RV-Archive.digest.vol-gh
January 26, 1999 - - - - , 20-
>I would like to install an electric primer because it gets two more gas
>lines out of the cabin, and also the cost of manual primers is getting right
>up there.
>Aircraft Spruce has an electric primer solenoid which shows an inlet and
>outlet port, but I cannot see any wires or connectors to activate it. Is it
>a pump ? It is recommended for Long Eze types. I called to ask my questions,
>and guess what ? They don't know anything about this items use. They gave
>me a 1-800-- number to call for answers. They turn out to be a
>distributor/supplier, not the maker, so they were even more in a fog.
>Does anyone know how these are fitted into the system and are they what I am
>looking for ?..How have others implemented an electric prime ?
>Sorry for the long dissertation.............
>Austin
>
>RV-6 tanks.
Austin,
The solonoid is just that: when you apply a voltage it opens the valve. It
has two wires coming out of it as well as the two fuel ports. It is NOT a
pump. I connected the extra port on my gascolator to the solonoid and
thence, via copper tubing, the solonoid to the primer ports. To prime the
engine you turn on the boost pump and then open the solonoid (use a spring
loaded switch) for long enough to prime. How long is a moot point because
I'm not flying yet (but getting closer).
Cheers,
Leo Davies
6A bits and bobs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Do I really need a gascolator? |
I spoke with Van's and they said a gascolator is optional. Is this true?
Would a filter do, as long as you are not in a moist climate where
condensation would be a concern?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I really need a gascolator? |
How does one know that the airplane will always be in a dry climate?
-----Original Message-----
From: Besing, Paul <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Do I really need a gascolator?
>
>I spoke with Van's and they said a gascolator is optional. Is this true?
>Would a filter do, as long as you are not in a moist climate where
>condensation would be a concern?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: electric primer Solonoid |
>The solonoid is just that: when you apply a voltage it opens the valve. It
>has two wires coming out of it as well as the two fuel ports.
The wires come off the front, the fuel ports (in/out) come off the sides.
>It is NOT a pump.
No, it is not. Gets its "power" from the fuel pump.
>I connected the extra port on my gascolator to the solonoid and thence, via
>copper tubing, the solonoid to the primer ports.
Right. How many cylinders do you prime? I did the front two and have never
had a no-start situation, even in these chilly Colorado winters. This seems
to be enough. I have one cylinder plugged up with the manifold pressure and
another that was just a pain to get to.
>To prime the engine you turn on the boost pump and then open the solonoid
>(using a spring loaded [momentary-on] switch) for long enough to prime. How
>long is a moot point because I'm not flying yet.
Oh, about three seconds ought to do it.
This is a good, simple system and gets fuel lines and (leaky, smelly
ol')primer pump out of the cabin.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | elevator balance |
My left elevator is underbalanced (electric trim installed)
so I plan on adding some weight to the inboard side of the
counterbalance arm. I'm thinking of using fishing sinkers.
I'm wondering if the lead I pour in will cling to the
existing weight? Do I need to remove the existing weight,
add it to the pot, then pour the whole thing around the
protruding bolts? I've thought about adding weight in the
fiberglass tip, but I'm a bit uncomfortable with this idea.
Any thoughts?
Adrian Chick
Nashville, TN
RV-6A wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: forward bolts on landgear mount rv6a |
Nope, you got it right.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE HORZ STAB |
I'll be painting some parts very soon for my horizontal stab. Can someone
please tell me where I can get a few cans of ZINC CHROMATE??????
Is there anything else on the market that won't kill me??? Should I etch?
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
THANKS
Stan Z RV-6A
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
>My left elevator is underbalanced (electric trim installed) so I plan on
adding >some weight to the inboard side of the counterbalance arm. I'm
thinking of >using fishing sinkers.
I think it may be better to over balance as it is easier to take the weight
off than add it on. How much do you add? Then if that is too much, you'll
have to take some off anyway.
>I'm wondering if the lead I pour in will cling to the existing weight? Do
I >need to remove the existing weight, add it to the pot, then pour the
whole >thing around the protruding bolts?
Hoping it will cling to the existing lead weight is not a good option. If it
falls off, it will not have good results: it could jam the elevator; it
could cause the elevater to flutter as it will no longer be in balance; etc.
It's a pain, but take the old weight out and melt them together.
>I've thought about adding weight in the fiberglass tip, but I'm a bit
>uncomfortable with this idea.
Bad idea. It needs to be FIRMLY attached to the STRUCTURAL part of the
elevator. The fiberglass tip is a fairing.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Ground location |
I used the firewall gear bolt as well and do not recommend it.
I ended up having to add an additional ground strap and it made all the
difference in my cranking power.
So in hindsight, I would not use the gear bolt for all the reasons the
listers have mentioned.
I am currently building an RV8A and am enjoying taking advantage of the
installation improvements from my rv6a building experience.
Scott Johnson / Chicago
rv6A n345RV 125TT
-----Original Message-----
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Ground location
>
>>Is it poor design to attach the battery ground to the firewall on my RV-4?
>
>No. Mine goes from the battery to the central firewall gear bolt; then a
>flexable strap goes from the other end of the bolt to the engine.
>
>>May I, instead, use a 3/8" brass or bronze bolt, backed up with
appropriate
>>washers to attach the battery to the firewall and then on the engine side
>of >the F/W attach the engine ground to this same bolt? What are the
>corrosion >implications?
>
>If you the engine mount bolt, you, of course, have to use the bolt that
>holds the engine mount on and it is an AN bolt as it is stressed. Brass or
>bronze will not do. The engine mount is not the ground, the bolt is. Worked
>for me.
>
>Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator Horn |
>
>JR wrote:
>
>> Drill bits do not make round holes but reamers do.
>
>Quibble, quibble.
>
Tolerance is the operative word. FOr
>most stuff, a drill bit does just fine.
>
>We're building little airplanes here, not spacecraft.
>
>Opinionated in San Jose,
>
>hal
For a middle ground compromise consider center drills. I think Avery sells
them. The machinists where I work recommended them to me and they do a very
nice job.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse out of the jig
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Remember that after you add paint, the balance will change (per George
>
>My left elevator is underbalanced (electric trim installed)
>so I plan on adding some weight to the inboard side of the
>counterbalance arm. I'm thinking of using fishing sinkers.
>I'm wondering if the lead I pour in will cling to the
>existing weight? Do I need to remove the existing weight,
>add it to the pot, then pour the whole thing around the
>protruding bolts? I've thought about adding weight in the
>fiberglass tip, but I'm a bit uncomfortable with this idea.
>Any thoughts?
>
>Adrian Chick
>Nashville, TN
>RV-6A wings on order
>
>
>
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB starting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 water pipe |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Larry,
You have the correct size pipe. All water pipe sizes are "nominal".
Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric primers |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Austin,
To add to what others have said, you can wire your primer switch to also
turn on your boost pump at the same time if you isolate it with a 1 AMP
silicon diode so that turning on the boost pump will not activate the
primer circuit.
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Can you make a lead washer and put it under the nut that holds the existing
weight?
I suspect new melt would freeze at the interface with the cold original so I
would fasten it in some way.
I used old wheel weights - oh,oh, automotive grade! I suppose now I have
endangered my only life and those of everyone on the ground in California!
Inside the tip seems good if firmly anchored to aluminum or lead.
hal
> My left elevator is underbalanced (electric trim installed)
> so I plan on adding some weight to the inboard side of the
> counterbalance arm. I'm thinking of using fishing sinkers.
> I'm wondering if the lead I pour in will cling to the
> existing weight? Do I need to remove the existing weight,
> add it to the pot, then pour the whole thing around the
> protruding bolts? I've thought about adding weight in the
> fiberglass tip, but I'm a bit uncomfortable with this idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE HORZ STAB |
Aircraft spruce carries it. Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Adrian,
More lead poured on top of the old will NOT stick. Best bet is to use
lead shot and pour epoxy around it to anchor it. Build a small dam to
retain the mess untill it hardens.
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
Bob
Glad to hear that bracing the lower instrument worked as good for you as it
did for me.
Gil. T.
gstrv8(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
>>My left elevator is underbalanced (electric trim installed) so I plan on
>adding >some weight to the inboard side of the counterbalance arm. I'm
>thinking of >using fishing sinkers.
Is it a good idea to balance the elevators individually? I recall reading
that we should expect them to have too much counterbalance weight, and that
we should expect the balance to change after painting. I am not there yet,
but it would seem that trimming/adding weight would best be left till much
later.
Terry
RV8A
Wings arrive tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Scotch Bright brand polishing wheels |
Hello Listers;
I have a supply of large diameter 3M brand Scotch Bright polishing
wheels for sale. They are 12 inch diameter, 3 inch thick, and have a 5
inch bore in them. I mounted mine on a 1/2 HP motor shaft. They have
about 4 times the volume of the small wheels you normally find.
I have two grades, 7A VFN and a few 6S VFN.
They make fast work of polishing edges and forming nice radii.
The price is $ 30 plus shipping.
Contact me directly if interested.
John Kitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electric primers |
The ACS primer has 2 wires that get hooked up to a momentary switch. Most
gascolators have a connection on the top. Run 1/8 alum tube to the SV, and
then to the motor, at least 2 cylinders, more is better.
It won't prime unless the booster pump is on. Mine needs about 3 seconds for
a cold engine and then it goes on the first or second blade.
Bruce Patton
READY
________________________________________________________________________________
test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left side throttle quad. RV-6 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 10:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Left side throttle quad. RV-6
>
>Tracy Saylor,s throttle quadrant for RV-6 &6A is 55.00 + 5.00 S&H Ph.
>805-933-8225
If you have this arrangement what controls can we put on the right side for
the passenger or co-pilot who wants to fly the plane. There is also the
safety factor to consider should one become incapacitated on the left side.
Derek Reed 6A Fus. OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dylan Caldwell <macquistan(at)ameritech.net> |
Hi, Scott,
I just got your message. I'm sorry about the mix-up. I hope this will
get through to you so that you can just hit "reply" to send back the
contract.
Dylan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer |
Any who have read my rantings for long know of my
affection for failure tolerant systems. I've been
watching a thread on electric primers wondering
if anyone would remember some words I wrote in
Appendix Z to the 'Connection which I repeat
here as follows:
---------
Note 14. Consider installing an electric solenoid valve
between the pressure side of your fuel system and the
primer ports on your engine. Aircraft Spruce offers
a suitable electrically operated valve for primer
service. Further, consider using a 4 or 6 port primer
system (depending on the number of cylinders on your
engine). Two advantages: (1) no wet fuel lines
in the cabin, (2) many an engine plagued with a
plugged carburetor or broken mixture control has
been kept running to an uneventful landing by a
multi-port primer system. This setup will perform
very nicely in such circumstances. Throttle full
open. Tease the boost pump switch as required to
develop considerable power and pick a landing
spot well beyond your normal glide ratio!
----------
Some of my builders have gone a step further
and installed a needle valve in the line downstream
of the solenoid valve. With a bit of tinkering,
the right combo of needle valve setting and throttle
position was determined for getting 60-75% power
with mixture at idle-cutoff. The also plumbed the
primer valve into its own pump with a separate feed
from the last-tank-to-drain in their standard flight
procedures.
What results is a totally independent, fuel supply
system that will keep an engine running. One of
my builders was able to use this feature to his
advantage about 8 years ago when the mixture control
on his Long-Ez became detached. He flew an additional
45 mintues to a much more desirable airport where
repairs were quickly accomplished.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I really need a gascolator? |
Paul
I have 1941 hrs on my RV's with no problems at all. I run an inline
filter just foreward of the fuel valve. The gascolator is a relic of the 30s &
no longer needed in most cases. hope this helps. Tracy SAYLOR
"Besing, Paul" wrote:
>
> I spoke with Van's and they said a gascolator is optional. Is this true?
> Would a filter do, as long as you are not in a moist climate where
> condensation would be a concern?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
> Canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internally regulated alternators |
>Why can cars go millions of miles with never an overvoltage? Usually what
>happens is that a diode fails and you start getting some AC (whine) or
just low
>output. One of my three Mazda RX7s is having alternator trouble - squealing
>bearing. It has been going on for several months. Pretty soon I will get
it
>overhauled.
Actually, failed diodes always result in loss of capacity from
the alternator combined with increased noise on the bus.
Runaway overvoltage conditions are always a failure in the
guts of the regulator.
Yes, millions of reliable alternator-hours are chalked
up every month in automobiles . . . but the failure
rate is not zero . . . it's very tiny but not zero.
Since it's so very easy to accomodate that kind of
failure, why not? From time to time, we get a note
from or hear of a builder who was glad he did.
I'd be perfectly happy if none of our ov modules ever
had to slay the electronic dragon and MOST of them
probably never will . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Gear leg fairings RV-4, 6,6A& 8 |
Gil : Send your check to tracy saylor PO box 856 Santa Paula, Ca. 93061
Taxes are included in the 105.00 tracy ph. 8059338225
Gil Alexander wrote:
>
> Tracy ... where do I send my money??
>
> Do you collect CA sales tax??
>
> Gil Alexander
> 4434 Stewart Av.
> Los Angles, CA 90066
>
> >
> >Tracy Saylor's gear leg fairings are now 95.00+10.00 S& H Ph.
> >805-933-8225
> >
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:gila(at)flash.net
> Gil Alexander,
> Los Angeles, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks, contract is sent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator Horn |
> All this recent talk about misdrilled elevator horns is scaring me, since
> that's my next step. I have just one very quick question: the
> instructions say to drill this hole "carefully," should I use a reamer,
as
> discussed in recent postings, or just drill with a 1/4" bit (I assume
it's
> a 1/4" hole). Also, any good ideas on what to use for or how to get a
> "drill bushing?" Any help or past experience on this step will be
> appreciated.
Peter,
I believe that two things are most important here: getting both elevators
at neutral prior to drilling, and making sure that the hole through the two
horns is parallel to the hinge line (perpendicular to the horn surfaces).
Many have experienced that the two horns will not be at the same angle when
the elevators are at neutral, so be careful here. Choose a hole location
which will work for both horns, and drill the left one. If this hole is
too far aft, the large diameter pushrod may interfere. Make a small block
of maple or aluminum as thick as the gap between horns and drill a hole
through it with a drill press, to insure perpendicularity. Clamp this
block between the horns, with the elevators both at neutral, and drill
through the existing hole in the left horn and block, making the hole in
the right horn.
Regarding the discussion about drills versus reamers, my experience is that
if one does not try to drill thin materials with large drills in just one
shot, good quality holes can be made. In other words, start with a small
drill, perhaps #40, then several steps up to 1/4".
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Bright brand polishing wheels |
John:whats the difference between a 7A and a 6S? Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
I need a copy of that contract for my files, also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
>I'm thinking of using fishing sinkers.
> I'm wondering if the lead I pour in will cling to the
> existing weight? Do I need to remove the existing weight,
> add it to the pot, then pour the whole thing around the
> protruding bolts? I've thought about adding weight in the
> fiberglass tip, but I'm a bit uncomfortable with this idea.
> Any thoughts?
Adrian,
Could you drill and tap a hole or two through the existing lead, thread a
bolt or two in, and cast additional lead around these bolts?
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left side throttle quad. RV-6 |
> If you have this arrangement what controls can we put on the right
side for
> the passenger or co-pilot who wants to fly the plane. There is also
the
> safety factor to consider should one become incapacitated on the
left side.
>
> Derek Reed 6A Fus. OR.
Not a factor, IMO.
When you hand off the plane to he right seat, they are not likely to
be adjusting the throttle, just wiggling the stick.
In case of incapacitation, the RV-6's cabin is not so wide that an
average-sized person cannot reach across it to pull throttle off for
emergency landing. Granted fine adjustments won't be easy, but we're
not talking a P-3 flight deck here.
My lefty throttle will actually go in the lower left-hand panel corner
I think - I'm not near there yet but you can tell I've thought about
it some, and at least one other lister has used it and likes it.
Quadrants take up so much room and limit stick movement to the left
unless done carefully.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Rear Spars and ribs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left side throttle quad. RV-6 |
Derek Its very easy for the passenger to reach across to opperate the throttle
control.Try setting in the right seat & reaching over, my wife does it all the
time& she's only 5' 2'' tall with arms to match her hieght. tracy
Derek Reed wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net>
> To: RV-list
> Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 10:52 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Left side throttle quad. RV-6
>
> >
> >Tracy Saylor,s throttle quadrant for RV-6 &6A is 55.00 + 5.00 S&H Ph.
> >805-933-8225
>
> If you have this arrangement what controls can we put on the right side for
> the passenger or co-pilot who wants to fly the plane. There is also the
> safety factor to consider should one become incapacitated on the left side.
>
> Derek Reed 6A Fus. OR.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | battery cable/battery box |
Ok, I'm stumped. In my QB, the battery box is already done, and I can not
find any reference in the archives or the manuals as to where to have the
wires exit the battery box to go to ground and to the starter relay. Also,
I am assuming that most builders put the starter relay very close to the
battery inside the firewall. Correct?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Adrian,
I shaped a small container out of aluminum to fit aft of the present
weight and put a nut plate in the top and the bottom edge to allign with
existing rivet holes, and poured lead into it. Ah, it was 3 sided with
the edge facing forward missing. Thus I was able to drill out lead to
balance and the holes did not show.
I hope that is not too confusing. Any further questions give me a shout.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, 28 hrs and grinning!
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left side throttle quad. RV-6 |
An alternative is to engineer a system similar to the one used in the Falco.
They place a throttle on the left hand side and leave another throttle,
fuel, prop controls in the center console. They system is connected by a
common linkage for both throttles which then goes into a single cable. A
drawing can bee seen in their literature and I believe on their WWW site
though it's been some time since I have looked.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left side throttle quad. RV-6
>
>> If you have this arrangement what controls can we put on the right
>side for
>> the passenger or co-pilot who wants to fly the plane. There is also
>the
>> safety factor to consider should one become incapacitated on the
>left side.
>>
>> Derek Reed 6A Fus. OR.
>
>Not a factor, IMO.
>When you hand off the plane to he right seat, they are not likely to
>be adjusting the throttle, just wiggling the stick.
>
>In case of incapacitation, the RV-6's cabin is not so wide that an
>average-sized person cannot reach across it to pull throttle off for
>emergency landing. Granted fine adjustments won't be easy, but we're
>not talking a P-3 flight deck here.
>
>My lefty throttle will actually go in the lower left-hand panel corner
>I think - I'm not near there yet but you can tell I've thought about
>it some, and at least one other lister has used it and likes it.
>Quadrants take up so much room and limit stick movement to the left
>unless done carefully.
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Rear Spars and ribs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Is there anyone in the Poughkeepsie NY area building a RV-6 or 8 ? Or does
anyone in this area have one complete? If so , could you contact me. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Now that's a good idea. The idea being I guess to provide an anchor? I got
impatient and went ahead and poured the lead. I really do wish I'd thought of
that before I'd poured the lead. I first poured it in the outboard side, then
decided it would be better in the inboard side. It took me an hour to get the
lead out (no pun intended). It seems that the two 3/32 rivets that the lead
formed around was more than enough to hold the lead in place. I think I might
still drill a hole in the new lead and run a small flush bolt through it.
Thanks.
Alex Peterson wrote:
> Adrian,
>
> Could you drill and tap a hole or two through the existing lead, thread a
> bolt or two in, and cast additional lead around these bolts?
>
> Alex Peterson
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
Now that's a good idea. The idea being I guess to provide an anchor? I got
impatient and went ahead and poured the lead. I first poured it in the outboard
side, then decided it would be better in the inboard side. It took me an hour
to get the lead out (no pun intended). It seems that the two 3/32 rivets that
the lead formed around was more than enough to hold the lead in place. I think
I might still drill a hole in the new lead and run a small flush bolt through
it. Thanks.
Alex Peterson wrote:
> Adrian,
>
> Could you drill and tap a hole or two through the existing lead, thread a
> bolt or two in, and cast additional lead around these bolts?
>
> Alex Peterson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | counterbalance cosmetics |
Guys, I really appreciate all the feedback on pouring the
lead. I've got one more question though. When the elevator
is down, you can see the inboard counterbalance weight. I'd
be curious to know whether any of you made an aluminum cover
of some sort to hide this and if so, what result. Maybe one
of you who've looked at lots of RV's could tell me what the
"standard" practice is here.
Adrian Chick
Nashville, TN
RV6A wings on order (and broke as hell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 50 or 100 Watt Landing Lights ? |
BIGGER is not always better. I am working on landing lights and wonder if
100 W bulbs are really needed or if the 50 W supplied with the Duckworks
landing lights are sufficient. Would appreciate input of those who made
night landings with either 50 and/or 100 W lights. Thanks
Lothar |||-6A; fitting wings in Lakewood/ Denver, CO |||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
Adrian,
On my RV4 I did install alum plates over these weights.
I used 1/4 in countersunk screws with c/s washers to hold
the plates, and weights to the elevator horn.
Stew RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
Adrian Chick wrote:
> . When the elevator
> is down, you can see the inboard counterbalance weight. I'd
> be curious to know whether any of you made an aluminum cover
> of some sort to hide this and if so, what result. Maybe one
> of you who've looked at lots of RV's could tell me what the
> "standard" practice is here.
>
> Adrian Chick
Paint it - KIS --- light & easy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 50 or 100 Watt Landing Lights ? |
In a message dated 1/27/99 8:59:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> BIGGER is not always better. I am working on landing lights and wonder if
> 100 W bulbs are really needed or if the 50 W supplied with the Duckworks
> landing lights are sufficient. Would appreciate input of those who made
> night landings with either 50 and/or 100 W lights. Thanks
>
> Lothar |||-6A; fitting wings in Lakewood/ Denver, CO |||
I installed a Duckworks landing light in my left wing, and experimented
with both the 55 watt bulb that it comes with, and a replacement 100 watt
"Baja Special" from Walmart. I felt that the 100 watt bulb was somewhat
brighter, and since I only had one light at that time, that's what I went
with. However, the 100 watt bulb failed after just a few hours of use. One of
the leads, where they enter the bulb from the rear, broke internally. I
replaced it with the same brand of bulb, and haven't had anymore problems. I
guess it was just poor quality control at the Mexican factory. One more thing,
if you only install one landing light, think about practicing landings in the
dark with no light. Just because the light is new, doesn't mean it won't fail.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | auto versus aircraft paint |
Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives and found
lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto and
aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it contains
more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase its
weight.
If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much for a
typical RV6?
Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint thickness?
In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and Sikkens
Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon. I'm
guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I wonder if
I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight per
gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract the VOC
weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy already so
I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based product,,
based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for System
Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished by A.F.S.
(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its great
(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the list have
experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety aspect but
for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights - adjusting
those is coming up and the comments really help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
Adrian:
I put one layer of fiberglass over the lead, then sanded, and then filled
and smoothed with microballoons. Looks great, and it wasn't much work, or
much weight since it was only one layer of glass.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
>
>Guys, I really appreciate all the feedback on pouring the
>lead. I've got one more question though. When the elevator
>is down, you can see the inboard counterbalance weight. I'd
>be curious to know whether any of you made an aluminum cover
>of some sort to hide this and if so, what result. Maybe one
>of you who've looked at lots of RV's could tell me what the
>"standard" practice is here.
>
>Adrian Chick
>Nashville, TN
>RV6A wings on order (and broke as hell)
>
>
Paul Besing
Pinacor, Inc.
(800) 528-1415 ext.67697
.....Committed to being your primary distributor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 50 or 100 Watt Landing Lights ? |
In a message dated 1/27/99 6:08:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I am working on landing lights and wonder if
100 W bulbs are really needed or if the 50 W supplied with the Duckworks
landing lights are sufficient. Would appreciate input of those who made
night landings with either 50 and/or 100 W lights. >>
All I can tell you is that the 100W GE #4595 lamps I have in the RMDs on my 6A
are great and make night landings easy.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
Keith:
I have painted rockets for an aerospace company, and have some experience
with many different kinds of paints. IMO, paint is paint, as long is it is
higher quality. My experience is, if it looks great and is durable, use it.
We used Sherwin Williams Sunfire on some of our rockets, and it is also
Boeing uses it as an OEM paint on their jets. It is an automotive paint,
that comes in base/clear and conventional format. It shoots really nice,
and is extremely durable. A local Glasair builder used Sikkens pearl white
on his prize winning bird, and it is beautiful. From what I have heard, you
can paint an RV with 2 gallons of paint, reduced 4:1. If you want to check
out the Sherwin Williams paint, you have to go to one of their automotive
shops. The stores that have the home paints do not carry it.
Also IMO, use the base/clear in whatever you get. It shoots much nicer, and
you can wetsand any orange peel without compromising color.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy (And pretty much sick of it)
>
>Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives and found
>lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
>
>Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto and
>aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it contains
>more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase its
>weight.
>
>If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much for a
>typical RV6?
>
>Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint thickness?
>
>In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and Sikkens
>Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon. I'm
>guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I wonder if
>I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight per
>gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract the VOC
>weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
>
> With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy already so
>I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
>
>Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based product,,
>based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for System
>Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished by A.F.S.
>(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its great
>(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the list have
>experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety aspect but
>for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
>
>Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights - adjusting
>those is coming up and the comments really help!
>
>
>
>
Paul Besing
Pinacor, Inc.
(800) 528-1415 ext.67697
.....Committed to being your primary distributor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balance |
I too forgot to put the bolts in. I called Van's, and they said ABSOLUTELY
you need to put the bolts in, they will come out if you dont. I took some
1/4" hardware store bolts and drilled through the lead, then countersunk the
heads on the inboard side. Once I glassed over them, you could not tell
that I added bolts after the fact.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy (And pretty much sick of it)
>
>Now that's a good idea. The idea being I guess to provide an anchor? I
got
>impatient and went ahead and poured the lead. I first poured it in the
outboard
>side, then decided it would be better in the inboard side. It took me an
hour
>to get the lead out (no pun intended). It seems that the two 3/32 rivets
that
>the lead formed around was more than enough to hold the lead in place. I
think
>I might still drill a hole in the new lead and run a small flush bolt
through
>it. Thanks.
>
>Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>> Adrian,
>>
>> Could you drill and tap a hole or two through the existing lead, thread a
>> bolt or two in, and cast additional lead around these bolts?
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>>
>
>
Paul Besing
Pinacor, Inc.
(800) 528-1415 ext.67697
.....Committed to being your primary distributor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Antenna Location |
For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
installing your GPS antenna?
Thanks,
Kevin Beaton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
I plan to put my on the forward fuse skin, just forward of the subpanel. It
is close to the gps, and I don't have to run more coax. Should be a no
brainer, as long as you don't mind a bump in your forward skin. The
location is not critical, as long as it is on the top of the airplane
somewhere.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Canopy
>
>
>For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
>installing your GPS antenna?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Beaton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
Before I bought my Skyforce GPS, I grabbed a bargain on an antenna from Britain.
The Skyforce then came with one! I used it to/from OSH last year and no
problem with it sitting on the glareshield of the Debonair.
At OSH, I saw a lot of GPS antennae similarly mounted. I should think that
would be perfect with the tip-up.
So what do I do with my cute tiny British jobbie?
> For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
> installing your GPS antenna?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on - sorta.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator Horn |
Drilling the horns was for me the most intense thing I have done so far. My
advice is to measure, check, measure, check, go sleep on it, pull it apart,
realign, remeasure, make sure that you get back to the same hole location
if you reassemble and remeasure. Onmly then will you know if you have set
it up correctly. My thought was that if I tore it down, and re-set it up,
and could get back to the same spot, I was on the right trrack for
drilling. All this took 4 nights of lots of measureing before I attacked it
with the drill.. Use a lot of clamps and the wood block between the horns
>
>
>> All this recent talk about misdrilled elevator horns is scaring me, since
>> that's my next step. I have just one very quick question: the
>> instructions say to drill this hole "carefully," should I use a reamer,
>as
>> discussed in recent postings, or just drill with a 1/4" bit (I assume
>it's
>> a 1/4" hole). Also, any good ideas on what to use for or how to get a
>> "drill bushing?" Any help or past experience on this step will be
>> appreciated.
>
>
>Peter,
>
>I believe that two things are most important here: getting both elevators
>at neutral prior to drilling, and making sure that the hole through the two
>horns is parallel to the hinge line (perpendicular to the horn surfaces).
>Many have experienced that the two horns will not be at the same angle when
>the elevators are at neutral, so be careful here. Choose a hole location
>which will work for both horns, and drill the left one. If this hole is
>too far aft, the large diameter pushrod may interfere. Make a small block
>of maple or aluminum as thick as the gap between horns and drill a hole
>through it with a drill press, to insure perpendicularity. Clamp this
>block between the horns, with the elevators both at neutral, and drill
>through the existing hole in the left horn and block, making the hole in
>the right horn.
>
>Regarding the discussion about drills versus reamers, my experience is that
>if one does not try to drill thin materials with large drills in just one
>shot, good quality holes can be made. In other words, start with a small
>drill, perhaps #40, then several steps up to 1/4".
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
>
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB starting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat Kirkpatrick <rv6flyer(at)netscape.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
Kevin,
The slickest install I've seen was under the cowling. The guy put a bracket
from the firewall to just in front of the topskin to mount the antenna. This
way the antenna is out of sight and can "see" through the fiberglass cowl.
This fellow plane was at Camarillo, Ca and Im not sure if he has flown yet.
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV-6A 98% 10% to go! First engine start this weekend, with a little luck:)
>
>
>For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
>installing your GPS antenna?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Beaton
>
>
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
> ...When the elevator
> is down, you can see the inboard counterbalance weight. I'd
> be curious to know whether any of you made an aluminum cover
> of some sort to hide this and if so, what result. Maybe one
> of you who've looked at lots of RV's could tell me what the
> "standard" practice is here.
"Standard" practice is to paint it and move on.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator Horn |
Please please please take me off this list I've tried everything I've done
what was asked of me. Again please take or unsubscribe rvrent(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Antenna Location |
Just behind the reat portion of the canopy on the Turtle deck...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Beaton [SMTP:kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 12:02 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna Location
>
>
>
> For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
> installing your GPS antenna?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Beaton
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | electric primers |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
I did---Works great---Looks proffessional.
Just set a piece of 032 against the spar and drew a line around it using the
elevator horn , then carefully trimmed and filed until the plate just sliped
inside the horn and up against the lead. I then marked the holes from the
backside through the lead weights, drilled and dimpled the plate, I believe
that I had to use
a dimpled washer or two for proper fit and to insure that the lead weight was
snug against the inside of the elev horn.
If your interrested I also built a triangular plate (foriegn object deflector)
and will install it below the stab to fill the scissors type gap created when
the elev is full up / balance horne down. I built these deflectors out 040
hard aluminum and preset nut plates (3) just inside the outer lip of my
horizontal stab.
This idea is most applicable to tail draggers operating off of grass or
unimproved airstrips.
This deflector plate should prevent any sticks, green weeds, bolts , etc. from
jamming into the scissors gap below the stab preventing down elevator
movement if needed.
LKD 888LD
________________________________________________________________________________
A friend of mine, Jan Bussel, just flew his 6A for the first flight
yesterday. He stopped by my hangar today. He got a 35NM radius to fly off his
time, so can hit quite a few a irports in that circle ffrom his homebase at
River Acres Airpark. Here is the note he sent to friends:
"First Flight of newly constructed RV-6A N557JB completed 9:30am 1-26-99
Whoooooeeeee this baby is FUN TO FLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
Jan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com.by.dfw-ix3.ix.netcom.com (8.8.4/8.8.4) |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: Electric Primer |
Terry Schubert's hand primer is located on the lower aft baffle. Keat for hand
propping since he
doesn't have a starter. Just reach in front of the prop and give it a couple of
squirts. This is a
real advantage for injectors, no primer tubing in the cockpit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HR2 Ride!! YAHOOOOOOOOOO |
Hello Rocket men,
Well, this past Sunday I had an opportunity to fly a Harmon Rocket II. And as
many of you might, I had a pre-determined idea of what I thought it was going
to be like. I have flown many RV's, a few Glasairs, alot of spam cans, and
have had some training in a Pitts. I am here to tell you that it exceeded
every inch of expectations that had. Not only did it exceed them, but ran past
them with flying colors leaving them spinning in the background. This airplane
performed like no other that I have ever flown!!!!!! The acceleration on
takeoff was incredible. We saw 3800 fpm climbouts, 230 mph straffing runs down
the runway. The stick response was RIGHT NOW!! And the smoothness and
sturdiness of the airplane was exceptional. Aerobatics (rolls, cuban eights,
270 degree turnouts, 90 degree turns) was a breeze and very comfortable.
WOW WHAT A RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!! Its been 3 days later, and the grin is still so
big on my face that my ears are touching on the back of my head!!
Many thanks to Mark Frederick for the real eye-opener of a ride. This exceeded
my wildest of expectations.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DENNIS HART <dennishart(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator Horn |
Peter
Just in case you are not aware. There is Clinton Aircraft Tool and Supply
down near Hartsfield Airport in downtown Atlanta. Tons of used tools. Has
almost anything you could need. Including drill bushings. # 404-766-3222
Dennis Hart
RV-6A, Horiz Stab
>
>All this recent talk about misdrilled elevator horns is scaring me, since
>that's my next step. I have just one very quick question: the
>instructions say to drill this hole "carefully," should I use a reamer, as
>discussed in recent postings, or just drill with a 1/4" bit (I assume it's
>a 1/4" hole). Also, any good ideas on what to use for or how to get a
>"drill bushing?" Any help or past experience on this step will be
>appreciated.
>
>Peter Christensen
>RV-6A, left elevator
>Marietta, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi listers,
A mate of mine building a Corby Starlet gave me a good hint for the use of
proseal.
He is a chef and he decided that proseal was about the same consistency as
chocolate and cream,so obviously he used the same applicator as one would use to
decorate the a cake...you know the type of thing that you squeeze the cream or
chocolate through.
he told me this was a great way to apply the proseal and was not messy at
all.......I suppose you would have to be a chef to qualify that
statement.....anyway i thought this might help someone.
Regards,
Peter Winter
Australia
RV8 wings in progress.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | bendix fuel injector |
I was speaking with Bart Lalonde about an IO-360-B2B which would
have the Bendix fuel injector. Are there any operational drawbacks to
having the injector? Is it harder to start when cold, or need lots of
maintenance or something?
On the plus side I assume the unit would make the engine a bit more
fuel efficent and possibly run a little smoother, yes? Certainly the
chance of icing is reduced. Are there any other benefits?
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terry" <Gannont(at)Fracmaster.com> |
| Subject: | Alberta Aircraft Overhaul |
This post is for those folks living in the Southern Alberta area (or
nearby)...it's a little longwinded, too, so you may well want to hit the
delete key now, and save yourself the trouble.
It's not my intention to re-ignite the priming thread, but I wanted to let
everybody know that I'm using Alberta Aircraft Overhaul (AAO) to do my
priming, and based on the experience, there are a few other things that I
intend to have them do for me as well. They have been absolutely excellent.
AAO is very homebuilder friendly (see below). I bought a primer kit, which
they keep on my behalf, and I can take whatever number of parts need
priming, and they usually turn them around usually in one or two days. I am
therefore paying for straight time. The previous place I took the parts to
did a great job, but there were charging me for some minimum quantity of
primer each time - it made the cost pretty outrageous. To me, though,
pumping a few dollars back into the local economy was infinitely preferable
to handling the miserable priming chemicals myself.
Particularly neat, though, was having the fella there take a real interest
in my project,. What really caught my attention is that he could identify
all of the parts that I was bringing in. At first, I thought that this was
a series of lucky guesses, but it turns out that his dad is currently
working on his *third* RV, and he had help him build at least one of them!
So they have a real appreciation of what you're up against (cost
constraints, lack of experience, unfamiliarity with terminology) and make
you totally comfortable with the whole thing.
AAO also said that they would be able to help me out with AN hardware and
other hard-to-find items that will really save them some time, and money (no
shipping charges). I've also talked to them about sealing my tanks for me,
which they indicated would be no problem - they do that kind of thing all
the time. I'll let the list know how that goes - that should be in the next
couple of weeks. Could be that with the infinitely affordable Canadian
dollar, it would make sense to have stateside builders use AAO the for this
ugly job - even if you factor in shipping. I intend to donate my tank jig
to them once I'm done, so you wouldn't have to worry 'bout that part of it.
The fellow that I deal with is Glen Tinckler (as per the anecdote above).
You can also contact Teddy Juliussen. They both can be reached (403)
250-1177 or email altaair(at)telusplanet.net ,
and mention my name if you think that would help. I should also mention
that I have no affliation with AAO (other than being a very satisfied
customer). Email me off list if you want any additional info. End of plug.
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Wings"
http://members.home.net/gannont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | central Missouri |
Am moving to Jefferson City in June. Have an RV-8 almost finished, cub,
C-140, C-120, and twin commanche. Any RV builders close.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | GPS Antenna Location(be careful) |
I would caution anyone wanting to install a GPS antenna under the
fiberglass cowl, or any other fiberglass molding. If you paint the
fiberglass you will most likely keep out, or reduce the rf signal
getting to the antenna. This is because most paints contain some metalic
particles in them. The extreme high frequency signal from the satellite
will not penetrate even a very thin layer of metal. So this makes the
selection of paint, in the color you want, a great task to preform. Do
you want this problem? I think not.
Instead, just install your antenna in a good location on the exterior,
or under the canopy where the antenna will not be blocked by metal, and
in a spot where it will see almost a horizon to horizon view. I have
also heard of persons wanting a gold sputtered tinted canopy for sun
reduction. That works great to keep the sun out, but it also will keep
out the rf signal if your GPS antenna is under the canopy. This is the
same if you have a Tin Oxide coating on the canopy.
Now, some good options for you. I sell a non-certified GPS antenna that
is amplified by your GPS receiver (all major brands of GPS receivers are
capable of this and will work well with this antenna) to boost the
received signal. It is VERY small, has a VERY low profile for little
drag, mounts through the skin (no magnet to goof-up the compass), works
very well on the glare shield because it is finished in black, will
work very well outside on the skin, and the best part is, it is only $75
delivered to you, if you are in the US.
I also sell a Certified aircraft, amplified GPS antenna if those of you
want that, but the cost is $250 delivered to you. It is made by the same
manufacture as the non-certified antenna, and has the exact same
internal antenna elements and amplifier. There are only two differences
between the antennas: the Certified unit has one additional band pass
filter in it to keep out an offending radio telephone frequency often
used on commercial and biz jets. It does have a slightly larger foot
print than the non-certified antenna, and it only comes in a white
finish.
I can also make up coax cables for you to any length using only the
best, lowest loss coax available (that is still flexable). I also will
put on the connectors for you that also are of the highest quality. You
will have to contact me for what you need in coax and I will give you
the price.
Gretz Aero
Warren Gretz
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, Colorado 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Van's throttle and mixture cables (6A) |
I searched the archives and only added more variables to my problem.
What I wanted to know is when throttle and mixture controls are placed
on a sub panel under the main panel, are the cables supplied by Van's
at 41.5" to long, to short or just right.
What I did find is that a lot of builders are using cables from
Aircraft Spruce or other sources. Why? Are Van's cables bad?
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 Doing lots of things I should have done when the doing
was easier.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
I heard Lyle Hefel say that his experiment was quite successful. He mounted
it about a half inch under the engine cowl, on a bracked mounted to the
firewall.
(If you don't know Lyle, he has a most excellent red and white military
scheme RV-8. Same scheme as his -6 and -4).
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 11:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: GPS Antenna Location
>
>
>For those of you with an RV-6 with a tip up canopy - Where are you
>installing your GPS antenna?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Beaton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bendix fuel injector |
Advantages of fuel injection over carburetion:
- more efficient fuel distribution at partial throttle settings
- freedom from carburetor icing
- negative G capability
- ability to lean past peak EGT
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4, O-360 with Airflow Performance injection, mounting the throttle
quadrant
>
> I was speaking with Bart Lalonde about an IO-360-B2B which would
>have the Bendix fuel injector. Are there any operational drawbacks to
>having the injector? Is it harder to start when cold, or need lots of
>maintenance or something?
>
> On the plus side I assume the unit would make the engine a bit more
>fuel efficent and possibly run a little smoother, yes? Certainly the
>chance of icing is reduced. Are there any other benefits?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV-8 questions |
-----Original Message-----
From: dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil <dipaula(at)pete.nit.disa.mil>
Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: More RV-8 questions
>>
>you don't seem to take the meaning of my question. allow me to give
>an example.
>
>suppose you are in relatively straight flight, no pitch up. the wings
>should basically be experiencing 1 G, right?
>
>now, suppose you start rolling the plane at maximum rate. i don't see
>why each wing should carry greatly increased G loads as it is rising and
>then greatly degreased G loads as it crosses the top and is descending.
>that is, i can see how it is moving, but i don't see how it is subject
>to varying loads that way when the fuselage and attach points are
>also rotating at the same rate.
>
>if you have a flagpole sticking out from a building and put a weight on
>the end, it is subject to a load similar to a wing in straight flight.
>but if you hinge the flagpole so it simply moves when there is a weight
>on the end, isn't that similar to a plane rolling?
I'll take a stab at this despite my amateurish grasp of physics.
First some rules. (1) Any object with mass, when in motion, contains
kinetic energy. (2) Energy is needed to accelerate (change direction, stop
or increase velocity) an object with mass. (3) Drag is a force which acts to
decelerate a body in motion. (4) The creation of lift also creates
additional drag.
When you roll an airplane, either in level flight or turning, you impart
lift to one wing and reduce lift to the other. The drag imparts a load to
the wing and airframe that it is rigidly attached to. That load
(acceleration in a different direction) is g force.
Flight is a continual balancing act and exercise in energy management,
kinetic energy vs. drag and gravity.
Regards,
Doug Hormann
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)Juno.com> |
Yes, I'm building a RV-6, and Scott Jordan (Wappingers Falls) is building
a RV-8.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (fuselage on gear, working on canopy and will be working on engine
installation)
>
>Is there anyone in the Poughkeepsie NY area building a RV-6 or 8 ? Or
>does
>anyone in this area have one complete? If so , could you contact me.
>Ken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q #591
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | counterbalance cosmetics |
Just thinking about this same problem on my -4. I have seen several -4/-6's
that have just used bondo and have looked really nice. Bondo would be easy
to do, but seems kinda heavy, what about epoxy super fil? Any Ideas on how
well this stuff bonds? It seems that if it does comes lose, it is too
soft/brittle to jam the elevator, or am I asking for trouble?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
Hi Guys
I've been flying with my GPS under the cowling for over a year with no
problems.
I do have a cool vent tube blowing air on the antenna. My RV-6 is a dark
metallic blue. Could'nt
see putting that ugly white thing ( antenna ) on the outside stinking
out like a sore thumb.
Dwain
N164DH
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | C/S prop knob mount hole |
Does anyone know the diameter of the hole to mount the Van's blue C/S prop
knob? I don't have one yet, and my panel is being cut.
thanks..
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
Mike,
He's not on the list, but there's a builder in our group (Home Wing, in the
Portland area), Richard Wood, who is building an 8 with I think an S-Tec
System 30. E-mail me directly if you want his number.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, fuselage
Home Wing - Van's Air Force
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 8:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-TEC in an 8
>
>Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
>people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
>have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV-8Q #591
>Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Antenna Location(be careful) |
>
>I would caution anyone wanting to install a GPS
>antenna under the cowl...
>If you paint the fiberglass you will most likely keep
>out, or reduce the rf signal getting to the antenna.
You would think, but many people have found this to NOT be the case.
Yes, the GPS antenna says "do not paint" but many people (including
someone from Van's if I remember correctly) have painted them with no
degradation. And several people (Tracy Saylor for example) have put
their GPS antenna under the cowl with no problems whatsoever. That's
what I'm planning on doing after seeing Tracy's setup and talking to him
about his experiences. Now, metalic paint with silica chips is another
story...
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
I put a 30 in my 8. Get it with control rods on each servo, not cables. No
problem.
Stan Mehrhoff
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 10:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-TEC in an 8
>
>Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
>people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
>have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV-8Q #591
>Issaquah, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Kathy Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | rvlist--range markings |
What technique has anyone used for marking ranges
on guages not already marked? How does one safely
remove the glass, and has anyone used paint, such as
model paint, in deference to tape? We have Westach
gauges and RCAllen instruments primarily. How about
a sun-resistant paint? Flat tone plastic model paint,
maybe even over a white base coat to keep the color
bright...?
Working diligently on the panel of our half-completed
RV6-AQ in Pueblo, Colorado
Bill and Kathy Peck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
In a message dated 1/28/99 12:18:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, kitfox(at)gte.net
writes:
<< Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>>
I've basically completed installation of a System 30 in my -8. I used the -6
installation kit but had to make a few modifications. If you'd like details I
can give them to you off line.
Rick McBride
rickrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft noise in comm radio. |
>I had originally located the mic and phone jacks to the comm radio to the
cage structure behind the pilot's left shoulder, using a pair of insulated
adel clamps to attach the simple angle bracket.. This turned out to be a
nuciance, and reminded me uncomfortably of John Denvers problem. So I
decided to move the jack assembly to a more convenient position, which
turned out to be at the rear of the seat back rail tab. I simply drilled a
hole in the angle and used a slightly longer bolt to mount the seat rails.
>
>The next time I turned on the radio, planning to go flying and test a trim
change, I heard the unmistakable noise of the aircraft alternator in the
head set. Not only that, I discovered that there was suddenly an
interaction between the strobe lights and the Apollo SL60 nav/comm, and
that the nav display blinked on and off in response to the strobe flashes!
>
>It was apparent that I had unintentionally picked up a lot of ground
currents in the shield of the headset cable, and introduced some
undesirable coupling to other parts of the electrical system. Mounting the
headset jack bracket on a standoff solved the problem, and my radios are
once again quiet.
I've reposted this item to several list-servers . . . including
some of the plastic airplanes interest groups. It's important to
avoid any local "grounding" of headset and microphone jacks, even
to a metal instrument panel in a composite airplane. Hard paper
extruded washers are available to provide insulation of the
jacks from their mounting plate, or you can mount the jacks
on a thin sheet of glass-epoxy like etched circuit boards.
We stock the washers too @ $1 per jack, postage paid.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
< When deprived of facts, >
< our fantasies are generally >
< much worse than reality. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
Keith;
Having just finished painting my RV-8 and being very happy with the
results, I would like to recommend PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel. They claim
this is what is used on 90% of new cars (except most of them use clear
coat). It has a VOC of 4.2 lbs per gal. It is also one of the least
expensive paints, yet with hardener is supposed to be extremely durable.
If the auto paint has anti-run qualities compared to aircraft paint that
is good, because unless you are a seasoned painter you need all the
anti-run help you can get! I got 3 or 4 runs on mine which will be
sanded and buffed out later. For my RV-8, it cost me a total of $485 for
ALL the paint supplies. It took a gallon of DP-48 epoxy primer, and
about 5 quarts of the main body paint, and a quart each of the trim
colors. This was two full coats, you might be able to get by with one
coat, but durability and longevity would drop, and it would be more
difficult to get good coverage, but it can be done. In my opinion, paint
is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as resale
value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow for the
paint.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
<73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> writes:
><73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
>
>Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives and
>found
>lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
>
>Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto and
>aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it
>contains
>more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase
>its
>weight.
>
>If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much for
>a
>typical RV6?
>
>Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint
>thickness?
>
>In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and
>Sikkens
>Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon. I'm
>guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I
>wonder if
>I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight per
>gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract the
>VOC
>weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
>
> With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy
>already so
>I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
>
>Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based
>product,,
>based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for
>System
>Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished by
>A.F.S.
>(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its great
>(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the list
>have
>experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety aspect
>but
>for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
>
>Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights - adjusting
>those is coming up and the comments really help!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Busick <rbusick(at)netmagic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
> In my opinion, paint
> is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as resale
> value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow for the
> paint.
>
Good post from Von on painting. Just to relate my experiences at the
local airport. I have a friend with a really well built RV-6, but he
left it painted only in an ugly primer. The primer makes it look bad.
Often times a transient RV-6 is tied down at the airport right next to
my friends and it has a super paint job. Being an Rv-6 builder I have
looked at the construction of both aircraft, the contruction of non
painted RV is far superior to the painted RV. But, the crowd always
goes over to the painted one, and when I mention that the aircraft right
next to the painted one is an RV also, the response is which airplane?
When I show it too them they say, you are kidding?
These comments are from pilots who should know that a good paint job
does not mean it is a quality airplane. To save weight, I am a proponent
of no or minimal paint, But, If I were to sell my RV I would have the
best paint job possible. Also I wonder if the non flying public
(passangers) would consider a poorly painted or a non painted (not
polished, ugly looking surface) aircraft as an unsafe?
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rvlist--range markings |
<< What technique has anyone used for marking ranges
on guages not already marked? >>
Bill,
I wont say what I did was right or wrong, but I used the colored tape
that comes in different size circles. I purchased it one year at sun'n'fun
from one of the vendors. I would imagine spruce,chief or some of the
instrument shops would carry this stuff. As I said before I dont know if this
is for everyone but I removed the glass from my airspeed indicator and
installed my own markings accordingly. My airspeed indicator is acurate and I
think the markings are very profesional looking.
Another option would be to send your instruments to a shop like Century
instruments and have them put the markings on for you.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: C/S prop knob mount hole |
3/4" = .750
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 11:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: C/S prop knob mount hole
>
>Does anyone know the diameter of the hole to mount the Van's blue C/S prop
>knob? I don't have one yet, and my panel is being cut.
>
>thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: counterbalance cosmetics |
Huh? Are we talking about the counterbalance?
> Just thinking about this same problem on my -4. I have seen several -4/-6's
> that have just used bondo and have looked really nice. Bondo would be easy
> to do, but seems kinda heavy, what about epoxy super fil?
You are worrying about covering the *LEAD* with something too heavy??? I wonder
what can be done???
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
| Subject: | auto versus aircraft paint |
Listers,
I was wanting to get additional feedback on painting, as painting is soon
approaching my project. I was wondering what the advantages/disadvantages
are of basecoat-clearcoat paint jobs are. Have any of you painted your RV's
this way? Are HVLP systems worth their purchase price? I also don't have
the cleanest shop, either. I was thinking of fashioning a paint booth out
of plastic sheeting and box fans. Can I get good results doing it this way?
How important is temperature on painting?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 doing gear leg fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Houston Area Builders? |
"Thomas W. McCausland" wrote:
>
>
> I'm considering building an RV-6A, and was wondering if there were
> any current builders in the Houston / Missouri City area, here on the
> list.
The Houston area has many RVs flying and under construction. I have an
RV-6 that has been flying for 18 months and I have 180+ extremely
satisfying hours on it. I built it up at David Wayne Hooks airport
(DWH) in northwest Houston area where we built more than 16 RVs under
one roof between 1990 to present. There are currently ten flying RVs on
DWH that are active weekend fly-to-eat aircraft! I know of one RV-6A
project at the Sugarland airport (SGR) and I believe there are some RVs
down at Houston Southwest airport (AXH) in Arcola. Come and visit EAA
chapter 12 on the second Wednesday of each month at AXH airport. Several
members are building RVs in that chapter. I belong to EAA chapter 774
out at Sport Flyers Field in Brookshire. They meet on the third Thursday
of each month at the residential hangar of Laverne & Leonard
Milholland. That chapter has over 100 members and about half of them
are building a plane of some kind or other. At last count, there
were 8 RVs being built. There are several flying RVs at West Houston
airport (IWS) off I-10 and Hwy 6 area. I know of 4 flying RVs and at
least 2 project RVs up at Montgomery Co. airport (CXO) in Conroe. There
are also several RV projects southeast of Houston in LaPorte, League
City, Lamarque, Texas City and down on Galveston Island. You might call
Van's Aircraft and get a ZIP code sorted list of RV builders in the
Houston area. You might find that your neighbor is building in his
garage! I hope this gives you some insight as to the extreme popularity
of this aircraft. I am up at DWH airport every weekend. You are welcome
to visit us sometime. Our hangar (100' x 80') still has one RV-6A in
the finishing stage and four other flying RV-4, my RV-6 and two RV-6As
as hangar tenants.
Once you focus on the RVs, there are no other aircraft!
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: bendix fuel injector |
In a message dated 1/27/99 7:01:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes:
> I was speaking with Bart Lalonde about an IO-360-B2B which would
> have the Bendix fuel injector. Are there any operational drawbacks to
> having the injector? Is it harder to start when cold, or need lots of
> maintenance or something?
>
> On the plus side I assume the unit would make the engine a bit more
> fuel efficent and possibly run a little smoother, yes? Certainly the
> chance of icing is reduced. Are there any other benefits?
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
I have an IO-320-B1A on my -6A. Someone's already posted the benefits to fuel
injection, so I'll go over a couple of negative's that I'm dealing with on my
installation. In the summer during high temp (>90 F) operations, during a
taxi-back after landing, the fuel will heat soak and the idle gets rough in
short order. I haven't had any problems getting it restarted when heat soaked,
but the engine runs very rough for the first few minutes after a hot start. If
I'm able to do a run-up right away, it will burn off the hot fuel in the lines
forward of the firewall, and then the idle is ok, as long as I don't spend
much time fiddling around before takeoff. I've installed some heat sleeving on
the injector lines, and this helped some, but extended taxi times lead to a
rough idle. I know that Airflow Performance sells a fuel purge by-pass valve
that can be installed just forward of the flow divider, that will allow the
hot fuel to be purged before starting. I've also seen the same type of valve
for sale in a Summit Racing catalog for $100. This problem doesn't bother me
bad enough to spend the money for the purge valve setup. I'm aware of the
problem, but it's embarrassing to taxi out from refueling with a rough
sounding engine.
I've done some research on this phenomenon, and found several periodicals
and engine operating books that seem to indicate that this is a common malady
on tightly cowled fuel injected engines. One good source is the Sacramento
Skyranch Engineering manual. Maybe Mr. Bowhay could comment on this?
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
I have an HVLP paint gun that works with 'normal' air compressors. It was
$150 at Harbor Freight.
Although I have never used other guns, I think it works great. Despite my
total lack of spray painting
experience, I was able to a good job when priming my parts. Once the gun was
properly adjusted, I
had absolutely no problems with runs or overspray.
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
RV-8 #47
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 10:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: auto versus aircraft paint
>
>Listers,
>
>I was wanting to get additional feedback on painting, as painting is soon
>approaching my project. I was wondering what the advantages/disadvantages
>are of basecoat-clearcoat paint jobs are. Have any of you painted your
RV's
>this way? Are HVLP systems worth their purchase price? I also don't have
>the cleanest shop, either. I was thinking of fashioning a paint booth out
>of plastic sheeting and box fans. Can I get good results doing it this
way?
>How important is temperature on painting?
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 doing gear leg fairings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Van's throttle and mixture cables (6A) |
> I searched the archives and only added more variables to my problem.
> What I wanted to know is when throttle and mixture controls are placed
> on a sub panel under the main panel, are the cables supplied by Van's
> at 41.5" to long, to short or just right.
>
> What I did find is that a lot of builders are using cables from
> Aircraft Spruce or other sources. Why? Are Van's cables bad?
This is a VERY good question and one that I have planned to post something
about for a while. I guess this is as good a time as any.
First off, Van's sells several types of cables: bowden-style, wire end
(CT-A part numbers), fat-Knob, RV-6 trim style w/ 10-32 end (CT-23 part
numbers), and ACS A-750/A-800 style w/ telescoping 10-32 end (CT BLK, CT
RED, CT BLUE part numbers.).
I installed ACS type because I wanted the "certified" style knobs (and
also I am not partial to vernier throttles). I assume that is the type
you are asking about.
Anyhow, the answer to your question is, NO. The 42.5" throttle and
41.5" mixture cables will be TOO SHORT unless you have a vertical center
console per the plans, and even then you will have to use the most
direct possible cable routing the for it to work. I discovered this
when working with Vans to develop a new throttle/mixture bracket for the
O-360 that would work with the ACS type cables for both the throttle and
mixture. I told them how long the cables would need to be to accomodate
builders who put the knobs in a horizontal subpanel or up in the panel
itself, and I think they're going to change them or add longer ones to
the catalog, but I don't know if they're doing so yet.
This is the reason people have been ordering custom from ACS. I ended
up doing that myself. Unfortunately this can be a bit tricky -- you
have to know exactly the throw you need as well as the length from the
panel to the bracket attach point, and from the attach point to the end
of the cable, and it takes some figuring to come up with the right
combination that puts the attach point in the right place. Also it
costs a fair bit more for the custom lengths.
Hopefully you can get the length you need from Van's, then you won't
have to worry about doing a custom cable. Take it from me, it's a pain.
If you do go custom, I strongly recommend starting with a h/w store
lawnmower cable or similar to use to measure the length you need before
ordering a custom one. You may think you have the right with a
measuring tape but the way the cable twists and turns can defy accurate
measurement with a tape, and it's best to have it no longer than needed.
Also, when specifying throw, be sure to take into account any reduction
of throw due to snaking around of the cable. You can lose up to 3/8"
throw if you have a lot of bends in the cable. The ACS catalog (pg 146
& 147) has specs for these cables that include a figure for reduction
in throw per 360 degrees of bend.
Note that the new O-360 carb bracket (which is not yet in the catalog),
will accomodate both the mixture and throttle ACS style cables (CT RED
MIXTURE and CT BLK THROTTLE). The older bracket (the one that's in the
catalog now) will handle the CT-BLK THROTTLE but is set up for a wire
style cable for the mixture.
The CT BLUE VPROP cable will work fine just about anywhere you put
the knob, the only trick is where to put the hole in the firewall.
Contact me on-line or off if you have other questions about this.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Waldo Love <waldo(at)carolina.net> |
| Subject: | New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder |
Hello All,
Just to say hello. I'll be lurking and would like to contact RV-6
builders relatively close to Rockingham, NC. Thinking of building the
six or the nine - quick build.
Best Regards,
Waldo Love
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rvlist--range markings |
In a message dated 1/28/99 3:40:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, peck(at)amigo.net
writes:
<< What technique has anyone used for marking ranges
on guages not already marked? How does one safely
remove the glass, and has anyone used paint, such as
model paint, in deference to tape? We have Westach
gauges and RCAllen instruments primarily. How about
a sun-resistant paint? Flat tone plastic model paint,
maybe even over a white base coat to keep the color
bright...? >>
If it's GAUGES you are referring to, ACS has decals for the glass listed on
page 315. I don't know what a GUAGE is.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: rvlist--range markings |
> What technique has anyone used for marking ranges
> on guages not already marked?
[snip]
> We have Westach
> gauges and RCAllen instruments primarily.
Westach told me they'd re-mark Westach brand gauges if I sent them to
them. I don't remember the price they quoted but as I recall it was
quite reasonable.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High performance engine overhauls |
| From: | "Stephen C. MacInnis" <stevemac1(at)Juno.com> |
Thought I'd pass on a good experience I've had with a local overhaul
shop. Jeff Harper of Tex Air Aircraft Engines in Houston and I spent
about 2 weeks on and off preparing and assembling my IO-360A3B6D. All
the major components had been previously overhauled and yellow tagged by
specialty shops. Jeff double cut the exhaust valves, balanced all the
reciprocating parts, balanced the crankshaft, flowed the cylinders, and
smoothed out the ports. He painted most of the interior parts with
various high-temp coatings that he's really sold on. I spent more time
washing what I thought were already clean parts than I care to remember!
The amount of time and care spent on the actual assembly was a pleasure
to witness. Nothing was taken for granted and I have zero concern about
the integrity of my engine. Anybody anywhere near Houston who needs an
engine overhauled would be foolish not to talk with Jeff.
Steve MacInnis RV6 mounting cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aussie builders RV8 |
To the Aussie RV8 builders.
I would like to get in contact with any other Australians who are
building an 8 at the moment.Please feel free to email me directly.
Thanks Peter Winter
Victoria Australia
p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
Mike,
For what it's worth, I don't plan on closing my wings until absolutely
necessary, which will be a few years at the rate I'm going, just so I can
postpone the decision on an S-Tec installation.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
>
>Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
>people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
>have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV-8Q #591
>Issaquah, WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
In a message dated 1/28/99 8:57:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rbusick(at)netmagic.net writes:
<< Also I wonder if the non flying public
(passangers) would consider a poorly painted or a non painted (not
polished, ugly looking surface) aircraft as an unsafe? >>
I am quite sure that this is the case with "most" of the general non-aviation
public.
Of course, I myself have flown in commercial planes that needed a paint job
and/or a
good cleaning, and my thoughts were that I hoped that trimming the budget in
this area allowed them to perform quality maintenance in other areas. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <jhenley(at)nuc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
Von,
Did you alodine the skin first or just rough it up with scotchbright?
I am debating on whether to go with the epoxy primer or the 1791 wash
primer which is self etching. I am leaning toward the wash primer for
health reasons since I don't want to buy a forced air breathing apparatus.
John Henley, 140 hrs, RV6
----------
> From: n41va(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: auto versus aircraft paint
> Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 10:10 AM
>
>
> Keith;
> Having just finished painting my RV-8 and being very happy with the
> results, I would like to recommend PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel. They claim
> this is what is used on 90% of new cars (except most of them use clear
> coat). It has a VOC of 4.2 lbs per gal. It is also one of the least
> expensive paints, yet with hardener is supposed to be extremely durable.
> If the auto paint has anti-run qualities compared to aircraft paint that
> is good, because unless you are a seasoned painter you need all the
> anti-run help you can get! I got 3 or 4 runs on mine which will be
> sanded and buffed out later. For my RV-8, it cost me a total of $485 for
> ALL the paint supplies. It took a gallon of DP-48 epoxy primer, and
> about 5 quarts of the main body paint, and a quart each of the trim
> colors. This was two full coats, you might be able to get by with one
> coat, but durability and longevity would drop, and it would be more
> difficult to get good coverage, but it can be done. In my opinion, paint
> is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as resale
> value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow for the
> paint.
>
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> writes:
> ><73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
> >
> >Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives and
> >found
> >lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
> >
> >Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto and
> >aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it
> >contains
> >more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase
> >its
> >weight.
> >
> >If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much for
> >a
> >typical RV6?
> >
> >Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint
> >thickness?
> >
> >In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and
> >Sikkens
> >Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon. I'm
> >guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I
> >wonder if
> >I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight per
> >gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract the
> >VOC
> >weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
> >
> > With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy
> >already so
> >I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
> >
> >Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based
> >product,,
> >based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for
> >System
> >Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished by
> >A.F.S.
> >(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its great
> >(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the list
> >have
> >experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety aspect
> >but
> >for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
> >
> >Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights - adjusting
> >those is coming up and the comments really help!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Bill Knight crash |
I was reading a few articles on the Marchetti SF-260 (my real dream
plane I have to admit), and the article Bill Knight wrote about his love
affair with (and purchase of) a SF-260 is an awesome read. It's located
at: http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/7348/bk.html. Sadly, I also saw
references to his crash last year in a -6 which included a picture of
the plane after it was pulled from the creek:
http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/7348/knight.jpg.
Does anyone know what happened to the FAA investigation of
Viagra-induced problems?
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Hope I am not violating the rules of the list, don't think so as this all
relates to the RV's.
Over the years have flown thousands of hours on floats on many different
types of a/c. To name a few, DHC Beaver, DHC Beaver amphib, DHC Otter, Twin
Beech D18, Grumman Goose, Fairchild 71, DGA 15 Howard, Cessna 195,C180,
C185, C206, C206 amphib, SeaBee, Stinson 108 and others.
Flying floats has probably given me the greatest sense of freedom with an
aircraft. With the ability to land in the thousands of lakes and rivers in
our country and putting your mind at ease knowing that with the number of
lakes we have in a lot of the areas there was really no need to get too
excited if the engine quit.
When I started the RV I didn't think much about putting it on floats but
guess it was tucked away in the back of my mind because I hung the O360 and
constant speed up front. After flying it for awhile and seeing how it
performed realized that it had some potential for floats.
Decided to mention it to Van, well he just kind of looked sideways at me
and am sure was wondering if I really had all my marbles. Anyway after
explaining how we were going to approach the project and the engineering
involved I went away without him saying no.
We started out by getting a qualified engineer to do a analysis of the
centre section to see if it was capable of standing the extra loads and
stresses of a float operation. It came out with flying colors. From there
it was fairly straight forward to build and install the floats.
With it in the water and ready for the first flight, on start up taxiing
and turning and all around water handleing is as good or better than any
float plane I have flown. It is out of the water in no wind (glassy
conditions) at standard temperature and 1100 ft elevation in 14 seconds
fully loaded. Initial rate of climb at full throttle is 1000-1200 ft. per
min and cruises at 145-150 mph indicated at 8-10000 ft.
Flew it to Oshkosh in 1994 on the straight floats and was awarded "Best
Metal Float Plane" You can see a picture of it on the cover of the July/94
Kitplanes and a write-up.
Because of the good performance on the straight floats decided to go the
final step and develop the amphib version. Having flown the Beaver and C206
on amphibs grew to dislike them because of the extra weight and what they
did to the performance. By taking a little different approach was able to
get the amphib gear into them for a total installed weight of only 101
extra pounds. The climb and cruise are affected by the extra weight and
drag but can still count on 145 and 900 ft rate of climb. Have no problem
getting to 10000 ft in 15 -20 minutes in climb cruise configuration.
We have since as was mentioned carried out a extensive flight test program
with over 400 take-offs and landings on the airport cycling the gear each
time and some deliberate crosswind and hard landings. All the amphib
components were removed and inspected at this point and no unusual wear was
found. Flight characteristic's were also carefully exlpored at this time
and nothing unusual was found. Again the entire amphib gear is engineered
as close as we can get to certified standards. We feel that carefully built
and maintained this is a good product.
Let me tell you that the RV6 is one tough bird , with all the test work and
rough water work there is not a single smoking rivet or any sign of stress.
For those with any interest as I posted the other day, these floats will be
available for the RV6 and 6A in either kit or competed form in the next few
months with prices hopefully available in 60-90 days. Also hope to have
them available for the RV8 in the near future.
No modifications are required when building to accomodate the float
installation with the exception of the 6A you would order the F engine
mount from Van's.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
A little slow on this one, but thought I should post it. It's a shame to
cut any extra holes in these pretty birds if we don't have to and follows
the "keep it light and simple policy".
This has worked for me: With the inspection hole cut as per the drawings
reach in with your right hand and get the rod end bearing lined up as close
as you can. Then with the bolt held in a flexible mechanical finger ( say
about 12inches long) push the bolt into place with the head end away from
you. By moving the rod end around with your right hand this can be done
easily.
Leaving the mechanical finger hooked up, with your right hand reach in and
install the washer and nut. Remove the mechanical finger then reach in with
your right hand and put a box end wrench on the nut. While holding it with
right hand with a socket on a rachet with an extension put it on the bolt
and tighten. Your left hand will be outside doing this. Ten minutes should
take care of it, five after a bit of practice.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rvlist--range markings |
Small bits of various colored vinyl tape on the glass works very well. They
can be remove and re-positioned as needed.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rvlist--range markings
>
>In a message dated 1/28/99 3:40:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, peck(at)amigo.net
>writes:
>
><< What technique has anyone used for marking ranges
> on guages not already marked? How does one safely
> remove the glass, and has anyone used paint, such as
> model paint, in deference to tape? We have Westach
> gauges and RCAllen instruments primarily. How about
> a sun-resistant paint? Flat tone plastic model paint,
> maybe even over a white base coat to keep the color
> bright...? >>
>
>If it's GAUGES you are referring to, ACS has decals for the glass listed on
>page 315. I don't know what a GUAGE is.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal hint. |
great idea!, just like decorating a cake!!
Peter Winter wrote:
>
> Hi listers,
>
> A mate of mine building a Corby Starlet gave me a good hint for the use of
> proseal.
>
> He is a chef and he decided that proseal was about the same consistency as
> chocolate and cream,so obviously he used the same applicator as one would use
to
> decorate the a cake...you know the type of thing that you squeeze the cream or
> chocolate through.
> he told me this was a great way to apply the proseal and was not messy at
> all.......I suppose you would have to be a chef to qualify that
> statement.....anyway i thought this might help someone.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter Winter
> Australia
>
> RV8 wings in progress.
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder |
Waldo, building a 6A in Greensboro, NC. Your welcome to come take a
look...not a quick build though
-----Original Message-----
From: Waldo Love <waldo(at)carolina.net>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 5:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder
>
>Hello All,
>
>Just to say hello. I'll be lurking and would like to contact RV-6
>builders relatively close to Rockingham, NC. Thinking of building the
>six or the nine - quick build.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Waldo Love
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: battery cable/battery box |
> Ok, I'm stumped. In my QB, the battery box is already done, and I can not
> find any reference in the archives or the manuals as to where to have the
> wires exit the battery box to go to ground and to the starter relay. Also,
> I am assuming that most builders put the starter relay very close to the
> battery inside the firewall. Correct?
I haven't seen any responses to this one so I'll give it a go....
No there doesn't seem to be much in the way of guidelines for this.
I've seen it done various ways, and I'm not sure there is any "standard"
way people are doing it. Some people go out the top of the box, some
out the side, most with grommets close to the fwd edge and often with
slots from the grommet holes to the edge so you can get the box out
without having to disconnect the battery.
I did something a little different with a two piece deal I made out of
nylon and put in the right fwd side of the box I made it out of 1/8"
thick nylon. It is in two halves, one of which can be removed by taking
out some screws, allowing you to remove the box without disconnecting
wires. It holds the wire in place quite well and makes for a nice
installation; if you want more info on how I did this, contact me off
line.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: breathing apparatus |
John and listers:
for a descent fresh air breathing thingy, take a cartridge respirator. Hook a
small 1/4 or 3/8" hose fitting to it and feed fresh air to it. Use a DRY
DIAPHRAM compressor so that you are not pumpimg oil mist to your mask. Set the
pump out in the back yard, UP WIND, from your paint site and connect them with
a
length of soft flexible plastic hose. Tape up the cannisters so that all of your
breathing air comes in through the hose from outside. One of those small 12
volt tire pump compressors might do the job. Try it and let the List know your
results. Phil
John Henley wrote:
>
> Von,
> Did you alodine the skin first or just rough it up with scotchbright?
> I am debating on whether to go with the epoxy primer or the 1791 wash
> primer which is self etching. I am leaning toward the wash primer for
> health reasons since I don't want to buy a forced air breathing apparatus.
> John Henley, 140 hrs, RV6
>
> ----------
> > From: n41va(at)Juno.com
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: auto versus aircraft paint
> > Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 10:10 AM
> >
> >
> > Keith;
> > Having just finished painting my RV-8 and being very happy with the
> > results, I would like to recommend PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel. They claim
> > this is what is used on 90% of new cars (except most of them use clear
> > coat). It has a VOC of 4.2 lbs per gal. It is also one of the least
> > expensive paints, yet with hardener is supposed to be extremely durable.
> > If the auto paint has anti-run qualities compared to aircraft paint that
> > is good, because unless you are a seasoned painter you need all the
> > anti-run help you can get! I got 3 or 4 runs on mine which will be
> > sanded and buffed out later. For my RV-8, it cost me a total of $485 for
> > ALL the paint supplies. It took a gallon of DP-48 epoxy primer, and
> > about 5 quarts of the main body paint, and a quart each of the trim
> > colors. This was two full coats, you might be able to get by with one
> > coat, but durability and longevity would drop, and it would be more
> > difficult to get good coverage, but it can be done. In my opinion, paint
> > is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as resale
> > value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow for the
> > paint.
> >
> > Von Alexander
> > N41VA(at)juno.com
> >
> > <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> writes:
> > ><73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
> > >
> > >Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives and
> > >found
> > >lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
> > >
> > >Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto and
> > >aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it
> > >contains
> > >more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase
> > >its
> > >weight.
> > >
> > >If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much for
> > >a
> > >typical RV6?
> > >
> > >Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint
> > >thickness?
> > >
> > >In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and
> > >Sikkens
> > >Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon. I'm
> > >guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I
> > >wonder if
> > >I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight per
> > >gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract the
> > >VOC
> > >weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
> > >
> > > With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy
> > >already so
> > >I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
> > >
> > >Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based
> > >product,,
> > >based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for
> > >System
> > >Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished by
> > >A.F.S.
> > >(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its great
> > >(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the list
> > >have
> > >experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety aspect
> > >but
> > >for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
> > >
> > >Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights - adjusting
> > >those is coming up and the comments really help!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
Steve
The roll servo will go just aft of the right foot well for the back seater.
Stan
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: S-TEC in an 8
>
>Mike,
>
>For what it's worth, I don't plan on closing my wings until absolutely
>necessary, which will be a few years at the rate I'm going, just so I can
>postpone the decision on an S-Tec installation.
>
>Steve Johnson
>
>RV-8 #80121
>
>
>>
>>Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
>>people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
>>have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>>
>>Mike Robbins
>>RV-8Q #591
>>Issaquah, WA
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Any Headsets out there needing new homes.....?? |
Hi,
In the past I've seen a few listings for used headsets posted by folks
wanting to upgrade theirs. Two of my friends have just started taking
Private Pilot training and are looking for good used headsets that are
reasonably priced.
Please reply to me with the information and I'll forward email to them.
I appreciate any help in getting these guys a headset.....
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A
paul.and.ien(at)worldnet.att.net
732-721-2838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Working on hooking up the pitot tube. I am going to use the flexible
plastic line to hook up the pitot instead of using the aluminum line.
Any ideas on the types of tubing that can be used? It would be nice to
not have to order some high dollar stuff when hardware store tubing
would work. Has anyone tried the plastic tubing that is used to hook up
icemakers or other types of tubing?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill Knight crash - address fix |
Delete the last period (.) in the site address to make it work.
>
>I was reading a few articles on the Marchetti SF-260 (my real dream
>plane I have to admit), and the article Bill Knight wrote about his love
>affair with (and purchase of) a SF-260 is an awesome read. It's located
>at: http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/7348/bk.html. Sadly, I also saw
>references to his crash last year in a -6 which included a picture of
>the plane after it was pulled from the creek:
>http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/7348/knight.jpg.
>
>Does anyone know what happened to the FAA investigation of
>Viagra-induced problems?
>
>Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
>San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
>President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
>http://www.skybound.com/BARV
>http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto versus aircraft paint |
John;
I used scotchbrite first, followed by the acid wash which is applied
easiest with a scotchbrite. This way you a double scotchbrite effect.
This was followed by DP-48 epoxy primer. The paint shop says a regular
respirator will work fine for the DP-48, apparently it is not as toxic as
the enamels with hardeners.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Von,
> Did you alodine the skin first or just rough it up with
>scotchbright?
>I am debating on whether to go with the epoxy primer or the 1791 wash
>primer which is self etching. I am leaning toward the wash primer for
>health reasons since I don't want to buy a forced air breathing
>apparatus.
> John Henley, 140 hrs, RV6
>
>----------
>> From: n41va(at)Juno.com
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: auto versus aircraft paint
>> Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 10:10 AM
>>
>>
>> Keith;
>> Having just finished painting my RV-8 and being very happy with the
>> results, I would like to recommend PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel. They
>claim
>> this is what is used on 90% of new cars (except most of them use
>clear
>> coat). It has a VOC of 4.2 lbs per gal. It is also one of the least
>> expensive paints, yet with hardener is supposed to be extremely
>durable.
>> If the auto paint has anti-run qualities compared to aircraft paint
>that
>> is good, because unless you are a seasoned painter you need all the
>> anti-run help you can get! I got 3 or 4 runs on mine which will be
>> sanded and buffed out later. For my RV-8, it cost me a total of $485
>for
>> ALL the paint supplies. It took a gallon of DP-48 epoxy primer, and
>> about 5 quarts of the main body paint, and a quart each of the trim
>> colors. This was two full coats, you might be able to get by with
>one
>> coat, but durability and longevity would drop, and it would be more
>> difficult to get good coverage, but it can be done. In my opinion,
>paint
>> is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as
>resale
>> value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow
>for the
>> paint.
>>
>> Von Alexander
>> N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>> <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> writes:
>> ><73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
>> >
>> >Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives
>and
>> >found
>> >lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
>> >
>> >Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto
>and
>> >aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it
>> >contains
>> >more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which increase
>
>> >its
>> >weight.
>> >
>> >If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how much
>for
>> >a
>> >typical RV6?
>> >
>> >Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint
>> >thickness?
>> >
>> >In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept and
>
>> >Sikkens
>> >Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon.
>I'm
>> >guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I
>> >wonder if
>> >I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total weight
>per
>> >gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract
>the
>> >VOC
>> >weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
>> >
>> > With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy
>> >already so
>> >I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
>> >
>> >Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based
>> >product,,
>> >based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives for
>
>> >System
>> >Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished
>by
>> >A.F.S.
>> >(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its
>great
>> >(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the
>list
>> >have
>> >experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety
>aspect
>> >but
>> >for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
>> >
>> >Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights -
>adjusting
>> >those is coming up and the comments really help!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Float Story |
Dear Mr. Bowhay,
When I was deciding what kit airplane to build I had a tough time deciding
wether to build a plane to put on floats or a high performance plane like the
RV8A I am building now. I did see pictures of your RV6 on floats but I never
imagined I would ever see the floats offered to the rest of us RV builders.
It will be many years before I am finished my plane but putting it on floats
will be the first project I undertake once it is done. With this in mind is
there any special preperations I should undertake in building the airplane in
foresight of water operations? Thank You,
Claudio Scremin
Scremm(at)aol.com
RV8a #80304
Eliot, ME (Formerly of Vancouver, B.C.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: S-tec 30 in a RV-8. |
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 8:48 PM
Subject: S-tec 30 in a RV-8.
>I installey a S-tec 30 in my RV-8. The pitch control servo mounts behind
>the baggage conpartment and in front of the elevator horn. I connected it
>with a solid rod. The roll servo mounts just aft of the right footwell for
>the backseater. Watch out for the manual trim connection. The roll servo
>connects with a solid rod to the control stick mount, I forgot the part
>number. You don't have to buy a install kit. I have a lot of rods with a
>clevis type end on they I will send you for free, you pay postage and buy
me
>a beer at sun and fun or osh. If you have any questions give me a call
>
>Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder |
I'm building an 8 in Advance (8A7). Does anyone in the Piedmont area
have an interest in forming a builders group? Is there already one?
-Larry
larry(at)bowen.com
http://larry.bowen.com
RV-8 N9XS, emp. almost done.
---Paul Riedlinger wrote:
>
>
> Waldo, building a 6A in Greensboro, NC. Your welcome to come take a
> look...not a quick build though
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Waldo Love <waldo(at)carolina.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 5:06 PM
> Subject: RV-List: New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder
>
>
> >
> >Hello All,
> >
> >Just to say hello. I'll be lurking and would like to contact RV-6
> >builders relatively close to Rockingham, NC. Thinking of building
the
> >six or the nine - quick build.
> >
> >Best Regards,
> >
> >Waldo Love
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Mechanical finger |
Now here is a product I could use inserting bolts into the tail cone that
hold the VS on. I knew such a product had to exist. Where can I get one?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Then with the bolt held in a flexible mechanical finger (
say
about 12inches long) push the bolt into place with the head
end away from
you. By moving the rod end around with your right hand this
can be done
easily.
Leaving the mechanical finger hooked up,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: S-tec 30 in a RV-8. |
THE CENTURY 2000 AUTO PILOT IS EASY INSTALLATION IN ALL THE RV AIRPLANES CALL
MARTIN OSWALD CENTURY FLIGHT SYSTEMS 1-800-4335630 EX604 FOR INFO
TOM RV8 TIO540S1AD LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Location |
Seems the antenna would get too much heat under the cowl??? Is that not a
problem?
hilljw(at)aol.com
8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC in an 8 |
Mike, Check w/ George Orndorff. He had an 8 in his shop that STec used as
a test bed to develop the kit. I think it will be available soon. Jeff
Farrar, RV8A,Got my QB!!!, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 8:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-TEC in an 8
>
>Anybody installed an S-TEC System 20 autopilot in their RV-8? The S-TEC
>people say they only have an installation for the 6, but some 8 builders
>have bought the 6 kit and made the necessary parts to fit the 8.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV-8Q #591
>Issaquah, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. VonHoven" <vonhoven(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
Does anyone know of a site that has pictures of the Harmon-Rocket?
C.VonHoven
Plant Process Development Engineer
SSC Industries, Atlanta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: breathing apparatus |
I just used a hair dryer set on 'cool' to feed my gas mask respirator.
Worked great.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>John and listers:
>for a descent fresh air breathing thingy, take a cartridge respirator.
>Hook a
>small 1/4 or 3/8" hose fitting to it and feed fresh air to it. Use a
>DRY
>DIAPHRAM compressor so that you are not pumpimg oil mist to your mask.
>Set the
>pump out in the back yard, UP WIND, from your paint site and connect
>them with a
>length of soft flexible plastic hose. Tape up the cannisters so that
>all of your
>breathing air comes in through the hose from outside. One of those
>small 12
>volt tire pump compressors might do the job. Try it and let the List
>know your
>results. Phil
>
>John Henley wrote:
>
>>
>> Von,
>> Did you alodine the skin first or just rough it up with
>scotchbright?
>> I am debating on whether to go with the epoxy primer or the 1791
>wash
>> primer which is self etching. I am leaning toward the wash primer
>for
>> health reasons since I don't want to buy a forced air breathing
>apparatus.
>> John Henley, 140 hrs, RV6
>>
>> ----------
>> > From: n41va(at)Juno.com
>> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > Subject: Re: RV-List: auto versus aircraft paint
>> > Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 10:10 AM
>> >
>> >
>> > Keith;
>> > Having just finished painting my RV-8 and being very happy with
>the
>> > results, I would like to recommend PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel.
>They claim
>> > this is what is used on 90% of new cars (except most of them use
>clear
>> > coat). It has a VOC of 4.2 lbs per gal. It is also one of the
>least
>> > expensive paints, yet with hardener is supposed to be extremely
>durable.
>> > If the auto paint has anti-run qualities compared to aircraft
>paint that
>> > is good, because unless you are a seasoned painter you need all
>the
>> > anti-run help you can get! I got 3 or 4 runs on mine which will be
>> > sanded and buffed out later. For my RV-8, it cost me a total of
>$485 for
>> > ALL the paint supplies. It took a gallon of DP-48 epoxy primer,
>and
>> > about 5 quarts of the main body paint, and a quart each of the
>trim
>> > colors. This was two full coats, you might be able to get by with
>one
>> > coat, but durability and longevity would drop, and it would be
>more
>> > difficult to get good coverage, but it can be done. In my opinion,
>paint
>> > is very important in how attractive the airplane is, as well as
>resale
>> > value. I saved weight in other areas (mostly the panel) to allow
>for the
>> > paint.
>> >
>> > Von Alexander
>> > N41VA(at)juno.com
>> >
>> > <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> writes:
>> > ><73623.2504(at)compuserve.com>
>> > >
>> > >Finally nearing paint time on my RV6. Been checking the archives
>and
>> > >found
>> > >lots of good info. But did not see this question addressed:
>> > >
>> > >Is there a significant difference in finished weight between auto
>and
>> > >aircraft paint? I have been told auto paint is heavier because it
>> > >contains
>> > >more anti-run ingredients - a form of clay, maybe? - which
>increase
>> > >its
>> > >weight.
>> > >
>> > >If there really is a big difference, and does anyone know how
>much for
>> > >a
>> > >typical RV6?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the priming system, paint or in the recommended paint
>> > >thickness?
>> > >
>> > >In looking at tech data sheets for two auto paints (PPG Concept
>and
>> > >Sikkens
>> > >Autocryl) I see a RTS VOC weight of about 4.6 pounds per gallon.
>I'm
>> > >guessing this means ready to spray volatile organic compounds. I
>> > >wonder if
>> > >I could use the Material Safety Data Sheets, take the total
>weight per
>> > >gallon (about 8.5# for paints and 7.5# for reducers) and subtract
>the
>> > >VOC
>> > >weight. Then I would have to get aircraft paint data to compare.
>> > >
>> > > With an O360, constant speed and full panel my RV is too heavy
>> > >already so
>> > >I'm wondering if aircraft paint might help.
>> > >
>> > >Also, I have pretty much dropped the idea of trying a water based
>> > >product,,
>> > >based mostly on the bad reports I found in the RV list archives
>for
>> > >System
>> > >Three on aluminum. At Oshkosh I got some info on paint furnished
>by
>> > >A.F.S.
>> > >(Aircraft Finishing Systems) in Montana. Of course they say its
>great
>> > >(sticks like crazy, light, beautiful, etc.). Does anyone on the
>list
>> > >have
>> > >experience with A.F.S. product on aluminum? I like the safety
>aspect
>> > >but
>> > >for sure don't want to get into a repainting project.
>> > >
>> > >Great posts the last couple of days about elevator weights -
>adjusting
>> > >those is coming up and the comments really help!
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
>> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
>> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net |
| Subject: | Re: Any Headsets out there needing new homes.....?? |
IEN YOE wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> In the past I've seen a few listings for used headsets posted by folks
> wanting to upgrade theirs. Two of my friends have just started taking
> Private Pilot training and are looking for good used headsets that are
> reasonably priced.
>
> Please reply to me with the information and I'll forward email to them.
>
> I appreciate any help in getting these guys a headset.....
>
> Paul Bilodeau
> RV-6A
> paul.and.ien(at)worldnet.att.net
> 732-721-2838
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> Working on hooking up the pitot tube. I am going to use the flexible
> plastic line to hook up the pitot instead of using the aluminum line.
> Any ideas on the types of tubing that can be used? It would be nice to
> not have to order some high dollar stuff when hardware store tubing
> would work. Has anyone tried the plastic tubing that is used to hook up
> icemakers or other types of tubing?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lucchinetti, Marco" <marcol(at)crt.com> |
| Subject: | Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
A few great pictures!
http://www.maui.net/~russ/rocket/mh.html
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles P. VonHoven [SMTP:vonhoven(at)usa.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:01 AM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net?
>
>
>
> Does anyone know of a site that has pictures of the Harmon-Rocket?
>
> C.VonHoven
> Plant Process Development Engineer
> SSC Industries, Atlanta, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <robert.acker(at)IngramMicro.com> |
Couldn't find this in the archives...
Is there a "proper" position to install the Sensenich f/p metal prop in
relation to the Lycoming crank/hub/starter ring (which has an index mark on
it)?
Thanks,
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Rob,
Glad to see your mounting the prop! Here is our "official" word on indexing
your Sensenich propeller:
The proper position is to install the propeller number one blade at 11 o
clock when the number one cylinder is top-dead-center (TDC). TDC can be
found by turning the ring gear and crankshaft until the line on the ring
gear (marked by TC #1) is aligned with a punch mark on the front edge of the
starter housing. Another way, would be to remove the spark plug from the
number one cylinder (facing the engine from the propeller flange, this is
the 1st cylinder on the left side for Lycomings) and while turning the
crankshaft put your thumb over the spark plug hole. On the compression
stroke you will feel pressure build and when the mag clicks the cylinder is
close to TDC. Using a flash light the exact TDC can be found.
This is the best position for hand proping. It also makes the propeller
stop near vertical during shutdown (or engine stoppage).
There you have it!
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Position |
<< This is the best position for hand proping. It also makes the propeller
stop near vertical during shutdown (or engine stoppage).
There you have it!
Ed Zercher >>
Ed:
Does this method align the prop with the crank throws? Seems I heard this a
while back...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lamont Cranston <dean_rv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for local builders |
Hi -
I am trying to decide between building an RV-6 or a Mustang II. Are
any list subscribers located in or around the metro Atlanta, GA area /
north GA? If you wouldn't mind sharing your experiences with
building/flying this kit, please respond to me off this list. Thanks!
(d_casey(at)yahoo.com)
Dean Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for local builders |
>
>I am trying to decide between building an RV-6 or a Mustang II. >
>(d_casey(at)yahoo.com)
>
>Dean Casey
>
Dean,
I'd say your asking for alot of email asking that question on this list.
I had the pleasure of helping a near heritic like your self make the correct
decision last summer, I have a four but he was trying to decide between a
six and a Mustang ll as well. I gave him the well known here, $30,000 free
ride and he ultimately decided on a six.
Not only a better airplane than a mustang, IMHO, but the factory support is
second to none.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | electric primers |
>This may be a long post, so hit delete now if you like.
>I would like to install an electric primer because it gets two more gas
>lines out of the cabin, and also the cost of manual primers is getting right
>up there.
>Aircraft Spruce has an electric primer solenoid which shows an inlet and
>outlet port, but I cannot see any wires or connectors to activate it. Is it
>a pump ? It is recommended for Long Eze types. I called to ask my questions,
>and guess what ? They don't know anything about this items use. They gave
>me a 1-800-- number to call for answers. They turn out to be a
>distributor/supplier, not the maker, so they were even more in a fog.
>Does anyone know how these are fitted into the system and are they what I am
>looking for ?..How have others implemented an electric prime ?
Been trying to whip up universal in
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fast-on connectors and inspections |
>Has anyone who chose to use the Fast-on connectors to wire their
>aircraft experienced a hassle with the airworthiness inspection from a
>DAR or FSDO rep? Personally, I'm planning on using the Fastons where
>possible, but don't want to butt heads (buttheads?) with the inspector
>when the big day comes...sometime in the next decade. *sigh*
The only guy who ever jumped up in one of my forums at OSH to
object to the use of Fast-Ons claimed to be an IA of many years
experience. He allowed as how those were for use on washing
machines and blenders and he'd be really hard on anyone who
tried to use them on any airplane for which he had a say . . .
I invited him to step out on the flightline and inspect ANY
Cessna from about 1966 and on. I was at Cessna when the Carling
rocker switches became standard and all were fitted with
Fast-On terminals. Given that there were no AD's against
tens of thousands of airplanes I didn't find it unusual that
he would know nothing about them . . . but suggested that
if he was REALLY upset about it, he sure did have his work
cut out for him! Given that most of those airplanes are now
pushing 30 years old, I'll suggest your concerns are quite
minimal.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 50 or 100 Watt Landing Lights ? |
> I am working on landing lights and wonder if
> 100 W bulbs are really needed or if the 50 W supplied with the Duckworks
> landing lights are sufficient. Would appreciate input of those who made
> night landings with either 50 and/or 100 W lights. >>
It's interesting about the range of ideas that surround
the topic of night lighting for landings. Most are aware
that Part 23 doesn't even require a landing light for night
flight. Some dyed-in-the-wool figher jocks speak of
learning to to carrier landings at night where a light
would be useless and they take visual cues from other
sources.
If you think about what makes a landing good or bad,
it's your perception of height above the ground in
the flare that allows you to hold the necessary landing
posture until your energy bleeds off.
I didn't figure it out until my own first attempt at
no-light landing about 15 years ago. Turned out it
was no big deal . . the reason being that as I settled
toward the runway, I picked up the concrete in my
peripheral vision every time the tip strobes flashed!
Years later, I suggested to some Kitfox builders (15
amp alternator) that some little spot lights under each
wing tip, pointed down and forward at about a 30 degree
angle would illuminate the surface on either side and
well inside your peripheral vision. A couple of
builders tried it and found that very satisfactory
landings were conducted with about 10 watts of light
per wingtip.
The other fact that begs attention is that it's not so
much how many watts of light you have as it is how
you use it. Case in point: Consider the 6 volt, sealed
beam sporting flashlights or perhaps the popular Mag
Lights. These are 5.5 volt, 0.6 amp bulbs with a grand
power consumption of about 3 watts!
I think if I had one of those sportsman's lanterns
tied to the strut of my J-3 I could make very satisfactory
night landings. The real answer to the question lies
in deciding what it is that you need to see in order
confidently control the airplane in that sweet zone
a foot above the runway.
I'll suggest that a bizillion candlepower of light pointed
down the runway may be satisfying in that one may
avoid the occasional cow . . . but for myself, I'd
spend some time experimenting with light and evaluation
of the physiology of landings to come up with a system
that is small, light, low in power consumption yet
adequate to the task. There are some nifty, 50 watt
12v reflector floods
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery cable/battery box |
>Ok, I'm stumped. In my QB, the battery box is already done, and I can not
>find any reference in the archives or the manuals as to where to have the
>wires exit the battery box to go to ground and to the starter relay. Also,
>I am assuming that most builders put the starter relay very close to the
>battery inside the firewall. Correct?
Please consider putting the starter contactor on the upper
left corner of firewall on the engine side and putting your
alternator b-lead feeder fuse right next to it. This
wiring is illustrated in several drawings downloadable
from
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/z8.pdf
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for local builders |
I started to build a mustang about 6 years ago, started on the wings, got one
done and then looked at Van's RV6. Well I gave away the plans, wings and
whatever else I had for the Mustang away for free.
The RV6 is a much nicer plane all around than the Mustang.
Hope this helps,
Bob Cornacchia
Mooney & Rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Mechanical finger |
Steve,
Here is a real simple way to install those pesky little -3 bolts in the
elevator and rudder hinges. What you need is a 3/8 inch box end wrench and 3M
brand blue painters masking tape. I use Sears Craftsman combination wrenches so
the box end is bent about 20 degrees in relation to the handle, but any other
brand of the same design will work. The 3M tape is thicker than other brands
so it works the best. IMHO
What you do is take a 1 inch piece of the masking tape and stick it over the
hole in the box end wrench. Next push the -3 bolt head through the masking tape
and into the wrench. The idea here is to get the masking tape to fold around
the bolt head as it enters the wrench making the bolt head fit into the wrench
a little tighter. The masking tape holds the bolt securely enough into the
wrench head and gives about a 20 degree angle between the bolt and the wrench.
I have installed my rudder and elevators countless times using this method.
On the elevators, start by putting a long -4 bolt through the VS-411 bearing
and the elevator horn. This holds the root/inboard end of the elevator so you
can line up the other two bearings and install the tip/outboard -3 bolt next.
On the rudder, I start with the top bolt and work down.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO
RV-6A s/n 22993 - Helping another builder install wings and landing gear
mounts in the morning.
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Now here is a product I could use inserting bolts into the tail cone that
> hold the VS on. I knew such a product had to exist. Where can I get one?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for local builders |
I am building an RV6 quickbuild. A good friend is building Mustang II. We
are at approximately the same stage of construction. Memphis, TN.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lamont Cranston <dean_rv(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 3:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for local builders
>
>Hi -
>
>I am trying to decide between building an RV-6 or a Mustang II. Are
>any list subscribers located in or around the metro Atlanta, GA area /
>north GA? If you wouldn't mind sharing your experiences with
>building/flying this kit, please respond to me off this list. Thanks!
>
>(d_casey(at)yahoo.com)
>
>Dean Casey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
While we are discussing drilling and attaching the elevator push rod.
I've had the horizontal stab. on a table for a year while I work on the
fuselage. If I align the elevator tips with the horizontal stab. would
it be OK to drill the elevator horns (easy time to do it), or should I
wait until it's installed on the fuselage (the access hole looks awful
small). I think, if I have to do any shimming during installation that I
wouldn't want to distort the hor. stab. after all the work done to make
it straight during construction.
Marty Sailer RV-6A Installing electric flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelvin Rempel" <krempel(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | RV builders in Calgary |
I'm going to be in the Calgary area on Saturday, January 30 and possibly on
Sunday. I am interested in building an RV in the near future but would like
to look at some projects that are being built, or at a completed aircraft.
Please leave an E-mail if available this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod Attachment |
>While we are discussing drilling and attaching the elevator push rod.
>I've had the horizontal stab. on a table for a year while I work on
>the
>fuselage. If I align the elevator tips with the horizontal stab.
>would
>it be OK to drill the elevator horns (easy time to do it), or should I
>wait until it's installed on the fuselage (the access hole looks awful
>small).
-
You should do it off the airplane. Their is not enough room to to do
accurate work with it mounted on the fuselage.
I am not sure what you mean by this shimming/distorting stuff below
though.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
-
I think, if I have to do any shimming during installation that
>I
>wouldn't want to distort the hor. stab. after all the work done to
>make
>it straight during construction.
>
>Marty Sailer RV-6A Installing electric flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Position |
>
>Rob,
>
>Glad to see your mounting the prop! Here is our "official" word on
>indexing
>your Sensenich propeller:
>
>The proper position is to install the propeller number one blade at 11
>o
>clock when the number one cylinder is top-dead-center (TDC).
>Ed Zercher
>
>
If mounted this way, doesn't it locate the other blade directly in front
of the timing marks on the ring gear support?
This makes it a real pain to adjust the mag timing accurately.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Mesa, AZ builders |
I'm finishing the wings on my -6A and will be in the Mesa,AZ area Feb. 17-21
and would like to share mistakes with any builders in the area. If you have
time for hanger wars let me know and I'll get in touch. I'm trying to make a
decision on the engine and am considering a Mazda rotary. Any suggestions
etc. welcome.
Thanks
Larry McKee
Hanford, CA
eschew obfuscation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)email.msn.com> |
Jim
Can you give me a phone number for Wicks.
Stan Mehrhoff
RV-8 about ready to fly, memphis area.
-----Original Message-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Stan Mehrhoff wrote:
>
>
> Jim
> Can you give me a phone number for Wicks.
> Stan Mehrhoff
> RV-8 about ready to fly, memphis area.
(800) 221-9425
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | WWW links about flight testing |
RV-Listers,
I have collected a list of links about flight testing homebuilt aircraft.
There is information there that might be useful for those preparing for
their first flight, and also those who are doing performance or flight
characteristics flight testing.
The links are available at http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Please let me know if there are any other links that I should add, or if
any of the ones I have are bad.
Also, I am looking for someone more qualified than I to write a few notes
explaining what flutter is in terms that are easily understood. Flutter is
a often misunderstood phenomenon, and I would like to link to some decent
info on it, either as an external link, or info on my web page. I would be
more than happy to provide proper attribution to who ever is willing to
write something.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Mesa, AZ builders |
Larry:
I live in Scottsdale. I have a QB, but a new engine from Aero Sport Power
(Bart Lalonde) if you want to come by and take a look.
You can reach me at 473-7883
Paul Besing
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry McKee <lmckee(at)cnetech.com>
Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 6:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for Mesa, AZ builders
>
>I'm finishing the wings on my -6A and will be in the Mesa,AZ area Feb.
17-21
>and would like to share mistakes with any builders in the area. If you
have
>time for hanger wars let me know and I'll get in touch. I'm trying to make
a
>decision on the engine and am considering a Mazda rotary. Any suggestions
>etc. welcome.
>Thanks
>Larry McKee
>Hanford, CA
>eschew obfuscation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
Oh man what a beautiful bird...wanna trade for a partially built -6A??
-----Original Message-----
From: Lucchinetti, Marco <marcol(at)crt.com>
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net?
>
>
> A few great pictures!
>
>http://www.maui.net/~russ/rocket/mh.html
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Charles P. VonHoven [SMTP:vonhoven(at)usa.net]
>> Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:01 AM
>> To: RV-List
>> Subject: RV-List: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net?
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone know of a site that has pictures of the Harmon-Rocket?
>>
>> C.VonHoven
>> Plant Process Development Engineer
>> SSC Industries, Atlanta, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>>
>> -----
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> -----
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller McPherson <mcphersn(at)u.arizona.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: breathing apparatus |
On Thu, 28 Jan 1999 n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
> I just used a hair dryer set on 'cool' to feed my gas mask respirator.
> Worked great.
Uh,
You might want to check your hair dryer out first. Some of the older
models were insulated with asbestos, which would not make for good
breathing...
Miller McPherson
RV6 QB Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/30/99 5:56:43 AM Pacific Standard Time, acepilot(at)mwt.net
writes:
<< he forgot the last
part of their name -- "Specialty"...which makes their short reference
ASS instead of just AS. >>
Actually ACS is correct.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Magnetic Interference |
I'm looking for a way to mount the rails my radios trays will attach to. I'd
like to make the rails removable, but I'm concerned that screws/nutplates may
cause magnetic interference with my compass, which will be located nearby. I
know you can get brass screws, but are there brass, aluminum, plastic, or some
other non- magnetic female fasteners I can use for this application?
Or, am I overly concerned with the impact a couple of grams of steel will
have?
Replies apprieciated.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
Mark: Remember that one was forsale from Canada (Prince Edward Island) for 80K
last year this time....I don't know who bought it..I think it went to CA...Jim
Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
Can someone tell me if and where I can find number -4
nutplates (for mounting tail position light). AS&S only
carries down to -6. Thanks.
Adrian Chick
Nashville, TN.
rv6a wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Engine handleing |
Hi Louise:
Not sure what your LAME means by not babying the engine. I think some
people are misguided by the recommended 70-75% power setting to seat the
rings during the first few hours of operation on a new or overhauled
engine. This rule is also the same for a top overhaul where just the
cylinders are reworked..But once the rings are seated and oil consumption
has stabilized there is no further need for the 70-75% power setting on a
continuous basis.
The engine gets a good variety of power settings in normal use with the
initial full throttle for take-off and 75% for the climb or during
aerobatics. Once the engine is run-in properly I have never seen any
problems develope from the 65% setting.
A good example would be Jon's long distance flights and round the world
flights with normal power settings of 50 -55%. These settings were used to
acheive maximum range.Jon and I did a 10 day tour into the arctic with my
RV6 on wheels in August and the engine subject as to fuel consumption and
reliability came up frequently with our flying over the isolated areas. At
that time Jon mentioned that his engine which was purchased new had some
1400 hrs on it and was running around a litre of oil every fifty hours and
with all the cylinders in the high seventies over eighty.
Hope this helps and feel free to contact me anytime,
Regards
Eustace Bowhay
Do not Achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Interference |
>
>I'm looking for a way to mount the rails my radios trays will attach to. I'd
>like to make the rails removable, but I'm concerned that screws/nutplates may
>cause magnetic interference with my compass, which will be located nearby. I
>know you can get brass screws, but are there brass, aluminum, plastic, or some
>other non- magnetic female fasteners I can use for this application?
Stainless steel is reasonably nonmagnetic. Do they even make stainless
nutplates and the like?
>Or, am I overly concerned with the impact a couple of grams of steel will
>have?
No, you aren't being overly concerned. I was very careful to make sure
there was nothing magnetic near the compass and everything was working fine
until later when I forgot and installed a couple of miniature toggle
switches in the panel too near the compass. I now have *serious* deviation
errors that I haven't been able to eliminate yet.
Brian Lloyd 3420 Sudbury Road
brian(at)lloyd.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
http://www.lloyd.com +1.530.676.1113
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: breathing apparatus |
Miller; A good warning if you are using an old hair dryer; I bought mine
new and checked for this.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for Parachute |
For the first 25 hours or so, I am planning to wear a parachute for my
RV-8 test period. Would like to just buy one; does anyone have one they
would like to sell? Need a seat pack type, weight 170lbs. Or
recommendations on where to find one for a reasonable price? Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/30/99 3:52:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
adrianchick(at)home.com writes:
<< Can someone tell me if and where I can find number -4
nutplates (for mounting tail position light). AS&S only
carries down to -6. Thanks.
>>
Cleaveland sells them as part of their wing tip mounting kit. They'd probably
sell you some individually.
Rick McBride
rickrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator in RV-4 Wingroot |
People have put gascolators in RV-6 wingroots, but I read in an earlier
post that there was not enough space in the RV-4 wingroot. The idea of
having it there seems sensible to me so I'd like to explore this a bit more.
1) Is anyone in a position to actually measure the amount of spanwise space
in an RV-4 wingroot between the fuselage side and the fuel tank rib web? My
gascolator would require about 2-1/2 inches to fit.
2) Does anyone know of a slimmer gascolator? In Canada we need gascolators
not filters.
Thanks
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
In a message dated 1/30/99 12:23:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8er(at)doitnow.com writes:
<< Oh man what a beautiful bird...wanna trade for a partially built -6A??
>>
If anyone else wants some pics of a beautiful Harmon Rocket II, let me know, I
have a few that I took this past weekend when I got a ride with Mark
Frederick. What a ride!!! Pics turned out nice too.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Special buy on D-Sub crimp tool . . . |
We've just received a limited qty of "star crimp" tools
for machined pins to fit D-Sub connectors and many others.
Take a peek at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/consign.html
The D-Sub connector is found on many of the small, modern
avionics products. It's also common to most of our "black
boxes". . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Special buy on D-Sub crimp tool . . . |
>
>
> We've just received a limited qty of "star crimp" tools
> for machined pins to fit D-Sub connectors and many others.
> Take a peek at:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/consign.html
>
> The D-Sub connector is found on many of the small, modern
> avionics products. It's also common to most of our "black
> boxes". . . .
>
Bob,
I'm interested in buying one of these D-Sub crimp tools, if I will
need one later on. I must admit that I know next to nothing about
installing electrics and avionics though. Other than some avionics
boxes, where would I need this tool?
I may eventually purchase the pre-built wiring kit that Van is
putting together, if I get good feedback on quality, completeness and
ease of installation. In this case, would I need this tool?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "howard.kidwell" <howard.kidwell(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Want to 'see' the sound barrier? |
Greetings:
This was passed on to me by a fellow retired fighter pilot. Enjoy.
Howard Kidwell
Subject: Fwd: Want to 'see' the sound barrier?
>
>
>Take a look at this and "see" an F-4 breaking the sound barrier:
>
>http://www.MilAir.net/Temp/MilAirScan-F-4J_01.jpg
>
>
1900
[192.161.36.5])
by rly-yc04.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
with ESMTP id PAA26782;
(5.5.2407.0)
From: "Stevens, Mark C" <Mark.Stevens3(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Want to 'see' the sound barrier?
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:18:52 -0800
> Take a look at this F-4 breaking the sound barrier:
>
> http://www.MilAir.net/Temp/MilAirScan-F-4J_01.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building and waiting |
Buster,
Thanks again,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8 > Progressing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
>
>Help
>Has anyone ever used a 0340 in a RV-6..
>>________________________________________________________
I know of two RV6's that have been flying with 0-340 for about seven years.
One in Oregon, the other in East Texas. These engines work just fine but
they are old, make sure you can get all the parts you need at a reasonable
price or they might not be such a bargain.
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,300hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
I just drilled the last 6 holes in my panel. They were the ones to mount my
new PS Engineering intercom. Unfortunately, the drilling template supplied
in the installation kit didn't come close to matching the actual holes in the
faceplate for the intercom. Try and imagine the happy moment ($!!&*%!) when I
went to mount the thing.
My suggestion: Check those templates before you drill.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 with oblong holes where the intercom mounts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Interference |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for a way to mount the rails my radios trays will attach to. I'd
> like to make the rails removable, but I'm concerned that screws/nutplates may
> cause magnetic interference with my compass, which will be located nearby. I
> know you can get brass screws, but are there brass, aluminum, plastic, or some
> other non- magnetic female fasteners I can use for this application?
>
> Or, am I overly concerned with the impact a couple of grams of steel will
> have?
> Kyle Boatright
Suggest you set your compass on the kitchen table (away from any
magnetic influence). Then take your screw/nutplate assembly and see how
close to the compass it must come to cause any deflection or compass
swing. Double that distance is probably safe.
My guess is that the nutplate & screw would have to be within 3 inches
to have any influence.
Electrical circuits and other instruments will probably cause you
greater problems.
My Cessna has the compass mounted on the windshield, a magnet is used to
hold the glove box door closed about two feet away from the compass.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - starting fusalage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jack point measurment |
In a message dated 1/27/99 6:55:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
borgny(at)rconnect.com writes:
<< Could someone with a completed RV-6A measure the distance between the wing
tie-down and the ground. I want to build some wing jacks. Contact me off
list. >>
28.5" from underside of wing to the ground at the threaded tie down hole.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/30/99 12:52:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
adrianchick(at)home.com writes:
<< Can someone tell me if and where I can find number -4
nutplates (for mounting tail position light). AS&S only
carries down to -6. >>
I've got hundreds of them. How many do you want?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dgates <dgates(at)adnc.com> |
| Subject: | How to "swing" a compass? |
Hi all,
Does anybody have a step by step procedure one would use to swing a compass?
Hopefully, posted on a web site somewhere?
Thanks!
Don Gates
PS -- Paul Rosales and I flew down to visit Gary Sobek today, just to offer
encouragement and support. It's going to be a while, but I sure hope to see him
and his plane in the air again! We were there more than seven minutes so he
put us to work!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Template Trap |
>>I just drilled the last 6 holes in my panel. They were the ones to
mount my new PS Engineering intercom. Unfortunately, the drilling
template supplied in the installation kit didn't come close to matching
the actual holes in the faceplate for the intercom. Try and imagine
the happy moment ($!!&*%!) when I went to mount the thing.
My suggestion: Check those templates before you drill.
Kyle Boatright<<
Kyle is right! I just went through this process and found that they
don't quite fit, either. One tool that I really liked was the little drilling
guide for instruments from Wag Aero. You may be able to get it from
other souces. However, the holes didn't quite line up with the
instruments. There is a standard; but, everyone is a bit off. I had to
do a bit of tweaking on each one. I must admit that the template did
save time. On the other templates, I double checked for accuracy
and found some errors. For some things, I made my own drilling
templates and got a little closer. Hey, I'm not perfect and am not
building the perfect airplane! :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Wiring done. Engine controls and plumbing next.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA44)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net? |
Hey Scott...
Send me those pic's please..
Got alot of attention among other RV builders on that custom trim tab you
built for me...
Thanks
Doug Gardner
RV-8A
-----Original Message-----
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com [mailto:FLARV8N(at)aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 1999 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Harmon Rocket Pictures on the net?
In a message dated 1/30/99 12:23:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8er(at)doitnow.com writes:
<< Oh man what a beautiful bird...wanna trade for a partially built -6A??
>>
If anyone else wants some pics of a beautiful Harmon Rocket II, let me know,
I
have a few that I took this past weekend when I got a ride with Mark
Frederick. What a ride!!! Pics turned out nice too.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jack point measurment |
Might make the jacks shorter than than to take care of flat tires.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jack point measurment
>
>In a message dated 1/27/99 6:55:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>borgny(at)rconnect.com writes:
>
><< Could someone with a completed RV-6A measure the distance between the
wing
> tie-down and the ground. I want to build some wing jacks. Contact me off
> list. >>
>
>28.5" from underside of wing to the ground at the threaded tie down hole.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to "swing" a compass? |
In a message dated 1/30/99 11:50:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, dgates(at)adnc.com
writes:
<< Does anybody have a step by step procedure one would use to swing a
compass? >>
1. Use a nonmagnetic screwdriver for all adjustments and have the
engine/instuments powered up and running.
2. Place the adjuster/compensators in their neutral positions (there should
be marks/dots)
3. Face the aircraft north.
4. Use the N-S adjuster to remove all deviation so that the compass reads N.
5. Face the aircraft east.
6. Use the E-W adjuster to remove all deviation so that the compass reads E.
7. Face the aircraft south.
8. Note the error and use the N-S adjuster to remove half of the error.
9. Face the aircraft west.
10. Note the error and use the E-W adjuster to remove half of the error.
11. Face the aircraft north.
12. Note the error and use the N-S adjuster to remove half of the error.
13. Face the aircraft east.
14. Note the error and use the E-W adjuster to remove half of the error.
15. Face the aircraft south.
16. Note the error and use the N-S adjuster to remove half of the error.
17. Face the aircraft west.
18. Note the error and use the E-W adjuster to remove half of the error.
19. Face the aircraft in the directions indicated on the compass correction
card and make the required entries for each of these headings.
If you can't get a good correlation then you need to remove magnetic materials
from the compass's sphere of influence or degauss magnetized items.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | flap brace rivets and QB |
'The new quick builds here .... the new quick builds here .... I'm somebody
now+ACE-' to paraphrase Steve Martin.
Anyway, what have you other -8 QB'rs done on riveting the flap brace to the
rear spar? The call-out is for AN470 AD4-4 rivets but w/ the QB wing
skins on, there isn't any way to buck them. Is there a blind fastener
substitute for an AD4 rivet ? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: nutplates and compasses |
There was a posting yesterday about steel nutplates and their effect on the
mag compass. I put my compass on the workbench and held a single #8 nutplate
1 inch from the compass and got 5 deg of movement. I then placed my radio
rack which contains 10 #8 stell nutplates (maybe a little overbuilt) next to
and even touching the compass (even the nutplates touching the compass) with
no movement. I'm thinking that the compass reacts to the ratio of magnetic vs
nonmagnetic material. Thats the theory I'm sticking to until I hear a better
one. Any other theorys?
Dave Beizer
Moreno Valley Ca RV-6A Inst Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Misc. Building Tips, hopefully helpful to some |
I wanted to share several building tips with the group - some of these I
"borrowed" from others, and some are originals. I'm sure that some of
these have already been on this list.
1. Tube level. This can be used to get the wing spar mounted level on the
jigs, and later to level the fuselage in pitch. Get a 1/4" or so diameter
clear PVC tube around 12 feet long. Boiling an ounce or two of water a few
minutes, cool, and adding a drop or two liquid soap will help eliminate gas
bubbles and allow the water to "wet" the tube. Fill the
tube about 80% full of this water, and duct tape one end of the tube to the
end of the jig or whatever you want level, and then move the other end up
and down until the water level is where it is most useful. Do not use too
small a tube for this, as bubbles which are as big as the ID of the tube
will make it inaccurate.
2. $85 engine hoist. The base is a rectangle consisting of two 60" and two
49" 2x4's, bolted together with two 1/4" carriage bolts in each corner.
Under each 60" board are bolted two castering wheels (200# capacity each),
14" in from each end (32" from wheel to wheel). The vertical portion
consists of four 84" long 3/4" rigid galvanized pipes, fashioned into a
pyramid. At the bottom, each of the pipes lines up directly over one of
the casters, with a little counterbore into the wood to keep it in place.
At the top, I cut four pipe couplings (the above dimensions work this out
to be 18 degrees) and welded them to a 4" square by 1/8" thick plate. In
the middle of this plate is a hole for
an eye bolt. I really like the fact that when I'm not using it, it can be
disassembled for storage. The base is sized to straddle the engine pallet.
This size lift will easily put the top of the engine at about 48" above the
floor with a typical come-along, so size it as necessary for your
application.
3. Wing incidence jigs. When setting the wing incidence angle, I found it
difficult to make adjustments and then verify, as the rear spar didn't stay
in place. Using scrap aluminum angle and threaded rod, I built jigs which
clamped to both the fuselage and the aft end of a wing rib, connected by a
length of threaded rod. Instead of simply moving the rear spar up and
down, this
allows the rear spar to be moved small amounts with adjustment of the nuts
on the threaded rod.
4. The slider rear hold down blocks can be made adjustable by shimming
under the U-channel, and then removing shims as necessary. Lateral
adjustment can be made by making the plastic block narrower than the
U-channel, and shimming as necessary to move the blocks left and right.
5. The holes through the bulkheads for the forward elevator pushrod in the
6/6A need to be off center to accommodate mounting the elevator bellcrank
off center (spacers are not equal length, see dwg 40,
middle of sheet). Maybe newer drawings show this, but if your drawings
show these holes through bulkheads 605 and 606 to be on center, they are
wrong.
6. A very simple balance for measuring pro-seal or epoxy can be made with
coat hanger type wire. Make the lengths of the arms proportional to the
weight ratio of the two part stuff you want to measure. For example, if
the proportions of some epoxy are 5:1 by weight, make one arm of the
balance 2" long, and the other arm 10" long (or 3" and 15"). I made little
hooks to hold the small plastic cups ("Dixie" style), which are then hung
on the ends of the balance. With these cups empty, weights will need to be
added to the short end of the balance, as it is important that the system
be in balance before adding material to the cups.
7. Cut a small notch in the interior edge of the bottom web of F607 for
removal of the forward elevator pushrod.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to "swing" a compass? |
On Sat, 30 Jan 1999, dgates wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have a step by step procedure one would use to swing a compass?
This isn't on a web site but here is how I have done it in the past.
1. Carefully align the aircraft with magnetic north. The accuracy with
which you perform this step will determine the accuracy of the rest of the
process. Use a good compass rose painted on the ground with plumb bobs
from nose and tail or use a really good hand-bearing compass sighting
along the plumb lines at nose and tail.
2. Set both the N/S and E/W adjustment screws in the compass to their
neutral position..
3. Start the aircraft.
4. Turn on the lights and radios.
5. Get the DG up-to-speed and set it for N.
6. Using a nonmagnetic screwdriver, adjust the N/S adjustment screw to
eliminate any error.
7. Using the DG as a reference, turn the aircraft to a heading of 180.
8. Adjust the N/S adjustment screw to eliminate 1/2 (that's right, half)
the error.
9. Turn to a heading of 270.
10. Adjust the E/W adjustment screw to eliminate any error.
11. Turn the aircraft to a heading of 090.
12. Adjust the E/W adjustment screw to eliminate 1/2 the error.
13. Turn to a heading of 000 and write down the error on your compass
correction card. Do this for each 30 degrees.
It is a good idea to plan this whole thing out ahead of time so you can
run through the steps quickly. Remember, you are dependent on the
accuracy of the DG during this procedure so you want it to precess as
little as possible.
If you have a helper and a compass rose you can do this without using the
DG but it is a lot more difficult.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nutplates and compasses |
On Sun, 31 Jan 1999 PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'm thinking that the compass reacts to the ratio of magnetic vs
> nonmagnetic material. Thats the theory I'm sticking to until I hear a better
> one. Any other theorys?
It is reacting to whether or not the nutplate is magnetized. It turns out
that, if a piece of iron or steel experiences a sudden shock such as from
being dropped on concrete, the metal will acquire a magnetic "charge" from
the earth's magnetic field.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Template Trap |
On Sun, 31 Jan 1999 KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> new PS Engineering intercom. Unfortunately, the drilling template supplied
> in the installation kit didn't come close to matching the actual holes in the
> faceplate for the intercom. Try and imagine the happy moment ($!!&*%!) when
I
> went to mount the thing.
The paper templates that many companies supply aren't dimensionally
stable. I used the actual faceplate from the intercom as a template and
then drilled the holes slightly undersized. I then used a very small
rat-tail file to open up the holes and ensure that they are in exactly the
right place.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap brace rivets and QB |
Anyway, what have you other -8 QB'rs done on riveting the flap brace to the
rear spar? The call-out is for AN470 AD4-4 rivets but w/ the QB wing
skins on, there isn't any way to buck them. Is there a blind fastener
substitute for an AD4 rivet ? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Chandler, AZ
Jeff,
You can buck them, just reach in through the inspection plate holes while
standing on a stool (assuming you have them jigged). Also, you can get at
some of them from the sides assuming you haven't riveted the outer bottom
skin on yet. I just bucked them on a friends 8QB so I know it can be done.
You can do it!
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, fuselage
Home Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Used engines |
----------
> From: N13eer(at)aol.com
> To: ebowhay(at)shuswap.net
> Subject: Re: Used engines
> Date: Thursday, January 14, 1999 6:05 PM
>
> In a message dated 1/13/99 9:31:20 PM Central Standard Time,
> ebowhay(at)shuswap.net writes:
>
> << If you like contact me of the list and give me a bit more detail on
what
> you are looking for.
>
> Eustace,
> What I am thinking about is an O-360 with a fixed pitch prop. I would
also
> like to add one of the electronic ignetions if not right away down the
road.
> I have been told that Lycoming made an engine with a single mag hole and
solid
> crank that are priced less on the used market. Is this correct? I am
also
> looking to keep the cost down so if I could find something with between
500
> and 1000 hours that I could fly for a while before it needed to be pulled
> down.
> I have also been looking at O-320s but I would prefer the 360. So far I
have
> come up with the follwing questions:
> Total time.
> TSMO
> Type of mounts
> Carb location
> Crank type (solid)
> does it have a fuel pump
> for 320 high or low compresion
> has there been a prop strike.
>
> What else do I need to know?
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
Hi Alan:
Sorry to take so long to get back to you on this but here are the guide
lines I use on finding a engine. In order to cut the length of this post if
you go into the archives and under engines find Match #43 Message #2363
Subject FWD>RV engines (From Van's Aircraft) there is an excellent message
from Van's that covers the models of Lycomings suitable for the RV's. Use
these guide lines to locate the engine. Because of the number of a/c being
built today the chances of picking up a good used engine are not good and
this is all the more reason to be extra cautious.
Using the recommended 2000 hrs as the life before overhaul if I found one
with time remaining the first question would be "why was it removed".
Unless it was to upgrade or it came from a damaged a/c I would be on my
guard.
Is it a first run ? Time since new or o/h? Are the logs and records
complete? How old is it? When was it last run? If overhauled who did it and
are there good records of this?
Type of mount? While a dyno-1 is probably preferrable type dyno-2 and
conical are also acceptable.
Is it constant speed capable? While not a consideration with a fixed pitch
prop it does add some value to it.
If it is a H2D don't let this scare you away. This engine is like the one
you refer to with dual mags mounted on a single drive.They had some cam and
lifter problems due to lack of use but by using the proper oil and flying
them regularily will easily go to recommended o/h. Just be aware they are
fixed pitch only and will require a minor rework on the cowl due to the
front mounted fuel pump.They have been available at a more resonable price.
If you are still interested the next step would be a detailed inspection of
the engine and logs and records.If good logs and records are not available
I would treat it as a time exed engine.If the seller is the original owner
a lot can be learned in a face to face visit. Most of us are not qualified
to do a proper inspection before purchase so if you are getting serious
about buying it get a qualified person to do the final inspection for such
items as bent crank flange internal corrossion and general condition.
If you are still satisfied ask the seller if he would be willing to have it
run at a overhaul shop at your expence. In the case of a time exed engine
that you would have overhauled will he guarantee the crankshaft. This
usually sorts the thieves from the honest ones. A run at a o/h facility
can be done for say 250.00. It is not possible to be absolutely sure of the
crankshaft without a tear down making a run in a test stand the next best
thing. Also if it is a engine that has had a previous o/h the crank may
already be at limits adding around 4000 to the next o/h.
You can calculate the value of the engine using these rough figures. The
current value of a good first run core is between 5000 and 7000 depending
on the model. If it is a overhauled engine this would probaly be say 3500
-5500.
If it is a part time engine the time remaining is worth say 4.00 per hour.
I follow these rules closely otherwise one stands the chance of winding up
with a very expensive boat anchor. A high time engine with a bad crank is
worth "zero".
If you are lucky enough to find a good engine but it has the wrong sump,
carb, or accessory case talk to Bart before you give up on it.
A new engine comes with inter-cylinder baffles, carb or fuel injection and
a fuel pump. Anything else found on a used engine would be a plus.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi listers ,
Has anybody out there fitted an I0 540 into an RV8 or is in the process of doing
so, I would like to get your comments or views as I am a bit of a petrol head
and love high performance aircraft.
Peter Winter
Wings....RV8
p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Used engines |
I used a H2AD engine with Ed Sterna 68/76 prop. in my "6." I find it to be a
nice combination and I'm happy with the performance and cost. The fuel pump is
mounted up front and modification will have to be made to the upper cowling,
but it also happens to be probably the coolest place in the engine
compartment, lessens the chance of vapor lock. I don't think that Van's
offers a baffle kit for it, so unless you can find a use one you'll have to
build one from scratch, I did.
Gil T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
I,m making the landing light leading edge lenses from lexan. Has anyone
successfully made their lenses out of lexan? I heated it in the oven to
300 degrees for 10 minutes and it barely bent. Any ideas on how much
heat and for how long?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>I,m making the landing light leading edge lenses from lexan. Has anyone
>successfully made their lenses out of lexan? I heated it in the oven to
>300 degrees for 10 minutes and it barely bent. Any ideas on how much
>heat and for how long?
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
This is from memory but I recall that you first heat it to about 200
degrees for at least 45 minutes to an hour to drive the moisture from
the Lexan. Lexan has a moisture content that will cause steam bubbles
if you heat it to past the boiling point without first 'drying' it
out.
After the moisture is gone then increase the heat to 250 to 300 until
the Lexan begins to 'droop'. Upon removing it from the oven
immediately ( in seconds!!) place it on your form. Cover the form
with a soft cloth like flannel so you don't scratch the Lexan.
I don't understand why yours didn't bend; maybe not enuf time in the
oven, maybe too thick. It only needs to be about 1/16" or so thick.
Lexan won't break like plexiglass will so you can get away with much
thinner stock.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Parachute |
Dear Von,
I have a WW2 era seatpack in good condition that I will sell. It does need
to be repacked. I bought it years ago as new surplus , however I did not
like sitting on it and bought a back pack. Make offer.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124
----------
> From: n41va(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Looking for Parachute
> Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 3:26 PM
>
>
> For the first 25 hours or so, I am planning to wear a parachute for my
> RV-8 test period. Would like to just buy one; does anyone have one they
> would like to sell? Need a seat pack type, weight 170lbs. Or
> recommendations on where to find one for a reasonable price? Thanks.
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Dear Jerry,
I am building an RV8, however I own a TruValue hardware store and am very
familiar with the plastic tubing that I sell and also that of Home
Depot,Walmart etc. I would not use this tube for my airplane,b ecause I do
not believe that it is good enough quality. I think that it will
deteriorate after a few years of exposure to the elements. I researched
the tube and have used polyurethane tubing (appears to look like the
economy stuff)
however, it will last forever and is much more stable under all conditions.
Yes , it costs more than 10cents a
foot, (approx 25cents) but I think it is a good investment. I used the
"Legris" brand available at industrial supply houses that specialize in
hydraulic hose and liquid transmission equiipment. Legris also has a line
\of beautiful compact fittings to go with this tube in every conceivable
configuration. They also supply larger sizes like 3/8 an 1/2 that I used
for my vacuum system. The fittings interchange with Nylon, Polyurethane,
and Polyethlene tube.
Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124
----------
> From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pitot line
> Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 10:41 PM
>
>
> Working on hooking up the pitot tube. I am going to use the flexible
> plastic line to hook up the pitot instead of using the aluminum line.
> Any ideas on the types of tubing that can be used? It would be nice to
> not have to order some high dollar stuff when hardware store tubing
> would work. Has anyone tried the plastic tubing that is used to hook up
> icemakers or other types of tubing?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | elevator horn misalignment |
Hi all. Today I mounted my left elevator to the HS, and I used a drill bit
through the center bearing to make a small mark on the horn, then rotated
the elevator through it's full range of motion. Well, the mark does not stay
centered. It drifts maybe 1/8" or less. Adjusting the rod end bearings
didn't help, so I'm guessing the misalignment is in the vertical plane. Any
ideas on fixing this? Should I fix it? I don't want to chance the elevators
binding.
Thanks in advance!
BTW, my workshop was broken into, and my bandsaw, sander, and grinder were
stolen. Had to buy all new tools today. So much for my electric DG. If you
don't build at home, consider an alarm system.
:(
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I have the sliding canopy with the stainless steel support bar and would
like to mount my compass on it. Does anyone know of a compass with the
mounting bracket on top, dont believe I want to mount a box bracket around
the compass seems it would be quite large and curtail visibility. TU ahead
RV6A finish kit
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: elevator horn misalignment |
>
>
>BTW, my workshop was broken into, and my bandsaw, sander, and grinder were
>stolen. Had to buy all new tools today. So much for my electric DG. If you
>don't build at home, consider an alarm system.
>
>:(
>
Really sorry to hear that!! Hope they didn't damage your airplane.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Break-in--thiefs |
Moe, you might want to check your Homeowners Insurance. You might be
covered--just guessing--mine covers my tools at work. I wonder if there is
renters insurance and maybe liability for such things and to cover your
backside. I have been told by my agent my tools are also covered in the hanger
I rent but not the airplane of course or such things as that. Just a thought.
Sorry about what happened but you can still get an e-gyro just not Now maybe.
Good luck. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Noble" <apple(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator horn misalignment |
-----Original Message-----
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: elevator horn misalignment
>
>Hi all. Today I mounted my left elevator to the HS, and I used a drill bit
>through the center bearing to make a small mark on the horn, then rotated
>the elevator through it's full range of motion. Well, the mark does not
stay
>centered. >
Mo, I think this means that the hinge fittings on the stabilizer are not in
line. That is to say, the elevator is rotating around the line formed by
the outboard two hinge fittings and if the center bearing hole is not
sitting still relative to the elevator then it must not be on that line.
Perhaps if you put a pencil or some other marker in the center bearing and
let it mark on the bellcrank as you swing through the travel it will show
you the magnitude of the error. My next step would be to do a string check
on the stabilizer fittings to see if you get the same dimension.
I don't have a clue as to what the maximum amount of allowable misalignment
might be.
This is relatively flexible structure so a fair amount of misalignment
should be tolerable, but 1/8 of an inch seems to be pretty high to me.
Anybody out there have any experience with this?
Jack Noble
RV-8 80719
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Griesdale" <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric primers |
Dear Robert
The Primer Solenoid in the Aircraft Spruce Cat. indeed has wires. Simply connect
a l/8 in. tube from the top of the gascolator to a 4 port manifold (also
available from AC Spruce, page l05, new catalogue) and prime three cylinders.
The fuel pump will be ON during this exercise. I find that a 5 second prime
on a cold day is adequate. This will vary. The solenoid in question has two
ports, numbered l and 2. I had to phone the manufacturer to find out which was
"in" and "out". At this moment I cannot remember. Stay tuned while I check
the A/C. I also connected this solenoid in parallel with a tradional manual
primer in the event of a battery failure (read dead). Rob Griesdale,
Cayley, Alberta, RV-6A, C-GWPC.
----------
>
>
>
> >This may be a long post, so hit delete now if you like.
> >I would like to install an electric primer because it gets two more gas
> >lines out of the cabin, and also the cost of manual primers is getting right
> >up there.
> >Aircraft Spruce has an electric primer solenoid which shows an inlet and
> >outlet port, but I cannot see any wires or connectors to activate it. Is it
> >a pump ? It is recommended for Long Eze types. I called to ask my questions,
> >and guess what ? They don't know anything about this items use. They gave
> >me a 1-800-- number to call for answers. They turn out to be a
> >distributor/supplier, not the maker, so they were even more in a fog.
> >Does anyone know how these are fitted into the system and are they what I am
> >looking for ?..How have others implemented an electric prime ?
>
> Been trying to whip up universal in
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> ================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Griesdale" <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric primers |
Dear Robert (Part 2, electric primer solenoid). I forgot to mention that the
l/8 line from the gascolator goes directly to the solenoid THEN to the manifold.
On the panel I use a momentary SPST switch (spring return). To further complicate
this already simple and reliable priming system a little light on the
panel tells me that the primer circuit is closed and operating. I hope this
helps. I'll get back to you on the ports.
Rob Griesdale, Cayley, Alberta----------
>
>
> Dear Robert
> The Primer Solenoid in the Aircraft Spruce Cat. indeed has wires. Simply
> connect a l/8 in. tube from the top of the gascolator to a 4 port manifold
> (also available from AC Spruce, page l05, new catalogue) and prime three
> cylinders. The fuel pump will be ON during this exercise. I find that a 5
> second prime on a cold day is adequate. This will vary. The solenoid in
> question has two ports, numbered l and 2. I had to phone the manufacturer to
> find out which was "in" and "out". At this moment I cannot remember. Stay
> tuned while I check the A/C. I also connected this solenoid in parallel with
> a tradional manual primer in the event of a battery failure (read dead).
> Rob Griesdale, Cayley, Alberta, RV-6A, C-GWPC.
>
>
> ----------
> >
> >
> >
> > >This may be a long post, so hit delete now if you like.
> > >I would like to install an electric primer because it gets two more gas
> > >lines out of the cabin, and also the cost of manual primers is getting
> right
> > >up there.
> > >Aircraft Spruce has an electric primer solenoid which shows an inlet and
> > >outlet port, but I cannot see any wires or connectors to activate it. Is it
> > >a pump ? It is recommended for Long Eze types. I called to ask my
> questions,
> > >and guess what ? They don't know anything about this items use. They gave
> > >me a 1-800-- number to call for answers. They turn out to be a
> > >distributor/supplier, not the maker, so they were even more in a fog.
> > >Does anyone know how these are fitted into the system and are they what I
> am
> > >looking for ?..How have others implemented an electric prime ?
> >
> > Been trying to whip up universal in
> >
> > Bob . . .
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > ================================
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Try using a flat face shield for a motorcycle helmet. More than likely,
no heating will be required.
Sam Buchanan (RV6 engine baffling, panel, and wiring)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> I,m making the landing light leading edge lenses from lexan. Has anyone
> successfully made their lenses out of lexan? I heated it in the oven to
> 300 degrees for 10 minutes and it barely bent. Any ideas on how much
> heat and for how long?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to "swing" a compass? |
>If you can't get a good correlation then you need to remove magnetic
materials
>from the compass's sphere of influence or degauss magnetized items.
>
>-GV
George
Should all of these instructions be carried out with the engine running and
all electrical equipment turned on?
Derek Reed OR. 6A Fus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: How to "swing" a compass? |
>
>
>>If you can't get a good correlation then you need to remove magnetic
>materials
>>from the compass's sphere of influence or degauss magnetized items.
>>
>>-GV
>
>
>George
>
>Should all of these instructions be carried out with the engine running and
>all electrical equipment turned on?
>
>
>Derek Reed OR. 6A Fus.
>
Absolutely, anything that can affect the compass must be operating as
it would in flight.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Parachute |
Dick;
Thanks for the offer; a local parachute shop says to avoid anything over
20 years old, they and apparently most shops will not repack anything
over that age. Thanks anyway, and enjoy the RV-8!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Dear Von,
>I have a WW2 era seatpack in good condition that I will sell. It does
>need
>to be repacked. I bought it years ago as new surplus , however I did
>not
>like sitting on it and bought a back pack. Make offer.
>Dick Martin
>RV8 80124
>
>----------
>> From: n41va(at)Juno.com
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Looking for Parachute
>> Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 3:26 PM
>>
>>
>> For the first 25 hours or so, I am planning to wear a parachute for
>my
>> RV-8 test period. Would like to just buy one; does anyone have one
>they
>> would like to sell? Need a seat pack type, weight 170lbs. Or
>> recommendations on where to find one for a reasonable price? Thanks.
>> Von Alexander
>> N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Advice on Parachute |
Listers;
I have located (among others) a Security #160 emergency parachute that is
designed for sailplanes and aerobatic test flying. It is 2" thick, and is
a seat and back pack style. It is limited to use below 150 mph, which I
assume is not a problem, since in a free fall a human doesn't exceed
this, right? This unit has a conventional canopy, and is from the 70's or
80's and has not been re- packed for 10 years, but has been kept inside
the house in a closet during this time. The price seems right. I would
like to know if this would be a good unit to use for my RV-8? Any
skydivers out there? Also, since I have never gone skydiving, and don't
plan to unless I have to, can I get some advice on exiting techniques,
how long to free fall before activating the chute, etc. etc. Just some
tips would be appreciated. Vans says there has never been a known bail
out in an RV, but the peace of mind from having that option is worth it
to me. Thanks in advance.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
(RV-8 goes to the airport tomorrow,
weather willing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
I've done a lot of military static line and free- fall parachuting and would
recommend the advice of the one of our 'chute shop supervisors, Al Silver- one
of the authorities on all aspects of parachuting. His E-mail is
silver(at)pia.com. Phone 510-785-7070.
Brian Trubee
RV-4 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/31/99 5:30:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
planejoe(at)flnet.com writes:
<< I have the sliding canopy with the stainless steel support bar and would
like to mount my compass on it. Does anyone know of a compass with the
mounting bracket on top >>
I have the Precision Vertical Card Compass. I modified a bracket that came
with it but I was later told that they have a special bracket that they sell
for the RV series. Precision is in Houston, TX and can be reached at
713-644-7383.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Compass mounting |
>
> I have the sliding canopy with the stainless steel support bar and
> would like to mount my compass on it. Does anyone know of a compass
> with the mounting bracket on top, dont believe I want to mount a box
> bracket around the compass seems it would be quite large and curtail
> visibility. TU ahead
Try the Airpath C2400-L4VT. It has an angled overhead mount. Not
quite the right angle for the rollover brace, but easy to adapt
unobtrusively.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Break-in--thiefs |
Moe,
Last year I had the Seneca parked on the ramp at Linden Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
That dosen't suprise me.
The melt temp for polycarbonate plastics to be injected is around
575degrees F.
Forming temp would not be that high but would not be far away.
Lexan is a brand name. Polycarbonate is the generic name.
Bill Jaugilas
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> I,m making the landing light leading edge lenses from lexan. Has anyone
> successfully made their lenses out of lexan? I heated it in the oven to
> 300 degrees for 10 minutes and it barely bent. Any ideas on how much
> heat and for how long?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 in RV8? |
Hi my name is john bunn and i am building an 8 in indianapolis in.. John
Marshell
317-862-2389 is building two 8's with io-540. give hime a call. one of them
will fly in a mth or to, i think it is in the paint shop. John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Misdrilled elevator horns - update |
After discussing the issue with lots o' folks, I decided to go the
reweld route. I also made another decision - drilling the elevators on
the plane is an unecessary pain in the a**. I have a local race
car/engine builder who I trust to weld. I had him weld two 0.090"
plates about 1.5" wide and trimmed to fit inside the elevator horns
(away from the flange). It turned out quite well since it completely
filled the gap between the horns and the rod end bearing, so no more
washers are needed (yup, I measured it first). I was determined not to
make the same mistake again, so I jigged the elevators up back into the
empennage jig since I didn't have a flat table big enough. I am using
an extra set of V-block jigs to align the elevators in trail while
holding the horns together with the 1/4" center bearing bolt. The two
outboard jig blocks are elevated so that the main spars align. With the
two horns clamped together with no gap in between, drilling the bolt
hole is a now a no-brainer and worth the extra effort to guarantee the
elevators align. Now that they are jigged, the misalignment of the old
holes is very apparent and is almost half a diameter!. I drilled a new
hole with a #13 bit using a drill guide and reamed it to 3/16".
Something else worth noting. I heeded the warnings I got about welding
4130 (chrom-moly). My welding guy confirmed that the stuff hardens when
welded and turns brittle if welded to hot. This is another reason I
chose not to simply fill the old hole with weld material and redrill
it. If you have anyone weld 4130 for you, make sure he keeps the heat
down to the minimum necessary to do the job. My welder kept dialing it
down during the job.
Chris Browne
-6A Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Misc. Building Tips, hopefully helpful to some |
Alex,
Is there a drawing or photo of that engine hoist available on the web?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----I wanted to share several building
tips with the group - some of these I
"borrowed" from others, and some are originals. I'm sure
that some of
these have already been on this list.
2. $85 engine hoist. The base is a rectangle consisting of
two 60" and two
49" 2x4's, bolted together with two 1/4" carriage bolts in
each corner.
Under each 60" board are bolted two castering wheels (200#
capacity each),
14" in from each end (32" from wheel to wheel). The
vertical portion
consists of four 84" long 3/4" rigid galvanized pipes,
fashioned into a
pyramid. At the bottom,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
Hi Von, I think I can offer some input here. I've been skydiving for 15
years, and have been a static-line and tandem instructor for 7years. I have
owned around a dozen different parachutes and worked on countless numbers of
them. For an emergency aircraft parachute you certainly don't need anything
fancy (some main skydiving units cost almost $2000 just for the main canopy)
but you do want something safe, and you want to make sure that the canopy is
the right size for your weight. There are a dizzying number of parachute
sizes, and if you get one that is too small you'll find the landing will
make you wish you had stayed with the aircraft.
Personally, I'd be a little concerned with a canopy that is that old. You
will definitely need to check out its history. There have been "AD-like"
bulletins on a few parachutes over the years primarily due to problems with
certain types of material and some parachutes have been permanently
grounded. You don't want one of these... You don't want to spend a fortune
on something you hope you'll never use, but you don't want to buy something
useless either. There are a lot of worthless canopies out there that some
unscrupulous (or unknowing) seller will try to get rid of "real cheap".
My advise is to find a licensed Master Rigger that preferably has been doing
it awhile and knows the background of these older rigs and have him
thoroughly check it out before handing over any money to the seller. You
can usually find one of these folks at your local drop zone (look under
parachuting, or skydiving in the yellow pages). If you can't find one I'll
be happy to look up the closest one to you or anyone else that's interested
in my "DZ guide" (it travels in the RV along with my parachute wherever I
go) The rigger may also be able to find you a better canopy locally.
Pilots of jump aircraft are required to wear the same thing you're looking
for, and this is a good place to look for one. You also might try
www.paragear.com for some general info and new pricing.
Most canopies are limited to 150mph by their TSO, I wouldn't worry about
that. A human body falls at 120mph in a *stable* position (belly to earth,
flat, not spinning), but anyone without skydiving training won't be stable.
Unstable you can fall as fast as 200mph - so don't do any skydiving if you
bail out. Get clear of the airplane, look at the handle, grab the handle
with both hands, pull the handle to full arm extension, and throw the handle
away in one motion.
BTW, don't eliminate the idea of trying a jump. I've taken a few local
aerobatic pilots up on a tandem jump and they said the experience was not
only a blast, but very educational. It made them a lot less apprehensive
about getting out if necessary. It will also teach you a lot about exit,
body position, opening, and general parachute operation. There is more info
on tandem jumping on my website. Let me know if I can be of any help.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 10:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need Advice on Parachute
>
>Listers;
>I have located (among others) a Security #160 emergency parachute that is
>designed for sailplanes and aerobatic test flying. It is 2" thick, and is
>a seat and back pack style. It is limited to use below 150 mph, which I
>assume is not a problem, since in a free fall a human doesn't exceed
>this, right? This unit has a conventional canopy, and is from the 70's or
>80's and has not been re- packed for 10 years, but has been kept inside
>the house in a closet during this time. The price seems right. I would
>like to know if this would be a good unit to use for my RV-8? Any
>skydivers out there? Also, since I have never gone skydiving, and don't
>plan to unless I have to, can I get some advice on exiting techniques,
>how long to free fall before activating the chute, etc. etc. Just some
>tips would be appreciated. Vans says there has never been a known bail
>out in an RV, but the peace of mind from having that option is worth it
>to me. Thanks in advance.
>
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>(RV-8 goes to the airport tomorrow,
>weather willing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misdrilled elevator horns - update |
When I mounted my elevators I found I could either have them aligned "in
trail" or I could have the balance weight arms aligned so that they were
both flush with the horizontal stab ends -- but I couldn't have it both
ways! My elevators are not twisted (anymore). On the plane, it was
difficult to establish "in trail" due to the taper in the elevators. I
finally split the difference with a little more bias towards having the
balance weight arms symmetrical as I was concerned about cosmetics. Just
something else to consider.
Dennis Persyk 6A panel
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 8:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Misdrilled elevator horns - update
> Some text deleted for brevity:
>I jigged the elevators up back into the
>empennage jig since I didn't have a flat table big enough. I am using
>an extra set of V-block jigs to align the elevators in trail while
>holding the horns together with the 1/4" center bearing bolt. The two
>outboard jig blocks are elevated so that the main spars align. With the
>two horns clamped together with no gap in between, drilling the bolt
>hole is a now a no-brainer and worth the extra effort to guarantee the
>elevators align. Now that they are jigged, the misalignment of the old
>holes is very apparent and is almost half a diameter!. I drilled a new
>hole with a #13 bit using a drill guide and reamed it to 3/16".
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control mount angle stock,RV8 |
Hi folks
This ever happen to you? It seems someone came into my shop and sawed up the
piece of "scrap" angle to be used for the control mount which sits in front of
the main bulkhead and bolts to a seat belt attach point. My question is can I
substitute the scrap of 2x2 1/2 for the sawed up 2x1 1/2. It is 1/16 inch
thicker. Or is that piece waiting to be used somewhere else? Heeeellllp.
Thanks
Dennis Clay
#80473
fuselage a comin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Baffle Advice Needed |
Am starting to rig the baffles on my 6A/0360CS and this
trimming-to-cowling business looks really problematic and
time-consuming...
Anybody out there got a shortcut? Or better yet, some trim line
distances for the CS? The trim info on the drawings is marginally
useful at best.
Don't wanna re-invent the wheel if I don't have to...
Jim 6A New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misdrilled elevator horns - update |
Hi Dennis,
I thought of that, too, but settled on aligning the trailing edges and dealing
with the slight mismatch of the elevator horns, if any. I figure that it is
alot easier to deal with any cosmetic mismatch at the tips with fiberglass than
to have the elevators imparting a moment about the roll axis which would have to
be countered by aileron trim. Even more drag results from misaligned elevators
in slip stream. To be sure, it's not a big deal either way. My elevators were
misdrilled about 1/8"so I had both problems!
Chris Browne
-6A Atlanta
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> When I mounted my elevators I found I could either have them aligned "in
> trail" or I could have the balance weight arms aligned so that they were
> both flush with the horizontal stab ends -- but I couldn't have it both
> ways! My elevators are not twisted (anymore). On the plane, it was
> difficult to establish "in trail" due to the taper in the elevators. I
> finally split the difference with a little more bias towards having the
> balance weight arms symmetrical as I was concerned about cosmetics. Just
> something else to consider.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A panel
> Hampshire, IL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 8:37 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Misdrilled elevator horns - update
>
> > Some text deleted for brevity:
> >I jigged the elevators up back into the
> >empennage jig since I didn't have a flat table big enough. I am using
> >an extra set of V-block jigs to align the elevators in trail while
> >holding the horns together with the 1/4" center bearing bolt. The two
> >outboard jig blocks are elevated so that the main spars align. With the
> >two horns clamped together with no gap in between, drilling the bolt
> >hole is a now a no-brainer and worth the extra effort to guarantee the
> >elevators align. Now that they are jigged, the misalignment of the old
> >holes is very apparent and is almost half a diameter!. I drilled a new
> >hole with a #13 bit using a drill guide and reamed it to 3/16".
> >
> >Chris Browne
> >-6A Atlanta
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | mounting compass |
> I have the sliding canopy with the stainless steel support bar and would
> like to mount my compass on it. Does anyone know of a compass with the
> mounting bracket on top, dont believe I want to mount a box bracket around
> the compass seems it would be quite large and curtail visibility.
There's no reason (except maybe cosmetic) to have any kind of "box" that
encloses the whole compass. If you start with a standard panel mount
compass, you can make a bracket pretty easily that will be virtually no
more restricting to visibility than the compass alone. Just cut out of
.040 or .063 AL, a flat piece with a hole for the faceplate in it and
mounting screw holes. Trim it off square just outside the mounting
holes. Leave a tab on the top to bend down and clamp or screw to the
center bar.
This is the way it's done on a lot of cert. airplanes.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Template Trap |
> I just drilled the last 6 holes in my panel. They were the ones to mount my
> new PS Engineering intercom. Unfortunately, the drilling template supplied
> in the installation kit didn't come close to matching the actual holes in the
> faceplate for the intercom. Try and imagine the happy moment ($!!&*%!) when
I
> went to mount the thing.
>
> My suggestion: Check those templates before you drill.
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
> RV-6 with oblong holes where the intercom mounts.
Kyle (and everyone else):
Since the PS engineering intercom has a faceplate, you probably won't
care that much about the oblong holes in this case, but for mis-drilled
holes here or anywhere else on the panel, JB Weld is the thing. Of
course I never would make this kind of mistake, but I - ah -- have a
friend who used JB weld to fill several mis-drilled holes in his panel.
After sanding them smooth and painting you can't tell the difference.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Advice Needed |
> Am starting to rig the baffles on my 6A/0360CS and this
> trimming-to-cowling business looks really problematic and
> time-consuming...
Boy you said it buster
> Anybody out there got a shortcut? Or better yet, some trim line
> distances for the CS? The trim info on the drawings is marginally
> useful at best.
Why should you get this when I had to do it the hard way? :-)
But seriously, this is a good idea. I might be able to do this. I'll
try to remember to trace my baffles tonight, perhaps I can do that and
scan them in to a GIF file, to put on the web. Or just mail them.
Of course every installation will have differences so you'd want to be
careful about using any other person's templates. But a ballpark would
help a lot nonetheless. I know, I made several of my baffle pieces over
after over-trimming the originals. Not difficult since I had the
originals as templates and plenty of extra .032, but still a PITA.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L.R. BENTLEY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 forward skins |
Hi listers . A fellow builder has asked me to put this out to the list .
Can the F420 skins be drilled to the flange of the firewall once the
fuselage has been removed from the jig , will the fuselage be stable enough
in this area to permit this ? Many thanks .LLOYD BENTLEY RV 6 WINGS
RSA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Houston Area Builders? |
Marshall,
you didn't mention the inspiration and motivation that you guys have given to
many overseas visitors, including myself from Aberdeen in Scotland.
During the past seven years or so that I have been completing my own RV6a, I
have enjoyed many visits up to the hanger at Hooks, often topped off with a
flight in the spare seat of a '6 or '6a. Seeing those aircraft coming
together and being part of the enjoyment that followed was all the incentive I
needed.
By the way, did you ever find time for a paint-job ?
Regards to all,
John
G-RVEE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: mounting compass |
>There's no reason (except maybe cosmetic) to have any kind of "box" that
>encloses the whole compass.
>
>This is the way it's done on a lot of cert. airplanes.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
Randall/All,
All this talk about compass mounting has me re-thinking my plans. Many
that I talked to this past summer at various fly-ins recommended mounting a
handheld GPS centered and as high as possible in the panel. They then
recommended mounting the compass in the panel off center. I didnt actually
talk to anyone who had done this, just to a lot who wished they had. All
said that they hardly used the compass and so were really not concerned
about any accuracy issues as they were relying on GPS for nav. If I gotta
carry a compass in the panel I'd like it to be as accurate as I can make it.
How far away from other electronic gizmos does the compass need to be for
it to be accurate? If I move it to the left side of the panel it ends up
beside my planned location for a micro-encoder and above the comm and
transponder (less than 1" from the micro encoder; 3" above the xpndr). Is
this a problem? If mounted to the other side it ends up beside my AV8
engine monitor. It also ends up grouped with my engine instruments, not my
flight instruments which is not what I want. If I mount it out of the panel
on the forward canopy frame (RV-4) its directly above the GPS. Is this a
problem?
Ive just cut out the panel this past weekend. You dont really realize what
a tiny thing it is until you start trying to put stuff in it!
Mike Wills
RV-4 forward fuse details
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 forward skins |
I don't think so. The firewall area provides a great deal of stability. I
think he would risk introducing twist into the fuselage if he did not drill
this on the jig. He can leave them clecoed until he his ready to drill the
cowl mount hinges.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST mounting the throttle quadrant
>
>Hi listers . A fellow builder has asked me to put this out to the list .
>Can the F420 skins be drilled to the flange of the firewall once the
>fuselage has been removed from the jig , will the fuselage be stable enough
>in this area to permit this ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New builder question |
| From: | Carl Nation <carl(at)iserver.com> |
I received my rv-6 tailkit a week ago, and I'm still trying to get my
shop up to spec so that I can begin building. I live in Orem, Utah, and
I was wondering if there is anyone else within a hundred or so miles
of me who is building right now, and if you would mind letting me
observe your building technique/tools owned so that I might get a better idea
of how to go about getting started.
Thanks,
Carl Nation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV-bookstore - 4 new items |
Here are 4 new items at RV-ation bookstore
and a few sale items of older versions of a few items
NEW ITEMS:
1] Aircraft Fuel Metering Systems (carburetors)
2] Best of AMJ Maintenance Tips
3] 43.13B Acceptable Methods [THE NEW EDITION]
4] T-34 Association's Formation Flight Manual (by your request)
AIRCRAFT FUEL METERING SYSTEMS (carburetors/fuel injection)
A comprehensive guide to the workings and maintenance of aircraft fuel
metering systems including theory of operation, parts breakdown,
schematics, testing, overhaul, and troubleshooting.
71 pages $12.45
BEST OF AMJ MAINTENANCE TIPS
160 unique shop tools and procedures to make the most frustrating jobs
easy. Here is a fully illustrated guide of how to make them or do them,
from 15 years of shared experience from AMJ magazine. Why re-invent the
wheel? Useful, and fun stuff!
176 pages $13.50
T-34 ASSOCIATION FORMATION FLYING MANUAL
Applicable to any aircraft with full visibility from the cockpit. This
is a short but well done manual describing military technique of
formation procedure and technique. Would you want the guy on your left
to be without it? We found this book via the recommendations of several
people on the RV list. Thank you.
35 pages $10.95
43.13-1B ACCEPTABLE METHODS OF AIRCRAFT REPAIR
The NEW edition is due from the printers in about 1 week. The price is
unchanged at $18.95
Discounts on older versions
FAR-AIM 1998 - $10.00 (1 left)
43.13 Acceptable Methods; the last edition - $10.00 (2 left)
14 Years of the RV-ator; 1980-1993 - $10.00 (8 left)
16 Years of the RV-ator; 1980-1995 - $12.00 (1 left)
please order sale items by phone or e-mail to ensure they are still
available - 970-887-2207
Thanks,
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
970 887-2207
970 887-2197 fax
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
The phone air flow is 864 5764512 i use his fuel injection for mny yars
Claudio Purple pasion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
I found a site that is very useful while dreaming how long it will take you
to get somewhere in your RV, without getting the charts out..
http://www.indo.com/distance/
It will give you the lattitude/longitude and distance in miles (not statute,
but as the crow flies) /nautical miles
Check it out..
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
In a message dated 1/31/99 11:36:06 PM Central Standard Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< Any
skydivers out there? Also, since I have never gone skydiving, and don't
plan to unless I have to, can I get some advice on exiting techniques,
how long to free fall before activating the chute, etc. etc. >>
Von,
Get out any way you can, avoid any spinning (prop) or loose parts (the wing
that let go at 18G). Arch your back, look for the rip cord (it's probably not
where you thought you left it), pull the rip cord, count to five and look over
you shoulder you should a big unbrela over your head. There are some rules to
remember. 1: pull before the trees start to look big(500 ft if you want any
chance) . 2: Buy the man who saved your life (the guy who packed the
parachute) a bottle of any thing he wants.
Alan Kritzman
300 jumps, wife says I have to stay in the plane now.
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ameri-King caveat emptor |
I won't bore the list with the bizarre details of my personal tale of woe, but
I do feel I should warn anyone considering the purchase of an Ameri-King
AK-450 ELT to be certain you get one that never needs warranty repair. The
unit, when it works properly, seems to have lots of attractive features.
However, their customer service is so poor it almost defies belief. As I
write this, I am still pausing to slap my head and exclaim, "Duh!" reflecting
on the series of calls and faxes to the service department which ended only
minutes ago but has been dragging on for a month. It turns out they are NOT
going to charge me $120 to repair a $189 device that is 9 months into a two
year warranty period and has been returned twice with the same problem. Isn't
that NICE of them. That's not to say they weren't going to try to charge me.
Looking back, I am resentful that I let a two-bit piece of electronics ground
a forty thousand dollar airplane for six weeks. I am such a tight-wad. Well,
perhaps I did make a few local flights without the ELT, and maybe once or
twice I thought so hard about carrying a passenger that I may have actually
done it. If pressed, I'll use the Clinton defense.
If I have any more run-arounds with this company, I shall have to take it up
with Aircraft Spruce, from whom I bought the thing in the first place. Now
THAT should be interesting... the battle of the customer service departments:
who will be the best of the worst?!
This is one purchase I would definitely put on a credit card so as to have one
more recourse against the manufacturer in the event of a lemon. You have been
warned. Now have a good day and get back to driving rivets.
-Bill B RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Web-based RV chat |
In case anyone had poor luck using my web-based RV chat previously, we
made several fixes in the Java code which now works with Netscape
without problems, Mac or PC. It should be more responsive as well. How
about setting up some "common" times to try to meet?
http://www.aftershock.org/chat/rv_chat.htm
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Advice Needed |
>
>Am starting to rig the baffles on my 6A/0360CS and this
>trimming-to-cowling business looks really problematic and
>time-consuming...
>
>Anybody out there got a shortcut?
I positioned the top cowl 11 5/8 above the bottom cowl and then reached in
with a plumb bob attached to a stick and marked the baffles 12 inches down
from the bottom of the top cowl. This worked very well.
It was easier than expected to locate the top cowl precisely above the
bottom cowl and engine baffles. I bent 4 hinge pins with 11 5/8 distance
between two stubs 1/2 inch long and bent 90 degrees to form a U shape with
a very long (11 and 5/8 ) base. These 4 hinge pins were used as vertical
risers by inserting the stubs into top and bottom cowling hinge hoops at
each corner. Plumb bobs were hung on each corner of the top cowl. The top
cowl was then positioned directly above the bottom half using a long hinge
pin that was inserted in a forward hoop of the top cowl and then clamped to
the lower cowl hinge near the aft end. This formed a diagonal brace between
the bottom and top side hinges. The top cowl was aligned fore and aft using
the plumb bobs by lengthening or shortening this diagonal with the clamp. A
similar diagonal brace was used at the firewall hinge to aligned the top
cowl left and right.
I dropped a plumb bob down 12 inches from the bottom of the top cowl and
marked every few inches along the baffles. Connecting the dots and
trimming to this line gave a 3/8 gap between the baffle and the top cowl.
Note, I have the S cowl which is quite light. This may have contributed to
the ease of suspending the top cowl on 4 hinge sections above the bottom cowl.
Bob
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: mounting compass |
> Randall/All,
> All this talk about compass mounting has me re-thinking my plans. Many
> that I talked to this past summer at various fly-ins recommended mounting a
> handheld GPS centered and as high as possible in the panel. They then
> recommended mounting the compass in the panel off center. I didnt actually
> talk to anyone who had done this, just to a lot who wished they had.
[snip]
I really don't think I'd worry too much about the compass if I were
building a VFR only/GPS equipped plane. In that case I would stick it
wherever it fits, try to minimize the magnetic interference but not get
too carried away with it, and not worry about whether it's close to the
middle of my field of view.
For IFR, it's another matter. In that case it's still probably going to
be what you use to tune your DG and for partial panel work (real or
simulated). So in that case I'd still want to make it as accurate and
as close to the center of my field of vision as I can make it.
Keep in mind you can compensate for a fair amount of error when you
swing the compass. It is also possible to de-magnetize steel parts --
Sacramanto Sky Ranch (http://www.sierra.net/skyranch) rents a device to
do this.
There has been discussion before on this list about using one of those
new electronic compasses, with the sensing unit installed remotely, for
a kind of high-tech/low-cost remote compass solution. Has anyone come
up with a slam-dunk-er for this yet?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Building Tips, hopefully helpful to some |
> Alex,
>
> Is there a drawing or photo of that engine hoist available on the web?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
Steve,
Sorry, no. I do have photos that I could scan at work, and email them to
someone who could post them, though.
Alex
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
> << Any
> skydivers out there? Also, since I have never gone skydiving, and don't
> plan to unless I have to, can I get some advice on exiting techniques,
> how long to free fall before activating the chute, etc. etc. >>
> Von,
I am certainly no expert - I have no sky diving training, so I offer
the following as food for thought. I would appreciate comments from
those with more experience.
I spent a year in France - one of the funnest aircraft I was flying
was the CAP 10. The CAP 10 is sort of like a wooden slider RV-6 -
very popular in France as an aerobatic trainer. A wonderful
aircraft. It handled a lot like an RV, but was much slower.
We always flew with a helmet and chute, and the chute had a static
line that you clipped to a ring on the shoulder harness. The line
was a piece of nylon cord about 50 ft long (as I remember). It was
held by an elastic band in such a way that it was kept captive, but
would pull out without tangling.
The theory was that if you hit your head on the aircraft, the chute
would still open even if you were knocked unconscious. I guess the
trick is to make sure the static line is long enough so you are well
clear of the aircraft when the chute opens, and to have the line
arranged so that it does not get tangled and pull the chute
prematurely. You do have to remember to unclip the static line from
the shoulder harness when getting out after your flight. I had
visions of spilling the chute all over the ramp.
I don't know how many people actually get knocked unconscious when
exiting the aircraft, so this might be too small a risk to worry
about.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Email List and Website Online! |
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/rocket-list
Hey there Rocket men!!
Team Rocket now has a Rocket-List, similar to the RV-List, for answering
builder questions and for builder support. Thanks to Matt Dralle, also creator
of the RV-List, we are now up and going. Thanks Matt!! Pass the word to other
Rocket Builders. YOUR TURN IS COMING....
Scott Brown
Mark Frederick
Team Rocket, LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terry" <Gannont(at)Fracmaster.com> |
| Subject: | Interstates / Runways |
'Listers - although only peripherally related to RVs, I ran into a fella
over the weekend that mentioned what sounds like an interesting factoid
(CNN-lingo)...he said that when the Interstates were originally designed,
every *fifth* mile had to be straight and level enough to land military
aircraft.
It has a certain Cold War ring of truth, so I was just wondering if this was
true, and if so, is it still the case today, when building new interstates?
I'm not sure that a crowded interstate would be a good place to land even if
it is straight and level, but that's another matter for another day, I
guess.
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings, Ailerons, Flaps"
http://members.home.net/gannont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
Here another site that will figure distances, plus find airports in between
with a max legs with the fuel type you want.
http://www.airnav.com/plan/fuel/short.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Besing, Paul <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Distance Calculator: Really Cool!
>
>I found a site that is very useful while dreaming how long it will take you
>to get somewhere in your RV, without getting the charts out..
>
>http://www.indo.com/distance/
>
>It will give you the lattitude/longitude and distance in miles (not
statute,
>but as the crow flies) /nautical miles
>
>Check it out..
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Rocket Men and RVers,
I am looking for an RV4 wing for sale. If anyone has one or knows of one
available, please let me know. Thanks!!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
Jim,
Having just done the baffles a couple of weeks ago, I do agree that trim
lines would save you a little bit of time. I was actually surprised how much
material is removed from the baffles. Seems to me Van's makes them extra
long. The best way to trim is to have a little perseverance, a pen taped to
a stick, and your snips. I think it took me about two hours to do the
trimming the conventional way.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ, working on gear leg stiffeners
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
Paul,
Yuo are right - It's Cool. Have added to my bookmarks.
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8a
>From: "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com>
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Distance Calculator: Really Cool!
>Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 16:28:50 -0700
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>I found a site that is very useful while dreaming how long it will take
you
>to get somewhere in your RV, without getting the charts out..
>
>http://www.indo.com/distance/
>
>It will give you the lattitude/longitude and distance in miles (not
statute,
>but as the crow flies) /nautical miles
>
>Check it out..
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: mounting compass |
> How far away from other electronic gizmos does the compass need to be for
> it to be accurate?
That's a tough question. When I hold my compass close to just about any
electronic device in my panel, it seems to me about 6-8 inches is what
it takes to eliminate _noticable_ error. But all this stuff adds up so
you'd have to go further than that to really minimize the errors.
Unfortunately, this makes it virtually impossible in my RV-6, with the
avionics right in the middle, to get my compass out of range short of
putting it way up on the roll bar which also puts it way aft and
virtually in my face, and also close to the 4130 steel roll bar. Not to
mention blocking the view more than I'd like. Oh and don't forget
nut-plates and steel screws holding the panel in (6 slider). The net of
it is that there's NO WAY I can get the compass far enough from
everything that it is unaffected.
I will be flying IFR in my plane so I do care about this, but frankly
after trying all possible alternatives, I saw no way short of moving all
my avionics and electrical instruments to the bottom of the panel, to
keep from getting significant interference from them. So I just punted
and put my compass on a pedestal on the glareshield. I'm hoping I can
swing the compass to compensate for all this stuff, unless I can find an
electronic remote compass solution for a resonable cost.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
> beside my planned location for a micro-encoder and above the comm and
> transponder (less than 1" from the micro encoder; 3" above the xpndr). Is
> this a problem? If mounted to the other side it ends up beside my AV8
> engine monitor. It also ends up grouped with my engine instruments, not my
> flight instruments which is not what I want. If I mount it out of the panel
> on the forward canopy frame (RV-4) its directly above the GPS. Is this a
> problem?
> Ive just cut out the panel this past weekend. You dont really realize what
> a tiny thing it is until you start trying to put stuff in it!
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 forward fuse details
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: mounting compass |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Mike,
On my RV-4, I mounted the compass above the panel, on the canopy frame.
It's the perfect place for it, not really in your vision but right there
when you want to read it. I used a piece of .063-pop rivited to the
underside of the square tube canopy frame with 5 LP4-3's as a shelf. The
.063 has to be formed slightly to conform. the compass is a pedastal
mount type. I stuck an adhesive backed rubber bumper to the back of the
case that bears on the canopy plexi and steadys the whole thing. On a
4,panel space is too precious to waste on a compass. It is unaffected by
the electronics just below on the panel.
Best regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Noble" <apple(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need Advice on Parachute
>
>Listers;
>I have located (among others) a Security #160 emergency parachute that is
>designed for sailplanes and aerobatic test flying. It is 2" thick, and is
>a seat and back pack style. It is limited to use below 150 mph, which I
>assume is not a problem, since in a free fall a human doesn't exceed
>this, right? This unit has a conventional canopy, and is from the 70's or
>80's and has not been re- packed for 10 years, but has been kept inside
>the house in a closet during this time.
Von,
As on old sailplane pilot who spent more than a decade flying around
with a
Security 150 on my backside, I can tell you that this parachute passes the
most important test; comfort. As crazy as it sounds, if the chute is
uncomfortable, then wearing it becomes 'a bother' and the chute is home in
the closet just when it is needed.
Parachutes are like airplanes and engines however. Don't ever buy one
without making sure that all AD's have been complied with. There have been
some instances where certain chemicals used as Anti-fungal agents used to
coat the fibers have been found to reduce the strength of the fabric after
extended periods.
Just insist that the seller get the chute packed by a certified rigger
and any potential problems will surface before you write the check.
Jack Noble
Seattle RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
I don't know if it's still true but there are sections of certain roads in
strategic locations built with this in mind. I have spotted a few. Most
notably, no poles or other obstructions, tree lines cut way back, flat, and
straight. BTW this is common in western European countries. They close the
road and conduct military ops. usually on weekends, just like we have Natl.
Guard activities.
Dan Morris
-----Original Message-----
From: Gannon, Terry <Gannont(at)Fracmaster.com>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 5:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Interstates / Runways
>
>'Listers - although only peripherally related to RVs, I ran into a fella
>over the weekend that mentioned what sounds like an interesting factoid
>(CNN-lingo)...he said that when the Interstates were originally designed,
>every *fifth* mile had to be straight and level enough to land military
>aircraft.
>
>It has a certain Cold War ring of truth, so I was just wondering if this
was
>true, and if so, is it still the case today, when building new interstates?
>I'm not sure that a crowded interstate would be a good place to land even
if
>it is straight and level, but that's another matter for another day, I
>guess.
>
>Terry in Calgary
>RV-6 S/N 24414
>"Wings, Ailerons, Flaps"
>http://members.home.net/gannont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Used engines |
I used a H2AD engine with Ed Sterba 68/76 prop. in my "6." I find it to be a
nice combination and I'm happy with the performance and cost. The fuel pump is
mounted up front and modification will have to be made to the upper cowling,
but it also happens to be probably the coolest place in the engine
compartment, lessens the chance of vapor lock. I don't think that Van's
offers a baffle kit for it, so unless you can find a use one you'll have to
build one from scratch, I did.
Gil T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Self Etching Primers |
In need of an answer about how self etching primers should work. I
primed several parts of the 8 horiz stabilizer with Marhyde which had
several areas of orange peel,I removed it with lacquer thinner and the
alclad was as bright as before. Shouldn't it have etched the alclad,or
is this how they are supposed to work? I'm thinking about using the
vari-prime or SW. Any thought's
Chris Santschi #80881
Festus MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New 6 Cowling |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
Hi , Does anyone have weight and balance for a RV-6A with a light 0-320
and wood prop.? I am asking the question because I am ready to order my
finishing kit and understand the extra price lighter cowling may lighten
the front of the plane too much. No reason to pay more if it is going to
put my CG aft of ideal. Thanks, David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McLaughlin" <johnmc49(at)ecity.net> |
| Subject: | Attn: RV clubs/pilots |
Contact: John McLaughlin, KCCI-TV, 515-247-8888 johnmc49(at)ecity.net
For Immediate Release:
Des Moines Media Team Up to Promote Major Aviation Event!
The dominant commercial television and FM radio station in Des Moines, Iowa,
have joined forces to present the first annual "Wings, Wheels and Water
Festival" slated for a specially-built exposition park near the northern Des
Moines suburb of Ankeny, Iowa (IKV). KCCI-TV8 and KSTZ-Star 102.5 FM radio
have pledged more than $75,000 in promotional announcements and live
broadcasts from the event, to be held September 25-26, 1999.
KCCI-TV meteorologist John McLaughlin, an instrument-rated pilot and RV-6A
builder is developing the aviation aspect of the show. McLaughlin says, "we
are going to take every advantage of this unique media partnership to bring
new faces into aviation." "Whether people come to attend the concerts
provided by the radio station, or see racing and boating exhibits, they are
going to be exposed to aviation in ways they have never seen before," notes
McLaughlin.
The show has booked several jet airshow acts, along with a display of
historic aircraft like the EAA Spirit of St. Louis replica. Experimental and
ultralight aviation is also being prominently displayed on the 79-acre site.
Local fixed base operators are supporting the Wings, Wheels and Water
Festival by cooperating in a Learn to Fly Center. Each operator has donated
10 discovery flights and will have computer-based training simulators along
with new Cessna and Piper aircraft on display.
Aviation journalist and aircraft insurance agent Scott "Sky" Smith is
co-organizing the two-day festival. Smith points out that this is a family
event, with a carnival, disk golf, hayrack rides and many other activities
packaged with a professional airshow, racing cars, motorcycles, boats and
other unique vehicles. "If general aviation is to have any future, we have
to get young people invigorated about airplanes and flight training through
events like this," says Smith.
Between the television and radio station, the message will be broadcast to
more than 1.2 million people in Iowa with an intense promotional schedule
consisting of nearly 1,000 broadcast announcements. McLaughlin and Smith
expect the show will attract more than 70,000 people to the site.
Those interested in participating in the Wings, Wheels and Water Festival
can contact McLaughlin or Smith through www.wingswheelswater.com, or call
515-289-1439. Vendor packages are available for profit and non-profit
organizations. Special ticket discounts are available to aircraft clubs and
organizations wishing to attend the festival.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Parachute |
Re: Kevin Horton's comments on parachute STATIC LINE.
When I was instructing in the turboprop T-34C down at Pensacola, (a non
ejection seat aircraft) our parachutes had a static line, which was attached
to a stud on the seat frame. As previously discussed, once you are clear of
the aircraft in a bailout situation, the chute is opened automatically once
your static line is pulled out to full extension, thereby pulling the ripcord.
I thought it to be an excellent idea. Besides the "knocked unconscious"
scenario, it also made sense, having inexperienced students (read passengers)
in the aircraft; in the heat of the battle the D-ring can be hard to find
(even for experienced aircrew); you may have injuries (in-flight fire, midair
collision, etc) preventing your pulling the handle, etc. Why not make things
as simple/foolproof as possible? I once addressed this issue with a dealer of
sailplane(primairly) emergency 'chutes who basically poo-pooed the idea, but I
suspect it was a case of "not invented here" or it just wasn't available in
his product line. But until someone can give me a good reason not to so, I
plan on having a static line setup in my -4 (BOTH seats).
Doug Seward
-4, wings, Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King caveat emptor |
yes I'll agree, be very careful with Ameri-King. there should be others out there
who will honor their 2 year warantees as they are suppose to. As for me , Never
again with them....
Phil
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I won't bore the list with the bizarre details of my personal tale of woe, but
> I do feel I should warn anyone considering the purchase of an Ameri-King
> AK-450 ELT to be certain you get one that never needs warranty repair. The
> unit, when it works properly, seems to have lots of attractive features.
> However, their customer service is so poor it almost defies belief. As I
> write this, I am still pausing to slap my head and exclaim, "Duh!" reflecting
> on the series of calls and faxes to the service department which ended only
> minutes ago but has been dragging on for a month. It turns out they are NOT
> going to charge me $120 to repair a $189 device that is 9 months into a two
> year warranty period and has been returned twice with the same problem. Isn't
> that NICE of them. That's not to say they weren't going to try to charge me.
>
> Looking back, I am resentful that I let a two-bit piece of electronics ground
> a forty thousand dollar airplane for six weeks. I am such a tight-wad. Well,
> perhaps I did make a few local flights without the ELT, and maybe once or
> twice I thought so hard about carrying a passenger that I may have actually
> done it. If pressed, I'll use the Clinton defense.
>
> If I have any more run-arounds with this company, I shall have to take it up
> with Aircraft Spruce, from whom I bought the thing in the first place. Now
> THAT should be interesting... the battle of the customer service departments:
> who will be the best of the worst?!
>
> This is one purchase I would definitely put on a credit card so as to have one
> more recourse against the manufacturer in the event of a lemon. You have been
> warned. Now have a good day and get back to driving rivets.
>
> -Bill B RV-6A
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
wat is the big deal about charts ask claudio about atrip to sao paulo brazil
in a RV4 without any good charts tanks the aopa in1988
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: mounting compass |
In a message dated 2/1/99 2:41:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< andall/All,
All this talk about compass mounting has me re-thinking my plans. >>
------- Mike, Before installing
the compass in my -4, I placed my micro
encoder and engine monitor on the bench, put the mag compass between them and
powered them up. There was no deviation. These things draw verry little power.
Fred LaForge RV-4 35 hrs logged
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: control mount angle stock,RV8 |
>Hi folks
>This ever happen to you? It seems someone came into my shop and sawed
>up the
>piece of "scrap" angle to be used for the control mount which sits in
>front of
>the main bulkhead and bolts to a seat belt attach point. My question
>is can I
>substitute the scrap of 2x2 1/2 for the sawed up 2x1 1/2. It is 1/16
>inch
>thicker. Or is that piece waiting to be used somewhere else?
>Heeeellllp.
>Thanks
>Dennis Clay
>#80473
>fuselage a comin
>
>
If the 2 X 2 1/2 is the left over from making the fuel tank fwd support
brackets... the remainder that you have shouldn't be needed for anything
else, and could be used to make the bracket that you mentioned.
The rod end that installs on it should have more than enough adjustment
range to allow for the thicker bracket.
Your problem will be that the long AN3 bolts that attach the bracket to
the F-804 bulkhead assy. will likely be too short.
Has your fuse kit shipped yet?
If not, then call the office and have them throw a small piece in the box
for you.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 forward skins |
>Hi listers . A fellow builder has asked me to put this out to the list
>.
>Can the F420 skins be drilled to the flange of the firewall once the
>fuselage has been removed from the jig , will the fuselage be stable
>enough
>in this area to permit this ? Many thanks .LLOYD BENTLEY RV 6 WINGS
>
>RSA
>
>
I think he could do this if he wanted too but I don't recommend it
because he will not be able to do a nice job dimpling the skin and
firewall flange at the same time. It will also be difficult to do a good
job of deburring and getting all of the chips out from between the skin
and firewall.
He probably wants to do this because the jig is in the way so I will
suggest he do the same as is recommended in the RV-8(A) manual.
It recommends that the builder drill all of the holes, debur while the
skin is off, and dimple the holes in the skin.
After the skin is riveted on and the fuse is removed from the jig he can
redimple all of the firewall flange holes (now that the jig is out of the
way) by dimpling trough the skin holes that are already dimpled. This
works very well because the firewall material is so soft. Dimpling the
skin and the firewall flange together does not work nearly as well.
After the holes are all dimpled the hinges for the cowl attachment can be
back drilled through them.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Self Etching Primers |
When using Marhyde, I still scuff the aluminum with a grey scotch-brite pad.
The majority of my project is done with a two-part epoxy. I either use the
scotch-brite pad, or acid etch. I don't bother with the alodine.
Acid etching is a real easy way to do many parts fast. Unfortunately, I have
to wait for summer for the garden hose & the sun.
L.Adamson RV6A --- just completed bottom half of fusalage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King caveat emptor |
>Looking back, I am resentful that I let a two-bit piece of electronics
>ground
>a forty thousand dollar airplane for six weeks. I am such a
>tight-wad. Well,
>perhaps I did make a few local flights without the ELT, and maybe once
>or
>twice I thought so hard about carrying a passenger that I may have
>actually
>done it. If pressed, I'll use the Clinton defense.
>
>
I don't remember the specifics of the FAR's but I am certain that you can
legally fly without the ELT. If I remember correctly, you can fly within
a 50 mile radius if you have removed the ELT for repairs if the aircraft
has been placarded on the panel "ELT removed for repair"
Note: You can only do this if the ELT is removed for repair. Taking it
out because it doesn't work (without sending it off to be repaired) or
the batteries are expired doesn't count.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Advice Needed |
Jim;
What worked well for me was to mount ONE baffle at a time and then mount
the upper cowling, mark and cut a little at a time til it fits right.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Am starting to rig the baffles on my 6A/0360CS and this
>trimming-to-cowling business looks really problematic and
>time-consuming...
>
>Anybody out there got a shortcut? Or better yet, some trim line
>distances for the CS? The trim info on the drawings is marginally
>useful at best.
>
>Don't wanna re-invent the wheel if I don't have to...
>
>Jim 6A New Mexico
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
As a military pilot for twenty years, I never heard of any USA highways
setup to be used as runways. However, in Germany and some other European
counties, there are emergency runways to be used in war time (Cold into
Hot). There were maybe five to ten in the whole country. It takes a lot
more effort to turn a road into a runway which can handle military aircraft
than you would think. It is my understanding that the foundation and
thickness of the concrete on runways is several TIMES that of normal roads.
It was always interesting to drive on one base in Germany as the road into
the base was just one example. Besides the normal road markings, there were
runway markings too. There were also housings for the emergency barriers
used to land aircraft with problems. I did see several others during my
time stationed over there.
Just because I never heard of it don't make it false, I just don't believe
it.
Tom
Thomas Gummo
USAF, Major, Retired
Pilot F-4G Wild Weasel
mounting tail surfaces on N563FS (for 563rd Fighter Squadron) reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "true(at)uswest.net |
by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Feb 1999 10":07:45.-0000(at)matronics.com
Listers,
I have been following this thread with interest, as I have done
some skydiving (50 jumps) and know that parachutes will be standard
equipment in my RV. There have already been several excellent posts by
a few skydivers who are far more experienced than I. The thoughts that
I would add are as follows:
1) I would strongly urge every builder who is contemplating parachutes
as standard equipment for their aircraft to go to a USPA approved
dropzone and take a first jump course. There is nothing that will
prepare you better than actually making a parachute jump. IMHO, there
are too many aspects involved in making a safe and survivable bailout to
be left to chance. One of the other listers has already talked about
the importance of achieving a stable body position before opening to
reduce the chances of a canopy malfunction. Also knowing how to fly the
canopy could make the difference between landing in a clearing or a
boulder field. Finally, if you don't know how to land you can be
seriously injured or even killed.
2) Most of the emergency parachutes commonly available are round
canopies. They are steerable, and have a little bit of forward drive,
but NOT MUCH. You also land very hard. I know this from personal
experience. The reason most of the emergency chutes have round canopies
is because the manufacturers assume (correctly) that your typical pilot
has never jumped before and knows nothing about parachutes, and he is
less likely to kill himself landing the wrong way under a round canopy.
I firmly believe that a modern ram-air square canopy of the type that
every skydiver uses is the way to go for an emergency chute, but ONLY if
you know how to fly it. These canopies fly 30 mph, you fly a landing
pattern just like in an airplane. You can "put the brakes on" at the
last moment for a landing that is like stepping off a curb, but again,
only if you know how. You can fly a great distance horizontally with a
square canopy, giving you a lot more options on where to land. Take the
course and learn how to fly it. If there is someone who will be flying
with you often (like your spouse) have her take the first jump course
too, and talk to her ahead of time about how to get out of the
aircraft. In the event of a catastrophic occurrence such as a mid-air
or a structural failure, you won't have a chance to discuss it. If you
are to have a chance at survival, you and your passenger will just have
to know what to do, and be able to do it immediately and automatically.
3) I have given a lot of thought to just how you would safely bail out
of an RV. A few years ago at the Phoenix Air Races, one of the racers
had to bail out of his burning Sea Fury. He survived, but sustained
severe injuries as a result of impacting the horizontal stabilizer as he
exited the aircraft. Exiting an RV would appear to present the same
hazard. I've thought about how you could prevent this, and frankly I
just don't know the answer. I remember reading that Spitfire pilots and
ME-109 pilots in WWII would roll the aircraft inverted, pop their
seatbelt and simply fall out. Does anybody with some real knowledge
about this have an opinion they could offer?
George True, Phoenix, AZ
RV-8, hopefully starting very soon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King caveat emptor |
>>If I have any more run-arounds with this company, I shall have to
take it up with Aircraft Spruce, from whom I bought the thing in the
first place. Now THAT should be interesting... the battle of the
customer service departments: who will be the best of the worst?!<<
You got that right! I've ended up sending stuff back to ASS because
it was junk. I personally believe that ASS is a junk distributor. I don't
believe them when they talk about how good their products are and
how few problems they've had. I buy very little there, anymore.
>>This is one purchase I would definitely put on a credit card so as
to have one more recourse against the manufacturer in the event of
a lemon. You have been warned. Now have a good day and get
back to driving rivets. <<
Thanks for the warning. Yes, the credit card is our main line of
defense. It works for me. Although I haven't had to use it on my
project, I have used the charge back feature against another who
thought they could get away with things. Personally, I'd box that little
ELT right up, call ASS and ask for a RA number, send it back. Use
the credit against a better ELT. Fortunately, it looks like I bought a
better one because I got the warning on the one you have early
enough.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Doing engine controls. Wiring done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel flow performance |
In a message dated 2/1/99 5:18:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, planejoe(at)flnet.com
writes:
<< Does anyone know the phone # of a company called fuel flow performance.
Thanks in adv >>
Are you sure you don't mean Airflow Performance ?
Their number is 864-576-4512
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
Ah, but Claudio, remember you were "returning home". Your nose guided
you to the best food, your ears to the best music; you didn't need no
steenkin' charts. :-)
For those who don't know Claudio, his workshop is filled with classical
music, even while bucking rivets. As for the food, well, he *is*
Brazilian.
Claudio, glad to see you posting on the list.
Mike Pilla
former hangar mate
CTonnini(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> wat is the big deal about charts ask claudio about atrip to sao paulo brazil
> in a RV4 without any good charts tanks the aopa in1988
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Parachutes, opening the canopy in flight |
Does anyone know if you can get the canopy open in flight? I remember hearing somewhere
that there is a high pressure
area behind the 8 canopy that keeps it slammed shut. I think at the very least,
getting the rear seater out would be
impossible. Before I mount my canopy, hopefully sometime before Star Wars episode
10, I intend to take a good hard
look at some sort of jettison mechanism. Anyone know how those Nigerian Air Beetles
do it? I think getting the canopy
free and clear is the first step to a safe departure. I saw a good idea in the
Stewart S51. It has a crank that opens
and closes the canopy with a chain drive. I think this is a good alternative to
a jettison mechanism. It takes
longer, but you don't have to worry about holding the thing open while you try
to exit. For some first hand accounts
of bailouts, look in the NTSB accident reports. Do a search for accidents invoving
Pitts or Decathlons or some other
aerobatic aircraft. Some of the reports contain first hand accounts written by
the pilots.
true(at)uswest.net, , , , by, phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net, with, SMTP;, 2, Feb, 1999,
10:07:45.-0000(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I have been following this thread with interest, as I have done
> some skydiving (50 jumps) and know that parachutes will be standard
> equipment in my RV. There have already been several excellent posts by
> a few skydivers who are far more experienced than I. The thoughts that
> I would add are as follows:
>
> 1) I would strongly urge every builder who is contemplating parachutes
> as standard equipment for their aircraft to go to a USPA approved
> dropzone and take a first jump course. There is nothing that will
> prepare you better than actually making a parachute jump. IMHO, there
> are too many aspects involved in making a safe and survivable bailout to
> be left to chance. One of the other listers has already talked about
> the importance of achieving a stable body position before opening to
> reduce the chances of a canopy malfunction. Also knowing how to fly the
> canopy could make the difference between landing in a clearing or a
> boulder field. Finally, if you don't know how to land you can be
> seriously injured or even killed.
>
> 2) Most of the emergency parachutes commonly available are round
> canopies. They are steerable, and have a little bit of forward drive,
> but NOT MUCH. You also land very hard. I know this from personal
> experience. The reason most of the emergency chutes have round canopies
> is because the manufacturers assume (correctly) that your typical pilot
> has never jumped before and knows nothing about parachutes, and he is
> less likely to kill himself landing the wrong way under a round canopy.
> I firmly believe that a modern ram-air square canopy of the type that
> every skydiver uses is the way to go for an emergency chute, but ONLY if
> you know how to fly it. These canopies fly 30 mph, you fly a landing
> pattern just like in an airplane. You can "put the brakes on" at the
> last moment for a landing that is like stepping off a curb, but again,
> only if you know how. You can fly a great distance horizontally with a
> square canopy, giving you a lot more options on where to land. Take the
> course and learn how to fly it. If there is someone who will be flying
> with you often (like your spouse) have her take the first jump course
> too, and talk to her ahead of time about how to get out of the
> aircraft. In the event of a catastrophic occurrence such as a mid-air
> or a structural failure, you won't have a chance to discuss it. If you
> are to have a chance at survival, you and your passenger will just have
> to know what to do, and be able to do it immediately and automatically.
>
> 3) I have given a lot of thought to just how you would safely bail out
> of an RV. A few years ago at the Phoenix Air Races, one of the racers
> had to bail out of his burning Sea Fury. He survived, but sustained
> severe injuries as a result of impacting the horizontal stabilizer as he
> exited the aircraft. Exiting an RV would appear to present the same
> hazard. I've thought about how you could prevent this, and frankly I
> just don't know the answer. I remember reading that Spitfire pilots and
> ME-109 pilots in WWII would roll the aircraft inverted, pop their
> seatbelt and simply fall out. Does anybody with some real knowledge
> about this have an opinion they could offer?
>
> George True, Phoenix, AZ
> RV-8, hopefully starting very soon...
>
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
The Eisenhower Interstate system requires that one mile in every five must
be straight. These straight sections are usable as airstrips during wartime
emergencies.
Paul Besing
>
>As a military pilot for twenty years, I never heard of any USA highways
>setup to be used as runways. However, in Germany and some other European
>counties, there are emergency runways to be used in war time (Cold into
>Hot). There were maybe five to ten in the whole country. It takes a lot
>more effort to turn a road into a runway which can handle military aircraft
>than you would think. It is my understanding that the foundation and
>thickness of the concrete on runways is several TIMES that of normal roads.
>It was always interesting to drive on one base in Germany as the road into
>the base was just one example. Besides the normal road markings, there
were
>runway markings too. There were also housings for the emergency barriers
>used to land aircraft with problems. I did see several others during my
>time stationed over there.
>
>Just because I never heard of it don't make it false, I just don't believe
>it.
>
>Tom
>Thomas Gummo
>USAF, Major, Retired
>Pilot F-4G Wild Weasel
>
>mounting tail surfaces on N563FS (for 563rd Fighter Squadron) reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Self Etching Primers |
>
>
> In need of an answer about how self etching primers should work. I
>primed several parts of the 8 horiz stabilizer with Marhyde which had
>several areas of orange peel,I removed it with lacquer thinner and the
>alclad was as bright as before. Shouldn't it have etched the alclad,or
>is this how they are supposed to work? I'm thinking about using the
>vari-prime or SW. Any thought's
>
>Chris Santschi #80881
>Festus MO.
Chris,
I primed the entire fuselage on my -8 with Marhyde..with excellent
results. I scuffed every part with scotchbrite pad, and then cleaned
with acetone. I had no problems with orange-peel. Maybe a more thorough
cleaning/scuffing would help?
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
wiring stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New 6 Cowling |
-----Original Message-----
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 2:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: New 6 Cowling
>
>Hi , Does anyone have weight and balance for a RV-6A with a light 0-320
>and wood prop.?
_______
My 6 has a 0-360 and a wood prop and weighs 1050lbs. The CG is within the
envelope but the aircraft is tail heavy, especially with low fuel and
baggage. I have the heavy starter too. Recently I switched to a Sensenich
metal prop resulting in 35lbs added to the nose and a great improvement in
pitch stability at low speed. Save the money and use the standard cowling.
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,300hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
George;
Thanks for the excellent advice; I asked my wife if she would consider
taking a begining skydiving course; She says she's doing good just to fly
with me in the plane, let alone jump out of a perfectly good one! I
likewise do not intend to take any actual skydiving courses, but figure
that it is better to at least have the option....... I am interested in
the static line idea; although there is probably a down side to that. I
think it makes sense to just learn as much about it as you can; have a
good safe parachute that is properly packed and maintained; and rehearse
in your mind exactly what procedure to follow for egress, and teach all
this to your flying spouse, etc.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8(made it to the airport!)
phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Feb 1999
10":07:45.-0000(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>Listers,
> I have been following this thread with interest, as I have done
>some skydiving (50 jumps) and know that parachutes will be standard
>equipment in my RV. There have already been several excellent posts
>by
>a few skydivers who are far more experienced than I. The thoughts
>that
>I would add are as follows:
>
>1) I would strongly urge every builder who is contemplating
>parachutes
>as standard equipment for their aircraft to go to a USPA approved
>dropzone and take a first jump course. There is nothing that will
>prepare you better than actually making a parachute jump. IMHO, there
>are too many aspects involved in making a safe and survivable bailout
>to
>be left to chance. One of the other listers has already talked about
>the importance of achieving a stable body position before opening to
>reduce the chances of a canopy malfunction. Also knowing how to fly
>the
>canopy could make the difference between landing in a clearing or a
>boulder field. Finally, if you don't know how to land you can be
>seriously injured or even killed.
>
>2) Most of the emergency parachutes commonly available are round
>canopies. They are steerable, and have a little bit of forward drive,
>but NOT MUCH. You also land very hard. I know this from personal
>experience. The reason most of the emergency chutes have round
>canopies
>is because the manufacturers assume (correctly) that your typical
>pilot
>has never jumped before and knows nothing about parachutes, and he is
>less likely to kill himself landing the wrong way under a round
>canopy.
>I firmly believe that a modern ram-air square canopy of the type that
>every skydiver uses is the way to go for an emergency chute, but ONLY
>if
>you know how to fly it. These canopies fly 30 mph, you fly a landing
>pattern just like in an airplane. You can "put the brakes on" at the
>last moment for a landing that is like stepping off a curb, but again,
>only if you know how. You can fly a great distance horizontally with
>a
>square canopy, giving you a lot more options on where to land. Take
>the
>course and learn how to fly it. If there is someone who will be
>flying
>with you often (like your spouse) have her take the first jump course
>too, and talk to her ahead of time about how to get out of the
>aircraft. In the event of a catastrophic occurrence such as a mid-air
>or a structural failure, you won't have a chance to discuss it. If
>you
>are to have a chance at survival, you and your passenger will just
>have
>to know what to do, and be able to do it immediately and
>automatically.
>
>3) I have given a lot of thought to just how you would safely bail
>out
>of an RV. A few years ago at the Phoenix Air Races, one of the racers
>had to bail out of his burning Sea Fury. He survived, but sustained
>severe injuries as a result of impacting the horizontal stabilizer as
>he
>exited the aircraft. Exiting an RV would appear to present the same
>h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parachutes, opening the canopy in flight |
Moe; After getting an idea and checking with Scott McDaniels, I will pass
this on; For you RV-8 drivers only; use a pair of the 3/16" cotterless
hitch pins(instead of the called for AN-3 bolts) in the front of the
canopy where the frame attaches to the rollers. These hitch pins have
rings on them; face the rings back towards the pilot. In an emergency,
undo the latch, pull both pins, and give the canopy a good shove upward
into the slipstream. At this point only the small nylon slider block is
holding the canopy in the back, and will break off as the canopy
(hopefully) goes up and back over the tail.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Does anyone know if you can get the canopy open in flight? I remember
>hearing somewhere that there is a high pressure
>area behind the 8 canopy that keeps it slammed shut. I think at the
>very least, getting the rear seater out would be
>impossible. Before I mount my canopy, hopefully sometime before Star
>Wars episode 10, I intend to take a good hard
>look at some sort of jettison mechanism. Anyone know how those
>Nigerian Air Beetles do it? I think getting the canopy
>free and clear is the first step to a safe departure. I saw a good
>idea in the Stewart S51. It has a crank that opens
>and closes the canopy with a chain drive. I think this is a good
>alternative to a jettison mechanism. It takes
>longer, but you don't have to worry about holding the thing open while
>you try to exit. For some first hand accounts
>of bailouts, look in the NTSB accident reports. Do a search for
>accidents invoving Pitts or Decathlons or some other
>aerobatic aircraft. Some of the reports contain first hand accounts
>written by the pilots.
>
>true(at)uswest.net, , , , by, phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net, with, SMTP;, 2,
>Feb, 1999, 10:07:45.-0000(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I have been following this thread with interest, as I have done
>> some skydiving (50 jumps) and know that parachutes will be standard
>> equipment in my RV. There have already been several excellent posts
>by
>> a few skydivers who are far more experienced than I. The thoughts
>that
>> I would add are as follows:
>>
>> 1) I would strongly urge every builder who is contemplating
>parachutes
>> as standard equipment for their aircraft to go to a USPA approved
>> dropzone and take a first jump course. There is nothing that will
>> prepare you better than actually making a parachute jump. IMHO,
>there
>> are too many aspects involved in making a safe and survivable
>bailout to
>> be left to chance. One of the other listers has already talked
>about
>> the importance of achieving a stable body position before opening to
>> reduce the chances of a canopy malfunction. Also knowing how to fly
>the
>> canopy could make the difference between landing in a clearing or a
>> boulder field. Finally, if you don't know how to land you can be
>> seriously injured or even killed.
>>
>> 2) Most of the emergency parachutes commonly available are round
>> canopies. They are steerable, and have a little bit of forward
>drive,
>> but NOT MUCH. You also land very hard. I know this from personal
>> experience. The reason most of the emergency chutes have round
>canopies
>> is because the manufacturers assume (correctly) that your typical
>pilot
>> has never jumped before and knows nothing about parachutes, and he
>is
>> less likely to kill himself landing the wrong way under a round
>canopy.
>> I firmly believe that a modern ram-air square canopy of the type
>that
>> every skydiver uses is the way to go for an emergency chute, but
>ONLY if
>> you know how to fly it. These canopies fly 30 mph, you fly a
>landing
>> pattern just like in an airplane. You can "put the brakes on" at
>the
>> last moment for a landing that is like stepping off a curb, but
>again,
>> only if you know how. You can fly a great distance horizontally
>with a
>> square canopy, giving you a lot more options on where to land. Take
>the
>> course and learn how to fly it. If there is someone who will be
>flying
>> with you often (like your spouse) have her take the first jump
>course
>> too, and talk to her ahead of time about how to get out of the
>> aircraft. In the event of a catastrophic occurrence such as a
>mid-air
>> or a structural failure, you won't have a chance to discuss it. If
>you
>> are to have a chance at survival, you and your passenger will just
>have
>> to know what to do, and be able to do it immediately and
>automatically.
>>
>> 3) I have given a lot of thought to just how you would safely bail
>out
>> of an RV. A few years ago at the Phoenix Air Races, one of the
>racers
>> had to bail out of his burning Sea Fury. He survived, but sustained
>> severe injuries as a result of impacting the horizontal stabilizer
>as he
>> exited the aircraft. Exiting an RV would appear to present the same
>> hazard. I've thought about how you could prevent this, and frankly
>I
>> just don't know the answer. I remember reading that Spitfire pilots
>and
>> ME-109 pilots in WWII would roll the aircraft inverted, pop their
>> seatbelt and simply fall out. Does anybody with some real knowledge
>> about this have an opinion they could offer?
>>
>> George True, Phoenix, AZ
>> RV-8, hopefully starting very soon...
>>
>
>
>--
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://tabshred.com/moe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
azard. I've thought about how you could prevent this, and frankly I
>just don't know the answer. I remember reading that Spitfire pilots
>and
>ME-109 pilots in WWII would roll the aircraft inverted, pop their
>seatbelt and simply fall out. Does anybody with some real knowledge
>about this have an opinion they could offer?
>
>George True, Phoenix, AZ
>RV-8, hopefully starting very soon...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Self Etching Primers |
Brian Denk wrote:
> I primed the entire fuselage on my -8 with Marhyde..with excellent
> results. I scuffed every part with scotchbrite pad, and then cleaned
> with acetone. I had no problems with orange-peel. Maybe a more thorough
> cleaning/scuffing would help?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> wiring stuff.
I had much the same results. Marhyde seems to adhere well if the part is
cleaned. I got lazy towards the end of my project because I didn't have
any peeling at all. I didn't clean and prep the rear canopy frame/bow on
my tip up and sprayed it in Marhyde. You guessed it, I get flecks of
grey paint settling on myself and passengers hair. Matches my grey hair
perfectly and is virtually invisible. Doesn't look as good on my wife or
the airplane. The only fix is to carefully strip clean and repaint
trying to avoid the plexi:(
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Advice Needed |
I just finished trimming the baffles on my RV6 last night. The process
is very simple:
1) Set the top cowl into place.
2) Crawl around on floor of shop and see where baffles interfere with
cowl.
3) Mark offending areas with Sharpie.
4) Remove cowl.
5) Trim baffles about 1/8" with snips.
6) Repeat steps 1-5 at least thirty times.
The whole process only took about two hours. You can also reach under
the cowl to feel where the baffles and cowl are touching. It is somewhat
tedious, but nothing an RV builder can't handle!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Jim;
> What worked well for me was to mount ONE baffle at a time and then mount
> the upper cowling, mark and cut a little at a time til it fits right.
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> writes:
> >
> >Am starting to rig the baffles on my 6A/0360CS and this
> >trimming-to-cowling business looks really problematic and
> >time-consuming...
> >
> >Anybody out there got a shortcut? Or better yet, some trim line
> >distances for the CS? The trim info on the drawings is marginally
> >useful at best.
> >
> >Don't wanna re-invent the wheel if I don't have to...
> >
> >Jim 6A New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parachutes, opening the canopy in flight |
<< For you RV-8 drivers only; use a pair of the 3/16" cotterless
hitch pins(instead of the called for AN-3 bolts) in the front of the
canopy where the frame attaches to the rollers. These hitch pins have
rings on them; face the rings back towards the pilot. In an emergency,
undo the latch, pull both pins, and give the canopy a good shove upward
into the slipstream. At this point only the small nylon slider block is
holding the canopy in the back, and will break off as the canopy
(hopefully) goes up and back over the tail. >>
A very good suggestion! This will apply to the Rocket, also, as the canopy
works in a very similiar manner. I would also suggest slicing the slide block
from the upper edge thru to the holes drilled for the attach bolt This will
not affect the canopy in its normal operation (the rear pin will hold the
thing closed in flight - no strain on the block in normal operations) but it
will allow the canopy to tear away without taking any other parts with it
(spine track). I suppose it is possible that the thing would stay attached for
a few seconds before it breaks free - I don't think I'd like this...
Be sure to tell the GIB to duck before you pull those pins!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall FWD hose drawing |
RV-listers,
I have placed a 'zipped' copy of Bill Benedict's FWF
Hoses/fittings drawing (in AutoCAD .dwg format) on my web site at:
http//www.flash.net/~gila/
...it is hiding behind the green RV-6A icon. This drawing
(published in a previous RVator) is useful for hose and fitting planning
purposes as well as for documentation. Just modify the generic layout to
fit your specific plane.
Thank you Bill for the drawing.
Gil (a good way to plan hoses) Alexander
RV-6A, #20701 .... tip up canopy latch
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-bookstore - 4 new items |
-----Original Message-----
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 1:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-bookstore - 4 new items
>
>Here are 4 new items at RV-ation bookstore
>and a few sale items of older versions of a few items
>
>NEW ITEMS:
>1] Aircraft Fuel Metering Systems (carburetors)
>2] Best of AMJ Maintenance Tips
>3] 43.13B Acceptable Methods [THE NEW EDITION]
>4] T-34 Association's Formation Flight Manual (by your request)
>
Andy- I would like to order the first three on this list. I tried earlier
to email you, but maybe you did not get the order. Please use my previous
VISA card if you still have the record for it. If not, let me know how to
get it to you via phone or a secure method on the net. Gar Pessel,
Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Prop gov oil line |
Hello all,
I just mounted my 0-360 last night (way too cool) and have a couple questions I
didn't find in the archives. I'll be using a FP prop and know about the removal
(and replacement) of the front plug to pierce the aft plug for oil drainback.
Eventually I'll want to upgrade to a CS prop, so....
1. Why does one have to remove the steel line from the gov pad to the front of
the engine? Does it really flow a lot of oil without the gov, and since there
is a drainback hole, does it matter? Can it stay in place?
2. When I want to upgrade, how do you replace that little plug that I just put
a hole in?
Enquiring minds want to know.
Thanks in Advance,
Laird #22923
SoCal (after the canopy, how bad can those baffles be?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
>
>I found a site that is very useful while dreaming how long it will take you
>to get somewhere in your RV, without getting the charts out..
>
>http://www.indo.com/distance/
>
>It will give you the lattitude/longitude and distance in miles (not statute,
>but as the crow flies) /nautical miles
But it won't accept airport identifiers. GTE DUATS
(telnet:duats.gtefsd.com) has a free flight planning mode that will
calculate fuel burn, affect of winds aloft, etc. You get to specify type
of routing; e.g. airway, VOR direct, great circle GPS/LORAN, great circle
RNAV, etc. Not only that, once it calculates your path it will then
automatically use the info to file a flight plan and give you a weather
brief. Good stuff.
If you want to calculate your own great circle routes the formulae are
pretty straightforward. I have them in BASIC, Excel spreadsheet, and paper
form for entry into programmable calculators. If there is interest I will
post the formulae.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Various Compass notes |
>On my RV-4, I mounted the compass above the panel, on the canopy frame.....
In designing my panel, I wanted everything in the panel. I worry about
having something (an instrument) sticking up in a place where my face could
poke into it in the event of the "unexpected". I have, however, seen a lot
of -4s with the compass in the 'gunsight' position.
My compass is in the panel, right upper corner and is accurate. I have seen
wild variations between compasses and wonder how much they vary from
instrument to instrument. I have one in the Cub that I have never touched to
adjust and is pretty much right on regardless of what direction it is
flying. Unusual. It is above the panel, gunsight position but is a LONG way
from face.
With the other instruments we have access to (GPS) I find I don't refer to
the compass as much anyway. I have always used it as a relative reference. I
establish my course with the GPS, confirm it by the map on my knee and look
to see what the compass is showing and just hold that compass heading,
whatever it might be. I mostly refer to the map and the GPS now. I have
never done a cross-country using ONLY the compass for reference, just
striking out on a heading; it is always in conjunction with a map (the good
old days) or a map and GPS. I don't think we use the compass as a true
direction finder, but it should still be as accurate as we can get it. (When
was the last time I looked at the compass correction card and adjusted a
heading using that information?) However, when ATC asks us to fly a certain
heading, it is nice to head in sort of the right direction. I do use it for
that, but still finetune with the GPS. I don't have a DG (weight, complexity).
How to swing a compass in 'in flight' conditions (this is easy 'out west'):
go up on a no-wind day and fly the section lines, adjusting your compass as
described in the other posts. They are north/south east/west like nothing
else and everything is working like it would be in normal flight (!).
Problem is finding a no-wind day. You can also adjust it according to your
GPS readout, which may be even easier.
These Chinook winds are driving me nuts. I want to get out and FLY!
Just some thoughts...
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year Two, off to a slow start.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat Kirkpatrick <rv6flyer(at)netscape.net> |
| Subject: | Prestolite alternator wiring |
Hi all!
Got a question for you been there done that group. I have a prestolite
alternator or generator or whatever. It was out of a cherokee and I assume it
is 60/65 amps. I need to wire this to the adjustable voltage regulator that
Vans sells but he only shows the drawing for his alternator.
There are 3 terminals on the back of the alternator. The mail battery feed is
obvious (12 oclock position)). I think the small terminal is the field (3
oclock position). Whats the bottom one for located at the 6 o'clock
position??? I think it was labled "aux" but I dont have the alternator here at
work.
This is the last task I need to finish before N97WK will become a living
breathing creature and would hate to smoke its chances at a good life.
Thanks in advance!
Pat Kirkpatrick
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 tail kit needed |
If there is anyone out there that has an RV6 tailkit for sale, please email
me. Prefer one that is not built, however partially built is ok.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tail kit needed |
----------
> From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6 tail kit needed
> Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 2:25 PM
>
>
> If there is anyone out there that has an RV6 tailkit for sale, please email
> me. Prefer one that is not built, however partially built is ok.
>
> Scott
Scott,
I have an RV-6 tail kit ( undrilled ) I put up the jig, built the horizontal
spar
( 2nd time builder ) and quit. I have the elect. trim option to go with it.
$900.00 firm JimNolan(at)kconline.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Etching For Paint |
You shouldnt scuff the aluminum as it is coated to prevent corroson the
etch of the acid in the prep is enough to make the paint stick Boeing
doesnt scuff the parts that are painted. Most of the problem with paint
sticking is with the prep and not touching the surface with your hand as it
has oil that will transfer to the surface and the paint will not stick. I
painted airplanes for a living and never scuffed them to make the paint
stick. If you think about factory AC they are sometimes stripped and buffed
to a high shine you will not do this after scuffing as the alclad of the
surface has been damaged by scuffing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Etching For Paint |
>
I
>painted airplanes for a living and never scuffed them to make the paint
>stick.
Boyd,
For spraying the exterior of my RV, I had planned on roughing the surfaces
as stated in the paint manufacturers instructions. As I recall this was not
merely a recommendation. The wording in the data sheet was something like,
" When applying to aluminum the surface MUST be sanded (I think it said 220
grit), etched, alodined and primed for proper adhesion." This is for PPG
DP48 epoxy primer and Concept finish coat.
So can you explain in detail the steps you recommend for proper prep in a
home shop environment? And what paint systems do you use? The last thing I
want to do is to spend huge $ on paint supplies, ignore the manufacturers
instructions and end up with my paint peeling off the airplane a couple of
years after painting it.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse out of the jig
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Metal dings & repair |
Dropped a bucking bar on your nice aileron or elevator ?
I had a fuel tank all finished except for the rear baffle when I stood it on
end to slather some rivet tails, when it fell over onto a concrete floor
like a tree in the forest. Bang.
I nearly S*** my drawers. Can you imagine building up a new tank and
matching all the holes in the spar etc.. ?
There was a dent in the leading edge right at the cusp.
What I did was, get a piece of 2x4, round the nose of it (flat side top and
bottom) and reach into the tank with it and press and roll the metal back.
You can't have any edges or corners or it will transfer these to the damage
you already have. If space is too restricted, try a piece of hardwood,
rounded, and work the dent the same way. you may try the handle of a hammer
(rounded) or whatever works. If you gently rub the area with a piece of
steel (gently), this will cause the area to shine that you may see it better
when you want to hold a rounded piece of steel, such as the nose bucking bar
that Avery sells, against the dent, and then use a plastic hammer to gently
tap, tap the damage on the outside. It wont be perfect, but it will be much
better than before and you can fill with Bondo or whatever filler you want.
My dent is now so faint, (before any filling), that I have to look for the
ding that was there.
Remember that you can only tap metal against metal so much and you will
begin to stretch it ...could end up with an oil canning spot especially in
the very thin skins.
Try it, it worked for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop gov oil line |
I upgraded to a constant speed prop. Its very hard to get that plug out,
and you can easily damage your engine. I paid an AP to get my plug out, and
he had a very hard time, and could have easily damaged the engine. You need
to take a punch with a hook on the end of it and pull the plug out ( which
is next to impossible ), or deform the plug enough in the middle with a
punch, that it can be pulled out easier. Anyway you look at it, you can get
metal particles in the crank that you won't be able to get to, or you can
damage the spray bar in front of the plug.
Good luck ...
Scott Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 7:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop gov oil line
>
>Hello all,
>I just mounted my 0-360 last night (way too cool) and have a couple
questions I didn't find in the archives. I'll be using a FP prop and know
about the removal (and replacement) of the front plug to pierce the aft plug
for oil drainback. Eventually I'll want to upgrade to a CS prop, so....
>
>1. Why does one have to remove the steel line from the gov pad to the
front of the engine? Does it really flow a lot of oil without the gov, and
since there is a drainback hole, does it matter? Can it stay in place?
>
>2. When I want to upgrade, how do you replace that little plug that I just
put a hole in?
>
>Enquiring minds want to know.
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>Laird #22923
>SoCal (after the canopy, how bad can those baffles be?)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall FWD hose drawing - CORRECTED |
SORRY - missing colon in address - should be
http://www.flash.net/~gila/
RV-listers,
I have placed a 'zipped' copy of Bill Benedict's FWF
Hoses/fittings drawing (in AutoCAD .dwg format) on my web site at:
http//www.flash.net/~gila/
...it is hiding behind the green RV-6A icon. This drawing
(published in a previous RVator) is useful for hose and fitting planning
purposes as well as for documentation. Just modify the generic layout to
fit your specific plane.
Thank you Bill for the drawing.
Gil (a good way to plan hoses) Alexander
RV-6A, #20701 .... tip up canopy latch
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Stabilized compasses |
Several people have expressed an interest in a stabilized compass system @
reasonable cost (whatever that is). I'd like to conduct a survey about
compasses. The technology is available at now lowering prices, and with a
digital display I could produce a system for about $1200. This is down from
previous cost over $2500. My gut feeling that this is still expensive for
most of us. It would replace the Mag. compass and a DG. The capability
would also be there to output pitch and roll as well, but a display might be
another thing. The unit would be self contained and panel mounted in a
2-1/4" hole.
What do you think?
Would you buy it for this price ($1200)?
If not, what is a reasonable price?
Is a digital display (numeric) adequate for your use?
LED or LCD display?
PLEASE REPLY OFF THE LIST! I'll summarize the results if anyone responds.
Thanks,
Dan Morris
Morris Technologies, Inc.
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroquip 701 hose |
Fellow builders,
What is the difference in Aeroquip 701 and Aeroquip 601 hose? Vans
sells the 701 and Wicks has fittings for the 701 but only lists the
601 in the cataloge. Are these hoses the same?
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Emergency Radio Jacks |
My flightcom intercom shows an extra set of jacks that hook up directly to the
radio in the event of intercom failure. I don't remember ever seeing these on
other RV,s. Has anyone had an intercom failure that made it impossible to
xmit/receive on the radio? Does this seem like a reasonable precaution or
overkill?
Dave Beizer
RV6A panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
And all these years, all this time, I've been led to believe that the interstates
are built
straight as much as possible because it's cheaper that way (and quicker to travel).
Little did
I know that, but for an act of Congress, the highways would have been built in
zig zaggs. Good
thing Congress stepped in and forced them to make them straight. If you were to
ask me, I'd say
you're all a bunch of goof balls.
> I've heard the same thing regarding using every fifth mile for runway
> purposes. The system was patterned off the German Autobon (sp?). Here in
> the midwest, you could do better than that. Don't know if that is still
> the practice or not.
>
> Using the crowded hiway for a rundway would not be a good idea on a
> normal day, in my opinion. However, in the event of a national
> emergency, rest assured that the army would close down the interstate
> hiway system, while rounding up all the registered guns.
>
> martin shorman
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
I'm about to mount mount my Wd-609 tail wheel assembly bracket between
F611A and F612 and was wondering about priming and painting the inside
of the bracket where U-602 the tail wheel arm inserts. For that matter
should the end of U-602 be primed and painted also. This looks like a
closely machined surface that just fits into the Wd-609 bracket.
What have others done?....Thanks
Fran Malczynski
Olcott, NY
RV6 (fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Stabilized compasses |
Daniel,
YES.... Especially if it had pitch and roll data available that could be
used in the design of a three axis autopilot!
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel H. Morris III [SMTP:Morristec(at)icdc.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 2:05 AM
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stabilized compasses
>
>
> Several people have expressed an interest in a stabilized compass system @
> reasonable cost (whatever that is). I'd like to conduct a survey about
> compasses. The technology is available at now lowering prices, and with a
> digital display I could produce a system for about $1200. This is down
> from
> previous cost over $2500. My gut feeling that this is still expensive for
> most of us. It would replace the Mag. compass and a DG. The capability
> would also be there to output pitch and roll as well, but a display might
> be
> another thing. The unit would be self contained and panel mounted in a
> 2-1/4" hole.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Would you buy it for this price ($1200)?
>
> If not, what is a reasonable price?
>
> Is a digital display (numeric) adequate for your use?
>
> LED or LCD display?
>
> PLEASE REPLY OFF THE LIST! I'll summarize the results if anyone responds.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Morris
> Morris Technologies, Inc.
> RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: elev horn misalignment |
The only way this can happen is if your hinge brackets and center
bearing
are not perfectly aligned. Even if you had an elevator that was warped
or twisted the point on the elevator horn that corresponds to the hole
in
the center bearing would be stationary when the elevator is swung (as
long as the hinge points are all aligned).
The fact that one of your horn assemblies is higher than the other
should
also have no effect (a single fixed point should still be stationary for
the bolt hole to be drilled into).
It may not be as bad as you think. The elevator does have some weight
to
it which will cause it to sag when only supported by the 2 outer
bearings. This alone can cause it to move around some when the elevator
is rotated on the hinge axis.
If you push up and down lightly on the root end of the elevator you will
see that you can move it up and down quite a bit.
I would first double double check the hinge line with a string to be
sure
nothing is grossly out of alignment. If it is pretty close then go
ahead
and drill the hole for the center bearing (try and support the elevator
very lightly when you do so to be sure it is not hanging slightly).
Then remount the elevator with a bolt at the inner and the outer
bearings. If you are then able to get a bolt in the center bearing with
only slight pressure on the elevator to get the holes aligned, you don't
have a problem (you may need to adjust the center bearing slightly if
the
alignment is off for. and aft.).
If it requires more than just slight pressure, but you can still get the
bolt in, you should still be ok. It is unlikely that you would ever
feel
any extra friction in the elevator control, but what can happen is that
the bearing can have very accelerated wear because of the sid load
induced on it.
For this same reason you should bend/adjust the hinge brackets as
required so that the elevator bearings slip nicely between them, to
prevent any lateral side loads also.
In fact you should choose spacer washers and bushing lengths carefully
on the aileron bearings to prevent loading them laterally for the same
reason.
Hope this helps
(feel free to post this back to the list if you think it would be of
interest)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>Hi Scott. Today I mounted my left elevator to the HS, and I used a
>drill bit
>through the center bearing to make a small mark on the horn, then
>rotated
>the elevator through it's full range of motion. Well, the mark does
>not stay
>centered.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: elev horn misalignment
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:00:43 EST
>Hi Scott. Today I mounted my left elevator to the HS, and I used a
>drill bit
>through the center bearing to make a small mark on the horn, then
>rotated
>the elevator through it's full range of motion. Well, the mark does
>not stay
>centered. It drifts maybe 1/8" or less. Adjusting the rod end bearings
>didn't help, so I'm guessing the misalignment is in the vertical
>plane. Any
>ideas on fixing this? Should I fix it? I don't want to chance the
>elevators
>binding. If you look at both elevators mounted together, the left horn
>is
>obviously higher then the right horn.
>
The only way this can happen is if your hinge brackets and center bearing
are not perfectly aligned. Even if you had an elevator that was warped
or twisted the point on the elevator horn that corresponds to the hole in
the center bearing would be stationary when the elevator is swung (as
long as the hinge points are all aligned).
The fact that one of your horn assemblies is higher than the other should
also have no effect (a single fixed point should still be stationary for
the bolt hole to be drilled into).
It may not be as bad as you think. The elevator does have some weight to
it which will cause it to sag when only supported by the 2 outer
bearings. This alone can cause it to move around some when the elevator
is rotated on the hinge axis.
If you push up and down lightly on the root end of the elevator you will
see that you can move it up and down quite a bit.
I would first double double check the hinge line with a string to be sure
nothing is grossly out of alignment. If it is pretty close then go ahead
and drill the hole for the center bearing (try and support the elevator
very lightly when you do so to be sure it is not hanging slightly).
Then remount the elevator with a bolt at the inner and the outer
bearings. If you are then able to get a bolt in the center bearing with
only slight pressure on the elevator to get the holes aligned, you don't
have a problem (you may need to adjust the center bearing slightly if the
alignment is off for. and aft.).
If it requires more than just slight pressure, but you can still get the
bolt in, you should still be ok. It is unlikely that you would ever feel
any extra friction in the elevator control, but what can happen is that
the bearing can have very accelerated wear because of the sid load
induced on it.
For this same reason you should bend/adjust the hinge brackets as
required so that the elevator bearings slip nicely between them, to
prevent any lateral side loads also.
In fact you should choose spacer washers and bushing lengths carefully
on the aileron bearings to prevent loading them laterally for the same
reason.
Hope this helps
(feel free to post this back to the list if you think it would be of
interest)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
---Adrian Chick wrote:
>
> And all these years, all this time, I've been led to believe that
the interstates are built
> straight as much as possible because it's cheaper that way (and
quicker to travel). Little did
> I know that, but for an act of Congress, the highways would have
been built in zig zaggs. Good
> thing Congress stepped in and forced them to make them straight. If
you were to ask me, I'd say
> you're all a bunch of goof balls.
Smile when you say that, fella! :)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Hangin' wing ribs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Papy Boyeington" <haus328(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
Building highways deliberately so that they can double as airstrips is
common practice around the world. They are usually very easy to see from
the air(in other countries at least). The highway is usually wider and
there might be support facilities around. I doubt that 1 out every 5
miles of american highway serves as an emergency airstrip. I do not find
it hard to belive that the Air Force has identified certain areas of
highway that could be quickly be converted to makeshift airfields in
case their primary bases get destroyed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 701 hose |
I had the same question when I ordered 701 hose and 816 fittings. They are
the correct combination.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 10:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aeroquip 701 hose
>
>Fellow builders,
>
>What is the difference in Aeroquip 701 and Aeroquip 601 hose? Vans
>sells the 701 and Wicks has fittings for the 701 but only lists the
>601 in the cataloge. Are these hoses the same?
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A s/n 22993
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 wing wanted |
>I am looking for an RV4 wing for sale. If anyone has one or knows of one
>available, please let me know. Thanks!!
>
>Scott
Scott,
My friend, Art Chard, has two RV4 wings for sale, right and left. Art
worked at Van's for several years and is a master craftsman. I don't
imagine he'd want to sell just one but your post jogged my memory and I
thought maybe someone on the list might be able to speed up their progress
by buying Art's wings.
Anyone interested can contact Art at: 406-777-0941 (Montana number)
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Swinging a compass |
This may generate some disagreement, but when I wanted to "calibrate" my
whiskey compass (to get data for the "correction card") I used my GPS. I
flew on 360-degrees magnetic and got stable. Noted whiskey compass:
difference is compass error. I did this every 30-degrees around the full
circle. Was lucky in that no error exceeded the allowable whiskey error.
Comments?
RV-6A flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
About painting the tail wheel assembly. I stuffed a rag into the weldment
and masked the contact surface of the shaft. I did paint the end of the
shaft but when the time comes, a healthy coat of a lube may be all that is
needed.
Tom Barnes -6 fuse.
-----Original Message-----
From: Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 6:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wd-609
>
>I'm about to mount mount my Wd-609 tail wheel assembly bracket between
>F611A and F612 and was wondering about priming and painting the inside
>of the bracket where U-602 the tail wheel arm inserts. For that matter
>should the end of U-602 be primed and painted also. This looks like a
>closely machined surface that just fits into the Wd-609 bracket.
>
>What have others done?....Thanks
>
>Fran Malczynski
>Olcott, NY
>RV6 (fuselage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
GTE duats is nice, but you have to either telnet or dial in with a modem. I
have neither option from work, but can access web pages; at one time I know
GTE was working on creating a duats web site, but I'm not sure if it was
ever implemented.
Instead I currently use http://www.airnav.com/
It accepts airport identifiers, gives airport information (gas, obstacles,
FBO numbers, etc.), will find fuel stops (you enter a range), and some other
goodies. Of course I still have to call the briefer to file. PS - I always
double check the information gathered from airnav; it has always been right
on, a really valuable flight planning tool IMHO.
Chris Hill
RV-8 Finishing up left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fireextinguisher |
We never hope to have an AC fire, but being prpared is part of flying
sefely. A friend's airplane does not have a fireextinguisher so I thought I
buy one to be used later in my RV-6A. What type and size is appropriate?
Lothar |||-6A; drilling gear mounts in Lakewood/ Denver, CO |||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Denver Area - Fuselage Jig |
A jig will become available in a couple weeks. This is an straight,
excellent wood jig build by a follow ROCKY MOUNTAIN RVator using laminated
beam material for the main frame member. With the jig comes an attached
power strip (very handy) and an 2 x 2 iron angle needed to alligning the
gear legs.
We would like to keep the jig in the Denver area and the next builder can
make a donation to the ROCKY MOUNTAIN RVator builder/flyer group.
Lothar |||-6A; drilling gear mounts in Lakewood/ Denver, CO |||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Swinging a compass |
>
>This may generate some disagreement, but when I wanted to "calibrate" my
>whiskey compass (to get data for the "correction card") I used my GPS. I
>flew on 360-degrees magnetic and got stable. Noted whiskey compass:
>difference is compass error. I did this every 30-degrees around the full
>circle. Was lucky in that no error exceeded the allowable whiskey error.
>Comments?
>RV-6A flying Salida, CO
>
>
The GPS measures the ground track you are flying. The compass measures
heading. They are only the same if there is no wind, and you have no
sideslip.
There is almost always some wind at altitude even if it is calm on the
ground. A 10 knot crosswind with a TAS of 150 knots will give you about 4
degrees of drift. Winds at altitude are often much more than 10 kts.
Propellor driven aircraft (except those with contra-rotating props) almost
always have a small amount of sideslip due to prop wash, even if the slip
indicator shows no side force.
Now I will attempt to short circuit the protests about whether or not my
claim about sideslip is true. Picture an RV flying with no sideslip. The
prop wash curls around the aircraft and hits the vertical stab on the left
side. This imparts a small amount of sideforce on the aircraft, which we
will detect because the ball is out to the left. So, we put in left rudder
as required to center the ball. Now we are happy, but we actually have a
small amount of right sideslip (I think it would be less than one degree,
except at high power and low speed, so it is not a big deal in the context
of compass swinging).
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Remote Compass |
I have a kit built digital electronic compass with a remotely mounted
sensor installed in my RV-4. I bought it for $229US years ago from a
Company called Rusty Circuits in Angelton Texas, owned, I think, by a
fellow called Russel Cowles.
The design was based on work done by a NASA Researcher called Doug Garner.
Doug published information on this and other instruments in the November and
December 1981 issues of Sport Aviation. He also gave detailed plans at
Oshkosh Forums in 1987 and other years.
I spent some time trying to understand these circuits when someone told me
that vacuum tubes weren't used much anymore. The only tricky bits were the
magnetic windings and a programmed computer chip. The rest were pretty
standard electronic things. Parts lists are in the material. Both the
windings and the 8748 programmed chip could be bought from third parties.
I have most of the literature referred to above plus a spare set of windings
and a chip. I'd be pleased to make them available to some one who would put
them to good use.
Contact me off list if you have any further questions.
Ron Taborek Toronto RV-4 In Basement Heading 347 degM.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Swinging a compass |
John,
You were flying track angles of thirty degree increments instead of heading
angles, as countless others will doubless point out. Unless there was no
wind (or less than about 10 knots at 160 KTAS), the corrections will show a
bias introduced by the wind correction angle. On a day when the winds were
truly "light and variable" at altitude this would be a good check.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: John Fasching <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Swinging a compass
>
>This may generate some disagreement, but when I wanted to "calibrate" my
>whiskey compass (to get data for the "correction card") I used my GPS. I
>flew on 360-degrees magnetic and got stable. Noted whiskey compass:
>difference is compass error. I did this every 30-degrees around the full
>circle. Was lucky in that no error exceeded the allowable whiskey error.
>Comments?
>RV-6A flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Distance Calculator: Really Cool! |
Chris Hill wrote:
>
>
> GTE duats is nice, but you have to either telnet or dial in with a modem. I
> have neither option from work, but can access web pages; at one time I know
> GTE was working on creating a duats web site, but I'm not sure if it was
> ever implemented.
>
> Instead I currently use http://www.airnav.com/
>
Try http://www.duats.com - they were giving out hats at Oshkosh '98
with their web site printed on it.
Marshall Dues,
Katy, TX
RV-6 N243MD 185 hrs
based DWH airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interstates / Runways |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Sutbscriber RV-9 Wannabuilder |
Larry(at)bowen.com:
I am building an 8 and just got started. I live in NW Greensboro off Pleasant
Ridge Road and work in High Point. I would love to get together with you and
any other builders.
Please give me a call as soon as possible. I would love to talk about the 8
empennage kit I have just gotten started on!
Len Leggette
605-4762 Home
434-2124 Work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fireextinguisher |
January 26, 1999 - - - - , 20-
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gh