RV-Archive.digest.vol-gn
March 05, 1999 - March 12, 1999
>>>>BTW- do you mind if I post the answer to this message on the
RV-List?
>>I
>>>>know there are at least a few others that have asked the bailout
>>>>question before.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>
>>>>Russell Duffy
>>>>Navarre, FL
>>>>RV-8, sn-80587 (Wings Finished!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans & Sun-n-Fun |
Dream on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble with Wentworth |
Carey writes a sad but common story:
> My partner and I recently purchase a 0360 from Went Worth. Pior to shipping
> the engine they drop it and crack the #4 cylinder. They offered to replace
> the cylinder for no charge. With them being in the salvage business I opted
> to have my own mechanic do it and they knock off 200 dollars and sent a new
> cylinder. After removing the cylinder we discover severe rusting on the
> cylinder wall so we decided to remove the other 3 and found the same thing.
I've never overhauled an aircraft engine but have overhauled more than 200
engines from sports cars, sedans, trucks, motorcycles, garden tractors, boats
etc. Some were water cooled, some air cooled, some fuel injected, some two
stroke, some 3 cylinder and some double overhead cam. No diesels and as yet, no
rotarys either.
Many had some rust inside. Some had major parts broken. A few hardly had any
unbroken parts left!
With all of these a good overhaul involved throwing away most of the moving
parts and some of the others. It amazes me what is kept on these aircraft
engines but the parts are so very expensive it seems like they *must* be okay.
I wish I could offer some good advice but used engines or cores are serious
risks. I would make every effort to get Wentworth to take this one back, even
if you have to threaten lawyer. The purchase of a used engine should include
guarantees and at least the pulling of a jug.
Some overhaulers of low character could take this engine and clean it up, put in
rings and sell it. Then we will hear of the "engine that was just recently
overhauled and blew up anyway".
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Wings on for fitting
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble with Wentworth |
I had some problems with them too when I purchased my engine. The engine
seems fine, but some items were missing and they overcharged me on shipping
and it took almost six months to finally get it all straight. I dealt with
someone named Don or Dave? I would not deal with him again, I had to talk
to the owner, Steve, to get it straight.
>
>My partner and I recently purchase a 0360 from Went Worth. Pior to shipping
>the engine they drop it and crack the #4 cylinder. They offered to replace
>the cylinder for no charge. With them being in the salvage business I opted
>to have my own mechanic do it and they knock off 200 dollars and sent a new
>cylinder. After removing the cylinder we discover severe rusting on the
>cylinder wall so we decided to remove the other 3 and found the same thing.
>My mechanic said we could possibly hone the cylinders, but they would need
new
>rings. I ordered new rings while he hone the cylinders. After honing the
>cylinders the mechanic said they would not meet specs and there was severe
>pitting on the walls. I called Went Worth and they are not willing to
send me
>new cylinders till they get the crack one back and check for themselves. I
>guess this is good business, but for some reason I'm expecting the worse and
>I'm just ready to finish this plane.
>Carey Mills
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder's Tips |
-----Original Message-----
From: Buster <6430(at)axion.net>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Builder's Tips
> The above and foregoing is to make up for some of the useless crap I have
>posted here before....sorry about that....... do not
>archive...
Your building tips are most appreciated, but you have NEVER posted "crap!"
All of your stories and other posts have been very inspirational and YES H
E L P F U L to many of us. Please continue to post both kinds (technical
and inspirational).
Vince
RV-8A elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble with Wentworth |
Carey,
While it looks like I'll get my engine from Dick Waters, I did talk to
the folks at Wentworth a few times. I talked at some lenght with Steve
(I think he's one of the owners) and he provided me with some good info
on engines (O-320 & 360). We also discussed what he would and would not
warranty. I had the distinct impression that they were honest business
people.
The point is that: I would give them the benefit of doubt (at this time)
but I would also be dealing with the owner (Steve?).
Good Luck and please keep the List informed of your progress.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In-Flight Emergency Egress |
As I said...that was my friend's plan. I really don't know if it
would work at all. If a wing or tail departs the airplane, then there
is nothing you can do short of have an ejection seat. If there is a
fire I imagine the plane would still be controllable albeit very hot.
It's just a scenario, take it or leave it. I don't advocate leaving
the airplane during flight at all.
---Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> Scott Van Artsdalen wrote:
> >
> >
> > I can't remember if I read it or heard it but there is a case of a
> > canopy unexpectedly departing an RV-4. It was blown up and away
from
> > the aircraft if I recall correctly. They pilot was not injured and
> > the aircraft suffered little or no damage. The pilot was able to
> > successfully land his open cockpit RV.
> >
> > As far as exiting the airplane, a friend that is head mechanic for a
> > formula I racer at Reno once told me that you get rid of the canopy,
> > scoot up so that you are squatting on your seat, roll the bird one
way
> > and then kick the stick full forward with your foot. You'll go one
> > way and the plane will go another. Rapidly.
> >
> > I don't know how well or even if that would work. That was his
plan.
> > I don't know what I would do...yet. Personally, I'd like to think I
> > could ride it all the way in. I couldn't live with myself if I
bailed
> > out and the plane then went on to hurt someone on the ground.
> >
> Scott that is a great way to do it if we lived in a perfect world.
> The problem is that we probably are not going to leave out airplanes
> unless there is a catastrophic failure and them I am afraid that the
> airplane is going to be doing whatever it wants to and we will not
> have the luxury of positioning it to the best position to exit.
>
> Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble with Wentworth |
In a message dated 3/5/99 1:43:51 PM Pacific Standard Time, Rvmils(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I
guess this is good business, but for some reason I'm expecting the worse and
I'm just ready to finish this plane. >>
Carey
Just be sure to let us know how things work out for you. Wentworth will be a
name I will "remember". All I have to decide now is why I will remember it.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: In-Flight Emergency Egress |
A friend tested (quite by accident) the canopy jettison feature of his RV-4.
He performed his engine run-up with the canopy latched in the parially-open
position. He had his head down in the cockpit when he noticed a sudden rush
of wind. A glance up revealed the canopy skittering down the ramp behind
the plane. It had bounced out of his half-open latch and pulled out of the
line of pop rivets exactly as advertised. It departed without hitting
either him or any part of the airplane. Of course, his hand was not on the
latch handle at the time. Now, getting out of the airplane at 180 kts would
still be difficult.
Post script: My friend's canopy bounced across the pavement without
breaking. It received only a few scratches and was easily pop-riveted back
in. Mine cracked while drilling in a 90-degree shop in southwest Texas. Go
figure.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST connecting throttle, mixture, and prop cables
>
>After reading the recent thread regarding parachuting, a few concerns come
>to mind:
>
>In a RV-3 or -4 with a flip-type canopy, my immediate concern is not losing
>my hand/arm as I unlatch the canopy and it quickly opens and departs the
>airplane. It doesn't take much to imagine how violent this opening could
be
>if the airspeed is high.
>
>My RV-3 has a lateral cross member that matches and aligns with the
>curvature of the top of the instrument panel when the canopy is closed. I
>wonder if this could become a decapitating device as the canopy possibly
>begins to depart aft while opening.
>
>Finally, instantaneously taking a faceful of hurricane force wind further
>complicates the issue. Sunglasses flying, arms flailing..............not
>good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: In-Flight Emergency Egress |
scott, the incident you speak of happened to dr. kieth kreth here in little
rock. he has been advising me time to time.
the canopy did come off in flight due to a latch failure. i will see him over
the week end if there is something specific you need to know... bob
paulovich in arkansas- doin the tail !!!!
Scott Van Artsdalen wrote:
>
> As I said...that was my friend's plan. I really don't know if it
> would work at all. If a wing or tail departs the airplane, then there
> is nothing you can do short of have an ejection seat. If there is a
> fire I imagine the plane would still be controllable albeit very hot.
>
> It's just a scenario, take it or leave it. I don't advocate leaving
> the airplane during flight at all.
>
> ---Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> >
> > Scott Van Artsdalen wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > I can't remember if I read it or heard it but there is a case of a
> > > canopy unexpectedly departing an RV-4. It was blown up and away
> from
> > > the aircraft if I recall correctly. They pilot was not injured and
> > > the aircraft suffered little or no damage. The pilot was able to
> > > successfully land his open cockpit RV.
> > >
> > > As far as exiting the airplane, a friend that is head mechanic for a
> > > formula I racer at Reno once told me that you get rid of the canopy,
> > > scoot up so that you are squatting on your seat, roll the bird one
> way
> > > and then kick the stick full forward with your foot. You'll go one
> > > way and the plane will go another. Rapidly.
> > >
> > > I don't know how well or even if that would work. That was his
> plan.
> > > I don't know what I would do...yet. Personally, I'd like to think I
> > > could ride it all the way in. I couldn't live with myself if I
> bailed
> > > out and the plane then went on to hurt someone on the ground.
> > >
> > Scott that is a great way to do it if we lived in a perfect world.
> > The problem is that we probably are not going to leave out airplanes
> > unless there is a catastrophic failure and them I am afraid that the
> > airplane is going to be doing whatever it wants to and we will not
> > have the luxury of positioning it to the best position to exit.
> >
> > Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
> > jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> =
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 #1054 - Wings
>
> "The essence of character is doing what's right
> even when nobody's looking."
> J.C. Watts
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: In-Flight Emergency Egress |
sorry, the pilot did get hurt-serious cuts and bleeding both he and his wife (in
back).
Scott Van Artsdalen wrote:
>
> As I said...that was my friend's plan. I really don't know if it
> would work at all. If a wing or tail departs the airplane, then there
> is nothing you can do short of have an ejection seat. If there is a
> fire I imagine the plane would still be controllable albeit very hot.
>
> It's just a scenario, take it or leave it. I don't advocate leaving
> the airplane during flight at all.
>
> ---Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> >
> > Scott Van Artsdalen wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > I can't remember if I read it or heard it but there is a case of a
> > > canopy unexpectedly departing an RV-4. It was blown up and away
> from
> > > the aircraft if I recall correctly. They pilot was not injured and
> > > the aircraft suffered little or no damage. The pilot was able to
> > > successfully land his open cockpit RV.
> > >
> > > As far as exiting the airplane, a friend that is head mechanic for a
> > > formula I racer at Reno once told me that you get rid of the canopy,
> > > scoot up so that you are squatting on your seat, roll the bird one
> way
> > > and then kick the stick full forward with your foot. You'll go one
> > > way and the plane will go another. Rapidly.
> > >
> > > I don't know how well or even if that would work. That was his
> plan.
> > > I don't know what I would do...yet. Personally, I'd like to think I
> > > could ride it all the way in. I couldn't live with myself if I
> bailed
> > > out and the plane then went on to hurt someone on the ground.
> > >
> > Scott that is a great way to do it if we lived in a perfect world.
> > The problem is that we probably are not going to leave out airplanes
> > unless there is a catastrophic failure and them I am afraid that the
> > airplane is going to be doing whatever it wants to and we will not
> > have the luxury of positioning it to the best position to exit.
> >
> > Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
> > jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> =
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 #1054 - Wings
>
> "The essence of character is doing what's right
> even when nobody's looking."
> J.C. Watts
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vans & Sun-n-Fun |
>
>I've got a question about Vans and the big flyins like Sun-n-Fun for
>those
>that have visited their displays at these events. Does Vans typically
>offer
>discounts at the shows like some of the other manufacturers?
>
>Keith O.
>Knee Deep in Rudder
>
>
>
Of course.
If you buy an info pack and video together you get $3 off.
Normally sells for $18, but you can get it for $15.
:-)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV-8 emergency exit? |
>Hello all,
>
>The following is an exchange that I recently had with Van's on the
>subject of bailing out of an RV-8. You'll note that the oldest
>message
>is at the bottom, so start there and work your way up.
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Starting Fuselage)
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>>Rusty, I spoke with Van about this. There are no special provisions
>for
>>egress other than the sliding canopy. We all feel that if you pull
>hard
>>enough, it could be opened....Scott at Vans
>>
>>
Just to prevent any confusion (and maybe to help prevent a lot of you
from confusing the two of us) I wanted to let you know that there is now
two Scott's employed at Van's.
Myself and Scott Rissen.
He is the one you will likely get a response from if you E-mail tech
support at Van's.
Scott McDaniels (the other Scott)
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Saylor <tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Short Field Landing RV-6 |
Hi Scott-
I think the only RVs that will stall in the 44- 45 mph range
have wing tips that don't stall prior to the wing stalling. Such as the tips
that Ollie in Bakersfield sells.
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote: Tracy
>
> >Scott-
> > For this part of the test RPM must be under 1500 RPM & under
> >15 inches
> >MFP.
> > Tracy
> >
> I stand corrected. I didn't remember it that way.
> Even so 1500rpm and 15 inches is still quite a bit of power output above
> idle, and we were talking about power off stall speed.
>
> I know that Dave has an exceptionally performing RV, but in saying that
> I will respond with a question to you...
>
> Out of the 2000+ RV's now flying, how many of them do you think are
> likely to really have a power off stall speed of 44 mph?
>
> (Reguardless of what there airspeed indicator says) :-)
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Sounds like someone's a little light in the bulb!!!!!!!:)
Doug Hormann
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DenClay(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fwd:
>
>
> Copyright infringement notice..
> Dear Sir:
> Please be advised that as a grower and distributer of bulbs and
> perennials,
> many of which are not very heavy, I have grave concerns that
> your posting may
> encourage others to refer to light bulbs in such a manner as to confuse my
> clientes. I have worked for many years to create a bulb light
> enough to allow
> 12 of them to fit in a "next-day-air" standard pouch. As my
> livelyhood and
> the shoes on my unborn children depend upon the continued success
> of my light
> bulb business, I hereby notify and require that your practice must cease
> within the next hour. Otherwise I will have no choice but to
> "hammer out" a
> lawsuit and bombard you with legalese until you ultimately
> "knuckle" under.
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Jettison System |
I am building an RV-8 and a Canopy Jettison system is going to be included.
It is my opinion that this should always be available to you in a bail out
situation were 1/10 of a second can make all the difference between success or
failure. My system is not yet designed but it will for sure include a single
action T-handle type release mechanism to separate the canopy from the
airframe.
Perhaps somebody has already designed this system and if so I sure would like
to get in touch.
Dag Hoegsveen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leif Stener" <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se> |
Hello!
I have one combination manifold pressure/fuel flow gauge for IO360 (labeled Beechcraft)
and I have a IO320, is there someone out there willing to trade ore have
a suggestion to solve my problem?
Leif Stener RV-6, building instrumentpanel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Greetings,
Checked the archives for information on SW Jet Glow paint and only found
4 messages. I was down at the paint shop the other day visiting with
them about SW's Jet Glow paint. I like the "wet look" that it gives,
but it is very slow drying which means a controlled environment is
needed.
Has anyone used it? Pros/cons??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short Field Landing RV-6 |
Tracy, You wrote:
"I think the only RVs that will stall in the 44- 45 mph range
have wing tips that don't stall prior to the wing stalling. Such as the tips
that Ollie in Bakersfield sells."
With respect, I have problems with the idea that changing wing tips can have
a big effect on stall speed, and 5 to 6 mph is a big effect. For one thing
there isn't much lifting going on at the tip, the lifting is done more at
the root of the wing. Also, if Van's tips were causing the tips to stall
before the root, then people doing low power stalls would notice sharply
increased wing dropping tendencies with modest amounts of power, which I
have't heard of.
I wonder if Alan has done any alterations to his flaps, his wing root area
or wing root fairings? This is where I would look for design changes that
might lower stall speed. However, I think the comment that doing the CAFE
stalls with some power on may account for the difference. The added
slipstream could be keeping flow at the wing root attached longer.
There is also the question of measurement accuracy. If the CAFE tests are
really accurate, maybe Van's weren't to the same standard. (This isn't
meant to knock Van's, I would guess a couple of mph lower on stall is not
that critical to him. Note that he quotes a nice round 50). Also accurate
stall speed tests are hard to do. Some manufacturers use special booms and
swivelling pitots, for example.
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
Don if you could get a machining drawing of the case a good machine
shop could probably machine it (would take long bore bar I think) Not
knowing angle and location of push rod bore and tolerance I wouldn't
try it. Another case could possibly be measured to get the Dim's.
Wayne
> >
> >Don I just did this on an E2D: bought used case $300 and gear with
> >cam lobe and push rod (yellow tagged) from wentworth $208. You have
> >to be careful the case matches cam gear, I have one that doesn't
> >match the gear oil slinger. E-mail me if you like, I haven't run
> >it yet.
> >
> >wayne
> >RV-4 Mounting Tail and controls.
> ===============================================
> I have been looking at the E2d. Did you look into machining the original
> acc case or is the used parts the best way?
>
> Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet for
the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long. I
can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
THANKS
STAN Z RV-6A
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
> I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet for
> the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long. I
> can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
> THANKS
> STAN Z RV-6A
> THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
Stan - Sometimes you will need to use a different length rivet than the one
called out in the plans. The best way to be sure that you have the correct rivet
is to insert the rivet into the hole and measure the shank protruding from the
hole. It should protrude 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet. When your done
setting the rivet the 'shop head' should be set concentric with the shaft and
measure 1/2 the diameter of the rivet high and 1 1/2 diameters wide. If this is
a
bit confusing to you, then I would recommend that you purchase the rivet gauges
from Avery. They are not expensive but very valuable for the beginning ( and
experienced) builder.
Have fun building
DGM RV-6 About half done fitting the cowling and scoop.
AIR-ABA Southwestern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to trade? |
Why change?
What is specific to an IO-360 in this gage that isn't the same for IO-320?
I have never seen this gage, but manifold pressure is manifold pressure.
Fuel flow thru the orifice, I presume is calibrated in gallons per hour.
Unless you change the viscosity of the fuel, it remains the same also unless
you make a big change in pressure.
So my original question... Why Change?
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
-----Original Message-----
From: Leif Stener <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se>
Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 1:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Want to trade?
>
>Hello!
>I have one combination manifold pressure/fuel flow gauge for IO360 (labeled
Beechcraft) and I have a IO320, is there someone out there willing to trade
ore have a suggestion to solve my problem?
>
>Leif Stener RV-6, building instrumentpanel.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Crowbar protection |
I understand that the alternator provided by Bart (Aero Sport Power Ltd.)
on his engines has an internal voltage regulator. Is anyone using a Crowbar
OV Protector in their electrical system with one of these alternators???
Did you get it from Aero Electric Connection? How about the 4 terminal
contactor too? I downloaded a couple drawings from their www site, but I
seem to be missing something. Exactly what drawings do I need to do this?
Larry, RV-6A finish stuff (lots of it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Short Field Landing RV-6 |
> Tracy, You wrote:
>
> "I think the only RVs that will stall in the 44- 45 mph range
> have wing tips that don't stall prior to the wing stalling. Such as the tips
> that Ollie in Bakersfield sells."
>
> With respect, I have problems with the idea that changing wing tips can have
> a big effect on stall speed, and 5 to 6 mph is a big effect. For one thing
> there isn't much lifting going on at the tip, the lifting is done more at
> the root of the wing. Also, if Van's tips were causing the tips to stall
> before the root, then people doing low power stalls would notice sharply
> increased wing dropping tendencies with modest amounts of power, which I
> have't heard of.
>
> I wonder if Alan has done any alterations to his flaps, his wing root area
> or wing root fairings? This is where I would look for design changes that
> might lower stall speed. However, I think the comment that doing the CAFE
> stalls with some power on may account for the difference. The added
> slipstream could be keeping flow at the wing root attached longer.
>
> There is also the question of measurement accuracy. If the CAFE tests are
> really accurate, maybe Van's weren't to the same standard. (This isn't
> meant to knock Van's, I would guess a couple of mph lower on stall is not
> that critical to him. Note that he quotes a nice round 50). Also accurate
> stall speed tests are hard to do. Some manufacturers use special booms and
> swivelling pitots, for example.
> Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
The 44.8 mph stall speed was with some power on (14 inch MP,
according to the article - Jan 98 Sport Aviation), but more
importantly it was at a light weight. The article lists the weight
as 975 lb (dry), + 12 gal fuel, plus Dave Anders, who went on a major
diet prior to flying the Triviathon. I don't know what he weighed,
but he looks pretty thin in the photo. If he weighed 160 lb, that
puts the take off weight at 1207 lb. A 44.8 mph stall speed at 1200
lb implies a stall speed of 50.1 mph at 1500 lb. Van lists 54 mph.
That 4 mph difference could easily be explained by the difference
between power on and power off.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cmcgough <cmcgough(at)eck.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
Mate dont stuff around get Avery rivet gauges saves lots of time .
Chris RV6 fuel tanks
THEZING3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet for
> the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long. I
> can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
> THANKS
> STAN Z RV-6A
> THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
>
> I understand that the alternator provided by Bart (Aero Sport Power
Ltd.)
>on his engines has an internal voltage regulator. Is anyone using a
Crowbar
>OV Protector in their electrical system with one of these
alternators???
>Did you get it from Aero Electric Connection? How about the 4 terminal
>contactor too? I downloaded a couple drawings from their www site, but
I
>seem to be missing something. Exactly what drawings do I need to do
this?
>
>Larry, RV-6A finish stuff (lots of it)
Larry,
All the schematics you need are on the Aeroelectric Connection web site.
The main crowbar schematic is all you need to wire and calibrate it, and
there is another one that shows it wired into an internally regulated
alternator system. I don't have the URL for each schematic handy, but I
have them printed out somewhere...so I know they exist. I wired up the
crowbar circuit recently, with about $5 in parts. It worked fine! I
epoxy-potted the finished circuit in the bottom half of a plastic
Sucrets container...which works GREAT. (The throat lozenges sucked,
however. Ptoooeee!!) I did not need a separate relay to switch the
alternator control wire. I asked Bob about it and he confirmed that the
SCR alone will switch the signal to ground long enough until the 5A fuse
does it's job and opens up.
Since I'm buying my engine from Bart, I think I may have him leave the
alternator off, and I'll source one without internal regulation locally.
Or, I'm sure Bob would be willing to offer advice on doing a
"regulatorectomy" on the standard alternator Bart supplies. I know Bob
has "snipped" many an alternator in his day. ;)
Hope this helps somewhat. I know Bob will take care of any further
concerns you may have.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379 (Egads! I need an "N" number!)
Still wiring and plumbing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Egress |
>
>is not the kind of deal you want to work out when the time comes. A friend
>of mine who does a lot of areobatics told me that at the end of every
>flight after engine shutdown, he closes his eyes and does an imaginary
>bailout, touching the canopy release and releasing his harness by feel.
>This kind of drill, after enough repetitions, allows you to accomplish the
>task without conscious effort when the time comes. Good idea.
>
When I was in the Navy, squadron policy required briefing low altitude
ejection
procedures before each flight. In addition, as I taxiied to the catapult, I
would again review with my RIO the engine failure and low alt ejection
procedures. I wanted them REAL fresh on our minds. So, while going over
the egress post flight is good, I prefer to cover it as part of my man-up
and pre-acro checklist. You do have and perform some type of pre-acro
checklist, don't you? (You know, things like "map case-secure"
"harness-secure" "area-clear", etc.)
As far as the "know when to go" decision: It can be cut and dried if
related to various types of mechanical failures. The VERY grey area,
however, deals with a deteriorating situtation brought on by the pilot.
Back in the mid-eighties the Navy conducted a study of carrier landing
mishaps. The Navy wanted to determine why there were more fatal accidents
involving single-pilot jets when compared to multi-place jets (A-7 vs F-14)
when the overall mishap rate was statistically identical. The Navy found
that in the multi-place jets the vast majority of ejections were initiated
by the backseater (or side-seater for you A-6 types :-) ). The reason was
that these guys weren't doing the flying and thus had no "I flew into this
mess, I can fly out of it" commitment to the situation. For the pilot, to
eject would be to admit failure. The RIO/BN's, unencumbered by ego, were
able to recognize much earlier than the pilot that it was "time to go." In
fact, most pilots stated that they were busy flying when the controls were
snatched from their hands as they were ejected (in fleet carrier ops it is
customary to fly with the ejection set so that if either crewman initiates
ejection, both seats go).
The conclusion was that by the time the pilot decided the cause was lost and
it was time to eject, it was too late. And we're talking a mere second or
two, if not less. Hence the higher level of fatal landing mishaps in
single-seaters.
How does my long-winded trip down memory lane apply to this "grey" area?
Well, we sure aren't sitting on a Martin-Baker (a damn fine seat, btw). So,
altitude is your friend. Leave the low level stuff to the airshow folks.
Honestly evaluate your own piloting skills. Leave ego back at the hangar.
And by all means, have a firm cutoff, altitude wise, of when it's time to
step over the side if you do not have control. And DO NOT bust it! All
Navy jet departure/spin procedures ended with "If out of control below
10,000 ft AGL.....Eject." Not to be morbid, but I have lost some service
buddies due to delaying the ejection because they were either still trying
to save the jet, trying to save face, or just plain lost situational
awareness.
I'll never know.
Obviously, 10,000ft is not practical in an RV. We know what the FAR's say.
Is that enough? It's up to each of us to determine our comfort level. Just
know that the siren song calling you to stay with it a bit longer, just
knowing that you'll recover in one, maybe two, more turns, and the thought
of wasting all those hours of hard work spent building this wonderful
machine,....Well, it might be the last song you'll ever hear.
If your gonna dress up like you might have to bail, then take it seriously.
The old fighter adage of "In the heat of battle you'll fight like you
trained, so make sure you train like you'll fight" pertains here.
A Navy instructor of mine put it best: When you jump out of an airplane,
all you are doing is trading one set of problems that you know will have a
bad ending, for another set that you hope will have a better ending.
Also, our bailout procedures emphasized unbuckling the AIRCRAFT harness
only. The reason being that the normal post-flight sequence was to complete
the shut down checklist and then completely unstrap. Being creatures of
habit, in the rush to abandon the plane, you darn sure didn't want to
absentmindedly unstrap completely and bail out!
Finally, consider this. In primary training, all parachutes have static
lines. This is to ensure the ripcord/d-ring gets pulled in case the pilot
is rendered unconscious during bailout. We were trained to dive/somersault
toward the right wing trailing edge, if possible, to take advantage of the
rotating slipstream in clearing the plane. However, there remained the
possiblity of contacting the horizontal stablizer during bailout. Thus the
need for a static line. And we wore helmets.
Sorry for the length.
Sluggo Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
Over the last few years we have replaced 90% of the radios at our gliding
club with MicroAir radios. They all work very well, with no problems so far.
I plan to use one in my 8.
Trevor Mills
80605
Still on left wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Short Field Landing RV-6 |
>
>I wonder if Alan has done any alterations to his flaps, his wing root area
>or wing root fairings? This is where I would look for design changes that
>might lower stall speed. However, I think the comment that doing the CAFE
>stalls with some power on may account for the difference. The added
>slipstream could be keeping flow at the wing root attached longer.
>
I think you are referring to Dave Anders the Triaviathon record holder.
Dave was at my home airport last summer and I spent a lot of time looking at
his 4.
What was absolutely striking to me is how stock his airplane appears with
the exception of the cowl and the turtledeck (added since the record was
set). The cowl is carbon fiber and has an unusual induction system as well
as circular air inlets and outlet. Most of the plane appears to be
absolutely stock. The wing root fairings are the flat metal kind just like
on my 6. The airplane was missing the many small fairings I have seen on
some RV's. On top of that it is well instrumented and has fancy upholstery,
although I'm sure most of that stuff was out for the record.
When I spoke with Dave he felt the new turtle deck had increased his top
speed to about 265 mph. This is with an IO-360 pumped up to about 236 hp.
I am in awe!
I counted about 13 cracks in the trailing edges of the right elevator and
rudder. There were 2 or 3 on the left elevator. Dave said his next project
was to rebuild the tail, again, only this time out of carbon fiber.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Glow paint |
Jerry:
If you are looking for application info on Jet Glo paint you might contact
Mike Aune, paint shop manager at Wipaire Inc in St. Paul, MN. Mike has
talked at our local RV meetings and is an expert in this area. Wipaire is a
major manufacturer of aircraft floats plus a extremely good paint shop (and
also extremely expensive). But Mike is always great about answering
questions. Wipaire's number is 651-451-1205
Doug Weiler,
MN Wing
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 1:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Jet Glow paint
>
>Greetings,
>
>Checked the archives for information on SW Jet Glow paint and only found
>4 messages. I was down at the paint shop the other day visiting with
>them about SW's Jet Glow paint. I like the "wet look" that it gives,
>but it is very slow drying which means a controlled environment is
>needed.
>
>Has anyone used it? Pros/cons??
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Listers
I'm installing the S type cowl on the RV6A c/s. Does anyone have specifics
on installing the hinge pin to mate the upper and lower cowl from the
inside the cockpit> what do you use for guides, how does it lock, is it
practical etc. couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanks ahead
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark <wx3o(at)flash.net> |
My 2 cents as a former military pilot (fast movers and heavies too)
If you break something badly you ask yourself, "Am I still flying?"
If the answer is no, you go. Do it NOW. You HAVE already rehearsed how
to get free of your bird during preflight.
If the answer is "yes I'm still flying" you get wings level and climb.
Smmmooooooothly.
Once you establish this more or less controlled situation and get plenty
of altitude (5000+ feet prop, 10,000+ feet for a jet) you set up a
controllability check like this:
If you can get a chase ship to look you over that is a good thing, but
don't mess around burning gas and wasting time. If you are not
comfortable with another plane nearby then skip the chase plane.
Declare an emergency. It will be nice to have the traffic pattern clear
when you are ready to make your approach and it will be nicer still to
have a someone come pick you up if you wind up out in the boondocks with
nothing but a scout knife and a deployed parachute.
Put the aircraft in the landing configuration. If there is wing damamge
do not use flaps. Slow down to approach speed very slowly and
carefully. A little at a time. Try shallow banks after you lose each
small increment of speed.
If you start to lose control at any time during the slow down, then
speed up to where you regain positive control. Note this airspeed and
use it for the approach.
If you lose control during the slow down and can't regain it quicklly (
i.e., an uncontrolled roll over etc., ) Then its is time to go. Any
altitude you gained will be to your benefit for 'chute opening.
If the plane is controllable down to normal approach speed, don't go any
slower.
Do not reconfigure the plane. Leave flaps (and gear for non-RVs) alone.
Fly a straight in power on approach at a shallow glide angle. Fly a
nearly flareless landing. Roll out using all the runway.
For goodness sake this is not the time to try to land at your usual
pumpkin patch and run out of runway. Go somewhere with 5000 feet of
runway if at all possible. The only exception is if things get really
dicey you might not want to do a long straight in over a heavily
populated area. Judgement! You got it so use it.
If you have to go in a controlled situation, blow the canopy, release
your restraints, trim full nose down. Release the stick and jump free.
It is possible but unlikely that you will hit the vertical stab. If
that worries you then jump slightly to one side.
Pull the D ring and wait for opening shock from your trusty nylon
letdown device.
There are some variations on this theme and I'm sure some of my military
bretheren can fill in details I may have left out. If you are doing
aerobatics over sparsely populated areas it is a slim chance the plane
will hit someone after you bail out. If the plane is uncontrollable you
have no choice where it hits anyway.
Best Regards,
Mark Julicher
Three off airport landings (none in an RV) but no bailouts to date.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
I opted to have Bart omit the Katana Alternator and purchase a 35 amp unit
from Van's. I then purchased a Voltage Regulator with integral Crowbar from
Aerolectric Connection.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 1999 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crowbar protection
>
>
>>
>> I understand that the alternator provided by Bart (Aero Sport Power
>Ltd.)
>>on his engines has an internal voltage regulator. Is anyone using a
>Crowbar
>>OV Protector in their electrical system with one of these
>alternators???
>>Did you get it from Aero Electric Connection? How about the 4 terminal
>>contactor too? I downloaded a couple drawings from their www site, but
>I
>>seem to be missing something. Exactly what drawings do I need to do
>this?
>>
>>Larry, RV-6A finish stuff (lots of it)
>
>
>Larry,
>
>All the schematics you need are on the Aeroelectric Connection web site.
>The main crowbar schematic is all you need to wire and calibrate it, and
>there is another one that shows it wired into an internally regulated
>alternator system. I don't have the URL for each schematic handy, but I
>have them printed out somewhere...so I know they exist. I wired up the
>crowbar circuit recently, with about $5 in parts. It worked fine! I
>epoxy-potted the finished circuit in the bottom half of a plastic
>Sucrets container...which works GREAT. (The throat lozenges sucked,
>however. Ptoooeee!!) I did not need a separate relay to switch the
>alternator control wire. I asked Bob about it and he confirmed that the
>SCR alone will switch the signal to ground long enough until the 5A fuse
>does it's job and opens up.
>
>Since I'm buying my engine from Bart, I think I may have him leave the
>alternator off, and I'll source one without internal regulation locally.
>Or, I'm sure Bob would be willing to offer advice on doing a
>"regulatorectomy" on the standard alternator Bart supplies. I know Bob
>has "snipped" many an alternator in his day. ;)
>
>Hope this helps somewhat. I know Bob will take care of any further
>concerns you may have.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 #379 (Egads! I need an "N" number!)
>Still wiring and plumbing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Greetings,
I've done all plate nuts except the ones that attach the tank to the
nose section. What has worked best at this location? Dimple skin and
the attach strip, then use countersunk platenut(k-1100), or dimple skin,
countersink the attach strip, and use non-countersunk platenut(k-1000)?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Well I am proud to say that my RV-8, N41VA passed inspection yesterday
with no squawks noted, and took to the skies today with Jim Oveross at
the controls. Jim has an RV-8 and has about 80 hours on it. I flew back
seat with camera in hand in Jake Thiessens RV-4. After one hour of
flight time, we noted a very slight left wing heavy, and a small oil leak
out the bottom of the prop governor and a small brake fluid leak. Both of
these were taken care of. Otherwise all went well. Jim says all temps
were within range, and he indicated 165 knots at 23 square and 3,000 ft.
Those of you still building, hang in there, it is true what they say, its
ALL WORTH IT! Now I have the horrible, excruciating task of flying off
24 more test hours! :)
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
Salem, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank platenuts |
Jerry,
There is not enough material to countersink the skin or the attach
strip. Dimple both and use the K-1100 platenuts. Just a little hint
here, don't dimple the tank skin until you are finally ready to install
the tanks for the last time. The tanks are a real bear to get off if the
holes are dimpled. Go ahead and dimple the attach strip and install the
platenuts.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
>
> Greetings,
>
> I've done all plate nuts except the ones that attach the tank to the
> nose section. What has worked best at this location? Dimple skin and
> the attach strip, then use countersunk platenut(k-1100), or dimple skin,
> countersink the attach strip, and use non-countersunk platenut(k-1000)?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
<>
Congrats on FIRST FLIGHT Von. Your plane looked great in the Homewing
Newsletter and I still want to know how you build so fast. Great Job. Keep us
posted.
Gary Palinkas
6QB - Inside fuse
Parma, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
I am happy to report I have finished my VS, HS & rudder- Can anyone
suggest a good way to protect these in storage until I need to install
them? Bubble wrap, cardboard, plastic taped airtight, etc. Thanks for
any suggestions...
Mark in TN
still empping along...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Mark,
I hung mine on the wall in the shop. I have a high ceiling so, I could put
them out of harm's way.
By the way, it was very gratifying to take them off the wall three years
later and put them on the fuselage and to find out that they fit.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A odds and ends while the finishing kit gets built in Oregon
Lots of fresh snow up here
-----Original Message-----
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net [mailto:ripsteel(at)edge.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 1999 2:54 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Parts Storage
Phillips)
I am happy to report I have finished my VS, HS & rudder- Can
anyone
suggest a good way to protect these in storage until I need
to install
them? Bubble wrap, cardboard, plastic taped airtight, etc.
Thanks for
any suggestions...
Mark in TN
still empping along...
Aircraft
Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of List
members.
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Other Email Lists:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Von,
Congratulations!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Well I am proud to say that my RV-8, N41VA passed inspection yesterday
> with no squawks noted, and took to the skies today with Jim Oveross at
> the controls. Jim has an RV-8 and has about 80 hours on it. I flew back
> seat with camera in hand in Jake Thiessens RV-4. After one hour of
> flight time, we noted a very slight left wing heavy, and a small oil leak
> out the bottom of the prop governor and a small brake fluid leak. Both of
> these were taken care of. Otherwise all went well. Jim says all temps
> were within range, and he indicated 165 knots at 23 square and 3,000 ft.
> Those of you still building, hang in there, it is true what they say, its
> ALL WORTH IT! Now I have the horrible, excruciating task of flying off
> 24 more test hours! :)
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
> Salem, Oregon
>
Von,
Congratulations! Sounds like you have done a excellent job of putting
her together! How about a picture posted on the list??
Tailwinds and grins,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leif Stener" <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to trade? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: den 6 mars 1999 22:15
Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>
>Why change?
>
>What is specific to an IO-360 in this gage that isn't the same for IO-320?
>
>I have never seen this gage, but manifold pressure is manifold pressure.
>Fuel flow thru the orifice, I presume is calibrated in gallons per hour.
>Unless you change the viscosity of the fuel, it remains the same also unless
>you make a big change in pressure.
>
>So my original question... Why Change?
>
>Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
I want to change because I think the IO360 have larger nossels ( is that the right
word?) than the IO320. The fuel flow side of the gauge is feeling the pressure
to the nossels, larger nossel means lower pressure. Hope you can understand
what Im trying to explain.
Leif Stener RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts Storage |
Mark Phillips wrote:
> -I am happy to report I have finished my VS, HS & rudder- Can anyone
> suggest a good way to protect these in storage until I need to install
> them? Bubble wrap, cardboard, plastic taped airtight, etc. Thanks for
> any suggestions...
>
> Mark in TN
> still empping along...
>
> Mark - I hung mine in the "hangar " wall in my garage :-) I just drove a
> couple of nails and hung the parts from wire. They have been there for about
> four years - too long I know but they are out of the way while I attempt to
> finish the fuselage. I have heard that Plastic coverings can leave a coating
> on your metal that will screw up the paint job later so I have no covering at
> all. When I get ready to paint I will pressure wash the parts and then wet
> sand the primer and then paint.
Have fun building
DGM RV-6 Working on Cowling
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts Storage |
Doug,
It sounds as if you primed the outside of your parts before putting them
away, is this a common practice? I too have just completed my empenage but
had intended to prime the entire plane just before assembly. Is this a
mistake? Should I prime the exterior now? Obviously the interior (ribs,
spars, interior skins, etc.) were primed during construction.
Vince
Head scratchin in Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Parts Storage
>
>
>Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>> -I am happy to report I have finished my VS, HS & rudder- Can anyone
>> suggest a good way to protect these in storage until I need to install
>> them? Bubble wrap, cardboard, plastic taped airtight, etc. Thanks for
>> any suggestions...
>>
>> Mark in TN
>> still empping along...
>>
>> Mark - I hung mine in the "hangar " wall in my garage :-) I just drove a
>> couple of nails and hung the parts from wire. They have been there for
about
>> four years - too long I know but they are out of the way while I attempt
to
>> finish the fuselage. I have heard that Plastic coverings can leave a
coating
>> on your metal that will screw up the paint job later so I have no
covering at
>> all. When I get ready to paint I will pressure wash the parts and then
wet
>> sand the primer and then paint.
>
>Have fun building
>
>DGM RV-6 Working on Cowling
>Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to trade? |
I think your are right that the 360 has a greater fuel flow. The gage you
are talking about NEVER works very well and has poor accuracy. As Mark
Goldberg RV-8 N982RV wrote to me. He tried to get it to calibrate one, but
gave up and bought a FlowScan from Mark.
The gage you have there should work with ANY engine, but you have to have
the same pressure and volume sent to the gage and fuel injectors. The gage
only measures the latent pressure after some of the fuel is bled through a
calibrated orifice. The more fuel burned, the lower the pressure, but the
higher fuel flow. The manifold pressure side should work regardless of the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Leif Stener <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se>
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: den 6 mars 1999 22:15
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>
>
>>
>>Why change?
>>
>>What is specific to an IO-360 in this gage that isn't the same for IO-320?
>>
>>I have never seen this gage, but manifold pressure is manifold pressure.
>>Fuel flow thru the orifice, I presume is calibrated in gallons per hour.
>>Unless you change the viscosity of the fuel, it remains the same also
unless
>>you make a big change in pressure.
>>
>>So my original question... Why Change?
>>
>>Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
>
>I want to change because I think the IO360 have larger nossels ( is that
the right word?) than the IO320. The fuel flow side of the gauge is feeling
the pressure to the nossels, larger nossel means lower pressure. Hope you
can understand what Im trying to explain.
>Leif Stener RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to trade? |
Sorry, It is Matt of Matronics not Mark.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>I think your are right that the 360 has a greater fuel flow. The gage you
>are talking about NEVER works very well and has poor accuracy. As Mark
>Goldberg RV-8 N982RV wrote to me. He tried to get it to calibrate one,
but
>gave up and bought a FlowScan from Mark.
>
>The gage you have there should work with ANY engine, but you have to have
>the same pressure and volume sent to the gage and fuel injectors. The gage
>only measures the latent pressure after some of the fuel is bled through a
>calibrated orifice. The more fuel burned, the lower the pressure, but the
>higher fuel flow. The manifold pressure side should work regardless of the
>engine.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Leif Stener <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 10:27 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>
>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: den 6 mars 1999 22:15
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Want to trade?
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Why change?
>>>
>>>What is specific to an IO-360 in this gage that isn't the same for
IO-320?
>>>
>>>I have never seen this gage, but manifold pressure is manifold pressure.
>>>Fuel flow thru the orifice, I presume is calibrated in gallons per hour.
>>>Unless you change the viscosity of the fuel, it remains the same also
>unless
>>>you make a big change in pressure.
>>>
>>>So my original question... Why Change?
>>>
>>>Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
>>
>>I want to change because I think the IO360 have larger nossels ( is that
>the right word?) than the IO320. The fuel flow side of the gauge is feeling
>the pressure to the nossels, larger nossel means lower pressure. Hope you
>can understand what Im trying to explain.
>>Leif Stener RV-6
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parts Storage |
<< It sounds as if you primed the outside of your parts before putting them
away, is this a common practice? I too have just completed my empenage but
had intended to prime the entire plane just before assembly. Is this a
mistake? Should I prime the exterior now? Obviously the interior (ribs,
spars, interior skins, etc.) were primed during construction. >>
I've done both (prime exterior during construction and leave exterior bare
'till it is time to paint). I suggest leaving the exterior unprimed until you
are ready to paint. Several reasons:
1) If you prime early on, you'll need to scuff the primer and maybe reshoot a
light prime to get the paint to stick.
2) The primed surfaces will get greasy, dirty, etc. with all the handling
they will endure. More work like in #1, plus the need to remove the dirt and
grease.
3) If you decide to glue (proseal, fiberglass, etc) anything to a primed
part, the primer has to be taken off first....
4) You may pick a primer on the front end that is not compatible with the
*best* finish systems available when you go to paint the aircraft. OR, if you
have the plane professionally painted, the shop may not be comfortable putting
their finish on your primer..
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 610 and 614 fabrication |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
> can somone help me with fabricaton directions for triming and holes on
> hs 610 and 614?
Bob,
As someone else said, try the archives.
Also, go to my page <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> and
follow the link to Tailplane and Fin.
For those new to the list, I maintain "The Bunny's Guide to RV
Building", a set of notes and photos of what I've discovered whilst
building my RV-6.
Also get Frank Justice's notes <http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice>,
and go to Sam Buchanan's page
<http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ready.html>.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
i am in process of finishing jig (horz and wing) in home garage. i have
followed vans instructions with a minor modifications to make jig more
sturdy. i used 2 2x4's bolted together for both vetical and horizional
(111 inch) beams. with a bubble level the structure in near square as i
can get (off just a degree or 2), but the horzonal beam is exactly
level.
QUESTION: is it true that the important part in this is to make sure
that the bolts used to hold spars comming out of the vertical beams on
each side must be exactly level and the horizonal beam exactly level?
is there anything else i need to know?? i do plan to use same jig for
wing (rv-6). thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Glow paint |
>Checked the archives for information on SW Jet Glow paint and only
>found
>4 messages. I was down at the paint shop the other day visiting with
>them about SW's Jet Glow paint. I like the "wet look" that it gives,
>but it is very slow drying which means a controlled environment is
>needed.
>
>Has anyone used it? Pros/cons??
>
It is used by many of the high class (price range) shops.
I have used it after doing airframe repairs to a couple of airplanes that
had been painted with it.
Everything I have ever heard about it in regards to durability, gloss
retention, etc. has been very good.
I have seen a few airplanes that looked great after 10 years or so.
It is a slow drying polyurethane which is similar to Durethane, Super
Flights System III, etc., but even slower.
This provides a super smooth, flowed out finish (still dependant on the
skill of the person applying it though).
The main drawback to this type of paint... You do need a very clean
environment to paint in, and after you spray one color in a painting
session, you need to be able to close the door and leave it undisturbed
for 24 hrs.
If I paint another airplane of my own I will strongly consider using it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 empenage fairing-long |
Fellow RVers,
I received several, off-list requests for the single layer empenage
fairings that I used to make. I no longer make them but, as has been
pointed out by other listers, it is easy to make a single layer "floppy"
from Van's factory fairing. In fact, I threw away the female mold that I
made. Using the factory fairing works better. However, there are a few
problems to contend with.
I used Charlie Tyrrel's factory fairing to make one for his 6A. I body
puttied the factory fairing to some scrap 2x4 so I could clamp the assembly
in a vice. I smoothed the surface by wet sanding and used Johnson paste wax
for a release agent. The single layer fairing came off just fine. However,
the factory fairing isn't quite long enough at the trailing edge of the
vert. stab. and horizontal stab. Also, there could be more material for
overlap at the bottom of the vert. stab. To gain extra size, it's easy to
lay up "extensions" in these areas but there is then a "step" where you go
from 4 layers to three and this will require some sanding. The best
solution would be to extend the mold which would lessen the amount of work
on the finished fairing.
I didn't realize that the empenage fairing was quite so expensive. I
would be nice to be able to return this part for credit. It seems a shame
to ruin such an expensive item to make one fairing. We loaned Charlie's
"mold" to a couple of RV6 builders to the south of us so they could receive
credit for the unused factory fairing. I'm wondering if there would be any
interest in shipping this fairing around the country for a nominal fee
($10.00, or so). Each builder could mold a fairing and then ship and pay
the freight to the next builder. If there is any interest in this, contact
me off-list at bskinr(at)trib.com and I'll try to set something up. Of course,
it's Charlie's fairing, so he'll have to give the OK.
I could go back to making fairings but I already spend two weeks out of
the month out of town helping builders (one RV6A and one Glastar---you RV
builders should thank your lucky stars you're not building one of those!)
and would like to enjoy doing stuff around home as opposed to stinking up
the place. The ice will go out soon & there are trout to catch and fresh
air to breath:)
A few suggestions if you decide to build your own fairing. To protect the
aluminum, I use self adhesive, shelf paper with a kind of vinyl texture.
This is faster than using tape. With the single layer lay-up, I haven't had
to use any clay. If there is a poor fit at the vert. stap L.E. the single
layer fairing can be easily cut with a razor blade and glued together with
body putty.
When I first fit the single layer floppy, I draw the outline of the floppy
onto the shelf paper. I then remove the fairing and apply pieces of
cellophane, double sided tape along the edge. I then stick the fairing down
to this tape and wax the area where the additional layers will overlap.
When the fairing is dry, I use a chip chaser to separate the fairing from
the shelf paper.
Before the epoxy sets up too much, it's a good idea to sprinkle some micro
ballons onto the surface and rub them in. This will reduce the finish work
required.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jig question |
Bob,
The horizontal beam used for the HS and VS should be as level as possible. I end
up always using plum bobs to get my 90 deg angles for ribs and front spar
placement so that being level is important. If the RV-6 wing is basically the
same as the -8 wing when it comes to the jig it does not matter if the arms
extending out are on the same level. Most of that will depend on where you bolt
the angle to the end rib. I ended up making them level and then used shims under
the root end of spar to level in both planes. Don't worry about the placement of
the lower extending arms until you have the skeleton hanging on the upper arms
and then its easier to get perfect placement. One thing to I remember screwing
up on mine was I got the two upright too close together and made it so the wing
skeleton fit perfect between them but the skin overlap hit my horizontal
brackets and I had to move them out. Always much more important to make the jig
sturdy than straight IMHO. I've always had to end up shimming things as I go but
once I get it straight I do not want it to move.
Hope some of that helps
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
rv8er(at)concentric.net
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
> i am in process of finishing jig (horz and wing) in home garage. i have
> followed vans instructions with a minor modifications to make jig more
> sturdy. i used 2 2x4's bolted together for both vetical and horizional
> (111 inch) beams. with a bubble level the structure in near square as i
> can get (off just a degree or 2), but the horzonal beam is exactly
> level.
> QUESTION: is it true that the important part in this is to make sure
> that the bolts used to hold spars comming out of the vertical beams on
> each side must be exactly level and the horizonal beam exactly level?
> is there anything else i need to know?? i do plan to use same jig for
> wing (rv-6). thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
| Subject: | cockpit cowl pin |
Listers
I'm installing the S type cowl on the RV6A c/s. Does anyone have
specifics
on installing the hinge pin to mate the upper and lower cowl from the
inside the cockpit> what do you use for guides, how does it lock, is it
practical etc. couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanks ahead
Rv6A/finish kit
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts Storage |
V. E. Welch wrote:
> -Doug,
>
> It sounds as if you primed the outside of your parts before putting them
> away, is this a common practice? I too have just completed my empenage but
> had intended to prime the entire plane just before assembly. Is this a
> mistake? Should I prime the exterior now? Obviously the interior (ribs,
> spars, interior skins, etc.) were primed during construction.
>
> Vince
Vince - I may have got carried away but I primed all my parts right out of the
box. I used PPG DP-40 epoxy primer and coated both sides. I found it easier to
mark as I measured dimensions and the parts were less susceptible to scratches.
Now that the parts are assembled, I need only to scuff sand with 400 and paint.
DGM -RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | New 6/8 Trim Tab Skin |
After scrapping my first trim tab, I ordered new parts about 2 weeks ago.
When they didn't show up, I called Van's on Thursday. A most delightful
young lady in shipping said the E-619PP skin was on back order, but they
had an E-619PP-1 in stock. The difference is the -1 skin is .020 thick,
whereas the standard skin is .016. I asked if this was now the standard
part for the 8, but she didn't know. So I said ship it. The parts came
the next day (not bad for UPS ground), and the new pre-punched spar - top
and bottom - lines up beautifully with the skin, making life a little
easier. However, I found that the E-617 and 618 horns don't line up. The
forward holes are off by 3/32". After taking some measurements, it looks
like the bottom of the new skin is about 5/32 shorter than the old skin,
and the hole pattern is 3/32 off. I know that on my old skin without the
pre-punched spar that the rivet pattern was slightly crooked at one end, so
maybe they changed the pattern to make everything line up, but they forgot
to change the horns, or maybe they have a -1 horn and didn't tell me. I'll
e-mail Van's (too hard to call them) and see what's going on.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q #591 still trying to get that empennage done after one year
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jig question |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
>
> i am in process of finishing jig (horz and wing) in home garage. i have
> followed vans instructions with a minor modifications to make jig more
> sturdy. i used 2 2x4's bolted together for both vetical and horizional
> (111 inch) beams. with a bubble level the structure in near square as i
> can get (off just a degree or 2), but the horzonal beam is exactly
> level.
> QUESTION: is it true that the important part in this is to make sure
> that the bolts used to hold spars comming out of the vertical beams on
> each side must be exactly level and the horizonal beam exactly level?
> is there anything else i need to know?? i do plan to use same jig for
> wing (rv-6). thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
>
Bob,
Sounds like you've built a good jig. You will be mounting several small
brackets to the horizontal jig member. These brackets are used to hold
the HS rear spar and VS spar during construction. If the horizontal
member of the jig is a little off, just shim the little brackets to
correct. A string ran through the little brackets will help you align
them. On the wing, you will attach a couple of arms perpendicular to
the two vertical members of the jig. These arms will hold each end of
the wing spar. Use a water level, transit, or whatever you can come up
with to get them level to each other. If they are a little off, you can
use shims to shim the spar to level.
Wooden jigs are rarely right on, so shimming is a common correction for
proper alignment.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jet Glow paint |
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
> It is used by many of the high class (price range) shops.
>
> I have used it after doing airframe repairs to a couple of airplanes that
> had been painted with it.
>
> Everything I have ever heard about it in regards to durability, gloss
> retention, etc. has been very good.
>
> I have seen a few airplanes that looked great after 10 years or so.
>
> It is a slow drying polyurethane which is similar to Durethane, Super
> Flights System III, etc., but even slower.
>
> This provides a super smooth, flowed out finish (still dependant on the
> skill of the person applying it though).
>
> The main drawback to this type of paint... You do need a very clean
> environment to paint in, and after you spray one color in a painting
> session, you need to be able to close the door and leave it undisturbed
> for 24 hrs.
>
> If I paint another airplane of my own I will strongly consider using it.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
Big thanks to Scott and others who have contacted me on and off the list
about Jet Glo. If I go with Jet Glo, I will construct a sealed,well
lighted, and air-filtered paint booth to do the job. Hopefully, this
environment will produce a nice paint job.
Thanks again,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cockpit cowl pin |
Joe,
Position the NASA vents in the forward side skins of the fuselage so that
they are centered on the hinge lines of the hinges that attach the top and
bottom cowl parts.
For each side: Drill a hole through the firewall outside edge aluminum
angle for the pin of the hinge that connects the top and bottom cowl parts
to pass through the firewall. Position this hole where the pin exits the
aft end of the hinge assembly on the side of the cowl. Drill a hole in the
NASA vent for the pin to exit to the outside. Mount the hoops of a scrap
or surplus hinge half inside the fuselage to guide the pin between the hole
in the NASA vent and the hole in the outside edge of the firewall.
Bend a handle in the aft end of the hinge pin. A 90 degree bend with small
stub works fine. The pin can be stowed in a pop rivet with the mandrel
drilled out or it can be push back in to the duct of the NASA vent.
Important, when you install the hinges that join the cowl top amd bottom
parts, make the hinge hoop closest to the firewall (the most aft hinge
hoop) the hoop on the bottom hinge not the aft hoop on the top hinge. This
allows you to install the bottom cowl using the hinges or fasteners that
attach it to the firewall and then you can guide (pre-load) the pin into
the bottom aft hinge loop stopping short of the forward edge of this aft
hoop. Because the aft hoop is the bottom hoop, you can now install the top
cowl (mesh the hinge hoops) without interference from the pin because it is
tucked away inside the bottom hinge's aft hoop. With the top cowl in
position, hinges meshing, you can now push the pin through all the hinge
hoops. Pre-loading the hinge pin into the aft hoop of the bottom hinge
insures that the pin is aligned so that it can pass easily through the
hidden hinge assembly.
>
>Does anyone have
>specifics
>on installing the hinge pin to mate the upper and lower cowl from the
>inside the cockpit> what do you use for guides, how does it lock, is it
>practical etc. couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanks ahead
>
>
>Rv6A/finish kit
>planejoe(at)flnet.com
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring and plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: canopy departing plane |
Can somebody tell me about canopys departing planes frequently. This is the
first ive heard of this. mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
>
>I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet for
>the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long. I
>can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
>THANKS
>STAN Z RV-6A
>THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
>
Stan:
I bought a rivet cutter from Cleaveland tool and I'm glad I did.
The longer the rivet is, the greater the chance it will cleat (bend over)
or otherwise end up assymetrical. My rivetting skills need every advantage
I can get. I always cut the rivets to just the right length (or close to it
without going under) and it helps.
You need a caliper (with depth guage) for measuring the length of
the rivet extending out past the hole on the shop head side. You want it to
be 1.5 rivet diameter or more. The rivet cutter allows you to cut the
rivets by 1/16" increments and slipping a piece or .032" aluminum in there
gives you 1/32" adjustment. I think the rivet cutter is well worth it
worth the $50 I spent.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrian Chick <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
I don't remember what the 412PP is. A hinge bracket? Use the 1.5diameter
method or the rivet length guage and if it's too long, cut it down to the correct
length. There were some rivets that were a hair too long that set just fine.
But, if it's too long, it will bend over.
THEZING3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet for
> the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long. I
> can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
> THANKS
> STAN Z RV-6A
> THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
In a message dated 03/08/1999 1:55:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes:
<< You want it to
be 1.5 rivet diameter or more. The rivet cutter allows you to cut the
rivets by 1/16" increments >>
Another way to gauge the 1.5 rivet diameter length is to lay a rivet next to
the protruding rivet and gauge the rivet (1.5 x D) by the mark one eyeball.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Sanchez" <rsanchez(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale RV6 wing and tail kit |
For sale, RV6a wing and tail kit still in box, wing has Phlogist spar,
plans, plus 90% completed tail, metal wing jig. Make offer.
Located in Hagerstown, MD. Send inquires to: rsanchez(at)cvn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rv4george(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 For Sale |
Hi Joe:
I would like to Know the particulars of your project. I do have an
engine though.
James F. George
1853 E. Chestnut Ave.
Vineland, N.J. 08361-8402 609-691-6071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu> |
| Subject: | Salvaged airplane parts in Minnesota. Without mentioning any |
names.
I recently returned from a trip in Mexico, it was a lot of fun. While there
I met a retired very successful business man. He told me that the secret of
being successful is to master the art of saying the exact opposite of what
your thinking, or of what you know. So if you think that someone is a
jackass, you tell them that they are one of the nicest person's you've ever
met. I'm having difficulty with this because if I think someone is a
jackass I usually tell them there a jackass. While in Mexico I visited one
of the nicest restaurants I have ever been in. It had a dirt floor, the
silverware was really clean, the Mexicans there were very nice, and they
only spit once or twice on the floor, so it had to be very sanitary. I
have also been to the Airplane salvage yard in Minnesota, let me tell you.
I was very impressed with there professionalism, honesty, cleanliness,
prices, and all around very good selection of parts, you should all visit
this business before you purchase from them!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8;Observations |
I now have 3 hours on my RV-8, N41VA, and I thank all of you for your
many congratulations. Please understand that much of the success of this
project can be attributed to the help of all of you on the list, and I
plan to stay on the list and help where I can. Many have asked that I
post my observations on the RV-8, what I would do again, or would not do
again, etc. and I plan to do just that. Also, if I can quit flying long
enough :), I will work on a web page with photos.
As most of you know, I had an RV-4 with a Lyc 0320-E2D and high
compression pistons, making it about 160hp output, and had a wood prop.
WOW! I never dreamed there would be such a difference in acceleration and
climb with the 185+ and CS prop! With this much power, you need to feed
the throttle in slowly, so that the torque is manageable. So those of you
wondering about 160 hp vs 180 hp and fixed prop vs CS; if you can
afford the latter, it IS worth every dime!
Will post my thoughts in several shorter posts, otherwise they will get
too long. Will use the title; RV-8;Observations. Stay tuned!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Magazine Article by Gil Alexander |
I trust that most of you have by now seen Gil Alaxander's article,
"Craftsmanship and Attention to Details," in the February 1999 issue of
Sport Aviation. Way to go, Gil!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownTool(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | DENVER AIR FAIR '99 - Adv. |
To all Denver area RV Builders and aviation enthusiasts:
Just a quick reminder that the "Rocky Mountain Air Fair '99" will be held
this coming Saturday and Sunday March 13th & 14th from 9am to 5pm at the Wings
Over The Rockies Air and Space Museum at the old Lowry Air Force Base in
Denver. Admission and parking are FREE ! For more information
specifically about the Air Fair, you can visit their website at:
www.rmairfair.org
We will have a booth at the Air Fair featuring many of our tools for sale. We
will be featuring several items at special "Air Show Prices". Our booth will
be located directly across from the EAA booth. We look forward to meeting
all of our Denver area customers.
Also, please remember we are featuring our SIOUX Mini Palm Drills both the
2600 RPM model 1410 and the 3600 RPM model 1412 for only $195.00. We have
plenty of these drills in stock and ready to ship out the door. Please
mention this post to receive the special price.
Once again, we thank all of our RV customers for their continued support and
look forward to meeting many of you in Denver.
With Best Regards,
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
Bethany, Oklahoma
1-800-587-3883
BrownTool(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | For sale - Tail light |
RV-builders,
... while cleaning my garage, I found some stuff I will not need,
so FOR SALE:
Grimes Type III Rear Position Light TSO - C30b
Also marked C 622001-0102 (Cessna part number?)
This is a standard tail light (no strobe) that will fit Vans
rudder fairing. It also come pre-painted (as long as your rudder will be
Royal Blue...:
) It's in good condition and takes a single pin base
automative light bulb of 26 or 32 CP (bulb not included).
First e-mail requesting it gets it for $25 and I'll pay
shipping in the 48 states.
...Gil (the author...:
) Alexander
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)megsinet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jig question |
Although this has been discussed and is in the archives, I'll only mention it so
that you can dig for more info. The answer to your question follows:
No.
Ok, I'll elaborate. The only purpose of a jig is to hold the parts in
alignment. The jig can be as crooked as a three-dollar Bill Clinton (sorry,
couldn't resist) and still hold the parts in perfect alignment. It is, in fact,
easier to ensure alignment with a well-aligned jig, but don't get hung up on
it. It is more important that the jig be as impervious as possible to
movement. IMHO, the best jig may not be exactly square, but will have plenty of
provision for adjustment and measurement; i.e. attachment of shims, plumb lines,
etc. By the way, an easy trap to fall into is to trust the jig for measuring
alignments. It is best to measure your parts relative to each other, in case
you accidently misaligned a part while attaching it to the jig. If you measure
to the jig, subsequent parts will be misaligned to the one part you messed up on
and you won't catch it because you did not make the critical measurement - part
to part. Also, go back and remeasure alignment as you go; jigs have a tendancy
to shift with temperature and humidity changes. The longer your project sits in
the jig, the more important this is. What was aligned last week may be
significantly off now.
Go back and read the second sentence in the previous paragraph. That is the
answer to your question.
PatK - RV-6A - Kit in storage, back at it in a few months - I hope.
Bob Paulovich wrote:
> QUESTION: is it true that the important part in this is to make sure
> that the bolts used to hold spars comming out of the vertical beams on
> each side must be exactly level and the horizonal beam exactly level?
> is there anything else i need to know?? i do plan to use same jig for
> wing (rv-6). thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | gretz pitot mount location |
dear listers,
i have warren gretz's pitot mounting kit, and i would like to install it
next to the outboard rib, in the next bay outboard of the tie-down point to
provide adequate clearance from the tie-down. this will make
servicing/inspecting slightly more difficult. i am planning to use plastic
pitot and static lines, so i can put a service loop in these and the
electrical wires, so if needed i can pull the tube out of the mount to get
it.
however, if i later find that i need to adjust the alignment of the tube,
this is done by inserting washers under the bracket, inside the wing skin.
this will be very difficult i am afraid, but not impossible as i can still
reach in there from the bellcrank access hole.
so i have two questions (at least)...first, how common is it to need to fix
the alignment using the gretz mount, or how can i make sure the alignment is
correct before skinning the wing?
second, what is the "accepted methods and practice" for service loops?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggunn(at)mail.semy.com (Gary Gunn) |
| Subject: | New builder in AZ |
Well I finally did it. Sent the check to Van's today for the tail
kit and can't wait to get started building. Looking
forward to participate in the list and I'm sure I'll have
a ton of questions. Anybody from the Phoenix area I would
enjoy seeing your kits to get some ideas as I'm new to this.
Gary Gunn
North Phoenix, AZ
rv-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Fink" <Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder in AZ |
Gary,
Congratulations on getting started! Hopefully you will find like I
did that I enjoy working on it more than I thought I would (and I
thought I would really, really like it!).
I am in the eastern part of the valley (far eastern) actually east of
Apache Junction near the base of the Superstitions (I moved the
project from a 2 car garage in Glendale to a really nice workshop at
my new house out there). Feel free to give me a call if you would
like at 288-9093, just remind me you are the rv-list guy. I am
currently building my left wing and you could come out and look at my
empannage if you would like.
There are at least two RV6 projects that I know of going on at DVT,
and Dave Barnhardt has completed his project in the last 6 months or
so and has helped a number of people (myself included). He lives in
the area of 43rd and Peoria.
Best Regards,
Scott Fink
RV-6 left wing (still)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: New builder in AZ
Date: 3/8/99 1:05 PM
Well I finally did it. Sent the check to Van's today for the tail
kit and can't wait to get started building. Looking
forward to participate in the list and I'm sure I'll have
a ton of questions. Anybody from the Phoenix area I would
enjoy seeing your kits to get some ideas as I'm new to this.
Gary Gunn
North Phoenix, AZ
rv-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Dimple skin and the attach strip, then use countersunk platenut(k-1100)
>Edmond Ok -6 wings
I used the 1100's with c/s on both.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
>I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right
>rivet for
>the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP.
>STAN Z RV-6A
>THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
The right rivet is 1.5D prior to setting. buy or build a gauge.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | position sensor for flaps |
Has anyone installed a position sensor for the electric flaps. Where did
you install it and did you use the MAC Position Sensor?
If not what other dial etc have been used and where can I find them..
Spruce has one..any others??
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB Canopy frame in, fearing canopy install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Listers, Here is a letter I sent to Roadway Express following troubles
with two shipments. I'll keep you informed if I hear from them.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
fuselage inventory
In May 1998 I had two crates totaling 395 pounds shipped from Vans Aircraft
in North Plains, OR to my home in New York. It became obvious to me right
away that the shipment would encounter problems as I discovered the "pro
number" of my shipment was reversed with another of Vans customers when I
tried to track the shipment. When the shipment arrived a day late at the
Montgomery, NY terminal one of the two crates was missing. I suggested
calling the Danbury, CT terminal (40 miles away) to see if they had
received it since that is where the shipment mine was mixed up with was
headed. The driver and the Montgomery office couldn't figure out how I
could locate the missing crate when they had no idea where it could be.
Sure enough, Danbury had my crate but said they could not deliver it to me.
They informed me that they would have to send it back to Pennsylvania and
let it re-enter the system. I could expect delivery in three days. I
pointed out that the truck to Pennsylvania would pass within five miles of
my house but was still told they could not stop and deliver it. I decided
to drive to Danbury myself and pick up the shipment.
On 16 Feb 1999, Roadway again picked up two crates from Vans Aircraft
totaling 360 pounds. Once again, on Friday 26 Feb, the shipment arrived
one day later than planned and again, one of the two crates was missing!
Unfortunately, this time I didn't know where it was and Barbara from Vans
Aircraft told me there weren't any other shipments near me. The office
personal at Montgomery simply told me that they had no way to actively
search for it, we had to simply wait until it showed up somewhere and was
put back into the system. I find this especially disturbing when I compare
it to the small package industry. A small package or envelope is much
easier to misplace or overlook yet UPS and FedEx both consistently deliver
on time (probably in much greater quantities) and have tracking systems
that know where a package is at all times. I have never had a problem with
either of these companies nor have I heard of any complaints about them!
On Monday I learned that the missing crate was in Colorado Springs, CO.
And I could expect delivery on Thursday or Friday. Since the crate only
made it half way across the country it must have been there for a few days.
I wonder how a 8'x4'x18", 300 pound crate could sit on a loading dock for
several days without being noticed and "put back in the system". Needless
to say, the shipment did not arrive on "Thursday or Friday" but the
following Monday.
For all this trouble, I had the privilege or paying a 17% increase in the
shipping rate! This at a time on 2% inflation and the lowest fuel prices
in over a quarter of a century! Vans Aircraft has a very loyal customer
base and these loyalties extend to Vans suppliers and supporters. Those of
us building aircraft from Vans kits also have a very strong support group
and communicate good and bad experiences for others benefit. Last year,
about the time of my problems, several in the group related problems with
Roadway deliveries. I decided to give you another chance but again, have
recently heard of others problems. I realize that the shipping business
is a very competitive one and that I do have a choice in shippers.
Without a satisfactory answer to these problems, I will not have my future
shipments sent via Roadway Express and will encourage others to seek
alternative shippers.
Sincerely,
Scott A. Jordan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: For sale - Tail light |
Ill take it for 25.00, just send me an address to send a check.
LKDaudt(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
I have an annoying oil leak on an 0320. Doesn't leak enough to cause a
noticeable increase in oil consumption, it is dirty when it streaks out
of the oil filler door.
It is outsise the baffled ares and in the vicinity of the oil filler but
I have removed and sealed the filler tube at least twice.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to locate an oil leak?
Thanks in advance.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
Check with the bigger companies..UPS FEDX Airborne DHL
I know UPS has air freight and they are pretty dependable..
But I should watch out.. once I give them a rec.. thats when they mess up..
Mark (Jeffersonville)
6a tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
GOOD TO SEE YOU GOT IT
TOM W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
I too have had bad luck with Roadway...I now insist everything go UPS or
FedExp...Jim Brown,Matawan,NJ---RV3 and 4...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to locate an oil leak?
John, I had the job once to find an oil leak on a Cont. TSIO-360.
Washed the engine real clean with kerosene and compressed air. Let it
dry and then test run it on the ground. It took several attempts at
finding the leak. Initially, I couldn't find in. The plane would go
fly and come back with a dirty engine. Then it occurred to me I didn't
let the engine get hot enough for my check. Did it again and let the
engine get very hot. Found a cracked head near a valve. It was a
hairline crack that could not be seen until a little oil came out. Also
couldn't see the crack after flying because the oil (too much) covered
it up.
Hope your problem has a better ending than mine did. Good luck.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Hopefully done this summer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
I am not near my project at the moment so I can't check out what I used. I
had heard that some of the plans might not show the proper rivet. Somone
in the rv-list recently shared this URL with me. It really helped me.
http://www.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
George Armstrong.
----------
From: THEZING3(at)aol.com[SMTP:THEZING3(at)aol.com]
Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 1999 12:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: H/S RIVETING
I am ready to start riveting my H/S. I'm trying to find the right rivet
for
the HS 413PP. The plans say a -5 for the 412PP. This looks a little long.
I
can't find the proper rivet size stated in the plans. Can anyone help?????
THANKS
STAN Z RV-6A
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | HS 614/HS 610 holes |
I followed the plans and everything came out correct. Two rivets aren't
put in until the skeleton is being assembled. If I remember correctly, two
holes will get bolts through them. I think if you look at the instructions
it says not to drill these until assembly. Don't make the same mistake I
did on the forward spar. When you cut the flange off, drill the hole you
will cut to (where the spar bends) then leave a little bit of an ear back
towards the center of the spar where the skin rivets on. Watch out for the
two center ribs where you cut them to clear the 610/614. There is a rivet
tight against the 610. Also, only cut the part of the spar that would work
against you in the bend.
George Armstrong,
RV6A HS
----------
From: Bob Paulovich[SMTP:jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net]
Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS 614/HS 610 holes
i read in justice supplemnts that there will be 8 holes in each the 610
and 614. just watched orndorff videos and i saw 14. in my plans i see
18. my planns= holes from center at: 1/2, 1 1/2, 2 5/8, 3 5/8, 4 5/8, 5
5/8, 6 3/8, 7 1/8, and 7 7/8. So how may and distances?. i appreciate
the help, THANKS, bob paulovich in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
>Hello Listers;
>I have an annoying oil leak on an 0320. Doesn't leak enough to cause a
>noticeable increase in oil consumption, it is dirty when it streaks out
>of the oil filler door.
Try this. Clean the area very thoroughly with a solvent and air blow dry.
Let sit to be sure it's really dry. Spray the area down with dye check
developer (the white powder). After examining for residual oil and there is
no sign of oil, run the engine. The oil will show up quickly in the
developer. If the source of the oil is a crack, it will also reveal the
crack.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
My wings came via Roadway all the way to NC this past December. I worried
about the shipment because that was about the time the hot topic on the list
was lousy service from shippers. I guess I was lucky - mine came on time
and the driver helped me unload it. Hope your luck improves...
-Larry
email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott A. Jordan
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 7:13 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Roadway 0 for 2
>
>
> Listers, Here is a letter I sent to Roadway Express following troubles
> with two shipments. I'll keep you informed if I hear from them.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> fuselage inventory
>
>
[SNIP]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
This may not sound too scientific, but, this is how I found a couple small leaks
on my 0-320. I cut a few strips of clean rag and put over the suspected leaky
area, covered that with plastic, then taped over that with duct tape. The
plastic just prevented any contamination from outside the suspected leak area.
It sounds dumb, but, it was very affective at pinpointing the leak.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary white <gwhite(at)vaxxine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale RV6 wing and tail kit |
Hi:
How much are you asking for the Rv6 kits ?
Gary
gwhite(at)vaxxine.com
Rich Sanchez wrote:
>
> For sale, RV6a wing and tail kit still in box, wing has Phlogist spar,
> plans, plus 90% completed tail, metal wing jig. Make offer.
> Located in Hagerstown, MD. Send inquires to: rsanchez(at)cvn.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Griesdale" <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net> |
Dear John
I found a mystery oil leak by wrapping narrow clean cotton strips around all
possible leak sources. I then flew for half an hour and the problem was quickly
identified.
Rob Griesdale, RV6-A - C-GWPC, Cayley, Alberta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8;Observations |
One thing I notice on my RV-8 is that with just me in there(170lbs), and
over 1/2 fuel, I need to use full rear elevator trim on approach (70
knots), and I run out of rear stick travel just before touchdown. Jerry
VanGrunsven was saying that with the 180 and CS prop, when flying by
yourself you will likely need to put a little weight in the rear baggage
compartment. I will do this and post to the list on how much weight
seems to do the trick.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8;Observations |
I would just like to say that the manual vernier type elevator trim on
the RV-8 is absolutely outstanding. It is such an improvement over the
arm type trim in the RV-4 I had. It is adjustable in such precise
increments, that it does the job effortlessly. And best of all, it is
virtually failproof! Highly recommended. Same goes for the new side panel
mounted manual aileron trim.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator counterweights |
This is one of those "how close is close", or "does anal retentive have a
hyphen?" questions...
As I'm working on setting up the elevators, tail tips, etc., I've got the
elevator counterweights at nearly the correct weight for balance purposes.
I've seen the archive notes on dealing with the variation in weight side to
side from the electric trim system (quite noticeable!). I plan to fine-tune
them to provide as perfect a balance as is feasible for long term flying
purposes.
Now for the question for the evening -
I would like to do the initial test flying and probably most of the
restricted fly-off period before I have the airplane painted. A couple
fellow EAA'ers have painted before flying on their projects (not necessarily
RV's), and said if they did it again they'd wait until after those initial
flights to paint, so that they didn't have the "hangar rash" exposure during
the inevitable fine tuning and adjusting that the test flights trigger. I
expect the paint to change the balance on the elevators by a half ounce or
so (based on past model building experience), and am trying to figure out if
that's worth worrying about in the grand scheme of things, and what the
effects of imbalance are on the elevators (and how critical that is) anyway.
Seems like you'd have more nose-down tendency to have to trim out with the
aerodynamic tab if the elevators are heavy to the back (and some drag from
that, whether measurable or not), but no particular control dynamic
problems. Conversely, I can hypothesize that if the elevators are heavy to
the front, a "positive feedback" oscillation might happen in an extreme
case. But - how sensitive is this whole subject? Should I just go ahead
and balance now, then only deal with re-working the weights if I notice a
difference after paint? Or just get it pretty close & fly it? Or make
plans to add a little lead to match the paint???
Looking for things to worry about while we wait for the engine & finish kit
to show up...
Bill & Kathy Peck, -6A(Q), Pueblo CO, working on the dash, wiring, & other
"details"...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brent's mail" <vredding(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rv digital photos |
Sorry Jim, I don't have any digital photos of my rv. E mail me your mailing
address, and I will send you photos and info.
vredding(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Internet Taxation |
The following message does not directly pertain to the building of an
RV, but does endanger the existance of the RV-List as we know it.
Please exercise your right to voice your opinion to your congressman.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
If you use the internet then you owe it to yourself to e-mail your
congressmen
>and vote!
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>Guess we realized the government would sooner or later find a way to
>tax us for using the Internet. Congress will be voting in less than
>two weeks. CNN stated that the Government would, in two weeks time,
>decide to allow or not allow a Charge to your phone bill equal to a
>Long Distance call EACH time you access the Internet.
>
>The address is:
>
>http://www.house.gov/writerep/
>
>If you choose, visit the address above and fill out the necessary form.
>If EACH one of us, forward this message on to others in a hurry,
>we may be able to prevent this injustice from happening!
>
>Please Pass This ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H/S RIVETING |
George ... thanks for the endorsement...:
)
but PLEASE bookmark
http://www.flash.net/~gila
...any other locations in my web site are likely to change, and
the rivet spec will always remain one click away from this location.
Thanks ... Gil (the rivet webmaster) Alexander
PS I found a nice monograph to calculate rivet length vs. material
thickness. I'll publish on the web site in the next few days. It's good
for beginners.
>
>I am not near my project at the moment so I can't check out what I used. I
>had heard that some of the plans might not show the proper rivet. Somone
>in the rv-list recently shared this URL with me. It really helped me.
>
>http://www.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
>
>George Armstrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
Scott; consider yourself lucky that you received your crates with no
damage, even if they were a little late. I am still in a legal battle
trying to recover shipping damages that happened Nov. of 1997. Since then
I have requested that all my large items be shipped via Roadway and I
have not been disappointed. Receiving location seems to play a role in
which shipping company is best for you. I live in southern Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: position sensor for flaps |
In a message dated 3/8/99 3:43:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com writes:
<< Has anyone installed a position sensor for the electric flaps. Where did
you install it and did you use the MAC Position Sensor? >>
Dan-
I have the MAC position sensor in my 6A. It works great. The details are in
the archives.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< Try this. Clean the area very thoroughly with a solvent and air blow dry.
Let sit to be sure it's really dry. Spray the area down with dye check
developer (the white powder). After examining for residual oil and there is
no sign of oil, run the engine. The oil will show up quickly in the
developer. If the source of the oil is a crack, it will also reveal the
crack.
>>
This is an excellent suggestion Dan. Something else that works well if you
dont have access to the developer is baby powder. I have had pretty good
success with it.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | VS410 hinge riveting question |
Listers:
Any suggestions on how best to rivet the VS410 hinge brackets successfully
to the spar?
The holes are so close to the 90 degree bend in the hinge that my Avery back
rivet set barely fits, and the rivets bend over every time. I checked the
rivet size against the plans and used the Avery rivet length gauges prior to
riveting. The pneumatic squeezer (2 1/2 in. flange yoke ground down a
little) hits the hinge as it squeezes down and ruins the rivet also. All the
other rivets on the spar look fine!
Thanks!
Phil
80691, RV-8 (on my second VS because of this problem).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vaso Bovan <Vaso_Bovan(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
>>[RV-List]The prime reason for going to a larger alternator pulley is to
reduce the
>>amount of power used to drive the alternator at unnecessary high speed,
>>thereby allowing the saved power to be utilized elseware.
>>I'll leave it to one of the engineering types to try to describe dynamics
of
>>and the amount of power wasteage above six or seven thousand rpm. The
horse
>>power wasted is considerable.
> [Robert Nucholls] Again, an over fertilized myth. Power input is equal
to power
> output less losses in the device. As RPM goes up, torque goes down. And
> except for increase in windage losses, input horsepower is a constant
> for constant ouput watts. When RPM goes up, field current goes down
> (lower heat output) and cooling goes up (fans turn faster). The faster
you
> turn an alternator, the better it likes it.
??
Robert:
I quote from the SAE/Bosch book "Automotive Electrics/Electronics, 2nd Ed,
1994, (Author is Dr.-Ing K. G. Burger], pg 331:
"The maximum efficiency of an air-cooled alternator is approximately 65%, a
figure which drops rapidly when speed is increased."
"Power losses are shown in figure 2, below. The major losses are iron
losses, copper losses and mechanical losses. Iron losses...increase
superproportionally with frequency...Mechanical losses include friction
losses at the rolling bearings and at the sliding contacts as well as the
windage losses of the rotor and the fan. At higher speeds the fan losses
increase considerably"
[Figure 2 shows Power In vs Power Out, as a function of Frequency. Power
Out is held constant (presumably by field weakening). Power In rises more
or less linearly on the graph and has five lossy components: Field Copper
Loss (stays constant with frequency); Diode Loss (stays constant with
frequency); Stator Iron
Stator Copper Loss (stays constant with frequency, or perhaps decreases
slightly); Mechanical Losses (rises rapidly with frequency)].
This graph clearly show power loss ("horsepower wastage") increases with
rpm, almost entirely due to iron losses (hysteresis and eddy currents) and
friction+windage. Only copper losses stay constant or decrease slightly. It
appears efficiency goes from ~60% at 5,000 rpm to ~30% at 15,000rpm. So, it
appears there is some justification for installing a pulley (so long as
rated power is still achieved at ramp idle).
Comments ?
-Vaso
________________________________________________________________________________
John
I have used Varsol ( a type mineral spirits ) does not harm hoses and wires
ets. I high presure spray the engine down, Place a pan under the engine to
catch the
Varsol after it is applied. This cleans the entire engine, as soon as you are
done with the Varsol dry the engine with your air gun.
Now run the engine for about 10 minutes on the ground - shut down and look for
the leak, I have replaced the filler tube gasket 3 times, on my IO 360 C1E6 (
Seneca 1 )
the Varsol found the problem every time,
Good Luck
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
Mark
AC43-1A/2A I was able to get from Aircraft Spruce - however at an IA course
just 2 weeks ago the stated that AC43.13-1A/2A has been replaced by a ne
update
AC 43.13-2B, so dont purchase the old version.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Sanchez" <rsanchez(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale RV6 wing and tail kit |
$3500.
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: gary white <gwhite(at)vaxxine.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale RV6 wing and tail kit
>
>Hi:
>How much are you asking for the Rv6 kits ?
>Gary
>gwhite(at)vaxxine.com
>
>Rich Sanchez wrote:
>
>>
>> For sale, RV6a wing and tail kit still in box, wing has Phlogist spar,
>> plans, plus 90% completed tail, metal wing jig. Make offer.
>> Located in Hagerstown, MD. Send inquires to: rsanchez(at)cvn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "riveter" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal |
I am about to close my first wing. Having used the bottom skin first method,
I will have to rivet the aileron gap seal after the top skins are riveted in
place. Have any of you been able to do this without having to use pop rivets
on the gap seal?Maybe a special bucking bar could be used to get between the
rear spar and the gap seal.
Mark McGee
RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Hi Mark,
AC43.13-1B (the latest release that replaces AC43.13-1A) is available
in at least two places on the web. Try
http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/
It is also available on the FAA site at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/1a-cover.pdf Once you reach the
cover of AC 43.13-1B, click in the blue box which will take you to
the first page of the AC. To continue, click in the blue box of the
first page. This will take you to the contents. Continue by clicking
on the black boxes containing the titles the sections within the
chapters. These are Adobe Acrobat files, so you need Adobe Acrobat
Reader, http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/acrobat/readstep.html
Both these links to AC43.13-1B are available on my RV-Links page, at
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (inventorying fuse kit, then fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
> After seeing many references to this AC on the list and searching the
> archives plus the FAA search utilities, I still can't find out how to
> get a copy- anyone know if it's available on the web or from good ol'
> Uncle Sam?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Mark in TN, still empping along...
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | position sensor for flaps |
Yep, Did the simplest form I could think of: Lines on the inboard edge
of the ailerons. Simple, low maintenance, and accurate. When asked how I
see black lines on Grey paint after dark, I usually reply " if you need
to see them then, you shouldn't be flying in the dark!".....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Wiesel [SMTP:dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 6:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: position sensor for flaps
>
>
>
> Has anyone installed a position sensor for the electric flaps. Where
> did
> you install it and did you use the MAC Position Sensor?
>
> If not what other dial etc have been used and where can I find them..
> Spruce has one..any others??
> Dan Wiesel
> RV6a QB Canopy frame in, fearing canopy install
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
| Subject: | Brakes to both sides |
While still working away on my RV8, a small group from my glider club have
asked me to buy a share in a 150h/p fixed pitch RV6 with 150hrsTT.
Even though this goes against my better judgement, after reading some of
your flying stories here on the list I can't bring myself to say NO!!!, so
this weekend we will take delivery of a shinny near new aeroplane. ( I so
badly want one of those RV grins)
My question is, This aircraft only has brakes on the left hand side, is it a
big job to fit brakes to the other side as well.
Thank You
Trevor Mills 80605.
working on left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
>
>I am about to close my first wing. Having used the bottom skin first
method,
>I will have to rivet the aileron gap seal after the top skins are riveted
in
>place. Have any of you been able to do this without having to use pop
rivets
>on the gap seal?Maybe a special bucking bar could be used to get between
the
>rear spar and the gap seal.
>
I found the gap seal is so flexible it is easy to bend it away from the spar
to rivet to the skin. I used one of the common bucking bars. The long one
that has a rectangular piece on one end and a wedge piece on the other end.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
<< I am about to close my first wing. Having used the bottom skin first
method,
I will have to rivet the aileron gap seal after the top skins are riveted in
place. Have any of you been able to do this without having to use pop rivets
on the gap seal?Maybe a special bucking bar could be used to get between the
rear spar and the gap seal.
Mark McGee
RV-4 Wings
>>
Archives, man! Look in the archives! Here it is one more time....
If you do not cut the gap seal (as is used on the -4 and -6; the -8 is
different), it overlays the rear spar. Simply use the rear spar/skin rivets to
attach the thing. The second row of rivets is redundant. Redundant. ;-)
Check six!
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: position sensor for flaps |
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
>
>
> Yep, Did the simplest form I could think of: Lines on the inboard edge
> of the ailerons. Simple, low maintenance, and accurate. When asked how I
> see black lines on Grey paint after dark, I usually reply " if you need
> to see them then, you shouldn't be flying in the dark!".....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV RV-6A
> E. Windsor, Ct
That's basically the one I used Fred only I didn't paint the black
lines.:) I find that it is really simple to look and see where the
flaps are and after a few flights you don't even have to do that.
> >
> >
> > Has anyone installed a position sensor for the electric flaps. Where
> > did
> > you install it and did you use the MAC Position Sensor?
> >
> > If not what other dial etc have been used and where can I find them..
> > Spruce has one..any others??
> > Dan Wiesel
> > RV6a QB Canopy frame in, fearing canopy install
--
Jerry Springer|RV-6 First Flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
Scott,
No. UPS is not that infallible.
Just last week I ordered a new computer from Dell, located about 150 miles
from where I live. UPS says over night ground delivery. By UPS tracking on
the web, the shipment left the company as three packages, checked into UPS
in Austin, and all three checked out at 7:10 PM on Tues. Two got to
Granbury at o530 the next am, out of Granbury at 0700 and delivered at 319
to me. The 3rd package was unknown location other than out of Austin. It
was lost. It took three days before some sight scanned it and got it back
into the system. It finally made it here yesterday. (6 days ). So they do
not know at all times where everything is. If it is lost, it is lost.
Still, all in all, UPS did a very good job of delivering most of my stuff
when I was building. In fact, Fred, the UPS driver at the time, helped set
a few rivets.
Now, if I can just figure out this new computer!!!! This is my first e-mail
on it. Hope I don't blow the list off the air.
John Darby
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
>it to the small package industry. A small package or envelope is much
>easier to misplace or overlook yet UPS and FedEx both consistently deliver
>on time (probably in much greater quantities) and have tracking systems
>that know where a package is at all times. I have never had a problem with
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes to both sides |
Mills, Trevor R wrote:
> --While still working away on my RV8, a small group from my glider club have
> asked me to buy a share in a 150h/p fixed pitch RV6 with 150hrsTT.
> Even though this goes against my better judgement, after reading some of
> your flying stories here on the list I can't bring myself to say NO!!!, so
> this weekend we will take delivery of a shinny near new aeroplane. ( I so
> badly want one of those RV grins)
>
> My question is, This aircraft only has brakes on the left hand side, is it a
> big job to fit brakes to the other side as well.
> Thank You
> Trevor Mills 80605.
> working on left wing
>
Trevor - the hardest part of the job is removing and reinstalling the rudder
pedals. It is doable but a tight fit. (Actually the job can be done without
removing the pedals but you will have a lot of difficulty lying under the IP and
trying to install spacer washers, cotter pins, and brake lines). I hope that
your working with the hanging type pedals - if not consider changing over to
this style. The update kit from Vans has everything you need to make the change.
The only difficulty I can see is either moving the brake reservoir to the right
side or routing a longer feed line to the right side pedals. The change over
will take you about two hours and building the right side brake pedals is going
to take most of that time. I changed mine over after listening to several RV
owners tell of their experiences. I haven't flown yet but I am far enough along
that adding the brakes was accomplished on a nearly finished airframe and like
I
said it is a bit tight but doable.
Have fun with your "new' bird. I' a bit jealous :-)
DGM RV-6 STILL working on the cowl !
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Go get a Fluorescent die from an automotive shop (it will not hurt your
engine) and add it to your oil. Go fly for several hours and bring your
aircraft back into the hangar. Get a black light and inspect your engine. The
die will light up and you will be able to spot the leak.
Gary Corde
RV6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dimeo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VS410 hinge riveting question |
Phil,
Sounds like you need the old rivet and buck bar approach here. Squeezers can
only do so much in spaces like this. If you feel uncomfortable let someone who
is an experienced bucker (no pun intended- well m maybe!) work the shop head
side and you handle the rivet gun. You should be able to buck a good head on the
rivet. Put tape on the bucking bar on the side that will rest against the flange
of the spar so you don't mark it up when driving the rivet.
Have fun and don't let the b#@$
%
$# wear you down!
Bob
RV8 #423
pdsmith wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> Any suggestions on how best to rivet the VS410 hinge brackets successfully
> to the spar?
>
> The holes are so close to the 90 degree bend in the hinge that my Avery back
> rivet set barely fits, and the rivets bend over every time. I checked the
> rivet size against the plans and used the Avery rivet length gauges prior to
> riveting. The pneumatic squeezer (2 1/2 in. flange yoke ground down a
> little) hits the hinge as it squeezes down and ruins the rivet also. All the
> other rivets on the spar look fine!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Phil
> 80691, RV-8 (on my second VS because of this problem).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Don't think the dye is necessary. Oil fluoresces under "black light" I've
bee told that this is a method that Continental uses at the factory.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com <RV6junkie(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Leaks
>
>Go get a Fluorescent die from an automotive shop (it will not hurt your
>engine) and add it to your oil. Go fly for several hours and bring your
>aircraft back into the hangar. Get a black light and inspect your engine.
The
>die will light up and you will be able to spot the leak.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
Now that mention it... You just blew off my monitor... Please send new 20"
to...
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact
-----Original Message-----
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Roadway 0 for 2
>
>Scott,
>
>No. UPS is not that infallible.
>Just last week I ordered a new computer from Dell, located about 150 miles
>from where I live. UPS says over night ground delivery. By UPS tracking
on
>the web, the shipment left the company as three packages, checked into UPS
>in Austin, and all three checked out at 7:10 PM on Tues. Two got to
>Granbury at o530 the next am, out of Granbury at 0700 and delivered at 319
>to me. The 3rd package was unknown location other than out of Austin. It
>was lost. It took three days before some sight scanned it and got it back
>into the system. It finally made it here yesterday. (6 days ). So they
do
>not know at all times where everything is. If it is lost, it is lost.
>Still, all in all, UPS did a very good job of delivering most of my stuff
>when I was building. In fact, Fred, the UPS driver at the time, helped set
>a few rivets.
>Now, if I can just figure out this new computer!!!! This is my first
e-mail
>on it. Hope I don't blow the list off the air.
>
>John Darby
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
>>it to the small package industry. A small package or envelope is much
>>easier to misplace or overlook yet UPS and FedEx both consistently deliver
>>on time (probably in much greater quantities) and have tracking systems
>>that know where a package is at all times. I have never had a problem
with
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
John,
In addition to the other methods already posted, I have used masking tape
to cover all the suspect areas. Cover them all up, and go fly. If the
oil is on the inside, that is your leak, if it is on the outside, then
the leak is somewhere else. You need to be careful when spotting leaks
on and air cooled engine, remembering that there is a lot of air movement
through the cowling. Remember that the oil will stick to relatively cold
objects like intake tubes, pushrod tubes and crankcase and will tend to
runoff of hot objects like cylinder barrels and heads. Like everyone
else said, you need to start with a clean engine, run it and look as many
times as it takes. The oil filler tube is relatively cold and is
downstream of a lot of other potential leaks, such as cylinder base
seals.
Bruce Green
RV-8 preview plans
writes:
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to locate an oil leak?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
C-frame slipped and I made an extra dimple in the skin one hole out
from here the 602 spar and the 607 are joined on the horiz stab, I've
fixed the dimple (it also formed a small stress fx which I stop drilled
3/64 in. length). Should I add an extra rivet next to it, and what
spacing should I use?
Chris Santschi 80881
Festus MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | position sensor for flaps |
I think the simplest and neatest was the installation I saw where the
builder had taped the numbers directly to the flap. As the flaps came
down to 10 deg. the number ten appeared out from under the wing on the
flap and so on. I'd probably go with this method if I had chosen
electric flaps.
---"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
>
>
> Yep, Did the simplest form I could think of: Lines on the inboard edge
> of the ailerons. Simple, low maintenance, and accurate. When asked
how I
> see black lines on Grey paint after dark, I usually reply " if you
need
> to see them then, you shouldn't be flying in the dark!".....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV RV-6A
> E. Windsor, Ct
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Wiesel [SMTP:dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com]
> > Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 6:20 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: position sensor for flaps
> >
> >
> >
> > Has anyone installed a position sensor for the electric flaps. Where
> > did
> > you install it and did you use the MAC Position Sensor?
> >
> > If not what other dial etc have been used and where can I find
them..
> > Spruce has one..any others??
> > Dan Wiesel
> > RV6a QB Canopy frame in, fearing canopy install
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internet Taxation |
This is definitely a hoax. Please go to
http://ciac.llnl.gov/ciac/CIACHoaxes.html
and follow the link "Internet Access Charge."
In general, I've found the CIAC web site to be a very reliable way
to check out hoaxes. I encourage everyone to check out every item
like this they receive before sending it on. The are almost always
hoaxes!
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple Problems |
Chris,
... this is exactly what is in the rivet specs at my web site.
Minimum edge distance and minimum spacing are both quoted. You can usually
insert extra rivets within Vans standard spacing pattern and meet both
minimums.
***************** yesterday's message ******************
George ... thanks for the endorsement...:
)
but PLEASE bookmark
http://www.flash.net/~gila
...any other locations in my web site are likely to change, and
the rivet spec will always remain one click away from this location.
Thanks ... Gil (the rivet webmaster) Alexander
*******************************************************
>
> C-frame slipped and I made an extra dimple in the skin one hole out
>from here the 602 spar and the 607 are joined on the horiz stab, I've
>fixed the dimple (it also formed a small stress fx which I stop drilled
>3/64 in. length). Should I add an extra rivet next to it, and what
>spacing should I use?
>
>Chris Santschi 80881
>Festus MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
I recently tried this on my C-172. It works great! I bought the dye
from NAPA for less than $4.00 and borrowed a black light from a GM
dealer mechanic. You won't believe how well this works.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, canopy
Go get a Fluorescent die from an automotive shop (it
will not hurt your
engine) and add it to your oil. Go fly for several hours
and bring your
aircraft back into the hangar. Get a black light and
inspect your engine. The
die will light up and you will be able to spot the leak.
Gary Corde
RV6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: VS410 hinge riveting question |
>Listers:
>
>Any suggestions on how best to rivet the VS410 hinge brackets
>successfully
>to the spar?
>Phil
>80691, RV-8 (on my second VS because of this problem).
>
Phil:
I have found that driving the #4 rivets always works better than trying
to squeeze them.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Fellow builders,
I'm trying to finish up the engine compartment and get
ready for paint. While I was finally able to work my way
through the baffle instructions, (I'm now qualified at
reading Egyptian hierogliphics(sp)) I still have a problem
resolving my heat muff configuration. The archives were
not much help to my particular problem.
I have an RV-6, O-320 with fixed pitch prop, Vetterman
crossover exhaust, and S-cowl. I bought the longer
heat muff from Van's. Unfortunately, I can only get it to
fit in one spot and that's the straight section outboard of
the slip joint from the No's 2 and 4 cylinders. When I try
and fit the muff there, it either rubs the cowling or provides
very minimal clearance. If I try to rotate it around the
exhaust tube to increase the clearance, the in and out
tubes on the muff hit the engine case or are pointed
in the wrong direction.
Van's has a shorter muff with the in and out tubes offset
90 degrees from each other. Is this the muff that most
people are using? I'm in a cold climate and was worried
that the shorter muff might not provide sufficient heat.
In similar situations, what have other builders used?
I wanted to try and resolve this before I send off my
next (hopefully the last) order to Van's. Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 "Getting Ready to Paint"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <himsl(at)wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | RV8 / Tank / Poor Rivet Job |
Hello,
I have just riveted my left wing tank ribs to the skin using pro seal.
All of the ribs except the end ones.
Problem:
The rivet job looks terrible. The heads on a lot (most all) of the rivets
stick too far above the surface of the skin. My Horizontal Stabilizer
looks better. Also around a lot of the rivets is this black pro seal ring,
again another indication that the rivets didn't seat properly. Stiffeners
look ok.
Question:
What is the best way to deal with this? Let the pro seal dry and then redo
each rivet or should I yank the ribs, clean up the pro seal as best I can
and start over or what? Should I have touched up the dimple C.S. with the
Counter Sink cutter to allow for the pro seal?
Question 2.
I mixed the catalyst with the pro seal (all of it) and put it in the
freezer. How long will it be useable before it starts setting up in the can?
The pro seal hasn't dried completely yet (1.5 day) so I have a small window
to work with.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flap position sensor |
I installed an led type indicator in my 4. I have a slider type reostat tied
into the flap linkage for the electric flaps. I have 4 led lights in a
vertical line, each one a different color representing the selected flap
position from 10deg to full down.
Now with all that said, it looks nifty but I never use it. In my 550hrs I may
have looked at it once or twice but thats it. I simply look over my shoulders
as I drop the flaps to where I want them. I think most will find that a fancy
indicator is really not worth the time and effort spent putting it all
together. Just my 2 cents worth.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarge(at)ioinc.tucson.az.us> |
| Subject: | Buttons for Sun N' Fun |
I liked the idea of 'no JPI' buttons, so I checked with a local
(Tucson) button maker. Buttons with 2 color artwork on a white background,
2.25" in diameter would be $0.47 ea. in qty 500 and $0.32 ea. in qty 1000.
They'll do orders as small as 100 pieces.
Anybody interested?
--
Tom Sargent, Synergy Microsystems,520-690-1709, sarge(at)synergymicro.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun |
Tom,
Count me in, I'll take (10). That way I can pass some out at Sun - N -
Fun.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 11:27:52 -0700
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: tom sargent <sarge(at)ioinc.tucson.az.us>
>Subject: RV-List: Buttons for Sun N' Fun
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I liked the idea of 'no JPI' buttons, so I checked with a local
>(Tucson) button maker. Buttons with 2 color artwork on a white
background,
>2.25" in diameter would be $0.47 ea. in qty 500 and $0.32 ea. in qty
1000.
>They'll do orders as small as 100 pieces.
>
> Anybody interested?
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, Synergy Microsystems,520-690-1709, sarge(at)synergymicro.com
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Randy,
You need the shorter muff. I use it between Cyl 1 & 3. Since I also live
in a cold climate (New England) I increased the heat output by making a
spring from .020 diameter SS safety wire (wound it on a dowel rotated by a
hand drill...) and wrapping it around the exhaust pipe under the muff. Works
great....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy J. Pflanzer [SMTP:rpflanze(at)iquest.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 12:37 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cabin Heat Muff
>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> I'm trying to finish up the engine compartment and get
> ready for paint. While I was finally able to work my way
> through the baffle instructions, (I'm now qualified at
> reading Egyptian hierogliphics(sp)) I still have a problem
> resolving my heat muff configuration. The archives were
> not much help to my particular problem.
>
> I have an RV-6, O-320 with fixed pitch prop, Vetterman
> crossover exhaust, and S-cowl. I bought the longer
> heat muff from Van's. Unfortunately, I can only get it to
> fit in one spot and that's the straight section outboard of
> the slip joint from the No's 2 and 4 cylinders. When I try
> and fit the muff there, it either rubs the cowling or provides
> very minimal clearance. If I try to rotate it around the
> exhaust tube to increase the clearance, the in and out
> tubes on the muff hit the engine case or are pointed
> in the wrong direction.
>
> Van's has a shorter muff with the in and out tubes offset
> 90 degrees from each other. Is this the muff that most
> people are using? I'm in a cold climate and was worried
> that the shorter muff might not provide sufficient heat.
>
> In similar situations, what have other builders used?
> I wanted to try and resolve this before I send off my
> next (hopefully the last) order to Van's. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
> RV-6 "Getting Ready to Paint"
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Muff |
Randy,
Do you have enough room to put the muff on one of the front crossover
tubes. I ran into the same problem you did on my O-360 and Vetterman
exhaust. I used the Robbins heat muff which is a little more flexible
for installation. Being in a cold climate, I used two muffs and ran them
in series. Have flown warm and naked in -5F weather:)
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> Fellow builders,
> heat muff from Van's. Unfortunately, I can only get it to
> fit in one spot and that's the straight section outboard of
> the slip joint from the No's 2 and 4 cylinders. When I try
> and fit the muff there, it either rubs the cowling or provides
> very minimal clearance. If I try to rotate it around the
> exhaust tube to increase the clearance, the in and out
> tubes on the muff hit the engine case or are pointed
> in the wrong direction.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Muff |
Randy,
See if you can return the muff!
You need the muffs sold by Robbins Wings:
ROBBINS' WINGS (RICK ROBBINS) 303-422-9389 HEAT MUFFS
They will fit nicely and are high quality.
By the way, for those of you who tried to access the D.J. Lauritson
Interior Installation page and couldn't, it is now back up:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/interior.html
Sam Buchanan (RV6, engine done, panel/wiring done, interior in,
.......what do I do next?)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
-------------------------------------
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> I'm trying to finish up the engine compartment and get
> ready for paint. While I was finally able to work my way
> through the baffle instructions, (I'm now qualified at
> reading Egyptian hierogliphics(sp)) I still have a problem
> resolving my heat muff configuration. The archives were
> not much help to my particular problem.
>
> I have an RV-6, O-320 with fixed pitch prop, Vetterman
> crossover exhaust, and S-cowl. I bought the longer
> heat muff from Van's. Unfortunately, I can only get it to
> fit in one spot and that's the straight section outboard of
> the slip joint from the No's 2 and 4 cylinders. When I try
> and fit the muff there, it either rubs the cowling or provides
> very minimal clearance. If I try to rotate it around the
> exhaust tube to increase the clearance, the in and out
> tubes on the muff hit the engine case or are pointed
> in the wrong direction.
>
> Van's has a shorter muff with the in and out tubes offset
> 90 degrees from each other. Is this the muff that most
> people are using? I'm in a cold climate and was worried
> that the shorter muff might not provide sufficient heat.
>
> In similar situations, what have other builders used?
> I wanted to try and resolve this before I send off my
> next (hopefully the last) order to Van's. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
> RV-6 "Getting Ready to Paint"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 / Tank / Poor Rivet Job |
Vince,
It really is an ugly mess, isn't it!
You need the tank dimple die set from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool Supply.
The dies set the rivets deeper so the proseal won't push them up past
the surface of the skin. The dies also work great on all the
substructure (ribs, bulkheads, etc.). You can see a review of these
dies:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tankdies.html
Hang in there. Very few problems can't be fixed.
Sam Buchanan (RV6, engine done, panel/wiring done, interior
in,.......what do I do next?)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
------------------
Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have just riveted my left wing tank ribs to the skin using pro seal.
> All of the ribs except the end ones.
>
> Problem:
> The rivet job looks terrible. The heads on a lot (most all) of the rivets
> stick too far above the surface of the skin. My Horizontal Stabilizer
> looks better. Also around a lot of the rivets is this black pro seal ring,
> again another indication that the rivets didn't seat properly. Stiffeners
> look ok.
>
> Question:
> What is the best way to deal with this? Let the pro seal dry and then redo
> each rivet or should I yank the ribs, clean up the pro seal as best I can
> and start over or what? Should I have touched up the dimple C.S. with the
> Counter Sink cutter to allow for the pro seal?
>
> Question 2.
> I mixed the catalyst with the pro seal (all of it) and put it in the
> freezer. How long will it be useable before it starts setting up in the can?
>
> The pro seal hasn't dried completely yet (1.5 day) so I have a small window
> to work with.
>
> Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Vince Himsl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | position sensor for flaps |
Hey! Good excuse for an ice light!
hal
> Yep, Did the simplest form I could think of: Lines on the inboard edge
> of the ailerons. Simple, low maintenance, and accurate. When asked how I
> see black lines on Grey paint after dark, I usually reply " if you need
> to see them then, you shouldn't be flying in the dark!".....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
> Archives, man! Look in the archives! Here it is one more time....
Oh the poor fool forgot to look in the archives -- or maybe he doesn't have the
ability to get web pages??
The archive tool is really great and worth getting access to.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
In a message dated 3/9/99 5:00:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Vaso_Bovan(at)compuserve.com writes:
> Comments ?
>
>
> -Vaso
I put an alternator from a '89 Mazda 323 in my -6a. I left the pulley the
original size. With everything turned on, my electrical system draws 55 amps.
I'm getting this information from my Rocky Mountain Instruments microMonitor,
which uses a Hall effect device to measure DC current. With the engine idling
below 900 rpm, the alternator can't support this 55 amp load, and the
alternator output starts to drop. If I had put a bigger pulley on it, this
drop off at full load would happen at a higher engine rpm. On final approach
in the dark with pitot heat and lights on, I would rather have the alternator
taking the whole load with the engine at flight idle, than sharing it with the
battery. With the bigger pulley, I would have to idle the engine at a somewhat
higher rpm to supply this large electrical load. So, yeah, at full throttle
take off I give up 1/2 to 1 horsepower because of my smaller pulley, but I
want the ability to supply large electrical loads at low engine speeds. But
that's my personal requirement, other builder opinions are likely to vary!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
http://members.aol.com/mlaboyteau/index.html
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
I still have manual flaps with stops for only two positions, i.e. "some"
and "full". The only reason I use the "some" position is that it is too
hard to pull on the flap handle for full flaps when airspeed is at the top
of the white arc. I suspect that when I finish installing the electric
flaps I will still use "some" and "full."
I guess I am saying that a flap position sensor seems superfluous unless
you need the signal for something else, like your AoA sensor.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | flap setting indicator |
Surely a detented flap slider is available. Even the lowly cessna 152
has a detented flap handle with an adjacent actual flap location marker.
What am I missing here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun |
Tom,
I would gladly pay a buck to wear one at SNF. JPI has turned me away from
considering their products. I will be there for at least two days.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
> I liked the idea of 'no JPI' buttons, so I checked with a local
>(Tucson) button maker. Buttons with 2 color artwork on a white background,
>2.25" in diameter would be $0.47 ea. in qty 500 and $0.32 ea. in qty 1000.
>They'll do orders as small as 100 pieces.
>
> Anybody interested?
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, Synergy Microsystems,520-690-1709, sarge(at)synergymicro.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 / Tank / Poor Rivet Job |
Vince,
I had a few high rivets on the fuel tanks on my six. I used the small
Scotchbrite wheel on a die grinder and polished the high rivets down so they
were flush. With a little practice, it's easy to stay on the head of the
rivet and not touch the surrounding area. Of course, if the rivets are
terribly high, this wouldn't work as well as you would remove too much
rivet. I didn't take off material beyond the dimple in the rivet.
For the next tank you might try the tank dimple dies (I have no experience
with these) or, you could do a light touch up with a hand countersink and,
after the proseal is applied and the rivets inserted, press in on the rivets
with a punch to squeeze excess proseal out of the dimple. Time consuming
but it works.
As for the proseal? I'd start new and mix the proseal as you need it.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I have just riveted my left wing tank ribs to the skin using pro seal.
>All of the ribs except the end ones.
>The rivet job looks terrible. The heads on a lot (most all) of the rivets
>stick too far above the surface of the skin.
>What is the best way to deal with this?
>Question 2.
>I mixed the catalyst with the pro seal (all of it) and put it in the
>freezer. How long will it be useable before it starts setting up in the can?
>Vince Himsl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
Thanks to all who have given input regarding the flap sensor. Iwas flying a
Grob that required 15% flaps at takeoff, so I got used to discreet
settings. Since I haven't flow an RV yet (does garage flying without wings
count?!?) I don't really know what to expect. Because I am a new pilot
also, I think it would be nice to have some reference point on a gauge or
on the outside wing as some have and have suggested. I aspire to those of
you who don't need these aids, and can just feel the right setting.
>
>I still have manual flaps with stops for only two positions, i.e. "some"
>and "full". The only reason I use the "some" position is that it is too
>hard to pull on the flap handle for full flaps when airspeed is at the top
>of the white arc. I suspect that when I finish installing the electric
>flaps I will still use "some" and "full."
>
>I guess I am saying that a flap position sensor seems superfluous unless
>you need the signal for something else, like your AoA sensor.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
Dan Wiesel
RV6a QB Canopy frame in, fearing canopy install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NormRainey(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Muff |
In a message dated 3/9/99 10:52:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
<< Van's has a shorter muff with the in and out tubes offset
90 degrees from each other. Is this the muff that most
people are using? I'm in a cold climate and was worried
that the shorter muff might not provide sufficient heat.
In similar situations, what have other builders used?
I wanted to try and resolve this before I send off my
next (hopefully the last) order to Van's. Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 "Getting Ready to Paint"
>>
I found the same problem when trying to put that muff on (I'm actually putting
one on both sides), so I contacted the fellow that makes them (only a few
blocks from my home) and had Dave make a muff correctly for the 2 & 4 pipes.
Yesterday he brought by the pieces to make sure that it will work before
welding it up and Thursday of this week I will have the finished product. He
will have his wife deliver a few of them to Van's also this Thursday, so if
you call them I think there will be a few available.
Good luck!
Norm
Vancouver, WA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Don't use Proseal |
Proseal is a real pain to use (measure, mix and apply). I used (as did all of
the RV builders in my area) a product manufactured by Seal-Pack. The Seal-Pack
product comes premixed and comes in a tube that you just drop into a caulking
gun. Put on a couple of pair of vinyl gloves, pull them off in layers as they
get dirty, no mess.
They are located in Wichita. This is the same stuff that Raytheon, Learjet and
Cessna use.
Contact them at 316.942.6211.
Check the archives, I have covered this several times.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 / Tank / Poor Rivet Job |
Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Should I have touched up the dimple C.S. with the
> Counter Sink cutter to allow for the pro seal?
Sam Buchanan suggested using the 'tank' dimple dies. I didn't do that...
instead, I did what you contemplate here, and it worked out fine.
> I mixed the catalyst with the pro seal (all of it) and put it in the
> freezer.
Oh no!!
> How long will it be useable before it starts setting up in the can?
Dunno. I'd guess maybe 3 or 4 days. If it was me, I'd throw it away and
buy another can from Vans.
Go to <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> and follow the
appropriate link to my tank-building experiences and suggestions.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Sliding Canopy Tip |
Before you drill the UHMW blocks to accept the pins on the canopy frame,
make up a few ( I used about a dozen) wood blocks of the same dimension.
You can use the wood blocks to practice. Set up your drill press, jigs,
etc., drill a wood block, then see how it works. Keep drilling wood
blocks until you get it right. Then drill the UHMW.
Ken Harrill
RV6, canopy
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
Does anyone in the Ontario/ Rancho Cucamonga area of Los Angeles need
help with riveting, etc? I will be in the area the week of March 15-19
and available in the evenings. David Ahrens, RV-6A fuselage,
Bakersfield, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 / Tank / Poor Rivet Job |
In a message dated 3/9/99 10:19:01 AM Pacific Standard Time, himsl(at)wsu.edu
writes:
<< What is the best way to deal with this? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don't use Proseal |
In a message dated 3/9/99 1:58:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, RV6junkie(at)aol.com
writes:
<< This is the same stuff that Raytheon, Learjet and
Cessna use. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | San Diego/Rancho Bernardo RVs projects??? |
I will be in the San Diego (specifically Rancho Bernardo) area this
Wednesday and Thursday and would love to see some RV projects underway or
completed.
Anyone close to RB and willing to share your progress and ideas??
I am currently building an RV6A(QB) ... working on sliding canopy,
worrying about instruments, engine, paint colors, interiors etc.
If you can accomodate a visitor in the late afternoon/evening of either
Thursday or Friday and are somewhat near RB, please respond to me off-list
at:
James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net
Thanks!
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
lucky macy wrote:
>
> Surely a detented flap slider is available. Even the lowly cessna 152
> has a detented flap handle with an adjacent actual flap location marker.
> What am I missing here?
>
I tuned in this thread a little late so this may be repetitious, perish the
thought.
The flap indictor thing comes up often, and it is hard to cope with gadgetitis
and or the comfort zone of previous experience; however my electric flap RV has
an indicator which is three marker pen lines on the left aileron, which are
marked off at the angles where the flap is at 10, one half and full down.. I
have found a take off setting of ten is best so I glance out the wing to verify
the setting and take off. One half seems to be good for base leg and full for
short final. An alternative is another set of marker lines drawn on the top of
the front of the left flap which will be exposed as the flap is extended to
required settings. These tend to wear off from rubbing after a few hundred
extensions.
As far as I can tell, those with manual flap handles don't seem to feel the
need of any further indicators other than the handle positioin and a glance out
the window.
No one who has flown with me has expressed any feeling of short coming with the
indicators.
I strongly suggest you fly before you buy as far as indicator gadgets are
concerned.
D Walsh RV-6a (over 400 hrs now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cat induced corrosion |
CAT ............ The other white meat!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 air in brake lines |
For a computerless friend:
His -6 with floor mounted pedals & dual brakes regularly gets air in the
line between pilot & passenger right brake cylinders, causing loss of
braking. He says that even wih careful bleeding & full reservoirs, he
will find air in the line looped (up) over from pilot to passenger side
after the plane sits for several days. I haven't seen the installation;
just trying to relay his words. Brakes work ok after bleeding. I assume
he isn't seeing any leaking fluid.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy <ebundy(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator counterweights |
I wondered the same thing. I talked to someone at Van's about it (about 3
years ago) and they said that they wouldn't worry about any extra weight the
paint might add as long as it wasn't real heavy.
I still had nagging doubts however, so I installed a fair sized bolt in the
inboard rib of each elevator about 3/4 of the way to the trailing edge and
balanced the elevator with it in place. Then when I paint (next month, hey,
it's only been two years!) I'll remove the bolts and drill out enough of the
lead to return them to perfect anal-retentive balance.
Ed Bundy - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)cwix.com
http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathy & Bill Peck <peck(at)amigo.net>
Date: Monday, March 08, 1999 9:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator counterweights
>the inevitable fine tuning and adjusting that the test flights trigger. I
>expect the paint to change the balance on the elevators by a half ounce or
>so (based on past model building experience), and am trying to figure out
if
>that's worth worrying about in the grand scheme of things, and what the
>effects of imbalance are on the elevators (and how critical that is)
anyway.
>case. But - how sensitive is this whole subject? Should I just go ahead
>and balance now, then only deal with re-working the weights if I notice a
>difference after paint? Or just get it pretty close & fly it? Or make
>plans to add a little lead to match the paint???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
To Mark; I riveted the aileron gap seal sandwiched between the top skin
and spar and I am happy with the results. I also back riveted it with a
long offset attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | JPI - persistence needed |
Listers,
JPI have gone very quiet - web site comments gone, no replies to we
rabble rousers, no communication (to my knowledge) to Matt.
Fellas, they are hoping we will go away!
They are sitting in the bunker with the lights off, waiting for the
noise to subside. Already the emails and faxes have dropped to a
trickle. They are counting on our apathy and short attention span. If
they tough it out a little longer, all will be well and they can get
back to their normal healthy predatory activities.
Predatory? Why predatory? Because their ultimatum to Matt STILL
STANDS! Next February, when the 12 month ultimatum expires, they hope
to move in on Matt with barely a murmur from Matt's jaded supporters.
Well I ain't lying down for 12 months guys! I hereby undertake to
send JPI a letter every week until they agree to leave Matt alone.
WILL YOU UNDERTAKE TO JOIN ME? Will you let them know that you won't
forget, you will talk, and you do want them to take constructive
action to avoid shooting more of their toes off? I don't know about
you, but I'd like to see JPI be a good corporate citizen, prosper and
grow, and produce more innovative goodies for you and me. However, they do
have to reestablish their bona fides before they regain credibility
with me.
I have sent them this week's letter as follows.
The President,
JP Instruments
PO Box 7033
Huntington Beach CA 92615
USA
Dear sir,
I was pleased to see that you have you have removed from your website
your statement rationalising your action against Matronics. Certainly
one cannot defend the indefensible, as your statement attempted to do.
You could restore the lost goodwill in your customers and potential
customers who are temporarily so alienated by your actions, if you
were now to initiate conciliatory action. The longer you leave such
conciliation, however, the more the suspicion will grow that you
intend your ultimatum to Matronics to stand and to be effected next
February.
Please do not underestimate the persistence and determination of those
outraged by your actions. It is up to you to reverse the
counterproductive course you have set.
Yours sincerely,
Peter L Bennett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
> In a message dated 3/9/99 5:00:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> Vaso_Bovan(at)compuserve.com writes:
>
>Robert:
>I quote from the SAE/Bosch book "Automotive Electrics/Electronics, 2nd Ed,
>1994, (Author is Dr.-Ing K. G. Burger], pg 331:
"Some stuff snipped"
> It
>appears efficiency goes from ~60% at 5,000 rpm to ~30% at 15,000rpm. So, it
>appears there is some justification for installing a pulley (so long as
>rated power is still achieved at ramp idle).Comments ?-Vaso
I went out and measured the pulley on my -6A last night. The radius measured
about an average of 2.75". My flywheel pulley has a radius of 7". This gives
me an alternator rotor speed of 7/2.75 * 2700 rpm=6872 rpm at redline engine
speed, in cruise at 2400 rpm, the alternator speed is 6110 rpm. My buddy
Jack's new O-360 has a flywheel pulley with a radius of 9". With the same
alternator, it's rotor speed at engine redline would be 8836 rpm. In cruise at
2400 rpm, it would be 7854 rpm. This rotor speed, in my opinion, isn't really
enough of a problem to be concerned about. One other factor, my alternator
pulley has a static clearance of about 2 inches. But at high speeds, with a 3
g pull up, the edge of the belt will rub on the inside of the cowling. During
my high speed testing, at an indicated airspeed of 230 mph, it rubbed. Using a
bigger pulley would decrease the clearance and aggravate this problem. I know
that I've seen several -6's at fly ins with small smile shaped slots cut in
the cowlings by alternator pulleys. Just some food for thought.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
writes:
<< To Mark; I riveted the aileron gap seal sandwiched between the top skin
and spar and I am happy with the results. I also back riveted it with a
long offset attachment.
>>
Dear Mr Blah: ;-)
Was your building style due to any tips recieved on the RV-list, or had you
heard of this before, or did you figure it out yourself?
Sounds like you did the top skins first, also. Any problems there?
Check six!
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
<http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/>>
Let's not forget that AC43.13-1B is also available from our favorite aircraft
parts supplier.....Van's. Mine is in the mail. Should be here today.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV-6 QB
198RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Buttons for Sun N' Fun |
Where do I send my dollar too!!!!!
Doug Hormann
RV-6
Hillsboro, OR
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Baker
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 12:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Buttons for Sun N' Fun
>
>
>
> Tom,
>
> I would gladly pay a buck to wear one at SNF. JPI has turned me away from
> considering their products. I will be there for at least two days.
>
> Gary Baker
> RV-6 (Working on wings)
> N4GB (Reserved)
> Medina, OH
>
> > I liked the idea of 'no JPI' buttons, so I checked with a local
> >(Tucson) button maker. Buttons with 2 color artwork on a white
> background,
> >2.25" in diameter would be $0.47 ea. in qty 500 and $0.32 ea. in
> qty 1000.
> >They'll do orders as small as 100 pieces.
> >
> > Anybody interested?
> >
> >--
> >Tom Sargent, Synergy Microsystems,520-690-1709, sarge(at)synergymicro.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
I started riveting my HS last night after ripping open the box from Avery
and extracting the flush swivel rivet set. I used Scott McDaniels idea with
the electricians tape and it worked great! Definately worth the money IMHO.
Doug Hormann
RV-6
Hillsboro, OR
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kerrjb(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 4:03 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flush rivet set
>
>
> In a message dated 2/16/99 1:55:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com writes:
>
> << I've been using this set all along. It works great but it gets
> dirty and I
> find that I get black marks around the rivet. Does every one
> else have this
> problem or just me, and how can I clean it. Any ideas? >>
>
> Got this idea from Scott McDaniels I beleive. Tape a strip of black
> electricians plastic tape on the head and you will get about 50
> -100 rivets
> before you need to change it out.
>
> Bernie Kerr
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net> |
| Subject: | N-number reservation/registration |
Hi Folks,
The FAA Aircraft Registry can be reached by that name at
PO Box 25504
Oklahoma City, OK 73125
405-954-4504
Fee is $10 per year for a reserved number. I found a 'form' for this in the
archives under a message from Gil Alexander dated Aug 2, 1995 with the
Subject: FAA "N" number reservation form.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
Well lucky,
I'll take a guess. I believe there's a requirement for flaps to
have
a position indicator in FAR 43. I further believe that many of us on the
list are trying to build, as closely as possible, to FAR 43.; even though
we are not required to.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>Surely a detented flap slider is available. Even the lowly cessna 152
has a detented flap handle with an adjacent actual flap location marker.
>What am I missing here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing center section bolt holes misaligned - the fix |
I got the fix for this problem from from Van today. Apparently, it is
very common but there is no mention of it in the manual so I thought I
would post it. There was an attachment included with a drawing which I
did not forward, but here is the text:
[When the RV-6/6A fuselage is built, a false spar is used to maintain
the alignment between the bolt holes on the F-604A and F-604B bulkhead
sides. When this support is removed, it is common for the holes to
shift slightly, particularly on the F-604B bulkhead sides. This
apparent mis-alignment has caused a few builders, particularly those
with QuickBuild kits, some concern.
Fortunately, the problem is easy to fix. Usually, the holes in the
free floating F-604B bulkhead sides (DWG 15) relax slightly inboard of
the holes in the rigid F-604A on removal of the false spar. The
solution is to spread the fuselage slightly until the holes re-align.
First insert the wing spars in the fuselage and fix their location
relative to the F-604A with 3-4 bolts near the center of the fuselage.
Then place a small bottle jack on its side on the floor of the
fuselage. Use lengths of 2x2 or 2x4 lumber to reach between the jack
and the lower longerons at the F-655 gusset (see DWG 31.) CAREFULLY use
the jack to open the fuselage until the holes are re-alignedusually
this is no more than 3/16.
While the fuselage sides are held in alignment, use some drift pins
(hardware store bolts with the tip ground to a bullet point) in a couple
of the holes to establish the alignment between the F-604B and the spar
before inserting the actual wing installation bolts. Once the bolts are
in place the jack can be removed.]
Personal note: If anyone wants the document with the drawing, let me
know and I will E-mail it. A fellow builder looked at the bulkhead with
me and thought of trying to figure out a way to push the it back into
alignment, but we both thought the jack idea was to brutal.
Chris Browne
-6A Atlanta
12 ton bottle jack ready to go - think that'll do it? (yikes!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarge(at)ioinc.tucson.az.us> |
| Subject: | Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B |
After a few discussions with other folks, I've decided against the
"no-JPI" buttons. I'd love to see every one wearing one, but something like
that coming from a single individual is likely to draw yet another law suit
from JPI. I'd rather spend my money helping Matt than spreading the
conflagration.
So, here's plan B. How about some "Matronics FUELSCAN" buttons.
Instead of attacking JPI we support Matt. I'm sure Matt could supply some
artwork. I could bring a big sack of the things to Sun N' Fun to
distribute at some RV enclave. I doubt the intent would be missed by the
JPI folks.
So, comments, opinions, flames?
--
Tom Sargent, Synergy Microsystems,520-690-1709, sarge(at)synergymicro.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Template Trap |
>
>I just drilled the last 6 holes in my panel. They were the ones to mount my
>new PS Engineering intercom. Unfortunately, the drilling template supplied
>in the installation kit didn't come close to matching the actual holes in the
>faceplate for the intercom. Try and imagine the happy moment ($!!&*%!)
when I
>went to mount the thing.
>
>My suggestion: Check those templates before you drill.
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>RV-6 with oblong holes where the intercom mounts.
Kyle,
I'm preparing to cut holes in my panel and was planning to use a PM-1000
II which I havent purchased yet. I downloaded dimensions from their
website. I remembered your warning so decided to send an email to their
tech support to verify that the dimensions were accurate, and not in error
as the template is. I went to an avionics shop and looked at one of these
templates. By aligning the faceplate on top of the template you could
clearly see the misalignment without even opening the packaging. I got a
response back from Mark Scheuer saying that they had been producing that
panel/template combo since 1990 and werent aware of any problems. I sent
him a copy of your email and suggested he pull an intercom from inventory
and compare the panel to the template. I got a very apologetic email back
from him this morning stating that he personally would correct the template
today and all their other models would be checked and corrected as
necessary. He remained astounded that to his knowledge no customer in the
past 8 years had ever commented on this to the company.
Mike Wills
RV-4 saving for the finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8;Observations |
On the RV-4 I had, the steering chains were somewhat slack, resulting in
a delay from the time you pushed on the rudder pedal to the time you got
a response. I think this worked great, since I was just learning to fly
the RV, but on the RV-8, I made my chains fairly snug. I did this
because most of the locals and it seemed like most on the rv-list
preferred them tight. I am finding the rudder somewhat 'trigger
sensitive' on landing; but I am slowly getting used to it, mostly by
using my 'toes' instead of my whole foot on the pedals, to avoid
overcontrolling. Another thing is that the RV-8 has a larger rudder(and I
think vertical stabilizer) than the 4, and in flight I notice there is
MUCH more rudder authority. I also notice that in turbulence, this
airplane stays rock solid straight! Stay tuned........
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net> |
| Subject: | FAA N-number OOPS Please read |
Wow, Ma Bell info gave me the wrong number at FAA.
I am re-sending the message below with the correct number. Sorry
Hi Folks,
The FAA Aircraft Registry can be reached by that name at
PO Box 25504
Oklahoma City, OK 73125
405-954-3131
Fee is $10 per year for a reserved number. I found a 'form' for this in the
archives under a message from Gil Alexander dated Aug 2, 1995 with the
Subject: FAA "N" number reservation form.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
________________________________________________________________________________
I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180 hp
Lycs, what your technique is; Do you pull the rpm back a tad just after
takeoff or do you wait til you reach altitude? When slowing down to enter
the pattern, as well as staying in the pattern to do touch n go's, what
exact procedure are most of you using with regards to the prop/throttle?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8 and lovin it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
> I'll take a guess. I believe there's a requirement for flaps to
>have
>a position indicator in FAR 43. I further believe that many of us on the
>list are trying to build, as closely as possible, to FAR 43.; even though
>we are not required to.
Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, I haven't been following the
thread closely. Why not just paint a reference on the inboard section of
the left flap, marked in whatever increments you choose. You could even
flush mount a small light in the side of the fuselage to illuminate the
markings at night, if you felt it necessary.
Since you can see the position of the left flap from your seat, it seems a
position indicator is just another doodad. Marking the flap would satisfy
anyone's requirement for precise information without adding any weight or
complexity.
Lighter + simpler = much more better...
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Archives and email ettiquette - was: Aileron Gap Seal |
It really doesn't matter who wrote:
> Archives, man! Look in the archives!
I suppose this was just a slip of politeness. Let me suggest an alternative way
to respond to a request for information that is in the archives.
First, stop and consider that the person asking the question might not have web
page access due to using DOS or being at work where such frivolity is either
discouraged, blocked or prohibited.
Second, stop and consider that the person asking the question might be a
beginner who has not yet discovered the archives and how easy it is to use - at
least for me as a Silicon Valley software engineer who spends his days helping
programmers all over the world write software that finds stuff in databases.
Third, stop and consider that the person asking the question might be an expert
at searching databases (like me) and still not get a hit. If that hasn't
happended to you yet, you haven't got enough experience searching.
Finally, stop and consider how you, as mentor, would respond to a human standing
close by and looking to you for guidance. I'm sure you would be more gentle and
considerate. You might give the answer and then suggest that more information
might be found in the archives. You might even suggest going directly to the
search engine web page at:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
(Always put URLS on a line all alone)
If you are the recipient of a gruff email - hit delete and consider that the
sender might be having a bad day.
Hal Kempthorne
Senior Engineer
Sybase, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
What has worked well for me in the past 470 hours is:
full throttle, full rpm till 500' AGL, fuel pump off
2500rpm, 25"mp climb to 1000'agl
2500rpm, 15"mp in the pattern (don't want to eat 152's)
2500rpm, 10"mp turning base
prop control in, power whatever to sometimes smooth landing.
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180 hp
> Lycs, what your technique is; Do you pull the rpm back a tad just after
> takeoff or do you wait til you reach altitude? When slowing down to enter
> the pattern, as well as staying in the pattern to do touch n go's, what
> exact procedure are most of you using with regards to the prop/throttle?
> Von Alexander
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
It ws suggested:
> Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, I haven't been following the
> thread closely. Why not just paint a reference on the inboard section of
> the left flap, marked in whatever increments you choose.
My Debonair does it just this way, marks on the flap. Hasn't failed in nearly
35 years.
I think it was Meis Van der Roh (spelling?) - the architect who said, "Less is
more".
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Cowling, wingtips, toxics
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Muff |
Norm,
Thank you so much. I appreciate your response.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: NormRainey(at)aol.com <NormRainey(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin Heat Muff
>
>In a message dated 3/9/99 10:52:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
>
><< Van's has a shorter muff with the in and out tubes offset
> 90 degrees from each other. Is this the muff that most
> people are using? I'm in a cold climate and was worried
> that the shorter muff might not provide sufficient heat.
>
> In similar situations, what have other builders used?
> I wanted to try and resolve this before I send off my
> next (hopefully the last) order to Van's. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G "Special Angel"
> RV-6 "Getting Ready to Paint"
> >>
>I found the same problem when trying to put that muff on (I'm actually
putting
>one on both sides), so I contacted the fellow that makes them (only a few
>blocks from my home) and had Dave make a muff correctly for the 2 & 4
pipes.
>Yesterday he brought by the pieces to make sure that it will work before
>welding it up and Thursday of this week I will have the finished product.
He
>will have his wife deliver a few of them to Van's also this Thursday, so if
>you call them I think there will be a few available.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Norm
>Vancouver, WA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
Hi,
Now flying Von asked:
> I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180 hp
> Lycs, what your technique is;
My old Deb has a constant speed prop. My experience is that many instructors
don't know how they work or should be used as they are not in 150's and
Traumahawks.
I take of with full power (balls {knobs!} to the {fire}wall) and reduce to POH
climb recommendations at 500 AGL (some prefer 1000 AGL but if I think the engine
might quit, I don't takeoff!) For the Deb, climb is at 2500 rpm and 25 inches.
I adjust the prop first.
I fly at one of several settings that are on a little card. You will have fewer
since you (probably) won't have any gear up settings. The settings are climb,
cruise climb, high cruise, cruise, and approach. Before I got my instrument
rating I juggled the controls and did it differently every time as I waltzed
through the sky. I never was comfortable with settings. I still use variations
from the card but now I do have a reference. I think that flying by the numbers
is a good skill to develop. There are some POH's that could serve as a starting
point.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Cowl, wingtips, toxics.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
<< I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180 hp
Lycs, what your technique is; Do you pull the rpm back a tad just after
takeoff or do you wait til you reach altitude?
Hi Von:
Congrats on the completion!
To answer your q:
Maybe. It depends on what you're looking for after t/o - mind-numbing, ear
popping climb rate, or save a bit of fuel. Your call - 2500 RPM & max MP is no
problem, and works just fine. Keep the EGT 150F rich (might need some fiddling
with the mix lever), and you'll have no heat problems either.
When slowing down to enter
the pattern, as well as staying in the pattern to do touch n go's, what
exact procedure are most of you using with regards to the prop/throttle?
Upon entering traffic, I leave the prop set at cruise (2350) or descent (2000)
until I hear an RPM drop (usually on final), then I push the lever fwd. During
closed traffic, I usually pull it back to 2500 or so during the first climb,
and leave it there. One less thing to do...and the ship performs just fine at
that setting. Use power (MP) as necessary.
It's your engine, and your fuel. Use both as you see fit. I can't quote any
hard and fast rules - just don't jerk the throttle closed too quickly (unless
necessary), and the same goes for the prop - no quick movements; keep the
engine 'loaded' as long as possible. "Rosy Doug" can give us a few operating
tips as pertains to them big round engines, which can help the life of our
flat motors too.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8 and lovin it! >>
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA N-number |
If you don't want to dig the info out of the archives, you can find what
you need at this page:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/register.html
Sam Buchanan (RV6, finishing up)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Bill Costello wrote:
>
>
> Wow, Ma Bell info gave me the wrong number at FAA.
> I am re-sending the message below with the correct number. Sorry
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> The FAA Aircraft Registry can be reached by that name at
> PO Box 25504
> Oklahoma City, OK 73125
> 405-954-3131
>
> Fee is $10 per year for a reserved number. I found a 'form' for this in the
> archives under a message from Gil Alexander dated Aug 2, 1995 with the
> Subject: FAA "N" number reservation form.
>
> Best regards,
> Bill Costello
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B |
>
> After a few discussions with other folks, I've decided against the
> "no-JPI" buttons. I'd love to see every one wearing one, but something like
> that coming from a single individual is likely to draw yet another law suit
> from JPI. I'd rather spend my money helping Matt than spreading the
> conflagration.
My Opinion:
I sit here reading the E-mail from the RV-List every day. If I don't clear
the
messages each day they tend to overwhelm my computer. It's become a daily
ritual to read the e-mail from the RV-List. Everyone can send their opinion to
the latest thread, add information that is actually helpful to each other and
contribute something of their own to a group that has become a family with
a common interest. ( Building and Flying RV's ) I don't know about the rest
of you but I'd like to meet each and every one of you some time. Even listens
that I have flamed, I respect each and every one of you and glad you're here.
Now consider how important this list is to you. What if it went away? I'm
all for being conservative in our approach to the JPI lawsuit if it gets the job
done. But, being from the coal fields of Kentucky I can say I haven't seen
people with money defeated unless you threatened to take their money away
from them. That's the only thing they understand.
By only advertising for FuelScan, I'm afraid the intention of drawing
attention to the lawsuit by JPI will be missed, especially by people that don't
belong to the RV-List or know anything about this lawsuit.
Now would be a good time for some guidance from either Matronics or
a representative for Matronics.
I know how the miners in Harlan and Matwan got medical insurance, decent
wages and a better standard of living. It wasn't by hoping everything would
work out by itself and not wanting to intimidate the mine owners.
Jim Nolan
N444JN ( Flame me now, you might not get the chance next February )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI - persistence needed |
>
<<rabble rousers, no communication (to my knowledge) to Matt.
>
>Fellas, they are hoping we will go away!
>
>They are sitting in the bunker with the lights off, waiting for the
>noise to subside. >>>
G'Day Listers,
Excellent post Peter. I will be joining the weekly letter/fax brigade. AOPA
was successful in Australia at changing the ELT regulations, and I am
certain the "Fax Brigade" played a big part in the Fed's making a sensible
decision. I call on ALL the international listers to join us, to show JPI
the issue is global!!
Regards,
Ken Glover Newcastle Australia. Getting ready to proseal tanks RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B |
I haven't voiced my 2 cents on this topic, but I guess now might be the
time. A wise man once told me "never, ever argue with a customer . . . you
will always lose". This man is a multimillionaire because his business put
"customers first" and had the philosophy "the customer is always right".
While the original JPI issue was between two competitors, it is now
obviously grown to an issue between JPI and future customers. JPI can't
"win". They may be "right" regarding trademark issues--but if it costs them
revenue they have only won a battle and lost a major war.
So, if any of us want to put polite and dignified pressure on JPI, the way
to do it is to make sure they know 1: we are disappointed 2: the aviation
community has suffered enough due to getting the legal profession involved
3: our voice and vote is made through our pocketbooks. I've written JPI a
letter, businessman to businessman (I'm pres/ceo of a medical device
company--I've had my share of legal correspondence both on trademarks and
also on patents), suggesting they apologize for all of the hard feelings and
move on. I don't know what will happen--but if JPI is wise and prudent,
they'll realize . . . "you should never, ever argue with a customer--you can
only lose".
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
RV-8a tail kit should be in the mail!!! ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: JimNolan <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B
>
>
>>
>> After a few discussions with other folks, I've decided against
the
>> "no-JPI" buttons. I'd love to see every one wearing one, but something
like
>> that coming from a single individual is likely to draw yet another law
suit
>> from JPI. I'd rather spend my money helping Matt than spreading the
>> conflagration.
>
>My Opinion:
>
> I sit here reading the E-mail from the RV-List every day. If I don't
clear the
>messages each day they tend to overwhelm my computer. It's become a daily
>ritual to read the e-mail from the RV-List. Everyone can send their opinion
to
>the latest thread, add information that is actually helpful to each other
and
>contribute something of their own to a group that has become a family with
>a common interest. ( Building and Flying RV's ) I don't know about the rest
>of you but I'd like to meet each and every one of you some time. Even
listens
>that I have flamed, I respect each and every one of you and glad you're
here.
> Now consider how important this list is to you. What if it went away?
I'm
>all for being conservative in our approach to the JPI lawsuit if it gets
the job
>done. But, being from the coal fields of Kentucky I can say I haven't seen
>people with money defeated unless you threatened to take their money away
>from them. That's the only thing they understand.
> By only advertising for FuelScan, I'm afraid the intention of drawing
>attention to the lawsuit by JPI will be missed, especially by people that
don't
>belong to the RV-List or know anything about this lawsuit.
> Now would be a good time for some guidance from either Matronics or
>a representative for Matronics.
> I know how the miners in Harlan and Matwan got medical insurance,
decent
>wages and a better standard of living. It wasn't by hoping everything would
>work out by itself and not wanting to intimidate the mine owners.
>
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN ( Flame me now, you might not get the chance next February )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B |
I agree! Waiting to find out where I can get my N0-JPI buttons
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
**************** Snippet *****************************
>From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 14:40:29 -0600
>
>
>>
> I sit here reading the E-mail from the RV-List every day. If I
don't clear the
>messages each day they tend to overwhelm my computer. It's become a
daily
>ritual to read the e-mail from the RV-List. Everyone can send their
opinion to
>the latest thread, add information that is actually helpful to each
other and
>contribute something of their own to a group that has become a family
with
>a common interest. ( Building and Flying RV's ) I don't know about the
rest
>of you but I'd like to meet each and every one of you some time. Even
listens
>that I have flamed, I respect each and every one of you and glad you're
here.
> Now consider how important this list is to you. What if it went
away? I'm
>all for being conservative in our approach to the JPI lawsuit if it
gets the job
>done. But, being from the coal fields of Kentucky I can say I haven't
seen
>people with money defeated unless you threatened to take their money
away
>from them. That's the only thing they understand.
> By only advertising for FuelScan, I'm afraid the intention of
drawing
>attention to the lawsuit by JPI will be missed, especially by people
that don't
>belong to the RV-List or know anything about this lawsuit.
> Now would be a good time for some guidance from either Matronics
or
>a representative for Matronics.
> I know how the miners in Harlan and Matwan got medical insurance,
decent
>wages and a better standard of living. It wasn't by hoping everything
would
>work out by itself and not wanting to intimidate the mine owners.
>
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN ( Flame me now, you might not get the chance next February )
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Avemco Insurance |
I just got the latest issue of Kitplanes magazine. It has an article written
by an attorney regarding Avemco's not paying for damages, nor defending the
"insured" who was sued as a result of an incident. The basis was that the
builder had changed his fuel system from what it was during the
airworthiness inspection, then, ultimately, restored it to the original
configuration PRIOR to the accident....Avemco got a court ruling that they
didn't have to pay nor defend their "insured!"
As an Avemco "insured" I am certainly going to go shopping when my policy
(for whatever it may or may not be worth) expires.
There was some interesting comments regarding Avemco on the rv site a few
months back. See the archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
Von,
You may want to check out the Maintenance Articles on "AVWEB.com" re:
power management.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: n41va(at)Juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Hartzell Prop
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 07:43:36 -0800
>
>
>I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180 hp
>Lycs, what your technique is; Do you pull the rpm back a tad just after
>takeoff or do you wait til you reach altitude? When slowing down to
enter
>the pattern, as well as staying in the pattern to do touch n go's, what
>exact procedure are most of you using with regards to the
prop/throttle?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>RV-8 and lovin it!
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roadway 0 for 2 |
Tony Did you get your gages
TOM W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:flap setting indicator |
Greetings, RV-ators,
Here is a flap position visual indicator I painted on the top of my
left wing. It consists of three 1/4 inch wide by 3, 2, and 1 inch
long black paint stripes starting at the trailing edge of the inboard
top wing skin out near the overlap joint. These three different length
black stripes are spaced about 2 inches apart with the three inch stripe
on the outboard side, and the one inch stripe on the inboard side. These
three stripes serve as the flap position markers for 40, 20 and 0
degrees.
The above paint marks are on the fixed wing panel. Now, the
(apparently) VARIABLE mark is on the flap. It is painted on about
a 45 degree angle, so it appears to slide outboard along the wing
index marks as the flap is lowered. It shows the flap position along
the scale of 1, 2, and 3 inch index marks on the wing skin equating
full up, half down, and full down flap position.
It works great; just turn your gourd and eyeball the moving 45 degree
variable line against the fixed index lines to determine flap deployment
while leaning in the electric flap switch. Takes six seconds for full
flaps.
| | |
| | | | | | (WING SKIN)
| | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _
\ \ \
\ \ (FLAP)
\ FLAPS UP
HALF DOWN
FLAPS DOWN
Hope this helps.
It has worked flawlessly for me for the last 196 hours.
BTW - I converted from manual to electric flaps and love it!
Marshall Dues
RV-6, N243MD
DWH arpt (Houston area)
Katy, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | How do YOU use flaps on your RV? |
I'm not big on in-cockpit flap indicators for RVs. It's easy to see
where they are by looking out the window, indicators add complexity,
take up panel space, and can be prone to failure, and due to the nature
of the RV flaps, discrete settings between UP and DOWN are not all that
useful, compared to, say, a Cessna.
However, that is just my opinion, and I and only have about 50 hours PIC
time in RVs. Perhaps it would help the people thinking about flap
indicators if RV pilots would let on how they use flaps. If people
would fill out this little survey and email it PRIVATELY to me at
randall(at)edt.com, I will post the results.
Go ahead and use degrees or fraction, however you measure it.
----
On takeoff, I [Never/Sometimes/Always] use flaps.
If you sometimes or always use flaps, how much, typically? ___________
On downwind, I typically use a flap setting of __________.
On base, I typically use a flap setting of _________.
On final, I typically use a flap setting of __________.
I have [Manual/Electric] flaps.
If electric, I have a [Mechanical/Electronic/Flap marks/No] indicator.
If I had to do over, I would have [Manual/Electric] flaps and
a [Mechanical/Electronic/Flap markings/No] indicator.
Additional Comments?
----
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard zander" <dzan(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | FAA A/C Registry info number. |
Just for your information.
Just talked to FAA Aircraft Registry Information, advised
their number is 405-954-3136. Also if you have a number
assigned they will after 3 years send a "TRIENNIAL AIRCRAFT
REGISTRATION REPORT". They are updating their records
making sure all information contained is current, if so nothing
need be done.
Dick Zander
N747RZ
finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: flight manual (Australia) |
Hi Karl,
could you let me know if you get any responses to this as I am in the same
position?
Where abouts are you?
Thanks
Royce Craven
>
>Dear listers downunder,
>
>I'm getting very close to the final inspection(101.28) and would like to
>know how other RV6 owners have written
>up their flight and maintainance manual (or obtained a copy thereof)
>
>cheers
>Karl RV6A almost flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
Check six Mark, I heard about using the rear spar rivets to also secure
the aileron gap cover from some local builders. I back riveted the wing
upper skins and then used standard riveting technique for the lower
skins, no problems and no pop rivets. David, RV-6A fuselage, Bakersfield
CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight manual (Australia) |
In a message dated 3/10/99 3:35:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
roycec(at)ozemail.com.au writes:
<< could you let me know if you get any responses to this as I am in the same
position?
Where abouts are you?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight manual (Australia) |
In a message dated 3/10/99 3:35:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
roycec(at)ozemail.com.au writes:
<< could you let me know if you get any responses to this as I am in the same
position?
Where abouts are you?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv6 air in brake lines |
A minor warpage of the rotor on some disc brake systems can cause air to be sucked
past the seals and into the system. Rear discs on 70's corvettes were famous
for this. Air will of course rise to the highest point.
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
>
> For a computerless friend:
>
> His -6 with floor mounted pedals & dual brakes regularly gets air in the
> line between pilot & passenger right brake cylinders, causing loss of
> braking. He says that even wih careful bleeding & full reservoirs, he
> will find air in the line looped (up) over from pilot to passenger side
> after the plane sits for several days. I haven't seen the installation;
> just trying to relay his words. Brakes work ok after bleeding. I assume
> he isn't seeing any leaking fluid.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flush rivet set |
>
>I started riveting my HS last night after ripping open the box from
>Avery
>and extracting the flush swivel rivet set. I used Scott McDaniels
>idea with
>the electricians tape and it worked great! Definately worth the money
>IMHO.
>
>Doug Hormann
>RV-6
>Hillsboro, OR
>
-
What I usually recommend is clear plastic packing tape. It is quite
tough and works well for any kind of rivet set. Get the good quality 3M
stuff. It is thicker (lasts longer) and doesn't tear as easily (easier
to remove when you need to change it).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
>I would like to ask those of you who have Constant Speed props & 180
>hp
>Lycs, what your technique is; Do you pull the rpm back a tad just
>after
>takeoff or do you wait til you reach altitude?
-
Von,
With the company planes we all make it a practice to make a slight rpm
reduction after establishing a good positive rate of climb.
This is done assuming you have options at the time for a forced landing
since history has shown that engine failures sometimes occur at the
moment of first power change.
Making an RPM reduction is very good manners for keeping others within
earshot on the ground happy with you. Particularly if you are operating
from an airport that has noise complaint problems. An RPM reduction just
to 2600 RPM can significantly effect the noise someone on the ground
hears.
I'm sure we all agree that we need to do all we can to promote sport
aviation, not make others irritated with it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
>
>Well lucky,
> I'll take a guess. I believe there's a requirement for flaps
>to
>have
>a position indicator in FAR 43. I further believe that many of us on
>the
>list are trying to build, as closely as possible, to FAR 43.;
-
I believe a number of Beechcraft products over the years have been
certified with nothing more than marks on the wings.
Builders should do what ever they feel they need for their own RV, but I
can guaranty that the majority of RV pilots will never look at a flap
indicator (of any type) in there own RV after they get a 100 hours or so.
Remember, you will have done the layout and locating of all the
important controls, switches, etc. and for most RV owners it will likely
be the only airplane they fly (which means you become "very" familiar
with your airplane).
The biggest reason that I feel it should not be made into a big issue is
that the performance availed by an RV is such that if you don't even use
any flaps for a landing you would still likely only use twice the amount
of runway that you normally might (Oh darn, I used 1500 ft. of the 4000
ft. available instead of 750 ft.)
Now if you are planning to fly lot's of instrument approaches or
something, it may be good to have a way to set specific flap deflections
, but for most RV pilots... just fly the approach. If you need a little
more flaps - add a little more. If you don't, then don't. You will get
to know your RV very well and this will become second nature.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | New GPS antenna info |
Greetings to all,
I now have a flyer on my newest product. An affordable, but excellent
GPS antenna. This antenna is a very small antenna that is designed to be
installed through a skin. It would be a most excellent antenna to mount
on the glare shield. It is small enough that it should not be noticed
and it is black to make it even more invisible. It can also be installed
outside of the canopy if you desire. You must see this item.
If you would like the new flyer on this item or any other of my
products, which include heated pitot tubes, mount kits for heated pitot
tubes, an alternative electric elevator trim tab system, ToolKey (an
attractive key fob tool for opening gas caps with your RV model laser
cut in the head), custom made to length RF coax with any RF connector
you need, ELT's, and Altitude encoders. All these items are priced at
VERY competitive prices.
The best way for me to get my information to you is to use the US Mail,
so please provide a mailing address.
Gretz Aero
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811 (evenings or weekends)
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 air in brake lines |
Hi computerless,
If air gets in, fluid must go out. DOT3 can evaporate so that it does not seem
to be leaking. Regular aviation stuff (606?) leaves a very sticky mess.
Should really ask if both left and right hoses are affected.
Except for the reservoir there are two separate hydraulic systems, of course.
If only one line is affected, I'd first suspect the connections in the loop of
Nyloflo if the plane is new. If the plane is old and the air is new, I'd
suspect the pilot side master cylinder unless the copilot does most of the
braking.
Gotta do something about that assumption, tho.
hal
> He says that even wih careful bleeding & full reservoirs, he
> will find air in the line looped (up) over from pilot to passenger side
> after the plane sits for several days. I haven't seen the installation;
> just trying to relay his words. Brakes work ok after bleeding. I assume
> he isn't seeing any leaking fluid.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulley size |
I am involved in the manufacturing of these pulleys. We can make them to any
diameter you want. To give you best price however, we need to make them in lot
sizes of 20 minimum.It's not just a matter of turning down a larger one to
make a smaller one, we use smaller bar stock to begin with.
If you are interested e mail me or call me at Alloy Cutting 1 650 363
1601... redwood city calif .
Markvn(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight manual (Australia) |
> Hi Karl,
> could you let me know if you get any responses to this as I am in the same
> position?
> Where abouts are you?
>
> Thanks
>
> Royce Craven
>
>>
>>I'm getting very close to the final inspection(101.28) and would like to
>>know how other RV6 owners have written
>>up their flight and maintainance manual (or obtained a copy thereof)
>>
>>cheers
>>Karl RV6A almost flying
>>
>>
>
> I haven't seen any responses, but Scott Gesele posted a copy of his POH
somewhere. I lost the URL but I have a copy in MS Word format if anybody
wants it let me know off list and I'll forward a copy
James Freeman
RV-8 tail (ready to order QB--after April 15 ;-))
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do YOU use flaps on your RV? |
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I'm not big on in-cockpit flap indicators for RVs. It's easy to see
>where they are by looking out the window, indicators add complexity,
>take up panel space, and can be prone to failure, and due to the
>nature
>of the RV flaps, discrete settings between UP and DOWN are not all
>that
>useful, compared to, say, a Cessna.
>
>However, that is just my opinion, and I and only have about 50 hours
>PIC
>time in RVs. Perhaps it would help the people thinking about flap
>indicators if RV pilots would let on how they use flaps. If people
>would fill out this little survey and email it PRIVATELY to me at
>randall(at)edt.com, I will post the results.
>
>Go ahead and use degrees or fraction, however you measure it.
>
>----
>
>On takeoff, I [Never/] use flaps.
>
>If you sometimes or always use flaps, how much, typically?
>___________
>
>On downwind, I typically use a flap setting of _10 degrees_________.
>
>On base, I typically use a flap setting of __25 degrees_______.
>
>On final, I typically use a flap setting of _40 degrees_________.
>
>I have [l/Electric] flaps.
>
>If electric, I have a [/No] indicator.
>
>If I had to do over, I would have [/Electric] flaps and
>a [/No] indicator.
>
>Additional Comments?
>
>----A flap indicator is useless on an RV in my opinion. After just a few
flights, you know just by looking where they should be. Von Alexander
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | flight manual (Australia) |
>
> >>up their flight and maintainance manual...
> > I haven't seen any responses, but Scott Gesele
> posted a copy of his POH somewhere. I lost the
> URL but I have a copy in MS Word format if anybody...
Check out http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm (page down for a special
suprise) and then click on "Information and Resources for RV Builders".
I have POH's and checklists by John Kitz, Scott Gesele, and Gary Van
Remortel.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:flap setting indicator |
I plan to install a fuel level sender on the flap mech. and drive a fuel
gauge that has different dial markings. should be very simple, with not
much weight and can be all contained in the fuse. not my idea but I cannot
remember where I'd seen it.
Capt. Steven DiNieri
RV-6A NF,NY
Wings in the works
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew dumbell w/technology plus <andrew(at)techpls.com> |
Hi guys.
I'm new to the list and to RV's so if my questions are less than intelligent
please educate me.
I am going to look at an RV6A on Friday this week.
Can you give me any tips re: construction quality, specific items to check
for and general things to watch out for.
Also, have any of you heard of a guy is South Dakota named Lubtke that
builds RV's and what is his reputation?
Thanks
Andrew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell) |
| Subject: | Aileron Problem / Question |
Greetings All,
After drilling the aileron skin to skeleton, then disassenbly to deburr
& c-sink, I found that the bottom of the spar bowed while drilling so that
now the rivet line is bowed on it and the holes in the centeral area are
too close to the edge of the flange. Everything else looks good, and the
aileron appears to be flat and untwisted. Since these holes are 1.5 apart,
could I drill several new holes in between with proper edge distance as a
solution?? I also thought about gluing a doubler to it which would also get
riveted and conceiveably restore its strength. Or - do I need to order a
new spar and fit it to the other components.
This is the second one - the first was fine, I did everything the same
(or so I thought!)
Your helpful advice would be most appreciated.
David Wentzell, RV6 Wings
Racine, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
For those of you that have not heard, AVEMCO has been sold to a company from
Houston and they will go to a boiler-room operation to sell their product. Be
careful, good luck and beware. Of customers will be taken to the cleaners.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Problem / Question |
<< Greetings All,
After drilling the aileron skin to skeleton, then disassenbly to deburr
& c-sink, I found that the bottom of the spar bowed while drilling so that
now the rivet line is bowed on it and the holes in the centeral area are
too close to the edge of the flange. Everything else looks good, and the
aileron appears to be flat and untwisted. Since these holes are 1.5 apart,
could I drill several new holes in between with proper edge distance as a
solution?? I also thought about gluing a doubler to it which would also get
riveted and conceiveably restore its strength. Or - do I need to order a
new spar and fit it to the other components.
This is the second one - the first was fine, I did everything the same
(or so I thought!)
Your helpful advice would be most appreciated.
David Wentzell, RV6 Wings
Racine, WI >>
You're not the first! I am the proud owner of 3 ailerons because of the very
problem you had (I have rationalized that the *spare* will be great for paint
trials). If I had it to do over, I'd just order a new spar.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
I'm posting this for a low budget, Pitts builder nearby. Does anyone have
a low-cost exhaust system for sale that will fit a Lycoming O-320? If so,
contact me off-list at: bskinr(at)trib.com
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Rv6A Purchase |
>
>Hi guys.
>
>I'm new to the list and to RV's so if my questions are less than intelligent
>please educate me.
>I am going to look at an RV6A on Friday this week.
>
>Can you give me any tips re: construction quality, specific items to check
>for and general things to watch out for.
>
>Also, have any of you heard of a guy is South Dakota named Lubtke that
>builds RV's and what is his reputation?
>
>Thanks
>
>Andrew
>
The obvious is that you shouldn't let a great paint job blind you to
manufacturing faults. Look for rivets that are flush to the surface
and not 'proud'. You shouldn't be able to catch your fingernail on
the rivet. I've seen rivets that have at least a 1/64" of gap between
the rivet and the skin; not good at all.
Check the tires for abnormal wear. If the landing gear is not aligned
properly the tires will wear abnormally. This is difficult to fix.
Check the weight and balance. The RV-6 and RV-6A tend to have aft CG
problems. It's not a real big problem but be aware of it.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
In a message dated 3/10/99 5:45:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com writes:
<<....history has shown that engine failures sometimes occur at the
moment of first power change. >>
I am uncertain as to the truth of this assertion. This issue was discussed a
while back in TBO Advisor and dismissed due to lack of credible evidence.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:flap setting indicator |
It seems my ASCII graphics illustration got misaligned, so am resending.
"Marshall M. Dues" wrote:
>
> Greetings, RV-ators,
>
> Here is a flap position visual indicator I painted on the top of my
> left wing. It consists of three 1/4 inch wide by 3, 2, and 1 inch
> long black paint stripes starting at the trailing edge of the inboard
> top wing skin out near the overlap joint. These three different length
> black stripes are spaced about 2 inches apart with the three inch stripe
> on the outboard side, and the one inch stripe on the inboard side. These
> three stripes serve as the flap position markers for 40, 20 and 0
> degrees.
>
> The above paint marks are on the fixed wing panel. Now, the
> (apparently) VARIABLE mark is on the flap. It is painted on about
> a 45 degree angle, so it appears to slide outboard along the wing
> index marks as the flap is lowered. It shows the flap position along
> the scale of 1, 2, and 3 inch index marks on the wing skin equating
> full up, half down, and full down flap position.
>
> It works great; just turn your gourd and eyeball the moving 45 degree
> variable line against the fixed index lines to determine flap deployment
> while leaning in the electric flap switch. Takes six seconds for full
> flaps.
>
> | | |
> | | | | | | (WING SKIN)
> | | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _
> \ \ \
> \ \ (FLAP)
> \ FLAPS UP
> HALF DOWN
> FLAPS DOWN
>
> Hope this helps.
> It has worked flawlessly for me for the last 196 hours.
> BTW - I converted from manual to electric flaps and love it!
>
> Marshall Dues
> RV-6, N243MD
> DWH arpt (Houston area)
> Katy, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan VanGrunsven" <stanvan(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 air in brake lines |
Charlie wrote:
>> His -6 with floor mounted pedals & dual brakes regularly gets air in the
>> line between pilot & passenger right brake cylinders, causing loss of
>> braking. He says that even wih careful bleeding & full reservoirs, he
>> will find air in the line looped (up) over from pilot to passenger side
>> after the plane sits for several days. I haven't seen the installation;
>> just trying to relay his words. Brakes work ok after bleeding. I assume
>> he isn't seeing any leaking fluid.
>
>
Jerry and I fought this for 3 weekends! We found that the fluid coming into
the "back side" of the pilots depressed foot brake pistons comes from the
reservoir only after it has unseated the passenger brake cylinder
plunger(s). When this vacuum is pulled, the "O" ring at the top, on the
shaft, must seal perfectly or air will be sucked past and into the system
with no loss of fluid. We had one very old brand "C" cyl. set and one new
brand "C" set. Both sets had very rough plunger shafts and needed polishing
and new "O" rings and are now leaking again in much less than a year of
service. We will likely change the cylinders at annual and get a different
brand.
Stan Van Grunsven
RV-6A 164VG 200 hrs and counting
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do YOU use flaps on your RV? |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I'm not big on in-cockpit flap indicators for RVs. It's easy to see
> where they are by looking out the window, indicators add complexity,
> take up panel space, and can be prone to failure, and due to the nature
> of the RV flaps, discrete settings between UP and DOWN are not all that
> useful, compared to, say, a Cessna.
>
> However, that is just my opinion, and I and only have about 50 hours PIC
> time in RVs. Perhaps it would help the people thinking about flap
> indicators if RV pilots would let on how they use flaps. If people
> would fill out this little survey and email it PRIVATELY to me at
> randall(at)edt.com, I will post the results.
>
> Go ahead and use degrees or fraction, however you measure it.
>
> ----
>
> On takeoff, I [Never/Sometimes/Always] use flaps. NEVER
>
> If you sometimes or always use flaps, how much, typically? ___________
>
> On downwind, I typically use a flap setting of 5 DEG (TO INDUCE DRAG).
>
> On base, I typically use a flap setting of 1/2 (20 DEGREES).
>
> On final, I typically use a flap setting of FULL DOWN (40 DEGREES).
>
> I have [Manual/Electric] flaps. CONVERTED TO ELECTRIC.
>
> If electric, I have FLAP MARKINGS ON WING AND FLAP.
>
> If I had to do over, I would have ELECTRIC flaps and
> a LEFT WING SET OF MARKS as an indicator.
>
> Additional Comments? NO FLAP HANDLE IN THE WAY OF THE THROTTLE ON
AN UNANTICIPATED GO-AROUND WITH ELECTRIC FLAP SYSTEM. ALSO,
IT ONLY TAKES SIX SECONDS FROM FULL UP TO FULL DOWN.
>
> ----
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
> randall(at)edt.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Disposition-Notification-To: "Marshall M. Dues" <mmdues@hal-pc.org>
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:flap setting indicator |
"Marshall M. Dues" wrote:
It seems my ASCII graphics illustration got misaligned, so am
resending.
>
> "Marshall M. Dues" wrote:
> >
> > Greetings, RV-ators,
> >
> > Here is a flap position visual indicator I painted on the top of my
> > left wing. It consists of three 1/4 inch wide by 3, 2, and 1 inch
> > long black paint stripes starting at the trailing edge of the inboard
> > top wing skin out near the overlap joint. These three different length
> > black stripes are spaced about 2 inches apart with the three inch stripe
> > on the outboard side, and the one inch stripe on the inboard side. These
> > three stripes serve as the flap position markers for 40, 20 and 0
> > degrees.
> >
> > The above paint marks are on the fixed wing panel. Now, the
> > (apparently) VARIABLE mark is on the flap. It is painted on about
> > a 45 degree angle, so it appears to slide outboard along the wing
> > index marks as the flap is lowered. It shows the flap position along
> > the scale of 1, 2, and 3 inch index marks on the wing skin equating
> > full up, half down, and full down flap position.
> >
> > It works great; just turn your gourd and eyeball the moving 45 degree
> > variable line against the fixed index lines to determine flap deployment
> > while leaning in the electric flap switch. Takes six seconds for full
> > flaps.
> >
> > | | |
> > | | | | | | (WING SKIN)
> > | | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _ | | |_ _ _ _
> > \ \ \
> > \ \ (FLAP)
> > \ FLAPS UP
> > HALF DOWN
> > FLAPS DOWN
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> > It has worked flawlessly for me for the last 196 hours.
> > BTW - I converted from manual to electric flaps and love it!
> >
> > Marshall Dues
> > RV-6, N243MD
> > DWH arpt (Houston area)
> > Katy, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gamma Sigma Pvt Ltd <gammasig(at)pci.co.zw> |
| Subject: | Re: flight manual (Australia) |
HI YOU GUYS,
I ALSO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, PLEASE ADVISE WHEN YOU RECEIVE THE INFO YOUR
LOOKING FOR.
GRAHAM LEATHES - RV6 IN ZIMBABWE
>Hi Karl,
>could you let me know if you get any responses to this as I am in the same
>position?
>Where abouts are you?
>
>Thanks
>
>Royce Craven
>
>>
>>Dear listers downunder,
>>
>>I'm getting very close to the final inspection(101.28) and would like to
>>know how other RV6 owners have written
>>up their flight and maintainance manual (or obtained a copy thereof)
>>
>>cheers
>>Karl RV6A almost flying
>>
>>
>
>
G. S. LEATHES
Gamma Sigma Pvt Ltd
e-mail: gammasig(at)pci.co.zw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing center section bolt holes misaligned - the fix |
Well, Chris, good to hear that the fix sounds fairly simple, even if
brutal! Onward!
Ed
Chris Browne wrote:
>
>
> I got the fix for this problem from from Van today. Apparently, it is
> very common but there is no mention of it in the manual so I thought I
> would post it. There was an attachment included with a drawing which I
> did not forward, but here is the text:
>
> [When the RV-6/6A fuselage is built, a false spar is used to maintain
> the alignment between the bolt holes on the F-604A and F-604B bulkhead
> sides. When this support is removed, it is common for the holes to
> shift slightly, particularly on the F-604B bulkhead sides. This
> apparent mis-alignment has caused a few builders, particularly those
> with QuickBuild kits, some concern.
>
> Fortunately, the problem is easy to fix. Usually, the holes in the
> free floating F-604B bulkhead sides (DWG 15) relax slightly inboard of
> the holes in the rigid F-604A on removal of the false spar. The
> solution is to spread the fuselage slightly until the holes re-align.
>
> First insert the wing spars in the fuselage and fix their location
> relative to the F-604A with 3-4 bolts near the center of the fuselage.
> Then place a small bottle jack on its side on the floor of the
> fuselage. Use lengths of 2x2 or 2x4 lumber to reach between the jack
> and the lower longerons at the F-655 gusset (see DWG 31.) CAREFULLY use
> the jack to open the fuselage until the holes are re-alignedusually
> this is no more than 3/16.
>
> While the fuselage sides are held in alignment, use some drift pins
> (hardware store bolts with the tip ground to a bullet point) in a couple
> of the holes to establish the alignment between the F-604B and the spar
> before inserting the actual wing installation bolts. Once the bolts are
> in place the jack can be removed.]
>
> Personal note: If anyone wants the document with the drawing, let me
> know and I will E-mail it. A fellow builder looked at the bulkhead with
> me and thought of trying to figure out a way to push the it back into
> alignment, but we both thought the jack idea was to brutal.
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A Atlanta
> 12 ton bottle jack ready to go - think that'll do it? (yikes!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do YOU use flaps on your RV? |
WHAT!? These things have flaps??? I've never owned a plane with flaps. Maybe
I'll never use them? Actually, I guess I prefer slips as you have infinite
control of how much and you can quit at any time...once the flaps are on, you
generally have to keep them on. I've always thought that slips or spoilers are
more convenient, but you can't use either of these on takeoff very well :)
Very interesting thread!
Scott A. Littfin
RV4 in work
"Marshall M. Dues" wrote:
>
> Randall Henderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm not big on in-cockpit flap indicators for RVs. It's easy to see
> > where they are by looking out the window, indicators add complexity,
> > take up panel space, and can be prone to failure, and due to the nature
> > of the RV flaps, discrete settings between UP and DOWN are not all that
> > useful, compared to, say, a Cessna.
> >
> > However, that is just my opinion, and I and only have about 50 hours PIC
> > time in RVs. Perhaps it would help the people thinking about flap
> > indicators if RV pilots would let on how they use flaps. If people
> > would fill out this little survey and email it PRIVATELY to me at
> > randall(at)edt.com, I will post the results.
> >
> > Go ahead and use degrees or fraction, however you measure it.
> >
> > ----
> >
> > On takeoff, I [Never/Sometimes/Always] use flaps. NEVER
> >
> > If you sometimes or always use flaps, how much, typically? ___________
> >
> > On downwind, I typically use a flap setting of 5 DEG (TO INDUCE DRAG).
> >
> > On base, I typically use a flap setting of 1/2 (20 DEGREES).
> >
> > On final, I typically use a flap setting of FULL DOWN (40 DEGREES).
> >
> > I have [Manual/Electric] flaps. CONVERTED TO ELECTRIC.
> >
> > If electric, I have FLAP MARKINGS ON WING AND FLAP.
> >
> > If I had to do over, I would have ELECTRIC flaps and
> > a LEFT WING SET OF MARKS as an indicator.
> >
> > Additional Comments? NO FLAP HANDLE IN THE WAY OF THE THROTTLE ON
> AN UNANTICIPATED GO-AROUND WITH ELECTRIC FLAP SYSTEM. ALSO,
> IT ONLY TAKES SIX SECONDS FROM FULL UP TO FULL DOWN.
> >
> > ----
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> > randall(at)edt.com
> >
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How do YOU use flaps on your RV? |
For the last 40 years and 19000 hrs I have been of the impression that you
really have two flap settings to be concerned with.
1---Takeoff
2---Landing
I have always considered more than 1/2 flaps should be considered as drag.
Up to 1/2 the available flaps on an aircraft should be considered extra lift
so that you can get the aircraft airborne from less runway, such as soft
field/short field. RVs really hop off pretty fast and probably dont need flaps
for Takeoff.
For landing using more than 1/2 flaps will make the aircraft more stable on
approach, allow for a lower approach speed, thereby resulting in a shorter
landing rollout.
As for indication of a given flap setting, why not just mark the flap radius
so that it can be seen from the cockpit, and all RV flaps are visible from the
cockpit
even RV 6s, and go fly.
I will have electric flaps on my bird and will have an interrupter switch at
the 1/2 position just to give me max lift before I get to max drag.
The end result will be a local flying, slow flight, max lift position and then
the full flaps final approach and landing position.
888LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
As a rule,,,The MP should never be allowed to be much higher than the RPM.
For T/O Its everything forward.
At a safe altitude, 1000 ft or so, its throttle back to top of the green
first and then prop back to top of the green, unless you have predetermined
settings.
When setting up for approach its prop forward first and then throttle adjusted
as needed. If yu go around or do a touch and go with the prop lever less than
full forward you may do damage to the engine. Not only that, but a flat prop
is a great air brake resulting a shorter landing roll. This rule really
applies to big big engines and props.
888LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
>
>I opted to have Bart omit the Katana Alternator and purchase a 35 amp unit
>from Van's. I then purchased a Voltage Regulator with integral Crowbar from
>Aerolectric Connection.
>
I seem to recall that the alternator Van sells has
a built in regulator . . . is this still true?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
< When deprived of facts, >
< our fantasies are generally >
< much worse than reality. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
>Since I'm buying my engine from Bart, I think I may have him leave the
>alternator off, and I'll source one without internal regulation locally.
>Or, I'm sure Bob would be willing to offer advice on doing a
>"regulatorectomy" on the standard alternator Bart supplies. I know Bob
>has "snipped" many an alternator in his day. ;)
I have indeed . . . but got out of the "business" as it
was pretty time consuming. The worst part was that some
builders sent me a grease and mud soaked salvage yard
alternator of questionable character . . . after I opened
the critter up and modified it, I was somewhat responsable
for future performance . . . not much future in that.
Most alternator shops can do the modification for you.
Prices relayed to me are in the $30-50 range to open it
up, remove regulator, rewire, reassemble and test.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
< When deprived of facts, >
< our fantasies are generally >
< much worse than reality. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)vvm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv6A Purchase |
>I am going to look at an RV6A on Friday this week.
>Andrew
Hi Andy,
First get an rv builder, or a metal airplane builder, or an A&E or IA to go
with you. Don't buy until you have had a prepurchase inspection by a
seasoned mechanic, preferably who is familiar with metal home built aircraft.
Suggested reading:
http://www.avweb.com/articles/prepurch.html
Also other than Friday get an experienced RV owner to fly the aircraft. The
RV is a different bird than the 150 or 172, Much more FUN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dimeo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
I admit I haven't looked but I'd be surprised that there was much of a
requirement in part 43 for a flap setting indicator. I fly a BE55 Baron
regularly and the flap setting indicator is to look out the window. There IS a
red light on the flap indicator to indicate full down and green one for full up
but inbetween is anyone's guess.
The venerable C150 has an indicator buried in the window post that almost never
works so you always have to look out to check that the flaps are where you put
them. The only plane I fly that I think HAS to have a flap indicator is a C310.
You can't see the flaps at all!
Anyway MTC.
Regards,
Bob
RV8 #423 Still working on wings!
lm4(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> Well lucky,
> I'll take a guess. I believe there's a requirement for flaps to
> have
> a position indicator in FAR 43. I further believe that many of us on the
> list are trying to build, as closely as possible, to FAR 43.; even though
> we are not required to.
> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
> >Surely a detented flap slider is available. Even the lowly cessna 152
> has a detented flap handle with an adjacent actual flap location marker.
>
> >What am I missing here?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hand rivet squeezer for sale |
Louis,
Just a thought for your consideration and for builders who are just
getting under way with their projects:
Having two rivet squeezers is VERY convenient. Many times you will be
dimpling and squeezing repetitively in the same work session. I really
enjoyed having the dimple dies in one squeezer, and the flat rivet set
in the other. This saves a great deal of time that would otherwise be
spent changing dies.
If the funds allow, new builders may want to investigate purchasing a
second squeezer, preferably with a different size yoke.
Louis, carefully consider whether or not you really want to sell your
rivet squeezer at this time.
Or....new builders, buy Louis's set before he changes his mind....it is
a great deal!
Sam Buchanan (runnin' outa stuff to do on the RV6)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
"Cappucci, Louis" wrote:
>
>
> i am selling my hand squeezer. this is the tatco model, with the 3" yoke. it
> is in excellent condition, having been purchased only a few months ago. (i
> am selling it because i now have a pneumatic squeezer.)
>
> i encourage you to read the review of this product in the RV Journal. here's
> the link:
> http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tatco.html
>
> i will throw in a 6-piece squeezer set (4 universal head and 2 flat sets)
> and pay for the shipping. i am asking $120 for the package. if you just
> ordered your empennage kit, this could be a great deal for you, since
> quality used tools are so hard to find. for the price of the smaller 1.5"
> squeezer, you can have double the reach with the 3" which will be very
> handy, plus you get the squeezer sets.
>
> if you're interested, please reply off-line. to the rest of the list, i
> apologize for using the bandwidth.
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> louis.cappucci(at)gs.com
> rv-6a qb
> mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Walker" <fwalker(at)insurquote.com> |
yesterday I was at a friends machine shop dropping off the head for my MGB, and
while there I asked if they ever ran across any airplane motors. my friend lead
me to the back where he stores oddball stuff and showed me two lycomings and a
contenial i asked him what he wanted for them. he said a couple hundred bucks
and i can haul away all three.
I didn't have time to look closely but am going back next week. the lycomings
are four cylinders, and the continental is a six cylinder. being new to this, (I
just sent for my tail kit and have a long way to go) what should i look for when
i go back?
--frank RV6, shop ready waiting for parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts. These bolts
are to secure my oil cooler to the rear engine baffle. The length is
dictated by the size of the oil cooler and the drilled head by my perception
that these bolts should be safety wired. It is the drilled head that seems
to make them tough to find.
I've tried all the suppliers that I can think of, including using the yeller
pages with no luck. Other people must have used bolts like this. If not,
how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where did
you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool and
doing it myself.
Thanks.
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Replacing Spark Plug Leads |
I'd appreciate some advice or replacing spark plug leads on my O-320 E2D
with Slick model 4251R and 4050 mags.
1) Is this as simple a job as taking the old spark plug leads off and being
able to easily refit the new ones? Or are some special tools, skills or
procedures required that take it beyond what a simple person might do? If
it is a little more complicated, where might I get information on how to do
it? I do know aircraft engine mechanics locally, which is my fallback plan.
2) What criteria would one use to decide on replacing the leads beyond
obvious misfiring? I realize no one can analyse my engine over the internet
but I'd like to learn what to look out for. One set of my leads looks and
feels sound but old. The other set has two 1/8" dia. nicks in the cloth
sheath and ground shielding.
Thanks
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
><<....history has shown that engine failures sometimes occur at the
> moment of first power change. >>
>
>I am uncertain as to the truth of this assertion. This issue was discussed a
>while back in TBO Advisor and dismissed due to lack of credible evidence.
>-GV
GV,
I read that article, as well. But, since it happened to me, I always
leave full power in until I reach a "safe" altitude.
I rented an Archer several years ago to take my wife and two girls to OSH.
On the way back from OSH, after having fueled at Mapleton, Iowa, I took off
and headed west. When I got to cruising altitude, I went to pull the power
back. The second I reduced power, the airplane began shaking violently.
Couldn't read any of the gauges. If fact, I'm surprised any of the needles
stayed on. I reduced power and checked everything-mags., carb heat,
mixture, etc. I ended up gliding back to Mapleton at idle power. (I
thought it would be better for the family's peace of mind to have the engine
making some noise.)
After a few "S" turns and slips, we made an uneventful landing, went to
the hotel where Bob had a couple of margaritas, got a room and the next day,
rode the Greyhound home (12 hours). Peggy was much less nervous flying
after this incident. She always thought that, when the engine quit, you
were doomed. After the gliding demo, she was a much better passenger.
The cause of the problem? The engine swallowed about 1/2 of an exhaust
valve. The FBO sent a mechanic down and replaced the cylinder.
Unfortunately, they didn't check the other cylinders. That piece of exhaust
valve had fractured and gone into all of the cylinders and made quite a mess.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
Ron, if all else fails you might want to consider using metal lock nuts
designed for high temp environments such as under the cowl (Do not use
the standard ones with nylon inserts). Metal lock nuts FWF.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
taborek wrote:
>
>
> I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts. These bolts
> are to secure my oil cooler to the rear engine baffle. The length is
> dictated by the size of the oil cooler and the drilled head by my perception
> that these bolts should be safety wired. It is the drilled head that seems
> to make them tough to find.
>
> I've tried all the suppliers that I can think of, including using the yeller
> pages with no luck. Other people must have used bolts like this. If not,
> how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where did
> you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool and
> doing it myself.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< he said a couple hundred bucks
and i can haul away all three.
I didn't have time to look closely but am going back next week. the lycomings
are four cylinders, and the continental is a six cylinder. being new to this,
(I
just sent for my tail kit and have a long way to go) what should i look for
when
i go back?
--frank RV6, shop ready waiting for parts
>>
Frank,
Tell the man you surely dont know what you will do with that junk
but give him the $200.00 anyway. Unless they are shot full of holes and
covered under an inch of rust you most likely cant loose. Not knowing what
they are its hard to say what the core values are but its alot more than what
you will be paying. Pay the man the money get them home and ask questions
later, before someone else finds out.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Spark Plug Leads |
Ron,
If you feel like your leads are worn out and you dont feel good about
them by all means replace them.
It is a fairly simple task. The only real worry is making sure the square or
round cap on the back of the mag is clocked correctly and that the right leads
go to the right plugs. The lycoming overhaul manual shows the routing in
simple detail. Or you can simply label the leads at the plug end and chase it
down to the cover end label them there and make sure you install the new ones
the same way.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
Aerosport along with the voltage regulator Bob sell's.
ALTERNATOR KIT Rebuilt units develop 35 ampsenough for
most RVs. Kit includes mounting brackets for boss mount, support arm,
connector plug and mounting hardware. No belt or voltage regulator.
P/N ES ALTERNATOR 35A KIT $150.00
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crowbar protection
>
>>
>>I opted to have Bart omit the Katana Alternator and purchase a 35 amp unit
>>from Van's. I then purchased a Voltage Regulator with integral Crowbar
from
>>Aerolectric Connection.
>>
>
> I seem to recall that the alternator Van sells has
> a built in regulator . . . is this still true?
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
> < When deprived of facts, >
> < our fantasies are generally >
> < much worse than reality. >
> ================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | POSTMASTER.3(at)micro.honeywell.com (IL50/GATE/POSTMASTER) |
FROM: IL50/GATE/POSTMASTER
TIME: 11:21
SUBJECT: Mail failure
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[021] Message was not delivered due to missing routing file.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ron, if all else fails you might want to consider using metal lock nuts
designed for high temp environments such as under the cowl (Do not use
the standard ones with nylon inserts). Metal lock nuts FWF.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
taborek wrote:
> > I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts. These bolts
> are to secure my oil cooler to the rear engine baffle. The length is
> dictated by the size of the oil cooler and the drilled head by my perception
> that these bolts should be safety wired. It is the drilled head that seems
> to make them tough to find.
> > I've tried all the suppliers that I can think of, including using the yeller
> pages with no luck. Other people must have used bolts like this. If not,
> how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where did
> you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool and
> doing it myself.
> > Thanks.
> > Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Vap" <kevin(at)vap.org> |
"Tom Redfield - RMRV" ,
"Steven Spruell - HBAR" ,
"Rob Huntsinger - RV Pudget Sound" ,
"Randy Lervold - VAF Home Wing" ,
"Mitch Faatz - BARV" ,
"Kevin Lowery - VAF Tri State Wing" ,
"Kate - VAF MI Wing" ,
"Doug Weiler - VAF MN Wing" ,
"Doug Reeves - VAFNTW" ,
"Terrance Jantzi - VAF Ontario Wing"
| Subject: | KC RVators Fly-In |
"The Kansas City RVators will be having a Fly-in on May 8th, 1999 at 69KS"
With the knowledge that the usual Boone IA RV Fly-In will not occur this
year, Walt Flynn of the KC RVators has agreed to host a Fly-In at the
private airport where he resides on the south side of the Kansas City metro
area.
The focus is RV aircraft, but all are welcome. Barbeque and the usual
comraderie will be the agenda for a fun filled day. Later in the evening,
beer will be provided for those that are staying overnight (not flying).
More activities will be announced as they are confirmed.
The airport designator is 69KS and is on the Kansas City Sectional as
"Chiles". It is located at N38 40.184' / W094 44.548 and altitude of
1050ft, which is approximately 10.3nm/175 bearing from the Johnson County
Executive Airport and VOR (identifier: OJC). The field length is 2600 feet,
and it is turf in good condition. Plan on using RWY 01 unless winds dictate
use of RWY 19. Traffic advisories will be available via radio on field.
For more airport information, see
http://www.airnav.com/cgi-bin/airport-info?69KS.
For more information, contact Walt Flynn at 913-533-2525 or John Zidek at
913-491-2944 (or email me). A website with more information will be
available by mid-March at http://www.vap.org/kcrvators/flyin.html.
Newsletter editors & webmasters: Please include this in your events section.
Thank you.
Kevin Vap
KC RVators
kevin(at)vap.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | GYROS/PANEL ANGLE |
My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
Would like advice on this.
Thanks
Wayne (spending $ on panel).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: hand rivet squeezer for sale |
>
>Louis,
>
>Just a thought for your consideration and for builders who are just
>getting under way with their projects:
>
>Having two rivet squeezers is VERY convenient. Many times you will be
>dimpling and squeezing repetitively in the same work session. I really
>enjoyed having the dimple dies in one squeezer, and the flat rivet set
>in the other. This saves a great deal of time that would otherwise be
>spent changing dies.
>Sam Buchanan (runnin' outa stuff to do on the RV6)
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
I agree with Sam. I have not 2, but 3 squeezers! My first was a cheapie
that came with a starter tool kit. Works fine but doesnt have a removable
yoke. My second is a Tatco. My third is a pneumatic. If I could only have
one it would be the Tatco (or Avery's) with standard, 3", and no-hole yoke.
I find that I use the pneumatic the least as it is awkward to fit into a
lot of places due to the bulk of the body of the squeezer. It does do a
very nice job when I use it but I wish I'd spent the $ on something else.
Just my opinion and I know many will disagree.
Mike Wills
RV-4 saving for the finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
I just received my bolts yesterday for my oil cooler. As I recall,
they were AN4-42A bolts. I drilled out the oil cooler slots
slightly and used rigid aluminum tubing between the two flanges.
I did not perceive the need for drilled bolt heads. With crimp
nuts and the extra aluminum sheet on the baffle wall, these
nuts and bolts aren't going anywhere.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
Ready for Paint
-----Original Message-----
From: taborek <taborek(at)pathcom.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler
>
>I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts. These bolts
>are to secure my oil cooler to the rear engine baffle. The length is
>dictated by the size of the oil cooler and the drilled head by my
perception
>that these bolts should be safety wired. It is the drilled head that seems
>to make them tough to find.
>
>I've tried all the suppliers that I can think of, including using the
yeller
>pages with no luck. Other people must have used bolts like this. If not,
>how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where
did
>you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool
and
>doing it myself.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
A trailer large enough that you can get it all before the owner changes his
mind.
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Walker <fwalker(at)insurquote.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: motors
>
>yesterday I was at a friends machine shop dropping off the head for my MGB,
and
>while there I asked if they ever ran across any airplane motors. my friend
lead
>me to the back where he stores oddball stuff and showed me two lycomings
and a
>contenial i asked him what he wanted for them. he said a couple hundred
bucks
>and i can haul away all three.
>I didn't have time to look closely but am going back next week. the
lycomings
>are four cylinders, and the continental is a six cylinder. being new to
this, (I
>just sent for my tail kit and have a long way to go) what should i look for
when
>i go back?
>
>--frank RV6, shop ready waiting for parts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buttons for Sun N' Fun - Plan B |
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> After a few discussions with other folks, I've decided against the
> "no-JPI" buttons. I'd love to see every one wearing one, but something like
> that coming from a single individual is likely to draw yet another law suit
> from JPI. I'd rather spend my money helping Matt than spreading the
> conflagration.
>
> So, here's plan B. How about some "Matronics FUELSCAN" buttons.
> Instead of attacking JPI we support Matt. I'm sure Matt could supply some
> artwork. I could bring a big sack of the things to Sun N' Fun to
> distribute at some RV enclave. I doubt the intent would be missed by the
> JPI folks.
>
> So, comments, opinions, flames?
>
We ought to be able to wear whatever we want. That's baloney that JPI is
going to track down a button vender for slander. My vote - Stay with
plan "A"
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6(at)mindspring.com> |
Frank Walker wrote:
> I didn't have time to look closely but am going back next week. the lycomings
> are four cylinders, and the continental is a six cylinder. being new to this,
(I
> just sent for my tail kit and have a long way to go) what should i look for when
> i go back?
>
> --frank RV6, shop ready waiting for parts
The first thing is the Manufacturer's name plate. It probably is on the
oil sump. This will give you the model # and serial number. From there
you can call lycoming to find out what you have.
Also, look them over to see why they are sitting in his back room. He
should know something about them.
That should get you started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
Why do you need drilled bolts. They aren't pivots. Lock nuts should work.
Nutplates have built in locking and Loctite works very well. So you can see
there are a lot of ways without drilled and safety wired bolts IF they
aren't pivots.
-----Original Message-----
From: taborek <taborek(at)pathcom.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 10:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler
>
>I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts. These bolts
>are to secure my oil cooler to the rear engine baffle. The length is
>dictated by the size of the oil cooler and the drilled head by my
perception
>that these bolts should be safety wired. It is the drilled head that seems
>to make them tough to find.
>
>I've tried all the suppliers that I can think of, including using the
yeller
>pages with no luck. Other people must have used bolts like this. If not,
>how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where
did
>you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool
and
>doing it myself.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | flight manual (Australia) |
You call a bus error a nice surprise???
Maybe it is our flakey server but I have gotten it twice!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE |
-----Original Message-----
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
>
>My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
>which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
>gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
>the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
>Would like advice on this.
>
Instrument shops can re-adjust the mechanism connecting the display card to
the gyro cage to adapt to a panel wich is not vertical. Installing the gyro
as is does not hurt anything but the horizon line will not be in the center
of the display in flight.
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,350hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC" <cabodijmfc(at)datasys.com.ar> |
| Subject: | RV-8 prototipe accident |
Hi, my name is Pablo, and I am starting to build my RV-8 empennage by now.
Anybody have any idea about the reasons for the wing break of the N58RV? Any
news?
I am a little worried.
Best regards,
PABLO
Argentina
________________________________________________________________________________
frank,
leave that pile of junk where it sits, it's not worth a dime. BTW, DO YOU
HAVE HIS NAME AND PHONE # MAYBE AN ADDRESS? :-)
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Problem / Question |
David M Wentzell wrote:
> Greetings All,
> After drilling the aileron skin to skeleton, then disassenbly to deburr
> & c-sink, I found that the bottom of the spar bowed while drilling so that
> now the rivet line is bowed on it and the holes in the centeral area are
> too close to the edge of the flange. Everything else looks good, and the
> aileron appears to be flat and untwisted. Since these holes are 1.5 apart,
> could I drill several new holes in between with proper edge distance as a
> solution?? I also thought about gluing a doubler to it which would also get
> riveted and conceiveably restore its strength. Or - do I need to order a
> new spar and fit it to the other components.
I made this mistake too. I did what you are contemplating, and it seems
OK. I haven't flown yet, but can't imagine how this would change the
flying properties. I put rivets in the bad holes just to fill them. Go
to <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> and follow the link to
Ailerons and Flaps for other stuff.
> This is the second one - the first was fine, I did everything the same
> (or so I thought!)
This was my *third* one... my second one had a bad twist in it.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
This is my work account. Weekend email should be
sent to me at frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz.
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | POSTMASTER.3(at)micro.honeywell.com (IL50/GATE/POSTMASTER) |
FROM: IL50/GATE/POSTMASTER
TIME: 13:22
SUBJECT: Mail failure
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[021] Message was not delivered due to missing routing file.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
>
>My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
>which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
>gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
>the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
>Would like advice on this.
>
Instrument shops can re-adjust the mechanism connecting the display card to
the gyro cage to adapt to a panel wich is not vertical. Installing the gyro
as is does not hurt anything but the horizon line will not be in the center
of the display in flight.
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,350hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
> I'd appreciate some help locating a source of AN3H-41A bolts.
Try Columbia Airmotive, (503) 665-4896. They have a lot of specialized stuff
like this. I got my coarse thread drilled-head bolts (airbox to carb) there.
> how did you mount your cooler on the baffle? If you did use them, where did
> you get them? This is my last effort before buying a head drilling tool and
> doing it myself.
I used MS21042 or NAS 679 high-temp self-locking nuts. These are pretty
widely available. You could probably get away with nylock nuts here but
I think it's prudent to stick with the high-temp nuts in the engine cpt.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Fink" <Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE |
There is a knob that adjusts the little airplane up and down in an AI,
panel tilt does not matter.
Scott
RV-6 Left Wing
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
Date: 3/11/99 10:33 AM
My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
Would like advice on this.
Thanks
Wayne (spending $ on panel).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: flap setting indicator |
> I'll take a guess. I believe there's a requirement for flaps to
> have a position indicator in FAR 43. I further believe that many
> of us on the list are trying to build, as closely as possible,
> to FAR 43.;
I searched the FARs and came up with nothing in part 43 regarding
flap indicators. I did find this in part 23:
Sec. 23.699 Wing flap position indicator.
There must be a wing flap position indicator for--
(a) Flap installations with only the retracted and fully extended position,
unless--
(1) A direct operating mechanism provides a sense of "feel" and position
(such as when a mechanical linkage is employed); or
(2) The flap position is readily determined without seriously detracting
from other piloting duties under any flight condition, day or night; and
(b) Flap installation with intermediate flap positions if--
(1) Any flap position other than retracted or fully extended is used to
show compliance with the performance requirements of this part; and
(2) The flap installation does not meet the requirements of paragraph
(a)(1) of this section.
So as I read it a flap indicator would not be required.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 air in brake lines] |
Charlie,
I had the exact same problem and it drove me crazy. It was traced to an
aluminum shaving that got into a master cylinder on the pax side. This ended
up in the o-ring on that master cylinder. I guess it was pulling air in as
the pilot side brakes were depressed. Once the master cylinder was
disassembled and cleaned, the problem disappeared.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele
N506RV - Flying
Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
For a computerless friend:
His -6 with floor mounted pedals & dual brakes regularly gets air in the
line between pilot & passenger right brake cylinders, causing loss of
braking. He says that even wih careful bleeding & full reservoirs, he
will find air in the line looped (up) over from pilot to passenger side
after the plane sits for several days. I haven't seen the installation;
just trying to relay his words. Brakes work ok after bleeding. I assume
he isn't seeing any leaking fluid.
Thanks,
Charlie
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
I would suggest using short bolts through just on one side. This is what
I have seen on production aircraft. I happen to have a picture of an
oil-cooler on a baffle with short srews (1992 Decathalon). If you'd like
to see it (jpg), email me off the list at smbr(at)digital.net
Boris Robinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE |
Not true. It doesn't hurt the gyro to be installed at an angle, but
the horizons will not line up with winged indicator.
You can order your gyro with the appropriate tilt from any of the
vendors. I seem to recall that they have certain angles that they
adjust for. (e.g. 6 degrees or 8 degrees, etc) I ordered mine
from Pacific Coast Aviation and they only charged a nominal
fee for the setup.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
Ready to Paint
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Fink <Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
>
> There is a knob that adjusts the little airplane up and down in an AI,
> panel tilt does not matter.
>
> Scott
> RV-6 Left Wing
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
>Date: 3/11/99 10:33 AM
>
>
>My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
>which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
>gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
>the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
>Would like advice on this.
>
>Thanks
>Wayne (spending $ on panel).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Esther 503-627-5217 <billiam(at)mdhost.cse.TEK.COM> |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Esther Email: billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com
Tektronix, Inc
PO Box 500 (m/s 50-153) Voice: 503 627-5217
Beaverton, OR 97077-0001 FAX: 503 627-5584
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Has anybody heard what Trimble's plans to do with
the Terra line of products?
Bill Esther
6554 Rim Rock Ct.
Salem, Ore. 97393
503-463-1169 (home)
503-627-5127 (work)
|___|
____(+)____
| |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv6A Purchase |
Hi Andrew:
If I were you I would not get serious about buying the RV unless you have a
experienced RV builder check it out with you.
A well built RV is probably the finest aircraft available in it's catagory
today.
Eustace Bowhay Flying my RV 6 since 1992 and skinning fueselage on a RV
6A
Blind Bay B.C.
----------
> From: Andrew dumbell w/technology plus <andrew(at)techpls.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rv6A Purchase
> Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 8:04 PM
>
>
> Hi guys.
>
> I'm new to the list and to RV's so if my questions are less than
intelligent
> please educate me.
> I am going to look at an RV6A on Friday this week.
>
> Can you give me any tips re: construction quality, specific items to
check
> for and general things to watch out for.
>
> Also, have any of you heard of a guy is South Dakota named Lubtke that
> builds RV's and what is his reputation?
>
> Thanks
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 air in brake lines |
Ah ha. Here is where the rv-list excels. I had the same air making
qualities in my brake system. Similiarly to Scott's problem all the
plunger shafts were scored and allowing fluid to leak out and air to be
sucked in (I think) from the passenger side. I attributed the scored
shafts to much playing with the brake pedals when they were dry during
construction. The return spring will rub and eventually score the shaft.
I ended up disassembling the cylinders and polishing on a drill press
with fine scotch brite. New o-rings installed and I haven't had a
problem since.
scott gesele wrote:
>
>
> Charlie,
>
> I had the exact same problem and it drove me crazy. It was traced to an
> aluminum shaving that got into a master cylinder on the pax side. This ended
> up in the o-ring on that master cylinder. I guess it was pulling air in as
> the pilot side brakes were depressed. Once the master cylinder was
> disassembled and cleaned, the problem disappeared.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Gesele
> N506RV - Flying
>
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 prototipe accident |
Pablo . . . Van's website has a summary on all of the tests re: the RV-8
wing. I, for one, am not worried. This thing has been tested ad nauseum
and it is more than flight worthy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC <cabodijmfc(at)datasys.com.ar>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 prototipe accident
>
>Hi, my name is Pablo, and I am starting to build my RV-8 empennage by now.
>Anybody have any idea about the reasons for the wing break of the N58RV?
Any
>news?
>I am a little worried.
>
>Best regards,
>PABLO
>Argentina
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | hand rivet squeezer for sale--SOLD |
the squeezer has been sold. thanks!
>
> i am selling my hand squeezer. this is the tatco model, with the 3" yoke.
> it
> is in excellent condition, having been purchased only a few months ago. (i
> am selling it because i now have a pneumatic squeezer.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
You can also buy gyros that are compensated for tilt.
Paul Besing
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:37 AM
>Subject: RV-List: GYROS/PANEL ANGLE
>
>
>>
>>My RV-4 control panel calculates 7 degree angle from main longerons
>>which are supposed to be level in flight, so I understand the attitude
>>gyro will not show level horizon. Is this important? can I change
>>the Gyro? maybe add bevel behind gyro to make level?
>>Would like advice on this.
>>
>Instrument shops can re-adjust the mechanism connecting the display card to
>the gyro cage to adapt to a panel wich is not vertical. Installing the
gyro
>as is does not hurt anything but the horizon line will not be in the center
>of the display in flight.
>
>Martin Sutter N868CM 1,350hrs
>
>
Paul Besing
Pinacor, Inc.
(800) 528-1415 ext.67697
.....Committed To Being Your Primary Distributor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Problem / Question |
David wrote:
> After drilling the aileron skin to skeleton, then disassenbly to deburr
> & c-sink, I found that the bottom of the spar bowed while drilling so that
> now the rivet line is bowed on it and the holes in the centeral area are
> too close to the edge of the flange. Everything else looks good, and the
> aileron appears to be flat and untwisted. Since these holes are 1.5 apart,
> could I drill several new holes in between with proper edge distance as a
> solution?? I also thought about gluing a doubler to it which would also get
> riveted and conceiveably restore its strength.
I'm building an RV6a, my first experience building an airplane. I consider mine
to be a student project. I am building it to be safe but I am not putting any
more energy than necessary into making it beautiful. Further, I expect to use
the aero equivalent bondo.
Your fix plan is quite adequate, I say.
I was told once that behind every show plane is a bin full of scrapped parts.
It is funny how people react when you have some kind of fix to make. Some say
to replace the aileron "your life depends on it" (gawd I get sick of hearing
that!). Some offer patch ideas. Others say it is all right as it is. We
forget too easily that some guys are rich, some retired with all the time in the
world, some never finish their "perfect" airplane and some fly pretty scary
airplanes.
YOU decide!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rohan Lloyd" <rlloyd(at)northnet.com.au> |
Has any body installed or had experience, Good or Bad, with these ERNI
intercoms. They are the intercoms produced in Chicago that leave your mikes
open and then electronically cancel the backgroung noise out of the transmit
side.ie. They are suppose to give you noise free intercom and radio
transmission??
Rohan LLOYD
AUSTRALIA
e-mail: rlloyd(at)northnet.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
On take off, upon achieving 120 MPH, I retard the throtte to 25 inches, then the
rpm to 2500 for climb. throttle is pushed in during climb to maintain 25, until
full in. RpM remains 2500 until 8 to 10 thousand, depending on your climb
speed. At level off set RPM and throttle to taste.
Good luck getting the guys to say what they use for cruise! Personally I am
still experimenting after 400 hrs. I am currently using 2300 RPM and full
throttle for any alt above 7.5. For max sane cruise speed, I use 2500 and full
throttle. In a headwind and in a hurry I use 2400.
RPM above 2550 don't seem to yield more speed,, at cruise!? But at climbs at
120MPH, 2600 works great above 10 thousand feet.
I leave the RPM at cruise setting for descent to pattern altitude, and throttle
back in two inch increments, to maintain five hundred fpm. At five miles from
airport, I throttle back to 17 inches to achieve less than 120MPH for the
pattern. At 45 to downwind I go to 14 inches to slow to 100 for flap extension.
Then I go to full rpm on down wind, but may start going to 2500 after reading
this thread from others! I will continue to always run the rpm to full for final
approach to make the flare a constant event, and have everything available for
go
around. Once or twice in the last couple years I have needed it.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
wrote:
>Has anybody heard what Trimble's plans to do with
>the Terra line of products?
When I asked the question of their tech support people when I called with
some questions I was told that they are in the process of selling it to
another company but are keeping quiet about it until the deal is closed.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
>
>As a rule,,,The MP should never be allowed to be much higher than the RPM.
Ahhoooogggaaaa Ahhoooooggggaaa --- Old Wives Tale Alert!!!
I don't know where this started in the dim recesses of time past, but this
is not true. I can think of several aircraft I have flown where "high" MAP
and "low" RPM are normal. I am currently flying an aircraft where it is
normal to run 2000 RPM and 28" of MAP. Another I have flown used 48" of
MAP and 3200 RPM. Lots of radial engines used even bigger differences.
And how is this for an example. At sea level your O-320 or O-360 is
pulling something close to 30" of MAP but with a fixed pitch prop is only
turning 2200 RPM or so at the beginning of your takeoff roll. I haven't
heard of this doing any damage in the past.
Read your engine manual. It will tell you what the limiting MAP is for a
given RPM. Most of our small normally-aspirated lycoming engines have no
limits (other than prop/engine RPM yellow arcs due to resonances).
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers;
Well I just screwed up good and I cannot find anything in the archives that is
specific to my problem. I spent the last week cutting , drilling and fitting the
cowl on my RV-6. After getting every thing finished other than the oil check
door, I stood back to admire my work and was shocked to find that sometime
during the drilling stage the cowl moved and now is almost 1/2" to the right and
3/8" to low. OK - so I take a deep breath and walk away to cool off but it is
still the same two days later. I have removed the firewall clecos and am able to
move the cowl into position - It looks like I'll get it in the correct place if
I trim about 3/16 off the top left corner.
Now how do I go about filling the holes in the fiberglass? Can I use straight
resin? Will the resin be too brittle to drill the new holes next too? Do I need
to use Flox and make a paste to fill the holes?
Your advice would be appreciated
Thanks,
Doug Murray RV-6 Frustrated with fiberglass
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 HEIM bearing measurements |
Anyone know what the measurements are on the RV8 rudder HEIM bearings? I
know I saw them in the plans somewhere, but tonight I couldn't find them.
I'm looking for the distance between the center of the bearing and the
rudder spar.
Thanks in advance
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 Page at:
http://tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: avery label product |
HillJW(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know where to buy the plastic label material designed for use with
> lasar printers? Some have used it for instrument panel placards and labels.
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> hilljw(at)aol.com
> rv8a
Office Max, Office Depot, or any other well-stocked office supply.
I am using Avery product #2660, 1" x 2 5/8" clear labels, one across,
strip of eight. You can buy them in packages of 160 labels. These labels
are for laser printers.
To see how the labels are installed, go here:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/panel2.html
Sam Buchanan (clearly labeled)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 HEIM bearing measurements |
Moe,
Drawing 6 shows the distance between the VS spar and the rudder spar as 2"
at the tip and 2 1/2" at the root. You'll have to measure the distance
from the VS spar to the hole in the VS410 & VS412 to determine the
measurement for the bearing from the rudder spar.
After putting the 410 & 411 in place, mount the rudder and check for free
movement and an even gap between the rudderr and stab. After makng any
fine adjustments you see fit. A few trial and error fittings and you're
all set. Yyou can then use a straight edge or string to set the middle
bearing.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
starting fuselage on the next warm day (tomorrow???)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | HELP Noisy Brakes |
I have 5.4 hours on the RV-6A now. Man, what a machine they are. Am seeing
160 knots at full throttle without wheel pants or fairings. (Hope the
airspeed is right, will check after the pants are on)
BUT .. My Brakes make the loudest sound I have heard on application.
Vibrates the floor. People come out of hangers to see what is going on. Has
been compared to a B-24 on the ground. At all speeds, all applications, they
howl.
On some very short taxi testing, the wheel pant bracket vibrated into the
brake rotor, and cut a grove completely thru, and failed the bracket at the
bottom bolt. They had about 3/16" clearance to the rotor. (have been flying
without the brackets, but it is time to put the fairings on)
So far I have:
1. Called Cleveland Brakes and relined the brakes and broke them in just like
they said. Did it again, just for kicks. No Improvement
2. Called Vans, who haven't heard of this either, but got some excellent
advice on how tight to make the wheel bearings. Just redid them, and no
change. (Tighten hand tight while spining, loosen, tighten while spinning, do
it again and again, and then Do Not Loosen One Flat, but put in the cotter pin
on the tight side).
3. Lubricate the pins with Lithium Grease, sound did not change.
I just walked down about 6 Cessna with Cleveland brakes, all of the Very
elderly category. The brake assembly was "Tighter" on almost all of them than
mine. By Tighter, I mean the fit of the pins into the Torque plate. You can
rock my brake about 1/16 inch on the slop in the pins.
Any Advice
Desperate in California
Bruce Patton
596S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: avery label product |
| From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
You can get 8.5" x 11" uncut sheets of the stuff from Paper Direct. The
only down side is that it comes in a package of 20 sheets and costs
approx $20. I used it for my panel and am satisfied with the results.
1-800-272-7377 Item #LL8000
Bob Hall
RV-6 N976RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cd005677(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
----------
>From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop
>Date: Thu, Mar 11, 1999, 9:48 AM
>
> ...history has shown that engine failures sometimes occur at the
>> moment of first power change. >>
>>
>>I am uncertain as to the truth of this assertion. This issue was discussed a
>>while back in TBO Advisor and dismissed due to lack of credible evidence.
>>-GV
>
> GV,
> I read that article, as well. But, since it happened to me, I always
> leave full power in until I reach a "safe" altitude.
> I rented an Archer several years ago to take my wife and two girls to OSH.
> On the way back from OSH, after having fueled at Mapleton, Iowa, I took off
> and headed west. When I got to cruising altitude, I went to pull the power
> back. The second I reduced power, the airplane began shaking violently.
> Couldn't read any of the gauges. If fact, I'm surprised any of the needles
> stayed on.
I have also heard this dismissed as a "wive's tale" but had it happen to me
as well.
I was leaving SNA in a Navion, and -instantly- had a violent shaking with
accompanying smoke and fuel smells the first time I touched the prop
control. Fortunately, the Navion with a big engine climbs well enough (like
any RV) that the subsequent forced landing back on the runway was a
non-event.
The Continental IO-520 had tossed a cylinder.
I have heard enough of these stories that I never touch any of the power
controls until I have enough altitude to comfortably return to the runway.
Even if it is a myth, it gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling.
On the downside, I have a stack of letters from the Santa Monica Airport
Authority reminding me about their noise abatement policies, suggesting
that I don't come back unless I learn to pull the prop back before crossing
the microphone off the end of the runway. :-(
James Freeman
RV-8 tail
based at M01 where I'm much quieter than the T-6's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Hi gang.
My 0-360 RV-4 has a climb prop and is like a dragster on take off and
climb. I have gotten into the habit of giving it about 2/3 power on take
off to avoid looking like I am showing off and to help keep smoother
control on 25 foot wide runways. Is this partial throttle Take-Off a no-no?
Must one always use full power?
P.S. No, I don't have a halo. I show off from time-to-time when there is
an audience. All I have to do is squeeze in the power all the way and the
beast is flying before I pass over the numbers. Then I fly down the 7000'
runway at 10' AGL, and... you know the rest of the story. (But I don't
climb out at over 45 degrees)
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Miller <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | air regulator question |
in my kit of tools from avery i got a brass air regulator with no
instrctions or directions. i am using a 2x gun and the regulator is
made of brass with 6 possible settings. i also have regualator at
cambell haus. 25 gal tank. what settings do i use?? thanx guys, bob in
arkansas doin the tail, well, sorta :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TUSEK, Adrian" <TUSEK_A(at)casa.gov.au> |
| Subject: | HELP Noisy Brakes |
Bruce,
At this stage the best I can suggest is to go back to square one. Go to
Cleveland Wheels & Brakes and get two publications from them. "Product
Catalog" and "Maintenance Manual"
Then go to the aircraft and take off the wheels and brakes and check
everything from start to finish is the correct part in the correct place and
facing the right way.
Regards,
Adrian
(in Australia)
PS- I have experienced noisy brakes on aircraft and those times it was a
problem caused by worn pads or discs causing vibration from not gripping
evenly..
> ----------
> From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com[SMTP:BPattonsoa(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, 12 March 1999 12:06
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: HELP Noisy Brakes
>
>
> I have 5.4 hours on the RV-6A now. Man, what a machine they are. Am
> seeing
> 160 knots at full throttle without wheel pants or fairings. (Hope the
> airspeed is right, will check after the pants are on)
>
> BUT .. My Brakes make the loudest sound I have heard on application.
> Vibrates the floor. People come out of hangers to see what is going on.
> Has
> been compared to a B-24 on the ground. At all speeds, all applications,
> they
> howl.
>
> On some very short taxi testing, the wheel pant bracket vibrated into the
> brake rotor, and cut a grove completely thru, and failed the bracket at
> the
> bottom bolt. They had about 3/16" clearance to the rotor. (have been
> flying
> without the brackets, but it is time to put the fairings on)
>
> So far I have:
> 1. Called Cleveland Brakes and relined the brakes and broke them in just
> like
> they said. Did it again, just for kicks. No Improvement
> 2. Called Vans, who haven't heard of this either, but got some excellent
> advice on how tight to make the wheel bearings. Just redid them, and no
> change. (Tighten hand tight while spining, loosen, tighten while
> spinning, do
> it again and again, and then Do Not Loosen One Flat, but put in the cotter
> pin
> on the tight side).
> 3. Lubricate the pins with Lithium Grease, sound did not change.
>
> I just walked down about 6 Cessna with Cleveland brakes, all of the Very
> elderly category. The brake assembly was "Tighter" on almost all of them
> than
> mine. By Tighter, I mean the fit of the pins into the Torque plate. You
> can
> rock my brake about 1/16 inch on the slop in the pins.
>
> Any Advice
>
> Desperate in California
> Bruce Patton
> 596S
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TUSEK, Adrian" <TUSEK_A(at)casa.gov.au> |
| Subject: | HELP Noisy Brakes |
Sorry, forgot to mention getting a copy of their "Technicians Service
Guide".
Adrian
> ----------
> From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com[SMTP:BPattonsoa(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, 12 March 1999 12:06
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: HELP Noisy Brakes
>
>
> I have 5.4 hours on the RV-6A now. Man, what a machine they are. Am
> seeing
> 160 knots at full throttle without wheel pants or fairings. (Hope the
> airspeed is right, will check after the pants are on)
>
> BUT .. My Brakes make the loudest sound I have heard on application.
> Vibrates the floor. People come out of hangers to see what is going on.
> Has
> been compared to a B-24 on the ground. At all speeds, all applications,
> they
> howl.
>
> On some very short taxi testing, the wheel pant bracket vibrated into the
> brake rotor, and cut a grove completely thru, and failed the bracket at
> the
> bottom bolt. They had about 3/16" clearance to the rotor. (have been
> flying
> without the brackets, but it is time to put the fairings on)
>
> So far I have:
> 1. Called Cleveland Brakes and relined the brakes and broke them in just
> like
> they said. Did it again, just for kicks. No Improvement
> 2. Called Vans, who haven't heard of this either, but got some excellent
> advice on how tight to make the wheel bearings. Just redid them, and no
> change. (Tighten hand tight while spining, loosen, tighten while
> spinning, do
> it again and again, and then Do Not Loosen One Flat, but put in the cotter
> pin
> on the tight side).
> 3. Lubricate the pins with Lithium Grease, sound did not change.
>
> I just walked down about 6 Cessna with Cleveland brakes, all of the Very
> elderly category. The brake assembly was "Tighter" on almost all of them
> than
> mine. By Tighter, I mean the fit of the pins into the Torque plate. You
> can
> rock my brake about 1/16 inch on the slop in the pins.
>
> Any Advice
>
> Desperate in California
> Bruce Patton
> 596S
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
Ouch, I sympathize. I am glassing the induction scoop on my cowl right now.
I think you should use a structural filler in the unused holes. Flox or
milled fiberglass should do it.
'Course, what do I know about fiberglass? I build aluminum airplanes ;)
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 doing all those final details before first flight
>
>After getting every thing finished other than the oil check
>door, I stood back to admire my work and was shocked to find that sometime
>during the drilling stage the cowl moved and now is almost 1/2" to the
right and
>3/8" to low.
>Now how do I go about filling the holes in the fiberglass? Can I use
straight
>resin? Will the resin be too brittle to drill the new holes next too? Do I
need
>to use Flox and make a paste to fill the holes?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 prototipe accident |
Pablo,
The accident investigation is complete. The break showed no evidence of
flutter or prior failure. Van's Aircraft static-tested a customer-built
wing to nine Gs at two different loading conditions and it held. My best
guess as to the cause is a simple overstress.
I am not at all worried about the RV-8 design. I plan to build one as my
next project.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 nearing completion
>
>Hi, my name is Pablo, and I am starting to build my RV-8 empennage by now.
>Anybody have any idea about the reasons for the wing break of the N58RV?
Any
>news?
>I am a little worried.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air regulator question |
Mitch Miller wrote:
>
> in my kit of tools from avery i got a brass air regulator with no
> instrctions or directions. i am using a 2x gun and the regulator is
> made of brass with 6 possible settings. i also have regualator at
> cambell haus. 25 gal tank. what settings do i use?? thanx guys, bob in
> arkansas doin the tail, well, sorta :)
>
>
Mitch , The regulator screws into the handle of the rivet gun. You will need the
regulator to adjust the line pressure when you change the rivet sizes. Have fun
building.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Take -off power |
No, partial power is not a no-no. An RV at 2/3 throttle still has several
times the performance of my father's 1967 Skyhawk.
On the other hand, I paid for 200 ponies. I don't plan to leave 50 of them
in the barn on takeoff. Or on climbout. Or on the up line. Or when
waxxing my ex-F-4-jock buddy's tail.
Regards
Tom "Pedal to the Metal" Craig-Stearman
RV-4 nearing completion
>
>My 0-360 RV-4 has a climb prop and is like a dragster on take off and
>climb. I have gotten into the habit of giving it about 2/3 power on take
>off to avoid looking like I am showing off and to help keep smoother
>control on 25 foot wide runways. Is this partial throttle Take-Off a no-no?
>Must one always use full power?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Am I missing something here, or couldn't you just trash 1/2 of your hinges
(the 1/2 attached to the cowl), and reuse the holes you've already drilled in
the cowl to attach a new hinge half (after correctly positioning the cowl)?
Or, if you're really into fiberglass repair, the Rutan "how to" book I've got
on plastic airplanes suggests grinding or sanding a layer or two off of the
surface so you can make a structural repair by adding new layers of
fiberglass. I'd only do this if the hinge replacement doesn't work AND you
will need to make new holes close to your bad holes.
If you can drill new holes at a decent distance from the bad ones, the flox
idea would probably work. You still might want to add a very thin layer of
glass over it to prevent and/or hide cracks.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Griesdale" <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
One more suggestion on the gap seal. Back rivet it to the skin (on the bench)
before applying the skin to
the structure for final riveting. Use the Avery offset back riveting tool.
Rob Griesdale, RV6-A, C-GWPC, Cayley, Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Griesdale" <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
Dear Ron
Use dash-3 plate nuts (from Van's) then drill the bolt heads for extra security.
Safety tying the bolt heads is not necessary though as the plate nut is
a form of lock nut. I went through this whole exercise and could not find the
bolts you are looking for.
Rob Griesdale, Cayley, Alberta. RV6-A C-GWPC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: air regulator question |
Mitch Miller wrote:
> in my kit of tools from avery i got a brass air regulator with no
> instrctions or directions. i am using a 2x gun and the regulator is
> made of brass with 6 possible settings. i also have regualator at
> cambell haus. 25 gal tank. what settings do i use??
Mitch,
Set the pressure on your compressor's regulator -- 30-40psi for -3
rivets, 50-60psi for -4. Don't use the brass one at all.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar protection |
I visited several alternater shops to have my alternater deregulated -
cheapest price $130.
Dave Beizer RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dall" <rdall(at)clinipath.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Vent Tube |
Dear Listers
I am in the process of riveting the ribs of the fuel tanks. I have only to
rivet the last rib of each tank (the end rib - the one without the access
plate) and was now going to install the vent tube....oops..forgot about the
nut fitting at the flared end of tube...too big to fit through snap fitting
holes.
My options seem to be:
1) Feed in the tube, put the nut and collar of the flare fitting in the last
compartment (closest to access plate). Bend the tube in this compartment so
as to enable tube to be flared in the tank compartment.
or
2) Flare the tube outside the tank and then (with fittings slipped on) try
and feed the tube into the tank from the access hole.
Has anyone had to do this?
Option 3 might be to remove the rib with the access hole... but it is not an
option I would look forward to.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Richard Dall
rdall(at)clinipath.net
RV6
Perth,Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | air regulator; the real reason for having one |
Mitch,
You are right in calling it an air regulator because that's all it does;
regulate how much air gets to the tool. It wont change the air's
pressure. Now for how to use it.
I run my air line at all times with 90 psi pressure. I adjust the speed
of the tool (drill, die grinder, rivet gun) with the air regulator. When
setting -4 rivets I open the valve wide open and for -3 rivets I open
the valve about 1/3 of the way.
Setting the rivet gun in this way allows a multitude of settings right
at the gun and not across the room at the pressure regulator attached to
the compressor. The effect is the same. Fast strong hits for the -4
rivets, and slower not quite so hard hits for the -3.
Forget to change your pressure regulator from hi to low someday and
drive a AN426AD3-? on your prized ships skin at 90 or 60 psi and you
will see why setting the air regulator at the gun is, IMHO, the only way
to go. Some people say that you need low pressure for the skins or dents
will be left. Wrong, my wife has set all the rivets in our plane at 90
psi and 1/3 open on the regulator and all we get is complements on the
quality of the riveting.
This method works for the drill too. Aluminum likes high cutting rates
so drilling with the regulator wide open is ok. Steel likes slow speeds.
You can use the drills variable rate trigger (an air regulator) to slow
the speed down, or if you have a lot of holes to drill, slow the drill
down with the brass regulator and just smash the drills trigger down and
get the same speed for each and every hole.
I have a regulator on my drill, rivet gun, and die grinder. One local
builder has one brass regulator and mounted it on the end of the hose
right before the quick disconnect. I thought this was a neat idea in
that you only have to buy one.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 Wings on for second time (this time right side up)
>
> Mitch Miller wrote:
> > in my kit of tools from avery i got a brass air regulator with no
> > instrctions or directions. i am using a 2x gun and the regulator is
> > made of brass with 6 possible settings. i also have regualator at
> > cambell haus. 25 gal tank. what settings do i use??
>
> Mitch,
> Set the pressure on your compressor's regulator -- 30-40psi for -3
> rivets, 50-60psi for -4. Don't use the brass one at all.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | air regulator question |
I used the brass regulator on my rivet gun. My drill is used without one.
The brass regulator is actually capable of many settings, not just six. I
screwed it in all the way, set the regulator on the tank to 90 pounds, then
opened the brass regulator one step at a time until I found just the right
setting for the AN3 flush rivets. I found that opening it two more clicks
is just right for the AN4 rivets most of the time, although the longer AN4
rivets need it to be opened three clicks.
Using this brass regulator makes it easy to get just the right setting for
your air gun without fussing with the air tank.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A waiting for the finishing kit
-----Original Message-----in my kit of tools from avery i
got a brass air regulator with no
instrctions or directions. i am using a 2x gun and the
regulator is
made of brass with 6 possible settings. i also have
regualator at
cambell haus. 25 gal tank. what settings do i use??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgraffeo(at)mail.usa.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/10/99 |
Question, I am prepairing to drill the skin on my V/S for a RV-4. Is the skin supposed
to overhang at the spar? I know it does by 1/2" at the top, but it overhangs
by 1 inch all the way along the spar.
Thanks.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email from USA.com at http://mail.usa.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 prototipe accident |
I'm new to this list and to RVs and I can easily imagine this is not a
question everyone may be comfortable with and would just as soon forget.
But for the sake of us newbies who's wives and maybe even ourselves
might need some more info, could we discuss it just a bit further?
This common answer (overstressed) bugs me just a little. What type of
flying and circumstances would have beeng going on in the factory plane
to cause this overstress?
Was it most likely a repeated circumstance or just a one time event?
In otherwords, could anyone come up with an actual scenario that the
prototype was put through to have caused this?
Not meaning to ruffle any feathers but for piece of mind looking for
some tangible information....
lucky
>From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 prototipe accident
>Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:03:38 -0600
>
>
>Pablo,
>The accident investigation is complete. The break showed no evidence
of
>flutter or prior failure. Van's Aircraft static-tested a
customer-built
>wing to nine Gs at two different loading conditions and it held. My
best
>guess as to the cause is a simple overstress.
>
>I am not at all worried about the RV-8 design. I plan to build one as
my
>next project.
>
>Regards,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>RV-4 nearing completion
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi, my name is Pablo, and I am starting to build my RV-8 empennage by
now.
>>Anybody have any idea about the reasons for the wing break of the
N58RV?
>Any
>>news?
>>I am a little worried.
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 prototipe accident |
Lucky . . . it is certainly okay, and prudent, to ask your question. The
problem is, all of us out here don't know any of the details--Van was very
open in sharing all that is known, and very open in sharing the test results
on the RV-8 wing structure. When you ask a question about "overstress" to
people on this list, you'll get all sorts of opinions and "Monday morning
quarterbacking"--much of which might create more confusion than help
because, once again, none of us know. The latest Sport Aviation, if I
remember correctly, mentioned some 750 builders working on "8"'s. I, for
one, spent a number of years and trips to Oshkosh before settling on an 8A.
I can't add or subtract from what has been officially published on the
prototype accident. But I can tell you I would not have decided on an 8A if
I had reservations of any sort.
This won't help re: clarification, but again, the best source of information
is what Van has published.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
RV8A tail kit on it's way
-----Original Message-----
From: lucky macy <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Friday, March 12, 1999 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 prototipe accident
>
>I'm new to this list and to RVs and I can easily imagine this is not a
>question everyone may be comfortable with and would just as soon forget.
>But for the sake of us newbies who's wives and maybe even ourselves
>might need some more info, could we discuss it just a bit further?
>
>This common answer (overstressed) bugs me just a little. What type of
>flying and circumstances would have beeng going on in the factory plane
>to cause this overstress?
>
>Was it most likely a repeated circumstance or just a one time event?
>
>In otherwords, could anyone come up with an actual scenario that the
>prototype was put through to have caused this?
>
>Not meaning to ruffle any feathers but for piece of mind looking for
>some tangible information....
>
>lucky
>
>
>>From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 prototipe accident
>>Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:03:38 -0600
>>
>
>>
>>Pablo,
>>The accident investigation is complete. The break showed no evidence
>of
>>flutter or prior failure. Van's Aircraft static-tested a
>customer-built
>>wing to nine Gs at two different loading conditions and it held. My
>best
>>guess as to the cause is a simple overstress.
>>
>>I am not at all worried about the RV-8 design. I plan to build one as
>my
>>next project.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Tom Craig-Stearman
>>RV-4 nearing completion
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Hi, my name is Pablo, and I am starting to build my RV-8 empennage by
>now.
>>>Anybody have any idea about the reasons for the wing break of the
>N58RV?
>>Any
>>>news?
>>>I am a little worried.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Doug,
If you're using the new S-cowl, you can fill the holes with flox and
drill your new ones. The new vacuum bagged S-cowls are much
stronger than the old wet lay-up cowls. You should never fill the
holes with just resin. Although it may work initially and may look
good for an indeterminate amount of time, eventually it may crack
and fall out. It also depends on the size of the hole as well.
If you have an older cowl, I would sand the area of the old holes
fairly well and lay-up 2 layers of BID cloth, perhaps under the
hinge as you attach the hinge in the new position. Once it sets,
you can fill the holes with either flox or filler.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Ready for Paint"
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 8:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Cowl repairs
>
>Listers;
>
>Well I just screwed up good and I cannot find anything in the archives that
is
>specific to my problem. I spent the last week cutting , drilling and
fitting the
>cowl on my RV-6. After getting every thing finished other than the oil
check
>door, I stood back to admire my work and was shocked to find that sometime
>during the drilling stage the cowl moved and now is almost 1/2" to the
right and
>3/8" to low. OK - so I take a deep breath and walk away to cool off but
it is
>still the same two days later. I have removed the firewall clecos and am
able to
>move the cowl into position - It looks like I'll get it in the correct
place if
>I trim about 3/16 off the top left corner.
>
>Now how do I go about filling the holes in the fiberglass? Can I use
straight
>resin? Will the resin be too brittle to drill the new holes next too? Do I
need
>to use Flox and make a paste to fill the holes?
>
>Your advice would be appreciated
>
>Thanks,
>
>Doug Murray RV-6 Frustrated with fiberglass
>Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: avery label product |
Another option is to use your computer to create your
placards on a plain sheet of paper using black ink.
Take your file to OfficeMax or other similar store that
does copying. They can import your file into a digital
copier, change the color of your print from black to
white, and print it on a full page label sheet.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Ready for Paint"
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: avery label product
>
>HillJW(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Does anyone know where to buy the plastic label material designed for use
with
>> lasar printers? Some have used it for instrument panel placards and
labels.
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> hilljw(at)aol.com
>> rv8a
>
>
>Office Max, Office Depot, or any other well-stocked office supply.
>
>I am using Avery product #2660, 1" x 2 5/8" clear labels, one across,
>strip of eight. You can buy them in packages of 160 labels. These labels
>are for laser printers.
>
>To see how the labels are installed, go here:
>
>http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/panel2.html
>
>Sam Buchanan (clearly labeled)
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/11/99 10:43:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
fwalker(at)insurquote.com writes:
<< being new to this, (I
just sent for my tail kit and have a long way to go) what should i look for
when
i go back? >>
Look for a couple hundred bucks and RUN back to buy up the lot as fast as you
can
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
<< One more suggestion on the gap seal. Back rivet it to the skin (on the
bench) before applying the skin to
the structure for final riveting. Use the Avery offset back riveting tool.
Rob Griesdale, RV6-A, C-GWPC, Cayley, Alberta
>>
This one goes in my personal archives after a SLAP on the forehead! DOH!! (H.
Simpson)
Sometimes the obvious hides right in front of us- Goods tip!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/10/99 |
On the RV-6 it is supposed to overhang the spar. I think the RV-6 and the
RV-4 are the same here.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: mgraffeo(at)mail.usa.com [mailto:mgraffeo(at)mail.usa.com]
Sent: Friday, March 12, 1999 6:14 AM
To: RV-List Digest Server
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 03/10/99
Question, I am prepairing to drill the skin on my V/S for a
RV-4. Is the skin supposed to overhang at the spar? I know it does by 1/2"
at the top, but it overhangs by 1 inch all the way along the spar.
Thanks.
---------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler |
Yes, and Don't forget to wear your suspenders AND belt while flying!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Griesdale <rockyr(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long Drilled Head Bolts For Baffle Mounting Oil Cooler
>
>Dear Ron
> Use dash-3 plate nuts (from Van's) then drill the bolt heads for extra
security. Safety tying the bolt heads is not necessary though as the plate
nut is a form of lock nut. I went through this whole exercise and could not
find the bolts you are looking for.
>
>
>Rob Griesdale, Cayley, Alberta. RV6-A C-GWPC
>
>
March 05, 1999 - March 12, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gn