RV-Archive.digest.vol-gu
April 24, 1999 - April 29, 1999
>
>
>Hi there!
>
>Having done all my flying in Cessnas 172 and 182's and enjoyed the shade of
the high wing and a
>sunvisor on a hot day I can't help wondering how you get on in a bubble
canopy with the sun beating
>down on a long trip!
>
>--
>Hugh Roberton
>Melbourne
>Australia
>Dreaming about RV's.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Marty: What ever happened to C-GAVF?? Jim Brown,Matawan,NJ RV-3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
do you mean C-GRVF ??
-----Original Message-----
From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, 24 April 1999 09:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sunburn etc
>
>Marty: What ever happened to C-GAVF?? Jim Brown,Matawan,NJ RV-3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
>
>How high can a person go on piston compression (8.1,9.1, etc.) and still be
>able to burn autogas?
>
>
>Wayne Feggestad
Just do it! Engine screws up,
Try 50% avegas with unleaded car
gas, has tricked a 300 hp Cessan 185 and a 160 Lcycomb!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>Today I received a notice from the state board of equalization claiming I owe
>the state 8.25% of the cost of building my RV-6A.........
Same thing here in Colorado. Soon after I registered Suzie Q with the (we
are here to help you) FAA, I get a notice from the state saying I owe so
much in sales tax on the airplane. I protested and they sent me a copy of
the law that allowes the collection of the tax. I sent them copies of
receipts for the KIT COMPONENTS from Van's and they taxed me on that, as a
construction material. Since you only bought the materials to build the
airplane, not the finished aircraft, you only pay taxes on the cost of the
construction material. CA might be different. Don't fight it; they will win.
Michael
'If you drive a car I'll tax the street;
If you try to sit I'll tax your seat;
If you get too cold I'll tax the heat;
If you take a walk I'll tax your feet.
Cuz I'm the Taxman, yeah, I'm the Taxman....
________________________________________________________________________________
I had posted a number of items that I had left over from my project, one
of which was a Kohler manual fuel- primer unit (second hand). I sold all
of the items, but somehow lost the name and address of the buyer for the
primer unit. Wherever you are, please contact me. The price was $35.00. I
will repost it to the list for sale in a few days if I don't hear from
the original buyer. Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Marty: I read the picture wrong...Thats it! Jim Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv6a - 6 same kit |
Hi
I have seen an advert selling empennage and wings for rv6a, I am looking
to build rv6. are the kits the same for both models
--
Dave Powell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Regarding sales tax on home built aircraft in Colorado: A few years ago
Colorado was attempting to lure United Airlines here to build their large
overhaul/maintenance base. In order to "sweeten the pot" the state
legislature specifically EXEMPTED sales taxes on aircraft parts. It's state
law. I have had friends who were contacted by the state revenue people in an
attempt to collect taxes, but when challenged they back down. Without a
so-called "use" tax states cannot tax across state lines. That doesn't mean
they don't try or routinely do it, it just means the Commerce Clause of the
US Copnstitution prohibits it!
If you paid Colorado state sales taxes on your kit, apply for a refund. If
you contact me off line I will cite the Colorado Statute section that
applies.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Afew months ago, I flew from Santa Monica to Santa Maria in a Bonanza owned by
Olen Nelson, vice
president for research and development for Flight Environments, Inc. Van's lists
the company in the
back of the Accessories Catalog.
His Bonanza is fitted with an application of gold, but not one applied
in a vacuum chamber. Rather, it is applied on the interior of the
Plexiglas after the Plexiglas is cleaned and polished. The applique is
heated and fitted to conform to the Plexiglas surface; then a protective
layer is removed and the applique is adhered to the Plexiglas. Compound
surfaces require careful fitting, of course, and the sheet of material
is limited in size by the difficulty in fitting. When more than one
sheet is needed to cover a surface, butt joints are used that result in
a very fine line being visible where the sheets are joined. I did not
find those lines to be distracting or troublesome. The inside surface
of the applique is covered with a hard coat, making it relatively immune
to scratching.
Olen's windshield is only covered with gold tint across its upper,
inside surface. While in flight, I held my hand up to the lower portion
of the Bonanza's windshield, which had not been treated, then up to the
portion that had been treated; the difference in the sun's heating that
I could feel on my hand was very substantial. The applique was called
"Aero Gold Window Tint," at least it was when Flight Environments was
called Aero Shield. Olen reports that it blocks over 98 percent of
incident UV radiation and is now being evaluated by the manufacturer to
determine how much IR radiation it transmits. It transmits the
"required" 70 percent of incident light specified by Section 23.775(e)
when applied to the lightly tinted Plexiglas (about 85 percent light
transmission) usually used in aeronautical applications. The optical
properties of the gold tint are also excellent; it was developed
originally as a protective cover for camera lenses used in spacecraft.
This canopy treatment not only solves the problem of sunburn; it also solves the
problem of heating on
a hot ramp in the summer sunlight. My suggestion is to check it out.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A
Hugh Roberton wrote:
>
> Hi there!
>
> Having done all my flying in Cessnas 172 and 182's and enjoyed the shade of the
high wing and a
> sunvisor on a hot day I can't help wondering how you get on in a bubble canopy
with the sun beating
> down on a long trip!
>
> --
> Hugh Roberton
> Melbourne
> Australia
> Dreaming about RV's.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 HS Hinge Brackets |
Hello Listers,
I'm just starting on my RV-3 empennage and already have a question. There
seems to be a discrepancy between the plans and the instructions...
The instructions say that the hinge brackets that are attached to the HS rear
spar for the elevators are steel and are included in kits after 1988. The
brackets were not included in my kit. The _plans_ say that I'm supposed to
fabricate these brackets out of .125 aluminum stock which _is_ included in my
kit.
I don't really mind fabricating the brackets, but I'm concerned about the
long-term prospects of having a steel bolt running through the aluminum
brackets. Don't these things wear and eventually cause slop in the hinge
point? Could this be why post-1988 kits were (supposedly) shipped with the
steel brackets?
I realize that this is probably a question for Van's, but it's Saturday and
I'm all fired up to do something! I just thought maybe somebody else may have
had this question...
To those of you who might recognize my name... Yes, I was building an RV-8
(#80033). Since then, I've changed careers and have decided an RV-3 would
better fit my needs. I received my RV-3 empennage kit this past Thursday. The
fun is just beginning... None of the parts have any pilot holes in them.
What's up with that?
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Northern Colorado
RV-3, empennage barely out of the box
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv6a - 6 same kit |
Dave,
They are the same.
The change comes in with the Fuse kits and following.
Mark 6a tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | tilt up parts clarified |
I am only into the fuselage so those are the only parts that I have.
I have the cabin rollover parts 631A seems to be two sets (8curved pieces)
621A right and left
621B
644
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv6a - 6 same kit |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)Juno.com> |
Dave, the wing and tail kits are the same for both the RV-6 and RV-6A,
the difference is in the fuselage kits. Dave Ahrens, RV-6A
fuselage, Bakersfield, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Curved Cuts In Plexiglass Canopy |
I have a crack in my RV-4 canopy situated low down near the rear
passenger seat. As a potential repair scheme, I am thinking about
cutting a small vent or window in the canopy. Tony Bingelis wrote up
something like this in Sport Aviation a while ago. The cutout would be
about 5 inches long, 3 inches high and have corners with about a 1 inch
radius.
What ways are there to make this sort of cut? I am aware of the
potential to totally destroy the canopy if I goof.
Ron Taborek RV-4 Toronto Moving components to hangar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillip Kumalae" <P_Kumalae(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 HS Hinge Brackets |
Rod......The bolts should not turn in the brackets. They will be tightened
and the only thing that should turn is the rod end bearing. I fabricated my
brackets and they are ok....Phil in Charlotte, NC. Rv3 01028. Still a
building.
-----Original Message-----
From: WoodardRod(at)aol.com <WoodardRod(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 12:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-3 HS Hinge Brackets
>
>Hello Listers,
>
>I'm just starting on my RV-3 empennage and already have a question. There
>seems to be a discrepancy between the plans and the instructions...
>
>The instructions say that the hinge brackets that are attached to the HS
rear
>spar for the elevators are steel and are included in kits after 1988. The
>brackets were not included in my kit. The _plans_ say that I'm supposed to
>fabricate these brackets out of .125 aluminum stock which _is_ included in
my
>kit.
>
>I don't really mind fabricating the brackets, but I'm concerned about the
>long-term prospects of having a steel bolt running through the aluminum
>brackets. Don't these things wear and eventually cause slop in the hinge
>point? Could this be why post-1988 kits were (supposedly) shipped with the
>steel brackets?
>
>I realize that this is probably a question for Van's, but it's Saturday and
>I'm all fired up to do something! I just thought maybe somebody else may
have
>had this question...
>
>To those of you who might recognize my name... Yes, I was building an RV-8
>(#80033). Since then, I've changed careers and have decided an RV-3 would
>better fit my needs. I received my RV-3 empennage kit this past Thursday.
The
>fun is just beginning... None of the parts have any pilot holes in them.
>What's up with that?
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rod Woodard
>Northern Colorado
>RV-3, empennage barely out of the box
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6a - 6 same kit |
hi dave
No they are not
Please feel free to call me for the empenage kit
stan z
516 698 0280
thezing3(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz Aero products on the WWW |
Greetings All,
I was surprised today to find that a satified customer of my heated
pitot tube mounting bracket (he is a Glasair builder) , put some of my
product flyers on the WWW. I mostly provide products for RV builders,
but I do sell to other builders also. You may want to take a look at
what he has done and also see a sample of some of my products. Take a
look at: www.datawest.net/shime/gretz.html
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rollover protection |
If I could get a little feedback, I would appreciate it. I, m going to build
a 6 or an 8. I,ve yet to decide. The larger problem to me is weather to put
the third wheel where it belongs ( in back of course) or would I have a
slightly better chance of not going over (should I have to head for the
rhubarb), with the wheel in front. At least with a champ or a 170 you have
the wing on top, and a door or two to get out of. I keep getting this
terrible vision of being upside down in this bubble, with a great view of
watching engulf me with no way out. From what i,ve read, it seems that you
can really put the brakes to the RV? or the RV?-A , which suggests to me that
there not as willing to go on their back as say a champ or a luscome. Also
its seems to me that a RV-6 may be easier to exit because you have a little
more room to move. Any suggestions?
Thanks Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CA use taxes being collected |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Today I received a notice from the state board of equalization claiming I
owe
> the state 8.25% of the cost of building my RV-6A as a use tax just for the
> privilege of flying it in the golden state.
>
They call it the Golden State because the state gets all the gold. One
fellow in Mojave last year decided that he wasn't going to pay the tax and
took a chainsaw to his brand new all wood homebuilt (I don't remember the
type) and threw it in the dumpster. This is not hearsay, the pictures were
in the paper.
Perehaps a more reasonable alternative would be to register yourself as a
Delaware corporation. I'm not sure how to go about that, but a friend of
mine did that with his airplane, and said that it worked out fine. I seem to
remember him saying that the cost is about $40 to $50 per year (don't quote
me on that). After a few years you can change the registration back to
California if you want. You don't have to pay use tax if you have had your
airplane registered outside CA for a certain period. I haven't looked into
it yet, as it will be several years before I register mine, and as much as I
move around, I may not still be in CA then anyway. If you're interested,
e-mail me off list and I'll get the particulars.
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi, CA
RV-4 elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Just returned from the MN RVators forum. Great show! Many Thanks to the
fine organizational skills of Doug Weiler and the MN RVator team .
I did not count but I am guessing there were 40 to 50 RVs and a couple
hundred people. The Race went off without a hitch. Brandon Mc Neilus won
in a hopped up RV-4 with a hotrod O-360 in it. (some lowly warbird pilot in
a pink airplane got second place in the 320 heat, beat by a C/S prop with
hi-dollar wheel pants)
Bill Benedict had the -8A there. He told the secret of how copper wire was
invented. ( two dutchmen fighting over a penny, one was a tall slender
aviator name Van)
Being disappointed about my second place finish in the race I went to St
Paul after lunch and came back with the CAF B-25 and tried to run the race
again...... No takers.......
It was a great mission! The race was a big hit and I can see that this sort
of thing will quickly get out of hand!!!! Yippeeeeee! (The winner had
removed most of his antennas)
This is as good a time as any to report that the Pre OSH picnic that I
proposed at MCW will not work this year. We have RAGBRAI (des moines
Register's Annual Bike Ride Across Iowa) here the nite we would need to do
it. There will be 20,000 drunken bike riders here that nite! The last
thing we need is aviators in that mix. However, after seeing the success
of the Redwing Race, I'll try next yr, the Tues before OSH Kosh to have a
pig roast, and a short race Then a group flight to OSH!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
Well folks, I just made my first major mistake on my RV-8 kit :(
I am putting the finishing touches to my wings while I await my fuselage
kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
wing.
This morning I was admiring the nicely fitted landing light and told myself
that I should be able to do even better on the left wing.
So I carefully cut-out the template, taped the template to my right wing,
measured everything THREE times, and proceeded to cut the opening with my
cut-off wheel. After that I meticulously finished the opening with a small
Scrothbrite wheel and a bit of sand-paper until it was as smooth as a baby's
bum. At his point I stepped back to admire my handy work and WHAMMM, it hit
me like a ton of bricks! I had cut the opening in the wrong bay! I cut it in
the second bay from the tip, instead of the last one. I don't know what I
was thinking (I guess I was NOT thinking). My two wings are sitting nose to
nose but are offset by about 1 foot, I think sub-consciously line the two
lights up.
At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous breakdown, or
just laugh at myself and live with it, or simply take the rivet gun to my
head and put myself out of my misery.
I guess it will be forever known as the cockeyed RV.
I have added a new rule-of-thumb to my repertoire to go along with "Measure
twice, cut once":
"Think twice before you measure".
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
sylvain(at)duford.com
http://www.duford.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice - Alternator Failure Today |
I have an RV6A 180HP Lycoming with constant speed prop and used the rebuilt
alternator Van sells. Today while I was flying, the alternator stopped
working ( it had only 130 hours on it ). We pulled it off the plane and
took it to an auto parts store, and when they ran it up, the guy said it was
producing off scale voltage readings and was not working properly. The
alternator Van sells is a rebuilt car alternator and it wasn't expensive so
I am not complaining about value. However, I would rather buy a new
alternator or pay more for a different kind so it will last longer. I have
read on the list how people have used other alternators that are high
quality and higher amperage, but they mention they have to add a bubble to
their cowl to get them to fit. Also some people have mentioned that the
other alternators interfere with the constant speed prop oil line. I would
prefer to find a quality unit the same size so I won't have to make any
modifications.
I do have cooling air tubes to the alternator, and am wondering if others
using the rebuilt alternator Van sells have had a longer life span than I
have, maybe mine was just a fluke. Does anybody know of an alternator model
that is the same size as vans 35 amp model, that might be of higher quality
or brand new instead of rebuilt.
Does anybody know the make and model of Vans rebuilt alternators, maybe I
could buy a new one and have better luck ?
Thanks in advance for advice:
Scott Johnson / Chicago scottj(at)ais.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a good source for scotch brite wheels.
Hello Jim;
I don't have scotch bright wheels that will fit a bench grinder, but I do have
3M
Scotch bright wheels that are about 4 times the volume of the ones others
mentioned for less money. My wheels are 12 inch diameter, 3 inches thick, BUT
with a 5 inch bore. I made a spindle and mounted it on a 1/2 HP motor and they
really work great. I have sold them to many people on the list. I have a sketch
of the spindle that I can send you as an attachment, but you will need a friend
with a machine shop to make it.
My 3M Scotch Bright wheels in the original box are 30 dollars plus freight. UPS
to WA state is 8 dollars. I will send it out the day I get the check and send
you the tracking number that evening so you can follow it across the country.
If you need additional info, please write me direct.
Thanks.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
snip...installed a Duckworks landing light...in the wrong bay!
At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous breakdown,
or...snip
Sounds like you have intentionally offset one light to take
advantage of a slightly different reflective angle, enhancing ground
operation. This is the story I would stick to. Next thing you know,
everyone will have the "Duford" landing light modification.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A N716RV (reserved)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MN RVator Forum - Race Today Was Fun ! |
I think the race was a lot of fun and was very well run today. Even though
I came in 8 out of 11, I look forward to doing it again. Next time, I am
going to :
1.) Take my antennas off too (hehehehehe).
2.) Lose 25 pounds.
3.) Get a slippery paint job.
4.) Tweak my constant speed governor.
5.) Straighten my wheel pants.
I was especially impressed with the safety precautions discussed. Having
everybody fly with full tanks was a very good idea, nobody would be tempted
to cut it close to lose weight. Hope we see more of these races in the
future.
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 1999 2:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: MN RVator Forum
>
>Just returned from the MN RVators forum. Great show! Many Thanks to the
>fine organizational skills of Doug Weiler and the MN RVator team .
>
>I did not count but I am guessing there were 40 to 50 RVs and a couple
>hundred people. The Race went off without a hitch. Brandon Mc Neilus won
>in a hopped up RV-4 with a hotrod O-360 in it. (some lowly warbird pilot
in
>a pink airplane got second place in the 320 heat, beat by a C/S prop with
>hi-dollar wheel pants)
>
>Bill Benedict had the -8A there. He told the secret of how copper wire was
>invented. ( two dutchmen fighting over a penny, one was a tall slender
>aviator name Van)
>
>Being disappointed about my second place finish in the race I went to St
>Paul after lunch and came back with the CAF B-25 and tried to run the race
>again...... No takers.......
>
>It was a great mission! The race was a big hit and I can see that this
sort
>of thing will quickly get out of hand!!!! Yippeeeeee! (The winner had
>removed most of his antennas)
>
>This is as good a time as any to report that the Pre OSH picnic that I
>proposed at MCW will not work this year. We have RAGBRAI (des moines
>Register's Annual Bike Ride Across Iowa) here the nite we would need to do
>it. There will be 20,000 drunken bike riders here that nite! The last
>thing we need is aviators in that mix. However, after seeing the success
>of the Redwing Race, I'll try next yr, the Tues before OSH Kosh to have a
>pig roast, and a short race Then a group flight to OSH!
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by Sylvian Duford
>At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous breakdown,
or
just laugh at myself and live with it, or simply take the rivet gun to my
head and put myself out of my misery.
I guess it will be forever known as the cockeyed RV.<
Put one more landing light in each wing to even things out. Tell everyone
that your eyes are getting old and you can't have too much light!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
If you hadn't told us about it I bet no one would have noticed (we're our own
worst ctitics!).
Doug Seward
-4 Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 HS Hinge Brackets |
In a message dated 4/24/99 2:20:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
P_Kumalae(at)email.msn.com writes:
> Rod......The bolts should not turn in the brackets. They will be tightened
> and the only thing that should turn is the rod end bearing. I fabricated
my
> brackets and they are ok....Phil in Charlotte, NC. Rv3 01028. Still a
> building.
Phil is correct. The bolts should not turn in the bracket. The bracket
should be clamping the rod end bearing. Alum, or steel, they are both RV-3
plan parts.
I didn't know RV-3's came with pre-drilled anything. Then again, RV-3's
didn't come as a kit, initially.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
SN 50 :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
Your question is an easy one. Two years ago I invented a retractable
sunshade that can be installed in most of the large bubble canopies. It
has an aluminum channel that is attached to the center of the canopy with
double stick tape on the single piece canopy, known as the tip-up type. No
holes are drilled. In the sliding type canopy the channel is attached to
the center of the canopy frame and is made so that there is a loss of about
1/2" of headroom on each model that I make. The size of the shade is 30"
wide by 25" long which seems to be large enough to have cover from the sun
and also see out. Total weight of the SunShade is between 8 and 9 oz.
The Koger SunShade is sold through Cleaveland Tool Co., Van's Aircraft and
I can get you one and provide information needed. I built the shades for
the RV series aircraft but they maybe found in many other types that have
the large canopies. This week an aircraft manufacture, that builds planes
in two different countries has inquired about the possibility of using the
shades in their planes instead of painting the canopies tops for some of
their customers have not wanted the painted area all the time. Pictures
and more information may be found on the "RV Journal" web site.
Ralph Koger
Flying N16RK RV6A since 95.
posted by: Hugh Roberton
>
>
>Hi there!
>
>Having done all my flying in Cessnas 172 and 182's and enjoyed the shade
of the high wing and a
>sunvisor on a hot day I can't help wondering how you get on in a bubble
canopy with the sun beating
>down on a long trip!
>
>--
>Hugh Roberton
>Melbourne
>Australia
>Dreaming about RV's.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hughes" <jhughes(at)netquest.net> |
Hi Sylvain,
On my RV-6 right wing I put a light in the first bay (Landing
angle) and also a light in the second bay (taxing angle) My left has one
light in the first bay(Landing angle). It's more money and time but this
may be a way to recover from the error if it's an RV-8 not 8A. do not
archive
John Hughes So Cal
RV-6 N164JH Working on the slider.
Gettin Closer!!
>
> >
> >Well folks, I just made my first major mistake on my RV-8 kit :(
> >
> >I am putting the finishing touches to my wings while I await my fuselage
> >kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
> >wing.
> >
> >This morning I was admiring the nicely fitted landing light and told
myself
> >that I should be able to do even better on the left wing.
> >
> >So I carefully cut-out the template, taped the template to my right
wing,
> >measured everything THREE times, and proceeded to cut the opening with
my
> >cut-off wheel. After that I meticulously finished the opening with a
small
> >Scrothbrite wheel and a bit of sand-paper until it was as smooth as a
baby's
> >bum. At his point I stepped back to admire my handy work and WHAMMM, it
hit
> >me like a ton of bricks! I had cut the opening in the wrong bay! I cut
it in
> >the second bay from the tip, instead of the last one. I don't know what
I
> >was thinking (I guess I was NOT thinking). My two wings are sitting nose
to
> >nose but are offset by about 1 foot, I think sub-consciously line the
two
> >lights up.
> >
> >At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous
breakdown, or
> >just laugh at myself and live with it, or simply take the rivet gun to
my
> >head and put myself out of my misery.
> >
> >I guess it will be forever known as the cockeyed RV.
> >
> >I have added a new rule-of-thumb to my repertoire to go along with
"Measure
> >twice, cut once":
> >"Think twice before you measure".
> >
> >Sylvain Duford
> >Bellevue, WA
> >sylvain(at)duford.com
> >http://www.duford.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | correction--Gretz Aero products on the WWW |
I made a mistake. The WWW site that has the Gretz Aero products on it
is: www.datawest.net/shine/gretz.html Sorry about the incorrect
address. If any of you would like further information on any of my RV
products, please contact me and I will mail to you by US Postal a
complete set of my flyers. Please provide me with your US Postal
address.
The products now include: Heated pitot tube mounting brackets, Heated
pitot tubes, ToolKey (a keyfob tool to open your gas caps), Alternative
mounting kit for MAC servo elevator trim, ELT's, Altitude encoders, GPS
antennas, and custom made to order RF cables with connectors.
Please contact me at:
Gretz Aero
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Here in Texas, Republic of Bubba, where the temperatures can be from
95 to 115 degrees F, greenhouse warming in the cockpit can be quite
extreme, even at relatively high altitudes. I am bald as a baby's
butt, so naturally I wear a baseball cap to keep my melon from getting
too ripe on the flight, and I also wear a larger size (i.e., loose
fitting) long sleeved white (or light colored) shirt to keep the sun
and ultraviolet rays off my arms and neck.
In the southern latitudes, you can sunburn quickly and severely even
under an overcast sky, and trust me, it is painful! I learned that
lesson in April of 1969 on my first trip to Galveston beaches after
moving my lily white butt from Flint, Michigan to the Houston area.
I got severely burned within 30 minutes on the beach under an overcast
sky! A lesson I never forgot.
Marshall Dues
RV-6 N243MD 207 hr
DWH (David Wayne Hooks airport)
NW Houston area
marty wrote:
>
>
> it can be quite uncomfortable at times. to help make sure you put in good
> ventilation , fly higher , wear a cap , fly early in the day or in the
> evening , you can buy some shaded sunscreens that stick inside the canopy by
> friction.
> the canopy can also be very enjoyable when it is cool and the sun keeps you
> very comfortable. and the visibility is marvelous..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>Your question is an easy one. Two years ago I invented a retractable
>sunshade that can be installed in most of the large bubble canopies
I was wondering when someone would mention the Koger sunshade in response to
this query. Turn's out it was Ralph K. himself!
This is a neat device, I have a buddy who's been flying with one in his
RV-6 and says it's a great solution to the RV "greenhouse effect." One
thing that I'd like to ask Ralph however (I'm sure you've been asked this
before but I will anyway) is, would it be possible to use a transluscent
material? As I recall the material used is opaque, can't see through it at
all. It would be nice to be able to see through it even if its fuzzy, to
check for traffic and all that (as long, of course, that it would still keep
the sun off!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> snip...installed a Duckworks landing light...in the wrong bay!
> At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous
> breakdown,
I refer to the earlier discussions about camera installations:
Cut another opening for the light where it should be, install a video
camera in the opening you cut "by mistake".
:)
"A true craftsman is known by how well he hides his mistakes"
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Wings - closing leading edges
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Today I figured out a deburring tool that may be helpful to a few.
I took a battery screw driver and put a small #2 combination center drill in it.
It works like a dream. The shank on the center drill was too small and not hex
shaped like a screw driver tip, but I added some black electric tap around the
shank to make it a closer fit. I then just taped around it and the socket part
of the screw driver. It works great, wobbles a bit but the holes are clean.. It
will save lots of time at debburring. I also have one with a three fluted
counter sink cutting tool. It too works great. It only takes about a couple of
seconds per hole using light pressure to remove the burrs.
The center drill has the small tip on it that acts like a pilot to help get it
in the hole.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Curved Cuts In Plexiglass Canopy |
> I have a crack in my RV-4 canopy situated low down near the rear
> passenger seat. As a potential repair scheme, I am thinking about
> cutting a small vent or window in the canopy
I would probably make a rough cut with a die grinder and fiberglass wheel,
and maybe cut the corners a little more closely to final shape with a dremel
tool/ fiberglass wheel. Then use a small drum sander attachment on the
dremel tool to round out the corners for final shape.
However if you have a router it might be easier to use that. I've never used
this method but know people who have cut their whole canopy with a router
with good success. As I recall they used a 1/8" laminate cutter bit. That
way you could cut the whole thing pretty close to shape right off the bat.
>I am aware of the
> potential to totally destroy the canopy if I goof.
Well sure, but that applies to building the canopy in the first place! I'm
sure you can make this work. I probably don't have to tell you (but will
anyway) to be sure to practice on some scrap first!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com.homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Anybody seen Mike Seager? |
I know he's probably giving lots of checkout rides on his way home from S&F
and I'm getting impatient. Be that as it may, have any of you folks seen
Mike and have an idea of when he's going to get back to Oregon? I just got
this -4 ready to fly and now the insurance company says 5 hours of dual in
type before solo! It was beautiful in the Northwest today. Do you realize
how often that happens around here?
MIKE ?!
(Contemplating a few hours of uninsured solo time here.)
Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com N6358G & N996RV
A ship in port is safe but that is not what ships are for..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Sylvain Duford wrote:
>
> So I carefully cut-out the template, taped the template to my right wing,
> measured everything THREE times, and proceeded to cut the opening with my
> cut-off wheel. After that I meticulously finished the opening with a small
> Scrothbrite wheel and a bit of sand-paper until it was as smooth as a baby's
> bum. At his point I stepped back to admire my handy work and WHAMMM, it hit
> me like a ton of bricks! I had cut the opening in the wrong bay! I cut it in
> the second bay from the tip, instead of the last one. I don't know what I
> was thinking (I guess I was NOT thinking). My two wings are sitting nose to
> nose but are offset by about 1 foot, I think sub-consciously line the two
> lights up.
>
Sylvain
Everybody is having fun at your expense but when all is said and done
just leave it. As soon as you start flying your airplane you will
forget all about those mistakes and blemishes that really bother
you now. I would bet that no one well ever notice it unless you
point it out.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 1st flight 7/11/89|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6. i did prime by brush on
bearing which could be my problem. any ideas?? or suggestions?? bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 HS Hinge Brackets |
LeastDrag(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/24/99 2:20:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> P_Kumalae(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> > Rod......The bolts should not turn in the brackets. They will be tightened
> > and the only thing that should turn is the rod end bearing. I fabricated
> my
> > brackets and they are ok....Phil in Charlotte, NC. Rv3 01028. Still a
> > building.
>
> Phil is correct. The bolts should not turn in the bracket. The bracket
> should be clamping the rod end bearing. Alum, or steel, they are both RV-3
> plan parts.
> I didn't know RV-3's came with pre-drilled anything. Then again, RV-3's
> didn't come as a kit, initially.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
> SN 50 :-)
>
My kit plans #11170 in 1990 came with the 1/8 angle also. I suggest you build
your other kit first, the 3 parts don't come together as easy as the other kits.
A lot of fitting and shimming is required to build a really good looking 3. Good
luck
Tom McIntyre
San Carlos, Cal
RV3 976TM, 978TM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Marshall M. Dues wrote:
>
> Here in Texas, Republic of Bubba, where the temperatures can be from
> 95 to 115 degrees F, greenhouse warming in the cockpit can be quite
> extreme, even at relatively high altitudes. I am bald as a baby's
> butt, so naturally I wear a baseball cap to keep my melon from getting
> too ripe on the flight, and I also wear a larger size (i.e., loose
> fitting) long sleeved white (or light colored) shirt to keep the sun
> and ultraviolet rays off my arms and neck.
>
> In the southern latitudes, you can sunburn quickly and severely even
> under an overcast sky, and trust me, it is painful! I learned that
> lesson in April of 1969 on my first trip to Galveston beaches after
> moving my lily white butt from Flint, Michigan to the Houston area.
> I got severely burned within 30 minutes on the beach under an overcast
> sky! A lesson I never forgot.
>
> Marshall Dues
> RV-6 N243MD 207 hr
> DWH (David Wayne Hooks airport)
> NW Houston area
>
> marty wrote:
> >
> >
> > it can be quite uncomfortable at times. to help make sure you put in good
> > ventilation , fly higher , wear a cap , fly early in the day or in the
> > evening , you can buy some shaded sunscreens that stick inside the canopy by
> > friction.
> > the canopy can also be very enjoyable when it is cool and the sun keeps you
> > very comfortable. and the visibility is marvelous..
> >
>
Hey guys am I missing something here? How does flying higher help to fight off
sun burn? Aren't you closer to the sun and in most cases in less poluted air?
Confused
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <srduford(at)uswest.net> |
Thanks all for the cheerful replies, made me feel better.
I like John's idea of putting in a third light for taxi.
Sylvain
>
> Hi Sylvain,
> On my RV-6 right wing I put a light in the first bay (Landing
> angle) and also a light in the second bay (taxing angle) My left has one
> light in the first bay(Landing angle). It's more money and time but this
> may be a way to recover from the error if it's an RV-8 not 8A. do not
> archive
> John Hughes So Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
| Subject: | Motivational flight.... |
Today I was treated to a great flight in Jerry Springer's beautiful
RV6. It's not often that the Hillsboro ATIS says "winds calm" at noon
on a warm day, but today it did. Not a cloud to be seen, even from the
air. At 4000 feet, the world stood still at 180 mph. Not a bump to be
found! These airplanes fly like there is a mechanical link between the
stick and some kind of mechanism that banks and pitches the plane. All
it takes is a little pressure on the stick and the plane is there....
No rental-Cessna-like slop in the controls, just a very progressive,
solid control feel and minimal stick effort required. Once we got to
altitude and Jerry trimmed the plane for level flight, it never even
hinted at a deviation in altitude. It took about 30 degrees angle of
bank before any back-stick was required to maintain altitude, and all it
took was a little pressure back on the stick. I kept finding myself
pulling back too much and climbing. What a NEAT airplane!!
When coming in to land, it was really wierd because I'm used to flying a
Cessna 150 that slows from 100-105 mph to 70 or so on final. In the RV
we kept slowing and slowing and slowing, from 180 mph down to 70 or so.
I kept looking at Jerry's ASI out of habit when I feel the plane
slowing, and it still read over 90 until short final - a wierd
sensation, and one I can't wait to get used to.
I originally wanted to get a quick ride to help make up my mind whether
to build a -6 or a -6A. I had flown in Van's -6A (2 years ago), but had
never flown in a -6. I want to build a -6 because I like the way they
look, but wanted to try out the taildragger before commiting to buy the
fuselage kit for one. I asked Jerry and he said "Sure!" without
hesitation. Well I assure you a -6 kit will go on order soon.....
Thank you very much, Jerry!
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Flaps/Ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet question |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
> i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
> according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
> experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
> the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
> ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
> long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6.
Bob, I've seen you refer to the Bunny's Guide
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm> before, so I've got to assume
you missed this particular section. Like you, I was *really* annoyed
that the first parts I'd rivetted together needed to be drilled apart
and re-done.
In many situations, Vans is just a smidgen optimistic about rivet
lengths... always check with a rivet guage before driving.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
While still learning to rivet, the bucking bar was dropped several times
inside the leading edge of the wing. It left a noticable bents. The lights
will be put in the bays which hide the most bents. Of course, the worst
bays in each wing is different.
I bet yours is not the only cockeyed RV.
Tom
P.S. Still learing to rivet, fuselage out of jig.
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
<<kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
>wing.>>>
All is not lost. Install another light in the outboard bay, in the landing
light configuration and fit a "Star" wig wag flasher unit. The unit in the
second bay becomes the taxi light. Viola!! the, Duford lighting system!!
Cheers, and keep smiling
Ken (Star Wig Wag flasher on order) Glover Newcastle Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody seen Mike Seager? |
>
>I just got
>this -4 ready to fly and now the insurance company says 5 hours of dual in
>type before solo
>
>(Contemplating a few hours of uninsured solo time here.)
>
I don't want to throw water on your plan, but if your underwriter wants 5
hrs of dual, 5 hrs solo won't suffice. If you skip the dual and fly it 100
hrs and then have a problem. The company could deny your claim. If you do
decide to fly it, make sure you get the dual later. Your policy won't be in
force until you do. Other wise save your premium$$....
Tailwinds, -4 N240
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
just an idea to pass on re: landing lights in rv's
a very nice looking , effective light kit to install is the one they use in
glasair's
it fits into the lower cowl , the parts are all supplied in the kit , i
forget the price but i think it was about 45-50 dollars.
it is very easy and quick to install . i have used these a few times and
think they are easier than the wing installations .
just another option to consider.......marty sarasota
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 04/24/1999 11:09:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< It is early on for me but sooner or later I'll have the same Colorado
state sales tax issue. >>
I really think the smart thing to do on sales tax in any state is to pay the
taxes upon receipt of the first major kit. Once this is done you have the
documentation that the "taxes" are paid.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n(44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CA use taxes being collected |
Here in Illinois, we have the same thing. Each tax payer is to pay the
difference between the tax that was paid (out of state) and that which would
have been collected had the purchase been made in Illinois. The form ST-44
can be obtained by calling the state or downloaded from
. Everyone is supposed to "just know" to do this.
However, I heard of some cases where people payed up once they found they
should have been doing it. Also, In my state, this doesn't apply to
merchandise bought second hand from a private party.
Tom Barnes -6 looking for second hand engine from Van.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: CA use taxes being collected
>
>Well, gang, we knew a Democratic governor was going to go for our wallets
and
>now I have been the recipient of the first salvo. All CA residents with
>newly flying planes should be prepared.
>
>Today I received a notice from the state board of equalization claiming I
owe
>the state 8.25% of the cost of building my RV-6A as a use tax just for the
>privilege of flying it in the golden state. They require documented proof
of
>the claimed total purchase price. I bought my kit and engine out of state
>because there was no company in California that had a kit that I liked and
>Van's doesn't have a retail outlet in CA, so why do I have to pay this?
>
>What should my response to them be? Who knows the details of this part of
>the California tax law? I would appreciate any constructive comments
and/or
>observations.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
There is a chance this may improve your stall characteristics.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Duford <srduford(at)uswest.net>
Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 8:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Big Mistake
>
>Well folks, I just made my first major mistake on my RV-8 kit :(
>
>I am putting the finishing touches to my wings while I await my fuselage
>kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
>wing.
>
>This morning I was admiring the nicely fitted landing light and told myself
>that I should be able to do even better on the left wing.
>
>So I carefully cut-out the template, taped the template to my right wing,
>measured everything THREE times, and proceeded to cut the opening with my
>cut-off wheel. After that I meticulously finished the opening with a small
>Scrothbrite wheel and a bit of sand-paper until it was as smooth as a
baby's
>bum. At his point I stepped back to admire my handy work and WHAMMM, it hit
>me like a ton of bricks! I had cut the opening in the wrong bay! I cut it
in
>the second bay from the tip, instead of the last one. I don't know what I
>was thinking (I guess I was NOT thinking). My two wings are sitting nose to
>nose but are offset by about 1 foot, I think sub-consciously line the two
>lights up.
>
>At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous breakdown,
or
>just laugh at myself and live with it, or simply take the rivet gun to my
>head and put myself out of my misery.
>
>I guess it will be forever known as the cockeyed RV.
>
>I have added a new rule-of-thumb to my repertoire to go along with "Measure
>twice, cut once":
>"Think twice before you measure".
>
>Sylvain Duford
>Bellevue, WA
>sylvain(at)duford.com
>http://www.duford.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James A. Tillman" <till3(at)email.msn.com> |
howdy, does anyone out there have sales tax information for georgia?
jim tillman/chris landry
rv8 80655, n655cl reserved
finishing wings, fuselage on order
-----Original Message-----
From: DFaile(at)aol.com <DFaile(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 1999 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sales Tax
>
>In a message dated 04/24/1999 11:09:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
><< It is early on for me but sooner or later I'll have the same Colorado
> state sales tax issue. >>
>
>I really think the smart thing to do on sales tax in any state is to pay
the
>taxes upon receipt of the first major kit. Once this is done you have the
>documentation that the "taxes" are paid.
>
>david faile, fairfield, ct
>mcfii/a&p
>faa aviation safety counselor
>eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
>christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
>rv6 n(44df) started
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet question |
I think the engineers take into consideration the type of forces acting on
the items being assembled. IMO you have an option of going with the specs
or going according to the one and a half rule.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 1999 12:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: rivet question
>
>i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
>according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
>experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
>the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
>ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
>long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6. i did prime by brush on
>bearing which could be my problem. any ideas?? or suggestions?? bob in
>arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet question |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
>
> i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
> according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
> experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
> the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
> ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
> long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6. i did prime by brush on
> bearing which could be my problem. any ideas?? or suggestions?? bob in
> arkansas
>
Bob,
Get one of Avery's rivet length guages and use it religiously. Use the
rivet length specs on the plans as a starting point for rivet length.
Try the rivet length that is called out and measure it with the guage
and then adjust the length accordingly. You might as well get the shop
head guages too. Just be sure to remember that the rivet length on
426's is measured a little differently than on 470's!
Jerry "drilled out my fair share of rivets" Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aerobudtp(at)aol.com |
Avery Tools Catalog page 38
Tim Wis. Starting wing kit for rv6
P. S. Thanks again to Mark Neilson of G. B. for my first ride in a rv6. I
know I picked the right one to build!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmjordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
When I was installing my static ports late one night, I drilled a nice big
1/2 in hole and four surrounding rivet holes and proceeded to mount my
static port on the left side. When I stepped back to admire my work, I had
that same sudden rush as I noticed that the port was now positioned right
over the trailing edge of the wing, one bulkhead forward from the location
called out in the plans and instructions. I debated leaving it, filling it
with bondo, crying, taking up sailing and a number of other less positive
responses. However, after several weeks of not looking at the left side of
my plane, a thread on the list about flap position indicators started.
Someone mentioned installing a light to illuminate the flap for night time
visual check of position, and suddenly I found the brilliant forethought of
my actions!
Now, should I make the light turn on automatically when the flaps are
lowered, or should I install a seperate switch.
You'll work it out, don't let it get you down too badly.
Best Regards,
Mel Jordan N6JX (Resreved)
Tucson, AZ
RV6A QB finish kit on order
>
>I refer to the earlier discussions about camera installations:
>Cut another opening for the light where it should be, install a video
>camera in the opening you cut "by mistake".
>:)
>
>"A true craftsman is known by how well he hides his mistakes"
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>N140RV (Reserved)
>Wings - closing leading edges
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet question |
Bob,
The often quoted rivet shop head pass-fail criteria of 1.5 times the
rivet diameter for the minimum head diameter, and 0.5 for the minimum
height is a very conservative rough guide. There is a MIL SPEC that
gives more exact numbers. MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck Type,
Preparation for and Installation of" is available at
<http://www.flash.net/~gila/> thanks to Gil Alexander.
For 1/8 rivets, the minimum shop head diameter is 0.163 and the
minimum head height is 0.050. Both these values are quite a bit less
than the oft quoted 1.5D and 0.5D.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
>
>i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
>according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
>experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
>the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
>ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
>long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6. i did prime by brush on
>bearing which could be my problem. any ideas?? or suggestions?? bob in
>arkansas
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
I found a core O-320 out of an airboat. It is a wide deck O-320-E2H. I
plan on tearing it down and massaging the internals myself if I buy it.
The 150 hp rating is a moot point as I will be cranking the compression
up during overhaul. The only thing that really bothers me is the fixed
pitch only design. I basically have two questions for all in
cyber-land:
1 - Is an airboat engine a good choice to install in an airplane? After
years of operation in close proximity to water and humidity will it be
irrepairably damaged in any way?
2 - What parts must be exchanged to make it C/S prop compatible?
Obviously the crank will need to go, but what about accessory case, etc?
Any thoughts good and bad would be much appreciated.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Flaps/Ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Universal Crimper |
Is there a universal crimper out there that will not cost a fortune that
will crimp terminals, fast-on, butt splices, etc? I bought the one from
Cleveland, and it seems that it will only crimp terminals.
thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Universal Crimper |
Paul,
IM not sure what size wire your crimping, but T@B ( thomas and Bets ) make
one that works really well with building wire. #12 or14 or #16 . Thee make
two types. One pair is thin and are also strippers and the other is more like
pliers and worksreally well.
Ken
RV-6 awaiting empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Universal Crimper |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Is there a universal crimper out there that will not cost a fortune that
> will crimp terminals, fast-on, butt splices, etc? I bought the one from
> Cleveland, and it seems that it will only crimp terminals.
>
> thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall(at)blacksburg.net> |
| Subject: | Bill Boyd's RV-6A |
I happened to be at the airport (BCB) this afternoon to take a friend's
daughter for a Young Eagle flight. As I looked out over the ramp, lo and
behold - there was a **beautiful** -6A! Of course I had to make a fool of
myself by hollering for the owner. Bill Boyd (from up the Shenandoah
Valley) answered that it was his. I recognized his name from this list, so
we were instant friends (or at least he was my instant friend - as would be
any RV driver :-) ). So we chatted for a few minutes, then I went to drool
over his plane. A **beautiful** piece of workmanship. All the fairings
fit very nicely, beautiful paint job, terrific rivet job, the list goes on.
He has a fine plane.
Now, having raved about his fine craftsmanship, I have to say that this was
the first time I've ever seen a real honest to God RV! I'm still in the
wannabe mode, but he sure got my juices flowing. I was so enthralled with
seeing his plane I forgot to ask for a ride the next time he's down our
way. So Bill, the next time you're out for a $100 hamburger, I'm buying if
I can hitch a ride for a bit. But in any case, you have a mighty fine plane!
Jim "Geez I gotta get started building" Hassall
J.C. Hassall
jhassall(at)blacksburg.net
RV-6 Builder Wannabe
Blacksburg VA
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking." -- J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody seen Mike Seager? |
Oh, yeah, I was just thinking of keeping myself busy until he got home to
do the formalities.
McGee
>I don't want to throw water on your plan, but if your underwriter wants 5
>hrs of dual, 5 hrs solo won't suffice. If you skip the dual and fly it 100
>hrs and then have a problem. The company could deny your claim. If you do
>decide to fly it, make sure you get the dual later. Your policy won't be in
>force until you do. Other wise save your premium$$....
>
>Tailwinds, -4 N240
>Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airboat engine |
If your cores are good and you don't have to replace the crank, before you
swap it so you can do a constant speed, take a look at this:
> Aero Trading, Ironwood Office Park. 5215 N Ironwood Rd,
> Suite 200, Glendale, WI 53217, USA
>
> Visit our Web Site: http://www.Propellor.com
>
I got this from the AirCraft Rotary Engine newsletter. Go to that web site
and read up on it, to me it sounds like the ticket for us with a solid
crank. The full up price that I got from their marketing guy for an O-320
was:
>Our AP-506 prop, complete with blades, will cost you US$5,750. If you
require >the Automatic Controller and a 12" Spinner, you'll be looking at
an extra >$1,000.
This prop is supposed to be good for 180hp Lyc's. Not cheap but cheaper
than reworking the engine to accept a constant speed. Van's catalog shows
$5600 (4400 and 1200) for a prop and governor. I know I could whip up a
controller that would do the same as theirs for way less than a grand and
probably a couple dozen hours. It's simply a DC FullVoltageReversing motor
in the prop and the controller isnt much more than a PID with some
selectable pre-programmed parameters.
I don't know that we might not all get together and have a little leverage
on buying a batch of these. They haven't been out long but so far they are
looking good. ( Yeah, I know, I know..) Of course the web page is a
glowing tribute, but we need to find people that are running this system to
see how it's really doing.
McGee N996RV
(New owner. GOD I like putting that number after my name! Oh yeah..)
>
>up during overhaul. The only thing that really bothers me is the fixed
>pitch only design. I basically have two questions for all in
>cyber-land:
>
>2 - What parts must be exchanged to make it C/S prop compatible?
>Obviously the crank will need to go, but what about accessory case, etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Denny" <prvdenny(at)powerup.com.au> |
Ken, Can you email me information on the "Wig Wag Flasher please.
Peter Denny, Brisbane Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Glover <kage(at)idl.net.au>
Date: Sunday, 25 April 1999 10:51
Subject: Re: RV-List: Big Mistake
>
>
><<>kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
>>wing.>>>
>
>All is not lost. Install another light in the outboard bay, in the landing
>light configuration and fit a "Star" wig wag flasher unit. The unit in the
>second bay becomes the taxi light. Viola!! the, Duford lighting system!!
>
>Cheers, and keep smiling
>Ken (Star Wig Wag flasher on order) Glover Newcastle Oz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
i am doin it the 3 step method (acid etch, alodine, epox. prime) and
found that i have a scratch or two here and there. need recommedations
for just a touch up EFFECTIVE primer. thanx, bob, btw, u guys were
correct, this method (3 step) is a bunch of work.:(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dual LE lighting on one wing |
Guess what? Today I drove past an Antonov AN-2 (AH-2 in Cyrillic?)
taildragger biplane at LVK. In the leading edge of the left wing it has two
lighting fixtures, one in the most outboard bay and one in the next bay in.
The right wing just has one in the most outboard bay. The outboard fixtures
are apparently the landing lights and the inside one on the left is the taxi
light.
This is the best proof yet that you didn't make a mistake, but you need to
make sure that your bird is a taildragger or the argument strains credibility.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 04/24/99 |
I will be ordering the RV6 empennage kit soon and wonder what paperwork or filing
I
need to do with the FAA. Also is the beginning RV tool kit that Avery sells adequate
for the empennage?
Do I need a band saw, power sander, drill press? Is a 3 by 6 foot work table next
to and 90 deg.in
relation to the jig adequate? Any advice welcome.
Dave Ford
dford(at)michweb.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
btw, these pieces r steel and alum. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: touch-up primer |
I don't want to turn this into another priming thread, but the best advice I
can give is use Sherwin Williams 988 in the spray can. I have done this on
my entire kit, and you can easily touch it up with the spay can.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 3:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: touch-up primer
>
>i am doin it the 3 step method (acid etch, alodine, epox. prime) and
>found that i have a scratch or two here and there. need recommedations
>for just a touch up EFFECTIVE primer. thanx, bob, btw, u guys were
>correct, this method (3 step) is a bunch of work.:(
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Flasher |
Check Sam Buchanan's site on this. He has part numbers and all!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Denny <prvdenny(at)powerup.com.au>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Big Mistake
>
>Ken, Can you email me information on the "Wig Wag Flasher please.
>Peter Denny, Brisbane Australia.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ken Glover <kage(at)idl.net.au>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, 25 April 1999 10:51
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Big Mistake
>
>
>>
>>
>><<>>kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
>>>wing.>>>
>>
>>All is not lost. Install another light in the outboard bay, in the landing
>>light configuration and fit a "Star" wig wag flasher unit. The unit in the
>>second bay becomes the taxi light. Viola!! the, Duford lighting system!!
>>
>>Cheers, and keep smiling
>>Ken (Star Wig Wag flasher on order) Glover Newcastle Oz
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Dumbrell <andrew(at)techpls.com> |
Still looking for an RV6/6a of my own. Would like C/S 180Hp with cross
country electronics. (COM/NAV, GPS etc). I am in Phoenix and will travel to
the western US to view the right RV.
Thanks
Andrew
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Universal Crimper |
Paul,
I failed to mention that T@B crimpers can be purchased in any electrical
supply store.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airboat engine |
In a message dated 4/25/99 1:02:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM writes:
<< 1 - Is an airboat engine a good choice to install in an airplane? After
years of operation in close proximity to water and humidity will it be
irreparably damaged in any way? >>
If you are going to tear it down it doesn't matter where it was used, all
damage/problems will become evident when you do so. The only thing you can't
fix while it's down is corrosion/spalling , out of tolerance cases etc.. I
wouldn't hesitate to buy it after a thorough visual inspection of the
outside, if the price was right.
...but then again I would put a Chevy in an RV...
Regards, Merle (the lurker)
RV-4 4.3 Chevy flyin' in ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 04/24/99 |
Let me take a stab at this since I've been out of the loop while getting my
new shop in place.
I know of no FAA paperwork you need at this time or any time soon (or is
there something I'm missing here too?). Just remember to take photos and/or
keep a log of your work at this stage.
You will need at least the full RV tool kit from Avery (not just the intro
kit), and even that won't be enough. There always seems to be a tool that's
better for a particular task. My approach is to use the most cost-effective
means to do the job as well as I can, which sometimes means forking out the
dough for a particular tool. Plan to spend 2-3 times the cost of the
empennage kit in tools, but you will use them through the entire kit.
Along that line, a band saw, power sander, and drill press are all tools
that failed to pass my "when-to-spend-money-on-tools" test, at least so far.
Since all the lightening holes are pre-drilled in the empennage kit, I have
been able to get away with hand tools for all these purposes so far,
although there is a time penalty. The one power tool I wouldn't go without
is a bench grinder with a $42 Scotchbrite wheel we've all been reading about
this weekend.
Your bench set up sounds fine, but like tools, it's never as much as you
would really like. It will be easier if you have a bench top that you can
drill into and replace as necessary.
There's lots in the archives on all this stuff.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A, building a new shop while waiting on the wing kit (early June)
Pittsburgh, PA
>
> I will be ordering the RV6 empennage kit soon and wonder what paperwork or
> filing I
> need to do with the FAA. Also is the beginning RV tool kit that Avery
> sells adequate for the empennage?
> Do I need a band saw, power sander, drill press? Is a 3 by 6 foot work
> table next to and 90 deg.in
> relation to the jig adequate? Any advice welcome.
>
> Dave Ford
> dford(at)michweb.net
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Hey, you only see one wing at a time up close. When the lights are ON, in
the dark, nobody'll be the wiser....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sylvain Duford [SMTP:srduford(at)uswest.net]
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 8:43 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Big Mistake
>
>
> Well folks, I just made my first major mistake on my RV-8 kit :(
>
> I am putting the finishing touches to my wings while I await my fuselage
> kit. Last week I successfully installed a Duckworks landing in the right
> wing.
>
> This morning I was admiring the nicely fitted landing light and told
> myself
> that I should be able to do even better on the left wing.
>
> So I carefully cut-out the template, taped the template to my right wing,
> measured everything THREE times, and proceeded to cut the opening with my
> cut-off wheel. After that I meticulously finished the opening with a small
> Scrothbrite wheel and a bit of sand-paper until it was as smooth as a
> baby's
> bum. At his point I stepped back to admire my handy work and WHAMMM, it
> hit
> me like a ton of bricks! I had cut the opening in the wrong bay! I cut it
> in
> the second bay from the tip, instead of the last one. I don't know what I
> was thinking (I guess I was NOT thinking). My two wings are sitting nose
> to
> nose but are offset by about 1 foot, I think sub-consciously line the two
> lights up.
>
> At this point I am not sure if I should cry and have a nervous breakdown,
> or
> just laugh at myself and live with it, or simply take the rivet gun to my
> head and put myself out of my misery.
>
> I guess it will be forever known as the cockeyed RV.
>
> I have added a new rule-of-thumb to my repertoire to go along with
> "Measure
> twice, cut once":
> "Think twice before you measure".
>
> Sylvain Duford
> Bellevue, WA
> sylvain(at)duford.com
> http://www.duford.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Since United eventually built that base here in Indy, I wonder if the
Indiana legislature passed a similar measure? Anyone know?
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
>
>Regarding sales tax on home built aircraft in Colorado: A few years ago
>Colorado was attempting to lure United Airlines here to build their large
>overhaul/maintenance base. In order to "sweeten the pot" the state
>legislature specifically EXEMPTED sales taxes on aircraft parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities Rv Forum report (long) |
Fellow Listers:
Thought I'd give you a brief report on the RV Forum held Saturday in Red
Wing, MN. First of all the biggest gamble was overcome with an excellent
day of clear skies, no wind, and balmy (at least for MN) temps of 60 degrees
plus. The challenge was to keep the crowd in the hangar for the forum
speakers because the weather outside was so beautiful.
We had 29 RVs in attendance and 30-40 other airplanes on the field. Our
race meister Tom Berge pulled off the first Twin Cities RV Air Race without
a hitch. 11 RVs ran the course flat out (99 nm) from Red Wing to Winona, MN
to Durand, WI and back. Two awards were presented for the fastest 0-360
and 0-320 powered machines. Winners were Brandon McNeilus (183.5 kts) in
his 180hp+ RV-4 and Terry Stern (169.2 kts) in his 160 hp RV-4 (I knew these
RV-4s were fast!!).
We gave away a RV-6 vertical stab as our grand prize and Lyle Hefel won the
best of show for the most beautiful RV-8 in the known universe (at least I
got to sit in it and lust in my heart).
The only rub in the day was a forced landing by Dick Pearson of Sioux Falls,
SD. 13 miles west of Red Wing inbound his engine totally seized on his
RV-6A. We all listened breathless on the radio as he calmly announced he's
landing on a country road. Swung in under some power lines, touched down,
rolled out and up the driveway of a farm and pulled to a stop in the front
of the house (Dick is one of the Vanguards RV-3 acro team so this was a
piece of cake). No harm done (except his girlfriend who was with him... her
second airplane ride.. decided to return to FSD via the airlines). It was a
Dick Waters engine with only 60 hours total time.. crankshaft locked in
place). Farmer agreed to store it in his barn. A textbook forced landing.
Bill Benedict was there giving RV-8A rides, Jerry Van Grunsven gave a talk
to a packed assembly, and George Orndorff entertained us with his flying
adventures at the evening banquet. We even had a B-25 and a L-29 jet
buzzing around with the RVs. What a great day.
Thanks to everyone who help me with this event,
We'll be back next year. Hope you all can come!!
Doug Weiler.
pres MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Registration Paperwork |
I'm getting ready to send in my registration paperwork to the FAA. As part
of the package, there is a requirement for a kit-built airplane to supply
(and I'm trying to remember the exact language) a receipt signed in ink from
the kit manufacturer from whom you purchased the kit. I don't have any such
receipt and I didn't save my bills of lading once I inventoried my kits.
What have others builders attached to their registration paperwork to
fulfill this requirement? Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
________________________________________________________________________________
Having finished my RV-8, I would like to say that two of my most-used
tools(besides the cordless drill) were the table top bandsaw and the
dremel tool. Just a cheap $100 table top bandsaw worked great for me, be
sure to use a medium tooth wood cutting blade. The coarse wood cutting
blade moves faster through the material, but on smaller pieces it tends
to 'grab'. The dremel tool with the little cutoff blades gives you
precision you can never get with the standard die-grinder/3" cutoff wheel
setup. You only get around 12" of cutting per wheel on the dremel before
you have to replace the wheel itself, but it is worth it. The other thing
that worked great for me, and I had mentioned it some time ago to the
list , is to use the banquet tables from Costco for workbenches. I bought
4 of these @ $39 when I started the project, and recently sold them at
garage sale for $20 each. What I did was take a 4x4 post, cut eight
pieces each 6" long, auger 1 1/4" holes about 2" deep, one on the end,
and one on the side of each piece. This allowed me to take two tables
and use them in any of 3 different heights, depending on what I am
working on, by putting the blocks under the legs. The holes keep the
table legs from slipping off the blocks. You will still need a small
sturdy workbench to mount your vise onto. Try it, you'll like it!
Von Alexander
RV-8 0-360 CS prop
14 hours
Salem, Oregon
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Airmaster Prop (was Airboat engine) |
I checked-out the web site for this prop (www.Propellor.com) and it sure
"sounds" good. Anybody have any real world experience with this prop?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on the list. I have sold my empenage
kit
and I am very sorry to say that I will not pursue the RV-6a project anymore
due to
health problems. You folks have been great!!!!!!!
Thanks
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
www.neatcars.com
----------
>From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv Forum report (long)
>Date: Mon, Apr 26, 1999, 6:45 AM
>
>piece of cake). No harm done (except his girlfriend who was with him... her
>second airplane ride.. decided to return to FSD via the airlines). It was a
>Dick Waters engine with only 60 hours total time.. crankshaft locked in
>place). Farmer agreed to store it in his barn. A textbook forced landing.
I think someone was inquiring about Dick Waters engines a while back. I
wonder what or if Mr. Waters will be helping this fellow out with his
engine?
When I was looking for my engine several people including from Van's
discouraged me from getting one from him.
Shelby in Nashville
Skinning Fuselage.
RV6A - N95EB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Registration Paperwork |
Just call Van's. They will supply a signed Kit bill of sale
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
> I'm getting ready to send in my registration paperwork to the FAA. As part
> of the package, there is a requirement for a kit-built airplane to supply
> (and I'm trying to remember the exact language) a receipt signed in ink from
> the kit manufacturer from whom you purchased the kit. I don't have any such
> receipt and I didn't save my bills of lading once I inventoried my kits.
> What have others builders attached to their registration paperwork to
> fulfill this requirement? Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/25/99 21:50:43, Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
<>
Why would anyone be building their own airplane if they weren't willing to
strain credibility once in a while??
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters |
Listers,
I have a Dick Water's engine with almost 1300 trouble free hours. From my
experience with him, I'm sure he will stand behind his work and product.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shelby Smith [SMTP:shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 11:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters
>
>
>
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> www.neatcars.com
>
> ----------
> >From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv Forum report (long)
> >Date: Mon, Apr 26, 1999, 6:45 AM
> >
>
> >piece of cake). No harm done (except his girlfriend who was with him...
> her
> >second airplane ride.. decided to return to FSD via the airlines). It
> was a
> >Dick Waters engine with only 60 hours total time.. crankshaft locked in
> >place). Farmer agreed to store it in his barn. A textbook forced
> landing.
>
> I think someone was inquiring about Dick Waters engines a while back. I
> wonder what or if Mr. Waters will be helping this fellow out with his
> engine?
>
> When I was looking for my engine several people including from Van's
> discouraged me from getting one from him.
>
> Shelby in Nashville
> Skinning Fuselage.
> RV6A - N95EB
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters |
Shelby,
I called Dick Waters today, and he is aware of Dick Pearson's engine
failure. Dick Pearson had called him this morning. Apparently the
failure was due to an oil line failure. Dick Waters asked him to box
up the engine and sending it back to him, which is being done.
Regarding questions about Dick's engines. I had talked to a couple of
people who said that they had heard of a couple of people who had a
problem with Dick Water's engines, but could not remember their names.
You may want to see my saga (about a month ago - Parts 1 &2) about
finding a good engine. I my engine from Dick Waters based on the
reasons and research outlined in my posting. I expect to have (Part 3
- The Purchase) on the list this week.
If Dick Pearson is on the "List", he may want to elaborate.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (IO-360) awaiting QB
Niantic, CT
**************************************
>From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters
>Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:12:03 -0600
>
>
>
>Shelby Smith
>shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
>www.neatcars.com
>
>----------
>>From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
>>To: "RV List"
>>Subject: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv Forum report (long)
>>Date: Mon, Apr 26, 1999, 6:45 AM
>>
>
>>piece of cake). No harm done (except his girlfriend who was with
him... her
>>second airplane ride.. decided to return to FSD via the airlines).
It was a
>>Dick Waters engine with only 60 hours total time.. crankshaft locked
in
>>place). Farmer agreed to store it in his barn. A textbook forced
landing.
>
>I think someone was inquiring about Dick Waters engines a while back.
I
>wonder what or if Mr. Waters will be helping this fellow out with his
>engine?
>
>When I was looking for my engine several people including from Van's
>discouraged me from getting one from him.
>
>Shelby in Nashville
>Skinning Fuselage.
>RV6A - N95EB
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Universal Crimper |
>> Is there a universal crimper out there that will not cost a fortune that
>> will crimp terminals, fast-on, butt splices, etc? I bought the one from
>> Cleveland, and it seems that it will only crimp terminals.
>>
I've offered to take a look at Paul's tool to see if we can
tell why he's having trouble with it. The tool we sell is sized
for all of the PIDG (aircraft/mil-spec) style terminals whether
ring-terminal, butt-splice, or fast-on style termials . . .it
shouldn't make any difference.
Paul, do ALL of your terminals and splices have metal liners
inside the plastic insulation grip portion of the terminal?
This is the feature of PIDG style terminals that makes them
easy to identify.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery contactor temperature |
>During a tech counselor inspection, we discovered that my battery contactor
>felt pretty warm when its master switch was on (engine not running - don't
>have one yet). I later measured it at 135 F, regardless of load on the
>battery. After moving the battery to the other contactor, it also measured
>135 F after being on for about 10 minutes. (I have dual batteries,
>contactors, and master switches.) These contactors are Stancor 70-914, with
>nominal coil resistance of 16 ohms at 12 volts, rated at 80 amps continuous.
>Voltage measurements across the contactor coil, master switch, and wiring
>indicate there's about 0.8 amps flowing, which is about what I think it
>should be.
>
>So my questions are: 1) Has anybody else measured contactor temperature?
>and, 2) Should I be worried about this?
A battery contactor is a continuous duty rated device and as you
have observed, dwill draw about .8 amps at 14 v which translates
to something on the order of 10 watts. It is NORMAL for all devices
of this class to run warm. Starter contactors will draw about
4 amps or 50 WATTS which would make them toast in a vew minutes.
This is why they are INTERMITTANT rated devices.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Alternator Failure Today |
However, I would rather buy a new
>alternator or pay more for a different kind so it will last longer. I have
>read on the list how people have used other alternators that are high
>quality and higher amperage, but they mention they have to add a bubble to
>their cowl to get them to fit. Also some people have mentioned that the
>other alternators interfere with the constant speed prop oil line. I would
>prefer to find a quality unit the same size so I won't have to make any
>modifications.
>
>I do have cooling air tubes to the alternator, and am wondering if others
>using the rebuilt alternator Van sells have had a longer life span than I
>have, maybe mine was just a fluke. Does anybody know of an alternator model
>that is the same size as vans 35 amp model, that might be of higher quality
>or brand new instead of rebuilt.
>
>Does anybody know the make and model of Vans rebuilt alternators, maybe I
>could buy a new one and have better luck ?
>
In about 7 years of sales and over 1,000 units in service
the B&C alternators have yet to produce a wearout or defect
failure . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire |
<< How do I go about grounding the braid on "shielded wire"? >>
Try this old trick a Boeing tech showed me about 35 years
ago while I was hammering on a B-52 . . .
Strip away the outer jacket to expose the braid underneath.
Bunch the braid up slightly and use an awl to open a pathway
in the side of the braid close to the end of the outer jacket.
Bend the wire/braid over 180 degrees and pull the center
conductor out of the open hole.
Tug the braid out straight to close the hole. Now you have
two leads which may be terminated as needed.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
----------
>From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters
>Date: Mon, Apr 26, 1999, 11:27 AM
>
>Shelby,
>
>I called Dick Waters today, and he is aware of Dick Pearson's engine
>failure. Dick Pearson had called him this morning. Apparently the
>failure was due to an oil line failure. Dick Waters asked him to box
>up the engine and sending it back to him, which is being done.
>
>Regarding questions about Dick's engines. I had talked to a couple of
>people who said that they had heard of a couple of people who had a
>problem with Dick Water's engines, but could not remember their names.
>You may want to see my saga (about a month ago - Parts 1 &2) about
>finding a good engine. I my engine from Dick Waters based on the
>reasons and research outlined in my posting. I expect to have (Part 3
>- The Purchase) on the list this week.
Chuck,
I haven't seen your post, but I also don't want to unfairly slander someone.
I remember a while back someone posted some very derogertory information
about Don George and when I checked it out with Don it was totally bogus.
Don had advised me before I bought my engine, and I feel really comfortable
with him. By the way he really bristled when I asked him about Dick Waters.
I guess they are in the same town.
I guess it would be beneficial to update us on the outcome and your
experiences.
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
www.neatcars.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Bodie" <pbodie(at)interlink.com> |
| Subject: | Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
I am building a RV-6A and having problems building the elevators. I built
the left elevator the first time and discovered excessive oil canning in the
skin when all the cleos were in place in all holes. I decided to order a new
skin rather than rivet the existing skin on to see if the oil canning was
removed by the final assembly and then have to drill out all the rivets to
install a new skin. The second skin has the same problem. I checked the bend
on the trailing edge and it is to specs. the jig is straight and plumb. Can
someone suggest a cause or a way to fix the oil canning. I have thought of
adding additional stiffeners. Should they be parallel to the existing ones
or perpendicular???
Pete Bodie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes |
> . . . . . I hadn't walked 20' when
>KABOOM!!!. Plastic and Nicads rained down on my ugly truck and driveway.
>Yikes!
>
>I had been using the drill to countersink 843, 844 longerons. When the
>battery started to fade, I replaced it with it's twin brother fresh from
>the charging unit.
>When both batteries were exhausted, I started using my pneumatic drill to
>finish countersinking. Subject battery had been on the charger
>approximately 1 hour +/- 15 min.
>
>Hate to think what might have happened had I not decided to see what junk
>came in the mail today. I have a new found respect for the potential
>danger in these things. Had I no noticed the smoke, this could have been a
>very bad day indeed.
You might want to check the charger . . . they're SUPPOSED to
have built-in controls to prevent this kind of event due to
overheating. Glad you weren't around when the laws of physics
caught up with the failure mode. It wouldn't hurt to write to
the manufacturer's consumer products division and let them
know what happened. They might want to get the charger back to
look at it.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna gnd plane |
>I recall a discussion on the size of the x-ponder ground plane. Believe
>was around 5.20 inches dia. (some number times the antenna length).
>Does anyone recall this number?
2 times the seated height of the antenna which is 2.6"
> Location away from the pilot/co-pilot is also
>recommended but over ten feet requires a different cable. Yes?? I was
>thinking about locating it aft of the pilot in the baggage area. Is that
>distance safe?
A totally bogus recommendation. A few years back, someone observed
that their transponder was rated for 200 watts output . . . 1/3rd
that of the family microwave. Our hero was immediately concerned for
preservation of the family jewels and proceeded to line the bottom
of his composite seat pan with aluminum foil. What he failed to
understand was that his RF coffee warmer and popcorn popper was
rated in continuous watts while the transponder was in peak watts.
The average power output from a transponder is less than 1 watt . . .
BTW, the eyes are about 100 times more sensitive to the effects of
microwave heating than are any deep organs . . . you'll go blind
you quit making babies.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doyon, Richard" <Richard.Doyon(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Iridite/alodine |
Hi!
I'm looking for some alodine in powder (Iridite under its commercial name).
It usually comes in 10Lbs package, so there's always a *little* left. Anyone
has some extra to sell?
As well, I'm planning on buying some Citra Safe cleaner. It's listed as
FP (Final prior to Paint, the only thing that MEK does that it doesn't is FB,
Final prior Bonding/Sealing) so it'll be good for cleaning. It is NOT a solvent,
so you'll need something else to clean your paint gun though. But, it's 'environment
friendly' and smells like citrus. Much better to work with than MEK
or something like that - no respirator. It comes in 6 x 1 Gal kits, and if I
remember correctly, it goes for about 45$ a Gallon. Sure is more expensive than
MEK, but it's much safer. Any takers? I should go and get it by the end of the
week.
Rich
-6A, empennage on order
Putting jig together, and buying "chemicals".
Everett, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Alternator Failure Today |
Bob,
On my return trip from Sun 'N Fun, I had an alternator field CB trip.
A precautionary landing in Charleston NC didn't find the problem, and it
tripped again once in the air. The remainder of the trip to CT was done
on the battery with minimal load (GPS and Turn & Bank, Xponder over
Atlantic City and NY). To make a long story short, the problem turned
out to be the terminal inside the field plug that goes onto the back of
the alternator. It was intermittent and causing the OV crowbar to trip
the breaker. This unit is less than two years old and has less than 1000
Hrs on it. The fix was simple, and a check of this terminal has been
added to the inspection list I perform on each oil change (25 Hrs).
So can this be classified as a failure?????
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [SMTP:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 9:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Need Advice - Alternator Failure Today
>
>
>
> However, I would rather buy a new
> >alternator or pay more for a different kind so it will last longer.
> I have
> >read on the list how people have used other alternators that are high
> >quality and higher amperage, but they mention they have to add a
> bubble to
> >their cowl to get them to fit. Also some people have mentioned that
> the
> >other alternators interfere with the constant speed prop oil line. I
> would
> >prefer to find a quality unit the same size so I won't have to make
> any
> >modifications.
> >
> >I do have cooling air tubes to the alternator, and am wondering if
> others
> >using the rebuilt alternator Van sells have had a longer life span
> than I
> >have, maybe mine was just a fluke. Does anybody know of an alternator
> model
> >that is the same size as vans 35 amp model, that might be of higher
> quality
> >or brand new instead of rebuilt.
> >
> >Does anybody know the make and model of Vans rebuilt alternators,
> maybe I
> >could buy a new one and have better luck ?
> >
>
> In about 7 years of sales and over 1,000 units in service
> the B&C alternators have yet to produce a wearout or defect
> failure . . .
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
Pete Bodie wrote:
> I am building a RV-6A and having problems building the elevators. I built
> the left elevator the first time and discovered excessive oil canning in the
> skin when all the cleos were in place in all holes. I decided to order a new
> skin rather than rivet the existing skin on to see if the oil canning was
> removed by the final assembly and then have to drill out all the rivets to
> install a new skin. The second skin has the same problem. I checked the bend
> on the trailing edge and it is to specs. the jig is straight and plumb. Can
> someone suggest a cause or a way to fix the oil canning.
Check that all the rib flanges are square.
Is the skeleton twisted? On one of my ailerons, I found that dimpling
the spar had introduced a twist.
Rivetting did noticeably reduce oilcanning in my elevator skins.
> I have thought of
> adding additional stiffeners. Should they be parallel to the existing ones
> or perpendicular???
No idea. Ask Vans.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | HIO-360 Engine Question |
There are a couple of engines advertised in our local aviator's rag that are
listed as HIO-360's. Can I assume that the H stands for helicopter? If so
what would be the difference between a standard IO-360 and a helicopterized
360? There are two for sale locally that are around 1500 hours and are
listed as $5000 each. Can some of the engine gurus out there give me an
idea of what kind of questions to ask about these engines?
Sorry if this is a FAQ....I can't search the archives because I don't have
web access.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Bodie" <pbodie(at)interlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
Thank you for the reply so fast. I will check the spars tonight since that
is the common parts in the two assembles. I will also check the stiffeners
they may have been twisted by the dimpling or riveting.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin
>
> Pete Bodie wrote:
> > I am building a RV-6A and having problems building the elevators. I
built
> > the left elevator the first time and discovered excessive oil canning in
the
> > skin when all the cleos were in place in all holes. I decided to order a
new
> > skin rather than rivet the existing skin on to see if the oil canning
was
> > removed by the final assembly and then have to drill out all the rivets
to
> > install a new skin. The second skin has the same problem. I checked the
bend
> > on the trailing edge and it is to specs. the jig is straight and plumb.
Can
> > someone suggest a cause or a way to fix the oil canning.
>
> Check that all the rib flanges are square.
>
> Is the skeleton twisted? On one of my ailerons, I found that dimpling
> the spar had introduced a twist.
>
> Rivetting did noticeably reduce oilcanning in my elevator skins.
>
> > I have thought of
> > adding additional stiffeners. Should they be parallel to the existing
ones
> > or perpendicular???
>
> No idea. Ask Vans.
>
> Frank.
>
> --
> frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
> My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Hoskins" <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
It is my understanding that the helicopter version is designed to turn
approximately 2,900 rpm to develop 180hp. Don,t believe you can spin a cs
or fixed pitch prop that fast..
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 3:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: HIO-360 Engine Question
>
>There are a couple of engines advertised in our local aviator's rag that
are
>listed as HIO-360's. Can I assume that the H stands for helicopter? If so
>what would be the difference between a standard IO-360 and a helicopterized
>360? There are two for sale locally that are around 1500 hours and are
>listed as $5000 each. Can some of the engine gurus out there give me an
>idea of what kind of questions to ask about these engines?
>
>Sorry if this is a FAQ....I can't search the archives because I don't have
>web access.
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Alternator Failure Today |
> On my return trip from Sun 'N Fun, I had an alternator field CB trip.
>
> So can this be classified as a failure?????
If it stopped working and it wasn't supposed to stop working, it is a failure.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 Hinge Brackets |
Hello all,
Thanks to everyone who responded to my hinge bracket question. I received
conflicting advice so I waited until today and talked to Van's. Here it is,
from the horse's mouth, so to speak:
The HS-309, 310 and 311 hinge brackets are fabricated by the builder out of
aluminum angle.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
RV-3, #11339. Empennage
Northern Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Barnes <erbarnes(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet question |
Bob,
I saw some good information, but not a direct answer to your question (other than
what's on Bunny's pages). Drill'em out and use 4-6's. The bracket is steel,
so you should be able to keep the holes circular drilling out the alum. rivet
(not always the case drilling out rivets through aluminum brackets!).
As far as the MIL SPEC guides go, I remember my 4-5 rivet being a long shot from
even these reduced limits (yes, I did it too). I think VAN's does this so everyone
will learn to measure from the get-go! It's been pointed out 2+ years
ago, and it's still wrong in the plans.
EB
#80131 Wings
At 12:25 PM 4/25/99, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>The often quoted rivet shop head pass-fail criteria of 1.5 times the
>rivet diameter for the minimum head diameter, and 0.5 for the minimum
>height is a very conservative rough guide. There is a MIL SPEC that
>gives more exact numbers. MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck Type,
>Preparation for and Installation of" is available at
><http://www.flash.net/~gila/> thanks to Gil Alexander.
>
>For 1/8 rivets, the minimum shop head diameter is 0.163 and the
>minimum head height is 0.050. Both these values are quite a bit less
>than the oft quoted 1.5D and 0.5D.
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
>
>
>>
>>i riveted hs 411 (elevator bearing bracket with bearing) together
>>according to plans using six 4-5 rivets. being this my first rivet
>>experince i finally noticed they did not pass the ht. requirement for
>>the shop head. then drilling out and not setting as hard with squeezer-
>>ht ok but diameter too small. now i realize that rivet length is not
>>long enough and i need to go up a size to 4-6. i did prime by brush on
>>bearing which could be my problem. any ideas?? or suggestions?? bob in
>>arkansas
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
>
>
>
Eric Barnes
Sr. Financial Analyst, US Channel Sales
408-527-5967
E R B A R N E S @cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
Are the mounts the same for 290, 320, 360 engines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
Hi Pete:
Another thing that you might want to check is to see if your backriveting
plate is either flush or just a smidge higher than your work table. Mine
was just a bit short of being flush ( hardly perceptible) but I think that
when I riveted the stiffeners on, it caused the skin to get slightly
stretched. My oilcanning is very minor, so it has been full speed ahead
ever since. If I feel like it, I MAY do them over, now that I am older and
wiser.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Left wing tank
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 2:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin
>
>
>I am building a RV-6A and having problems building the elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul_Imhof(at)Dell.com |
| Subject: | HIO-360 Engine Question |
Scott,
I looked into this a while back. The cam and oil pan are very different. AND
MAX RPM is around 3300. Amount other things, that high RPM would limit the
use of CS prop. ALL of my engine friends said to pass on this.
I went with the MOD Works out of Florida.
Paul Imhof
RV-8 on gear, rebuilding engine.
There are a couple of engines advertised in our local aviator's rag that are
listed as HIO-360's. Can I assume that the H stands for helicopter? If so
what would be the difference between a standard IO-360 and a helicopterized
360? There are two for sale locally that are around 1500 hours and are
listed as $5000 each. Can some of the engine gurus out there give me an
idea of what kind of questions to ask about these engines?
Sorry if this is a FAQ....I can't search the archives because I don't have
web access.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad? |
Anyone out there using the BC103-1 (12AH) or BC 14-1 (17 AH). I've heard
from a Lancair 4 builder that they did not get very good life mounted on the
engine side of the firewall. One RV6 builder raves about the 12AH one
cranking his O-360 VFR machine. Does anyone know why the 12 AH costs $120 and
the 17 AH costs $84?
Anyone have a neat installation of their fuseholder where it is easy to get
to and change fuses or trouble shoot?
Bernie Kerr, RV6A engine and panel, S E FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 04/24/99 |
RV List message posted by David Ford
How many tools does it take to build an RV?......Just one more, dear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
>
>There are a couple of engines advertised in our local aviator's rag that
are
>listed as HIO-360's. Can I assume that the H stands for helicopter? If so
>what would be the difference between a standard IO-360 and a helicopterized
>360? There are two for sale locally that are around 1500 hours and are
>listed as $5000 each. Can some of the engine gurus out there give me an
>idea of what kind of questions to ask about these engines?
>-
The HIO 360 CXX are rated at 2900 RPM (205hp), HIO 360 BXX rated at 2900 RPM
(180 hp) and the HIO 360 D1A is rated at 3200 RPM (190hp). As mentioned by
others a little fast for a prop.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | HIO-360 Engine Question |
You can but maybe just an aircraft cam would fix the rpm problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Hoskins <Imagine21_glenn(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HIO-360 Engine Question
>
>It is my understanding that the helicopter version is designed to turn
>approximately 2,900 rpm to develop 180hp. Don,t believe you can spin a cs
>or fixed pitch prop that fast..
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 3:57 PM
>Subject: RV-List: HIO-360 Engine Question
>
>
>
>>
>>There are a couple of engines advertised in our local aviator's rag that
>are
>>listed as HIO-360's. Can I assume that the H stands for helicopter? If
so
>>what would be the difference between a standard IO-360 and a
helicopterized
>>360? There are two for sale locally that are around 1500 hours and are
>>listed as $5000 each. Can some of the engine gurus out there give me an
>>idea of what kind of questions to ask about these engines?
>>
>>Sorry if this is a FAQ....I can't search the archives because I don't have
>>web access.
>>
>>--
>>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>>Network Administrator
>>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>>209-946-5116
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
>
>I am building a RV-6A and having problems building the elevators. I built
>the left elevator the first time and discovered excessive oil canning in the
>skin when all the cleos were in place in all holes. I decided to order a new
>skin rather than rivet the existing skin on to see if the oil canning was
>removed by the final assembly and then have to drill out all the rivets to
>install a new skin. The second skin has the same problem. I checked the bend
>on the trailing edge and it is to specs. the jig is straight and plumb. Can
>someone suggest a cause or a way to fix the oil canning. I have thought of
>adding additional stiffeners. Should they be parallel to the existing ones
>or perpendicular???
>Pete Bodie
>
Rivet the skin on. In most cases that will tighten up the skin.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
guess i not have enough muscle. QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
test? 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
guess i need to experience the rivet gun. thanx, bob in arkansas with
aching tired hands :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hargrave" <Bobby.Hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes |
Right you are again, Bob K.
I called DeWalt and talked to the model manager for the cordless drills
and he said the same thing. The charging unit was supposed to prevent the
type of failure and resulting explosion I experienced. A new charger and
two new batteries are enroute as we speak. With DeWalt compliments of
course. Of interest, the DeWalt representative new the charger number
stamped on the bottom of my unit before I gave it to him. I suspect this
was not the first call that he had received. I used to take these things
for granted as being safe. Not so anymore! Only 1 cell out of 10 exploded
and it was a "c" sized battery. I do not want to think what damage all 10
cells might have done.
I read your book, Bob. When I get to the electrics, your stuff is going in
my 8.
Regards,
Bob Hargrave
----------
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: NiCad Battery Pack Explodes
> Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 8:48 AM
>
>
> > . . . . . I hadn't walked 20' when
> >KABOOM!!!. Plastic and Nicads rained down on my ugly truck and driveway.
> >Yikes!
> >
> >I had been using the drill to countersink 843, 844 longerons. When the
> >battery started to fade, I replaced it with it's twin brother fresh from
> >the charging unit.
> >When both batteries were exhausted, I started using my pneumatic drill
to
> >finish countersinking. Subject battery had been on the charger
> >approximately 1 hour +/- 15 min.
> >
> >Hate to think what might have happened had I not decided to see what
junk
> >came in the mail today. I have a new found respect for the potential
> >danger in these things. Had I no noticed the smoke, this could have been
a
> >very bad day indeed.
>
> You might want to check the charger . . . they're SUPPOSED to
> have built-in controls to prevent this kind of event due to
> overheating. Glad you weren't around when the laws of physics
> caught up with the failure mode. It wouldn't hurt to write to
> the manufacturer's consumer products division and let them
> know what happened. They might want to get the charger back to
> look at it.
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
> >
> >It is my understanding that the helicopter version is designed to turn
> >approximately 2,900 rpm to develop 180hp. Don,t believe you can spin a cs
> >or fixed pitch prop that fast..
> >-----Original Message-----
hmmmm.....
Anybody remember the "Cobra" racing biplane from Reno? Midget Mustang
fuselage & biplane wings. It's been flown for years with an O320 turning
3000 rpm cruise to airshows & 3200-3300 during the shows. Metal fixed
pitch prop.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Another Shielded Wire Question |
Ok, one more question about this:
Let say you are wiring your PM1000 Intercom, and you are using shielded wire
for all of the wires (about 20 wires total.) Does each wire shield go to
its own ground, or can each shield for all wires be bundled together and
sent to one ground point by a single wire?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
> in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
> squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
> rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
> formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
> guess i not have enough muscle.
> QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
> this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
> test?
Probably. To decide, I think you need to check whether at the thinnest
point, the shop head is thick enough... if it is (a) it'll be OK as is,
or (b) you can give it another squeeze (or a touch with the rivet gun)
to level it. I'd go for option (a). If it isn't thick enough there, try
(b). I'd hesitate to drill them out if they're close to spec... you're
liable to damage the hole.
> 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
Practise on scrap before doing it on the plane.
I found that squeezing 1/8" rivets was quite difficult (many skewed
heads), and gave up on it quite quickly. Later, I tried doing some on my
wings... I was a bit surprised to find that they were pretty good. I
guess that squeezing all those 3/32" rivets gave me the practise I
needed to get the 1/8" ones right. Nowadays I feel just as comfortable
squeezing as driving.
> guess i need to experience the rivet gun.
You'll have to use the gun sometime... might as well start now.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wisconsin RV's ??? (Madison/Middleton) |
I am in the Madison/Middleton, WI area for a day or two and would love to
see some RV projects if there are some kind RV souls out there (here) who
are willing to share such.
Most interested in RV6(A) as that is what I am building.
If you have an RV (flying or under construction) close by and are willing to
be "pestered" by another RV builder, please send email to:
James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net
Thanks.
James ... just checking
RV6A QB ... fiberglass stuff for empenage and then back to sliding canopy
and engine cowl
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Shielded Wire Question |
On Mon, 26 Apr 1999, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> ... can each shield for all wires be bundled together and
> sent to one ground point by a single wire?
Yes. You will find that there are only one or two audio ground pins on
the intercom. The exception would be if they have a pin specifically
marked to be the mic ground.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(530) 676-6513 - voice Suite 1
(530) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Missing info in the archive |
Listers,
While preparing myself for the construction of my kit, I found that
a list of primers and solvent/cleaners sources was missing from the
archive. Even if everybody seems to have an opinion on the subject, it
seemed to me that if you so choose to use a 2 part epoxy primer, very
little was available in the archive as far as supplier and names, part
numbers, etc... I DO NOT WANT TO START OVER THE DEBATE!!!!!! :) Just so
that for whatever reasons somebody would choose to go with 'airliner
like' primer, they're would be some centralized info. As for the DUpont,
Variprime SW and other, the hits are abundant when doing a search.
Through my current job and me previous one, I have access to the Boeing
Material Specification (BMS) and the Canadair Material Specification
(CMS - now Bombardier Aerospace). The specs were generally within 95% of
each others. The variation accounted for local stuff: home brew, tribal
knowledge, Moonshine, etc...Though I cannot reproduce the content of
those specifications, it is perfectly legal for a 'source' of that
specification to advertise its product as being approved to that
specification. For example, if you go to the Courtaulds Aerospace web
site (http://www.aerospace.courtaulds.com/index.taf) and start to look a
little closer at their PDF file where you can cross check part numbers
against specifications, you'll run into this:
BMS 10- 11 REV. V, 513K009, TYPE I CLASS A GRADE A, THE BOEING COMPANY
YELLOW
BMS 10- 11 REV. V, 515K011, TYPE I CLASS A GRADE A, THE BOEING COMPANY
BAC 452 (GREEN)
CMS 565- 01 REV. C AMEND 1, 513K009, CLASS A GRADE A, BOMBARDIER
INC.YELLOW
CMS 565- 01 REV. C AMEND 1, 515K011, CLASS A GRADE A, BOMBARDIER INC.
GREEN
(note that BMS and CMS both have the same 513K009 green and 515K011
yellow p/n)
Then on to Mil-P-23377 approved paint, and the same thing again:
207- 9- 432 REV. G, 513X390, TYPE I, NORTHROP GRUMMAN CORPORATION,
YELL0W
FMC 7715- 01 REV. A, 513X390, N/ A, HONEYWELL, YELLOW
FMS 3027, 513X390, N/ A, GENERAL DYNAMICS, YELLOW
MIL- P- 23377F REV. F, 513X390, TYPE I CLASS 1 ,MILITARY SPECIFICATION,
YELLOW
SBO 125- 024, 513X390, N/ A, ROCKWELL INTERNATIONAL, YELLOW
Since I live in the Puget Sound area, I looked for Courtaulds and found
this:
Courtaulds Aerospace A S C Seattle..........(425) 483-3999
14126 Ne 190th WOODNVILLE WA 98072-843
ANd call them, and a 1Gal kit goes for 94$, talked with "Sally"
(and off a RV lister, this for alodine... thanks Jim!)
Iridite (alodine powder)
Cascade Columbia Distribution Co............(206) 282-6334
3231 17th W SEATTLE WA 98119-1708
(If somebody asks, just say that I spent countless evenings surfing the
web and linking the dots to get what will follow... :)
Now, you all get the drift. Find what you want to use, and look in your
local yellow pages to see if they wouldn't have a distributor in the
area. The next 3 email that will follow this one will have a 2 parts on
primers p/n and sources (remember that Ii live in the Seattle area,
therefore most are for around here) and a 1 part on cleaners/solvents.
All that was gathered from the web on publicly accessible site and then
crosscheck with the BMS and CMS (or is it the other way around?!) Hope
it'll be of some help to some folks out there, assembling that info was
a good exercise for me and help me choose what I wanted to do.
BTW, the UPS driver (which better get used to my address!) just drop off
my empennage!! Whooohooo!!!
Rich
-6A, Empennage - Inventory ("You wanna build a 'what' with those in the
box?!")
Everett, WA
richard.doyon(at)pss.boeing.com
***this is my opinion and does not represent my employer in any ways
(they do in the larger models...)***
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Primers Sources (1/2) |
Let's start with how primer is classified (both specs are virtually
identical)
TYPES
a. Type I - A corrosion inhibiting primer to be furnished in yellow or
green. When no color is
specified, the color shall be green Type I consists of a primer base
material plus converter and
thinner if necessary, to be mixed in the volume ratio to produce a
suitable viscosity for
application by spray, or brush equipment.
b. Type II - Enamel, high gloss, semi-gloss, and flat to be furnished
in the color and
gloss specified on the purchase order. Type II consists of an enamel
base material plus
converter and thinner, if necessary, to be mixed in the volume ratio to
produce a suitable
viscosity for application by spray or brush. Separate components
consisting of epoxy toners are
used with tint bases for producing standard colors in Type II enamel.
2 CLASSES
a. Class A - Material is intended for conventional application methods
including air or
airless spray, or curtain coat.
b. Class B - Material is intended for application with electrostatic
painting equipment as
well as conventional methods.
2.3 GRADES
Grades specify solvent content and Type. When no Grade of Type I
primer is
specified, either Grade A or Grade E may be used. When no Grade of Type
II enamel is
specified, either Grade A or Grade D enamel may be used.
a. Grade A - primer or enamel - VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) content
approximately 600 to 650 g/l in the mixed primer.
b. Grade B - Type I primer - VOC content < 350 g/l in the mixed primer
containing
exempt solvents.
c. Grade D - Type II enamel - VOC content < 420 g/l in the mixed
enamel.
d. Grade E - Type I primer - VOC content < 350 g/l in the mixed
primer, Water
reducible.
(Primer application process spec)
GENERAL
d. Usable times (pot life) after mixing are:
Type I and Type II, Grade A
Below 80 F 16 hours
80 to 85 F 12 hours
Above 85 F 8 hours
Type I, Grade B
Below 80 F Coutaulds Aerospace 6 hours
Dexter Aerospace 16 hours
Type II, Grade D
Below 80 F 4 hours
Type I, Grade E
70 to 80 F Deft 44-GN-11 4 hour maximum>
Deft 44-Y-22 4 hour maximum
Deft 44-Y-32 4 hour maximum
Deft 44-GN-60 6 hour maximum
Potlife for Type I, Grade E can be extended by storing mixture at
temperature below 70 F.
Storage temperature shall not be lower than 50 F and potlife shall not
exceed 16 hours.
Verification of viscosity in accordance with Section 10b. is required to
be performed at a
frequency sufficient to assure viscosity conformance throughout the
potlife
Type I, Class A, Courtaulds Aerospace
Grade A, Green 515K011 Primer Base 1 part
910-012 Curing Solution 1
part
Deft Chemical Coatings
02-GN-40 Primer Base 1 part
02-GN-40 Primer Converter 1
part
IS-101, MEK or MIBK Thinner
0.1 part max.
Deft Chemical Coatings
02-GN-40 FD Primer Base 1
part
02-GN-40 FD Primer Converter
1 part
IS-101, MEK or MIBK Thinner
0.1 part max.
Deft Chemical Coatings
02-GN-40 FD (1124) Primer
Base 1 parts
02-GN-40 FD (1124) Primer
Converter 1 part
IS-101 or MEK Thinner 0.1
part max.
Dexter Crown Metro Aerospace
Base 10-P4-2 FL 1 1 part
Catalyst EC-117 1 part
Thinner TR-19 or 0.5 max.
Retarder Thinner TR-20 0.5
max.
Deft Chemical Coatings
Base 02-GN-58 1 part
Catalyst 02-GN-58 1 part
Thinner IS-101, MEK or MIBK
0.2 part max.
Nihon Tokushu Toryo Co.
Sky Hullo Primer 1000A Base 1
part
Sky Hullo Primer 1000A
Catalyst 1 part
MEK or MIBK Thinner 0.2 part
max.
Nihon Tokushu Toryo Co.
Sky Hullo Primer number 1005
Base 1 part
Sky Hullo Primer number 1005
Catalyst 1 part
MEK 0.5 part max.
Tempo Paint and Varnish Co.
4500-PB-30D Primer Base 1
part
4500-C-30D Primer Catalyst 1
part
4500-S-30D Thinner 1 part
max.
Type I, Class A, Dexter Crown Metro Aerospace
Grade A, Yellow 10-P4-3 Primer Base 1 part
EC-117 Primer Converter 1
part
TR 19 Thinner or 0.5 part
max.
TR 20 Retarder Thinner 0.5
part max
Type I, Class A, Deft Chemical Coatings
Grade A, Green, Rule 66 02-GN-39 Primer Base 1 part
FL 2 02-GN-39 Primer Catalyst
1 part
Methyl Cellosolve or
MEK 0.1 part max.
Type I, Class A, Deft Chemical Coatings
Grade A, Yellow, Rule 66 02-Y-28 Base 1 part
FL 2 02-Y-28 Catalyst 1 part
Methyl Cellosolve or MEK Thinner 0.1 part
max.
Deft Chemical Coatings
02-Y-32 Base 1 part
02-Y-32 Catalyst 1 part
Methyl Cellosolve or MEK Thinner 0.1 part
MIL-P-23377 Primer (14) Any supplier or MIL-P-23377
Component I 1 part
Component II 1 part
MIL-T-19588 FL 3 or MIL-T-19544 1 part
max.
Courtaulds Aerospace FL 4
MIL-P-23377 Primer Base, Component 1 1
part
MIL-P-23377 Converter, Component II 1
part
Accelerator Mixture FL 5 FL 6 0.1 part
max.
MIL-T-19588 FL 3 or MIL-T-19544 1 part
max.
Pratt and Lambert, Inc.
FL 4 MIL-P-23377 Primer Base, Component I
1 part
MIL-P-23377 Converter, Component II 1
part
EX15363 Accelerator FL 6 0.1 part max.
MIL-T-19588 FL 3 or MIL-T-19544 1 part
max.
Deft Chemical Coatings
Type I, Class A 44-GN-11 Component I Base 2 Parts
Grade E, Green 44-GN-11 Component II Converter 1
Part
FL 9 Distilled or Deionized water FL
8 4.5 Parts
Deft Chemical Coatings
44-GN-60 Component I Base 2 Parts
44-GN-60 Component II Converter 1 Part
Distilled or Deionized water FL 8 4.5
Parts
Deft Chemical Coatings
Type I, Class A, 44-Y-22 Component I Base 2 Parts
Grade E, Yellow 44-Y-22 Component II Converter 1 Part
FL 9 Distilled or Deionized water FL 8 5.25
Parts
Deft Chemical Coatings >
44-Y-32 Component I Base 2 Parts
44-Y-32 Component II Converter 1 part
Distilled or Deionized water FL 8 5.25
Parts
Deft Chemical Coatings
Type I, Class A, 44-GN-57 Component I Base 2 Parts
Grade E, Green 44-GN-57 Component II Converter 1 Part
(For use in touch up only) Distilled or Deionized water FL 8 3.75
Parts FL 10
FL 9
Deft Chemical Coatings
44-GN-61 Component I Base 2 Parts
44-GN-61 Component II Converter 1
Part
Distilled or Deionized water FL 8 3.75
Parts FL 10
Deft Chemical Coatings
Type I, Class A, 44-Y-30 Component I Base 2 Parts
Grade E, Yellow 44-Y-30 Component II Converter 1 Part
(For use in touch up only) FL 9 Distilled or Deionized water FL
8 3.75 Parts FL 10
Dexter Aerospace
(For use in touch up only) 10-P4-19 Base 8 Parts
FL 9 EC-178 Curing Solution 1 Part
Type II, Class B, Dexter Crown Metro Aerospace -
Grade A Gloss Colors 14-F1 Series Base 1 part
EC-109 Catalyst 1
part
TR-36 Thinner 0.5
part max.
Type II, Class A, Dexter Crown Metro
Aerospace -
Grade A, Rule 66 Gloss Colors 443-3 Series Enamel Base FL 2 3
parts
X-304
Enamel Catalyst 1 part
TL-29
Enamel Thinner 2 parts max.
Type II, Class A, Dexter Crown Metro
Aerospace -
Grade A, Rule 66 Gloss Colors 14-F1 Series Enamel base 1 part
EC 109
Catalyst 1 part
TR-19
Thinner or 0.5 part max.
TR-20
Retarder Thinner 0.5 part max.
Dexter Crown
Metro Aerospace - SemiGloss Colors
15-F1 Series
Enamel Base 1 part
EC-105 Catalyst 1
part
TR-19 Thinner 0.5
part max.
Type II, Class A, Dexter Crown Metro
Aerospace -
Grade A, Rule 66 (cont.) Flat Colors 16-F1 Series Enamel
Base 1 part
EC-116 Catalyst 1
part
TR-19 Thinner 0.5
part max.
Type II, Dexter Aerospace
Class B, Grade D Gloss colors
FL 7 446-22 Series
Enamel Base 3 Parts
X-530 Catalyst 1
Part
Dexter Aerospace Semi Gloss Colors
456-23 Series Enamel Base 1 Part
EC-263 Catalyst 1 Part
Dexter Aerospace Flat Colors
466-23 Series Enamel Base 1 Part
EC-264 Catalyst 1 Part
Deft Chemical Coatings Gloss
02-W-37 Base Component 1 Part
02-W-37 Catalyst Component 1 Part
FL 1 May be mixed as continuous batch
FL 2 Meets the requirements of Los Angeles Pollution District Rule 66,
which restricts the use
of photochemically reactive solvents and thinners.
FL 3 A 1:1 by volume mixture of Toluene (TT-T-548) and methyl isobutyl
ketone (GG-M-268) may be
used in lieu of MIL-T-191588. MIL-T-19544 is a slower evaporating
solvent and may be used above
80 F.
FL 4 This mixture is for accelerated cure of the MIL-P-23377 primer.
The pot life for these
mixtures is reduced by 50 percent.
FL 5 The accelerator mixture of Courtaulds MIL-P-23377 is prepared by
mixing 1 part 910X396
accelerator with 4 parts MIL-T-19588 thinner.
FL 6 The accelerator mixture shall be added after the induction period
for the base-converter
mixture.
FL 7 Volatile Organic Compound Content of approximately 420
grams/liter.
FL 8 Electrical Conductivity not to exceed 25 m MHOS
FL 9 Volatile Organic Compound Content of approximately 350
grams/liter.
FL 10 Water content may be reduced up to 50 percent to reduce
foaming/bubbles during brush
application.
OPTION: The 3.75 parts water portion may be replaced with 2.5 parts
acetone and 1.3 parts of
deionized or distilled water. Mixing procedures is as follows:
a. Mix base and converter until uniform mixture.
b. Add both the acetone and deionized water into the mixture, stir
until uniform appearance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Primer Sources (2/2) |
(con't)
Primer Sources Addresses:
Deft Chemical Coatings
17451 Von Karman Ave.
Irvine, CA 92714
Dexter Aerospace Materials Division
1 East Water Street
Waukegan, IL 60085
Courtaulds Aerospace
11601 United Street
Mojave, CA 93501
Tempo Paint and Varnish Co.
205 Fenmar Drive
Weston, Ontario Canada M9L 2X4
http://www.dynamation.com/
http://www.dexteraero.com/coating%20systems%20pages/Cmintro.htm
http://www.akzonobel.com/address/us4.htm
http://www.aviationdirectory.com/aac.htm
Dexter (Akzo)
Aerospace Coatings
Field Support
Sales Manager
John Griffin
Tel: 502.721.8109
Fax: 502.721.8043
Northwest U.S.
ID, OR, MT, WA, WY
Johnny Tolbert
Tel: 206.767.4169
Fax: 206.767.4210
Western U.S.
AZ, CA, NV, UT
Jim Hanlon
Tel: 310.354.7491
Fax: 310.548.0809
North Central U.S.
IA, IL, IN, MI, MN, MO, NE, ND, OH, SD, WI
Bob Dermody
Tel: 502.326.9623
Fax: 502.326.9624
Southwest U.S
CO, KS, NM, OK, TX
Dan Johnson
Tel: 918.341.2843
Fax: 918.341.2828
Northeast U.S.
CT, DE, MA, MD, ME, NH, NJ, NY, PA, VT, WV
Bob Davitt
Tel: 973.683.0735
Fax: 973.683.0736
Mid-Atlantic U.S.
AR, KY, NC, SC, TN, VA
Will Estes
Tel: 770.623.3160
Fax: 770.623.6465
Southeast U.S.
AL, FL, GA, MS, LA
Larry Gold
Tel: 813.948.0703
Fax: 813.949-8648
Latin America
Sergio Rosas
Tel: 817.571.0017
Fax: 817.571.5133
Coating Systems
Distributors
A.C. TECH
St. Louis, Missouri
Tel: 314.863.3900
Fax: 314.721.7480
ALLIEDSIGNAL PACAERO
(Territory: Latin America,
excluding Mexico, Costa Rico and Chili)
Burbank, California
Tel: 818.841.7800
Fax: 818.841.7878
CREATIVE COATINGS
Warren, Michigan
Tel: 810.755.0035
Fax: 810.755.0039
DOWNING PRODUCTS
Misissauga, Ontario,
Canada
Tel: 905.828.2399
Fax: 905.569.0302
GRACO SUPPLY
Ft. Worth, Texas
Tel: 817.535.3200
Fax: 817.534.1127
JOHNSON SUPPLY
http://johnsonsupplyco.com/milspec.htm
Pensacola, Florida
Tel: 850.434.7103
Fax: 850.434.5647
KRAYDEN
http://www.krayden.com/
Denver, Colorado
Tel: 303.280.2800
Fax: 303.280.0178
MARED INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY
Bayshore, New York
Tel: 516.665.5111
Fax: 516.665.4691
T.C. SPECIALTIES
Placentia, California
Tel: 714.524.4490
Fax: 714.524.4595
U.S. AIRMOTIVE, INC.
http://www.usairmotive.com/
Miami Springs, Florida
Tel: 305.885.4991
Fax: 305.887.2405
WATKINS & ASSOCIATES
Atlanta, Georgia
Tel: 770.279.9200
Fax: 770.279.9203
WOLCOTT-PARK, INC.
Rochester, New York
Tel: 716.342.3120
Fax: 716.342.3176
Courtaulds Aerospace Canada, Inc.
266 Humberline Drive Rexdale, Ontario M9W5X1 Canada
Pratt and Lambert Industrial Coating Division 16116 East 13th St.
Wichita, KS 67230
I found this in the archive, but couldn't find anything else on it:
"However, one minor point. The Spec is MIL-P-23377F (an extra 7), and
if you want to buy some certified paint, the easiest consumer outlet is
DETCO in Newport Beach, CA. (1-800-845-0023) ... they distribute
Sterling
paint products, and Sterling U-1201 epoxy primer meets this Mil-Spec.
If
you order from them, don't forget to tell them you are an EAA member and
get a 40% discount."
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <themop(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Solvant source (open full size screen) |
Here's the cleaner/solvents:
(nota: sometimes, you'll get only something like ASTM or TT, etc. Those
are industry standards and there's many vendors that will have a
different commercial name for it. Just ask your friendly local chemical
rep)
Again, the vendors I found are mostly applicable for the Puget Sound
Area, but they also may have a distributor in your area.
Acetone, O-A-51 or ASTM D 329
Aerfluor 343 solvent, Van Waters & Rogers Inc., Kent WA
sec-Butyl alcohol, ASTM D 1007
CDG-110, Van Waters & Rogers Inc., Kent WA
CDG-211, Van Waters & Rogers Inc., Kent WA
Citra Safe, Inland Technology, Tacoma WA
Citra Safe, deodorized, Inland Technology, Tacoma WA
Cleaning solvent, pre-sealing, BMS11-7
Receipe for BMS11-7:
a. Aromatic naphtha (TT-N-97, Type I, Grade B),
50 +/- 2 percent
99 percent minimum purity
b. Ethyl acetate, (TT-E-751), 20 +/- 2
percent
99 percent minimum purity
c. Methyl ethyl ketone, (ASTM D 740), 20 +/- 2
percent
99 percent minimum purity
d. Isopropyl alcohol (TT-I-735),
10 +/- 2 percent
99 percent purity
Or, buy all premixed from:
T-2279A Pratt and Lambert Industrial Coating Division
16116 East 13th St.
Wichita, KS 67230
Turco 4460 Elf Atochem Turco Products, Inc .
3270 E. Washington Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90023
Sikkens 96.130 AKZO/Dexter Aerospace Finishes
Dept. R.I.B.
2170 BA Sassenheim The Netherlands
A-2688 Barton Solvents, Inc.
204 36th St.
P. O. Box 900 Bettendorf, IA 52722
DeSoClean 45, Courtaulds Aerospace Coatings Inc.
Dry cleaning and degreasing solvent, P-D-680, Type I, Type II and Type
III
EP-921, Inland Technology, Tacoma WA
Ethyl alcohol, denatured, 95 percent, AMS 3002 or ASTM E 1145, Type II
Ethyl 3-ethoxy propionate (EEP), Eastman Chemical Co.
Extra Solv, Savolite Inc.
FCC-55, Van Waters & Rogers Inc., Kent WA
Isopropyl alcohol, TT-I-735, Grade A or B
Glidsafe Prepsolv, SCM Glidco Organics
d-Limonene, 95 percent minimum
Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), ASTM D 740, Type I
Methyl isobutyl ketone (MIBK), ASTM D 1153
Methyl propyl ketone, Eastman Chemical Co.
MOK or MOK*, Orelube Corp.
Naphtha, aliphatic, TT-N-95, Type II
Mineral spirits, TT-T-291, Types I, II, and III
Toluene, TT-T-548
Turco 4460 BK, Turco Products Inc.
Turco 6226, Turco Products Inc.
Wedco 3500, Soco-Lynch Corp., Los Angeles CA
KEY:
FP = Final cleaning, prepaint IPA = Isopropyl alcohol
FB = Final cleaning, prebond MEK = Methyl ethyl ketone
G = General cleaning MIBK = Methyl isobutyl ketone
SOLVENT SURFACE TO BE
CLEANED
(Section 5 ref)
METAL ORGANIC COATING
COMPOSITES/
ALL SOLVENT- RESISTANT COMPOSITE TOOLS
FINISHES
ALCOHOLS
Ethyl alcohol, denatured
G G
- G
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) G, FP, FB G,
FP - G
AROMATICS
Toluene G,
FP FP G,
FP -
Ethyl-3-Ethoxy propionate (EEP) G
- G
-
MOK, or MOK*
G -
G -
HALOGENATED SOLVENTS
Aerfluor 343
G G
- G
KETONES
Acetone G, FP,
FB - G,
FP G, FP, FB
Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) G, FP, FB
FP G, FP, FB G, FP,
FB
Methyl isobutyl ketone (MIBK) G
-
G -
Methyl propyl ketone (MPK) G, FP
- G, FP G,
FB
NAPHTHAS/PETROLEUM DISTILLATES
P-D-680, Type I, II, or III
G G
- -
TT-N-95, Type II
G G
- G
TT-T-291, Type I, II or III
G G
- -
Extra Solv
G G
- -
Turco 6226
G G
- -
SOLVENT MIXTURES
BMS11-7 G, FP,
FB FP G, FP,
FB G, FP, FB
FCC-55 G,
FP - G,
FP G, FB
DeSoClean 45 G,
FP - G,
FP -
EP-921
G -
G -
CDG-110 G,
FP G, FP
- G, FB
CDG-211 G,
FP G, FP
- G, FB
3:2 MIBK:MEK FL 2 G, FB,
FP FP G, FB,
FP G, FB, FP
42:58 percent MEK:sec-Butyl alcohol G, FB, FP
FP G, FB, FP G, FB,
FP
FL 2
1:1 MEK:Toluene FL 2 G,
FP FP G,
FP G, FP
Turco 4460 BK G,
FP FP G,
FP G, FP
Wedco 3500
G -
G -
TERPENES
Citra Safe G,
FP - G,
FP G, FP
Citra Safe, deodorized G,
FP - G,
FP G, FP
Glidsafe Prepsolv G,
FP - G,
FP G, FP
d-limonene G,
FP - G,
FP G, FP
FL 1 These solvents contain chlorinated hydrocarbons and are prohibited
for use on titanium and
titanium alloys which will be subjected to temperatures of 550 F or
above during subsequent
processing such as stress relieving, annealing, welding or service
environment.
FL 2 Mixture ratios are by volume. Tolerance is + 2 percent
I plan on using Citra safe as I previously said, here's the info for the
Puget Sound Area:
Inland Technology Inc.......................(253) 383-1177
401 E 27th TACOMA WA 98421-1203
8am-5pm, Pacific Time, Visa/MasterCard,
(I talk with Hank, very friendly)
***usually deal with business/industries, so didn't know if their
allowed to ship chemicals to
private houses***
6 x 1Gal Citra Safe 245.70$ (40.95 per Gal)
Deodorized 299.70$ (49.95 per Gal)
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
Paul
Sample pictures are on my web site as a part of MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck
Type, Preparation for and Installation of" is available at
<http://www.flash.net/~gila/>
Basically, the low end of the slant has to be thick enough per the spec.
... Gil A.
>
>in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
>squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
>rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
>formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
>guess i not have enough muscle. QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
>this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
>test? 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
>guess i need to experience the rivet gun. thanx, bob in arkansas with
>aching tired hands :)
>
RV-6A, #20701, finish kit
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Sources (2/2)- Update |
Rich,
... the section below is still true. The Sterling paint is also
availale from most large boat supply houses (such as West Marine), but for
more $$$
Another source for certified MIL-23377 primer is DuPont DP-70. Be
sure to have your automotive paint dealer check with his distributer, since
his first answer will be to deny its existence. He can get it, and it's
about the same price as the other DP primers when I last checked.
.. Gil Alexander
>
>I found this in the archive, but couldn't find anything else on it:
>
>"However, one minor point. The Spec is MIL-P-23377F (an extra 7), and
>if you want to buy some certified paint, the easiest consumer outlet is
>DETCO in Newport Beach, CA. (1-800-845-0023) ... they distribute
>Sterling
>paint products, and Sterling U-1201 epoxy primer meets this Mil-Spec.
>If
>you order from them, don't forget to tell them you are an EAA member and
>get a 40% discount."
>
>
>Rich
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
<< in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
guess i not have enough muscle. QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
test? 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
guess i need to experience the rivet gun. thanx, bob in arkansas with
aching tired hands :) >>
I had the same type problem (again and again) trying to rivet the first 200
or so 1/8 inch rivets on my plane. Finally, I started driving most of them,
and found that the most important thing was to have the pieces clamped down
AND to use a very heavy bucking bar (I custom made a 4 pounder... builds
muscle too!)
On my squeezers, I added cheater handles to allow me to better squeeze the
1/8 rivets. I found that w/o the cheaters I didn't have enough control.
With the handles, I can control the operation very well. And, yes, I'm aware
that cheater handles *might* tear up the squeezers. However, I figure if the
squeezers are up to crushing the 1/8" rivets, they probably don't know the
difference between "with" and "without" cheater handles.
Good luck.
Kyle Boatright
RV6 Atlanta, GA
Working on many subassemblies on the finish kit.
Had a 1.25 hour ride in a B-17 today...INCREDIBLE!
Thinking that Van should kit the RV-17.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
The HIO-360 at $5000.00 sounds like a good deal. I bought one about a year
ago for 7500.00 and had it completely rebuilt by a quality shop in So Calif.
No problems with this engine, in fact, it has a heavy duty crank which
should be in perfect shape at 1500 first time hours. The airbox will have to
be moved to the bottom front of the engine to take advantage of ram air in
flight. The intake manifold is a larger diameter than the IO-360 and may
have to be changed if it gets too close to the cowling. With the proper
rebuild you can get 230 HP out of it. I also replaced the antiquated Bendix
fuel injection system with a Performance one, which is better on hot days and
vapor lock conditions. Cost to overhaul, about $10,000 for a first rate job
and the modifications. Helicopters have beefier engines and get better care.
Mine came off of a city police helicopter. Hope this helps.
Irv
RV-8 80110 doing the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
You may wish to contact a rebuild shop such as AeroSport Power (See Yellow
Pages). By the time you purchase this engine and have it rebuilt plus
replace/update Mags/Fuel you have the cost of a rebuilt engine. My engine
included new Slick Mags, New Cylinders, New Crank Shaft, Rebuilt Bendix FI + fuel
line hoses, new starter, new alternator, new plugs/wires, modification for
inverted oil system , chrome engine package, inter cylinder baffles, engine oil
quick drain plug, a WARRANTY, and a very reputable and accessable company and
personnel willing to talk to you before, during and after the sale.
IELHAI(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The HIO-360 at $5000.00 sounds like a good deal. I bought one about a year
> ago for 7500.00 and had it completely rebuilt by a quality shop in So Calif.
> No problems with this engine, in fact, it has a heavy duty crank which
> should be in perfect shape at 1500 first time hours. The airbox will have to
> be moved to the bottom front of the engine to take advantage of ram air in
> flight. The intake manifold is a larger diameter than the IO-360 and may
> have to be changed if it gets too close to the cowling. With the proper
> rebuild you can get 230 HP out of it. I also replaced the antiquated Bendix
> fuel injection system with a Performance one, which is better on hot days and
> vapor lock conditions. Cost to overhaul, about $10,000 for a first rate job
> and the modifications. Helicopters have beefier engines and get better care.
> Mine came off of a city police helicopter. Hope this helps.
>
> Irv
> RV-8 80110 doing the wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
> Bob Paulovich wrote:
> > in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
> > squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
> > rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
> > formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
> > guess i not have enough muscle.
>
On some of the cheaper (lighter) rivet squeezers the yoke flexes while
you are squeezing the rivets and gives a poor result. I had terrible
results until I purchased a better quality rivet squeezer from Avery.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
fuse skins 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Adele clamps are a pain in the |
Hey, listers, this I have to share with you.
If you have found, as I have, that getting a bolt started in an Adele
clamp is a right royal pain in the fundamental orifice, today I found
a neat way to do it.
1. Locate the clamp over the tube or bundle or whatever.
2. Clamp it shut with vise grips
3. Cut a 3/32 slot in a piece of .063 and slide it over the lugs up
against the rubber, clear of the bolt holes.
4. Remove the vise grips
5. Use a drill or pin punch to line up the holes in the lugs.
5. Insert the bolt and remove the .063
Lets you save the obscenities for when you really need them, like
when fibreglassing.......
Peter
Sydney, RV6 installing engine accessories
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
What kind of squeezer are you using? There is a difference. I started with
a cheap one from USATCO (I think) and got slanted heads on all the 1/8
rivets. Even the small yoke deforms too much when setting the -4 rivets. I
gave up on it and got a Avery squeezer and it's been a joy to use - perfect
sets with -4 rivets even using the 4" longeron yoke. I don't even use the
cheapie for -3's, I'd rather swap the sets and readjust the Avery... it's
just that much better. It was an early and relatively cheap lesson in
spending the money for quality tools.
Regards,
Greg Young
Houston, TX (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
> in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
> squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
> rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
> formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
> guess i not have enough muscle. QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
> this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
> test? 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
> guess i need to experience the rivet gun. thanx, bob in arkansas with
> aching tired hands :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Excessive oil canning in elevator skin |
A lot of that oilcanning will disappear when you rivet the thing together.
Steve Soule
RV-6A waiting for the finishing kit
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----I am building a RV-6A and having
problems building the elevators. I built
the left elevator the first time and discovered excessive
oil canning in the
skin when all the cleos were in place in all holes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Missing info in the archive |
Rich,
Thanks for the Info.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A QB
Niantic, CT
**********************
>From: Rich <themop(at)gte.net>
>
>Listers,
> While preparing myself for the construction of my kit, I found
that
>a list of primers and solvent/cleaners sources was missing from the
>archive. Even if everybody seems to have an opinion on the subject,
it
>seemed to me that if you so choose to use a 2 part epoxy primer, very
>little was available in the archive as far as supplier and names,
part
>numbers, etc... I DO NOT WANT TO START OVER THE DEBATE!!!!!! :) Just
so
>that for whatever reasons somebody would choose to go with 'airliner
>like' primer, they're would be some centralized info. As for the
DUpont,
>Variprime SW and other, the hits are abundant when doing a search.
>
>Through my current job and me previous one, I have access to the
Boeing
>Material Specification (BMS) and the Canadair Material Specification
>(CMS - now Bombardier Aerospace). The specs were generally within 95%
of
>each others. The variation accounted for local stuff: home brew,
tribal
>knowledge, Moonshine, etc...Though I cannot reproduce the content of
>those specifications, it is perfectly legal for a 'source' of that
>specification to advertise its product as being approved to that
>specification.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
Please take me off the rv-list
Regards
Stan Z
THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twin Cities Rv & Dick Waters |
Shelby,
I keep the list informed of anything I learn.
You are right about Don George and Dick Waters being in the same
town (Orlando)as Don George, in fact they are on the same block.
I also talked to Dick Waters this morning and he is sending Dick
Pearson a shipping order to send the engine back to him. He said that
he will overhaul the engine at no cost to Dick Pearson.
Chuck Rowbotham
Rv-8A QB
Niantic, CT
*********************************
>Chuck,
>
>I haven't seen your post, but I also don't want to unfairly slander
someone.
>I remember a while back someone posted some very derogertory
information
>about Don George and when I checked it out with Don it was totally
bogus.
>Don had advised me before I bought my engine, and I feel really
comfortable
>with him. By the way he really bristled when I asked him about Dick
Waters.
>I guess they are in the same town.
>
>I guess it would be beneficial to update us on the outcome and your
>experiences.
>
>Shelby Smith
>shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
>www.neatcars.com
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | iems7(at)aadc.com (Mike Smallwood 230-8123 Dept. 6960) |
I have an extra set of Tony Bingelis books that I would like to sell. The
titles are as follows: "The Sportplane Builder", "Tony Bingelis on Engines",
"Sportplane Construction Techniques", and "Firewall Forward". I prefer to sell
them as a set. Asking price: $70.
In addition, I have (2) Telex D-950 Headsets for sale. They are still in the
original boxes and are in excellent condition. They would be perfect for
inidividuals just learning to fly who don't want to invest $300 in Green Domes
or for the back seat passengers of a 4 seat aircraft. Asking price: $125 for
the pair.
Please contact me off line at msmallwood(at)iquest.net. I will pick up the
shipping within the U.S.
Mike Smallwood
RV4 Wanna be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jacquelyn eastburn <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
stan, you will ne on the list for the rest of your life...unless you
follow the fine print at the bottom of the list page regarding
unsubscribe..jim e.
THEZING3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Please take me off the rv-list
>
> Regards
> Stan Z
> THEZING3(at)AOL.COM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I am cleaning out my hangar and wish to offer the following for sale;
1 Kohler Fuel Primer pump; second hand, works perfect, looks new, $35.00
1 Aircraft Battery Jumper cable. This has the standard alligator clips on
one end for the car battery attachment, and the red single-piece plug-in
type unit on the other end for aircraft. Was used for a Mooney, but I
believe it will fit most planes that have this auxiliary battery jump
plug-in. Never used. $35.00
e-mail if you have questions on the above items.
Von Alexander
RV-8 15 hours
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
Robert, please explain this to a dummy!
What do you mean by "use an awl to open a pathway in the side of the
braid close to the end of the outer jacket."
Dan DeNeal
Hoopeston, Illinois
RV6a fuselage waiting for finish kit
>--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> III"
>
>
> << How do I go about grounding the braid on
> "shielded wire"? >>
>
>
> Try this old trick a Boeing tech showed me about
> 35 years
> ago while I was hammering on a B-52 . . .
>
> Strip away the outer jacket to expose the braid
> underneath.
>
> Bunch the braid up slightly and use an awl to
> open a pathway
> in the side of the braid close to the end of the
> outer jacket.
>
> Bend the wire/braid over 180 degrees and pull the
> center
> conductor out of the open hole.
>
> Tug the braid out straight to close the hole. Now
> you have
> two leads which may be terminated as needed.
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Save $400 on a still in the box GPS/COMM GX-60 |
Lost partner who wanted IFR and wish to sell the GX 60. Free $50 CD-ROM
simulator.
Please call since I lost the battle with a sheet of al in high wind and cut a
tendon.
Bernie Kerr, 561-466-6701, S E FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net> |
Before you pay any sales/use tax you need to research the sales tax law in your
state. For example in my state there is a three year statut of limitation.
Therefore, since I bought my emp. and wing kit more than three years prior to
receiving the letter from the state, I do not owe any use tax on the emp. and
wings. Also, note that you do not owe use tax for any parts or componts you
purchased in your state and already paid tax on. --- this may include radois,
paint, etc. Finally, you want to check for any exemptions. As previously
stated by others on the list, some states exempt a/c parts. One common
exemption is for used items purchased from an individual not in th business of
selling that item. Your used engine may fall in this category. (Also, if you
bought you kit "used" the entire kit would be exempt.) Also, most states give
credit for sales tax paid to other states. Purchases made at Sun n' Fun are
subject to sales tax. Others may be as well.
Robert Miller
DFaile(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 04/24/1999 11:09:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> << It is early on for me but sooner or later I'll have the same Colorado
> state sales tax issue. >>
>
> I really think the smart thing to do on sales tax in any state is to pay the
> taxes upon receipt of the first major kit. Once this is done you have the
> documentation that the "taxes" are paid.
>
> david faile, fairfield, ct
> mcfii/a&p
> faa aviation safety counselor
> eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
> christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
> rv6 n(44df) started
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adele clamps are a pain in the |
Thanks for the info.
>From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Adele clamps are a pain in the
>Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:00:34 EDT
>
>
>V shaped slots cut in metal strapping material work even better
because they
>are thinner and grip the threads better. Stainless can make a really
neat
>tool. Make several sizes with different slots for all the differents
sizes.
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Adele clamps are a pain in the |
To All,
My father told me a tip used at Lockheed on the shop floor. Take an old hacksaw
blade and cut a "V" in one end about 5/16" wide at the top and about 1-1/2"
long. Sharpen the sides of the "V". The blade is strong enough to depress several
clamps and then slide the blade up until the "V" grabs the threads of stud
that your putting the clamp on. You can then put a washer, lockwasher, and
nut with no problem. It works great.
Laird RV-6 N515L cowling
SoCal
Boy, that Chino Warbird show was the best collection of flying "Heavy Iron" I've
ever seen (and the worker party was pretty cool, too).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
On Mon, 26 Apr 1999, Daniel H. Morris wrote:
>
>
> The HIO 360 CXX are rated at 2900 RPM (205hp), HIO 360 BXX rated at 2900 RPM
> (180 hp) and the HIO 360 D1A is rated at 3200 RPM (190hp). As mentioned by
> others a little fast for a prop.
We are flying a HIO-360 ??? on the Starduster, we don't actually see
over 2800 RPM or so (fixed pitch prop), so perhaps not quite getting full
rated power, but it works fine. You don't have to run the engine at max
RPM.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd wing leading edge
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Answer |
As a core, the HIO-360 engine is very desirable. Don't be put-off by the high
rpm's that the engine turned while installed in a helicopter. The high rpm's
are achieved by using a specially ground cam profile and such a cam would not
be used for aircraft use. As mentioned in earlier posts the engine uses at
heavier crank and could/should be used with 10:1 compression pistons turning
2700 rpm. You will need to change out minor things like the oil pan (to
obtain the correct placement of the bendix unit) and other odds and ends. But
if you are having the engine rebuilt these things can be changed for little,
if any, charge.
Have the cores looked at by an A&P and grab one if they check-out OK.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad? |
>Does anyone know why the 12 AH costs $120 and the 17 AH costs $84?
There is much more demand for the 17 AH so they are produced in higher
numbers (which offsets the fix cost component of production) so they can be
produced and offered at a lower price. (This is the line I was given when I
asked the same question to some reps of a different line of batteries)
>Anyone have a neat installation of their fuseholder where it is easy to get
to and change fuses or trouble shoot?
The neatest I have seen is the fuseblock mounted in a sliding tray which is
located low on the right side of the panel. It could be pulled out and all
the connections were easy to see and reach. It took very little panel
space. I saw this at a flyin at Vans. Others have placed them on the
fuselage next to the passangers leg, or on a swingdown tray attached under
the panel or on the firewall with doors fabricated on the side of the
fuselage for easy access.
Ross Mickey
6A finishing kit
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu> |
I've read the archives and the recent posting about high oil temps, on my
0-360-A1A RV6A. In the summer my temps would rise to over 103 degress Cel,
they usually run around 96-98 cel. Last weekend I removed the 2 inch hose
above the number 3 cylinder for cabin heat, when cabin heat is not used the
air is dumped. I plugged the hole with duct tape. Now my oil temps are
staying at 80-88 degress cel. Is there anyone out there who has developed
a flang with a door on it, so that it can be closed to retain that air for
cooling in the summer time?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
In a message dated 4/27/99 2:29:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
luker.michael(at)mayo.edu writes:
<< I've read the archives and the recent posting about high oil temps, on my
O-360-A1A RV-6A. In the summer my temps would rise to over 103 degrees Cel,
they usually run around 96-98 cel. Last weekend I removed the 2 inch hose
above the number 3 cylinder for cabin heat, when cabin heat is not used the
air is dumped. I plugged the hole with duct tape. Now my oil temps are
staying at 80-88 degress cel. Is there anyone out there who has developed
a flange with a door on it, so that it can be closed to retain that air for
cooling in the summer time? >>
A lot of folks believe that in order to get more heated air thru a heat muff,
that they need to increase airflow. To this end they have a full flow heat
muff (no restrictions at the inlet, the length of the muff and the outlet)
and take ram air from the rear baffle. This is inefficient and wastes
cooling air. IMO to get more usable heated air, you must slow the air down
and take it from an already warm source. Plenums are great improvements
overall, but the below suggestions work for sealed pressure cowlings too.
Take off of your rear baffle in uniform fashion just enough air to cool the
accessories (oil cooler 3", gascolator 1", mags 1", vacuum pump 1", fuel
pump 1", etc.) and direct the air right at the goodies.
Tap about midway down the rear cylinder wraparounds with 2" flanges with
SCAT to each heat muff inlet. This uses air already warmed from passing over
the cylinders to supply the muff(s). The muff inlet should be maximized 2".
The muff outlet area should be sized to allow about 1/4 to 1/3 the flow of
the inlet. You can then place an unraveled stainless steel wool pad inside
each muff to increase the available heat exchanger surface area. This
arrangement will make all of the air do the maximum work before you cut it
loose.
The small amount that leaks out of the muff(s) with the heat closed off will
already have done some of its job.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
IELHAI(at)aol.com wrote:
>
I also replaced the antiquated Bendix
> fuel injection system with a Performance one, which is better on hot days and
> vapor lock conditions.
Irv
What did you do with that antiquated Bendix fuel injection system?
Jerry Springer
RV-6 first flight 7/14/89|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Ennis" <sgtairdog(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 10:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1/8 rivet squeeze question
>
> 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
>guess i need to experience the rivet gun.
Bob, as far as I can tell, a slight slant (difference in thickness
across the face as opposed to a smeared head{shop head all on one side of
rivit body}) is acceptable as a rule, given adequate height.
How do you avoid it? Practice helps, additionally, if the rivit is too long
or doesn't fit the hole you are almost guaranteed a bad rivit. One other
point, the longer yokes tend to flex a bit on the 1/8 rivits, Avery
squeezers seem to address that problem. If you have a Tasco use the shortest
yoke you have available which reaches the rivit you are after.
Oh yeah, practice is the best way to get good with the gun. an you do want
to be good with it before you start driving rivits for real, ask me why I
built 1 set of elevators and bought 3 skins!
Hope this helps, Charlie in Ky. RV-6A fuse. kit
thanx, bob in arkansas with
>aching tired hands :)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
I recently hosted our local Minneapolis area RV builder's group meeting. My
project is an RV6A, and is at the stage where the structure is essentially
complete. At this meeting, someone noticed that I had welded straps on to
the right rudder pedal weldment at the point where the top of the U's are
welded onto the horizontal tube. These straps are on the aft side of the
pilot's right pedal and the forward side of the copilot's right pedal
(these points are in tension when the pilot pushes the right pedal - follow
where the forces go and this will make sense). I made these modifications
only because I thought the area looked somewhat vulnerable, not because I
had heard of any trouble. Someone in the group, upon seeing my
modifications, commented that it was good that I strengthened the area,
because he had experienced a failure in that exact area at about 300 hours.
When he fixed his, he only fixed the broken pedal weld, which was on the
pilot's side, not realizing then that the same problem could happen on the
right side (where the torque from the horizontal tube is transmitted back
down the copilot's pedal and on to the right cable). Guess what - the
right side recently failed also; fortunately, no accident occurred in
either case.
Two thoughts here - one, use only the braking force necessary during
runups, concentrating the force on the tops of the brake pedals (I suspect
that this is the most force the weldments see), and two, consider
strengthening this area. Loss of right rudder could make for a bad day.
If you fly from the right seat, substitute left for right in the above
discussion.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Need help tracing ownership of my RV-3 kit ! |
I writing this in the hope that someone on the list may be able to help
me in getting my RV-3 registered. The "new" FAA rules demand a complete
trail of ownership (by "Bills of Sale") from kit manufacturer (Van's)
all the way to me.
The RV-3 kit (plans number 488) was purchased in 1978 and 1979 from
Van's by:
Charles Dorris
2220 Shannon
Richardson, TX 75081
Does anybody know this person (or any of his relatives, in case he's
deceased)?
I bought the kit from Scott Tubbs who bought it from someone (still
trying to find out who) in Athens, Texas (presumably from the estate or
heirs of the owner who died).
Any help or clues are appreciated.
(Another strike against by a second, or third, or forth, ... hand kit).
Finn
finnlassen(at)netzero.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help tracing ownership of my RV-3 kit ! |
Good luck. I bought my kit from a man in Maryland. He was
supposed to give me a bill of sale at the time of the purchase,
but, somehow it got overlooked. I tried to contact him when I
got home, after the oversight was discovered. He simply would
not answer any phone calls, or respond to my requests for a bill
of sale. Van's finally listed me as the owner of the kit, but, I
don't know if that will be enough for the FAA, if I ever finish
it. Some people can be so nice when you are buying something
from them, and handing over a lot of cash, then get totally
ignorant, when they are worried about liability. I was fuming
about this for a while, then realized there was nothing I could
do about it. If anyone else has any ideas, please let me know.
Thanks. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Paperwork |
Randy,
If you call Van's and request it, they will send you an FAA bill of sale
for an aircraft kit and plans with Van's original signature. I think you
probably have to have purchased all the subkits for your aircraft first.
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A (finish kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Seat Belt Lengths |
Hello, Can someone tell me what size seat belts they ordered for their
RV-4? I am planing to order belts from Silver Parachute which are
similar to Hooker Belts with the ratchet but much less expensive. They
are asking for dimensions for the belt lengths as part of their order
form.
Sincerely,
Steven B. Janicki
RV-4 Engine plumbing, interior, then paint!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need help tracing ownership of my RV-3 kit ! |
Can anyone explain the FAA's rationale/logic/illogic for this rule? Seems
you could just register it as a "Lassen Monoplane Model 1" and who's to
know. What do the plans built folks do? I thought at one time you could
write "Built from materials" on a blank Bill Of Sale to satisfy the regs.
Must have been lobbying from the state revenuers.
Regards,
Greg Young
Houston, TX (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
> I writing this in the hope that someone on the list may be able to help
> me in getting my RV-3 registered. The "new" FAA rules demand a complete
> trail of ownership (by "Bills of Sale") from kit manufacturer (Van's)
> all the way to me.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Adele clamps are a pain in the |
Here's an example of something that SHOULD be archived. Why the DNA JR?
>
>V shaped slots cut in metal strapping material work even better because
they
>are thinner and grip the threads better. Stainless can make a really neat
>tool. Make several sizes with different slots for all the differents sizes.
>Do *** archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Judy and Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor Tank size |
Folks
I searched the archives but couldnt find an a specific answer to this.
Has anybody actual experience of using a compressor having a small tank
volume ie 28 litres (approx 8US Gallons) ? The motor is 3 HP and can
deliver 12cfm ok at 90psi.
Grateful for any replies.
Graham M
Blenheim New Zealand
Preparing workshop and inventorying 6A kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Wellock <garyw(at)compasst.co.zw> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor Tank size |
The only difference is that the compressor will fire up very frequently.
The cfm is fine. I have a large tank on mine so I can work at night,
with a large residual volume as I turn the compressor off.
The rate at which it fires up will depend on the tools you use.
Rivetters use only a little, Air Drills, Spray Gun & Die Grinder use
quite a lot.
The only tools that use > 12cfm @ 90psi will demand too much air and
thus not work properly. If the compressor fires up a lot, make sure that
it is well ventilated to ensure that it does not overheat.
Gary F Wellock
Finishing Elevators RV6
Harare, Zimbabwe
Tel ++ 263-4-741816
Fax ++ 263-4-741816
Cell ++ 263-11-601340
E-Mail:garyw(at)compasst.co.zw
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Judy and Graham Murphy [SMTP:jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 9:39 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor Tank size
>
>
>
> Folks
>
> I searched the archives but couldnt find an a specific answer to this.
>
> Has anybody actual experience of using a compressor having a small
> tank
> volume ie 28 litres (approx 8US Gallons) ? The motor is 3 HP and can
> deliver 12cfm ok at 90psi.
> Grateful for any replies.
>
> Graham M
> Blenheim New Zealand
> Preparing workshop and inventorying 6A kit.
>
>
>
> -----
>
> -----
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help tracing ownership of my RV-3 kit ! |
I searched for him on the internet search. Here is what I found:
Charles M Dorris
Phone : 972-644-4331
2220 Shannon,
Richardson TX 75082-4730
Scott (RV-4 Tail feathers) Westby, WI
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> I writing this in the hope that someone on the list may be able to help
> me in getting my RV-3 registered. The "new" FAA rules demand a complete
> trail of ownership (by "Bills of Sale") from kit manufacturer (Van's)
> all the way to me.
>
> The RV-3 kit (plans number 488) was purchased in 1978 and 1979 from
> Van's by:
> Charles Dorris
> 2220 Shannon
> Richardson, TX 75081
>
> Does anybody know this person (or any of his relatives, in case he's
> deceased)?
>
> I bought the kit from Scott Tubbs who bought it from someone (still
> trying to find out who) in Athens, Texas (presumably from the estate or
> heirs of the owner who died).
>
> Any help or clues are appreciated.
>
> (Another strike against by a second, or third, or forth, ... hand kit).
>
> Finn
>
> finnlassen(at)netzero.net
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | How fast she go... Wink wink nudge nudge... |
My recently purchased RV-3...
O-320-E2B converted to high compression 160 hp
Warnke 72/74 prop
Typical ramp weigth 1100lbs
The previous owner (not the builder either) stated he could do 200mph max
level (GPS and indicated no wind) and ~175MPH cruise. The best I can do is
170mph max and 150mph cruise. Van's litterature too states that a 150hp
RV-3 should do 210 mph. The prop doesn't compare to what Van's suggests for
a climb pitched, if anything it's in the cruise range. Does anyone else out
there have my setup and can let me know what they get?
Bruce Meacham
RV-3 N3456B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help tracing ownership of my RV-3 kit ! |
On the Affidvit of Ownership for Amateur-Built Aircraft there are two options:
1) More than 50% of the above-described aircraft was built from miscellaneous
parts and I am the owner.
2) More than 50% of the above described aircraft was built from a kit
(prefabricated parts) and I am the owner. The bill of sale from the kit
manufacturer is attached.
Actually, in re-reading AC Form 8050-94, Informationn to Aid in the Registration
of U.S. Civil Aircraft, I see:
EVIDENCE OF OWNERSHIP
7. The applicant of an aircraft last registered in the United States must submit
conveyances completing the chain of ownership from the last registered owner,
through any intervening owners, to the applicant.
Well, to the best of my knowledge, this kit has never been registered, so how
can this apply?
17. AIRCRAFT ASSEMBLED FROM PARTS. The applicant for registration of an aircraft
which is assembled from parts to conform to an approved type design must
describe the aircraft ... Bills of sale for all major component parts are
required as evidence of the applicant's ownership. The major components are the
fuselage and engine...
Well, there is no such thing as an approved type design for a amateur kit built
aircraft, so that doesn't apply either.
Another FAA misinterpretation of their own rules?
So, which box do I check?
Finn
Greg Young wrote:
>
> Can anyone explain the FAA's rationale/logic/illogic for this rule? Seems
> you could just register it as a "Lassen Monoplane Model 1" and who's to
> know. What do the plans built folks do? I thought at one time you could
> write "Built from materials" on a blank Bill Of Sale to satisfy the regs.
> Must have been lobbying from the state revenuers.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
> Houston, TX (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
> >
> > I writing this in the hope that someone on the list may be able to help
> > me in getting my RV-3 registered. The "new" FAA rules demand a complete
> > trail of ownership (by "Bills of Sale") from kit manufacturer (Van's)
> > all the way to me.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
>in process of riveting rear HS spar. i decided to squeeze with hand
>squeezer many many 1/8 4-7 rvets riveting the 2 channels-609's to the
>rear spar-603. although they pass the rivet guage test, the heads i
>formed are at a slant. i tried to keep squeezer at correct angle but
>guess i not have enough muscle. QUESTION: 1. are rivets acceptable with
>this slant even though the pass both the ht and diameter rivet guage
>test? 2. how can i keep this problem from happening in the future??
>guess i need to experience the rivet gun. thanx, bob in arkansas with
>aching tired hands :)
Bob,
You might want to try & drive the #4 rivets with your Avery, "C" frame
tool. Tape the rivets in with masking tape, invert and rest the round, shop
head in the #4 cupped set and set it with your rivet gun using the set
provided. IMO, this method is much faster and easier than using a squezzer,
even the pneumatic.
Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
In a message dated 4/27/99 11:15:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)cwix.com writes:
> Someone in the group, upon seeing my
> modifications, commented that it was good that I strengthened the area,
> because he had experienced a failure in that exact area at about 300 hours.
> When he fixed his, he only fixed the broken pedal weld, which was on the
> pilot's side, not realizing then that the same problem could happen on the
> right side (where the torque from the horizontal tube is transmitted back
> down the copilot's pedal and on to the right cable). Guess what - the
> right side recently failed also; fortunately, no accident occurred in
> either case.
Maybe it would be a good idea to do a dye penetrant inspection of these
weld areas at each annual? You know, to do a full throttle run-up with a
constant speed prop requires a bootload of brake to hold the plane still, and
if it's lite on fuel it sometimes skids the tires anyway. Granted, a full
throttle run-up usually isn't required very often, but how many times does it
take before this area starts to fail? I'm thinking that since I have to
dye-pen the nose-gear at each annual anyway, I'll do a detailed examination
of this area as well.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV 115hrs
Broken Arrow, Ok
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | WANTED: RV-6 WING KIT |
I'm looking for a good priced rv-6 wing kit still in the box or one that has
been started to a minimal extent. Thanks
Eli Lewis
Rv-6 Tail
Venice, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How fast she go... Wink wink nudge nudge... |
Bruce: I have the same set-up except for prop and I get GPS over 200 any
time...My airspeed indicator is pretty awful, about 12mph slow...I'm
presently trying out different props and my latest is a 3 blader from
Performance Props and was a little to much..I could only get 210 with a
2550rpm max...Performance repitched but I haven't had a chance to try it
yet...I also have what could be called a climb pitch from DeMuth and it is a
high winder...I can get 215 at 3200, and about 185 at 2500 cruise but can it
climb.Something over 2500 fps..I also have an early model with an 0-290 and
that cruises about 170-5 with a top out of about 185 or so but its not very
clean with no wheel covers and rough leg fairings, probably losing 8-9 mph
right there...Anyway try checking the airspeed by GPS if you haven't already
or run a known ground course at about 500ft and time it ..I have used both
and they x-check...will be watching the list to see if its really that
slow...Jim Brown, Matawan, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
Robert . . . . What State do you live in???
Cecil
Thousand Oaks, CA
writes:
>
>Before you pay any sales/use tax you need to research the sales tax
>law in your
>state. For example in my state there is a three year statut of
>limitation.
>Therefore, since I bought my emp. and wing kit more than three years
>prior to
>receiving the letter from the state, I do not owe any use tax on the
>emp. and
>wings. Also, note that you do not owe use tax for any parts or
>componts you
>purchased in your state and already paid tax on. --- this may include
>radois,
>paint, etc. Finally, you want to check for any exemptions. As
>previously
>stated by others on the list, some states exempt a/c parts. One
>common
>exemption is for used items purchased from an individual not in th
>business of
>selling that item. Your used engine may fall in this category.
>(Also, if you
>bought you kit "used" the entire kit would be exempt.) Also, most
>states give
>credit for sales tax paid to other states. Purchases made at Sun n'
>Fun are
>subject to sales tax. Others may be as well.
>
>Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
In a message dated 4/27/99 8:20:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)cwix.com writes:
<< I recently hosted our local Minneapolis area RV builder's group meeting. My
project is an RV6A, and is at the stage where the structure is essentially
complete. At this meeting, someone noticed that I had welded straps on to
the right rudder pedal weldment at the point where the top of the U's are
welded onto the horizontal tube. These straps are on the aft side of the
pilot's right pedal and the forward side of the copilot's right pedal
(these points are in tension when the pilot pushes the right pedal - follow
where the forces go and this will make sense). I made these modifications
only because I thought the area looked somewhat vulnerable, not because I
had heard of any trouble. Someone in the group, upon seeing my
modifications, commented that it was good that I strengthened the area,
because he had experienced a failure in that exact area at about 300 hours.
When he fixed his, he only fixed the broken pedal weld, which was on the
pilot's side, not realizing then that the same problem could happen on the
right side (where the torque from the horizontal tube is transmitted back
down the copilot's pedal and on to the right cable). Guess what - the
right side recently failed also; fortunately, no accident occurred in
either case.
Two thoughts here - one, use only the braking force necessary during
runups, concentrating the force on the tops of the brake pedals (I suspect
that this is the most force the weldments see), and two, consider
strengthening this area. Loss of right rudder could make for a bad day.
If you fly from the right seat, substitute left for right in the above
discussion. >>
The only rudder pedal tube failures I have heard of here at LVK are on
taildraggers. I think that there is more force put on the taildragger pedals
than on the trigears. Another theory is that pilots were pushing on the
pedals to help them get up out of the seat.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor Tank size |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Wellock <garyw(at)compasst.co.zw>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 6:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Compressor Tank size
>
>The only difference is that the compressor will fire up very frequently.
If the compressor fires up a lot, make sure that
>it is well ventilated to ensure that it does not overheat.
>
>Gary F Wellock
>Finishing Elevators RV6
>Harare, Zimbabwe
>Tel ++ 263-4-741816
>Fax ++ 263-4-741816
>Cell ++ 263-11-601340
>E-Mail:garyw(at)compasst.co.zw
When the compressor fires up frequently it undoubtedly will exceed its duty
cycle. Most small, home compressors have very short duty cycles - 25% is
typical. The direct -drive units have short duty cycles and most people
exceed them, which is why they have frequent burnt valve problems and short
lifetimes.
Few builders invest in a large enough compressor.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
Jerry,
It was part of the trade in on the cost of the Performance unit....sorry,
but I don't have it. The engine came out very well and is pickled until I
can mount it on the fuselage.
Irv Elhai 80110
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THEZING3(at)aol.com |
Lycoming 0-360 A 1 D engine 750hours since new. Chrome cylinders
Compression's in the high 70's A real beauty. Currently flying
Regards
Watler T
wtyler(at)csiweb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
I had the right rudder pedal come off my -6 last year while landing at the
big O. Since then I try not to "over-use" the pedal's on the ground and I
don't press on them to get-out of the plane.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
BTW, If you're going to break your plane away from home, I would recommend
that you do it at Oshkosh. The repair tent at Oshkosh was VERY helpful. Some
of the most helpful people on the planet (not to mention great welders). It
was also nice to have Scott from Van's right there to ask so I could ask
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Panels-Cool! |
Check out these RV panels!
http://www.aerotronics.com/index3.htm
They can sell just the empty panel for you to cut your own holes and put in
your own instruments, quadrants, etc.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad? |
>Anyone have a neat installation of their fuseholder where it is easy
to get
>to and change fuses or trouble shoot?
Hello Bernie,
I have an RV-6 with sliding canopy. I am thinking about installing my
fuse blocks on the subpanel on the far right side. I will then make a
large map compartment on the panel in front of them. The rear of the
compartment would be fastened with segmented hinges. That way, I can
pull the hinges, remove the rear piece, and get to the fuses without
going upside down.
I haven't done this yet but the time is getting very close.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 in Melbourne. Cowling and cooling plenum finally done.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Notice how odd those planes with a landing light in only one wing look!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GX60 Price is $3200 |
Subj: Re: RV-List: Save $400 on a still in the box GPS/COMM GX-60
Date: 4/28/99 9:55:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Kerrjb
In a message dated 4/27/99 11:17:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tcraigst(at)ionet.net writes:
<<
How much do you want for the GX-60?
Tom Craig-Stearman
love those new Apollos!
>>
Vans price is $3594 + shipping.I am either selling it within a week for
$3200+ shipping or returning it to Vans for restocking price. Also included
is a $50 CD ROM simulator program of the GX-60 for free.
Bernie Kerr, 561-466-6701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | source of large in-line fuses |
I was looking for large in-line fuses and discovered a surprising source:
mobile audio suppliers. Seems that the proliferation of multi-hundred watt
amplifiers popular with cars that go boom-booming around town has created a
market for large in-line fuses. Fuses in the range of 10A-100A and holders
that accommodate 8awg and 4awg wire are common for this type of
installation.
So if you want to use an in-line fuse instead of a fusable link somewhere,
this may be a useful place to look.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Paperwork |
>
>
>Randy,
> If you call Van's and request it, they will send you an FAA bill
of sale
>for an aircraft kit and plans with Van's original signature. I think
you
>probably have to have purchased all the subkits for your aircraft
first.
>
>Dale Wotring
Also, make sure you state EXACTLY what aircraft description
terminology you used when you applied for the N number. For example,
for my plane, I called it a "Denk RV-8"....since I am the builder. A
local builder had his registration application bounced back because
what Van's put on his bill of sale wasn't the same as what he put on
the N number reservation application. So, tell the folks at Van's
precisely what to put on the form, including serial number, and all
should go well with the Feds.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
just mounted engine!
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
I don't understand. Can't these engines be operated at lower throttle settings?
I would thing that running at 2700 rather than 2900 would still give 180 hp -
the RPM drop is about 7% so surely HP drop would be less than 25.
For a fixed pitch prop; couldn't you get it pitched to run at 2900 max??
hal
> The HIO 360 CXX are rated at 2900 RPM (205hp), HIO 360 BXX rated at 2900 RPM
> (180 hp) and the HIO 360 D1A is rated at 3200 RPM (190hp). As mentioned by
> others a little fast for a prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/28/99, 1:19:39 PM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I am building a 6 taildragger. Should the battery box be installed before
the last forward bottom skin is riveted on?>>
Yes!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
>> The HIO 360 CXX are rated at 2900 RPM (205hp), HIO 360 BXX rated at 2900
RPM
>> (180 hp) and the HIO 360 D1A is rated at 3200 RPM (190hp). As
mentioned by
>> others a little fast for a prop.
The formula-I racers run their engines with fixed-pitch props at RPMs
considerably in excess of 2900 RPM. The prop builders can easily craft a
prop that will turn 2900 RPM and still keep the tips subsonic.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <info(at)buildersbooks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Panels-Cool! |
>
Has anyone attempted to put a baby seat in the back of a 6. Did you tie it in or
just place it there?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <info(at)buildersbooks.com> |
| Subject: | baby seat in a 6? |
>
Has anyone attempted to put a baby seat in the back of a 6. Did you tie it in or
just place it there?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
I what to build a free standing Jig. I don't have a problem with space, but I
would like to be able to move the jig around. The one problem that I have is
that my ceiling is 10 foot tall. My shop is double duty as I use it for
Lawnmower repair work that I do on a part time basis (RV-sponser) and would
like to move the jig in when building. Does anyone have a good drawing for a
free standing jig and what material did you use for construction. Thanks
(will be ordering kit as soon as shop is equipped and ready)
Mike Rawls
Deer Park, TX.
MRawls3896(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
THANK YOU for the kind words, Gary. Glad you were pleased with our
service.
I have 35 qualified personel working for me from my Chapter 75. We have on
staff several aircraft welders. They have been taught by a world class
welding instructor who is currently on the West coast conducting a seminar.
I also have several A&Ps, AIs and a DAR plus a couple of mechanic examiners
as unpaid volunteers. Our Chapter has been doing this every year since 1963
at Rockford. I have worked every year since 1972 and made numerous "plane"
friends.
We are supported not only by the EAA, but Snap-On, Harris Calorific,
Univair, and the donations of many fine plane owners that have left a
donation after using our facilities.
Drop in and see our our new building we hope to build this June.
Cy Galley - Chairman, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh.
. -----Original Message-----
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com <RV6junkie(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment
>
>I had the right rudder pedal come off my -6 last year while landing at the
>big O. Since then I try not to "over-use" the pedal's on the ground and I
>don't press on them to get-out of the plane.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>BTW, If you're going to break your plane away from home, I would recommend
>that you do it at Oshkosh. The repair tent at Oshkosh was VERY helpful.
Some
>of the most helpful people on the planet (not to mention great welders). It
>was also nice to have Scott from Van's right there to ask so I could ask
>questions.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60 Price is $3200 |
Thanks. I have the GX-65 (not installed yet.) If the price were
significantly lower, I would buy yours and sell mine. But you can probably
get more for it by returning to Van's.
Tom Craig-Stearman
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 12:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: GX60 Price is $3200
>
>Subj: Re: RV-List: Save $400 on a still in the box GPS/COMM GX-60
>Date: 4/28/99 9:55:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>From: Kerrjb
>To: tcraigst(at)ionet.net. rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>In a message dated 4/27/99 11:17:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>tcraigst(at)ionet.net writes:
>
><<
> How much do you want for the GX-60?
>
> Tom Craig-Stearman
> love those new Apollos!
> >>
>
>
>Vans price is $3594 + shipping.I am either selling it within a week for
>$3200+ shipping or returning it to Vans for restocking price. Also included
>is a $50 CD ROM simulator program of the GX-60 for free.
>
>
>Bernie Kerr, 561-466-6701
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <edperry(at)access1.net> |
Hi Everybody,
For the builders in California wondering about sales tax on your kit, here's
what I learned after talking to the guy in charge of collections for the
state.
1. You owe sales tax for your kit purchase within one year of the purchase
date.
2. When you go to apply for an N-number you will have to produce a bill of
sale. If the date on the bill of sale is more than one year old you will be
charged penalties + interest for the additional time.
3. The 90 days out of state rule does not apply to kit aircraft. They say
it is because you will be building it in the state and used in the state.
4. If you buy your kit from a private party - second hand, there will be
no sales tax because the first person to buy the kit would have already paid
it.
5. No tax will be collected on other items purchased used. Engines,
Avionics, etc..
Unless you buy them from a dealer in California.
6. The only other way to avoid the sales tax is to not register your
airplane for 9 years from the date of purchase. 9 years it was not a
mistake and he explained it to me.
There was a lot more and he talked to me for about 20 minutes. I am still
going to check into the Delaware tax thing to see if I can avoid the sales
tax. If you want to get the info first hand here is how:
Robert McCann (916) 322-5485
State Board of Equalization-Aviation
He was very helpful and pleasant to talk to.
Ed Perry
edperry(at)access1.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 28 Apr 1999 19":59:55.-0000(at)matronics.com
halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
I don't understand. Can't these engines be
operated at lower throttle settings?
I would thing that running at 2700 rather than
2900 would still give 180 hp -
the RPM drop is about 7% so surely HP drop
would be less than 25.
hal
Hal,
The way a prop loads an engine, the power changes
as the cube of the rpm. At 93% RPM, the power
is 0.93*0.93*0.93 or about 80% power.
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PingoBingo <sadams(at)pingobingo.com> |
I am posting this for a friend, who wants to sell an O-360A4K , 950
SFRM, including mags and carb. for $10,995. This is a solid crank
engine, with aft mounted horizontal?? carbureter, and has had a prop
strike, from a parted out Beechcraft. Phone (509) 765-1606.
Bob Adams, -6A finishing, Wash.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source of large in-line fuses |
>I was looking for large in-line fuses and discovered a surprising source:
>mobile audio suppliers. Seems that the proliferation of multi-hundred watt
>amplifiers popular with cars that go boom-booming around town has created a
>market for large in-line fuses. Fuses in the range of 10A-100A and holders
>that accommodate 8awg and 4awg wire are common for this type of
>installation.
>
>So if you want to use an in-line fuse instead of a fusable link somewhere,
>this may be a useful place to look.
I have been watching some of these products and even ordered
a few items to looke them over. To date, I have no positive
recommendations for products I've seen. The lower current
fuses are large, tubular glass cartridges that require holders
with large area, low pressure contacts. I'm skeptical of the "gold"
finish on many of these parts as to it's value in maintaining
low contact resistance.
Wire attachement on many of the high-power mobil audio accesories
is by driving a screw laterally into a bundle of stranded wire . . .
okay for solid house wire but not Mil-W-22759 bizillioin strand
aircraft wire.
You can buy an automotive encarnation of the ANL series current
limiters which mount on threaded studs and attach wires using
conventionally applied ring terminals. I'l consider these for
use in airplanes. If anyone has some experience or engineering
data in support of specific products, I'd be pleased to hear
about it. For the moment, the majority of what I've seen in catalogs
and hanging on the racks in stores wasn't very exciting.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 28 Apr 1999 20":28:19.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Jig |
>
> I what to build a free standing Jig. I don't have a problem with space, but I
> would like to be able to move the jig around. The one problem that I have is
> that my ceiling is 10 foot tall. My shop is double duty as I use it for
> Lawnmower repair work that I do on a part time basis (RV-sponser) and would
> like to move the jig in when building. Does anyone have a good drawing for a
> free standing jig and what material did you use for construction. Thanks
> (will be ordering kit as soon as shop is equipped and ready)
> Mike Rawls
> Deer Park, TX.
> MRawls3896(at)aol.com
Mike,
You lucky guy, having a 10-foot overhead. Mine
is only 6'10, so I have to be carefull just turning
an elevator over. Since my ceiling was so low, it
was pretty easy to just attach the jig to the
ceiling.
Check out Chris Hinch's web page at
http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/
workshop.htm
to see his free standing jig. I think there may also
be one in "18 Years of the RV-Ator"
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>Hal,
>The way a prop loads an engine, the power changes
>as the cube of the rpm. At 93% RPM, the power
>is 0.93*0.93*0.93 or about 80% power.
Are you certain? As I recall:
HP = K * RPM * torque (where K is a constant)
If your prop loads the engine down slightly and the torque remains
relatively constant (it probably will if MAP is roughly the same), i.e.
only RPM varies, then HP will be approximately proportional to RPM. Our
engines have relatively flat torque curves so this *should* be the case.
OTOH I have made mistakes in the past so I could be making one here too.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
>
>Robert, please explain this to a dummy!
>
>What do you mean by "use an awl to open a pathway in the side of the
>braid close to the end of the outer jacket."
The braided outer conductor of the shielded wire will expand
if bunched up (like the Chineese finger trap we used to
play with as kids). By pushing the exposed stranding back
toward the outer insulating jacket, the strands get looser
with respect to each other. You can use a pointed tool to
tease a hole between the loosened strands right at the end
of the outer insulating jacket. You'll be able to see the
inner conductor through this hole.
By bending the braid and inner conductor over at the hole,
you can push the braid over the loop of inner conductor
and pull it out of the hole. Tug the braid out tight again
and you now have a neatly separated pair of conductors ready
to terminate as needed.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net> |
Louisiana
cecilth(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> Robert . . . . What State do you live in???
> Cecil
> Thousand Oaks, CA
>
> writes:
> >
> >Before you pay any sales/use tax you need to research the sales tax
> >law in your
> >state. For example in my state there is a three year statut of
> >limitation.
> >Therefore, since I bought my emp. and wing kit more than three years
> >prior to
> >receiving the letter from the state, I do not owe any use tax on the
> >emp. and
> >wings. Also, note that you do not owe use tax for any parts or
> >componts you
> >purchased in your state and already paid tax on. --- this may include
> >radois,
> >paint, etc. Finally, you want to check for any exemptions. As
> >previously
> >stated by others on the list, some states exempt a/c parts. One
> >common
> >exemption is for used items purchased from an individual not in th
> >business of
> >selling that item. Your used engine may fall in this category.
> >(Also, if you
> >bought you kit "used" the entire kit would be exempt.) Also, most
> >states give
> >credit for sales tax paid to other states. Purchases made at Sun n'
> >Fun are
> >subject to sales tax. Others may be as well.
> >
> >Robert Miller
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cdenk(at)ix.netcom.com.by.dfw-ix13.ix.netcom.com (8.8.4/8.8.4) |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: source of large in-line fuses |
Also check the electric forklift suppliers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
I confess to be more ignorant about propellors than I am about other things but
this does seem odd. When people convert the Chevy engine for the RV, they put
in a different cam that gives, among other things, a flatter torque curve at the
usual operating range, namely from cruise to max speed. That caused me to
assume that the Lycoming had a fairly flat torque curve in the upper range of
RPM. Unless the BMEP changed significantly, RPM and HP would then be
proportional at the upper RPM range.
Does it make a difference if prop is fixed pitch or constant speed?
hal
> I don't understand. Can't these engines be
> operated at lower throttle settings?
> I would thing that running at 2700 rather than
> 2900 would still give 180 hp -
> the RPM drop is about 7% so surely HP drop
> would be less than 25.
> hal
>
>
> Hal,
> The way a prop loads an engine, the power changes
> as the cube of the rpm. At 93% RPM, the power
> is 0.93*0.93*0.93 or about 80% power.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HIO-360
>
>>Hal,
>>The way a prop loads an engine, the power changes
>>as the cube of the rpm. At 93% RPM, the power
>>is 0.93*0.93*0.93 or about 80% power.
>
>Are you certain? As I recall:
>
> HP = K * RPM * torque (where K is a constant)
>
>If your prop loads the engine down slightly and the torque remains
>relatively constant (it probably will if MAP is roughly the same), i.e.
>only RPM varies, then HP will be approximately proportional to RPM. Our
>engines have relatively flat torque curves so this *should* be the case.
>
>OTOH I have made mistakes in the past so I could be making one here too.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
Inspection of Lycoming Operator's Manual Curve No. 9540-B Propeller Load BHP
vs RPM reveals a nearly linear function -- the curve is very slightly
concave upward but hardly a cubic function! The linear approximation is
valid.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Miles responded to me with:
> The way a prop loads an engine, the power changes
> as the cube of the rpm. At 93% RPM, the power
> is 0.93*0.93*0.93 or about 80% power.
It just dawned on me what is wrong here. I suggested that running the helo
engine at 2700 rather than the 2900. I assumed a prop that was either:
1 pitched to fully load the engine at this speed
2 constant speed
Just slowing to 2700 with a fixed pitch prop correct to fully load the engine at
2900 would result in a reduced BMEP.
If you have one of these engines, just pitch a prop to limit the engine to 2700
rpm. Better yet, change cams as someone else suggested.
However, I have never heard of this rule before. I assume it gives an
approximation. Where could one learn more about it??
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HIO-360 Engine Question |
In a message dated 4/28/99 11:04:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
<< For a fixed pitch prop; couldn't you get it pitched to run at 2900 max??
>>
How about adding a blade(three) to the prop, without cutting the length
down?? I would think that this would slow the Max RPM a bit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: source of large in-line fuses |
In a message dated 4/28/99 3:42:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> I have been watching some of these products and even ordered
> a few items to looke them over. To date, I have no positive
> recommendations for products I've seen. The lower current
> fuses are large, tubular glass cartridges that require holders
> with large area, low pressure contacts. I'm skeptical of the "gold"
> finish on many of these parts as to it's value in maintaining
> low contact resistance.
As someone who worked in the car audio field before moving up to bigger and
better things I can give some advice here. Almost all car audio fuses are
large glass tubular fuses with large area low pressure contacts. Some of the
fuses do have a gold finish some dont. There are some good companies out
there and then again there are ones that supply a look alike product to.
These parts do provide a good low contact resistance.
> Wire attachement on many of the high-power mobil audio accesories
> is by driving a screw laterally into a bundle of stranded wire . . .
> okay for solid house wire but not Mil-W-22759 bizillioin strand
> aircraft wire.
That depends on the attachment. Solid house wire, what are you talking
about. The premium cable that is used in car audio is bizillion strand too.
Cabling is shielded etc etc. Sorry but this wire can easily cost $10-$100 a
foot and more depending on the quality.
> You can buy an automotive encarnation of the ANL series current
> limiters which mount on threaded studs and attach wires using
> conventionally applied ring terminals. I'l consider these for
> use in airplanes. If anyone has some experience or engineering
> data in support of specific products, I'd be pleased to hear
> about it. For the moment, the majority of what I've seen in catalogs
> and hanging on the racks in stores wasn't very exciting.
> Bob . . .
>
If your interested in these types of products that would apply to an aircraft
good talk to an installer that does high end installs. Were talking about
5,000-50,000 car stereo. They will be able to give you good advice and
demonstate the products. The wiring should work in a plane. As the typical
car audio system will subject it to more vibration then a plane will. Also
some of the sound deading material should also work in a plane. Plus most of
the high end installers are wonderful craftsman and they might be willing to
help you out on the building or finishing of your plane for a ride.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: baby seat in a 6? |
I installed seat belt brackets in the aft portion of the baggage
compartment. There's *just* enough room back there for an infant
seat.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net> |
Listers,
Anyone have any experience with the RV builders workshop by Sportair?
Getting ready to begin construction and thought this might be a good source
of information. Any thoughts?
Charlie
Winter Haven, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Harvey Sigmon: Need help on converting 0-320-E2A. The Engine was
IO-320-B1A originally, but was converted to a 0-320-E2A/150 HP,
carburetor. I want to convert it back to a 160 HP but still use a
carburetor, but I don't know what pistons to use. I was thinking about
using the new pistons rated at 9.5 to 1.0. The engine only has about
643 Hours total time. Any body have any good advice on best approach.
Thanks in advance.
Harvey Sigmon: waiting on RV-6A QB kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How fast she go... Wink wink nudge nudge... |
Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
>
> My recently purchased RV-3...
>
> O-320-E2B converted to high compression 160 hp
> Warnke 72/74 prop
> Typical ramp weigth 1100lbs
>
> The previous owner (not the builder either) stated he could do 200mph max
> level (GPS and indicated no wind) and ~175MPH cruise. The best I can do is
> 170mph max and 150mph cruise. Van's litterature too states that a 150hp
> RV-3 should do 210 mph. The prop doesn't compare to what Van's suggests for
> a climb pitched, if anything it's in the cruise range. Does anyone else out
> there have my setup and can let me know what they get?
>
> Bruce Meacham
> RV-3 N3456B
>
>
Bruce
The 72x74 Warnke is a 180hp prop, it is the same one that i use on my
RV-6. You did not mention at what RPM you were running.
Jerry Springer
RV-6 First flight 7/14/89|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Nose Gear Replacement |
As insurance I decided to replace the nose gear leg with Van's new, and
stronger, nose gear leg.
It took two weeks, mostly transportation time, from when I sent it off to
Van's for "match" drilling, until the new one arrived last night. I
installed it with only very minor problems (needed to polish a minute burr
from one hole) and flew the plane without the gear fairing this afternoon
(the new fiberglass ones are on a bit of a backorder ...Van's estimated I'd
receive mine next month.)
Van included a comprehensive document that reviewed the "problem" and their
approaches to designing a better part. Very informative.
I feel better!
RV-6A Flying (again!)
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
just purchased an rv3a and need advice on parachutes. i weigh 210 lbs and 6
ft. i heard the paraphernalia softie chute would be a good one to use. does
anyone have an address or info on them. are there any used one's out there
dan carley
dfcpac(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
Hi Folks:
I have a question regarding the end ribs for the fuel tanks. Plans say to
dimple the rib rear flanges and corresponding holes in the baffle for the
root and tip ribs of the tank and use flush rivets here. Why????? I assume
that we are to dimple the baffle so that the rivet sits flush on the baffle
side of the joint, but I don't understand what for. Am I suffering from PSS
(pre-proseal syndrome), or what??! Can't seem to understand the need for
these rivets to be flush.
Sorry if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find a reference to it
in the archives.
Thanks
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Left wing tank
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>I am posting this for a friend, who wants to sell an O-360A4K , 950
>SFRM, including mags and carb. for $10,995. This is a solid crank
>engine, with aft mounted horizontal?? carbureter, and has had a prop
>strike, from a parted out Beechcraft. Phone (509) 765-1606.
> Bob Adams, -6A finishing, Wash.
Listers,
I just mounted my O-360A4J last night and it fits fine. HOWEVER, you
MUST change out the sump in this engine or the A4K so that the carb
will be on the bottom to work in the RV. This was done before I bought
it. As such, it is no longer a "certified" engine in this instance,
but that doesn't bother me one bit.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
engine mounted, exhaust done. Now, where to put the oil cooler...?
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
Hal,
The power being proportional to the cube of the speed only applies to fixed
pitch props.
I'm just an electrical engineer but I'll attempt to explain it the way it
was explained to by an aero engineer. Hope it makes sense:
Under the conditions that wings and propellers operate in the cruise regime,
force on an aerodynamic surface is proportional to the square of the
velocity (Bernoulli's theorem). Since torque is a rotational force and RPM
is a rotational velocity, then torque is proportional to the square of the
RPM. Power output of a rotating shaft is proportional to torque times RPM.
The product of a squared factor(torque) and a proportional factor(RPM) is a
cube factor (power). The same is true of the airplane as the propeller: It
takes roughly 8 times the power to double the speed.
With constant speed props you can change the power without changing
propeller speed at all; just move the throttle, and the prop angle will
change to adjust to the different torque output of the engine.
Hope this helps.
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi
Going to rivet right elevator skin this evening (I hope)
----- Original Message -----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HIO-360
>
> I confess to be more ignorant about propellors than I am about other
things but
> this does seem odd. When people convert the Chevy engine for the RV, they
put
> in a different cam that gives, among other things, a flatter torque curve
at the
> usual operating range, namely from cruise to max speed. That caused me to
> assume that the Lycoming had a fairly flat torque curve in the upper range
of
> RPM. Unless the BMEP changed significantly, RPM and HP would then be
> proportional at the upper RPM range.
>
> Does it make a difference if prop is fixed pitch or constant speed?
>
> hal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
dear builders,
I am the person who supplied Vans with the information on how to build and
install a capacitance fuel sender in the RV8. I will be happy to discuss
this installation with any of you on the telephone. Please do not ask me
to reply by Email, because I have very little time for playing with
computers. I can be reached most mornings @ 920 432 4845 between 0730 to
1130 cdt except wednesdays.
Dick Martin
80124 RV8
N233M
should be flying in 6 to 8 weeks
----------
> From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders
> Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 3:11 AM
>
>
>
> >
> >Just rec'd Van's new capacitance fuel senders. Has anyone installed
> >them yet and determined how to attach the wire from the plates to the
> >BNC connector?? Plan doesn't offer any suggestions??
> >
> >Jerry "elecronically challenged" Calvert
> >Edmond Ok -6a wings
> >
> >
> -
> I believe the BNC connecter supplied is one with a solder trough for
> soldering a wire to. I will try and remember to check.
> (Write me directly if you don't hear anything, I have been very sick all
> week and probably wont be back at work until monday).
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> Prior RV-6A owner
> North Plains Or.
> These opinions are mine alone, and do not necessarily
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: baby seat in a 6? |
> >
>
> Has anyone attempted to put a baby seat in the back of a 6. Did you
> tie it in or
> just place it there?
One was described to me not long ago.
They strapped it to the floor, backwards of course, dropped Jr. into it
and strapped him in. W&B was fine.
Their concern was the noise for the little guy. I think the first
flight was the last flight.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Wings and things
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
martin wrote:
>
>
> dear builders,
> I am the person who supplied Vans with the information on how to build and
> install a capacitance fuel sender in the RV8. I will be happy to discuss
> this installation with any of you on the telephone. Please do not ask me
> to reply by Email, because I have very little time for playing with
> computers. I can be reached most mornings @ 920 432 4845 between 0730 to
> 1130 cdt except wednesdays.
>
> Dick Martin
> 80124 RV8
> N233M
> should be flying in 6 to 8 weeks
>
> ----------
I had originally posted a message for help with the senders and
appreciate Dick's offer. I will definately call him. I sent an email
to Van's but Bill Benedict is the resident guru on the senders and he
was in Minnesota so I'm still waiting to hear from him.
These senders are very easy to install and incredibly simple! I hadn't
installed the SW senders yet so I sent them back for a credit after the
capacitance senders arrived. The plans(which are very good) don't offer
any suggestions on how to connect the BNC to the wire from the
capacitance plates though.
If you are going to use the EI fuel guage, the new senders are the way
to go!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 A1A Question |
Lister's,
I just purchased a IO-360 A1A. I have contracted to a local Dallas FAA
repair station to do a major overhaul in accordance with Lyc overhaul manual
using "new parts dimensional limits" in accordance with Lyc SB240. In
addition new pistons will be installed. The engine will be test run in a
test cell as well.
Have I missed anything, short of doing the work myself.
Please advise......Mark
Mark Steffensen
Allen, TX 75013
email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
8A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source of large in-line fuses |
>As someone who worked in the car audio field before moving up to bigger and
>better things I can give some advice here. Almost all car audio fuses are
>large glass tubular fuses with large area low pressure contacts. Some of
the
>fuses do have a gold finish some dont. There are some good companies out
>there and then again there are ones that supply a look alike product to.
>These parts do provide a good low contact resistance.
In this kind of market, there are bound to be some exemplarly
suppliers of product . . . they can be difficult to identify.
In any case, I have real problems with low contact pressure fuse
holders of any quality.
>
>> Wire attachement on many of the high-power mobil audio accesories
>> is by driving a screw laterally into a bundle of stranded wire . . .
>> okay for solid house wire but not Mil-W-22759 bizillioin strand
>> aircraft wire.
>
>That depends on the attachment. Solid house wire, what are you talking
>about. The premium cable that is used in car audio is bizillion strand
too.
>Cabling is shielded etc etc. Sorry but this wire can easily cost $10-$100 a
>foot and more depending on the quality.
I've not seen any product that attaches wires to fuseholders
by any means other than a set-screw. I suppose you could solder
them on but the wire-cups are large and depend on the setscrew
to close the gap and grab the stranding.
>If your interested in these types of products that would apply to an
aircraft
>good talk to an installer that does high end installs. Were talking about
>5,000-50,000 car stereo. They will be able to give you good advice and
>demonstate the products. The wiring should work in a plane. As the typical
>car audio system will subject it to more vibration then a plane will. Also
>some of the sound deading material should also work in a plane.
I'll stop in and visit some shops next time I'm out and have
the time. My observations are based on some products I ordered
from several of my wholesale electronics suppliers. I carry
samples of the products I received in my travel kit of hardware
for weekend seminars. As I mentioned, of the pieces I've seen
so far, only the ANL clones I spoke of above would be useful.
That doesn't mean there are not others but from three different
suppliers, I didn't see anything very useful.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source of large in-line fuses |
>
>
>>
>>
>>>... mobil audio ... Fuses in the range of 10A-100A and holders
>>
>> I have been watching some of these products and even ordered
>> a few items to looke them over. To date, I have no positive
>> recommendations for products I've seen.
>
>Oh well. It was a short-lived idea.
Keep watching . . . I've had several e-mail responses from
folk who choose to defend some products they've seen. To date,
I've not seen any but that doesn't mean they're not out there.
If anyone comes across some specific items of interest, I'll
like to hear about them. I'll order samples and see what they
look like.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How fast she go... Wink wink nudge nudge... |
> My recently purchased RV-3...
>
> O-320-E2B converted to high compression 160 hp
> Warnke 72/74 prop
> Typical ramp weigth 1100lbs
>
> The previous owner (not the builder either) stated he could do 200mph max
> level (GPS and indicated no wind) and ~175MPH cruise. The best I can do is
> 170mph max and 150mph cruise. Van's litterature too states that a 150hp
> RV-3 should do 210 mph. The prop doesn't compare to what Van's suggests
for
> a climb pitched, if anything it's in the cruise range. Does anyone else
out
> there have my setup and can let me know what they get?
>
> Bruce Meacham
> RV-3 N3456B
Hello Bruce,
Is that 170 mph as indicated on your airspeed indicator??
My typical flying is 140 mph indicated (economy cruise). Which is 165 mph
true at the altitude I normally cruise (7,500' to 9,500').
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
>>
>>
>> Wire shielding requirments for pistion airplanes fall into
>> two categories . . .
> In particular, shielding of alternator wiring is ineffective in
>> controlling the noises that alternators generate.
>
>Bob, are you saying that we don't need to sheild the Alternator Output
wire as all of the schematics specify?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Brian Eckstein
That is correct. I was at Cessna in 1960's when they added
some shielding to the alternator systems of airplanes that
were to receive ADF installations. I recall asking the engineers
at the time what the rational was for doing this. They
said that it seems to reduce alternator noise a little but
no difinitive measurements were made. Further, the capacitor
added to the back of the alternator with the same kit may
have been responsable for ALL of the preceived noise reduction.
In any case, the whole world looked at what Cessna was doing
on tens of thousands of airplanes and thought it MUST be
a good thing to do.
35 years later ADFs are gone, we KNOW that the kind of noise
an alternator puts out doesn't radiate from it's wiring rather
is CONDUCTED or MAGNETICALLY coupled which means that shielded
wires are useless in this application. None the less, the
notion is very strong that what was good for thousands of
Cessnas must be good for everybody else even if we don't
understand how it's supposed to work (and Cessna's folk
didn't either).
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> engine mounted, exhaust done. Now, where to put the oil cooler...?
>
On the left rear baffle, of course!
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO
RV-6A - Replacing left flap brace that I thought was installed right years ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Paperwork |
Not too long ago I went through this with Van's. Van's would provide a copy of
the original Bill of Sale but nothing else. I had to have a paper trail from the
subsequent owners before they would buy off on my application.
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Randy,
> > If you call Van's and request it, they will send you an FAA bill
> of sale
> >for an aircraft kit and plans with Van's original signature. I think
> you
> >probably have to have purchased all the subkits for your aircraft
> first.
> >
> >Dale Wotring
>
> Also, make sure you state EXACTLY what aircraft description
> terminology you used when you applied for the N number. For example,
> for my plane, I called it a "Denk RV-8"....since I am the builder. A
> local builder had his registration application bounced back because
> what Van's put on his bill of sale wasn't the same as what he put on
> the N number reservation application. So, tell the folks at Van's
> precisely what to put on the form, including serial number, and all
> should go well with the Feds.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> just mounted engine!
>
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Argus 7000 Moving Map For Sale |
I'm posting this for a friend. Please contact him directly.
For Sale:
Argus 7000 Moving Map new w/install kit
3" x 5" Display
$4500
Contact Phil 925-830-8410 CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
On the encouragement from Andy Hanna I continued past Lakeland this year to
the Abacos.(Bahamas) Of the dozen or so airplanes at Marsh Harbour two were
RV's, one ending in "RB" from CA I believe and the other from OH. I'd like
to hear from them if they are on the list. We ended up taking a ferry to
Hope Town and had a blast snorkeling and kicking back for 3 days. After
filing all those documents because of the experimental status we found that
no one checked or even cared. They didn't even check our luggage, Bahamas
or US. Fuel is $2/gal in the Bahamas, a nice surprise and all the resorts
give 10% discount to pilots if they ask. Next year we may head further
down the islands. kevin rv6A 500 hrs
n3773(at)mciworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller pitch |
<< Was talking to a fellow that was trying to sell his RV. He was not the
builder and was unable to tell me the diameter or pitch of his propeller. I
think that I can figure the diameter, but how does one determine the pitch?
I guess it is marked somewhere on the prop, but for the sake of this
question, lets assume it isn't.
>>
Bruce,
Even if you knew the pitch it wouldnt really tell you anything.
Each prop manufacturer measures differently. It might give you a rough guess
but thats about it. There is no way to tell without looking, usually the
length and pitch are stamped on the hub somewhere. What you need to know is
best climb rate, top end rpm, and say your cruise speed at around 2500 rpm.
When you come up with those numbers someone will be able to tell you if what
you have is about right or not.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
Ok, I want to put in a vote for one cheapie rivet sqeezer. I have found
the US Industrial Tool & Supply Co. squeezer #TP116 to sqeeze up the #4
rivets perfectly. Granted it does not have the removeable yolk, but it
was a fraction of the cost and included the AN470 and flush rivet sets.
Doug Gray
RV-6 wings, in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 C1E6 Question |
Listers
Would any one know if an IO -360-C1E6 would fit into an RV6, The prop gov is
in the front, and it has angled valves. It is the same engine that is in my
Seneca 1. My thinking is I am almost at TBO on my left engine, Just
replaced the right one last year, I would like to buy a factory re-man for
the Seneca and have the existing one overhauled for the RV6.
Any and all suggestion would be helpfull -
Except the one my X-wife says " Give up Flying "
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings Closed & Waiting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: baby seat in a 6? |
You had better check with an attorney. Just placing the seat there with out
securingit in place could open up a can of worms. Endangering the welfare of
a minor is one that comes to mind real fast. The have arrested several
people in NY State for not having Car Seats secured in vehicles, they would
have a field day with aircraft.
Just a thought
BSivori(at)AOL.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 C1E6 Question |
We have purchased an IO-360 C1E6 for our RV-8A from Dick Waters and he
changed the sump to an A1B6 config. You may want to contact him at
(800) 366-4746 to get an idea of exactly whats involved in the
conversion process. I believe this is the same engine that's in Van's
RV-8A, since their governor is also on the front of the case.
Regarding the fit in a RV-6, I would think that Van's Tech Support
should be able to answer that question.
Good Luck,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A QB
Niantic, CT
>From: BSivori(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 C1E6 Question
>Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 06:22:49 EDT
>
>
>Listers
>
>Would any one know if an IO -360-C1E6 would fit into an RV6, The
prop gov is
>in the front, and it has angled valves. It is the same engine that
is in my
>Seneca 1. My thinking is I am almost at TBO on my left engine, Just
>replaced the right one last year, I would like to buy a factory
re-man for
>the Seneca and have the existing one overhauled for the RV6.
>
>Any and all suggestion would be helpfull -
>
>Except the one my X-wife says " Give up Flying "
>
>BSivori(at)AOL.COM
>N929RV ( Reserved )
>Wings Closed & Waiting
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 A1A Question |
Mark,
You should have the Fuel injection unit yellow tagged, possibly
overhauled. You should also consider overhauling your prop governor if
it has 2000+ hours on it. Also this would be a good time to upgrade
your alternator and starter to light weight units, if you currently
have the heavy prestolite units.
Good Luck,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A awaiting QB
Niantic, CT
**************************************
>From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 A1A Question
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:12:38 -0500
>
>
>Lister's,
>
>I just purchased a IO-360 A1A. I have contracted to a local Dallas
FAA
>repair station to do a major overhaul in accordance with Lyc overhaul
manual
>using "new parts dimensional limits" in accordance with Lyc SB240. In
>addition new pistons will be installed. The engine will be test run
in a
>test cell as well.
>
>Have I missed anything, short of doing the work myself.
>
>Please advise......Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>Allen, TX 75013
>email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
>8A Fuselage
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
-----
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
I am guessing - but I'd say it was because #3 rivets are called for and
Vans only supply flush #3's. If you have #3 470's, I can't see where
they would interfere with anything on my RV4 wing.
> I have a question regarding the end ribs for the fuel tanks. Plans say to
> dimple the rib rear flanges and corresponding holes in the baffle for the
> root and tip ribs of the tank and use flush rivets here. Why????? I assume
> that we are to dimple the baffle so that the rivet sits flush on the baffle
> side of the joint, but I don't understand what for. Am I suffering from PSS
> (pre-proseal syndrome), or what??! Can't seem to understand the need for
> these rivets to be flush.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 C1E6 Question |
<< Would any one know if an IO -360-C1E6 would fit into an RV6, The prop gov
is
in the front, and it has angled valves. It is the same engine that is in my
Seneca 1. My thinking is I am almost at TBO on my left engine, Just
replaced the right one last year, I would like to buy a factory re-man for
the Seneca and have the existing one overhauled for the RV6.
Any and all suggestion would be helpfull -
>>
I recall the Sam James -6 cowl is for this motor. It should fit fine, and the
fwd gov will be a bonus -- no line to break! You will have to figure out how
to get the inlet air around the thing, tho...cabling is easy.
Your battery will mount further aft, but there are many operators with this
setup for you to query about that aspect.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Jim,
I'm relying on memory here, but aren't there rivets along the firewall angle
that run behind the box? You won't be able to buck those rivets with the
battery box mounted.
If your question is one of should you fit the battery box and mount the
nutplates to the stiffener angles before you rivet the skin on, the answer
is definitely yes.
BTW, I am in the process of painting. There are only two things I don't
have mounted yet. The battery box and the bottom forward skin. Until I'm
ready to prime the fuselage, I don't intend to mount that skin. I do not
look forward to having to crawl upside down on my back to reach under the
panel.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
>
>Listers,
> I am building a 6 taildragger. Should the battery box be installed
before
>the last forward bottom skin is riveted on?
> Thanks
>Jim Callender
>Hitchcock, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hugh Roberton <hrr(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sunburn.....Thanks |
Thanks to Marty, John, Ralph, Marshall, Randall and Thomas for your interesting
and helpful
replies.
Hugh
--
Hugh Roberton
Melbourne
Australia
Dreaming of RV's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SAABPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | removal from list |
pls remove me from the list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
Hi Jerry:
Just ordered my capacitance senders yesterday. Perhaps you could relay to
the group what you find out from Dick regarding connecting the BNC to the
plates. That way, he can concentrate on getting his -8 in the air and not
be smothered with questions from the list. Might get a bit old for him to
keep answering the same question.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV 6A 25171
left wing tank
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders
>
>
>martin wrote:
>>
>>
>> dear builders,
>> I am the person who supplied Vans with the information on how to build
and
>> install a capacitance fuel sender in the RV8. I will be happy to
discuss
>> this installation with any of you on the telephone. Please do not ask me
>> to reply by Email, because I have very little time for playing with
>> computers. I can be reached most mornings @ 920 432 4845 between 0730
to
>> 1130 cdt except wednesdays.
>>
>> Dick Martin
>> 80124 RV8
>> N233M
>> should be flying in 6 to 8 weeks
>>
>> ----------
>
> I had originally posted a message for help with the senders and
>appreciate Dick's offer. I will definately call him. I sent an email
>to Van's but Bill Benedict is the resident guru on the senders and he
>was in Minnesota so I'm still waiting to hear from him.
>
>These senders are very easy to install and incredibly simple! I hadn't
>installed the SW senders yet so I sent them back for a credit after the
>capacitance senders arrived. The plans(which are very good) don't offer
>any suggestions on how to connect the BNC to the wire from the
>capacitance plates though.
>
>If you are going to use the EI fuel guage, the new senders are the way
>to go!
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA44)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> |
I attended the 2 day workshop by Henry Gorgas, about 1.5 mi south
of Van's. I learned most all basic practices, and had the confidence
to start my -8A when I arrived home. I recommend this class.
Doug Gardner -8A 80717 Fuselage
Palm Harbor Fla.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Oglesby [mailto:coglesby(at)ithink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV workshop
Listers,
Anyone have any experience with the RV builders workshop by Sportair?
Getting ready to begin construction and thought this might be a good source
of information. Any thoughts?
Charlie
Winter Haven, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)megsinet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
Jeff Orear wrote:
> have a question regarding the end ribs for the fuel tanks. Plans say to
> dimple the rib rear flanges and corresponding holes in the baffle for the
> root and tip ribs of the tank and use flush rivets here. Why????? I assume
> that we are to dimple the baffle so that the rivet sits flush on the baffle
> side of the joint, but I don't understand what for. Am I suffering from PSS
> (pre-proseal syndrome), or what??! Can't seem to understand the need for
> these rivets to be flush.
They need to be flush because (at least in my kit) you don't have any universal
head #3 rivets. Of course, you could always get some; I don't think it would
matter.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: baby seat in a 6? |
In a message dated 4/28/99, 3:07:27 PM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
The problem is getting the child in and out. I don't think there is more than
12 or 15 inches of space between the top of the seats and canopy. I
frequently take my children flying in my RV (now 4 and 7 but as young as 2,
my 4 year old loves acro) but I sit them in a booster seat strapped in at the
passenger location using the four point harness.
You'll just have to wait for the RV-X four seater!!! I know I am.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | N-Number reserved |
Folks,
Just a note to let everyone know that this stuff works...
Checking the archives - I found database checking, phone numbers, and
addresses for N-Number information.
Using this, I was able to compile my list of possibles, verify which
ones are in use/reserved and request a reservation for myself.
Worked like a charm,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Emp Dallas
N822AR reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wd-643 position on F6108 |
Could someone who has built the sliding canopy please email me with the
position of the flange on Wd-643 relative to rib F-6108. Does it go on the
right side requiring that you either cut a slot in or remove the flange on
F-6108 in that area, or does it go on the left side? If it goes on the left
side, what do you do with the piece of angle that bolts to the Wd-643 and
connects to the firewall? The drawings are inconsistent with hidden lines
being shown in places, but in other places, it appears you are supposed
to bend the angle around the flange.
Please email me direct since I am no longer on the list.
Thanks.
Doug Medema, RV-6A, working on sliding canopy.
dmedema@physio-control.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
Dan,
Almost all of the emergency chutes out there are of extremely high
quality. I would stay away from Security chutes. They had an AD on them
a number of years back because a treatment used to preserve the lines was
destroying the canopy or the other way around. I have two National
360's, one seat and one back and I am quite happy with the quality and
comfort of them.
If at all possible, try several different chutes in your plane before
purchasing. You might want to go to an aerbatic contest where every type
an size of chute will be there and try out severl different ones.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
>
>just purchased an rv3a and need advice on parachutes. i weigh 210 lbs
>and 6
>ft. i heard the paraphernalia softie chute would be a good one to use.
>does
>anyone have an address or info on them. are there any used one's out
>there
>
>dan carley
>
>dfcpac(at)aol.com
>
>
>
---
>
---
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 A1A Question |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
I am curious as to how much they are going to charge you for the
overhaul?
writes:
>
>
>Lister's,
>
>I just purchased a IO-360 A1A. I have contracted to a local Dallas
>FAA
>repair station to do a major overhaul in accordance with Lyc overhaul
>manual
>using "new parts dimensional limits" in accordance with Lyc SB240. In
>addition new pistons will be installed. The engine will be test run in
>a
>test cell as well.
>
>Have I missed anything, short of doing the work myself.
>
>Please advise......Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>Allen, TX 75013
>email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
>8A Fuselage
>
>
>
---
>
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>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
Doug Gray wrote:
>
>
> Ok, I want to put in a vote for one cheapie rivet sqeezer. I have found
> the US Industrial Tool & Supply Co. squeezer #TP116 to sqeeze up the #4
> rivets perfectly. Granted it does not have the removeable yolk, but it
> was a fraction of the cost and included the AN470 and flush rivet sets.
>
> Doug Gray
> RV-6 wings, in Oz.
I have a US Industrial rivet squeezer model TP (somthing) with removable
yolks held on with roll pins. It is absolutely no good for squeezing
rivets!! I use it occasionally for dimpling. AVOID THIS MODEL!!
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6a - fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
jeff,
dimple for shear strength, plus the proseal will have more surface area to
grip on and sealing over flush heads are easier ( at least i think so )
scott
was winging in tampa
now con-fusealaged
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Replacement |
FWIW I really didn't notice until this morning that the new RV-6A nose gear
replacement puts the nose higher, and consequently the tail lower, than the
old gear leg. I am uncertain why Van did this, but I suppose he had
something in mind. The information he sent did not refer to this. I am going
to e-mail Van's and ask that he make comment on the higher nose angle in the
next RVAtor.
It flies fine, and takes off and lands OK, but the tail is really lower - I
would estimate at least 5-inches when looking at the horizontal stabilizer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Replacement |
Just replaced mine as well... didn't notice that the tail was lower. Will
take a good look later today. Please post any response that you get from
Van's.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Replacement |
Hi John,
Can you please keep us informed on this subject, I was thinking
about replacing my Nose Gear in the future ( I did the inspection and
all is find) but this new information could definitly make me change
my mind. You could reply to me directly if you wish but I think that
others would be interested as well. Thanks
Marc Guay
Ottawa Canada
RV-6A 65 hours
>From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6A Nose Gear Replacement
>Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:21:34 -0600
>
>
>FWIW I really didn't notice until this morning that the new RV-6A
nose gear
>replacement puts the nose higher, and consequently the tail lower,
than the
>old gear leg. I am uncertain why Van did this, but I suppose he had
>something in mind. The information he sent did not refer to this. I
am going
>to e-mail Van's and ask that he make comment on the higher nose angle
in the
>next RVAtor.
>
>It flies fine, and takes off and lands OK, but the tail is really
lower - I
>would estimate at least 5-inches when looking at the horizontal
stabilizer.
>
>
>
-----
>
-----
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
If you have no experience with metal or tools to work with metal they are
very helpful. I attended one but had previously built the empennage for the
RV4 some time ago. I was a little disappointed.
Len (N.Cl)
finishing RV8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 29 Apr 1999 20":37:17.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Tax info and Delaware incorporation(long) |
Here is the brain dump from my friend who
incorporated in Delaware and registered his
airplane to that corporation. It is long, but
contains some good info. For those not concerned
with the California tax issue, there is still some
good info in the last three paragraphs concerning
Delaware incorporation and liability protection.
Miles
Tehachapi, CA
Here goes...
"There are two tax issues....sales tax and property
tax.
First the sales tax. This tax is due on sales of
aircraft that occur in California unless the seller
sends in an affidavit signed by the buyer that the
aircraft is being removed from the state. The
amount is the same percentage of the reported
sales price as for that pack of gum you bought at
the gas station. Aircraft brokers and others in the
business of selling airplanes have the forms and
are used to people buying planes in the name of a
corporate entity from a state with little or no
sales tax on airplanes. Whether the airplane
leaves California, permanently, is between the
owner and his conscience. As for private sales in
the state, I believe the state tax people have a
source of intelligence on when these sales take
place. They probably scan public FAA records for
changes in ownership. Since California does not
have a requirement to register aircraft (yet) I
can't see any other way they find out. I am
virtually certain that the FAA does not purposely
notify states of sales. I have heard people tell me
that when the state tax people find or suspect a
private sale has occurred they contact the seller
first to collect the money. It's probably easier to
get the seller to own up to the sale and price than
the buyer. I can't imagine how the state would
assess this kind of tax on a homebuilet that was
"created" in the state. But if you buy your
neighbor's RV-x, I'm sure they same rules apply
as with production iron.
Now for the other tax...Property. This is the
more onerous one in my opinion as it is collected
for virtually the entire life of the airplane and
the money is spent on decidedly non-aviation
issues. To be "eligible" to pay this tax, it doesn't
matter who owns the aircraft...only that it is
located at a public-use airport in California. I
have heard horror stories of folks from other
states receiving California tax bills based on the
fact that their airplane was in California when the
"census" was taken...even if they were just here
on vacation. This "accounting" takes place once
each year (rumored to be in early March) and is
done by airport managers, hangar leasing agents,
and others whom the state knows harbor
airplanes. Thus, if you have your airplane in a
hangar on private property, you stand a good
chance of avoiding this bill. The amount of the tax
liability is determined exactly the same as your
house or other real property...a percentage of the
"assessed" value. This percentage was set by Prop
13 in the early 70s at 1%. Since then, of course,
county and local governments have tacked on small
percentages for bond issues, etc. Currently, the
rate in LA County is about 1.25%. They get the
assessed value from one of two sources...the
owner, or one of the aircraft "blue books". Your
first inkling that they are on your trail is when
you receive a post card from the state asking you
to verify that you own N12345 and to list detailed
info on airframe and engine type/hours, avionics,
and other mods or improvements. They will send
this query to the address they got from the FAA
registration records. They also have a spot for
you to list the sale price you paid and when/where
you bought it. This info is used to determine the
value. If you don't return the card, or attempt to
downplay the value beyond what they think is
reasonable they can use the blue book. I have been
told by these people that they do not pass any of
the sale/price info to the sales tax office.
Anyway, a few months after returning the card,
you get a bill from the state (usually in the
summer) for the past years assessment. I have it
on good authority that ignoring that bill will earn
you a visit from the Sheriff and/or an unfamiliar
padlock on your hangar. One way to avoid this tax
is to have an "antique" airplane that is publicly
displayed. I don't know the details of this type of
exemption, but I think the airplane has to be over
25 years old and be "displayed" at least once a
month. (This is the reason that Santa Paula
airport has an monthly "open hangar" day.)
Another way to avoid the tax is to vacate your
tiedown/hangar just before the census and remove
the airplane from the state for some period. This
seems like it would be quite a hassle. I also
understand that airplanes kept out here at the
AeroClub don't get taxed because they're not
technically on California property. Finally, you
could hole up on your own spread like some
survivalist and not tell the state about your plane.
I don't think homebuilders have to worry about
this tax until the airplane has an "N" number and
is spending most of its time at an airport. Once it
was reported to the state, I suspect the same
process would apply.
I did form a Delaware corporation with the
express purpose of avoiding as much tax liability
as I could. I used a company called Delaware
Registry, Ltd. They are one of several firms
specializing in this type of corporation who
advertise in the aviation publications. The
process was simple, I just called up 800-321-
2677 (they have a web page too: http://
www.delreg.com/air.html), gave them the name
of the corporation, the officers, how many shares
I wanted to establish, and a credit card. By that
afternoon I was a legal corporation. Delaware has
no sales or use tax on airplanes (or boats, as I
found they also deal with). The corporation can be
"blind". That means that the officers of the
corporation are not listed in any public records.
The cost for setup was $275 the first year and
about $175 each year thereafter. The annual cost
paid the state of Delaware to maintain the
corporation on the record, and for Delaware
Registry to serve as the corporate "agent". As
agent, they also provide a mail forwarding service
so you get love notes from the FAA, the aircraft
manufacturer, and, of course, the California tax
people.
The other good reason to form the corporation is
to provide liability protection. This could mean
the difference between losing your airplane and
losing everything you own in a legal action.
I believe the corporation has protected me from
sales tax liability, however, it has not saved me
from paying property taxes. When I formed the
company to get the government contract I
currently have, I sold the airplane to the new
company (a CA limited liabilty company - LLC)
for the income tax advantage. Since the sale was
not conducted in California (technically, in
Delaware) I don't believe I will have any sales tax
exposure. The property tax issue was unaffected.
Once the sale went through, I dissolved the
Delaware corporation as it had served its
purpose."
________________________________________________________________________________
It would seem to me that the best location for the oil cooler would be mounted
low on the right side of the firewall and cooled with a big hose run from the
baffles. This would allow the waste heat to be eliminated most easily and quickly.
Mounting on the rear of the baffle will result in blowing lots of heat
right into an area I want to keep as cool as possible for mags, fuel pump, gascolator.
Any thoughts/experiences?
Brian Eckstein
6A Finishing
----------
>
>
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> > engine mounted, exhaust done. Now, where to put the oil cooler...?
> >
>
> On the left rear baffle, of course!
>
> Gary Zilik
> Pine Junction, CO
> RV-6A - Replacing left flap brace that I thought was installed right years
> ago.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Capacitance Fuel Senders |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jerry:
>
> Just ordered my capacitance senders yesterday. Perhaps you could relay to
> the group what you find out from Dick regarding connecting the BNC to the
> plates. That way, he can concentrate on getting his -8 in the air and not
> be smothered with questions from the list. Might get a bit old for him to
> keep answering the same question.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV 6A 25171
> left wing tank
> Peshtigo, WI
>
Jeff,
I will do that and also will share what Van's tells me(hopefully the
same thing!).
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that vibration is the no. 1
cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted the oil cooler on the
lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two 2" scat hoses to it,
one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect for me so far. I have
the cooler mounted close enough to the lower cowling outlet that I should
have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream air helping to 'pull'
air through the cooler.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>It would seem to me that the best location for the oil cooler would be
>mounted low on the right side of the firewall and cooled with a big
>hose run from the baffles. This would allow the waste heat to be
>eliminated most easily and quickly. Mounting on the rear of the
>baffle will result in blowing lots of heat right into an area I want
>to keep as cool as possible for mags, fuel pump, gascolator. Any
>thoughts/experiences?
>
>Brian Eckstein
>6A Finishing
>
>----------
>>
>>
>>
>> > Brian Denk
>> > RV8 N94BD
>> > engine mounted, exhaust done. Now, where to put the oil cooler...?
>> >
>>
>> On the left rear baffle, of course!
>>
>> Gary Zilik
>> Pine Junction, CO
>> RV-6A - Replacing left flap brace that I thought was installed right
>years
>> ago.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded Wire? |
>> In particular, shielding of alternator wiring is ineffective in
>>> controlling the noises that alternators generate.
> That is correct. . Further, the capacitor
> added to the back of the alternator with the same kit may
> have been responsable for ALL of the preceived noise reduction.
>
Bob,
So what about the capacitor. Will it help reduce any noise in the
intercom, radio, etc, system if we install one. A friend of mine
recommended that I install a capacitor in the system along with the
shielded wire from the alternator.
So? Whatdoyathink O wise one?
Thanks.
Wes Hays
RV6a
Wiring Avionics
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net> |
b green wrote:
>
>
> Dan,
>
> Almost all of the emergency chutes out there are of extremely high
> quality. I would stay away from Security chutes. They had an AD on them
> a number of years back because a treatment used to preserve the lines was
> destroying the canopy or the other way around. I have two National
> 360's, one seat and one back and I am quite happy with the quality and
> comfort of them.
>
Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chriskelhand(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
Speaking of the #3 rivets, I goofed and drilled these same holes with a
#30 drill bit. Anybody see a problem with using the #4 426 rivets here?
Or even just using the blind rivets used on the inner ribs?
The left tank is just cleco'd together for now, waiting until the right
wing catches up.
I know the plans are clear on the rivet callouts here, and the
construction notes I got off the internet also mention this, but I
managed to keep drilling without thinking, so...
Thanks for any advice.
Chris Hand
RV6A, working on wings
Monterey, CA area
>
>I am guessing - but I'd say it was because #3 rivets are called for
>and
>Vans only supply flush #3's. If you have #3 470's, I can't see where
>they would interfere with anything on my RV4 wing.
>
>
>> I have a question regarding the end ribs for the fuel tanks. Plans
>say to
>> dimple the rib rear flanges and corresponding holes in the baffle
>for the
>> root and tip ribs of the tank and use flush rivets here. Why?????
>I assume
>> that we are to dimple the baffle so that the rivet sits flush on the
>baffle
>> side of the joint, but I don't understand what for. Am I suffering
>from PSS
>> (pre-proseal syndrome), or what??! Can't seem to understand the
>need for
>> these rivets to be flush.
>>
>
>
>
---
>
---
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers
I am about to install my primer fittings and associated hardware. Upon
looking closely at my fittings, which I bought from ACS, I am puzzled about
the connection to the fitting. The fitting itself is slightly concave where
the 1/8" tube fits, and the tube slides into the fitting about 3/8 to 1/2
in. I have compression ferrules which would appear to fit to the fitting,
but the nut which holds all this together has a square shoulder which bears
down on the ferrule. This shoulder has a fairly sharp edge. Is this the way
this assy is designed or should the nut have a tapered shoulder to help
compress the ferrule. My feeling is that it should be tapered so the ferrule
will compress onto the tube.
Can anyone enlighten me ?????
Ted
RV-6A panel, wiring, engine fittings, and paint left.
Prince George BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>
>The only rudder pedal tube failures I have heard of here at LVK are on
>
>taildraggers. I think that there is more force put on the taildragger
>pedals
>than on the trigears. Another theory is that pilots were pushing on
>the
>pedals to help them get up out of the seat.
>
>-GV
>
-
>From what I have seen this is as likely (and maybe more so) to be a
problem with RV-6A's as it is with 6's.
Many pilots new to an RV-6A are not accustomed to flying an airplane that
has a free castoring nose wheel. They sometimes get in the habit of
using the brakes to steer a lot more than necessary.
What ends up happening is the pilot is pushing hard on both peddles
putting a lot of load on both.
It is possible to exert a lot of force with your legs pushing.
If you push an equal amount on each peddle it is the same as no rudder
input, but pressure is still applied to the peddles. Then add to that
some brake input on one side or the other and the loads can begin
going way beyond what would be typical.
Both styles of RV-6(A) peddles were tested and found to easily meet FAR
part 23 requirements with out any modification, Van worked up a
re-enforcement mod. that is available to builders to re-enforce their
peddle assemblies since some pilots still seem to be breaking them.
If you are new to flying an RV, or even if you have been for quite a
while I suggest the next time you fly you do the following.
When taxiing try and notice if you are just resting your feet on the
floor with your toes lightly pushing on the peddles as/when required for
rudder input and then further for the brakes.
While in flight are you just pushing on a peddle when you need rudder or
are both feet always on the peddles with more pressure than necessary.
The amount of pressure required to break the weldment is way beyond the
amount of pressure required to apply full rudder deflection or pressure
on the brake peddles for hard breaking.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: baby seat in a 6? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Has anyone attempted to put a baby seat in the back of a 6. Did you
>tie it in or
>just place it there?
>
>Andy
>
>
Andy,
My RV-6A had a childs car seat mounted in the baggage area.
There are a number of others presently flying with the same.
I wont go into any detail because there is info in the archives about it
(details of how I did it, child size and age issues, hearing protection,
etc.).
If you have no access to the archive, and you are interested in more
information E-mail me directly.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>It would seem to me that the best location for the oil cooler would be
>mounted low on the right side of the firewall and cooled with a big
>hose run from the baffles. This would allow the waste heat to be
>eliminated most easily and quickly. Mounting on the rear of the
>baffle will result in blowing lots of heat right into an area I want
>to keep as cool as possible for mags, fuel pump, gascolator. Any
>thoughts/experiences?
>
>Brian Eckstein
>6A Finishing
>
>----------
First lesson in airplane building...What would "seem" to be the best
answer to an airplane building question very often isn't.
The amount of heat in the entire lower cowling as the result of air that
has passed through the oil cooler is very small compared to the heat from
the air that has passed through the cooling fins of the engine cylinders.
Experience has shown that the most efficient location is on the rear
baffle. Not every builder may need the most efficient oil cooler
installation (because of there geographical location), but you never know
when you might find yourself going through 10,000 ft climbing out of
Gallupe New Mexico in the middle of July after being on the ground only
30 minutes for a fuel/potty stop (can you say heat soaked).
In this type of situation you will wish you had the most efficient
cooling system possible, regardless of where you live.
Something I read recently that struck me as beings so very true.
"One flight test is worth 100 expert opinions".
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that vibration is the
>no. 1
>cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted the oil cooler on
>the
>lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two 2" scat hoses to it,
>one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect for me so far. I
>have
>the cooler mounted close enough to the lower cowling outlet that I
>should
> have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream air helping to
>'pull'
>air through the cooler.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Von,
You may very well be just fine with that installation, but I believe you
have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level you have yet flight
test with is just short of 80 deg F.
The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be significant.
Now add to that passenger and payload that will bring you up to gross
weight.
This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle of attack and
possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now while flying solo
(light).
Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft MSL at the airport
you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as I am sure everyone
knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the oil cooling results
that you get at an airport with a ground level of 200 - 300 ft MSL and 95
deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a ground elevation of
6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT).
An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg. F. per thousand ft.
so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and 95 deg would be the
same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F.
I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in a linier manner as
you climb in altitude (I don't think it does, hopefully others on the
list can provide an answer), my experience seems to imply that it does
not.
Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes will be even worse in
the exact same weight / climb angle off attack situation at a temp that
is adjusted for altitude.
I am only posting this to help builders to think of building their
airplanes for "every" situation that they may encounter, and to suggest
that until a particular airplane/cooler system has been fully tested to
more of an extreme condition... we really don't know what it will do.
________________________________________________________________________________
> >It would seem to me that the best location for the oil cooler would be
> >mounted low on the right side of the firewall and cooled with a big
> >hose run from the baffles. This would allow the waste heat to be
> >eliminated most easily and quickly. Mounting on the rear of the
> >baffle will result in blowing lots of heat right into an area I want
> >to keep as cool as possible for mags, fuel pump, gascolator. Any
> >thoughts/experiences?
> >
> >Brian Eckstein
> >6A Finishing
> >
> >----------
> First lesson in airplane building...What would "seem" to be the best
> answer to an airplane building question very often isn't.
>
> The amount of heat in the entire lower cowling as the result of air that
> has passed through the oil cooler is very small compared to the heat from
> the air that has passed through the cooling fins of the engine cylinders.
This is thought provoking. Has anyone tried adding a baffle on the rear of the
engine that guides the heat from the cylinders out through the waste heat vent?
Thereby separating the heat chambers, cylinder and accessories.
> Experience has shown that the most efficient location is on the rear
> baffle. Not every builder may need the most efficient oil cooler
> installation (because of there geographical location), but you never know
> when you might find yourself going through 10,000 ft climbing out of
> Gallupe New Mexico in the middle of July after being on the ground only
> 30 minutes for a fuel/potty stop (can you say heat soaked).
> In this type of situation you will wish you had the most efficient
> cooling system possible, regardless of where you live.
>
> Something I read recently that struck me as beings so very true.
>
> "One flight test is worth 100 expert opinions".
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> Former RV-6A owner
> North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
> This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
> necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
click on . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wd-643 position on F6108 |
"Medema, Douglas K." <DMedema@physio-control.com> asked:
>Could someone who has built the sliding canopy please email me with the
>position of the flange on Wd-643 relative to rib F-6108.
Yes the plans/manual are inconsistent here. What I ended up doing was
putting the weldment tab betweent the angle and the rib, with an .063 shim
between the rib and the angle, from the weldement to the firewall. It is
also acceptable and I think intended based on conversations with some of
Vans people, to not use a shim and just make sure the last rivet through the
angle is far enough forward that the weldment tab can still wedge in there.
>Please email me direct since I am no longer on the list.
I'm CCing to the list in case others want to know.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings, finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire Explaination |
Needed)
Sorry,
Left out the last slash which is important . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
as you go higher in altitude the temperature drops even though the air
is thinner i would suggest putting the oil cooler in the front l/h
inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in front of the
inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil cooler and
reducing your worry about oil temp at any altitude just a suggestion
from Glenn Williams building tail on rv8-a in FT. worth good luck
--- Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
>
> >Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that
> vibration is the
> >no. 1
> >cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted
> the oil cooler on
> >the
> >lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two
> 2" scat hoses to it,
> >one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect
> for me so far. I
> >have
> >the cooler mounted close enough to the lower
> cowling outlet that I
> >should
> > have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream
> air helping to
> >'pull'
> >air through the cooler.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
> >
> Von,
> You may very well be just fine with that
> installation, but I believe you
> have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level
> you have yet flight
> test with is just short of 80 deg F.
> The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be
> significant.
> Now add to that passenger and payload that will
> bring you up to gross
> weight.
> This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle
> of attack and
> possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now
> while flying solo
> (light).
>
> Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft
> MSL at the airport
> you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as
> I am sure everyone
> knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the
> oil cooling results
> that you get at an airport with a ground level of
> 200 - 300 ft MSL and 95
> deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a
> ground elevation of
> 6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT).
> An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg.
> F. per thousand ft.
> so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and
> 95 deg would be the
> same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F.
>
> I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in
> a linier manner as
> you climb in altitude (I don't think it does,
> hopefully others on the
> list can provide an answer), my experience seems to
> imply that it does
> not.
> Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes
> will be even worse in
> the exact same weight / climb angle off attack
> situation at a temp that
> is adjusted for altitude.
>
> I am only posting this to help builders to think of
> building their
> airplanes for "every" situation that they may
> encounter, and to suggest
> that until a particular airplane/cooler system has
> been fully tested to
> more of an extreme condition... we really don't know
> what it will do.
>
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List:
> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
> Archive Search Engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing:
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
as you go higher in altitude the temperature drops even though the air
is thinner i would suggest putting the oil cooler in the front l/h
inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in front of the
inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil cooler and
reducing your worry about oil temp at any altitude just a suggestion
from Glenn Williams building tail on rv8-a in FT. worth good luck
--- Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
>
> >Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that
> vibration is the
> >no. 1
> >cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted
> the oil cooler on
> >the
> >lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two
> 2" scat hoses to it,
> >one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect
> for me so far. I
> >have
> >the cooler mounted close enough to the lower
> cowling outlet that I
> >should
> > have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream
> air helping to
> >'pull'
> >air through the cooler.
> >Von Alexander
> >N41VA(at)juno.com
> >
> Von,
> You may very well be just fine with that
> installation, but I believe you
> have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level
> you have yet flight
> test with is just short of 80 deg F.
> The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be
> significant.
> Now add to that passenger and payload that will
> bring you up to gross
> weight.
> This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle
> of attack and
> possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now
> while flying solo
> (light).
>
> Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft
> MSL at the airport
> you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as
> I am sure everyone
> knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the
> oil cooling results
> that you get at an airport with a ground level of
> 200 - 300 ft MSL and 95
> deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a
> ground elevation of
> 6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT).
> An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg.
> F. per thousand ft.
> so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and
> 95 deg would be the
> same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F.
>
> I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in
> a linier manner as
> you climb in altitude (I don't think it does,
> hopefully others on the
> list can provide an answer), my experience seems to
> imply that it does
> not.
> Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes
> will be even worse in
> the exact same weight / climb angle off attack
> situation at a temp that
> is adjusted for altitude.
>
> I am only posting this to help builders to think of
> building their
> airplanes for "every" situation that they may
> encounter, and to suggest
> that until a particular airplane/cooler system has
> been fully tested to
> more of an extreme condition... we really don't know
> what it will do.
>
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List:
> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
> Archive Search Engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing:
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob,
>So what about the capacitor. Will it help reduce any noise in the
>intercom, radio, etc, system if we install one. A friend of mine
>recommended that I install a capacitor in the system along with the
>shielded wire from the alternator.
A builder called me about ten years ago and spent several
minutes outlining all the shielding, filtering, prepositioning
of harware in the airplane all in the name of eliminating
electrical noise. All in all, several dozens of hours, pounds
of hardwrae and no small sum of cash.
I was a bit astonished and asked what kind of noise proplem
he was having. "Oh," sez he, "I don't have a noise problem,
the airplane is not yet ready to fly." My advice is generally
this: Put shielded wire on magneto p-leads, spark plug wires
-and- on any appliances where the manufacturer recommneds it
and describes how it is to be hooked up.
Then, if a noise problem presents itself, you need to identify
the source, propogation mode and victim and plan the best way
to handle that particular problem by filtering at source,
breaking the propogation mode or filtering at the victim.
Given that there are dozens of possible combinations, you can
easily spend the time and dollars represented by our hero's
precautions and still not assure yourself of a noise free
airplane.
Begin with good basic installation practice and whip each
problem as it presents itself . . . it's generally not
hard to do . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
I think that URL should be:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire
James
RV6AQB ... empenage fiberglass and sliding canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 12:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
>
>I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
>shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
>in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
>click on . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurasic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank baffle and rib dimpling?? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Speaking of the #3 rivets, I goofed and drilled these same holes with
>a
>#30 drill bit. Anybody see a problem with using the #4 426 rivets
>here?
>Or even just using the blind rivets used on the inner ribs?
>
>The left tank is just cleco'd together for now, waiting until the
>right
>wing catches up.
>
>I know the plans are clear on the rivet callouts here, and the
>construction notes I got off the internet also mention this, but I
>managed to keep drilling without thinking, so...
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>Chris Hand
>RV6A, working on wings
>Monterey, CA area
>
>
Rather than try and dimple for the AN426-4 rivets just use AN470's.
The flush 3/32 rivets are only called out because that is all that is
supplied in the kit for 3/32 rivets.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Thanks, Bob) |
It's the efforts of all these people putting their skills together here that
really make this list wonderful! Thanks for your efforts, Bob!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Messing with Shielded Wire!
-----Original Message-----
From: James E. Clark <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 4:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
>
>I think that URL should be:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire
>
>James
>RV6AQB ... empenage fiberglass and sliding canopy
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>To: Stephen J. Soule
>Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 12:03 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
>
>
>
>>
>>I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
>>shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
>>in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
>>click on . . .
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>> ////
>> (o o)
>> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
>> < Independence Kansas: the >
>> < Jurasic Park of aviation. >
>> < Your source for brand new >
>> < 40 year old airplanes. >
>> ================================
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Zinkham <reagle(at)nauticom.net> |
Does anyone have an explanation for my getting a continuity reading
between the center pin and the outer shell of the connector on the
vor/gs
cat wisker Comant antenna ?
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott; If I set up my oil cooler for the 'extreme' conditions you
describe, won't I then be running waaay to cool during the normal flights
in normal temps? Isn't this bad for the engine? As I recall Lycoming
recommends an ideal oil temp of 180 degrees, with 245 degrees as
redline.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>>Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that vibration is the
>>no. 1
>>cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted the oil cooler on
>
>>the
>>lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two 2" scat hoses to
>it,
>>one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect for me so far. I
>>have
>>the cooler mounted close enough to the lower cowling outlet that I
>>should
>> have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream air helping to
>>'pull'
>>air through the cooler.
>>Von Alexander
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>
>Von,
>You may very well be just fine with that installation, but I believe
>you
>have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level you have yet
>flight
>test with is just short of 80 deg F.
>The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be significant.
>Now add to that passenger and payload that will bring you up to gross
>weight.
>This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle of attack and
>possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now while flying solo
>(light).
>
>Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft MSL at the airport
>you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as I am sure everyone
>knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the oil cooling results
>that you get at an airport with a ground level of 200 - 300 ft MSL and
>95
>deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a ground elevation
>of
>6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT).
>An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg. F. per thousand
>ft.
>so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and 95 deg would be the
>same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F.
>
>I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in a linier manner
>as
>you climb in altitude (I don't think it does, hopefully others on the
>list can provide an answer), my experience seems to imply that it does
>not.
>Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes will be even worse
>in
>the exact same weight / climb angle off attack situation at a temp
>that
>is adjusted for altitude.
>
>I am only posting this to help builders to think of building their
>airplanes for "every" situation that they may encounter, and to
>suggest
>that until a particular airplane/cooler system has been fully tested
>to
>more of an extreme condition... we really don't know what it will do.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
Ralph Zinkham wrote:
> Does anyone have an explanation for my getting a continuity reading
> between the center pin and the outer shell of the connector on the
> vor/gs cat wisker Comant antenna ?
>
It's a balanced antenna, and may have a harness that matches the antenna
to the unbalanced coaxial feedline. These can show a short circuit when
checked with an ohm meter, but will work fine at RF. On the other
hand......
Tom Glover
RV-6A Surrey BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | anodize panel instead of paint? |
I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred
to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument
panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I
planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks
better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have never
heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the archives
about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that there
may be some drawbacks to it.
I spoke with a local anodizing shop. They say 2024 takes a
somewhat darker shade than the 6000 alloys and that it's better not to try
to get a real hard anodize on it. Just as well since I might want to drill
an extra hole or two some where down the road. The panel can be engraved
after anodizing.
Putting a satin finish on the aluminum before anodizing produces a
really attractive look, though I'm not sure of the best way to do it. The
shop recommended against shot peening and glass beading. They say it tends
to leave too much micro texture and the surface picks up smudges and dirt.
Some finer prep method is desirable.
If anyone has any experience with this or any arguments pro or con,
I'd appreciate hearing about it.
Thanks,
April 24, 1999 - April 29, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gu