RV-Archive.digest.vol-gt
April 16, 1999 - April 24, 1999
The power also varies with temperature. The note on this power chart
gives an approximate variation of 1% for each 10 deg F variation from
standard temperature.
So, apply this rule of thumb with care. It is a quick and dirty rule
of thumb, not an accurate replacement for a power chart.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
>
>Check the archives on this but the rule of thumb is as follows:
>
>Take 10% of the rpm and add it to the manifold pressure. For example if you
>were turning 2500 rpm with a MP of 23.0 you would get a total of 48. 48 is
>the magic number in that it represents 75% power. Each change of 3 in the
>total number is a 10% change in power. So:
>
>51 = 85%
>48 = 75%
>45 = 65%
>42 = 55%
>
>Hope this helps
>Gary Corde
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Delsman <bobld(at)open.org> |
| Subject: | Letter Abreviations |
I have been reading the list for quite some time, and one thing really
buggs me. What do all the abreviations mean? I guess I am just not too
with it because I don't seem to be able to figure them out.
Examples: IMO, IMHO, BTW, FWIW BW, YMMV, IIRC, YTQ,...etc????.
Thanks, The info on the list is generally very good. I admire some of
the intellect present.
Bob Delsman, an rv wanna be near Salem, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cable Length |
Peter, My -6A has O-320-H2AD, otherwise same as your setup. Carb
location may be different...mine is left of center near rear. I am
using four-foot cables from Spruce for both the mixture and throttle and
they work fine with my custom throttle bracket...a little extra length
was easy to accept. I got vernier on both cables...will not get vernier
on the throttle on my next airplane. I suggest you not order custom
lengths if avoidable so that you may return the item.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Flight test
>
> Would like to know throttle/mixture cable lengths used for the following
> setup. RV6 tilt canopy with O-320-D2J, controls mounted horizontally
> under instrument panel. The cables run overtook of the battery box just
> right of center (passenger side) and connect to a Cessna 172 bracket. My
> best measurement so far is 43 1/2 inches.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Letter Abreviations |
>
>I have been reading the list for quite some time, and one thing really
>buggs me. What do all the abreviations mean? I guess I am just not too
>with it because I don't seem to be able to figure them out.
>
>Examples: IMO In My Opinion
, IMHO In My Humble Opinion
, BTW, By The Way
FWIW For What It's Worth
BW, ???
YMMV Your Mileage May Vary,
IIRC If I Recall Correctly
, YTQ,..?????
.etc????.
>
>Thanks, The info on the list is generally very good. I admire some of
>the intellect present.
>
>Bob Delsman, an rv wanna be near Salem, OR
>
>
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Getting Slosh out. |
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Peeling Slosh
Hi Guys,
I have checked the archives for this and there is not a whole lot there
that I could find.
I discovered this spring while getting YTQ ready for another flying season
(the snow is all gone) that I seem to be developing the dreaded peeling
slosh problem, this the the white slosh that was suppost to be auto fuel
compatable that van sold about 5 years ago. Looking in the filler whole on
one tank, I can see a line of slosh that was a dribble has peeled from the
top of the tank and is hanging down about an inch, it is still attached to
the rest of the slosh and with my finger I can determine that this slosh is
still firmly attached. < SNIP >
Last summer while the wings were temporarily attached to my upside down
fuselage to drill the gear mounts. We took the tanks off to give us the
room to drill. I have one tank that was 7 years old with slosh and the
other is 6 years old without slosh. In several posts and articles the slosh
had been a problem in spite of careful preperation of the metal. So...I did
the big "Nasty" and other than time it wasn't too difficult.
Supplies needed: 1 gal of MEK
1 or more pairs of kitchen type gloves
2 or more plastic pan scrubbers without
sponges
Lots of paper towels.
Order new Pro Seal (or whatever) and enough
sheet to make covers (I used the same thickness as the baffel) plenty of
blind pop rivets.
Procedure is to mark a large circle on the back baffel for each bay. Make
it big enough to easily get your hand inside but leave room for good rivet
edge distance for the pop rivets. I tried using a hand held fly cutter for
about 1.2 seconds and then switched to plan B. I purchased a small fluted
bit for my Dremel like tool. I drilled a small hole near the circle mark
and then used the Dremel to cut the circle. It doesn't have to be pretty
'cause you're going to cover it any way. Be sure to smooth the edges with a
buffing wheel on a die grinder or even just emory cloth. The root end bay
can be cleaned through the access cover on the rib so you are only cutting
three circles.
Now comes the fun part. My 7 year old slosh was extremely soluble to the
MEK. I used the paper towels to apply it, scrubbed with the plastic
scrubbee and wiped with new paper towels...repeat till clean. Lots of paper
towels. I used 3 rolls of towels from a four roll Costco pack. The only
area I couldn't get really clean was the slosh on the pro-seal but even some
of that came off easily. The rest of the metal got really clean with
repeated solvent application. Total time was about 10 hours (and I work
sloooowly...nine years and counting). When I tested the tank afterwards not
a drop or leak was found at the baffel site. I know there are people who
have slosh that is >10 years old and not a problem but I think I'll fly more
relaxed knowing that possible hazzard is not about to bite me.
Good Luck. Bob Kellar rjkellar(at)softcom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Letter Abreviations |
Bob: Look at the following: http://www.rollanet.org/chat/acronyms.html....Jim
Brown,Matawan,NJ RV-3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Letter Abreviations |
FYI..... the "YTQ" in Joe Hines list question is the last three letters in
his Canadian Registration for his RV. ( I Think ) The rest are below FEI.
(For Everyones Information). AL
>Acronym Definition
>AFAIK As far as I know
>AFK Away from keyboard
>AKA Also known as
>AOL America OnLine
>ASAP As soon as possible
>ATM At the moment
>B4 Before
>BAK Back at keyboard
>BBL Be back later
>BCNU Be seeing you
>BFN Bye for now
>BRB Be right back
>BTW By the way
>CFV Call for votes
>CU See you
>CUL See you later
>CUL8R See you later
>DYJHIW Don't you just hate it when...
>*eg* Evil grin
>F2F Face to face (also meeting in person)
>FAQ Frequently asked questions
>FWIW For what it's worth
>FYA For your amusement
>FYI For your information
>G2P Gone to P... Usually followed by BRB
>*g* Grin
>GA Go ahead
>*gbh* Great big hug
>*gbh&k* Great big hug & kiss
>*gr&d* Grinning, running, & ducking
>*h* Hug
>*hb* Hug back
>HHOJ Ha ha only joking
>HHOK Ha ha only kidding
>HHOS Ha ha only serious
>HIWTH Hate it when that happens
>IAE In any event
>IDK I don't know
>IMHO In my humble opinion
>IMnerHO In my not even remotely humble opinion
>IMnsHO In my not so humble opinion
>IMO In my opinion
>IOW In other words
>IRL In real life
>IYKWIM If you know what I mean
>JASE Just another system error
>JK Just kidding (can also stand for joking)
>*k* Kiss
>*kb* Kiss back
>L8R Later
>*l* Laugh
>*li* Laughing inside
>*lis* Laughing in silence
>*lol* Laugh out loud
>NRN No reply necessary
>OBTW Oh, by the way
>OIC Oh I see
>OT Off topic
>OTOH On the other hand
>OTTH On the third hand
>PD Public domain
>PMJI Pardon me, Jumping in (when you interrupt a conversation)
>PMFJI Pardon me for jumping in (same as above)
>REHI Hello again
>RFD Request for discussion
>*rofl* Roll on floor laughing
>RSN Real soon now
>RTM Read the manual
>*s* Smile
>*sb* Smiles back
>SITD Still in the dark
>SOS Same old stuff
>SSDD Same stuff different day
>SW Shareware
>SYL See you later
>TANSTAAFL There ain't no such thing as a free lunch
>TGIF Thank God it's Friday
>TIA Thanks in advance
>*tic* Tongue in cheek
>TNX Thanks
>TNX 1.0E6 Thanks a million
>TTFN Ta-ta for now
>TTYL Talk to you later
>*veg* Very evil grin
>*ves* Very evil smile
>*vwg* Very wicked grin
>*vws* Very wicked smile
>*w* Wink
>*wg* Wicked grin
>WRT With regard to (also with respect to)
>WTH What the heck
>WYSIWYG What you see is what you get
>YMMV Your mileage may vary
>YMMVG Your mileage may vary greatly
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Bob,
I've lost your email address, but to answer your question about seat
production time, I am currently running about 6-8 weeks. Please let me know
if I can help you.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Web page update |
Listers,
I've added another set of fuselage/finish kit pics (including pics of
the engine) to my webpage. They may be viewed at:
http://www.geocities.com:80/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage4.html
Happy building!
Brian Denk
RV8 N95BD
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | hs 606 outboard rib trim (cut away) |
the plans on the hs say to trim outboard 1/8 inch for fiber attach but i
see nothin in directions. when i pece together (ahead of plans) all
seems to fit perfectly. any suggestions???? bob in arknasas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hs 606 outboard rib trim (cut away) |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
>
> the plans on the hs say to trim outboard 1/8 inch for fiber attach but i
> see nothin in directions. when i pece together (ahead of plans) all
> seems to fit perfectly. any suggestions???? bob in arknasas
>
>
Bob,
What are you building(-6 or -8) and which plans sheet # are you refering
to? I'm building a -6 and don't see any mention of trimming 1/8" off
the HS606. The HS skin needs to overhang the HS606 1/2" for fiberglass
fairing to attach. Maybe it's saying if you don't have the 1/2", trim
the HS606 flange back a little. If you did do that, you would to make
sure to keep edge-distance on the skin rivets in the HS606 flange.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
If you would like to see some of these qualitly seats, you may see some of
Becki's work at
http://members.home.net/rv8er/interior.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 3:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV Seats
>
> Bob,
> I've lost your email address, but to answer your question about
seat
>production time, I am currently running about 6-8 weeks. Please let me
know
>if I can help you.
>
>Becki Orndorff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | hs 610-614 question |
plans say to have these two pieces 3 1/4 inches apart and must be
exact. when i riveted to front spar and double checked i am 1/32 off (3
5/32) distance apart. someone PLEASE tell me i am ok. thanx, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | 8A Gear Question |
Just received my Fuselage kit. Inventoried kit, I was short 6 RV8A, parts,
but was given (8) RV8 specific parts.
Regarding the main gear there should be a left & a right part.
Does anyone know how to tell the difference. I want to make sure I have the
both a left & a right. The part inventory states 2 different part numbers. I
can't see a visible difference in the parts I received.
Just finished installing the wing tips & the RMD Wing Tip Lighting System.
IMHO worth the cost, It is nice.
Thanks.......Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | S-N-F Sam Buchanan report |
Sam Buchanan has another informative report on SnF at his website. Here is
copy of his comments on Bohannan's new extreme plane. I'm not sure Van see's
this in the same light as Sam.
>> However.........the biggest promotional coup for Van was parked nearby in
the Mattituck tent. Bruce Bohannan, of Pushy Galore fame, introduced an RV on
steroids to replace the little yellow dart as he pursues new record flights.
The advertising Vans will receive from this campaign will be immeasurable!
As best I could tell from a casual visit, the new plane has a combination
RV4/RV8 fuse, an RV3 sliding canopy, RV wings, and a mega-hp 540 Lycoming for
motivation. It was mentioned that there was lots of room to stow nitro
bottles for serious cruising! This plane was flown several times even though
it is early in the development stage. Could this be the forerunner of an
RV12?? <<
Another comment on Tracy Crook's engine. Tracy is nearing 1000 hours on this
engine and Van makes some favorable comments on it.
>>Back on the flightline, I caught up with Tracy Crook's Mazda-powered RV.
The placard on the plane mentioned that the total cost of the installation
was around $5000; However, it was obvious that many hours had been spent in
R&D. Time will tell whether or not the Mazda becomes a viable alternative
powerplant.<<
Another RV variant which has been around awhile is the
four-place.....whatever. I suspect that if Van designs a four-place, it will
not follow this example.
All should not be serious and educational at a great fly-in. Tim and I
decided to hop a ride in the 1929 Standard biplane Tuesday evening, and the
short ride was a great prelude to the night-time aerobatic/firework show that
night.
Sunset is a special moment at an airport that every pilot treasures
regardless of flight-time. The balloons were getting ready for their "glow",
and the sun was a huge orange ball sinking into a hazeless horizon.
Not only did we get a great view of the area, but it was obvious our pilot
was enjoying the last flight of the day. I glanced over to see a Pitts pull
up to fly formation with us, and then we were treated to some nice, smooth
wingovers by our shy, withdrawn host.
Sun-N-Fun was good this year. The weather cooperated and resulted in a great
turnout of aircraft. Make plans for next year, and drop by to say hello to us
at N399SB!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Back to "The RV Journal" front page
Please submit all questions and comments to sbuc(at)traveller.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8A Gear Question |
If you take a close look at the very bottom of the gear you should be able to
see the difference between the two.
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Forward skin |
I'm fitting the F-820 forward side skins. There is a pre-punch hole in the
bottom, aft location for a rivet into the 804 section. However, the F804F
center section bar will interfer with a rivet here. The plans call for a
MSP-42P rivet. I got MSP-42's with my kit but no "-42P"'s.
What is an MSP-42P and how will it rivet these parts with the F-804 section
in the way??
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie Abbott" <ldabbott(at)dryden.net> |
ea82 sitting on my desk ready to use. Reiner Hoffman swears against them.
Dave Johnson doesn't respong to my e-mails. But according to him there are
several people in Canada using them.
Is there there anyone on this list that uses an EA82? Have you had any
problems or concerns? How happy are you with it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: hs 610-614 question |
>
>plans say to have these two pieces 3 1/4 inches apart and must be
>exact. when i riveted to front spar and double checked i am 1/32 off (3
>5/32) distance apart. someone PLEASE tell me i am ok. thanx, bob
>
>
You may have to trim the skin side edges of one or both of those
angles for the skin to fit properly but I doubt it. Believe me, 1/32"
is not really that much off.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Letter Abreviations |
Al Mojzisik wrote
> FYI..... the "YTQ" in Joe Hines list question is the last three letters
in
> his Canadian Registration for his RV. ( I Think )
Al you are correct, my registration is C-FYTQ, all candian aircraft
registrations start with C-F___ or C-G___ , ultralights are C-I___ .
Always four letters after the C. You might see some older aircraft that
still have CF- followed by three letters.
And Al, from your very extensive list of acronyms, I'd say you spend far
too much time on your computer. :-)
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Letter Abreviations |
For everyones information I just copied that list from from the website
that was posted by Jim Brown and pasted it into an E-mail and sent it to
the list for everyones future reference. Total time taken about a minute or
two and I hope it's useful. I learned a lot from it! Thanks for your
concern though. Al
>
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote
>
>> FYI..... the "YTQ" in Joe Hines list question is the last three letters
>in
>> his Canadian Registration for his RV. ( I Think )
>
>Al you are correct, my registration is C-FYTQ, all candian aircraft
>registrations start with C-F___ or C-G___ , ultralights are C-I___ .
>Always four letters after the C. You might see some older aircraft that
>still have CF- followed by three letters.
>
>And Al, from your very extensive list of acronyms, I'd say you spend far
>too much time on your computer. :-)
>
>
>Joe Hine
>C-FYTQ RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | "NEW" Electronics International Tach FS |
I have (1) New In The Box, Electronics International Tach for a 4 cylinder
Lycoming engine. This unit sells new for $405.00 from Chief Aircraft. The
first $300.00 takes it. Guaranteed satisfaction that this is a new and
unused unit or your money back. Precision RPM instrument with 210 degree
analog display & full 4 digit digital display. Analog display gives RPM
information at a glance; green or red LED's help determine operation in
normal, or restricted range. Digital display gives RPM in 10 RPM increments.
Total Tach time, flight timer, peak RPM. Works with mags, CDI & Auto
ignitions.
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV 95 hours ttsn
Rocky Mount, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers,
Team Rocket would like to thank all of you who visited us at Sun n Fun!! We
had a fantastic show. If you missed us, we were in the Exxon Tent with Bruce
Bohannon's Flying Tiger and Mattituck's RV4. We want to thank everyone who
visited us there to see our F-1 Rocket, or to see the parts that we offer
that can be used on RVs. We will be posting periodically on the Rocket List
as to our progress on the build of our proto as well as putting pictures on
our website (www.matronics.com/rocket).
Thanks for making our first show a success!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Miller <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | HELP!!!hs 610-614 angle spacing, my first booboo??? tell me no, |
please!!!
the plans say 3 1/4 inches and "must be correct" between these 2 during
the fab. of the front hs spar. in previous post i said when i riveted,
sorry when i clecoed to rivet i checked and see i am over 1/32. they
are 3 5/32 apart. now when i unclecoed and slid in rivets i can see a
movement of at least a 1/32 with rivets in hole (but not riveted). am i
ok?????????????? it seems to me that if there is a variance of 1/32
during the rivet process then...i could hand push these two closer
together during actual rivet process and come out about right. or shave
of 1/64 from each angle. HELP bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | it's me Bob not Mitch |
bro in law uses and changes name in preferences time to time. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8, aft longerons |
It's official, I screwed up :-)
I tried to put the aft longerons in place today, and found that I only
had a piece long enough for 1 of the 2 needed. I can't find the
original warning sheet that came with the wing kit, but I was under the
impression that the top longerons were the only ones that couldn't be
cut before they were needed. There's enough total angle length for what
I need, but not 2- 104" pieces. Guess what I won't be doing tomorrow on
my only full day to work on the plane this week. Rats!
Options,
1- Try to find angle stock locally. Fortunately, there are lots of
aviation activities around Pensacola, FL. Maybe an aircraft supply
house can sell me what I need.
2- Splice (groan) two pieces together for one of the longerons.
3- Order from someone and bend over for the shipping charges.
Any opinions will be gladly accepted. I'm really interested to know if
the original sheet that came with the wing kit warned you to leave 2
pieces of .063 X 3/4 X 3/4 angle available for the aft longerons
(F-889). I'm trying to decide if I should be mad at Van's for not
warning me, or at myself for failing to RTFM.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (pissed at longerons)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | hole (rivet) to edge spacing |
how far is acceptable to have a rivet from edge. looking at tounge and
610. i have 1/8 hole and a distance of more than 1/4 inch from the
center of hole to edge (tounge). is this what is meant by 2 times the
diameter from center of hole to edge?? in other words 1/8 dia hole
should have at least 1/4 distance from center of hole to edge?? gettin
too picky again aren't i??? thanx guys for all the advise, bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8, aft longerons |
>
>Any opinions will be gladly accepted. I'm really interested to know if
>the original sheet that came with the wing kit warned you to leave 2
>pieces of .063 X 3/4 X 3/4 angle available for the aft longerons
>(F-889). I'm trying to decide if I should be mad at Van's for not
>warning me, or at myself for failing to RTFM.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (pissed at longerons)
Option 4: Call Vans and see if they are shipping a wing kit to anyone in
your area soon and have them include an extra angle for you and save the
shipping charges.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a getting ready to bend my first longeron
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8, aft longerons |
>
>Any opinions will be gladly accepted. I'm really interested to know if
>the original sheet that came with the wing kit warned you to leave 2
>pieces of .063 X 3/4 X 3/4 angle available for the aft longerons
>(F-889). I'm trying to decide if I should be mad at Van's for not
>warning me, or at myself for failing to RTFM.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (pissed at longerons)
Option 4: Call Vans and see if they are shipping a wing kit to anyone in
your area soon and have them include an extra angle for you and save the
shipping charges.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a getting ready to bend my first longeron
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hole (rivet) to edge spacing |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 7:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: hole (rivet) to edge spacing
>
> how far is acceptable to have a rivet from edge. looking at tounge and
> 610. i have 1/8 hole and a distance of more than 1/4 inch from the
> center of hole to edge (tounge). is this what is meant by 2 times the
> diameter from center of hole to edge?? in other words 1/8 dia hole
> should have at least 1/4 distance from center of hole to edge?? gettin
> too picky again aren't i??? thanx guys for all the advise, bob in
> arkansas
Yep, hole center to edge is the 2D, and remember that this is a MINIMUM. I
would strongly recommend getting the 43.13 publication (buildersbooks has it
for one) which gives all this good stuff in excruciating detail. You will
find that this distance is pushed hard in some places. Van's mentioned that
this applies to sheet metal, not necessarily to big thick stuff like angle.
The minimums are a good guide for when you are trimming big skins, and the
like. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK qb6 controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8, aft longerons |
>I tried to put the aft longerons in place today, and found that I only
>had a piece long enough for 1 of the 2 needed
[snip]
>1- Try to find angle stock locally. Fortunately, there are lots of
>aviation activities around Pensacola, FL. Maybe an aircraft supply
>house can sell me what I need.
If there are aviation places as you say then you should be able to find the
angle. Make sure it is the "aviation" stock, which has a radiused inside
corner, as opposed to h/w store type which is square.
>2- Splice (groan) two pieces together for one of the longerons.
No. It may work but you'd hate yourself for it and worry about it forever.
> I'm trying to decide if I should be mad at Van's for not
> warning me, or at myself for failing to RTFM.
Relax. Nobody's perfect, that includes both you and Van's. :-)
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empenahe kit for sale |
Empenage kit for the RV-6A for sale. Included are: Electronic elevator trim
kit
Jig made out of 4" X 4" aluminum square tubing 2-8ft pcs and 1-109"pcs.
Total price $900.00
Regards,
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenahe kit for sale |
Hi Stan,
Where are you located?
Dave
THEZING3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Empenage kit for the RV-6A for sale. Included are: Electronic elevator trim
> kit
> Jig made out of 4" X 4" aluminum square tubing 2-8ft pcs and 1-109"pcs.
> Total price $900.00
>
> Regards,
> Stan Z
> THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Completed RV6/6A enpennage |
I have a completed RV6/6A enpennage FOR SALE. Excellant workmanship,
balanced, primed inside and out. Also have plans and builders manual. Why
spend all those months building when for a few dollers more you can have it
readt to go. Contact George at (352)-799-0922 or "george(at)atlantic.net"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hs 610-614 question |
You're fine.................press on.
Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 8:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: hs 610-614 question
>
>plans say to have these two pieces 3 1/4 inches apart and must be
>exact. when i riveted to front spar and double checked i am 1/32 off (3
>5/32) distance apart. someone PLEASE tell me i am ok. thanx, bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Denk <cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: wire harness and busses |
> >Bob, why do you recommend fuses over circuit breakers for aircraft use?
In yesterday's moderate to almost severe turbulence in Georgia, I couldn't
imagine trying to change a fuse, but reseting a breaker, I stould an
excelent chance of hitting the button within 30 seconds. Could be just a
oddball situuation that caused the device to open. try resetting once, if
won't stay closed ciruit short term, there's a problem, think 3 times before
going further.l
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8, aft longerons |
The exact thing happened to me with a long weekend coming up. So I ordered
my replacement piece 2nd day air and of course it took UPS four days and it
showed up on a Tuesday. Murphy's Law!
>
>It's official, I screwed up :-)
>
>I tried to put the aft longerons in place today, and found that I only
>had a piece long enough for 1 of the 2 needed. I can't find the
>original warning sheet that came with the wing kit, but I was under the
>impression that the top longerons were the only ones that couldn't be
>cut before they were needed. There's enough total angle length for what
>I need, but not 2- 104" pieces. Guess what I won't be doing tomorrow on
>my only full day to work on the plane this week. Rats!
>
>Options,
>
>1- Try to find angle stock locally. Fortunately, there are lots of
>aviation activities around Pensacola, FL. Maybe an aircraft supply
>house can sell me what I need.
>
>2- Splice (groan) two pieces together for one of the longerons.
>
>3- Order from someone and bend over for the shipping charges.
>
>Any opinions will be gladly accepted. I'm really interested to know if
>the original sheet that came with the wing kit warned you to leave 2
>pieces of .063 X 3/4 X 3/4 angle available for the aft longerons
>(F-889). I'm trying to decide if I should be mad at Van's for not
>warning me, or at myself for failing to RTFM.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (pissed at longerons)
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empenahe kit for sale |
HI I'm located in LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel tank gaskets |
Is it proper procedure to coat the rubber/cork gaskets with pro-seal or
fuel lube or something else prior to installing access doors on the fuel
tank or is the gasket itself sufficient.
Also, should the plate be torqued down tightly, or just enough to get
some compression in the gasket?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Denny" <prvdenny(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV's @ Sun and Fun! |
Earl and family
My deep thoughts are with you.
Peter Denny Brisbane Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
matronics.com.Texan4ft@aol.com>; Bill.Foraker(at)rose-hulman.edu
; HUF47885(at)aol.com ;
Bob_Leason(at)dadebehring.com ; N595CM(at)aol.com
; McCORD5(at)iquest.net ;
jmcglone(at)iupui.edu ; JimNolan(at)kconline.com
; Norwood77(at)webtv.net ;
ros(at)seligsealing.com ; razer(at)midwest.net
; reece(at)rt66.com ; schweika(at)dmrtc.net
; sears(at)searnet.com ;
ds248rv4(at)netusa1.net ; sloanie(at)localline.com
; smidler(at)dcwi.com ;
Rv4flyr(at)aol.com ; Docthrock(at)aol.com ;
HR69GT(at)aol.com ; Jlwatler(at)aol.com ;
kwelsh1(at)Juno.com ; mwonder(at)viaduct.custom.net
; SYoutz(at)aol.com
Date: Friday, 16 April 1999 8:06
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV's @ Sun and Fun!
>
>We lost one of our locals and his nine year old son on the way back from
>Sun and Fun. Michael Freitag was flying a Piper Clipper show plane. His
>last contact was with the Marine Corps ATC at Beaufort S.C. informing
>them he was going down in heavy turbulence over Hardeeville S.C. He was
>42.
>
>PILOT8127(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi Gang,
>> Well did we have a "BLAST" or what!
>> The RVs were great! The weather was great! EVERYTHING was great!!
>> Indiana was well represented at Lakeland.
>> Dennis and wife from Kokomo (RV4) Gary and no wife from Brazil (RV3)
>> Sherman and wife from Converse (RV6A) Jim and wife from Warsaw (RV4)
>> Bob and son from Rochester (RV6) David and Dan from Danville (RV6A)
>> Jim and wife from Speedway (RV4) Paul and no wife from Mt. Comfort (RV4)
>> Tom and no wife from Indy (RV rocket) Mike from Speedway (RV4) came in
>> Trinidad.
>> And I heard that Dave Cobbs was there, but I didn't see him.
>> About 75 or so RVs were there. (Unofficial count) If you didn't go
you
>> missed out on alot of FUN, Sunshine, Food, and airplanes! I bet they set
a
>> record this year.
>> Not a drop of rain anytime. Always sunny. Temps were 85 or so daytime, 72
or
>> so at night! No bugs, I could'nt believe it.....
>> Round trip for me; 1800 mi. 11 hrs. and 8 min. total flight
time.
>> Average G/Speed was 160 mph. Tailwind (slight) going down. Gusty most of
the
>> way. Blowing 20 to 31 Kts. in Tenn. Wow! what an arrival in
Winchester...I
>> won't call it a landing. I went on Friday. It was fine. Some waited
until
>> Sat. Less wind but lotsa low stuff! They had to fly around the IFR
areas!
>> Return trip was much better. Sunny skys, smooth above 4K. Choppy
over
>> the Smokey's though. Head wind all the way average-ing 20 to 24 kts. at
4.5K
>> Tue. was the day to come back on for sure. If you need or want more info
>> email me and I will fill you in. We had a Velocity (from Danville, In.)
>> traveling with us home. Landing at Cordel, Ga. with us for fuel, he felt
a
>> shudder on the roll-out. Taxing in the nose gear snapped off! Fixed gear
dug
>> in the pavement, making a sudden "stop" to say the least! More details
if
>> you want'em. Gary/5ajay
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Hoffman <hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Quickbuild order |
For anyone who has ordered a quickbuild kit-
Are there any advantages / disadvantages to ordering the finishing kit
along with the quickbuild kit for the 6A?
Are there other things that are worth ordering along with the kit that I
might not think of if I just order the kit?
Thanks
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
Today I talked with a salesman for an avionics company in Columbus Ohio
and asked him about business. He said they just completed their seventh
panel for Lancair 4P's at $ 129,000 each.
I thought someone might be interested. Blows my mind away.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild order |
IMO, don't order the finish kit now. It is a pretty large crate, and there
is nothing in it that you could use for a long time. It would be money tied
up that you could put into other things. You can see the crate on my
website. It filled the back of a full size Dodge Ram! I got my QB in March
of 98 and am just now getting to use my finish kit that I got in September.
Also, your QB kit will be alot of material. Big boxes, etc. Save the room
and the money for now!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Hoffman <hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net>
Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 9:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Quickbuild order
>
>For anyone who has ordered a quickbuild kit-
>Are there any advantages / disadvantages to ordering the finishing kit
>along with the quickbuild kit for the 6A?
>Are there other things that are worth ordering along with the kit that I
>might not think of if I just order the kit?
>
>Thanks
>
>Curt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
| Subject: | Outboard Tank Attach Options |
I am considering adding a set of auxillary tanks in lieu of the outboard
leading edges as did Claudio Tonnini on his RV-4.
The ways I have thought about are:
1) Add 0.040 2024-T3 web doublers outboard to catch the forward row of
tank attach holes, making the flange wider as the thickness of the stack of
spar flanges steps down. Standard 1/2" out to where the forwardmost flange
(W-406D) ends, 3/4" out to where the W-406C ends, then 7/8" flange the rest
of the way outboard. This seems like overkill, and could get heavy. Maybe
not use the web and use separate top and bottom 0.040 sheet metal angles
(1.5 x 1/2, 1.5 x 3/4, 1.5 x 7/8)?
2) Add 1.5 inch 0.063 6061-T6 angles in front of the spar flanges to
catch the forward row of tank attach holes, cutting the forward flange down
to match the leading edge of the W-406B as the thickness of the stack of
spar flanges steps down. This is lighter, but I am concerned about making
the thick angle conform to the curve of the top of the wing.
3) Use Z-brackets to attach the tank baffle to the main spar web and use
only one row of attach holes along the aft edge of the tank skin (a la
RV-8). The biggest advantage to this is that it is proven (less engineering
to be done). The disadvantages to this are:
a) I don't know how high the RV-8 z-brackets are, ( the best I can
decipher from RV-4 plans, the tank baffle is 1.3 inches forward of the main
spar web.
b) I would probably have to cut several access holes in the bottom of
the wing to get to the attach screws for tank removal.
Any other ideas out there?
Claudio, how did you do it? What brand and model fuel pump did you use to
transfer from outboard to inboard?
I have access to several aircraft structural engineers here at Edwards AFB
and will have an analysis done before cutting metal, but I want to have some
options before going to them.
Miles
Tehachapi, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Attention Tom Clark RV-8 |
Tom,
I've lost your email address. Please reply directly to me so that I
might correspond directly with you. We spoke at Sun N' Fun.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine For Sale |
Lycoming 0-360 A II D 700 Hours Total Time Chrome Cylinders
Bendix Mags-Compression in the high 70's
Regards,
W.Tyler
WTYLER(at)CSIWEB.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | exxon/rocket oil door |
At S&N I got a chance to see the Exxon Tent with Bruce Bohannon's Flying
Tiger and Mattituck's RV4. The RV4 had an oil door with the hinge hidden and
a flush latch. Does anyone know if I can buy this as a kit or if plans are
available. Someone also mention they sold other products that RV4 builders
would be interested in. Do they offer a catalog?
Cowl,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
I bought the wiring kit from Van's, and there is some SHIELDED
M27500/18-14gauge wire. Any idea what this is for? Is this only for
antennae wires?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
>
>
>I bought the wiring kit from Van's, and there is some SHIELDED
>M27500/18-14gauge wire. Any idea what this is for? Is this only for
>antennae wires?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
Paul,
Maybe...P-lead wiring for the mags?
Brian Denk
Albuquerque, NM
-8 finish kit....meaning, it will be ready to fly when all the parts
are gone..right?
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Email Group |
Listeners-
Just another reminder, I'm putting together a list of persons/email
addresses for RV-3 builders/flyers/enthusiast so that we can share and
address RV-3 specifics, etc. So far, I've met via email quite a few persons
who have great passion for RV-3's, and a very broad knowledge base for
assisting others in building/flying/modifying-refurbishing a GREAT aircraft!
So far, I have the following persons (22 I believe) and would welcome anyone
else who might be interested. If I have forgotten you, or misplaced your
name/email, just shoot me a new message and I'll get you in the group list.
If you haven't contacted me and are interested in being in the group, just
send me an email or give me a call and give me some information (optional of
course: name, email address, physical address, phone number, aircraft
built/owned, performance spec's, favorite brand of beer, etc., etc!) and
I'll get in contact with you.
So far:
JimKemp; Bob Adams; Boyd Butler; Charles R. Chandler; Chuck Brietigam; Dan
Carley; Doug Gray; FinnLassen; Gary Rodgers; Jess Mallian; Jim Ayers; Jim
Brown; JohnHosack; Larry Jenison; Norman Hunger; Randy Compton; Rob Reece;
RobertHughes; RobertMiller; Steve Lopez; William "Bill" Saindon; WMincey
If you know of someone you know might be interested, but isn't "online," let
me know. . . one of these days we might even get a newsletter or something
started???
Blue skies and RV-3's forever!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine For Sale |
Is it a 0360 A1D ? If it is how much?
Bob
Rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>Hello Listers;
>Today I talked with a salesman for an avionics company in Columbus Ohio
>and asked him about business. He said they just completed their seventh
>panel for Lancair 4P's at $ 129,000 each.
>
>I thought someone might be interested. Blows my mind away.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
We had a local avionics company give a presentation at our EAA Chapter
recently. He brought in a panel for a Lancair 4P that weighed about
50 pounds and cost $75,000.
I thought that panel had everything you could ever want.
What kind of panel do you get for over $2000/pound??
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
On Sun, 18 Apr 1999, John Kitz wrote:
>
> Hello Listers;
> Today I talked with a salesman for an avionics company in Columbus Ohio
> and asked him about business. He said they just completed their seventh
> panel for Lancair 4P's at $ 129,000 each.
Pretty amazing, huh! I believe in the 90/10 approach: 90% of the
functionallity for 10% of the price.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(530) 676-6513 - voice Suite 1
(530) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
>>I bought the wiring kit from Van's, and there is some SHIELDED
>>M27500/18-14gauge wire. Any idea what this is for? Is this only for
>>antennae wires?
>>
>>Thanks..
Wire shielding requirments for pistion airplanes fall into
two categories . . . (1) p-leads from magneto are always
shielded. The most noise-free technique has been described
in several articles in S.A. and on our website. (2) Sheild
wires according to installation instructions provided with
equipment you are installilng like strobes, audio systems,
radios, etc. Shielding of any other accessories is
an invitation to a heavier, longer to install system. In
particular, shielding of alternator wiring is ineffective in
controlling the noises that alternators generate.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire harness and busses |
>> >Bob, why do you recommend fuses over circuit breakers for aircraft use?
>
>In yesterday's moderate to almost severe turbulence in Georgia, I couldn't
>imagine trying to change a fuse, but reseting a breaker, I stould an
>excelent chance of hitting the button within 30 seconds. Could be just a
>oddball situuation that caused the device to open. try resetting once, if
>won't stay closed ciruit short term, there's a problem, think 3 times before
>going further.l
>
>
But the questions persist: Just suppose the system you were resetting
had a SERIOUS problem which might precipitate a hazard if you didn't
"take a hint" from the circuit breaker? The other question is, suppose
the system quit by NOT popping a breaker? What do you do if the
appliance in question is really needed for comfortable completion of
flight? If your system is failure tolerant and essential systems
are backed up, then fuses and breakers have zero significance in
the outcome of your flight and don't need fiddling with, in smooth
or rough air.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
He said they just completed their seventh
>panel for Lancair 4P's at $ 129,000 each.
>
>I thought someone might be interested. Blows my mind away.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
Reminded me of a conversation I had with a fellow who had to buy a top and
bottom cowl for a 172 that got dinged ...cost is $21,000...the lousy plastic
wing-tips cost $750.
Kind of makes you realize how much of a bargain RV parts are.....Buster..
________________________________________________________________________________
Having completed my RV-8, I have been cleaning out my shop and have the
following items to offer for sale;
1 Kohler engine primer(second hand) works great; $30.00
1 Alcor Single Cylinder EGT(second hand) working good when removed; No
probes, instrument only; $45.00 (218.00 in catalog)
1 RV-8 finish kit tape; $25.00
1 RV-6 Empennage tapes (set of 2); not prepunched; $15.00.
1 Roll of Stainless tape from Vans for flaps;unopened $6.00
Above items are plus shipping, and first come first served. Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Colunio" <acoluni1(at)twcny.rr.com> |
I have a empannage kit, a wing kit, and fuselage kit for a RV-6 for sale.
The only kit missing is the Finishing Kit, the original buyer did
not purchase this for some reason. I bought the kits 2 years ago and find
that I do not have the time to work on it. Hate to see this go to waste. It
needs to be built. I updated the plans when I got the kit and also got a
copy of 18 years of the RVator that will go with this kit.
Empannage - The original owner built the HS skeleton, it is ready to skin.
Everything else is there.
Wing - Still in the box.
Fuselage - Still in the box.
Here's you chance to save some money. $6500 will buy everything.
I live in Syracuse, New York.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tank Attach Options |
"M. Bowen" wrote:
Miles, I'd originally planned extra tanks. I've decided not to.
The big question is: Why? With a 200mph airplane and standard tanks, you
have about 600+ miles range. After 3 hours sitting in the cockpit,
you'll be glad to get out and stretch.
I collected a couple of articles about long range tanks from the
RV-list... you can find them at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm>. There's a LR-tank
decision-making checklist by Joe Larson, as well as a description by
Brian Eckstein about the design of his LR tanks. You might also want to
look into Jon Johansen's tip tanks.
Think also about gross weight... with all that fuel, are you going to
carry a passenger too?
If not,perhaps an in-cockpit fuel tank might be better?
> Claudio, how did you do it? What brand and model fuel pump did you use to
> transfer from outboard to inboard?
The big question (after how you attach the tanks) is: How are you going
to plumb this?
Will you just connect each outboard tank to its corresponding inboard
tank, without a valve in between? If so, will you have fuel caps on the
inboard tanks? If so, you might end up with fuel being pushed out the
inboard caps by the pressure of the fuel in the outboard tank. If you
don't have caps on the inboard tanks, you'll want some way to allow fuel
to flow quickly from the outboard to inboard whilst refuelling.
If you have a valve between, you'll need to remotely control it from the
cockpit. Presumably it'll be electric... are you comfortable with an
electric device in close proximity with fuel and fumes, bearing in mind
the possibility of a leaking tank?
Personally, I'd plumb them up as 4 separate tanks, with a 4-way fuel
selector valve in the cockpit.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
This is my work account. Weekend email should be
sent to me at frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz.
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cable Length |
I have a horizontal recessed subpanel for my engine controls. It is
approx. 1.5 inches recessed. I bought the standard throttle, prop &
mixture cables from Van's, 42.5 inches. I ran them to the right side
of the battery like you describe. guess what, they fit! Used the
center hole on the throttle arm.
At first I thought they would be too short by measuring. Then i
drilled the firewall holes and strung the cables. Finally got lucky.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 with O-320-D1A and Van's cable bracket
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
----------
>
>
>
> Wire shielding requirments for pistion airplanes fall into
> two categories . . .
In particular, shielding of alternator wiring is ineffective in
> controlling the noises that alternators generate.
Bob, are you saying that we don't need to sheild the Alternator Output wire as
all of the schematics specify?
Thanks
Brian Eckstein
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank gaskets |
In a message dated 4/18/99 2:19:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, info@e-ski.net
writes:
<< Is it proper procedure to coat the rubber/cork gaskets with pro-seal or
fuel lube or something else prior to installing access doors on the fuel
tank or is the gasket itself sufficient.
Also, should the plate be torqued down tightly, or just enough to get
some compression in the gasket? >>
Andy-
You're going to get a lot of opinions about this. Here's what has worked for
me. I used the rubberized cork gasket material and coated it with
non-permanent setting Permabond gasket sealer (the black goop). I had some
seepage but not at the gasket, only at the screws. I replaced the screws
with 'O'-ring headed screws from McMaster-Carr. No leaks, no seepage. Now
others may tell you that this won't work and that Proseal should be used. If
you use Proseal, there is little to no reason to use a gasket IMO.
If I were to do it again I would do it the same way. I only run 100LL.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
With some expert help from Curtis Hinkey, I was able to finish the
tanks for my RV-8A this weekend. Here are some tips (many compiled from
the RV-list) that made this process go much better than I anticpated:
- For all tank dimples, use the 3/32" tank dimple dies. The extra .007"
or so deeper dimples leaves just enough room under the rivet heads for
the proseal so the rivets end up flush.
- For the skin/baffle line of rivets, countersink the holes in the skin a
little deeper to avoid proseal leaving these rivet heads high.
- Luckily the weather was cool (low to mid 60's) for the last step of
putting on the aft baffle. This lower temperature greatly extended the
proseal working time.
- A small stainless steel wire brush was the easiest way to scuff up the
proseal mating surfaces.
- If you are doing an inverted tank, remember that when you drill the
holes in the rear baffle for the fuel sender, it can only go in one way
(mounting screw holes are not evenly spaced). I bought the blank
inspection port cover from Van's for my inverted tank. This allowed me
to make the inverted tank fuel sender backing ring out of the now extra
inspection port cover. This backing ring also served as a nut plate
drilling template for the rear baffle. Again be careful to make sure you
drill the holes so the fuel sender mounts with "up" pointing "up".
- For the inverted tank, the fuel sender float bending instuctions are
close enough so that you can make final adjustments during trial mounting
(with the end ribs out so you can see the float).
- For the inverted tank, put a little proseal under the O-ring on the end
of the flop tube. The O-ring keeps the metal end of the flop tube from
hitting the skin on the inside of the tank and there have been some
reports of this ring coming off if not prosealed on.
- The day after the tanks were finished, I mounted them to the wings
(cool night so the proseal was still very pliable). I used a piece of
saran wrap between the tank and the spar to keep the proseal off of the
spar. Even with very close attention to limiting the proseal build up on
the bottom of the rear baffle, there was still proseal squeezing out
between the spar and the rear baffle on the inboard end of the tanks. I
expect this one trick saved me several hours of grinding away fully cured
proseal to get the tanks to sit right.
Hope this helps.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A N716RV (reserved)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
Listers,
Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or for
that matter a 4.
I didn't see much written on it in the archives. I have the rear seat rudder
pedals & want to have the option to control the engine & prop from the rear
seat. I checked in Van's accessory catalog and found nothing. If anyone has
been down this path & found a solution, I would appreciate any advise.
Thanks.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
Allen, TX 75013
Fuselage 80783
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tank Attach Options |
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
> The big question is: Why? With a 200mph airplane and standard tanks, you
> have about 600+ miles range. After 3 hours sitting in the cockpit,
> you'll be glad to get out and stretch.
I've been flying my 170 with 4+ hours range and a less-than-ergonomic seat
for 16 years, and it always needs gas before I'm ready to stop. I'm hoping
that the RV seat will be even more comfortable. An autopilot will help too.
I think the biggest problem will be to keep occupied enough not to fall
asleep.
>There's a LR-tank decision-making checklist by Joe Larson, as well as a
description by
> Brian Eckstein about the design of his LR tanks. You might also want to
> look into Jon Johansen's tip tanks.
I've done Joe's checklist already and it indicates that I should go ahead
with the LR option.
> Think also about gross weight... with all that fuel, are you going to
> carry a passenger too?
> If not,perhaps an in-cockpit fuel tank might be better?
My idea of the outboard tanks is to only use them when I go on a LONG solo
cross country (1900 nm to see my dad). I will fill the inboard tanks, then
add fuel to the
outboards to make gross. (I f I lose some weight, I'll be able to fill the
outboards.) For shorter trips, local flying, carrying a passenger, etc. the
outboard tanks will remain empty. It is my personal preference to not have
fuel stored in the cockpit.
>
> The big question (after how you attach the tanks) is: How are you going
> to plumb this?.
> Will you just connect each outboard tank to its corresponding inboard
> tank, without a valve in between? If so, will you have fuel caps on the
> inboard tanks? If so, you might end up with fuel being pushed out the
> inboard caps by the pressure of the fuel in the outboard tank>
>
To simplify the plumbing, the outboard tanks will replenish the inboards
through a small electric transfer pump located between the two tanks in each
wing. I will still use the standard 2-tank fuel selector. This is how
Flint Aero's long-range tank system for the Cessna single-engine airplanes
works. Each of the 4 tanks will have its own cap. Having the pump between
the tanks will prevent the outboard fuel from pressurizing the inboard fuel.
I will start the transfer about 2 hours into the flight so that I will still
have plenty of fuel in the inboards in the event of a transfer pump failure.
Part of the structural analysis will be to ensure structural integrity while
landing with full outboard tanks.
> If you have a valve between, you'll need to remotely control it from the
> cockpit. Presumably it'll be electric... are you comfortable with an
> electric device in close proximity with fuel and fumes, bearing in mind
> the possibility of a leaking tank?
I'm much more comfortable with an electric fuel pump between the tanks than
with the possibility of a leaking cockpit tank.
I appreciate the input.
Miles
Tehachapi, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale |
> 1 Roll of Stainless tape from Vans for flaps;unopened $6.00
I'll take that tape off your hands if you still have it - if it's the
older, better tape from the original supplier.
- Mike
==
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Summers <stuartrv(at)powerup.com.au> |
unsubcribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale |
Hi Mike; You were the first to respond on the stainless tape; I dont know
if it is the' old style' or not; about 6 mos old. The tag says 3 x 10,
#12-3578 Stainless Steel Tape. Let me know if you want it, and if you do,
I need an address to ship to. When you get it, just send me a check for
$6.00 plus shipping amount.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>> 1 Roll of Stainless tape from Vans for flaps;unopened $6.00
>
>
>I'll take that tape off your hands if you still have it - if it's the
>older, better tape from the original supplier.
>
>
>- Mike
>==
>Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
>Austin, TX, USA
>RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
>EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
>PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
Mark; There is a rear throttle kit for the 8; I have it in mine.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or
>for
>that matter a 4.
>
>I didn't see much written on it in the archives. I have the rear seat
>rudder
>pedals & want to have the option to control the engine & prop from the
>rear
>seat. I checked in Van's accessory catalog and found nothing. If
>anyone has
>been down this path & found a solution, I would appreciate any advise.
>
>Thanks.....Mark
>
>
>Mark Steffensen
>Allen, TX 75013
>Fuselage 80783
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
>Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or
>for
>that matter a 4.
>
>I didn't see much written on it in the archives. I have the rear seat
>rudder
>pedals & want to have the option to control the engine & prop from the
>rear
>seat. I checked in Van's accessory catalog and found nothing. If
>anyone has
>been down this path & found a solution, I would appreciate any advise.
>
>Thanks.....Mark
>
>
>Mark Steffensen
>Allen, TX 75013
>Fuselage 80783
>
A kit is available to install a throttle control in the rear seat of an
RV-8 or 8A.
Control for the prop is not provided.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Gear Question |
>Just received my Fuselage kit. Inventoried kit, I was short 6 RV8A,
>parts,
>but was given (8) RV8 specific parts.
>
>Regarding the main gear there should be a left & a right part.
>
>Does anyone know how to tell the difference. I want to make sure I
>have the
>both a left & a right. The part inventory states 2 different part
>numbers. I
>can't see a visible difference in the parts I received.
>
>Just finished installing the wing tips & the RMD Wing Tip Lighting
>System.
>IMHO worth the cost, It is nice.
>
>Thanks.......Mark
>
>
I believe they should have an L or an R stamped on the top end (for left
and right). Also if you lay them beside each other you should see that
the volt hole pre drilled in the axles portion is at a different
orientation (clocking angle) on each one.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Forward skin |
>I'm fitting the F-820 forward side skins. There is a pre-punch hole
>in the
>bottom, aft location for a rivet into the 804 section. However, the
>F804F
>center section bar will interfer with a rivet here. The plans call
>for a
>MSP-42P rivet. I got MSP-42's with my kit but no "-42P"'s.
>
>What is an MSP-42P and how will it rivet these parts with the F-804
>section
>in the way??
>
>Thanks
>Scott A. Jordan
>80331
>
>
The MSP-42 should be the correct rivet. I don't know what the P is there
for but only MSP-42's are shown in the optional parts catalog.
The bottom 2 (top as jigged) rivets are difficult (particularly the aft
ones if I remember correctly). When installing these rivets, use a small
screwdriver (pad with some masking tape, etc.) and carefully pry the skin
and F-804H plate away from the centersection bar just enough to get the
blind rivet to bottom out in the hole and allow you to begin pulling
(setting it). As it begins to set it becomes shorter and you can release
the slight bend on the skin parts.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Just finished fitting the infamous tail fairing on my 6. At first glance
it looked like it would never fit, but with a little heat and thought I
made it fit. Wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. I spent about 6 hours
on it and it fits as good as most that I have seen.
Like the sliding canopy it requires more than just measuring and
drilling to make it work, there is some "art" involved.
Don't sell Van's fairing short- in my opinion, it's easier to make it
fit than to make your own.
Dave Bristol (Los Angeles area)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Tach Installation |
I just purchased an RV-3. When I did a mag check, the right works as
expected, but left shows an indicated zero RPMs on the tach. The tach
has a fuse, so I'm assuming it's mag driven electronic. Is it common
practice to setup the tach on only one mag? If so how will I know that
the left is operating within 25 RPMs?
Bruce Meacham
N3456B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Quick" <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank gaskets |
you can use tightseal on cork to seal tanks or proseal produce a product
that is simply applied between metal surfaces and screwed down. it can
easily be seperated at any stage later. courtaulds are the people to talk to
part no pr -1301 or pr- 1428.
-----Original Message-----
From: info@e-ski.net <info@e-ski.net>
Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 10:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel tank gaskets
>
>Is it proper procedure to coat the rubber/cork gaskets with pro-seal or
>fuel lube or something else prior to installing access doors on the fuel
>tank or is the gasket itself sufficient.
>
>Also, should the plate be torqued down tightly, or just enough to get
>some compression in the gasket?
>
>Thanks,
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire harness and busses |
>
>
>On Thu, 15 Apr 1999 10:01:01 "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> writes:
>
>> That's mostly because military airplanes are war machines.
>> Any form of failure is a distraction to a pilot that could happen
>
>Bob,
> That was your best lecture yet. Bravo
>Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>
Thank you sir. I'll be updating an old article on
system reliability with new information just picked
out of an issue of AOPA pilot magazine. I'll put it
up on the website when I'm finished with it.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
On the way back from Sun 'n Fun Tuesday, I had a rough running engine
for about 5 seconds. This is the third time this has happened in two
years and 500 hours. Before leaving LAC I drained fuel and found a 1/4"
ball of water in one tank. In the case Tuesday and the previous times
the engine goes rough at cruise power just seconds after I pitch nose
down from cruise attitude for descent. I have not reduced power when it
goes rough. At the onset of roughness I do immediately reduce power and
go to full rich. I have noticed every time it has happened that one
cylinder is cold on the graphic engine monitor. By cold I mean the EGT
is not displaying any bars and the CHT is going down. It has been #2
cylinder twice and #1 cylinder once. One other time this happened I had
found water in the fuel as well.
The engine is a IO-360 B1B (180hp). I suspect that there is a slug of
water that lays in the aft inboard corner of the tank that rolls forward
to the fuel pickup when I pitch forward. My finger strainer is very low
in the tank and less than 1/2" forward of the rear baffle running
parallel to the rear baffle. As well the fuel drain is as far back as I
could possibly place it. I have never found water in the gascolator.
My question is, could a small amount of water stay intact and
temporarily block just one injector? My first thought was possible
sticking valves, but I thought that valve sticking usually shows up
shortly after starting (morning sickness). I have not entirely
discounted the sticky valve theory but fuel contamination just fits
these observations better. I am somewhat concerned of course and have
changed my fuel draining procedures when I find water. I raise the tail
till the bottom tank skin is level and draw a nice big sample. I am also
listening very carefully at first start for any engine roughness. I am
going to pull the valve springs and do the "wobble" test this week.
Since the problem on Tuesday I have flown about 10 hours with no
problems. Has anyone else flying with a similar setup experienced this?
Any ideas?
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
Hi all,
Got a problem, at least I think I do. when I am running my engine hard >2400
rpm or climbing my oil temp is getting out of hand. At 2300 cruise it will
stay about 210 degrees but when I put more power into it it wants to climb.
I ran into a situation yesterday when a 172 was able to out climb me because
my oil temp kept trying to red line. I was most embarrased.
Here are a few specifics:
Firewall mounted positech oil cooler (for O360), Vans mount and duct kit
(3"), RV6A with an 0320-E3D.
CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate (high
AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling outlet and
this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50 deg
with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
Cooler is mounted horizontal to the firewall with the I/O fittings sitting
on the forward side as per Vans drawings. Duct comes from R rear baffle.
Oil temp sender/guage is Issopro frm Vans.
OAT has all been below 80 deg/f.
One thing I am concerned about is that the oil cooler could have an
airpocket in it due to the way it is mounted. I haven't heard of any
problems like this but.....
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Pat Kirkpatrick
Rio Rancho NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 19 Apr 1999 19":22:07.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or for
> that matter a 4.
>
Stearmans use small diameter push/pull tubes
between the front and rear quadrants. Also, take a
look at a cub or a champ and see how they do it.
Miles
Tehachapi, CA
RV-4 elevators
Wing Kit inventoried.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Murray <mudhen(at)earthlink.net> |
Howdy all,
Here is one that will probably get me more info than I can handle. I
have not ordered the 6A QB kit yet since I need to finish designing the
place to build it, (read that as a new house). I am going to end up
with a 15' x 20' space that will become my shop and am wondering if
anyone has some good ideas on how to set it up. I'm not talking the
pipe dream of ultimate shops but something that will be functional and
efficient. Any ideas on how you experts out there would like a shop to
make things easier would be great. Thanks in advance.
Matt Murray
Austin, TX
The Barn before the Horse so to speak.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy <ebundy(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tach Installation |
Most electronic tachs can only read one mag, and when you ground that mag to
read the other one you will get a zero indication. The original mag in my
6A was an electronic UMA, which in addition to only working on one mag,
didn't even do *that* properly (but that is a whole 'nother story). Some of
the more expensive ones like the E.I. are set up so that the tach works on
either or both mags. I wasn't comfortable with a single mag reading, and I
didn't want a cable driven tach, so I went with the E.I.
Ed Bundy - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)cwix.com
http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>
> I just purchased an RV-3. When I did a mag check, the right works as
> expected, but left shows an indicated zero RPMs on the tach. The tach
> has a fuse, so I'm assuming it's mag driven electronic. Is it common
> practice to setup the tach on only one mag? If so how will I know that
> the left is operating within 25 RPMs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tach Installation |
You can always add a switch to allow you to select which mag drives the
tach. That way when you ground the left mag you can select the right mag
as your source for the tach and vice versa.
Alternatively you can do your mag check by ear. Do your first mag check by
switching so that you are still running with the mag that is driving the
tach. You look at the drop on the tach and you listen to the drop with
your ear. Switch to the other mag and listen to the difference. You will
be able to tell if the RPM increases or decreases. This is surprisingly
accurate.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps |
In a message dated 4/19/99 2:26:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com writes:
<< CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate (high
AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling outlet and
this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50 deg
with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
>>
Hmmmmmmmm...looks like the CHT readings are a bit high also. What do your
EGTs run? You could have a jetting problem...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps |
Check your v-therm in an oven make sure its openning
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Can anyone tell me who makes Vans tailsprings?
Also can someone who has a finished RV6 do me a favor. I need to know the weight
on the tail wheel with two adult guys and average baggage. This should be in the
three point position.
Thanks in advance.
Phil at Litchfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tach Installation |
Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
>
> I just purchased an RV-3. When I did a mag check, the right works as
> expected, but left shows an indicated zero RPMs on the tach. The tach
> has a fuse, so I'm assuming it's mag driven electronic. Is it common
> practice to setup the tach on only one mag? If so how will I know that
> the left is operating within 25 RPMs?
>
> Bruce Meacham
> N3456B
>
If it's electronic, it probably triggers off a p-lead or plug wire. The
fix would be a second sensor or pickup on the other ignition system and
a L/R switch for the tach. Standard a/c tachs are mechanical & driven by
a flex shaft from the engine similar to a car speedometer drive from the
transmission. Don't know if it's common, but your's isn't the first.
Before you 'fix' it, try covering the tach on a plane you are familiar
with & do several mag checks 'by ear' & decide if you can be comfortable
with that.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shop Project |
The way I would design my shop:
Hard line air network- PVC or copper will work. Place the compressor as far away
as possible. I would have four overhead connections around the corners of
my project. Overhead works out great when using a spiral hose (no hose to pull
around, get tied up, or trip over). Don't forget to have a regulator and water
filter built in somewhere easily accessible and close the project.
Along with the overhead air connections it is also nice to have overhead electrical
outlets. Then to help fill up some of those outlets get lots of lights-
general lighting (4' flourescent) and task lighting (movable spots). For the
movable spots- drafting lamps (extendable arm desk lamps) work great when attached
upside down from the ceiling.
The more flat countertop area the better. I like 30" - 36" minimum width, with
at least one area that is wider (48"?)
Along with the fixed counter top areas it would be nice to have some smaller (24"
x 36") movable surfaces on wheels to help hold tools and to move around the
project.
An adjustable height draftsmans chair comes in handy for taking a load off your
feet while working at various heights.
An organized tool rack is very helpful, but I don't practice what I preach (my
tools are scattered about on top of my work tables and floor)
I also have a TV and VCR for watching the construction videos. If you have an
extra couch laying around it is nice to have a comfortable place to sit while
resting or reading the manual (just don't get too comfortable or else you won't
want to build)
Hope this helps
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
>>> Matt Murray 04/19 4:19 PM >>>
Howdy all,
Here is one that will probably get me more info than I can handle. I
have not ordered the 6A QB kit yet since I need to finish designing the
place to build it, (read that as a new house). I am going to end up
with a 15' x 20' space that will become my shop and am wondering if
anyone has some good ideas on how to set it up. I'm not talking the
pipe dream of ultimate shops but something that will be functional and
efficient. Any ideas on how you experts out there would like a shop to
make things easier would be great. Thanks in advance.
Matt Murray
Austin, TX
The Barn before the Horse so to speak.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MSnook(at)micro.honeywell.com (Snook, Michael) |
| Subject: | Mounting a Lycoming on an e |
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list [SMTP:rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 7:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting a Lycoming on an engi
How do you mount a Lycoming on an engine stand? I've purchased a 1000 lb.
engine stand from Harbor Freight Tools but I'm having a tough time trying to
attach it. Anyone with experience on this?
Thanks,
Paul Imhof
RV-8 on gear
Hi all,
This is my first post to the list, however, I've been lurking here for some
time.
I mounted an O-320-D2J to my automotive engine stand by fabricating four 12
inch
'standoffs' to extend the mounting lugs of the engine stand to clear the accessory
gear
case of the Lycoming.
For the standoffs, I used 1" steel pipe cut 90 degrees on one end and the opposite
end cut at an angle to match the Lycoming engine mount points (about 30*???).
I then used about 16" of 3/8" threaded rod from the engine stand, through the
center
of each standoff, then through the Lycoming engine mount points to hold everything
together.
I made a bend about 2" from the end of each threaded rod to match the angle
of the
Lycoming mount and used large washers to protect the engine case from the pipe/standoffs.
Total cost was about $18.00 in parts from a local hardware store and about
an hour of my
time with a hack saw and a wrench.
Hope this helps,
Mike Snook
Allen, TX
RV-8A starting soon!
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps |
Also check your temp gage. It could be wrong also.
-----Original Message-----
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com <PASSPAT(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: High oil temps
>
>Check your v-therm in an oven make sure its openning
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps |
My personal opinion is your oil cooler is too small. A good rule of thumb,
your oil temps should not run over 100 degrees ambient. 80 degrees outside
180 oil temp. Some one else has said check you vernitherm to see if it is
opening. A quick check would be to place a indoor outdoor thermometer on
the air outlet of the oil cooler. If the outlet air is not above outside
air by much, oil isn't going through your cooler. If you use a cheap Radio
Shack for this test, don't run it very long. You can do it on the ground.
Did this just start? You might check for a bird's nest down in the duct.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kirkpatrick, Pat W <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 2:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: High oil temps
>
>Hi all,
>
>Got a problem, at least I think I do. when I am running my engine hard
>2400
>rpm or climbing my oil temp is getting out of hand. At 2300 cruise it will
>stay about 210 degrees but when I put more power into it it wants to climb.
>I ran into a situation yesterday when a 172 was able to out climb me
because
>my oil temp kept trying to red line. I was most embarrased.
>
>Here are a few specifics:
>Firewall mounted positech oil cooler (for O360), Vans mount and duct kit
>(3"), RV6A with an 0320-E3D.
>
>CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate (high
>AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling outlet
and
>this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50 deg
>with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
>
>Cooler is mounted horizontal to the firewall with the I/O fittings sitting
>on the forward side as per Vans drawings. Duct comes from R rear baffle.
>
>Oil temp sender/guage is Issopro frm Vans.
>
>OAT has all been below 80 deg/f.
>
>
>One thing I am concerned about is that the oil cooler could have an
>airpocket in it due to the way it is mounted. I haven't heard of any
>problems like this but.....
>
>Any help will be greatly appreciated!
>Pat Kirkpatrick
>Rio Rancho NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tach Installation |
If I remember, there was a problem when electronic tach first came out. If
the Tach failed, then it shorted out both mags. The cure was to attach it
to only one.
Why not check with the builder?
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Tach Installation
>
>
>Bruce Meacham wrote:
>>
>>
>> I just purchased an RV-3. When I did a mag check, the right works as
>> expected, but left shows an indicated zero RPMs on the tach. The tach
>> has a fuse, so I'm assuming it's mag driven electronic. Is it common
>> practice to setup the tach on only one mag? If so how will I know that
>> the left is operating within 25 RPMs?
>>
>> Bruce Meacham
>> N3456B
>>
>If it's electronic, it probably triggers off a p-lead or plug wire. The
>fix would be a second sensor or pickup on the other ignition system and
>a L/R switch for the tach. Standard a/c tachs are mechanical & driven by
>a flex shaft from the engine similar to a car speedometer drive from the
>transmission. Don't know if it's common, but your's isn't the first.
>
>Before you 'fix' it, try covering the tach on a plane you are familiar
>with & do several mag checks 'by ear' & decide if you can be comfortable
>with that.
>
>Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the hinges to
the
cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot install
the
hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I see that
the
'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the area between
the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this challenge.
I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril tool - a
long
a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from creating this
problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the hinge but am
afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for your help. I might conquer this fiberglass thing yet :-)
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild order (timing) |
Curt (& others):
You asked if it was worth ordering the finishing kit along with the (quick
build) fuselage and wing kits.
At least one comment suggested that it did not provide much value to order
at the same time, as you would not need those parts until later in the
process and they do take up a significant amount of space.
Another reason to delay would be to take advantage of any
changes/improvements that Van and his crew come up with while you're working
on the major portion of the plane. A couple of recent examples: the -6A
nose gear has been improved recently to eliminate a potential failure spot
(see the service bulletin), some steel parts have gone to a powder-paint
finish to eliminate the need to prime/paint/wonder if it'll ever corrode,
some fiberglass parts are being changed to pre-preg epoxy (I understand)
like the Type S cowl (which is now standard), etc.
The other side of the coin, though, is that lead times for the various kits
and sub-kits are not always the same. Kathy and I got lucky on the timing -
we thought we were ordering the finishing kit, engine, and prop plenty early
in the process (main kit about Sept, rest of the "stuff" late Dec). As it
turns out, lead times were long enough that all of those parts are showing
up right about the time that we're ready for them. These lead times vary
quite a bit (seasonally?) over time - when we took a factory tour a few
weeks ago, we were told that there is some consideration being given to
making this info at least somewhat available on the web site. In my
opinion, this would be a nice service if Van & crew could provide it - it
would let you make better guesses on the budget/ordering process. At this
time, calling occasionally to ask is about the best that you can do, and
I'll bet Van's staff gets plenty of those calls already (bad enough to
answer the ones about solid orders in process...)
So - the upshot is that there still are reasons to delay ordering as long as
practical, and the challenge is to figure out just how long that really is!
Good luck on your own timing decisions!
Bill & Kathy Peck, -6A(Q). Finishing kit's here, contemplating the
(dreaded?) canopy job...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Installing washers as spacers |
I ran across a real "flat forehead" special yesterday while installing
control linkages. (You know, those revelations that cause you to smack your
own forehead and say "why didn't I think of that sooner!").
This one may be obvious to a lot of you, but if you haven't come across it
yet, try it - it really helps.
When sliding washers into a "fork" to use as spacers to keep the linkage
from sliding sideways, the first one is usually pretty easy (pivot bolt just
started, hang the first washer on the bolt, put the ball joint into the fork
& slide bolt in, etc.). So far, so good. Now for the trick - there's not
near as much room to work with while getting the second washer in there and
capturing it with the bolt through the second side of the fork.
What I found - put a piece of tape on the face of the washer ("heads")(don't
cover the hole!), then fold the tape on itself to stick to the "tails" side
too. Now you have a handle to slide the washer into the fork with! Once
the pivot bolt is in place, pull the tape and it'll come right off of the
washer (there's not that much area to stick to). Quick, easy, beats trying
to use a screwdriver, magnet, needle-nose, etc. to slide it into that little
space...
tape/tape/tape/tape
tape WASHER/hole/WASHER
tape/tape/tape/tape
(above is my attempt at an edge view graphic description that
doesn't bug Matt's server too much - if the text and this don't make sense,
e-mail me and I'll try to scan a picture & mail it to you directly).
My apologies if this is common practice already, but it sure made my life
easier yesterday!
Bill & Kathy Peck, -6A(Q), painted the cockpit & now I'm putting all the
pieces back in...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Narco Transponder |
>
Bill I bought the same items as you with same problem.You need to call Narco at
1800-223-3636 and they will send you Installation
manual 03606-0620 free of charge It has some info you will need then use
Ameri-kings
wiring to connect their digitizer.
Wayne RV-4 Panel
> Also, I received my Narco AT 150 transponder with no wiring diagram but my
> Ameri-King Alt Encoder has a diagram for wiring to the Narco. Is that all
> I need to follow?????
>
> Bill Pagan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shop Project |
In a message dated 4/19/99 1:41:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mudhen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I'm not talking the
pipe dream of ultimate shops but something that will be functional and
efficient. >>
Matt
I have a "limited space" shop in my garage. When I go to work the fuselage,
I will be "banishing" the boat to a rented boat storage facility. Right now
I have 1/2 of a 2 1/2 car garage. My work table is a standard size door with
the door knob and hinges removed with a piece of 4x8 particleboard ontop of
it. Both of these are sitting on sawhorses. It isn't working out too badly.
I would say that one of the requirements would be for you to try to make sure
that you have easy access to your parts bins and tabletop tools such as vise,
sander, bandsaw, etc. With my boat in the garage, I could use a little more
space to get to these items. As one person already said, "lighting" is going
to make a big difference in work. As for tools, it is not that cut and
dried. It
is pretty easy to decide what tools you will be needing for that days tasks,
and then just lay out those tools. Good luck with your shop building and
set-up.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing washers as spacers |
It's about time! It's ideas like these that make people millions. Simple,
yet effective.
Nice job, I know what I am gonna do on my other surfaces!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathy & Bill Peck <peck(at)amigo.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 12:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Installing washers as spacers
>
>I ran across a real "flat forehead" special yesterday while installing
>control linkages. (You know, those revelations that cause you to smack
your
>own forehead and say "why didn't I think of that sooner!").
>
>This one may be obvious to a lot of you, but if you haven't come across it
>yet, try it - it really helps.
>
>When sliding washers into a "fork" to use as spacers to keep the linkage
>from sliding sideways, the first one is usually pretty easy (pivot bolt
just
>started, hang the first washer on the bolt, put the ball joint into the
fork
>& slide bolt in, etc.). So far, so good. Now for the trick - there's not
>near as much room to work with while getting the second washer in there and
>capturing it with the bolt through the second side of the fork.
>
>What I found - put a piece of tape on the face of the washer
("heads")(don't
>cover the hole!), then fold the tape on itself to stick to the "tails" side
>too. Now you have a handle to slide the washer into the fork with! Once
>the pivot bolt is in place, pull the tape and it'll come right off of the
>washer (there's not that much area to stick to). Quick, easy, beats trying
>to use a screwdriver, magnet, needle-nose, etc. to slide it into that
little
>space...
>
> tape/tape/tape/tape
> tape WASHER/hole/WASHER
> tape/tape/tape/tape
>
> (above is my attempt at an edge view graphic description that
>doesn't bug Matt's server too much - if the text and this don't make sense,
>e-mail me and I'll try to scan a picture & mail it to you directly).
>
>My apologies if this is common practice already, but it sure made my life
>easier yesterday!
>
> Bill & Kathy Peck, -6A(Q), painted the cockpit & now I'm putting all the
>pieces back in...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
| Subject: | Lycoming camshafts |
Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-)
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Flaps/Ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
When you read the several messages posted to this BB about difficulty flaring
the 8, it starts to make sense that this aircraft, at least, can and perhaps,
should be flown solo from the back seat. One correspondent has even stated he
plans to carry some ballast in the rear seat to regain flare power. (!) When
the idea of back-seat solo is brought up I hear comments about the CG being
to far aft, etc., however, since both occupants are behind the CG, removing
one can only shift the CG forward, eh? Most two-seat aerobatic aircraft are
flown solo from the back seat. Why? The pilot needs to have a clear view or
the wing tips to establish a clean line through the manuver, and in addition,
the longer sight line of the aircraft forward is an aid to positioning.
(Working on wings, engineering rear seat solo.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Big Buck Panels, and more |
mikel(at)dimensional.com wrote:
> >He said they just completed their seventh panel for Lancair 4P's at $
> 129,000 >each.
>
> HAHAHAHAHAHAhahahahahahaha.....ha ha.. ha ahem......sniff
Yeah... I thought the guy who had NZ$30K (US$15K) in an RV6 panel had
gone over the top a bit.
I think that part of it is that if you have the bucks to buy a ship like
a Lancair 4P (and then to fly it too), then you have the bucks to spend
on an all-singing, all-dancing panel. And possibly you're spending a lot
of time earning those bucks, so you have to get someone else to actually
build the panel (and airplane) for you.
Frank.
(Trying to figure how much panel he can get for ONE thousand bucks)
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
I had the same problem despite my care to keep excess JB Weld out of the
hinge eyes. I could think of no other solution but to work a small file
between each pair of hinge eyes. Tedious is the word.
Have fun,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 FINALLY finished sanding lower cowl and tail fairing. Now back to the
fun stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowl hinges
>
>Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the
hinges to the
>cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
install the
>hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I see
that the
>'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the area
between
>the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this
challenge.
>I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril
tool - a long
>a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from creating
this
>problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the hinge
but am
>afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder question ... |
Not exactly RV, but it MIGHT be some day ....
Background:
Aircraft = Piper Archer II
Transponder = King KT78(A??)
Just before entering Orlando Class B airspace enroute to SnF, my transponder
decided to call it quits. This was not amusing to the controller as a) he
had just given me a sqawk code, b) I was close to the 30 mile "Mode C Veil"
and c) it was **REALLY** busy.
Took it to Gulf Coast Avionics and pleaded for help. One of the good people
there took it overnight back to the shop (@ LAL now) and bench tested it. To
my surprise the next morning he had it ready ... just a blown (internal)
fuse. So far so good (I think).
I make it home OK but when I decide to go flying on Sunday, about 5 minutes
after takeoff, it goes silent **AGAIN**! I turn back (in Class C, head
toward Class B ) and put the plane away ... disgusted and puzzled.
Now, finally the question(s) ...
Does anyone out there have any idea of what MIGHT be happening here?
Have any of you experienced this before?
Should I "get it fixed" again, or move up to a more "modern" transponder?
Are transponders one of those things that it is best to just replace every
20 years??
Anybody got a good deal on a slightly used KT78, KT76, KT76A or *maybe*
KT76C??
Just thought I would ask ...
James
RV6AQB ... tailfeather fiberglass stuff and sliding canopy
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps "Long post warning" |
75,78,82,88-89,92-95,101,106-107,109,111,115,119-122,127-135
>Got a problem, at least I think I do. when I am running my engine hard
>>2400
>rpm or climbing my oil temp is getting out of hand. At 2300 cruise it
>will
>stay about 210 degrees but when I put more power into it wants to
>climb.
>I ran into a situation yesterday when a 172 was able to out climb me
>because
>my oil temp kept trying to red line. I was most embarrased.
>
>Here are a few specifics:
>Firewall mounted positech oil cooler (for O360), Vans mount and duct
>kit
>(3"), RV6A with an 0320-E3D.
>
>CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate
>(high
>AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling
>outlet and
>this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50
>deg
>with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
>
>Cooler is mounted horizontal to the firewall with the I/O fittings
>sitting
>on the forward side as per Vans drawings. Duct comes from R rear
>baffle.
>
>Oil temp sender/guage is Issopro frm Vans.
>
>OAT has all been below 80 deg/f.
>
>
-
Is that OAT measured at ground level or 10,000 ft?
For example an OAT of 80 at 10,000 ft is very warm. Couple that with
the fact that the greatly reduced air density at that altitude has a
major effect on overall cooling.
I will assume that 80 F. was the temp. near ground level. If that is
the case then you definitely have a problem.
-
>One thing I am concerned about is that the oil cooler could have an
>airpocket in it due to the way it is mounted. I haven't heard of any
>problems like this but.....
-
The only mounting position that I have ever heard can be a problem with
air entrapment is if you mount the cooler with the in and out ports
facing down.
I would like to re mention what I have before (lots of stuff in the
archives about this) ... If you live in a hot environment, firewall
mounting the oil cooler and feeding air with a Scat hose is the "least"
effective method of
installing an oil cooler on an RV.
Mounted on the rear baffle seems best,
Mounted on the left baffle inlet ramp is second best,
and mounted on the firewall is the least effective.
Of course this is "my" opinion, but I have been around enough RV's in hot
environments to believe this is correct.
My first thought is that high CHT temps along with the oil temp is
probably indicating something.
Now you just have to find out what.
Is this an airplane that is newly flying or has it been flying for quite
a while and suddenly developed this problem?
Here is a few things to check/verify. Many of them may seem quite
elementary, but since I don't know what you know I will mention them.
The baffle and baffle seal fabric installation is something that many
builders have trouble with getting a good quality installation.
I have seen some builders even leave off the fwd baffle that closes off
the area behind the ring gear/prop. hub because they had never seen it on
a cert. aircraft, and thought it wasn't needed.
In higher air temps a total baffle leakage area of just 2 or 3 square
inches can be significant ( I have seen RV's with nearly double that and
the builder thought it was not a big deal). Make sure all of the baffles
fit
tightly and have no gaps to the engine. Make sure their are no areas
that when the baffle plenum is under pressure (their is a lot more than
you might think) that no portion of the baffles can push outward and make
a gap (leak). Check the inside surface of your top cowl to be sure that
rub marks from the baffle seal are visible on the entire perimeter of the
baffle plenum (no rub mark in an area means a leak).
Are the fiberglass inlet ramps that come with the cowl installed on the
upper cowl air inlets? If these are left off it can have a major effect
on engine cooling (particularly at high angles of attack).
Check the Vernatherm valve operation (lots of stuff in the archives)
Contrary to what was already mentioned the vernatherm closes (gets
longer) an oil port when the oil gets hot. This valve is opening and
closing a by-pass path that lets cold (thick) oil by-pass the oil filter
and cooler until it has gotten hot. If you heat it in a pan of water it
should grow in length (I think Lycoming has a S.B. on what the length
change is supposed to be).
You can also be sure that it is sealing on the seat correctly. Their
should be evidence of even contact on the seat end of the vernatherm but
it should not have a groove worn into it. Their are tools available for
resurfacing the seat in the filter adapter, and I think for the end of
the vernatherm itself.
Verify that the oil temp gauge is accurate (considering the high CHT's it
sounds like it probably is).
The Isspro style sender requires that it have a good ground connection to
the airframe ground reference (where the gauge itself is grounded).
Sometimes they get installed with a bunch of thread sealant slightly
insulating the sender from the engine. This can cause incorrect
readings. If use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between the sender
body and the airframe it should be very near zero ohm's.
You can remove the sender and check in a pot of boiling water which
should give you a good idea of its accuracy at the boiling temp of water
for your altitude (remember to attach a temporary ground lead from the
body of the sender to the airframe).
Lastly, problems with the engine itself could be causing you trouble.
Incorrect induction mixture could be causing all of your temps to run
high. Also excessive ring blow-by can allow more hot gasses than normal,
blow passed the rings into the oil sump which then raises the oil
temperature (Usually a lot of oil vapor will be blowing out the engine
crank case breather if this is very much of a problem).
I hope this at least gives you a start on tracking down the problem.]
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the
>hinges to the
>cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
>install the
>hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer
>I see that the
>'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the
>area between
>the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with
>this challenge.
>I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril
>tool - a long
>a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from
>creating this
>problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the
>hinge but am
>afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
Doug,
It sounds like you are using waaaaaaay to much resin.
The rivets are capable of doing on the work on there own. Bonding them on
just helps it hold up under long term vibration. Start using just enough
to get the mat cloth wetted out.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
Jon Elford wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
> rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings?
The one trick I have heard of was to use a helicopter cam for higher RPM
and somewhat higher HP. Got that from an acro guy with a Pitts Special.
A long time ago, I read once of a roller cam setup that was proposed for
the H2AD engines, but I never saw any more about it. It was mentioned
in either Light Plane Maitenance or Aviation Consumer. Wonder if
anybody has considered roller rockers for the Lycosaurus?
Tom Glover Surrey BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing washers as spacers |
That's why the FAA allows us to build these things. It's a learning experience.
Been doing it this way for quite some time, but when the clearances are tight,
this method will not allow pushing the washers into those tight fitting places.
For the tight places you need to make a little tool. Start with a 5/8" strip of
.032 about 5 inches long. Drill a 1/8" hole in one end and then open the hole up
with a uni-bit to the same diameter of a AN960-10 washer. Next cut the end of
the strip off, making the cut exactly in the center of the hole.
Now when installing tight fit washers (even AN960-10L's), place some scotch tape
on the new washer tool overlapping the 1/2 round hole about 1/8" and stick the
washer in the end. The tape holds the washer to the tool and allows pushing
(with amazing force) the washer into position.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
Pine Junction, CO
Kathy & Bill Peck wrote:
>
> What I found - put a piece of tape on the face of the washer ("heads")(don't
> cover the hole!), then fold the tape on itself to stick to the "tails" side
> too. Now you have a handle to slide the washer into the fork with! Once
> the pivot bolt is in place, pull the tape and it'll come right off of the
> washer (there's not that much area to stick to). Quick, easy, beats trying
> to use a screwdriver, magnet, needle-nose, etc. to slide it into that little
> space...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming roller rockers |
Yes. I believe roller rockers were STC'd on Lycomings by a fellow in
Portland, OR named Ken Hatfield. Unfortunately he is no longer with us.
Some others in the PDX/Home Wing area might have more info on them. His
shop was on the Troutdale airport east of Portland. Someone may be able to
locate them on an STC search.
Mike McGee N996RV
>
> Wonder if
>anybody has considered roller rockers for the Lycosaurus?
>Tom Glover Surrey BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder question ... |
Pull the unit and open up the cover. Is the internal fuse blown again? If so,
replace it one more time and reinstall unit. Check the antenna cable connection
on the back of the mounting tray and check the end that actually connects to the
antenna to be sure you have a good path from unit to antenna. While you're at
it, visually check the antenna for signs of damage. Just a starting
point...keep us posted on what you find.
"James E. Clark" wrote:
>
> Not exactly RV, but it MIGHT be some day ....
>
> Background:
>
> Aircraft = Piper Archer II
> Transponder = King KT78(A??)
>
> Just before entering Orlando Class B airspace enroute to SnF, my transponder
> decided to call it quits. This was not amusing to the controller as a) he
> had just given me a sqawk code, b) I was close to the 30 mile "Mode C Veil"
> and c) it was **REALLY** busy.
>
> Took it to Gulf Coast Avionics and pleaded for help. One of the good people
> there took it overnight back to the shop (@ LAL now) and bench tested it. To
> my surprise the next morning he had it ready ... just a blown (internal)
> fuse. So far so good (I think).
>
> I make it home OK but when I decide to go flying on Sunday, about 5 minutes
> after takeoff, it goes silent **AGAIN**! I turn back (in Class C, head
> toward Class B ) and put the plane away ... disgusted and puzzled.
>
> Now, finally the question(s) ...
>
> Does anyone out there have any idea of what MIGHT be happening here?
> Have any of you experienced this before?
> Should I "get it fixed" again, or move up to a more "modern" transponder?
> Are transponders one of those things that it is best to just replace every
> 20 years??
>
> Anybody got a good deal on a slightly used KT78, KT76, KT76A or *maybe*
> KT76C??
>
> Just thought I would ask ...
>
> James
>
> RV6AQB ... tailfeather fiberglass stuff and sliding canopy
> Columbia, SC
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder -failure- question ... |
James,
Regarding a replacement transponder. Give Van's a call, I just ordered
a KT76C from them. It included the tray, wiring and ant. They had the
best pricing around.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A QB due May
******************************88
>From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Transponder question ...
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:54:36 -0400
>
>
>Not exactly RV, but it MIGHT be some day ....
>
>
>Background:
>
>Aircraft = Piper Archer II
>Transponder = King KT78(A??)
>
>Just before entering Orlando Class B airspace enroute to SnF, my
transponder
>decided to call it quits. This was not amusing to the controller as
a) he
>had just given me a sqawk code, b) I was close to the 30 mile "Mode C
Veil"
>and c) it was **REALLY** busy.
>
>Took it to Gulf Coast Avionics and pleaded for help. One of the good
people
>there took it overnight back to the shop (@ LAL now) and bench tested
it. To
>my surprise the next morning he had it ready ... just a blown
(internal)
>fuse. So far so good (I think).
>
>I make it home OK but when I decide to go flying on Sunday, about 5
minutes
>after takeoff, it goes silent **AGAIN**! I turn back (in Class C,
head
>toward Class B ) and put the plane away ... disgusted and
puzzled.
>
>Now, finally the question(s) ...
>
>Does anyone out there have any idea of what MIGHT be happening here?
>Have any of you experienced this before?
>Should I "get it fixed" again, or move up to a more "modern"
transponder?
>Are transponders one of those things that it is best to just replace
every
>20 years??
>
>Anybody got a good deal on a slightly used KT78, KT76, KT76A or
*maybe*
>KT76C??
>
>Just thought I would ask ...
>
>James
>
>RV6AQB ... tailfeather fiberglass stuff and sliding canopy
>Columbia, SC
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Doug,
As far as removing the extra buildup, I don't know of a quick way other than
to remove the offending material by any way possible. Maybe a little
pressure with a small wood chisel.
If you're getting that much resin seeping out, your lay-up is too wet.
Lay-up the cloth on some aluminum foil first and squeegee the excess out.
Then cut a strip off and take it over to your cowl. Lay it up upside down
and peel off the foil. Nice and dry, straight, and no mess.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowl hinges
>
>Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the
hinges to the
>cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
install the
>hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I see
that the
>'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the area
between
>the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this
challenge.
>I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril
tool - a long
>a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from creating
this
>problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the hinge
but am
>afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks for your help. I might conquer this fiberglass thing yet :-)
>
>Doug Murray RV-6
>Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
>
Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
install the
> hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I see that
the
> 'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the area between
> the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this challenge.
I used a small wood chisel (1/4") in a prying motion to remove the
excess resin. Worked out pretty good for me.
Carroll Bird RV-4
Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
>>>Most two-seat aerobatic aircraft are flown solo from the back seat.
Why? The pilot needs to have a clear view or the wing tips to establish a
clean line through the manuver, and in addition, the longer sight line of
the aircraft forward is an aid to positioning.>>>>>
While it is true that the view is better, the bigger reason is that there
is very little CG shift with the addition of or deletion of a passenger
since the front seat is very close to the CG. From a weight and balance
standpoint, the pilot should be in back. Of course there are other
considerations such as visibility and access to the panel, but back seat
solo can be done. Dag Hoegsveen, DAAGH(at)aol.com, is also planing on
building one with rear seat solo.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
> Doug,
>
> As far as removing the extra buildup, I don't know of a quick way other than
> to remove the offending material by any way possible. Maybe a little
> pressure with a small wood chisel.
>
> If you're getting that much resin seeping out, your lay-up is too wet.
> Lay-up the cloth on some aluminum foil first and squeegee the excess out.
> Then cut a strip off and take it over to your cowl. Lay it up upside down
> and peel off the foil. Nice and dry, straight, and no mess.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting"
>
> >
> >Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the
> hinges to the
> >cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
> install the
> >hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I see
> that the
> >'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the area
> between
> >the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this
> challenge.
> >I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril
> tool - a long
> >a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from creating
> this
> >problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the hinge
> but am
> >afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
> >
> >Any thoughts?
> >
> >Thanks for your help. I might conquer this fiberglass thing yet :-)
> >
> >Doug Murray RV-6
> >Southern Alberta
Thanks Everyone
I'll get back down to the workshop and give it another try. It was just sort of
depressing to go to the shop the other day all pumped up about finally having
the lower cowl hinges bonded on and then finding that I couldn't get them on :-(
I really appreciate all you guys & gals out there. I hope that we can all meet
someday.
Thanks again,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
> Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or
for
> that matter a 4.
>
>Stearmans use small diameter push/pull tubes
>between the front and rear quadrants. Also, take a
>look at a cub or a champ and see how they do it.
In my Skybolt, there are two throttle quadrants with prop, throttle and
mixture in each. the back is connected to the front by I believe 3/16
rods and the front is connected to the cables going to the engine. In
fifteen years of flying, I can say the need for the front seat passenger
to adjust the prop or mixture has never come up. It can be done, but
IMHO, throttle is sufficient for the passenger.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps "Long post warning" 75,78,82,88-89,92-95,101,106-107,109,111,115,119-122,127-135 |
Since he is using aeroduct to the oil cooler, he might have a bird's nest
obstructing the duct. One can not begin to imagine how much grass, etc. a
bird or two at this time of year can place under the cowl and inside nice
secure, for birds, duct work, is a very short time. It is nesting time!
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: High oil temps "Long post warning"
75,78,82,88-89,92-95,101,106-107,109,111,115,119-122,127-135
>
>
>>Got a problem, at least I think I do. when I am running my engine hard
>>>2400
>>rpm or climbing my oil temp is getting out of hand. At 2300 cruise it
>>will
>>stay about 210 degrees but when I put more power into it wants to
>>climb.
>>I ran into a situation yesterday when a 172 was able to out climb me
>>because
>>my oil temp kept trying to red line. I was most embarrased.
>>
>>Here are a few specifics:
>>Firewall mounted positech oil cooler (for O360), Vans mount and duct
>>kit
>>(3"), RV6A with an 0320-E3D.
>>
>>CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate
>>(high
>>AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling
>>outlet and
>>this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50
>>deg
>>with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
>>
>>Cooler is mounted horizontal to the firewall with the I/O fittings
>>sitting
>>on the forward side as per Vans drawings. Duct comes from R rear
>>baffle.
>>
>>Oil temp sender/guage is Issopro frm Vans.
>>
>>OAT has all been below 80 deg/f.
>>
>>
>-
>Is that OAT measured at ground level or 10,000 ft?
>For example an OAT of 80 at 10,000 ft is very warm. Couple that with
>the fact that the greatly reduced air density at that altitude has a
>major effect on overall cooling.
>I will assume that 80 F. was the temp. near ground level. If that is
>the case then you definitely have a problem.
>-
>
>
>>One thing I am concerned about is that the oil cooler could have an
>>airpocket in it due to the way it is mounted. I haven't heard of any
>>problems like this but.....
>-
>The only mounting position that I have ever heard can be a problem with
>air entrapment is if you mount the cooler with the in and out ports
>facing down.
>
>I would like to re mention what I have before (lots of stuff in the
>archives about this) ... If you live in a hot environment, firewall
>mounting the oil cooler and feeding air with a Scat hose is the "least"
>effective method of
>installing an oil cooler on an RV.
>Mounted on the rear baffle seems best,
>Mounted on the left baffle inlet ramp is second best,
>and mounted on the firewall is the least effective.
>
>Of course this is "my" opinion, but I have been around enough RV's in hot
>environments to believe this is correct.
>
>My first thought is that high CHT temps along with the oil temp is
>probably indicating something.
>Now you just have to find out what.
>
>Is this an airplane that is newly flying or has it been flying for quite
>a while and suddenly developed this problem?
>
>Here is a few things to check/verify. Many of them may seem quite
>elementary, but since I don't know what you know I will mention them.
>
>The baffle and baffle seal fabric installation is something that many
>builders have trouble with getting a good quality installation.
>I have seen some builders even leave off the fwd baffle that closes off
>the area behind the ring gear/prop. hub because they had never seen it on
>a cert. aircraft, and thought it wasn't needed.
>In higher air temps a total baffle leakage area of just 2 or 3 square
>inches can be significant ( I have seen RV's with nearly double that and
>the builder thought it was not a big deal). Make sure all of the baffles
>fit
>tightly and have no gaps to the engine. Make sure their are no areas
>that when the baffle plenum is under pressure (their is a lot more than
>you might think) that no portion of the baffles can push outward and make
>a gap (leak). Check the inside surface of your top cowl to be sure that
>rub marks from the baffle seal are visible on the entire perimeter of the
>baffle plenum (no rub mark in an area means a leak).
>
>Are the fiberglass inlet ramps that come with the cowl installed on the
>upper cowl air inlets? If these are left off it can have a major effect
>on engine cooling (particularly at high angles of attack).
>
>
>Check the Vernatherm valve operation (lots of stuff in the archives)
>Contrary to what was already mentioned the vernatherm closes (gets
>longer) an oil port when the oil gets hot. This valve is opening and
>closing a by-pass path that lets cold (thick) oil by-pass the oil filter
>and cooler until it has gotten hot. If you heat it in a pan of water it
>should grow in length (I think Lycoming has a S.B. on what the length
>change is supposed to be).
>You can also be sure that it is sealing on the seat correctly. Their
>should be evidence of even contact on the seat end of the vernatherm but
>it should not have a groove worn into it. Their are tools available for
>resurfacing the seat in the filter adapter, and I think for the end of
>the vernatherm itself.
>
>Verify that the oil temp gauge is accurate (considering the high CHT's it
>sounds like it probably is).
>The Isspro style sender requires that it have a good ground connection to
>the airframe ground reference (where the gauge itself is grounded).
>Sometimes they get installed with a bunch of thread sealant slightly
>insulating the sender from the engine. This can cause incorrect
>readings. If use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between the sender
>body and the airframe it should be very near zero ohm's.
>You can remove the sender and check in a pot of boiling water which
>should give you a good idea of its accuracy at the boiling temp of water
>for your altitude (remember to attach a temporary ground lead from the
>body of the sender to the airframe).
>
>Lastly, problems with the engine itself could be causing you trouble.
>
>Incorrect induction mixture could be causing all of your temps to run
>high. Also excessive ring blow-by can allow more hot gasses than normal,
>blow passed the rings into the oil sump which then raises the oil
>temperature (Usually a lot of oil vapor will be blowing out the engine
>crank case breather if this is very much of a problem).
>
>I hope this at least gives you a start on tracking down the problem.]
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Free to a Good Home |
Need to get my rollabout wing storage gizmo out of the hangar... Six
padded cut-outs cradle each wing on a stout platform. Casters and push
handles for ease of movement. Location: 100 SM north of El Paso, just
off I-25. Email direct, please.
Jim RV6A radio installation
________________________________________________________________________________
Doug and others; I used Pro-Seal in addition to riveting to attach the
hinges on the cowling and highly recommend it. I would think resin would
be a much more difficult way to do it, because it is considerably thinner
and seems like it would ooze and run all over the place. Also it cures
quicker, so you would probably have to mix up two or three batches to do
the cowling. The Pro-Seal does not dry hard and thus will resist
vibration well. Even with Pro-Seal, just a small 1/8" ribbon down the
middle of the hinge is all you need, the rivets are what actually holds
it on. The Pro-Seal merely 'cushions' it so as to eliminate cracking
later. Just my opinion.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8 (11 hours)
>
>
>>Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond
>the
>>hinges to the
>>cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I
>cannot
>>install the
>>hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer
>
>>I see that the
>>'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in
>the
>>area between
>>the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with
>>this challenge.
>>I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small
>Dremril
>>tool - a long
>>a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from
>>creating this
>>problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the
>>hinge but am
>>afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
>>
>>Any thoughts?
>>
>Doug,
>It sounds like you are using waaaaaaay to much resin.
>The rivets are capable of doing on the work on there own. Bonding them
>on
>just helps it hold up under long term vibration. Start using just
>enough
>to get the mat cloth wetted out.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
>reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G.A.Loeffler" <irlgmbh(at)okay.net> |
Dear list,
I'm making strong decision towards ordering a RV-4. Probably can get engine
which was intended for a RV-3. Question is: does the -3 engine mount also
fit the -4? what are the differences (size, thrustline, CG)?
loef
-----Ursprngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Carroll Bird
An: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Datum: Dienstag, 20. April 1999 15:32
Betreff: Re: RV-List: cowl hinges
>
>Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>>
>>
> Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
>install the
>> hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I
see that the
>> 'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the
area between
>> the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this
challenge.
>
> I used a small wood chisel (1/4") in a prying motion to remove the
>excess resin. Worked out pretty good for me.
>
> Carroll Bird RV-4
> Buffalo Gap, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
I am wanting to "neet up" the joint between the fiberglass tip and the top
wing skin! My fit, while not too bad, has a wider than desirable gap between
the skin and the lip of the recess made into the fiberglass. I'm not sure
what method to use here. The tips are already installed with #6 screws and
the bottom joint is up tight. Any advice from you who have there will be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Tommy
6A Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Clark <hclark(at)us.oracle.com> |
Scott Kuebler Wrote:
"Don't forget to have a regulator and water filter built in somewhere easily accessible
and close the
project."
Scott,
Any recommendations on water filters. I heard some are not very effective. Also,
how close is close?
Thanks,
Howard Clark
title: Branch Manager
note: Office (813) 287-3366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip fit |
>
>I am wanting to "neet up" the joint between the fiberglass tip and the top
>wing skin! My fit, while not too bad, has a wider than desirable gap
between
>the skin and the lip of the recess made into the fiberglass. I'm not sure
>what method to use here. The tips are already installed with #6 screws and
>the bottom joint is up tight. Any advice from you who have there will be
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Tommy
>6A Ridgetop, TN
>
Tommy,
My first advice is that if it's not too bad, leave it alone. I may not
become noticeable when it's painted and you have a better opportunity to
make it uglier if you screw up the fix.
If that won't work, here's what I'd do. Remove the tip and place one,
evenly spread layer of duct tape on the aluminum, wrapping it around the
edge of the aluminum. Remount the tip. Fill the gap with Bondo. Sand it
down smooth with the duct tape. Carefully remove the tip and remove the
duct tape. Clean up the Bondo edge and use a piece of sandpaper on a paint
stick or something similar. Sand the Bondo edge back about 1/16" in order
to give you room for paint. Slightly round the edge to avoid chipping.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nesting Season!! |
You may think "yeah, right" regarding birds nests, I
was shocked to find one between the #2 and #4 cyl on
my C-150 Sunday! I *barely* could see it, too, it
surely would've been easy to miss! I found it after
noticing some bird crap on my prop while pulling the
prop through during preflight, and while I always do
take a look into the inlets, there was only a couple
of small sticks / grass sticking up where you could
actually see them. I then reached in and there was a
5" across full blown nest, complete with a little
blue egg! I put it into the C-210's cowl next to my
plane that is missing it's nose gear (been sitting
tail-up for months, hope the little birdie finds it's
nest.... )
I had not flown the plane in about 10 days as I went
off to Sun N. Fun, and I *know* it wasn't there 10
days ago as I had the cowl off changing the oil at
that time. The little suckers can build a nest
QUICK, in a couple of days I'd guess.
The moral of the story here is: Full Preflight, EVERY
time. It could make your day!
BTW -- AT SNF I happened to go by JPI's booth several
times, I noticed many many people look at the booth
and then pointedly NOT go over to it. There were
times when the hall was busy as all get-out but the
JPI booth was customer-less. There was even a NO-JPI
sticker / button on the front of the booth for a
day!! They didn't even notice!!
---Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Since he is using aeroduct to the oil cooler, he
might have a bird's nest
> obstructing the duct. One can not begin to imagine
how much grass, etc. a
> bird or two at this time of year can place under
the cowl and inside nice
> secure, for birds, duct work, is a very short time.
It is nesting time!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing tip fit |
TOMMY,
I USED A DIE GRINDER TO CUT ABOUT 1/8 INCH ALL THE WAY DOWN, THE SKIN MATCHES
PERFECTLY .
SCOTT
WINGING IT IN TAMPA
AT A MUCH FASTER RATE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8, 8A Rear Power Control Console |
The radial engine, 2 seat Pitts I saw at SnF had a prop control using a push
tube between cockpits. It had a handle for each seat that was unlocked in
the horizontal position and locked when rotated either up or down. Used a
couple universal joints to accommodate rotating the push tube. I couldn't
see how they implemented the friction lock.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone put a throttle/prop control console in the rear of a 8 or for
> that matter a 4.
>
> I didn't see much written on it in the archives. I have the rear
> seat rudder
> pedals & want to have the option to control the engine & prop
> from the rear
> seat. I checked in Van's accessory catalog and found nothing. If
> anyone has
> been down this path & found a solution, I would appreciate any advise.
>
> Thanks.....Mark
>
>
> Mark Steffensen
> Allen, TX 75013
> Fuselage 80783
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
>
> Any recommendations on water filters. I heard some are not very
> effective. Also, how close is close?
Got mine at the same Home Depot where I got the compressor. It's a
smallish plexi cup with drain on the bottom like a fuel sample point.
I know this puppy works because I regularly have it half full of water
after a day's riveting and drilling. I can also screw off the cup to
clean out other debris that collects (probably rust from the air tank).
Better to have that stuff there than in my tools!
Mounted it by the regulator on the wall where the outlets are.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings and Things
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | FInal RV Forum reminder |
Fellow Listers:
One last reminder and I'll keep quiet... Twin Cities RV Forum, Red Wing, MN.
This Saturday, April 24 0800-1700. Guests: Bill Benedict, Larry Vetterman,
George Orndorf. Lyle Hefel is planning to bring the most beautiful RV-8 I
have ever seen weather permitting. RV Air Race, door prizes, workshop, etc.
etc. Banquet at 1800 (we need to have the final banquet count by Thursday
morning). Details at
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/rvforum.html
Doug
do no archive
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nesting Season!! |
One of our Skyhawk club members said that birds would NOT build a nest in a
dark hanger. Boy was he wrong.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 12:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nesting Season!!
>
>You may think "yeah, right" regarding birds nests, I
>was shocked to find one between the #2 and #4 cyl on
>my C-150 Sunday! I *barely* could see it, too, it
>surely would've been easy to miss! I found it after
>noticing some bird crap on my prop while pulling the
>prop through during preflight, and while I always do
>take a look into the inlets, there was only a couple
>of small sticks / grass sticking up where you could
>actually see them. I then reached in and there was a
>5" across full blown nest, complete with a little
>blue egg! I put it into the C-210's cowl next to my
>plane that is missing it's nose gear (been sitting
>tail-up for months, hope the little birdie finds it's
>nest.... )
>
>I had not flown the plane in about 10 days as I went
>off to Sun N. Fun, and I *know* it wasn't there 10
>days ago as I had the cowl off changing the oil at
>that time. The little suckers can build a nest
>QUICK, in a couple of days I'd guess.
>
>The moral of the story here is: Full Preflight, EVERY
>time. It could make your day!
>
>BTW -- AT SNF I happened to go by JPI's booth several
>times, I noticed many many people look at the booth
>and then pointedly NOT go over to it. There were
>times when the hall was busy as all get-out but the
>JPI booth was customer-less. There was even a NO-JPI
>sticker / button on the front of the booth for a
>day!! They didn't even notice!!
>
>
>---Cy Galley wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> Since he is using aeroduct to the oil cooler, he
>might have a bird's nest
>> obstructing the duct. One can not begin to imagine
>how much grass, etc. a
>> bird or two at this time of year can place under
>the cowl and inside nice
>> secure, for birds, duct work, is a very short time.
> It is nesting time!
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | info(at)buildersbooks.com |
| Subject: | Pazmany's books? |
If anybody has any of L. Pazmany's aircraft design books, could you
please look inside the cover and tell me who the publisher is, or how I
can get in touch of the author.
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
I have a Craftsman water filter and it has worked fine, as far as I can tell.
I think I payed about $25 for it.
As for the location of the filter: just make sure it is somewhere in the second
half of the air line (the half closest to the project). This helps to trap
water that has condensed in the air line, after leaving the compressor.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
Scott,
Any recommendations on water filters. I heard some are not very effective. Also,
how close is close?
Thanks,
Howard Clark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Pazmany's books? |
Andy,
From "Landing Gear Design fro Light Aircraft - Vol.1"
1st edidtion, May 1986
Published by:
Pazmany Aircraft Corp
P.O. Box 80051
San Diego, CA
92138
Someone else may have a telephone #.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Apr 20, 1999 11:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pazmany's books?
If anybody has any of L. Pazmany's aircraft design books, could you
please look inside the cover and tell me who the publisher is, or how I
can get in touch of the author.
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition Harness Question |
How does one get the ignition harness through the hole in the baffles.
I bought some ignition wire seals and cut the slot/hole in the rear of
my baffle but the spark plug end of the harness will not fit through
the hole. Do I disassemble my new Slick harnesses? If so, how?
My split seals are two wire jobs that I bought from Aircraft Spruce
and only require a 11/16" elongated hole in the baffle. Van's baffle
instructions show diamond shape cutouts for the seals. Is this what I
need? Where do I get such seals?
TIA
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
>
>Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
>rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
>exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
>internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
>afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-)
If you are looking to hot-rod your engine, I would contact the folks at
Lycon, in Visalia, CA. They do a lot of biz with the racer folk. OTOH, if
you are going to run the engine with stock red-line (2700 RPM) you aren't
going to get much additional power with a cam change.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Consultant3, Cmtsd" <cmtsd.consultant3(at)cmtsd.mea.com> |
| Subject: | Pazmany's books? |
Paz's phone number is (619) 224-7330.
Ken Brown
Pazmany PL-2 Newletter Editor
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Owens [SMTP:owens(at)Aerovironment.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Pazmany's books?
>
>
> Andy,
> From "Landing Gear Design fro Light Aircraft - Vol.1"
> 1st edidtion, May 1986
> Published by:
>
> Pazmany Aircraft Corp
> P.O. Box 80051
> San Diego, CA
> 92138
> Someone else may have a telephone #.
> Laird
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Apr 20, 1999 11:39 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Pazmany's books?
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> If anybody has any of L. Pazmany's aircraft design books, could you
> please look inside the cover and tell me who the publisher is, or how
> I
> can get in touch of the author.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder question ... |
If the first two posts don't pan out - Old transponders have a 'tube'
type component which will burn out. The new ones are solid state.
Someone just offered me a used narco (approx 15 to 20 yrs old). I
figure I won't pay over $300 as one never knows when it'll quit. The
component cost is alomost as much as a new one. New solid state is my
choice.
>
> Just before entering Orlando Class B airspace enroute to SnF, my transponder
> decided to call it quits. This was not amusing to the controller as a) he
> had just given me a sqawk code, b) I was close to the 30 mile "Mode C Veil"
> and c) it was **REALLY** busy.
>
> Took it to Gulf Coast Avionics and pleaded for help. One of the good people
> there took it overnight back to the shop (@ LAL now) and bench tested it. To
> my surprise the next morning he had it ready ... just a blown (internal)
> fuse. So far so good (I think).
>
> I make it home OK but when I decide to go flying on Sunday, about 5 minutes
> after takeoff, it goes silent **AGAIN**! I turn back (in Class C, head
> toward Class B ) and put the plane away ... disgusted and puzzled.
>
> Now, finally the question(s) ...
>
> Does anyone out there have any idea of what MIGHT be happening here?
> Have any of you experienced this before?
> Should I "get it fixed" again, or move up to a more "modern" transponder?
> Are transponders one of those things that it is best to just replace every
> 20 years??
>
> Anybody got a good deal on a slightly used KT78, KT76, KT76A or *maybe*
> KT76C??
>
> Just thought I would ask ...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | electrical loads |
i am trying to decide what to do as far as electrical backups.
for those of you who are flying, what is the "typical" load?
what would be an "emergency" load?
feel free to define these terms as you wish. depending on the responses, i
am considering a small 8 amp alternator as a backup to a 40 or 60 amp
alternator. this would mean going without a vacuum pump, thus electric
gyros.
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RTV in flaps and ailerons |
Do you need to put the dabs of RTV in the flaps and ailerons like are used
in the rudder and elevator?
Paul Riedlinger
paulried(at)ornaprod.com
http://paulried.home.mindspring.com (My RV-6A homepage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I have the epoxy type. Before putting on the resin mine fit perfect with
the hinges cleco's, after rivets and resin I thought someone switched
cowels, I not only had to dremel out the resin I had to shorten some of the
hinges to get it to fit( a real mess). I believe immediatly after applying
the rivets and resin I would stick it back on with the hinge pins in place
and let it dry. Without resin around the hinge pins.
RV6A Finsih kit
----------
> From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: cowl hinges
> Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 7:27 PM
>
>
> Listers - I have been working with polyester resin and mat to bond the
hinges to the
> cowl. Now that I have the first hinges installed, I find that I cannot
install the
> hinge pins when attempting to reinstall the cowl. Upon looking closer I
see that the
> 'seize out' of resin from under the hinges has started to fill in the
area between
> the eyes of the hinge. How are the rest of you builders dealing with this
challenge.
> I have thought about grinding out the extra resin with a small Dremril
tool - a long
> a tedious process - but is there a way to prevent the resin from creating
this
> problem? I thought of installing the cowl to the other half of the hinge
but am
> afraid that the bonding process might give me a permanent cowl.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks for your help. I might conquer this fiberglass thing yet :-)
>
> Doug Murray RV-6
> Southern Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness Question |
>From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Ignition Harness Question
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 13:19:15 -0600
>
>
>How does one get the ignition harness through the hole in the
baffles.
>I bought some ignition wire seals and cut the slot/hole in the rear
of
>my baffle but the spark plug end of the harness will not fit through
>the hole. Do I disassemble my new Slick harnesses? If so, how?
>
>My split seals are two wire jobs that I bought from Aircraft Spruce
>and only require a 11/16" elongated hole in the baffle. Van's baffle
>instructions show diamond shape cutouts for the seals. Is this what I
>need? Where do I get such seals?
>
>TIA
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A s/n 22993
>Pine Junction, CO
>
>
>Gary
> What you need to do is to move the screwing part of the harness
over the wire and then pass the wire thru the hole with the screw
part turned sideways on the wire. It should go thru easily without
forcing it.
Hope it helps
Alain Nantel
rv-6 ser#23113
Montreal Quebec canada
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness Question |
Do not dis-assemble. It can be done, but Slick has a special tool that
crimps it all together for a reliable end. You take it apart, and the
reliability goes down.
I have a round hole just big enough to get the plug end through. You can
only put one through at a time. After getting 3 leads through (6
cylinders), I put a split grommet around the leads and insert it into the
hole to protect the leads from the sharp edges of the baffling and to
minimize cooling air loss through the hole.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 3:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Harness Question
>
>How does one get the ignition harness through the hole in the baffles.
>I bought some ignition wire seals and cut the slot/hole in the rear of
>my baffle but the spark plug end of the harness will not fit through
>the hole. Do I disassemble my new Slick harnesses? If so, how?
>
>My split seals are two wire jobs that I bought from Aircraft Spruce
>and only require a 11/16" elongated hole in the baffle. Van's baffle
>instructions show diamond shape cutouts for the seals. Is this what I
>need? Where do I get such seals?
>
>TIA
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A s/n 22993
>Pine Junction, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV in flaps and ailerons |
Hi Paul:
It is my understanding that you should not place RTV in the TE's of your
flap and aileron. Main reason being that if you need to squeeze the TE of
your ailerons to correct a heavy wing condition (which is the accepted
method), the RTV would prevent you from doing this. Also, I have not heard
of fractures at the TE's of the flap and ailerons being a common problem,
which the RTV in the rudder is intended to prevent.
FYI, if you would like to see how I kept my aileron skeleton flat while
drilling/riveting the skin, email me off list and I can send you a pic.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
left tank
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 5:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: RTV in flaps and ailerons
>
>
>Do you need to put the dabs of RTV in the flaps and ailerons like are used
>in the rudder and elevator?
>
>
>Paul Riedlinger
>paulried(at)ornaprod.com
>http://paulried.home.mindspring.com (My RV-6A homepage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
I guess I'm a gearhead at heart too, but when I think about "hot cams", I
assume high revs are in the picture. Not too many people willing to spin
their Lyc's much above 2800 RPM.
Tom Barnes -6
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 9:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming camshafts
>
>Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
>rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
>exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
>internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
>afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-)
>
>Jon Elford
>RV6 #25201
>Flaps/Ailerons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder -failure- question ... |
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder -failure- question ...
>
>James,
>
>Regarding a replacement transponder. Give Van's a call, I just ordered
>a KT76C from them. It included the tray, wiring and ant. They had the
>best pricing around.
>
>Chuck Rowbotham
>RV-8A QB due May
>
I was about to buy a KT76C because I like the altitude readout. My local
avionis shop says it requires a $150 cooling fan! I'm going with the
IIMorrow GPS because it requires NO cooling whatever, but I'm not so sure
the KT76C is such a good deal any more.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit (not getting finished very fast)
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
: RV-List: Shielded Wire?
>
> I bought the wiring kit from Van's, and there is some SHIELDED
> M27500/18-14gauge wire.
If any of you need shielded wire this is a simple and inexpensive way get
it.
Take a piece of co-axial cable RG-58 or similiar will do. Carefully cut
the black covering off without cutting the braid inside. Remove the
covering, take the wire in your hands and push both hands together, the
braid will balloon outwards. Do this along the length of the wire and
easily pull out the inner insulated wire. Presto, you now have a shielded
casing that you can insert a wire of your choice and then pull the shield
tight. A foot or ten feet works equally well
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nesting Season!! |
>
> One of our Skyhawk club members said that birds would NOT build a nest in
a
> dark hanger. Boy was he wrong.
>
>
Heard or read somewhere that birds and other pests (ie: mice) do not like a
concoction of cayenne pepper and vegetable oil, you mix up a batch and paint
it on the hangar beam directly above the airplane to keep the birds from
crapping on your nice paint job. Wonder if some on a small tray sitting in
the cowl cheeks might keep them out? I haven't tried this so can't say it
works for sure but seems like a potent mixture. Any takers?? I am lucky to
be in a hangar with doors so no problem so far.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
> Doug and others; I used Pro-Seal in addition to riveting to attach the
> hinges on the cowling and highly recommend it. I would think resin would
> be a much more difficult way to do it, because it is considerably thinner
> and seems like it would ooze and run all over the place. Also it cures
> quicker, so you would probably have to mix up two or three batches to do
> the cowling. The Pro-Seal does not dry hard and thus will resist
> vibration well. Even with Pro-Seal, just a small 1/8" ribbon down the
> middle of the hinge is all you need, the rivets are what actually holds
> it on. The Pro-Seal merely 'cushions' it so as to eliminate cracking
> later. Just my opinion.
>
> Von Alexander
> N41VA(at)juno.com
> RV-8 (11 hours)
Von - Excellent ideas there. I have found that a 3/8" wood chisel will peal out
the resin between the hinge pins so that I can correct the difficulty I had
given myself. I think that your ideas sound like they will help me avoid the
extra labor on the next set of hinges.
Thanks very much to all for your suggestions.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip fit |
>
>I am wanting to "neet up" the joint between the fiberglass tip and the top
>wing skin! My fit, while not too bad, has a wider than desirable gap between
>the skin and the lip of the recess made into the fiberglass. I'm not sure
>what method to use here. The tips are already installed with #6 screws and
>the bottom joint is up tight. Any advice from you who have there will be
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Tommy
>6A Ridgetop, TN
Tommy,
I would recommend just living with the slight imperfection. All the RVs I
have seen with filler/bondo etc in this gap have eventually cracked leading
to a much more unsightly finish.
Leo Davies
Waiting for a paint booth (and not filling in the metal to fibreglass
junctions)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nesting Season!! |
being new to the list what does jpl stand for?
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I just thought I would relate a story that might be of interest to many. I
have been the proud owner of a Lycoming 0-320 A2B for the last 2 years. For
4 years before that, it sat in the garage of the A+ACY-P that I bought it from.
All he had done since removing it from a wind damaged airplane was fill it
with oil and leave it alone. He drained the oil out before I got the
engine, and I never refilled it. I live in Illinois, not Arizona, so the
engine has been subject to all kinds of temp and humidity fluctuations over
the years. Last night, I worked up my courage and pulled a cylinder to see
what, if anything I was going to need to do to make this engine airworthy.
The inside of the engine was beautiful+ACEAIQAh- No rust to speak of on either
the
cylinders or camshaft. There appeared to still be a light film of oil
covering everything. While I'm not recommending this storage procedure,
it's hard to argue with what I saw. When I described the condition to my
friendly AI/DAR, he said,+ACI-put the jug back on and run it+ACI-. Maybe I was
just
lucky, or maybe sometimes we get a little too anal about how we do things.
I think these engines are tougher than we give them credit for.
Joe Rex
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pazmany's books? |
> -If anybody has any of L. Pazmany's aircraft design books, could you
> please look inside the cover and tell me who the publisher is, or how I
> can get in touch of the author.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
Andy - I have 'Light Airplane Construction ' by L. Pazmany. It was published
by the author and copyrighted in 1970. His address at that time was P.O. Box
1051, San Diego, California. 92110.
Hope this helps
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder -failure- question ... |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> >
> >James,
> >
> >Regarding a replacement transponder. Give Van's a call, I just ordered
> >a KT76C from them. It included the tray, wiring and ant. They had the
> >best pricing around.
> >
> >Chuck Rowbotham
> >RV-8A QB due May
> >
> I was about to buy a KT76C because I like the altitude readout. My local
> avionis shop says it requires a $150 cooling fan! I'm going with the
> IIMorrow GPS because it requires NO cooling whatever, but I'm not so sure
> the KT76C is such a good deal any more.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit (not getting finished very fast)
> Hampshire, IL
>
Sure the electronics shop would like to sell you a $150.00 fan but there are
some cheaper ways to cool it such as a tube from your cool air inlet.
We have a place locally called Wacky Willys that sell a lot of computer
and electronic junk, you can buy a fan and ducted it to the radio stack or
transponder. Another way is to go to your local camping store and buy a
small 12 volt pump for air mattress these things put out a lot of air.
I have one that looks like a miniature hair dryer that I hook up to
the my airplane electrical system to pump up air mattress if I am camping
at a flyin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder question ... |
I had a radio problem once that was similar -- it would blow a fuse and
after replacement of the fuse would work fine for a while then blow again.
Turned out to be a loose screw rattling around inside the unit that would
occasionally roll up against a power trace and blow the fuse. Maybe try
taking the thing out and shaking it a bit and see if anything's rattling
around in there? If its not that you might take the cover and check for
shorting wires/chafed insulation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness Question |
>How does one get the ignition harness through the hole in the baffles.
When I initially fit my baffles I carefully cut a figure-eight hole the
shape of the protrusion in or the nylon through-bushing that came with the
engine. A fellow builder came over and pointed out my error -- there's no
reason except that it looks pretty to make the hole the size of the
protrusion. The correct way (with this type of bushing anyway) is to make
the hole large enough to get the wires through.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The Team Rocket "Check Six!" |
Hey Rocket men and RVers,
Team Rocket is putting together a newsletter, called "Check Six!". The first
letter will be issued probably after Skosh (3rd Qrt 99). This will be the
same format as the RV-ator (sep better), only for Rockets. We have alot of
great ideas, cost savings, tech tips, Builder photos, and interesting reading
available. Plus any updates to our kit or plans or tips on how to construct
easier, faster, or more effective will also be included. If you have any
input, tech tips that you think could benefit Rocket builders, pictures of
your Rocket (complete or not), suggestions, builder tips, etc. please send
them to:
Team Rocket
Check Six!
2731 S.E. Tailwinds Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33478
Cost will be $25 per year for subscription, and it will be issued Quarterly.
We strongly urge every Rocket builder to subscribe. This is a great means to
stay abreast of all changes, tips, and fresh new ideas that some of our more
experienced builders may have.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temps "Long post |
warning"75,78,82,88-89,92-95,101,106-107,109,111,115,119-122,127-135
My Two cents: I have been down this road on my first Home built, a Midget
Mustang II. I had the cooler mounted on the firewall right side low. I had
some trouble getting the temp down. I ran a lot of different test. I finally put
a small tab on the fwd part of the of the cooler and that helped some. The
problem was that the outlet seemed to get blocked with exit air. I finally
located it as low as possible to try to get some exit air trying to create a
flow. On my second Home Built an RV-6 I located the cooler at the front left
cylinder and it worked much better. The only time the temp would get warm is in
the summer after about three touch and go landings. I feel that unless the
baffling is very tight to cause a tight seal the cooler does not get adequate
flow back on the firewall to cool adequately. This is my view only. Do not
archive.
Harvey waiting on RV-6A QB
smcdaniels(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> >Got a problem, at least I think I do. when I am running my engine hard
> >>2400
> >rpm or climbing my oil temp is getting out of hand. At 2300 cruise it
> >will
> >stay about 210 degrees but when I put more power into it wants to
> >climb.
> >I ran into a situation yesterday when a 172 was able to out climb me
> >because
> >my oil temp kept trying to red line. I was most embarrased.
> >
> >Here are a few specifics:
> >Firewall mounted positech oil cooler (for O360), Vans mount and duct
> >kit
> >(3"), RV6A with an 0320-E3D.
> >
> >CHT's seem to be ok but will redline if high power high climb rate
> >(high
> >AOA) is held for more than a few minutes. I opened up the cowling
> >outlet and
> >this seems to have improved the CHT problem. All chts are within 50
> >deg
> >with 1+2 the lowest and 3+4 higher.
> >
> >Cooler is mounted horizontal to the firewall with the I/O fittings
> >sitting
> >on the forward side as per Vans drawings. Duct comes from R rear
> >baffle.
> >
> >Oil temp sender/guage is Issopro frm Vans.
> >
> >OAT has all been below 80 deg/f.
> >
> >
> -
> Is that OAT measured at ground level or 10,000 ft?
> For example an OAT of 80 at 10,000 ft is very warm. Couple that with
> the fact that the greatly reduced air density at that altitude has a
> major effect on overall cooling.
> I will assume that 80 F. was the temp. near ground level. If that is
> the case then you definitely have a problem.
> -
>
> >One thing I am concerned about is that the oil cooler could have an
> >airpocket in it due to the way it is mounted. I haven't heard of any
> >problems like this but.....
> -
> The only mounting position that I have ever heard can be a problem with
> air entrapment is if you mount the cooler with the in and out ports
> facing down.
>
> I would like to re mention what I have before (lots of stuff in the
> archives about this) ... If you live in a hot environment, firewall
> mounting the oil cooler and feeding air with a Scat hose is the "least"
> effective method of
> installing an oil cooler on an RV.
> Mounted on the rear baffle seems best,
> Mounted on the left baffle inlet ramp is second best,
> and mounted on the firewall is the least effective.
>
> Of course this is "my" opinion, but I have been around enough RV's in hot
> environments to believe this is correct.
>
> My first thought is that high CHT temps along with the oil temp is
> probably indicating something.
> Now you just have to find out what.
>
> Is this an airplane that is newly flying or has it been flying for quite
> a while and suddenly developed this problem?
>
> Here is a few things to check/verify. Many of them may seem quite
> elementary, but since I don't know what you know I will mention them.
>
> The baffle and baffle seal fabric installation is something that many
> builders have trouble with getting a good quality installation.
> I have seen some builders even leave off the fwd baffle that closes off
> the area behind the ring gear/prop. hub because they had never seen it on
> a cert. aircraft, and thought it wasn't needed.
> In higher air temps a total baffle leakage area of just 2 or 3 square
> inches can be significant ( I have seen RV's with nearly double that and
> the builder thought it was not a big deal). Make sure all of the baffles
> fit
> tightly and have no gaps to the engine. Make sure their are no areas
> that when the baffle plenum is under pressure (their is a lot more than
> you might think) that no portion of the baffles can push outward and make
> a gap (leak). Check the inside surface of your top cowl to be sure that
> rub marks from the baffle seal are visible on the entire perimeter of the
> baffle plenum (no rub mark in an area means a leak).
>
> Are the fiberglass inlet ramps that come with the cowl installed on the
> upper cowl air inlets? If these are left off it can have a major effect
> on engine cooling (particularly at high angles of attack).
>
> Check the Vernatherm valve operation (lots of stuff in the archives)
> Contrary to what was already mentioned the vernatherm closes (gets
> longer) an oil port when the oil gets hot. This valve is opening and
> closing a by-pass path that lets cold (thick) oil by-pass the oil filter
> and cooler until it has gotten hot. If you heat it in a pan of water it
> should grow in length (I think Lycoming has a S.B. on what the length
> change is supposed to be).
> You can also be sure that it is sealing on the seat correctly. Their
> should be evidence of even contact on the seat end of the vernatherm but
> it should not have a groove worn into it. Their are tools available for
> resurfacing the seat in the filter adapter, and I think for the end of
> the vernatherm itself.
>
> Verify that the oil temp gauge is accurate (considering the high CHT's it
> sounds like it probably is).
> The Isspro style sender requires that it have a good ground connection to
> the airframe ground reference (where the gauge itself is grounded).
> Sometimes they get installed with a bunch of thread sealant slightly
> insulating the sender from the engine. This can cause incorrect
> readings. If use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between the sender
> body and the airframe it should be very near zero ohm's.
> You can remove the sender and check in a pot of boiling water which
> should give you a good idea of its accuracy at the boiling temp of water
> for your altitude (remember to attach a temporary ground lead from the
> body of the sender to the airframe).
>
> Lastly, problems with the engine itself could be causing you trouble.
>
> Incorrect induction mixture could be causing all of your temps to run
> high. Also excessive ring blow-by can allow more hot gasses than normal,
> blow passed the rings into the oil sump which then raises the oil
> temperature (Usually a lot of oil vapor will be blowing out the engine
> crank case breather if this is very much of a problem).
>
> I hope this at least gives you a start on tracking down the problem.]
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
I would also recommend calling Bart at Aerosport Power. Check the Yellow Pages
for phone number. Bart is very friendly and always available to talk.
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> >Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
> >rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
> >exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
> >internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
> >afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-)
>
> If you are looking to hot-rod your engine, I would contact the folks at
> Lycon, in Visalia, CA. They do a lot of biz with the racer folk. OTOH, if
> you are going to run the engine with stock red-line (2700 RPM) you aren't
> going to get much additional power with a cam change.
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV's Sarasota-Bradenton Area |
Hi to everyone in Sunny Florida. I will be visiting the Sarasota-Bradenton
Area between 30 April and 9 May. I would like to get together with RV
builders in the area. Please email me off-list if you are willing to allow me
to steal your ideas and photo them. (LOL)
Thanks,
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6QB
198RV (Reserved)
GLPalinkas(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
i am not sure about a 'hot cam ' for these low rpm engines. but maybe there
is a better grind .
do you want to increase power and efficiency?
you can get your cylinders reworked , porting and polishing , suppose to add
about 5hp per cylinder. get your valves and springs checked out.and fitted.
balancing of parts --maybe but not sure if it helps these engines , maybe
someone can answer that.
get your camshaft gear redrilled , so you change your cam timing to go with
the cyl work.
probably a good electronic system to go with your magneto ,
a fuel injection system......
i would love to see the dyno results before and after each additional hop up
to see how much it really effects the engine performance.
is it worth it ....not sure .....have i tried these ....most of them....
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Tuesday, 20 April 1999 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming camshafts
>
>I would also recommend calling Bart at Aerosport Power. Check the Yellow
Pages
>for phone number. Bart is very friendly and always available to talk.
>
>Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>>
>> >
>> >Does anyone know of or have any experience with any aftermarket "hot
>> >rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
>> >exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
>> >internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
>> >afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-)
>>
>> If you are looking to hot-rod your engine, I would contact the folks at
>> Lycon, in Visalia, CA. They do a lot of biz with the racer folk. OTOH,
if
>> you are going to run the engine with stock red-line (2700 RPM) you aren't
>> going to get much additional power with a cam change.
>>
>> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | InksterRC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nesting Season!! |
>
> One of our Skyhawk club members said that birds would NOT build a nest in
a
> dark hanger. Boy was he wrong.
Reminds me of a situation a friend experienced with her restored Piper Cub.
For five days straight she would go out to the airport and yank out a new
nest,
the little beggers were working overtime! She was told by a bird watcher
friend
that the bright yellow paint was attracting the birds. She didn't want to
cover the whole plane (fear if not the cowl, control openings etc. would be
targets). Her solution..
attach Hawk's eyes (decals) to the sides of the cowl. No more bird problem.
Maybe to a bird, but I can' t picture a "Cub" as a fearful bird of prey.
Hey, for all the Yellow RV's out there, an idea for a new paint scheme?
RV Birds Of Prey... tweeties & spam cans beware
Ralph
RV6A Calgary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Corrosion Control/Steel |
Just a quick question about corrosion control on our "steel" parts, namely the
elevator horns and similar parts. What do most of you do to prepare the
"inside" of the tubular portion on the horn? I am particularly interested in
knowing the best and easiest way to treat that portion of the parts that is
not easily accessed. Would it be "overkill" to have these parts blasted with
glass beads?
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Matronics Email Server Restored... |
Dear Listers,
As I have mentioned, there has been a problem with the Matronics Email
System machine over the last few weeks. The system would randomly lock
up and require a powercycle to restore operation. Often there would be
a few disk errors following the reboot, and these errors would cause
the 'blank messages' that a number of people mentioned.
Last night about 9:30pm the email system hung again and this time wouldn't
restart. Today I procured a whole new system to replace the old hardware
and as of 3:00pm the email system is back online and fully operational.
For those that are interested in such things, the new system is built around
a new ASUS P2B-DS Dual Pentium II mother board with builtin Ultra 2 SCSI
controller. I added two 400mhz Pentinum II processors and 512Mb of 100mhz
SDRAM and used the existing 4Gb Seagate Cheetah HD. The system is now similar
in configuration to the Matronics Web server and represents an over 2x increase
in performance over the older email system! It should also prove to be
enormously more reliable if the MTBF of the Matronics Web Server is
any indication! (The web server has been up for over 3 months at one
point and then I just took it down to move cables).
Anyway, those List email messages should just fly out of here now!
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator, Matronics
RV-4 Builder, Sometimes
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
I'm interested in the kit give me a call or leave your # so I can call you.
My # is
941-416-5876 Thanks, Eli
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Email Server Restored... |
Matt . . . back when you were receiving financial contributions to your
efforts, I did not send in anything. I now need to do this. Can you tell
me the procedure/address. Thanks.
rickjory(at)msn.com
(RV-8A tail)
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 5:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Matronics Email Server Restored...
925-606-1001)
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>As I have mentioned, there has been a problem with the Matronics Email
>System machine over the last few weeks. The system would randomly lock
>up and require a powercycle to restore operation. Often there would be
>a few disk errors following the reboot, and these errors would cause
>the 'blank messages' that a number of people mentioned.
>
>Last night about 9:30pm the email system hung again and this time wouldn't
>restart. Today I procured a whole new system to replace the old hardware
>and as of 3:00pm the email system is back online and fully operational.
>
>For those that are interested in such things, the new system is built
around
>a new ASUS P2B-DS Dual Pentium II mother board with builtin Ultra 2 SCSI
>controller. I added two 400mhz Pentinum II processors and 512Mb of 100mhz
>SDRAM and used the existing 4Gb Seagate Cheetah HD. The system is now
similar
>in configuration to the Matronics Web server and represents an over 2x
increase
>in performance over the older email system! It should also prove to be
>enormously more reliable if the MTBF of the Matronics Web Server is
>any indication! (The web server has been up for over 3 months at one
>point and then I just took it down to move cables).
>
>Anyway, those List email messages should just fly out of here now!
>
>Enjoy!
>
>Matt Dralle
>List Administrator, Matronics
>RV-4 Builder, Sometimes
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)mail.semy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Email Server Restored... |
>Matt,
Sounds good. Now if you could just get a good OS to go with it.
Gary Gunn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
I am interested in establishing or joining an RV builders "support" group in
LA
(Lower Alabama). More specifically, in or near Mobile, Alabama. If you are a
builder in this area, please contact me by the e-mail address below.
Thanks
Steve Bethea
Drgov(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Portable wing transports |
Does anybody have any plans are ideas for wing storage stands that
can be moved easily around a hanger.
Chris S. RV8
Festus,MO.
rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | W822 access covers |
RV-Listers,
Tonight I'm working on the W-822 access covers on the bottom of the
RV-8 wing. Will they sit down nice and flat as is, or should I roll
the edges slightly?
I believe that these covers mount a bit differently than those on the
earlier models as there is no separate mounting flange. The edges of
the openings in the wing skins are joggled to take the covers.
I would appreciate comments from RV-8 or 8A guys who are further
along than me here. Based on earlier comments about the fun of
sticking your arm through these holes during the riveting, I'm not
going to put the platenuts on until after riveting the skins on.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix P-lead hookup |
Listers,
Being new to the ways of magnetos, I'm not sure how to connect the
P-lead wire to the S4-20 mags on my newly acquired (used, but pretty)
engine. Evidently, some kind of threaded nut with the wire through it
is screwed onto the back of the mag case, and the end of the wire in
some way makes a connection onto a plate inside. So, is there a
connector kit that must be purchased, or perhaps some other way of
hooking it up?
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable wing transports |
Chris Santschi"
>
>Does anybody have any plans are ideas for wing storage stands that
>can be moved easily around a hanger.
>
>Chris S. RV8
Chris,
You might want to check the pics on my RV8 webpage for the wing
carriage that I made. It works very well, is sturdy and has furniture
casters on it. It rolls across a concrete floor with little effort.
The address is:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/index.html
Let me know if I can help you out with any particulars that are not
evident in the pics.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness Question |
In a message dated 4/20/99 12:58:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
<< Van's baffle
instructions show diamond shape cutouts for the seals. Is this what I
need? Where do I get such seals? >>
Lycoming might sell these, since they supply them with the new engines. If
they don't have then try Unison.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newby question |
G.A.Loeffler wrote:
>
Question is: does the -3 engine mount also
> fit the -4? what are the differences (size, thrustline, CG)?
>
> loef
>
It would probably depend on the engine. I don't think you could use the
mount. However, the finish kit comes with the engine mount, and would
probably fit the engine you have.
Carroll Bird RV-4
Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | New kid on the block |
Gang-opps! I mean RVers? I new to the list. I presently own a Grumman
Traveler and decided I've had enough with my FSDO. I trying to decide on
the following-
RV6 or 6A
RV 8 or 8A
Any suggestions on engine size and prop would be appreciated.
In fact any input on any of this would be helpful.
Do I really want to build an airplane?
Thanks
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)cwix.com> |
The RV-8 builders manual says to insert a 1 - 7/16" thick particle board
false spar to maintain the correct dimension between the F-804 halves.
I can find only 3/4" particle board, but can buy 23/32" thick plywood, two
thicknesses of which should make 1 - 7/16"
Can anyone think of a reason that won't work?
What did the rest of you do?
George
Fuselage on jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
A quick question in case my first message was lost to the server problem.
What is a good method for preparing the "inside" portion on the elevator
horns for priming??
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pazmany's books? |
>If anybody has any of L. Pazmany's aircraft design books, could you
>please look inside the cover and tell me who the publisher is, or how I
>can get in touch of the author.
>Thanks,Andy
LANDING GEAR DESIGN FOR LIGHT AIRCRAFT By Ladislao Pazmany
Published by:
Pazmany Aircraft Corporation
Post Office Box 80051
San Diego, Calif. 92138
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
> i am not sure about a 'hot cam ' for these low rpm engines. but maybe there
> is a better grind .
Higher compression pistons would produce more power, especially with improved
breathing, and at the same red line.
I suspect a lot of power could be gotten out for a brief period such as in a
race. I suppose there is a greater risk of a catastrophic failure tho.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Completed RV6/6A enpennage |
----------
> From: george murphy <george(at)atlantic.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Completed RV6/6A enpennage
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 10:27 AM
>
> I have a completed RV6/6A enpennage FOR SALE. Excellant workmanship,
> balanced, primed inside and out. Also have plans and builders manual.
Why
> spend all those months building when for a few dollers more you can have
it
> readt to go. Contact George at (352)-799-0922 or "george(at)atlantic.net"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | P-lead for Bendix mags |
Listers,
On my Bendix mags (S4-20), what kind of connector type thingy is used
to connect the P-lead wire? The end of the wire evidently needs some
sort of female threaded fitting to screw onto the mag case, and a pad
or blob of solder to make the connection on the inside? Strange
setup. Makes me contemplate just buying new Slicks or the Lasar
ignition system. Yeah, right...when I recover from the financial
devastation of the engine purchase!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
canopy frame
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder -failure- question ... |
According the King Rep at Oshkosh, the new KT76C does not have a
solid-state output stage, but uses the older klystron cavity tube like
its predecessors. I used a KT76C last Sunday, and the direct button
entry of the sqawk code sure is nice.
Garmin and Terra are the only transponders that I am aware of which are
advertised has being totally solid-state. I went with the Garmin, the
front panel of which appears to mimic the appearance of the King KT76A
series transponders. However, the Garmin unit is much shorter (30-40%?)
in depth. Have not flown yet, so can't give an operational report.
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix P-lead hookup |
Brian
Yes there is a connector for the p leads.
Consists ot a nut, phenolic barrel, gromet .
I believe ACS has them. You need a spare to
be able to use a timing device>
Stew CO RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
Lycon has dynoed more lycomings that anyone I know... As of a year ago they
still used the stock cam grind...
Several years ago you could get a Ritter cam, as I understood it the
thinking behind these was to open and close the valves faster, and let them
be on their seats for a longer time to aid in cooling. They were to give you
better torque, smoot5her running and improved economy, I don't remember
about the horsepower....
JARS used to run these ( jungle avaition and radio service?) they are
associated with Whcliffe bible translators and fly bush planes all over the
world Helio Couriers mostly..
I don't know if you could still get a Ritter cam, but I know the guy who
was once a partner of Clyde Ritters, So,,, e mail me back if you think it is
worth persuing....
Good luck...Mark Van Nuys fuel tanks and wing skins...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix P-lead hookup |
In a message dated 4/21/99 6:06:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Being new to the ways of magnetos, I'm not sure how to connect the
P-lead wire to the S4-20 mags on my newly acquired (used, but pretty)
engine. Evidently, some kind of threaded nut with the wire through it
is screwed onto the back of the mag case, and the end of the wire in
some way makes a connection onto a plate inside. So, is there a
connector kit that must be purchased, or perhaps some other way of
hooking it up? >>
I'm pretty sure that Sky Ranch has these. Check the Yeller Pages for the
number. The diagram for assembly is in Tony Bingelis' book "Firewall
Forward" pg. 202. The new ones are a little different from the diagram
(fewer pieces) but you'll get the general idea.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "toverton" <toverton(at)zapcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable wing transports |
Chris
Look on page 461 of the Aircraft Spruce Catalog and you can see how easy it
would be to build your own from the picture.
A few castors, some 2x4's a little plywood and some heavy strapping or
pieces of conveyor belt and you have it.
They sell theirs for $159. with out castors. I think you could
build the whole thing for $50. Hope this helps.
Tom Overton
Top Gun, Calif.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
I agree. I was not looking for a huge lift/duration "Burgerville
Cruiser" cam for my Lycoming, but was merely curious as to just how mild
the stock
Lyc cams are. If they are designed like everything else on these
things, I'm
guessing they are quite mild. These engines seem to be designed long on
run-forever-tractor-reliability (not necessarily a bad thing) and short
on modern technology in most respects. But this is the 90's (almost the
millenium) and we are experimental aviation enthusiasts, so I'd like to
experiment
with the Lyc.
In automotive performance you can gain power over stock in the same rpm
range by giving the cam more valve lift within the same or similar
duration.
There is, obviously, a limit as to how far you can safely lift a valve
and return
it to its seat within a given duration without running into valve float
or
hammering the valve onto the seat too quickly. To a point, the further
you can
open the valve, the greater the flow into or out of the cylinder. A
good port
job also greatly enhances the flow to and from the cylinder. Thus the
"completeness" of the cylinder charge or scavenge increases as does
efficiencyand power. The "hot cams" are designed to lift the valve a
long way off their seats to give massive flow, which in turn requires a
long duration. This leads to heavy valve overlap (both valves open at
the same time) and a consequently rough idle and greatly increased peak
horsepower rpm. This is fine for drag racers and circle track drivers
where the only rpm limitation is that of their Visa credit limit, but
for us with a prop on the front things are a little
different.
I was just curious as to whether anyone had heard of anyone exploring
this realm. Will I be the first? Probably not...... :-)
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Flaps/Ailerons
Fuselage on order soon
PS. Does anyone know the cam timing specs for an average O-320?
marty wrote:
>
> i am not sure about a 'hot cam ' for these low rpm engines. but maybe there
> is a better grind .
> do you want to increase power and efficiency?
> you can get your cylinders reworked , porting and polishing , suppose to add
> about 5hp per cylinder. get your valves and springs checked out.and fitted.
> balancing of parts --maybe but not sure if it helps these engines , maybe
> someone can answer that.
> get your camshaft gear redrilled , so you change your cam timing to go with
> the cyl work.
> probably a good electronic system to go with your magneto ,
> a fuel injection system......
> i would love to see the dyno results before and after each additional hop up
> to see how much it really effects the engine performance.
> is it worth it ....not sure .....have i tried these ....most of them....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transponder -failure- question ... |
Dennis,
If you're planning on IIMorrow gear, check out their new transponder. They
announced it at SnF. Called the SL70. Matches their other slimline units.
Solid state with altitude readout, plus has altitude hold alert. List is
$1995 but guy in their booth told me $1795, which I'm guessing will be the
street price. None of the avionics vendors I talked to even knew about it
let alone had price or availability.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit (also not finishing very fast)
>
> >
> I was about to buy a KT76C because I like the altitude readout. My local
> avionis shop says it requires a $150 cooling fan! I'm going with the
> IIMorrow GPS because it requires NO cooling whatever, but I'm not so sure
> the KT76C is such a good deal any more.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit (not getting finished very fast)
> Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Transponder -failure- UPDATE .... |
First thanks to all who responded.
Today I stopped by the local avionics shop with the transponder. They opened
it up as I watched and I must say I got a not so good feeling.
The manager pointed out that the tube (?) was aged and drawing too
much current. This was evidenced by the obviously burned **LARGE**
resistor. (He said this is the first tell-tale sign).
Of course the fuse was burned out as well.
He then told me that I was lucky as this unit seemed to have lasted 20
years. I guess many do not.
Then I was told that it would cost me a few hundred dollars (I am guessing
$300-500) to get this all repaired (not necessarily by him). In the end I
would have a 20 year old fixed transponder. Or I could purchase a
used/remanufactured one for say $600-800 and probably get a new one for
$900-1100.
I am going to purchase a KT76C.
They are newer and **HOPEFULLY** better. Will inform all as to how it works
out.
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
Dear Listers or maybe Bob Nuckolls if he's listening.
I need to provide a load analysis of my electrical system in order to get
my aircraft approved for IFR flight in Australia. I wondered if any of the
electrical types could help with a couple of questions....
1. How do you deal with transient power loads. eg My King Nav/Com only
draws 0.9 Amps with the receiver and VOR turned on but pushing the transmit
button sucks up another 4.5 Amperes. The transmit function is obviously
only used a few seconds at a time. Does this mean that I can ignore this
4.5 amps in terms of calculating the total load and the required endurance
on the battery alone? There are also a number of very transient loads eg
the primer solonoid, the electric trim, the flap motor. How are these
included (if at all) in a load justification.
2. For emergency purposes (30 minutes operation on battery alone) what do
you have to include. I assume you would include pitot heat but what about
strobes and landing lights, these latter one would only flick on for the
last ten seconds of flight. If I was worried about power I'd have the
strobes off and take my chances on a mid-air... Is there a convention for
these things.
3. Can you use measured power consumption.... many manufactures seem to be
poor in providing figures. My LASAR electronic ignition for instance has no
documented power consumption figures anywhere in the supplied literature.
Ditto for the little lamps in instruments.
4. What does the field of ones alternator draw in flight. When I measure
this on the ground (engine not running) the Voyager type regulator kicks it
a healthy 6 Amps. Does this drop as the charging voltage comes up? I assume
yes, but to what?
Many thanks to anyone out there with answers to any of the above....
Cheers,
Leo Davies
6A (waiting for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix P-lead hookup |
Brian,
Look in Aircraft Spruce's catalog in the Bendix mag parts section. You will
need the nuts, washers, and the ferrules. You will have to solder the end
of the P-lead onto a washer so it makes a "ball" that contacts the lead
inside the threaded area of the mag. BTW, the parts are expensive for what
they are. Fortunately I had a set with my engine (used). You might want to
ask your local mechanic if he has any laying around.
Bob Japundza
RV-6, canopy fiberglass (yuck!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:32 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Bendix P-lead hookup
Listers,
Being new to the ways of magnetos, I'm not sure how to
connect the
P-lead wire to the S4-20 mags on my newly acquired (used,
but pretty)
engine. Evidently, some kind of threaded nut with the wire
through it
is screwed onto the back of the mag case, and the end of the
wire in
some way makes a connection onto a plate inside. So, is
there a
connector kit that must be purchased, or perhaps some other
way of
hooking it up?
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Storage |
Joe Rex writes:
>
>
> I just thought I would relate a story that might be of interest to many.
--snip--
> I think these engines are tougher than we give them credit for.
I think you were just lucky, Joe. I had a similar experience a few
years ago with a friend's Yamaha motorcycle. It had been stored
for years, at least two of those years outside in Yellowknife, NWT
(60+ north latitude). I borrowed a borescope from work and
inspected the cylinders, and they were damned-near perfect. That
was pure luck, too! I wouldn't count on it for my lawnmower, let
alone my airplane engine.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
RV-6 tail in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | Drum sander attachment for drill press? |
Does anyone know where I can find a drum sander attachment for my drill
press? I know that an orbital drum sander gives a slightly better
finish and utilizes the sanding roll better, but I'd be happy with a
simple drum I can chuck up.
I've found the really simple and cheap kind that are a simple drum on an
arbor, but I'm looking for something that has a bearing on the bottom of
the drum which fits into the hole of the drill press table. This way,
side loads don't put nearly as much pressure on the spindle bearings of
the drill press.
Thanks for any leads - Mitch
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
I had several of these mods performed on my O-360A1A by Everett Hatch. He
began by testing my new engine (from Van's) in stock condition on his dyno
2" stub exhausts -- 179 bhp
Vetterman cross-over exhaust -- 185 bhp
Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust -- 185 bhp
He then flow-improved and flow-matched the cylinders, polished the induction
path, and re-worked the valve guides:
Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust -- 192 bhp
He then removed the stock sump and replaced it with his custom sump and cold
air induction, installed Airflow Performance fuel injection, and
experimented with varying induction tube lengths. He determined that 22" -
27" induction runners provided the highest power gains at 2700 rpm:
Vetterman cross-over exhaust -- 200 bhp
Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust -- 200 bhp
All the above was done without increasing the compression ratio above the
stock 8.5 to 1.
Of interest is that there was no significant difference in power output
between the cross-over exhaust and the 4-pipe exhaust. Changing to fuel
injection does not provide any increase in maximum power output. It does,
however, permit inverted operation, improve efficiency at partial throttle,
and reduce the probability of induction icing.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 installing inlet ramps in the upper cowl.
>
>you can get your cylinders reworked , porting and polishing , suppose to
add
>about 5hp per cylinder. get your valves and springs checked out.and fitted.
>balancing of parts --maybe but not sure if it helps these engines , maybe
>someone can answer that.
>
>i would love to see the dyno results before and after each additional hop
up
>to see how much it really effects the engine performance.
>is it worth it ....not sure .....have i tried these ....most of them....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shannon" <sylph(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Canoe Panel |
>Now, with 220+ hours what would I change? Absolutely nothing.>
OK, Michael, you left out the detail we're all dying to hear: How much for
the canoe panel? I'd personally like to know because I'm planning one
myself.
Thanks,
Michael
Durango, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark delano <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
Starting construction of RV 6 . Any builders in the Denver area wanting to show
off their
project and share a few ideas? I can be reached at 303.971.8260 days or
303.797.1373 after 4 PM
Thanks Mark Delano
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just got tools |
Justin & Don,
We have just bought the tools to get us threw the tail section of our RV6a!
These tools were bought from Avery and the total was $860.00 worth of tools.
Justin & Don
RV6a(Have tools and going to practice)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Signature suggestion |
Back a bunch of years ago when the RV-list first started up, most people
included a line about their RV project and status in their signature. Later
on someone suggested also putting your geographic location on there as well
so people can know who they might contact in their area or when visiting.
I've done this and see some others do too but most don't. I'd like to
suggest we start that up again as it helps (and is fun) to know where people
are, what they're working on, etc.
Anyhow, just a suggestion.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tach Installation |
Bruce
Just a thought. You might like to attach 100pF ceramic capacitor from each
of the P-leads at the switch. Join the other lead of both capacitors
together and connect the sensor wire to this join. The capacitors will
prevent the shorting to ground of the sensor when either mag is grounded.
Bob N. tells me that there is about 300V (pulse) at the mag switch so make
sure the capacitor is up to it. Is should be easy to find ceramic capacitors
at around 600V.
Switch P-lead terminals
o o
| |
Cap 1 0 O Cap 2
\ /
|
|
to electronic tach
Royce Craven
>
>If I remember, there was a problem when electronic tach first came out. If
>the Tach failed, then it shorted out both mags. The cure was to attach it
>to only one.
>
> Why not check with the builder?
>
>Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
>Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 5:17 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Tach Installation
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Bruce Meacham wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I just purchased an RV-3. When I did a mag check, the right works as
>>> expected, but left shows an indicated zero RPMs on the tach. The tach
>>> has a fuse, so I'm assuming it's mag driven electronic. Is it common
>>> practice to setup the tach on only one mag? If so how will I know that
>>> the left is operating within 25 RPMs?
>>>
>>> Bruce Meacham
>>> N3456B
>>>
>>If it's electronic, it probably triggers off a p-lead or plug wire. The
>>fix would be a second sensor or pickup on the other ignition system and
>>a L/R switch for the tach. Standard a/c tachs are mechanical & driven by
>>a flex shaft from the engine similar to a car speedometer drive from the
>>transmission. Don't know if it's common, but your's isn't the first.
>>
>>Before you 'fix' it, try covering the tach on a plane you are familiar
>>with & do several mag checks 'by ear' & decide if you can be comfortable
>>with that.
>>
>>Charlie
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
Jon,
When I modified my Cont. IO-346 by removing the stock Cylinders and
replacing them with TSIO-520 Cylinders, I had Aircraft Specialties inspect
and yellow tag crank, rods, gears, camshaft and ect. They offered me a
special grind on the camshaft which is now TSO'd for certified Continental
engines. They claimed that it would give more power in the 2300- 2500 rpm
range plus better economy in that same cruise range.
I believed them.
In talking with LyCon who built up my 4 TSIO-520 cylinders with the custom
high compression pistons, they questioned doing any custom grind on the
stock cams. They said that they have rarely found any thing better than the
stock grind. So I sent the cam to them and they ran it on their Cam Doctor
and confirmed every claim that Aircraft Specialties had made. It is called
a phase 3 grind and is now available for the Continental
engines. They may have built one for the Lycomings also.
A local mechanic who installed this phase 3 cam in a 210 with a 520 was
really impressed with the increased power and more efficient cruise.
This cam in combination with the higher compression pistons has really made
this engine come alive and I can now cruise 10 miles an hour faster on the
same fuel burn. Of course I had to get a new wood prop because the old one
no longer had enough pitch. Margie Warnke built an Airclaw for me.
Brad Bundy Flying Chard Built RV6 N48AC
bundyb(at)infowest.com
http://www.infowest.com/personal/b/bundyb/
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 9:30 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming camshafts
>
>
>>
>>I agree. I was not looking for a huge lift/duration "Burgerville
>>Cruiser" cam for my Lycoming, but was merely curious as to just how mild
>>the stock
>>Lyc cams are. If they are designed like everything else on these
>>things, I'm
>>guessing they are quite mild. These engines seem to be designed long on
>>run-forever-tractor-reliability (not necessarily a bad thing) and short
>>on modern technology in most respects. But this is the 90's (almost the
>>millenium) and we are experimental aviation enthusiasts, so I'd like to
>>experiment
>>with the Lyc.
>>
>>In automotive performance you can gain power over stock in the same rpm
>>range by giving the cam more valve lift within the same or similar
>>duration.
>>There is, obviously, a limit as to how far you can safely lift a valve
>>and return
>>it to its seat within a given duration without running into valve float
>>or
>>hammering the valve onto the seat too quickly. To a point, the further
>>you can
>>open the valve, the greater the flow into or out of the cylinder. A
>>good port
>>job also greatly enhances the flow to and from the cylinder. Thus the
>>"completeness" of the cylinder charge or scavenge increases as does
>>efficiencyand power. The "hot cams" are designed to lift the valve a
>>long way off their seats to give massive flow, which in turn requires a
>>long duration. This leads to heavy valve overlap (both valves open at
>>the same time) and a consequently rough idle and greatly increased peak
>>horsepower rpm. This is fine for drag racers and circle track drivers
>>where the only rpm limitation is that of their Visa credit limit, but
>>for us with a prop on the front things are a little
>>different.
>>
>>I was just curious as to whether anyone had heard of anyone exploring
>>this realm. Will I be the first? Probably not...... :-)
>>
>>Jon Elford
>>RV6 #25201
>>Flaps/Ailerons
>>Fuselage on order soon
>>
>>PS. Does anyone know the cam timing specs for an average O-320?
>>
>>
>>marty wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> i am not sure about a 'hot cam ' for these low rpm engines. but maybe
>there
>>> is a better grind .
>>> do you want to increase power and efficiency?
>>> you can get your cylinders reworked , porting and polishing , suppose to
>add
>>> about 5hp per cylinder. get your valves and springs checked out.and
>fitted.
>>> balancing of parts --maybe but not sure if it helps these engines ,
maybe
>>> someone can answer that.
>>> get your camshaft gear redrilled , so you change your cam timing to go
>with
>>> the cyl work.
>>> probably a good electronic system to go with your magneto ,
>>> a fuel injection system......
>>> i would love to see the dyno results before and after each additional
hop
>up
>>> to see how much it really effects the engine performance.
>>> is it worth it ....not sure .....have i tried these ....most of them....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)soundproofing.org (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Floor mat - Super Soundproofing Materials |
I'm reluctant to help much anymore, about giving advice on sources of
interesting, cheap, used parts, tools, etc, being accused of
spamming, (and worse), but here goes again, maybe something that we
all can use:
Impossible to find Floor Mat: a 1/8" "Loaded Vinyl" with a 1/4"
bonded foam vibration isolator to stop noise cold from coming up
through the floor boards! See the web site at
http://www,soundproofing.org/flooring.htm
Get the free online booklet "How To Soundproof Light Aircraft" at
www.soundproofing.org/soundprf.html or send email for a hard copy by
post! (Or get it free from Aircraft Spruce).
NOW, let's see how much negative email is generated from my last post
about this type of thing about a year ago from those Doctors, Lawyers
and other "Super Builders" who only build with "chrome plated sterling
NEW' FAA APPROVED parts!
Soundproofing problems? See the website!
Bill Nash RV Builder RV-6A #22982
Welp, here's my signature: Used and abused, I'll take it if it will work in my
RV!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Load analysis |
Leo Davies wrote:
>
>
>
> Dear Listers or maybe Bob Nuckolls if he's listening.
>
> I need to provide a load analysis of my electrical system in order to get
> my aircraft approved for IFR flight in Australia. I wondered if any of the
> electrical types could help with a couple of questions....
>
> 1. How do you deal with transient power loads. eg My King Nav/Com only
> draws 0.9 Amps with the receiver and VOR turned on but pushing the transmit
> button sucks up another 4.5 Amperes. The transmit function is obviously
> only used a few seconds at a time. Does this mean that I can ignore this
> 4.5 amps in terms of calculating the total load and the required endurance
> on the battery alone? There are also a number of very transient loads eg
> the primer solonoid, the electric trim, the flap motor. How are these
> included (if at all) in a load justification.
>
> 2. For emergency purposes (30 minutes operation on battery alone) what do
> you have to include. I assume you would include pitot heat but what about
> strobes and landing lights, these latter one would only flick on for the
> last ten seconds of flight. If I was worried about power I'd have the
> strobes off and take my chances on a mid-air... Is there a convention for
> these things.
>
> 3. Can you use measured power consumption.... many manufactures seem to be
> poor in providing figures. My LASAR electronic ignition for instance has no
> documented power consumption figures anywhere in the supplied literature.
> Ditto for the little lamps in instruments.
>
> 4. What does the field of ones alternator draw in flight. When I measure
> this on the ground (engine not running) the Voyager type regulator kicks it
> a healthy 6 Amps. Does this drop as the charging voltage comes up? I assume
> yes, but to what?
>
> Many thanks to anyone out there with answers to any of the above....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Leo Davies
> 6A (waiting for paint)
>
Hi Leo
Here in Canada I make my electrical load analysis with the items listed
in three columns; Intermittent, Continuous, and Emergency load.
The radio transmit load is shown in the intermittent column, reciever
load under continuous and emergency items under the Emergency column.
Electric Flaps or Trim would be an intermittent load.
Continuous load should not be more than 80 percent of alternator
capacity. (Total of intermittent plus continuous loads probably will
exceed alternator capacity.)
My understanding is that Emergency load would not include pitot heat
unless you are certified for icing conditions, mine includes all
unswitchable instruments fuel gauges etc, battery contactor, instrument
lights, one nav and one com radio, transponder and encoder, nav lights
but not anti-collision lights.
Alternator field load is not shown on my load analsys and not listed in
my older Cessna service manual.
Loads for many common items are listed in Cessna and Piper service
manuals.
Hope that helps.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Skinning Fusealage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
In a message dated 4/21/99 12:02:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
martinheisler(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< Does anyone know of or have any experience with any after-market "hot
>> >rod" camshafts for the O-320 and O-360 Lycomings? Does such a thing
>> >exist? If not, why not? Archives show nothing, nor do any of my
>> >Internet searches. Just curious and planning ahead (way ahead, I'm
>> >afraid). Just the die-hard gearhead in me. :-) >>
I don't know of any after-market cam manufacturers for aircraft. You can
however, have your cam reground with a "hotter" profile, and add fuel
injection from after-market suppliers, as well as electronic ignition. I too
am an undeniable, unrepentant gearhead, so I can relate to your desires.
Slow turning engines do not benefit from cam timing changes as much as faster
turning engines do, but there is still a gain to be realized. Boosting the
compression is another way to gain HP, but again, I don't think TRW makes
11:1 pistons for a Lycont engine.
And you though hopping up a Detroit engine was expensive...
Regards, Merle (You know - the Chevy...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
Hi listers,
Does anyone know if Bose has an e-mail address or fax number. I have checked
the latest Yellapages, and the only listing is an 800 phone number. Gets a
bit expensive calling from Oz on the phone. Need to get one headset
serviced, and they have to be returned to the factory, so I've been told.
They won't give out service info or circuit diagrams. One earpiece is U/S.
Thanks
in advance.
Cheers,
Ken Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: RTV in flaps and ailerons |
Not according to Van when I asked him about four years ago.
Peter
>
> Do you need to put the dabs of RTV in the flaps and ailerons like are used
> in the rudder and elevator?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Ken,
Contact Curtis Jacobites, Customer Service Technician, Noise Reduction
Technology Group at: curtis_jacobites(at)bose.com.
He couldn't be more helpful or customer friendly. Tell him I sent you, &
I'm still waiting for my demo set!
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Fuselage skins in upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | W822 access covers |
Message text written by Kevin Horton
>I'm working on the W-822 access covers on the bottom of the
RV-8 wing. Will they sit down nice and flat as is, or should I roll
the edges slightly?<
I rolled mine, couldn't think of a reason not to.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
fuselage skins in upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by George
>The RV-8 builders manual says to insert a 1 - 7/16" thick particle board
false spar to maintain the correct dimension between the F-804 halves.
I can find only 3/4" particle board, but can buy 23/32" thick plywood, two
thicknesses of which should make 1 - 7/16"
Can anyone think of a reason that won't work?<
The only requirement is that the spacer be the same thickness as YOUR spar
or just slightly thicker. I used a cople pieces of particle board I had
hanging around but that wasn't quit enough. I added 1/16" balsa between
the two particle boards. I did discover that when I bolted the section
together that the wood compressed a bit even though I didn't tighten the
bolts much. I measured about a hundred times and then added a .016
aluminum shim to bring the thickness to .040" over my spar thickness,
didn't want to be caught short. You can always add a shim if needed but I
wouldn't want ot subtract material to make the spar fit.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Fuselage skins in upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
Jon Elford wrote:
>
> I agree. I was not looking for a huge lift/duration "Burgerville
> Cruiser" cam for my Lycoming, but was merely curious as to just how mild
> the stock
> Lyc cams are. If they are designed like everything else on these
> things, I'm
> guessing they are quite mild.
> millenium) and we are experimental aviation enthusiasts, so I'd like to
> experiment
> with the Lyc.
>
Jon, FWIW, a company called ASI (Air Support Internation) builds modified cams
for
Lycomings. I believe they have three different profile designs. I have never used
one of their products, so I can't comment on the success of their designs. I
understand that Aircraft Specialities in Tulsa works with ASI and does the QA on
the cams. Of course, they also provide stock after market cams.
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix P-lead hookup |
You can also leave it connected and remove cover plate. Clip your lead on
the shorting spring. Of course then the mag switch would have to be on.
Remember that the mag is HOT when ever you do the timing. The engine will
fire even with a plug or two out. I have seen it happen to a very
experienced mechanic. Fortunately, all it did was to bring home the point
that the mag is hot.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bendix P-lead hookup
>
>Brian
> Yes there is a connector for the p leads.
>Consists ot a nut, phenolic barrel, gromet .
>I believe ACS has them. You need a spare to
>be able to use a timing device>
>Stew CO RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Control/Steel |
I'm in the process of painting many of the steel weldments found in the
interior of the -4 fuselage. The process I've identified is as follows:
1. Glass bead blast
2. Iron phosphate conversion coating to reduce corrosion and improve paint
adhesion. This is a one step dip or spray process in an aqueous solution
followed by a clear water rinse. This process will allow interior portions of
weldment to see the conversion coating. These surfaces won't be painted, but
should have fairly good corrosion resistance.
3. Primer with epoxy primer. I use Deft water soluble epoxy primers, but
there are many choices available.
4. Top coat with TBD paint
Please feel free to contact me off-line if you would like more information.
Dean Pichon
RV-4 Fuselage right side up
JNice51355(at)aol.com on 04/21/99 06:32:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Corrosion Control/Steel
Just a quick question about corrosion control on our "steel" parts, namely the
elevator horns and similar parts. What do most of you do to prepare the
"inside" of the tubular portion on the horn? I am particularly interested in
knowing the best and easiest way to treat that portion of the parts that is
not easily accessed. Would it be "overkill" to have these parts blasted with
glass beads?
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Control/Steel |
Jim,
Here in Oz we have a product called "Fishoilene". It is apparently
derived from fish oil and is used for rust prevention in cars. I
thoroughly slosh it around in my tubes. It penetrates extremely
well, and leaves a pliable slightly sticky film behind. It's more
substantial and viscous than the WD40 style of penetrant and lasts
for years if undisturbed.
You must have something similar available in the US.
Peter
>
> Just a quick question about corrosion control on our "steel" parts, namely
> the elevator horns and similar parts. What do most of you do to prepare
> the "inside" of the tubular portion on the horn? I am particularly
> interested in knowing the best and easiest way to treat that portion of
> the parts that is not easily accessed. Would it be "overkill" to have
> these parts blasted with glass beads? Jim Nice RV6A WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Grant" <barcodenow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | In Boston this weekend... |
Sorry if his is the 2nd message... webmail wasn't working right.
I'm in the Boston, MA (South Shore) area this weekend... Wondering if
I could get one of those $50,000 free rides (have to account for
inflation). Naturally, I'll pay for Gas! I'm here now through
Tuesday.
Email off list to barcodenow(at)hotmail.com, Phone 318.469.2934 (Cell)
or leave message at 800.489.1149 (office)
Thanks in advance!
Tom
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doyon, Richard" <Richard.Doyon(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
Listers,
I'm planning the empennage jig, and I got a little problem. I realized
last night that I'll only have about 7 ft of height maximum for the jig, since
my garage door needs about 1 foot off the ceiling space when it's open. Consequently,
it'll have to be a free standing one, and after much talking with my
'retired construction dad', he showed me how to build one that would serve me
well. But, what's the highest piece in height from the plane surface of the cross
member am I gonna put in there? 3 Ft? 4 Ft? I need this measurement so I can
adjust the height of that cross member.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
-6A, empennage on order, trying to build jig....
At home: themop(at)gte.net
Everett, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
In my large stack of paper and books I can't determine if an impulse
coupling magneto is
the same as a breaker magneto. I have an impulse coupling magneto and
need to know if
it needs the jumper wire on the right magneto terminal on the switch.
Thanks for the help.
Wayne RV-4 panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA44)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Portable wing transports |
That's exactly what I just did.. use a 2x6 base and the rest 2x4 w/ carpet 4
in. strips
for the wing contact area. At Home Depot I spent $45. w/ castors.
Doug Gardner
-8A Fuselage
Palm Harbor Fl
-----Original Message-----
From: toverton [mailto:toverton(at)zapcom.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Portable wing transports
Chris
Look on page 461 of the Aircraft Spruce Catalog and you can see how easy it
would be to build your own from the picture.
A few castors, some 2x4's a little plywood and some heavy strapping or
pieces of conveyor belt and you have it.
They sell theirs for $159. with out castors. I think you could
build the whole thing for $50. Hope this helps.
Tom Overton
Top Gun, Calif.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming camshafts |
>Boosting the
>compression is another way to gain HP, but again, I don't think TRW makes
>11:1 pistons for a Lycont engine.
Lycon has forged pistons for Lycoming engines that will give you
compression ratios from 8:1 up to 12:1 in half steps, e.g. 8:1, 8.5:1, 9:1,
9.5:1, etc. I told them I wanted improved performance without sacrificing
longevity and they recommended 10:1 pistons. The pistons and the head flow
enhancement certainly made a big difference to the performance of my
O-320-D2J engine.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
Rich,
I don't have the drawings in front of me, but I can give you a good estimate:
I had my horizontal jig piece at 36" above the floor and the highest piece of my
HS or VS wasn't any taller than I was. So, I'm six foot tall minus the three
foot above floor...
I would say that 36" is a good estimate for the size of the empennage HS and VS
in the jig. Seven foot vertically is plenty of room for the empennage jig.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a
Listers,
I'm planning the empennage jig, and I got a little problem. I realized
last night that I'll only have about 7 ft of height maximum for the jig, since
my garage door needs about 1 foot off the ceiling space when it's open. Consequently,
it'll have to be a free standing one, and after much talking with my
'retired construction dad', he showed me how to build one that would serve me
well. But, what's the highest piece in height from the plane surface of the cross
member am I gonna put in there? 3 Ft? 4 Ft? I need this measurement so I can
adjust the height of that cross member.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
-6A, empennage on order, trying to build jig....
At home: themop(at)gte.net
Everett, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> Listers,
> what's the
> highest piece in height from the plane surface of the cross member am
> I gonna put in there? 3 Ft? 4 Ft? I need this measurement so I can
> adjust the height of that cross member.
FWIW, I say make the cross member as high as your garage door will
allow, hoping I understand your question correctly.
One might look at the stab in the jig and say that 3 feet is enough,
but when you consider the cross piece being an obstacle when you are
putting the skins on and taking them off, when you are getting your
head right on top of it, leaning over to buck or squeeze a rivet. You
want the area as open as possible.
Also have you looked at the diagonal? I had the same problem - if you
square the jig to one wall of the other there's not enough room, but if
you place it on the diagonal, tuck one end into a corner leaving about
12 inches to deal with the extra fixtures for tip ribs and such, then
the opposite upright might fit in behind the door in its open position.
You don't need to be able to walk around both ends of the jig.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Wings - ready to close leading edges.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 False spar |
>The RV-8 builders manual says to insert a 1 - 7/16" thick particle
>board
>false spar to maintain the correct dimension between the F-804 halves.
>
>I can find only 3/4" particle board, but can buy 23/32" thick plywood,
>two
>thicknesses of which should make 1 - 7/16"
>
>Can anyone think of a reason that won't work?
>
>What did the rest of you do?
>
>George
>Fuselage on jig.
>
>
Partical board is called out because it is more environmentally stable
than plywood, plain pine boards etc. If you do not have a shop situation
that would have much of a fluctuation in humidity then the plywood would
be fine.
If a builder chose to use some other material (aluminum blocks, etc) that
would be fine also as long as it accomplishes the purpose
intended...Holdes the front and aft side of the F-804 at very close to
1 7/16 inches.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newby question |
>Dear list,
>I'm making strong decision towards ordering a RV-4. Probably can get
>engine
>which was intended for a RV-3. Question is: does the -3 engine mount
>also
>fit the -4? what are the differences (size, thrustline, CG)?
>
>loef
>
-
No, the RV-3 mount wouldn't fit an RV-4 (different sized fuselages,
different landing gear placements, etc.).
If it a standard lycoming engine, you can choose the proper mount to fit
it when you buy the kit.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
>
>In my large stack of paper and books I can't determine if an impulse
>coupling magneto is
>the same as a breaker magneto.
No, they are not the same. The latter is called a retard breaker magneto
or "shower of sparks" because it has a separate set of breaker points that
change the timing of the mag from normal running (around 25 degrees BTDC)
to right near TDC when the key is turned to the start position. It also
uses the electrical system to energize a vibrator so that the mag generates
a continuous spark while the retard breaker is open (hence the name "shower
of sparks").
>I have an impulse coupling magneto and need to know if
>it needs the jumper wire on the right magneto terminal on the switch.
Well, maybe. The impulse coupling retards the timing mechanically. You
just need your switch to short that mag's P-lead when you don't want that
mag to generate any spark. If your mag keyswitch is the type that has a
start position to energize the starter contactor and only your left mag has
an impulse coupling, you need to wire the switch so that the right mag
p-lead is grounded when you turn the key to the start position. I belive
this is the jumper you are referring to. If you have impulse couplings on
both mags then you want both mags energized, i.e. both p-leads ungrounded,
when starting.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
In a message dated 4/22/99, 2:13:36 PM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I can't determine if an impulse
<< coupling magneto is the same
<< as a breaker magneto
Both the Bendix and Slick magnetos are breaker types. The impulse coulping is
used to retard the timing on the left mag (from 25 to 0 degrees) for
starting. On the Bendix type starter switch the right mag is "turned-off"
during starting to avoid kick-back.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Has anyone considered a left hand control stick similar to the Cirrus?
Anyone interested in a design?
/
--
Peter Laurence
Trying to decide RV6 or RV6A
Miami Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/21/99 23:30:59, mdelano(at)mho.net writes:
Starting construction of RV 6 . Any builders in the Denver area wanting to
show
off their
project and share a few ideas? I can be reached at 303.971.8260 days or
303.797.1373 after 4 PM
>>
Yo Mark. Contact Tom Redfield and get a roster of all builders in the area.
He is at 303-922-6597. tomredfield(at)compuserve.com. You also need to join
(my biased opinion) the Rocky Mountain RVators. Next meeting in JUne at the
EAA regional Fly in at Longmont.
Also call me any time. Hangared at FTG and open for inspection and
discussions with free coffee . 303-756-6543
D Walsh RV-6A the green machine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 False spar |
>The only requirement is that the spacer be the same thickness as YOUR
>spar
>or just slightly thicker. I used a cople pieces of particle board I
>had
>hanging around but that wasn't quit enough. I added 1/16" balsa
>between
>the two particle boards. I did discover that when I bolted the
>section
>together that the wood compressed a bit even though I didn't tighten
>the
>bolts much. I measured about a hundred times and then added a .016
>aluminum shim to bring the thickness to .040" over my spar thickness,
>didn't want to be caught short. You can always add a shim if needed
>but I
>wouldn't want ot subtract material to make the spar fit.
-
Adding an additional .010 in. or maybe .015 in. would be exceptable to
make sure wings install easily (though not necessary as long as the
spacer that was used is the correct size and did not change in dimension
over time).
040. inch is quite a lot of clearance on a highly loaded structural joint
like this. As stiff and solid as the whole center section is after
skinning the fuselage, it may be difficult to get the spar and center
section to mate tightly without over torquing the bolts. Also... shims
on this type of a structural joint in the airplane would not be
exceptable. RV-8(A) builders should not put shims in with their wing
spars without first consulting with engineering at Van's Aircraft.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes |
Really glad to hear the incoming missed you, Bob.
And some folks say flying experimentals is dangerous, sounds like not
half as dangerous as building one. Whew!
do not archieve
Ed Anderson
RV-6A Vienna, VA
Bobby Hargrave wrote:
>
>
> Heads up people using DeWalt rechargeable drills. I just got REALLY LUCKY!
>
> Smelled something burning while attaching
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
>
>In my large stack of paper and books I can't determine if an impulse
>coupling magneto is
>the same as a breaker magneto. I have an impulse coupling magneto and
>need to know if
>it needs the jumper wire on the right magneto terminal on the switch.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>Wayne RV-4 panel.
>
>
If you only have a single impulse mag. (most common) then you do need the
grounding jumper on the ign. switch. This causes the
un-retarded right mag to be disabled while cranking for engine start.
If your engine has two impulse coupling mags then the jumper is not
installed because both mags have retarded timing during start.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Tachometer Cable Question |
Hello, Has anyone building an RV-4 installed a mechanical tachometer (sold
in Van's Catalog) and if so what size cable and other parts did you need to
order for the installation?
RV-4 - Engine Hung. Installing Systems. Paint Next!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
650-506-2740
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Hello,
This will come up again when you do the control rods on the wings. I
poured variprime down the tubes, plugged the ends, rock 'n rolled, then
drained the excess. For the elevevator horns you might consider a spray
can of NAPA 7026. OR......you can order the new powder coated versions
from VAN!
Check the archives for endless discussion on primer/paint.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
At 06:09 PM 4/21/99 , you wrote:
>
>A quick question in case my first message was lost to the server problem.
>What is a good method for preparing the "inside" portion on the elevator
>horns for priming??
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
"Doyon, Richard" wrote:
> But, what's the highest piece in height from the plane surface of the cross member
> am I gonna put in there? 3 Ft? 4 Ft? I need this measurement so I can adjust
the
> height of that cross member.
Remember you'll need to work above the piece in the jig... IIRC, there's
some rivet holes in the LE. There's certainly some rivets attaching the
nose ribs to the front spars. Maybe you'll need a foot of space between
the LE and the ceiling?
FWIW, the two items to be built in the jig are the HS & VS. In both
cases, the rear spar is about an inch above the cross member.
So look at the plans for the fore-aft length of the HS and VS, and add
13 inches to the larger of the two.
Also, don't make the cross-member too high (4ft would be too high unless
you're as tall as Michael Jordan). I set mine at the same height as my
workbench... that turned out to be good, since I could conveniently rest
items across the gap.
You can find my building experiences, including photos, at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> -- follow the link to the HS
& rudder.
Frank.
RV-6 #24692, Skinning fuselage, Marton, New Zealand.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
How high can a person go on piston compression (8.1,9.1, etc.) and still be
able to burn autogas?
Wayne Feggestad
RV-6a tail almost done.
Juda, Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drum sander attachment for drill press? |
I don't think that the side loads are very high with a sander if you change
the abrasive drums when they become worn. It is light intermittent use.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drum sander attachment for drill press?
>
>
>Does anyone know where I can find a drum sander attachment for my drill
>press? I know that an orbital drum sander gives a slightly better
>finish and utilizes the sanding roll better, but I'd be happy with a
>simple drum I can chuck up.
>
>I've found the really simple and cheap kind that are a simple drum on an
>arbor, but I'm looking for something that has a bearing on the bottom of
>the drum which fits into the hole of the drill press table. This way,
>side loads don't put nearly as much pressure on the spindle bearings of
>the drill press.
>
>Thanks for any leads - Mitch
>
>Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
>San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
>President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
>http://www.skybound.com/BARV
>http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>How high can a person go on piston compression (8.1,9.1, etc.) and still be
>able to burn autogas?
The 150 hp O-320s can burn mogas. The 160hp 0-320s can't (at least not in
all flight regimes). As I recall the 150 hp engines have about 8.1:1 and
the 160hp engines are about 8.6:1. I believe combustion chamber shape,
RPM, ignition timing, and compression all have an effect on the grade of
fuel needed.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
All you 8 builders,what length did you make between the uprights for
the wing jig for regular 8 kits.
Chris RV8 88801
Festus,MO
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig length |
The distance BETWEEN the posts should be about 2-3" longer than the distance
from the root rib to the tip rib. I made mine a little less than that and I
had a hard time drilling the skins to the tip rib.
If you don't have the wing kit yet, I can measure the exact distance when I
get home.
Sylvain Duford
RV-8, Closing the wings.
Bellevue, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Santschi <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing jig length
>
> All you 8 builders,what length did you make between the uprights for
> the wing jig for regular 8 kits.
>
> Chris RV8 88801
> Festus,MO
>
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
Just rec'd Van's new capacitance fuel senders. Has anyone installed
them yet and determined how to attach the wire from the plates to the
BNC connector?? Plan doesn't offer any suggestions??
Jerry "elecronically challenged" Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minibuck Panel |
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minibuck Panel
>So where is a picture of your panel?
We have been doing too much flying to get a web page going. We are getting
our scanner hooked up to the laptop (the ancient desktop won't accept it). I
would scan it to an accessable site if I knew one.......(if we can get it to
work).
Meantime, the pictures are right here.
The cost of my minibuck panel? No idea. I have never added up what the
airplane cost to build. If I had that information lying around and Kelli
found it...... Actually, I have just never taken the time.
I made a list of what I wanted in the panel and found a place to put
everything, arranged so it would make sense (to me) while flying. Is it
everything you could have in a panel? No. Is it everything I wanted? Yes.
Now that I have flown the panel, would I take anything out or put something
else in? No. Move anything around? No.
The biggest buck item is an RMI uEncoder (the kit), top center. Below that,
an electric T&B. Top left center: ASI (where it belongs). Top right: VSI.
Lower right: Altimeter. (Why is my VSI on top where the altimeter is
'supposed' to be? In the mountains, I am not as concerned what altitiude I
am flying as I am whether I am going up or down; sometimes hard to tell with
no flat horizon or in an up/down air movement.) Lower left: tach. All of the
above is on a suspended panel, and are 3 1/8 inch. GPS mounted below the
suspended panel. All other instruments are 2 1/4 inch. Left 'margin' (next
to the suspended panel), top to bottom: warning lights (canopy, fuel pump);
oil temp; oil pressure; EGT/CHT (not JPI). Far left: manifold pressure;
master switch; air inlet eyeball. Right 'margin': volts (with a watch/timer
stuck to the bottom face of the gauge); G-meter; mag/starter switch. Far
right: compass; air outlet eyeball; ELT panel indicator, taxi/landing light
indicator lights.
I have a console-mounted trim/throttle/mixture and fuel pump switch on the
left console. Right console is the breaker switch panel (sorry, Bob),
switches forward on. Center between-the-legs panel, tilted up so you can see
everything, top to bottom: map box; ICOM com radio; intercom/ transponder;
Fuel left/ fuel pressure/ fuel right; Radio master breaker switch/ radio
breakers.
Stick control: Infinity. Switched controls: taxi light/landing light; radio
channel changer; radio frequency flip-flop; TPX push to ident; machine gun
trigg.......I mean radio PTT.
All instruments are analog except the uEncoder and the (not JPI) EGT/CHT.
Oh, and the Timex Ironman watch.
All panels are painted in several shades of dark metal-flake grey. OOOOoooooo!
A picture is worth a thousand words...................
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
I LIKE my panel layout................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Signature suggestion |
> Back a bunch of years ago when the RV-list first started up, most people
> included a line about their RV project and status in their signature.
Later
> on someone suggested also putting your geographic location on there as
well
> so people can know who they might contact in their area or when visiting.
> I've done this and see some others do too but most don't. I'd like to
> suggest we start that up again as it helps (and is fun) to know where
people
> are, what they're working on, etc.
>
> Anyhow, just a suggestion.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
> Portland, OR
Good idea, Randy. I would suggest that we misspell the words in our
signature which mislead later archive searches. Many times I have looked
for stuff in the archives, and half or more of the hits are because of
components listed in the signature.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A (about to start winngtips and auutopilot serrvo mount)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig length |
>
>All you 8 builders,what length did you make between the uprights for
>the wing jig for regular 8 kits.
>Chris RV8 88801
Chris,
I just checked my jig and I've got 110 inches between the inside
edges of the angle that holds the spar. That is the absolute minimum
that you can get away with. I've only got a about 1/8 inch clearance
between one angle and the outer wing skin. The outer wing skin sticks
out past the edge of the spar - don't forget that when putting your
wing in the jig or you will get to do it all over again :-( I've got
about 1/2 inch clearance on the inboard end.
If you use one inch wide angle to hold the spars, you would need a
minimum of 112 inches between the inside edges of the post, more
distance if you use wider angle.
Have fun,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Thursday, April 22, 1999 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine
>
>>
>>How high can a person go on piston compression (8.1,9.1, etc.) and still
be
>>able to burn autogas?
>
>The 150 hp O-320s can burn mogas. The 160hp 0-320s can't (at least not in
>all flight regimes). As I recall the 150 hp engines have about 8.1:1 and
>the 160hp engines are about 8.6:1. I believe combustion chamber shape,
>RPM, ignition timing, and compression all have an effect on the grade of
>fuel needed.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
My Skyhawk has the Peterson mogas STC. It is a 150 HP O320E2D with 7.0:1
compression ratio. The 160 HP engine does not qualify for the autogas STC.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> >How high can a person go on piston compression (8.1,9.1, etc.) and still be
> >able to burn autogas?
>
> The 150 hp O-320s can burn mogas. The 160hp 0-320s can't (at least not in
> all flight regimes). As I recall the 150 hp engines have about 8.1:1 and
> the 160hp engines are about 8.6:1. I believe combustion chamber shape,
> RPM, ignition timing, and compression all have an effect on the grade of
> fuel needed.
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
7:1 compression on the 150 HP 0320.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Listers,
I am drilling my firewall & associated angles & weldements. Should I drill
the 4 holes for the engine mount now or wait until I am installing the
mount. Also, what is the correct drill size for a AN6 bolt, the bolts that
attach the engine mount to the fuselage. Thanks......Mark
Mark Steffensen
Dallas, TX 75013
Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
8A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Microair 760 Radio |
During Sun-N-Fun the Microair 760 was heavly promoted. Seemed to have several
features that were attractive. Price $725. at SNF, built in intercom, small,
light
and fits into 2.25 inch hole (of which I have an extra for reasons not to be
revealed).
Could not get a handle on output power from written material.
Anyone with experience with this product who is willing to share? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig length |
Chris, my uprights are 117" apart. If memory serves, this allows for two
2"x2" angle supports at either end with about 1/4" clearence at ech end.
Haven't put the wing in it yet, though, so we'll see. Andy Johnson, Boca
Raton, FL, one flap completed, one half-way, and ailerons partial.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV's Sarasota-Bradenton Area |
Gary-There are several projects in the area with a good concentration in
Venice which is +- 15 miles south of Sarasota. Call me at 485-6144 when you
get into town
and I will give you some guidance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Mark, you'll have to drill the holes to use for mounting the firewall to
the jig.
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved) Youngstown, OH
"The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Listers,
>
>I am drilling my firewall & associated angles & weldements. Should I drill
>the 4 holes for the engine mount now or wait until I am installing the
>mount. Also, what is the correct drill size for a AN6 bolt, the bolts that
>attach the engine mount to the fuselage. Thanks......Mark
>
>
>Mark Steffensen
>Dallas, TX 75013
>Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
>8A Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone interested may want to call up Petersen at 308-832-2050. There are many
engines that can be run on auto fuel. Auto fuel commonly ranges from 87 to 93
octane. The lower compression engines can use the 87 octane. This would include
many if not all of the the 150 hp O-320's. Other engines are listed as
still being able to use auto fuel, but requiring at least 91 octane. These include
O-320-B series and D series. Also included in the 91 octane minimum are
the O-360-A,C,F&G engines.
It is not a requirement for experimental aircraft to have a STC to use auto fuel.
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Free Portable wing transports (San Luis Obispo) |
I have the wing storage stands with rollers that I built to store my wings,
roll into the back of the Nissan Pickup, and now are just taking up space in
the hanger. They were so simple to build, and used surplus wheels, they are
free for the asking, and picking up. Store both wings almost vertically,
back to back, tops out. Include straps to hold them down. Located at the
San Luis Obispo Calif. airport
Bruce Patton
bpattonsoa(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
Mark,
On my RV-4 I drilled the holes undersize. I will open them up when I match
them to the engine mount. You don't need a 3/8 dia. hole to attach it to the
jig.
Ted
RV-4 waiting for the finishing kit.
Mark Steffensen wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I am drilling my firewall & associated angles & weldements. Should I drill
> the 4 holes for the engine mount now or wait until I am installing the
> mount. Also, what is the correct drill size for a AN6 bolt, the bolts that
> attach the engine mount to the fuselage. Thanks......Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> Dallas, TX 75013
> Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
> 8A Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
> When you see a jet fighter with its afterburner on, or when you see a
> fighter release a rocket, they both show in their exhause a series of
> pronounced light areas, or segments which are very much brighter and more
> intense than the spaces between them. It appears that some sort of pulsing
> or repetitive areas of greater and then lesser engine intensity are
> occurring. What causes this?
These are not pulses or fluctuations in the amount of thrust being produced
by the engine/motor. These areas of higher light intensity are areas of
higher pressure than the air around it. Basically, the higher the pressure
and temperature, the brighter the light. . . and in return we see these
"shock diamonds," as they are commonly called.
The reason this air is at higher pressures/temps is that it is exiting the
nozzle at a supersonic speed. The air that the exhaust, or "plume," is
entering is at a lower pressure and temperature, and in return gives you a
different color flame than the higher pressure/temp plume. These shock
diamonds are the result of the compression of this lower pressure/temp air
and the shock waves are the adjusting of this pressure and is unstable as
the plume develops. In all realities, the lower and higher pressure air
masses are trying to find a stability point where the pressures equalize.
When/if this happens, the plume usually reaches a stable point and becomes
subsonic. . . and the shock diamonds will dissipate. This is why you
sometimes see these shock wave diamonds and they appear to move throughout
the plume, they are trying to find this stable point where the air pressure
equalize and become subsonic.
There are several situations where you will not see these shock diamonds.
One is in a vacuum, simply because there is no air. The other rarely
happens, and is when the outside air pressure is the exact same pressure as
the air existing the nozzle. There are times when these shock diamonds are
visible in the engine plume even when the plume or exhaust itself is not.
These engines burn liquid propellants and are cleaner burning than most
engines/motors. Liquid engines burn cleaner than solid motors, and some
liquid engines burn much cleaner than others and produce basically no
visible plume, i.e. liquid oxygen (LOx) and liquid hydrogen (LH2) vs. LOx
and Kerosene liquid propellant engines. An example is the space shuttle's
main 3 engines (not the solid rocket booster, or SRB's). If you look, at
startup you can usually see a shock diamond that moves slightly and then
dissipates, then the plume is barely visible (usually you can still slightly
see it because the camera has a filter, etc.
Well, bored you enough I suppose. I would strap an Atlas vernier engine on
the RV-3 to increase the STOL. . . but I'm afraid I would be over gross and
pull to many G's! :-)
Blue skies!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Socorro, NM
505-835-3644
Rob Reece,
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility Manager
& Scorpius Launch Coordinator
Microcosm/Volt
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
(505) 835-5716 voice
(505) 835-5299 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
In a message dated 4/22/99 11:18:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
wayneb(at)oakweb.com writes:
<< I have an impulse coupling magneto and
need to know if
it needs the jumper wire on the right magneto terminal on the switch. >>
The impulse coupled mag is the left one. Therefore the R terminal on the key
switch needs to have the strap to the adjacent GND terminal in order to
disable the right (non-impulse coupled mag) during cranking. Those not using
the "standard" a/c key switch just leave the right mag off until the engine
starts on the left mag.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 Radio |
try their website at...
www.microair.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
> The impulse coupling retards the timing mechanically. You
> just need your switch to short that mag's P-lead when you don't want that
> mag to generate any spark. If your mag keyswitch is the type that has a
> start position to energize the starter contactor and only your left mag has
> an impulse coupling, you need to wire the switch so that the right mag
> p-lead is grounded when you turn the key to the start position. I belive
> this is the jumper you are referring to. If you have impulse couplings on
> both mags then you want both mags energized, i.e. both p-leads ungrounded,
> when starting.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd
Dumb question: If the right mag lacks an impulse coupling, is it capable of
firing at engine cranking speeds? I have this setup, and I don't think I
have the jumper installed on my ACS switch (I'll have to look to be sure)-
and (so far) no problems with kickback during start. Is this a disaster
waiting to happen?
Bill B RV-6a 65 hrs western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig height and garage door |
Rick Jory wrote:
>
>
> FWIW, I'm keeping one of my garage doors such that it only opens 2/3rds of
> the way up. I've used a c-clamp to afix a block of wood, so that the door
> can't open any higher. One member of the H jig blocks the door from going
> up any higher--but this is fine by me.
> Rick Jory
Hi Rick & Others building Jigs
You can solve the garage door problem on many garage doors by designing
the jig so that the top of the jig post closest to the door is offset
and the garage door can go up and over a portion of the jig.
Simple schematic I I
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes |
>>>
>>> Heads up people using DeWalt rechargeable drills. I just got REALLY
>LUCKY!
>>>
As the failure progresses,
>the discharge accellerates, more heat etc. until it explodes or catches
>something on fire.
If this is the case then would you say it is not advisable to leave ni cad
batteries on charge overnight in a hanger with your most cherished
possession[RV] inside unattended?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
>
>Just rec'd Van's new capacitance fuel senders. Has anyone installed
>them yet and determined how to attach the wire from the plates to the
>BNC connector?? Plan doesn't offer any suggestions??
>
>Jerry "elecronically challenged" Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
>
-
I believe the BNC connecter supplied is one with a solder trough for
soldering a wire to. I will try and remember to check.
(Write me directly if you don't hear anything, I have been very sick all
week and probably wont be back at work until monday).
Scott McDaniels
Prior RV-6A owner
North Plains Or.
These opinions are mine alone, and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Controlo stick |
>Has anyone considered a left hand control stick similar to the Cirrus?
>Anyone interested in a design?
>/
>
>--
>Peter Laurence
>Trying to decide RV6 or RV6A
>Miami Fl
>
-
I think it is highly unlikely that anyone could do so and still retain
the great control harmony that RV's have.
>From what I have read Cirrus themselves had a difficult time keeping the
aileron stick (grip, yolk, what ever) forces low enough but still have
enough aileron travel.
With this type of "control" mechanism you can only use a control input of
45 deg rotation left or right of neutral. An aircraft with a typical
yolk style control like piper, cessna, etc has a rotation of 90 deg each
side of neutral.
It's not likely that anyone will make any improvement in an RV control
system until they try doing something with fly-by-wire and a computer,
but I don't want to give away any of Van's top secret projects.
Scott McDaniels
Prior RV-6A owner
North Plains Or.
These opinions are mine alone, and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
>Dumb question: If the right mag lacks an impulse coupling, is it
>capable of
>firing at engine cranking speeds?
-
Yes.
-
I have this setup, and I don't
>think I
>have the jumper installed on my ACS switch (I'll have to look to be
>sure)-
>and (so far) no problems with kickback during start. Is this a
>disaster
>waiting to happen?
-
Possibly.
It just requires all of the right conditions to happen at the same time.
Besides the impulse coupling providing a quick momentary boost in
rotation speed of the mag. (to help the mag put out a much higher level
than would be possible at the slow start cranking speed), they also
retard the timing by 25 deg so that the ignition fires at or very near
TDC. If you are starting with a mag still firing at 25 deg BTDC, because
of the slow crank speed of the engine you can get combustion in a cyl.
before it reaches TDC which will cause it to "kick back" in the opposite
direction.
BTW... this is a primary reason some of the newer type starter motors
help the engines start better than some of the older ones. They spin the
engine up just a little faster which gets you an even hotter spark from
the mag(s), and gives you a little more momentum to get through
TDC on the first cyl that is wanting to fire.
Scott McDaniels
Prior RV-6A owner
Northplains Or.
These opinions are mine alone, and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com |
>The 150 hp O-320s can burn mogas. The 160hp 0-320s can't (at least
>not in
>all flight regimes). As I recall the 150 hp engines have about 8.1:1
>and
>the 160hp engines are about 8.6:1.
-
I think Lycomings published compression ratios
are 7.0 : 1 for the 150 HP models, and 8.5 : 1 for the 160 HP
models.
Scott McDaniels
Prior RV-6A owner
North Plains Or.
These opinions are mine alone, and do not necessarily
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kurt" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 kit for sale |
Complete RV-4 kit for sale... includes finishing kit. Tail and wings
completed, fuselage not started. Philogistan spar. Tail strobe, position
lights, landing light installed. Very good construction, no time to finish.
$10,000. Can e-mail pictures if interested.
Kurt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
i was told that each diamond shape in the exhaust represented the
boundary where the exhaust slows down a multiple mach number.
For example, if you saw two diamond shapes in the exhaust then the
first one stood for the area where the temp/press equalized at the
2 mach point and the farther out diamond was the 1 mach boundary area.
is this a "old wives tale"?
do no archive
>From: "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Why?
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 22:05:09 -0600
>
>
>> When you see a jet fighter with its afterburner on, or when you see
a
>> fighter release a rocket, they both show in their exhause a series
of
>> pronounced light areas, or segments which are very much brighter
and more
>> intense than the spaces between them. It appears that some sort of
pulsing
>> or repetitive areas of greater and then lesser engine intensity are
>> occurring. What causes this?
>
>These are not pulses or fluctuations in the amount of thrust being
produced
>by the engine/motor. These areas of higher light intensity are areas
of
>higher pressure than the air around it. Basically, the higher the
pressure
>and temperature, the brighter the light. . . and in return we see
these
>"shock diamonds," as they are commonly called.
>
>The reason this air is at higher pressures/temps is that it is
exiting the
>nozzle at a supersonic speed. The air that the exhaust, or "plume,"
is
>entering is at a lower pressure and temperature, and in return gives
you a
>different color flame than the higher pressure/temp plume. These
shock
>diamonds are the result of the compression of this lower
pressure/temp air
>and the shock waves are the adjusting of this pressure and is
unstable as
>the plume develops. In all realities, the lower and higher pressure
air
>masses are trying to find a stability point where the pressures
equalize.
>When/if this happens, the plume usually reaches a stable point and
becomes
>subsonic. . . and the shock diamonds will dissipate. This is why you
>sometimes see these shock wave diamonds and they appear to move
throughout
>the plume, they are trying to find this stable point where the air
pressure
>equalize and become subsonic.
>
>There are several situations where you will not see these shock
diamonds.
>One is in a vacuum, simply because there is no air. The other rarely
>happens, and is when the outside air pressure is the exact same
pressure as
>the air existing the nozzle. There are times when these shock
diamonds are
>visible in the engine plume even when the plume or exhaust itself is
not.
>These engines burn liquid propellants and are cleaner burning than
most
>engines/motors. Liquid engines burn cleaner than solid motors, and
some
>liquid engines burn much cleaner than others and produce basically no
>visible plume, i.e. liquid oxygen (LOx) and liquid hydrogen (LH2) vs.
LOx
>and Kerosene liquid propellant engines. An example is the space
shuttle's
>main 3 engines (not the solid rocket booster, or SRB's). If you
look, at
>startup you can usually see a shock diamond that moves slightly and
then
>dissipates, then the plume is barely visible (usually you can still
slightly
>see it because the camera has a filter, etc.
>
>Well, bored you enough I suppose. I would strap an Atlas vernier
engine on
>the RV-3 to increase the STOL. . . but I'm afraid I would be over
gross and
>pull to many G's! :-)
>
>Blue skies!
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45
>Socorro, NM
>505-835-3644
>Rob Reece,
>Rocket Propulsion Test Facility Manager
>& Scorpius Launch Coordinator
>
>Microcosm/Volt
>c/o EMRTC
>NM Tech Mail Station
>Socorro, NM 87801
>(505) 835-5716 voice
>(505) 835-5299 fax
>
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Can anyone tell me how far the control stick moves side to side on an
RV-4 after the ailerons are installed. I have just put some stick boots
in the cockpit and I would like this info for my peace of mind. Thanks
in advance.
Carroll Bird RV-4 Preparing the fuselage for painting.
Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA |
AOA can be the most important instrument on your panel. We attended their
forum at SNF and beleive it is the best of the AOA systems offered. We are
getting together a group buy for the 1st of May. See their site at
www.angle-of-attack.com
All we know is that we have 3 buying now and they told us the price would be
better than their show price and the more we buy, the less per unit price.
Bernie Kerr, RV6A
John Harlowe, Wheeler Express
Both retired aero engineers
REPLY OFFLINE kerrjbaol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jig length |
Chris,
I set mine 115" apart. I'm happy with the way it has worked out. I'll
send you a photo of it off list.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks
Boca Raton, Fl.
> All you 8 builders,what length did you make between the uprights for
> the wing jig for regular 8 kits.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
If you want all the gory details about how this happens then go to this web
site and read about it. This was provided by Kevin Horton and is the actual
, real, and animated explanation about how this phenomenon occurs. I post
his because I keep seeing some people posting speculation about how this
occurs. (Has anyone found a question that couldn't be answered by some web
site somewhere?) AL
>See http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/rocket3.htm for a more technical
>explanation and lots of pictures (caution - this is a huge web page
>with lots of animations to download before it does its magic, be
>patient).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes(att. D. Nuckolls) |
In a message dated 4/22/99 10:51:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
morristec(at)icdc.com writes:
<< That's why there is an AD and a regulation that prevents the installation
of
Nicad batteries in certified aircraft without a temperature monitor. They
have blown up more than once in flight. I once saw about 3 ft of the nose
of a helicopter missing including the battery after a runaway inflight.
The failure mode of nicad cells results in a self discharge, which converts
all of the stored electrical energy into heat. As the failure progresses,
the discharge accellerates, more heat etc. until it explodes or catches
something on fire. This is accellerated when the cells are being rapidly
charged.
Dan Morris
RV6 >>
Do recombinants have a similar failure mode?
Bernie Kerr, RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
I need two older drawings.
sheet 43 and sheet 48 for the floor mounted rudder peddals. I have the new
sheets 43a and 48a. They don't tell me what I need to know.
a copy of the small study palns would be good.
FREE. I am going to use slider canopy. I have some tilt-up parts for free if
anyone has screwed any of their stuff up.
Phil at Litchfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | No CAL RV6 Fuse Jig 4-Sale |
| From: | Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
Northern California: Reid Hillview Airport, near San Jose.
My jig is up - for sale. Slightly used (second RV). I got it for $50.
You can have it for $50. Net cost to me: $40K and 2,000 hours of my
time on earth.
Also included: RV jigs, fixtures, packing trash, and as much "free"
advice as you can "afford."
Reply off list - available NOW!
Bill Watson
Mountain View, CA
650 254 -1656
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA |
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 8:17 AM
Subject: RV-List: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA
>
>AOA can be the most important instrument on your panel. We attended their
>forum at SNF and beleive it is the best of the AOA systems offered. We are
>getting together a group buy for the 1st of May. See their site at
>www.angle-of-attack.com
>All we know is that we have 3 buying now and they told us the price would
be
>better than their show price and the more we buy, the less per unit price.
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV6A
>John Harlowe, Wheeler Express
>
>Both retired aero engineers
>
>REPLY OFFLINE kerrjbaol.com
Perhaps they discussed these concerns at the forum -- if so, what were the
answers?:
1) How does the upward-facing static port handle water?
2) Does the aural warning say "Angle Angle Push" in inverted flight when
approaching critical AOA?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes(att. D. Nuckolls) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes(att. D. Nuckolls)
>
>In a message dated 4/22/99 10:51:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>morristec(at)icdc.com writes:
>
><< That's why there is an AD and a regulation that prevents the
installation
>of
> Nicad batteries in certified aircraft without a temperature monitor. They
> have blown up more than once in flight. > Dan Morris
> RV6 >>
>
>
>Do recombinants have a similar failure mode?
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV6A
I believe the failure mode of concern is a dead short upstream of the
fusable link. One battery vendor at OSH told me of a "Lear Jet Dead Short
Spec". The fully-charged RG (recombinant gas) battery has a 1 milliohm
short imposed across it. The battery can distort but must not leak -- most
importantly, it must not explode. The vendor went on to say that golf cart
RG batteries and the like will flunk this test. There is supposedly an NTSB
report of a homebuilt incident based on an RG battery exploding in flight.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drawings wanted |
What model RV?? Jim Brown, Matawan,NJ RV-3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Center Control Stick |
Stick
>
> Are center mounted control sticks just a bad idea in an RV or does
> anybody know if this has been done/attempted?
Several years ago I helped a friend build an RV6 with a center stick. My
friend lost his left arm as a young man and we were forced to come up with
an arrangement that would work for him. We used Van's control stick and
interjected a third pivot point between left and right stick pivot. This
was done to keep the rest of the controls stock. The stick is equipped with
a twist grip throttle off a Harley and switches for flaps and trim. The
arrangement has worked out very well and feels quite natural. The seats are
unobstruced and the stick can be used from either side. This aircraft has
flown for about 5 years and was featured in a 4 page article in Sport
Aviation (unfortunately I do not remeber the Issue number).
Martin Sutter RV6 868CM 1,350hrs
Lewisville, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>
>I think Lycomings published compression ratios
>are 7.0 : 1 for the 150 HP models, and 8.5 : 1 for the 160 HP
>models.
Thanks everyone for correcting me. That is what I get for not looking it
up before posting.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes(att. D. Nuckolls) |
>In a message dated 4/22/99 10:51:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>morristec(at)icdc.com writes:
>
><< That's why there is an AD and a regulation that prevents the installation
>of
> Nicad batteries in certified aircraft without a temperature monitor. They
> have blown up more than once in flight.>>
NiCd batteries have an interesting failure mode called "thermal runaway."
As a NiCd cell gets hotter, its voltage drops. If you are charging, the
decrease in voltage causes the current to increase (constant voltage
charging as used in our aircraft electrical systems) which makes the
battery hotter which causes the voltage to decrease further which causes
more current, etc., until the battery catches fire.
This used to be a big problem with turbine twin aircraft. The pilot would
start one engine from the battery which would draw a lot of current and
start the battery heating. If the battery was low the pilot would let the
first generator charge the battery for a bit before hitting the starter for
the second engine. The partial charge cycle would heat the battery further
and then the second start would heat it even more. Now the battery is good
and hot when the second generator comes on-line and both generators deliver
tons of current to charge the battery. Sometimes the failure would be
spactacular but most of the time the battery would just catch fire.
I suspect what happened to your drill battery pack is that you ran the pack
so low that one cell went completely flat and then was reverse-charged by
the other cells. This may cause the bad cell to short. When you put it
into the charger there is excessive current because the pack voltage is too
low. The excess current caused thermal runaway in the rest of the cells.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retard or Impulse Magnetos |
>
>Dumb question: If the right mag lacks an impulse coupling, is it capable of
>firing at engine cranking speeds? I have this setup, and I don't think I
>have the jumper installed on my ACS switch (I'll have to look to be sure)-
>and (so far) no problems with kickback during start. Is this a disaster
>waiting to happen?
If your starter turns the engine fast enough, you can get a spark from the
non-impulse-coupled mag that will fire the engine before TDC. This would
produce a "kick back" but if the battery and starter are healthy the
starter will turn the engine past TDC anyway. This is hard on the starter
so it is better to ground the non-retarded mag anyway.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA |
>Perhaps they discussed these concerns at the forum -- if so, what were the
>answers?:
I wasn't at SnF but I had previously asked these questions.
>1) How does the upward-facing static port handle water?
It has a drainable sump as part of the kit.
>2) Does the aural warning say "Angle Angle Push" in inverted flight when
>approaching critical AOA?
The system doesn't work right now in inverted flight. The software
currently assumes that that wing is loaded positively, e.g. positive
pressure differential from top to bottom of the wing.
I asked if they could change this and they said that it was possible but I
was the only one who had asked for it so far. Since most aircraft use
assymetrical airfoils, you would have to duplicate the calibration
procedure while inverted.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA |
I have purchased the first part of the kit for this AOA system. This first
kit is about $300 if I remember well and it includes everything you need to
install the sensors in the wing. You also get a one year price guarantee for
when you are ready to buy the rest of the system.
I thought the kit was well thought-out, and the instructions were very
clear. Took me about 2 hours to install it in the second last wing bay,
about 5 inches in front of the spar, before I closed the wing. I installed
it there because they say it should be in undisturbed airflow, out of the
propwash, but not too close to the wing tip. I will be able to access it for
maintenance via the DuckWorks landing light opening in the outboard bay.
Recommended, so far.
Sylvain Duford
RV-8 #47, Closing the wings, fuselage on order.
Bellevue, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA
>
> >Perhaps they discussed these concerns at the forum -- if so, what were
the
> >answers?:
>
> I wasn't at SnF but I had previously asked these questions.
>
> >1) How does the upward-facing static port handle water?
>
> It has a drainable sump as part of the kit.
>
> >2) Does the aural warning say "Angle Angle Push" in inverted flight when
> >approaching critical AOA?
>
> The system doesn't work right now in inverted flight. The software
> currently assumes that that wing is loaded positively, e.g. positive
> pressure differential from top to bottom of the wing.
>
> I asked if they could change this and they said that it was possible but I
> was the only one who had asked for it so far. Since most aircraft use
> assymetrical airfoils, you would have to duplicate the calibration
> procedure while inverted.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
Doyon:
I have exactly the same problem: 7' ceiling height in my basement
workshop. A post in the archives advised that the highest tail
component is the VS, at 31 inches. So, I've built the horizontal
part of my jig at the same height as my workbench, which is 37" from
the floor. This leaves about 4' between the jig and the ceiling.
I'm still working on the HS, so I can't yet say how well it works,
but the space seems reasonable.
Tedd McHenry tedd(at)compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/
Surrey, BC, Canada
RV-6 tail in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
guys,
i just went out and measured my jig to answer your question, if you built
your cross beam at 37 above the floor your ok for the emp kit, for the wing
kit set your main spar brace from the floor at 57". this will give you
enough room to attach your aileron and flaps with out hitting the floor, and
will still give you clearance to the ceiling with about 4" to the ceiling.
the braces works best if they are mounted on the inside of the 2 verticle
post which the post are 109" apart. if i'm not clear on this let me know
before my jig comes down this week
good luck
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wire harness and busses |
Re. the military aircraft "design philosophy" and the use of fuses, the
Douglas A-4 Skyhawk, designed by the master, Ed Heineman, was designed to be
as compact (carrier based) and simple (eg. small enough to have a stiff wing,
no wing fold mechanism) as was possible. It made extensive use
of.......FUSES.
Doug Seward
-4 , wings, Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes(att. D. Nuckolls) |
>
>Do recombinants have a similar failure mode?
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV6A
>
No! Thank goodness
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Hello Listers,
How do I go about grounding the braid on "shielded wire"?
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved) Youngstown, OH
"The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 False spar |
Message text written by Scott Jordan
>>added a .016 aluminum shim to bring the thickness to .040" over my spar
thickness,
>>didn't want to be caught short. You can always add a shim if needed but
I
>>wouldn't want ot subtract material to make the spar fit.
-
Message text written by Scott McDaniels
>Adding an additional .010 in. or maybe .015 in. would be exceptable to
>make sure wings install easily...
>040. inch is quite a lot of clearance on a highly loaded structural joint
>like this. As stiff and solid as the whole center section is after
>skinning the fuselage, it may be difficult to get the spar and center
>section to mate tightly without over torquing the bolts. Also... shims
>on this type of a structural joint in the airplane would not be
>exceptable.
Scott, Thanks for the info. I just went out and removed some shims, I am
now down to about .005" over (gawd, I hope these wings fit!). Fortunatly,
I hadn't drilled the skins yet and I was able to do this easily without
changing the spar to spar distance.
Shouldn't critcal tolerances such as this be in the manual and / or
plans???
Scott A. Jordan
Fuselage skins this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Microphone jack wiring |
wayne bonesteel wrote:
> The mic jack (the one with 3 contacts), Is the longer contact wired
> to "mic" and the shorter contact wired to "tx key"? thats the way
> they are ID'd on the wiring diagram, I just don't want to damage this high priced
IIMorrow gps/com.
>
> Thanks all who help.
> Wayne RV-4 panel
> South Lake Tahoe, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 False spar |
easy way to get the dummy spar thickness to hold the correct
dimensions....go to a wood shop , buy from then a scrap of checked hardwood
, cut to the dimensions you want , get them to run it thru the planner . i
have done 4 like this and the last one cost me 8 dollars...marty
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Friday, 23 April 1999 06:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 False spar
>
>Message text written by Scott Jordan
>>>added a .016 aluminum shim to bring the thickness to .040" over my spar
>thickness,
>>>didn't want to be caught short. You can always add a shim if needed but
>I
>>>wouldn't want ot subtract material to make the spar fit.
>-
>Message text written by Scott McDaniels
>>Adding an additional .010 in. or maybe .015 in. would be exceptable to
>>make sure wings install easily...
>
>>040. inch is quite a lot of clearance on a highly loaded structural joint
>>like this. As stiff and solid as the whole center section is after
>>skinning the fuselage, it may be difficult to get the spar and center
>>section to mate tightly without over torquing the bolts. Also... shims
>>on this type of a structural joint in the airplane would not be
>>exceptable.
>
>Scott, Thanks for the info. I just went out and removed some shims, I am
>now down to about .005" over (gawd, I hope these wings fit!). Fortunatly,
>I hadn't drilled the skins yet and I was able to do this easily without
>changing the spar to spar distance.
>
> Shouldn't critcal tolerances such as this be in the manual and / or
>plans???
>
>Scott A. Jordan
>Fuselage skins this weekend
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Free wing stands |
I have the wing storage stands with rollers that I built to store my wings,
roll into the back of the Nissan Pickup, and now are just taking up space in
the hanger. They were so simple to build, and used surplus wheels, they are
free for the asking, and picking up. Store both wings almost vertically,
back to back, tops out. Include straps to hold them down. Located at the
San Luis Obispo Calif. airport
Bruce Patton
bpattonsoa(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA |
What was the show price and are you talking about the Sport model or the
Professional? Also, can the sensor be purchased and put in the wing and then
decide later on which model to purchase? Seems like the sensors would be
the same and the Sport model give one 90% functionality for 60% of the cost.
Marty RV6 in Nashville.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 8:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Quantity buy of Proprietary Software Systems AOA
>
>AOA can be the most important instrument on your panel. We attended their
>forum at SNF and beleive it is the best of the AOA systems offered. We are
>getting together a group buy for the 1st of May. See their site at
>www.angle-of-attack.com
>All we know is that we have 3 buying now and they told us the price would
be
>better than their show price and the more we buy, the less per unit price.
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV6A
>John Harlowe, Wheeler Express
>
>Both retired aero engineers
>
>REPLY OFFLINE kerrjbaol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I have a question regarding pop rivets for those of you knowledgeable about
such things. Vans supplies several different kinds of pop rivets.
Obviously each is better suited for a particular application, they probably
also have different strengths. I have been recently searching trying to
find the above information; I even ordered the latest issue of AC 43.13,
however it has very little data about pop rivets.
Does anyone know where I can find selection criteria, strengths, acceptable
substitutions, recommended uses, etc. for pop rivets?
Vince
saving for RV-8A wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Dupont 226S Alodine solution |
Hi RV'ers, Work is progressing pretty well so far on my RV-8 Empennage. I'm
almost to the stage of riveting the rear spar. One question for you experts
though, I'm using Dupont 226S Alodine fo my non alclad stuff. Reading the
saftey related information makes me wonder some what, after you have
finished applying the Alodine solution with the scotch pads do you collect
the water you used to rinse it off and dispose of it, or are you just
rinsing it off outside? Then again all chemical these days say cancer
causing... birth defect... etc. I can protect myself with safety equipment,
its my kids that I would worry about if I rinsed it outside. I don't have a
sewer collection drain in my garage, so any suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks..
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Empennage
Bonnyville, Ab. Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CA use taxes being collected |
Well, gang, we knew a Democratic governor was going to go for our wallets and
now I have been the recipient of the first salvo. All CA residents with
newly flying planes should be prepared.
Today I received a notice from the state board of equalization claiming I owe
the state 8.25% of the cost of building my RV-6A as a use tax just for the
privilege of flying it in the golden state. They require documented proof of
the claimed total purchase price. I bought my kit and engine out of state
because there was no company in California that had a kit that I liked and
Van's doesn't have a retail outlet in CA, so why do I have to pay this?
What should my response to them be? Who knows the details of this part of
the California tax law? I would appreciate any constructive comments and/or
observations.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CA use taxes being collected |
re this tax in california .i thinking that is just your regular state tax do
on all purchases you make , no matter if the purchases are made in or out of
the state. i assume all purchases made from out of state are taxable. it is
your responsibility to report any purchases from out of state. if the out of
state seller collects the tax on your purchase you are still required to
remit the california tax and collect a tax refund from the state it was
collected.
how do they find out you bought this stuff? when you register your plane
with the faa . the tax department is allerted or probably connected to the
data base file they keep on you. BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING !
i am from canada and that is one way they watch for you. i am just assuming
that it works the same in the states as i believe the canadian government
watches and copies this stuff going on in the states , they couldn't figure
it out themselves.
want to hear part two of your tax assesment?
you will give them the reciepts , it was a number of years that you had the
plane under construction , so i assume the purchases were made possibly a
couple of years or more ago. well you were suppose to report it . wether you
were aware of it or not . ignorance is no excuse [ except in their case]
now because the purchases are old , no problem , they just add interest to
your bill.
there are ways to minimize it.
but i am sure you will pay.
if you think i am making fun of this , i am not .
I HAVE BEEN THERE , and probably others too
i might be wrong buthis is how they get us in canada.
........marty .....sarasota florida
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, 23 April 1999 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: CA use taxes being collected
>
>Well, gang, we knew a Democratic governor was going to go for our wallets
and
>now I have been the recipient of the first salvo. All CA residents with
>newly flying planes should be prepared.
>
>Today I received a notice from the state board of equalization claiming I
owe
>the state 8.25% of the cost of building my RV-6A as a use tax just for the
>privilege of flying it in the golden state. They require documented proof
of
>the claimed total purchase price. I bought my kit and engine out of state
>because there was no company in California that had a kit that I liked and
>Van's doesn't have a retail outlet in CA, so why do I have to pay this?
>
>What should my response to them be? Who knows the details of this part of
>the California tax law? I would appreciate any constructive comments
and/or
>observations.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Microphone jack wiring |
Wayne,
The tip of the mike plug is The Key contact.
Second ring from the tip is Mike contact.
Third ring is common or ground.
When you key the mike you are putting the tip
of the mike plug to ground.
Stew RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Microphone jack wiring |
In a message dated 4/23/99 5:42:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wayneb(at)oakweb.com writes:
<< The mic jack (the one with 3 contacts), Is the longer contact wired
> to "mic" and the shorter contact wired to "tx key"? >>
The sleeve (shank) of the plug is ground, the ring is the mic audio and the
tip is the mic key (no connect if you have a stick mounted mic key switch).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire |
In a message dated 4/23/99 3:10:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pagan(at)CBOSS.COM
writes:
<< How do I go about grounding the braid on "shielded wire"? >>
In industry we use what's called a solder sleeve (a ring of solder inside a
piece of shrink sleeving that has melting seal rings at the ends). You can
accomplish essentially the same thing by just trimming back the shielding so
that there is about .25" remaining, Leave the braid completely intact
against the primary wire(s) (don't tease it out), flow solder around the
remaining braid, solder a piece of stripped 20 AWG wire to it and then shrink
sleeve the connection.
Don't try this with PVC wiring but then you shouldn't be using PVC now should
you?
The mistake that most people make is to tease it out, twist it and then
solder a wire to it. It then becomes too vulnerable to damage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Microphone jack wiring |
>
> > The mic jack (the one with 3 contacts), Is the longer contact wired
> > to "mic" and the shorter contact wired to "tx key"? thats the way
> > they are ID'd on the wiring diagram, I just don't want to damage this high
priced IIMorrow gps/com.
> >
> > Thanks all who help.
> > Wayne RV-4 panel
> > South Lake Tahoe, Ca.
Hi, Wayne.
In telephone parlance, the plug's parts are known as "tip", "ring" , and
"sleeve". Guess which one is which! The PTT is on the tip. The ring
is the mic hot. The sleeve is ground. I measured it on my standby
Microphone. Wire the jack accordingly.
Tom Glover
RV6A Surrey BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 False spar |
| From: | scott r r mcdaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Message text written by Scott Jordan
>>>added a .016 aluminum shim to bring the thickness to .040" over my
>spar
>thickness,
>>>didn't want to be caught short. You can always add a shim if needed
> but
>I
>>>wouldn't want ot subtract material to make the spar fit.
>-
>Message text written by Scott McDaniels
>>Adding an additional .010 in. or maybe .015 in. would be exceptable
>to
>>make sure wings install easily...
>
>>040. inch is quite a lot of clearance on a highly loaded structural
>joint
>>like this. As stiff and solid as the whole center section is after
>>skinning the fuselage, it may be difficult to get the spar and center
>>section to mate tightly without over torquing the bolts. Also...
>shims
>>on this type of a structural joint in the airplane would not be
>>exceptable.
>
>Scott, Thanks for the info. I just went out and removed some shims,
>I am
>now down to about .005" over (gawd, I hope these wings fit!).
>Fortunatly,
>I hadn't drilled the skins yet and I was able to do this easily
>without
>changing the spar to spar distance.
>
> Shouldn't critcal tolerances such as this be in the manual and / or
>plans???
>
>Scott A. Jordan
>Fuselage skins this weekend
>
Yes it should... and it is. The manual instructs you to make a spacer
that is 1 7/16 inch thick. As long as it is mad to that size (or maybe
even .005 to .010 inch under that) a builder should have no trouble
installing the wings. I guess that a + and - tolerance could be given
but we figured that builders should be able to get it pretty close so
didn't feel it was necessary.
If you glue together some particle board and then have to rip it to width
on a table saw, you should be able to get very close to the exact size
without a large amount of effort.
BTW... In the proto shop we use aluminum spacers that are sized exactly
to the spar thickness. Rub a little boelube or candle wax on the spar
stubs and they slide right in when installing the wings.
Even if after skinning the fuselage if you find that the opening is
slightly (.005, .010, maybe even .015 inch) under sized you can file a
very small bevel on the last 1/16 " of the spar bars and then finish very
smooth. This will allow you to get the spar started which will then
spread the bars in the center section very, very slightly. This
situation is much better than having it sloppy and trying to pull it
together with the bolts.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR.
These opinions and ideas are my own, and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hugh Roberton <hrr(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi there!
Having done all my flying in Cessnas 172 and 182's and enjoyed the shade of the
high wing and a
sunvisor on a hot day I can't help wondering how you get on in a bubble canopy
with the sun beating
down on a long trip!
--
Hugh Roberton
Melbourne
Australia
Dreaming about RV's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 kit for sale |
Kurt
Please e-mail pictures off list
BSivori(at)Aol.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Load analysis |
Hi Leo,
I have seen the docs. for the load analysis and at first glance it looks
straight foward enough.
>1. How do you deal with transient power loads. eg My King Nav/Com only
>draws 0.9 Amps with the receiver and VOR turned on but pushing the transmit
>button sucks up another 4.5 Amperes.
I haven't see anything mentioned about this. Perhaps you could take a worst
case approach just for you own benefit. Have a normal load and a peek load
figure. For the wire I took the full 'transmit' power even though the
battery wire I calculated it as a tranisent load.
>The transmit function is obviously
>only used a few seconds at a time. Does this mean that I can ignore this
>4.5 amps in terms of calculating the total load and the required endurance
>on the battery alone?
Are you not going to transmit? Calculate the amp/hour power you might use.
>There are also a number of very transient loads eg
>the primer solonoid,
Shouldn't need to use the primer unless you are on the ground.
> the electric trim, the flap motor. How are these
>included (if at all) in a load justification.
The start loads can be large, but should be less than a second.
>
>2. For emergency purposes (30 minutes operation on battery alone) what do
>you have to include. I assume you would include pitot heat but what about
>strobes and landing lights, these latter one would only flick on for the
>last ten seconds of flight. If I was worried about power I'd have the
>strobes off and take my chances on a mid-air... Is there a convention for
>these things.
In an emergency what is the minimum you need to have on for safe flying?
Calculate worst case and work back until you have the number to fit. That
way you will know in the unlikely event of an emergency what you can have on.
>
>3. Can you use measured power consumption.... many manufactures seem to be
>poor in providing figures. My LASAR electronic ignition for instance has no
>documented power consumption figures anywhere in the supplied literature.
>Ditto for the little lamps in instruments.
The lamps should have a power (watt) figue on them.
Power(Watt) = Voltage(Volts) x Current(Amps)
Current = Power / Voltage will give you the amps for the amp/hour calculation.
>
>4. What does the field of ones alternator draw in flight. When I measure
>this on the ground (engine not running) the Voyager type regulator kicks it
>a healthy 6 Amps. Does this drop as the charging voltage comes up? I assume
>yes, but to what?
I am very surprised at this figure. I thought that the field energising was
a very small current.
Measure the Resistance with a meter.
Volt = Resistance x Current
Resistance = Voltage / Current => R = 12/6 = 2 ohms. Seems low, but I am not
sure.
I would have thought it would be a least 6 ohms
Current = Voltage / Resistance => I = 12/6 = 2 amps but even this seems high
current
All the best
Royce Craven
Painting - Dying from the fumes even with the breathing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
it can be quite uncomfortable at times. to help make sure you put in good
ventilation , fly higher , wear a cap , fly early in the day or in the
evening , you can buy some shaded sunscreens that stick inside the canopy by
friction.
the canopy can also be very enjoyable when it is cool and the sun keeps you
very comfortable. and the visibility is marvelous..
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Roberton <hrr(at)bigpond.com>
April 16, 1999 - April 24, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gt