RV-Archive.digest.vol-gq
March 25, 1999 - April 01, 1999
1/2 inch from the position given in the plans to make this problem go away.
Of course, I've already drilled the weldment in place, so now I gotta figure
a
way to fix it.
Anyone else have this problem? Got a solution?
>>
Hey Kevin:
Does the cable bind at BOTH ends of its travel? If not, you can heat and bend
the angle at which the nut is welded to the tab to move some of the free-play
from one side to the other. It sounds like a case of using the correct sized
hammer...
The current method in favor with those forward-thinking boys at Bakersfield is
to have the cable run parallel to the elev root rib, instead of thru the spar
and the h stab. A small fitting holds the cable to the flange of the root rib,
and it is also tied to the elev horn (or in some cases , run thru the horn!)
You must modify the act. arm on the tab to do this, but it is a very EZ mod,
and makes installing and adjusting that cable a much simpler task.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Some time ago there was some discussion about the Val Com (599)radio
>versus the ICOM radio(899). I have installed the Val radio in my RV-8,
>and with 10 hours am very happy with it. I feel the switch setup for
>frequency changes works very well, and have had no problem changing
>frequencies even in turbulence. Another thing; today I got to see an
>installed and working ICOM in another RV-8, and I noticed that the
>frequency readout(numbers) are only about 1/4" high, versus the 1/2"
>high of the ValCom. Also the ICOM uses the type of LCD(?) readout that
is
>difficult to see in direct sun. No such problem with the ValCom, as I
got
>to try that the other day when we had some of that rarely seen(here in
>the Northwest) bright thing in the sky. No I do not work for ValCom,
just
>a very satisfied user. Just my opinion and my observation.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
I'll second Von's views on the VAL COM here. I haven't actually used
mine yet since the plane isn't ready to defy gravity at this time. (But
that time grows nearer by the minute!) I have installed it, and I like
it's rugged design. The large LEDS do show up nicely and VAL's customer
support is excellent. I was missing a few molex pins for the wiring
harness in the hardware kit. I called them up, and they sent plenty of
them priority mail. For you -8 folks, bear in mind this radio is almost
12" deep..but it WILL fit.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
N-number applied for, engine on the way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Cable Installation |
I can't picture this. Have mercy, I am visualizationally challenged. Can
you direct me to a photo on the web? Or perhaps a re-explanation using
different words?
Steve Soule
Gave up (temporarily) trying to fish that cable through the HS and other
hollow places and did something else instead.
-----Original Message-----
The current method in favor with those forward-thinking boys
at Bakersfield is
to have the cable run parallel to the elev root rib, instead
of thru the spar
and the h stab. A small fitting holds the cable to the
flange of the root rib,
and it is also tied to the elev horn (or in some cases , run
thru the horn!)
You must modify the act. arm on the tab to do this, but it
is a very EZ mod,
and makes installing and adjusting that cable a much simpler
task.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E-mail contact for Vans Aircraft |
I have faxed and e-mailed Vans several times over the last couple of months
and received an answer usually the same day??
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I have a VAL and have a couple complaints,
#1 It has no live memory. You can buy an optional memory feature, but I
read about it and was not impressed.
#2 you can not preselect on freq with out switching away from the current
one. I wish you could flip freqs and it would flash or something until you
hit an enter or activate command.
#3 if you are on approach at 135.xx and want to go to tower at 118.xx you
can not go around the top. You have to scroll back all the way to 118.
My Val talks out really well, I have some recieve troubles but I finally
figured out that my tray is set too deep in the panel and the connector is
not totally seated. Another project......
In my last airplane I had a KY97. Nothing wrong with that radio either! It
is in the same price range and has features like the ICOM.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Payback (was: Unison Industries LASAR ignition) |
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> They're neat systems with some advances in technologies
>> to offer but the payback is VERY elusive . . .
>
>Let's not even go down the path of cost justification with the hobby we all
>enjoy.
I was not trying to justify the cost of the aircraft or the hobby. The
thought of that strikes me as good fodder for a comedian.
But I do look at the costs of components. If I spend money I want it to DO
something. That something should make the aircraft fly faster, climb
better, help me navigate, reduce my workload, whatever. I am a gadget nut
but I like my gadgets to do something.
The LASAR ignition doesn't do anything for me in the performance catagory
where I do most of my flying down low. It does buy me something when I am
doing long cross country flying up high (lower fuel burn, marginal
performance improvement). It decreases system reliability because now I
don't just have the reliability of the mags to deal with, I also have the
reliability of the electronics box.
So it is a trade off. Since it doesn't add anything else to the airplane,
is it worth it for the gadget factor? If I knew that, over the life of the
engine and its ignition it wouldn't cost me any more than the stock mags, I
would probably still do it so I can point to it and have another
conversation factor. But if it can't even break even ...
BTW, I think it would break even if I lived in a coutry where fuel was
costing a lot more so it could be justified that way. OTOH, the Lightspeed
ignition system gives you the advantages of the LASAR system at a
significantly lower price AND it is a completely separate system from the
mags giving better redundancy IMHO.
Certified airplane: buy LASAR
Experimental airplane: buy Lightspeed
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
Eustace,
I have been considering installing a Pre-Oiler and am now wondering if this
could be used as a 'longer term storage" aid for installed engines. I have
a Pegasus catalog ( http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ ) which shows a
Heavy-Duty Electric Solenoid Activated Accusump in one, two and three quart
capacity for $230, $275 and $275. I see that they work by storing pressure
during engine operation. This might make it unsuitable for preserving an
installed engine unless it could be charged with an air compressor. Do you
or anyone else know about this system?
Ross Mickey
6A - Finishing kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
>It has been suggested that preoiling can be done through the steel fitting
>that your oil pressure line connects to but in a lot of installations this
>fitting can not be removed after the engine is installed and because it has
>a restriction in it makes it almost impossable to get any voume of oil
>through it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel sender |
"Doyon, Richard" wrote:
> I looked up the archive and got 69 hits on the subject.
There's an article by Jim Weir on DIY electronic capacitance fuel
senders at <http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/magazine/kp-89sep.zip>. Combine
that with the DIY sender described by Dick Martin
in a post to the RV-list, and I think you'd have a very cheap and very
effective system.
See my page <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm> for information
that I found out about capacitance senders.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
This is my work account. Weekend email should be
sent to me at frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz.
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
joseph.wiza wrote:
" My problem is the right flap edge, the part that fits under the
fuselage had to be bent down about 1/4" while the left flap had to be
bent up about 1/8" just less then half an inch between the two."
I am building a RV-6A (fuselage kit delivered in 3/97). While in the
process of skinning the fuselage this month, I decided to check the fit
of the wings before installing the bottom skins F676 and F677.
I set the incidence angle as shown in SK-59, 3.03" at the aft spar. The
bottom skin on both wings at the aft spar was .25 above the F676-F677
skins. I rechecked and all the dimensions were "per plan".
I keep hearing the fiberglass gods saying "I told you not to fool with
metal!". I will just add a joggeled piece to each flap.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, skinning the fuselage, still,
still,..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Relative to aileron which was pinned neutral
----------
> From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
> Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 10:29 PM
>
>
> > About a month ago I fitted the wings on pinned the alerons in
nuetraland
> > installed the electric flaps.
>
> How did you determine flap neutral position?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A finishing, finishing, finishing.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
RV6A O360 180. Has anyone tied a spare alternator belt to the baffling and
have it servive for any period of time. (beats taking off a CS prop to put
a new one on) thanks in advance.
RV6A/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
>
>
> 3)Have all control surfaces and empenage in Variprime, nothing on fuselage
> and wings,Dupont says to seal coat Variprimewith something like Prime-n-Seal
> before topcoating with Chromabase/Chromaclear or Centari--is this absolutely
> necessary and what happens if I don't Prime-n-Seal(due to not wanting any
> extra weight)? Or is Dupont just trying to sell me more paint?
>
John,
I just painted my interior with Centari enamel. I had previously primed all
parts when building with Variprime. Before shooting the Centari top coat, I
wiped down the inside with Naphtha and sanded with green Scotch Brite. After
sanding I then wiped down with enamel reducer and shot a thin coat of Dupont
Velva-Seal over the variprime followed almost immediately (so minutes) with the
top coat of Centari enamel with hardener. So far it seems to be a hard durable
surface.
Old primer, variprime included, will not form the proper chemical bond with the
paint. The primer must be roughed up, cleaned and reprimed or removed totally
and reprimed before final top coat if you want the paint to stick at 200 mph.
The Velva-Seal I used comes premixed ready to shoot and is a neutral gray color
that will not change the color of the top coat.
Gary Zilik
6A s/n 22993 - fitting rigid fluid lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Robinson does this on their helicopters as you would have to remove the
squirrel cage to replace an alternator belt. Similar to removing a
propeller.
----- Original Message -----
From: joseph.wiza <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 1999 2:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alt Belt
>
> RV6A O360 180. Has anyone tied a spare alternator belt to the baffling and
> have it servive for any period of time. (beats taking off a CS prop to put
> a new one on) thanks in advance.
>
> RV6A/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
I have used Accusumps on several race car engines. They tend to store their
charge indefinitely as long as the valve (either manual or solenoid) does
not leak. However, you can also charge them manually by filling them with
oil prior precharging with air. Before doing this, the piston which
separates the oil from the air should be pushed back with a wooden dowel. Do
not overfill the oil. You then install the oil valve and precharge the air
side of the piston through the tire valve stem. I think that the air
pressure should equal your highest normal oil pressure at normal operating
temperature (if my memory is intact - if not, this is specified in the
instructions). Any excess air on the oil side should then be "burped" and
then the air charge checked once more.
Not only is an Accusump good for pre-oiling before starting, but it also
provides oil pressure for short durations when the oil pickup becomes
uncovered such as during high cornering or braking in a race car or during
brief periods of negative G's in an airplane.
Chris Heitman
cjh(at)execpc.com
-----Original Message-----
>I have been considering installing a Pre-Oiler and am now wondering if this
>could be used as a 'longer term storage" aid for installed engines. I have
>a Pegasus catalog ( http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ ) which shows a
>Heavy-Duty Electric Solenoid Activated Accusump in one, two and three quart
>capacity for $230, $275 and $275. I see that they work by storing pressure
>during engine operation. This might make it unsuitable for preserving an
>installed engine unless it could be charged with an air compressor. Do you
>or anyone else know about this system?
>
>Ross Mickey
>6A - Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Crabtree" <odcbfl(at)LIGHTSPEED.NET> |
| Subject: | O-360 AIA For sale |
I have a O-360 AIA for sale, Approx. 1900 hrs SMOH It was taken off of a
Beech Twin in November that was flown pretty much every day. Starter, mags,
carb, ect is all there. Compression is in the 70s
First $ 6,000.00 Cash Takes it home.
Please do not reply to the list.
Ken Crabtree
Bakersfield, Ca
ODCBFL(at)LIGHTSPEED.NET
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Installation |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)Juno.com> |
Kyle,
Just bend that little weldment until the tension is gone when the trim
tab is in neutral.
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | drill press/bandsaw question |
i got a few bucks to blow on tools and need advise on drill press and
bandsaw. looking at 8 inch-1/3 hp. 5 speed craftsman drill press with
fence about $120 and a variable speed craftsman band around $200. any
suggestions?????????????????? thanx bob doin tail in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Installation |
> << I''m installing my elevator trim cable and am finding that the geometry is
> causing a large preload on the trim tab. I think a preload is going to
> guarantee a cracked trim tab someday.
>
> It looks like the little weldment with the nut on it needs to move back about
> 1/2 inch from the position given in the plans to make this problem go away.
> Of course, I've already drilled the weldment in place, so now I gotta figure
> a way to fix it.
>
> Anyone else have this problem? Got a solution?
> >>
> Hey Kevin:
>
> Does the cable bind at BOTH ends of its travel? If not, you can heat and bend
> the angle at which the nut is welded to the tab to move some of the free-play
> from one side to the other. It sounds like a case of using the correct sized
> hammer...
>
> The current method in favor with those forward-thinking boys at Bakersfield is
> to have the cable run parallel to the elev root rib, instead of thru the spar
> and the h stab. A small fitting holds the cable to the flange of the root rib,
> and it is also tied to the elev horn (or in some cases , run thru the horn!)
> You must modify the act. arm on the tab to do this, but it is a very EZ mod,
> and makes installing and adjusting that cable a much simpler task.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Mark Does any one have a picture of this modification? I kind of get your drift
but a picture is worth a thousand words.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
This is commonly done so one can quickly replace a broken belt away from
home to return. You then can replace it with a new belt at a more
convenient time. The spare belt will deteriorate from solvent cleanings and
heat, but probably not any more than the belt in use. However if you
replace promptly after main belt failure, it is cheap and convenient.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: joseph.wiza <planejoe(at)flnet.com>
Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 5:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alt Belt
>
>RV6A O360 180. Has anyone tied a spare alternator belt to the baffling and
>have it servive for any period of time. (beats taking off a CS prop to put
>a new one on) thanks in advance.
>
>RV6A/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim-RV-8 |
>I have a slight left banking tendency on my RV-8 that I need to take
>care
>of. As I understand it, there are basically three methods of fixing
>this
>problem; 1. Install a small wedge shaped tab to the bottom of the
>right
>aileron. 2. Use the 'bang the trailing edge of the aileron
>technique'.
>3. Adjust the left flap slightly downward. As of now, I think I
>prefer
>the flap adjustment method. Has anyone had good success with this?
>What
>has worked for you? Thanks.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
Von,
I don't know if you ever got any response to this one so here is some
input.
Most builders tend to always come up just slightly short of bending the
trailing edge closed enough, so squeezing the trailing edge closed a
little more on the "light" wing is usually better than hammering on the
trailing edge of the heavy one.
This of course should not be done until you have verified that the flaps
are adjusted exactly where they ,should be when fully retracted.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
>
>Here in Arizona, I plan to use "Dash Mat" material.
>Basically, real short pile carpet.
>
>Larry Olson
>Cave Creek, AZ
>RV6-Fuse N606RV
>
>
Larry,
Take a look at the velour type of material that Dash Mat has. It is very
nice for this. I used a color other than black to do the entire interior
side panels of my airplane. It is very light but has a 1/8 " foam
insulation on the back which insulates you from the (sometimes) cold skin
surface very well and seems to have a little bit of sound deadening
ability.
Because it is meant for dash mats it is also very sun/fade resistant.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes to right side |
On Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:15:13 +-1000 Trevor Mills
writes:
>
>Well today I have crawled in and out of our aeroplane so many times I
>lost count. I have just fitted the brakes to the right hand side, with
>no luck so far.
>As I don't have the drawings for this aeroplane and I have only
>reached the wing stage on my 8, I tried to fit the brakes using common
>sense ( what a mistake )
>What I have done is fitted the pedals and plumbed the new pedals with
>tee's at the firewall, so now what happens is when I pump the brakes
>on one side, the brake fluid runs through the other side and back to
>the bottle at the firewall, if I get someone to hold there feet on the
>brakes next to me all is fine. Have I plumbed it all wrong or do I
>just need one way valves at each master cylinder ?
>
>I would be very pleased if you could cc to my home address below as I
>really would like to sort this out soon.
>
>Thank You
>Trevor Mills 80605
>( my back is killing me)
>
>
I didn't see whether you got a reply to your question, but the answer is
a definite "no you didn't do it correctly"
In fact it sounds as thought you caused yourself more work than you would
have had if done correctly.
With right side brakes the out put of the right master cylinders (bottom
ports) get plumbed to the input ports of the left seat master cylinders
(top ports). the reservoir then gets plumbed to the 2 top ports of the
right hand master cylinders.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Bob,
Be careful that your drill press turns slow enough for use of your flycutter.
I believe
that 250rpm is what you should shoot for. The smaller(less expensive) ones
only will slow down to about 500rpm which can be very exciting. In terms of a
band saw I know that Sears is changing model lines and replacing the 10inch
vari. with a 11 inch model. Therefore, if you watch, the 10 inch can be
purchased at a good price.
And if you join the Craftsman club( it's free)..you can get a bigger discount.
Good LucK
Mark (6a tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 A: wheel size? |
>
>I like to use the RV wheel pants on another plane. Can anyone tell me
>what
>size wheels (front and rear) the RV "A"'s use?
>
>Thank you,
>Ernesto Sanchez
>es12043(at)utech.net
>
>
The mains wheels use a standard 5" wheel with 5.00 X 5 aircraft tires.
The nose wheel is a standard 5" aircraft nose wheel with a lamb tire.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
Chris, Can you share how you installed the Accusump system in your RV? I am
ordering an Accusump for my RV-4 though I must admit that I am uncertain as
to the best hookup.
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers
>
>I have used Accusumps on several race car engines. They tend to store
their
>charge indefinitely as long as the valve (either manual or solenoid) does
>not leak. However, you can also charge them manually by filling them with
>oil prior precharging with air. Before doing this, the piston which
>separates the oil from the air should be pushed back with a wooden dowel.
Do
>not overfill the oil. You then install the oil valve and precharge the air
>side of the piston through the tire valve stem. I think that the air
>pressure should equal your highest normal oil pressure at normal operating
>temperature (if my memory is intact - if not, this is specified in the
>instructions). Any excess air on the oil side should then be "burped" and
>then the air charge checked once more.
>
>Not only is an Accusump good for pre-oiling before starting, but it also
>provides oil pressure for short durations when the oil pickup becomes
>uncovered such as during high cornering or braking in a race car or during
>brief periods of negative G's in an airplane.
>
>Chris Heitman
>cjh(at)execpc.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>I have been considering installing a Pre-Oiler and am now wondering if
this
>>could be used as a 'longer term storage" aid for installed engines. I
have
>>a Pegasus catalog ( http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ ) which shows a
>>Heavy-Duty Electric Solenoid Activated Accusump in one, two and three
quart
>>capacity for $230, $275 and $275. I see that they work by storing
pressure
>>during engine operation. This might make it unsuitable for preserving an
>>installed engine unless it could be charged with an air compressor. Do
you
>>or anyone else know about this system?
>>
>>Ross Mickey
>>6A - Finishing kit
>
>
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
FN:Steven B Janicki
ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
TITLE:Sr. Director
TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:http://www.oracle.com
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19990326T024852Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: A Word on Milspecs |
-----Original Message-----
From: Laura Greig <lgreig(at)home.com>
Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 1:29 PM
Subject: A Word on Milspecs
>Here's a good one!
>
>~ L.
(InterMail v4.00.03 201-229-104) with ESMTP
for ;
From: "D.A. Chipman" <ortona(at)portal.ca>
"Mike Chessnoe" ,
"John Gorkowski" ,
"John Guthrie" ,
"Don Ethell" ,
"Steve Richards" ,
"Larry Tolton" , "Rob Chipman" ,
"Neil Corbett" ,
"Mike Peters" , "Dan McFaull" ,
"Tim McNeil" , "Laura Greig" ,
"Adam Dymitrtuk"
Subject: A Word on Milspecs
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:00:30 -0800
From: Conrad Metcalfe
The US standard railroad gauge (the distance between the rails) is 4
feet, 8.5 inches. That's an exceedingly odd number.
Why was that gauge used?
Because that's the way they built them in England, and the US railroads
were built by English expatriates.
Why did the English people build them like that?
Because the first rail lines were built by the same people who built the
pre-railroad tramways, and that's the gauge they used.
Why did "they" use that gauge?
Because the people who built the tramways used the same jigs and tools
that they used for building wagons, which used that wheel spacing.
Okay! Why did the wagons use that odd wheel spacing?
Well, if they tried to use any other spacing, the wagons would break
wheels and axles on some of the old long distance roads, because that's
the spacing of the old wheel ruts.
So who built the old rutted roads that way?
The first long distance roads in Europe were built by Imperial Rome for the
benefit of their legions. The roads have been used ever since.
And the ruts?
The initial ruts, which everyone else had to match for fear of destroying
their wagons, were first made by Roman war chariots. Since the chariots were
made for or by Imperial Rome, they were all alike in the matter of wheel
spacing.
Thus, we have the answer to the original questions. The United States
standard railroad gauge of 4 feet, 8.5 inches derives from the original
specification (Military Spec) for an Imperial Roman war chariot.
So, the next time you are handed a specification and wonder what horse's ass
came up with it, you may be exactly right. Because the Imperial Roman
chariots were made to be just wide enough to accommodate the back ends of
two war horses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
Very strongly suggest you do it. My belt rubbed the cowl on the first flight
slightly, and I am looking at taking the prop off after the test period.
Don't want to start the great adventure with a damaged belt and I did not put
a second one on..
Be sure you have at least 3/8" clearance between the cowl and alternator
pulley. I added a bump, a pain since my ship was completely painted before it
left the shop.
Second belt probably will be in bad shape from heat and age before you need to
use it, but stuck in Podunk Airport, it sure beats removing the prop.
Bruce Patton
RV-6A
8.6 hours, still with noisy brakes (which we hope are solved this weekend.
Vans has been great)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
-----Original Message-----
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel tank leak
What is really needed is fuel proof nut plates that have built
>in "O"
>rings to seal when the screw is tightened. They are expensive I am sure,
>but I
>am sure they would stop the leaks.
Pegasus,Auto Racing Supplies. 1-800- 688- 6946
Alum. washers with molded Buna-N inner seals...#8...# 3245-#8....$0.79
Would probably work under Button Head Socket Cap Screws.
They also have same for # 10 screws.
Derek Reed
Grants Pass OR. 6A waiting to P/U finish kit April.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: paint or powder coating for RV-8 landing gear |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I searched the archives on this, but didn't find anything useful.
>
> I am wondering about what to put on my RV-8 landing gear legs for
> corrosion protection. Will they flex enough to cause problems with
> any types of paint or powder coating?
>
> I assume that I need something pretty tough, or it will wear off the
> LG leg at the wear plates. Or, will anything I put on wear there,
> and I just need to put some grease in that area to protect from rust?
>
> Does anyone have some thoughts on this?
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
Hi Kevin
I just had the steel parts for the fusalage, (gear mounts, rudder pedal
assembly, engine mount etc, etc) powder coated. Not sure if I would
spend the money to do it again.
The powder coat surface is harder and thicker than paint but does not
adhere to the metal any better than a good paint. Also there are
different qualities of powder, the cheap stuff comes from China.
As with other finishes the preparation and workmanship probably make the
difference, unfortunately I think an apprentice did my job.
I epoxy primed my gear legs.
George McNutt, Langley, B.C.
6-A, starting to skin fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PresleyTL(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/25/99 5:23:43 PM Central Standard Time,
planejoe(at)flnet.com writes:
<< . Has anyone tied a spare alternator belt to the baffling and
have it servive for any period of time. >>
That is an old crop-duster trick to save time during the busy season, I was
told. I fly a friends Glasair and it has two belts tied to the engine hoist
point on top of the engine. I know they were there for the last 300 or so
hours with no problem.
Tim Presley
N64TX RV-4, sold, RV-8 QB underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Higgins <tmhiggins(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CSP climb rate (was Newbie RV-6 questions) |
Kevin,
Actually, I was asking about the extra climb rate of the constant speed
prop over the fixed pitch, assuming an O-360 in both cases. However,
your method can apply to this, as well.
Searching the archives, I see that the Sensenich prop turns about 2350
rpm at full throttle while climbing. The CSP would allow 2700 rpm. 350
over 2700 times 180 is about 23 extra hp available. This would imply
another 350 fpm climb, based on your calculation.
Also, I just got my RV-6/6A preview plans, and it claims about 10-15%
increase in climb rate for a CSP. This would be about 180-250 fpm
more. So I guess the answer is somewhere around 200-300 fpm greater
climb rate.
Tom
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> > 3. I read plenty in the archives on O-360's and constant speed props.
> > But I couldn't really find too many quantitative answers. What is the
> > typical increase in initial climb rate over Van's specs for the 180 hp
> > RV-6?
> Tom,
>
> Kyle answered your other questions, so I'll step in on the rate of climb.
>
> If everything else is the same, it is easy to estimate the change in
> rate of climb with change in power. At the same weight, and speed,
> the drag is the same, so any extra power increases the climb rate.
>
> Lets assume a propeller efficiency of 75%, so we only get to use 15
> of the extra 20 hp (assuming that the 160 hp with constant speed is
> the baseline).
>
> Power = rate of doing work. 1 Horsepower = 33,000 ft-lb/min.
>
> We are lifting a 1650 lb aircraft.
>
> Extra rate of climb = 20 X 0.75 X 33,000/1650 = 300 ft/min.
>
> Actual results will vary due to prop efficiency being a bit different
> from the assumed value, variations in power output of engines and
> variations between aircraft that affect drag.
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
I have the Craftsman variable speed bandsaw with a non-ferrous metal cutting
blade and it works well on the aluminum speed setting. Wear eye protection
of course, as it occasionally flings a chip skyward. The Sears drill press
looks OK but also check Harbor Freight (see archives) as their $59 (on sale
sometimes) inch drill press has served me well on the empennage.
Good luck!
Phil Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
The nose wheel is a standard 5" aircraft nose wheel with a lamb tire.
What makes the nose wheel a lamb tire? What is a lamb tire?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: paint or powder coating for RV-8 landing gear |
<< The powder coat surface is harder and thicker than paint but does not
adhere to the metal any better than a good paint. >>
George,
You must have gotten a shoddy job. Usually this stuff is tuff
as nails and will take alot more of a beating then any paint Ive seen. I had
all of my steel parts powder coated with the exception of the flap actuator
bar ( I missed it some how while gathering everything to take to the powder
coaters). Any way I epoxy painted the actuator bar. After almost 5 years of
service the only steel part that shows any wear is the flap bar. It has chips
knocked out of it everywhere. My roll bar however is still in new condition
and anyone who flys a 4 knows that takes a beating over time. That says alot
for the powder coating in my book.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)Juno.com> |
>
>The nose wheel is a standard 5" aircraft nose wheel with a lamb tire.
>
>What makes the nose wheel a lamb tire? What is a lamb tire?
>
>Inquiring minds want to know.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>
The lamb tire is actually a Lamb tire, just a brand of tire. The tire is
named for a friend of mine, Mike Lamb, founder/former owner of the Lamb
brand of tires. His company made ten of thousands of tires (Van's bought
a bunch), and he subsequently sold the company to Japanese investors.
Since last November, Mike has been tearing up the skies over Southern
California in his recently completed Harmon Rocket II
Paul Rosales
RV-6A N628PV
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Check out http://www.grizzleyindustrial.com/main.html
I made the error of purchasing a bandsaw from Harbor Freight. I also
purchased a drill press. The quality is not great but it works. The band saw
has a poor blade center/retainer mechanism.
-----Original Message-----
From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: drill press/bandsaw question
>
>I have the Craftsman variable speed bandsaw with a non-ferrous metal
cutting
>blade and it works well on the aluminum speed setting. Wear eye protection
>of course, as it occasionally flings a chip skyward. The Sears drill press
>looks OK but also check Harbor Freight (see archives) as their $59 (on sale
>sometimes) inch drill press has served me well on the empennage.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Phil Smith
>
>
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
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ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
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TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:http://www.oracle.com
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19990326T081906Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
Location/phone number/web site????? for Dash Mat
Ed Anderson
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Here in Arizona, I plan to use "Dash Mat" material.
> >Basically, real short pile carpet.
> >
> >Larry Olson
> >Cave Creek, AZ
> >RV6-Fuse N606RV
> >
> >
> Larry,
> Take a look at the velour type of material that Dash Mat has. It is very
> nice for this. I used a color other than black to do the entire interior
> side panels of my airplane. It is very light but has a 1/8 " foam
> insulation on the back which insulates you from the (sometimes) cold skin
> surface very well and seems to have a little bit of sound deadening
> ability.
> Because it is meant for dash mats it is also very sun/fade resistant.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Installation |
<< The current method in favor with those forward-thinking boys at
Bakersfield is
> to have the cable run parallel to the elev root rib, instead of thru the
spar
> and the h stab. A small fitting holds the cable to the flange of the root
rib,
> and it is also tied to the elev horn (or in some cases , run thru the
horn!)
> You must modify the act. arm on the tab to do this, but it is a very EZ
mod,
> and makes installing and adjusting that cable a much simpler task.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Mark Does any one have a picture of this modification? I kind of get your
drift
but a picture is worth a thousand words.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
>>
Boy, I should have expected this -- it seems a LOT of you want to know about
this mod. My apologies for having no pictures, but here's a (possibly) better
explanation:
Referring to plans page 30 (RV-4):
Picture the cable running OVER the elev horn with about 1" clearance. The
cable must then turn to parallel the root rib on the left elevator. The cable
must also attach to the rib area somehow -- I drilled out a rivet, and used an
adel clamp secured by a #8 AN525 screw and nut to stabilize the cable housing
( a more hefty attach might be a better idea). The actuator arm on the trim
tab was per the plans, but it was left more or less flat (not bent) so the it
would remain parallel to the angle of the root rib, and also the angle of the
cable.
We also installed a larger adel on the top of the h stab spar as a slip guide
for the cable, as it moves with the elev a bit.
This is as installed on Bruce Bohannon's ship, which will more than likely be
the subject of many photos while on display at SnF -- maybe Sam can snap one
of this area, and post it to his web site.
You'll do the same as I did when I first saw one done this way -- SLAP on the
forehead -- Why didn't I think of that??!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
You may remember about a month ago I sent Roadway a letter complaining of
poor service in the two shipments they have made for me, loosing part of
the shipment in both cases. I received a response that in effect, said too
bad. Following are a few excerpts. On the wing shipment last year:
"In researching your complaint, I was unable to find a shipment to you on
or around May 1998."
I didn't give them a tracking number so I guess thier records don't include
customer names.
Concerning the February fuselage shipment:
"There are two possible reasons for misrouted freight. First, it could be
a misload by Roadway personnel. The second reason could be the shipper
gave Roadway bad information."
In both cases, the crates were clearly marked, Vans ships enough orders to
know how to do this properly.
Futher:
"Too much time has passed for me to discern why this happened to either of
your shipments."
My letter to customer support was in the mail the day following the
eventual delivery of the misplaced crate. Apparently, four or five days
after delivery everyone involved had forgotten all about it!
"However, I am forwarding your letter and my reply to the origin and
destination terminal managers so that they can take preventative measures
to prevent a recurrence of this problem."
I will take my own preventative measures, I will not ship with Roadway in
the future.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
waiting for a warm day to prime bulkheads & floor parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gannon, Terry" <Gannont(at)Fracmaster.com> |
| Subject: | Vintage Airways/Airlines |
Not directly RV related, folks, sorry, but I was looking to track down
anyone who knows anything about Vintage Airway/sAirlines - or maybe knows
someone who does. This was the Branson/Virgin venture in Florida that was
running a couple of DC-3s between Miami and Key West, I believe. I also
understand that they are now defunct. Please contact me off list at
gannont(at)home.com .
Thanx...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 22414
"Wings"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What paint do you all use? |
Scot...
Where do you get Dash Mat??
Chat
----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: What paint do you all use?
>
>
>>
>>Here in Arizona, I plan to use "Dash Mat" material.
>>Basically, real short pile carpet.
>>
>>Larry Olson
>>Cave Creek, AZ
>>RV6-Fuse N606RV
>>
>>
>Larry,
>Take a look at the velour type of material that Dash Mat has. It is very
>nice for this. I used a color other than black to do the entire interior
>side panels of my airplane. It is very light but has a 1/8 " foam
>insulation on the back which insulates you from the (sometimes) cold skin
>surface very well and seems to have a little bit of sound deadening
>ability.
>Because it is meant for dash mats it is also very sun/fade resistant.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:"Dash Matt'' |
Where can we find dash matt material ???
Ken Harrell
Bowling Green , Ky.
RV6 N7470U Flying
RV6 Q/B in shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 /8 engine |
I'm just curious. What makes this engine "for experimental
only"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
So far I have only installed them in race cars. On wet sump engines this was
done by adding a tee in the return line from the oil cooler. The oil cooler
was plumbed to a sandwich plate between the block and spin-on oil filter. I
am not sure of the best way to add to a Lycoming.
Chris Heitman
cjh(at)execpc.com
considering RV9 when available
-----Original Message-----
>Chris, Can you share how you installed the Accusump system in your RV? I am
>ordering an Accusump for my RV-4 though I must admit that I am uncertain as
>to the best hookup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/25/99 11:32:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
<< The nose wheel is a standard 5" aircraft nose wheel with a lamb tire.
What makes the nose wheel a lamb tire? What is a lamb tire? >>
It is a tube type tire made by Lamb common to light aircraft. Although it
fits on a 5" wheel, it is narrower and smaller in OD than a 5x5. It's also
used on more than a few ultralights as mains when mounted on Azusalite plastic
wheels. Check the ACS catalog.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Belany <jsbelany(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
> i got a few bucks to blow on tools and need advise on drill press and
> bandsaw. looking at 8 inch-1/3 hp. 5 speed craftsman drill press with
> fence about $120 and a variable speed craftsman band around $200. any
> suggestions?????????????????? thanx bob doin tail in arkansas
Bob, I would buy a larger drill press for sure. I bought the 8" drill press and
it is too small to even fit my fly cutter in! Go with something with a little
larger throat. I also do wood working and the 1/3 horse bogs down way to easy.
Joe #25491
Working on Horizontal stab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:"Dash Matt'' |
They are sold thru a car wash chain here in Phoenix.
My thought was to contact the manufacturer to see if I
could just buy a yard or so. Will post if successful.
Larry Olson
RV6 - Fuse
>
>Where can we find dash matt material ???
>Ken Harrell
>Bowling Green , Ky.
>RV6 N7470U Flying
>RV6 Q/B in shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)pop.kis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
I purchased to Sears non adjustable speed bandsaw and it works great. I
bought the adjustable speed bandsaw a couple of years later to cut steel
tubing for my Pitts. It's a piece of junk! Doesn't even cut aluminum well.
I'd be glad to sell it if anyone is interested!
-Gene Gottschalk
RV6A, N700RV
Frederick, Maryland
>
>I have the Craftsman variable speed bandsaw with a non-ferrous metal cutting
>blade and it works well on the aluminum speed setting. Wear eye protection
>of course, as it occasionally flings a chip skyward. The Sears drill press
>looks OK but also check Harbor Freight (see archives) as their $59 (on sale
>sometimes) inch drill press has served me well on the empennage.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Phil Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rear seat vent bracket |
RV Tech Support
The plans for F-814J, rear seat vent bracket say to make it from AA3 063
3/4x3/4. I can't find any of this angle, nor can I find it listed in my
fuselage inventory. Should it actually be made from an AA3 angle or scrap
from an earlier part? If it is to be made from scrap, how can I tell T3
from T6 material?
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
A lamb tire is 11.4 in diameter instead of the the standard 15" of a 5:00x5.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 1:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lamb tire
>
>The nose wheel is a standard 5" aircraft nose wheel with a lamb tire.
>
>What makes the nose wheel a lamb tire? What is a lamb tire?
>
>Inquiring minds want to know.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's BIG Mistake |
Listers
In talking with an avionics shop the other day, as I often do working and
cutting panels. I mentioned JPI's Mistake to him and my mind begin to work.
You the builders buy from these guys, here's another way to get to JPI's
managment. Start calling your suppliers tell them about Matt's misfortune.
Maybe they can help get the point across that this industry will not support a
bully. Somebody mentiond as I did that we were going to post this on there web
site. I would like to here from those people so we can group together, when
someone surf's in, we have links to all pages standing together in this cause.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 /8 engine |
When the Data Plate is removed due to modification of fuel systems, ignition
system, pistons, etc. Any part not originally certified for that engine by
the FAA.
-----Original Message-----
From: MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com>
Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 /8 engine
>
>I'm just curious. What makes this engine "for experimental
>only"?
>
>
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
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END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rfiler(at)glenvan.glenayre.com (Rory Filer [4438]) |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Hi
Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
transport the blade 'round.
All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
somewhere else?
Rory Filer - RV-6A (Stocking the shop)
>
>
> I purchased to Sears non adjustable speed bandsaw and it works great. I
> bought the adjustable speed bandsaw a couple of years later to cut steel
> tubing for my Pitts. It's a piece of junk! Doesn't even cut aluminum well.
> I'd be glad to sell it if anyone is interested!
>
> -Gene Gottschalk
> RV6A, N700RV
> Frederick, Maryland
>
> >
> >I have the Craftsman variable speed bandsaw with a non-ferrous metal cutting
> >blade and it works well on the aluminum speed setting. Wear eye protection
> >of course, as it occasionally flings a chip skyward. The Sears drill press
> >looks OK but also check Harbor Freight (see archives) as their $59 (on sale
> >sometimes) inch drill press has served me well on the empennage.
> >
> >Good luck!
> >
> >Phil Smith
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Boycott JPI logo |
Moe:
The logo's URL is
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/nojpi.jpg
You can add this logo to your web page by putting the following string
at the appropriate place.
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/nojpi.jpg">
That'll save you from having to copy the image file, and also save you
disc space on your web site.
This is Tim Lewis's web page
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
which has a lot of information about the boycott and the JPI/Matronics
issue.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | drill press/bandsaw question |
I have a 10" Sears bandsaw. It is the compact kind with three wheels. The
wheels are plastic with rubber "tires" that are replaceable. Sears sells
the blades, and a metal cutting blade is available. In fact I bought one
last month.
I haven't had any trouble with the metal filings clogging up the works or
harming the wheels. The saw cuts Al very well, but it is noisy compared to
cutting wood. I vacuum out the insides every now and then and check the
condition of the blade and other wearable parts. I replaced the rubber
"tires" once about four years ago.
Sears is the only source for the blades that fit my bandsaw. The blades are
three quarters of an inch longer than the standard size for bandsaws of this
type. I have never had any trouble getting blades from Sears, though. I
have several different kinds on hand so I can use the right blade for the
material I am cutting.
I have had the bandsaw for about ten years. It is good for light cutting.
Most of its use in my shop has been for building things out of wood. You
know, wood. I built my kitchen out of the stuff. I built my shop out of
wood. Projects that had a beginning, a middle and an end. That's what I
used to do for fun before I started the never-ending project of building
this RV-6A.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage waiting for the finish kit (four years and still earth bound)
-----Original Message-----The salesman
said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal
because
the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels
used to
transport the blade 'round.
All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to
have this
plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on
the drive
wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal
cutting. Do
most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting
blades
somewhere else?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
I use a Craftsman 12" bandsaw with a 80" blade. Mine is about six years old an
I can't recall if it has the plastic wheels or the metal wheels, but it is a
Sears model and I haven't had any problems with it cutting aluminum.
As for blades, I know Craftsman has a wide variety of blades, and several are specifically
for ferrous metals, I would try to find a more knowledgeable salesperson.
I have personally found that the blade designed for steel works well on aluminum
and lasts a long time. I have also found that if you use it for what it is
designed for, steel, it will become dull after a few passes and will no longer
work on steel or even the aluminum. Therefore, I keep one blade that is only
used for aluminum and one blade for other metals.
A few people on the list have said that a medium wood blade works well for cutting
the bar stock aluminum, but I have never tried it.
Hope this helps,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
>>> Rory Filer [4438] 03/26 11:59 AM >>>
Hi
Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
transport the blade 'round.
All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
somewhere else?
Rory Filer - RV-6A (Stocking the shop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's BIG Mistake |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
Should we be boycotting Electronics International too? Didn't they start
this whole thing by sueing JPI in the first place?
Bruce Green
>You the builders buy from these guys, here's another way to get to
>JPI's
>managment. Start calling your suppliers tell them about Matt's
>misfortune.
>Maybe they can help get the point across that this industry will not
>support a
>bully.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com |
| Subject: | Retractable RV8? |
The post http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896rtk-1.jpg is an RV-4
retract. I had an engineer make up some drawings for me a while back. His
name was Pat Falley. He was working on a tapered wing/retract on his RV-4.
He had over 1000 extra hours in his left wing alone. The RV-8 modification
he drew up for me looks fairly straight forward. He moved the fuel tanks
outboard toward the tips. I decided against it as it would only provide
MAYBE 5 knots and add 600+ hours and $15,000+ to the project.
If you are interested in a DWG file (exterior), I've got a copy. Email me
directly.
Paul Imhof
RV-8 #80024 - QB
On gear, working on rear seat and floor
Here's an Email I dug up when I was considering it for my RV-8:
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Falley
Sent: Friday, February 21, 1997 1:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV-8
Paul,
A couple of comments.
The landing loads on the wing will be lower than flight loads
with the exception of in torsion, hence the need to beef up the
portion of the rib that extends to the aft spar. This gives about a
20 inch arm to balance the moment generated by the wheels. Some
local strengthening of the aft spar is required as well as a suitable
method to carry the load through the main spar (I used AN4 and AN5
bolts on my wing to do this).
The leading edge extensions at the root actually improve both low and
high speed characteristics. To what degree I can't say for sure, but
a lot of Glass-air builders are adding similar extensions and report
a 5 kt increase at top end and 2 - 3 knots lower stall speed.
The key is that the leading edge extensions have the camber line of
the airfoil cranked down about 5 degrees, forming a "cuff".
The theory works something like this:
At high speed, the airflow at the wing root has a localized increase
in angle of attack due to the wing/fuselage intersection (in RVs, this
is an area of very dirty airflow because of the sharp corner made
where the side of the fuselage meets the bottom ). By bending the
leading edge down to meet the airflow, the interference drag is
reduced.
At low speed, the increased camber increases max cl, lowering stall
speed. Although increasing cl at the root degrades stall
characteristics, the extensions are small enough compared to the
overall wing this will not be noticable.
Actually, on my wing, the wheels fit within the wing. I am sitting
on the fence as to the advantages/disadvantages of inboard doors to
cover the wheels when they are retracted.
regards,
Pat Falley
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Johnson [mailto:scottj(at)ais.net]
Hi Mark,
I happened to see a set of full size plans for an RV8 retractable drawn up
by a well known aeronautical engineer. An individual has already started
construction on the gear itself. I would like to be able to tell you more,
but it was the persons wishes not to divulge the specifics at this time. I
felt privileged being able to see the plans.
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark S. Jennings <markjenn(at)halcyon.com>
>
>I know this cuts against the grain of the KISS/cheap philosophy the Van
>exposes, but are there any rumors of a retract RV8? Has anyone looked into
>what would be required? Is there room in the wing?
>
>The 8 has a nice mini-T28 look about it, a retract option would really
>complete the picture.
>
>- Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Rory Filer [4438] wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
> look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
> said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
> the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
> transport the blade 'round.
>
> All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
> plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
> wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
>
> He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
> most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
> somewhere else?
Rory - I bought the small three wheel bandsaw from Sears and have not had any
problems cutting metal with the wood blades. I use 1/8" x 12 teeth and get a smooth
cut. I have found no damage to the wheels and the only maintenance needed it to
vacuum out the interior of the saw monthly and wipe off the wheels. I have built
my
entire RV-6 with it and have only used three blades. Don't use the blades on
fiberglass - you get a really dull blade that won't touch metal real quick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric gyros - AI & DG |
>Do they generally last longer than vacuums or less long??
My information is that they last about the same length of time. If you are
religious about taking care of your filter in the pneumatic system, vacuum
gyros last a long time. OTOH, vacuum pumps fail much more often so I would
guess that from a system point of view, i.e. taking all the components into
consideration, an electric gyro system will suffer fewer failures.
>Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
I can't think of any. I have an all electric gyro panel in my RV-4. I am
happy with it. Backup electrical power is easier to come by than backup
pneumatic power IMHO.
>I figure the same but vacuum and with a vacuum system would cost about
>$1500 and be more work and less weight. It would be easier with electrics
>to have a removable section.
That is true.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Finding a GOOD Engine - Parts 1 & 2 |
In an effort to repay the RV-List for all the help provided, in
building our dream. We are providing a history of our search for a good
used O-360 Lycoming engine and it's performance. I hope this helps
others.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - awaiting QB
Part 1 - The Education
As a first time builder (building a RV-8A), I have lost sleep over many
things. However, engine selection ranks far and away as the leader. I
had accepted Van's recommendation of a Lycoming engine, early on, and
originally planned on buying a new engine from Van's. When my partner
(my son David) and I decided to go with the Quick Build kit, the budget
said no way. I began my research and the more I investigated the greater
the stress level rose. Almost everyone had a horror story about buying
used engines and most overhaulers. I became convinced that unless you
were in the "Business" forever, you can only hope to be very lucky.
I contacted all the Salvage yards, talked to anyone remotely connected
with aviation, called almost every overhauler in Trade-A-Plane and felt
less comfortable with each additional contact. I was also pleasantly
surprised at how much time and advice was provided by almost everyone I
talked to. My problem was that I wanted the confidence that a new engine
provided, but had a tight budget (still do) that said I could afford a
mid-time engine. I talked to Aero Sport and while they are well
respected, the budget still said mid-time engine.
In late December, I contacted Fred Strucklen, and requested one of his
famous flights. Fred very generously obliged and we flew with him in his
beautiful RV-6A in January. After the flight, I asked him about his
engine. He described how he had an engine builder in Florida build an
engine for him, from the specifications he provided. Fred also said
that, following his nose gear collapse, how the builder tore down the
engine, checked it out, reassembled it and sent it back to him for
approximately $1500.
When asked for the builder's name he said Dick Waters of Air-Tec. Fred
also spent considerable time with me identifying many items that should
be included/confirmed prior to buying an engine. - Thanks Fred for
everything -
I called Dick Waters a couple of days later and discussed what I was
looking for. He had a three of engines available, but they were either
the wrong size or too expensive. Dick and I spent a considerable amount
of time discussing what I was looking for and his business philosophy,
including warranty. By this time, I knew the major questions to ask and
could talk the basic terminology.
Part 2 - The Engine
Dick Waters called me in early February and said he was getting an
engine in that might meet my requirements. It was an IO-360 C1E6 (200hp)
from a Seneca. The engine had been overhauled, by Air-Tec, following a
prop strike and now had 1038 hours. Dick said he was going to tear the
engine down, check it out and if it was good would give me a call. I
said that I might be interested, but I'd need the engine converted to an
IO-360 A1B6 configuration. He said that he would do the conversion and
estimated that the total cost to be around $13,500. The engine would
come with a two year warranty on the crank and case and a one year
warranty on the cylinders - all beginning from the first flight. In
addition, the engine comes with a vacuum pump and prop governor.
Dick called back on March 3rd and said the crank and flange had checked
out and was yellow tagged. He will be installing full sets of rings,
bearings (3 over) rod & main. I asked him about installing a light
weight alternator and starter. He agreed to replace both for an
additional $449. Dick also said that he was sending out the Bendix fuel
injection servo to be checked out and yellow tagged and estimated the
additional cost to be around $100.
When I informed the RV-List that I thought I had found an engine I
received a few responses that suggested that I should be careful in
dealing with Mr. Waters. While no one could identify anyone who had a
problem with Mr. Waters they seemed to remember hearing that someone
did. A few responders also said that they knew someone who had bought
one of Mr.Water's engines and had no problems. I called or wrote to a
number of people mentioned and confirmed that they had heard something
but couldn't remember who had the problem.
I started to have second thoughts, but realized that anyone who has
been in business for a number of years and sold thousands of engines was
bound to have a few problems. This was confirmed in the latest Aviation
Consumer's article on engine overhaulers. The issue really comes down to
this: do I trust Dick Waters. One of things I remembered from a couple
of responses was this statement: "Dick had been in the business for a
long time and wasn't going to disappear tomorrow". Based on all this
information and a gut feeling, I have concluded that Dick Waters is who
he claims to be, an honest business man of the old school, who is
willing to sign his name to what he builds/sells and will stand behind
his work.
I will update this history with Part 3 - The Purchase, when we finalize
the deal, hopefully within the next two weeks.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Retractable RV8? |
Paul said of retractable gear:
>I decided against it as it would only provide
> MAYBE 5 knots and add 600+ hours and $15,000+ to the project.
These costs are just a start. You have to maintain it and it is *MUCH* more
expensve to maintain than fixed gear. I had to have 34V's gear overhauled a
few years ago and I repressed the memory of the costs. Beech knows how to turn
base metals into gold!
Your insurance will probably be significantly more expensive to cover your
inevitable wheels up landing. They say that there are those who have landed
wheels up and those who will. I hope I can get Valentine in the air and the
Debonair sold before I do it.
There is one other advantage other than speed and that is that when emergency
landing on water or mush, doing it wheels up may save flipping.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Fitting cowl, controls
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rfiler(at)glenvan.glenayre.com (Rory Filer [4438]) |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Hi Doug
Thanks for taking the time to send some information. It's all new stuff
to me, but I'm finding the RV-list a great help. Looking forward to getting
started!
Regards
Rory Filer
> Rory - I bought the small three wheel bandsaw from Sears and have not had any
> problems cutting metal with the wood blades. I use 1/8" x 12 teeth and get a
smooth
> cut. I have found no damage to the wheels and the only maintenance needed it
to
> vacuum out the interior of the saw monthly and wipe off the wheels. I have built
my
> entire RV-6 with it and have only used three blades. Don't use the blades on
> fiberglass - you get a really dull blade that won't touch metal real quick.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. A. Loeffler" <irlgmbh(at)okay.net> |
| Subject: | strange blank mails |
Hi,
for several days I receive attached
blank mail from the RV list server.
Yesterday alone five of them. Does
anyone have an idea what is going on
there?
loef
-----Ursprngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Datum: Donnerstag, 25. Mrz 1999 20:08
|
|
+---------------------------------------
-----------------------------------
| The RV-List is sponsored by
Matronics, makers of fine Aircraft
| Avionics, and by the generous
Contributions of List members.
|
+---------------------------------------
-----------------------------------
| Matronics:
http://www.matronics.com
| RV-List:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
| List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
| Archive Search Engine:
http://www.matronics.com/search
| Archive Browsing:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
| Other Email Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/other
|
+---------------------------------------
-----------------------------------
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat vent bracket |
>
>The plans for F-814J, rear seat vent bracket say to make it from AA3
063
>3/4x3/4. I can't find any of this angle, nor can I find it listed in
my
>fuselage inventory. Should it actually be made from an AA3 angle or
scrap
>from an earlier part? If it is to be made from scrap, how can I tell
T3
>from T6 material?
>
>Thanks
>Scott A. Jordan
>80331
Scott,
There should be enough of the AA3 stock in the kit. I ran short right at
the end of the fuselage kit, and had to borrow 13.5" for the front seat
back assembly. The vent bracket isn't a critical airframe component, so
most any suitable stock...T3, T6 or whatever should work out. I wouldn't
use the bent, .032" angle, it would be rather flimsy.
I know the "phantom parts" list on the inventory sheet can be quite hard
to figure out...it gave me fits too. Don't let it waste too much of your
time though. Just find some 3/4x3/4 angle, cut the three inch piece, and
get on with it. Extra bits of angle and sheet stock will likely need to
be purchased later anyway.
Just my experience. Your mileage may vary.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
engine ships monday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Brad-
I purchased the plans for the M-1, and after talking with some people about
flight characteristics, cockpit room, etc., and seeing both the M-1 and
RV-3, I went with the RV-3.
Some of my reasoning behind going with the -3:
- If I remember correctly, the M-1 has about a 20-21" wide cockpit vs. the
RV-3's 24" wide cockpit. it mad a big difference for me being about 215 and
broad shouldered.
- The M-1 has a laminar flow airfoil that if not true to it's shape or you
have inconsistencies in the bend of the leading edge, you can get some "wild
rides" and different flying characteristics between bird-to-bird. I know of
a M-2 owner that has some slight inconsistencies in his leading edge (same
airfoil as the M-1 I believe) and has some straight-ass nasty stall
tendencies in the thing. The pilot who flew the thing back for the owner
from the east coast was turning base-to-final and had the aircraft start to
go into a spin on him! Needless to say, he doesn't care for the craft at
all?!? I think that you will find the -3 an easier airplane to fly and
especially land!
There are some advantages to the M-1 though, that include: higher cruise
speeds on less HP, no bad history of wing departures, smaller airframes for
smaller engines=less fuel, etc., etc.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finding a GOOD Engine - Parts 1 & 2 |
>
> In an effort to repay the RV-List for all the help provided, in
>building our dream. We are providing a history of our search for a good
>used O-360 Lycoming engine and it's performance. I hope this helps
>others.
If you are building an RV and are thinking about your engine options,
consider buying a run-out core and doing your own rebuild. You can end up
with a champagne engine on a beer budget. I did and I am very happy with
the result.
I have an O-320-D2J in my RV-4. A local A&P looked over my shoulder and
signed off the logbook so I ended up with a zero-time-SMOH engine. The
price was, IMHO, reasonable for what I ended up with (my overhaul ended up
costing me about $9000). For that I ended up with a zero-time engine with
reworked cylinders, new mags, overhauled carb, overhauled fuel pump, but
with the old starter and alternator.
The flat-four engines from Lycoming are simplicity incarnate. Of all the
components, the following are the ones you need to be good:
crank
cases
gears
connecting rods
If you are lucky you may get to reuse the camshaft. I was lucky and we
only had to resurface the cam (less than 0.002" removed anywhere).
When I started the engine was already in the RV-4. It had 2600 hrs SNEW.
At about 2000 hrs it was removed from a C-172 and installed in the RV-4.
It flew another 600 hrs in the RV-4 before I decided to overhaul it. When
we tore it down everything seemed to be in pretty good shape.
I removed all external components; e.g. alternator, generator, mags, carb,
fuel pump, etc.; and the cylinders. The cylinders went to Lycon where they
were reworked; e.g. bored +0.010, minor head cracks welded, ported,
polished, etc.; and built up with new valves, guides, springs, pistons,
rings, wrist pins, and plugs. The bottom end went to Nickson Machine where
they tore down the bottom end, inspected everything, and returned the
pieces. Good stuff was reworked and yellow tagged. I was lucky and the
cam came back yellow tagged (don't count on this happening to you). They
also pressed new bushings in the cases where appropriate.
The build-up was rather anticlimatic. It took about a month to get all the
new parts (small bolts, rod-end bolts, bearings, gaskets, seals, lifter
bodies, lifters, etc.). It took two weekends to actually assemble the engine.
I am sure that an experienced shop could do this much more rapidly but I
have the pleasure of knowing the status of every component in the engine.
I know that every bolt had its torque checked three times. Not only that
but I know exactly how an O-320 goes together. I would have no qualms
about doing major repairs to this engine in the future.
I have put over 60 hours on the engine including the recent trip to
Minneapolis and Rocky Mountain crossing. The engine has settled down to
using about 1 quart of oil every 20 hours (it used only 1 quart on my trip
to Minneapolis and back). I am statisfied that this engine is as good as
anything I could get from any rebuilder or from Lycoming. If you consider
that this engine has a core value of $3,500 then my engine ended up costing
me about $12,500. That seems pretty reasonable to me.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
Thanks! I am also investigating a connection between the sump and the oil
pressure sensor outlet.
----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Friday, March 26, 1999 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers
>
> So far I have only installed them in race cars. On wet sump engines this
was
> done by adding a tee in the return line from the oil cooler. The oil
cooler
> was plumbed to a sandwich plate between the block and spin-on oil filter.
I
> am not sure of the best way to add to a Lycoming.
>
> Chris Heitman
> cjh(at)execpc.com
> considering RV9 when available
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >Chris, Can you share how you installed the Accusump system in your RV? I
am
> >ordering an Accusump for my RV-4 though I must admit that I am uncertain
as
> >to the best hookup.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More engine experiences (long) |
>
> In an effort to repay the RV-List for all the help provided, in
>building our dream. We are providing a history of our search for a good
>used O-360 Lycoming engine and it's performance. I hope this helps
>others.
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
Chuck and Dave,
Your experiences in your engine search practically parallel mine. I, too
lost sleep, and even got downright grouchy at times from the sheer
mental angst over such a large purchase for a rather simple piece of
machinery. Russell Duffy and I exchanged numerous emails over this
topic...from buying new, to buying very old, to something in the
middle..and never coming up with a really warm fuzzy feeling inside with
either of these options. It truly is a compromise.
The recent experiences with brand new Lycomings in factory fresh
Skyhawks at Embry Riddle added some clarity to the picture: NEW doesn't
necessarily mean GOOD. Still, there is a warranty to cover it. This IS a
valuable asset.
I chatted at length with Mr. Waters several months ago, and also felt
comfortable with our discussion. He had several O-360's coming in from
Europe, most with high time, but that's since factory new. Still, that
would likely present the need for at least a top overhaul within a year
or so. This didn't quite appeal to me. I think you'll do fine with him,
and you have learned how and what to ask at the right time. An educated
consumer seldom gets taken advantage of.
My next idea was to call various rebuilders around the country. I've
lost track of how many. All were in the $15k price range, and all told
of vast experience and seemed honest and patient with me. One didn't
return my calls, and was eliminated. I then contacted Bart Lalonde. I
placed a "request" for him to build up an O-360 with a used crankshaft.
Well, these buggers seem to be a true rarity. So, three months later, no
crankshaft, and I'm still financially unable to afford the "full meal
deal". If the funds were available, I would not hesitate an instant to
write a check to Bart. A more skilled and talented engine builder would
be hard to find.
So, now it's nearing the end of March, I've sprouted a few gray hairs
over this dilemma, and I have an airplane that needs an engine. NOW!
During this time, I read everything I could find, from Lycoming, Tony
Bingelis, John Schwaner, etc. This, and discussions at length with my
trusted A&P/IA friend, (where would I be without ya, Mike?) at least
left me able to ask the right questions. I called Central Air Parts,
since they obviously have been around for a long time. I believe this
would not be the case were they to have shoddy ethics or lack of
customer relations skills.
Jerry at CAP was very easy to talk with, and not once did I feel a "get
on with it buddy, do ya want it or not?" attitude. Every question was
answered, if he couldn't offer an answer, he pulled the logbooks, and
read verbatim what they said. He offered the name of the aircraft owner
in Florida, where the engine came from as well. I double checked the N
number registry, it all was exactly as Jerry said it was. Jerry offered
to run the engine on the test stand for me...while I watch. Too bad it's
1000 miles away!
I decided to go ahead with it. I made an offer (less than the stated
price in Trade a Plane, by the way), they accepted, and thus I now own
an engine. It's not HERE yet...so it ain't over! It should be here late
next week...with a few extra goodies thrown in...FREE OF CHARGE. These
items would cost me over $400 if purchased elsewhere.
I'll update the list of any discrepancies I find with the engine. We
plan to dye penetrant check various areas, dial the flange, and check
compressions right out of the crate. It's an O-360A4J, with the sump
changed out to a standard, "A" or "M" configuration. It has 300 hrs.
SMOH from Certified Engines in Florida. It has no damage history, and
the aircraft it came out of was totalled when a neighboring, parked
aircraft ran into it during a storm while they were (at least in theory)
tied down. The gear never collapsed, thus the prop did not touch the
ground.
Okay, time to go wire something. I hope I've helped out somewhat.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: strange blank mails |
In a message dated 3/26/99 1:38:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, irlgmbh(at)okay.net
writes:
<< Does
anyone have an idea what is going on
there? >>
Not a clue on this, but I have had the same, and deleted the same. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 /8 engine |
>
>Listers,
>
>Does any one have a list or where I can find a list of "What must be included
>in an overhauled engine" The local FSDO claimed that its any part that is
>necessary to make the engine run. Case, Cam, Crank, Cylinders, Spark Plugs,
>Mags, Harness,
>Carb or Fuel Injector, Starter.
I don't believe that it includes accessories. That means that you can
overhaul but technically use the same starter, alternator, mags, carb, etc.
>If any of the above are left out - What do you have. ? A Repaired
>Engine.....This is not an overhaul but a repair.
I don't think you are quite correct about that.
>Is the Oil Pump part of the overhaul....
Yes, it is. All of the different oil pump ADs require you to change the
oil pump any time you open up the accessory housing so you must change it
to the approved config at overhaul time anyway.
>I could use all the imput you have since I paid for a Overhauled IO360 C1E6
>and I did not get 2 Overhauled Mags, Starter, Spark Plugs, and I am being
>charged an additional 377.00 for the Oil Pump. In short he wants more money
>than a factory new, zero time would have cost me.
When you get an engine from Lycoming, sometimes it does not come with
starter and/or alternator and, surprisingly, sometimes it does. No, I have
not been able to figure out how to know if you are or aren't going to get
these things. Not too long ago my father bought a factory overhauled O-540
for our Comanche and it came with new Slick retard-breaker
(shower-of-sparks) mags, alternator, and lightweight starter. Go figure.
If your engine was overhauled before the most recent oil pump AD, you might
have the steel/aluminum gear combination. I would have to go back and
check the AD but, as I recall, you have until TBO (2000 hrs) or something
like the year 2001 to change it out. I can't imagine that it was
overhauled that long ago tho'. The AD on the oil pump came out a couple
years ago. If they didn't do the new oil pump gears and housing at that
time, the engine is not airworthy.
It is for reasons like this that I chose to overhaul my engine myself. I
knew *exactly* what I was getting.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"Re: RV-List: strange blank mails" (Mar 26, 5:00pm)
| Subject: | Re: strange blank mails |
>--------------
><< Does
> anyone have an idea what is going on
> there? >>
>
>Not a clue on this, but I have had the same, and deleted the same.
>
>--------------
Every once in a while the Matronics email computers system crashes (a
possible harddisk problem I'm looking into). Depending on how many
outgoing messages are in the queue at the time of the crash, a few of
these blank messages get sent out for some reason. Best thing to do is
just hit the delete key...
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>There should be enough of the AA3 stock in the kit.<
Actually, there isn't any. This caught my attention because the plans say
to use T3 063 3/4x3/4 and I didn't have any. Vans answered and said that
all 063 3/4x3/4 angle they ship is T6, not what the plans call for.
Knowing it can't be too critical, I grabbed a piece of "scrap" angle and
made the piece. Don't know why they don't just say to make it from any
3/4x3/4 angle.
Now, if it would only warm up I could get a lot of priming done and jig the
bulkheads.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's BIG Mistake |
>Should we be boycotting Electronics International too? Didn't they
>start
>this whole thing by sueing JPI in the first place?
>
>Bruce Green
>
I think you accidently got it backwards.
E.I. was sued by JPI for the use of scanner in there Smart Scanner, and
Ultimate Scanner products.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: paint or powder coating for RV-8 landing gear |
>I am wondering about what to put on my RV-8 landing gear legs for
>corrosion protection. Will they flex enough to cause problems with
>any types of paint or powder coating?
>
>I assume that I need something pretty tough, or it will wear off the
>LG leg at the wear plates. Or, will anything I put on wear there,
>and I just need to put some grease in that area to protect from rust?
-
A very small coating of grease is not a bad idea because most any coating
that is on these surfaces will wear through.
Pay particular attention to the note in the construction man. about
re-torquing intervals for the gear attach bolts. If you have a heavy
buildup of powder coat or paint that may be wearing away over time, then
the intervals should maybe be reduced.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
Rory Filer [4438] wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
> look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
> said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
> the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
> transport the blade 'round.
>
> All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
> plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
> wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
>
I use a Tradesman 10 inch bandsaw(ACE hardware) and the plastic wheels
have replaceable rubber bands around them that the blade rides on. This
saves the plastic wheel. I have replaced them once in two years.
> He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
> most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
> somewhere else?
Wrong, that's were I buy mine. Part #926655 14 tpi metal cutting blade
for non-ferrous metal. Don't even think about trying to cut steel with
it. Will ruin the blade in one revolution(don't ask how I know)!!
> Rory Filer - RV-6A (Stocking the shop)
>
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerrydd(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | Engine And Prop For Sale |
I have an 0-360A1A engine 0 since major overhaul and 0 since overhaul
McCauley constant speed propeller for sale $18,000 for both. Contact me
off list at jerrydd(at)earthlink.net or 1-800-221-3418
Jerry Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3 vs Midget |
Rob: I found your discussion very interesting comparing the M1 to the RV-3. My
first Home built was a MII, It was very hard to get the leading edges uniform,
as at that time we was using 1/8" rivets. I had some tricky stall
characteristics. I was doing some stall strip test on the wing because it gave
no warning when it would stall, It was very docile at the very first break of
the stall, but if you continued to hold it in a stall condition it would break
to the right and have a tendency to roll over on it's back and just fall like
a
leaf until the speed built up, and the nose would drop and then it would start
flying again about 1,000ft later. To say the least it would scare the hell out
of you. My second home built was a RV- 6, a real honest airplane. I sold it in
Oct. after flying it for 6 years, I was OK for about 2 month before I had to
have another RV, This time I am Building a RV-6AQB. I should receive my kit in
may, I can't hardly wait to get started. My only worry now is finding an 0-360
engine. I hope this was not to boring as I have flown both airplanes and there
is no comparison.
Harv- waiting
Do not arcive
Rob Reece wrote:
>
> Brad-
>
> I purchased the plans for the M-1, and after talking with some people about
> flight characteristics, cockpit room, etc., and seeing both the M-1 and
> RV-3, I went with the RV-3.
>
> Some of my reasoning behind going with the -3:
> - If I remember correctly, the M-1 has about a 20-21" wide cockpit vs. the
> RV-3's 24" wide cockpit. it mad a big difference for me being about 215 and
> broad shouldered.
>
> - The M-1 has a laminar flow airfoil that if not true to it's shape or you
> have inconsistencies in the bend of the leading edge, you can get some "wild
> rides" and different flying characteristics between bird-to-bird. I know of
> a M-2 owner that has some slight inconsistencies in his leading edge (same
> airfoil as the M-1 I believe) and has some straight-ass nasty stall
> tendencies in the thing. The pilot who flew the thing back for the owner
> from the east coast was turning base-to-final and had the aircraft start to
> go into a spin on him! Needless to say, he doesn't care for the craft at
> all?!? I think that you will find the -3 an easier airplane to fly and
> especially land!
>
> There are some advantages to the M-1 though, that include: higher cruise
> speeds on less HP, no bad history of wing departures, smaller airframes for
> smaller engines=less fuel, etc., etc.
>
> Rob Reece
> RV-3 SN45
> Socorro, NM
> 505-835-3644
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
I was off the list for several weeks. Has there been any talk of Van's
banquet?
Bernie Kerr, 6A engine and panel, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: strange blank mails |
>><< Does
>> anyone have an idea what is going on
>> there? >>
>>
>>Not a clue on this, but I have had the same, and deleted the same.
>>
>>--------------
I figured it was someone like me. Didn't have anything interesting to say
and didn't want to get flamed for not saying it.
John D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
In a message dated 3/26/99 9:10:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rfiler(at)glenvan.glenayre.com writes:
<<
Hi
Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
transport the blade 'round.
All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
somewhere else?
Rory Filer - RV-6A (Stocking the shop)
>>
It has been my experience that I get more band saw or drill press for my money
at Harbor Freight than I do at Sears..
Fred LaForge RV-4
50 hrs &
Flying great
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's LAST MISTAKE |
In a message dated 3/26/99 5:48:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com writes:
<< E.I. was sued by JPI for the use of scanner in there Smart Scanner, and
Ultimate Scanner products. >>
If this is so, IMO it is our solemn duty to bring JPI down hard. This crap
must stop!!
I realize that this is so reminiscent of the little Chihuahua chanting Viva
Gorditas in the Taco Bell spots, but are you with me? Let's say it all
together... NO JPI! NO JPI! Viva Matronics! Viva FuelScan!
All of you need to talk this up at your Chapter meetings and everyone
attending SnF needs to express our collective disapproval of JPI to them in no
uncertain terms. They should emerge from SnF bruised, battered (not
necessarily in that order) and with empty order books.
Definitely feeling my Gorditas and possibly even my huevos rancheros,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun? |
Bernie & listers,
I had to call Van's today. I goofed and had to order some new leading
edge ribs. I wasn't happy with the way my left leading edge skin fit. I
ordered a ticket to the banquet while I had my sorely overworked credit
card out! :-(
The banquet is Tuesday the 13th, at 6:30pm. Tickets are $18 for the
chicken and $25 for the steak. I almost lost out on the banquet last
year because I waited till noon, the day of the banquet last year, to
buy a ticket. They had all been sold. I lucked out because while I was
at Van's tent, a gentleman with a family emergency came in. He had
bought 2 tickets and wanted to return them. I got 1 of them. :-) Don't
wait, get yours now.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 moving on to the fuel tanks while I await new ribs.
Boca Raton, Fl.
> I was off the list for several weeks. Has there been any talk of Van's
> banquet?
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A engine and panel, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun? |
Hi Bernie,
As I seem to recall, you sent a message to Van's (that passed by me) last
week asking about the banquet. Did they ever respond to you? Just trying
to do some customer service QC here...
Have a great day,
~Jeremy
**Jeremy W. Benedict * jwb(at)europa.com * (503) 514-3100 vm/pager**
**Intel-Hawthorne * RV-x Pilot**
SD: I maintain the official Van's web site, but I am not an employee of
Van's Aircraft, Inc., so this e-mail is not an official response.
>
>I was off the list for several weeks. Has there been any talk of Van's
>banquet?
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A engine and panel, SE Fla
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun'nFun, Crate Sizes, RVator, Mountains |
Geez, looks like I can't even practice what I preach with making sure to
use correct e-mail header info and such... :-)
Oh well. But since I'm out here in public rv-list land, I may as well add
something useful for everyone. Pertaining to a recent discussion on
e-mail/crate sizes/shipping, etc., if you ever need to know the size of the
RV kit crates, they are available on-line. Just surf over to the Van's web
site (www.vansaircraft.com), click on "Aircraft Kits", then click on either
"Standard" or "QuickBuild"; the respective info is near the bottom of each
page.
Also, for those who salivate upon hearing the mailperson arrive, don't
despair about not seeing an RVator in the box--it shouldn't be long before
it's there...
Finally, if you will allow me to comment on the recent mountain flying
discussion: when cross-country flying "across the mountains", I am not
"mountain flying." Two different things. For someone just trying to get
from one side of the country to the other, this can be an important
distinction. Of course, I am not saying that flying "across the mountains"
requires absolutely no training, preparation, or special awareness...it
does. Just different.
BTW: Where I live, we have many 3000'-8000' "hills", and a couple "mountains."
Have a great day out there in RV-land everyone,
Jeremy
jwb(at)europa.com
Usual disclaimer applies...
>
>Hi Bernie,
>
>As I seem to recall, you sent a message to Van's (that passed by me) last
>week asking about the banquet. Did they ever respond to you? Just trying
>to do some customer service QC here...
>
>Have a great day,
>~Jeremy
>**Jeremy W. Benedict * jwb(at)europa.com * (503) 514-3100 vm/pager**
>**Intel-Hawthorne * RV-x Pilot**
>
>SD: I maintain the official Van's web site, but I am not an employee of
>Van's Aircraft, Inc., so this e-mail is not an official response.
>
>
>>
>>I was off the list for several weeks. Has there been any talk of Van's
>>banquet?
>>
>>Bernie Kerr, 6A engine and panel, SE Fla
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming, LPE and Ceramic coatings |
Just purchased an IO-360A1B6D from MOD Works and I'm now looking to have
this "Mid" time (1300 SMO) engine overhauled.
I was wonder if any of the RV-List listeners have (or are going to have)
Darus Zehrbach from Light Power Engine (LPE) Corp. ceramic coat their
engine's exhaust stack and valve faces? I'm also considering electronic
ignition and electronic fuel injection from LPE. I don't know a thing about
him or his company. Very curious: If someone has some first-hand experiences
please pass them on.
Also, Darus (LPE) uses T.W. Smith as their overhaul shop. Any good/bad
experiences with T.W.?
Thanks
Paul Imhof
RV-8 #80024 - QB
On gear, tail on, working on rear seat and floor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun? |
In a message dated 3/27/99 3:15:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, jwb(at)europa.com
writes:
<<
Hi Bernie,
As I seem to recall, you sent a message to Van's (that passed by me) last
week asking about the banquet. Did they ever respond to you? Just trying
to do some customer service QC here...
Have a great day,
~Jeremy
** >>
Hi Jeremy,
Yes and no. Scott wrote back and said he would check on it and get back, but
he never did.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
From the "for what it's worth department," I was told by my brother ( an
RV-4 builder) that the Deluxe Cessna Towbar (A/C Spruce p/n
13-01540---$36.00) would fit perfectly over the 9/16th bolts on Van's
tailwheels. So I bought one. He was absolutely right!!! It sure has
taken the work out of moving my Three around in the hangar. My back is
also very happy!! Fits fine and I suspect it will out last me!
Enjoy,
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
> Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
Yes. You want to have two independent sets of gyros, each with its own power
source, so that a single failure won't wipe 'em all out. That's why
conventional arrangements have an electric turn coordinator and the other
gyros are vacuum. You can lose either system and still have enough information
to control the airplane. Note that electric pitot heat is part of that design,
too -- lose electrics, you lose the turn coordinator and possibly the
airspeed. Lose vacuum, and you can still fly partial panel.
I would not (and did not) go all electric.
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 for sale
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Noise cancelling headsets |
Some time ago I purchased a Headsets, Inc. noise cancelling kit for my
Peltors. Works great, but I am getting tired of replacing 9 volt batteries
(I'm not always so good at remembering to turn it off ) and that little
battery box is forever getting in the way. The company told me it would be
toast if connected directly to my electrical system due to fluctuations of
some sort and that I should purchase a devise from them which would prevent
this. However, this devise costs an additional $75 which makes the total
investment more than I wish to spend on my old headsets. I'm hoping that
such a devise is really quite simple and inexpensive to build myself. Any
words of wisdom from the list?
Ivan Haecker rv-4 550hrs. p.s. noise cancelling is heaven on earth!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eletric Gyros |
>
>> Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
>
>Yes. You want to have two independent sets of gyros, each with its own power
>source, so that a single failure won't wipe 'em all out. That's why
>conventional arrangements have an electric turn coordinator and the other
>gyros are vacuum. You can lose either system and still have enough
information
>to control the airplane. Note that electric pitot heat is part of that
design,
>too -- lose electrics, you lose the turn coordinator and possibly the
>airspeed. Lose vacuum, and you can still fly partial panel.
>
>I would not (and did not) go all electric.
>
Given the dismal history of certified aircraft electrical
systems, pilots are justified in their distrust of airplanes
all-electric.
As designers and builders of the best aircraft ever, we're
free to look into modern alternatives for hardware and architecture
of electrical systems. It's now possible to install alternators
with exemplarly track records in real airplanes. Further, it's
also possible to install dual alternators and dual batteries with
a lower total system weight than most of our certified brothers
are lugging around.
Flight system reliabilty far exceeding the capabilites of
a brand new Cessna's alternator/battery/vacuum pump combination
is a piece of cake . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< jurasic park of aviation. >
< The source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
><< . Has anyone tied a spare alternator belt to the baffling and
> have it servive for any period of time. >>
>That is an old crop-duster trick to save time during the busy season, I was
>told. I fly a friends Glasair and it has two belts tied to the engine hoist
>point on top of the engine. I know they were there for the last 300 or so
>hours with no problem.
Why store a loose belt UNDER the cowl? I think the "spare belt
trick" was to have a second belt over the prop shaft and behind
the propeller secured in a way that would keep it out of the
way of moving parts. If the main belt broke, one could "replace"
it without having to pull the prop.
Use Gates belts and replace at first sign of fuzzies or cracking.
Like batteries, tires, cylinder rings, etc the key to reliable
operation is to monitor performance and replace BEFORE failure.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< jurasic park of aviation. >
< The source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IFR Garmin installation |
I wrote Garmin a note regarding installation and was not real happy with their
answer. Has anyone worked with a dealer and if so, how much did they charge?
----------------------------------------------------------------
Subj: GNS 430 Question
Date: 3/26/99 9:58:37 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: Kerrjb
I have heard a rumor that I can not do the installation of this unit in RV6
experimental airplane. Is this true.
TIA
Bernie Kerr
kerrjb(at)aol.com
-----------------------------------------------
Date: 3/27/99 11:59:56 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: Mike.Franke(at)garmin.com (Franke, Mike)
Bernie,
In the interest of safety and reliability all Garmin IFR equipment must be
purchased and installed by a qualified Garmin avionics dealer. Most of the
dealers will be willing to work with you so that you can stay personally
involved with the installation. Our avionics product support group will
answer any questions about the installation you may have but the
installation will have to be performed by the dealer.
Thank you and best Regards,
Mike Franke
Aviation Support Specialist
GARMIN International
1200 E. 151st Street
Olathe, KS 66062 USA
http://www.garmin.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
Derek
McMaster-Carr Hardware has stainless steel pan head screws machined
with silicone o-rings under the head:
8-32 x 1/2 #90825a816
10-32 x 1/2 #90825a916
phone# 562-692-5911
Wayne Bonesteel
Derek Reed wrote:
>
> What is really needed is fuel proof nut plates that have built
> >in "O"
> >rings to seal when the screw is tightened. They are expensive I am sure,
> >but I
> >am sure they would stop the leaks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drill press/bandsaw question |
I have a sears direct drive bandsaw I have used to saw most parts. I
have also bought a metal cutting bandssaw from Northern Hydraulics for
cutting angle and tubing. It was a cheep one but has been the best
investment so far. For the sears bandsaw you need a metal cutting blade.
There are many suppliers that will make a blade while you wait. Check
the yellow pages for people who sharpen blades. If you can't find one
check with a machine shop to see where they get their blades. Hope this
helps. Working on canopy and ready to mount wings on RV-4.
"Roy Filer [4438]" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> Sears has one of its tool sales on in my area. Last night I went to
> look at the bandsaws (not on sale :( and drillpresses. The salesman
> said that the bandsaws weren't very good for cutting metal because
> the filings just trash the plastic coating on the wheels used to
> transport the blade 'round.
>
> All the bandsaws I've seen in the lower price ranges seem to have this
> plastic coating on the drive wheels. Has shredded plastic on the drive
> wheels been a problem for anyone out there?
>
> He also said that Sears didn't sell any blades for metal cutting. Do
> most of you use the stock blade, or do you buy metal cutting blades
> somewhere else?
>
> Rory Filer - RV-6A (Stocking the shop)
>
> >
> >
> > I purchased to Sears non adjustable speed bandsaw and it works great. I
> > bought the adjustable speed bandsaw a couple of years later to cut steel
> > tubing for my Pitts. It's a piece of junk! Doesn't even cut aluminum well.
> > I'd be glad to sell it if anyone is interested!
> >
> > -Gene Gottschalk
> > RV6A, N700RV
> > Frederick, Maryland
> >
> > >
> > >I have the Craftsman variable speed bandsaw with a non-ferrous metal cutting
> > >blade and it works well on the aluminum speed setting. Wear eye protection
> > >of course, as it occasionally flings a chip skyward. The Sears drill press
> > >looks OK but also check Harbor Freight (see archives) as their $59 (on sale
> > >sometimes) inch drill press has served me well on the empennage.
> > >
> > >Good luck!
> > >
> > >Phil Smith
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
Hi Ross:
Some of my thoughts and ideas on installed inhibiting and pre oilers.
Assumeing the engine was properly inhibited and was stored upside down with
the cylinders well oiled before hanging, all I would do is keep the
dehydrator plugs in good shape and avoid turning the crankshaft until ready
to start it.
Then just before starting it preoil it. Remember preoiling does not
lubricate the cam lobes and lifters so cranking should be kept to a
minumum. With clean dry plugs and properly primed it should start in the
first three or four blades. As soon as there is an indication of oil
pressure go to 1000-1100 RPM to supply some sprayed oil to the cam lobes
and lifters as well as the wrist pins and cylinders.
A simple and inexpensive way to preoil is to install a suitable steel
fitting where the plug is above the left mag in the area of the oil cooler
fitting. Then with a new one or two gallon size clean garden type pump up
spray can connect to the fitting in the engine and run at least a quart of
warm oil into the engine then cap and safety wire and start the engine.
This fitting will now be available to preoil anytime in the future and will
require nothing more than the removal of the top cowling and connecting the
spray can.
It will take a bit of innovating to rig up the proper connections for the
pump up can and be sure to use a steel fitting in the back of the engine
and the proper one to accept a cap. A tip on rigging up the spray can,
either replace the hose from the can with another hose if you want to save
the spray nozzle then useing another piece of hose insert a piece of
aluminum tubing in the end with a flaired end and the correct nut to fit
your engine fitting. By saving the hose and spray nozzle you can use the
spray can to wash the engine down with varsol.
Ideally preoiling should be done anytime the engine has been idle for more
than thirty days .
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Skinning fueselage on the 6A
----------
> From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers
> Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 2:17 PM
>
>
> Eustace,
>
> I have been considering installing a Pre-Oiler and am now wondering if
this
> could be used as a 'longer term storage" aid for installed engines. I
have
> a Pegasus catalog ( http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ ) which shows a
> Heavy-Duty Electric Solenoid Activated Accusump in one, two and three
quart
> capacity for $230, $275 and $275. I see that they work by storing
pressure
> during engine operation. This might make it unsuitable for preserving an
> installed engine unless it could be charged with an air compressor. Do
you
> or anyone else know about this system?
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6A - Finishing kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
>
> >It has been suggested that preoiling can be done through the steel
fitting
> >that your oil pressure line connects to but in a lot of installations
this
> >fitting can not be removed after the engine is installed and because it
has
> >a restriction in it makes it almost impossable to get any voume of oil
> >through it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
I plan on getting an engine around 1 1/2 to 2 years in advance so the
tips that Eustace has been posting on engine storage have really been of
interest to me. I was pondering the thought of placing the engine on a
tire and rotating occassionally to circulate the oil and had an idea. I
am considering modifying a car engine stand to hold the lycoming.
Possibly mounting the lyc on the engine mount and mounting the engine
mount to a flat steel plate that would be attached to the engine stand.
This would make rotating the engine very simple and lessen the
possiblity of damaging the engine.
Has anyone built something like this??
A big thanks to Eustace Bowhay for his tips!!!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise cancelling headsets |
baremetl wrote:
>
>
> Some time ago I purchased a Headsets, Inc. noise cancelling kit for my
> Peltors. Works great, but I am getting tired of replacing 9 volt batteries
> (I'm not always so good at remembering to turn it off ) and that little
> battery box is forever getting in the way. The company told me it would be
> toast if connected directly to my electrical system due to fluctuations of
> some sort and that I should purchase a devise from them which would prevent
> this. However, this devise costs an additional $75 which makes the total
> investment more than I wish to spend on my old headsets. I'm hoping that
> such a devise is really quite simple and inexpensive to build myself. Any
> words of wisdom from the list?
> Ivan Haecker rv-4 550hrs. p.s. noise cancelling is heaven on earth!
piece of cake.
LM7809 3-terminal positive regulator or equivilant from any electronics
supply house. Input (12 V bus in plane), ground, and 9 volt output (the
09 in 7809) to the head set. Ask for the to220 package. It's a plastic
square about 3/8"X3/8"X1/8" thick with a metal tab for mounting & heat
sinking. Mount in the smallest aluminum box you're comfortable working
in & this will supply the heat sink. The box should cost more than the
regulator.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Please forgive me for asking such an elementary question, but I can't
remember how to decipher the mnemonic ARROW, which is intended to remind
us what documentation must be aboard an aircraft during flight. I got
this far, but I'm guessing at the O:
Airworthiness certificate
Registration
R ???
Operating handbook (?)
Weight and balance records
FAR Part 91.302 only prescribes the first two of these documents. Would
someone kindly help out a brain-dead old man with the missing elements?
Many thanks and best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
In a message dated 3/27/99 4:16:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ebowhay(at)shuswap.net writes:
<< It will take a bit of innovating to rig up the proper connections for the
pump up can and be sure to use a steel fitting in the back of the engine
and the proper one to accept a cap. >>
Eustace,
Why do you say use a steel fitting here? My brand new Lycoming has aluminum AN
fitting on the engine. Van's told me they were going to retract their
statement to only use steel fittings on the engine.
TIA,
Bernie Kerr, 6A engne and panel, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
"John B. Abell" wrote:
>
>
> Please forgive me for asking such an elementary question, but I can't
> remember how to decipher the mnemonic ARROW, which is intended to remind
> us what documentation must be aboard an aircraft during flight. I got
> this far, but I'm guessing at the O:
>
> Airworthiness certificate
> Registration
> R ???
> Operating handbook (?)
> Weight and balance records
>
> FAR Part 91.302 only prescribes the first two of these documents. Would
> someone kindly help out a brain-dead old man with the missing elements?
>
> Many thanks and best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
>
>
Used to be Radio station license but they are not needed anymore.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Storing engine |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> I plan on getting an engine around 1 1/2 to 2 years in advance so the
> tips that Eustace has been posting on engine storage have really been of
> interest to me. I was pondering the thought of placing the engine on a
> tire and rotating occassionally to circulate the oil and had an idea. I
> am considering modifying a car engine stand to hold the lycoming.
> Possibly mounting the lyc on the engine mount and mounting the engine
> mount to a flat steel plate that would be attached to the engine stand.
> This would make rotating the engine very simple and lessen the
> possiblity of damaging the engine.
>
> Has anyone built something like this??
>
> A big thanks to Eustace Bowhay for his tips!!!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings
How about a plywood disc, diameter slightly larger than engine width,
bolted to the prop flange & one bolted to the motor mount. Think lazy;
it makes you efficient.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New RV-6 Panel (Best Yet) Web page support for matt |
Listers
I have updated my page in support of Matt, I now sport the NO JPI Logo, and
it will stay until this is resolved. I have a new RV6 Panel on my page that
everyone needs to see. It's the best one yet.I have a new page dedicated to
RV's I have done, It's under the photos page Check it out!!!.
The Panel Pilot.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rd Gibbs" <richgibb(at)mcn.net> |
Jack
It used to be Radio Station License, but that is no longer required.
----------
From: John B. Abell <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-List: ARROW
Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 1:25 AM
Please forgive me for asking such an elementary question, but I can't
remember how to decipher the mnemonic ARROW, which is intended to remind
us what documentation must be aboard an aircraft during flight. I got
this far, but I'm guessing at the O:
Airworthiness certificate
Registration
R ???
Operating handbook (?)
Weight and balance records
FAR Part 91.302 only prescribes the first two of these documents. Would
someone kindly help out a brain-dead old man with the missing elements?
Many thanks and best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Storing engine |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank leak |
Hi Andy:
This is what I did when I built my RV6.
Carefully cleaned the area on the tank that the cork gasket rests on and
the cover plate. I like to use Alumaprep and submerge the cover for
cleaning. I used the cork gasket dry as supplied and installed with the
screws as called out in the drawings.
Then layed a narrow bead of proseal around the edge say 3/8 wide half on
the cover and half on the tank and small amount around each screw. That was
in 1991 and haven't had leak. The other thing I liked it didn't cost
anything.
By keeping the bead around the cover narrow it is not to hard to remove and
the same on the screws if one ever has to take the covers of.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----------
> From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: fuel tank leak
> Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 6:46 AM
>
>
> I have a fuel odor in my cockpit which I've traced to a leak on the
> access door at the root of the left tank.
>
> The tank is now sealed with a cork gasket which certainly needs to be
> replaced. Is this method still considered the recomended way to do this?
> Is there another material that may be superior? Are there different
> grades of cork used for this application?
>
> Thnaks for any help you can give.
>
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
In a message dated 3/27/99 12:36:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebowhay(at)shuswap.net writes:
<<
Ideally preoiling should be done anytime the engine has been idle for more
than thirty days .
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Skinning fueselage on the 6A
---------- >>
Somebody suggested that I use an air blow gun with a 18 in copper tube
extention. Put it down the dipstick tube into the oil, give it a shot of air.
You could probably blow lots of oil up on the cam and followers...... and
perhaps up the dipstick tube too, so use a rag to shield yourself. F
LaForge RV-4 So Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net |
by mailhost.ind.ameritech.net (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124)
with SMTP id" <19990327225629.BVLR19793@oemcomputer>
| Subject: | Re: Storing engine |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> I plan on getting an engine around 1 1/2 to 2 years in advance so the
> tips that Eustace has been posting on engine storage have really been of
> interest to me. I was pondering the thought of placing the engine on a
> tire and rotating occassionally to circulate the oil and had an idea. I
> am considering modifying a car engine stand to hold the lycoming.
> Possibly mounting the lyc on the engine mount and mounting the engine
> mount to a flat steel plate that would be attached to the engine stand.
> This would make rotating the engine very simple and lessen the
> possiblity of damaging the engine.
>
> Has anyone built something like this??
>
> A big thanks to Eustace Bowhay for his tips!!!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
Jerry,
I modified an auto engine stand by using flat stock extenders to fit a
Cessna engine mount. Mine didn't rotate because I braced the bottom
support to the stand base. However it would have been easy to do so.
Keep in mind my stand was home built and was larger than stands I see
for sale, so watch the cg. I turned the engine upside down before
mounting it and removed it a couple of times during the four years it
was stored. This was a suggestion from the A&P that built it for my
Cessna, also filling the cylinders with oil followed by draining from
the bottom plug.
Gary Reynolds RV6A, wiring,plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
Hi Berry:
For the preoiler fitting I am sure that an aluminum fitting would be fine
because there is nothing hooked to it during flight. But over the years I
have seen some problems, maybe the aluminum fittings are stronger now I
don't know. I am sure the steel fittings are stronger and that is what I
have used and gives me the peice of mind.
On the other hand even steel will fail under the right circumstances. Had a
friend once install a sending unit directly into the back of the engine
instead of coming off with flex hose and then to the sending unit. The
weight of the sending unit plus the weight of the hose attached to it
coupled with the viberation broke it of in flight over 10000 foot mountains
pumped all the oil out resulting in a forced landing in a swamp totaling
the aircraft. Fortunetly he was able to walk away from it.
Eustace
----------
> From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers
> Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 1:48 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 3/27/99 4:16:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ebowhay(at)shuswap.net writes:
>
> << It will take a bit of innovating to rig up the proper connections for
the
> pump up can and be sure to use a steel fitting in the back of the engine
> and the proper one to accept a cap. >>
>
>
> Eustace,
>
> Why do you say use a steel fitting here? My brand new Lycoming has
aluminum AN
> fitting on the engine. Van's told me they were going to retract their
> statement to only use steel fittings on the engine.
>
> TIA,
> Bernie Kerr, 6A engne and panel, SE Fla
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Storing engine |
Hi Jerry:
Just an excellent idea. Safe and very handy for us lazy guys who say "You
know I should rotate that engine tomorrow" and it does't get done till next
fall.
The big plus it would get rotated on a regular basis.
Eustace
----------
> From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Storing engine
> Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 1:16 PM
>
>
> I plan on getting an engine around 1 1/2 to 2 years in advance so the
> tips that Eustace has been posting on engine storage have really been of
> interest to me. I was pondering the thought of placing the engine on a
> tire and rotating occassionally to circulate the oil and had an idea. I
> am considering modifying a car engine stand to hold the lycoming.
> Possibly mounting the lyc on the engine mount and mounting the engine
> mount to a flat steel plate that would be attached to the engine stand.
> This would make rotating the engine very simple and lessen the
> possiblity of damaging the engine.
>
> Has anyone built something like this??
>
> A big thanks to Eustace Bowhay for his tips!!!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Storing Lycoming's way |
Hello List,
There has been much discussion lately on preserving engines. I have
posted this before but it has not been mentioned in the latest round of
discussion.
I called Lycoming last November about perserving my new O-320. Tech
help told me to fill the engine completely full with new, clean
automotive motor oil. Fill from the breater fitting. Then seal the
exhaust ports with homemade plates and fill the cylinders through the
top plugs.
I have hung my engine on my RV-6 so I can fit everything to it. This
makes rotating the engine upsidedown impractical. What I did was lift
the tailwheel to the garage ceiling so the nose was pointed way down.
Then filled the engine full of oil. Lots of oil. The cam has to be
submerged because the rear of the engine was the high point.
The only problem I have is #1 cyl is on the intake and that intake is
not sealed. I will spray oil into the cyclinder through the bottom plug
but have not done it yet. It is near TDC so I don't think my
procrastination is too detremental.
Eustace Bowhay said not to use automotive oil in case you forget its in
there. After filling the engine with so much oil, I couldn't forget
that experience if I wanted to.
Of course Lycoming said the oil is drained thoruoghly and then filled
with aircraft oil before running.
P.S. DO NOT order long term storage with the engine if you plan on
hanging the engine.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 coming together in central FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Storing Lycoming's way |
Listers,
I like Rick's idea for long term engine storage the best. I used to do
exactly what he has proposed many times with auto and motorcycle
engines. It isn't hard to eliminate problems of oil not being retained
in one or more cylinders with an open valve.
Remove the valve cover of the cylinder(s) with open valves. Rotate the
engine so that the open valve(s) are now closed. Remove the rocker arm
for that valve(s). Rotate the engine back to it's original position.
Reinstall the valve cover(s). All the engine's valves are now closed.
Fill the engine completely with oil.
This has the added bonus of minimizing the chance of valve spring
"sacking" while stored. (The weakening of a valve spring's tension). Be
sure to install a red tag on the appropriate cylinder(s).This is to
remind yourself to drain the oil and reinstall the removed rocker arm(s)
before use.
I also like to install plastic ( a baggie) secured with rubber bands to
the carb inlet and all exhaust pipes ( if installed). This helps keep
moisture out of the intake and exhaust tracts. Some people use tennis
balls in the exhaust pipes. I've lived in humid regions my whole life.
In Buffalo, N.Y. you can only use your motorcycle about 5 months a year.
I learned really quick what works and what doesn't.
Charlie Kuss
RV8 working on fuel tank skeletons
Boca Raton, Fl.
If more is better, too much is just enough! :-)
snipped
> I called Lycoming last November about perserving my new O-320. Tech
> help told me to fill the engine completely full with new, clean
> automotive motor oil. Fill from the breater fitting. Then seal the
> exhaust ports with homemade plates and fill the cylinders through the
> top plugs.
>
> I have hung my engine on my RV-6 so I can fit everything to it. This
> makes rotating the engine upsidedown impractical. What I did was lift
> the tailwheel to the garage ceiling so the nose was pointed way down.
> Then filled the engine full of oil. Lots of oil. The cam has to be
> submerged because the rear of the engine was the high point.
>
> The only problem I have is #1 cyl is on the intake and that intake is
> not sealed. I will spray oil into the cyclinder through the bottom plug
> but have not done it yet. It is near TDC so I don't think my
> procrastination is too detremental.
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 coming together in central FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
As an RV-List subscriber, I have watched with interest as the recent JPI issue
has taken its course. I support the RV-List, and Matt Dralle has my respect
and thanks for providing builders like me with a ready source of information.
Seeing the completion in sight for my own RV-8, it was time for me to make
some decisions on avionics. After some thought, On March 11, 1999, I decided
to write JPI a letter on my own corporate letterhead, reflecting my views. The
letter, a copy of which is attached below, was sent via US Mail on March 11th.
The result of my letter was March 13th fax to me from JPI, which in fact was
a copy of my own letter with JPI's hand written comments on the bottom.
(repeated below in quotes)
"Dear Mr. Ross:
You Loose, by not having the best equipment in your plane - our country is one
of laws, not pub opinion!"
Original letter:
<>
A final thought:
Now I will admit that my letter was somewhat less than nice, but I was quite
surprised by the arrogance of the hard nosed reply that I received. My only
conclusion must be: To hell with JPI.
Jon Ross RV-80094
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 vs Midget |
I believe a lot of the issues with Stalling the MI/MII Mustangs were
centered around plans built aircraft. Mustang Aeronautics the latest company
to hold the rights to the MI/MII provides full kits with preformed leading
edges. This is why RV's are so popular. They are consistent in behavior for
the most part because much of the compact bending has been handled at the
factory. If you have an MI/MII in kit form you are going to have a more
predictable stall Vs. a plans built model.
Although you cant do much about the width of the MI you can opt for a bubble
canopy which will give you better visibility and a bit more head room.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com>
Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>
>Brad-
>
>I purchased the plans for the M-1, and after talking with some people about
>flight characteristics, cockpit room, etc., and seeing both the M-1 and
>RV-3, I went with the RV-3.
>
>Some of my reasoning behind going with the -3:
>- If I remember correctly, the M-1 has about a 20-21" wide cockpit vs. the
>RV-3's 24" wide cockpit. it mad a big difference for me being about 215
and
>broad shouldered.
>
>- The M-1 has a laminar flow airfoil that if not true to it's shape or you
>have inconsistencies in the bend of the leading edge, you can get some
"wild
>rides" and different flying characteristics between bird-to-bird. I know
of
>a M-2 owner that has some slight inconsistencies in his leading edge (same
>airfoil as the M-1 I believe) and has some straight-ass nasty stall
>tendencies in the thing. The pilot who flew the thing back for the owner
>from the east coast was turning base-to-final and had the aircraft start to
>go into a spin on him! Needless to say, he doesn't care for the craft at
>all?!? I think that you will find the -3 an easier airplane to fly and
>especially land!
>
>There are some advantages to the M-1 though, that include: higher cruise
>speeds on less HP, no bad history of wing departures, smaller airframes for
>smaller engines=less fuel, etc., etc.
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45
>Socorro, NM
>505-835-3644
>
>
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
FN:Steven B Janicki
ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
TITLE:Sr. Director
TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:http://www.oracle.com
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19990328T015142Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jon,
Thank you for posting JPI's response to your letter. I am still awaiting
their response to my (2) letters, FAX and email.
While I expected a somewhat negative response, their response to your
very professional letter is INCREDIBLE!
This response should be made available to aviation media.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: JRoss10612(at)aol.com <JRoss10612(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: JPI issue
Incredible! They seem to be digging themselves a VERY deep hole. Any
reasonable business person would either respond in an apologetic business
like tone, or not respond at all. What could they possibly gain by
responding in that manner?
I must admit that I had earlier felt that some of the posts regarding the
JPI situation were a bit heavy handed. Apparently not so. It is clear now
that their intention was to intimidate Matt into withdrawing his use of the
FuelScan name. This seems to have backfired on a scale which they could not
have imagined, and has obviously done irreparable harm to their business.
Good.
David Lundquist
dlundquist(at)worldnet.att.net
RV-6 Wings,
Long Island NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR Garmin installation |
We did not have the Garmin Installed but the Apollo GX50 and it was a shock
when we got the estimate. 1 King Nav Com & the Apollo $5500.00 - becasue it
was IFR certified - And the best - Only non precision approaches -
Hope it helped
BSivori(at)Aol.Com
N929RV (Reserved )
N15035 Seneca 1
Wing's Closed.
________________________________________________________________________________
RADIO LIC - NOT REQUIRED ANY MORE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Updated "Boycott JPI" page |
Listers,
I just got back from a business trip (ah, Florida in the spingtime), and
discovered JPI's latest pronouncements on their web site. I've
updated my
web site to expose the nonsense in this latest bit of JPI cranial
rectalitis. It's at http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html .
I welcome your ideas for improving the page.
Don't forget, downloadable flyers are at the bottom of the page. I
passed out 40 at this week's EAA meeting.
---------- text of new section on my web site: -----------------------
Update
27 March 1999
JPI apparently realized their web page was a transparent pack of lies,
and
they removed it from their server. Around 24 March they posted a new
web
page attacking Matronics. (If they move or remove this page like they did
their earlier one, click here for a copy I kept.) I must say that this
second web page is a much better public relations product. The lies are
much more subtle, the "JPI is the injured party" tone is much reduced, and
they even included some sections that are true (although irrelevant).
JPI's tools in this new web page are:
1. Lies (that's their favorite tool from the last page)
2. Unfounded assertions
3. True (but irrelevant) statements/paragraphs (intended, no doubt, to
convince the reader that JPI's position regarding Matronics is
legitimate). 4. Blaming the victim 5. Blaming others for JPI's own
choice/actions 6. Playing the victim (when JPI is in fact the aggressor)
What follows is text from JPI's web page, with analysis and comments.
"Dear Mr. Dralle,"
"I am disappointed that you chose to publicize our letter to you of
February 5, 1999. It changes a situation from one that could have been
easily resolved by the parties to a public dispute in which personal egos
can be perceived to be at stake. We hope that such a situation can be
avoided."
(Later, JPI continues this theme) "...Our letter of February 5, 1999 was
just a letter, not a formal pleading initiating a lawsuit. As stated in
the letter, legal action was not going to be sought until February 19,
1999. Our letter offered to answer any questions that you had about our
letter and asked you to respect our client's intellectual property rights.
You chose instead to make the matter public on the Internet."
This is tactic number 4, "Blame The Victim." JPI threatens a baseless law
suit, then gets upset when their threats are made public. Note that
Matronics has not posted any attacks against JPI. Matronics has not made
any assertions about JPI. Matronics simply made JPI's threats public (via
email, not a web post), and let the aviation community act as each
individual thought appropriate.
"I have received several emails and faxes from individuals that have been
misinformed regarding the nature of our letter and the trademark rights of
J.P. Instruments for SCANNER, SMART SCANNER and DIGISCAN. Since you
have chosen not to respond to my to my recent telephone calls, I will
assume that you harbor the same misconceptions and will respond
accordingly."
No, they weren't "misinformed." They saw that JPI's position was
baseless, JPI's threats were anti-aviation, and JPI's lies (on the earlier
web page) were blatant and transparent. People sent JPI emails and faxes
to let JPI know they had been found out. JPI is employing tactic #6,
"Playing the Victim."
"Since you have chosen not to respond to our telephone calls, we
have now filed suit against you and Matronics for trademark
infringement and false designation of origin."
Tactic 5 "Blaming others for one's own actions."
"...However J.P. Instruments can and will prevent other manufacturers from
using SCANNER, SMART SCANNER, DIGISCAN or any other confusingly similar
mark, such as FUELSCAN, as a trademark for their aircraft parts."
It's preposterous to call FuelScan "confusingly similar" to Scanner, Smart
Scanner, or Digiscan. FuelScan is a fuel monitor system, while Scanner,
Smart Scanner, and Digiscan are all registered trademarks for engine
temperature measurement systems. (See
http://trademarks.uspto.gov/access/search-mark.html for a description of
each of JPI's trademarks.) Here JPI employs tactic #2, "Baseless
Assertion"
"An appropriate analogy is that people are free to use the word
"shell" when referring to seafood and "apple" when referring to fruit.
However, a manufacturer or retailer cannot use SHELL for its brand of
gasoline or APPLE for its brand of computers because these trademarks are
obviously previously established by Shell Oil and Apple Computers, Inc. A
search of federal and state trademark databases shows that no other
aircraft parts manufacturer has registered SCANNER or any derivative of
SCAN as a trademark for its goods."
JPI owns the right to the word SCANNER for engine temperature
measurement, and nobody disputes that. Matronics is not using the
word SCANNER. Matronics is using the word FuelScan, and JPI
doesn't own the rights to it. Neither does JPI own rights to the word
SCAN. Tactic #3, "True (but irrelevant) paragraph."
"J.P. Instruments has spent considerable time and money building
goodwill in the SCANNER family of marks including winning a
trademark opposition proceeding before the Trademark Trail and
Appeal Board ("TTAB") against Electronics International, Inc.
Electronics International, Inc. had originally filed an application for
the trademark SMART SCANNER. The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office rejected
the application. Electronics International, Inc. then filed an opposition
to J.P. Instruments' application for SCANNER. Electronics International,
Inc. alleged that SCANNER was a generic term that was not protectable as a
trademark. Several members of the aviation industry testified on behalf of
J.P. Instruments and its trademark rights, including competitors.
The TTAB ruled that SCANNER is not a generic term for engine
temperature indicators and that the SCANNER trademark had
acquired distinctiveness and goodwill amongst consumers such that
consumers identify products with the SCANNER mark with a single
source, J.P. Instruments. Electronics International, Inc.'s suit was
dismissed and it stopped using the trademarks "ULTIMATE SCANNER" and "
SMART SCANNER " shortly thereafter."
Probably true, but irrelevant. Tactic #3 again.
"Another common mistake among faxes and emails that we have
received is that J.P. Instrument's product just indicates engine
temperature and that your product indicates fuel flow and
consumption. J.P. Instruments produces products under the
SCANNER family of marks that provide engine temperature, fuel
flow and fuel consumption data. Thus, J.P. Instruments and Matronics
produce identical products that are identified by trademarks that have
"SCAN" as the dominant feature. This makes confusion likely, if not
inevitable."
JPI's products are NOT identical to Matronics' products. Tactic #1,
"Lies." Furthermore, it is absurd to claim that any pilot would
somehow "confuse" JPI's cost-a-fortune, EGT/CHT-graphs-galore
systems, or their cost-a-fortune does-nothing-but-measure-temps
system with Matronic's fuel management system. (I suspect any pilot
who would "confuse" JPI's product for Matronics' product would also
"confuse" the ground with the sky, and eliminate himself from the
marketplace in short order.)
"Your public campaign against J.P. Instruments has not helped to
alleviate this very real problem. For several days, our phone lines, fax
machines and email were bombarded by prank calls, obscene and distasteful
letters, and generally confused individuals who are unaware of the
valuable trademark rights at stake."
JPI seems to believe that anyone who disagrees with JPI's position is
"generally confused." I'm certainly not confused enough to believe their
lies, nor are hundreds of people who are now boycotting JPI.
"In total, J.P. Instruments' sales and operations were disrupted for a
number of days thereby forcing us to file suit against you and your
company."
Oh look, there's our old friend, Tactic #5, "Blaming Others for Your
Choices." JPI is just absurd. Just a few paragraphs ago JPI said they
filed suit because Matt didn't call them back. Now they say they're filing
suit because people expressed their opinions to JPI. It sounds to me like
Joe Polizzotto (JPI's owner) needs to grow up and take responsibility for
his own behavior. A good therapist could assist in this endeavor. One
positive note: we now know that our messages to JPI were received loud and
clear.
"J.P. Instruments would like sport aviation consumers to know that
J.P. Instruments is committed to supplying them with the best quality
products and giving the best service we can offer. To do this, our
reputation, goodwill and trademark rights must be protected through the
vigorous enforcement of our rights. Our action against you and Matronics
is in conformity with this policy and the protection of the products and
rights we worked so hard to develop and bring to the marketplace."
Rubbish. JPI is destroying their reputation and goodwill by vigorously
lying in front of an audience of thousands (especially obvious in thier
previous web page), and by attacking Matt Dralle, a strong, generous
supporter of sport aviaiton.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 vs Midget |
Steve,
I appreciate your response to the concerns of mine in regards to the M1 and
RV3. I am considering trading my Chard RV 6 for a 3 or M1 plus cash to make
up the difference. I have two people interested, each with one or the
other.
Your welcome to look at my webpage were my 6 is .
http://www.infowest.com/personal/b/bundyb/
thanks for your help
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>
>
>I believe a lot of the issues with Stalling the MI/MII Mustangs were
>centered around plans built aircraft. Mustang Aeronautics the latest
company
>to hold the rights to the MI/MII provides full kits with preformed leading
>edges. This is why RV's are so popular. They are consistent in behavior for
>the most part because much of the compact bending has been handled at the
>factory. If you have an MI/MII in kit form you are going to have a more
>predictable stall Vs. a plans built model.
>
>Although you cant do much about the width of the MI you can opt for a
bubble
>canopy which will give you better visibility and a bit more head room.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 1:40 PM
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>
>
>>
>>Brad-
>>
>>I purchased the plans for the M-1, and after talking with some people
about
>>flight characteristics, cockpit room, etc., and seeing both the M-1 and
>>RV-3, I went with the RV-3.
>>
>>Some of my reasoning behind going with the -3:
>>- If I remember correctly, the M-1 has about a 20-21" wide cockpit vs. the
>>RV-3's 24" wide cockpit. it mad a big difference for me being about 215
>and
>>broad shouldered.
>>
>>- The M-1 has a laminar flow airfoil that if not true to it's shape or you
>>have inconsistencies in the bend of the leading edge, you can get some
>"wild
>>rides" and different flying characteristics between bird-to-bird. I know
>of
>>a M-2 owner that has some slight inconsistencies in his leading edge (same
>>airfoil as the M-1 I believe) and has some straight-ass nasty stall
>>tendencies in the thing. The pilot who flew the thing back for the owner
>>from the east coast was turning base-to-final and had the aircraft start
to
>>go into a spin on him! Needless to say, he doesn't care for the craft at
>>all?!? I think that you will find the -3 an easier airplane to fly and
>>especially land!
>>
>>There are some advantages to the M-1 though, that include: higher cruise
>>speeds on less HP, no bad history of wing departures, smaller airframes
for
>>smaller engines=less fuel, etc., etc.
>>
>>Rob Reece
>>RV-3 SN45
>>Socorro, NM
>>505-835-3644
>>
>>
>
> name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
> filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
>
>BEGIN:VCARD
>VERSION:2.1
>N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
>FN:Steven B Janicki
>ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
>TITLE:Sr. Director
>TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
>TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
>ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
>Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>REV:19990328T015142Z
>END:VCARD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 03/27/1999 4:53:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
<< Airworthiness certificate
> Registration
> R ???
> Operating handbook (?)
> Weight and balance records
>
> FAR Part 91.302 only prescribes the first two of these documents. Would
> someone kindly help out a brain-dead old man with the missing elements?
>
> Many thanks and best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
>
>
Used to be Radio station license but they are not needed anymore.
>>
Actually, a Radio Station License and a Radio Operators License are required
if you are going out of the country. but right, not in the USA.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
I know the subject has been debated at length according to the archive,
but I just want to know if some of you have used the following:
Central Pneumatic, 2HP, 6.5 Gal, Oil lubricated (quieter?), 3 SCFM @
90PSI, 3.4 @70. Freight Harbor has it for 129$ this week. The only
purpose for which I'll use it will be for riveting (I think I'll pick up
a 3X gun, I have the Orndorff's video, and they use a 2X. It has a rapid
fire machinegun sound that I don't like too much. At work, the folks use
3X, and it's a bit slower to the ear, which I like better... which one
eats more air???) The priming will be done with cans (preloaded), and
for the tooling I got most of it electrical and/or cordless. The main
reason I tend toward it, it's because it's the smallest oil lubricated
compressor I've found. All the others that were 'small' were oil less,
thus very noisy. For my current situation, less noise is strongly
desirable.
Thanks.
Rich,
-6A Empennage 'soon to be ordered'
currently building the 'factory'
98208
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
In reality, your rivet guns will not use much air. You can drive a lot of
rivets between compressor cycles. Air drills & grinders are what keeps the
compressor running.
L.Adamson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Storing Lycoming's way |
>P.S. DO NOT order long term storage with the engine if you plan on
>hanging the engine.
Does anyone know exactly what you get when you pay the $200 for long
term storage?
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (jigging fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
>
>Please forgive me for asking such an elementary question, but I can't
>remember how to decipher the mnemonic ARROW, which is intended to remind
>us what documentation must be aboard an aircraft during flight. I got
>this far, but I'm guessing at the O:
>
> Airworthiness certificate
> Registration
> R ???
> Operating handbook (?)
> Weight and balance records
I learned the second R as Radio station license, no longer required for US
domestic flights. The O is for Operating limitations, which may include
placards, the operations manual, or a combination of both, depending on
what was specified at the time of certification.
A more lively discussion is likely to erupt by asking about the mnemonic
CIGARTIPS. Ask ten pilots, get eleven answers.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 vs Midget |
Brad, I have seen your RV-6 and can appreciate your situation. I think the
decision is not too difficult. If you like your RV-6 then chances are the
RV-3 will make you feel at home as it is part of the RV family and thus
shares similar flight characteristics. You will need to make certain the
wing mod has been completed or compensated for $ allowing you to handle the
mod. On the other hand if you want something different then you could opt
for the MI. However, if the M1 is plans built then you have to be careful
about the quality of the construction and the date it was built, mods, etc.
Both have support so you can obtain pre formed parts for repairs, updates,
etc. However, there is only 1 RV-List with the best builder support
available!
I had a -6 which I had to sell for financial reasons. I miss the plane. I am
building a -4 as I am comfortable with the RV family but want the inline
seating configuration Vs. the -6 side by side. Similar to the Pitts I have
been flying.
Good luck with your decision. I have been there and I am certain others have
as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bundy <bundyb(at)infowest.com>
Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>
>Steve,
>I appreciate your response to the concerns of mine in regards to the M1
and
>RV3. I am considering trading my Chard RV 6 for a 3 or M1 plus cash to
make
>up the difference. I have two people interested, each with one or the
>other.
>Your welcome to look at my webpage were my 6 is .
>http://www.infowest.com/personal/b/bundyb/
>thanks for your help
>Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, March 27, 1999 8:06 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>
>
>>
>>
>>I believe a lot of the issues with Stalling the MI/MII Mustangs were
>>centered around plans built aircraft. Mustang Aeronautics the latest
>company
>>to hold the rights to the MI/MII provides full kits with preformed
leading
>>edges. This is why RV's are so popular. They are consistent in behavior
for
>>the most part because much of the compact bending has been handled at the
>>factory. If you have an MI/MII in kit form you are going to have a more
>>predictable stall Vs. a plans built model.
>>
>>Although you cant do much about the width of the MI you can opt for a
>bubble
>>canopy which will give you better visibility and a bit more head room.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 1:40 PM
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV3 vs Midget
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Brad-
>>>
>>>I purchased the plans for the M-1, and after talking with some people
>about
>>>flight characteristics, cockpit room, etc., and seeing both the M-1 and
>>>RV-3, I went with the RV-3.
>>>
>>>Some of my reasoning behind going with the -3:
>>>- If I remember correctly, the M-1 has about a 20-21" wide cockpit vs.
the
>>>RV-3's 24" wide cockpit. it mad a big difference for me being about 215
>>and
>>>broad shouldered.
>>>
>>>- The M-1 has a laminar flow airfoil that if not true to it's shape or
you
>>>have inconsistencies in the bend of the leading edge, you can get some
>>"wild
>>>rides" and different flying characteristics between bird-to-bird. I know
>>of
>>>a M-2 owner that has some slight inconsistencies in his leading edge
(same
>>>airfoil as the M-1 I believe) and has some straight-ass nasty stall
>>>tendencies in the thing. The pilot who flew the thing back for the owner
>>>from the east coast was turning base-to-final and had the aircraft start
>to
>>>go into a spin on him! Needless to say, he doesn't care for the craft at
>>>all?!? I think that you will find the -3 an easier airplane to fly and
>>>especially land!
>>>
>>>There are some advantages to the M-1 though, that include: higher cruise
>>>speeds on less HP, no bad history of wing departures, smaller airframes
>for
>>>smaller engines=less fuel, etc., etc.
>>>
>>>Rob Reece
>>>RV-3 SN45
>>>Socorro, NM
>>>505-835-3644
>>>
>>>
>>
>> name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
>> filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
>>
>>BEGIN:VCARD
>>VERSION:2.1
>>N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
>>FN:Steven B Janicki
>>ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
>>TITLE:Sr. Director
>>TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
>>TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
>>ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
>>Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
>>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>>URL:http://www.oracle.com
>>EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>>EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>>REV:19990328T015142Z
>>END:VCARD
>>
>>
>
>
name="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
filename="Steven B Janicki.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Janicki;Steven;B;Mr.
FN:Steven B Janicki
ORG:Oracle Corporation;Data Center
TITLE:Sr. Director
TEL;WORK;VOICE:650-506-2740
TEL;WORK;FAX:650-633-2165
ADR;WORK:;4op4;500 Oracle Pkwy;Redwood Shores;CA;94065;USA
Pkwy=3D0D=3D0ARedwood Shores, CA 94065=3D0D=3D0AUSA
URL:http://www.oracle.com
URL:http://www.oracle.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
EMAIL;INTERNET:sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
REV:19990328T070858Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Prop Controls on Panel |
Listers:
I am on my final version of the panel layout for an RV4. After looking at many
RV4s I have found none that have mounted the throttle, prop and or mixture
controls directly on the panel. I intend to do this using Cessna style friction
controls and vernier controls for the prop rpm. Would appreciate hearing from
anyone that has done this instead of the throttle quadrants typically used.
Also would like to hear from anyone who has a strong objection or reasoning for
keeping the quadrant style controls. Rear seat controls is the only logical
reason for positioning quadrant controls on the side of the cockpit.
Thanks for replies.
Dave Aronson, RV4 finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
ARROW
Airworthyness certificate
Radio License
Registration
Operating limitations
Weight and balance information
Dave Aronson, RV4 finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Storing Lycoming's way |
>Does anyone know exactly what you get when you pay the $200 for long
>term storage?
I've posted messages about this in the past in hopes of saving some people
from
making the mistake I did. I bought the long term storage option thinking it
was
for the preservative oil and dessicant plugs. NOT SO. Preservative oil is in
there
regardless, and they don't give you dessicant plugs with or without the
long term
storage option.
What you do get is the engine packed in a vacum sealed bag, and expando-foam
filling the space between the bag and the outside of the box. That's it.
Since I
immediately hung my engine when I got it, the hissing sound I heard when I
made the
first knife cut in the bag was $200 going out the window.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's LAST MISTAKE |
><< E.I. was sued by JPI for the use of scanner in there Smart Scanner, and
> Ultimate Scanner products. >>
>
>If this is so, IMO it is our solemn duty to bring JPI down hard.
From reading their "open letter", I'm not sure this is true. It looks like
EI tried to get a
TM on their SMART SCANNER and it was rejected. They then filed an appeal
against
JPI's application for the use of SCANNER. JPI in turn filed against EI and
won. That's
what their letter says anyway, although I now take everything JPI says with
a grain
of salt.
But in fact, if this were what we were debating I wouldn't be writing
letters about it. Both
of those instruments are engine temperature monitoring gauges and they both
had the
word SCANNER in the name. I would agree that that's the kind of thing the
trademark
laws are there for.
But of course we aren't talking about similar products in this case, or even
two cases
of the word SCANNER being used in the name. JPI seems to think that since
both
instruments are made to be used in airplanes, they will be somehow be
confused. Makes
me wonder just how dumb JPI thinks aircraft owners are!
In their "open letter" they also now seem to have decided that they have a
SCANNER line
that includes all of their products, I guess to imply that the word SCANNER
covers their
their one engine temp monitoring gauge that has fuel flow as an option. That
doesn't track
with any of their literature that I've seen, or with their original
"response" which both only
mention the word SCANNER in relation to the one original engine temp.
moitoring gauge.
Plus their trademark record just says under "Goods and Services" ENGINE
TEMPERATURE
INDICATORS". Nothing about fuel. I think they're grasping at staws here,
frankly.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (instruments/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric gyros - AI & DG |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> >Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
>
> I can't think of any. I have an all electric gyro panel in my RV-4. I am
> happy with it. Backup electrical power is easier to come by than backup
> pneumatic power IMHO.
>
> >I figure the same but vacuum and with a vacuum system would cost about
> >$1500 and be more work and less weight. It would be easier with electrics
> >to have a removable section.
>
> That is true.
>
I would like to use all electric gyros, for the reasons you mention, but
I would also like to put in an autopilot with HEADING SELECT, and I have
not been able to locate an electric DG with an autopilot pickup without
going to an electric HSI at a cost of $6K or more. Does anyone know if
there is electric equivalent of the the 52d54 gyro (I think this is a
relatively inexpensive vacuum gyro for use with Century autopilots).
I'm actually leaning toward the lower-priced STEC models, so I would
love to locate an electric DG that would work with STEC autopilots.
STEC has a vacuum DG with autopilot output for about $1500.
Anyone know what differences, if any exist between the autopilot outputs
(from DGs) for Century and STEC?
Blake Harral
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys,
I just mailed in for the Radio "Ship" Lic. It is not a FAA form, but an FCC
form which can be obtained via Fax on demand, The fee is $85.00 and its good
for 10 years.
If you are going out of the country it is a must, or as per the FRG FSDO your
aircraft
could be impounded.<<<<<<< NO A GOOD THING >>>>>>
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: B&S Eckstein [mailto:eckstein@net-link.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 1999 10:05 PM
Paul, I am interested in doing business with Mod Works too. Were they
honest to deal with? Does the engine need an overhaul at 1300 hours?
Thanks
Brian Eckstein
eckstein@net-link.net
----------
From: Paul Imhof [mailto:paul_imhof(at)dell.com]
All: MOD Works seems to be reasonable to deal with. I pushed really hard to
get them to "Guarantee" the case and crank to be Serviceable. They wouldn't
put "Guarantee" in their invoice. After much discussion they put:
IF CASE OR CRANK IS FOUND TO BE UNREPAIRABLE, MOD WORKS WILL REPLACE WITH
NEXT AVAILABLE ENGINE."
This statement leaves A LOT to be interpreted: UNREPAIRABLE?... by who's
standards; The FAA? AND How long would they honor UNREPAIRABLE... 2 months?
5 years? AFTER subsequent overhauls? etc. I talked with David. He said in
the 6 years he's been working there he has only had to take one engine back.
Even though this statement is open-end, UNREPAIRABLE means unserviceable by
FAA guidelines and probably within 1 year of original sale. The first thing
I'll have an overhaul shop do is check the case and crank.
I thought I remember him saying they sell about 30+ engines a year. I only
know of one other RVer who purchased an engine from them and they are happy
too.
Here's all the info on the engine I purchased:
Lycoming IO-360A1B6D sn: L-17428-51A. It has no prop. strike, no engine log
entry of lap or line-bore (assume it never needed it) in the past two major
overhauls. Compression is very high and even on all cyl.s. Tested on Friday
3/26 as follows: cyl. #1 - 79, cyl. #2 -79, cyl. #3 - 79, cyl. #4 - 76
It has 1382 SMO and TT of 3803. It is very well maintained with detailed
log entries. It came off a '77 Mooney M20-J (N201MG) from MOD Works. The
plain flew in (good sign of a working engine) a few weeks ago to MOD Works
and the engine is being removed on Monday 3/29/99. COST: $7500
BTW: The typical cost for this type of engine from MOD Works is $9500. They
lowered the price 2k to sell it fast.
Wednesday morning 3/24 I called to put on a list for an IO-360 engine.
They told me of an engine that was just recently came in(last few days).
They told me that they didn't have time to call the list of people and
asked if I would be interested. By 5pm I had purchased this engine. I don't
think I would have paid the extra 2k (normal price $9500). Lesson: Do your
research up front. Know exactly what you want and what you are willing
to pay. When a good thing comes a long, be prepared to act quickly.
As far as does the engine need to be overhauled. NO. but if you are
familiar with Lycoming engines, just because it's rated for 2000 hours
doesn't mean you can expect 2000 hours out of an engine. This engine was
very well maintained. There's no reason why I couldn't put it on my RV-8
right now. Heck I could even do head overhaul. I want the engine to be in
tip top shape. I want to know every thing about this engine. Nothing less
than a complete overhaul will do. The airframe will be, why not the engine?
Thanks
Paul Imhof
RV-8 #80024 - QB
On gear, tail on, working on rear seat and floor.
>
>
> Just purchased an IO-360A1B6D from MOD Works and I'm now looking to have
> this "Mid" time (1300 SMO) engine overhauled.
>
> I was wonder if any of the RV-List listeners have (or are going to have)
> Darus Zehrbach from Light Power Engine (LPE) Corp. ceramic coat their
> engine's exhaust stack and valve faces? I'm also considering electronic
> ignition and electronic fuel injection from LPE. I don't know a thing
about
> him or his company. Very curious: If someone has some first-hand
experiences
> please pass them on.
>
> Also, Darus (LPE) uses T.W. Smith as their overhaul shop. Any good/bad
> experiences with T.W.?
>
> Thanks
> Paul Imhof
> RV-8 #80024 - QB
> On gear, tail on, working on rear seat and floor.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise cancelling headsets |
Thanks for the product review.
This has been in my mind for a long time.
I found info at http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/headsets/index.html
Thing is though, I saw that the power adapter in their literature was
$59.00.
Of course it is much too much to pay for just a power adapter
but others charge $75.00 for a headset to handheld adapter.
I have a cousin that is an electrical and software engineer he now runs
a software development department that works with GPS for autos. When he
was flight testing his Challenger II we had found some problems.
It came to hooking up his handheld com radio to his head set. It wasn't
the lack of money but rather his field of experience that made it
compulsitory to just solider the "patch cord" together.
I was the ground grunt. He was making his taxiing practices. I was
monitoring the radio work on a ham radio. I could tell that his signal
was very weak and had much more noise in the background.
When he came back, we started troubleshooting. That is my field. After
the swap and switch routine, it became evident that it narrowed down to
the standard plug used for the mike input. What was happening was the
input jack has contacts for both leads for the input but also it has a
second function. That is a contact that disconnects the mike in the main
body of the handheld. What was happening was that both mikes were
working. You could hear him talking at half, or so, volume and you could
hear cabin noise, Challenger II has lots including air.
He purchased the adapter patch cord and all was well. I have never
compared the actual standard plug to the patch cord plug, but all it
needed to be was a tiny bit longer to push the contact open.
I'm not advocating spending the unheard of prices by any means. I really
don't thing they use a non-standard plug for those. I have made mike
adapters for ham radios to work with computers and those same connectors
that were used. I guess with anything, we should always perform tests
every time we build something. His radio for all practical purposes
didn't work. I was listening on the ground where it was quiet. If I were
flying, I would tune my ears to the ambient level of radio noise, give
or take a little bit. His transmissions were too low to be heard in that
situation.
Bill Jaugilas
baremetl wrote:
>
>
> Some time ago I purchased a Headsets, Inc. noise cancelling kit for my
> Peltors. Works great, but I am getting tired of replacing 9 volt batteries
> (I'm not always so good at remembering to turn it off ) and that little
> battery box is forever getting in the way. The company told me it would be
> toast if connected directly to my electrical system due to fluctuations of
> some sort and that I should purchase a devise from them which would prevent
> this. However, this devise costs an additional $75 which makes the total
> investment more than I wish to spend on my old headsets. I'm hoping that
> such a devise is really quite simple and inexpensive to build myself. Any
> words of wisdom from the list?
> Ivan Haecker rv-4 550hrs. p.s. noise cancelling is heaven on earth!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ARROW Radio License Form |
Unless you leave US borders, ie Canada or May Hee Ko (Mexico), the radio
license is not required. If you plan to fly outside US airspace, file
form 404 from the FCC. It is available in pdf form from the FCC at:
http://www.fcc.gov/formpage.html
Scott A. Littfin
BSivori(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> RADIO LIC - NOT REQUIRED ANY MORE
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Prop Controls on Panel |
David Aronson wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I am on my final version of the panel layout for an RV4. After looking at many
> RV4s I have found none that have mounted the throttle, prop and or mixture
> controls directly on the panel. I intend to do this using Cessna style friction
> controls and vernier controls for the prop rpm. Would appreciate hearing from
> anyone that has done this instead of the throttle quadrants typically used.
> Also would like to hear from anyone who has a strong objection or reasoning for
> keeping the quadrant style controls. Rear seat controls is the only logical
> reason for positioning quadrant controls on the side of the cockpit.
>
> Thanks for replies.
>
> Dave Aronson, RV4 finish
1. panel real estate is limited, even with a vfr panel.
2. personal preference for fighter cockpit like throttle position.
3. if you use a vernier for the throttle & do any formation flying, you
will hate it.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | 9 volt regulator |
************Oops!***********
baremetl wrote:
>
>
> Some time ago I purchased a Headsets, Inc. noise cancelling kit for my
> Peltors. Works great, but I am getting tired of replacing 9 volt batteries
> (I'm not always so good at remembering to turn it off ) and that little
> battery box is forever getting in the way. The company told me it would be
> toast if connected directly to my electrical system due to fluctuations of
> some sort and that I should purchase a devise from them which would prevent
> this. However, this devise costs an additional $75 which makes the total
> investment more than I wish to spend on my old headsets. I'm hoping that
> such a devise is really quite simple and inexpensive to build myself. Any
> words of wisdom from the list?
> Ivan Haecker rv-4 550hrs. p.s. noise cancelling is heaven on earth!
piece of cake.
LM7809 3-terminal positive regulator or equivilant from any electronics
supply house. Input (12 V bus in plane), ground, and 9 volt output (the
09 in 7809) to the head set. Ask for the to220 package. It's a plastic
square about 3/8"X3/8"X1/8" thick with a metal tab for mounting & heat
sinking. Mount in the smallest aluminum box you're comfortable working
in & this will supply the heat sink. The box should cost more than the
regulator.
Charlie
I "misspoke" myself.
The # should be either 7809 or LM340-9. It's been a long time, & I got 2
different manufacturer's numbering systems mixed up. My apologies.
http://www.digikey.com/B.DKS$214877175H751660
Above link will take you to one.
Also, Radio Shack at one time sold a cigar lighter adaptor with
selectable outputs down to around 3 volts.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric gyros - AI & DG |
-----Original Message-----
From: Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, March 28, 1999 2:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric gyros - AI & DG
>
>I would like to use all electric gyros, for the reasons you mention, but
>I would also like to put in an autopilot with HEADING SELECT, and I have
>not been able to locate an electric DG with an autopilot pickup without
>going to an electric HSI at a cost of $6K or more
Century Instruments can supply you with a rebuilt DG with heading bug.
Several of the avionics houses quoted me a rebuilt DG with heading bug along
with the S-Tec AP at much below the S-Tec price. I finally went with a Nav
Aid Devices AP.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Teledyne Continental Parts Books/Price list |
Listers,
Does anyone know where I could obtain a Continental Parts price list and
possibly parts books for their 4 & 6 cyl. piston engines? An online
source would be ideal. I need to cross-reference the part numbers of
engine overhaul parts I've aquired to their useage. TIA
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 leading edges/fuel tanks
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated "Boycott JPI" page |
I used to have a link to JPI on my web site.
I now have a link to Tim's excellent "Boycott JPI" page instead.
http://www.duford.com/aviation.htm
Sylvain Duford
RV-8 #80047
>
> Listers,
>
> I just got back from a business trip (ah, Florida in the spingtime), and
> discovered JPI's latest pronouncements on their web site. I've
> updated my
> web site to expose the nonsense in this latest bit of JPI cranial
> rectalitis. It's at http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html .
>
> I welcome your ideas for improving the page.
>
> Don't forget, downloadable flyers are at the bottom of the page. I
> passed out 40 at this week's EAA meeting.
>
> _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
> Tim Lewis
> N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
> Springfield VA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 9 volt regulator |
>The # should be either 7809 or LM340-9. It's been a long time, & I got 2
>different manufacturer's numbering systems mixed up. My apologies.
>
>http://www.digikey.com/B.DKS$214877175H751660
>
>Above link will take you to one.
>
>Also, Radio Shack at one time sold a cigar lighter adaptor with
>selectable outputs down to around 3 volts.
>
>Charlie
The 7800 series regulators used to have an 8v version
but these are not obsolete parts and rapidly disappearing
from catalogs and distributor shelves. The 340 series
devices are only available in 5, 12, 15v parts.
The LM317 is an adjustable version of the 340 series devices.
It requires two resistors to set the output for the
desired voltage. In the case of a 9v regulator, a 120
ohm resistor from OUT to ADJ pins and a 750 ohm resistor
from ADJ to system ground will produce the desired voltage.
For improvment in noise reduction and regulation dynamics,
I use small bypass capacitors at the input and output terminals
to ground.
Our DIM5-14 dimmer can be ordered as a fixed voltage
regulator. This device uses the LM317 and the appropriate
combination of resistors and capacitors on an etched circuit
board with 9 pin d-sub connector for wiring. You can see
a picture of it on our website.
Also, the article I did on solid state dimming in Sport
Aviation is a good baseline for building small stepdown
voltage regulators for those who would like to roll-their-
own.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< jurasic park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dgates <dgates(at)techie.com> |
| Subject: | Thorpe T-18 VS RV flying qualities |
Hi!
Have any of the RV folks out there flown both a Thorpe T-18 and the RV series aircraft?
I'm seeking opinions on the two aircrafts' relitive performance, and
more importantly, flying
qualities.
I got a ride in a T-18 yesterday, what a blast! I found, admittedly based on limited
time in either the T-18 OR the RV aircraft, that the flying charecteristics
were quite similar,
they are both a lot of fun to fly. The T-18 is slower, not a lot though. The
roll rate was similar, and with two people aboard this particular T-18, with a
O320 with high compression
LyCon pistons (about 180hp) and a fixed pitch prop I was seeing 1500 fpm climbs
and 170 mph cruise. Not bad! We did both power on and power off stall series,
the T-18 stall was abrupt
with little or no buffet. I understand from hanger flying that some Thorp foks
put stall strips on inboard of the wings to give more stall warning though, this
airplane did not have
them. The stall break was straight ahead though, with little tendancy to drop
a wing.
Certainly NO comparison to my current (flying) plane, a Cessna 150!
Don Gates
Tailwheel transition training in process.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)mindspring.com> |
I'm getting landing gear shimmy, during taxi and during landing rollout, on
pavement.
The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during landing
rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there is
no shimmy.
The gear legs have the wooden/wrapped fiberglas stiffeners, as per the
plans. However, after reading the archives, now I'm paranoid about
corrosion. (maybe it's just me, but every time I read these postings I seem
to come away with more to worry about :-( )
The tires are McCreary, with a good, even wear pattern. (Perhaps higher
quality tires might help)
The only suggestion I got from Vans was to try no more than 25psi. I did
that, and besides the fact that the tires looked awfully flat, I got only
VERY slight improvement in reducing shimmy.
Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-)
These RV's sure are nice to fly, but this gear leg shimmy is a bunch of
crap. The designer certainly can't be proud of this quirk.
Sluggo Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Randy Compton wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting landing gear shimmy, during taxi and during landing rollout, on
> pavement.
>
> The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during landing
> rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
> with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there is
> no shimmy.
>
> The gear legs have the wooden/wrapped fiberglas stiffeners, as per the
> plans. However, after reading the archives, now I'm paranoid about
> corrosion. (maybe it's just me, but every time I read these postings I seem
> to come away with more to worry about :-( )
>
> The tires are McCreary, with a good, even wear pattern. (Perhaps higher
> quality tires might help)
>
> The only suggestion I got from Vans was to try no more than 25psi. I did
> that, and besides the fact that the tires looked awfully flat, I got only
> VERY slight improvement in reducing shimmy.
>
> Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
> good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
> it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-)
>
> These RV's sure are nice to fly, but this gear leg shimmy is a bunch of
> crap. The designer certainly can't be proud of this quirk.
>
> Sluggo Compton
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
Sometimes you guys just blow me away with your remarks.
My guess when you built the airplane you put the gear
on crooked.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
<< Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-) >>
Sluggo,
Some people have had some success by balancing their wheel pants.
This sounds a little strange but I have talked to a couple of people who swear
it works. I believe they add lead to the front of the pant on the inside until
its in balance fore and aft. You might also try several different air
pressures on your tires until you find the one that works best. The other
option is to try a new set of tires. If they are wearing evenly it sounds like
the legs must be drilled properly.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | rivet squeeze (sizes) question |
rookie here again. i need someone to e mail me or list with some
guidelines for rivet dies. i am about to attach the hs flange bars and
brackets. rivets used are 470 4's. i ordered from avery the 6 piece
squeeze set and not sure what dies i use. also, do i use a flush for the
un cuped side of rivet??? any and all help greatly appreciated here.
thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thorpe T-18 VS RV flying qualities |
-----Original Message-----
From: dgates <dgates(at)techie.com>
Date: Sunday, March 28, 1999 12:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Thorpe T-18 VS RV flying qualities
>
>Hi!
>Have any of the RV folks out there flown both a Thorpe T-18 and the RV
series aircraft? I'm seeking opinions on the two aircrafts' relitive
performance, and more importantly, flying
>qualities.
>
I did have the opportunity to fly a T18. They do fly a lot like the RV at
higher air speeds and performance is pretty close with comparable engine and
prop. The big difference is in slow flight and landing. The T18 has a
higher stall speed and the controls become quite ineffective below 80 mph.
The RV on the other hand has full control authority right down to it's 50mph
(depends on model) stall. Directional control during roll out is much
easier in the RV due to it's wider gear and larger rudder. The T18 is a
great airplane but an older design.
Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM 1,350hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: rivet squeeze (sizes) question |
>
>rookie here again. i need someone to e mail me or list with some
>guidelines for rivet dies. i am about to attach the hs flange bars and
>brackets. rivets used are 470 4's. i ordered from avery the 6 piece
>squeeze set and not sure what dies i use. also, do i use a flush for the
>un cuped side of rivet??? any and all help greatly appreciated here.
>thanx, bob paulovich in arkansas
>
>
If you look carefully on the side of the dies I think you'll see a
size designation such as -4. You use the rounded die for the factory
head and the flush or flat die for the shop head. The factory head is
the rounded end and the 'shop' head is the side you form when you
squeeze or drive the rivet.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rivet squeeze (sizes) question |
Bob---
The "4" refers to 4/32" or 1/8". The correct die will have 1/8 470 on the
side.
Same with a "3", or 3/32". Your correct, the flat die will be used for the
unfinished side of the rivet.
L.Adamson RV6A Fuselage out of jig (top side work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | squeezer die question |
i see on each die an470 and a size, i.e., 3/32, 1/8, and so forth. what
do i use for 470 4's??? thanx again, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: squeezer die question |
>
>i see on each die an470 and a size, i.e., 3/32, 1/8, and so forth. what
>do i use for 470 4's??? thanx again, bob
>
The 470 4's are 4/32" rivets or 1/8". Use the 1/8 for the 470 4's
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: squeezer die question |
In a message dated 3/28/99 2:52:48 PM Mountain Standard Time,
jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< i see on each die an470 and a size, i.e., 3/32, 1/8, and so forth. what
do i use for 470 4's??? thanx again, bob
>>
Use the 1/8 (4/32) for a 470 4.
3/32 for a 470 3
Universal (cupped rivets) are 470's. Flush (countersunk or dimpled) rivets
are the 426's. Once you memorize all of this----- keep working on the
project. Quit six months like I did, & you might forget a bunch.
L.Adamson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's LAST MISTAKE |
In a message dated 3/28/99 12:47:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< But in fact, if this were what we were debating I wouldn't be writing
letters about it. Both
of those instruments are engine temperature monitoring gauges and they both
had the
word SCANNER in the name. I would agree that that's the kind of thing the
trademark
laws are there for.
But of course we aren't talking about similar products in this case, or even
two cases
of the word SCANNER being used in the name. >>
This is baloney! What if it were a toaster? That's what scanners do...scan.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet squeeze (sizes) question |
Just to add to this thread...
First, practise on some scrap. The -4 rivets take a fair amount of
muscle power to squeeze (mostly I prefer to drive them), and it's hard
to not bend the tail end.
Secondly, don't rely on Van's rivet length callouts in the plans. In
many cases, they're too short. Check the length with a gauge before
squeezing/driving.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Plastic Brake Lines & Bleeding Problems |
I just wanted to pass along my experience from my brake system to the list.
I put my brake system together as per the plans, but when I went to bleed
the system it seemed to take more pressure than I expected. The rubber
line I used kept blowing off the bleeder screw and before I finally got the
brakes bled, I had fluid all over.
After I finished, I noticed air bubbles appeared in the one of my plastic
lines, so I assumed the fitting at the master cylinder was leaking...and it
was slightly. I checked it and it was tight. I have worked with
compression fittings before, but not on plastic lines. I knew I would need
a new fitting but did not want to order them because the shipping would
cost more than the fittings. I went to Home Depot and found 1/4"
compression fittings for plastic lines and bought some, although the brass
insert was about twice the diameter as the ones that came in my kit. I
figured it was worth the chance. I took the leaking fitting off and the
brass insert fell out. I put the new fitting on and the new insert (twice
the diameter), which fit perfect, and re installed it. When I went to
bleed the system it did not take much pressure at all and I no longer had
the leak. It worked so well that I changed the one on the other line also.
Now I no longer have the leaks and the pressure to bleed the system is
very small.
I had called Van's when I was having the problem bleeding and Tom said I
must of hooked up my parking brake valve wrong.
The moral of this long story is...if you are having any problems or your
inserts for your lines seem too small, buy new ones with the proper inserts.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Brake Lines & Bleeding Problems |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
Date: Sunday, March 28, 1999 5:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Plastic Brake Lines & Bleeding Problems
>
>I just wanted to pass along my experience from my brake system to the list.
> I put my brake system together as per the plans, but when I went to bleed
>the system it seemed to take more pressure than I expected. The rubber
>line I used kept blowing off the bleeder screw and before I finally got the
>brakes bled, I had fluid all over.
>I went to Home Depot and found 1/4"
>compression fittings for plastic lines and bought some, although the brass
>insert was about twice the diameter as the ones that came in my kit. I
>figured it was worth the chance.
I took the leaking fitting off and the
>brass insert fell out. I put the new fitting on and the new insert (twice
>the diameter), which fit perfect, and re installed it. When I went to
>bleed the system it did not take much pressure at all and I no longer had
>the leak. It worked so well that I changed the one on the other line also.
> Now I no longer have the leaks and the pressure to bleed the system is
>very small.
>I had called Van's when I was having the problem bleeding and Tom said I
>must of hooked up my parking brake valve wrong.
>The moral of this long story is...if you are having any problems or your
>inserts for your lines seem too small, buy new ones with the proper
inserts.
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
>(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
I noted about two months ago that my brass inserts were very loose in my
plastic lines and I had heard that they were very difficult to insert,
requiring heating of the line to get them in. I sent a fax to Van's asking
what was wrong -- I sent a second fax two days later. Called on fourth day
after no response and Tom Green told me they had not had the "small insert"
problem for about 5 years and that I must have a very old kit. My kit was
about 12 months old. Anyway, the problem was not that the inserts were too
small, but that the line supplied was the wrong kind. A couple of weeks
later I got some replacement line (after two more telephone calls). The
inserts were indeed a tight fit into the correct brake line.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by TTACS.TTU.EDU
| From: | "Charles R. Chandler" <ylcrc(at)ttacs.ttu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Randy Compton wrote:
>The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during landing
>rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
>with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there is
>no shimmy.
My RV-3 does the exact same thing when tires are fully inflated. So I keep
them underinflated and that eliminates the shimmy. When I have too much air
in them, I taxi very slowly and brake when the shimmy starts upon landing.
Not an ideal situation but I live with it. If anybody else has a solution,
other than putting the gear on straight in the first place, I'd like to hear it.
Chuck
RV-3 N893FS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Team Rocket Hats |
Hey there Rocket men!
Team Rocket now has hats with the Team Rocket emblem embroidered on it. Be a
part of the Team. Hats are $12 (plus S+H). To order, just send your request,
your return address, and money to:
Team Rocket, Inc.
2731 S.E. Tailwinds Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33478
Thanks!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Team Rocket....movie stars?? |
Hey Rocket men!!
The Team Rocket video will begin filming in one week. This is Mark and Scott's
film debut...so wish us luck!! Whats next....Hollywood?? Not!! Anyway, we
expect that these videos will be completed in about a months time. They will
be available in VHS and CD.
Thanks!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Team Rocket....movie stars?? |
Is a rocket still considered an rv hybrid, or it's own "thing"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Prop Controls on Panel |
David Aronson wrote:
After looking at many RV4s I have found none that have mounted the throttle,
prop and or mixture controls....using Cessna style friction controls and
vernier controls for the prop rpm... instead of the throttle quadrants
typically used.
Also would like to hear from anyone who has a strong objection or reasoning
for keeping the quadrant style controls.
I have seen some airplanes that use vernier controls for prop and mixture,
while having a Quadrant-style throttle. My memory is not the greatest, but
I think both the Extra 300 and Pitts S2B are so configured. This will
allow precise prop & mixture control, while allowing more convenient (in my
opinion) throttle operation.
The quadrant-style throttle is the way to go, IMHO. If you rest your hand
edge-down on the quadrant, as if you were trying to remove it from the
mount with a karate chop, you can adjust the throttle with thumb and index
finger by rocking your hand. Your arm is supported, reducing fatigue and
allowing precise throttle movement. Works great for formation flying. I
have never flown formation with a knob-style throttle, but I would think
that having to move your whole arm fore and aft instead of just flexing
your wrist would get real old real fast.
Don't plan to fly formation? Well, never say never. With proper training
and practice, it is great fun. But I degress. I would think the one of
the advantages of building your own airplane is the opportunity for making
it ergonomically correct, so it fits YOU, not Joe Average Pilot. Proper
placement of controls has a significant effect of comfort and fatigue.
Tim
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | crossover exhaust |
Hi,
Can someone explain the purpose of crossing over the exhaust system on
an RV-6?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
This was a common problem on the RV-3. It caused cracks in the gear/engine
mount and was fixed by the newer 6-point gear, or gussets/additional tube on
the mount.
I talked once about this problem with Jim Ayers, and he said that the
problem was easily resolvable by balancing the wheelpants with lead
shot/epoxy.
You may want to contact him at for more specifics on
solving your problem.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Four New Email Lists Now Available! |
Dear Listers,
I have added four new Email Lists to the existing Lists currently sponsored
by Matronics. These include Lists for the Yak, VariEZ/LongEZ, Lancair, and
Glasair. Existing Lists include the RV, Zenith, Kolb, and HR Rocket Lists.
The new Lists will be run in the same spirit as the existing Email Lists
available on the Matronics server including the high-speed web-based archive
searching and browsing capabilities as well as the respective List web
site. As always, access and subscription to the new Lists is completely
free of charge. Generous contributions are, however, always appreciated...
;-)
To subscribe to any of the new lists, please refer to the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
For more information on any of the Lists sponsored by Matronics, please
refer to the following URL, and select the particular List of interest:
http://www.matronics.com/other.html
Thank you for all of your generous support over the years!
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle/Prop Controls on Panel |
In a message dated 3/28/99 7:20:18 PM Mountain Standard Time,
IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com writes:
snipped
<< The quadrant-style throttle is the way to go, IMHO. If you rest your hand
edge-down on the quadrant, as if you were trying to remove it from the
mount with a karate chop, you can adjust the throttle with thumb and index
finger by rocking your hand. Your arm is supported, reducing fatigue and
allowing precise throttle movement. Works great for formation flying. I
have never flown formation with a knob-style throttle, but I would think
that having to move your whole arm fore and aft instead of just flexing
your wrist would get real old real fast.
>>
I'm still trying to figure out a descent way to install a Piper quadrant in
my 6A. I've sat in it twice & find the quadrant could be in the way of my
knees & control stick. Not enough room between the seats, & I don't want it to
far forward. I'm still exploring options & will think of something. I'm just
to used to Piper's & can't stand Cessna type push-pull knobs. Would still
like a left hand throttle also.
L.Adamson --- top side of 6A fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
>
>I'm getting landing gear shimmy, during taxi and during landing rollout, on
>pavement.
>
I have a -6 with factory drilled engine mount and gear with the same
problem. I took someones bad advise and did not use the wood on the gear
legs, and the gear does tend to shake a lot. I have checked the gear
alignment and it looks good. I do agree that the gear geometry leaves a lot
to be desired. Fo instance if you watch how the gear deflects with weight
you will notice that weight changes change the toe in/out. If the gear is
unevenly loaded (as in a bounce) it tends to steer the aircraft. One could
also imagine that this would tend to cause a gear leg oscillation.
Just maybe I'll balance the pants though.
Dan Morris Rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
"Daniel H. Morris" wrote:
>
>
> >
> >I'm getting landing gear shimmy, during taxi and during landing rollout, on
> >pavement.
> >
>
> I have a -6 with factory drilled engine mount and gear with the same
> problem. I took someones bad advise and did not use the wood on the gear
> legs, and the gear does tend to shake a lot. I have checked the gear
> alignment and it looks good. I do agree that the gear geometry leaves a lot
> to be desired. Fo instance if you watch how the gear deflects with weight
> you will notice that weight changes change the toe in/out. If the gear is
> unevenly loaded (as in a bounce) it tends to steer the aircraft. One could
> also imagine that this would tend to cause a gear leg oscillation.
>
> Just maybe I'll balance the pants though.
>
> Dan Morris Rv6
>
Dan are you still not using the wood? If not I would take the time
to redo them and put it on. I have been there and done that it makes
a totally different airplane on the ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
Just wanted to notify the list that a third RV-8 on our field here at
Independence, Oregon made its first flight yesterday. N88CV, built mostly
by Greg Robl was flown by Jim Oveross and all went well. We have two
additional RV-8's moving along (quickbuilds) here, as well as more in the
planning stage. Seems like RV-8 fever is makin the rounds here!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Charles R. Chandler wrote:
>
>
> Randy Compton wrote:
> >The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during landing
> >rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
> >with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there is
> >no shimmy.
Hi Randy
A friend of mine had a continuing wheel shimmey problem with his Cessna
182, tried everything to no avail until he discovered that the wheel
itself was out of round (split rim wheel and both halves were out of
round).
I had my Cessna 182 wheels balanced at a motorcycle shop and that helped
somewhat.
George McNutt, Langley B.C
6A. Starting to skin fusealage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: crossover exhaust |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Can someone explain the purpose of crossing over the exhaust system on
> an RV-6?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
It's for "tuning" the exaust to some degree. Or more like "interference
reduction" between the exaust pulses.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dgates <dgates(at)techie.com> |
| Subject: | AvWeb's "AVflash" covers JPI vs Matronics! |
FLASH! Just got this weeks AvFlash email list mailing, AvWeb is covering the
JPI thing.
See
http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news9913.html#3
for AvWeb's coverage of the JPI vs Matronics issue!
I feel this is GREAT news! This will widen the awareness of JPI's predatory
actions to the *entire" aviation community, or at least a large part of it. I
don't know what AvWeb's circulation is, but I'm confident that it's in the 100K
range.
Don Gates
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Recently, I noticed that it was a little hard to push my 1026 pound
RV-6 across a smooth hangar floor. I checked the tire pressure and
found that between 20 and 22 psi were in the tires after previous
airing some time ago. To make the plane easier to push out of the
hangar (and to taxi on grass runways occasionally) I put around
40 - 45 psi in the tires and went flying. Big mistake! On the landing
roll out the gear legs (and wheel pants) began to vibrate so violently,
the tower advised me of the condition. (Like I couldn't tell?) I applied
braking to attenuate the vibrating landing gear until I was slowed to
taxi speed (where the vibrating stopped). I taxied to my hangar and
bled the tire pressure down to the 30 - 32 psi range and went flying
again. The problem just went away! It is plain and simply a small
matter of proper tire pressure!
Another thing to consider is balancing the wheel pants by epoxying
some B-B shot in the nose of the pants. If you pick up the pants
by two fingers at the axle points, you will notice the tail end is the
heavy end. Pour some B-Bs in a small sandwich bag and tape the bag
to the nose end of the pants. Pick up the pants by the axle points
again and check the balance. Adjust the contents of the sandwich
bag until you have almost enough B-Bs to balance the pants. Thoroughly
clean the inside nose area of the pants with solvent to remove that
waxy stuff on the surface, and then use a course sandpaper to roughen
the area for better adhesion of fibreglas resin. Now, stand the pants
on their noses, mix up some epoxy resin, and paint the resin inside
the nose of the pants, pour in the B-Bs and fill with resin to cover
them. Let the pants stand on their nose until the epoxy hardens.
Neat, huh? Now, the wheel pants are balanced.
Note: The inner tubes in the tires are notoriously porous. It is
important that you check (and air up) your tires at least once a
month. Or, if your airplane is hard to push. Whichever comes first.
Your mileage may vary. Fly to eat, eat to fly!
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << If anybody else has a solution,
> other than putting the gear on straight in the first place, I'd like to hear
> it. >>
Marshall "every flight is a flying lesson" Dues
RV-6 N243MD
199.4 hrs
DWH airport (NW Houston area)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
<< I have a -6 with factory drilled engine mount and gear with the same
problem. I took someones bad advise and did not use the wood on the gear
legs, and the gear does tend to shake a lot. >>
I dont know if I would consider it bad advise. It takes quite a few extra
hours of work to install the stiffeners. I decided that I would fly mine
first without and install later if needed. I am happy with that decision as I
did not need them. I do sometimes get a slight shimmy at around 15mph but
thats about it. I simply avoid that speed for taxi.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
My -4 didn't have a shimmy problem until I put new tires on it last month. Now,
as I get to a fast taxi speed and start braking, it starts shimmying. I think
I put the tire on wrong. (Didn't align the balance mark up with the tube).
I'll try fixing it when I would rather work on it, than fly it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-1/HR2 differences |
<< Is a rocket still considered an rv hybrid, or it's own "thing"?
>>
Hmmmmmmm.....How about this: The F-1 is a stand alone kit, but the change-over
kit from John will let you construct a hybrid.
The F-1 has many changes from the HR2, so much so that we decided to give it a
different designation. Now, it is true that the two ship will LOOK similiar,
but the changes to the interior structure are significant. The F-1 is a
production ship, and thus cannot have any of the fit problems usually
associated with homebuilt aircraft kits.
This was the focus of most modifications applied to the ship during its re-
design.
I hope this helps!
Check six!
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Randy,
I found that a difference in tire air pressure made a big difference in
how the gear handled on concrete/tarmac. When my tires are pressurized
to 25-30 psi, the gear interaction with the concrete is just not
noticable. However, when I once pressured the tires to 55 psi the
gear/runway interaction was very noticable and unpleasant. There was
much more viberation transmitted to the fuselage, the main tires tended
to skip when they hit uneveness - which make braking interesting - and
the nose tire indicated a tendency to shimmy. Lower tire pressure tended
to eliminate those adverse effects.
Ed Anderson
Randy Compton wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting landing gear shimmy, during taxi and during landing rollout, on
> pavement.
>
> The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during landing
> rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
> with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there is
> no shimmy.
>
> The gear legs have the wooden/wrapped fiberglas stiffeners, as per the
> plans. However, after reading the archives, now I'm paranoid about
> corrosion. (maybe it's just me, but every time I read these postings I seem
> to come away with more to worry about :-( )
>
> The tires are McCreary, with a good, even wear pattern. (Perhaps higher
> quality tires might help)
>
> The only suggestion I got from Vans was to try no more than 25psi. I did
> that, and besides the fact that the tires looked awfully flat, I got only
> VERY slight improvement in reducing shimmy.
>
> Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
> good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
> it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-)
>
> These RV's sure are nice to fly, but this gear leg shimmy is a bunch of
> crap. The designer certainly can't be proud of this quirk.
>
> Sluggo Compton
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
In a message dated 3/28/99 2:50:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rdcompton(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
> good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
> it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-)
On my -6a, the first 100 hours were shimmy free, then I removed the tires
and reversed them on their respective wheels to promote even wear. Now during
roll-out when I slow below about 30 mph, the right wheel shimmys a little.
I've tried different air pressure's, etc. All it takes is a little brake
application and it quits. It isn't bothersome, and I realize it has to do with
the wear patterns on the tires, so I figure as long as it doesn't get any
worse, when I replace the tires it will probably go away.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | frivolous lawsuit |
Mr. Joseph Polizzotto:
I have followed from the beginning your attacks on Matronics, including
your recent rude and borderline illiterate responses to reasonable,
courteous letters complaining about your heavy handed tactics.
Be aware that neither I, nor any other pilot with an IQ above 50, could
possibly confuse the name 'Fuelscan' used to describe a fuel monitoring
system, with the word 'Scanner', used to describe an engine monitoring
system.
Trying to manipulate our legal system to expand your trademark rights
for an engine monitoring instrument AFTER you decide to add fuel
monitoring to it, AND trying to bully a one-man company with the excuse
that he uses 4 letters of the alphabet that you use is unforgivable.
I hope that the recent coverage by Avweb will result in total loss of
sales of your product. I will certainly not use any of your products in
the future, and will do my best to convince everyone I know through word
of mouth, local EAA chapter, etc. to avoid all your products in the
future.
I sincerely hope that your fate can serve as an example to future
potential bullies trying to abuse our legal system.
Charlie England
140 Highway 49 N
Jackson, MS 39209
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Thorpe T-18 VS RV flying qualities |
I've flown both. The RVs are lots roomier (this was an early Thorp, 38" wide),
and the ailerons were reasonably stiff. Granted, I flew this about 10 years
before I flew an RV, so this may not be totally accurate.
Ed Wischmeyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Another perspective:
I own a '92 RV-4 with almost 500 hrs tt. It has (as far as I know)
standard gear legs. It has no stiffeners on the legs, aluminum fairings,
& 1-pc pants. I try to keep my tire pressures near 50 lbs. If I am
negligent & allow pressures to fall below 30 lbs, the plane is hard to
push on the ramp, the side walls rub the pants, & it handles on the
ground like a '60s era land yacht. I have never had shimmy problems,
except on 'corrugated' surfaces which were obviously causing the shimmy.
I wish I could offer a solution, but I've never had to deal with the
problem.
However, I do think that lowering your tire pressure is only a way of
masking the problem, instead of finding & fixing the problem.
It seems to me that shimmy is just another form of resonance, similar to
flutter. Warped brake rotors? The already mentioned wheel pant balance
(or just remove them & see if the problem goes away or changes
frequency)? Tire balance and/or out of round?
At any rate Van's advice to lower tire pressure to damp out the shimmy
instead of finding a fix is disappointing.
charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lucchinetti, Marco" <marcol(at)crt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List : JPI's BIG Mistake |
AvWeb has taken up the cause. The latest newsletter calls JPI's suit
"way out of hand" and provides email addresses for Matt and Joe
Polizzotto. Nothing like a little publicity
> -----Original Message-----
> From: b green [SMTP:rvinfo(at)Juno.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 26, 1999 4:11 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List : JPI's BIG Mistake
>
>
> Should we be boycotting Electronics International too? Didn't they
> start
> this whole thing by sueing JPI in the first place?
>
> Bruce Green
>
> >You the builders buy from these guys, here's another way to get to
> >JPI's
> >managment. Start calling your suppliers tell them about Matt's
> >misfortune.
> >Maybe they can help get the point across that this industry will not
> >support a
> >bully.
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: crossover exhaust |
In a message dated 3/28/99 9:21:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
> Can someone explain the purpose of crossing over the exhaust system on
> an RV-6?
It has to do with power pulses and exhaust scavenging. By using a crossover
exhaust you use low pressure created in one cylinder to "suck" the exhaust
gases out of another cylinder while its exhaust valve is opened.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: frivolous lawsuit |
Charles
Way to go!!!!, Couldn't have said it better myself. Let's show JPI that the
Homebuilt Market is BIGGER than they thought. We stand up for what we think is
RIGHT and we hate seeing one of OUR FAMILY walked on.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Four New Email Lists Now Available! |
Matt, Your going to become the Rupert Murdock of email lists!
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 1999 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Four New Email Lists Now Available!
925-606-1001)
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I have added four new Email Lists to the existing Lists currently
sponsored
> by Matronics. These include Lists for the Yak, VariEZ/LongEZ, Lancair,
and
> Glasair. Existing Lists include the RV, Zenith, Kolb, and HR Rocket
Lists.
> The new Lists will be run in the same spirit as the existing Email Lists
> available on the Matronics server including the high-speed web-based
archive
> searching and browsing capabilities as well as the respective List web
> site. As always, access and subscription to the new Lists is completely
> free of charge. Generous contributions are, however, always
appreciated...
> ;-)
>
> To subscribe to any of the new lists, please refer to the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>
> For more information on any of the Lists sponsored by Matronics, please
> refer to the following URL, and select the particular List of interest:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/other.html
>
>
> Thank you for all of your generous support over the years!
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: crossover exhaust |
Everett Hatch tested my new O-360 on his dyno with both the Vetterman
cross-over exhaust and the Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust. He found no
significant difference in the power output between the two systems. There
is, however, a difference in the exhaust note. The 4-pipe system has a
harsher sound than the crossover.
He chose the 4-pipe system for my airplane because it fit more easily around
his custom cold-air induction.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST doing f*berglass work. Ugh.
>
>In a message dated 3/28/99 9:21:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
>
>> Can someone explain the purpose of crossing over the exhaust system on
>> an RV-6?
>
>It has to do with power pulses and exhaust scavenging. By using a crossover
>exhaust you use low pressure created in one cylinder to "suck" the exhaust
>gases out of another cylinder while its exhaust valve is opened.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Fellow builders,
After having spent the last weekend with some of those nasty fiberglassing
chores on the cowlings, I thought I'd share a few tips that might make the
job a little easier for those that haven't worked with the stuff very much.
Before the RV, I built a "glass backwards" airplane and I learned quite a
few tips that make the job easier.
One of the really simple things that you can do to make the job easier is to
lay up the fiberglass on your workbench on a sheet of aluminum foil. Wet
the cloth with epoxy and squeegee out the excess. Then cut the strips the
size you need to do the job. In fact, layout your cut marks on the foil
with marker before hand. You can see them through the wetted cloth. Then
cut our the strips through the foil and the glass. Take the strip over to
the airplane, turn it over and press it into place. Once you have it where
you want it, carefully peel the foil off of the back. This keeps the edges
neat and straight and makes it easy to handle. Note, it takes a sharp pair
of scissors to do this. If they are dull, forget it. You'll make a big
mess of it.
If you cut the glass cloth on the bias (and you should always do this), then
the strip tends to get distorted the more you handle it. Eventually it
becomes a big mess. The foil really helps it to hold its shape. I almost
never put glass onto a lay-up without first wetting it out on the bench as
I've described. Using this technique also saves glass and helps to keep the
layout more dry.
This doesn't work all the time though. If you need to overlap joints, you
may need to lay-up many single strips on the foil and apply them one at a
time so that you can stagger the joints. Even so, putting them on foil
first makes it a breeze.
Anyway, just a few tips for those that may find it helpful.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Getting ready for Paint"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
When I first started flying Suzie Q there was no shimmy, with the exception
of an occasional wiggle as roll-out slowed down. As the tires got worn
(still on my first set with over 200 hours), I started to get a little more
wiggle. I balanced the wheel fairings and that helped. Two days ago, I did
the monthly tire pressure check, found the pressure down some and put 32 psi
in each. And of course, I went out and did some stop and go landings. MAN,
was there some shimmy. This morning, let the pressure back down to 27 and
the shimmy went away. Hmmm.
I have several layers of glass on the landing gear legs but no wood. I have
a new set of tires in the hanger that are going to be put on pretty soon
here. I think just having new and balanced tires will also help. Going with
Condor tires this time, just to see the difference.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Having a ball, learning.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Can anyone make a comparison between the factory fairings and the Tracy
Sailor fairings hours work, looks etc. Cant find much in the archieves.
RV6A/finsih kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Light Speed Engineering Electronic Ignition |
I said I would post a report after I finished installing a LSE Hall effect
electronic ignition in place of my right, or non-impulse, magneto on my
Lycoming-like (its not a certified engine) O-320, 160HP RV-6A.
I received the unit, it was complete and appears well made. Nothing was
missing. Instructions could be a tad more clear (I had no idea what a
"standard" clamp was, nor a "toe clamp," terms that were used
interchangeably.) I also was bit confused about high voltage cable routing,
but when Claus pointed out that the photos in the section (not included) for
his dual system should be used, all was clear.
I installed the module on one of the ribs that connect from the aft face of
the fire wall to the forward side of the sub-panel. With a completed RV that
has the center console that was mechanically difficult. If open access were
possible it would have been a 10-minute job.
Installation of the trigger coils atop the engine was simple. Installing and
setting the sensor which has been installed in place of the removed magneto
was a no-brainer.
Starting is VERY noticeably faster. The engine snapped to life on the first
blade over! Take off seemed better, but that's very subjective.
Flight might have given me a few more MPH at the same RPM, but again that's
not too firm.
At 1700 RPM on runup, disabling the remaining conventional magneto resulted
in NO RPM DROP WHATEVER. Turning off the electronic unit and running on the
mag only gave a drop of about 95RPM. I am not certain if engine smoothness
is improved yet or not, I was so busy watching other things that I forgot to
evaluate it. More later if anything significant develops.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I'm in the process of painting my wings and was about to pain a strip along
the leading edge about 4" back. I was told this ridge could effect the air
flow with negative results. Any first hand experience out there. Thanks
ahead
RV6A/finishkit
planejoe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eletric Gyros |
>
>> Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
>
>Yes. You want to have two independent sets of gyros, each with its own power
>source, so that a single failure won't wipe 'em all out.
Agreed. But that power source doesn't necessarily mean a different *types*
of power, e.g. electricity vs. vacuum. If you have two sources of
electrical power, you have satisfied the need for redundant power if you
can easily select between the two sources of power.
With an all-electric panel, if I lose one source of electrical power, i.e.
my main buss with alternator, I can switch to my alternate source of
electrical power and, voila', I still have all my gyros. With vacuum
power, I lose my horribly unreliable vacuum pump, and my air-driven gyros
are *gone* so I *MUST* fly partial panel. Sure I can fly partial panel but
nowhere near as well as I can fly when I have an AI and a DG.
>That's why
>conventional arrangements have an electric turn coordinator and the other
>gyros are vacuum. You can lose either system and still have enough
information
>to control the airplane.
Sometimes conventional wisdom isn't all that wise. Alternators, batteries,
and electrical wiring are a lot more reliable than the dry vacuum pump.
Why build around an unreliable system just because it is redundant? Build
the most reliable system you can, and that is 100% electrical in my book,
and then add redundancy there.
Bob Nuckols says it very well in his book, _The_Aeroelectric_Connection_.
(I am going to paraphrase here because I don't want to go look up the exact
quote.) You need to do failure analysis and then determine what the
ramifications are for each possible failure. If a failure is possible AND
it would threaten the safety of the flight, then you need to find a
work-around solution that will allow you to safely land the aircraft. You
build in the necessary redundancy or extra systems to accommodate that
failure.
As I said in a previous message, redundant electrical power is *VERY* easy
to come by. If the primary (alternator) fails, you already have a
secondary source (aircraft battery). If that fails you can even have a
tertiary source, e.g. an extra battery pack made out of D-cells, etc. That
is much easier to come by than a second pneumatic source. The only
question then is how to accommodate a failure of the path between source;
e.g. battery, alternator, etc.; and sink; e.g. radios, gyros, etc. Bob's
dual-source, dual-path, no-single-point-of-failure approach to aircraft
electrical buss design takes care of that very handily.
>Note that electric pitot heat is part of that design,
>too -- lose electrics, you lose the turn coordinator and possibly the
>airspeed. Lose vacuum, and you can still fly partial panel.
And I reiterate, flying partial panel ranges from no fun to downright
dangerous. Why design for that sort of fallback position when you can do
so much better?
Just remember, vacuum pumps suck. ;
)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
Reply to message dated 03-28-99
Sluggo,
Ryan Bendure Co. gave
you the correct advice on wheel shimmy. Having built an RV-3A and flew it for
2-1/2 years, I experienced the same wheel shimmy at different speeds also.
After I sold the plane, I found out how to correct it. Definitely balance your
wheel pants. Grumman Yankee aircraft did this by putting weights in the
forward section of the wheel pants. One story goes, that a fellow didn't
understand what the weights were for and removed them from his Yankee wheel
pants and experienced horrible wheel shimmy. After putting them back, nothing
but smooth.
Hope it works for you too.
Tom Benton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: rivet squeeze (sizes) question |
rivets used are 470 4's. i ordered from avery the 6 piece
>squeeze set and not sure what dies i use. also, do i use a flush for
>the un cuped side of rivet??? any and all help greatly appreciated here.
>thanx,
bob paulovich in arkansas
Bob:
I found if you drive the #4 rivets, it a lot better than trying to
squeeze them.
If you have a round head you got to used a round head anvil. you of couse
got to use a flat on the bucked side.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Storing Lycoming's way |
>I called Lycoming last November about perserving my new O-320. Tech
>help told me to fill the engine completely full with new, clean
>automotive motor oil. Fill from the breater fitting. Then seal the
>exhaust ports with homemade plates and fill the cylinders through the
>top plugs.
>Of course Lycoming said the oil is drained thoruoghly and then filled
>with aircraft oil before running.
>
>P.S. DO NOT order long term storage with the engine if you plan on
>hanging the engine.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 coming together in central FL.
Rick:
I have my upside down with 8 qts. I plan on rotating it each month or so.
How much oil did it take to fill-er-up??? one more thing. Would it be
good to drain the auto oil & fill with old but clean avaition oil from
the last oil change of a friend & then turn it till you get a lettle
pressure & then drain for the new avaition oil. Just wondering about a
small layer of auto oil mixed with the new avation oil.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lopez, Steve" <lopezs(at)pweh.com> |
I need to buy a new does anyone know which one works well on the RV 3's, 150 horse.
How about the two blade ground adjustable Ivo Props or would a wood fixed
pitch be a better choice? Thanks for any available help.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eletric Gyros |
where can one find this book?
>From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Eletric Gyros
>Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 14:55:13 -0800
>
>
>>
>>> Other than cost, are there any other disadvantages?
>>
>>Yes. You want to have two independent sets of gyros, each with its own
power
>>source, so that a single failure won't wipe 'em all out.
>
>Agreed. But that power source doesn't necessarily mean a different
*types*
>of power, e.g. electricity vs. vacuum. If you have two sources of
>electrical power, you have satisfied the need for redundant power if
you
>can easily select between the two sources of power.
>
>With an all-electric panel, if I lose one source of electrical power,
i.e.
>my main buss with alternator, I can switch to my alternate source of
>electrical power and, voila', I still have all my gyros. With vacuum
>power, I lose my horribly unreliable vacuum pump, and my air-driven
gyros
>are *gone* so I *MUST* fly partial panel. Sure I can fly partial panel
but
>nowhere near as well as I can fly when I have an AI and a DG.
>
>>That's why
>>conventional arrangements have an electric turn coordinator and the
other
>>gyros are vacuum. You can lose either system and still have enough
>information
>>to control the airplane.
>
>Sometimes conventional wisdom isn't all that wise. Alternators,
batteries,
>and electrical wiring are a lot more reliable than the dry vacuum pump.
>Why build around an unreliable system just because it is redundant?
Build
>the most reliable system you can, and that is 100% electrical in my
book,
>and then add redundancy there.
>
>Bob Nuckols says it very well in his book,
_The_Aeroelectric_Connection_.
>(I am going to paraphrase here because I don't want to go look up the
exact
>quote.) You need to do failure analysis and then determine what the
>ramifications are for each possible failure. If a failure is possible
AND
>it would threaten the safety of the flight, then you need to find a
>work-around solution that will allow you to safely land the aircraft.
You
>build in the necessary redundancy or extra systems to accommodate that
>failure.
>
>As I said in a previous message, redundant electrical power is *VERY*
easy
>to come by. If the primary (alternator) fails, you already have a
>secondary source (aircraft battery). If that fails you can even have a
>tertiary source, e.g. an extra battery pack made out of D-cells, etc.
That
>is much easier to come by than a second pneumatic source. The only
>question then is how to accommodate a failure of the path between
source;
>e.g. battery, alternator, etc.; and sink; e.g. radios, gyros, etc.
Bob's
>dual-source, dual-path, no-single-point-of-failure approach to aircraft
>electrical buss design takes care of that very handily.
>
>>Note that electric pitot heat is part of that design,
>>too -- lose electrics, you lose the turn coordinator and possibly the
>>airspeed. Lose vacuum, and you can still fly partial panel.
>
>And I reiterate, flying partial panel ranges from no fun to downright
>dangerous. Why design for that sort of fallback position when you can
do
>so much better?
>
>Just remember, vacuum pumps suck. ;
)
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
O-
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Light Speed Engineering Electronic Ignition |
In a message dated 3/29/99 4:28:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<< Flight might have given me a few more MPH at the same RPM, but again that's
not too firm. >>
John,
I don't think the air or airplane know or care what the ignition system is. At
a given RPM with a fixed airplane and prop, you will get the exact performance
IMHO.
Bernie Kerr, 6A cowl and panel, SE Fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LEADING EDGE |
In a message dated 3/29/99 4:35:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
planejoe(at)flnet.com writes:
<< I'm in the process of painting my wings and was about to pain a strip along
the leading edge about 4" back. I was told this ridge could effect the air
flow with negative results. Any first hand experience out there. Thanks
ahead >>
Hi Joe,
I beleive that is an old wives tale. It is probably left over from the Q-2
early days. The first kit to fly experinced a big loss in lift when it had a
LE strip painted. It was a laminar flow canard that was operating at a
Reynolds Number arround 1.5 million. This canard also exhibited the same
phenomena in rain or bugs. Your wing will not experience any loss of lift
IMHO. It is possible that you might have a tiny increase in drag if you left a
large discontinuity at the stripe edge. If you are really concerned, make a
butt joint in the paint with no effects if it is smooth.
Bernie Kerr, 6A cowl and panel, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | HS 610-614 question |
are the outer holes drilled prior to the 6 degree bends??? thanx, bob
in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
For anyone interested in Mazda power for their RV, Tracy Crook now has his
website up and running at:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com
Documents stats on his RV4 (including flight time of 780 hours as of 3/99)
and his companies products.
Mike Wills
RV-4 saving for the finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Tanks screws etc. |
I was fitting the tanks on to see how well they position after all the
sealing, etc.
I found that a product like Boelube, (looks like a dry lubricant pasty
powder)
Do-all, (looks like bees wax) or best of all, a dab of Mastinox, (looks like
a yellow custard) works like a charm to lube the screws very well so they
drive in well and better yet, remove well, avoiding a lot of twisting and
stripping of screws to seat them.
Another little item from an auto parts store is little round rubber
grommets all the way from 1/8" to 1/2" or more inside diameter, make for
handy, cheap carry throughs for wires where you don't really want big
honkin' holes for just one or two wires passing through a member or
bulkhead...e.g. spar attach or whatever..just a thought...Buster.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Niel France - your essage did not have your e-mail address, so I have to
post it to the net.
No, this system is not the same as the one you saw that had blanking plates
over the old mag holes. That is LSE's system where bolts are put in the rim
of the flywheel and they pass pick up coils that fire the plugs
(ultimately.) That system fires all plugs by the electronic system.
The Hall effect system uses a sensor that is mounted in the place one mag is
taken off the aircraft. That give RPM information. The intake manifold
pressure is also input to the control module. Between the two they set the
timing. The remaining mag runs just like it always did.
You can see this system on LSE's web page; Http://www.lsecorp.com
I think the system will be worthwhile as long as you do not attempt to
justify it from a fuel savings standpoint.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO 7,500'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A Gear Mount Question |
| From: | Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
I am ready to mount the wing and start on the landing gear. Prior to
mounting the wings (should I say wing?), I trial fit the gear to a get a
look-see.
Bottom line, it didn't seem to fit very well; I couldn't get it to snug
into the corner and be approximately in alignment with the future bolt
holes.
Question: should it fit tight to the surfaces? Did you need to use shims
or spacer plates? Did you need to gring off some material on the strut
that takes the rivets?
I may be jumping the gun, (I will keep going), but what's ahead?
Thanks,
Bill Watson
RV6A Gear Mounting Next
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
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| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Remote fuel selector |
I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and be able
to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle. What brand
selector is of excellent quality and can be modified easily? And if anyone
has done this I am open for any suggestions.
C.H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LEADING EDGE |
I talked to a glider pilot whosaid that he had had a beautiful new paint job
done to his glider with the afore mentioned leading edge accent which caused
a great lift reduction. Removed the trim design on the leading edge and his
problem went away. Go figure!
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
Joseph, You wrote>
>I'm in the process of painting my wings and was about to pain a strip along
>the leading edge about 4" back. I was told this ridge could effect the air
>flow with negative results. Any first hand experience out there. Thanks
>ahead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise cancelling headsets |
As I recall, to prevent the regulator from oscillating, you should also have
a 0.22uF cap between the +9V pin and the ground pin.
Even better is to also add at least 100uF (16V or more) electrolytic cap
between the 12V and ground pin.
Royce
>
>LM7809 3-terminal positive regulator or equivilant from any electronics
>supply house. Input (12 V bus in plane), ground, and 9 volt output (the
>09 in 7809) to the head set. Ask for the to220 package. It's a plastic
>square about 3/8"X3/8"X1/8" thick with a metal tab for mounting & heat
>sinking. Mount in the smallest aluminum box you're comfortable working
>in & this will supply the heat sink. The box should cost more than the
>regulator.
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
>
>
>Has anyone tried the new fiber glass nose gear strut? What is the shimmy
>like with it? I plan on odering one pretty soon. Seems like a better
>engineered setup regards corrosion than glued on wood. Question...what will
>they do for damping shimmy?
>Larry, RV-6A finish stuff
>
I have the new fiberglass fairings. I think that is what you are referring
to. I am using them on the main gear of an RV-6. I like the fact they are
removable but they are very light weight and I don't believe they would have
any effect on shimmy. I went ahead and installed the wood under the
fairings although the instructions don't say anything about what to do.
Haven't flown, so don't know how my setup will work, but I like the new
Van's glass fairings.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Inspection scheduled April 22
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
In a message dated 3/28/99 4:55:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ylcrc(at)ttacs.ttu.edu writes:
>
> Randy Compton wrote:
> >The GPS shows about 18 to 20 knots during taxi, and the onset during
> landing
> >rollout seems to be around 30 knots. Firm braking dampens this somewhat,
> >with no shimmy below 18 knots. Also, during takeoff acceleration, there
is
> >no shimmy.
>
> My RV-3 does the exact same thing when tires are fully inflated. So I keep
> them underinflated and that eliminates the shimmy. When I have too much
air
> in them, I taxi very slowly and brake when the shimmy starts upon landing.
> Not an ideal situation but I live with it. If anybody else has a solution,
> other than putting the gear on straight in the first place, I'd like to
hear
> it.
>
> Chuck
> RV-3 N893FS
I balanced the wheel pants. My tire pressure was 18-22 psi tire pressure to
control the shimmy. It doesn't shimmy at 30 psi.
Of course, some things work for me that don't work for anyone else. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Flyin' with Mike - value as good as Van's hardware! |
Yeeeea - Haaaa!
We just got back from spending some time in the North Plains area flying
with Mike Seager in Van's RV-6A (N666RV). What a great deal! I absolutely
believe that spending this time and money was every bit as valuable as the
money spent directly on hardware from Van himself. Almost everyone reading
this list agrees with me that sending money to Van's Aircraft beats any
other way to spend it on airplanes, in terms of what you pay for what you
get (if not, why ARE you subscribing???!!!)
Specifically, Kathy and I spent parts of two days (3.9 "billable hours" in
three sessions for me, 2.8 in two sessions for Kathy) with Mike getting some
familiarization training in the -6A. Van and Mike have conspired (with the
FAA) to make this service available to RV customers to increase thier
likelihood of success in that critical early flight period (especially the
first one!). If you're already flying a Thorp T-18, Lancair, Glasair, etc.,
you're probably already used to the type of performance that an RV provides.
If, however, you're like Kathy and me and all previous experience is in spam
cans like the Cherokee and 152/172, hark an ear...
What we got for our money: Mike took us out and introduced us to the plane
(climb, cruise, maneuvering flight, turns, stalls, etc. - classic BFR and/or
transition training for any new/different plane), then we headed for the
airport (Scappoose, OR in my case) to see what it's like in the pattern. We
spent a major portion of our time with him in the pattern, learning how to
get the plane on/off the ground safely and smoothly. At this point in time,
I feel much more confident that I can handle our plane when it's ready for
that first flight.
The RV-6A is every bit as good an airplane to fly as is claimed. (Hearsay
says this is true of the entire RV family - I believe it, just can't state
it from my own experience...!) The plane is very predictable, very easy to
control, and overall a total gas to fly (hence the universal RV grin from
pilots!). Although sometimes you start wondering after reading some of the
messages on this list, it also obeys every one of the same
laws/rules/principles of physics and aerodynamics that the Cessper/Pissna's
do. This is both good and bad (balance is far to the good side...). At the
same time, while aerodynamics say it has to share a lot of flight
characteristics with it's ancestors, there are also differences that can
catch you napping, especially if you haven't "flown with Mike".
Biggest difference between the RV and a Cherokee: THINGS CAN CHANGE
QUICKLY! The RV whips Piper/Cessna specs in terms of dimensions, weights,
power loading, roll and pitch rates, etc. That's why we've all bought (or
are buying, or are considering buying) these experimental aircraft - to be
able to enjoy higher performance for our dollars than we can get in the
certified world. Sliding the throttle forward to start the takeoff roll
(even uphill on Van's wet/soft grass strip) causes you to get squished back
in the seat WAY more than a Cherokee can do. This is just a hint of what's
in store through the whole flight. Speed reductions happen faster, too
(partly due to the constant speed prop on N666RV, but not entirely). If you
reduce power on downwind, then don't pay attention to airspeed/descent
rate/power setting, you can find yourself playing with the bottom of the
green/white arcs on the airspeed indicator much sooner than this could
happen in a C-172. To give you an idea of how this is manifested overall, I
usually figure on about 6 minutes per lap of the pattern if I'm doing touch
& go practice in our Cherokee. I think the average time was closer to 4
minutes in the RV, and that includes stop & goes instead of touch & goes!
Like I said - things CHANGE quickly! The same processes are used, but you
don't get as much time to dawdle around noticing that you need to correct a
"drift", be it attitude, position, or speed. Fortunately, though, any
variance can be corrected very quickly and easily - if you pay attention,
this aircraft can fly like it's on rails and under computer control.
As far as Mike's personality and credentials go, he's the guy you'd pick if
you did a search for flight instructors using the suggestions in articles in
Plane & Pilot, Flying, etc. He's technically a good pilot, has been
instructing for a lot of hours, loves flying (and is infectious about it!),
is very methodical, and at least for me, HE CAN DESCRIBE WHAT HE WANTS IN
WORDS THAT I UNDERSTAND! I've worked with coaches/instructors in the past
(not always in aviation) that just didn't have the communication knack that
is the difference between an expert and an expert instructor. He's patient,
allows minor "learning experiences" (as long as they're not going to hurt us
or the hardware), and is constantly positive in his outlook and critique of
recent events. He also keeps after a point until you convince him that you
at least know what the correct procedure is, and can demonstrate it with
reasonable skill and consistency. (I had trouble getting the sight picture,
timing, and control inputs correct in the landing flare - I know I was
driving Mike nuts, but he kept with it. The last session, I finally pulled
it together and got a couple of acceptable touchdowns. Now that I know what
needs to happen, I feel pretty good about doing it alone in a few months
when the time comes...)
Mike doesn't consider this flight training to be his primary profession - he
owns another business that is his first responsibility. I'm personally
hoping that he and Van are both successful enough that he can make a
choice - can he be successful and have more fun by delegating/selling the
"other" job so that he can put more time into teaching us to fly RV's?
I'm certainly glad that Van and Mike have seen fit to make this opportunity
available to us. I really believe that having done this (especially the
landings!) will make my chance of success much better on the "Big Day" for
N110KB, the -6A that Kathy and I are working on. Neither one of them can be
getting rich from this process - the cost was only $70/hr, which included
Mike's time AND the RV-6A (with fuel). This is pretty close to what I was
paying for instructor and C-172 rental during my primary training a couple
years ago. There aren't many opportunities to get experience like this -
while a lot of RV'ers are willing to let you take the stick for a while at
altitude, even those who are CFI's are understandably reluctant to let you
actually do the approach and LAND! I heartily recommend to any and all that
you take advantage of this opportunity - who knows, if there's enough
demand, Van might even see fit to open flight training centers around the
country (Mike already takes the -6 on tour a couple times a year - I think
he's in Texas this week or next, on the way to Sun & Fun). (Realistically,
the logistics could be a nightmare - by using the factory prototypes, Van
also has the R & D staff do the maintenance, mods, etc. on these planes - he
gets pretty good use/value from them, and has a chance to keep a close eye
on them. If a plane doing this job weren't based in North Plains, it would
be a lot tougher to keep it in the kind of condition that these are.)
In closing:
Mike S., thanks again for working with us.
Scott McDaniels - could you please pass on our thanks to your boss for going
to the trouble to make this possible to us (with the FAA and with his
equipment!).
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV grins refreshed, back to working on details with
enthusiasm while we wait for finish kit & engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Wellock <garyw(at)compasst.co.zw> |
| Subject: | Request for an RV6 Maintenance Schedule |
Hi All
In order for us to register RV's in our country, the Civil Aviation
Authorities require a specific maintenance schedule for the aircraft.
Please help. Does anyone have a basis that we can modify for use here.
Kind Regards
Gary F Wellock
Tail Feathers
Tel ++ 263-4-741816
Fax ++ 263-4-741816
Cell ++ 263-11-601340
E-Mail:garyw(at)compasst.co.zw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Balbierer <jbalbierer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
Chris- Read the John Denver accident report before you do this. You
may change your mind.
--- christopher huey wrote:
>
>
> I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of
> the firewall and be able
> to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector
> handle. What brand
> selector is of excellent quality and can be modified
> easily? And if anyone
> has done this I am open for any suggestions.
>
> C.H.
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
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> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
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> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eletric Gyros |
Lucky,
You can contact AeroElectric at WWW.aeroelectric.com
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
awaiting QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
christopher huey wrote:
"I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and be
able to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle."
Read the John Denver accident report on the FAA/NSTB web site!
<http://www.ntsb.gov/default.htm>
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
> christopher huey wrote:
>
> "I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and be
> able to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle."
>
Christopher,
Take a look at a Stearman. The fuel selector is located on the aft side of the
firewall, however it might give you some ideas on how to set up the linkage.
One thing you'll see is that it can be controlled from either the front of rear
cockpit. Something else to note of operating safety is that the linkage uses a
coupling which acts as a universal joint. This minimizes the change of the
system binding due to a slight misalignment.
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Gear Mount Question |
Bill,
I found this also to be a problem last year when I mounted the wings and
took my first look at the fit of the landing gear mounts. Mine also did not
fit well. I called Van's. They said they had never heard of a problem
fitting these to the RV-6A fuselage. I went back to the shop and pushed and
clamped until they looked to be as tight in the corner of the fuselage and
the F-604/wing spar as they could get. I ended up with what looked a little
bit of a bad fit almost everywhere and two big problems.
Problem one was that the strut that goes forward to the outside angle
bracing in the fuselage did not come close to touching the fuselage. There
was a gap of a quarter inch or more. Advice from this list was to heat and
bend the steel strut until it fit. Other advice was to shim. Take your
pick. I made shims.
Problem two was that one of the bolt holes in the wing spar came very, very,
very close to the big tube that houses the gear. So close that I could not
get a bolt in the hole or a nut on the bolt if it put the bolt through from
the rear. I ended up grinding away a small semi-circle in the weld so I
could get a nut on. I read another post a few weeks or months ago that
indicated that another builder with a similar problem sent the gear mount
back and got a slightly re-welded one that fit better. There may be some
variation in what Van's Aircraft is shipping and another gear mount might
fit better.
After many weeks of careful drilling and bolting, I got the wings and the
landing gear mounts to line up pretty well. I was pleased and a bit
surprised given how bad it looked the first time I tried to fit them. You
will find it is easier to do the drilling and bolting in if you leave the
bottom skins off. I have small shims on the sides of the gear mounts and at
the front strut as mentioned above.
That was about a year ago. I am waiting for the finish kit. With time on
my hands I decided to make a nice false spar so I can (some day soon) get
the machine up on its gear and more easily move it around the shop. Now I
am getting some practice putting bolts in the wing spar and through the
holes in the gear mounts with the floors on and the fuselage upright.
Everything is lining up OK, but at least three of the bolts are pretty snug
and are still giving me problems.
The guys who build the RV-6 don't have to mess with landing gear mounts
through the floor at all. There is a virtue in simplicity. Made me wish
many times that I built the taildragger. After a tremendous number of hours
(well four, but it felt longer) trying to land a Cub, I am glad that I stuck
with the tri-gear.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
I am ready to mount the wing and start on the landing gear.
Prior to
mounting the wings (should I say wing?), I trial fit the
gear to a get a
look-see.
Bottom line, it didn't seem to fit very well; I couldn't get
it to snug
into the corner and be approximately in alignment with the
future bolt
holes.
Question: should it fit tight to the surfaces? Did you need
to use shims
or spacer plates? Did you need to gring off some material
on the strut
that takes the rivets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
In a message dated 3/30/99 7:20:17 AM Central Standard Time,
RVReynolds(at)macs.net writes:
<< christopher huey wrote:
"I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and be
able to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle."
Read the John Denver accident report on the FAA/NSTB web site!
>>
And for a more positive answer, look at any Champ. The approx 4' shaft even
has a knuckle in the middle!
If you want to do this, have a hard look at the failure modes, and address any
issues that may come up. I see no reason to not do this, given a good design.
Heck, even the handles on valves have been known to turn on the shaft, leaving
the pilot with few options. Gravity always works!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LEADING EDGE |
Perspective!
The glider almost certainly has a laminar flow wing. Bugs on the leading
edge would probably cause the same problem. Most of the original canard
designs had this problem. The paint seam (or bugs) disrupts the laminar
flow & kills the lift efficiency of the airfoil. Now note the paint on
the RV-4 prototype. It's not laminar flow & isn't as sensitive to bugs,
paint stripes, etc.
Charlie
Brad Bundy wrote:
>
>
> I talked to a glider pilot whosaid that he had had a beautiful new paint job
> done to his glider with the afore mentioned leading edge accent which caused
> a great lift reduction. Removed the trim design on the leading edge and his
> problem went away. Go figure!
> Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
>
> Joseph, You wrote>
> >I'm in the process of painting my wings and was about to pain a strip along
> >the leading edge about 4" back. I was told this ridge could effect the air
> >flow with negative results. Any first hand experience out there. Thanks
> >ahead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Shimmy |
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/28/99 2:50:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rdcompton(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> > Any ideas, other than always avoiding pavement? All this motion can't be
> > good for the long-term health of the airframe/plumbing/etc. Worst of all,
> > it looks bad in front of all my fellow airport bums. :-)
>
> On my -6a, the first 100 hours were shimmy free, then I removed the tires
> and reversed them on their respective wheels to promote even wear. Now during
> roll-out when I slow below about 30 mph, the right wheel shimmys a little.
> I've tried different air pressure's, etc. All it takes is a little brake
> application and it quits. It isn't bothersome, and I realize it has to do with
> the wear patterns on the tires, so I figure as long as it doesn't get any
> worse, when I replace the tires it will probably go away.
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A
One more two cents worth.
First of all a cheap shot at those daring to be critical of the design. Listen
you guys this is one of the truly elegant design triumphs of the RV series. The
weird scruffing of the tires on landing is in lieu of expensive shocks, sturdy
oleo struts and all the things that go with them. It works, is cheap, reliable
and simple. The down side trade off is tire wear and shimmy. Be happy. My
guess is to design and manufacture a "conventional" gear would cost more than we
are paying for the whole kit.
These shimmy things vary according to tire pressure, speed, surface condition,
tire condition (type, wear, etc), even temperature. But most of all a big
variable is the type RV! The 6A has shorter legs and seems far less prone to the
big shakes that you see on 43, 3s, and 6s. So be leary of applying a fix to your
plane based on experience from another model. What I find most interesting is
it
never happens on take off, so it may well be that "unloading" weight is dampening
while "loading" the gear is destabilizing. I do find that when it occurs on my
trike, I can stop it instantly with brake pressure, but in a 6, it takes some
slowing also. Hmmmm
Finally perhaps a useful idea. If you suspect the balance the pants trick is a
good idea for you, (Ryan Bendure's ideas are always good), why not just remove
them and see if the problem gets better or worse? This may tell you if the pants
are contributing to the problem.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
I was concerned about gear leg corrosion since I used foam/fiberglass
fairings. I decided to prime and paint the gear legs, I then went to an
electrical supply house and got 2 big peices of heat shrink tubing large
enough to slip over the gear legs. A little heat from a bernz-o-matic torch
and presto, two neatly wrapped gear legs. If you have ever tried to remove
heat shrink you how tough the stuff is. I have had no problems going on 9
years.
regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Martin <budm303(at)earthlink.net> |
Gentlemen, I offer you a quote from the late Col. Arthur D. "Bull"
Simons, United States Army, he of V-N and the rescue for Ross Perot:
"If history is any teacher ... it teaches that when you become
indifferent and lose the will to fight, some other son-of-a-bitch who
has the will to fight will take you over."
In reviewing the JPI correspondence (after the report on AvWeb),
there appears to be no rational incentive for the malicious actions of
JPI. Are we missing something? The rest of the story? Clearly, JPI has
no grounds for a lawsuit. Maybe the lawyers are just jerking JPI (they
do that, you know, just for fun). The obvious action to be taken is a
counter-suit. Is that the hope of JPI? Publicity?
If one looks at business as a war, perhaps some of the tactics used,
e.g., as for Serbia, can be applied. JPI can afford to crush a single
competitor, perhaps to acquire him. But, can JPI stand against the
whole aviation community, it's source of Being?
Instead of writing letters to JPI and their attorneys, give them all
the publicity they appear to be seeking. The letters of boycott should
be sent to every source of advertising used by JPI, every user of JPI
products, every trader of JPI stock, every source of basic parts used by
JPI. If JPI wants war, and that seems to be the arrogant intent, the
public that is sneered at should accommodate. The "public" makes the
laws through its (our) determinations as to how society conducts itself.
It is the public that chooses who shall rise, and who shall fall, as has
been recently illustrated.
Cut off the sources of JPI's income, and I assure you the
demonstration of public disapproval will get the message across. I
think a nice gesture would be for the JPI CEO, and each of his lawyers,
to kiss the bare behind of Matronics' CEO on the DC mall--along with
those other apologies sought.
Just my opinion, of course.
Fly safely,
--B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LEADING EDGE |
When looking for a paint scheme for my RV-8, I had one picked out which
had the leading edges of the wings painted a different color. But I
noticed in the manual that Vans cautions against this, as well as here on
the list there were warnings against this. I figured, 'why take the
chance?' There must be a gazillion paint schemes a guy can come up with;
why choose one that could 'possibly' have a problem? You could avoid this
by painting so that the lap joint is butted, as one lister said, but this
is somewhat difficult and time consuming for the beginning painter.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8 (10 hours)
writes:
>
>I talked to a glider pilot whosaid that he had had a beautiful new
>paint job
>done to his glider with the afore mentioned leading edge accent which
>caused
>a great lift reduction. Removed the trim design on the leading edge
>and his
>problem went away. Go figure!
>Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
>
>Joseph, You wrote>
>>I'm in the process of painting my wings and was about to pain a strip
>along
>>the leading edge about 4" back. I was told this ridge could effect
>the air
>>flow with negative results. Any first hand experience out there.
>Thanks
>>ahead
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More JPI ... |
Bud,
Sounds like you're right - ON!
Let's get the word out. We can make a difference.
See you all at S-N-F!
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Bud Martin <budm303(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: More JPI ...
>Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:13:12 -0700
>
>
> Gentlemen, I offer you a quote from the late Col. Arthur D. "Bull"
>Simons, United States Army, he of V-N and the rescue for Ross Perot:
>"If history is any teacher ... it teaches that when you become
>indifferent and lose the will to fight, some other son-of-a-bitch who
>has the will to fight will take you over."
> In reviewing the JPI correspondence (after the report on AvWeb),
>there appears to be no rational incentive for the malicious actions of
>JPI. Are we missing something? The rest of the story? Clearly, JPI
has
>no grounds for a lawsuit. Maybe the lawyers are just jerking JPI (they
>do that, you know, just for fun). The obvious action to be taken is a
>counter-suit. Is that the hope of JPI? Publicity?
> If one looks at business as a war, perhaps some of the tactics used,
>e.g., as for Serbia, can be applied. JPI can afford to crush a single
>competitor, perhaps to acquire him. But, can JPI stand against the
>whole aviation community, it's source of Being?
> Instead of writing letters to JPI and their attorneys, give them all
>the publicity they appear to be seeking. The letters of boycott should
>be sent to every source of advertising used by JPI, every user of JPI
>products, every trader of JPI stock, every source of basic parts used
by
>JPI. If JPI wants war, and that seems to be the arrogant intent, the
>public that is sneered at should accommodate. The "public" makes the
>laws through its (our) determinations as to how society conducts
itself.
>It is the public that chooses who shall rise, and who shall fall, as
has
>been recently illustrated.
> Cut off the sources of JPI's income, and I assure you the
>demonstration of public disapproval will get the message across. I
>think a nice gesture would be for the JPI CEO, and each of his lawyers,
>to kiss the bare behind of Matronics' CEO on the DC mall--along with
>those other apologies sought.
> Just my opinion, of course.
> Fly safely,
> --B.
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
> "I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and
> be
> able to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle."
>
> Read the John Denver accident report on the FAA/NSTB web site!
This is the second connection between Denver's accident and the question
at hand.
The fact that Denver had a "remote" selector did not cause his problems
as much as the un-safe location of the remote selector.
I intend to use an electric valve in my -6, and have caught some grief
when discussing it. Departing from the original design is not _bad_ as
long as failure modes and backup possibilities of the change are
examined.
This I have done, and I think I'll be as safe as anyone, or anyone who
wants to use a remote valve - so long as they don't mount it over their
left shoulder!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin' with Mike - value as good as Van's hardware! |
Kathy & Bill Peck wrote:
>
> Biggest difference between the RV and a Cherokee: THINGS CAN CHANGE
> QUICKLY! The RV whips Piper/Cessna specs in terms of dimensions, weights,
> power loading, roll and pitch rates, etc. That's why we've all bought (or
> are buying, or are considering buying) these experimental aircraft - to be
> able to enjoy higher performance for our dollars than we can get in the
> certified world. Sliding the throttle forward to start the takeoff roll
> (even uphill on Van's wet/soft grass strip) causes you to get squished back
> in the seat WAY more than a Cherokee can do. This is just a hint of what's
> in store through the whole flight. Speed reductions happen faster, too
> (partly due to the constant speed prop on N666RV, but not entirely). If you
> reduce power on downwind, then don't pay attention to airspeed/descent
> rate/power setting, you can find yourself playing with the bottom of the
> green/white arcs on the airspeed indicator much sooner than this could
> happen in a C-172.
Bill and Kathy
That is a really excellent article you posted and you have described very
well the reactions that I get when I am checking out prospective RV
pilots the first time.
One little thing I would like to caution you about is your statement about
the fact that slowing down faster than other types of airplanes. While it is
true that with a constant speed prop they will slow down in a hurry it is also
true that without a CS prop they are very hard to get to slow down and you must
plan you approach to landing much sooner than you would in a 150/172 etc.
My RV-6 has a Warnke prop which is a narrow skinny blade and it has almost no
braking ability at all so it is hard to get my RV-6 to slow down on downwind,
base and final. If I am flying formation with a CS prop RV and we do say a
overhead brake to land the RV with the CS prop can reduce power turn and land.
If I don't plan carefully I reduce power and still fly to the next county before
getting slow enough to land.
Once again a very good post and description of your flying time with Mike,
but please don't praise him anymore and make his head to big. I have to see
him at the local Saturday morning breakfasts and have to take flight
instructor refresher courses with him. If you keep this up he will be impossible
to be around. :):)
Jerry Springer|RV-6 first flight 1989|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
and the latest Contact! magazine has an article on Ed Anderson's installation.
hal
> For anyone interested in Mazda power for their RV, Tracy Crook now has his
> website up and running at:
>
> http://www.rotaryaviation.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rohan Lloyd" <rlloyd(at)northnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise cancelling headsets |
Ivan,
I and other Ag pilots over here have been running that headsets inc ANR. In
reply to you question the $75 transformer they sold us lasted about a week
and cooked itself. Our engineer then went to the equivalent of your Radio
Shack and got some sort of "chip' that steps down the voltage to 9vdc and we
have never looked back. We have all found that in the wear and tear of Ag
work there installaion does not stand up. The biggest complaint would be the
power plug which corrodes and does not like to be pulled in and out of the
socket very often. I also wonder why this system is so cheap as the helmet
manufacturers are selling systems at least two to four tmes dearer??
Rohan
---
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hughes" <okeanos(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote fuel selector |
If you carefully the entire Denver accident report it appears that the
problem was, in fact, caused by the extended selector not by the location.
The valve seems to have been in a position where it allowed air fom the
empty tank to enter one side while fuel was in the other tank. This partial
opening to the dry tank allowed the engine to run out of fuel even though
the selector handle was in the correct position. The extended selector had
slipped due to the rivets loosening in the extension.
At least thats how I read It. fwiw
I for one will always put my grubby paws on the fuel selector directly and
feel it into the proper on left or right position so as not to allow this
possible problem.
My 2 cents
Steve Hughes
okeanos(at)msn.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remote fuel selector
>
>> "I want to put a fuel sector on the cockpit side of the firewall and
>> be
>> able to rotate it by a shaft connected to the selector handle."
>>
>> Read the John Denver accident report on the FAA/NSTB web site!
>
>
>This is the second connection between Denver's accident and the question
>at hand.
>
>The fact that Denver had a "remote" selector did not cause his problems
>as much as the un-safe location of the remote selector.
>
>I intend to use an electric valve in my -6, and have caught some grief
>when discussing it. Departing from the original design is not _bad_ as
>long as failure modes and backup possibilities of the change are
>examined.
>This I have done, and I think I'll be as safe as anyone, or anyone who
>wants to use a remote valve - so long as they don't mount it over their
>left shoulder!
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Govener accesory pad |
I have an O-360-A1A and do not plan on using a constant speed prop. I
have removed the oil line and plugged the holes and was wondering what
to do with the governor mounting pad. Should I fabricate a blockoff
plate for the where the governor would normally attach, or should I
remove the governor mounting pad and associated gears and put a
blockoff plate on the accessory case.
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: crossover exhaust |
In addition to scavenging the exaust, it improves the intake charge. There
is a period of time (valve overlap) where both valves are open. The
scavenge starts in motion the input charge.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com <RV6junkie(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, March 29, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: crossover exhaust
>
>In a message dated 3/28/99 9:21:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
>
>> Can someone explain the purpose of crossing over the exhaust system on
>> an RV-6?
>
>It has to do with power pulses and exhaust scavenging. By using a crossover
>exhaust you use low pressure created in one cylinder to "suck" the exhaust
>gases out of another cylinder while its exhaust valve is opened.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy Block Location (RV-6) |
I realize that the primary consideration for locating the rear of the canopy
frame is how the frame matches with the turtledeck. I *think* my frame is in
the correct location, but the pins at the rear of the frame are 1/2" to 3/4"
above the main longerons. Is this gonna be a problem?? Is there a "not to
exceed" height for how high the pins can be (And you could shim the blocks,
right?)?
Suggestions appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Van's catalog shows engine vibration mounts which seem very pricey. ($68
per pair, 4 pair required)
Question 1: Do mounts come in the finish kit?
Question 2: What if any, are other sources?
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy <ebundy(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Govener accesory pad |
I removed the governor mounting pad (no sense spinning that gear needlessly
& hauling around the weight) and covered it with a block off plate. The
local FBO gave me an old plate out of their "old plate box" free of charge.
Ed Bundy - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)cwix.com
http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 4:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Govener accesory pad
>
>I have an O-360-A1A and do not plan on using a constant speed prop. I
>have removed the oil line and plugged the holes and was wondering what
>to do with the governor mounting pad. Should I fabricate a blockoff
>plate for the where the governor would normally attach, or should I
>remove the governor mounting pad and associated gears and put a
>blockoff plate on the accessory case.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Block Location (RV-6) |
Mine were about 3/4 inch above the longerons. Keeping the rear of the canopy
low enough so that the rear skirts simply continue the F6112 "turtledeck" skin
makes them fit nicely.
hal
> I realize that the primary consideration for locating the rear of the canopy
> frame is how the frame matches with the turtledeck. I *think* my frame is in
> the correct location, but the pins at the rear of the frame are 1/2" to 3/4"
> above the main longerons. Is this gonna be a problem?? Is there a "not to
> exceed" height for how high the pins can be (And you could shim the blocks,
> right?)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
Answers: 1 - No. 2 - ACS for example but more expensive.
hal
> Van's catalog shows engine vibration mounts which seem very pricey. ($68
> per pair, 4 pair required)
>
> Question 1: Do mounts come in the finish kit?
> Question 2: What if any, are other sources?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: frivolous lawsuit |
> > Trying to manipulate our legal system to expand your trademark rights
> > for an engine monitoring instrument AFTER you decide to add fuel
> > monitoring to it, AND trying to bully a one-man company with the excuse
> > that he uses 4 letters of the alphabet that you use is unforgivable.
For therapy against this sort of thing, I recommend taking out the local
yellow pages, and tearing out all of the pages containing "attorneys". You
have to try it to believe how good it feels.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: crossover exhaust |
On Tue, 30 Mar 1999, Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> In addition to scavenging the exaust, it improves the intake charge. There
> is a period of time (valve overlap) where both valves are open. The
> scavenge starts in motion the input charge.
There was a really good article on exhaust tuning and engine performance
in "EAA Sport Aviation" magazine January 1997. It covered many different
types of exhaust system including the "crossover" exhaust. For those of
you who save your back issues of Sport Aviation, this is good reading.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Hi Everyone,
I'm at the point where I will want to mount my tires on the Cleveland
wheels soon. I am beginning on the finish kit of my 6A. With the current
discussion of wheel/gear shimmy problems and solutions, I have begun to wonder
whether I should plan to mount the tires myself or have an aircraft
maintenance facility mount and balance them for me-----or are their better
options that others have used to get them properly balanced. I asked my local
FBO about mounting and balancing them and got an estimate of 1.5 hours labor
charge to mount and balance EACH TIRE. At $45/hr, that's a lot more than I
had in mind!
I'm hoping that their is a better and cheaper way that someone has found
to get them properly done. I'm sure I would have no trouble mounting them
myself, but I'm not sure where to get them balanced. What have you guys ahead
of me done?
Thanks in advance for your ideas.
Dale Wotring
RV-6A N244DW (finish kit)
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tanks screws etc. |
Buster:
Where can a person bu Boelube?
Thanks
Gerald
Buster wrote:
>
> I was fitting the tanks on to see how well they position after all the
> sealing, etc.
> I found that a product like Boelube, (looks like a dry lubricant pasty
> powder)
> Do-all, (looks like bees wax) or best of all, a dab of Mastinox, (looks like
> a yellow custard) works like a charm to lube the screws very well so they
> drive in well and better yet, remove well, avoiding a lot of twisting and
> stripping of screws to seat them.
> Another little item from an auto parts store is little round rubber
> grommets all the way from 1/8" to 1/2" or more inside diameter, make for
> handy, cheap carry throughs for wires where you don't really want big
> honkin' holes for just one or two wires passing through a member or
> bulkhead...e.g. spar attach or whatever..just a thought...Buster.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Tanks screws etc. |
I bought mine from Avery Tools.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Where can a person bu Boelube?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Hi Dale,
Save your money and do it yourself. The hardest part is getting the tubes in those
little tiny tires. Use a little powder if you need to slick them up a little
bit, and be sure to align the valve with the colored dot on the outside of
the tire. That is supposed to provide the best balance. If you have a second
set of hands, that will make it very easy to get the 2 wheel halves together,
and start the bolts and nuts. Be careful not to pinch the tubes between the
halves, before you tighten the bolts down all the way. I have never pinched
one, but it looks like you will when you are stuffing all that tube in there.
Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
In a message dated 3/30/99 9:26:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, pagan(at)CBOSS.COM
writes:
<< Question 1: Do mounts come in the finish kit?
Question 2: What if any, are other sources? >>
No, they are not in the finish kit!
Other sources that I'm aware of are basically the same price.
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Does the valve stem go adjacent to the colored dot on the outside of the
tire, or opposite the colored dot?
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Save your money and do it yourself. ... be sure to align
the valve with the colored dot on the outside of the tire. That is supposed
to provide the best balance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Logging of Flight Test Data |
I need some information regarding logging of flight test operational and
performance data. Amateur-Built Aircraft And Ultralight Flight Testing
Handbook (AC 90-89A) indicates this data should be incorporated "into
the aircrafts flight manual so that the pilot can reference the data
prior to each flight."
Can, or should, the flight manual, pilots operating handbook, and the
operational limitations (the "O" in ARROW) be one document?
What entries should be made in the aircraft log regarding the test
flight phase? Sample entries? It seems aircraft log entries have to do
with the flight phase whereas the POH incorporates the flight test
data? Later reentry into flight test phase to document aerobatic
capabilities would entail two entries in the aircraft log, one for
entering and one for completion?
The POHs posted on the web by Gary V and Scott G seem to incorporate
most of the essentials determined by flight testing. It would seem that
one of these POHs can be modified with the figures for my airplane and
will meet the requirements of AC 90-89A? What are some of the more
important flight test data which should be included in the POH?
Thank you for comments and sample entries.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Landing gear pants/fairings & flight test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
lottmc(at)datasync.com wrote:
>
> Hi Dale,
> Save your money and do it yourself. The hardest part is getting the tubes in
those little tiny tires. Use a little powder if you need to slick them up a
little bit, and be sure to align the valve with the colored dot on the outside
of the tire. That is supposed to provide the best balance. If you have a second
set of hands, that will make it very easy to get the 2 wheel halves together,
and start the bolts and nuts. Be careful not to pinch the tubes between
the halves, before you tighten the bolts down all the way. I have never pinched
one, but it looks like you will when you are stuffing all that tube in there.
Good luck.
Dale -Put a little talcum powder inside the tire first and make sure it has been
brushed over all the interior of the tire. It serves to cut friction between
the tube and tire. I like to partially fill the tube with air before joining
the hub half's. There is less tendency for the folds in the tube to slide between
the hub half's this way. When you inflate the tire after you have assembled
the hubs, you may have to push the tube stem part way back into the hub the
help the air on the outside of the tube escape to atmosphere. I like to completely
fill the tire to 25# and then let all the air out and then refill again
to 28# just to
be sure that the tube gets a chance to move a little to reduce the chances of it
being folded over on itself.
I hope this helps.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
> << Question 1: Do mounts come in the finish kit?
> Question 2: What if any, are other sources? >>
>
> No, they are not in the finish kit!
>
> Other sources that I'm aware of are basically the same price.
>
> Bernie Kerr
> ---
One other source is your local FBO. I was given a set of good used mounts with
the silicone inserts for my installation. The price was right. I wiped then down
and they look just like new. I do have one half on a lower one that has started
to show surface cracking I wonder how long I ought to leave it before replacing
it. Anyone have any ideas? Who Knows - maybe my aviation friend will have
another mount I can get.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
> -Does the valve stem go adjacent to the colored dot on the outside of the
> tire, or opposite the colored dot?
>
> Steve Soule
Steve - the dot goes right beside the valve stem.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
It is very helpful to inflate the tube a little bit after getting it inside
of the tire before joining the rim halves. This is helpful to keep the
limp tube from dangling in between the rim halves where they join. Don't
inflate enough to stretch the tube, just take the slack out. After
torqueing the bolts, inflate to recommended pressure, then let all the air
out, then inflate back to normal pressure. This insures against pinching
the tube or wrinkling it.
My experience
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datasync.com |
| Subject: | Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Hi, Stephen,
I always put the dot right next to the stem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tanks screws etc. |
-----Original Message-----
From: gerric(at)agt.net <gerric(at)agt.net>
>Buster:
>Where can a person bu Boelube?
>Thanks
>Gerald
This excellent product, developed by Boeing (hence the name), was bought
from Aircraft Spruce..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tanks screws etc. |
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: gerric(at)agt.net <gerric(at)agt.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Buster:
>>Where can a person bu Boelube?
>>Thanks
>>Gerald
>
>
>This excellent product, developed by Boeing (hence the name), was bought
>from Aircraft Spruce..
>
>
>It can also be ordered from Avery Tools>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
To prevent pinching the tube between the wheel halves, just blow
a little air in the tube to make it doughnut shaped instead of
lying flat while you are bolting the wheel halves together. Also,
use a liquid hand soap to lubricate the bead of the tire so it
will easily slip up against the rim of the wheel when you air up
the tire. Over inflate the tire first, then bleed off to proper
air pressure.
Hope this helps.
Marshall Dues
RV-6 N243MD
199 hr
DWH arpt (Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
pagan wrote:
> Van's catalog shows engine vibration mounts which seem very pricey. ($68
> per pair, 4 pair required)
> Question 2: What if any, are other sources?
There is a non-certified version of these mounts available. Wicks
Aircraft Supply (See Yeller Pages) shows part number EM100-005 at 175.00
for complete set (4 Pairs). I did not know about this when I bought my
certified mounts. Otherwise, I probably would have given them a try.
From the picture in the catalog, they appear to be an exact copy of the
certified version (perhaps they are identical, except for paperwork?)
If you try these, let us know how they work out.
Blake Harral RV-4, Hope to be flying in June
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
Called J B ACFT engine for a part I needed and they said by the way we have
an IO360 A3B6D with all ACC encluding ring gear. 1700 smoh, 3600 TT. Came
off a monie no prop strikes. Dont know anything about this just passing
along the info.
Call 941 655 5000
RV6A/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
> Question 2: What if any, are other sources? >>
When I bought my engine from Central Air Parts, I asked them what they
might have on hand as far as engine mounts from the many aircraft they
dismantle. They are including a set of mounts in the crate. I have no
idea if they'll be serviceable or not, but at least it's worth a shot.
If they are deteriorated, I won't use them. If they look good, then
I'll be quite pleased! You might try calling them and see what they can
do for you.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
engine on the way...hoping the engine AND the mounts look good!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tanks screws etc. |
Many Bicycle shops also have it to protect the inside of steel bikes.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Buster <6430(at)axion.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tanks screws etc.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: gerric(at)agt.net <gerric(at)agt.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Buster:
>>Where can a person bu Boelube?
>>Thanks
>>Gerald
>
>
>This excellent product, developed by Boeing (hence the name), was bought
>from Aircraft Spruce..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
In a message dated 3/31/99 5:37:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< Does the valve stem go adjacent to the colored dot on the outside of the
tire, or opposite the colored dot? >>
Stem aligns with dot. The dot indicates the lightest area of the tire and the
stem is the heaviest area of the tube. However this may not completely
balance the assembly so one should always check the static balance by slowly
spinning the assy on the shaft and seeing if it always settles at a given
point. Balance weights may be added to the top as needed.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Logging of Flight Test Data |
>
>I need some information regarding logging of flight test operational and
>performance data. Amateur-Built Aircraft And Ultralight Flight Testing
>Handbook (AC 90-89A) indicates this data should be incorporated "into
>the aircrafts flight manual so that the pilot can reference the data
>prior to each flight."
>
>Can, or should, the flight manual, pilots operating handbook, and the
>operational limitations (the "O" in ARROW) be one document?
>The POHs posted on the web by Gary V and Scott G seem to incorporate
>most of the essentials determined by flight testing. It would seem that
>one of these POHs can be modified with the figures for my airplane and
>will meet the requirements of AC 90-89A? What are some of the more
>important flight test data which should be included in the POH?
>
>Thank you for comments and sample entries.
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
Will,
First, you are not required to comply with AC 90-89A, it is simply a
recommendation. But, I think it is a good recommendation, so I
encourage your efforts.
There is no reason why the flight manual, pilot's operating handbook
and the operational limitations could not be in the same document, in
fact that is the best approach in my opinion.
A good guide is to take a look at the pilot's operating handbook from
a newer Piper or Cessna (and I assume a Beech, I mean Raytheon, but I
am not familiar with those). These handbooks are done in a format
developed by GAMA, and they cover all the bases. I believe that the
POHs posted by GV and Scott G may be based on the same format, but I
cannot confirm that as my ancient version of Word chokes on them.
A good look at a GAMA format operating handbook will give you a list
of limitations, normal, abnormal and emergency procedures, systems
description and performance data to include. The complete list is
too long to practically include, plus I don't have a handbook home to
look at anyway. There is probably no need to do produce rigorous
take-off and landing performance charts, unless you want to operate
out of shorter strips at high airfield elevations. In that case I
might be able to dig up some rough generic corrections you could
apply to data from low altitude to give estimated hot and high
performance. Of course, I've got to finish working on the GPS flight
test notes I promised first :-) That'll be done soon, I promise,
maybe this weekend. My wife will be away for a few days, so I'll
have nothing to do except work in the RV, work on the computer, drink
beer and fly (not in that order).
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Any one in Florida interested in an RV6-6A empennage kit 90% complete? Also,
wing kit 90% complete, preview plans, plus manual. Delivered to your
"cottage" in Florida. The reason for sale is that I am switching back to my
RV3 project as soon as kits are available. Contact off line @ tmb1564(at)aol.com
or 561/466-3536.
Tom Benton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine inhibiting and Pre-Oilers |
> Then just before starting it preoil it.
How about the practice of cranking the engine a few seconds with mixture full
lean etc so that it doesn't start immediately?? Then, there is pulling it thru
by hand first.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Norway suing JPI and HP |
Hello fellow listers....this just in on the miswired WIRE.
Norway and Sweden are suing JPI over the use of the word "SCAN". They are
also suing Hewlett Packard (ScanJet) and movie producer David Cronenberg
(Scanners). Jorgy Lappbelt a spokesperson for the Ministry of Ridiculous
Lawsuits stated that they have been SCANdanavians for much longer than JPI
has been using the word SCAN. As partial settlement the SCANdanavians will
be require Mr Polizzotto to be equipped with antlers riveted to his head,
covered in reindeer pheremones and locked naked in a pen full of rutting
reindeers.
OK it's april 1 and I had my respirator on backwards while shooting
primer....but I'm not as lightheaded as Mr. Polizzotto from JPI.
below is a clip from the weekly AVweb post for those listers who don't get
AVweb (highly reccomended and free)
Rob Baxter
RV8 tail
==========snip==============
GOLIATH SUES DAVID...
This one's gotten way out of hand. AVweb has been watching a spat
between J.P. Instruments (JPI), which makes FAA-approved engine
monitoring devices for piston engines, and Matronics, a one-man company
selling a low-cost, uncertified fuel totalizer system popular with
builders of homebuilt aircraft. After weeks of threats, JPI has filed a
lawsuit against Matronics, contending that the latter's use of the
product name "FuelScan" infringes JPI's trademarked products.
...OVER USE OF THE WORD "SCANNER"
JPI's president Joseph Polizzotto contends that Matronics' FuelScan is
"confusingly similar" to JPI's Scanner, Smart Scanner and DigiScan
products. Matronics owner Matt Dralle says that JPI is improperly
trying to extend its trademark rights to all such products containing
the suffix "scan." Dralle says he does not have the resources to wage a
legal battle with JPI and is appealing to the homebuilder community for
help. Contact Dralle at and Polizzotto at
.
NOTE: AVweb's Newswire includes additional details on JPI's lawsuit
against Matronics.
===========snip===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
I wonder if this was meant as humor???
Someone wrote:
> I found a contradiction from the literature sent with CN-1(rear spar
> attachment/rear spar carry through mod) and CN-2(main spar mod). In CN-1 it
> state something like "enlarging the holes in the spar flange strips to the
> next bigger size will reduce the spar strength by 2%," something to that
> effect, and in CN-2, you are doing just that by drilling out the -4 rivets
> and replacing with -6, and putting in the AN-3 bolts for the angle?
>
I suspect that engineering calculations as to structure's strength differ from
physical testing actual strength by at least plus minus 5%. This is what
engineers call "specious precision" if I remember right.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> > Question 2: What if any, are other sources? >>
>
> When I bought my engine from Central Air Parts, I asked them what they
> might have on hand as far as engine mounts from the many aircraft they
> dismantle. They are including a set of mounts in the crate. I have no
> idea if they'll be serviceable or not, but at least it's worth a shot.
> If they are deteriorated, I won't use them. If they look good, then
> I'll be quite pleased! You might try calling them and see what they can
> do for you.
>
One thing you need to watch for is there are many different grades of
hardness to these mounts. Each part number represents a specific purpose.
Get the wrong ones and you will have a lot more vibration than you will
like. They also need to have a certain amount of hardness if you plan
on doing aerobatics.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 first flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for an RV6 Maintenance Schedule |
>Hi All
>
>In order for us to register RV's in our country, the Civil Aviation
>Authorities require a specific maintenance schedule for the aircraft.
>Please help. Does anyone have a basis that we can modify for use here.
>
>Kind Regards
>
>Gary F Wellock
>Tail Feathers
Gary,
Here's the one that I use. Hope it helps.
Bob Skinner RV-6 460 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
***********
INSPECTION REPORT Type of Inspection __________________
OWNER: _________________________
DATE: _________
MAKE: _________
HOURS: _________
"N" #: _________
SER. #: _________
DESCRIPTION
A. PROPELLER GROUP
1.______ Inspect spinner and back plate
2.______ Inspect blades for nicks and cracks
3.______ Check for grease and oil leaks
4.______ Lubricate propeller per lubrication chart
5.______ Check spinner mounting brackets
6.______ Check propeller mounting bolts and safety
7.______ Inspect hub parts for cracks and corrosion
B. ENGINE GROUP CAUTION: ground mags before working on engine
1.______ Remove engine cowl
2.______ Clean and check cowling for cracks, distortion and loose or missing
fasteners
3.______ Drain oil sump
4.______ Clean suction oil strainer at oil change
5.______ Clean pressure oil strainer or change full flow oil filter element
6.______ Check oil temp. sender for leaks and security
7.______ Check oil lines and fittings for leaks, chafing, security, dents
and cracks
8.______ Clean and check oil radiator cooling fins
9.______ Fill engine with oil per lubrication chart
10._____ Clean engine
11._____ Check condition of spark plugs, adjust gap to:______ clean, test,
rotate
12._____ Check ignition harness and insulators
13._____ Check magneto points for proper clearance maintain at .018 +- .006
14._____ Check magneto for oil seal leaks
15._____ Check breaker felt for proper lubrication
16._____ Check distributor block for cracks, burned areas or corrosion
17._____ Check magnetos to engine timing Left______ Right _______
18._____ Remove air filter and clean
19._____ Drain carburetor and clean inlet line fuel strainer
20._____ Check condition of carburetor heat air door and box
21._____ Check intake seal for leaks and clamps for tightness
22._____ Clean fuel screens
23._____ Clean and check gasolator
24._____ Inspect condition of fuel lines
25._____ Check fuel system for leaks
26._____ Check electric fuel pump for operation
27._____ Check engine controls throttle, carb heat, mixture, and prop
28._____ Inspect exhaust stacks, connections, gaskets
29._____ Inspect heat exchange, baffles and shrouds
30._____ Check breather tube for obstructions and security
31._____ Check crankcase for cracks, leaks, security of bolts
32._____ Check engine mounts for cracks and loose mountings
33._____ Check all engine baffles
34._____ Check firewall seals
36._____ Check condition and tension of alternator and drive belt
36._____ Check condition of starter
37._____ Check fluid in brake reservoir
38._____ Lubricate all controls
39._____ Inspect engine for general condition, loose parts, chafing, proper
safties and proper installation
40._____ Check condition of alternator
41._____ Check vacuum pump and lines
42._____ Compression check #1______ #2______ #3 ______ #4 ______ #5 ______
#6 ______
43._____ Grease starter gear with moly
44._____ Reinstall engine cowl
C. CABIN GROUP
1._____ Inspect canopy and windows
2._____ Check upholstery for tear
3._____ Check seats, seat belts, shoulder straps
4._____ Check trim operation
5._____ Check rudder pedals
6._____ Check control column, systems and connection
7._____ Check landing, nav, cabin, and instrument lights
8._____ Check instrument, lines and attachments
9._____ Check gyro operation, and electric turn and bank
10.____ Check or replace gyro air filter
11.____ Clean or replace vacuum regulator filter
12.____ Check altimeter
13.____ Check operation of fuel selector valve
14.____ Check operation of engine primer
15.____ Check condition of heater controls
16.____ Check condition and operation air vents
17.____ Check flap operation
18.____ Check fuel drains
19.____ Lubricate aileron, flap and elevator controls
20.____ Check general condition uder panel for loose wires, chafing, etc.
21.____ Check brake cylinders for operation and leaks
D. FUSELAGE AND EMPENNAGE GROUP
1._____ Remove inspection plates and panels
2._____ Check battery box, battery and cables
3._____ Check electronic installations
4._____ Check bulkheads and stringers for damage
5._____ Check antenna mounts and wiring
6._____ Check fuel lines and valves
7._____ Check vertical fin and rudder surfaces
8._____ Check rudder horn and attachment
9._____ Check vertical fin attachments
10.____ Check rudder bolts for wear
11.____ Check horizonal stabilizer and elevators
12.____ Check horizonal stabilizer attachment
13.____ Check elevator horn
14.____ Check elevator bolts for wear
15.____ Check elevator bell cranks and controls and trim system
16.____ Lubricate all bearings as needed
17.____ Check general condition of skin
18.____ Check doors, latches and hinges
19.____ Check wiring for damage and security
20.____ Check cables for damage, security and operation
21.____ Check cabin heater and controls
22.____ Service hydraulic brake system
23.____ Check drain holes in rudder bottom and fuselage
23.____ Reinstall inspection plates and panels
E. WING GROUP
1._____ Remove inspection plates and fairings
2._____ Check surfaces and tip for damage and loose rivets and condition of
walkways
3._____ Check aileron mounts and attachments
4._____ Check aileron bellcrank and control tubes
5._____ Check flaps and attachment for damages
6._____ Check all wing attachment bolts
7._____ Check fuel tanks and lines for leaks and chafing
8._____ Check fuel tank vents
9._____ Check pitot
10._____ Reinstall inspection plates
F. LANDING GEAR GROUP
1._____ Check nose gear travel and damper tightness
2._____ Check main gear attachments
3._____ Check tires for cuts and wear
4._____ Remove wheel, clean, and repack bearings COTTER PINS IN AXLES?
5._____ Check wheels for cracks, corrosion and broken bolts
6._____ Check tire pressure_____
7._____ Check brake lining and disc
8._____ Check brake lines
9._____ Check tailwheel assembly for integrity and grease tailwheel
G. OPERATIONAL INSPECTION
1._____ Check fuel pump and fuel tank selector
2._____ Check fuel pressure
3._____ Check oil pressure and temperature
4._____ Check alternator output
5._____ Check manifold pressure
6._____ Check alternate air
7._____ Check vacuum gauge
8._____ Check gyros for noise and roughness
9._____ Check Cabin heat operation
10.____ Check magneto switch operation
11.____ Check magneto RPM variation Left_____ Right_____ Run up rpm_______
12.____ Check throttle and mixture operation
13.____ Check propeller smoothness
14.____ Check electronic equipment operation: fuel gauges, tach, engine
instrumensts
15.____ Check ELT for operation and battery date
16.____ Check static rpms
17.____ Check idle rpms
H. GENERAL
1._____ A.D.s complied with
2._____ Manufacturers service letters complied with
3._____ Registration, Airworthiness Cerfificate, Operating Limitations
Signature_________________________ Certificate No.________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: LEADING EDGE |
>Perspective!
>The glider almost certainly has a laminar flow wing. Bugs on the
>leading
>edge would probably cause the same problem. Most of the original
>canard
>designs had this problem. The paint seam (or bugs) disrupts the
>laminar
>flow & kills the lift efficiency of the airfoil. Now note the paint on
>the RV-4 prototype. It's not laminar flow & isn't as sensitive to
>bugs,
>paint stripes, etc.
>
This is true, but...
If you look closely at the paint scheme on the proto RV-4 you will see
that the paint color change (mask line) is still quite a ways back from
the leading edge.
It is correct that an RV is not using a laminar flow airfoil (it uses the
23000 series like on a cub, actually it is a 23013.5)
This airfoil can have its stall characteristics effected by anything that
would act as a stall strip.
A paint mask line (particularly a heavy one) located at an inappropriate
location (somewhere close to the leading edge)can be as active as a
purposely installed stall strip. Please use caution when planning a
paint scheme.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com |
OK. I'll bite. Why do you need a certain amount of hardness for aerobatics.
AND What's the limit on the aerobatics using the normal engine mounts that
VAN's sell?
Paul Imhof, RV-8 on gear, tail attached.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Springer [mailto:jsflyrv(at)teleport.com]
One thing you need to watch for is there are many different grades of
hardness to these mounts. Each part number represents a specific purpose.
Get the wrong ones and you will have a lot more vibration than you will
like. They also need to have a certain amount of hardness if you plan
on doing aerobatics.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 first flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting and Balancing |
Hello again.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my tire mount and balance question.
I feel confident to go ahead and mount the tires myself now with the
directions you have given. I'll put them on the axles and see if they seem
out of balance or not by spinning them. If they appear to need balancing, I
think I'll see if a local tire store has equipment to balance tires and wheels
that size. I'll report back to the list if I find a good cheap way to get
them precision balanced. Its good to know that they don't really need to be
precision balanced, but if I find a cheap way to do it I'll probably do it.
Can't hurt.
This list is really a great resource! Thanks.
Dale Wotring
RV6A (finish kit)
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | David Clark Headset |
(2) David Clark headsets for sale Model H10-13.4 , in very good condition.
They are two years old. $ 140.00 each or $250.00 for the pair. Plus
shipping.
Tony Partain
Partain Trading Co Inc
314-894-0828
aviator(at)tseinc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com wrote:
>
>
> OK. I'll bite. Why do you need a certain amount of hardness for aerobatics.
> AND What's the limit on the aerobatics using the normal engine mounts that
> VAN's sell?
>
> Paul Imhof, RV-8 on gear, tail attached.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Springer [mailto:jsflyrv(at)teleport.com]
>
> One thing you need to watch for is there are many different grades of
> hardness to these mounts. Each part number represents a specific purpose.
> Get the wrong ones and you will have a lot more vibration than you will
> like. They also need to have a certain amount of hardness if you plan
> on doing aerobatics.
>
> Jerry Springer|RV-6 first flight 1989|Hillsboro, OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
>
Well just how much do you want your engine moving around when you are doing
aerobatics? Remember this is a rubber cushion, softer lets the engine shift
around under g loads. Van use to to list a specific number for lord mounts that
were a good combination for aerobatics and least amount of vibration. Since
I built my airplane he has started selling mounts and I don't know what they
are you would have to ask him. A good example was a RV-4 here locally that
had a very bad vibration problem and no matter what was done it could not be
fixed this included all the prop balancing methods. It was finally figured
out that it had the wrong mounts. If Mike Segar reads this he could comment
more as he helped with this airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
> I wonder if this was meant as humor???
Hal-
I found no humor in this whatsoever for several reason, maybe you'll agree?
I wrote this back when one RV-3 builder had elongated a hole after drilling
the spar flange -4 rivet out to 3/16" and was asking about the possibilities
of going to the next size larger hole, or a larger rivet/AN4 bolt.
I did not have the document in front me when I wrote this, and now I do out
of curiosity and to disprove any "humor" in all of this, and will quote Vans
aircraft and CN-1 (February 1982):
"INSPECTION POINTS:
Following is a list of possible errors in the construction of an RV-3 wing
which can have an appreciable effect on its strength. Presence of any one
or more of these errors will result in a reduction in strength and the RV-3
will not meet 6-G limit load aerobatics requirements at a gross weight of
1050 lbs. Therefore, it should not be re-designated an RV-3A. By
definition, an RV-3A is one built in strict compliance with VAN'S AIRCRAFT
RV-3 plans and has been modified in accordance with VAN'S AIRCRAFT CN-1.
Thus, any RV-3 with a known structural deviation, whether included in the
following list or not, should not be re-designated as RV-3A:"
(items 1-3 skipped.)
"4. Substitution of larger than 1/8" rivets in the spar flange strip
attachment will result in reduced strength. If a 3/16" bolt or rivet is
substituted, a strength loss of up to 6% will result."
(items 5-7 skipped.)
NOW, on to the main spar mod (January 1997), called CN-2(CN-2-I for type-I
early pre-1984 wings/spar, and CN-2-II for post 1984 wings/spars):
"The CN-2-I modifications supplements the CN-1 modifications, but does not
supersede or replace it. Both are necessary to achieve aerobatics strength.
Each addresses a different part of the wing structure. If any RV-3 has not
yet been modified in accordance with CN-1, this needs to be performed before
or in conjunction with CN-2-I."
Okay, to give the Readers Digest summary of CN-2-I:
- Drill out all of the 1/8"/-4 rivets in the inner row of the staggered -4
rivet pattern on the lower spar flange strips between ribs 1-6.
- Enlarge the 1/8"(#30) holes to 3/16" and replace with -6 (3/16") rivets
(now, myself and several other RV-3ers have, through coordinating with VAN's
for engineering approval, substituted AN3 bolts for the -6 rivets in this
application).
- Drill out three 1/8"/-4 rivets in the upper spar flange strips between
ribs 1-6 and enlarge holes to 3/16" (with some minor differences between
ribs 1-2).
- Cut and fit 1x1.250x.125 6061-T6 stiffener angle between ribs and attach
to the upper spar flange strips with AN3 bolts through the three enlarged
holes, repeating between ribs 2-6, and also in fuselage outward of the 4130
steel splice plates (Ribs 1-2 gets 1.250x1.250.125 angle).
- Cut and fit .063 and/or .040 2024 T3 sheet to cover lightning holes and
pop rivet to spar web covering holes with MSP-42 pop rivets or AN470AD4-5
rivets.
Okay. Can you see where the contradicting and confusing data is? CN-1
states that a 6% loss of strength can occur if you replace the 1/8"/-4
rivets with -6 rivets and/or AN3 bolts. Where CN-2-II says that you are to
replace all of the lower spar flange 1/8"/-4 rivets with 3/16"/-6 and/or AN3
bolts! And in addition to that, add the three AN3 bolts between each rib to
hole on the angle stiffeners!
> I suspect that engineering calculations as to structure's
> strength differ from
> physical testing actual strength by at least plus minus 5%. This is what
> engineers call "specious precision" if I remember right.
I've rarely seen anything that I work with have a slosh factor of more than
+/- .5-1%, with real slop being around 1.5-2%. I'll check with several
close friends (one formal structural design engineer at Boeing for 777 and
Bell helicopter, the other was former structures at Rockwell, Cessna,
Beechcraft, and test pilot for Lear) and see what they think a 5% loss would
amount to in this application. . curious.
Well, maybe that's not much, but it's enough to make me want to correct for
the 5% loss of strength when it's my ass strapped into the seat and nobody
else's!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Wing Mods |
Rob Reece wrote:
>
> - Cut and fit 1x1.250x.125 6061-T6 stiffener angle between ribs and attach
> to the upper spar flange strips with AN3 bolts through the three enlarged
> holes, repeating between ribs 2-6, and also in fuselage outward of the 4130
> steel splice plates (Ribs 1-2 gets 1.250x1.250.125 angle).
>
> - Cut and fit .063 and/or .040 2024 T3 sheet to cover lightning holes and
> pop rivet to spar web covering holes with MSP-42 pop rivets or AN470AD4-5
> rivets.
>
> Okay. Can you see where the contradicting and confusing data is? CN-1
> states that a 6% loss of strength can occur if you replace the 1/8"/-4
> rivets with -6 rivets and/or AN3 bolts. Where CN-2-II says that you are to
> replace all of the lower spar flange 1/8"/-4 rivets with 3/16"/-6 and/or AN3
> bolts! And in addition to that, add the three AN3 bolts between each rib to
> hole on the angle stiffeners!
Rob,
I'm not familiar with the RV-3 internal wing structure, but here is what
I surmise from your posting of the excerpts from the change notices:
First, Van's claims a strength reduction by using larger rivets. This
makes sense for a joint loaded in tension (normal case for the lower
spar flange), because the larger hole removes load bearing material.
The analysis for the compression case (upper spar flange) is more
complex, but I suspect the strength reduction is less.
Second, Van's instructs you to use a larger fastener on both the top and
bottom flange strips, but angle is added to the top flange strips. For
the top flange strips, presumably this extra angle material more than
makes up for the loss of strength in the flange strips due to the larger
holes. In other words the _assembly_ that makes up the top spar cap is
now stronger than the original, even though some the original parts were
weakened.
The bottom spar flange has had the holes enlarged, but no additional
material has been added, so it _will_ have reduced strength per the
notes in CN-1
So it appears Van has strengthened the upper spar cap, while slightly
weakening the lower spar cap. The strengthening of the upper spar caps,
plus the covering of the lightening holes seem to suggest that Van is
trying to prevent the buckling of the upper surface of the wing, due to
high positive G-loads.
Why 'weaken' the lower spar cap in process? I'm not sure, but if it is
necessary to disassemble the spar for these modifications, perhaps this
is the best solution to the oversize/elongated holes that would probably
result from such disassembly. The resulting reduction in strength may
be perfectly acceptable in the lower spar cap, if the original design
had 'excess' strength in this part.
I'm not a structural engineer, nor am I privy to Van's calculations. I
did want to point out that it entirely possible that Van's modifications
are sensible, even with the apparent contradictions. Your desire for
more information is understandable, I would like to know more of the
details myself. Perhaps someone at Van's can address this.
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
<-- a bunch of stuff snipped-->
>Okay. Can you see where the contradicting and confusing data is? CN-1
>states that a 6% loss of strength can occur if you replace the 1/8"/-4
>rivets with -6 rivets and/or AN3 bolts. Where CN-2-II says that you are to
>replace all of the lower spar flange 1/8"/-4 rivets with 3/16"/-6 and/or AN3
>bolts! And in addition to that, add the three AN3 bolts between each rib to
>hole on the angle stiffeners!
>
>> I suspect that engineering calculations as to structure's
>> strength differ from
>> physical testing actual strength by at least plus minus 5%. This is what
>> engineers call "specious precision" if I remember right.
>
>I've rarely seen anything that I work with have a slosh factor of more than
>+/- .5-1%, with real slop being around 1.5-2%. I'll check with several
>close friends (one formal structural design engineer at Boeing for 777 and
>Bell helicopter, the other was former structures at Rockwell, Cessna,
>Beechcraft, and test pilot for Lear) and see what they think a 5% loss would
>amount to in this application. . curious.
>
>Well, maybe that's not much, but it's enough to make me want to correct for
>the 5% loss of strength when it's my ass strapped into the seat and nobody
>else's!
>Rob Reece
Bob,
I can certainly understand your concern to make sure this is done
right. But, hasn't Van done static testing on a modded RV-3 wing
that showed that the desired strength is achieved? Have there been
any inflight breakups of RV-3s with CN-1 and CN-2-II?
Van is the guy with the answers to your questions on inconsistencies
between CN-1 and CN-2-II. Anything you get off us bozos is worth
what you've paid for it ;-)
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mounts |
In a message dated 3/31/99, 3:00:21 PM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
Engine mounts are typically changed when an engine is removed or replaced.
Although they might look serviceable, time does harden the material and they
do a poorer job of isolating vibration. I would always opt for new mounts,
especially on a new aircraft.
Its one of those things that you don't realize that they were worn until you
replace them and suddenly things are smoother.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Wing Mods |
Hi Rob,
I'll retract my earlier posting regarding using a file to move the 1/8" holes in
the lower spar cap before drilling to 3/16 rivits, to ensure proper edge
clearance. Not needed, as the upper (inner) part of the lower spar cap is in
compressing during positive G loads.
I don't believe that CN-2 promises full -6 G's.
Finn
Rob Reece wrote:
> - Drill out all of the 1/8"/-4 rivets in the inner row of the staggered -4
> rivet pattern on the lower spar flange strips between ribs 1-6.
>
> - Enlarge the 1/8"(#30) holes to 3/16" and replace with -6 (3/16") rivets
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8;Observations |
Now that I have a few more hours on my RV-8, I have a few more things to
mention. As I posted before, I had a left wing heavy tendency, even with
the manual trim in full right position. Jerry VanGrunsven (no connection
with Vans Aircraft) came down at my request and 'sqeezed' the right
aileron trailing edge slightly, until the aileron followed a ruler layed
on it. While we expected to need two or three flights to get it right, I
flew the airplane and lo and behold, it was now perfect! Jerry was in
formation with me (with his RV-4) and when I told him he got it perfect,
he didn't believe me and asked me to put my arms up to prove it! It is
hard to believe that just that little bit of 'messaging' of the aileron
resulted in this much change! Jerry gave me a complete 'short course' on
how to do this, and how to determine whether to sqeeze, or to 'fatten'
the aileron leading edge, and I will post that in a separate post soon
for the benefit of all. Another observation; All three of the RV-8's
built on this field have had a wing left turning tendency, as well as
requiring a tab on the rudder because of having to hold slight right
March 25, 1999 - April 01, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gq