rheostat and it would handle 6 lamps
but was too large for the space I had available in the panel. Newark Electronics
sell these Ohmite rheostats. They have branches in most major cities. Call
them for a free catalog. I built the panel lamp dimmer shown in the 2/93
RV-ator by Bill Benedict. This is also on page 222 of the new 18 years of
RV-ator. This device uses a LM317 adjustable voltage regulator, is very small,
uses a 3/4 " dia. pot and easily controls 10 lamps on my panel. The LM317
adjustable voltage regulator can be ordered from Newark. By the way, they have
a 25$ minimum order. If your not up to assembling the dimmer yourself, you
can buy one from AeroElectric Connections. I think Bob sells them for about
40$.
Ace Weeks
RV-6 Panel almost complete
937-848-7073
74464.2105@Compuserve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | G & J <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel.
How deep are typical radios?
Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub
panel?
If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
Subject: | Fw: Lifting tail on run up |
Hi from a very warm Durban, South Africa.
I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly, (No.2), South African RV6
(quick build) builder and need help with an answer.
Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his
permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on
and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6,
his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static.
Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any
tail lift while on the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi
S26 seems to think this is normal with high power on a light aircraft.
A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated.
Noel Drew
ZU-APF RV6 (No 1)
Durban, South Africa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
> Anyways, I'm looking at my pre-built Flap hinges and the edges are
nowhere
>near finished like I've been told to edge finish everything. Since the
>pieces are riveted together, I really would have to work at it to get a
>finish on these edges.
>
> What say you all, are you bothering or just putting them on like
that?
It sounds like you're talking about the aileron hinge brackets. Yes,
they're ugly, and if you look back in the archives, you'll find that
they've always been a source of concern. I'm not the biggest stickler
for smooth edges, but they violated my standards, so I smoothed them.
It takes some time on a scotchbrite wheel, but it can be done reasonably
well.
These brackets are very important, and I predict a unanimous vote to
smooth them.
>RV8 #423 waiting for more clecos....How the *&%$ many of these things
am I
>going to end up with???
Never quite enough :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
John Monet used the suction cup compass in his Soneria. Hung it down from
the canopy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com>
Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 2:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary?
>
>I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass
near/on
>the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card
near it.
>May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though.
>
>Finn
>
>Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>>
>> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
>> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
>> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
>> >Von Alexander
>> >N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
>>
>> Russell Duffy
>> Navarre, FL
>> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Tip-up, C602 skin.
I am in the process of trimming back the front edge of the C602 Canopy
skin so that it will clear F671 top forward fuse skin as the canopy tips
up.
I think that I have trimmed back the front edge of C602 too far. Before
I drill out the rivets and replace the whole C602 skin, I wanted to know
if I could fix it somehow.
Could I put on a small strip of .020" riveted to the front edge of
C602. Would this get covered by and blended into the fiberglass band
holding down the front of the canopy?
Please e-mail any suggestions or comments.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Yes, yes and yes! Radios and gyros all need cutouts in the subpanel. Watch
out for the Wd616D which further limits real estate usable. Also the canopy
release channel interferes with anything deep. On my panel a device mounted
flush projects over to 1/2 lower on the subpanel, but the bottom line is
that my GPSCOM must hang lower on the panel than I wanted to clear the
Wd616D canopy bow channel. I also had to displace the GPSCOM (IIMorrorow GX
60 or so) to the right more than I'd like because the canopy jettison
channel can't be cut away -- I fashioned a canopy removal arm like Rick
McBride's 6 so that I can remove the canopy for access to panel stuff.
I am using a three-piece removable panel ala EAA Young Eagles with a
three-piece 1 1/2 high Z-channel spanning the whole lower portion -- no
center console. The control group takes a lot of room also. In my Skyhawk
the engine controls are on 2 1/2 centers and I am sticking with that. By
the time you line up carb heat, throttle, prop, mixture and flaps, you have
used allot of lineal inches.
I am taking the advice of a fellow lister and cutting Masonite (1/8
tempered) before I cut aluminum! It all looks good on paper but this panel
business is tricky.
Dennis Persyk 6A panel
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: G & J <glenng(at)megsinet.To: RV List <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 10:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 TU
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel.
>
>
>How deep are typical radios?
>Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub
>panel?
>If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/10/99 12:30:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<<
Just currious, how many Harmon Rockets are out there?
There are many kits for Rockets that are being built, but as you know it has
been extremely difficult to build the Rocket up until now. Now there is a
Quick Build Kit that makes building considerably easier.
Is there two models of Harmon Rockets?
The Harmon Rocket II is the two seat version of the Rocket. As far as I know,
there is no longer a single seater. The QB kit is a 2 seater.
Is there a factory website?
I am working on the Website as we speak, should be completed in a month or so,
definately before Sun-N-Fun.
Are there very many builder websites?
There is a Rocket List very similar to the RV-List. To ask a question, just
send it to Rocket(at)Fly.com.
What is the main difference in the wings to get the much higher than Van's
VNE? Is there an "8" Rocket kit or are they all based on the four?
The Wings of the Rocket are based on the -4 spar. The wings have been
shortened by approx 15", 7.5" each side. The ribs have all been readjusted to
account for the shortening. The wing skins are also thicker than the -4 or the
-8.
I hope this answers all your questions. Please feel free to email me or call
at 561-748-2429. If you would like a brochure, I will have one completed soon,
email me with your snail mail address.
Scott Brown
Florida RV-Ation
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Lattimer" <billla(at)warbird.org> |
Subject: | RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question |
Two questions on the QB wing:
1. Do I need a wing jig just to get the top skins on? The reason for
asking is that if I don't, I can build a "tabletop" jig for my emp - and
not the full "H" rig which I really don't have room for. I ass*u*me
that if the jig is square in all respects that it does NOT need to be
square with respect to the floor/table. I was thinking about a simple
rectangle with turnbuckles to square it to a piece of plywood. Please
correct my thinking here :)
2. Is it possible to install the DW landing/taxi lights in the QB wings,
or do I have to ask (read: pay for :) Van's to put 'em in while they're
building the QB?
3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor? My Sears compressor
is BRUTAL and ABSOLUTELY precludes riveting in the apartment, but if the
compressor was quiet I probably could get away with the rivet gun on a
Saturday afternoon...
Thanks!
Bill Lattimer
N558RV "Fanatimus"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: RV-6 Tip-Up Instl Panel.
>
>
>How deep are typical radios?
>Is it likely that they will need to pass through the instrument sub
>panel?
>If so, are they going to interfere with the canpoy release mechanism?
>
Many radios and instruments are long enough that they must go through the
sub-panel. On mine, dg, ai, Navaid autopilot(plug), II Morrow com, King
xpndr, etc. If you put them where they will interfere with the release
mechanism they will interfere. It is necessary to think about this area as
well as the hinge areas and the panel edge reinforcement strips, when
planning a layout.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP Cowling
Pacer N8025D for sale http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
You could do this, but you will be adding quite a bit of fiberglass, as the
fiberglass lay up is further aft of the f671 by a few inches. It may be
easer to just put on a new skin and backdrill through your existing holes.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 5:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Ooops?
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: RV-6 Tip-up, C602 skin.
>
>I am in the process of trimming back the front edge of the C602 Canopy
>skin so that it will clear F671 top forward fuse skin as the canopy tips
>up.
>
>I think that I have trimmed back the front edge of C602 too far. Before
>I drill out the rivets and replace the whole C602 skin, I wanted to know
>if I could fix it somehow.
>
>Could I put on a small strip of .020" riveted to the front edge of
>C602. Would this get covered by and blended into the fiberglass band
>holding down the front of the canopy?
>
>Please e-mail any suggestions or comments.
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim R. Stone" <Stonedog(at)compuserve.com> |
Scott,
I tried to check out the Rocket list at Rocket(at)FLY.com and was asked for a
name and password for access. WTFO? Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee
> we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not
> have counter weights on ailerons
The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the
ailerons like the -6 does
--
Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 ailerons, was: Rv-8 Rudder |
I should have been more careful in my selection of words.
The -8 does have the water pipe in the aileron leading edge. What I
meant to say was that the ailerons are not 100% mass balanced - the
water pipe is not heavy enough for that. This leaves a possibility
for an aileron flutter mode if the speed gets high enough. This
could be a symetrical flutter mode if the control linkage were
flexible enough, but I think an anti-symetrical flutter mode is more
likely. This is a flutter mode where the left wing is twisting
leading edge down at the same time the right wing is twisting leading
edge up. The left aileron would be going trailing edge down, and the
right would be going trailing edge up (this is just a snap shot of
where things would be at one moment in time - actually the wings and
ailerons would be oscillating).
Van has shown that all the RV models are free from flutter in the
recommended speed envelope. If you have a properly built, unmodified
aircraft, it should be free from flutter, up to the recommended VNE.
If you have a modified or poorly built structure or control surfaces,
or want to increase VNE, then flutter should be a concern.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>>
>
>> CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee
>> we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not
>> have counter weights on ailerons
Jerry Springer wrote:
> The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the
> ailerons like the -6 does
>
> --
> Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/10/99 2:33:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> CAUTION - just because we have a counter weight it does not guarantee
> we are free from flutter at any airspeed. Also note that we do not
> have counter weights on ailerons
The -8 does not have the water pipe in the leading edge of the
ailerons like the -6 does
--
Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>>
Mine does!
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV
70 hours ttsn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
Seems to be a common problem. The four mounts in the corners of my 6A
mount are in the same plane, but the middle two lower ones are about 3/16's
away from the firewall, which checks flat. I plan to just let the bolts
pull it in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
> Has anyone had trouble with the mounting holes on the engine mount not
> sitting flush against the firewall? I hold the mount up to the firewall,
> and the top left bolt hole sits about 1/2" off of the firewall. My
concern
> is if I put a spacer there, the alignment of the engine may be off. Any
> suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Subject: | RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question |
>
>Two questions on the QB wing:
>1. Do I need a wing jig just to get the top skins on?
>2. Is it possible to install the DW landing/taxi lights
> in the QB wings...
I used the uprights from my empennage and used a couple steel angle
standoffs for the wings. It sure made it easy for flap and aileron
fitting. I can't imaging trying to drill or rivet that last skin with
it down on a table - it seems like it would be very hard to reach. I
also installed the DuckWorks landing light in the left wing, and
installed the Gretz heated pitot tube. I then moved the tie-down ring
out one bay so the tie-down line wouldn't foul on the pitot tube.
>3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor?
Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead. Get
a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will be
*substantially* quieter.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Subject: | Re: Systems Questions |
> > I
> > didn't install the advance indicator because, frankly, I don't see any advantage
> > of knowing where the spark is at.
I would think it is an indictaor to show that the system is operating
properly. Do you not agree, or am I being overly paranoid?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Seat Riser for RV-4 |
>Does anyone have instructions and/or dimensions for RV-4 front and rear
>seat risers.......
WAIT! At what stage of the building are you? If you are at the Advanced
Canoe stage (fuselage upright, on blocks, maybe on gear) you don't need seat
risers yet. If you have the canopy on, you do.
I had my seat cushions made by DJ Lauretson (what GREAT seats) and included
were instructions for seat risers, which I dutiflly built. They fit great
and looked great. Sat on them lots flying The Canoe around in the hanger.
Then, I fit the canopy. First time I lowered the glass with me in the airplane,
I found I didn't fit. The risers were too high; no canopy clearance,
especially in the back seat. Bonked myself in the head. Rats. So, I got out
my plywood scraps and 2x4 wedges and fit and cut and fit and cut and made up
something that allowed me to fit in the airplane using the cushions and
built seat risers with those dimensions and angles. My butt is actually
about half on the cockpit floor with risers from there forward.
All canopies are different and all installations of canopies are different.
It may be the dimensions from someone elses seat risers will do fine. It may
be you will have to make several sets of seat risers before you get some
that allow you to fit with adequate canopy clearance (waste of time) and
comfort. I have several size spares if you want them ;>) Size it in with
plywood first, then start using aluminum.
You need some forward thigh support, something that gets you off the spar in
front and the flap tube in back. You kind of have to design them yourself.
I've seen some crude set-ups, some with nothing but the cushions.
You do need a place for maps and in-flight junk. I have a radio subpanel
below the instrument panel and in front of the stick which houses all the
radios and has a map/junk pocket. I like it.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8: QB Wing questions & quick compressor question |
I fully agree on the quiet compressor, bought an no-name brand as you
described for about 275 dollars and now my building buddies go home
crying every time it kicks in and put-puts in the back ground.
heheheheheh :-)
As for the tiedown ring, doesn't the tiedown assembly also hold the
brackets for the aileron bellcrank ??
Why didn't you move the pitot tube out one bay ??
Gert
Mitch Faatz wrote:
>
>
I
> also installed the DuckWorks landing light in the left wing, and
> installed the Gretz heated pitot tube. I then moved the tie-down ring
> out one bay so the tie-down line wouldn't foul on the pitot tube.
>
> >3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor?
>
> Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead. Get
> a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will be
> *substantially* quieter.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Seat Riser Instructions for RV-4 |
From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Clay,
Had the foreward baggage compartment on my first RV-4 and it turned out
to be a pain in the butt. It was always in the way whenever I wanted to
do any maintenance in that area and took time to remove it. For maps, I
built a little case out of .016 and mounted it to the right side wall
just aft of F-404.
Regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: Lifting tail on run up |
This is not uncommon in light, high powered airplanes. It simply means that your
thrust is overcoming the tail weight. However, if you hold the power on it will
come on over and cause a prop strike with lots of damage.
On run-ups, tie the tail down if you have to make a static run. Otherwise only
run it up to something that is a hundred or more RPM's less than full power.
Probably with an adult in the back, the tail won't raise.
Phil
noeldrew wrote:
>
> Hi from a very warm Durban, South Africa.
>
> I have been asked a question by the next-to-fly, (No.2), South African RV6
> (quick build) builder and need help with an answer.
>
> Jacko Jackson located nearby Hermanus in the Cape Province is awaiting his
> permission to fly and during his static tests found that with brakes full on
> and stick full back, his tail still lifted at full throttle. Unlike my RV6,
> his has a CS prop and his O-320 engine is developing full power at static.
> Is this normal for RVs with CS props because I have never experienced any
> tail lift while on the brakes? My business partner who has flown a Sukoi
> S26 seems to think this is normal with high power on a light aircraft.
>
> A word of comfort in this regard would be appreciated.
>
> Noel Drew
> ZU-APF RV6 (No 1)
> Durban, South Africa
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inverted Fuel( -6a) |
Jerry, the litttle door that hinges is actually a one-way valve. It should be
hinged at the top. If you will think of the inboard tank with the flop tube in
it, as a "header tank", and think that the outboard section is to supply fuel to
the header tank, you will see how it works. Looking at the Van's Manual wing
section (7) in the upper right hand corner of the next to the last picture
pages, you will see that it hinges at the top. It allows fuel to flow only into
the "header" portion of the tank that contains the flop tube. If fuel sloshes
outward (towards the hole and hinged door) the door will close off, trapping the
fuel in the header section.In inverted flight it will probably be open, but now,
the hole will be at the top of the tank and very little fuel will find its way
back. The flop tube is still at a low point in the tank as it is supposed to
be..
Phil
jerry calvert wrote:
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and will have the right tank with the
> inverted-flop tube. Watched George's video again to review the
> installation of stand-off brackets and the little door on that
> opens/closes during inverted flight. I'm confused about the operation
> of the door. George says it closes during inverted flight to trap fuel
> in the cell. Looks like the one in his video would open during inverted
> flight and close during normal flight since it is hinged at the top. Is
> this correct?????
>
> Also, the 1 1/2" fuel transfer hole(in the video on same rib with little
> door) that is located in the middle of the lightning hole area has
> several smaller holes drilled around it. Is this necessary for more
> fuel transfer?
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
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> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Compass;Necessary? |
Lots of pitts guys have done this. They cost about a dollar and seem to satisfy
the Inspectors.
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> John Monet used the suction cup compass in his Soneria. Hung it down from
> the canopy.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 2:26 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass;Necessary?
>
> >
> >I don't see any reason why you couldn't place a $1 suction cup compass
> near/on
> >the panel, as long as you swing the compass and place a correction card
> near it.
> >May get a raised eyebrow from the inspector, though.
> >
> >Finn
> >
> >Russell Duffy wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> >In getting my RV-8 ready to be inspected, I would like to know if a
> >> >compass will be required to pass inspection? I was planning on perhaps
> >> >putting one in at a later time. Thanks.
> >> >Von Alexander
> >> >N41VA(at)juno.com
> >>
> >> Afraid so Von. The compass is a required instrument.
> >>
> >> Russell Duffy
> >> Navarre, FL
> >> RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
> >>
> >
> >
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire-Wound Pots |
There is a simple and cost effective and better way with all parts available
at Tandy Aerospace (Radio Shack). The components are, 2-1/4 watt pot, and a
2N3055 transistor. Less than $5.00. The circuit is DC analog so no RF
problems. If you want a schematic let me know.
Dan Morris
RV-6 flying
>Anyone have a source of old-fashioned wire-wound potentiometers (rehostats,
>actually)? I am looking for some 10 ohm, 10 watt jobs for panel light
>dimming. All I can find are the switching solid state dimmers and I
prefer
>the simple oldies.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount/firewall not flush? |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> Seems to be a common problem. The four mounts in the corners of my 6A
> mount are in the same plane, but the middle two lower ones are about 3/16's
> away from the firewall, which checks flat. I plan to just let the bolts
> pull it in.
Same here, but I made spacers to fill the gap. I preferred to install
the spacers than tweak the mount or firewall.
Sam Buchanan (RV6 engine, cowl, panel....)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
Subject: | New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner |
I've been happy with the SW 988, except for the last can - the paint doesn't
stick despite good preparation. And, the size of the can has shrunk recently
but the price hasn't!
If I walk into any auto store and ask for Marhyde will they know what I'm
talking about?
-Larry
RV-8 trim tab
email: larry(at)bowen.com
web: http://larry.bowen.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gert
> Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 10:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV-8 Emp Kit Owner
>
>
> For what it is worth, I have used Marhyde cans for almost all of my emp.
> used one can of Sherwin Williams. Never had so much trouble with a spray
> can. Tossed it and bought Marhyde again. never had a problem yet with
> the marhyde spray nozzle.
>
> Gert
>
> Russell Duffy wrote:
> >
> >
> > >Sherwin Williams primer # 988...also self etch but not as good as
> > Marhyde.
> > >Sold at Napa auto parts stores...generally special order.....$4.95,
> > > think Napa has their own # for this,mine is down at the
> >
> > Napa #7220 sold under the name of Martin Senour.
> >
> > Russell Duffy
> > Navarre, FL
> > RV-8, sn-80587 (finishing up wings)
> >
>
> --
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
> any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Compressor question |
From: | tmyrick(at)Juno.com (John A Myrick III) |
>>3. Is there such a thing as a "quiet" compressor?
>
>Yes. Check the archives. Oil-free compressors will wake the dead.
>Get
>a nice cast iron belt-driven compressor with an oil bath and it will
>be
>*substantially* quieter.
>
>
>Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
>RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
>Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
>http://www.skybound.com/BARV
>http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
Mitch,
I bought a 3 1/2 hp Quincy compressor from Harbor Freight. It is an
oiled compressor with a belt driven cast iron pump. The quality of this
compressor is exceptional and much quieter than the oil-less compressors.
It cost a little more at $369 but well worth it.
Tripp Myrick
RV8 #85 - Wings
tmyrick(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inverted Fuel( -6a) |
Flying Phil's Circus wrote:
>
>
> Jerry, the litttle door that hinges is actually a one-way valve. It should be
> hinged at the top. If you will think of the inboard tank with the flop tube in
> it, as a "header tank", and think that the outboard section is to supply fuel
to
> the header tank, you will see how it works. Looking at the Van's Manual wing
> section (7) in the upper right hand corner of the next to the last picture
> pages, you will see that it hinges at the top. It allows fuel to flow only into
> the "header" portion of the tank that contains the flop tube. If fuel sloshes
> outward (towards the hole and hinged door) the door will close off, trapping
the
> fuel in the header section.In inverted flight it will probably be open, but now,
> the hole will be at the top of the tank and very little fuel will find its way
> back. The flop tube is still at a low point in the tank as it is supposed to
January 02, 1999 - January 10, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gd