RV-Archive.digest.vol-gp
March 18, 1999 - March 25, 1999
>
>
>>
>>I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and both
>ends.
>>Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the skeleton,
>>but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
>>stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How much is
>>too much? Did I do this while backrivetting the stiffeners in place?
How?
>>Should I order order another skin and rebuild, or continue and risk having
>>to rebuild the entire aileron? Advice please.....
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>-Larry
>>email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>>web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the |
country in my RV-4
>
>Has anybody designed a pilot relief tubbe for their RV?
Ohh man, could I have used one of those last Saturday.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry in my |
RV-4
Hi,
this discussion about relief tubes and all brings me to suggest using one
of the following - a wide mouth Snapple (tm) bottle - for those with larger
bladders the quart size should suffice, unless you're drinking more
enroute....
or get a "Little John" with a "Lady J Adapter" costs about $6.00 + shipping
from Sporty's......holds a quart and has a non-leaking cap. has a flat
bottom so
it doesn't roll around in the plane. I imagine the female version would not
be too
private (you could use a blanket for cover), but when you gotta go at
altitude, you
gotta go....
this would save cutting holes in your newly constructed aircraft and "hose
management"
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A
----------
> From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry
in my RV-4
> Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 11:20 PM
>
>
> >
> >Has anybody designed a pilot relief tubbe for their RV?
>
> Ohh man, could I have used one of those last Saturday.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
O-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the country in my |
RV-4
Brian,
I am not sure what Uric acid does to Alum. and the smell may linger.
It might make washing the plane after each flight necessary. :) (note no
nose)
Tom
-
>>
>>Has anybody designed a pilot relief tubbe for their RV?
>
>Ohh man, could I have used one of those last Saturday.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Steve-
Make sure you know the Serial Number and/or at least the type of spar flange
strips it has and try to get a building "start" date (the completion date
should be on the data plate). This is crucial in knowing what mods are
required and also what to look for as far as "fixes" that have been
called-out over the years in the newsletters/RV-ator, etc (i.e., the fix to
the engine mount for cracks in the mount/gear tubes from wheel shimmy, the
change in the trim tab from the original design, etc.).
The mods that are required (mainly CN-1 & CN-2) are not complicated and
should not discourage you from purchasing a great aircraft. But, you REALLY
need to do what Scott McDaniels suggested and take someone along that at
least knows RV's, and preferably knows the -3's.
I have a friend who just recently traded a '56-58(?) C-172 for a RV-3 and a
pre-war Taylorcraft. When he got the -3 (which is what he really wanted out
of the deal), he knew it was rough around the edges (needed paint, needed FG
work, needed a new canopy, needed gearleg fairing, etc.), but it was what he
didn't know that kinda bit him.
When I looked at the plane, I found that the right inboard aileron attach
mounting has been bent from what looked like compression stress which would
indicate an overspeed or an overstress. This means that the wings need to
be opened and examined at the bellcrank and bellcrank rib, and the torque
tubes checked for bends, etc. Then, when I looked at the spar flanges (from
what I could see of them from the gap b/t the wing and fuselage), it
appeared that the builder had ground down the flanges to "fit" into the
fuselage. Yikes! Also, there were small stall gates on the leading edge of
the wings at the mid-wing point. They were only sticking out about a 1/2",
but closer examination (it really was an optical illusion!) showed that the
wing fuel tanks stuck out 1/4" past the outer skin/d-section, and the stall
gate was used to "hide" this screw up, perhaps after wet wings were
retro-fitted at one point or another?
In addition, the -3 had flown about 40 hours with it's previous owner (and
God knows how many hours prior to that?) without the bolt holding the
elevators together. . .there was still untouched primer in the hole! The
elevators were held on by the bearings, and moved/held together by only the
torque tube/bellcrank attach bolt!
Moral of the story: The -3 is an awesome airplane, that even Van himself
says flies better than any of the other RV's (here we go, commence flaming),
but since it was the first design it has more things to be conscious about
than say a -4 or -6. Take a knowledgeable RV'er with you, preferably a -3er
and look it over good, only AFTER doing your homework on what to look for.
If it looks good, a good going price for a -3 is probably anywhere from
about $9-25K, with a mean at about $12.5 - 16.5 for one with a O-320/160hp
that needs some TLC, IMHO.
Give me a call or send me an email off list if you have any specifics. I am
still doing my mods to my -3, and can give you names of about 5-10 or so
owners that have done the mods that you can talk to. I am also getting
together info on interested builder/flyers/owners of the -3 and have an
email group listing of all their emails/addresses/numbers that I am
preparing to circulate.
Blue skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lopez, Steve
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 8:44 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3 Price
>
>
> This airplane has a 160 horse 0-320 with 1300 hrs, metal prop,
> radio and is VFR only.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lopez, Steve [SMTP:lopezs(at)pweh.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 7:52 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RV3 Price
>
>
> I am looking at an RV3 that's for sale in my area but I
> was wondering what it might be worth (just ball park). It has
> 1300 hrs, needs a paint job and the wings haven't been redone. Any Ideas?
> Thanks Steve.
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | Re: a new perspective to JPI |
I think the first reason for me to oppose JPI is that by
threatening Matronics they are threatening my project. Add in their
particularly weak trademark infringement argument and it's easy to conclude
that they're just trying to put a small competitor out of business by over
burdening him with legal fees. That's pretty shabby.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99 |
I am contemplating building an RV6 in my single car garage. How far can I get
with this project here in my garage before I need to move to another location
to assemble wings to fuselage? Are there times where the wings need to be temporarily
assembled? Can I do all but final assembly right here?
Do I have all the room I need?
Dave Ford
still contemplating
________________________________________________________________________________
I notice on my RV-8 that in high speed cruise, my turn coordinator ball
is a half to the right. However I notice that when I slightly apply
rudder to center it and then hold it, I get no increase in speed, so I
wonder if my turn coordinator could be defective? It is centered when on
the ground. What is funny is that I got this turn coordinator out of my
RV-4 I had, and in that airplane it also was always a half-ball to the
right in high cruise. Any tricks for figuring out whether my rudder needs
a tab, or whether the instrument is at fault? Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8; Observations |
Well the weather has finally allowed me to do some more flying, and so I
am going to post my speeds, temps, etc. Here they are;
At 2500', OAT 55 degrees, 23 square(the engine sounds like it is just
loafing at this setting) averages out to 170 knots, figured using GPS
speeds and flying several triangles and averaging out the speeds.
Indicated is also 170 knots.
CHT's
#1 300-310 degrees #2 315-325 degrees
#3 335- 355 degrees #4 360-375 degrees
Oil pressure; Avg 85 psi Oil Temperature; Avg 175-185 degrees.
Volts; 14.4 Battery Current; 32.1
Fuel pressure; 2.5-3 psi
I have not done full power or higher altitude runs yet. Please let me
know if any of you feel any of the above numbers seem out of line.
After the first 5 hours, I am finding that it is a little more
challenging to make smooth landings in the RV-8, because of three things;
1. the very nose high stance of the airplane makes it difficult for me
to see the runway ahead to judge flare. 2. Greatly increased rudder
sensitivity( over the RV-4) makes the rudder pedals 'trigger sensitive'.
3. The gear has a lot less flex in it than the RV-4, so is less forgiving
of a rougher landing(but then it doesn't spring you back in the air,
either.)
I intend to fix #1 by adding cushions to my seat to sit higher for better
forward visibility. #2 With a lot of practice I should get used to this.
#3 The upside of this is that this gear is much stronger than the RV-4.
Stay tuned!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: a new perspective to JPI |
Thanks for the clarification John. By looking at there marketing material, I
thought it was a fairly large company.
I still think the idea of suing over the word scanner is wrong, and will
benefit nobody in the long run.
Sylvain
>
>Sylvain,
> JPI is just a few miles down the street from me.I have been to
>their shop.
>It is a very small business not more than 5 people.I don't know why JPI is
>being called a large company.They most likely spent alot of capitol for a
>VERY small company on protecting the image they have built up with their
>line of well thought out products.
>
> John Hughes, So Cal
> RV-6 N164JH Flying this summer
> with a fine JPI product in the panel.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder 410 brace question |
Hi Listers:
Dumb question but I can't find the answer in the archives, manual or from
George, my videotape guru.
Are you supposed to countersink the R410 where it attaches to the rib and
skin with CS4 pop rivets?
Thanks,
Phil
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry in my |
RV-4
> this would save cutting holes in your newly constructed aircraft and "hose
> management"
Actually (& seriously), I have seen somewhere in one of my supply catalogs a
small, 2" plastic venturi that is made for this specific purpose. If I
remember correctly, it attaches to bottom of the aircraft (hopefully as far
aft as possible), and a tube is connected to the venturi that runs up to the
cabin and has a little john/lady Y type fittings available for the end.
(okay, not so serious now) I'll look for this in my literature. I'm sure if
you guys wanted to, you could make yourselves a custom adapter to fit
whatever need you feel fit? Except,. . . well. . .you may,. .. . yah. .
.better stick to liquids and lay off the fiber!
I have a just a poor little RV-3 with no fancy gizmos and gadgets, but I
guess if you have all the money and time to have room for whatever your
hearts desire.. . .then? Who'da guessed, RV's with AutoSuck! :-)
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
>
>I notice on my RV-8 that in high speed cruise, my turn coordinator ball
>right in high cruise. Any tricks for figuring out whether my rudder needs
>a tab, or whether the instrument is at fault? Thanks.
I'd try taping a 4 inch piece of yarn to the top forward portion of the
canopy aligned with a grease pencil mark that is centered on the canopy
below the yarn. When the longitudinal axis is aligned with the relative
wind, the yarn should be too, and the ball should be centered if the wings
are level. I've ridden with a surprising number of pilots who fly in a
slight slip all the time, and don't even know it, especially when
descending. If you relax and concentrate you should easily feel as little
as a half-ball deflection at the point your upper back or shoulders contact
the seat (seat of the pants only better).
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
from: Mail Delivery Subsystem
| Subject: | Mail Delivery Problem |
Sorry rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com. Your mail to jballen96 could not be delivered
because jballen96 is not accepting mail with attachments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the country in my |
RV-4
Why not just buy one of those relief plastic bottles with the screw on
cap from Sporty's for $4.95? Works great! Seems one would waste a lot
of time designing and building a relief tube into an RV. At my rate of
$20/hour, if I spent more than about 15 minutes on the design and
install, it would be more economical to go the Sporty's route :)
Scott
RV-4 tailkit
Gummos wrote:
>
>
> As an Officer, but hopely not one of the unfriendly kind, I was carried a
> water bottle on OV-10 flights where the length was such that the relief tube
> was required. Before using the tube, I would pour a little water into the
> tube to ensure it was working properly. If not, the other tube was never
> turned on.
>
> BTW, it was hooked up to a small venturi (spelling??) which produced a
> vacuum and sucked the liquid out of the tube. I have no idea if a simple
> tube to the bottom of the plane would work.
>
> BTW, the F-4 didn't have one and my one 13 hour flight, counting ground
> time, got very painful before landing. But that is another story.
>
> Tom Gummo
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
The ball part of the instrument is not attached to anything mechanical,
so if whenn the plane is level from side to side on the ground, the ball
should be centered. If so, it should be accurate in flight as well.
n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I notice on my RV-8 that in high speed cruise, my turn coordinator ball
> is a half to the right. However I notice that when I slightly apply
> rudder to center it and then hold it, I get no increase in speed, so I
> wonder if my turn coordinator could be defective? It is centered when on
> the ground. What is funny is that I got this turn coordinator out of my
> RV-4 I had, and in that airplane it also was always a half-ball to the
> right in high cruise. Any tricks for figuring out whether my rudder needs
> a tab, or whether the instrument is at fault? Thanks.
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>>
>>I notice on my RV-8 that in high speed cruise, my turn coordinator ball
>
>>right in high cruise. Any tricks for figuring out whether my rudder needs
>>a tab, or whether the instrument is at fault? Thanks.
>
> I'd try taping a 4 inch piece of yarn to the top forward portion of the
> canopy aligned with a grease pencil mark that is centered on the canopy
> below the yarn. When the longitudinal axis is aligned with the relative
> wind, the yarn should be too, and the ball should be centered if the wings
> are level. I've ridden with a surprising number of pilots who fly in a
> slight slip all the time, and don't even know it, especially when
> descending. If you relax and concentrate you should easily feel as little
> as a half-ball deflection at the point your upper back or shoulders contact
> the seat (seat of the pants only better).
>
> - Mike
> hartmann(at)sound.net
Tieing yarn on the canopy works great in gliders, but the propwash
should be putting a bit of an angle in the airflow there on an RV-8,
so it probably won't tell you the truth. I was looking at an RV-4 a
few months back and noted the stains on the bottom of the fuselage
from the exhaust didn't go straight back, but were at a slight angle
to the left.
If the ball is in the center when on the ground, it will be telling
you the truth in the air. This assumes that you are on level ground,
both tires are the same pressure, etc so the fuselage is actually
level. To be really sure you could jack the aircraft and level it in
the in flight attitude and check the ball then.
I'm not surprised that putting in a small amount of rudder to center
the ball might not cause a speed increase.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry in my |
RV-4
Hose management can get to be a problem. Also corrosion. One of our
glider guys asked for my help in repairing their retractable landing
gear. It seems that the hose came out in the wheel well and had been
used plenty of times.
Unfortunately, the pilots didn't realize that one should only use the
hose with the gear extended and wheel doors open. The amount of
corrosion was unbelievable. Of course, I had them dismantle the parts
and clean them first, etc. :-)
One other possibility is to go the local pharmacy or health products
store and get one of those bags that you strap to your legs. The hose
is connected to what looks like a condom. After you land, you just
empty the bag.
Be careful and RTFM, though. One of my buddies bought one and came down
early because he was dehydrated. He decided to use it while standing
around talking to someone. Of course, no having RTFM, he hadn't opened
the little valve in the hose. Also, he hadn't arranged for hair
placement for some double sided sticky tape. Yup, back flow all over
his chinos. Good thing he doesn't subscribe to this list; he is still
mortified. :-)
Michael Pilla
IEN YOE wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> this discussion about relief tubes and all brings me to suggest using one
> of the following - a wide mouth Snapple (tm) bottle - for those with larger
> bladders the quart size should suffice, unless you're drinking more
> enroute....
>
> or get a "Little John" with a "Lady J Adapter" costs about $6.00 + shipping
> from Sporty's......holds a quart and has a non-leaking cap. has a flat
> bottom so
> it doesn't roll around in the plane. I imagine the female version would not
> be too
> private (you could use a blanket for cover), but when you gotta go at
> altitude, you
> gotta go....
>
> this would save cutting holes in your newly constructed aircraft and "hose
> management"
>
> Paul Bilodeau
> RV-6A
>
> ----------
> > From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry
> in my RV-4
> > Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 11:20 PM
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Has anybody designed a pilot relief tubbe for their RV?
> >
> > Ohh man, could I have used one of those last Saturday.
> >
> >
> > Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> > brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> > http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> > +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
> O-
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | HS-411 pp question |
Message text written by Bob
>directions say to use one pre-drilled 411 as a guide-no problem.
QUESTION: what size drill??? the plans last mentined to use the #30 for
flange strips-on prvious direction step- so is it safe to assume that
one uses same drill size??<
No, but in this case it works out that way. Dwg 5 shows the details of the
411 and specifies AN470AD4-5 rivets. These require a #30 drill. As you
move along in your construction, the directions will become less specific
and step by step. You need to get in the habit of looking at the plans to
determine rivets / bolts used and the holes required. Generally speaking,
on the tail and wings, the skins are attached with AN435AD3-x (3/32 flush
rivets) and the underlying structure uses AN470AD4-x (1/8 universal head
rivet). THIS IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE!! You must always refer to the plans for
specific fasteners used.
> directions also mentin to use -4 rivets as guide in the bracket, sooo -4
rivet=#30 drill?? or is it on plans somewhere and i am over looking??<
AD4-x rivets require a #30 hole. AD3-x rivets require a #40 hole. Some
people will use a #41 drill for AD3 rivets when the skin is to be dimpled
because the dimpling process will stretch the skin and hole size a bit. Of
course, whether you use a #40 or 41, the dimple die will stretch the hole
to the same size so I use a #40. I ens up with the same size hole, less
stretch = less stress.
> also should bearing be primed????(outer alum wheel)???<
I didn't
> directions say nothing of drill size for the 411 bractets to horz rear
spar re: drill
size??? so help me in where i am missing this info<
Dwg 3 has a note to see details of the 411 on Dwg 5. You will see that
the HS-411 is bolted to the spar with AN3-5's (10-32 bolts). The holes
will need to be drilled to size for these (13/16 or #6).
Scott A. Jordan
80331
floor assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder 410 brace question |
Message text written byPhil
>Are you supposed to countersink the R410 where it attaches to the rib and
skin with CS4 pop rivets?<
Given the option, I will choose dimple over countersink. Even with a
microstop, dimpling seems more consistant and accurate. If you prefer to
countersink, I would countersink the rib and leave the R410 whole, The rib
will be sandwiched between the skin and 410 so no strength is lost.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Floor assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8; Observations |
Von....
On your issue of rudder sensitivity....try putting some slack in your
springs. I currently fly a Kitfox and have found that the spring tension
makes a lot of difference in rudder authority.
Chat Daniel
RV8 678RV(reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 1:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8; Observations
>
>Well the weather has finally allowed me to do some more flying, and so I
>am going to post my speeds, temps, etc. Here they are;
>At 2500', OAT 55 degrees, 23 square(the engine sounds like it is just
>loafing at this setting) averages out to 170 knots, figured using GPS
>speeds and flying several triangles and averaging out the speeds.
>Indicated is also 170 knots.
>CHT's
>#1 300-310 degrees #2 315-325 degrees
>#3 335- 355 degrees #4 360-375 degrees
>
>Oil pressure; Avg 85 psi Oil Temperature; Avg 175-185 degrees.
>Volts; 14.4 Battery Current; 32.1
>Fuel pressure; 2.5-3 psi
>I have not done full power or higher altitude runs yet. Please let me
>know if any of you feel any of the above numbers seem out of line.
>After the first 5 hours, I am finding that it is a little more
>challenging to make smooth landings in the RV-8, because of three things;
> 1. the very nose high stance of the airplane makes it difficult for me
>to see the runway ahead to judge flare. 2. Greatly increased rudder
>sensitivity( over the RV-4) makes the rudder pedals 'trigger sensitive'.
>3. The gear has a lot less flex in it than the RV-4, so is less forgiving
>of a rougher landing(but then it doesn't spring you back in the air,
>either.)
>I intend to fix #1 by adding cushions to my seat to sit higher for better
>forward visibility. #2 With a lot of practice I should get used to this.
>#3 The upside of this is that this gear is much stronger than the RV-4.
>Stay tuned!
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N426BBRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99 |
Dave,
I built my RV6A in a one car garage so it can be done. As I finished
rudder, horizontal, elevators, etc. I put them up on the ceiling rafters and
also nailed 2X4s to wall studs for some of the lighter pieces.
The wing jig was built down the middle of the garage and when the first
wing was completed it was moved as far to the side of the garage as possible
and the second wing was built.
After both wings were finished I moved the wing jig as far to the side as
possible and hung both wings, (one on each side of the jig) just like the way
they were being constructed.
The fusalage was then positioned in a manner that allowed me to get by on
the sides. It was a tight fit at times but it can be done.
As for assembling the wings, I moved the fuselage out the front of the
garage far enough to stab the wings for the short time that it takes to do
whatever needs to be done at that time.
If you need more info email me direct
Bill Bishop
RV6A 315 hrs
DWH Houston, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around thecountry in my |
RV-4
In a message dated 3/18/99 9:08:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< this discussion about relief tubes and all brings me to suggest using one
of the following - a wide mouth Snapple (tm) bottle >>
I think even the wide mouth bottle might be a press-fit for those of us with
size 13 feet. How about a Mason jar. Those Masons must have forseen this
need.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99 |
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 12:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99
>
>I am contemplating building an RV6 in my single car garage. How far can I
get with this project here in my garage before I need to move to another
location to assemble wings to fuselage? Are there times where the wings
need to be temporarily assembled? Can I do all but final assembly right
here?
>Do I have all the room I need?
>
>Dave Ford
>still contemplating
>
>Hi Dave, the single car garage should work but is obviously smaller than
ideal. On a RV6 you do not have to mate the wings to the fuselage until
final assembly. I built my RV6 in my living room (16'x16') and found that
adequate. I also built a complete RV8 airframe in my 2car garage using only
half of it, so I know it can be done. Good luck,
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,350hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during construction? |
Seeing this reminded me of a question I have been meaning to post. My RV-6A
fuselage is upright, in a cradle. I am waiting for the finishing kit. I
would like to install the engine mount and nose gear, the main gear and all
three wheels so I can get the fuselage up on its gear, once the kit arrives.
Given the fact that I will hang an engine on the front, there are no wings
yet and I will climb in and out of the cockpit hundreds of times before I am
done, I worry that the main gear may not be strong enough to hold the weight
of the airplane. Have you RV-6A builders put our fuselages up on their gear
during construction? Did you make a false spar to run the bolts through?
Was it strong enough?
-----Original Message-----
I built my RV6A in a one car garage so it can be done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dimeo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8: Aileron Oilcanning |
Larry,
Do you actually mean oil canning or just flexing of the skin? I checked mine
and there is some flexing but I would only consider it oil canning if the metal
"popped" in some fashion from convex to concave or made an oil-canning noise
when pushed on with a finger. Another kind of oil canning is when you push on
one part of the skin and another part rises up in response. The skin is not
taught so some movement will be there. After all there is only a preimeter
skeleton. That's why the stiffeners are there or the whole thing would flex like
a wet noodle.
Regards,
Bob
Rv8 #423
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and both ends.
> Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the skeleton,
> but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
> stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How much is
> too much? Did I do this while backrivetting the stiffeners in place? How?
> Should I order order another skin and rebuild, or continue and risk having
> to rebuild the entire aileron? Advice please.....
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Larry
> email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> web: http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Lyc. vs Chevy V-6 |
In a message dated 3/18/99 8:01:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
> There are 200 hp O-360's ?? I thought they were only IO-360's
Sorry wasn't paying attention, but same formula:
180HP x 5252 / 2700RPM = 350 lb/ft. torque
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
| Subject: | HS-411 pp question |
Let me just add my $0.02 since I ran into a problem there myself a while
back. Scott is absoltely right in that you need to rely more on the
drawings than the instructions for rivet size, etc. But this was the step
where I learned you can't overly rely on the drawings either. If I recall
correctly, the drawings called for -5 rivets (length) when -6 rivets were
clearly required. I figured that the people doing the drawings sure knew
more about it than I did, so I went ahead and put in the smaller rivets. Of
course, the shop head size did not meet the minimums, so I agonized for a
while then took them all out and re-riveted with cut -6's (my own 5 and
1/2's). That's why the basic RV tool kit from Avery includes a rivet
cutter.
The bottom line is this: I choose the LENGTH of rivet I use entirely by my
rivet gauge and not the drawings (obviously I use the type of rivet of rivet
called for). There are plenty of times where I use a different size rivet
or cut my own.
Unlike Scott, I did prime this piece, but I was worried while I did it about
clogging the bearing. Fortunately it works fine, so I'm glad I primed it.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A Empennage complete, except trim tab (next step is to build a new
workshop!!)
Pittsburgh, PA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott A. Jordan [SMTP:SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 8:20 AM
> To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: HS-411 pp question
>
>
> Message text written by Bob
> >directions say to use one pre-drilled 411 as a guide-no problem.
> QUESTION: what size drill??? the plans last mentined to use the #30 for
> flange strips-on prvious direction step- so is it safe to assume that
> one uses same drill size??<
>
> No, but in this case it works out that way. Dwg 5 shows the details of
> the
> 411 and specifies AN470AD4-5 rivets. These require a #30 drill. As you
> move along in your construction, the directions will become less specific
> and step by step. You need to get in the habit of looking at the plans to
> determine rivets / bolts used and the holes required. Generally speaking,
> on the tail and wings, the skins are attached with AN435AD3-x (3/32 flush
> rivets) and the underlying structure uses AN470AD4-x (1/8 universal head
> rivet). THIS IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE!! You must always refer to the plans for
> specific fasteners used.
>
> > directions also mentin to use -4 rivets as guide in the bracket, sooo -4
> rivet=#30 drill?? or is it on plans somewhere and i am over looking??<
>
> AD4-x rivets require a #30 hole. AD3-x rivets require a #40 hole. Some
> people will use a #41 drill for AD3 rivets when the skin is to be dimpled
> because the dimpling process will stretch the skin and hole size a bit.
> Of
> course, whether you use a #40 or 41, the dimple die will stretch the hole
> to the same size so I use a #40. I ens up with the same size hole, less
> stretch = less stress.
>
> > also should bearing be primed????(outer alum wheel)???<
>
> I didn't
>
> > directions say nothing of drill size for the 411 bractets to horz rear
> spar re: drill
> size??? so help me in where i am missing this info<
>
> Dwg 3 has a note to see details of the 411 on Dwg 5. You will see that
> the HS-411 is bolted to the spar with AN3-5's (10-32 bolts). The holes
> will need to be drilled to size for these (13/16 or #6).
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> floor assembly
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during construction? |
Hi Stephen,
I build a false spar out of wood to be able to do exactly what you are
asking to do. I doubt that you could install the engine and climb back
and for into the cockpit without doing some damage if you do not install
some sort of false spar.
A wood spar is easy to built definitly strong enough. Also unless you
are parked very close to an airport, you will need some way to bring
your aircraft to the airport without wings installed. I had mine on a
trailer with engine, tail and all instruments installed so that I
definitly needed a false spar. My $0.02 worth .
Enjoy
Marc Guay
RV-6A
C-FWUV
50TT hours and counting
>From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during
construction?
>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:52:28 -0500
>
>
>Seeing this reminded me of a question I have been meaning to post. My
RV-6A
>fuselage is upright, in a cradle. I am waiting for the finishing kit.
I
>would like to install the engine mount and nose gear, the main gear and
all
>three wheels so I can get the fuselage up on its gear, once the kit
arrives.
>Given the fact that I will hang an engine on the front, there are no
wings
>yet and I will climb in and out of the cockpit hundreds of times before
I am
>done, I worry that the main gear may not be strong enough to hold the
weight
>of the airplane. Have you RV-6A builders put our fuselages up on their
gear
>during construction? Did you make a false spar to run the bolts
through?
>Was it strong enough?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I built my RV6A in a one car garage so it can be
done.
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8: Aileron Oilcanning |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and both ends.
> Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the skeleton,
> but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
> stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How much is
> too much? Did I do this while backrivetting the stiffeners in place? How?
> Should I order order another skin and rebuild, or continue and risk having
> to rebuild the entire aileron? Advice please.....
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Larry
> email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> web: http://BowenAero.com
>
Larry,
I'm building a -6, but the ailerons are probably similar. Thinking
back, I had a little oil canning in the ailerons before riveting, but it
tightened up when it was riveted. I had read John Brights "Oilcanning
Skills" section on his web site <http://www.hroads.net/~john/>, and used
it on control surfaces.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: GSTRV8(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-8
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:26:33 EST
I'll be using a IO-360-B1E-180hp eng. with an aerobatic c/s prop.and light
weight starter, engine weight is the same as O-360 but prop. comes in at 60#
which is 5# heavier then reg. c/s. I would like to install the battery aft of
f/w in the forward baggage comp. but was told that it would probably make it
nose heavy. I'm trying to stay away from an aft cabin installation because of
extra cable length, weight and ease of servicing. Your expertise advice would
be appreciated
Gil Theriault 80628
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder 410 brace question |
pdsmith wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers:
>
> Dumb question but I can't find the answer in the archives, manual or from
> George, my videotape guru.
> Are you supposed to countersink the R410 where it attaches to the rib and
> skin with CS4 pop rivets?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
> RV8
>
>
Phil,
The "CS" stands for countersunk head. It doesn't take very much of a
countersink. I first drilled the hole with a #40, countersunk with a
#40 countersink, then drilled it out to #30 and installed the rivets. I
think the deburing tool would probably do a countersink that is
satisfactory for the CS4.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jimandkathy(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the country in my |
RV-4
Consider using a pittel (sp) pack rather than building and maintaining a
relief tube. I used pittle packs while flying jets around aircraft carriers
in the Navy and still carry one with me on all flights. I just did a bit of
research and these items are still available from New York City for the
Blind for $8.07 each. A bit expensive yes, but consider what it cost to
land just to pee.
POC is Frank and he said he can take your Credit Card # and send you any
number, no minimum purchase. He typically deals only with GOV contracts and
sells in large #s but after some checking, he is able to sell to individual
users. NYC for the Blind phone # is 718 786-9328/9300.
Hope this helps those who like their coffee and cross country flying to.
Jim Stone
Louisville
Rocket wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clear Creek Associates" <PineRanch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during construction? |
> Subject: RV-List: Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during
> construction? ....Have you RV-6A builders put our fuselages up on
> their gear during construction? Did you make a false spar to run the
bolts through? Was it strong enough?
>
Steve:
I put my fuse up on the gear legs and without the bottom forward skin so I
could more easily finish up all the forward cockpit details. I used some
plywood as a false spar but only enough to get a few bolts through the gear
mounts. The false spar does not go the full width of the fuse. I have been
in and out of the fuse many times without a hitch. Support under the tail is
required though as the engine is not yet mounted. While I am seeing to all
the little details with the forward bottom skin off I am now contemplating
the order in which I will do some of the remaining tasks.
In order to put the forward bottom skin on I'll have to remove the gears,
place the skin and then replace the gears. I'm assuming that the stiffness
gained with the belly skin on will be enough to support everything
sufficiently until the wings are placed. If not, I'm thinking I'll just put
the false spars back in place.
Paul Osterman
Anderson, Ca
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Empennage for sale |
Jim. I may be interested in the tail kit. Is it the pre drilled model? and
does it have everything included? Where do you live if I where to buy it? I'm
in Texas in the Houston area. Thanks
Mike Rawls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)megsinet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99 |
N426BBRV(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dave,
> I built my RV6A in a one car garage so it can be done.
* snip *
I'd kill for a one car garage! :-) I built my empennage and wings in my living
room. My new apartment (the project moved to Chicago) doesn't have room to build
the fuselage, so I am looking for a hangar or garage to continue. Of course,
since my commute turns out to be an hour each way every day, I am also looking
for
the time. However, it can be done in a one car garage, to answer the original
question.
By the way, for those who are wondering when my website will ever be updated, I
must apologize. One day I hope to have vacation long enough to catch up on my
projects; that will be one of them. I have photos of the wings and such in the
U-haul truck that I'd love to share. For those who have not already seen it, my
site is at:
http://www.flion.com/rv6a/index.htm
PatK - RV-6A - parts in storage :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Building in garage |
There are some new water based epoxy/two part systems available at the Home
Depot and similar places that should work well. I like a painted floor too. Do
not archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice - Does anybody know of a good paint shop within 600 |
miles of Chicago that would paint an RV6A ?
My RV6A is in need of a professional paint job. Its flys so fast that the
paint on it is flaking off (heheheh). Does anybody know of a good shop
within 600 miles or so of Chicago ? Thanks in advance for your help.
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net RV6A N345RV 125 TT / Chicago
RV8A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 / Fuel Sender / Platenuts |
Hello,
Maybe the pro seal has gotten to me but I can't connect on what screws and
platenuts I need to attach the Vans fuel sender (Stewart Warner) to the
tank.
It is not in the box with the sender and it is not on my plans.
Thanks
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Will the gear support the weight of an RV-6A during |
construction?
Steve,
I did just what you are planning. You need a false spar. Took me about a
half hour to build the false spar. When you drill the false spar for the
bolts, oversize the holes and it will make everything a little easier to
install. BTW, I have never been inside the fuselage performing work. I
sat in it once, just to see if I fit. With the top forward skin off,
access is real easy for all work until you rivet the top skin on.
I just pulled the gear and mounts and engine this week and painted the
interior of the fuselage today. What a pain in the butt. Exteriors are
much easier to paint. I now have the plane sitting back on horses and
plan on installing the wings (w/o tanks) and rig the ailerons and flaps.
A few more holes in the firewall and the engine will be installed once
again. I plan on getting as much done before I transport the plane to
the airport. If I were to do it again, I would not have put the gear on
so early.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 - Interior finally painted.
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Barnes <erbarnes(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8: Aileron Oilcanning |
>>Larry Bowen wrote:
>> I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and both ends.
>> Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the skeleton,
>> but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
>> stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How much is
>> too much?
I found looseness/oilcanning on the top of 1 ail. skin as soon as it was clecoed
to the top of the spar. What's too much,? I checked mine against a couple
RV-4's that I know to be flown to the limit, and one spot on mine had less oilcanning.
For the other spot, I added a stiffener crossways between the two normal
stiffeners.
>Jerry Calvert wrote:
>...John Brights "Oilcanning
>Skills" section on his web site <http://www.hroads.net/~john/>, and used
>it on control surfaces.
I just read this, and think all of the looseness/oilcanning I've experienced is
directly due to what Scott M. mentions - the trailing edge bend. The skin should
be in the brake evenly across the brake, and the bend is complete only when
the skin touches the spar on it's own.
With this in mind, those on the elevators/rudders should make sure the web part
of the stiffnenrs at the trailing edge end isn't too high, or the bend can't
be completed.
EB
#80131 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terry" <Gannont(at)Fracmaster.com> |
| Subject: | Building in a Single Car Garage (was RV-List Digest: 03/14/99) |
Dave - I'm building my project in a 1.5 car garage, that we still use to
park our car...so effectively, I have an L-shaped space that's probably
about one-third of the total floor space of the garage. The space 'beside'
the car is where I have the wings jigged, and I plotted out a fuselage jig
on Autocad and it will just fit as well. The space 'in front' of the car is
my work bench, etc.
Long and short of it is that it's a bit of a pain, but it works. As each
piece is finished I have to put it in storage. I'm currently making
arrangement to have the wings stored in a friend's hangar because I'm pretty
sure they won't fit down the basement stairs. My intention is to finish
each component to the greatest possible degree, and then start renting
hangar space at the last minute, so-to-speak, for final assembly
So in your case, if you have a full, one-car garage, I think you'll be in
good shape.
Cheers...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Ford
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 11:23 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 03/14/99
I am contemplating building an RV6 in my single car garage.
How far can I get with this project here in my garage before I need to move
to another location to assemble wings to fuselage? Are there times where
the wings need to be temporarily assembled? Can I do all but final assembly
right here?
Do I have all the room I need?
Dave Ford
still contemplating
Aircraft
Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of List
members.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8: Aileron Oilcanning |
Yes, it is definately oilcanning. If I push down one one area between
stiffeners, the nieghboring area "pops" up. It sounds worse than it
is because all of the clecos rattle around as it pops; even so, it is
significant.
-Larry
---Robert Dimeo wrote:
>
>
>
> Larry,
> Do you actually mean oil canning or just flexing of the skin? I
checked mine
> and there is some flexing but I would only consider it oil canning
if the metal
> "popped" in some fashion from convex to concave or made an
oil-canning noise
> when pushed on with a finger. Another kind of oil canning is when
you push on
> one part of the skin and another part rises up in response. The
skin is not
> taught so some movement will be there. After all there is only a
preimeter
> skeleton. That's why the stiffeners are there or the whole thing
would flex like
> a wet noodle.
>
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> Rv8 #423
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> >
> > I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and
both ends.
> > Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the
skeleton,
> > but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
> > stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How
much is
> > too much? Did I do this while backrivetting the stiffeners in
place? How?
> > Should I order order another skin and rebuild, or continue and
risk having
> > to rebuild the entire aileron? Advice please.....
=
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Building in garage |
Sherwin Williams two part epoxy is the best. I used it in my small engine shop
and has held up to everything. You can drag anything you want and it still
won't peel. Some strong solvents will soften it, but will re dry. Will clean
up with soap and water and look new again. Plan on two coats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder 410 brace question |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> pdsmith wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Listers:
> >
> > Dumb question but I can't find the answer in the archives, manual or from
> > George, my videotape guru.
> > Are you supposed to countersink the R410 where it attaches to the rib and
> > skin with CS4 pop rivets?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Phil
> > RV8
> >
> >
> Phil,
>
> The "CS" stands for countersunk head. It doesn't take very much of a
> countersink. I first drilled the hole with a #40, countersunk with a
> #40 countersink, then drilled it out to #30 and installed the rivets. I
> think the deburing tool would probably do a countersink that is
> satisfactory for the CS4.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
>
Phil,
After reading your question again, I want to clarify my answer. I
didn't countersink the R410, I countersunk the skin using the method in
my first post.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building in garage |
I used Ace Hardware Quick-Drying Industrial Enamel, No. 223A215 Pastel Base J.
They will mix it to your specifications, just pick a gray or whatever. I did
prepare the surface first for ideal adhesion, just like anything you paint.
Pressure wash, acid etch and neutralize. Let dry a day or two. It covers real
well and now that it is a few years old it shows minimal wear and tear. For the
price it was a good choice. To help with traction, mix some fine sand in. You
can purchase a very fine sand used for stairways, all the instructions on
amounts are included. It is a smart idea to paint the floor, it is much easier
to find all the stuff you are going to drop.
Dave Aronson, RV4, finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Fink" <Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM> |
| Subject: | Building in garage |
DuPont makes something very similar that I had good luck with in my
shop. Make sure that you etch the concrete with muratic acid (pool
acid, but make sure it isn't sulfuric acid, some people sell this for
pool acid and it will not etch the concrete), rinse and let dry very
well before painting.
It cleans up very well and still looks great after 6 months.
Scott Fink
RV6 Left wing
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building in garage
Date: 3/19/99 3:12 PM
Sherwin Williams two part epoxy is the best. I used it in my small engine shop
and has held up to everything. You can drag anything you want and it still
won't peel. Some strong solvents will soften it, but will re dry. Will clean
up with soap and water and look new again. Plan on two coats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the country in my |
RV-4
In a message dated 3/18/99 9:38:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
<< I am not sure what Uric acid does to Alum. >>
While washing military aircraft, which all drain right out the bottom, and
while performing corrosion inspections of those aircraft, no tendency was
noted for these areas to be more suseptible to corrosion. Of course, I did
not notice any lingering odor. It is possible that it was cancelled out by
the smell of Skydrol and JP-5.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Building in garage |
Builders,
Sine I am in the Construction Business - We do a lot of Fire Department
Stations.
They all seem to use a 2 part epoxy on the floor. Its seems to handle the
wear real well.
Bill
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings Closed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | vacum system questions |
I have my vacum system mostly plumbed but have run into a sticking
point. I have a 2 port vacum gauge, marked "P" and "V". Using the
diagrams in Tony Bs book I have it all plumbed, with one side of the
suction gauge plumbed to the "gauge" port on the AH. But I need to
plumb the other port to the filter side of the other gauge -- I suppose
this could be in the hose to either gauge but that's not the point --
the point is, both gauges have "gauge" ports but I _assume_ they are
both on the vacum regulator side, so the other one needs to go to a tee
or something in a hose on the filter side, right?
So far I have only been able to do by using an AN917-2 female tee, with
two AN840-6D hose nipples, an AN912 thread reducer, and an AN840-4D hose
nipple. This makes one big honkin' tee, (about 7" long!) which doesn't
really fit in there very well.
What would work best would be tee with a 1/4"NPT male thread, a 3/8"
hose nipple, and a 1/4" hose nipple. This way it could just replace the
fitting into the DG (and in fact this is what Rapco has in their
kits). I've called several places looking for something that will work
better, including Rapco who includes them in their kits, and in fact
they are the only ones who have such a thing that I can find. But they
said they're so far back-ordered on kits that they can't spare a tee.
So is there any source for a tee like this?
Or am I going about it all wrong?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 |
>
>Anyone between Minneapolis and Sacramento want
>company? I am not particularly worried about flying a straight line
>getting home. ;
)
>
Liars and Flyers is every Sat AM at MCW,( Mason City Iowa) 100 nm due south
of MSP, the food is fair, the coffee is hot and the tales are TALL. We meet
about 8:00 am All are welcome!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
Listers:
I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems expensive
at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build the
tanks??
Does this sound reasonable??
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>I'll be using a IO-360-B1E-180hp eng. with an aerobatic c/s prop.and
>light
>weight starter, engine weight is the same as O-360 but prop. comes in
>at 60#
>which is 5# heavier then reg. c/s. I would like to install the battery
>aft of
>f/w in the forward baggage comp. but was told that it would probably
>make it
>nose heavy. I'm trying to stay away from an aft cabin installation
>because of
>extra cable length, weight and ease of servicing. Your expertise
>advice would
>be appreciated
>
>Gil Theriault 80628
>
>
You could install the battery in the space on the left side just aft of
the firewall, and in front of the left gear tower.
You would only be moving the battery aft about 8 to 10 inches so the C.G.
shift would be small, but you could do a sample weight and balance of
both scenarios with the difference in the two props. It may be just
enough to counter the extra 5 lbs at the prop since the standard
battery's with tray and hardware weigh around 25 lbs.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: vacum system questions |
>
>I have my vacum system mostly plumbed but have run into a sticking
>point. I have a 2 port vacum gauge, marked "P" and "V". Using the
>diagrams in Tony Bs book I have it all plumbed, with one side of the
>suction gauge plumbed to the "gauge" port on the AH. But I need to
>plumb the other port to the filter side of the other gauge -- I
>suppose
>this could be in the hose to either gauge but that's not the point --
>the point is, both gauges have "gauge" ports but I _assume_ they are
>both on the vacum regulator side, so the other one needs to go to a
>tee
>or something in a hose on the filter side, right?
>
Maybe...
Many of the vacuum gages that are available now a have a pressure
(vacuum) port labeled P and a vent port labeled V. Many of these gages
don't have a airflow through them when vacuum is applied. As a result
you don't need the V port connected to a filter. It is kind of like a
static port only for the vacuum gage. It uses the pressure sensed at the
vent port as a reference level for the vacuum indication.
If you just want to be safe and connect it to a filter anyway what is
often done is use a small clear plastic type of inline fuel filter
connected to it with a small hose. Then you don't need to mess with
tieing it in to the filter system.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 / Fuel Sender / Platenuts |
>Hello,
>
>Maybe the pro seal has gotten to me but I can't connect on what screws
>and
>platenuts I need to attach the Vans fuel sender (Stewart Warner) to
>the
>tank.
>
>It is not in the box with the sender and it is not on my plans.
>
>Thanks
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 Wings
>
>
The parts are not included in the kit nor are they called out in the
plans, because builders use many different brands of fuel gage/sender
combinations.
If using the senders supplied by vans a standard 8-32 screw and K-1000-08
plate nuts work fine.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
Len,
It took me about half that time to do my tanks. You can see and read about
my experience on the tanks on my website.
Bill Pagan
"The original and only -8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Listers:
>
>I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems expensive
>at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build the
>tanks??
>
>Does this sound reasonable??
>
>Len
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
Len; Do it yourself; its just not that big a deal.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Listers:
>
>I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems
>expensive
>at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build
>the
>tanks??
>
>Does this sound reasonable??
>
>Len
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv-6 wing main spar |
i am confused on bolt location on main spar setup prior to
riviting.what stations do the bolts go in ? also the plans show washers on
some bolts and none on others.do all bolts get washers under the head and one
under the nut? please reply as soon as possiable.
tcrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Props And Piston Ring Flutter |
I was reading on the lycoming site a document that seemed to indicate that
you can get piston ring flutter ( which eventually cracks the piston ring )
if you are going at a moderate cruise ( say 23 manifold, 2300 RPM ) and you
pull the pressure back to say 12 and increase the RPM's close to red-line.
You will get a tremendous amount of aerodynamic braking from the prop, is
this what is causing the ring flutter ? Or is it the rapid cooling of the
engine that causes ring flutter. I am wondering how much prop aerodynamic
braking I can acutally do before it becomes bad for the engine.
Can anybody with a CHT gauge tell me how long it takes them when going 23 or
24 square to pull back to 12in manifold pressure without doing shock cooling
damage to the engine ? ( assume about 50 degrees Farenheit outside
conditions.) .
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
N345RV RV6A 125TT ( lycoming 0-360 constant speed prop)
RV8A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/18/99 |
For all of the RV6 owners out there--how much room do you have for baggage?
What are the usable dimensions? Is there enough room for a set of golf clubs?
Two
sets of golf clubs? I'd like to get some practical use out of the plane I decide
to build.
Thanks to all who will respond.
Dave Ford
dford(at)michweb.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
Hi Len, it really depends on whether you have more time than money or vice
versa.
If you have lots of time but a limited budget, do them yourself!
On the other hand, if like myself, you are very busy, than go ahead and have
them made.
I just got my tanks back from Don London two weeks ago and I am very happy
with his work.
He did a great job, he pressure tested them, and he guaranteed them not to
leak.
If you account for the cost of the materials, I figured it came out to $8-10
per hour. I am a very busy guy and I have difficulty finding enough time to
progress at a reasonable pace on my RV-8. My time is worth far more to me
than $10/hour. So for ME it was a good deal. While Don was working on my
tanks, I was able to do more work on the rest of the wings. When I got the
tanks back it gave myself and the plane a great boost.
Sylvain
RV-8 #80047
-----Original Message-----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 7:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp)
>
>Listers:
>
>I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems
expensive
>at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build the
>tanks??
>
>Does this sound reasonable??
>
>Len
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: vacum system questions |
In a message dated 3/19/99 6:06:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, randall(at)edt.com
writes:
<< I have my vacuum system mostly plumbed but have run into a sticking
point. I have a 2 port vacuum gauge, marked "P" and "V". Using the
diagrams in Tony Bs book I have it all plumbed, with one side of the
suction gauge plumbed to the "gauge" port on the AH. But I need to
plumb the other port to the filter side of the other gauge -- I suppose
this could be in the hose to either gauge but that's not the point --
the point is, both gauges have "gauge" ports but I _assume_ they are
both on the vacuum regulator side, so the other one needs to go to a tee
or something in a hose on the filter side, right?
So far I have only been able to do by using an AN917-2 female tee, with
two AN840-6D hose nipples, an AN912 thread reducer, and an AN840-4D hose
nipple. This makes one big honkin' tee, (about 7" long!) which doesn't
really fit in there very well.
What would work best would be tee with a 1/4"NPT male thread, a 3/8"
hose nipple, and a 1/4" hose nipple. >>
This is a standard Airborne part. I bought one from Wag Aero about a year
ago, but I see by looking in their recent catalog, that they have dropped
them. You may want to call them. I believe the Airborne P/N is 1K31-4-6-4.
Using this fitting removes the pressure drop error which occurs across the
intake filter (about 0.5 inHg) and produces a more accurate indication of what
the gyros are actually seeing. If you vent the suction gauge to any other
source you are likely getting an erroneous high indication which might delay
your replacing the intake filter.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
from: Mail Delivery Subsystem
| Subject: | Mail Delivery Problem |
Sorry rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com. Your mail to jballen96 could not be delivered
because jballen96 is not accepting mail with attachments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron twist |
The pipe could be the cause. It is worth looking at. Why don't you remove
the pipe and clecoe everything back together and see if the spar still
lifts. That way you will not need to re-drill the pipe unnecessarily.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Dear Listers: I have assembled with clecoes my aileron
skeletons. When I lay
the right one on my flat table the outboard spar is one
quarter inch off the
surface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Von.
Just tape a 8" length of yarn to the windshield
like we glider people do..
Stew RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin |
<< I am now trying
to come up with a method of securing the hinge halves in the middle so they
will not come loose. Also, I am wondering how I am going to get the hinge
pins in once the top wing skins are on. It seems the hinge pins will have to
be inserted with the flap dropped down so I can get in between the flap
leading edge and the wing top skin trailing edge. >>
One way to attach the hinge pins... Put a nutplate on the flap brace (in the
center, where the two bent up hinge pins meet). Take two single hinge
sections, slide one down over each bent up hinge pin, then drill a hole in the
tab on each one so you can screw them to your new nutplate. As far as final
assembly, it is a little tight back there, but with a little finesse, a
screwdriver, and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers, you can get it all
assembled with the flap in the drooped positions.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 03/18/99 |
<< For all of the RV6 owners out there--how much room do you have for
baggage?
What are the usable dimensions? Is there enough room for a set of golf
clubs? Two
sets of golf clubs? I'd like to get some practical use out of the plane I
decide to build. >>
20" high to the top of the fuselage rails (you've got another foot or so if
you wanna stack stuff higher). 23" front to back (up to 8" more if you want
to have stuff overhanging your flap mechanism), 40" wide at the front and 36"
wide at the back.
You could modify the rear of the baggage compartment to allow for longer
packages, certainly golf clubs would fit. However, unless you have a heavy
engine/prop combo, 2 sets of golf clubs *might* cause a bit of a tail heavy
condition.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-6 wing main spar |
Leave yourself 21 inches to slide into the fuselage f-604.
This can be proven on the bottom of dwg#15. You need to be clean out to the
skin.
Tom -6 canopy.
-----Original Message-----
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com <TCRV6(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 11:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-6 wing main spar
>
>
> i am confused on bolt location on main spar setup prior to
>riviting.what stations do the bolts go in ? also the plans show washers on
>some bolts and none on others.do all bolts get washers under the head and
one
>under the nut? please reply as soon as possiable.
>
> tcrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Need Help - Slider Anguish |
I've got the roll bar bolted on, and the brace is bolted in too. I have
convinced the canopy frame to fit the fuselage profle , but there is just one
little problem: The gap between the canopy frame and the rollbar goes from
1/8" at the bottom (caused by the roller weldments) to about 1/2 inch at the
top. The 1/2 inch gap at the top is ugly, and the latch mechanism won't work
with that size gap. I've checked the roll bar for plumb, and it is - the
canopy frame is the problem.
Here are 3 ideas I've come up with, and their disadvantages:
1) Fabricate a new latch arm to deal with the increased gap, but this seems
shoddy.
2) Rebend the canopy frame to take out this problem. The only problem is that
I can't figure out how to bend the frame in this direction.
3) Adjust the roll bar so it matches the canopy frame. This won't be a joyous
mod, because it will mean lengthening the slot in the top skin, shortening the
roll bar brace (AGAIN!.. geez, can't they cut this stuff to fit?. Also, how
about just a few more dimensions on those canopy plans!), Drilling new bolt
holes, etc.
Number 3 is where I think I'm headed.
Any other suggestions?
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Props And Piston Ring Flutter |
This from SkyRanch Engineering Manual by John Schwaner:
Pg. 146 Para:1 under the heading "Descent"
"You do not want to do a long let-down with the prop driving the engine.
This causes ring flutter and broken piston rings. High rpm's increase the
up and down inertia load on the rings in the piston ring grooves. Cylinder
preassures help to keep the ring seated to the bottom of the ring groove.
Reducing rpm to low cruise will be beneficial by ruducing ring inertia and
increasing cylinder preasures. Of course at some time, as on final, the
prop will be driving the engine and this is okay. A long descent at high
rpm and low manifold pressure is hard on the piston rings." Get "The
Book" AL
>
>I was reading on the lycoming site a document that seemed to indicate that
>you can get piston ring flutter ( which eventually cracks the piston ring )
>if you are going at a moderate cruise ( say 23 manifold, 2300 RPM ) and you
>pull the pressure back to say 12 and increase the RPM's close to red-line.
>You will get a tremendous amount of aerodynamic braking from the prop, is
>this what is causing the ring flutter ? Or is it the rapid cooling of the
>engine that causes ring flutter. I am wondering how much prop aerodynamic
>braking I can acutally do before it becomes bad for the engine.
>
>Can anybody with a CHT gauge tell me how long it takes them when going 23 or
>24 square to pull back to 12in manifold pressure without doing shock cooling
>damage to the engine ? ( assume about 50 degrees Farenheit outside
>conditions.) .
>
>Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
>N345RV RV6A 125TT ( lycoming 0-360 constant speed prop)
> RV8A Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <rvsixer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help - Slider Anguish |
>
>2) Rebend the canopy frame to take out this problem. The only problem is
that
>I can't figure out how to bend the frame in this direction.
To bend the canopy in this manner, I placed the canopy frame on the garage
floor with the bow on the ground (i.e. first lay the frame down on the floor
like it would sit on the airplane, then lift up by the rear bow till the
front bow rests flat on the floor).
I then stepped on the bar/floor where the front bow and top bar meet,
grabbed the frame at the rear bow, and grunted alot while pulling/pushing
the top bar as necessary to get the bow/rollover bar angle correct.
Of course, when this angle is correct, it will change 4 other things that
lined up perfectly before .
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | "Boycott JPI" flyer available |
I'm making up the flyer for an EAA "Hanger Session" at my place. I
took the opportunity to make a one page summary of JPI's outlandish
behavior, and printed that on the back of the flyer. This will, I hope,
help spread the word about JPI.
The "Boycott JPI" portion of the flyer is available for anybody who
wants to use it (airshows, meetings, fly ins, bulletin boards, etc). You
can download a copy from my web site. Simply go to
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a and click on any of the numerous
"Boycott JPI" links. Scroll to the bottom of the "Boycott JPI" page for
links to the flyer download (Word 97 and Rich Text Format are both
available).
Thanks,
Tim "Boycott JPI" Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-6 wing main spar |
Hi TC:
Look on drawing 12 of your plans. At the bottom of this sheet you will see
a drawing of the spar that shows the locations of the ribs with dimensions
noted in reference to the wing root reference point on the spar. All of the
bolts that will be inserted are noted by a darkened hole. Each of these
darkened holes will also have a dimension from it to the wing root reference
point. I used these measurements, as well as cross-referencing them by just
counting the number of holes between bolt locations.
As to the washers, I do not have washers under the heads of the bolts. You
will see that there is little room if any for them as the bolts are
sometimes close to the web of the rib attachment angles.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings....Aileron and tank to go on the left wing
Peshtigo, Wi
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 10:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-6 wing main spar
>
>
> i am confused on bolt location on main spar setup prior to
>riviting.what stations do the bolts go in ? also the plans show washers on
>some bolts and none on others.do all bolts get washers under the head and
one
>under the nut? please reply as soon as possiable.
>
> tcrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark <wx3o(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Shop Floor Paint |
I have used three different paints on my shop floor at the Eastern
Regional Flight Simulator facility at Dobbins Air Reserve Base. Results
as follows:
Sherwin Williams polyurethane: Nice finish. Paint with a roller and
use a respirator. Will wear through fairly quickly in your walkways.
Will not stand up to many chemicals i.e., brake fluid, hydraulic fluid
etc. Will not stand heat such as parking a car with very warm tires on
it. Price about $22 gallon
InsulTile II: This is an epoxy. Get it at an automotive paint store.
Goes on with a roller andwear a respirator! Fumes will roll your socks
down until it sets up. Very shiny finish. Clean up with denatured
alchohol. TOUGH finish. We drive forklifts on it and it also stands up
to chemicals. You NEED to add the special anti-skid grit that they sell
with it for an extra 4 bucks. Price (2 gallon set) about $70.
InsulTile water-based Epoxy: Much safer to apply. Respirator
technically not required, but its your lungs! Clean up with water. Add
the anti skid! (or bust your tail, ask me how I know) Not as shiny as
the regular epoxy. Very tough finish. Also about $70 for a two gallon
set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help - Slider Anguish |
> 3) Adjust the roll bar so it matches the canopy frame. This won't be a
> joyous mod, because it will mean lengthening the slot in the top skin,
> shortening the roll bar brace (AGAIN!.. geez, can't they cut this stuff to
> fit?. Also, how about just a few more dimensions on those canopy plans!),
> Drilling new bolt holes, etc.
>
> Number 3 is where I think I'm headed.
Concur. I didn't do that, and ended up with the back of the frame a bit
higher than I would have liked, which made the canopy/aft fuselage
gap more difficult to cover. I ended up doing a fiberglass layup back
there. Twice. Disgusting job.
I think you are on the right track. It'll save you more worries later.
Tim Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vacum system questions |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> I have my vacum system mostly plumbed but have run into a sticking
> point. I have a 2 port vacum gauge, marked "P" and "V". Using the
> diagrams in Tony Bs book I have it all plumbed, with one side of the
> suction gauge plumbed to the "gauge" port on the AH. But I need to
> plumb the other port to the filter side of the other gauge -- I suppose
> this could be in the hose to either gauge but that's not the point --
> the point is, both gauges have "gauge" ports but I _assume_ they are
> both on the vacum regulator side, so the other one needs to go to a tee
> or something in a hose on the filter side, right?
>
> So far I have only been able to do by using an AN917-2 female tee, with
> two AN840-6D hose nipples, an AN912 thread reducer, and an AN840-4D hose
> nipple. This makes one big honkin' tee, (about 7" long!) which doesn't
> really fit in there very well.
>
> What would work best would be tee with a 1/4"NPT male thread, a 3/8"
> hose nipple, and a 1/4" hose nipple. This way it could just replace the
> fitting into the DG (and in fact this is what Rapco has in their
> kits). I've called several places looking for something that will work
> better, including Rapco who includes them in their kits, and in fact
> they are the only ones who have such a thing that I can find. But they
> said they're so far back-ordered on kits that they can't spare a tee.
> So is there any source for a tee like this?
>
> Or am I going about it all wrong?
>
Randall, I was unable to come up with any reason to hook anything up to the
vent hole in my unpressurized cabin installation. I just hooked the P hole up
to the dg gage hole and was done with it. Works fine. No flow occurs through
the gage so I saw no need ot filtering the stagnant air at the in hole(V).
As for the gage hole in the att gyro, I left it plugged.
Works fine for me and the logic works but I stand ready to hear from the
experts. When you do hear from the experts be wary if they tell you to hook
the gage line up to the V hole. It goes to teh P hole. Ryan Bendure
straightened me out on that.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-6 wing main spar |
TCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> i am confused on bolt location on main spar setup prior to
> riviting.what stations do the bolts go in ? also the plans show washers on
> some bolts and none on others.do all bolts get washers under the head and one
> under the nut? please reply as soon as possiable.
>
> tcrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
Look at plans sheet #20 on the upper left corner. It gives the stations
for all bolts. When I built my spar, I put the bolts in all locations
that will have a bolt so I wouldn't put a rivet in by mistake. Get some
hardware store wing nuts to hold everything tight while riveting. I
also used a C-clamp next to the rivet being whacked to hold the flange
strips tight. Use a rivet gauge to check rivet lengths before and after
setting the rivet. The only rivets that I cut were the ones that went
through the spacer angles(don't forget to put these on before whacking a
rivet in those holes!). All the other rivets were OK in length.
Usually, there is a washer under the nut. One or two washers under the
nut will take care of the spar bolts. You need at least one thread
showing and no more than three. After a nut is torqued, I put a dab of
my wife's fingernail polish on it to mark it. Trust me, an untorqued
nut and a torqued nut look just alike! Do yourself a favor and mark
them as you go.
Hope this helps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <rvsixer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Boycott JPI" flyer available |
>
>I'm making up the flyer for an EAA "Hanger Session" at my place. I
>took the opportunity to make a one page summary of JPI's outlandish
>behavior, and printed that on the back of the flyer. This will, I hope,
>help spread the word about JPI.
Thanks Tim! My EAA chapter meeting is tomorrow, and I'll be passing this
around.
What a shame, I work right across the street from JPI. It would have been
great to do local business with them, but I could not have purchased a
product anything like Matt's from JPI, so why the heck are they attacking
him?
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, Electronics International gauges on order).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
David Ford wrote:
>
>
> For all of the RV6 owners out there--how much room do you have for baggage?
> What are the usable dimensions? Is there enough room for a set of golf clubs?
Two
> sets of golf clubs? I'd like to get some practical use out of the plane I decide
to build.
> Thanks to all who will respond.
>
> Dave Ford
> dford(at)michweb.net
>
Dave,
There's a -6 builder in Bethany, Oklahoma that built a compartment for
his golf club bag to slide in to. About half the bag will be in the
baggage area and the other half down in the compartment. The plane
isn't flying yet, so I don't know if it will cause c.g. problems.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin |
riveter wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I am using the split hinge method where I cut my flap hinge pins in half and
> bend a right angle on the end for insertion from the middle. I am now trying
> to come up with a method of securing the hinge halves in the middle so they
> will not come loose. Also, I am wondering how I am going to get the hinge
> pins in once the top wing skins are on. It seems the hinge pins will have to
> be inserted with the flap dropped down so I can get in between the flap
> leading edge and the wing top skin trailing edge. Then I would have to
> secure the hing pins and raise the flap up past the wing skin in trail with
> the wing. I am thinking the tight fit of the flap leading edge to the wing
> skin will make it difficult or impossible. Maybe one of you can advise me on
> this.
>
I used the split hinge pin method also. I bent the end of the pin
into an eyelet and saftywired the eyelets to the flap brace.
It is tight working in there, but it can be done, and more importantly
it only has to be done once.....Hopefully.
As an added safty measure, I drilled a 1/16 hole in the last hinge eyelet
next to the aileron and put a cotter pin in it. That way
the hinge pin cannot move out and interfere with the aileron, something
you don't want.
Checking for the cotter pin is on the preflight checklist.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Props And Piston Ring Flutter |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> This from SkyRanch Engineering Manual by John Schwaner:
> Pg. 146 Para:1 under the heading "Descent"
>
> "You do not want to do a long let-down with the prop driving the engine.
> This causes ring flutter and broken piston rings. High rpm's increase the
> up and down inertia load on the rings in the piston ring grooves. Cylinder
> preassures help to keep the ring seated to the bottom of the ring groove.
snip
Who am I to question Lycoming? But: what happens to the rings on each
intake stroke? Is this more of a high-RPM issue?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Glasair Super II S for sale |
Listers,
Does anyone know anyone that is interested in a Glasair Super II S. My father
wants to sell his kit. The kit includes the fuselage (85% done), the tail (95%
done), the wings (not started yet), the jigs for the wings and the fuselage.
The gear and finish kit are not included. Price: $15k firm, you pick up.
Please have them call 561-748-2429.
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin |
jerry calvert wrote:
> > Listers,
> > I am using the split hinge method where I cut my flap hinge pins in half and
> > bend a right angle on the end for insertion from the middle. I am now trying
> > to come up with a method of securing the hinge halves in the middle so they
> > will not come loose. Also, I am wondering how I am going to get the hinge
> > pins in once the top wing skins are on. It seems the hinge pins will have to
> > be inserted with the flap dropped down so I can get in between the flap
> > leading edge and the wing top skin trailing edge. Then I would have to
> > secure the hing pins and raise the flap up past the wing skin in trail with
> > the wing. I am thinking the tight fit of the flap leading edge to the wing
> > skin will make it difficult or impossible. Maybe one of you can advise me on
> > this.
Jerry - I looked at the split hinge method and thought that it was getting too
'busy' for a simple job. I used one piece hinge pins and with a 90 degree bend
1
1/4 " long on one end. I drilled the correct sized hole for the pin through the
inner aileron hinge bracket and by lowering the aileron there is enough room to
slid the hinge pin through the aileron bracket and into the hinge for the flap.
I
secured the flap hinge pin by using safety wire around the bent end of the hinge
pin. This required another very small hole to be drilled in the aileron bracket.
The safety wire goes through the hole in the aileron bracket, around the bent end
of the hinge pin, and back around the outside edge of the aileron hinge bracket
and is twisted back on itself. KIS
DGM RV-6 Cowling is finally on where it should be and ready for fiberglass.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | seatbelt rules ? |
Hi all,
I'm just finishing up the floor section of my -8, and I've heard that
aerobatic contestants are required to have a second lap belt that
attaches to a different location from the main belt. Now first off,
don't get the idea that I'm planning an aerobatic career around the
RV-8. I would simply like the option of competing in basic aerobatics
if the mood ever strikes me. Also, since the plane will have full
inverted systems, a second seat belt just seems like a good idea for
those occasions where negative G's are planned.
Now the question is: What is the definition of a different mounting
location for the safety belt? Can it be another mount riveted to the
same floor rib, or does it have to be attached to a different rib? Is
the actual rule posted online somewhere?
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (bulkheads and floor done, building fuselage jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Wheel Pants & Tire Clearances |
I have searched the archives with little success. I found one posting
suggesting a 1/2" clearance between the tire and wheel pants. I am building
an RV4 and using the two piece wheel pants from Van's. I couldn't find any
mention in the plans for a recommended clearance. I apparently misplaced any
supplemental instructions that may have come with the two part wheel pants.
For those of you who have been flying a while, what tire clearances have
you
found to work well? Side clearance? Front and Back Clearance?
Your help will be appreciated
Tom Brown
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
RV4 - finishing the plumbing, starting the fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Details |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Craig,
depends on what kind of plastic you use. Nylon works much better than the
common polyethelene.
Regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Summers <stuartrv(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Australian RV6 builder |
Brisbane, Australia , based RV6a builder wishes to contact RV6 builders
who will be at Oshkosh 99.
Regards
Stuart Summers
S/N 24788
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main spar |
Can someone tell me where I can find specifications in the plans for the
angles on the ribs to the main spar. I've looked everywhere, can't find the
measurements and details for tapering. also whats the best way to drill these
holes? Listers help greatly apprecciated-------------- J.F. McNulty
mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Wheel Pants & Tire Clearances |
> For those of you who have been flying a while, what tire clearances
have you
> found to work well? Side clearance? Front and Back Clearance?
> Your help will be appreciated
>
> Tom Brown
> RV4Brown(at)aol.com
> RV4 - finishing the plumbing, starting the fiberglass
My 1-pc pants have at most 1/4 inch on the sides; low tire pressure &
the sidewalls rub the pants (no ill effects). Front & back have more
space, because the 1-pc must slide over the tire's diameter. I have no
rear bulkhead & have had no problems with mud flying off a grass strip.
Ice isn't an issue down here.
Hope this helps.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
By removing my right seat (back only) I can get my clubs in the plane without
a problem. Just make sure they don't interfere with the movement of the stick.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Empenage kit for Sale |
Empenage kit for sale RV-6A - 3 months old. Rear spar complete and primed.
Everything else is still in the orig. box. Included are the following:
Electric Trim
for elevator in orig. box. 500 New Clecoes- 3/32+1/8 still in plastic. Avery
heavy duty rivet squeezer (one month old) with dimple and rivet dies. Empenage
construction tape. 4x4 aluminum jig. I will deliver in the New York City Tri
State area
$1500.00 takes all. I lost my medical.
Regards,
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main sp |
Hi J.F.
You did not say what model you are building. On my 6A, the rib attachment
angle length is noted on sheet 20, up at the top-middle of the sheet.
Length of the angles is 7 5/8". Taper of them is up to you...it is an
option. Just don't compromise edge distances for the holes that will be
drilled to attach the angle to the rib.
As to drilling the holes, this is a critical step, as the angles will
determine the locations of your ribs, and thus if the ribs will line up with
your prepunched skins. No pressure here! What I did was to clamp the ribs
to the angles and then position the ribs on the spar with the called out
dimensions for each rib station, and then verified that with the skins.
Once you are set with the rib locations, clamp the rib angle securely and
drill the first hole. Then insert a hardware store bolt, washer and nut in
this hole, make sure that all is in proper alignment, and drill the second
hole. Make sure that when you locate your ribs that they are square top and
bottom to the rib.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
wings
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 6:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main sp
>
>
>Can someone tell me where I can find specifications in the plans for the
>angles on the ribs to the main spar. I've looked everywhere, can't find the
>measurements and details for tapering. also whats the best way to drill
these
>holes? Listers help greatly apprecciated-------------- J.F. McNulty
>mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants & Tire Clearances |
Allow a finger width of clearance all around and you'll be fine.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> I have searched the archives with little success. I found one
>posting
>suggesting a 1/2" clearance between the tire and wheel pants. I am
>building
>an RV4 and using the two piece wheel pants from Van's. I couldn't find
>any
>mention in the plans for a recommended clearance. I apparently
>misplaced any
>supplemental instructions that may have come with the two part wheel
>pants.
> For those of you who have been flying a while, what tire
>clearances have you
>found to work well? Side clearance? Front and Back Clearance?
> Your help will be appreciated
>
>Tom Brown
>RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>RV4 - finishing the plumbing, starting the fiberglass
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Props And Piston Ring Flutter |
Charlie,
An intake stroke is one of four strokes, intake, compression, cumbustion,
and exhaust. It is the only stroke that the rings may very well travel to
the top of the groove on. The other three have them compressed to the
bottom of the ring groove. When you have some power (fuel) to the cylinders
this is the case. However if you pull the power back and let the prop drive
the engine you are now doubling the times the rings hit the top of the
grooves and may cause them to flutter and break if this condition is set up
enough times and the duration is long enough. I don't really have all the
answers so I hope some else can add this. If not you may want to E-mail
John Schwaner at skyranch and get his thoughts on it. Al
>
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>>
>>
>> This from SkyRanch Engineering Manual by John Schwaner:
>> Pg. 146 Para:1 under the heading "Descent"
>>
>> "You do not want to do a long let-down with the prop driving the engine.
>> This causes ring flutter and broken piston rings. High rpm's increase the
>> up and down inertia load on the rings in the piston ring grooves. Cylinder
>> preassures help to keep the ring seated to the bottom of the ring groove.
>snip
>
>
>Who am I to question Lycoming? But: what happens to the rings on each
>intake stroke? Is this more of a high-RPM issue?
>
>Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main spar |
Mcnu93945(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Can someone tell me where I can find specifications in the plans for the
> angles on the ribs to the main spar. I've looked everywhere, can't find the
> measurements and details for tapering. also whats the best way to drill these
> holes? Listers help greatly apprecciated-------------- J.F. McNulty
> mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>
Plan sheet #20 at middle of top of page. It's hidden amungst a bunch of
rivet spacing call-outs. The angles are 7 5/8" with a 1 3/4" rivet
spacing. Cleco the nose rib to spar and secure it perpendicular to
spar. Clamp angle to rib and spar and drill bolt holes. Some builders
just drill right through the flange holes with a 3/16" bit. I didn't
want to enlarge the bolt holes so I did the following: I have a 1 1/2"
piece of 3/16" o.d. & 5/32" i.d. brass tubing(hardware or hobby store
stuff). Once the angle is secured in position, slide the brass tube in
the hole and drill all the way through angle with a 5/32" bit. Then
pull the brass tube out and run a 3/16" bit through the hole. The brass
tube takes all the abuse of the initial drilling and keeps bolt hole
from getting wallowed out. Temporarily bolt the angle to spar and drill
through the AN4 rivet holes in angle and through the nose rib. Take
angle and rib off spar, cleanup holes, prime, and rivet angle to rib.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron spar lightening holes |
Hi Gang:
Not that it really matters, but I am finding a discrepancy in the plans.
Drawing 16, on the upper right corner, shows the first lightening hole for
the aileron spar as being 4 3/4 inches from the root end of the spar, but I
measure the drawing as being 4 1/4. Who do I believe? What's a guy to
do??!!
What measurement did everyone use here? I am leaning toward 4 1/4 inches,
as I get a bit close to the tip end of the spar and subsequent reinforcing
plates with starting at the 4 3/4 inch mark. Thanks folks.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spar lightening holes |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Not that it really matters, but I am finding a discrepancy in the plans.
> Drawing 16, on the upper right corner, shows the first lightening hole for
> the aileron spar as being 4 3/4 inches from the root end of the spar, but I
> measure the drawing as being 4 1/4. Who do I believe? What's a guy to
> do??!!
>
> What measurement did everyone use here? I am leaning toward 4 1/4 inches,
> as I get a bit close to the tip end of the spar and subsequent reinforcing
> plates with starting at the 4 3/4 inch mark. Thanks folks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A 25171
> Wings
> Peshtigo, WI
>
Jeff,
My ailerons are closed up so I can't measure, but I do remember
adjusting the holes some to get it to come out right. The biggy to
watch out for on the aileron spar is the bow. After cutting the
lightning holes, I noticed the spar had a bow in it like a banana. I
worked it back straight before drilling to skin.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Dave,
Take at look at what I've done to modify my -6A to carry skis:
http://www.villagenet.com/~scottg/skirack.html
You should be able to modify this arrangement to carry golf clubs. Onw word
of warning, with this much weight aft, a C/S prop is basically required.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>David Ford wrote:
>>
>>
>> For all of the RV6 owners out there--how much room do you have for baggage?
>> What are the usable dimensions? Is there enough room for a set of golf
clubs? Two
>> sets of golf clubs? I'd like to get some practical use out of the plane
I decide to build.
>> Thanks to all who will respond.
>>
>> Dave Ford
>> dford(at)michweb.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin |
In a message dated 3/20/99 10:48:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net writes:
<< I used one piece hinge pins and with a 90 degree bend 1
1/4 " long on one end. I drilled the correct sized hole for the pin through
the
inner aileron hinge bracket and by lowering the aileron there is enough room
to
slid the hinge pin through the aileron bracket and into the hinge for the
flap. I
secured the flap hinge pin by using safety wire around the bent end of the
hinge
pin. This required another very small hole to be drilled in the aileron
bracket.
The safety wire goes through the hole in the aileron bracket, around the bent
end
of the hinge pin, and back around the outside edge of the aileron hinge
bracket
and is twisted back on itself. >>
I did something similar, but even simpler IMO. I just ran a straight hinge
pin thru a .120 hole drilled in the inboard aileron hinge bracket and then
tapped the hole to receive a 6-32 stainless steel set screw with a little
Loctite 222. This closes off the hole and the pin is now captive on both
ends. It hasn't budged so much as an RCH in 180 hrs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main spar |
on page 10 the plans show the wing, what are the angles for that are halfway
or midway between rib stations 114.25 103.5 93.5 thanks j.f. mcnulty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers:
I've about worn out the archives on this question, but it seems as though everyone
but me knows the answers. Vans calls out a polyester resin with 3/4 oz. mat
fiberglass to bed in the cowling hinges. My research tells me that when the
polyester resin contacts the mat the binder breaks down and a bonding action takes
place - no problem - except that I have the West Epoxy System. I know that the
epoxy will work BUT do I still use a fiberglas mat to bed the hinge in or can I
use
BID cloth (that I already have for wrapping the gear legs). Another question -
I
tried sanding the inside of the cowl to prepare it for the bonding process and
found it to be almost sticky. It really gums up the sand paper and doesn't make
much headway as for removing the sheen. Have any of you run across this problem?
Your advice will be promptly used and very much appreciated. BOY- am I glad that
I
am not building a compost aircraft!!
DGM RV-6 Just need to install hinge strips to the cowl so I can get to the more
baffling jobs.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spar lightening holes |
Jeff Orear wrote:
> Not that it really matters, but I am finding a discrepancy in the plans.
> Drawing 16, on the upper right corner, shows the first lightening hole for
> the aileron spar as being 4 3/4 inches from the root end of the spar, but I
> measure the drawing as being 4 1/4. Who do I believe? What's a guy to
> do??!!
Look at The Bunny's Guide <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm>
-- I seem to recall that the drawing shows a L aileron whilst the rest
of the drawing is for the R aileron (or vice versa).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | seatbelt rules ? |
Russell,
The 2nd belt is an IAC rule that no longer applies to the Basic or Sportsman
classes. I'm not sure about Intermediate. But like you suggest, the 2nd
belt makes you feel better upside down whether it's required or not. You
can check with the IAC for the specifics, but the intent is to have the
attach points on independent load paths. You don't want the 2nd attach
point to be affected if the 1st attach point or its associated structure
fails. Using the same rib probably would not provide that independence. In
my Citabria the 1st belt is attached to the seat-to-floor attachment. The
2nd goes thru the floor and is wrapped around a fuselage tube.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm just finishing up the floor section of my -8, and I've heard that
> aerobatic contestants are required to have a second lap belt that
> attaches to a different location from the main belt. Now first off,
> don't get the idea that I'm planning an aerobatic career around the
> RV-8. I would simply like the option of competing in basic aerobatics
> if the mood ever strikes me. Also, since the plane will have full
> inverted systems, a second seat belt just seems like a good idea for
> those occasions where negative G's are planned.
>
> Now the question is: What is the definition of a different mounting
> location for the safety belt? Can it be another mount riveted to the
> same floor rib, or does it have to be attached to a different rib? Is
> the actual rule posted online somewhere?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/20/99 9:37:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net writes:
<< Another question - I
tried sanding the inside of the cowl to prepare it for the bonding process
and
found it to be almost sticky. It really gums up the sand paper and doesn't
make
much headway as for removing the sheen. Have any of you run across this
problem? >>
This is the wax that is in the finishing resin to allow it to surface cure.
It needs to be removed to get down to the polyester. Sanding and solvent
wiping is the only way to get this off that I know of.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
Listers,
I just read John Deakin's column on Av-Web about Manifold pressure. I have
seen several listers that did not exactly understand this issue, so I am
posting this here. If you have any questions about Manifold Pressure, read
it! I don't always agree with everything John say's in his column, ( I know
him and he would be disappointed if I did) but this is a excellent
explaination.
http://www.avweb.com/articles/pelperch/pelp0015.html
You may have to sign up for Av-Web to get there, I am not sure. If you are
not signed up and reading Av-Web you should be. I know all you pilots are
big spenders, but you can afford this, it is FREE. Further, I have never
recieved any spam that I could attribute to signing up there.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | experimental plane crash/ in florida |
Can somebody in florida let the list know what happened down there. just saw
news and it looked like one of vans aircraft went down in florida. they said
something about engine trouble. I hope it wasn't an rv but it looked like one.
thanks J.F. McNulty mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building in garage - floor paint |
Bill Costello wrote:
>
> My question is, who knows a really good paint to use to paint the floor.........
I've painted four floors in my house/garage areas with four different
paints:
Garage - two part epoxy from Iowa paint. Primer coat plus finish coat.
It has held up very good, and is very nice when wiping up spilled oil.
Seems to be quite hard, and has not scuffed. Rather expensive. Produced
a nice glossy finish. Strong fumes.
Shop - Water borne epoxy from Menards (Home Depot equivalent). This
paint costs $38 for two 1/2 gallon A and B parts. I only applied one
coat of this product, where all others had two, so some of my
dissatisfaction may be due to that. The paint is not nearly as hard as
the oil epoxies, and will scuff quite easily, but cleanup is with soap
and water. The two part kit was about $37.
Office - We used a grey latex floor paint from Lucite here. It produced
a dull finish with one coat (we planned on carpeting it when the rest of
the basement is done). Not recommended for shop areas, but was the
cheapest.
Work area - Sherwin Williams Industrial Marine Coatings Tile Clad II
This is my favorite. It produced a beautiful high gloss finish with two
coats. There is a choice of colors (I selected a very light grey), and
it has help up well, though I haven't used it heavily. It seems to
resist scuffing well. The A and B parts come in one gallon size only,
and costs about $38 per gallon. . I bought two gallons of each to cover
approx 19x19, and there is about 1/2 gallon of each left over. The fumes
are very strong, so provide plenty of ventillation. This product is my
recommendation.
I also investigated the epoxies from Diamond Vogel. I think they would
perform exceptionally well, but at $90 per gallon (and you'll need a
gallon of A and one of B), I felt the price was way too high.
When cleaning up, just plan on throwing away the roller brushes, as
you'll spend more to clean them up than their worth. You'll also need
some MEK or mineral spirits.
Hope this helps.
martin shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
CHEAP AT TWICE THE PRICE!!!!!!
lARRY, RV-6A (Tanks done in 97!) finish kit now
>
>Listers:
>
>I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems
expensive
>at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build the
>tanks??
>
>Does this sound reasonable??
>
>Len
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | instrument sub-panel? |
I am working on the instrument panel forward. Do you normally cut out the
lightening holes in the instrument sub-panel?
don mack
rv-6a
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E.I.S. Engine Monitoring |
I 2nd what Marshall said in his response. Greg (EIS owner) was great
to work with. I had some questions during installation and he was
willing to spend as much time as necessary making sure I understood
the installation exactly. Although I've only test run my engine, I
found the EIS (including fuel flow function) to work well. Hardware
was good quality, installation was not too difficult, and it works well.
The BRL (big red light) warning is a neat feature.
I too am looking forward to Greg's updated unit with simulataneous 4
CHT and 4 EGT measurement (I'd say the EIS "scan's" all 4 CHTs and
all 4 EGT's, but then those a#% h*&
s at JPI might file suit). Greg
offered (in writing) to replace/upgrade my current unit to the new
configuration with full credit given for the cost of my current unit,
including sensors. Pretty good deal, I say.
I considered Rocky Mountain's unit, but I got misinformation from
their folks on the phone, and they expressed no interest in upgrading
their product so it would monitor all 4 CHTs and EGTs simultaneously.
Over at EIS Greg's answers were 100% correct, and he expressed real
willingness to listen to the customer and incorporate suggestions into
his product. That won me over in the end.
EIS Recap:
- Nice guy
- Customer Focused Innovation
- Unit Works good
- No suits against Matt Dralle
- He's got my business!
Tim "nope, can't stand JPI" Lewis
On 16 Mar 99, at 16:10, Larry wrote:
From: "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net>
Subject: RV-List: E.I.S. Engine Monitoring
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Would like to find someone who's used the Engine Information System by
> Grand Rapids Technologies Inc. Currently this monitors 2 cylinders for
> CHT-EGT. They should have a model out soon that monitors all 4 cylinders.
> I have probes to all four cylinders and use four position switch to check
> each cylinder. I like the concept of alarm and programmable limits. the
> cost seems reasonable for this protection. If someone has experience with
> this system . I would like your impute.
>
> Larry Jenison
> RV-3 93JP
>
>
>
> --
> --
> Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives List Support
> Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Other Email
> Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
> --
>
>
>
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dimeo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8: Aileron Oilcanning |
Hmmmm... Did you bend the skin enough in the break? Does the skin touch the
spars even without the clecos in place? It should and it may solve all your
problems. I had to almost sit on my break to get the skin to bend enough. I put
a 1/8" dowl rod in the bend to keep it from flattening.
Bob
RV8#423
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> Yes, it is definately oilcanning. If I push down one one area between
> stiffeners, the nieghboring area "pops" up. It sounds worse than it
> is because all of the clecos rattle around as it pops; even so, it is
> significant.
>
> -Larry
>
> ---Robert Dimeo wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Larry,
> > Do you actually mean oil canning or just flexing of the skin? I
> checked mine
> > and there is some flexing but I would only consider it oil canning
> if the metal
> > "popped" in some fashion from convex to concave or made an
> oil-canning noise
> > when pushed on with a finger. Another kind of oil canning is when
> you push on
> > one part of the skin and another part rises up in response. The
> skin is not
> > taught so some movement will be there. After all there is only a
> preimeter
> > skeleton. That's why the stiffeners are there or the whole thing
> would flex like
> > a wet noodle.
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob
> > Rv8 #423
> >
> >
> > Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I clecoed aileron spar, skin and ribs together -- top, bottom and
> both ends.
> > > Flat on the table, I was about to drill the aileron skins to the
> skeleton,
> > > but paused to investigate the generous amount of oilcanning between
> > > stiffeners. Isn't it odd that this exists before rivetting? How
> much is
> > > too much? Did I do this while backrivetting the stiffeners in
> place? How?
> > > Should I order order another skin and rebuild, or continue and
> risk having
> > > to rebuild the entire aileron? Advice please.....
>
> =
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
In a message dated 3/21/99 10:59:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Mcnu93945(at)aol.com writes:
<< Can somebody in florida let the list know what happened down there. just
saw
news and it looked like one of vans aircraft went down in florida. they said
something about engine trouble. I hope it wasn't an rv but it looked like
one.
thanks J.F. McNulty mcnu93945(at)aol.com >>
There was a crash of a Hornet in S. Fla yesterday that had an engine problem
that crashed into a house and killed the pilot. Have not heard anything about
an RV crash.
Bernie Kerr, 6A panel and engine, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
A reader on one of the lists writes:
>The concept is that a 4 inch length of wire, at least 4 wire sizes smaller
>than the wire being protected, will work as a fusible link by heating and
>opening before the protected wire is damaged. Damage is limited to melting of
>the insulation on the fusible link plus heating of anything touching it, so
>try to isolate the link and/or insulate it with a fiberglass sleeve. Fusible
>links may be purchased at auto parts stores or made from pieces of tefzel
wire
>using crimp terminals. Fusible links are apparently used in cars to protect
>certain areas of wiring from screwdrivers dropped into the works.
I recommend that fusible links for aircraft be limited to the
24AWG and 22 AWG sizes for supplying some of the always-hot
feeds to thing like the essential bus alternate feed, electronic
ignitions in any form, electronic controlled fuel injection, and
ammeter shunts. These feeds are generally limited to 5 amps or
so max continuous demand.
I just got home from a fire-fighting trip to CA for Raytheon
and I found a good buy on silicone impregnated fiberglas sleeving
in a size 12 . . . it fits inside the insulation support barrel
on a 22-18 AWG (red) PIDG terminal. We'll be offering 24 and 22
AWG fuselinks from our website catalog as soon as I can get the
.html files revised. They will be p/n S905-xx-y where xx is
either 22 or 24 for the wire size and y is 6 for #6 screw stud,
8 for #8, 10 for #10, 25 for 1/4", 31 for 5/16", 38 for 3/8" or
50 for 1/2" ring terminal. The other end is fitted with a PIDG
butt splice for continuing on with the wire that's getting
protected.
>In my installation I wanted the breakers in the panel but this left the wires
>between the master relay and the breakers (including the panel connectors)
>unprotected. I added a fusible link to protect these wires, unlikely as a
>failure here is. Of course, since the link is about 25A and the panel
>connectors are rated at 15A per pin, a connector meltdown is still
possible if
>a short occurs in the panel....
Fuses, breakers, and/or fusible links are not needed in the location
cited . . . I have had a lot of builders suggest "master breakers"
to protect against bus shorts . . . check your installation and see
what might CAUSE the short you are guarding against. Once you find
that failure, eliminate it, don't protect against it. The trip I just
got home from was to help debug a system that was so worry-driven about
finding and annunciating every conceivable fault that system
complexity grew by 20-50 times what it should have been for this
very critical application. The end result was that the system was
over budget by 10X and unusable . . . Take care lest unjustified
worries drive complexity up and reliablity down.
>Another fusible link was added between the alternator's regulator and the
>capacitor. These links replace the high current fuses called for in Europa's
>diagram. I added fusible links on the wires controlling the master and
>starter relays for the same reason. All fusible links are on the engine side
>of the firewall (to avoid smoke in the cockpit) and are positioned to be
>easily accessed.
I wouldn't suggest that you take these out . . they don't hurt
anything but I wouldn't recommend that other folks put them in either.
Some are not needed due to absence fault that would cause them to
operate, others are not needed because your system should be designed
to eliminate the probability of faulting.
Take a look at the wiring diagrams which are downloadable at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/z8.pdf If you don't find
a fusible link on those diagrams where you think one might be
useful or necessary, let's talk about it.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
< When deprived of facts, >
< our fantasies are generally >
< much worse than reality. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Binzer" <robinzer(at)seidata.com> |
Hi listers,
Question on a Paint Shop that will do RV's? Yes, we have one here in
Madison, Indiana. It is called Aero Color (812-273-1304) owners name is
Mark Wilkerson. If you look at the March issue of Sport Aviation you
will find an article on Mark on Page 124. You also will see a sample of
his painting. He will also paint mine if I ever get it finished.
Bob Binzer - doing wings
RV-6 (N685AL) reserved
Madison, Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "toverton" <toverton(at)zapcom.net> |
Hi Doug
It is my understanding that if your cowl is polyester you should stick to
polyester resin. Generally speeking epoxy and polyester don't bond to each
other anything nearly as strong as same resin to same resin, something
about polyester being a chemical bond and epoxy being a mechanical bond.
Polyester resin is available almost everywhere, ( boat and automotive
stores and in fairly small quantities and at about 1/2 the price of epoxy.
As far as your sanding the stuff try using a wax remover to get the surface
wax of and you can use a stiff wire brush to ruff up the surface for your
bonding. Mat or cloth I don't think matters. IMHO
Hope this helps
Tom Overton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Skin Dimpling |
Hi Again Gang:
I may be suffering from my occasional bout of brain-drain here. How did you
dimple the top surface of the aileron skin?? Can it be done with the Avery
tool? Coming from the leading edge side of the skin has the problem of the
leading edge curl that is in the skin. I can see how I would be able to
reach most of the lines of rivets if I got at them from the ends of the
skin, but there is at least one line of rivets that I cannot reach with the
Avery tool. I Imagine that I can get at those that I can reach with the
Avery tool, and then use my set of dimple dies that you use with a pop-rivet
tool for the rest. Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
wings
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
>I am working on the instrument panel forward. Do you normally cut out the
>lightening holes in the instrument sub-panel?
Best to wait until after you've fitted radios and instruments. After doing
this you'll likely have enough "lightening" holes in there and any more
could be too much.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Skin Dimpling |
Hi again:
Brain-drain is cured for today. Got them dimpled over the leading edge with
no problem. As Emily Letella of Saturday Night Live would say, " Never
Mind!"
no not Archive
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings
Peshtigo, Wi
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 12:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Skin Dimpling
>
>
>Hi Again Gang:
>
>I may be suffering from my occasional bout of brain-drain here. How did
you
>dimple the top surface of the aileron skin?? Can it be done with the Avery
>tool? Coming from the leading edge side of the skin has the problem of the
>leading edge curl that is in the skin. I can see how I would be able to
>reach most of the lines of rivets if I got at them from the ends of the
>skin, but there is at least one line of rivets that I cannot reach with the
>Avery tool. I Imagine that I can get at those that I can reach with the
>Avery tool, and then use my set of dimple dies that you use with a
pop-rivet
>tool for the rest. Any other suggestions?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A 25171
>wings
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin |
>I am using the split hinge method where I cut my flap hinge pins in half and
>bend a right angle on the end for insertion from the middle.......
OK, let me see if I can explain what I did without pictures. Of course, to
do the split pin method, you have to clip out a few hinge loops, both from
the flap and the wing hinge sections. Then you have to have a hinge pin that
is longer than the flap (duh). I split the pin midway and bent them less
than 90 degrees up, the bends about 2 inches or so long. At the end of that
there is another small bend, 1/4 inch or so, that lies forward, against the
flap brace (the one with the lightening holes in it). The two ends are bent
so they lie next to but not touching each other. I drilled a hole on the
brace, between where the pins lie and put in a nut plate. Then I bent up a
small piece of stainless steel into a small but wide and flat "U" shape
fitting, with a hole drilled in the middle of it (for the screw), to go over
the two 1/4 inch ends together, secured there by a pan head screw. The pin
can't move out (secured by the hinge loop and the fitting), rotate (the
fitting) or move in (the fitting and the screw). Sounds complex, really
worked well.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Enjoying the Speed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Team Rocket Proto Update |
The Team Rocket Proto F-1 Rocket is nearing completion of its fast build and
will be shipping to the USA leaving CZ on Wednesday. The status as of today is
as follows:
Wings are completed, ailerons and flaps completed.
Fuselage bottom and side skins are riveted on and the plane has been turned
over in the jig. The turtle deck, and floor has been fitted and ready for the
final processes.
We are extremely excited to receive our F-1 prototype here in Florida by the
1st or 2nd of April. We will then prepare for the shipment to Sun n fun for
display. When the aircraft has been received here in Florida, I will give
another update.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
what kind of plane is a hornet. you don't mean military plane do you
?-------------------mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bsgray(at)ntplx.net> |
Hi Doug,
If this is polyester resin then the gumming of the sandpaper is normal for a
part that has not reached full cure (6 months). In the plastic airplane business
you sand, clean with acetone, then bond. The sanding can be omitted if the
surface gums the paper. This is assuming your sanding resin. Mold release wax is
normally used on the outside of the part (the smooth side), not the inside.
This is for a female mold, a male molded part WOULD have release wax in the
inside. I agree with NOT using epoxy over poly(vynal)ester resin.
Bruce
(Glasair III builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Nut and washer???? |
While assembling the wheels I noticed a washer and a nut on the valve stem.
What are they for? Do you leave them on? Trash em' or what?
Larry, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot relief tube WAS: Wandering around the country in my |
RV-4
>>>Has anybody designed a pilot relief tubbe for their RV?
>>
Go and have a look at your local glider site and see what has been done.
In our LS6c glider (USA speak = sailplane) We use incontinent SP?
condoms that are basically thick condoms with a short tube in the end.
We put this on before setting off on a long flight. If the need arises
we attach a hospital pee bag to the condom. upon finishing business this
bag can be unattached with no mess as it has a non return valve in it.
The bag can be removed after the flight. This system works very well.
How did I find out about this method? From another glider pilot who's
wife was a nurse!
Sorry girls cannot supply any ideas
RV8 80274 Wings & moving house and workshop
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Engine inhibiting |
The long term inhibiting question has come up occasionally in the past.
What is the best way to protect that big investment while getting ready to
bolt it on the front end?
Over the years this has really never been a problem for me as the engines
were usually installed shortly after purchase either new or overhauled.
However all that changes when we decide to built a homebuilt. Ten years ago
one could wait until you needed one with the result the engine didn't sit
idle for long.
As we all know that is not the case anymore with the scarcity of good
engines so we buy when a opportunity arises and in a lot of cases long
before we actually need it.
Bart and I got together last week and discussed what would be the best way
to take care of them.
In the case of a new engine one should follow the manufacuture's
recommendations. Bart's engines are run with inhibiting oil before delivery
and would normally be ok for up to two years however this would depend a
lot in how and where it is stored and what the climatic conditions are.
This is what we came up with:
Plug or secure all openings that oil can leak from ie. breather, oil filter
adaptor, exhaust ports, oil pressure and oil temp ports, governor pad,
vacum pump pad, spark plug holes and any other openings I have missed. You
can still expect some minor leakage because all the seals are cold.
Add 8 quarts of aviation oil. Place a suitable sized tire on a drip tray
say 3 ft.x 3ft. and with enough help roll the engine around and lay it
upside down on the tire. For those of you with all the fancy stuff,crome
and pretty colors maybe put some disposable protection between the engine
and tire. Then every few months or the more often the better return engine
to the upright position and roll around again and then back upside down on
the tire . Do not turn crankshaft when engine is stored in this condition.
For engines that are used and have not been inhibited do it as soon as you
can.
The same for overhauled engines that have not been test run and inhibited.
For new and overhauled properly test run and inhibited you will have to be
the judge depending on each situation.
When the engine is installed pull the lower plugs and sump drain and let
all the oil drain out then slowly rotate the prop by hand so that you can
stop and back it up if you feel any unusual pressure.
I know this is a bit of a pain but like a lot of things in life doing it
right dosen't come easy.
If you have questions please ask and will try to get answers for you.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing bottom forward skin on the 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E.I.S. Engine Monitoring |
In a message dated 3/21/99 2:14:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Over at EIS Greg's answers were 100% correct, and he expressed real
willingness to listen to the customer and incorporate suggestions into
his product. That won me over in the end. >>
I am currently installing an EIS with the 4 EGT, CHT feature . Greg and Sandy
have been very helpful during the installation. My neighbor has a Rocky
Mountain which he had not been particularly pleased plus several people I knew
in the UL world and one RV'er who had an earlier EIS reported very positive
results with the EIS units convinced me to buy it. I will give a report when I
finally get this bird flying.
Bernie Kerr, 6A engine and panel, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: RV-6A Empenage kit for Sale |
From: THEZING3(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-6A Empenage kit for Sale
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:56:21 EST
Empenage kit for sale RV-6A - 3 months old. Rear spar complete and primed.
Everything else is still in the orig. box. Included are the following:
Electric Trim
for elevator in orig. box. 500 New Clecoes- 3/32+1/8 still in plastic. Avery
heavy duty rivet squeezer (one month old) with dimple and rivet dies. Empenage
construction tape. 4x4 aluminum jig. I will deliver in the New York City Tri
State area
$1500.00 takes all. I lost my medical.
Regards,
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main spar |
J>F> McNulty wrote:
"can't find the measurements and details for tapering. also what's the
best way to drill these holes?"
To drill the holes, get some 3/16 OD by 1/8 ID steel brake line tubing
from the auto part store, 18-24 inch length. Cut into 1.5 2.0 in
lengths and use as drill bushings in the wing spar. When the ID gets a
little loose, replace with a new piece. Remove the angle and enlarge
the holes to 3/16.
Be sure to taper all the chordwise angle legs about 45 degrees to
advoid interferences with nut plates and skin rivets at the spar
flange interface.
Don't ask how I know!
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA, RV-6A, skinning fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
>
>I am working on the instrument panel forward. Do you normally cut out the
>lightening holes in the instrument sub-panel?
>
>>
>
> Don, I would wait until you have your panel all cut out. I only cut what
I needed to fit my longer instruments. I had to cut my sub panel for my
artificial horizon, directional gyro and my Nav-aid Auto Pilot and of course
some smaller holes for a few assorted hoses and wires etc. I was
uncomfortable trying to save a few ounces on the sub panel ( probably
unfounded ) but I felt I would sacrifice a little strength. For what it's
worth.
Ken Hoshowski RV6
Salmon Arm B.C. 30 degrees last night , 65 this afternoon
Time to get that insurance back on
what a beautiful day...FINALLY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
Mcnu93945(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> what kind of plane is a hornet. you don't mean military plane do you
> ?-------------------mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>
>
Here's what was published in the Tallahassee Democrat/Mullet Wrapper.
A man was killed early Saturday when his home-built plane crashed in
the backyard of a house in Broward county.
Joseph Pushkar, 56 of Fort Lauderdale, took off at about 9:45 a.m.
from North Perry airport in Pimbroke Pines. His two-seater aircraft
had been in the air 15 minutes when it began having engine problems
and crashed in a yard.
I hate reading these stories
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A versus RV-8A |
The RV6a is way better. The 6a has a 20mph higher top speed than the 8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting |
>If you have questions please ask and will try to get answers for you.
>
>Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing bottom forward skin on the
6A
Eustace,
What about a used engine, that was run about four weeks ago on a test
stand, and will have the oil drained before crating and shipment in
about one week? This is my situation, and I wondered if dessicant plugs
and maybe a shot of WD40 into a plug hole in each cylinder would suffice
through the summer. I live in New Mexico, which is generally rather dry,
except for the occasional summer afternoon thunderstorm. The engine will
not run until the fall...unless the Hangar God's smile upon me. (They're
hard to find around here.)
Thanks so much for your wealth of engine knowledge! I've sure learned a
LOT from you and Bart.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
"N" number request in, engine on the way...it's gonna fly someday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut and washer???? |
Larry Rush wrote:
>
>
> While assembling the wheels I noticed a washer and a nut on the valve stem.
> What are they for? Do you leave them on? Trash em' or what?
> Larry, RV-6A
>
Some installations use the nut and washer but the RV series does not.
Throw them in your nut and bolt can carry on with the installation.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - Fabricating rigid fluid lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Barnes <erbarnes(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron twist |
I had this problem on my 3rd aileron (pipe causing twist because of slightly misdrilled
holes). I tried shimming one end of the pipe, and it doesn't work well
at all, since there are two holes virtually 90 degrees to each other.
I rotated the pipe and redrilled, and it worked fine. Just make sure it's against
the nose rib TIGHT all the way around before you drill. I did pilot drill
on the press after getting it started on the ribs, then drilled to size while
installed. This kept the bit from wandering and being angled. Came out straighter
than straight.
EB
#80131 Wings
>
> If I remember right the pipe goes on after the aileron skin is riveted so you
>might try taking the pipe off and see if it lays flat. If it does, rivet it all
>together, rotate the pipe and drill new holes when you fit it then put on the
nose
>skin.
>
> Bob
>RV8#423
Eric Barnes
Sr. Financial Analyst, US Channel Sales
408-527-5967
E R B A R N E S @cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
is it necessary to use a rivit cutter or can you cut them with a
cut off wheel and smooth the ends? please reply .
tom at tcrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A versus RV-8A |
Uh?
How did you figure that out?
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6aJMW(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A versus RV-8A
>
> The RV6a is way better. The 6a has a 20mph higher top speed than the 8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | instrument sub-panel? |
Don,
I wondered the same thing. The plans don't call for it. Some of the
instruments in the panel are so long, they will need to go through that
sub-panel. I left it intact until I had my instruments, radios, etc.
Steve Soule
RV-6A Huntington, Vermont
Awaiting the finishing kit
-----Original Message-----
I am working on the instrument panel forward. Do you
normally cut out the
lightening holes in the instrument sub-panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
Friends, family mourn victim of plane crash
By ADAM RAMIREZ
Herald Staff Writer
Joe Pushkar went all out in everything he did.
The 25-year veteran of the Hollywood Fire Department lived his life with
a passion. Whether behind the wheel of his firetruck, fixing the cars of
fellow firefighters so they could save a buck or preparing his show
horses, he devoted himself fully, with meticulous attention to detail.
That same dedication marked his recent, yearlong quest for a pilot's
license and construction of his own experimental glider plane.
Pushkar was flying that plane Saturday when it lost an engine, took a
downward turn and plowed into a West Broward back yard. Pushkar, 56,
died instantly.
``Joe realized he wasn't going to land safely, so he took her down in
between the house and a barn,'' said Rosh Moore of the South Florida Fun
Flyers club. ``It was just like Joe to avoid hitting anybody -- there
were people in that house. Joe would help anybody, whether he knew them
or not, at anytime.''
Pushkar's plane came down in the back yard of a home at 17911 SW 52nd
Ct. in unincorporated Broward near Davie. He was only a mile from his
own home in unincorporated West Broward. No one on the ground was hurt.
Pushkar retired from the fire department in October 1997. He spent much
of his free time building his aluminum-and-fabric Hornet kit plane.
He and his flying buddy Andy Corsetti were en route Saturday to Pahokee,
near Lake Okeechobee, for a day of leisure flying.
Shortly after takeoff Pushkar realized he had a problem.
``He radioed Andy and said he couldn't reach full power, then within a
minute he had lost power and said `I'm a glider now,' '' Moore said.
Corsetti, who was flying just ahead of Pushkar, said he told his friend
to keep calm and glide the plane to the ground, just like he had been
trained.
But Pushkar's plane had a full tank of fuel, and with the heavier load
the plane likely dropped faster than he expected, said Moore. ``He went
700 to 800 feet to 100, and then came down.''
Jan Pushkar said she will remember her husband of 13 1/2 years as a man
who loved all living things.
``Joe was a very compassionate man with an affinity for everyone --
people or animals,'' she said. ``He loved his horses and dogs. There was
nothing he wouldn't do for another person.''
The Hollywood Boulevard Station 31 firehouse, where Pushkar spent his
entire career, was ``like a morgue,'' said firefighter Bill Jones.
``We're really stunned and saddened,'' said Jones, who called Pushkar
his mentor on the Hazardous Materials Unit. ``Joe was so great to all of
us -- he knew the answer to every question and helped us all. ``He did
everything 100 percent -- just so meticulous and detail-oriented.''
Friends said Pushkar was a burly, gentle giant known for keeping up
morale in the firehouse with his frequent pranks.
``He was a prankster -- but he would do anything for these guys,'' said
fire Capt. Joe Gambino, a friend of Pushkar's for 20 years. ``He worked
a second job as a mechanic. He would give you free advice and often did
work on the guys' cars for free.''
Pushkar worked for the fire department from 1972-97, spending about the
last dozen years on the Hazardous Materials Unit. He was one of the
original members of the team.
``He was an amazing haz-mat driver -- he knew exactly what to do at
every moment,'' said Jones, who now drives Pushkar's firetruck. ``He
taught me everything I knew. I never knew a better, more meticulous
fireman to walk through these doors.''
Pushkar enjoyed his retirement with similar gusto. He traveled the
country with his show horses. He enjoyed brewing his own beer. He was
treasurer of the South Florida Fun Flyers, and his wife, Jan, was the
secretary.
He spent the rest of his time building his plane. He had logged only
eight hours of flying in it before Saturday. It was only his second solo
flight, Gambino said.
``He passed his pilot's license with flying colors,'' Moore said. ``He
was a good pilot and built a solid plane. He was just not used to how
fast it would sink yet.''
Gambino, and many others, are sure their friend steered the falling
plane away from other people.
``There's no question he did that on purpose -- he spent his life
helping other people,'' Gambino said. ``This is a great loss. There are
no words to describe how good of a person he was.''
Pushkar is survived by his wife, Jan; his mother, Yvonne Pushkar, who
lived with him; his daughter, Rhonda Newberry and a granddaughter,
Mackenzie, both of Ohio.
Visitation will be from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday at Panciera Memorial Home,
4200 Hollywood Blvd. A funeral service will be at 11 a.m. Wednesday at
Panciera, followed by a burial service at Forest Lawn Cemetery.
>From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: experimental plane crash/ in florida
>Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:53:43 -0800
>
>
>Mcnu93945(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> what kind of plane is a hornet. you don't mean military plane do you
>> ?-------------------mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>
>Here's what was published in the Tallahassee Democrat/Mullet Wrapper.
>
>A man was killed early Saturday when his home-built plane crashed in
>the backyard of a house in Broward county.
>Joseph Pushkar, 56 of Fort Lauderdale, took off at about 9:45 a.m.
>from North Perry airport in Pimbroke Pines. His two-seater aircraft
>had been in the air 15 minutes when it began having engine problems
>and crashed in a yard.
>
>
>I hate reading these stories
>
>Craig Hiers
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
A rivet cutter (or at least the one I use) makes a rather crude cut, but I
can't see any reason to worry about it since it gets flattened to shape
anyway. So, no, it's not necessary to use a rivet cutter, but using a wheel
and smoothing the ends seems like a LOT more work. A rivet cutter can also
be set to cut a bunch at the same length. It seems like a good time saver
for the money, I would recommend using one.
Or wasn't this your question?
Peter Christensen
RV-6A, empennage complete, close on the house on Thursday.
Pittsburgh, PA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TCRV6(at)aol.com [SMTP:TCRV6(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 12:28 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rivit cutter
>
>
> is it necessary to use a rivit cutter or can you cut them with
> a
> cut off wheel and smooth the ends? please reply .
>
>
> tom at tcrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Summers <stuartrv(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Fuel Tanks (Aviacomp) |
Larry,
if you dont build your own tanks, you will not be able to call yourself
a true RVer, buddy.
No one from down under pays anyone to build there RV. I have at least 10 RVers
that will help me, thats what its all about, learning , adapting , and
overcoming.
There not a big deal , the secret is to keep everything clean. Use the stainless
steel wire brush to roughen up the surfaces, most of it is a one person job ,
get a hand to put in the rear baffle.
Save your money Buddy, I could name at least 20 things you could buy with
$900.00
US dollaros, where I live thats about $1600 Australian.
Best Regards.
Stuart Summers
RV6a Builder
Just Fininshed the Wings.
Larry Rush wrote:
>
> CHEAP AT TWICE THE PRICE!!!!!!
> lARRY, RV-6A (Tanks done in 97!) finish kit now
>
> >
> >Listers:
> >
> >I am considering having my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp but it seems
> expensive
> >at $950 or so?? I have been told it takes approx 100 hours to build the
> >tanks??
> >
> >Does this sound reasonable??
> >
> >Len
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
TO DAVID LUN..
HI DAVE, PLEASE E MAIL ME WITH YOUR E MAIL ADDRESS
REGARDS,
STAN Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywood, Charles E., MAJ, ODCSOPS" <HAYWOCE(at)hqda.army.mil> |
Gliders don't have spiral propwash. :) Wouldn't that affect the accuracy
of the "yarn gauge" a bit?
Regards,
Ed
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com [SMTP:RVer273sb(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 8:07 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim
>
>
> Von.
> Just tape a 8" length of yarn to the windshield
> like we glider people do..
> Stew RV4 CO.
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
I have a fuel odor in my cockpit which I've traced to a leak on the
access door at the root of the left tank.
The tank is now sealed with a cork gasket which certainly needs to be
replaced. Is this method still considered the recomended way to do this?
Is there another material that may be superior? Are there different
grades of cork used for this application?
Thnaks for any help you can give.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
Having cut lightening holes in my sub panel bulkhead before I had the
instrument panel layout, I recommend not cutting any holes in subpanel
until you find what is necessary for gyros and radios.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
"'support(at)vansaircraft.com'" ,
"Peck, James W"
"Denk, Brian P" ,
"Hooper, Don FAB11" ,
"'kufu(at)swcp.com'"(at)matronics.com
Greetings all,
I am pleased to announce that N97WK has slipped the surly bonds. The
aircraft is an RV-6A kit number 24025. Construction started end of Febuary
97 and flew for the first time on Saturday 3/20/99 at 1pm. Interesting note:
Chase plane was a freshly restored PT-26 owned by the Lobo wing of the CAF.
I think this is the first RV to be escorted by a WWII vintage plane on its
first flight.
The first flight was from Alburquerques Double Eagle II airport (AEG). Two
minor problems were encountered. Oil temp climbed up to about 240 degrees. I
think this was because of my climb out from 5800 to 9500 feet in about 4
minutes at 80 knots indicated. I was nervous and wanted as much airspace
below me without breaking the 10000 ft level. It started cooling down once I
leveled off.
The other problem was the engine would sputter for a 1/2 second when I made
a power change up or down. I think we have traced this to a lean mixture or
an intake tube leak. When I pulled all of the intake tubes yesterday to
change the 1-1/2 hose I found a gasket missing on the #1 cylinder intake
port. Someone had used some permatex but it was the thin non rtv stuff. If
anyone has any other Ideas let me know. There was never any chance of the
engine quitting but with the adrenaline pumping any cough whill scare the
hell out of you.
Once at altitude I did a power off stall to get a reference for landing. The
stall was very clean with a slight break straight ahead at 50 knots
indicated. I had a slight buffet at between 4 and 8 knots above the stall. I
think. I will have to find out on the next flight when the adrenalines not
pumping to be sure of the numbers. Because of the engine stuff I cut the
flight short and decended to pattern altitude, made a 45 entry to downwind
and slowed to about 95K. I tuned base at about 85K and was planning final
for 75K but when I loolked down I was up to 95 again. Boy does this plane
accelerate in a hurry. During the approach I got it slowed down below 80
again and landed about 1000 feet past the numbers (runway is about 7500
feet). Touch down was perfect, the mains squeaked and about a second later
the nose touched. I just held my climb out attitude from the time I flared
to the time the wheels touched. I could have done a better job holding the
nose of but that stresss stuff got in the way. The PT26 which was flying of
my right wing all the way in did a great wing wag. No the PT didn't catch me
until my decent. WHAT A FLIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks to Vans for a great kit, the encougagement department of the rv-list,
Buster/Corsair, and my friends and family who supported this project and
helped where they could or I would let them. Special thanks to Jim Maleck
(sp?) of the CAF who has been great support all the time at the airport for
parts and ideas. Jim also flew the PT26 as chase.
Quick details on the plane:
RV-6A kit (not quickbuild), slider, elect flaps, elect elevator trim, elect
aleron trim, empty wt 1029, O-320 E3D (150 hp), Props inc prop, Full IFR
panel minus radios. I am saving my pennies for a Garmin 430 and Garmin
Xponder. Right now I am flying on a Icom A22 and will install a ICS radio to
hold me over and act as a backup for the Garmin.
Sorry for the long post but I'm pretty pumped up.
Pat Kirkpatrick
N97WK Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Pat,
CONGRADULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
awaiting QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron Trim-RV-8 |
I have a slight left banking tendency on my RV-8 that I need to take care
of. As I understand it, there are basically three methods of fixing this
problem; 1. Install a small wedge shaped tab to the bottom of the right
aileron. 2. Use the 'bang the trailing edge of the aileron technique'.
3. Adjust the left flap slightly downward. As of now, I think I prefer
the flap adjustment method. Has anyone had good success with this? What
has worked for you? Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
Andy,
I had the same problem on my left tank (RV-6A). I replaced the old
cork gasket with a new cork gasket (cut it out of a sheet of gasket
material) and coated both sides and screw holes with Fuel Lube. I
thought about using neurprene??? material, but was advised by A&P that
it can be adversly affected by certain fuel additives. I also replace
the phillips head 8-32 acess plate screws with socket head screws
(hex/Allen wrench) which you can tightened better. No further problems,
just the time to take the tank off of the wing. Could not get to it
otherwise. Smaller hands may do better trying to fix leaving tank on
the wing. But, I could not get right angle/force to unscrew the phillip
head screws (another reason I went to socket head).
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> I have a fuel odor in my cockpit which I've traced to a leak on the
> access door at the root of the left tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
Its best not to at this point. Later on you may need to cut out for long
insturments. Don't want to cut out to much.
Cecil hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
>
>I am working on the instrument panel forward. Do you normally cut out
>the
>lightening holes in the instrument sub-panel?
>
>don mack
>rv-6a
>donmack(at)flash.net
>http://www.flash.net/~donmack
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | iems7(at)aadc.com (Mike Smallwood 230-8123 Dept. 6960) |
Some time ago, someone had listed or mentioned that Art Chard had a set of RV4
wings for sale. Does anyone know if these wings are still available and Art
Chard's telephone number?
Mike Smallwood
RV4 Wanna Be
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dream Riveter |
Hi Group!!
I am posting this for a friend. He has decided he isn't going to build
any more airplanes and is going to sell the Riveter of your Dreams. So,
for any RV-builder's groups, shops, or individuals, this is the riveter
you have been waiting for.
It is a 36 inch throat compression riveter CP 450 EA-36 which has been
rebuilt and is "like new". He is asking $4,500.00 for it.
This riveter is comparable with the US Industrial Cold Riveter - part
number US 150 EA-36 riveter and is listed new for $13,500.00. This
riveter is almost exactly like the one in their catalog. It is a large
machine and will weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 4000#, Great for
spars, dimpling and riveting. Makes the rivet or dimple perfect every
time.
Please contact: Mr. H.R. "Blackie" Miears
Snyder, TX
915/573-6163
Blackie is a master craftsman/builder and he has won a couple of awards
for his Cubs at Kerrville in the past. I was fortunate enough to have
access to this machne throughout the dimpling and riveting stage on my
project and I can't begin to explain how great it was to be able to use
it. I have been trying to scan a picture of this into a file, and hope
to have it soon. If you would like to see a picture, please e-mail me
direct. at
whays(at)camalott.com and I will try to get it to you.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
RV6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Wheel Pants & Tire Clearances |
Make sure you have adequate clearance on top of the tire. I had one wheel
that was rubbing on the top inside of the wheel pants. There was an eighth
or three sixteenths of an inch clearance there but that wasn't enough.
Apparently the wheels expand when they get spinning fast. The fix involved
some of that nasty fiberglass work.
Scott Sawby N341SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>I am pleased to announce that N97WK has slipped the surly bonds. The
>aircraft is an RV-6A kit number 24025. Construction started end of
>Febuary 97 and flew for the first time on Saturday 3/20/99 at 1pm.
Oil temp climbed up to about 240 degrees. I think this was because of my
climb
out from 5800 to 9500 feet in about 4 minutes at 80 knots indicated.
>Pat Kirkpatrick
>N97WK Flying
>
Thanks for the post & congratulations. Got me to going again. Please
keep us updated on yur test flights.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
I also replace
>the phillips head 8-32 acess plate screws with socket head screws
>(hex/Allen wrench) which you can tightened better. No further
>problems,
>just the time to take the tank off of the wing. Could not get to it
>otherwise. Smaller hands may do better trying to fix leaving tank on
>the wing. But, I could not get right angle/force to unscrew the
>phillip
>head screws (another reason I went to socket head).
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW
>Vienna, VA
>
>winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
Ed:
Where can I get the allen head screwws thtat would be as good as the
AN's?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
Don,
I got mine at local Mom & Pop hardware store and they shouldn't be too
hard to find. They are generally in the speciality hardware boxes along
with metric bolts, springs, keyways, allex wrenches, etc. The ones I
got are harden steel grade 8 or better, but you don't have a lot of
stress on those screws so probably any good grade bolt/screw will work.
Just ask for some 8-32 socket head bolts/screws. They are very easy to
get tight against the pressure of the platnut with an allen wrench
without stripping the heads as I did on the phillip head screws.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Vienna, VA
donspawn(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I also replace
> >the phillips head 8-32 acess plate screws with socket head screws
> >(hex/Allen wrench) which you can tightened better. No further
> >problems,
> >just the time to take the tank off of the wing. Could not get to it
> >otherwise. Smaller hands may do better trying to fix leaving tank on
> >the wing. But, I could not get right angle/force to unscrew the
> >phillip
> >head screws (another reason I went to socket head).
> >
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW
> >Vienna, VA
> >
> >winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
> Ed:
>
> Where can I get the allen head screwws thtat would be as good as the
> AN's?
>
> Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
The latest info on the 5th Twin Cities RV Forum. Hope to see many of you in
Red Wing, MN on April 24.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
name="Forum Info.txt"
filename="Forum Info.txt"
5th Annual Twin Cities Rv Forum
Sat. April 24, 1999
Red Wing, MN (RGK)
The Twin Cities RV Forum is scheduled for Sat April 24, at the Red Wing,
MN
Airport (40 miles SE of MSP). Times are 0800 to 1700. An approximate
schedule is:
0800-0845 Registration, coffee, juice, donuts
0845-0900 Intro and Welcome
0900-1200 Speakers
1200-1300 Lunch
1300-1500 Speakers
1500-1700 Van's Aircraft, Bill Benedict
Speakers:
Paul Irbeck (professional RV builder) - RV initial and annual
inspections
Ray Richardson (pres Power Sport) - Rotary engines for RVs
Scott Smith - purchasing a completed
Paul Peterson (professional engineer) - engine operation
Larry Vetterman (pres High Country Exhaust) - RV construction and Flying
Jim Frantz - Angle of attack instrumentation for RVs
Afternoon guest speaker: Bill Benedict, general manager of Van=92s
Aircraft.
Bill will update us on the latest developments at Van's.
During the day we will have door prize giveaways each hour, a People's
Choice competion for best RV, a workshop centered around the
construction of
an RV-6 vertical stab (to be given away as our Grand Prize).
Also we are staging our first RV Air Race... a flat out, 100 nm speed
event.
Product information will be on display, a mini-fly market will be
available for
those who want to sell items, a bulletin board for want ad postings. As
many RVs will be inside as possible with the remainder on the ramp. Of
course fly-ins of any kind will be more than welcome.
The evening banquet will begin at 7:00pm. Nice location at the St. James
Hotel which is an elegantly restored turn-of-the-century establishment.
Guest speaker is George Orndorff, RV video producer and expert builder.
Red Wing is a beautiful Mississippi river town with
lots of restaurants, B&Bs, art galleries, antique and pottery shops. The
airport is 3 miles from town.
We have several rooms reserved at the St. James for those wanting to
make a real
weekend of it. Rooms are very, nice and available until April 10th. $120
and up (call 1-800-252-1875 and ask for RV Forum reservations). Other
accommodations
in town include:
AmericInn Motel 1819 Old Main 800-634-3444 $73.90 / double
Days Inn Hwys 61 & 63 800-325-2525 $53.99 / single, $70.99 / double
Candlelight Inn B&B 818 w. 3rd St. 612-388-8034
Golden Lantern B&B 721 East Ave. 612-388-3315 $89 - 125 includes
breakfast
Parkway Motel 3425 Hwy 61 N 800-762-0934 $33 - 51 (1 to 4 people)
Pratt Taber Inn B&B 706 W. 4th St. 612-388-5945 $89 - 110 (includes
breakfast)
Red Carpet Inn 232 Withers Harbor Dr. 612-388-1502
Treasure Island Casino 800-222-7077
Super 8 Motel Hwy 61 & Withers Hbr 612-388-0491 $57 - 69
Sterling Motel 612-388-3568
Rodeway Inn Hwy 61 & Withers Hbr 800-228-2000 $57 - 67
Cost: Forum fee (includes breakfast and lunch):
$20 for the first family member
$5 for each additional family member
$5 for RV fly-in pilots
$5 for RV Air Race contestants
Vendor fee: $20 table rental plus above admission achedule.
=09
Banquet: $25/per person.
For fly-ins we will provide transportation to and from your hotel.
Also information on the forum is avilable at the MN Wing Website:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/rvforum.html
Below is a registration form. If you think you can attend, please
consider mailing this ahead of time. It will help us in our planning.
Thanks,
Doug Weiler, pres, MN Wing
715-386-1239, dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
***********************************************************
Pre- Registration - 5th Annual Twin Cities RV Builder's Forum
Saturday, April 24, 1999, 8am to 5pm
Please print:
Name: _____________________________________________________
Address: __________________________________________________
City, State, Zip: __________________________________________
Phone: ______________________________
Forum admission (includes coffee, donuts, lunch and beverage):
=09
$20 first family member
$ 5 each additional family member (adult or child)
$ 5 per person for fly-in RV pilots and passengers
Forum attendees: 1st family member: _________ Additional family
members: ________
Yes, I plan to fly my RV and would like to display it. _________
(RV-3,4,6,6A)
Send me a tourist packet on the Red Wing area __________
Evening banquet reservations (6pm cash bar, dinner 7pm):=09
$25 each includes entree, salad, potato, beverage, and dessert.
Please indicate number of each menu choice:
______ Stuffed pork chops
______ Chicken Parmesan
Vegetarian or special needs menu items also available. Please advise.
Please mail to (prepayment is not required, but would be nice):
Jim Lenzmeier
65 15th Ave SW
New Brighton, MN 55112 (612-633-8488)
email: jlenzmer(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Custom Instrument Panels |
Hello Everyone
My name is Steve Davis, The Panel Pilot. I do custom cutting of instrument
panels and custom engraved overlays. I have a Web Page
Panel Pilot Web Page or you can
reach me by phone (901) 527-5265. I have done a few RV's and have a couple on
my page under the photo section. I did the overlay in the Thunder Mustang for
Charles Denny. All my drawings are done using CAD, or I can use a Panel
Planner file. One of the great things about my process is the clear acrylic I
cut first, so you can see what needs to be moved, or clearences behind the
panel. That's a brief description but if I can help or answer any questions
fill free to call.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
E-mail panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 wing rib angle attachments to main spar |
Mcnu93945(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Can someone tell me where I can find specifications in the plans for the
> angles on the ribs to the main spar. I've looked everywhere, can't find the
> measurements and details for tapering. also whats the best way to drill these
> holes? Listers help greatly apprecciated-------------- J.F. McNulty
> mcnu93945(at)aol.com
Assistance in the building of -6/-6a wings may be found in Frank Justice
Notes at <http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice/index.html>
Also, Will Cretsinger Wing Construction Notes at
<http://www.flash.net/~gila> courtesy of Gil Alexander.
Frank Justice has helped most of us get airborne...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Useless chatter, was: Pilot relief tube RV-4 |
Glad you liked it, life is always funnier than fiction!
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rivit cutter |
<< is it necessary to use a rivit cutter or can you cut them with a
cut off wheel and smooth the ends? please reply . >>
You can cut 'em with a pair of dykes if you want. Use the Mk1 eyeball to
estimate the right length.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Urine Luck (Part 2) |
The product I referenced earlier is available from Sporty's . . . I found
the name of the manufacturer (American Innotek, Escondido, CA) and they
mentioned that Sporty's carries it. In their March-June '99 catalog iit is
on page 79 . . . the item called "Brief Relief Flight Extender" . . . $9.95
for a package of four. The catalog doesn't do the product justice. You
have to see it (or try it) to believe it. Basically, they are
"ergonomically" correct . . . and the urine turns into a fairly thick (non
flowing/spilling) gel almost immediately. They are readily sealed, trashed
once you get back down. Anyway, I'll be trying this out sooner or later.
Regardless, my hats are off to the Mason Jar guys . . . yet I still respect
the Snapple jar types . . . and I'll discontinue use of my Folger's coffee
can.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 (part 2) |
Well, I made it home. The return from Minneapolis to Sacramento (actually
Cameron Park) was as much a pleasure (maybe more) as the trip out.
I was really pleased with the service, friendliness, and helpfulness of the
folks at Crystal Skyways at the Minneapolis Crystal airport. If you have
to go to downtown Minneapolis, I recommend Crystal airport and the folks at
Crystal Skyways. For those of you with 150 hp O-320s, they have mogas and
understand flying on a budget.
The conference ended for me on Thursday so I got underway Friday morning.
I took advantage the scheduling opportunity afforded by operating my own
airline to drop in on some folks near Faribault Airport, about 30 nm south
of Minneapolis.
Meeting over, I started out for Salida, Colorado, where John Fasching,
owner of a very nice RV-6a invited me to spend the night and talk about
airplanes. It never ceases to amaze me how flat the midwest is. With the
section lines and section line roads running north-south and east-west I
kept feeling like I was flying over a giant piece of graph paper. It makes
me nervous to depend totally on the GPS and the moving map so I started
following along on the WAC chart. The midwest is a real challenge to one's
skills at pilotage.
But I was surprised that there really was no headwind so I made pretty good
time. I stopped at North Platte, Nebraska for fuel and to give John a call
letting him know that, stupid me, I had dawdled too long at my first
meeting that I would not be able to make it to Salida before nightfall. He
and I both agreed that flying over the mountains west of Pueblo, Colorado,
at night would not be a good idea so I opted to stop at Pueblo for the
night. I had also noticed a roughess in the engine so I wanted to stop and
check things out.
The folks at Flower Aviation in Pueblo pushed me into their heated hangar
and rolled out a tool box for me to use. Turns out it was nothing more
than a loose plug wire (I was sure I had torqued those down ...) but I was
glad to be able to check it out before crossing the mountains.
Saturday morning I headed over to John Fasching's hanger in Salida. They
have a nice long runway but it is at 7500' altitude. Even our RVs have to
roll a bit on landing and takeoff at that altitude, sort of like a C-172
does at sea level. ;
) John has a very nice RV-6a and an immaculate
hangar. Someday when I grow up I am going to have a hanger just like his!
John and I talked about RVs and swapped ideas for about an hour or so
before I pressed on westbound.
John lives in some of the most breathtakingly beautiful country the USA has
to offer. The mountains and snow are just beautiful. I opted to fly west
instead of south and west which had me crossing some very high mountain
ridges. You know you are crossing some serious mountains when you are
clearing the ridges by at most 500' yet the altimeter reads 13,000'. It
was fun watching the people on the ski runs and going snow mobiling. Based
on groundspeed and fuel burn I decided to stop at the Grand Canyon for food
and fuel.
Almost nothing can make you appreciate your RV more than a flight from
Salida to the Grand Canyon. You go from the sharp, breathtaking majesty of
the Rocky Mountains to the awe inspiring breadth and depth of the Grand
Canyon in about two hours. One cannot prepare you for the other. Grandeur
is probably the best adjective.
As I pressed west I started encountering the dry cold front that flight
service had warned me about. The first hint was some turbulance. By the
time I reached Grand Canyon airport, it had increased to moderate. I ended
up landing at Grand Canyon with a 40 degree crosswind, 20 kts gusting to 30
kts. I was a bit worried about how the RV-4 would handle the crosswind
(this is probably the worst I have encountered while flying the RV-4) but I
needn't have. The RV-4 had plenty of control authority and the landing was
rather anticlimatic. On the other hand, it wasn't anticlimatic for the
spam can that ended up blown into the weeds just before I took off again.
Things like this just make me appreciate the RV-4 more and more.
The last leg on Saturday was from Grand Canyon to Cable Airport in Upland,
California. Cable (CCB) is just north of Ontario International Airport and
is a real hotbed of RV building activity. Cable is where my RV-4 came from
(Glenn Whitely built a lot of RV-3s, -4s, and -6s there) and where I
learned to fly 31 years ago. This was a homecoming of sorts. I had
planned for a 2.3 hour flight but I hadn't planned on the strength of the
dry cold front and the deepness of the low pressure area driving it. I
could see dust storms all across the desert. I eventually had to decide
between turbulance and headwinds. Being a creature of comfort I opted to
go high and get out of the turbulance (it was brutal down low). I ended up
at 14,500 where my fuel flow was 7 GPH and my TAS was 160 kts. The killer
was that, by the time I got to California, my groundspeed had dwindled to
90 kts. The last 100 nm saw groundspeeds as low as 78 kts. ATIS's along
the way were reporting surface winds of 30+ kts with gusts up to 40 kts. I
didn't relish the idea of having to land somewhere out in the desert but I
bet if I had it would have looked like a helicopter landing.
The San Bernardino mountains coming into the LA basin seemed to be the
dividing line for the nasty surface winds. I caught a few bumps but
nothing at all like what I had encountered earlier. I didn't have to work
as hard for this landing so, of course, it wasn't as good as the one at
Grand Canyon. OTOH, it must have been pretty good because the airplane was
reusable afterward. I spent the evening with my parents.
Sunday morning I dawdled in my old bed (same bed I had as a child but now
it resides in the guest bedroom, my old bedroom having long ago turned into
an office for my parents) taking time to wake up. I finally got up and
helped my father write an article about Oshkosh for one of the local
newspapers. We wandered out to Cable for lunch and hung out hangar flying
with the locals for an hour or so until it was time for me to begin the
last leg. Several people who had gotten their first RV experience dropped
by to see what I had done with Glenn's airplane. (It will never really be
my airplane; I am just the custodian until Glenn reclaims it.) I was
pleased to hear comments on the CTAF about how great it was to see the old
blue RV-4 flying again.
I took off and did the classic RV-4 zoom climb. A left overhead 270 is the
normal pattern departure from Cable. I climbed along the Angeles mountains
that separates the LA basin from the high desert until I got to 8,500' at
which point I turned NE for the final leg of my trip. I leveled off at
10,500' as the high desert unfolded. There was Palmdale, Muroc Dry Lake,
Edwards Air Force Base, and the Tehachapi Mountains ahead. I had only
about 30 kts of headwind which seemed like nothing compared to the previous
day. There wasn't any turbulance but the alitmeter told me that there was
some mountain wave activity coming off the Tehachapi's. As I got closer I
could see that the Tehachapi glider folks were taking advantage of the good
soaring weather. As I crossed over into the Central Valley I dropped down
to 8,500' where I got out of the headwinds. Soon my groundspeed was up at
165 kts where it belongs.
The wind was pushing the air up the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada
mountains making for nice scattered cumulus clouds. Even though my trip
was almost at its end I couldn't resist making the RV-4 dance between the
cloud canyons to the sounds of my favorite Beatle's songs. The RV-4
follows perfectly as I lead it through the waltz of Norwegian Wood. This
lasted all the way to Cameron Park where, with some reluctance, I ended my
trip.
I landed, taxied up to the fuel pump, and shut down. I opened the canopy
and took off my helmet but I didn't get out of the airplane. The light
breeze blew through my hair and gently shook the aircraft feeling almost as
if the RV-4 was chiding me for giving up too soon. I sat there for about 5
minutes enjoying the feeling and finally watching an Aeronca perform a
short, steep, perfectly executed power-off approach and landing. It taxied
up and shut down. Its pilot hopped out wearing a big grin. "Wow, the
weather is just *perfect* today," he exclaimed. I nodded and finally
climbed out. We bantered while fueling our respective aircraft enjoying
the comraderie of pilots that such perfect flying weather brings.
Fuel finally aboard I climbed back in for the taxi to the hangar. I pulled
up and spun around in front of the hanger door. The trip was finally
really over. I began putting the charts away and removing bags. I picked
up the little bits of things that had found their way out of hiding during
the zero-G push I had done somewhere along the line. The RV-4 went back
into the hangar with its tail in the proper corner.
Sometime within the next couple of days I will have to pull the cowl,
change the oil, clean the plugs, and do all the things that come with
owning an airplane, but now it is time to go home for dinner and think
about where I am going to fly next.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron spar lightening holes |
You are never supposed to measure any drawing. You should use the dimensions given.
----------
From: Frank van der Hulst[SMTP:frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz]
Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron spar lightening holes
Jeff Orear wrote:
> Not that it really matters, but I am finding a discrepancy in the plans.
> Drawing 16, on the upper right corner, shows the first lightening hole for
> the aileron spar as being 4 3/4 inches from the root end of the spar, but I
> measure the drawing as being 4 1/4. Who do I believe? What's a guy to
> do??!!
Look at The Bunny's Guide <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm>
-- I seem to recall that the drawing shows a L aileron whilst the rest
of the drawing is for the R aileron (or vice versa).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
U.S.Navy F-18 Hornet......................
>
>what kind of plane is a hornet. you don't mean military plane do you
>?-------------------mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut and washer???? |
>
>
>Larry Rush wrote:
>>
>>
>> While assembling the wheels I noticed a washer and a nut on the valve stem.
>> What are they for? Do you leave them on? Trash em' or what?
>> Larry, RV-6A
>>
>
>Some installations use the nut and washer but the RV series does not.
>Throw them in your nut and bolt can carry on with the installation.
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A - Fabricating rigid fluid lines.
THAT IS WHAT I FIGURED! THANKS...ALREADY DONE IT!
Larry RV-6A....finishing stuff..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental plane crash/ in florida |
Unfortunately, it was the untralight hornet.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net>
Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: experimental plane crash/ in florida
>
>U.S.Navy F-18 Hornet......................
>
>
>>
>>what kind of plane is a hornet. you don't mean military plane do you
>>?-------------------mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Dear Gang,
My mechanic is going to start a Condition Inspection on my recently
purchased RV-4. I have searched the archives and the FAA website for either
a specialized (RV-4) inspection checklist, and for any "AD's" or "Service
Bulletins" put out by Van. I have not had a lot of luck. Can anyone guide
me to the right sources or send me some direct info? Thanks.
Louis,
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivit cutter |
>> is it necessary to use a rivit cutter or can you cut them with a
>> cut off wheel and smooth the ends? please reply . >>
>
>You can cut 'em with a pair of dykes if you want. Use the Mk1 eyeball to
>estimate the right length.
Ya that's what I do, (and smooth with the scotchbrite wheel) but I think if
I were starting over I would go ahead and get the cutter. An inexpensive
one anyway, no sense breaking the bank on this one.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com (attn new address -- old one still works too though)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary white <gwhite(at)vaxxine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Empennage for sale |
Hello Jim:
WHere is the empennage located? I am in Niagara Falls. Canada Would you know what
it
would cost to ship to Niagara Falls, New York or Buffalo , New York . Can it be
sent
via U.P.S.? Is it a complete unstarted kit with manuals ?
Gary White
gwhite(at)vaxxine.com
JimNolan wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I still have the RV-6 Empennage for sale. Electric Trim included. Horz.
Spar
> completed. $900
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
Listers,
A BIG thank you to all that responded to Nancy's and I concerns (are
you sure there's only 900+ members on this list?) The volume was quite
surprising! There was some very nice and touching stories on how some of
you came about building a RV. I think it answered basically what we were
after. I got this "slight"passion about putting people and metal in the
air, so we'll go for it, most probably in 2-3 weeks. We'll see how it
goes, and talk it out as we go along. I got the tooling catalogues from
Avery, Brown and Cleveland. I've hooked with local builders, and found
out that one of the member in my flying club is a FAA "general aviation
friendly" examiner/inspector. That'll help! I also got the email from
Van's saying that my plans are finally on the way. Anybody has extra
tools that would need a new home?!?
By the way, excuse me about Nancy's missing email. I had it down in the
CC field, but I guess the server doesn't see it. Here it is:
souka(at)webtv.net
Thanks again!
Rich & Nancy
Preview Plans, -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spar covers for the 6A |
| From: | don r jordan <donspawn(at)Juno.com> |
I have been trying to fit the F 639 & 640 floor covers that fit over the
spar.
I installed my false spar & have been working from the front edge of the
spar. I have ordered a new one for the left side that I thought I had
over trimmed. I have it fitting good & now I find I have about 1/4 inch
to trim to the aft side to get it to fit. After looking again at the dwg,
it shows the forward "bend down" fitting forward of the spar.
? am I to fit from the rear edge & let the front run wild? I have looked
in the archives, but as usual I can't seem to find any thing I need.
Thanks:
Don Jordan ~ Arlington, Tx ~ RV6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmjordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
There is a type of bolt called a "button head" which is available in
stainless and is really nice for an application like this. It is Allen
head, but the head is shaped more like a standard round head bolt. It has a
broader contact surface than a standard Allen head, but still is easy to
tighten and not worry about slipping off. Also, if you use them where they
show, the head will polish like chrome with about a five second buff on a
polishing wheel. I get them in all different sizes from a business here in
Tucson that specializes in industrial nuts and bolts called Copperstate Nut
and Bolt. I am sure you can find similar stores in most metro areas. By
the way, they really look great for exposed instrument panel bolts, or
anyplace that shows but is not really structural.
Mel Jordan
RV6A QB ready to seal up the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | spar covers for the 6A |
Don,
I think the front edge does indeed overhang the spar that will go in there
some day. I think it should be a loose fit, it looks like it is just an
unattached cover.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A finishing kit
-----Original Message-----
? am I to fit from the rear edge & let the front run wild?
I have looked
in the archives, but as usual I can't seem to find any thing
I need.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping cost |
>list on the Right coast (Virginia) who have purchased a QB.....and I
>would appreciate knowing what it cost to ship it. When I spoke to Tom
>Green last summer (as we returned from my $30000.00 free ride), he
>thought it was around 2K. Sounded kinda high....but then, what do I know
>about shipping......
> Thanks in advance..............
>
>
> John (aka: Jack) Armstrong
> C-150 N3005X
> RV6a
> Leesburg, Va>>
Jack, My cost for a QB6 w/finish kit ( 3 very large boxes) via Roadway was
approx. $1150 (Nov. 98). Parma borders Cleveland. (p.s. Only cost $52 shipping
for a new Lyc. 0-360 from pennsylvania if you are going all the way)
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
QB6 - installing top skins & working inside fuse
N198RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: spar covers for the 6A |
>I have been trying to fit the F 639 & 640 floor covers that fit over the
>spar. am I to fit from the rear edge & let the front run wild? I have looked
>in the archives, but as usual I can't seem to find any thing I need.
>
>Thanks:
>
>Don Jordan ~ Arlington, Tx ~ RV6A fuselage
Don, I just finished installing the F 639 and F640. Although it seems that
they are too long they do fit at the trailing edge. Don't cut the trailing
edge but you do need to move them forward so that they overhang the spars. I
have a QB6 and it came with the false spars installed. The F639 and F640 aft
edge should fit into the seat rib angle and overlap the bottom seat skins. The
top edge of the 640/639 will rest on the rear edge of the spar. As per plans
they are secured at the top. Just be careful to measure where the holes on the
top edge will go (try fitting a platenut on the spar first for a trial hole
location) because if you don't you may have to use single lug platenuts.
(MS21071...I think) Don't ask me how I know....
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6 QB N198RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Urine Luck (Part 2) |
Rick Jory wrote:
>
> The product I referenced earlier is available from Sporty's . . . I found
> the name of the manufacturer (American Innotek, Escondido, CA) and they
> mentioned that Sporty's carries it. In their March-June '99 catalog iit is
> on page 79 . . . the item called "Brief Relief Flight Extender" . . . $9.95
> for a package of four. The catalog doesn't do the product justice. You
> have to see it (or try it) to believe it. Basically, they are
> "ergonomically" correct . . . and the urine turns into a fairly thick (non
> flowing/spilling) gel almost immediately. They are readily sealed, trashed
> once you get back down. Anyway, I'll be trying this out sooner or later.
> Regardless, my hats are off to the Mason Jar guys . .
I'd be careful taking my hat off around those guys.
> . yet I still respect
> the Snapple jar types . . . and I'll discontinue use of my Folger's coffee
> can.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 (part 2) |
>
snip...
>
>Meeting over, I started out for Salida, Colorado, where John Fasching,
>owner of a very nice RV-6a invited me to spend the night and talk about
>airplanes. It never ceases to amaze me how flat the midwest is. With the
>section lines and section line roads running north-south and east-west I
>kept feeling like I was flying over a giant piece of graph paper. It makes
>me nervous to depend totally on the GPS and the moving map so I started
>following along on the WAC chart. The midwest is a real challenge to one's
>skills at pilotage.
>
snip....
Great story Brian. The motivation really helps.
It's interesting how one's perspective is affected by what one is used to.
Having grown up in the terrain deficient Midwest, I find the prospects of
flying out west a real challenge to my pilotage skills. At least here
(Indiana), nothing but potential landing fields beckon out my windshield
should I need them. You quickly learn that a map with railroads and
highways on it can be your best source of info. Circling a town to read the
name on the water tower is not unheard of either. But out west, just the
thought of skimming over terrain at 500' AGL while the altimeter reads
13,000' feet gives me a little shiver. What about a sudden downdraft?
Quick weather change in the mountains? Available landing spots? Actually,
I look forward to making trips out west once my bird is finished. I can't
wait to work on the challenge of improving my flying skills and learning how
to properly handle the different challenges of flying in breathtaking, but
somewhat unfriendly terrain.
I hope you'll write more on the list regarding your trips. You put a big
smile on my face this morning. Thanks for a strong dose of completion
motivation.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Ready for Paint"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shipping cost |
I think this subject is germaine enough to answer to the entire list. I'm
betting there are lots of lurkers out there wondering about this.
I am but a simple, lowly Glastar builder. I bought the QB fuselage
option and glad I did. It came in a mighty big, mighty heavy box. The cost
of shipping from the west coast to Pittsburgh was $1018. The crate was 18
feet long, 6 feet high, 6 feet wide (roughly) and weighed about 500lbs. Hope
this helps.
Bill Yamokoski
saving for an engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
call me on the phone i help you 800 5823125 claudio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Denman <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Sun and fun 1999 |
A couple of weeks ago there was some information on Sun and Fun on the
list which I didn't save. Sorry to ask the questions again but...
1. Which days are the "Big Days" and which days are the "best
days"...assuming they are different.
2. How hard is it to get housing (motels etc.) nearby at this late
date. Any suggestions about good motels etc.
3. If housing nearby is filled, what alternative airfields and motels
work best? Any suggestions would be helpful
4. How bad is the daily car traffic near the field if I drive in from
another airport?
5. Does Lakeland usually have parking available for airplanes
throughout the show or does it fill up like Oshkosh?
Thanks for any help.
Mike Denman
mikedenman(at)earthlink.net
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and fun 1999 |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
----------
>From: Mike Denman <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Sun and fun 1999
>Date: Tue, Mar 23, 1999, 10:38 AM
>
>
>A couple of weeks ago there was some information on Sun and Fun on the
>list which I didn't save. Sorry to ask the questions again but...
>1. Which days are the "Big Days" and which days are the "best
>days"...assuming they are different.
I'd say Sunday and Monday are the biggest days and tappering off after that.
Monday is nice in the that the Sun 100 race is held in the morning. I love
watching everone getting ready and then the start. Twenty minutes later the
hot shots re-appear. Get there about 8 AM.
>2. How hard is it to get housing (motels etc.) nearby at this late
>date. Any suggestions about good motels etc.
Can't help here, but try a treavel agent. Or EAA.
>3. If housing nearby is filled, what alternative airfields and motels
>work best? Any suggestions would be helpful
I've stayed all over. Bradenton(near Tampa), Winter Haven(great Oyster/Rock
& Roll Bar called Harbour view(side)), Orlando( about an hour drive.
>4. How bad is the daily car traffic near the field if I drive in from
>another airport?
I had problems the first year coming in mid day on Sunday probably the
busiest time. Getting out is a pain.
>5. Does Lakeland usually have parking available for airplanes
>throughout the show or does it fill up like Oshkosh?
>Thanks for any help.
>Mike Denman
>mikedenman(at)earthlink.net
>RV6
Hope this helps.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com> |
Jack - I received an RV8 QB a couple of months ago - picked it up at Roadway
in Bethlehem PA - Shipping was $1058 - would have been about $75 more for
home delivery - the discount applied was >50% and the shipment arrived in
perfect condition - hope this helps
John Higgins RV 8 QB
have the pieces, looking for the time
> ----------
> From: j armstrong[SMTP:rvav8r(at)Juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 8:17 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Shipping cost
>
>
> I'm sure that there are folks on this list on the Right coast (Virginia)
> who have purchased a QB.....and I would appreciate knowing what it cost to
> ship it. When I spoke to Tom
> Green last summer (as we returned from my $30000.00 free ride), he
> thought it was around 2K.... John (aka: Jack) Armstrong
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 (part 2) |
>It's interesting how one's perspective is affected by what one is used to.
>Having grown up in the terrain deficient Midwest, I find the prospects of
>flying out west a real challenge to my pilotage skills. At least here
>(Indiana), nothing but potential landing fields beckon out my windshield
>should I need them. You quickly learn that a map with railroads and
>highways on it can be your best source of info. Circling a town to read the
>name on the water tower is not unheard of either.
That is certainly true. Every section line is a potential runway. But
every section line looks like every other section line to me. Towns are
very similar so you have to think a bit about which one is which. That is
why I find it so important to keep close track of my position on the map
when flying back there.
Out west the terrain and towns tend to be very unique thus allowing one to
find oneself pretty quickly.
>But out west, just the
>thought of skimming over terrain at 500' AGL while the altimeter reads
>13,000' feet gives me a little shiver. What about a sudden downdraft?
>Quick weather change in the mountains? Available landing spots?
There is certainly a knack to mountain flying. You are very aware (or
should be) of the surface winds and how they cross the ridges so you can
watch out for a hidden rotor which is about the worst downdraft you can
encounter. I have gotten caught in a rotor and the turbulance combined
with the monsterous rate of descent is always good for a quick shot of
adrenaline. You have to be prepared to drop the nose (yes, drop it because
you want a fair bit of airspeed) and execute a tight 180.
I have never experienced the sudden weather change so I can't comment on
that. Yes, you can see the change on the slopes of the mountains caused by
the air moving near the surface but it doesn't usually reach out where I fly.
And sometimes there just isn't any place to land. You just hope you did a
good job on the engine and fuel system. People who regularly fly over the
mountains out here often ask me how I could have flown across the Atlantic
in my single-engine Comanche. I point out that a ditching in the ocean is
probably more survivable than a ditching into the side of a tree-encrusted
mountain. ;
)
Life is a terminal disease. You begin to die the moment you are born. You
can go through life so self-protective that you never experiencing
anything. On the other hand, you can asses the risks, equip yourself with
the best equipment, knowledge, and understanding so that the risks are
minimized. If you equate "age" with "experience" I think that this is what
is meant by the adage, "only the good die young." Go bite off a big piece
of life, chew it up, and savor the taste as it slips past the palate of
your mind.
>Actually,
>I look forward to making trips out west once my bird is finished. I can't
>wait to work on the challenge of improving my flying skills and learning how
>to properly handle the different challenges of flying in breathtaking, but
>somewhat unfriendly terrain.
You can do it. Prepare well and you will enjoy the experience.
>I hope you'll write more on the list regarding your trips. You put a big
>smile on my face this morning. Thanks for a strong dose of completion
>motivation.
Oh, I will. I have another, probably terminal disease; I like to talk. ;
)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
I'd like to see this information posted to the list.
---CTonnini(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> call me on the phone i help you 800 5823125 claudio
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
=
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help - Slider Anguish |
I didn't particularly like the way I resolved this problem but I like it better
than yours, Kyle.
I cut the center tube just behind the latch tube - an inch or so. I put it back
together with a sleeve and bolts so it isn't too pretty but it does preserve the
shape of the center bow and doesn't throw the roll bar off which might cause
problems you mention plus who knows what? I have no welder but could have had
it welded.
I don't know why these steel parts are so hard to get somewhere near right.
I *KNOW* that many weldments are manufactured every day to much tighter
tolerances than we need.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> I've got the roll bar bolted on, and the brace is bolted in too. I have
> convinced the canopy frame to fit the fuselage profle , but there is just one
> little problem: The gap between the canopy frame and the rollbar goes from
> 1/8" at the bottom (caused by the roller weldments) to about 1/2 inch at the
> top. The 1/2 inch gap at the top is ugly, and the latch mechanism won't work
> with that size gap. I've checked the roll bar for plumb, and it is - the
> canopy frame is the problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
I only know of 2 service bulletins from Vans specific to the RV-4,
#96-10-1 is about securing the filtered air box bolts tp the engine
#97-5-1 is about adding support brackets behind rear seat bulkhead.
there was also information about rudder pedal interference in the
R-vator. If there are more ad's or service bulletins I'd like to
know too.
Wayne Bonesteel
fuselage fuel system
>
> I'd like to see this information posted to the list.
>
> ---CTonnini(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > call me on the phone i help you 800 5823125 claudio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Lubrication |
Is there any way to pre-lubricate the camshaft on a Lycoming (0320-E2D)
that has been mounted about a year.
Thanks for responses.
Wayne Bonesteel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | How to calculate/measure horsepower WAS: power vs. torque |
It was suggested that I should archive this ( I figure it takes less than two
cents worth of disk space. There is more good stuff on the Lycoming web page
at:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/index.html
Several days ago Gordon Comfort wrote:
> Since TORQUE and RPM combine to describe horsepower, clearly one can
> expect more horsepower by turning the engine faster, and within limits,
> this is true.
The "limits" can come with a very small increase in rpm sometimes. Here is a
formula for horsepower that really helps the engine builder or modifier:
PLANk
P is for PRESSURE - more specifically, Brake Mean Effective Pressure
(BMEP) which is the average pressure inside the cylinder.
L is for STROKE - the distance the piston moves from bottom to top
A is for AREA - of all the cylinder circles -
(bore / 2 * bore / 2 * 3.14 * numberofcylinders)
N is for RPM - what Gordon said! Double N and HP doubles!
****ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL**** which is very difficult.
k is finagle's factor - it is adjusted to accomodate such things as
whether measurements are in feet, inches or millemeters etc.
L & A just mean a bigger engine. "The only substitute for cubic inches is
rectangular dollars" is pretty well true. Pressure can be increased by
supercharging or turbocharging and to a small extent by a ram air induction
system. Opening intake manifolds and carburetors affects pressure too. So, if
you can increase P and N you will increase HP but if you increase N at the
expense of P you may even lose some HP. This is typical because increasing N
pumps more air through the engine *IF* it can breath well enough.
The Chevy V6 is a smaller engine than the Lycoming O-360 but it produces more
power because P and N are greater. That is, L times A (cubic inches) is a
smaller amount but P and N are enough larger that it produces more power.
Either engine can be 'souped up' but there are risks, especially in the air of
course. What is attractive about the Chevy besides the lower cost of a new
installation of either, is that the Chevy has thousands of 'hop up' parts
available and it has been demonstrated to put out over 500 hp (with a TBO of ten
hours!) What makes the Lyc attractive is a record of success and easy
installation.
Some builders are running Lycomings that are souped up. I suppose this is safe
if the extra power is not used at low altitude. If you get a 180 hp engine up
to 200 hp it will still only be putting out 150 hp at 8000 feet, so the engine
components should stand the strain. (You are getting 75% power at 8000 feet
because P is lower.)
You can measure horsepower best by timing a climb with known weight. Not a bad
idea to do. Do a time to climb from one altitude to a higher and note down all
parameters - weight, configuration, temperature, barometer etc. Now, you have
a
test you can run if you think your engine is not running quite right. I suppose
it would be best to make the climb at Vx to minimize the effects of drag.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 (part 2) |
What a great quote Brian! I plan to save this one.
>
>>SNIP
>Life is a terminal disease. You begin to die the moment you are born. You
>can go through life so self-protective that you never experiencing
>anything. On the other hand, you can asses the risks, equip yourself with
>the best equipment, knowledge, and understanding so that the risks are
>minimized. If you equate "age" with "experience" I think that this is what
>is meant by the adage, "only the good die young." Go bite off a big piece
>of life, chew it up, and savor the taste as it slips past the palate of
>your mind.
>
>>>SNIP
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for ride to Oshkosh |
Listers:
I know this is very early, but I need to start planning this.
I would like to share a ride with someone to Oshkosh 99.
If you are leaving from the Pacific Northwest (I am in Bellevue, WA but I'm
willing to drive a few hours.) and would like someone to help cover your
flying costs, then I'd like to join you. I don't really care whether you are
going for a couple of days or the whole week. I have flown into Oshkosh
twice before (91, 94) and could provide valuable help as your co-pilot.
Please contact me off-list if you are interested.
Thanks,
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
RV-8 #80047, Riveting right wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
Pasted *directly* from JPI's web page:
OPEN LETTER TO MATRONICS REGARDING ITS INFRINGEMENT OF
J.P. INSTRUMENTS TRADEMARKS
Dear Mr. Dralle,
I am disappointed that you chose to publicize our
letter to you of February 5, 1999. It changes
a situation from one that could have been easily
resolved by the parties to a public dispute in
which personal egos can be perceived to be at stake.
We hope that such a situation can be
avoided.
I have received several emails and faxes from
individuals that have been misinformed regarding
the nature of our letter and the trademark rights of
J.P. Instruments for SCANNER, SMART
SCANNER and DIGISCAN. Since you have chosen not to
respond to my to my recent
telephone calls, I will assume that you harbor the
same misconceptions and will respond
accordingly.
Our letter of February 5, 1999 was just a letter, not
a formal pleading initiating a lawsuit. As
stated in the letter, legal action was not going to
be sought until February 19, 1999. Our letter
offered to answer any questions that you had about
our letter and asked you to respect our
client's intellectual property rights. You chose
instead to make the matter public on the Internet.
Since you have chosen not to respond to our telephone
calls, we have now filed suit against you
and Matronics for trademark infringement and false
designation of origin.
Our letter refers to trademark rights, not patent
rights or copyrights. J.P. Instruments seeks to
have Matronics change the name/trademark of its
FUELSCAN product, not stop selling the
actual product. Your own advertisements and web page
use "TM" next to the FUELSCAN
name indicating that Matronics, Inc. believes the
FUELSCAN mark is distinctive of its goods
and that others should be barred from using the
trademark, or any confusingly similar mark, in
commerce. In fact, your own public letter states that
the mark "FUELSCAN" has acquired
goodwill and value during its use.
J.P. Instruments seeks to enforce the same rights and
protect the same value of its intellectual
property rights in its marks SCANNER, SMART SCANNER
and DIGISCAN which
Matronics, Inc. is claiming in its advertisements and
web page.
J.P. Instruments has federal trademark registrations
for the trademarks SCANNER, SMART
SCANNER, and DIGISCAN for aircraft instruments and
components namely engine
temperature indicators. It cannot prevent others from
using the word "scanner" for radio/CB
scanners or scanners which are used with personal
computers. However J.P. Instruments can
and will prevent other manufacturers from using
SCANNER, SMART SCANNER,
DIGISCAN or any other confusingly similar mark, such
as FUELSCAN, as a trademark for
their aircraft parts.
An appropriate analogy is that people are free to use
the word "shell" when referring to seafood
and "apple" when referring to fruit. However, a
manufacturer or retailer cannot use SHELL for
its brand of gasoline or APPLE for its brand of
computers because these trademarks are
obviously previously established by Shell Oil and
Apple Computers, Inc. A search of federal
and state trademark databases shows that no other
aircraft parts manufacturer has registered
SCANNER or any derivative of SCAN as a trademark for
its goods.
J.P. Instruments has spent considerable time and
money building goodwill in the SCANNER
family of marks including winning a trademark
opposition proceeding before the Trademark
Trail and Appeal Board ("TTAB") against Electronics
International, Inc. Electronics
International, Inc. had originally filed an
application for the trademark SMART SCANNER.
The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office rejected the
application. Electronics International, Inc.
then filed an opposition to J.P. Instruments'
application for SCANNER. Electronics
International, Inc. alleged that SCANNER was a
generic term that was not protectable as a
trademark. Several members of the aviation industry
testified on behalf of J.P. Instruments and
its trademark rights, including competitors.
The TTAB ruled that SCANNER is not a generic term
for engine temperature indicators and
that the SCANNER trademark had acquired
distinctiveness and goodwill amongst consumers
such that consumers identify products with the
SCANNER mark with a single source, J.P.
Instruments. Electronics International, Inc.'s suit
was dismissed and it stopped using the
trademarks "ULTIMATE SCANNER" and " SMART SCANNER "
shortly thereafter.
Another common mistake among faxes and emails that we
have received is that J.P.
Instrument's product just indicates engine
temperature and that your product indicates fuel flow
and consumption. J.P. Instruments produces products
under the SCANNER family of marks
that provide engine temperature, fuel flow and fuel
consumption data. Thus, J.P. Instruments
and Matronics produce identical products that are
identified by trademarks that have "SCAN"
as the dominant feature. This makes confusion likely,
if not inevitable.
J.P. Instruments was established in 1985, and since
then it has progressed from its
SCANNER engine temperature gauges to a full line of
aviation gauges and moving maps for
the sport and professional pilots. Since J.P.
Instruments began seeking Federal Aviation
Administration ("FAA") approval for its gauges during
the late 1980's, a considerable expense
incurred in order to bring these instruments into
compliance with FAA certification requirements.
J.P. Instruments has become well known for the
reliability and superior quality of its aviation
products. J.P. Instruments is also well known for
producing quality aircraft gauges that offer
features our competition does not, and that includes
certain levels of FAA certification. J.P.
Instruments seeks to prevent confusion regarding its
SCANNER family of marks for products
that perform the same functions and that are sold in
the same marketplace as the FUELSCAN
product that is not FAA approved.
Your public campaign against J.P. Instruments has not
helped to alleviate this very real problem.
For several days, our phone lines, fax machines and
email were bombarded by prank calls,
obscene and distasteful letters, and generally
confused individuals who are unaware of the
valuable trademark rights at stake. In total, J.P.
Instruments' sales and operations were
disrupted for a number of days thereby forcing us to
file suit against you and your company. I
hope that we can eliminate the public and indirect
exchange of words and move forward to a
settlement of this dispute.
J.P. Instruments would like sport aviation consumers
to know that J.P. Instruments is committed
to supplying them with the best quality products and
giving the best service we can offer. To do
this, our reputation, goodwill and trademark rights
must be protected through the vigorous
enforcement of our rights. Our action against you and
Matronics is in conformity with this policy
and the protection of the products and rights we
worked so hard to develop and bring to the
marketplace.
Very Truly Yours.
J.P. Instruments, Inc
Joseph Polizzotto
President
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
| Subject: | Retractable RV8? |
I know this cuts against the grain of the KISS/cheap philosophy the Van
exposes, but are there any rumors of a retract RV8? Has anyone looked into
what would be required? Is there room in the wing?
The 8 has a nice mini-T28 look about it, a retract option would really
complete the picture.
- Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Empennage for sale |
Gary,
The horiz. spar is completed. The front spar has the brackets fabricated.
That's
all that has been done to the kit. I wrapped up everything and inventoried all
the
parts, everything's there and in their original bags. It's a nice kit for the money.
The
electric trim is $190.00 by itself. The prints, instruction manuals are all included.
I don't know what the shipping would be but if you want to pick it up, I can
give you
shelter and food overnight if you want it.
We might even go flying in my RV-4 if you wanted. Now, can U.P.S offer that kind
of service.
Jim
----------
> From: gary white <gwhite(at)vaxxine.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Empennage for sale
> Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 9:45 PM
>
>
> Hello Jim:
> WHere is the empennage located? I am in Niagara Falls. Canada Would you know
what it
> would cost to ship to Niagara Falls, New York or Buffalo , New York . Can it
be sent
> via U.P.S.? Is it a complete unstarted kit with manuals ?
> Gary White
> gwhite(at)vaxxine.com
>
> JimNolan wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > I still have the RV-6 Empennage for sale. Electric Trim included. Horz.
Spar
> > completed. $900
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Empennage for sale |
Gary,
I forgot to tell you, Warsaw, In is half way between Fort Wayne and South
Bend on US 30.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
Don,
Your letter seems very reasonable to me. I have sat on the fence myself
concerning this problem. Today, I am now rather pissed off about the
situation. It has come to push & shove from those with deeper pockets.
If it comes down legal costs, I'm willing to donate at least $100.00
minimum to a legal defense fund. Even if it means waiting for a few parts for
the RV. And I sure as hell won't buy anything from JPI.
Larry Adamson ---- top part of RV6A fusalage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Retractable RV8? |
MARK ITS IN THE WORKS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
Regardless of who is "legally" right, I now know what I WON'T be putting
in my RV-4.
Scott A. Littfin
Don D Gates wrote:
>
>
> Pasted *directly* from JPI's web page:
>
> OPEN LETTER TO MATRONICS REGARDING ITS INFRINGEMENT OF
>
> J.P. INSTRUMENTS TRADEMARKS
>
>
>
> Dear Mr. Dralle,
>
> I am disappointed that you chose to publicize our
> letter to you of February 5, 1999. It changes
> a situation from one that could have been easily
> resolved by the parties to a public dispute in
> which personal egos can be perceived to be at stake.
> We hope that such a situation can be
> avoided.
>
> I have received several emails and faxes from
> individuals that have been misinformed regarding
> the nature of our letter and the trademark rights of
> J.P. Instruments for SCANNER, SMART
> SCANNER and DIGISCAN. Since you have chosen not to
> respond to my to my recent
> telephone calls, I will assume that you harbor the
> same misconceptions and will respond
> accordingly.
>
> Our letter of February 5, 1999 was just a letter, not
> a formal pleading initiating a lawsuit. As
> stated in the letter, legal action was not going to
> be sought until February 19, 1999. Our letter
> offered to answer any questions that you had about
> our letter and asked you to respect our
> client's intellectual property rights. You chose
> instead to make the matter public on the Internet.
>
> Since you have chosen not to respond to our telephone
> calls, we have now filed suit against you
> and Matronics for trademark infringement and false
> designation of origin.
>
> Our letter refers to trademark rights, not patent
> rights or copyrights. J.P. Instruments seeks to
> have Matronics change the name/trademark of its
> FUELSCAN product, not stop selling the
> actual product. Your own advertisements and web page
> use "TM" next to the FUELSCAN
> name indicating that Matronics, Inc. believes the
> FUELSCAN mark is distinctive of its goods
> and that others should be barred from using the
> trademark, or any confusingly similar mark, in
> commerce. In fact, your own public letter states that
> the mark "FUELSCAN" has acquired
> goodwill and value during its use.
>
> J.P. Instruments seeks to enforce the same rights and
> protect the same value of its intellectual
> property rights in its marks SCANNER, SMART SCANNER
> and DIGISCAN which
> Matronics, Inc. is claiming in its advertisements and
> web page.
>
> J.P. Instruments has federal trademark registrations
> for the trademarks SCANNER, SMART
> SCANNER, and DIGISCAN for aircraft instruments and
> components namely engine
> temperature indicators. It cannot prevent others from
> using the word "scanner" for radio/CB
> scanners or scanners which are used with personal
> computers. However J.P. Instruments can
> and will prevent other manufacturers from using
> SCANNER, SMART SCANNER,
> DIGISCAN or any other confusingly similar mark, such
> as FUELSCAN, as a trademark for
> their aircraft parts.
>
> An appropriate analogy is that people are free to use
> the word "shell" when referring to seafood
> and "apple" when referring to fruit. However, a
> manufacturer or retailer cannot use SHELL for
> its brand of gasoline or APPLE for its brand of
> computers because these trademarks are
> obviously previously established by Shell Oil and
> Apple Computers, Inc. A search of federal
> and state trademark databases shows that no other
> aircraft parts manufacturer has registered
> SCANNER or any derivative of SCAN as a trademark for
> its goods.
>
> J.P. Instruments has spent considerable time and
> money building goodwill in the SCANNER
> family of marks including winning a trademark
> opposition proceeding before the Trademark
> Trail and Appeal Board ("TTAB") against Electronics
> International, Inc. Electronics
> International, Inc. had originally filed an
> application for the trademark SMART SCANNER.
> The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office rejected the
> application. Electronics International, Inc.
> then filed an opposition to J.P. Instruments'
> application for SCANNER. Electronics
> International, Inc. alleged that SCANNER was a
> generic term that was not protectable as a
> trademark. Several members of the aviation industry
> testified on behalf of J.P. Instruments and
> its trademark rights, including competitors.
>
> The TTAB ruled that SCANNER is not a generic term
> for engine temperature indicators and
> that the SCANNER trademark had acquired
> distinctiveness and goodwill amongst consumers
> such that consumers identify products with the
> SCANNER mark with a single source, J.P.
> Instruments. Electronics International, Inc.'s suit
> was dismissed and it stopped using the
> trademarks "ULTIMATE SCANNER" and " SMART SCANNER "
> shortly thereafter.
>
> Another common mistake among faxes and emails that we
> have received is that J.P.
> Instrument's product just indicates engine
> temperature and that your product indicates fuel flow
> and consumption. J.P. Instruments produces products
> under the SCANNER family of marks
> that provide engine temperature, fuel flow and fuel
> consumption data. Thus, J.P. Instruments
> and Matronics produce identical products that are
> identified by trademarks that have "SCAN"
> as the dominant feature. This makes confusion likely,
> if not inevitable.
>
> J.P. Instruments was established in 1985, and since
> then it has progressed from its
> SCANNER engine temperature gauges to a full line of
> aviation gauges and moving maps for
> the sport and professional pilots. Since J.P.
> Instruments began seeking Federal Aviation
> Administration ("FAA") approval for its gauges during
> the late 1980's, a considerable expense
> incurred in order to bring these instruments into
> compliance with FAA certification requirements.
>
> J.P. Instruments has become well known for the
> reliability and superior quality of its aviation
> products. J.P. Instruments is also well known for
> producing quality aircraft gauges that offer
> features our competition does not, and that includes
> certain levels of FAA certification. J.P.
> Instruments seeks to prevent confusion regarding its
> SCANNER family of marks for products
> that perform the same functions and that are sold in
> the same marketplace as the FUELSCAN
> product that is not FAA approved.
>
> Your public campaign against J.P. Instruments has not
> helped to alleviate this very real problem.
> For several days, our phone lines, fax machines and
> email were bombarded by prank calls,
> obscene and distasteful letters, and generally
> confused individuals who are unaware of the
> valuable trademark rights at stake. In total, J.P.
> Instruments' sales and operations were
> disrupted for a number of days thereby forcing us to
> file suit against you and your company. I
> hope that we can eliminate the public and indirect
> exchange of words and move forward to a
> settlement of this dispute.
>
> J.P. Instruments would like sport aviation consumers
> to know that J.P. Instruments is committed
> to supplying them with the best quality products and
> giving the best service we can offer. To do
> this, our reputation, goodwill and trademark rights
> must be protected through the vigorous
> enforcement of our rights. Our action against you and
> Matronics is in conformity with this policy
> and the protection of the products and rights we
> worked so hard to develop and bring to the
> marketplace.
>
> Very Truly Yours.
>
>
>
> J.P. Instruments, Inc
>
> Joseph Polizzotto
>
> President
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Lubrication |
>
>Is there any way to pre-lubricate the camshaft on a Lycoming (0320-E2D)
>that has been mounted about a year.
Turn the engine upside down.
Well, you never said that the technique had to be practical!
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering around the country in my RV-4 (part 2) |
>
>What a great quote Brian! I plan to save this one.
Thanks. I just realized there is a typo in there too. The word
"experiencing" should have been "experience."
>
>
>>
>>>SNIP
>>Life is a terminal disease. You begin to die the moment you are born. You
>>can go through life so self-protective that you never experiencing
>>anything. On the other hand, you can asses the risks, equip yourself with
>>the best equipment, knowledge, and understanding so that the risks are
>>minimized. If you equate "age" with "experience" I think that this is what
>>is meant by the adage, "only the good die young." Go bite off a big piece
>>of life, chew it up, and savor the taste as it slips past the palate of
>>your mind.
>>
>>>>SNIP
>>
>>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>>
>
>
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
I guess I would feel the way I do even if Matronics were not involved. It's
a purely personal set of values about what's right and what's wrong. Now
that it has come to this, it is VERY important that the other side not know
the size of the legal defense fund, if one is established. In fact, the
less the other side knows the better. It's very clear to me that letters to
JPI are a waste of time. Matt, you have our e-mail addresses. I would only
communicate with long term subscribers, if I were you.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
>
>Don,
>
> Your letter seems very reasonable to me. I have sat on the fence myself
>concerning this problem. Today, I am now rather pissed off about the
>situation. It has come to push & shove from those with deeper pockets.
>
> If it comes down legal costs, I'm willing to donate at least $100.00
>minimum to a legal defense fund. Even if it means waiting for a few parts
for
>the RV. And I sure as hell won't buy anything from JPI.
>
>Larry Adamson ---- top part of RV6A fusalage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
Don McNamara writes:
---snip---
> But, if this stuff
> continues and Matt is forced to drop the RV List, then I do care. That's the
> whole reason most of us are on Matt's side, or even care about this at all.
I'm more idealistic than that. I support Matt, and I think the list is
a great thing. But it's not the loss of the list that I fear. It's the
growing trend (as I perceive it) toward legal strong-arm tactics becoming
normal business practice. JPI is either being needlessly confrontational,
which is bad enough, or is trying to drive Matronics out of the market by
wrapping them up in legal costs, which, in my view, is unethical. That's
what bothers me about it.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
(-6 tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
>Don,
> If it comes down legal costs, I'm willing to donate at least
>$100.00 minimum to a legal defense fund. Even if it means waiting for a
few
>parts for the RV. And I sure as hell won't buy anything from JPI.
Larry Adamson ---- top part of RV6A fusalage.
I have bit my tongue on this, but now, I'll send twenty when Matt asks
for it.
Larry Mac Donald
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lopez, Steve" <lopezs(at)pweh.com> |
| Subject: | Retractable RV8? |
Mark check out www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896rtk-1.jpg <http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896rtk-1.jpg>
Nice photo
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark S. Jennings [SMTP:markjenn(at)halcyon.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 4:58 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Retractable RV8?
I know this cuts against the grain of the KISS/cheap philosophy the Van
exposes, but are there any rumors of a retract RV8? Has anyone looked
into
what would be required? Is there room in the wing?
The 8 has a nice mini-T28 look about it, a retract option would really
complete the picture.
- Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
In case some of you may be considering this system what follows is a brief
of our experience with it.
We have the LASAR system installed on our Cessna 172N, the engine is a
Lycoming O360 A4M.
We installed the system with a cockpit light to indicate failure and a
circuit breaker that we can pull to remove power from the system.
We are very happy with the performance of the system.
We operate at Taupo Airport elevation 1300ft and most flights are to the
ranges south-east of Taupo where we fly people to airstrips with elevations
between 2100ft and 3300ft. Normally we do not exceed 4000ft enroute. We
cruise using 2500 RPM.
We are getting fuel consumption's around 30 to 33 litres per hour. We only
have to look at the spark plugs each 100 hrs, even then there is normally no
lead build up and very little erosion requiring only minimal gap adjustment.
For comparison our Grumman Tiger Lyc O360 A4K using similar power settings
and flight profiles is using about 40 litres phr and requires plug cleaning
and gap adjustment every 50 hrs.
Well that is the good stuff now-
There are two bugs in the software that cause the cockpit light to come on.
1) Apparently the dwell voltage of the mags follows a sine wave pattern, the
controller checks this voltage when you do a mag check. If the voltage is
checked near the 0 voltage part of the wave the controller reverts to back
up mag mode. This requires recycling power to the controller via the circuit
breaker to reset it and get LASAR mode. We get this fault about once every
20 mag checks.
2) When landing on the bush airstrips in turbulent conditions frequent
sometimes abrupt power changes are required. The controller senses these
power changes as out of parameter manifold pressures and turns the cockpit
light on. The unit stays in LASAR mode and the light goes out after about 20
seconds.
Both these faults are irritating rather than problems and Unison are
apparently working on software changes to correct them.
The biggest problem we have had is the reliability of the magneto's.
Shortly after the LASAR system we had to change both mags for ones with
upgraded switching. We have since had the Right Mag coil fail at 113hrs
TTIS.
We can not fault the back up from Unison, they have been very prompt in
replacing parts, in return we provided them with detailed information on the
conditions when faults have occurred. Due to our remoteness from them (1/2 a
planet away) they have provided us with two backup LASAR mags and two
standard mags. We sure hate having a working aeroplane grounded.
We are waiting to receive the latest upgraded mags which will (fingers
crossed) see an end to the mag problems.
We intend to fit a LASAR system to our Grumman Tiger, probably when the new
mags are available. We will also fit it to our RV-8 when its built, although
when you are looking that far into the future there may be something better
available.
If there is any interest for it I'll post a report on how the new mags go
once we have put some time on them.
Ordering an empennage kit soon!
Arthur Whitehead
Christine & Arthur
Air Charter Taupo
New Zealand
act(at)xtra.co.nz
www.airchartertaupo.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)vvm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
>
Absolutely Right On Tedd!!!
Bruce Knoll
>Don McNamara writes:
>---snip---
>> But, if this stuff
>> continues and Matt is forced to drop the RV List, then I do care.
That's the
>> whole reason most of us are on Matt's side, or even care about this at all.
>
>I'm more idealistic than that. I support Matt, and I think the list is
>a great thing. But it's not the loss of the list that I fear. It's the
>growing trend (as I perceive it) toward legal strong-arm tactics becoming
>normal business practice. JPI is either being needlessly confrontational,
>which is bad enough, or is trying to drive Matronics out of the market by
>wrapping them up in legal costs, which, in my view, is unethical. That's
>what bothers me about it.
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
>(-6 tail)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More Rocket Proto Photos |
Rocket Men,
I have posted more photos of the F-1 Rocket prototype on our webpage. These
photos were taken all during the same time period. The photos show the new 1
piece front sideskins for the fuselage, the turtledeck skins, the one piece
wing 032 bottom skin, and our new 26 gals per side fuel tanks. Notice also
that the firewall change is also shown (if you look carefully).
The protoship is being shipped to Florida tomorrow, Wednesday, and should be
here in my hangar within the week. I will be posting a progress and photos as
we go as to the further building of the F-1 Proto, we will be continuing the
build after Sun n Fun. So, please check our website out periodically to see
the developments.
Thanks,
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
www.matronics.com/rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur E. Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
I have followed the JPI situation with concern as I am currently
building a RV4. Perhaps we should support Matt in another way. If we
spent our donations not on a legal fund, but on a fund to help Matt make
needed changes in product literature, we might resolve the situation
quickly. The suit should be dropped and a written statement so
provided. A transition period must be provided.
Many of us have already decided not to use JPI products and I count
myself among this group. Long term continuation of this voluntary
boycott which was in no way suggested by Matt, would hurt JPI where it
counts--the bottom line!
Some new names might be suggested by the group. A case in point might
be "Matroinics automatic fuel quantity verifier" or
"Matronics fuelcheck" or "fuel verifier" etc.
Arthur E. Glaser -- airplane(at)megsinet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
In a message dated 3/23/99 8:28:29 PM Central Standard Time, lm4(at)Juno.com
writes:
> >Don,
> > If it comes down legal costs, I'm willing to donate at least
> >$100.00 minimum to a legal defense fund. Even if it means waiting for a
> few
> >parts for the RV. And I sure as hell won't buy anything from JPI.
> Larry Adamson ---- top part of RV6A fusalage.
>
I
I am so sick of this post. Matt has a great attorney and law firm. His
attorny has clients like Disney, Nike, garfield and Westinghouse so he is well
taken care off. If he needs moeny he will ask for it. If he doesnt he wont
ask. So stop trying to make such a big deal out of this. Stop wasting
everyone time and space on this list tell matt asks for help
chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Your Name <tmhiggins(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Newbie RV-6 questions |
Hello,
I just joined the list, and I have some RV-6A preview plans on order
(they are back-ordered). Although now I'm leaning toward the RV-6.
1. How much can you complete before installing the wings on an RV-6? I
tried searching the archives, found lots on RV-6A false spars, not much
on the RV-6. Can you get all the engine, wiring, panel, plumbing done,
on the gear, etc.? Does it add much building time or difficulty?
2. Are there any RV-specific kits/manuals/instructions for doing the
various systems work on RV's? Other than general techniques books like
the 'Firewall Forward' book that has been recommended to me?
3. I read plenty in the archives on O-360's and constant speed props.
But I couldn't really find too many quantitative answers. What is the
typical increase in initial climb rate over Van's specs for the 180 hp
RV-6?
Thanks,
Tom Higgins
Newman Lake, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
Arthur,
Please keep us informed of your progress.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
I made a rubber gasket for the access plate on my RV-6 which I flew for
about 5
years. When I opened the tank up to replace the senders, this time I
used the
cork/rubber gasket from Van's and it worked well also. If you make the
gasket
out of rubber be sure to use a rubber that aviation fuel proof. I think
what I
used was butyl rubber. The problem I always had was the screws leaked
at the
sender. What is really needed is fuel proof nut plates that have built
in "O"
rings to seal when the screw is tightened. They are expensive I am sure,
but I
am sure they would stop the leaks. I am now starting another RV-6A
Q/B.
Looking for an 0-360 engine on the east coast. But so is everybody else.
I don't
know if this answers your question or not. Good luck.
Flyhars(at)ibm.net
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
> I have a fuel odor in my cockpit which I've traced to a leak on the
> access door at the root of the left tank.
>
> The tank is now sealed with a cork gasket which certainly needs to be
> replaced. Is this method still considered the recomended way to do this?
> Is there another material that may be superior? Are there different
> grades of cork used for this application?
>
> Thnaks for any help you can give.
>
> Andy
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Tedd,
I agree with you.
I have sent an e-mail, Fax and (3) letters to JPI all very professional.
In each I discussed the issues and impact of their actions. I also
requested a response from their CEO. I have yet to hear from JPI, short
of their web page statements.
They clearly do not get the message and blame the problem (they created)
on Matronics. I doubt that will ever have a reality check - poor
management usually blames anyone other then themselves, until the
business owners/Boards, force them to confront the reality. It's a
shame that JPI insists on impaling themselves, they do make a good
product, but their kind of strong arm tactics are unacceptable no matter
how good their product may be.
The important item in their response is that they are very upset that
their actions were made public. I'd suggest that we keep the lights on
and give the facts to anyone who will listen - they can then make up
their own mind.
Regarding principle: It's very very easy in this day and age to be
pragmatic and ignore unethical behavior, but I'd pose (2) questions for
consideration.
(1) If this behavior becomes the norm (maybe closer than
we think) who will stand with us when we become the
Target?
(2) When we near the end of our time, will we look back
at ourselves and see a courageous person of
principle or a victim?
See you at Sun-N-FUN >>>
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A in progress
************************
>I'm more idealistic than that. I support Matt, and I think the list is
>a great thing. But it's not the loss of the list that I fear. It's
the
>growing trend (as I perceive it) toward legal strong-arm tactics
becoming
>normal business practice. JPI is either being needlessly
confrontational,
>which is bad enough, or is trying to drive Matronics out of the market
by
>wrapping them up in legal costs, which, in my view, is unethical.
That's
>what bothers me about it.
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
>(-6 tail)
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie RV-6 questions |
> 1. How much can you complete before installing the wings on an RV-6? I
>tried searching the archives, found lots on RV-6A false spars, not much
>on the RV-6. Can you get all the engine, wiring, panel, plumbing done,
>on the gear, etc.? Does it add much building time or difficulty?
On an RV-6 you could complete virtually everything except rigging the controls
in the wings and running various electrical and fuel related plumbing into the
wings. You also probably wouldn't want to install the wingtips until you
mount and rig the controls. This leaves you with 95+% of an airplane to build
before you must attach the wings. Shouldn't add time or complexity.
> 2. Are there any RV-specific kits/manuals/instructions for doing the
>various systems work on RV's? Other than general techniques books like
>the 'Firewall Forward' book that has been recommended to me?
The Orndorff Videos are great, as are the detailed instructions written by
Frank Justice. You should be able to find the videos through Avery or
Cleveland, and you can find the Justice notes if you search the links on the
Matronics site.
>3. I read plenty in the archives on O-360's and constant speed props.
>But I couldn't really find too many quantitative answers. What is the
>typical increase in initial climb rate over Van's specs for the 180 hp
>Rv-6?
Some of this may be answered on Van's website in the aircraft performance
section. You could always call or e-mail Van's.
> Thanks,
>Tom Higgins
>Newman Lake, WA >>
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable RV8? |
Hi Mark,
I happened to see a set of full size plans for an RV8 retractable drawn up
by a well known aeronautical engineer. An individual has already started
construction on the gear itself. I would like to be able to tell you more,
but it was the persons wishes not to divulge the specifics at this time. I
felt privileged being able to see the plans.
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark S. Jennings <markjenn(at)halcyon.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 11:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Retractable RV8?
>
>I know this cuts against the grain of the KISS/cheap philosophy the Van
>exposes, but are there any rumors of a retract RV8? Has anyone looked into
>what would be required? Is there room in the wing?
>
>The 8 has a nice mini-T28 look about it, a retract option would really
>complete the picture.
>
>- Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/23/99 8:28:29 PM Central Standard Time, lm4(at)Juno.com
> writes:
>
> > >Don,
> > > If it comes down legal costs, I'm willing to donate at least
> > >$100.00 minimum to a legal defense fund. Even if it means waiting for a
> > few
> > >parts for the RV. And I sure as hell won't buy anything from JPI.
> > Larry Adamson ---- top part of RV6A fusalage.
> >
> I
> I am so sick of this post. Matt has a great attorney and law firm. His
> attorny has clients like Disney, Nike, garfield and Westinghouse so he is well
> taken care off. If he needs moeny he will ask for it. If he doesnt he wont
> ask. So stop trying to make such a big deal out of this. Stop wasting
> everyone time and space on this list tell matt asks for help
>
> chris wilcox
>
Chris
sorry to waste your time and space....Geez. Being concerned is not
wasting everyone's time and space as far as I am concerned. Matt was
worried about this or he would not have posted his concern in
the first place.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 proto sale/trade |
I have put my RV prototype built by Art Chard back on the market. I will
sell out right but am also considering trades for nice RV 3's, or rv4's or
rv6's needing some work.
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
http://www.infowest.com/personal/b/bundyb/ Go to this
page to see
photos and specs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
toverton wrote:
>
>
> Hi Doug
> It is my understanding that if your cowl is polyester you should stick to
> polyester resin. Generally speeking epoxy and polyester don't bond to each
> other anything nearly as strong as same resin to same resin, something
> about polyester being a chemical bond and epoxy being a mechanical bond.
> Polyester resin is available almost everywhere, ( boat and automotive
> stores and in fairly small quantities and at about 1/2 the price of epoxy.
> As far as your sanding the stuff try using a wax remover to get the surface
> wax of and you can use a stiff wire brush to ruff up the surface for your
> bonding. Mat or cloth I don't think matters. IMHO
> Hope this helps
> Tom Overton
>
Tom - Thanks for the advice on this sticky matter. I tried wiping the fiberglass
down with thinner and the wax came right off. It is now a easy (I almost was
going to say a pleasure) job to sand it down. I went and got some polyester
resin today and will follow your directions. I'll save the West Epoxy for the
gear leg stiffeners - it doesn't stink as bad :-)
Tanks again,
Doug Murray RV-6 Getting ready to work with that OTHER stuff!
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
A great positive idea
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
-----Original Message-----
From: Arthur E. Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site
>
>I have followed the JPI situation with concern as I am currently
>building a RV4. Perhaps we should support Matt in another way. If we
>spent our donations not on a legal fund, but on a fund to help Matt make
>needed changes in product literature, we might resolve the situation
>quickly. The suit should be dropped and a written statement so
>provided. A transition period must be provided.
>
>Many of us have already decided not to use JPI products and I count
>myself among this group. Long term continuation of this voluntary
>boycott which was in no way suggested by Matt, would hurt JPI where it
>counts--the bottom line!
>
>Some new names might be suggested by the group. A case in point might
>be "Matroinics automatic fuel quantity verifier" or
>"Matronics fuelcheck" or "fuel verifier" etc.
>
>Arthur E. Glaser -- airplane(at)megsinet.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
In a message dated 3/23/99 11:35:15 PM Central Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
> Chris
> sorry to waste your time and space....Geez. Being concerned is not
> wasting everyone's time and space as far as I am concerned. Matt was
> worried about this or he would not have posted his concern in
> the first place.
>
>
And yet matt has not said anything since he first posted it over 1 month ago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting |
Hi Brian:
Your case is one that you don't have to many worries for the following
reasons:
The engine has been run recently.
Most important it is going to an idea climate.
Will not be in storage very long.
With the dry dehydrator plugs and kept in a dry warm place you should be
ok. Take a pump oil can and warm up some aviation oil so it is good and
thin and thouroughly oil the cylinders through the bottom spark plug holes
then replace the lower plugs. The four dehydrators on top should be all you
need. Don't turn the crankshaft until you are ready to run it.
I wouldn't recommend any WD 40 ,it is used more as an anti seize and I am
not sure what all is in it.
Eustace
----------
> From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting
> Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:29 PM
>
>
>
> >If you have questions please ask and will try to get answers for you.
> >
> >Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing bottom forward skin on the
> 6A
>
>
> Eustace,
>
> What about a used engine, that was run about four weeks ago on a test
> stand, and will have the oil drained before crating and shipment in
> about one week? This is my situation, and I wondered if dessicant plugs
> and maybe a shot of WD40 into a plug hole in each cylinder would suffice
> through the summer. I live in New Mexico, which is generally rather dry,
> except for the occasional summer afternoon thunderstorm. The engine will
> not run until the fall...unless the Hangar God's smile upon me. (They're
> hard to find around here.)
>
> Thanks so much for your wealth of engine knowledge! I've sure learned a
> LOT from you and Bart.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> "N" number request in, engine on the way...it's gonna fly someday!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/23/99 11:35:15 PM Central Standard Time,
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> > Chris
> > sorry to waste your time and space....Geez. Being concerned is not
> > wasting everyone's time and space as far as I am concerned. Matt was
> > worried about this or he would not have posted his concern in
> > the first place.
> >
> >
> And yet matt has not said anything since he first posted it over 1 month ago
>
As he said he wouldn't in his last comments on the matter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-mail contact for Vans Aircraft |
Hi Arthur (and everyone else)!
Yes you are using the correct address. I don't know the specifics of your
case, so I'll make a general statement that could apply to you, and applies
to many others:
Van's Aircraft responds to e-mails sent to them. If you ask a question, in
almost all cases, you'll get an answer. Theoretically, this is all nice
and good. However, in practice, way too many of the answers sent out just
bounce back to Van's. The reason: incorrect e-mail address information.
The solution: make absolutely sure that your e-mail program is sending out
your correct e-mail address as the From: and Reply-To: lines. You should
also make a note of your actual address in the body of the e-mail message.
It's frustrating to send an e-mail to someone (like Van's) and never
receive a reply. It's also frustrating for Van's to be unable to respond
to customer and potential customer inquiries...
Hope this helps,
~Jeremy
Jeremy W. Benedict * jwb(at)europa.com * (503) 514-3100 vm/pager
Intel-Hawthorne * RV-x Pilot
Disclaimer: I speak neither for my employer, nor for my client.
>Sent request for this info to info(at)vansaircraft.com with no response.
>Am I using the wrong address?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Mills <tmills(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Brakes to right side |
Well today I have crawled in and out of our aeroplane so many times I lost count.
I have just fitted the brakes to the right hand side, with no luck so far.
As I don't have the drawings for this aeroplane and I have only reached the wing
stage on my 8, I tried to fit the brakes using common sense ( what a mistake
)
What I have done is fitted the pedals and plumbed the new pedals with tee's at
the firewall, so now what happens is when I pump the brakes on one side, the brake
fluid runs through the other side and back to the bottle at the firewall,
if I get someone to hold there feet on the brakes next to me all is fine. Have
I plumbed it all wrong or do I just need one way valves at each master cylinder
?
I would be very pleased if you could cc to my home address below as I really would
like to sort this out soon.
Thank You
Trevor Mills 80605
( my back is killing me)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Higgins <tmhiggins(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie RV-6 questions |
Kyle,
Thanks, that 95% was what I was hoping to hear. As for the O-360/CSP
performance, it's not on Van's web site, and I did email them. They
didn't have the numbers and suggested I post a question.
Tom Higgins
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> >3. I read plenty in the archives on O-360's and constant speed props.
> >But I couldn't really find too many quantitative answers. What is the
> >typical increase in initial climb rate over Van's specs for the 180 hp
> >Rv-6?
>
> Some of this may be answered on Van's website in the aircraft performance
> section. You could always call or e-mail Van's.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >Tom Higgins
> >Newman Lake, WA >>
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Mills <tmills(at)powerup.com.au> |
PS. I forgot to put my home e-mail address on my last post
tmills(at)powerup.com.au
Thank You.
(After a long bath. I just what to fix it.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JPI "Open Letter" posting on their web site |
Add me as yet another who's awakened. And boy am I pissed.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
---------
March 23, 1999
Mr. Joseph Polizzotto, President
JP Instruments, Inc.
3402-I West MacArthur Blvd.
Santa Ana, CA 92704
Dear Mr. Polizzotto:
As a fellow business owner I urge you to reconsider and drop your suit
against Matronics, Inc. I have just read your open letter to Matt Dralle
and realized that I have been silent too long. I had hoped reason and
economic realities would prevail and end this amicably.
Frankly, I am appalled at your stated course of action. This suit is a
no-win for everyone except the lawyers whether you prevail or not. And I
don't believe you will. Use of a derivative form of "Scanner" is far
different than the full word and not at all confusing to your potential
customer base. If not, then you are infringing on someone's mark by using
the derivative form of "navigator" on your Nav-2000 product. Further, I
have seen two recent magazine articles on your product and in all cases it
was referred to as the EDM-700, and the name "Scanner" was never mentioned.
Your advertisements in aviation magazines also use only EDM-700 and not
"Scanner". You can't preserve a mark you don't use.
Your lawyers have done you a serious disservice. While they may have given
you technically correct legal advice, they apparently never presented the
potential downside. Your original letter to Matt, with its veiled threat of
a lawsuit, was clearly intended to buffalo a small company into rolling over
rather than fighting. What you got instead was a serious consumer backlash.
When you failed to react to that, you alienated an even larger block of
consumers. With the suit, it will get worse still and your sales will
suffer for it, probably permanently. In my case, I was planning to purchase
two Nav-2000's (~$10,000) but will now find another source.
How much sales erosion can you stand? Yet you plan to add another
$20-30,000 in legal expenses to press the suit with no assurance of
success. What will you gain if you continue? Is it worth losing a half
million dollars in sales? Ironically, your initial strategy might have
worked if Matt could have afforded to absorb the name change costs. He
might have rolled over or you might have been able to buy the name for the
cost of changing it. This has gotten way out of hand. It's time to cut your
losses, do some damage control and get out of this gracefully. Do the right
thing. End it now.
Sincerely,
Greg Young
President
C/S Solutions, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie RV-6 questions |
> 3. I read plenty in the archives on O-360's and constant speed props.
> But I couldn't really find too many quantitative answers. What is the
> typical increase in initial climb rate over Van's specs for the 180 hp
> RV-6?
Tom,
Kyle answered your other questions, so I'll step in on the rate of climb.
If everything else is the same, it is easy to estimate the change in
rate of climb with change in power. At the same weight, and speed,
the drag is the same, so any extra power increases the climb rate.
Lets assume a propeller efficiency of 75%, so we only get to use 15
of the extra 20 hp (assuming that the 160 hp with constant speed is
the baseline).
Power = rate of doing work. 1 Horsepower = 33,000 ft-lb/min.
We are lifting a 1650 lb aircraft.
Extra rate of climb = 20 X 0.75 X 33,000/1650 = 300 ft/min.
Actual results will vary due to prop efficiency being a bit different
from the assumed value, variations in power output of engines and
variations between aircraft that affect drag.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping cost |
> <<was able to purchase a tail kit (6A) from a gentleman who lost his
>medical. Now that I'm "motivated", I'm trying to decide if I can swing
>the QB, once the tail is done.>>>
G'Day listers,
I would love to live in the US and pay the frieght content for a QB kit.
Last year an RV8 QB was freighted to Brisbane for USD$3500, and then had to
be road freighted to Cairns (2000mls) by road as an extra!! The Ozzie dollar
(peso) is $0.62 US. Please guys, you are getting off pretty cheap!! Any
mistakes, that we internationals make, costs us dearly in freight, which
hurts like "Sh*%" But we all push on, why, cause the RV is the best airpalne
going.
Have a good one.
Ken (how long can ya put off the proseal day) Glover Newcastle Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Planner software |
I am not an Aussie, but I have some comments. I bought the software from
Panel Planner for $100. US. It is interesting and fun. I have reservations
about how useful it will turn out to be.
It has several RV-6 blank panels with no indication which one is an accurate
depiction of the one that we actually install in our planes. I used a blank
that looked most like the one I have riveted up and screwed into my plane.
It has a lot of bitmap pictures of instruments, radios and the like. It
does not have bitmaps of most of the instruments in Van's Accessory catalog,
an omission that I find hard to understand. For instance, if you want to
put ISSPRO fuel gauges in your panel you have to look through the Panel
Planner database for fuel gauges that look like ISSPRO (VDO maybe) because
ISSPRO is not available. Perhaps most of the people who use the software
are not RV builders or perhaps they are working on certificated aircraft,
not experimentals. It has some but not all of the instruments and other
panel stuff sold by Aircraft Spruce.
The software keeps track of the weight of the stuff you are putting into the
panel as well as the cost. For some reason, though, the time will come when
you open a saved panel and find that weight and cost have returned to zero,
although the stuff is still on the panel and the list of equipment you've
selected is also accurate.
The software does not have any capacity to advise you if you have located a
piece of equipment where there will be a conflict behind the panel. What
kind of conflicts? Well, conflicts with the canopy hinges if you are
building a tip-up RV-6A for example. Or conflicts with the sloping skin
ahead of the instrument panel. Or conflicts with the braces between the
panel and the sub-panel. Or conflicts with the angle bracing that is
riveted around the edges of the panel. You can design your dream panel on
the computer, but make sure you go out to the shop and check each location
for each wonderful piece of hardware before you starting cutting up your
panel.
The software also does not warn if you are placing instruments too close
together. You can set the auto-space feature to any spacing you like. The
default is 3/8 of an inch. It is awkward to use, though, especially with
instruments that have other instruments on three or four sides. Measure and
double check the actual panel before cutting holes or running off an AutoCAD
template for cutting.
If it cost more than $100 I would say that the software is not worth it. At
$100 is it probably priced as high as it should be. I hope to sell my copy
to another builder after I am done and recoup part of the cost. I may
donate my copy to the local EAA chapter for all to use.
By the way, I was going to use a JPI digital tachometer, but I will not now.
I guess that makes me a misguided crank. At least I am not obscene.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A, odds and ends while waiting for the finishing kit
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have a copy of Panel Planner software, or any
comments,
regarding use there of. (will not be putting JPI in panel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | iems7(at)aadc.com (Mike Smallwood 230-8123 Dept. 6960) |
| Subject: | Liability Issues |
I am considering building an RV4. Though I don't plan on selling it, what are
the liability issues associated with selling an Experimental aircraft?
Also, what is a Barnard Quick Build Wing Kit and would this be recommended?
Mike Smallwood
RV4 Wanna Be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fouga434(at)aol.com |
PLEASE REMOVE FROM ALL MAIL FORWARDING LISTS
THANKS NICK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instrument sub-panel? |
I talked to Van's and they told me that basically you had to cut out the sub
panel eo make space for the appropriate instuments. They also said it was not
compromised structurally by doing this, Bob Claypool Fresno, CA. installling
engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | What paint do you all use? |
What paint do most of you folks use on the skin over the instrument panel
under the windshield? It seems like a good quality flat black is in order to
prevent the glare but I thought black there would cook the instruments when
the plane is sitting in 100 degree temps here in Fresno. Any other good non
glare paints that may work? Bob Claypool
Fresno, CA. engine and instruments installing. Yippie!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner software |
Ken
A great software package. He has a web page the link is
www.panelplanner.com. I use it just about every day. It can make the layout
process very simple plus gives the plane builder a good idea how his panel
will look in the finished stage. I recomend the professional version because
it allows you to import into CAD programs, and the kind of business i'm in
that's a plus.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
panelcut(at)aol.com
(901) 527-5265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
-----Original Message-----
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com <RClayp5888(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 8:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: What paint do you all use?
>
>What paint do most of you folks use on the skin over the instrument panel
>under the windshield? It seems like a good quality flat black is in order
to
>prevent the glare but I thought black there would cook the instruments when
>the plane is sitting in 100 degree temps here in Fresno. Any other good non
>glare paints that may work? Bob Claypool
>Fresno, CA. engine and instruments installing. Yippie!!!!
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------
>Use black carpet - it does not transfer the heat to the metal underneath
like the paint does.>
Martin Sutter N868CM 1350 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | What paint do you all use? |
Bob,
May I suggest Rustoleum satin black. Flat black is hard to keep clean and
gloss black is too shiney. Satin is just right. I used it for my panel color
and its beautiful and only has the slightest sheen to it.
One important tip. Don't do touchups. Paint the whole thing at once. If you
get a run let it dry sand it off and PAINT THE WHOLE THING AT ONCE, even if
its a light coat on the ok part, the entire panel must be wet with paint or
you will see the repair.
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV-6A - Flying ( I love that word )
1.5 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com [mailto:RClayp5888(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 6:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: What paint do you all use?
What paint do most of you folks use on the skin over the instrument panel
under the windshield? It seems like a good quality flat black is in order to
prevent the glare but I thought black there would cook the instruments when
the plane is sitting in 100 degree temps here in Fresno. Any other good non
glare paints that may work? Bob Claypool
Fresno, CA. engine and instruments installing. Yippie!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)vvm.com> |
Good morning JPI fans,
The following caused my old retired brain to work a little. Maybe some of
us should write individual board members. Anybody have a list with
ytheirown company addresses. Send them copies of JPI's communications to
Matt, and to the list accompanied with your own reasoned comments.
Bruce
> poor
>management usually blames anyone other then themselves, until the
>business owners/Boards, force them to confront the reality. >>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n78946(at)prodigy.net |
Hello,
Anybody need an engine for their RV? I have a Lycoming 200hp IO360-C1C for sale.
It has 1750 hrs since reman. It is disassembled and is for an experimental
plane only. It comes with fuel injection system, alternator, starter, mags,
fuel pump, and logs. I am in Los Angeles, and I want $5,000. Let me know.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner software |
You may want to check out Sam's review on this one. There are a few blurbs
on my site as well. I highly recommend it, but I do agree that it does have
quite a few bugs in it. Still worth the $100. Especially if you plan on
having Steve cut your panel, because it will save Steve time, thus you
money.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>
>Ken
>
> A great software package. He has a web page the link is
>www.panelplanner.com. I use it just about every day. It can make the layout
>process very simple plus gives the plane builder a good idea how his panel
>will look in the finished stage. I recomend the professional version
because
>it allows you to import into CAD programs, and the kind of business i'm in
>that's a plus.
>
>Steve Davis
>The Panel Pilot
>panelcut(at)aol.com
>(901) 527-5265
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
Thanks guys for the info of your LASAR experience/data. I bet the list will
be very interested about your future posts/data.
Here are the two basic questions I have:
1 What are your payback hours calculations? What I meant is how many hours
do you need to fly to save on fuel (petrol) cost to pay for the LASAR?
2 Do you expect that total engine performence for LASAR vs standard
magnetos will be the same? Any data on this?
>
>In case some of you may be considering this system what follows is a brief
>of our experience with it.
>
>We have the LASAR system installed on our Cessna 172N, the engine is a
>Lycoming O360 A4M.
>
>We installed the system with a cockpit light to indicate failure and a
>circuit breaker that we can pull to remove power from the system.
>
>We are very happy with the performance of the system.
>
>We operate at Taupo Airport elevation 1300ft and most flights are to the
>ranges south-east of Taupo where we fly people to airstrips with elevations
>between 2100ft and 3300ft. Normally we do not exceed 4000ft enroute. We
>cruise using 2500 RPM.
>
>We are getting fuel consumption's around 30 to 33 litres per hour. We only
>have to look at the spark plugs each 100 hrs, even then there is normally no
>lead build up and very little erosion requiring only minimal gap adjustment.
>
>For comparison our Grumman Tiger Lyc O360 A4K using similar power settings
>and flight profiles is using about 40 litres phr and requires plug cleaning
>and gap adjustment every 50 hrs.
>
>Well that is the good stuff now-
>
>There are two bugs in the software that cause the cockpit light to come on.
>
>1) Apparently the dwell voltage of the mags follows a sine wave pattern, the
>controller checks this voltage when you do a mag check. If the voltage is
>checked near the 0 voltage part of the wave the controller reverts to back
>up mag mode. This requires recycling power to the controller via the circuit
>breaker to reset it and get LASAR mode. We get this fault about once every
>20 mag checks.
>
>2) When landing on the bush airstrips in turbulent conditions frequent
>sometimes abrupt power changes are required. The controller senses these
>power changes as out of parameter manifold pressures and turns the cockpit
>light on. The unit stays in LASAR mode and the light goes out after about 20
>seconds.
>
>Both these faults are irritating rather than problems and Unison are
>apparently working on software changes to correct them.
>
>The biggest problem we have had is the reliability of the magneto's.
>
>Shortly after the LASAR system we had to change both mags for ones with
>upgraded switching. We have since had the Right Mag coil fail at 113hrs
>TTIS.
>
>We can not fault the back up from Unison, they have been very prompt in
>replacing parts, in return we provided them with detailed information on the
>conditions when faults have occurred. Due to our remoteness from them (1/2 a
>planet away) they have provided us with two backup LASAR mags and two
>standard mags. We sure hate having a working aeroplane grounded.
>
>We are waiting to receive the latest upgraded mags which will (fingers
>crossed) see an end to the mag problems.
>
>We intend to fit a LASAR system to our Grumman Tiger, probably when the new
>mags are available. We will also fit it to our RV-8 when its built, although
>when you are looking that far into the future there may be something better
>available.
>
>If there is any interest for it I'll post a report on how the new mags go
>once we have put some time on them.
>
>Ordering an empennage kit soon!
>
>Arthur Whitehead
>
>Christine & Arthur
>Air Charter Taupo
>New Zealand
>
>act(at)xtra.co.nz
>www.airchartertaupo.co.nz
>
>
Lothar |||-6A; just finisched drilling gear mounts in Lakewood/ Denver, CO |||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
Here in Arizona, I plan to use "Dash Mat" material.
Basically, real short pile carpet.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6-Fuse N606RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
Why not ask the expert? Harry Fenton? harry(at)unisonindustries.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Unison Industries LASAR ignition
>
>Thanks guys for the info of your LASAR experience/data. I bet the list
will
>be very interested about your future posts/data.
>
>Here are the two basic questions I have:
>1 What are your payback hours calculations? What I meant is how many
hours
>do you need to fly to save on fuel (petrol) cost to pay for the LASAR?
>2 Do you expect that total engine performence for LASAR vs standard
>magnetos will be the same? Any data on this?
>
>
>>
>>In case some of you may be considering this system what follows is a brief
>>of our experience with it.
>>
>>We have the LASAR system installed on our Cessna 172N, the engine is a
>>Lycoming O360 A4M.
>>
>>We installed the system with a cockpit light to indicate failure and a
>>circuit breaker that we can pull to remove power from the system.
>>
>>We are very happy with the performance of the system.
>>
>>We operate at Taupo Airport elevation 1300ft and most flights are to the
>>ranges south-east of Taupo where we fly people to airstrips with
elevations
>>between 2100ft and 3300ft. Normally we do not exceed 4000ft enroute. We
>>cruise using 2500 RPM.
>>
>>We are getting fuel consumption's around 30 to 33 litres per hour. We only
>>have to look at the spark plugs each 100 hrs, even then there is normally
no
>>lead build up and very little erosion requiring only minimal gap
adjustment.
>>
>>For comparison our Grumman Tiger Lyc O360 A4K using similar power settings
>>and flight profiles is using about 40 litres phr and requires plug
cleaning
>>and gap adjustment every 50 hrs.
>>
>>Well that is the good stuff now-
>>
>>There are two bugs in the software that cause the cockpit light to come
on.
>>
>>1) Apparently the dwell voltage of the mags follows a sine wave pattern,
the
>>controller checks this voltage when you do a mag check. If the voltage is
>>checked near the 0 voltage part of the wave the controller reverts to back
>>up mag mode. This requires recycling power to the controller via the
circuit
>>breaker to reset it and get LASAR mode. We get this fault about once every
>>20 mag checks.
>>
>>2) When landing on the bush airstrips in turbulent conditions frequent
>>sometimes abrupt power changes are required. The controller senses these
>>power changes as out of parameter manifold pressures and turns the cockpit
>>light on. The unit stays in LASAR mode and the light goes out after about
20
>>seconds.
>>
>>Both these faults are irritating rather than problems and Unison are
>>apparently working on software changes to correct them.
>>
>>The biggest problem we have had is the reliability of the magneto's.
>>
>>Shortly after the LASAR system we had to change both mags for ones with
>>upgraded switching. We have since had the Right Mag coil fail at 113hrs
>>TTIS.
>>
>>We can not fault the back up from Unison, they have been very prompt in
>>replacing parts, in return we provided them with detailed information on
the
>>conditions when faults have occurred. Due to our remoteness from them (1/2
a
>>planet away) they have provided us with two backup LASAR mags and two
>>standard mags. We sure hate having a working aeroplane grounded.
>>
>>We are waiting to receive the latest upgraded mags which will (fingers
>>crossed) see an end to the mag problems.
>>
>>We intend to fit a LASAR system to our Grumman Tiger, probably when the
new
>>mags are available. We will also fit it to our RV-8 when its built,
although
>>when you are looking that far into the future there may be something
better
>>available.
>>
>>If there is any interest for it I'll post a report on how the new mags go
>>once we have put some time on them.
>>
>>Ordering an empennage kit soon!
>>
>>Arthur Whitehead
>>
>>Christine & Arthur
>>Air Charter Taupo
>>New Zealand
>>
>>act(at)xtra.co.nz
>>www.airchartertaupo.co.nz
>>
>>
>
> Lothar |||-6A; just finisched drilling gear mounts in Lakewood/ Denver,
CO |||
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
>
>Thanks guys for the info of your LASAR experience/data. I bet the list will
>be very interested about your future posts/data.
>
>Here are the two basic questions I have:
>1 What are your payback hours calculations? What I meant is how many hours
>do you need to fly to save on fuel (petrol) cost to pay for the LASAR?
>2 Do you expect that total engine performence for LASAR vs standard
>magnetos will be the same? Any data on this?
I did this calculation for myself about a year back when I was putting my
RV-4 back together. I wanted to find out if the fuel savings would offset
the cost of the LASAR system over standard Slick mags. The short answer is
that, no matter how I calculated it, even assuming that the LASAR mags
would go a full 2000 hours without repair, I would never break even when
compared to standard Slick mags. Note, that this assumes 100LL avgas at US
prices (around $2US/gallon or about $0.53US/L).
I also figure that, in real life, the mechanical magneto part of the LASAR
system is going to have the same life as their standard mags since we are
dealing with essentially the same mechanism. Add to that the finite
possibility of electronics malfunction and you end up with a system that is
more likely to malfunction (lower MTBF) than regular mags. Granted, when
the LASAR system malfunctions the engine keeps running but that is one of
the reasons we have dual mags in the first place, right?
Now, as to performance, at high power (high MAP) the LASAR system will
retard the timing to where it is approximately the same as statically timed
mags. That means that you aren't going to get any more HP down low. As
you go up high and the lower power gives you more detonation margin, the
LASAR system will advance the timing to give you a little more power and a
little lower fuel burn. Discussions with the Unison folks at Oshkosh led
me to believe that my O-320 might see a 0.5 - 0.7 gph reductions in fuel
burn up high. On the other hand, so will the Lightspeed ignition and it is
both simpler and less expensive.
So, when I rebuilt the engine in my RV-4, it got a brand new set of regular
Slick mags. Someday I may retrofit the Lightspeed ignition but until the
LASAR system drops in price significantly, I can't justify it in my RV-4.
Now if you want to talk about a production certified airplane with a big
6-cyl engine, you are talking a horse of a different color.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
If anyone out there has an interest, or has a friend that might have an
interest, in a good deal for a well built RV6A, this is it. I am selling it
for the reasons listed below. Please call at the listed phone # and talk.
Pictures available.
RV6A - MUST SELL RETIRING. FAA certified to fly 2/15/99, TTSN-0, Lycoming
0360, 318 since chrome major overhaul, in prime, ready to paint. Full VFR
panel including new instruments, VAL 760 Com, Collins transponder w/Mode C,
ELT, electric flaps, new heavy duty nose strut installed, left and right entry
steps, new metal Sensenich prop, strobes, landing lights, new Lorance 300
Magellan 5000, GPS's, Control vision 60 amp, EXP bus PC board and indicator
paned, intercom, autopilot, sliding canopy, new interior, speed fairings,
philogiston spar, quality workmanship> I have over $72,000 in it will
negotiate. Phone 941-923-5553. Hangered one hour from Sun-N-Fun, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Engine inhibiting |
>Hi Brian:
>Your case is one that you don't have to many worries for the following
>reasons:
snip:
I just got a used engine from Bobby Osburn in MIneral Wells, Tx. He has
several o-320-H2AD's, from $3,500 up depending on time. Has some regular
0-320's & o-360's & lots of engine accessories. No E-mail but his phone
is 940-682-4220, FAx = 940-682-4264.
I plan on removing the oil filler pipe & plug all holes to rotate the
engine monthly stored upside down. Can I use 10 qts of auto 30 wt oil or
should I use 50 aviation?
bring each cyclinder to BDC & spray with 10 wt mineral oil with my air
blast I used for cleaning in the upper plugs.say each 6 months.
>> Don't turn the crankshaft until you are ready to run it.
>I wouldn't recommend any WD 40 ,it is used more as an anti seize and I
>am not sure what all is in it.
>
>Eustace
=== Why not move the pistons. Don't I want a coat of oil on the walls.
Mine are steel cylinders.???
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JPI's BIG Mistake |
Listers
I'm new to this list, and have found thru the power of the internet what
kind of impact this list has. I sent a message last friday afternoon, saturday
morning I had almost one hundred hits to my site thats powerful stuff. As of
today 3/24/99 I will not cut a panel with a JPI Instrument until this matter
is resolved I support this list and Matronics. I'm small business man who's
supporting another, let's all stick together on this issue. I would like to
say to Matronics Thank You for this great tool and I support you 100% this
sort of thing could happen to any of us.
PS. I will also note this on my web site this weekend.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mountain flying |
<< Maybe I am taking this wrong but I get the feeling that 'Buster' was
originally finding fault with my mountain flying technique, i.e. clearing
the ridge top by 500' AGL while flying at 13,000' MSL. And by making his
comments others might think that what I am doing is unsafe. >>
Brian,
First let me say that I enjoyed your post as much as I enjoy
Busters posts. Living here in Colorado I find myself flying in the mountains
regularly and enjoy it more than I could express in words. I dont think he
ment what you where doing was dangerous. My take was that people not used to
flying at high altitudes should fly the mountains with caution. Most of the
fatalaties we have in this area are usually flat landers who have no idea what
real density altitude is, or have no respect for the winds and rotors in the
mountains. I hope next time you take a trip you decide to fill us in again.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Mountain flying |
>>Maybe I am taking this wrong but I get the feeling that 'Buster' was
originally finding fault with my mountain flying technique,<<<
snipped
Brian,
I didn't get the impression he was doing this at all. I live in the moutains
and the first time in the last 10 years I landed below 5000 ft was just 2
months ago on an xc from Columbus OH. I agree with your approach to mountain
flying and risk, they are along the same lines as mine. I am the first one
to not get anywhere near a ridge if the wind is blowing but, breaking over a
high ridge on a calm day with 5000+ foot of dropoff on the other side is one
of the most spectacular sights of flying.
As for moutain flying and the inexperienced.... GET TRAINING. It can be some
of the most beautiful scenery but it is also very deadly unless you
understand the weather effects and know what your doing. Always have a way
out. I have been in moutain wave with up and downdrafts exceeding 3000
ft/min 20 miles from the mountain range. Luckily I have never experience a
rotor, although I have flown over rotor clouds at a safe altitude.
A complete survival kit including warm clothing is a must in this terrain.
You could be on your own for days even weeks if you go down in a valley.
Happy Flying
Pat Kirkpatrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
Lothar
Talking NZ$- We figure the fuel saving is in the order of $5 per hour, the
unit cost us around $3000. Possibly later this year we will install a LASAR
on our Tiger; we will then be able to compare apples with apples.
I do not think there is any increase in the power developed at full throttle
at low altitudes. At high altitude I guess there will be some improvement.
Unfortunately my backside is not suitably calibrated to measure the
difference!
For this sort of technical info maybe contact Harry Fenton
harry(at)unisonindustries.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Here are the two basic questions I have:
> 1 What are your payback hours calculations? What I meant is how
> many hours
> do you need to fly to save on fuel (petrol) cost to pay for the LASAR?
> 2 Do you expect that total engine performence for LASAR vs standard
> magnetos will be the same? Any data on this?
>
>
If we break even over the life of the engine we are happy, there are other
advantage such as ease of starting and possibly longer life for the spark
plugs.
Arthur Whitehead
Christine & Arthur
Air Charter Taupo
New Zealand
act(at)xtra.co.nz
www.airchartertaupo.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
>Here are the two basic questions I have:
>1 What are your payback hours calculations? What I meant is how many hours
>do you need to fly to save on fuel (petrol) cost to pay for the LASAR?
The $64 question: at $2700 per copy and assuming one gets
a (very optomistic) 10% improvement in fuel consumption at
high altitude cruise, fuel is $2/gallon and you burn 8 gph
at cruise then it takes (2700/1.60) hours of cruising flight
or about 1600 hours to break even . . .put on dual systems,
realize lower improvements and the hours go up markedly. Given
that average GA aircraft fly 50 hours a year, thats about 32
years. If you can cruise an average of 4 hours a week in
your airplane it MIGHT go down to 8 years.
>2 Do you expect that total engine performence for LASAR vs standard
>magnetos will be the same? Any data on this?
Any enhancement of ignition with the aid of battery power
combined with manifold pressure scheduled advance will
make the engine start easier and run cooler on less fuel
at altitude. I checked my log a few years ago and for all the
flying I've done in 20 years, less than 200 hours would have
been at high altitude cruise where I'd expect to see real
fuel savings.
They're neat systems with some advances in technologies
to offer but the payback is VERY elusive . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail: Fusible Links |
>
><< I recommend that fusible links for aircraft be limited to the
> 24AWG and 22 AWG sizes for supplying some of the always-hot
> feeds to thing like the essential bus alternate feed, electronic
> ignitions in any form, electronic controlled fuel injection, and
> ammeter shunts. These feeds are generally limited to 5 amps or
> so max continuous demand.
> >>
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>In conflict with your response to my note on the Europa net, I note that your
>drawing Z-7 shows a fusible link of #16 wire in the upper right corner. I am
>unclear on whether you have changed your philosopy since Z-7 was published or
>this is a misprint.
John, you are of course, correct. The image that came to mind when
I saw the word "alternator" was the bigger brothers to the Rotax and
LOM PM machines . . . Fusible link technology is indeed appropriate
for protection of the alternator feed to the bus. I think it's a
stretch to go after 40-100 amp b-leads on the big guys . . . a cartridge
fuse is much cleaner.
>Also, would you please publish the fuse points for the various sizes of
tefzel
>insulated wire - the only reference I found indicated that #25 bare wire
fuses
>at 30A in free air; I assume that insulated wire fuses at a lower current due
>to heat retention by the insulation but cannot find published figures. While
>knowing that a link 4 sizes smaller will protect the wire, it would also be
>useful at times to know the expected fuse point.
I'll see if I can find some data on this. You're correct that insulation
and environment can have a marked effect on the fusing constant for
any conductor . . . the -4AWG rule is intuitively valid, the weakest
link in the chain can be guaranteed to fail first, irrespective of
the conditions that drive fusing constant.
>While your analysis indicated that I have used more fusible links than
>required, I am comfortable with them since they seem extremely reliable and
>are certain to prevent damage to wire bundles which could possibly be damaged
>otherwise. I thank you heartily for this elegant concept. And I appreciate
>your taking the time to critique my electrical system design - as a first
time
>builder, I need all the help I can get.
Very good. I'm pleased that you took the time to study the data
and arrive at a comfortable conclusion for yourself based on the
physics.
Norm Doty wrote:
are we really sure we want fusable links? i would think that anything that
heats up to the point of burning thru itself isnt a good idea, mabey we can
protect the things surrounding them from the heat today but everything
ages/weakens/rots and we know no one checks everything everytime.
A good question. Keep in mind that fuses burn through every time
they're called upon to act. Fuse manufacturer's design the product
so that the burning happens in a restricted space and doesn't
propogate damage to the rest of the sytem. The fusible link does
the same thing . . .it's a bit more spectacular because there is
some smoke but contining the relatively small conductor inside a piece
of fiberglas sleeving prevents propogation of damage.
Fuselinks have one VERY attractive feature . . . unlike the
breakers and/or fuses they replace, the parts count is VERY low.
The parts are made from ordinary wiring and terminals that may
be expected to perform as well 20 years from now as they do today.
That's difficult to say for fuseholders and circuit breakers.
Fusible links are especially useful in situations where the need
to protect is very unlikely but the need to have reliable connection
is strong . . . like electronic ignition and essential bus
alternate feeds. I've pitched about $100 worth of inline
fuse holders I used to sell because my builders are having trouble
with them after only a few years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
About a month ago I fitted the wings on pinned the alerons in nuetraland
installed the electric flaps. My problem is the right flap edge The part
that fits under the fuselage had to be bent down about 1/4" while the left
flap had to be bent up about 1/8" just less then half an inch between the
two. Drilled the rear spars to the fuselage. Looks terrible kept an eye on
my plumb bob during wing construction, checked and rechecked the fuselage,
angle of incidence was double checked, no twist in the flap. The wings are
off again. Will see if the problem can be solved on final wing installation
at the airport. Any body have this problem if so what happened if flowen
this way??? thanks ahead
RV6A/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Weekend Seminar for DFW is set . . . |
Dates, location and motel data for the first weekend seminar
of 1999 have been posted at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Dates are being finalized for other locations around the
country . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | LASAR payback analysis WAS: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
Just adding to Bob Nuckolls payback analysis...
Where does the $2700 come from? Was it money that could have earned 8% annually
in mutual funds? In which case, it costs you $216 lost interest each year you
own it. If you borrowed money at 16%, it cost twice that. It keeps on costing
you something till you sell it at which time it will probably cost you more than
$2500 as salvage will surely be less than $200. Ask your accountant to do the
numbers for you.
Another concern is engine warranty.
Personally, I love these but the economics might not be there.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mountain flying |
>
>
>>
>>Maybe I am taking this wrong but I get the feeling that 'Buster' was
>>originally finding fault with my mountain flying technique, ...
>
>NO,NO,NO....I do try to word posts so that my wife and dog percieve the
>words as intended....I guess I never will get used to computer speak...
>Brian's excellent (and inspiring) post clearly show, to me anyway, that he
>is no dummy and knows how to fly over the rocks...
Then I owe you an apology. I apologize for misreading your posting and
taking it wrong. I hereby owe you a beverage of your choice.
Your posting was a very interesting read and, yes, there are people out
there who don't think about what they are doing before they do it. How
does that old saying go, "a superior pilot uses his/her superior judgement
to avoid situations that require his/her superior skill."
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Trim Cable Installation |
I''m installing my elevator trim cable and am finding that the geometry is
causing a large preload on the trim tab. I think a preload is going to
guarantee a cracked trim tab someday.
It looks like the little weldment with the nut on it needs to move back about
1/2 inch from the position given in the plans to make this problem go away.
Of course, I've already drilled the weldment in place, so now I gotta figure a
way to fix it.
Anyone else have this problem? Got a solution?
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mountain flying |
How does that old saying go, "a superior pilot uses his/her superior
judgement
>to avoid situations that require his/her superior skill."
>
OR: Don't let the a/c get you someplace where you weren't there at least
five minutes before it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
> About a month ago I fitted the wings on pinned the alerons in nuetraland
> installed the electric flaps.
How did you determine flap neutral position?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A finishing, finishing, finishing.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
> They're neat systems with some advances in technologies
> to offer but the payback is VERY elusive . . .
You mean some guys actually do payback analyses on airplane stuff? I am
pretty sure that no matter how I slice this airplane project, with or
without any stuff like LASAR ignition, I can't get any $$ payback. I am
real analytical in how I make the various decisions in this project - if I
want it and can somehow scrape the money together, I get it. Much easier
than trying to rationalize things :
).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A (with irrational LASAR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
"joseph.wiza" wrote:
> installed the electric flaps. My problem is the right flap edge The part
> that fits under the fuselage had to be bent down about 1/4" while the left
> flap had to be bent up about 1/8" just less then half an inch between the
> two. Drilled the rear spars to the fuselage. Looks terrible kept an eye on
> my plumb bob during wing construction, checked and rechecked the fuselage,
> angle of incidence was double checked, no twist in the flap. The wings are
> off again. Will see if the problem can be solved on final wing installation
> at the airport. Any body have this problem if so what happened if flowen
> this way??? thanks ahead
Joseph,
I am building an RV4 and I spent one Oshkosh checking every RV4 to see
how common the mismatch between the bottom of the retracted flap and the
belly skin. I can assure you that I saw this on nearly every RV4 I
looked at.
Many were mismatched by more than you figures of 1/8 and 1/4 inch. It
was also very common that the amount of mismatch differed on the left
and right sides. I think this problem occurs commonly on the RV6 also,
although I did not focus my attention on the RV6's.
The extended flap skin is used to cover the hole for the flap pushrod,
so simply trimming the flap skin flush with the fuselage side will leave
that hole exposed. The most popular fix for this problem seems to be to
put a Z-bend in the overhanging portion of the flap skin so that the
inboard portion matches up with the belly skin. If you go this route, I
would recommend making the Z bend as a separate part, trimming the
inboard portion of the flap skin as appropriate, and then riveting the Z
bend to the inboard portion of the bottom flap skin. This way, you can
keep fabricating Z-bends until you get a fit that satisfies you. Most
of Z-bends I saw at Oshkosh looked to be formed-in-place, where the
fabricator had only one chance to get it right, and it did tend to show.
I'm actually leaning toward making this part out of fiberglass. I've
been using the West Systems for fairing and cowling work and have found
it very easy to use. I have had no problems at all with the epoxy
bonding to the polyester. After attaching my cowling inlet ramps, I
gave them a 'pull test' with my bare hands, applying a peel force far
greater than I expect these parts to ever see in their service life.
They didn't budge. I'll keep an eye on these (and my cowl scoop) to see
if there is any deterioration of the bond with age.
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
Some time ago there was some discussion about the Val Com (599)radio
versus the ICOM radio(899). I have installed the Val radio in my RV-8,
and with 10 hours am very happy with it. I feel the switch setup for
frequency changes works very well, and have had no problem changing
frequencies even in turbulence. Another thing; today I got to see an
installed and working ICOM in another RV-8, and I noticed that the
frequency readout(numbers) are only about 1/4" high, versus the 1/2"
high of the ValCom. Also the ICOM uses the type of LCD(?) readout that is
difficult to see in direct sun. No such problem with the ValCom, as I got
to try that the other day when we had some of that rarely seen(here in
the Northwest) bright thing in the sky. No I do not work for ValCom, just
a very satisfied user. Just my opinion and my observation.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
In a message dated 3/24/99 6:54:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
RClayp5888(at)aol.com writes:
<< What paint do most of you folks use on the skin over the instrument panel
under the windshield? >>
I used the smooth (loop) side of Velcro fabric. I had a bunch of the black
stuff 48" wide and stuck it on with acrylic pressure sensitive adhesive. You
can stick pencils and such to it and they stay. Where would we be without
bailing wire, duct tape and Velcro?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Gray <c_gray(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Fwd: (no subject)] |
From: DDC812(at)aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 17:14:15 EST
Subject: Fwd: (no subject)
From: Tootsie498(at)aol.com
Subject: (no subject)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:34:47 EST
THE ANT AND THE GRASSHOPPER
CLASSIC VERSION
The ant works hard in the withering heat all summer long, building his house
and laying up supplies for the winter. The grasshopper thinks he's a fool and
laughs and dances and plays the summer away. Come winter, the ant is warm and
well fed. The grasshopper has no food or shelter so he dies out in the
cold.
MODERN VERSION
The ant works hard in the withering heat all summer long, building his house
and laying up supplies for the winter. The grasshopper thinks he's a fool and
laughs and dances and plays the summer away. Come winter, the shivering
grasshopper calls a press conference and demands to know why the ant should be
allowed to be warm and well fed while others are cold and starving.
CBS, NBC and ABC show up to provide pictures of the shivering grasshopper next
to video of the ant in his comfortable home with a table filled with food.
America is stunned by the sharp contrast. How can it be that, in a country of
such wealth, this poor grasshopper is allowed to suffer so?
Then a representative of the NAAGB (National Association of Green Bugs) shows
up on Nightline and charges the ant with "green bias," and makes the case that
the grasshopper is the victim of 30 million years of greenism. Kermit the Frog
appears on Oprah with the grasshopper, and everybody cries when he sings "It's
Not Easy Being Green." Bill and Hillary Clinton make a special guest
appearance on the CBS Evening News to tell a concerned Dan Rather that they
will do everything they can for the grasshopper who has been denied the
prosperity he deserves by those who benefited unfairly during the Reagan
summers, or as Bill refers to it, the "Temperatures of the 80's." Richard
Gephardt exclaims in an interview with Peter Jennings that the ant has gotten
rich off the back of the grasshopper, and calls for an immediate tax hike on
the ant to make him pay his "fair share."
Finally, the EEOC drafts the "Economic Equity and Anti-Greenism Act."
Retroactive to the beginning of the summer. The ant is fined for failing to
hire a proportionate number of green bugs and, having nothing left to pay his
retroactive taxes, his home
is confiscated by the government.
Hillary gets her old law firm to represent the grasshopper in a defamation
suit against the ant, and the case is tried before a panel of federal judges
that Bill appointed from a list of single-parent welfare moms who can only
hear cases on Thursday's between 1:30 and 3pm when there are no talk shows
scheduled.
The ant loses the case.
The story ends as we see the grasshopper finishing up the last bits of the
ant's food while the government house he's in, which just happens to be the
ant's old house, crumbles around him since he doesn't know how to maintain it.
The ant has disappeared in the snow. And on the TV, which the grasshopper
bought by selling most of the ant's food, they are showing Bill Clinton
standing before a wildly applauding group of Democrats announcing that a new
era of "fairness" has dawned in America.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E-mail contact for Vans Aircraft |
Van's does not respond to my faxes. Within the last couple of months I
have:
1) Sent two faxes requesting help regarding incorrectly-supplied brake line.
I had to call to get help.
2) I sent two faxes requesting explanation of a $360 overcharge to my credit
card. I received no answer. I again had to call to get the overcharge
reversed.
3) I sent a two-page fax with CAD drawing requesting help on a subpanel
strengthening problem. I never received the courtesy of a reply.
Dennis Persyk cust no 23308
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: E-mail contact for Vans Aircraft
>
>Hi Arthur (and everyone else)!
>
>Yes you are using the correct address. I don't know the specifics of your
>case, so I'll make a general statement that could apply to you, and applies
>to many others:
>
>Van's Aircraft responds to e-mails sent to them. If you ask a question, in
>almost all cases, you'll get an answer. Theoretically, this is all nice
>and good. However, in practice, way too many of the answers sent out just
>bounce back to Van's. The reason: incorrect e-mail address information.
>The solution: make absolutely sure that your e-mail program is sending out
>your correct e-mail address as the From: and Reply-To: lines. You should
>also make a note of your actual address in the body of the e-mail message.
>
>It's frustrating to send an e-mail to someone (like Van's) and never
>receive a reply. It's also frustrating for Van's to be unable to respond
>to customer and potential customer inquiries...
>
>Hope this helps,
>~Jeremy
>Jeremy W. Benedict * jwb(at)europa.com * (503) 514-3100 vm/pager
>Intel-Hawthorne * RV-x Pilot
>
>Disclaimer: I speak neither for my employer, nor for my client.
>
>>Sent request for this info to info(at)vansaircraft.com with no response.
>>Am I using the wrong address?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Australian RV6 builder |
Stuart,
I hope/plan to be there. What do you have in mind ?
Larry Mac Donald
( fighting my way thru the tail feathers)
lm4(at)juno.com
writes:
>Brisbane, Australia , based RV6a builder wishes to contact RV6 builders
>who will be at Oshkosh 99.
>Regards
>Stuart Summers
>S/N 24788
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Engine inhibiting |
----------
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
> To: Royce Craven
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting
> Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 9:45 PM
>
> Hi Royce:
>
> At this point there is little you can do to change anything. By turning
it
> with the starter until you have oil pressure you are basically preoiling
it
> and this helps the bottom end . However some items such as the cam lobes
> and followers depend on the spray of a running engine for lubrication.
>
> I would suggest you oil the cylinders with a pump oil can .Remove the
> bottom plugs and oil each cyllinder through the bottom plug holes with
the
> piston at the bottom of it's stroke. Then just before you start it with
the
> bottom plugs out turn it over a few times to clear any excess oil.
>
> Follow the recommended run in procedures
>
> Please feel free to contact me of the list if I can be of any help.
>
> Eustace
> ----------
> > From: Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au>
> > To: ebowhay(at)shuswap.net
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting
> > Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 12:46 AM
> >
> > Eustace,
> >
> > after installing the engine (new 0-320 D1A) more than a year ago, I am
> > concerned about its condition.
> > The preservative oil was drained on installation and 4 qts of mineral
oil
> > was added.
> > Every week or so I turned the engine over by hand giving it about 40
> turns
> > with the bottom plugs removed.
> > The top plugs were replaced with dehydrators. These would be
'recharged'
> > back to the deep blue about every 2 to 3 weeks.
> > Over the last few months (now the wiring is done) I have been using the
> > battery to spin it with the plugs removed for a few seconds. I am
getting
> > about 35lb (uncalibrated) on the oil gauge.
> >
> > Now that I'm painting the intake and exhaust pipes are covered using
> plastic
> > bags secured with rubber bands.
> > I am nearly ready to start the thing. Was this enough or should I do
> > something before I turn the key.
> >
> > Thanks for your help
> >
> > Royce Craven
> > RV-6A VH-RRC
> > Melbourne Australia
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >The long term inhibiting question has come up occasionally in the
past.
> > >What is the best way to protect that big investment while getting
ready
> to
> > >bolt it on the front end?
> > >
> > >Over the years this has really never been a problem for me as the
> engines
> > >were usually installed shortly after purchase either new or
overhauled.
> > >However all that changes when we decide to built a homebuilt. Ten
years
> ago
> > >one could wait until you needed one with the result the engine didn't
> sit
> > >idle for long.
> > >
> > >As we all know that is not the case anymore with the scarcity of good
> > >engines so we buy when a opportunity arises and in a lot of cases long
> > >before we actually need it.
> > >
> > >Bart and I got together last week and discussed what would be the best
> way
> > >to take care of them.
> > >
> > >In the case of a new engine one should follow the manufacuture's
> > >recommendations. Bart's engines are run with inhibiting oil before
> delivery
> > >and would normally be ok for up to two years however this would depend
a
> > >lot in how and where it is stored and what the climatic conditions
are.
> > >
> > >This is what we came up with:
> > >
> > >Plug or secure all openings that oil can leak from ie. breather, oil
> filter
> > >adaptor, exhaust ports, oil pressure and oil temp ports, governor pad,
> > >vacum pump pad, spark plug holes and any other openings I have missed.
> You
> > >can still expect some minor leakage because all the seals are cold.
> > >
> > >Add 8 quarts of aviation oil. Place a suitable sized tire on a drip
tray
> > >say 3 ft.x 3ft. and with enough help roll the engine around and lay it
> > >upside down on the tire. For those of you with all the fancy
stuff,crome
> > >and pretty colors maybe put some disposable protection between the
> engine
> > >and tire. Then every few months or the more often the better return
> engine
> > >to the upright position and roll around again and then back upside
down
> on
> > >the tire . Do not turn crankshaft when engine is stored in this
> condition.
> > >
> > >For engines that are used and have not been inhibited do it as soon as
> you
> > >can.
> > >The same for overhauled engines that have not been test run and
> inhibited.
> > >For new and overhauled properly test run and inhibited you will have
to
> be
> > >the judge depending on each situation.
> > >
> > > When the engine is installed pull the lower plugs and sump drain and
> let
> > >all the oil drain out then slowly rotate the prop by hand so that you
> can
> > >stop and back it up if you feel any unusual pressure.
> > >
> > >I know this is a bit of a pain but like a lot of things in life doing
it
> > >right dosen't come easy.
> > >
> > >If you have questions please ask and will try to get answers for you.
> > >
> > >Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finishing bottom forward skin on the
6A
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
> > >
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > >
>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mountain flying |
Maybe I am taking this wrong but I get the feeling that 'Buster' was
originally
finding fault with my mountain flying technique.
Time out.
Buster wasn't talking to you. He was talking to me. You were
doing the flying and a darn good job you were doing. I enjoyed every word
of it. But when you mentioned clearing rocks by 500 ft. while at 13000,
my pulse took a jump.
Buster just reenforced what you said. Here in Rochester N.Y. the ground
level doesn't change very rapidly. I can fly to the adirondacks or the
foot hills of the pennsylvania Mountains without changing much more than
a thousand feet.
The average tops of ground obstructions are 1900 MSL. I can fly, probably
800 miles
at 2100 msl and not have to change altitude. I do my drills from 3500
Msl.
Now I put myself in your place, clearing rock by 500 Ft. and I know my
body would be telling me that my msl was 1200 to 1800 Ft MSL. Of course
the airplane would know something a lot different. Now put me, an RV6A
and a mountain together at 13000 ft msl and you have what "Buster" was
talking about. I hope to get out there to see that ariel view of Grand
canyon some day but the some total of my experience on rotors is having
seen one photograph. These two posts have been eye opening as well as
pulse quickening. Thanks to both of you, and keep them coming.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
>
>
> They're neat systems with some advances in technologies
> to offer but the payback is VERY elusive . . .
>
Let's not even go down the path of cost justification with the hobby we all
enjoy. I have a very difficult time justifying a $50K and growing
investment, fuel, parts, hangar, etc..to my better half. My business
requires me to travel frequently and I can't cost justify it. There are
probably a few people on the list who can make the dollars work, but
probably not most of us. We all share the passion for aviation and some, if
not most, share the pain of its cost.
I do agree though, that if you're looking to trim aviation dollars from your
budget, the gains from the LASAR system probably don't cover the costs.
But neither do a lot of things. Why buy a digital King KT-76C transponder
at $2300 over a KT-76A at $995? Does the advances of the C model pay for
itself over 2 years, 10 years, 50 years? Probably not. I bought one
anyway.
I don't want to start a long thread here. What we spend and how we justify
it are all determined by the individual. If it's right for you, do it. If
you determine that the extra cost isn't outweighed by the benefits derived,
then don't do it. But if we're going to put pen to paper and begin cost
justifying our passion, boy do we have a lot of work ahead.
Respectfully,
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Trying to get ready to Paint"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doyon, Richard" <Richard.Doyon(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance fuel sender |
Hi!
I looked up the archive and got 69 hits on the subject. From what I can
understand, no matter which system you use (resistive or capacitance), it all
depends on how well you calibrate it originally.
I'm about to order the tail kit (-6A), and since there's a 9 weeks waiting
period on the wings, I'll order them at the same time. But, I bugged on the
fuel sending unit. On larger airplane (like the one here...), we all use capacitance
system. So, I'd like to go with the same thing in my RV. Now, is anyone
of you ever used the Westach fuel capacitance system? It sure is much cheaper
than the 350$ for the EI unit that Van's and other sell, even including the
dual gauge and senders. I think that a good dial gauge like coupled on properly
calibrated senders will do the job just fine. Anyhow, I'll rely on a fuel meter
of somekind to get fuel flow for proper in flight calculation of the endurance.
Any inputs will be appreciated.
As well, I was looking at the Spruce catalogue, and even though it will
be only much further in the project, has anyone ever used the Westach quad EGT
and quad CHT? The units go for 150$, and probes are about 25$/ea. They're 3
1/8" dial like, with 4 indicators evenly spaced around it. It sure looks neat
and compact, and enables you to monitor all 4 cylinders on both parameters at
all time. Any comments?
Thanks,
(obviously, my comments do not represent my employer in any way)
Rich & Nancy
-6A, about to order tail
98208
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison Industries LASAR ignition |
>I don't want to start a long thread here. What we spend and how we justify
>it are all determined by the individual. If it's right for you, do it. If
>you determine that the extra cost isn't outweighed by the benefits derived,
>then don't do it. But if we're going to put pen to paper and begin cost
>justifying our passion, boy do we have a lot of work ahead.
I don't think it's that complex . . . given that equal performance
can be had from Lightspeed and/or ElectroAire, and assuming that
$2700 is in the kitty to begin with, then buying a $700 system
leaves me $2000 for another radio, or perhaps goes toward all
electric gyros and dual alternators, etc, etc. I'd rather believe
most of us are interested in bang for the buck no matter how
many bucks are involved . . . a little research and analysis
can make a finite budget go further . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Airplane cost analysis WAS: Unison... |
Hi Alex and all,
Airplanes are cheap! Cheaper than being in a psychiatric ward or alcohol rehab
or even owning a too large house and a Mercedes. Sometimes I compare airplane
costs to sports car racing which, even tho I was never hurt, was very expensive.
So, I don't compare those costs either.
But, I still compare the cost of one aero goodie with another!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting |
Hi Don:
Guess it is time to add a bit more to my post of 3/21/99 which can be found
in the achives under "engines inhibiting".
Long term inhibiting takes a bit if work but is straight forward before the
engine is installed. What you are doing to your engine is basically the
same as our suggestions with the addition of oiling the cylinders which was
an oversight on my part and should have been included in the post.
In my post to Brian I did not go into a lot of detail because the engine
has been recently run and is only going to be stored for a short time under
ideal conditions.
In case we have a competely different set of circumstances were the
engine has been installed for a long period during the building process.
Even though the engine was effectevly preoiled by turning it on the starter
this does not get oil to certain parts of the engine. In particular the cam
lobes and followers, these as well as wrist pins and cylinder walls depend
on oil mist produced by a running engine. Even a engine running at slow
idle may not produce sufficient spray, that is one reason why it is
recommended to run the engine at 1000-1100 RPM after start up.
This is why it is not recommended to turn the crankshaft until one is ready
to run it. In a situation were the engine is sitting installed for a long
period oil can be sprayed or pumped into the cylinders or even filled up
with the exhaust ports covered. Also during this time the engine can be
oiled through the fitting on the back of the engine just above the left
mag. without turning the crank.
It has been suggested that preoiling can be done through the steel fitting
that your oil pressure line connects to but in a lot of installations this
fitting can not be removed after the engine is installed and because it has
a restriction in it makes it almost impossable to get any voume of oil
through it.
On the subject of using automotive oil for inhibiting purposes I am sure it
will do the job but hesitate to recommend it just on the off chance that
the engine would get run with it . Running automotive oil in a air cooled
aircraft engine can cause severe damage. I have seen this happen and the
cylinders only went 20 hours before requiring an overhaul.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. One more skin to go on the 6A before
fitting gear legs.
----------
> From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine inhibiting
> Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 12:02 PM
>
>
>
> >Hi Brian:
> >Your case is one that you don't have to many worries for the following
> >reasons:
>
> snip:
>
> I just got a used engine from Bobby Osburn in MIneral Wells, Tx. He has
> several o-320-H2AD's, from $3,500 up depending on time. Has some regular
> 0-320's & o-360's & lots of engine accessories. No E-mail but his phone
> is 940-682-4220, FAx = 940-682-4264.
>
> I plan on removing the oil filler pipe & plug all holes to rotate the
> engine monthly stored upside down. Can I use 10 qts of auto 30 wt oil or
> should I use 50 aviation?
>
> bring each cyclinder to BDC & spray with 10 wt mineral oil with my air
> blast I used for cleaning in the upper plugs.say each 6 months.
>
> >> Don't turn the crankshaft until you are ready to run it.
> >I wouldn't recommend any WD 40 ,it is used more as an anti seize and I
> >am not sure what all is in it.
> >
> >Eustace
>
> === Why not move the pistons. Don't I want a coat of oil on the walls.
> Mine are steel cylinders.???
>
>
> Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI's BIG Mistake |
Steve,
Well Done!!
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: PANELCUT(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: JPI's BIG Mistake
>Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 15:14:35 EST
>
>
>Listers
>
> I'm new to this list, and have found thru the power of the internet
what
>kind of impact this list has. I sent a message last friday afternoon,
saturday
>morning I had almost one hundred hits to my site thats powerful stuff.
As of
>today 3/24/99 I will not cut a panel with a JPI Instrument until this
matter
>is resolved I support this list and Matronics. I'm small business man
who's
>supporting another, let's all stick together on this issue. I would
like to
>say to Matronics Thank You for this great tool and I support you 100%
this
>sort of thing could happen to any of us.
>
>PS. I will also note this on my web site this weekend.
>
>Steve Davis
>The Panel Pilot
>panelcut(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Installation |
<< I''m installing my elevator trim cable and am finding that the geometry is
causing a large preload on the trim tab. I think a preload is going to
guarantee a cracked trim tab someday.
It looks like the little weldment with the nut on it needs to move back about
March 18, 1999 - March 25, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gp