RV-Archive.digest.vol-gv
April 29, 1999 - May 06, 1999
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern
on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for
taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
Steven B. Janicki
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RE: Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
Gosh Bob, that photo tutorial is worth ten thousand words. Many thanks!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A, waiting on the finishing kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
[mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 1999 6:35 PM
To: Stephen J. Soule
Subject: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
click on . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RE: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire Explaination Needed) |
Yes, I noticed that too.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
[mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 1999 6:49 PM
To: Stephen J. Soule
Subject: Re: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire
Explaination Needed)
Sorry,
Left out the last slash which is important . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Folding bicycles |
If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two Dahon
folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a bit
goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are
available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
<< Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern
on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for
taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
>>
Well, the best way is to NOT paint 'em! Get the necessary pattern made up at
a local sign shop, take them your rudder, and have it put on at the shop!
It's not that hard to do it yourself (you built the entire ship anyway), but
it seems to draw the closest inspection.
A local shop has the pattern from my rudder, if you want a pattern like that.
I recall about $70 installed -- a large amount cheaper than painting!
Check six!
Mark Frederick
Team Rocket Inc
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
I have for sale a matched pair of Sekai folding bikes. These are like the
Dahons in size (16" wheels) except they are higher quality and ride
better. I have had the Dahons before. The Sekai is made in Japan and is a
3-spd. They fold at the middle of the frame, like the Dahon. I have these
in storage, they may have a flat tire or two, and probably need minor
tune-up and lubrication, but both are in like new condition. Will sell
both for $250 to someone who wants to pick them up here in Salem, Oregon.
Shipping would be much too expensive for something like this.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
You can always block off part of the cooler to get higher temperatures but
to lower temperatures when they are too high is more difficult. (Spelled
expensive)
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360
>
>Scott; If I set up my oil cooler for the 'extreme' conditions you
>describe, won't I then be running waaay to cool during the normal flights
>in normal temps? Isn't this bad for the engine? As I recall Lycoming
>recommends an ideal oil temp of 180 degrees, with 245 degrees as
>redline.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>writes:
>>
>>
>>>Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that vibration is the
>>>no. 1
>>>cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted the oil cooler on
>>
>>>the
>>>lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two 2" scat hoses to
>>it,
>>>one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect for me so far. I
>>>have
>>>the cooler mounted close enough to the lower cowling outlet that I
>>>should
>>> have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream air helping to
>>>'pull'
>>>air through the cooler.
>>>Von Alexander
>>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>>
>>Von,
>>You may very well be just fine with that installation, but I believe
>>you
>>have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level you have yet
>>flight
>>test with is just short of 80 deg F.
>>The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be significant.
>>Now add to that passenger and payload that will bring you up to gross
>>weight.
>>This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle of attack and
>>possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now while flying solo
>>(light).
>>
>>Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft MSL at the airport
>>you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as I am sure everyone
>>knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the oil cooling results
>>that you get at an airport with a ground level of 200 - 300 ft MSL and
>>95
>>deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a ground elevation
>>of
>>6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT).
>>An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg. F. per thousand
>>ft.
>>so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and 95 deg would be the
>>same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F.
>>
>>I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in a linier manner
>>as
>>you climb in altitude (I don't think it does, hopefully others on the
>>list can provide an answer), my experience seems to imply that it does
>>not.
>>Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes will be even worse
>>in
>>the exact same weight / climb angle off attack situation at a temp
>>that
>>is adjusted for altitude.
>>
>>I am only posting this to help builders to think of building their
>>airplanes for "every" situation that they may encounter, and to
>>suggest
>>that until a particular airplane/cooler system has been fully tested
>>to
>>more of an extreme condition... we really don't know what it will do.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
Get some checker board paint????
Seriously, it is quicker to go the a vinyl sign maker and get the desired
pattern as an overlay and stick in on the background color of your choice.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
>
>Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern
>on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for
>taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
>
>Steven B. Janicki
>RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
You can drill hardened anodizing. It tends to crack easier. If you scratch
the color layter you can't touch it up very well.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: anodize panel instead of paint?
>
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred
>to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument
>panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I
>planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks
>better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have never
>heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the archives
>about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that there
>may be some drawbacks to it.
>
> I spoke with a local anodizing shop. They say 2024 takes a
>somewhat darker shade than the 6000 alloys and that it's better not to try
>to get a real hard anodize on it. Just as well since I might want to drill
>an extra hole or two some where down the road. The panel can be engraved
>after anodizing.
>
> Putting a satin finish on the aluminum before anodizing produces a
>really attractive look, though I'm not sure of the best way to do it. The
>shop recommended against shot peening and glass beading. They say it tends
>to leave too much micro texture and the surface picks up smudges and dirt.
>Some finer prep method is desirable.
>
> If anyone has any experience with this or any arguments pro or con,
>I'd appreciate hearing about it.
>Thanks,
>
>---
>Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | removal from list |
You will need to follow the directions at the bottom of the page to be
removed.
Cecil
>
>pls remove me from the list thank you
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe(unsubscribe)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
Tom, I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Please let me know how it
turns out.
Sylvain Duford
RV-8 #47, N130RV reserved
Bellevue, WA
>
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It
occurred
> to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument
> panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I
> planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks
> better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have never
> heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the archives
> about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that there
> may be some drawbacks to it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I took the sheet metal program for two days before building an RV-8, but
learned more after practicing on the kit. There isn't much individual
instruction and I'm not sure the instructors are that interested. You will
learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing. I don't think it was
worth the money or the time.
Irv 80110
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dr. Vlasblom" <vlasblom(at)recorder.ca> |
Please, unsubscribe me from your mailing list.
Impossible to read it all.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
I highly recommend Henry's workshop in Oregon. There are only four students
in the class and you get to make lots of mistakes on the practice kits that
Henry Gorgas provides. We did drilling, bending, filing, dimpling, removed
rivets, measuring & countersinking, pro-sealing and much more over three
days. Not to mention the tips that only having an instructor peering over
your shoulder can provide.
Phil Smith
RV8 80691, left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Craig asked...
> Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
Here is an answer from one who has never had a parachute on! Since no one else
answers - doesn't anyone wear a parachute when doing akro?? What I found out
after several queries and chatting up riggers and users is that the back pack is
right for RV flyers.
My *OPINION* from some research:
An old military chute for $100 is better than a Mary Poppins unbrella which is
better than flapping your arms. But upgrading an old one can get spendy.
Many of the akro stars use National products. One that pop open quickly and is
light weight seems a good idea.
Sport (non-emergency) parachutes should be avoided as emergency chutes.
A second seat belt is (sometimes - often - rarely) used in case the main one
comes loose while inverted but flying inverted is not fun some say.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things...
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>as you go higher in altitude the temperature drops even though the air
>is thinner i would suggest putting the oil cooler in the front l/h
>inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in front of the
>inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil cooler and
>reducing your worry about oil temp at any altitude just a suggestion
>from Glenn Williams building tail on rv8-a in FT. worth good luck
This is precisely how my oil cooler is mounted on my RV-4. The highest my
oil temp has gotten is about 195F on a long climb on a very hot day (OAT
115F at the surface with a long taxi and hold at the runway). CHTs are
much more of a concern for me but in the above situation the CHT on #3 only
got to 450F. Once I leveled out the CHT came back to 380F and the oil-T
came back to 175F.
At the other end of the spectrum, my oil temp runs about 160F when OAT is
below freezing. I haven't found a need to make any changes between winter
and summer.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
I originally purchased the back-pack type 'chute but it pushed me too close
to the panel for comfort so I swapped for a seat type. That worked fine
for me.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Folding bicycles |
>
>If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two Dahon
>folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a bit
>goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are
>available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220.
I purchased two of the Dahon folding bikes with the 20" wheels at OSH last
year. They work really well and you can get them into any reasonably sized
baggage compartment. Unfortunately this excludes the RV-4 but they fit
just fine in my other aircraft.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>Ralph Zinkham wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have an explanation for my getting a continuity reading
>> between the center pin and the outer shell of the connector on the
>> vor/gs cat wisker Comant antenna ?
>>
>It's a balanced antenna, and may have a harness that matches the antenna
>to the unbalanced coaxial feedline. These can show a short circuit when
>checked with an ohm meter, but will work fine at RF. On the other
>hand......
This is absolutely correct. Coaxial baluns usually present a short circuit
at DC but do the right thing at the appropriate RF.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
I forgot to add, the seat pack type of chute is more uncomfortable to sit
on for long periods of time but my National does have about 1" of
temperfoam between me and the chute which may be increased. I plan to do
this but haven't gotten around to it.
The biggest problem is making a seat pan that is adapted to the seat pack
'chute so that it ends up at the proper height and angle. I have an Oregon
Aero seat in my RV-4 but it put me up too high with the 'chute on so I
fashioned a small plywood platform to replace the seat. The platform and
the 'chute place my butt at correct height. This works out just fine.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
Steven B. Janicki wrote:
Steven,
I saw that several people gave you advice to put vinyl checkers on your rudders.
This works well and is eaiser than painting, but nobody really answered you question
about how to paint checkers, along with ellipses and semi-cirlces. Let
me give it a try.
As far as checkers, there are two ways to do it. The first would be to paint the
entire rudder with the lighter color. Then you need to figure out the pattern
you want. I use a soft pencil (HB) to layout the pattern, try to use a very
light touch on the pencil, so it won't scratch the paint and it'll come off
with degreaser later.
Then run all the vertical lines with 1/4" wide 3M green striping tape, one piece
on each side of the line you want to paint. The 1/4" wide will allow you to
lay a straight line while still going around the corners well. Try to get the
pieces of tape as close together as possible without overlapping.
Then run all the horizontal lines in the same fashion. Now you got striping tape
all over the place. You then need to press the tape down in places where it
goes over another piece of tape, anywhere where paint can bleed underneath.
It's time to get out a new razor blade and remove all the tape where you want the
checkerboard (the darker color) to go. My favorite technique is to put the
edge of the razor blade over the tape where I want to cut it, apply light pressure,
then peel the tape up to cut the tape. If you use a good blade and do
it right, you can cut the tape without scoring the paint underneath.
Now you got a striping tape border everywhere where you want to the light checker
to be. Go ahead and use masking tape (I've said this before, use the good
3M 1" wide, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot) and a good masking paper (not
newspaper) to protect the light color. Now you should be ready to clean with
a good degreaser, like Ditzler DX-330, and prep for painting. Right before painting,
go back a press the tape down where it might bleed, using a sharpened
tongue depressor, or something like that.
After painting, peel up all the tape and see how it looks. If you get a little
bleed in some places, use a new and sharp xacto knife and a light touch to scrape
it off. If you do it well, you'll never see it.
The second way to do it would be to do the above steps for the 1st color and paint,
then mask off the color you just painted and then paint the second color.
It saves a little weight, but you have to be really careful to lay the tape
right on the previously masked line and not have an unpainted, or over painted
edge. I wouldn't recommend this for a rookie.
As far a painting swoopy curves, it just takes practice. You can layout the pattern
you want on a big piece of paper first, then transfer that to the airplane
using a pencil. Then it's just an art to get the curves right. For tight
curves, I like to use the 3M blue 1/8" wide striping tape. It can really provide
some nice curves for you. The normal procedure is lay the tape, see how
it looks, take it off and do it again, and again, and again, until you get something
you like.
Like I said, it can really be an art to do right (that's why professional get the
big bucks) but it can be really satisfying to stand back and say that "I did
that".
Best of luck, and let me know if you have any additional questions.
Laird RV-6 N515L Cowling
Socal, Whiteman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "toverton" <toverton(at)zapcom.net> |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
Tom
Generally you get a lot of GLARE off this type of surface (sun coming from
over your shoulder). I had this in a race car once and it looked great,
but ended up having to paint over it. I would consider a very flat
color,(not shiny) or a wrinkle finish. IMHO
Tom Overton
Top Gun, Calif.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
> The power being proportional to the cube of the speed only applies to fixed
> pitch props.
And then only in the cruise configuration, I suspect. If RPMs are reduced by
10% in a fixed pitch aircraft in level flight and the aircraft is then put into
a climb that fully loads the engine then I would expect that power would be
reduced by ROUGHLY 10% also.
The formula for power (HP) is
HP = PLANk
where HP is horsepower and
P is BMEP (brake mean effective pressure) - the mean pressure inside the
cylinder during the cycle
L is the stroke
A is the area on top of all pistons
N is the RPMs the engine is turning
k is just a constant to adjust for measuring in feet or inches etc.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things...
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Just looking at this page:
http://www.nationalparachute.com/page2.html
shows three back pack chute models
#360 for pilots to 177 lbs back is 2" thick at top and 2.5" at bottom. $1145
#425 for pilots to 208 lbs back is 2" thick at top and 3.5" at bottom. $1195
#490 for pilots to 241 lbs back is 2.5" thick at top and 4" at bottom. $1318
they say the back pack gives the most comfort but they have all types.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
A photo or two of your installation would be helpful. Do you have a website
where you could post that sort of thing?
Steve Soule
-----Original Message----- I would suggest putting the oil
cooler in the front l/h
>inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in
front of the
>inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil
cooler
This is precisely how my oil cooler is mounted on my RV-4.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Balbierer <jbalbierer(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the
lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off
the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard
pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp)
Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color
and paint.
John Balbierer
RV-6, Syracuse, NY
--- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
>
>
> Can someone share with me the best way to paint a
> checkerboard pattern
> on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for
> suggestions for
> taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
>
> Steven B. Janicki
> RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | rv-8 bolt length |
Hi folks.
There are four bolts holding the main cabin bulkhead to the floor ribs.
Van's calls for #11 (1 3/8 inch long). This requires four washers each to
keep the nuts from running down onto the shank. Is this acceptable ? There
are no shorter, yet long enough, bolts to substitute. What say ye oh wise
ones?
Dennis Clay #80473
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
> Hey Dennis,
> I went through adding the spring around the exhaust pipe this
> winter. I'm
> here to tell you that it works. I made several flights on a 20 F day,
> with
> and without the spring, and it made a dramatic difference in the
> amount of
> heat I was able to extract from the exhaust. I can't tell you why it
> works,
> but it does! Check the archives.
I think this would be "surface area"
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
==
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> A second seat belt is (sometimes - often - rarely) used in case the main one
> comes loose while inverted but flying inverted is not fun some say.
>
Pulling (or would that be pushing?) G's while inverted I don't know
about, but just flying inverted is great. Watching the ground slid past
thru the pig canopy was so great on a sample pitts flight, that's what
convinced me to build instead of getting an old 172 or something. Haven't
yet tried it in the Starduster (still trying to figure out how to land
taildragger). Going to be two belts and inverted fuel/oil in my RV.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd wing L.E.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
John Balbierer wrote:
>
>
> I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the
> lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off
> the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard
> pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp)
> Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color
> and paint.
>
> John Balbierer
> RV-6, Syracuse, NY
>
> --- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Can someone share with me the best way to paint a
> > checkerboard pattern
> > on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for
> > suggestions for
> > taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
> >
> > Steven B. Janicki
> > RV-4
> >
A lot of good suggestions, here is another one and that is the
same places that do vinyl lettering can usually do self sticking
stencils that can be cut to the design you want and placed on
the surface you want to paint then removed after painting. They
can either be done as a mask for the part you don't want to paint
or as a mask for the surrounding area leaving open the part you do
want to paint. I helped a friend do this on his Lancair and it worked
great.
Jerry Springer
RV-6 First flight 7/14/89|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment |
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The only rudder pedal tube failures I have heard of here at LVK are on
> >
> >taildraggers. I think that there is more force put on the taildragger
> >pedals
> >than on the trigears. Another theory is that pilots were pushing on
> >the
> >pedals to help them get up out of the seat.
> >
> >-GV
> >
> -
> >From what I have seen this is as likely (and maybe more so) to be a
> problem with RV-6A's as it is with 6's.
> Many pilots new to an RV-6A are not accustomed to flying an airplane that
> has a free castoring nose wheel. They sometimes get in the habit of
> using the brakes to steer a lot more than necessary.
> What ends up happening is the pilot is pushing hard on both peddles
> putting a lot of load on both.
To add a little to what Gary and Scott are saying, I have the old style
floor mount pedals in my RV-6 and several years ago there was a mod for
them because people had broke them. I still have not updated mine and
have not had problems in ten years of flying, but I am very aware of how
hard I push on the pedals. The most damage can be done trying to hold
brakes while doing run ups IMO.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns |
You can also get vinyl paint masks laid out by a sign maker. Lay it on,
press down the edges, paint and remove.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Balbierer <jbalbierer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
>
>I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the
>lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off
>the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard
>pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp)
>Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color
>and paint.
>
>John Balbierer
>RV-6, Syracuse, NY
>
>--- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Can someone share with me the best way to paint a
>> checkerboard pattern
>> on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for
>> suggestions for
>> taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns.
>>
>> Steven B. Janicki
>> RV-4
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
>> fine Aircraft
>> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
>> List members.
>>
>>
>> Matronics:
>> http://www.matronics.com
>> RV-List:
>> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
>> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>> Archive Search Engine:
>> http://www.matronics.com/search
>> Archive Browsing:
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>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> Other Email Lists:
>> http://www.matronics.com/other
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs
with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge.
Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I
belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of
volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then
by all means join just to meet people with like interests.
Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit
-----Original Message-----
From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
. You will
>learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing>
>Irv 80110
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 30 Apr 1999 22":04:01.-0000(at)matronics.com
Subject: | RV-8 Bolt lengths |
I accidently deleted the queston about a -11 bolt
being to long for an application, but I want to
answer it anyway.
A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches, not 1 and 3/8
inches long. The first digit is inches, the second
digit is eighths. If yu don't have a AN Hardware
reference handy, check EAA hapter 1000's web
page
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/refernce/
an3_18a.htm to see why there is no such thing as
a -18 bolt.
Hope this helps
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 vertical fin offset |
Fellow Listers:
I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S
prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical
fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have
heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven
visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any
consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect).
Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim
using the landing gear fairings. What say you?
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gott(at)noao.edu (Shelby Gott) |
Ted;
You need AN-800-2 "union cones", also available from ACS.
They are to be soldered to the 1/8" tubes.
Don't use compression ferrules, they'll cause the tube to break
due to vibration at the point where the the tube is compressed.
Shelby Gott
Tucson, AZ
RV8 wings
>From: "The French's" <french@mag-net.com>
>I am about to install my primer fittings and associated hardware. Upon
>looking closely at my fittings, which I bought from ACS, I am puzzled about
>the connection to the fitting. The fitting itself is slightly concave where
>the 1/8" tube fits, and the tube slides into the fitting about 3/8 to 1/2
>in. I have compression ferrules which would appear to fit to the fitting,
>but the nut which holds all this together has a square shoulder which bears
>down on the ferrule. This shoulder has a fairly sharp edge. Is this the way
>this assy is designed or should the nut have a tapered shoulder to help
>compress the ferrule. My feeling is that it should be tapered so the ferrule
>will compress onto the tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I'm not so sure about the "most" part. In our Chap 790 (northwestern
suburbs of Chicago) we have about 8 RVs being built or flying and several
dozen projects of all types. We have very knowledgeable flight advisors,
technical advisors and all sorts of experts on everything that flys! do not
archive
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
>Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs
>with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain
knowledge.
>Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I
>belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short
of
>volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing
then
>by all means join just to meet people with like interests.
>
>Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
>
>>
>. You will
>>learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing>
>>Irv 80110
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Sorry to hear that. But you can change the process by getting involved. Try
having a project review. Get other's that have a project one the back
burner to show everyone what it is all about. Might the builder
re-inspired. Invite members for a ride in your home built. Have your chapter
start a "tool library" We have over 200 different tools, for loan as well as
electronic scales for W&B. Our Chapter 75 is only about 90 local members
while the area around us has about 500 people that belong to the national
EAA. We sent our Flight Advisor to Oshkosh for a workshop. Paid his way.
Since you are a builder, volunteer to be a Tech Counselor.
In a way your are right, but the questions I would ask are... Does your
Chapter have a Tech Counselor? Does it have a Flight Advisor? Is there a
Chapter tool library?
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
>Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs
>with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain
knowledge.
>Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I
>belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short
of
>volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing
then
>by all means join just to meet people with like interests.
>
>Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
>
>>
>. You will
>>learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing>
>>Irv 80110
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Fuel pump fittings source, etc. |
Listers,
I thought I would replace the rather tired looking flare fittings on the
fuel pump today whilst working away on various engine stuff. I took a short
trip down to the Parker Fitting store, and, lo and behold, they have EXACTLY
the fittings needed. These are the captive O-ring/washer/non-pipethread type
fittings that the AN fuel pump requires. They are steel, and have 37 degree
flare on the other end. They are available in 90 and 45 degree elbow
configuration but I don't recall seeing any straight ones. Oh well, I was in
a hurry...they probably exist. So, if you need some of these, check out
Parker first, to save yourself some UPS time and shipping costs. They were
about $4 each.
Now, some questions:
For all fuel primer, fuel pressure and manifold pressure lines, I plan to
use 1/8" copper tubing. Now, should those tiny-orifice special primer
fittings be used on BOTH ends of EVERY tube? I have a wet-type fuel
pressure/manifold pressure gauge. (Yeah, I know....YIKES! fuel in the
cockpit. Hey, it's been done since the golden ages).
The Parker store has 1/8" brass compression fittings that seem like they
would work, after maybe filling them with solder, then drilling a tiny hole.
Will this work? Or, is it asking for trouble?
Thanks folks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
engine systems, exhaust, etc, etc.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Subject: | Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patte |
Hi All:
One last point on masking/painting checkers or whatever. A slick way to
eliminate bleed-through under your green 3M masking tape is to hit the area
you are painting with a LIGHT coat of clear prior to applying the color
coat. This will effectively seal the edge of the masking tape and leave you
with a perfect sharp color edge. I must emphasize a light coat of clear
here so as to not leave a pronounced ridge at the color line. An Old trick
from my RC modeling days and works like a charm.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
left wing tank
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
> While this is a free country and all are entitled to their own opinions,
the
> opinions might fly in the face of fact. Engineers who know
thermodynamics know
> the facts regarding the movement of heat in such situations like oil
coolers and
> heat muffs etc. Thermodynamics is a very complex field and it gave me
bad
> headaches in college so I don't feel qualified to offer anything, but
maybe
> someone will step forward and help us with some of these common
questions. Or,
> if you know someone who could help - maybe not even a builder - get
him/her
> involved.
>
> > A lot of folks believe that in order to get more heated air thru a heat
muff,
> IMO to get more usable heated air, you must slow the air down
The goal of the heater is not to maximize heat input into the cabin, but
rather to bring the cabin temperature to some comfortable level - these are
not the same thing. To understand this, consider two extremes. Imagine
first a greatly exaggerated air flow through the exchanger and into the
cabin. This would be the maximum heat input into the cabin (most heat
removed from the exhaust); unfortunately the heated air temperature would
be too low to be comfortable. On the other extreme, a very small air flow
would result in one's feet being extremely hot, while the aft cabin would
be cold. Clearly, something in the middle is optimum - trial and error is
in order.
The coiled spring's function in this case is to cause turbulent flow
throught the exchanger, effectively bringing more "cool" air molecules
closer to the hot pipe.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths |
> A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches,
Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is 0.964
inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long.
It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things...
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 Oil Cooling |
Hi gang,
My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has been pegged all winter
and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and early spring. The cooler
is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch clearance between the
cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is only a 2' dia. scat
tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy. Its fine. OK, OK...so I
blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of aluminum just to see
the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50 degree OAT), the Oil
Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past weekend with the OAT at
70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!!
I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there is so little room for
error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a controllable door to the
scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read failsafe) design. Any
good, proven ideas out there?
Thanks in advance.
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
Subject: | Re: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 12:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad?
>
>Anyone out there using the BC103-1 (12AH) or BC 14-1 (17 AH). I've heard
>from a Lancair 4 builder that they did not get very good life mounted on
the
>engine side of the firewall. One RV6 builder raves about the 12AH one
>cranking his O-360 VFR machine. Does anyone know why the 12 AH costs $120
and
>the 17 AH costs $84?
>
>Anyone have a neat installation of their fuseholder where it is easy to get
>to and change fuses or trouble shoot?
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV6A engine and panel, S E FLA
>
Bernie: I have been using a 17AH B &C battery on my RV-4 with a 160HP 9:1
cr engine. The battery is located in the standard -4 location, that is,
between the pilots feet in a tray on the forward floor. It is now more than
5 years old with approx 400 hours and I don't know how many starts and
recently, after sitting idle for several weeks, it started the engine even
though it took extra effort. That was because I primed the engine
incorrectly. The starter is a B &C also and the cables are #2 size with the
ground connecting the engine case to the firewall with a 3/8" brass bolt and
thence to the battery. It has never failed a start.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
Several follow ups on this topic contain good information from skilled experimenters
and reasoning engineers.
Cool!
My old Debonair has in its heat muff a number of outrageously expensive screws.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
I advised Van's about the higher new gear leg, and they responded that if
possible they would put something in the next RVAtor regarding the thinking
behind the new design.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
Louis,
Van's plans which are supplied with the firewall mounted oil cooler kit
show a trap door type flap on the bottom (outflow) side of the oil cooler.
I'm not sure what system on any aircraft is really "fail-safe"
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved) Youngstown, OH
"The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Hi gang,
>
>
>My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has been pegged all winter
>and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and early spring. The cooler
>is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch clearance between the
>cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is only a 2' dia. scat
>tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy. Its fine. OK, OK...so I
>blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of aluminum just to see
>the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50 degree OAT), the Oil
>Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past weekend with the OAT at
>70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!!
>
>I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there is so little room for
>error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a controllable door to the
>scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read failsafe) design. Any
>good, proven ideas out there?
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Louis
>
>
>
>Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
>larywil(at)home.com
>(610) 668-4964
>Philadelphia, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
louis: this is a suggestion that may work for you as I have seen this
work for an rv-6 recently place the oil coller in front of #3 cylinder
right below the inlet from the cowl and make an air dam from .032
aluminum to capture ram air and force it through the coller and make
sure your oil pressure is not too high or the cooler will not cool the
oil because of too high of volume passing through to quick to cool the
oil. good luck from Glenn Williams building RV8A in ft worth TEXAS a&p
technician
--- Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has
> been pegged all winter
> and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and
> early spring. The cooler
> is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch
> clearance between the
> cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is
> only a 2' dia. scat
> tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy.
> Its fine. OK, OK...so I
> blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of
> aluminum just to see
> the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50
> degree OAT), the Oil
> Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past
> weekend with the OAT at
> 70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!!
>
> I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there
> is so little room for
> error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a
> controllable door to the
> scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read
> failsafe) design. Any
> good, proven ideas out there?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Louis
>
>
>
> Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
> larywil(at)home.com
> (610) 668-4964
> Philadelphia, PA
>
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List:
> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
> Archive Search Engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing:
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel? |
Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all.
Now, do I put them in series or in parallel?
I understand there is a valve in the fact pumps, but I understood from
Tracy Crook's experience that you can't count on that valve closing
completely (allows some reverse flow). That's a strike against parallel
configuration..
What is the failure mode of the facet pumps? Do (or can) they block the
flow when they fail? If so, that would be a strike against series
configuration..
Finn
(RV-3 - waiting for prop, mounting wing tips)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
Today I purchased a Softy Backpack style chute with a 26' canopy. I'm a
short guy 5'6" and the pack's size and position were expectable I'm perhaps
1/2" too close to the panel, but I can deal. Mostly what I didn't expect
was the awkward hunched over feeling I got. On the one hour trip home my
back ached from the awkward position my spine was forced into from the lack
of contours on the pack. I believe 1/2" of comfort foam in the lower back
will solve this problem.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: parachutes
>
> >Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
>
> I forgot to add, the seat pack type of chute is more uncomfortable to sit
> on for long periods of time but my National does have about 1" of
> temperfoam between me and the chute which may be increased. I plan to do
> this but haven't gotten around to it.
>
> The biggest problem is making a seat pan that is adapted to the seat pack
> 'chute so that it ends up at the proper height and angle. I have an
Oregon
> Aero seat in my RV-4 but it put me up too high with the 'chute on so I
> fashioned a small plywood platform to replace the seat. The platform and
> the 'chute place my butt at correct height. This works out just fine.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
The French's wrote:
>
>
> Check out http://hamgate2.netbistro.com/~french/
>
> I have a system I have built for my 6A. which use 2 relays for flap
> positioning, and 2 more for trim adjustment.
> Ted
> Prince George BC
>
>
When I try to view the drawing for this system, I get the web source
code and no drawing. Anyone else having that problem??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
Louis,
I'm using Van's mounting kit on the firewall. I put a cable-operated trap
door on the bottom that covers the entire outlet of the cooler. The
failure mode (I hope) is that if the cable breaks, the door falls fully
open.
Since I've been flying only since last November my experience has been
solely with winter/spring temperatures. With the door fully closed, my
oil temps will stay above 180F/82C down to an OAT of -5C.
Bob Hall, RV-6
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel? |
From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
>
>Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all.
>
>Now, do I put them in series or in parallel?
My hangar mate is using two facet pumps on his RV-4 with an O320H2AD.
Initially he set them up in series. During his testing he found that the
output pressure to the carb with both pumps running was over 10psi which
was in excess of the max pressure spec for his carb( 8psi as I recall).
So, he put them in parallel.
Bob Hall, RV6 N976RH
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: O-360 / Oil temp problems |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>
>Scott; If I set up my oil cooler for the 'extreme' conditions you
>describe, won't I then be running waaay to cool during the normal
>flights
>in normal temps? Isn't this bad for the engine? As I recall Lycoming
>recommends an ideal oil temp of 180 degrees, with 245 degrees as
>redline.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
It is possible that you would but not necessarily.
That is partially what the vernatherm valve is for, but it can only
regulate a much narrower range than the extremes.
My personal choice would be to have a system that would keep the oil temp
at about 230 or so in a more extreme condition as I described in my other
post. This would be considered normal in extreme conditions.
And as long as it is manageable and not out of control an airplane that
operates this way should probably be left alone.
Now if you push to 230 after doing 3 T&Go's in 85 deg temp at a 2500 ft
elevation airport... then you probably should consider making some
changes to your oil cooling system.
The main thrust of my orig. post was that having oil temps that stay
right on 180 while doing low powered touch and goes at 80 degrees
doesn't say anything about what the temps may be at 95 deg and 7500 feet
clawing your way out of the canyon at Greely (spell?) Colorado on your
way to OSH in July.
It is also of no use to suggest an oil cooler installation that works
well on an RV-4 will also work great on an RV-6, or 6A, or etc.
As I have mentioned before...Each model is different.
RV-4's have always had a history of cooling very well. Too well in some
airplanes. So what works well in an RV-4 can't be assumed will work well
in something else. It might, but it might not.
If you want the most efficient oil cooling (from my experiences, maybe
not others) is to mount a cooler on the aft baffle directly behind the #
4 cyl.
Second best seems to be on the left baffle inlet ramp in front of the # 2
cyl. It requires longer oil lines which are routed below the #2 and #4
cyl which means they have heated air blowing on them all the time. For
this reason the must have fire sleaving installed on them (for safety
they should have it anyway).
Least effective has always seemed to be remote mounted with a hose
providing the air source.
Bottom line is that what ever you do, the first time you raise an
eyebrow at the oil temp gage should not be some where a long ways from
home. It should be discovered and dealt with during flight testing.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>I advised Van's about the higher new gear leg, and they responded that
>if
>possible they would put something in the next RVAtor regarding the
>thinking
>behind the new design.
>
>
I don't know who you spoke with, but there is nothing else to tell about
the new nose gear leg.
I spoke with my co-worker Ken Krueger (guy who designed the new gear leg)
this morning. Dimensionally the new gear leg is exactly the same as the
old one.
We could think of 3 variables that could make the airplane sit at a
slightly different angle. The first 2 are quite possible (though we
doubt that even together they could account for a hight change of 4 - 5
inches at the horiz. stab as someone mentioned) the third we don't think
is very likely but since we haven't done any measuring of our own it is
possible.
# 1 - It is possible the new leg is replacing one that was slightly
bent. A number of them have been found to be bent slightly when the old
one has been received to use as a guide for match drilling.
# 2 - Their is a +/- mfr tolerance on the bend at the fwd bottom of the
gear leg of .5 Deg. This can cause a slight variation in the castor
angle of the nose wheel fork which could raise (or lower) the nose very
slightly.
# 3 - (This is thought to be highly unlikely but possible) The new gear
leg has a different diameter profile (it is larger in diam at each end
than in the middle, the orig leg was constant diam.) than the old leg.
It is possible that at rest (static) it doesn't deflect as much as the
old leg did.
To clear up any concerns... There was no overall dimension change made to
the gear leg. When laid side by side with an old one the over all
dimensions should be nearly identical.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring
>around
>the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff".
-
Me also, but for a different reason.
I know of a # of instances in RV's were this was done, and over a period
of time with the spring vibrating slightly it caused thin slots to be
worn right through the exhaust pipe.
If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have an item
to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for
wear.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It
>occurred
>to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the
>instrument
>panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what
>I
>planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks
>better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have
>never
>heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the
>archives
>about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that
>there
>may be some drawbacks to it.
>
It hasn't ever been publicized much but the RV-8A prototype (58VA) has a
black anodized panel.
It was done while doing work for our wiring harness kit (anyone out there
install one of them yet, I would like to get some feed back?) and
planning for possibly offering complete panel / instrument / avionics
packages some day.
It was run through a fine grit "time saver" surfacing machine and then
black anodized. It has been holding up well so far.
One caution is that there are apparently many different quality levels of
anodizing and slight variations in the processes.
Some anodized aluminum parts I have seen have not held up well from
exposure to the sun (U.V. maybe?) the color begins to fade after a while,
and it doesn't do it evenly, so it begins to get blotchy.
So far the black RV-8A panel is holding up well (now one year old, with
about 300 hrs on it).
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Hunter" <ozzy(at)better.net.au> |
Subject: | Light Speed Ignition & lyc warranty |
Listeners,
A few weeks back a post cautioned us about Lyc standing by their warranty if
you fit the LSI system.As I am installing a new 320 from Vans & LSI I wrote
to Lyc with this concern. ( understand that here in AUS the home built
category requires a certified engine/ prop all to be maintained by a
Licensed engineer
plus an engineering approval to fit the LSI ). Lyc has just replied to the
effect that their warranty will stand providing your claim cannot be sheeted
home to any defect caused by the LSI system.Sounds to me like another lawyer
fest potential .
For your info'.
Brian-- RV-6 finishing kit & canopy fun.
Southport QLD Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins |
I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large
offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price of
$870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He is
hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I guess
he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later! :>)
AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a competive
item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and reduce
the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts.
Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | New LRI Quantity Buy Offer |
Gentlemen,
In light of the AOA quantity buy that was recently offered on "The List" I
have received several inquiries about the LRI (Lift Reserve Indicator)
OFF-List, and whether or not I could get the quantity buy offer that I had
previously done for RV builders. I have spoken to Bill Geipel (owner of
LRI) again and he has generously given me permission to make the offer to
RV builders once again. Below are the details.
Listers,
I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $20.00/unit. That
is a savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater
and $15.00 in shipping for a total possible savings of $123.00 or 14%. This
price would be cash or check. For Credit Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
more about the LRI go to:
http://www.lift reserve.com/
I will be handling the details of the shipment again so please contact me at:
prober(at)iwaynet.net or call me at (614) 890-6301 Eastern Std. Time
I will once again collect all the money and send Bill one check. If you
want references for this deal I can give you 9 other guys and myself who
participated in the last deal. You can contact me OFF-List about this and
PLEASE...... LET'S NOT START THE "WHICH INDICATOR IS BETTER" AND "WHETHER
OR NOT WE NEED ONE OF THESE"....... DEBATES AGAIN !
Thanks...AL ( I have no connection to the LRI company or Bill Geipel
other than this offer to RV builders.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: comparing hand held transcievers |
Lucky,
You may want to check out AVWEB.COM they had a review on Hand helds not to
long ago. I think it was under the avionics section.
Chuck Rowbotham
Rv-8A QB
Niantic, CT
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins |
Bernie,
Just rec'd our PSS Pro system. The workmanship is great. It was a strech but
I feel it's well worth the $$, from both a safety and quality point of view.
I evaluated the other systems and PSS's AOA was the hands down winner. The
difficult question was which of their systems to go with: Pro or Sport. We
chose the Pro based on expanded data points (32 vs 8) and the fact that it
had the donut in landing configuration.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A QB
Niantic, CT
***********************
>From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins
>Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 05:31:04 EDT
>
>
>I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large
>offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price
>of
>$870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He
>is
>hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I
>guess
>he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later!
>:>)
>
>AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a
>competive
>item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and
>reduce
>the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts.
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: New LRI Quantity Buy Offer |
Sorry, I messed up that URL. (Darn spell check!) AL
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>In light of the AOA quantity buy that was recently offered on "The List" I
>have received several inquiries about the LRI (Lift Reserve Indicator)
>OFF-List, and whether or not I could get the quantity buy offer that I had
>previously done for RV builders. I have spoken to Bill Geipel (owner of
>LRI) again and he has generously given me permission to make the offer to
>RV builders once again. Below are the details.
>
>Listers,
>I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
>what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
>together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
>$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
>said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
>(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $20.00/unit. That
>is a savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater
>and $15.00 in shipping for a total possible savings of $123.00 or 14%. This
>price would be cash or check. For Credit Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
>more about the LRI go to:
>
> http://www.liftreserve.com/
>
>I will be handling the details of the shipment again so please contact me at:
>
> prober(at)iwaynet.net or call me at (614) 890-6301 Eastern Std. Time
>
>I will once again collect all the money and send Bill one check. If you
>want references for this deal I can give you 9 other guys and myself who
>participated in the last deal. You can contact me OFF-List about this and
>PLEASE...... LET'S NOT START THE "WHICH INDICATOR IS BETTER" AND "WHETHER
>OR NOT WE NEED ONE OF THESE"....... DEBATES AGAIN !
>Thanks...AL ( I have no connection to the LRI company or Bill Geipel
>other than this offer to RV builders.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>1/2" too close to the panel, but I can deal. Mostly what I didn't expect
>was the awkward hunched over feeling I got. On the one hour trip home my
>back ached from the awkward position my spine was forced into from the lack
>of contours on the pack. I believe 1/2" of comfort foam in the lower back
>will solve this problem.
>
My Softie (from glider days) has foam between my back and the canopy. The
foam has a groove for the spine. At the time I bought this chute I believe
that was an option.
I always found this backpack chute to be very comfortable for cockpit times
up to 6 1/2 hours. I do think this would be very individual and also would
have a lot to do with how the seat is set up.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP
New FAA inspection date 5/14
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
Has anyone tried an oil thermostat on an RV? I have used these on race
cars. They consist of a lightweight aluminum diecasting with four AN
fittings that are spliced into the oil cooler lines. When cold, a bypass
path is open from one side to the other. The flow to the cooler is not
blocked, it's just that the majority of the oil takes the path of least
resistance and bypasses the cooler. The bypass begins closing at about
160F and is completely closed at 180F. I liked the fact that you can get
the oil temperature up very quickly and then if you have enough cooling
capacity, the temperature never varies by more than a few degrees. They use
a very dependable "waxstat" element. I never heard of one failing.
They are available with AN8, AN10, AN12 and AN16 fittings for $83 or $93
depending on size from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, 1-800-688-6946 or
http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ (a free catalog is available). Pegasus
also sells cheaper oil thermostats with hose nipples but I would not
recommend them because of smaller internal passages.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
Still trying to decide which RV to build
-----Original Message-----
>My -4 always runs too cold.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths |
----- Original Message -----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
>
> > A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches,
>
> Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is
0.964 inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long.
>
> It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure.
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things...
I couldn't find the bolts you found in the ACS catalog, but the point is
that a -11 is not 1&3/8, and a -20 is not 2&1/2. It's always a good idea to
look up or measure the grip length to be sure it fits your application.
Miles Bowen
Tehachapi, CA
Fitting counterbalance skin on right elevator.>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: comparing hand held transcievers |
Icom is the standard and is of highest quality. I think there was a write up
concerning the Yaesu vs. the Icom and the Icom had much better transmit
receive capability at distances beyond 10 miles. I have had an Icom for years
with no problems and use it in my Kitfox as my main radio and it works as
well as a King panel mount. What do you need VOR for?? Obsolete!! I never
have used that capability on my Icom and would not want it if I bought
another. Garmin 90 outperforms any VOR and while the Icom VOR does work why
would I want to use that? In my RV4 when it is finally done there will be a
panel mount radio and a handheld for back up and a Garmin ?? handheld GPS set
into a console or armrest such that it is easily removable for on ground
navigation--I get lost at Oshkosh. Love them handhelds. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | comparing hand held transcievers--more |
On my Icom there is a charging jack and an external power jack which can be
used for operation with or without the battery pack in place. Perhaps the
cheaper versions do not have this feature. Something to look into for sure.
Also there is an intercom made by Design Tech that is designed to operate
with the Icom handhelds and works great. For good performance in an aircraft
you need the intercom and an external antenna maybe with a splitter or a
patch cord or something like that if used as a backup to a panel radio. One
thing I have found lately is that my Icom has much better tx/rx with my new
Lightspeed headset than with the old junkie Softcoms.JR
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: comparing hand held transcievers |
In a message dated 5/1/99 8:50:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Anyone compared the new new yaesu, icom and sportys hand helds models
capable of vor/cdi to each other and have an opinion which is the best?
>>
You may want to find a copy of the January 1999 Aviation Consumer. They have
a comprative review on the Uaesu VXA-100, the Icom IC-A22, and Sporty's
JD-200. This publication is one of the few that provides a truely objective
review.
Rick McBride
Off to NJ tomorrow to inprocess Albanian refugees.
I'm so thrilled!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
>
>
>>I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring
>>around
>>the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff".
>Me also, but for a different reason.
>I know of a # of instances in RV's were this was done, and over a period
>of time with the spring vibrating slightly it caused thin slots to be
>worn right through the exhaust pipe.
>If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have an item
>to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for
>wear.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
Scott and RVers
I am 95% sure that the heat muff spring works because the airflow is slowed
down and has time to absorb heat energy before flowing into the cockpit.
200 cubic ft,/min at 80 deg is actually far less effective than 50 cubic
ft./min at 180 deg. A great solution to the spring problem is to replace it
with stainless steel sponges ( a very coarse form of steel wool used in
most restaurants and bakeries) It is cheap -$5 will be enough for two
aircraft- and will not destroy the exhaust pipe. You can use more or less
of it as you please to get the proper flow and heat absorption. Also,
unlike the spring, this stuff has a greater contact with the exhaust pipe
and works by both slowing down the air flow as well as by presenting more
hot surface area to the airflow.
Of course, now that spring/Summer is approaching, the cooling problem will
be revisited. I am still not sure of the safety of placing stick-on shades
inside of the RV-4 canopy. Will something melt?
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: comparing hand held transcievers |
my vote is for the icom handheld....portable ....inexpensive....no licence
fee...works excellent ....never used the vor either.too small to read
used mine for years to ferry a/c across the country , as a backup , as a
main radio
i had that icom a20 and a lowrance handheld gps .in my rocket...thats all i
needed....marty
-----Original Message-----
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com <JRWillJR(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, 01 May 1999 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: comparing hand held transcievers
>
>Icom is the standard and is of highest quality. I think there was a write
up
>concerning the Yaesu vs. the Icom and the Icom had much better transmit
>receive capability at distances beyond 10 miles. I have had an Icom for
years
>with no problems and use it in my Kitfox as my main radio and it works as
>well as a King panel mount. What do you need VOR for?? Obsolete!! I never
>have used that capability on my Icom and would not want it if I bought
>another. Garmin 90 outperforms any VOR and while the Icom VOR does work why
>would I want to use that? In my RV4 when it is finally done there will be a
>panel mount radio and a handheld for back up and a Garmin ?? handheld GPS
set
>into a console or armrest such that it is easily removable for on ground
>navigation--I get lost at Oshkosh. Love them handhelds. JR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
In a message dated 5/1/99 7:57:29, cjh(at)execpc.com writes:
Has anyone tried an oil thermostat on an RV? I have used these on race
cars. They consist of a lightweight aluminum diecasting with four AN
fittings that are spliced into the oil cooler lines. When cold, a bypass
path is open from one side to the other. The flow to the cooler is not
blocked, it's just that the majority of the oil takes the path of least
resistance and bypasses the cooler. The bypass begins closing at about
160F and is completely closed at 180F. I liked the fact that you can get
the oil temperature up very quickly and then if you have enough cooling
capacity, the temperature never varies by more than a few degrees. They use
a very dependable "waxstat" element. I never heard of one failing.
They are available with AN8, AN10, AN12 and AN16 fittings for $83 or $93
depending on size from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, 1-800-688-6946 or
http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ (a free catalog is available). Pegasus
also sells cheaper oil thermostats with hose nipples but I would not
recommend them because of smaller internal passages.>>
This sounds like an exact duplicate of the vernatherm in my Lycoming. It is
precisely the way I've been told that it works, and matches the way it looks
to be working to me.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net> |
Derek Reed wrote:
>
>
> Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs
> with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge.
> Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I
> belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of
> volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then
> by all means join just to meet people with like interests.
>
> Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit
>
Amen, Tallahassee's EAA Chapter is just that, a social club. Last year thier
annual fly-in had 8 planes show up.
I went to one meeting, told them I was building an RV and could use
all the help I could get, they stared at me like I was from another
plant. Not one member ever came by my hangar, even after the plane
was finished. In fact there are 4 builders in Tallahassee and not one
is a member.
However, I do know most EAA chapters are not like this.
Maybe one day I'll live in an aera with a strong Chapter.
Craig Hiers
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Canopy Latch Protection |
My RV-3 sports a beutifully clean one piece canopy and I wouldn't have it
any other way. But I'm scared to death that I'll accidentally nudge the
"per-plans" duel canopy latch machanism while folding charts. There's a
"taxi latch", but there's no way the peg will find that little whole without
my help. I have a friend who's father died from this very cause.
I'm looking for a clean and elligant solution. Either a backup latch or a
latch lock for the current design.
Bruce Meacham
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins |
I too am interested in the AOA gauge. It's not TSO'd and I looked up the
price of the parts, they're like pennies. It's just an IC with a sensor and
few light bulbs. Wow you can sure make a killing if you just out thunk
somone. I'm contemplating making my own. I took double-e for dummies in
college and I think I can get away with it. It would make a good experiment
anyway. If anyone else is intested in helping please e-mail me directly.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 2:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins
>
> I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large
> offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price
of
> $870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He
is
> hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I
guess
> he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later!
:>)
>
> AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a
competive
> item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and
reduce
> the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
Thanks for the info, Scott. BUT, there is something going on her that is
strange. I am going to ask RV-listers who have an RV-6A to measure the
height of the horizontal stabilizer above the floor, out at the tip where
the aluminum meets the fiberglass fairing, right at the leading edge.
Please, if you can, measure it and state if you have the "old" or the new,
stronger, nose gear leg.
I am going to assume that variations in fuel on board, tire inflation, and
other loading will produce some minor variations, but I am trying to account
for the major change when I installed the new gear leg.
I have a large photo above me of my RV-6A; the "N" number was attached using
a level to get it even with the ground in static position. That "N" number
now slants aft to forward very noticeably. I really do not think my old nose
gear was bent, but something is going on. From other responses I have noted
on the RV-list, I am not alone in this. Let's see if we can figure out what
is going on.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths |
There are two ways of measuring. Overall length and grip length. On your
example, I think you have an overall length from one place and a grip length
from the other. That is where you have to be careful as both are used.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: M. Bowen <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net>
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Bolt lengths
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
>>
>> > A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches,
>>
>> Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is
>0.964 inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long.
>>
>> It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure.
>>
>>
>> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things...
>
>
>I couldn't find the bolts you found in the ACS catalog, but the point is
>that a -11 is not 1&3/8, and a -20 is not 2&1/2. It's always a good idea
to
>look up or measure the grip length to be sure it fits your application.
>
>Miles Bowen
>Tehachapi, CA
>Fitting counterbalance skin on right elevator.>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal
stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor.
At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the fiberglass
fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16"
I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new RV-6A
nose gear leg equipped planes.
I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear.
Thank you if you can give me your measurements.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
>
stuff about springs on mufflers snipped>>>>
>
>Of course, now that spring/Summer is approaching, the cooling problem will
>be revisited. I am still not sure of the safety of placing stick-on shades
>inside of the RV-4 canopy. Will something melt?
>
>Louis
>
>
>
>
>
>Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
>larywil(at)home.com
>(610) 668-4964
>Philadelphia, PA
>
As for your question about stick-on shades melting something- - - - -
YES, it can. A friend of mine in Las Vegas purchased an RV-6 that had
that kind of shade on the top of his canopy. He left his RV parked in
the sun for a few hours and when he came back found that the top of
his canopy had 'sagged' about 1" in the area of the shade.
Granted, it was a very hot day as it often is in LV but it does show
that there is a downside to using those shades.
Possibly, even probably, if he had left his canopy open a few inches
it wouldn't have gotten that hot.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred
>to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument
>panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I
>planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks
Ouch! Having studied airplane instrument panels extensively, let me strongly
encourage you to color your panel something drab and unoffensive. The
instrument panel really has to be functional, and giving it bright colors is
the wrong thing to do.
Ed Wischmeyer
* Designed 60 instrument panels for customers of an instrument shop
* several hundred slides taken of homebuilt panels
* RV panel written up in October 83 (I think) Sport Aviation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
jerry calvert wrote:
> > I have a system I have built for my 6A. which use 2 relays for flap
> > positioning, and 2 more for trim adjustment.
> When I try to view the drawing for this system, I get the web source
> code and no drawing. Anyone else having that problem??
I saw the same thing... go to
<http://hamgate2.netbistro.com/~french/flaps.gif> to see the drawing.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: comparing hand held transcievers |
In a message dated 5/1/99 5:27:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< ha, great! I just started getting that magazine two months ago! Just my
luck.
Care to give us the reader's digest version of their conclusions?
>>
Okay, I'll just transcribe the Conclusion paragraphs:
"Both (Yaesu and Icom) of these products are outstanding, in our view.
Still, between the two, for general purpose on-the-ramp communication and
back-up comm for IFR, our choice is the Yaesu VXA-100. It has the best
combination of small size, good performance and neat features.
That said, we wouldn't recommend it for a permanent installation in a nordo
flivver such as a Cub or Champ, however. Because the Icom is easier to
mount, thanks to its conventional shape and is, in our view, more ruggedly
constructed, we think it's the better choice in that application. (Sporty's
sells a portable mounting bracket that will accept the Icom, plus Icom offers
its own version.)
Speaking of Sporty's, its JD-200 is the third man in this comparison. At
$375, it's a good performer and a good value, even if its featureset is a bit
less extensive than the Yaesu. (We last reviewed that unit in the February,
1996 Aviation Consumer.)
All things considered, for the money, Yaesu has a winner if you desire all
the features that can be crammed into a small package. We're happy to see
them in the aviation market."
Hope that helps.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
In a message dated 5/1/99 15:09:27, fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal
stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor.
At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the fiberglass
fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16"
I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new RV-6A
nose gear leg equipped planes.
I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear.
Thank you if you can give me your measurements.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
>>
Why don't you just fly it to FTG and we'll measure them side by side? Also
have my hangar mates unused leg leanign against teh hangar wall. Or we
could flip a coin If I win I can come up there and I'll show you mine if you
show me yours.
Gotta do it soon as I am amputating it next week. How abotu Monday?
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
In a message dated 5/1/99 4:10:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
<< Has anyone used an arrangement that involved springs that hugged the muff,
but did not touch the exhaust? Or, maybe if the springs were welded to the
exhaust?? There has to be a way to keep this type of wear from happening,
and
still get the needed effect. >>
Oh you guys are so carraazy. Just use the stainless steel wool pads or try
some medium to light springs. This isn't rocket science. I would think that
the pipes could only be damaged by an extremely robust spring. That gives
you some latitude.
McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of real long stainless steel springs in
every diameter and wire size. I would think that many of these would
certainly work well for the next thirty or so years. I do agree that muffs
should checked regularly (I certainly try to check every muff I can).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
><< If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have
>an item
> to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for
> wear. >>
>Has anyone used an arrangement that involved springs that hugged the
>muff,
>but did not touch the exaust? Or, maybe if the springs were welded to
>the
>exaust?? There has to be a way to keep this type of wear from
>happening, and
>still get the needed effect.
>
>
For many years (on and off the list) I have been recommending the use of
stainless steel pot scrubing pads ( also mentioned recently by an poster
in this thread).
They do the same job as the springs (better actually) and they wont wear
through the exhaust pipe. They can wear the aluminum on a heat muff
slightly but it is very slow and wont likely have much effect on the
overall life span of the muff.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal
>stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor.
>
>At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the
>fiberglass
>fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16"
>
>I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new
>RV-6A
>nose gear leg equipped planes.
>
>I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear.
>Thank you if you can give me your measurements.
>
>RV-6A Flying
>Salida, CO
>
>
I have no explanation for why you seem to have had a change.
FYI.. the engine/prop configuration is also likely to produce a very
measurable difference between and airplane with 180/constant speed versus
a 150/wood prop.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Hi Scott,
>I replaced the nose gear strut on the -6A with a "new" one and there
>was no
>change in fuselage attitude(aircraft on ground)after the replacement.
>Before
>and after attitude was identical. When I called Van's to get info on
>making
>the swap I was told to send in the "old" one so that the "new" one
>would be
>drilled to match. I did that and when I received the "new" one the
>bolt hole
>for the bracket that holds the nose wheel stop was drilled 90 degrees
>in
>contrast to the old one that I sent to Van's. Why????
>AL Malecha
>
-
Since the leg was being redesigned to improve the fatigue life and
strength this was one other change that was made.
The major load on the gear leg is pu and down, which is fwd and aft on
the portion that receives the nose wheel fork.
The orientation for the bolt that gives the most strength at this point
is so that the bending load is applied from one side of the hole to the
other instead of along its length.
If you look at the bolt hole for the brake mount flanges on the main gear
legs, they also have the holes drilled so that the main load is applied
to the leg on each side of the hole not acrossed its length.
This is a very simplified description with out getting into details of
how the bending load is distributed through the leg itself (I couldn't
think of how to describe it without sketching with a pen), but it is
stronger.
No problem has ever been detected with this part of the leg previously
but since changes were being made, it was changed to get the most
life/strength possible.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Oh you guys are so carraazy. Just use the stainless steel wool pads
>or try
>some medium to light springs. This isn't rocket science. I would
>think that
>the pipes could only be damaged by an extremely robust spring. That
>gives
>you some latitude.
>
>McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of real long stainless steel
>springs in
>every diameter and wire size. I would think that many of these would
>certainly work well for the next thirty or so years. I do agree that
>muffs
>should checked regularly (I certainly try to check every muff I can).
>
>-GV
>
>
Do you really think having a concern about CO poisoning is "crazy".
I have seen this happen because of the use of springs.
Your right... not every installation with springs will necessarily have a
wear through problem, but why take a chance.
Personally I think the idea of using a softer spring is a bad idea.
It may allow more wear because vibration could cause more movement.
Who knows?
Who cares?
When their is an alternative to a procedure that has show evidence of a
problem then why use the procedure that has the (potential) problem?
Most of all I think you should be ashamed of your self for calling me (or
any one else) crazy just because their own experience has shown that
something you advocate may be a bad idea. :-)
Scott (wont put springs on my heat muffs) McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question |
>
> << Granted it does not have the removeable yolk, >>
>
> So, what "size" is the built-in yoke?
The 'yolk' has 1.5" reach. Also it only weighs 1.5 lbs.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
Subject: | Re: a flying adventure of sorts (long) |
I bought bags of appropriately threaded "hardware store" nuts for temporary use
when fitting parts before final assembly. I install them and torque them if
need be, then remove them before final assembly. Then at final assembly I use
a
nylock or whatever is called for. These nuts are ALWAYS torqued right then and
there. That way, if it has the "final" nut on it, I know it's torqued.
Just my own personal procedure..... Torque seal is always a good idea too.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Ailerons/Flaps finally done!!
Gar & Jan Pessel wrote:
> 2) The lesson here for builders is an important one. In the process of
> assembling parts, hoses, push rods, etc., we often assemble things without
> torqueing nuts and fittings to final values for safe flight. How many
> things on the project are actually in this condition? My project is now
> starting to sprout little pieces of tape on things that are not fastened
> securely. It would be oh so easy to miss something important, if you are
> not completely systematic about connecting AND tightening AND inserting
> cotter pins where required. Torque seal, white paint, or whatever dabbed on
> parts that have been tightened makes it so much more obvious what has been
> done, and what has been left for later.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Sorting Outlook Express |
Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that one would
have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the
other personal stuff that comes in?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
Subject: | Electric aileron trim for sale |
I have chosen against installing the electric aileron trim in my -6.
I'll sell the trim kit, complete and untouched, still in box/bag for
$175 (now $200 from Van's).
E-mail off-line if interested.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Ailerons/Flaps finally done!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
Subject: | Wood prop bolts.... |
Does anyone know if 3/8" bolt holes in a wood prop can be drilled out to
7/16". I am looking at buying an O-320 with 7/16" prop mount bolt holes
and a Warnke prop with 3/8" mounting holes. My thinking is that a prop
shop could easily enlarge the prop holes to fit. I'd rather have 7/16"
bolts than 3/8".
Any experience, wisdom or knowledge?
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Ailerons/Flaps finally done!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
>
> Here's an idea I had about mounting a lipstick type video camera. "Borrow"
> an electric
> remote side view mirror adjust system ala Ford Explorer or other fine
> automobile
> and use it to remotely position the camera which could be mounted behind
> the plexiglass of
> your favorite brand of landing/taxi light. Just and idea mind you.....
>
> Ed Cole
I too would like to mount a remote camera on my aircraft. I considered an
electric remote side mirror off a late model car to the point where I looked
at several that I was able to remove from their housings. I took home and
tested a mount from a 1999 Chrysler LHS on a 12v battery and decided that it
wouldn't work for three reasons:
1 - It doesn't move far enough. The camera will not be able to tilt and pan
enough to be very usefull.
2 - It moves too slow.
3 - The platform that moves doesn't seem solid enough.
Lets keep this thread going? Are there any other ideas out there?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Subject: | The Abacos, Bahamas |
Andy Hanna encouraged me to fly to the islands after SNF. I contacted the
AOPA website and finally found the info regarding experimental class
aircraft flying to the Bahamas. Your membership card has the hot line
number to call for a complete package. The 2 day fed-ex shipping charge of
$27 was a surprise. I gathered all the documents for N3773 and faxed them
to the civil air people after discovering that their e-mail doesn't work.
I started this process very late and only had a couple of days before we
were to leave for Lakeland. The person who reviews the faxes apparently
doesn't work every day. The woman on the phone however was pleasant and
tried to push my application thru. One document you need is a radio
station license. The US application has a temporary license to get you
thru until the permanent one arrives. It is good for 3 weeks. The top of
the form just didn't get mailed. Yes, the license costs $105.
The weather was bad on the day we were to leave, freezing rain from surface
to 3500' reported east of the Cascades. Still no reply. But the next
morning it arrived by fax, an 8 day window for permission to fly to the
Bahamas.
From Sun-N-Fun we flew to Lantana, just south of West Palm Beach where
we
picked up a pair of life jackets and checked with the locals on procedures.
I filed a flight plan for VFR. I was flying out to sea with the idea of
climbing to healthy altitudes to maintain glide distances when I realized
that the holes in the clouds were disappearing. We dove down and leveled
out at 1400'. So much for glide angles, time to believe in the odds and
Lycoming. We flew over Bimini, circled and headed next to the big island
where Freeport is located. We flew over the outer cays of The Abacos and
into Marsh Harbour. Just as we touched down I heard a radio transmission
inquiring about our whereabouts. Because we left Lantana 15 mins before
indicated in our flight plan I mistakenly thought that I had some extra
time to sightsee. The rules also state that you must give them an hours
notice before entering their country. Well at 20 minutes to the second
Miami Center was looking for my plane.
Customs was a joke. They didn't look at the plane and my 12" numbers,
they didn't ask about the experimental status, they didn't check our
luggage. I parked next to two other RV's on the ramp. There were no tie
downs, but fuel was $2/gal! With no reservations we ended up finally in
Hope Town on Elbow Cay, a cute, historic village where the main street is
all of 8' wide. I won't bore you with the details of paradise.
On the trip back we called Miami Center 15 mins before reaching the ADIZ
and were given a squawk code. We had to land at West Palm Beach because
Lantana isn't a port of entry. Again, no one checked anything except the
customs sticker($25) which I had prepurchased in Portland, though I could
have waited until there. Flew back to Lantana to return the life jackets.
The SOB there charged us $56 for the 4 day rental even tho the jackets only
cost $12 a piece new.
It was on to Raleigh-Durham, College Park (DC), Columbus OH, Palwaukee
IL(with a great ride up the lakeshore right past Meigs Field) and get this,
we get stuck in fog in Hettinger ND for two days. With ceilings of 100'
and .2 mi visibility even the turbine Thrush crop duster landed, but who
reportedly had passed thru just 2 hrs before? The factory 8A with Benedict
hoping to get home! Saw the pregnant Explorer II go by the next day near
Boise.
That's it. Get busy, just get it flying, there's fun times to be had,
besides that unpainted plane looks more adventuresome to most people.
kevin n3773 6A 450 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Sorting Inbox Of Outlook Express 5 |
Thanks for all of the reply's so fast but the new Outlook 5 doesn't have an
inbox assistant in the tools menu. I'm still trying to find a way to have
all of the List mail go into a separate inbox.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg |
Thank You Scott,
Your message and explanation is most appreciated. It is a credit to Van's
and RV owners to have someone like you at HQ to talk to and get our
questions answered. Keep up the good work and best regards,
AL Malecha, RV-6A, Ryan Field, Tucson, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
Doug,
From my experience, I've found that at 165 mph I need a small amount
of rudder trim to keep the ball centered ( with straight vertical fin ). At
185 mph, I have too much trim.
With all the command I have with the rudder on my RV4, I wouldn't
advise offsetting the vertical fin.
If you did offset it a small amount, you wouldn't need a trim tab though.
With all the RV4's that are out there you ought to be able to get enough
information to know exactly if or how much to offset without even needing
a trim tab.
So at 185 mph, my RV4 using a very thin wedge for a trim tab has too
much trim with a straight vertical stab.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
----------
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S
> prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical
> fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have
> heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven
> visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any
> consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect).
> Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim
> using the landing gear fairings. What say you?
>
> Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling |
Chris,
The lycoming engine already has a vernatherm that
if working properly does this temp regulating.
Stewart, RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wood prop bolts.... |
Why don't you ask your prop man? On the other hand, 3/8" bolts are just as
strong in this application as 7/16" It dopesn't look that way but you are
limited to about 250 inch-pounds of torque before you start damaaging the
wooden prop. Your prop is driven by friction not by the shear strength of
the bolts or the drive lugs. Lose the tension on the bolts and the bolts and
drive lugs will fail. It is probably a wash money-wise. Boring the holes
out or replacing with 3/8" thread drive lugs will cost just about the same.
But ask your prop man!
BTW. Make sure to check the torque of whatever bolts you use frequently, at
least every 25 hours. Make the first check within 5 hours of your
installation. Go to the Sensenich prop web site for more info...
http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/usencare.htm This site is for
certified props but the info is very good. Just because you are flying
experimental, it doesn't change the physics of the situation. The O-320 has
a smaller flange designed for metal props so you have a compromise to start.
Good luck and check the torque frequently. Ask Dick Rutan aboput propless
flight. And use Prop bolts not class 8. They are designed for use on props.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 12:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wood prop bolts....
>
>Does anyone know if 3/8" bolt holes in a wood prop can be drilled out to
>7/16". I am looking at buying an O-320 with 7/16" prop mount bolt holes
>and a Warnke prop with 3/8" mounting holes. My thinking is that a prop
>shop could easily enlarge the prop holes to fit. I'd rather have 7/16"
>bolts than 3/8".
>
>Any experience, wisdom or knowledge?
>
>Jon Elford
>RV6 #25201
>Ailerons/Flaps finally done!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
Subject: | RE: Sorting Outlook Express |
> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Sorting Outlook Express
>
> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that
> one would
> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the
> other personal stuff that comes in?
You need to set up a "rule" that will automatically move RV messages out of
your regular inbox and into another folder.
I believe Outlook Express (the free one that you can download and that ships
with Windows) doesn't have rules, but Outlook (which ships with Exchange
Server and with Office) does.
Possible Workaround: Use "Digest" mode. Then you only have a one
message/day to deal with.
- Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "james freeman" <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
----------
>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: camera port
>Date: Sat, May 1, 1999, 11:37 PM
>
> I too would like to mount a remote camera on my aircraft. I considered an
> electric remote side mirror off a late model car to the point where I looked
> at several that I was able to remove from their housings. I took home and
> tested a mount from a 1999 Chrysler LHS on a 12v battery and decided that it
> wouldn't work for three reasons:
>(snip)
> Lets keep this thread going? Are there any other ideas out there?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
I have been looking at this too, but for the moment I'm just planning to
mount small fixed board cameras in the fairings of the vertical stab and a
wingtip. These cameras are available in the $100-$200 range, will typically
run on 5-12 v DC and will work with a camcorder in the cockpit.
Weatherproof color video cameras in a "lipstick" case are available for $220
or so and could be mounted almost anywhere.
If you want to pan a video( or still) camera, try using a Basic Stamp
microcontroller and RC servos. This may be more trouble than you want but
look at http//www.seetron.com or www.parallaxinc.com for more info
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
Subject: | Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all.
>
> Now, do I put them in series or in parallel?
Finn, I have two Facet pumps and NO engine driven pump...they work
quite well. One pump comes on with the master switch and the other
comes on with the STBY switch. You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an
internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve.
They MUST be counted in parallel.
An economical source for Facet pumps is Advance Fuels, PO Box 175,
Little Rock, CA 93543, 805-944-1496. MTBF is 5000 hours. Factory
recommends mounting with the outlet higher than the inlet in order to
more easily pass vapor. My standby pump has its own little standby
battery though I think a meltdown of the main battery is unlikely.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Flight Test
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: a flying adventure of sorts (long) |
Re: "A fool finds salvation", a gas line coming off 15 yards from the fuel
pump.
A long time ago in another lifetime, a fellow race car mechanic taught me the
following mantra: "NEVER tighten a nut/screw/etc. finger tight". Think about
it. If the nut is obviously loose, the chances are good that you will see it.
If its finger tight, it looks fully tight, and you will find out at the least
opportune time that it wasn't.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Torque all nuts/bolts |
>Torque seal, white paint, or whatever dabbed on parts that have been
tightened >makes it so much more obvious what has been done, and what has
been left for >later.
When I was working as a mechanic, we were working on a Cessna 180 and were
doing something to the ailerons, necessitating disconnecting the
behind-the-panel mechanism, which is a set of cables connected to a chain.
There is a VERY small bolt and nut (can't remember what size) that was
cottered. I was upside down, under the panel, putting in that REALLY LITTLE
cotter key, thinking of what would happen if that insiginificant looking
cotter was left out. There are no 'small' nuts in an airplane.
As I was putting Suzie Q together, bolts/nuts not being torqued was always
on my mind. When the time came for everything to be or have been torqued, I
went from front to back several times first torquing and marking, then
checking ALL things that needed tightening, including fuel fittings. ALL
bolts/nuts have been marked with yellow torque seal (marks them torqued and
that they have stayed that way) or another mark on everything else. And,
with all that, there can still be things that aren't torqued correctly. The
advice not to finger torque anything is a good one. What about castillated
nuts? Just because they are keyed does that mean they were adequately
adjusted? Mine do. I check 'em before I key 'em, not just key 'em.
During my conditional inspection, I make a list of things I take apart (fuel
lines, for example) and check them off only when I have torqued them back.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Waiting for the rain to stop.......
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 oil cooler lines |
Fellow Listers:
A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing his
oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from his
engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil going to
the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler. Does
it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks that
it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and cooled
oil out the bottom back to the engine.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers
i'm finished my wings and have 2 small bolts with a hole in it and 2 cotter
keys, i can't find anything on the prints about these, anyone who has
completed their wings with a fresh memory please help.
thanks
scott
was winging it in tampa
now con-fusalaged
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make |
Fellow builders,
I have been pondering how to pass my control cables through the firewall
and also anchor them at the same time. I found just what I was looking
for on page 151 of AS 1999 catalogue, the Cable Safe. Eight and 16 buck
versions.
Well, I decided that I could make these a heck of a lot cheaper. For
control cables such as the A-740 (3/16" OD cable) you need:
1 AN832-4D Flared tube bulkhead fitting
1 AN924-4D Nut (retaining)
1 AN818 -4D Nut (flare)
1 AN819-4D Sleeve (optional)
The inside diameter of the bulkhead fitting is not quite 3/16" and needs
to be reamed to .188" After reaming, cut the short flared end off. The
fitting now looks like a hollow bolt. On the remaining flare end, cut
two slots about .250" deep and 90 degrees to each other. cut these slots
as if you were trying to split the fitting right down the middle. The
idea here is to create a collet out of this end. The Bulkhead Cable
Clamp is now done. Slide the cable through the fitting, and install the
AN819 sleeve and AN818 flare nut and tighten down.
I tested the holding power of the clamp and could not pull the cable out
no matter how hard I pulled.
My mixture and throttle cables needed a different version of the above
clamp. They are ACS cables with a polyolifin outer cover and 10-32 8deg
swivel ends. For these I used the following:
1 AN832-6D Flared tube bulkhead fitting
1 AN924-6D Nut
1 AN818-6D Nut (flare)
Same basic procedure as for the 3/16 cable clamp with one major change.
Split the fitting lengthwise on one of the collet cuts. The fitting is
also of the correct ID and no reaming is needed. To install, run the
cable, fit the Cable clamp around the cable and insert in the hole in
the firewall, Install the AN924 and AN818 nuts and tighten.
Cost for each clamp is about U$3.50
Enjoy.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make |
>Fellow builders,
>
>I have been pondering how to pass my control cables through the firewall
>and also anchor them at the same time. I found just what I was looking
>for on page 151 of AS 1999 catalogue, the Cable Safe. Eight and 16 buck
>versions.
>
>Well, I decided that I could make these a heck of a lot cheaper. For
>control cables such as the A-740 (3/16" OD cable) you need:
>
>1 AN832-4D Flared tube bulkhead fitting
>1 AN924-4D Nut (retaining)
>1 AN818 -4D Nut (flare)
>1 AN819-4D Sleeve (optional)
>
>The inside diameter of the bulkhead fitting is not quite 3/16" and needs
>to be reamed to .188" After reaming, cut the short flared end off. The
>fitting now looks like a hollow bolt. On the remaining flare end, cut
>two slots about .250" deep and 90 degrees to each other. cut these slots
>as if you were trying to split the fitting right down the middle. The
>idea here is to create a collet out of this end. The Bulkhead Cable
>Clamp is now done. Slide the cable through the fitting, and install the
>AN819 sleeve and AN818 flare nut and tighten down.
>
>I tested the holding power of the clamp and could not pull the cable out
>no matter how hard I pulled.
>
>My mixture and throttle cables needed a different version of the above
>clamp. They are ACS cables with a polyolifin outer cover and 10-32 8deg
>swivel ends. For these I used the following:
>
>1 AN832-6D Flared tube bulkhead fitting
>1 AN924-6D Nut
>1 AN818-6D Nut (flare)
>
>Same basic procedure as for the 3/16 cable clamp with one major change.
>Split the fitting lengthwise on one of the collet cuts. The fitting is
>also of the correct ID and no reaming is needed. To install, run the
>cable, fit the Cable clamp around the cable and insert in the hole in
>the firewall, Install the AN924 and AN818 nuts and tighten.
>
>Cost for each clamp is about U$3.50
>
>Enjoy.
>
>Gary Zilik
Gary,
Great information!
Now, your next assignment: design a similar setup for the -4, -3 and -8
drivers who have to run the mixture/throttle cables at a radical angle
through the firewall. The "eyeball" bulkhead fittings sure do a nice job,
but at $26 EACH? Ouch! (I've become financially challenged by now....every
dollar hurts.)
You now have your orders. Your reward, should you accept this mission, Mr.
Phelps, ("Mission Impossible" theme song ensues) is a plateload of green
chile enchiladas courtesy of the the State of New Mexico and ME! Of course,
you have to fly down here to get it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
cables, primer lines, baffles, etc. etc.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net> |
Subject: | substructure dimple |
Listers,
I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to
be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the
substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would
need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really
don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts?
Charlie Oglesby
Winter Haven, FL
Shopping For Tools
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Slotted T-405 Tank Attach Angle |
Buiders,
Searched but have not located slot depth dimension (see p 11, 1st '98
issue "The RVator"). Someone please provide either slot depth or distance
from angle base reference datum. A dimension using center of slot radius is
also very acceptable. (No hint found on RV-8 Wing Fuel Tank DWG 16. If I
missed something I'll appreciate being corrected.)
Thanks, Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
RV-8, preparing wing & tank parts
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make |
>Now, your next assignment: design a similar setup for the -4, -3 and -8
>drivers who have to run the mixture/throttle cables at a radical angle
>through the firewall. The "eyeball" bulkhead fittings sure do a nice job,
>but at $26 EACH? Ouch! (I've become financially challenged by now....every
>dollar hurts.)
[snip]
Good post Brian! My sentiments exactly!
Randall Henderson
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 Aileron Stop |
Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The instructions
say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required?
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q #591 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.J. Banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptdprolog.net> |
Subject: | Re: substructure dimple |
do not use tank dies on thin metal it enlarges the hole too much
Charlie Oglesby wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to
> be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the
> substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would
> need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really
> don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts?
>
> Charlie Oglesby
> Winter Haven, FL
> Shopping For Tools
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: Slotted T-405 Tank Attach Angle |
Jack,
If I'm understanding you question correctly, you don't want to slot
until you drill the T-405 in place, mating to fuselage, while setting
up the incidence. Then just slot to the end of the angle.
Hope this helps
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV-6 - Tanks
At 12:19 AM 5/3/99 GMT, you wrote:
>
>Buiders,
> Searched but have not located slot depth dimension (see p 11, 1st '98
>issue "The RVator"). Someone please provide either slot depth or distance
>from angle base reference datum. A dimension using center of slot radius is
>also very acceptable. (No hint found on RV-8 Wing Fuel Tank DWG 16. If I
>missed something I'll appreciate being corrected.)
>Thanks, Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
>RV-8, preparing wing & tank parts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel? |
-----Original Message-----
>You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an
>internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve.
I don't believe that statement is true. All Facet solid-state pumps have a
foot valve which functions as a check valve. Fuel cannot back flow on any
model. The foot valve only opens when the plunger draws a vacuum (relative
to inlet pressure) on the foot valve. The only difference between part
numbers is in details like pressure range (regulated by an internal spring),
wire configuration and port sizes (there is a version with male 6AN ports).
I don't have my Facet catalog handy, so I can't tell you the difference
between the 108 and 109 until I dig it out. If you want to see a cross
section of one of these pumps, check out their web site:
http://www.facet-purolator.com/electri.htm
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Aileron deflection problem on 6A |
Guys,
I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get
25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron
bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way
I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge
to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done?
TIA!
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 - jumping from one thing to another as parts trickle in.
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: substructure dimple |
Charlie,
I see your logic and wondered the same things. I have found no fitting problems
using the same dimple dies for both skin and substructure. For the tanks I used
normal everyday dimple dies and gave each dimple a touchup with with a 100 deg.
countersink. In fact, I touched up every dimple on the skin of my plane with a
couple of turns of the countersink.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
Pine Junction, CO
Charlie Oglesby wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to
> be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the
> substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would
> need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really
> don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Sorting Outlook Express |
If your version permits it, select "tools" then "inbox assistant" and add a
rule that if the message contains "rv-list" or "re-rv" then put the message
in a designated folder. Message will be put there and not in your "inbox".
Good luck!
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark S. Jennings <markjenn(at)halcyon.com>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
>
>> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>> Subject: RV-List: Sorting Outlook Express
>>
>> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that
>> one would
>> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the
>> other personal stuff that comes in?
>
>You need to set up a "rule" that will automatically move RV messages out of
>your regular inbox and into another folder.
>
>I believe Outlook Express (the free one that you can download and that
ships
>with Windows) doesn't have rules, but Outlook (which ships with Exchange
>Server and with Office) does.
>
>Possible Workaround: Use "Digest" mode. Then you only have a one
>message/day to deal with.
>
>- Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend.
It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it. It
will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with
a
2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West
area..
Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one
who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it is
free..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 oil cooler lines |
In a message dated 5/2/99 2:49:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing his
oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from his
engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil going to
the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler. Does
it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks that
it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and cooled
oil out the bottom back to the engine. >>
IMO the hot outgoing oil from the engine block should always go into the
bottom port on the oil cooler so that any air that becomes trapped is
naturally purged out from the bottom up. This way it works with the physics
of the situation rather than fighting them.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection problem on 6A |
You got it...
>Guys,
>
>I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get
>25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron
>bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way
>I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge
>to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Subject: | Re: substructure dimple |
Charlie,
You may very well have read about using the tank dies on substructure in
my product review of the Cleaveland tank dimple dies:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tankdies.html
The first time I heard of this method was during a conversation with
Mike Lauritsen of Cleaveland Tools when he recommended the use of the
tank dies on substructure. They apparently used them on their personal
projects and liked the results.
I subsequently started using the tank dies on much of the substructure
of my RV6 and found no adverse effects due to their use. Do the tank
dies make for tighter fitting skins? I am not sure, since once the rivet
gun gets through pounding the living daylights out of the poor rivet,
most slop will probably be taken up anyway. :-)
I highly recommend the use of the tank dies on fuel tanks, however.
Sam Buchanan (still getting ready to get ready to build the paint
booth...)
"The RV Journal" htp://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
"J.J. Banks" wrote:
>
>
> do not use tank dies on thin metal it enlarges the hole too much
>
> Charlie Oglesby wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to
> > be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the
> > substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would
> > need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really
> > don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Charlie Oglesby
> > Winter Haven, FL
> > Shopping For Tools
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 oil cooler lines |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing
>his
>oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from
>his
>engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil
>going to
>the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler.
>Does
>it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks
>that
>it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and
>cooled
>oil out the bottom back to the engine.
>
>Doug
>
>
>===========
>Doug Weiler
>Hudson, WI
>715-386-1239
>dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
-
Unless it is not possible because of the installation, I prefer to route
oil "In" to the cooler at the bottom and "Out" of the cooler at the top.
This helps to make sure that the cooler fills with oil entirely, and
purges all of the air instead of letting oil dribble from the top to the
bottom and possibly entrapping air in a portion of it.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | FtWorth Seminar Location and Accomodations |
We've updated the location and local accomodations for
the June 5-6 seminar in Ft.Worth, Tx. Interested
parties can click on:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/whereis.html#ftworth
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jefft" <jefft(at)chatlink.com> |
Yea Brother Reed to that I say 'AMEN'. I just can't wait for the Cinco
whatever potluck. Oh Boy! Between you and me I'm thinking of dropping 725
and joining up with MFR. I have your package from Vans and will drop it off
tomorrow. Cheers, JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
> Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social
clubs
> with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain
knowledge.
> Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I
> belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short
of
> volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing
then
> by all means join just to meet people with like interests.
>
> Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop
>
>
> >
> . You will
> >learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing>
> >Irv 80110
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Recombinant Gas (RG) Sealed Batteries |
>A) Is there an industry standard as to terminal
> configuration, i.e. 5/16 or 3/8 threaded stud??
>
>B) If I were to buy the battery early for wiring and
> installation reasons, would I risk deterioration
> while it sat on the shelf for X months??
>
>For CG reasons, battery installation is normally last,
>yet I would like to have the wiring in place, which
>means correctly sized terminations. Any reasonable
>answers accepted.
If a "standard" exists, it's only because all of the
24-32 a.h. flooded batteries for airplanes have used
5/16" terminals. In the modern RG batteries, you'll
find terminals of 1/4" to 5/16" . . .
Buy your flying battery the week you intend to fly.
Use an el-cheepo boat or tractor battery to check
things out in the shop. Some builders are taking
advantage of a plug-in-the-wall power supply we
offer that will run a full-up airplane electrical
system on the ground. See . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>> Sorry for wasted band width.
>> Someone was posting to me about electric flap relays but I accidently did
>> the big delete.
We stock an very handy relay suited for PM motor flap
systems. Our S704-1 relay can be viewed from our
website catalog at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: substructure dimple |
charlie,
i built 1 tank with the regular dies, and the second tank with the tank dies,
( get the tank dies and dimple structure and skin with them, much better
results
scott
6a
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
Just another idea.
I bought a sheet of 2 color laminated plastic (Matte gray and white). I then
laid it on the panel and cut the instrument holes through it. After I had
done that I took it to the local engraver and had all the switch and
instrument names cut out so the white shows through. the plastic cost $50.00
and the engraving cost $80.00 and it looks really nice. The only problem is
you have to be VERY careful or you'll scratch off the topcoat of plastic (Ask
me how I know).
Another plus is if you change your mind and want to change the configuration,
it's easy to replace
Regards, Merle
RV-4 Chevy doing wiring and such
...and preliminary indications are it's going to be light for a Chevy powered
plane
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
At Sun'n'Fun I talked with a Swedish RV builder. He said he had changed the
design of the vertical stabilizer to make it more like a wing (I think he said
he
added 1/4" to the left side of the foward spar, but I'm not sure). The idea is
to
make the side-ways "lift" vary with speed, so no additional trim is needed
throughout the entire speed range.
Not sure if this is really doable, but thought I'd relay the idea.
Finn
JimNolan wrote:
>
> Doug,
> From my experience, I've found that at 165 mph I need a small amount
> of rudder trim to keep the ball centered ( with straight vertical fin ). At
> 185 mph, I have too much trim.
> With all the command I have with the rudder on my RV4, I wouldn't
> advise offsetting the vertical fin.
> If you did offset it a small amount, you wouldn't need a trim tab though.
> With all the RV4's that are out there you ought to be able to get enough
> information to know exactly if or how much to offset without even needing
> a trim tab.
> So at 185 mph, my RV4 using a very thin wedge for a trim tab has too
> much trim with a straight vertical stab.
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> ----------
> > Fellow Listers:
> >
> > I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S
> > prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical
> > fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have
> > heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven
> > visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any
> > consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect).
> > Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim
> > using the landing gear fairings. What say you?
> >
> > Doug
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
>I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4. What is the
>general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical fin in order to
minimize >or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.?
I had looked at as many RVs as I could get my eyes on and all but a few had
a rudder trim tab. SO....offsetting the vertical seemed like a pretty good
idea to me. Problem is, how much is enough. I guessed 1/4 inch and, if you
look at my rudder, I still have a rudder tab. So I don't know what to tell
you. I guess offset it some and trim out the rest. Won't hurt unless you go
the wrong way, then you'll have a really big trim tab.
I used the wedge trim tab and it looks just fine. Works pretty well, too.
You have to fly with all the fairings on (landing gear) to determine exactly
how big the tab will be. Then it is trial and error. Suzie Q flys hands off,
but I like to keep a hand on anyway.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Not flying enough
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-4 vertical fin offset |
What an intriguing thought process. Unfortunately it's a complex way of
achieving the same result as an offset, i.e. a fixed coefficient of lift
(side-ways). Doesn't matter whether its from an asymmetric airfoil or a
symmetric one at an angle of attack, the CL will produce a balancing side
force at only one airspeed. I doubt you could broaden the speed band with
more sophisticated airfoils or analysis, but my AAE degree is too rusty to
prove it. Even if theoretically possible, it would get probably get lost in
the noise of variations in engine, prop and airframe rig.
BTW, my vertical fin is mounted without (intentional;
) offset.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
Houston (DWH)
>
> At Sun'n'Fun I talked with a Swedish RV builder. He said he had
> changed the
> design of the vertical stabilizer to make it more like a wing (I
> think he said he
> added 1/4" to the left side of the foward spar, but I'm not
> sure). The idea is to
> make the side-ways "lift" vary with speed, so no additional trim is needed
> throughout the entire speed range.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | LRI indicator and accelerated stalls |
Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at high
loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will the
LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Sorting Outlook Express |
>> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that
>> one would
>> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the
>> other personal stuff that comes in?
I don't know about Outlook Express but the free version of Eudora has very
good mail filters. So does the Netscape mail reader.
I have mine set up so that my mailing list mail is automatically shunted
from my inbox to a separate mailbox for each mailing list.
Oh, and I also wrote rules that examine the body of the message for things
like:
"HOT SEX"
"mail addresses"
and automatically routes them to the trash mailbox for future perusal. I
had to turn off my filters for "juno.com" and "hotmail.com" because they
were discarding email from some people on the list. (But it also
automatically discarded email from my ex-wife which I thought was a
positive side effect but I digress.)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
Craig,
I prefer the back pack, because it is much easier to move around in and
if one had to bail out, it is easier to move quickly. I have the seat
pack due to the configuration of the airplane, it is the only thing that
will fit in the rear seat.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
>>>one seat and one back and I am quite happy with the quality
>and
>> comfort of them.
>>
>
>
>Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type?
>
>Craig Hiers
>
>
>
---
>
---
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 vertical fin offset |
I was surprised to read that posting that said that the "majority" of RVs
have a rudder trim installed. I just finished my rudder and didn't even
think to deviate from the plans to the extent of putting something like that
in. First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it worth
the weight? I assume it's a system like the elevator trim, or are your
referring to something more simple? Second, how would I go about making
this -- just copy what was done for the elevator? Third, did those of you
that put in a rudder trim do anything at this stage or did you retrofit one
in later?
Just asking these questions is getting me to think that applying a little
rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get tired
may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't have a
rudder trim in your RV? Thanks for the help.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A Wing on order, new workshop almost done
Pittsburgh, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Subject: | school bus strobes |
I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c
flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system
has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression
option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no
noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the
plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and
the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The
moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it
thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside
the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice
tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a
3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some
brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS
carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats
Whelens hands down. kevin 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu> |
Subject: | Beagle Aviation Shirts |
Listers,
At the Sun-n-Fun RV banquet I was lucky enough to win a shirt from Beagle
Aviation. I received the shirt over the weekend and it is wonderful. I
hope my RV turns out as nice as the one embroidered on the shirt. Now that
I have the shirt I better finish the plane :).
He had many different RVs to choose from, not to mention other airplanes.
The address is www.beagleav.com. Check it out!
Patty Gillies
gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
RV-6, Finish Kit, South Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum |
I talked to Dick Waters this morning and he has rec'd and torn down Dick
Pearson's engine. The failure was due to a broken crank. The crank broke at
the journal support and Dick said that in his 31 years in the business and
2100+ engines sold he'd never seen this kind of break before and this was a
certified "yellow tagged" crank.
Dick is overhauling the case, replacing a rod and installing a "yellow
tagged" crank. He expects to ship Dick Pearson's engine back to him, at No
Cost, by the end of the week.
If any one has any questions you can ccontact Dick Waters can be at (800)
366-4746.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I am finding that my oil cooler does an excellent job at maintaining oil
temps, although I have not flown thru a summer yet. I do seem to have a
40-50 degree CHT spread between cyls #1,2 and #3,4. The front two
cylinders are running around 335 degrees, rear cylinders 375 degrees. I
talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop
rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front
and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps
on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the
size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close
to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others
on this.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
RV-8 20 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Does anyone have a report on Margie Warnke props since see took over from her
father?? Was thinking of ordering one for my RV-3,160hp...Have one from her
father on my 125hp model and its great.....Jim Brown, Matawan, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc attached to
usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a cable
controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication. I
do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying about
a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking ones
are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of
heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the other
half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with
seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>I was surprised to read that posting that said that the "majority" of
>RVs
>have a rudder trim installed. I just finished my rudder and didn't
>even
>think to deviate from the plans to the extent of putting something
>like that
>in. First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it
>worth
>the weight? I assume it's a system like the elevator trim, or are
>your
>referring to something more simple? Second, how would I go about
>making
>this -- just copy what was done for the elevator? Third, did those of
>you
>that put in a rudder trim do anything at this stage or did you
>retrofit one
>in later?
>
>Just asking these questions is getting me to think that applying a
>little
>rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get
>tired
>may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't
>have a
>rudder trim in your RV? Thanks for the help.
>
>Peter Christensen
>RV-6A Wing on order, new workshop almost done
>Pittsburgh, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: school bus strobes |
Not only that Kevin, but Whelen will no longer service anything over ten years
old.
This is not old for airplane things. There are rotating beacons that are still
going at 40 years old. I think they just want everyone to buy their units every
10 or 12 years..
Phil
n3773 wrote:
>
> I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c
> flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system
> has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression
> option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no
> noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the
> plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and
> the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The
> moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it
> thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside
> the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice
> tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a
> 3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some
> brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS
> carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats
> Whelens hands down. kevin 6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum |
Chuck,
Was this crank yellow tagged by Nelson grinding in New Bedford, Mass.? I
believe that there was an AD for crankshaft that were reground by this
company. The feds shut them down last year, but not before hundreds of their
"yellow tagged" cranks were in the field. We had 2 failures here at our
airport (Danbury, CT) a C-172 and an Aerostar. A local shop had eleven yellow
tagged Nelson cranks on his shelf, seven of which were found to have cracks.
Most of these cranks seem to have been circulated throughout the northeast.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Rocketmen!
This past weekend, Mark "Techman" Frederick, of Team Rocket , entered and
handily won the Texas 100 Air Race in his Rocket, "Check Six!". This 100 mile
standing start race is an annual event, run in conjunction with the
Georgetown (Texas) Air Show.
Mark's speed was 236.7 MPH/206 KT -- fast enough to beat the #2 ship, a Piper
Aerostar, by approx 5 MPH. Mark describes the race as follows: The engine
was run at full throttle (29" MP), with the prop set to 2500 RPM. EGT was set
at 1200F, with a resulting fuel flow of 21 GPH. The race was run at an
altitude of approx 1000' MSL, with ambient temp around 70F and humidity of
95% or so. Oil temp came up to 215 (Setrab 19 row cooler) and stayed there.
Indicated speeds were 225-230 MPH. It seemed to take about 3 minutes for the
speed to settle out, and slight turbulence certainly affected the ability to
maintain the top speed.
In comparison, at this year's Sun 100, Tom Hallendorf's "Super 6" turned 216
KT (if memory serves me correctly). The Super 6 houses 330 HP out of his
Lycon-built 540, 80 HP more than Mark's, at a stock 250HP. Evidently, Tim
Taylor is on the right track -- MORE HORSEPOWER! (grunt, grunt) :o)
This stuff is fun!
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Racing Rockets & Sun 100 |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
www.neatcars.com
>
>In comparison, at this year's Sun 100, Tom Hallendorf's "Super 6" turned 216
>KT (if memory serves me correctly). The Super 6 houses 330 HP out of his
>Lycon-built 540, 80 HP more than Mark's, at a stock 250HP. Evidently, Tim
>Taylor is on the right track -- MORE HORSEPOWER! (grunt, grunt) :o)
>
>This stuff is fun!
>
>
Speaking of the Sun 100, Can someone post the results. I missed it this
year.
Shelby
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Van's Capacitance Senders |
Talked to Dick Martin today who is the catalyst behind the new
capacitance senders that Van's is currently offering. Dick had offered
his assistance to the rv-list to answer questions about the new
senders. Dick prefers to visit about the senders by phone rather that
tue.& thur. - fri..
I promised a fellow builder that I would share my findings on the list.
The following is some of the key items discussed:
The wire from the sender plates is soldered to the center electrode of
the BNC. The BNC supplied with the kit have a hollow electrode and are
probably not a high quality BNC. Dick recommends getting good quality
Amphenol BNC's with a solid core elecrtode(female BNC around $10 each).
They are available at good electronic suppliers. The avionics shops may
have them too. The part of the BNC that is inside the tank MUST be
completely covered with proseal the proseal should extend out on the
wire about 1 1/2 inches to prevent fluid from reaching the BNC and
causing a short and rendering the guage useless. The wire between the
plates and BNC is wrapped around the vent line a few times(per plans)
and tacked to the vent line with proseal(not on plans). There is a small
lock washer with a solder lug furnished with the BNC in the kit. The
solder lug is a grounding lug which will not be used. If you were
installing the BNC in a non-metal tank, you would need to ground the
BNC. I will cut the lug off and just use the lock washer part.
There is also an interface module that must be used with the EI fuel
gauge. I,m not sure if it comes with the gauge or has to be purhcased
separately. The interface MUST be as close as possible to the BNC on
the outside of the tank in wing root area. Around 3" or 4" from BNC is
good. If this distance is farther, the guage will not be accurate. The
wiring from the fuel gauge attaches to the interface and the interface
attaches to the BNC.
The EI gauge documentation offers info on powering the gauge to test the
tank. Van's doesn't recommend testing tanks with fuel because it is
extremely dangerous. But, you cannot use a liquid, like water, to do
the test because the test liquid has to have the same coefficient of
capacitance as fuel. Water doesn't, so the readings will be incorrect.
If you use a couple of gallons of fuel to do the test, be very carful!!
The tanks must be drained and aired out to remove ALL fumes. You may
want to use a compressor to air tanks out for about 30 minutes or so.
I can pesonally say the senders are simple to install since I have
installed my left tank except for the BNC connector which I will
upgrade. Dick says the EI gauge with this setup is very accurate and
detects small changes in fuel level.
A big thanks to Dick Martin. This is all I know and Dick said to feel
free to call him at the number listed above with any questions.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
www.neatcars.com
----------
>From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum
>Date: Mon, May 3, 1999, 2:41 PM
>
>Chuck,
>
>Was this crank yellow tagged by Nelson grinding in New Bedford, Mass.? I
>believe that there was an AD for crankshaft that were reground by this
>company. The feds shut them down last year, but not before hundreds of their
>"yellow tagged" cranks were in the field. We had 2 failures here at our
>airport (Danbury, CT) a C-172 and an Aerostar. A local shop had eleven yellow
>tagged Nelson cranks on his shelf, seven of which were found to have cracks.
>Most of these cranks seem to have been circulated throughout the northeast.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bill Mahoney
>RV-6 N747W
I had someone try and sell me a crank from this guy. Nelson also did work
for the company that does some high performance stuff on aerobatic engines.
Dave Anders used some of there stuff on his engine. Oil sump and manifold, I
think. Anyway when I spoke to them they said they used Nelson.
Shelby in Nashville.
Skinning Fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doyon, Richard" <Richard.Doyon(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
A couple of days ago, some were asking about portable handhelds... Not that I want
to add to the discussion really, but I had this in an email from the auto-responder
at Avionic West.
"PORTABLE VHF TRANSCEIVERS
The hottest seller in portable equipment nowadays is the Yaesu Aviator
Pilot. This 16-key transceiver is the best portable VHF transceiver on
the market today. Read my "review" of this fine product. Pay $549.00
elsewhere, or Avionics West has them in stock for $499.00.
http://avionicswest.com/articles/articlevxa100.html#vxa"
You be the judge.
Rich
-6A, Empennage, fitting the skins on the spars
Everett, WA
***My comments do not represent my employer in any ways,
nor is an endorsement of my statements***
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
Thanks, Bob, these pixs are worth a thousand words. Nice job.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying N17PH@INT
RV-6 Tail Kit
Winston-Salem, NC
>
>I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
>shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
>in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
>click on . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Rudder Cable Slot |
Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the rudder
cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension..
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection problem on 6A |
In a message dated 5/2/99 21:21:44, zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
Guys,
I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get
25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron
bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way
I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge
to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done?
TIA!
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 - jumping from one thing to another as parts trickle in.
>>
That's what I did. first try rotating the bolt for minimum interference.
This is another reason you probably should have an aileron stop on the other
end of the aileron, near the push rod, otherwise this bolt will become the
stop which is probably not the best
DLWalsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99 |
Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find information
on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my
tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both
were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine
calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is
2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The
indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500 to
2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft
the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to
2200 yellow arc range.
What I don't know is:
What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the
combination of all or some.
I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies to
the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low
pitch stop) or flight operation.
I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up.
Cameron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Slot |
>
>
>Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the
rudder
>cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension..
>
>Kyle Boatright
Kyle,
Keep enlarging the slot until the plastic tubing is able to align with the
line you want your rudder cable to take. It will not have to be as big if
you will take something cylindrical of the size of the tubing and bend the
front of the slot out and the rear of the slot in.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP Waiting on inspection 5/14
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: school bus strobes |
Kevin, how about posting a name and phone number for acquisition of these
strobes? I assume it was ISS but a check of the Yeller Pages doesn't show
this name. Thanks
Marty RV6 in Nashville - Left Wing.
-----Original Message-----
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: school bus strobes
>
>I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c
>flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system
>has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression
>option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no
>noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the
>plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and
>the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The
>moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it
>thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside
>the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice
>tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a
>3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some
>brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS
>carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats
>Whelens hands down. kevin 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/3/99 1:50:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, n41va(at)Juno.com
writes:
<< The front two
cylinders are running around 335 degrees, rear cylinders 375 degrees. I
talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop
rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front
and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps
on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the
size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close
to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others
on this. >>
I had heard this from Steve Barnard on his IO-360 and put mine (O-360) in at
the very start. They work great to balance the temp delta. Mine cover the
entire finned head (not the barrel) height on the front two jugs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
In a message dated 5/3/99 12:09:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pchristensen(at)sel.com writes:
<< First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it worth
the weight? >>
IMO the standard rudder wedge described in the plans is the way to go. The
one on my 6A is described in detail in the archives. I take my feet off the
rudders as soon as I establish climb attitude.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: school bus strobes |
In a message dated 5/3/99 2:19:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sisson(at)ctnet.net
writes:
<< I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c
> flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system
> has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression
> option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. >>
Contact info (phone number, website) for Westar strobes please, for the
Yeller Pages.
thx
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | C/S Prop Limits (was re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99) |
>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find
information
>on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my
>tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both
>were purchased from Van's with my kit.
[snip!]
Funny you should ask! I just wrote an article about this for the RVator.
You'll have to wait till it comes out to get the whole thing, but in a
nutshell:
- For your combination, there is an "avoid continuous operation" range
between 2000 and 2250 RPM
- The info is in the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet #P-920, which can be
found at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcd5prop.htm
- These limits relate to specific engine/prop combinations, and are not tied
to any particular airframe, production or otherwise
- The TCDS specifies a placard for this combination. I don't suppose the
placard is necessarily required for homebuilts but if your FAA inspector may
not agree with me.
- The TCDS doesn't specify any top end limit for the prop, so I think it's
safe to say that would just be the engine redline.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99 |
>
>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find
information
>on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my
>tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both
>were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine
>calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is
>2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The
>indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500
to
>2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft
>the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to
>2200 yellow arc range.
>What I don't know is:
> What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the
>combination of all or some.
> I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies
to
>the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low
>pitch stop) or flight operation.
>
>I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up.
>
>Cameron
Cameron,
My understanding is that the propellor manufacturer determines this caution
range with the engine/prop combination on a test rig. The airframe
therefore plays no part. Randall Henderson has previously posted that the
0-360 A1A with H-C2YK-1BF combination should be placarded with a "no
continuous operation between 2000-2250 RPM" sign. If you check the archives
I think he had an FAA web site for type certificated limitations.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
RV6A Braxton-Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99 |
>
>>
>>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find
>information
>>on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my
>>tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both
>>were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine
>>calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is
>>2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The
>>indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500
>to
>>2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft
>>the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to
>>2200 yellow arc range.
>>What I don't know is:
>> What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the
>>combination of all or some.
>> I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies
>to
>>the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low
>>pitch stop) or flight operation.
>>
>>I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up.
>>
>>Cameron
>
>Cameron,
>
>My understanding is that the propellor manufacturer determines this caution
>range with the engine/prop combination on a test rig. The airframe
>therefore plays no part. Randall Henderson has previously posted that the
>0-360 A1A with H-C2YK-1BF combination should be placarded with a "no
>continuous operation between 2000-2250 RPM" sign. If you check the archives
>I think he had an FAA web site for type certificated limitations.
>
>Cheers,
>Leo Davies
Leo is right about who determines the caution range, although some of
the testing might be in flight. The info is found in the FAA
Propeller Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS), which lists the engines
that a particular prop has been shown to be compatible with, and the
required caution ranges to avoid destructive vibration. The TCDS for
the H-C2YK series is found at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/p-920.pdf
The archive of all prop TCDS is at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcd5prop.htm
Engine TCDS (for engine operating limits, etc) are at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcds5eng.htm, the one for the
O-360 is at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/e-286.pdf
Links to these, and other useful resources, are on my web site at
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: anodize panel instead of paint? |
In a message dated 5/3/99 9:05:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
prober(at)iwaynet.net writes:
<< I have seen this done before and the owner had a real problem with the
different expansion rates of the aluminum subpanel and the plastic overlay.
the overlay would buckle and leave huge gaps as it warped away from the
panel. I hope yours works better. >>
Yikes!! I didn't know it had been a problem with anyone before.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Aileron Stop |
Message text written by Mike Robbins
>Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The
instructions
say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required?<
Mike,
Chapter 13, Final Inspection & Preflight shows that aileron deflection
should be 25-30 degrees up and 15-17 down. I don't have my plans if front
of me but if I remember correctly, the stop determines the up travel and
the down takes care of itself.
Even if you determne that you meet these without a stop it might be a good
idea to put one in. Some people feel a "hard stop" is better than the
"soft stop" of stick travel.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
fitting fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Edmondson" <tazman(at)lakemartin.net> |
----------
From: Joe Edmondson <tazman(at)lakemartin.net>
I have a RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. The empenage kit if 95%
complete. The wing kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but
has not been touched since. Both kits are before the pre-punched era. I did
not order the electric trim or any other options.
I will sell both kits for $5000.00. If you want just the empenage kit it is
$900.00. The wing kit is $4000.00. I am located in east central Alabama in
Dadeville. Dadeville is about eighty miles southeast of Birmingham, 120
miles southwest of Atlanta and about 50 miles northeast of Montgomery.
Both kits were ordered in late 93. If I can answer any more questions
Joe Edmondson
tazman(at)lakemartin.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Christen Inverted Oil System |
<< Hello, Before I place my order I thought I would check to see if anyone has
a Christen Inverted Oil System for sale?
Please reply to sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com
>>
Hi All:
Doug Dodge sells a better, non-certificated setup. I think it's a bit
cheaper, too! Call Acro Specialties at: 1-517-893-0801. Last I talked to
Doug, the kit, less hoses, was $432.
That being said, I'll sell ya my Christen system , so I can get one of
Doug's....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
Von,
During my test period, I tried both wedges and the tabs you're talking
about. I put the 4x2" (approx) on my RV6 as I flew the test period off with
the plane unpainted. I didn't know if rudder trim would change with paint
but, if a wedge were used and there was a trim change, it would be hard to
adjust. With the kind of rudder trim you're talking about, it would be easy
to adjust. I used .020" aluminum. I found, during testing, than one can
get by with a smaller tab if the tab is mounted higher on the rudder (out of
the "slipstream" of the horizontal stab?). I glued by tab on with silicon
before painting. I made a drawing of the size and wrote down the angle the
tab was bent at in case the tab departed as I didn't know how well the
silicon would work. No problems after 460+ hours.
Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc attached to
>usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a cable
>controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication. I
>do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying about
>a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking ones
>are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of
>heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the other
>half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with
>seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Von,
I made a couple of these baffles on my 150 hp RV6, the width of the
cylinder and about 4 inches tall. I made them this tall to allow for
cutting them down to bring temps into range but didn't need to cut them
down. I installed my baffles with two, #6 stainless truss head screws and
nutplates which makes it easy to take them off for summer operation. The
baffles do a good job of raising the temps on #1 & #2 cylinders. In warmer
winter weather you may have to keep your climb out somewhat shallow to keep
CHT's in the green.
Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop
>rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front
>and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps
>on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the
>size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close
>to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others
>on this.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>RV-8 20 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Shielding the "P" leads |
>A question about shielding.
>
>The manual says the P-leads should be shielded at the switch end only. I
>have noticed production aircraft that have the shield grounded at the mag
>(to the case itself). I know not to ground at both ends or else one may
>produce a ground loop, but is there a reason to use one method over another?
. . . I recommend that the ignition switch shields be used to
produce a ground for the ignition switch and that the shield be
grounded to airframe at the magneto or ignition box. Two reasons
for this:
(1) it insures that no ground loop currents flow in the shield
conductor which degrades its performance as a nose attenuator.
(2) should your crankcase jumper become disconnected and/or
you forget to hook it back up after maintenance -AND- you
try to crank the engine, the starter will seek a ground through
ANY wires that might close the path between battery(-) and
crankcase. If this happens to be your p-lead (or any other
shields/grounds) then you get instant smoke and foul smells
from under the instrument panel. Had two mechanics generate
a lot of work for themselves while I owned the airport at
Benton, KS about 10 years ago . . . not a pleasant sight.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Subject: | Re: Beagle Aviation Shirts |
Patty wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> At the Sun-n-Fun RV banquet I was lucky enough to win a shirt from Beagle
> Aviation. I received the shirt over the weekend and it is wonderful. I
> hope my RV turns out as nice as the one embroidered on the shirt. Now that
> I have the shirt I better finish the plane :).
>
> He had many different RVs to choose from, not to mention other airplanes.
> The address is www.beagleav.com. Check it out!
>
> Patty Gillies
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
> RV-6, Finish Kit, South Carolina
I promised myself a custom shirt and hat with my type and registration
marks sewn on only after my RV-6 had flown. So, at Oshkosh 97 I stopped
at Beagle Aviation for my long awaited gift to myself. The hat wasn't a
problem. It just said RV-6 C-GZRV. However, my airplane wasn't painted
yet and I hadn't decided on a paint scheme. I looked through the
examples that were displayed and picked a scheme that I found pleasing.
The owner of the company, "Rob" and I sorted through the threads that he
had available and the shirt was completed. The scheme is actually Rob's
own RV-6 but different colors than I chose. When it came time to paint
my RV in 1998 I just matched the little picture on the shirt that I have
so proudly worn ever since. It was a case of spending $3000 to save from
having to buy another $30 shirt. I stop buy and talk to Rob at every
show and we still laugh about that. I also buy a new shirt every year:)
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splice Trick |
>Anyone that has ever taken a "butt splice" apart that
>has been exposed to the weather will remember the GREEN WIRE. RIGHT?
>
>Any way for the trick, dig out your old Hot Glue Gun, a
>Glass of Water, and Squirt a 1/6" +or- string into the water.
>
>The next time you want to make a water tight "butt splice",
>do the but splice as normal but put a 2" long piece of Heat
>Shrink Tube on the wire first. Then cut a 2" long piece of the
>glue (Dry not with water) slide the tube over the but
>splice , insert the glue string, and heat.
>
>Not only do you have a water tight "butt splice" but
>you also have a splice that is less likely to pull apart.
>
>
>Heat Shrink can be had at any Radio Shack.
This is a pretty fair appoximation of a series of double-wall
heat-shrinks offered by most manufacturers of such products.
We stock 1/2" double walled product with a melting sealant for
the inner wall. Complete encapsulation of the joint from a
"string" of hot glue might be a bit shakey if the heatshrink
is a thinner variety that puts to little force on the shrink
or tends to split if you have to heat it too strongly or for
too long. This technique will work best with the heavier/
stiffer heatshrinks . . .
I'll look into getting a variety of double-wall heatshrinks
and offer them from our website catalog.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Christen Inverted Oil System |
In a message dated 5/3/99 3:24:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com writes:
<< Before I place my order I thought I would check to see if anyone has
a Christen Inverted Oil System for sale? >>
Have you looked into the Acro Specialties inverted oil system? How does it
compare with the Christen?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
In a message dated 5/3/99 19:32:27, moejoe3(at)home.com writes:
< rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get
tired
> may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't have
a
> rudder trim in your RV? >>
This is what I do. Works for me.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Aileron Stop |
> Message text written by Mike Robbins
> >Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The
> instructions
> say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required?<
>
> Mike,
> Chapter 13, Final Inspection & Preflight shows that aileron deflection
> should be 25-30 degrees up and 15-17 down. I don't have my plans if front
> of me but if I remember correctly, the stop determines the up travel and
> the down takes care of itself.
>
> Even if you determne that you meet these without a stop it might be a good
> idea to put one in. Some people feel a "hard stop" is better than the
> "soft stop" of stick travel.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> fitting fuselage skins
Van specifies an aileron stop on each wing. Both stops are to stop the up
travel of each respective aileron. You need to install the stop on the outside
of each inner aileron hinge bracket. You determine the location by using a
protractor level set on the aileron and raising the aileron to the correct
deflection. The stop will hit the inner aileron bracket. No down stop is needed
since the ailerons are connected with push pull tubes and the up stop on one
will determine how far the other aileron can travel downwards.
BTW in Canada these stops are required. I am not sure about the States, but
I'd bet on it as Canada has a record of following the States regulations.
DGM RV-6 Kinda on hold as I have a wedding to pay for (and maybe another one
too) this summer. Teaches me to have seven kids :-)
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
Subject: | Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel? |
Christopher Heitman wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> >You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an
> >internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve.
>
> I don't believe that statement is true. All Facet solid-state pumps have a
> foot valve which functions as a check valve. Fuel cannot back flow on any
> model. The foot valve only opens when the plunger draws a vacuum (relative
> to inlet pressure) on the foot valve. The only difference between part
> numbers is in details like pressure range (regulated by an internal spring),
> wire configuration and port sizes (there is a version with male 6AN ports).
> I don't have my Facet catalog handy, so I can't tell you the difference
> between the 108 and 109 until I dig it out. If you want to see a cross
> section of one of these pumps, check out their web site:
> http://www.facet-purolator.com/electri.htm
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
While I don't know why the factory engineers would make a statement
about their product which isn't true, I recommend anyone thinking of
using Facet pumps in parallel, as I am doing, thoroughly investigate
before using 40108 from Vans for this application. My 40109 Facets work
well in parallel.
Will Cretsinger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin and Karla Ross" <kevin(at)hcnews.com> |
Are you nuts!!??
It's a very old kit without many of the updates and I bet the plans are
archaic!
Let me see $900 plus $4000 comes to $4900 last time I checked.
In this kitplane business which you apparently know little about, you get
nothing for your time and labor unless the entire machine is complete and
flying.
Info you, that wing kit "may" be worth $3000 and you might as well just
throw in the tail kit assuming the workmanship is any good. There are too
many similar kits available of later vintage.
________________________________________________________________________________
Bob; Did you notice that the back two cylinders CHT temps went down some
when you blocked the two front ones? As I understand it, once all four
cyls are running at similar temps, you shouldn't have to remove the front
shield for summer, as that would make the spread between all the cyls
uneven again, wouldn't it?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Von,
> I made a couple of these baffles on my 150 hp RV6, the width of the
>cylinder and about 4 inches tall. I made them this tall to allow for
>cutting them down to bring temps into range but didn't need to cut
>them
>down. I installed my baffles with two, #6 stainless truss head screws
>and
>nutplates which makes it easy to take them off for summer operation.
>The
>baffles do a good job of raising the temps on #1 & #2 cylinders. In
>warmer
>winter weather you may have to keep your climb out somewhat shallow to
>keep
>CHT's in the green.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>>I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to
>pop
>>rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in
>front
>>and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the
>temps
>>on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with
>the
>>size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as
>close
>>to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of
>others
>>on this.
>>Von Alexander
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>>RV-8 20 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset |
Excellent advice, Bob. I thought about using thin double-sided tape to
hold on the tab, starting with a very small one and working up in size
til I get the results I need. Using a blow dryer you can remove the tabs
and put a different one on. Then I can paint it and permanently attach
it.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>Von,
>
> During my test period, I tried both wedges and the tabs you're
>talking
>about. I put the 4x2" (approx) on my RV6 as I flew the test period
>off with
>the plane unpainted. I didn't know if rudder trim would change with
>paint
>but, if a wedge were used and there was a trim change, it would be
>hard to
>adjust. With the kind of rudder trim you're talking about, it would
>be easy
>to adjust. I used .020" aluminum. I found, during testing, than one
>can
>get by with a smaller tab if the tab is mounted higher on the rudder
>(out of
>the "slipstream" of the horizontal stab?). I glued by tab on with
>silicon
>before painting. I made a drawing of the size and wrote down the
>angle the
>tab was bent at in case the tab departed as I didn't know how well the
>silicon would work. No problems after 460+ hours.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>>Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc
>attached to
>>usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a
>cable
>>controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication.
>I
>>do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying
>about
>>a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking
>ones
>>are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of
>>heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the
>other
>>half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with
>>seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight.
>>Von Alexander
>>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
Looking for a used pneumatic cleco gun.
Any sellers??? Zap me offline!!!
Thanks
Ralph Capen
RV6A Emp Dallas
N822AR reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Couldn't agree more!
I bought into my RV-8 with a completed tail-kit, 40% done wing kit,
including excellent workmanship, electric trims, 200 3/32 clecos, and a
Goertz heated pitot tube. All for $3000, and the guy even helped me move it.
Sylvain
RV-8 #47, Fuselage on order.
Bellevue, WA
>
> Are you nuts!!??
>
> It's a very old kit without many of the updates and I bet the plans are
> archaic!
>
> Let me see $900 plus $4000 comes to $4900 last time I checked.
>
> In this kitplane business which you apparently know little about, you get
> nothing for your time and labor unless the entire machine is complete and
> flying.
>
> Info you, that wing kit "may" be worth $3000 and you might as well just
> throw in the tail kit assuming the workmanship is any good. There are too
> many similar kits available of later vintage.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net |
by mailhost.ind.ameritech.net (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124)
with SMTP id" <19990504153315.BBBQ17677@oemcomputer>
Phil Sisson wrote:
>
>
> I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend.
> It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it.
It
> will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with
a
> 2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West
> area..
>
> Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one
> who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it
is
> free..
>
Phil,
I have a nice RV6 jig similar to yours stored in my barn. 4 RV's have
been built on it. If you have more takers than jigs have them E-mail me.
I'm located west of Indianapolis, In. and the price is right. (free)
Gary Reynolds RV6A, wiring-plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99 |
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com <RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99
>
>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find
information
>on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my
>tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both
>were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine
>calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is
>2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The
>indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500
to
>2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the
aircraft
>the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000
to
>2200 yellow arc range.
>What I don't know is:
> What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the
>combination of all or some.
> I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies
to
>the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low
>pitch stop) or flight operation.
>
>I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up.
>
>Cameron
>
I obtained a data sheet at the Hartzell booth at Sun&Fun. It is entitled
Hartzell Kit Plane Application, Aircraft Make: Vans Aircraft Inc, RV4, RV6,
RV8. Prior archives postings notwithstanding, this sheet calls out
restricted bands ONLY for IO-360A1A and IO-360B engines. I suggest you call
Hartzell at 937 778 4200 and obtain the data sheet for yourself.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Slot |
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 7:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Slot
>
>
>Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the
rudder
>cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension..
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
Mine are 1 1/8 long. I drilled two holes 3/8 dia with 1 1/8 edge-to-edge
and cut out in-between on connecting tangent lines. I also fashioned two
right-angle tabs riveted to the aft side of F611 to hold Adel clamps at the
optimum angle to captivate the rudder cable tubing guides.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Subject: | Re: Folding bicycles |
----------
> From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Folding bicycles
> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:57 AM
>
>
> If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two
Dahon
> folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a
bit
> goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are
> available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220.
>
Can you get these in a six with tip up canopy? The baggage compartment in
a tip up is a little less accessible than in a slider. I would really like
to get a couple of these.
Scott Sawby N 341SS
Sandpoint, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Time to Build? |
I am just finishing the empennage for the 8A and would like to be able to
compare notes on time in building. I know that time to build will vary
greatly but I would assume that percentage of time to build each sub-section
would be pretty consistent?
For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage, wings,
and fuselage?
Thanks!
Len in N.C.
Finishing empennage on 8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: N.C. RV Builders Group |
We have three builders in the Greensboro/Winston-Salem area that are trying
to meet on a regular basis. One starting fuselage on 6 and two beginning
wings on 8.
Anyone in the area is welcome to come. Our next meeting is May 15 not too
far from the Greensboro Airport. You can contact me offline for directions
or info.
Lenleg(at)aol.com or call 336-434-2124
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>I had heard this from Steve Barnard on his IO-360 and put mine (O-360) in at
>the very start. They work great to balance the temp delta. Mine cover the
>entire finned head (not the barrel) height on the front two jugs.
I had recently done this for my PA-16 (it was done on one side and not the
other). It did improve things. I did put a curved baffle covering part of
fins on the cylinder barrel as well as the head. The goal is to get more
consistent airflow around the cylinder barrel in order to prevent big
temperature differentials around the circumfrence of the barrel. Why
didn't you do this for your baffling? (I am not trying to say you are
wrong or to pick a fight. I just want to find out if you know something I
don't so I have more data to work from.)
BTW, friday I was over at LVK with the CJ-6 and saw an RV-6 pushed out of
one of the NE hangars with a bunch of people hanging out (it must have been
around 7PM). Was that you and your airplane?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
>what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more
>capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on
>air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other
>bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as
>well.
>
>Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to
>"unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such
>systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies.
>
>He showed me his 2 meter handheld which was modified to transmit within the
>legal bandwidth requirements on all the frequencies it could recieve on (the
>mod was done at a ham show). He doesn't fly but he is a boater so now he
>can leave his marine only transceiver at home and still have all his marine
>capabilities plus all the capabilities available to legal ham radio
>operators.
Legality of this aside, there are technical reasons why this won't work for
aviation. Boats and 2M amateur radio typically use narrow-band frequency
modulation (NBFM). Aviation used amplitude modulation (AM or "ancient
mode" to us hams). An amateur radio 2M handheld may be modified to
transmit in the aviation band but its signal will probably not be
intelligible (I know, someone is going to chime in with a comment about
slope detection of FM with an AM receiver but that doesn't count). This is
further confused by the fact that many of the current crop of amateur radio
hand-held radios tune the "air band" (108-137 MHz) and have AM detectors.
Rest assured that they do NOT have AM transmitters.
So, while a 2M handheld might be useful as a secondary receiver (I carry my
Icom IC-T8 just for that reason) it will never be useful as a transmitter
no matter what I do to it.
>You can get a novice ham license relatively easily these days which will
>give you a legal ham call sign. If you are with you plane in the US you can
>use the TX function.
Actually, you really want to get a Technician class license. This gives
you all amateur radio privileges on 50 MHz and above. This is also the
only class of license that does not require you to learn the Morse code.
>Checkout Icom and Yaesu's multiband transceivers. You may find them very
>appealing in both cost and functionality as compared to aircraft only comm
>units. Especially if all you really want is a good scanner/emergency
>device.
I agree with you 100% on this one. ICOM, Yaesu, Alinco, Standard, Kenwood,
and others have some really slick little hand-held radios. We found the
little Alinco credit-card radios (literally the size of a credit card and
only slightly thicker) to be great for use at Oshkosh last year. They tune
the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use them to
communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the Fly Market or
to coordinate getting back together for lunch.
73 de WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary kozinski" <Kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
Subject: | VHF Airband Tranceiver |
Regarding modifying ham type transceiver for use in marine and airband. The manufacturers
are not pulling the wool over our eyes guys and screwing us.
The problem not discussed is that airbands radios are AM (Amplitude Modulated)
and all other ham/marine/public service bands are FM (Frequency Modulated). You
could receive AM signals on an FM receiver but the audio would be fuzzy or
unreadable. Likely, if your transmit an AM signal and try to listen to it on
and FM received, the receptioin would also be fuzzy to unreadable.
Therefore, modifying a ham type transciever won't work properly in the aircraft
bands. It's not worth relying on in a emergency situation.
The ham and aircraft radio might look the same with minor differences inside with
a big price difference on the outside. The price difference reflects the lower
volume of sales in the aircraft market. There might be some high end transceivers
that operate both FM and AM that could be considered.
Gary K1GK RV-6, 20038, N38GK reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
listers,
i understand that you would want to try to minimize the EGT variation
between cylinders for better leaning and fuel economy. would it also make a
difference in the "smoothness" of the engine running?
as for CHT, is it necessary to minimize that variation (or "spread") too?
let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear
cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within
limits, isn't that ok? why does the spread matter? (i suspect that any CHT
spread is going to be highly correlated with an EGT spread. is that true?)
ok, so let's assume CHT spread does matter...now let's say you partially
block off the front cylinders. i don't know what will happen, so maybe
someone with real world experience will tell us, but if the CHT for all
cylinders is now Y, then all we really did was make the cooling airflow less
efficient, thereby raising the CHT of the front cylinders. however, if the
CHT of the rear cylinders is lowered, while the front CHT's increase, so now
all cylinders read the average of X and Y. that would indicate to me that we
made a genuine improvement in the baffling. so which is it?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
inventorying finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Oil Temps. |
> I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring
around
> the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff". When I
calculate
> the contact area of the spring I obtain a fractional area of less than 1%
of
> the exhaust pipe useful radiating area. Similarly when I calculate the
> radiating area of the spring I get only a few percent at most
augmentation,
> which would not account for the fantastic claims.
The contact area between the spring and the exhaust pipe is so small that
the conductive heat exchange between the two would be negligible. I
suspect that the radiative heat exchange is the explanation. "Emissivity
equals absorptivity" This means that if a substance is a good emitter at a
particular wave length, it is also a good absorber at that wave length.
The exhaust pipe and the spring are essentially the same material (steel).
The exhaust pipe is radiating a lot of heat at some wavelengths in the
infrared portion of the spectrum and the coil spring is efficient at
absorbing this energy at these wavelengths. The coil spring would heat up
in there even if there was no contact between it and the exhaust pipe.
Scott Sawby N341SS
Sandpoint, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Rudder Cable Slot |
>Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the
>rudder
>cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension..
>
>Kyle Boatright
I think I drilled a hole to get the cable assy trhought, then took a
round rod & very lightly bent one surface out & the other in. Wasn't very
ppreaty but I covered it with Georges lettle covers.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Time to Build? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Time to Build?
>
?
>
>For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage,
wings,
>and fuselage?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Len in N.C.
Len, I am building a 6A and have completed my tail, wings, and have the
feselage in the jig. 1230 hrs. to date. This includes all fiberglass tips
and landing lights.
I consider myself to be an "average" builder as far as time goes.
Tail kit -250 hrs.
Wings- 850 hrs.
Fuselage (bulkheads, seat ribs and baggage ribs)- 130 hrs.
Hope this helps
Tommy
Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Ok Gary, I may know of a guy who needs one. They can be cut in two bu making a
cut right behind 606. I think, I would have too go look, but it is right behind
the middle legs. I hauled
mine from Seattle and splice it back together. just remember to add the saw kurf,
about an 1/8 inch. With 3 inch deck screws it is solid as before.
Anyway I'll let them all know about it...
Phil out of the jig this weekend...
"greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net by mailhost.ind.ameritech.net (InterMail
v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP id" wrote:
>
> Phil Sisson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend.
> > It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it.
It
> > will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with
a
> > 2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West
> > area..
> >
> > Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one
> > who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it
is
> > free..
> >
> Phil,
> I have a nice RV6 jig similar to yours stored in my barn. 4 RV's have
> been built on it. If you have more takers than jigs have them E-mail me.
> I'm located west of Indianapolis, In. and the price is right. (free)
> Gary Reynolds RV6A, wiring-plumbing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 rudder trim |
>I thought about using thin double-sided tape to hold on the tab, starting
with >a very small one and working up in size til I get the results I need.
You may think about making a big one and trimming it down to the size you
need. That way you may only have to make one. Mine is about 1 1/2" by 6",
less than a 1/4" thick at the trailing edge and is mounted with the TOP of
the wedge at the midpoint of the trailing edge of the rudder; out of the
interfering wake of the horizontal. I started with a wood wedge held on with
200 mph tape; looked UGLY, worked well without much fuss. Successively
trimmed it (easily filed down) both in length and thickness. After I found
the right size, the real one was taped on for the final test and then
riveted in place with countersunk pull rivets. Less obtrusive than the
sticking-out metal tab, but once it's on, it's on; changes would be more
labor intensive. Will the trim change with paint? I wouldn't think so, but
others may know for sure.
I've seen the wedge made of wood (sealed with spar varnish and painted),
Plexiglass, Lexan and aluminum (both solid and sheet bent to shape). There
are probably other things you could use. Make sure it is able to take paint;
Nylon is not a good choice for that reason. Of course, since it is about as
far aft as something could go, the lighter the better.
Is going without an ugly tab and flying a little out of plum OK? I suppose.
I find myself subconsiously pushing on the offending rudder, just because it
'feels' better in my feeble little brain to fly in trim. I wind up with a
sore leg at the end of a trip. That's just me.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying hands and feet off.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Riggles <RANDY.RIGGLES(at)ROCHE.COM> |
RV'ers
Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be
mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm
wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that would
be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the
Cockpit, maybe making it simpler.
Randy Riggles
e-mail Rkr0101(at)aol.com
RV8 in Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>
>listers,
>
>i understand that you would want to try to minimize the EGT variation
>between cylinders for better leaning and fuel economy. would it also make a
>difference in the "smoothness" of the engine running?
There is not a lot of correlation between the CHT and EGT, i.e. changing
the CHT by improving baffling or airflow doesn't have a significant effect
on EGT because EGT is primarily controled by mixture. Therefore, there
should be no effect on smoothness. (Yes, I know that the EGT is not the
same as combustion temperature because of heat transfer to the cylinder
walls, head, valves, and upstream exhaust pipe but the delta-T is so great
that we can pretty much ignore this.)
>as for CHT, is it necessary to minimize that variation (or "spread") too?
>let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear
>cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within
>limits, isn't that ok? why does the spread matter? (i suspect that any CHT
>spread is going to be highly correlated with an EGT spread. is that true?)
CHT will vary with EGT because you are transfering more heat to the
cylinder, piston, and head when you increase the EGT so you will see an
increase in CHT with an increase in EGT _at_the_same_power_setting_. Just
decreasing RPM (constant speed prop) will cause the EGT to decrease and the
CHT to increase (slightly).
>ok, so let's assume CHT spread does matter...now let's say you partially
>block off the front cylinders. i don't know what will happen, so maybe
>someone with real world experience will tell us, but if the CHT for all
>cylinders is now Y, then all we really did was make the cooling airflow less
>efficient, thereby raising the CHT of the front cylinders. however, if the
>CHT of the rear cylinders is lowered, while the front CHT's increase, so now
>all cylinders read the average of X and Y. that would indicate to me that we
>made a genuine improvement in the baffling. so which is it?
That is my question too. The problem is that our CHT guages measure CHT
only at one point on the cylinder. We don't get to see the temperature
distribution across the whole cylinder. If you think about it, the base of
the cylinder is at the temperature of the case (very close to oil
temperature) which is stone cold when compared to the cylinder head itself.
Even on the cylinder head the temperature varies radically. If you have a
CHT thermocouple that goes on your spark plug (gasket type thermocouple) it
will probably read 20F-30F higher than the well-type thermocouple.
So the goal is to try to reduce temperature variations across the cylinder
assembly and where we do have temperature variations to make them as smooth
and continuous as possible in order to reduce thermally induced stresses in
the materials. Given the different coefficients of expansion for the
various pieces, e.g. aluminum heads and pistons expand more with delta-T
than does the steel barrel, we want the whole assembly to operate at the
design temperature
in order to have the design clearances. As I recall, Lycoming considers a
cylinder head temperature of 350F - 375F to be just about optimum. So, if
we can get the back cylinder down from 400F to 360F and get the front
cylinders up from 320F to 360F we should see better wear characteristics
and longevity from the top end. We should also strive to have a smooth
temperature differential across the cylinder barrel itself.
That is how I understand it. Your milage may vary.
The big question is, "does it really make a difference?" Heck if I know.
I just rebuilt (a year ago now) the O-320-D2J in my RV-4 after it went
almost 2600 hours, the first 2000 hours of which were in a C-172 at a
flight school and the last 600 hours were in the RV-4 with stock baffling.
The engine went all the way to 2600 hours with only normal maintenance (no
repairs, no top overhauls). When I tore it down it was clear that the
engine could have run for probably a couple hundred more hours if I had
left it alone.
So maybe we are just making a mountain out of a molehill.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>i originally started the thread and here's what i've found to this point.
>
>what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more
>capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on
>air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other
>bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as
>well.
>
>Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to
>"unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such
>systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies.
>
>He showed me his 2 meter handheld which was modified to transmit within the
>legal bandwidth requirements on all the frequencies it could recieve on (the
>mod was done at a ham show). He doesn't fly but he is a boater so now he
>can leave his marine only transceiver at home and still have all his marine
>capabilities plus all the capabilities available to legal ham radio
>operators.
>
>
It is often fairly easy to modify portable ham transeivers to be able to
transmit over most of their receive range. Almost always the air band is
the exception. The reason for this is probably mostly because the air
band is AM and nothing else on the radio is. A sorta AM detector is
simpler than including an AM transmitter in a small radio with little or
no need for it.
I have a very small radio (Yaesu VX-1R) that is able to transmit at low
power on the aircraft band. I intend to use this radio exclusively in my
6 to listen to the ball game (AM broadcast band, listen to music (FM
broadcast band), listen to other sporting events and news (TV band),
chat with other hams (VHF and UHF ham bands), to communicate with local
law enforcement agencies while using my airplane for searches (VHF public
service band and yes I have done this before, this is the boonies), and
in emergencies to monitor atc and possibly to talk with them with back up
battery power built in.
I think that is a lot for a tiny $300 transeiver. The transmit mod
involves surface mount devices and I am not willing to give lessons in
how to do it. If you choose to go this, possibly illegal, route please
get a local ham to help you.
Larry Pardue N5LP
Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Folding bicycles |
From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>>
>>
>> If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two
>Dahon
>> folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a
>bit
>> goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are
>> available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220.
>>
>Can you get these in a six with tip up canopy? The baggage compartment in
>a tip up is a little less accessible than in a slider. I would really like
>to get a couple of these.
>
Two Brompton's are lost in an RV-6 luggage compartment and easy to get in
a tip-up. Also IMHO they are much better bicycles. Of course they are
also more expensive.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC" <cabodijmfc(at)datasys.com.ar> |
Subject: | Tool to sense torque |
I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I
cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure
what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets
for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea?
Pablo
ARGENTINA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
Another thought on this subject, Icom makes a mobile radio known as the
IC-706. This is primarily an HF rig (3-30 MHz) but also has 2M VHF
operation. Its receiver tunes from about 100 KHz to 200 MHz. As such it
can be used to listen to NDBs, AM broadcast, aeronautical HF (planning an
ocean crossing?), shortwave broadcast, FM broadcast, the standard VHF nav
(108-118 MHz), and comm (118-137 MHz) frequencies. This radio may be
"convinced" to transmit on almost all its receive frequencies including the
VHF comm frequencies. Many pilots who make a living out of ferrying
airplanes across oceans make use of rigs like this for their HF capability.
What makes this radio even more interesting is that it supports all
transmission modes including AM (USB, LSB, AM, and NBFM). Now it may only
put out a couple of watts on the VHF comm frequencies but that may be
sufficient to establish communications in a pinch.
The whole radio is about the size of a KX-155 and the "guts" may be
detached from the front panel and mounted elsewhere (like under the floor
or back in the baggage compartment). This may be just the right "second"
radio in your RV especially if you are a ham.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Time to Build? |
> >For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage,
> wings,
> >and fuselage?
> Tail kit -250 hrs.
> Wings- 850 hrs.
> Fuselage (bulkheads, seat ribs and baggage ribs)- 130 hrs.
As I've found them, I've recorded various people's build times...
they're available at <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/btime.htm>. If
other people post their times here, I'll add them to the page.
The first column of times on my page comes from Sam Buchanan -- I still
find them incredible.
My own build times are quite close to Tommy's above... Emp 250 (complete
except for tips), Wings 758 (complete except for tips), Fuselage 261
(bulkheads complete, about half-way through drilling skins to skeleton).
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SAABPILOT(at)aol.com |
If you know how could you please take me off this list! I
have been trying and can't seem to get out of this .
thanks saabpilot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC wrote:
> I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I
> cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure
> what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets
> for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea?
That's 20-25 inch-pounds. Torque is force (aka weight) times distance.
You can buy inch-pound torque wrenches from tool suppliers like Avery,
but they're
expensive (and may take a while to get to Argentina).
Instead, you can make your own. 24 inch-pounds = 3 pounds * 8 inches, so
make a mark
on your socket wrench handle 8 inches from the centre of the hex head of
the nut/bolt. Buy a small fish scale, (the spring weighing type, not the
kind off the side of the fish!). Calibrate this by hanging 3 pounds of
something (water, butter, whatever) off it, and mark where the pointer
indicates. Hook the scale onto your wrench at the position you marked (I
wrapped masking tape round the wrench either side of the mark to stop it
slipping). Pull at right-angles to the wrench until the scale pointer
gets to your calibrated mark... Voila! 24 inch-pounds.
If your socket handle isn't 8 inches long then you could use 4.5 pounds
* 5 inches or any other combination of weight and distance that
multiplies to 20-25.
The scale's spring will probably weaken over time, especially if the
scale is cheap. Therefore, recalibrate it periodically.
Incidentally, 20-25 inch-pounds is surprisingly little. Don't tighten
down the nuts with a spanner.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Check Six! to visit the Kansas City RV-Ators |
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers!
Check Six! will be visiting the Kansas City RV-Ators fly-in. We look forward
to seeing everyone there!!
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
<< I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I
cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure
what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets
for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea? >>
Harbor freight carries a baby torque wrench for ~$25. Check the yeller pages
for contact info.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Von,
I didn't notice that the temps on the rear cylinders dropped with the
addition of baffles in front of cylinders 1 & 2. I have a GEM Insight
monitor that uses light bars, with each bar representing 25 degrees on the
CHT's so don't have precise temp readouts. Under 20 degrees F., cylinder
#1 was very cool, on the neighborhood of 125-150 degrees. #2 cylinder was
slightly warmer. #3 cylinder has always been the hottest running cylinder.
I found that, if I left the front baffles on in warm weather, that all of
the cylinders would rise in temp. Long climb outs, multiple touch & gos,
etc would cause CHT's to rise to uncomfortable levels. At reduced throttle
in warmer weather, cylinders 1 & 2 still run a bit cooler than 3 & 4 but
there isn't as much difference between the front and rear cylinders as there
is in the winter without baffles installed. At full throttle at 7,500 and
above, leaned for best power, the CHT's are very even as are the EGT's. At
reduced throttle settings, the EGT's on carbed engines are very uneven.
Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Bob; Did you notice that the back two cylinders CHT temps went down some
>when you blocked the two front ones? As I understand it, once all four
>cyls are running at similar temps, you shouldn't have to remove the front
>shield for summer, as that would make the spread between all the cyls
>uneven again, wouldn't it?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) |
Use
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire
(switch the "l" and "d")
Very nice Bob!!
>>
>>I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of
>>shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies
>>in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to
>>click on . . .
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Crank question from Shelby Smith re: MN RV Forum |
Shelby,
Regarding your question: Did the Yellow tagged crank come from Nelson
grinding in New Bedford, Mass?
I called Dick Waters and he said the crank came from Power Aviation in
Orlando. He knew about the problem with the Nelson cranks, but got a heads
up early on and luckily was able to avoided them.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Randy Riggles wrote:
> RV'ers
>
> Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be
> mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm
> wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that would
> be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the
> Cockpit, maybe making it simpler.
>
Randy, you need to get in touch with John Marshall who lives just south of
Indianapolis. He is just finishing an RV-8 with the guages you describe. Sorry,
I don't have John's address or phone number handy.
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/4/99 11:01:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com writes:
<< let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear
cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within
limits, isn't that ok? >>
Louis
I am no expert, but it would seem to me that if you could maintain the
operating CHT
for all cylinder heads within a narrow band, that this would have at least
"some" effect on how your cylinders wear over time. Maybe there is a
possibility that within
certain operating limits, the cylinder wear would tend to be more even also.
I would think that, especially on an engine with only four cylinders, that
this could cause the
engine to run smoother until such time as an overhaul is required. Does
anybody have any experience with certain cylinders, possibly the ones that
were running hottest, needing service earlier in the life of the engine??? do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Instrument spacing |
Guys,
While waiting on my finish kit I'd like to be making some progress so
thought it would be a good time to start cutting holes in my panel. I have
a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center
spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search
of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure
panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and
if so any problems? Note that I dont have the instruments in hand - cant
afford them yet, but RMI has told me that interference wont be an issue.
I'd just like some confirmation before cutting metal.
Mike Wills
RV-4 waiting for finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar
(hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there
a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Randy,
I don't, but when we were at S-N-F we saw the new gagues from Van's on the
RV-8A. They looked great and are suppose to be about $50 for the pair with
the senders. You may want to consider them and keep your wing clean.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
*******************
>From: Randy Riggles <RANDY.RIGGLES(at)ROCHE.COM>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Gage
>Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 13:07:28 -0500
>
>
> RV'ers
>
> Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be
> mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm
> wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that
>would
> be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the
> Cockpit, maybe making it simpler.
>
> Randy Riggles
> e-mail Rkr0101(at)aol.com
> RV8 in Indianapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you
template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level
to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Date: Tuesday, 04 May 1999 08:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument spacing
>
>Guys,
> While waiting on my finish kit I'd like to be making some progress so
>thought it would be a good time to start cutting holes in my panel. I have
>a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center
>spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search
>of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure
>panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and
>if so any problems? Note that I dont have the instruments in hand - cant
>afford them yet, but RMI has told me that interference wont be an issue.
>I'd just like some confirmation before cutting metal.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 waiting for finish kit
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Team Rocket attains OEM Pricing |
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers!
In a continued effort to provide quality parts at the best prices available,
Team Rocket has acquired OEM pricing from the following companies:
Hartzell Propellers (props, governors, spinners)
Sensenich Propellers (props)
Lycoming Engines
Barry Controls (isolators)
Aero Instrument Comp. (pitot tubes)
Unlimited Quality Products (insulation, glue)
As we continue to bring on board more companies that are supporting the Team
Rocket effort, we will keep you all informed.
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
>I have
>a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center
>spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search
>of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure
>panel rigidity and avoid interference.
I set up my panel on a CAD program and then spaced my instruments evenly.
The nice thing about this approach is that you can "play" with the layout
until you are happy and not have to make a new panel when you make a mistake.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV4 Kit for sale |
I have an RV4 kit, partially built for sale. Tail section is built, wings are
built, fuselage is still in the jig ready to be skinned. Finish kit has not
been ordered. Workmanship is good, and asking price is $11,500. Please call
561-748-2429. Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Registration stuff |
G'day RVers,
I just received the "Aircraft (Kit) Bill of Sale" from Van's so that I may
continue with the registration of my reserved "N" number. I noticed that at
the top, it asks for the sale price. So, what do I put here? The total cost
of all four subkits? Also, is this dollar figure used by the various state
jackbooted-gestapo taxation organizations to assess a tax? If so, do you
think they'd believe I bought the kit for $1.95? OK, maybe not.
Your sage advice is appreciated.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
"P" leads, and cables.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net> |
Elford
John wrote ---
>I found a core O-320 out of an airboat. It is a wide deck O-320-E2H. I
plan on tearing it down and massaging the internals myself if I buy it.
The 150 hp rating is a moot point as I will be cranking the compression
up during overhaul. The only thing that really bothers me is the fixed
pitch only design. I basically have two questions for all in
cyber-land:
1 - Is an airboat engine a good choice to install in an airplane? After
years of operation in close proximity to water and humidity will it be
irrepairably damaged in any way?
2 - What parts must be exchanged to make it C/S prop compatible?
Obviously the crank will need to go, but what about accessory case, etc?
Any thoughts good and bad would be much appreciated.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Flaps/Ailerons
Be *real* careful out there! I've heard lots of stories of unairworthy parts
being bought and put into airboats from sources I consider reliable, and then
to put those in an airplane...
One man I knew told me of having bought two engines that turned out to be
ex-airboat. He survived his forced landings, but the other engine caused a
fatality. Don't recall the details, but it was first person.
Ed Wischmeyer
________________________________________________________________________________
Mooney makes a gauge that fits on an inspection plate on the upper fuel tank
that is visible from the cockpit.
Good Luck
Bob
Rv6a & Mooney
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
Pablo, Sears sells a "click-type" torque wrench here in the states for about
$50 US that goes down to 25 inch-lbs, however, you can back it off another 5
in-lbs to 20. I'm looking at mine as I write this and it has what I guess is
the model number, 5980311748, stamped on the barrel. I have been using it on
my 8 empennage. Good luck, Andy Johnson, Boca Raton, Florida, building flaps
and ailerons (first).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rv4flyer" <rv4mike(at)access1.net> |
Subject: | RV4 Electric flap retrofit |
Anyone out there do a manual to electric flap conversion on a RV4. What is
all involved as far as the installation? I know the weldment need to be
altered. How does the electric flap drive opperate? Any Info?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
I did the same thing in white posterboard with posterboard stick-ons. Cheap
and easy!
Love my panel,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST final details in engine and electrics
>
>I set up my panel on a CAD program and then spaced my instruments evenly.
>The nice thing about this approach is that you can "play" with the layout
>until you are happy and not have to make a new panel when you make a
mistake.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
In a message dated 5/4/99 6:09:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< I have
a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center
spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search
of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure
panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and
if so any problems? >>
Mine are on 3.550" centers with the stock .0625" thick panel and this is
pretty tight IMO.
I would think that 3.375" would be "line to line" with some instrument cases.
Not real good design practice. Since the hole should be a little greater in
diameter than the gauge (approximately 3.150"), this would only leave .225"
tangent to tangent.
Those of you with AutoCAD release 14 can have the file on my 6A slider for
the asking.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/4/99 10:55:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, brian(at)lloyd.com
writes:
<< BTW, friday I was over at LVK with the CJ-6 and saw an RV-6 pushed out of
one of the NE hangars with a bunch of people hanging out (it must have been
around 7PM). Was that you and your airplane? >>
No. Mine looks better and has the little wheel up front where physics wants
it.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
testing 123
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
<< << I have
a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center
spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search
of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure
panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and
if so any problems? >> >>
3.375" is the MINIMUM spacing, and is often used with 0.090 aluminum, as
opposed to the 0.060 used in RV panels (RV-6's, anyway, can't speak for the
others). I put my instruments on 3 5/8" centers, and still thought there
was an awful lot of flex.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
Canopy Installation, Wiring Runs, fiberglass, interior fabric selection, etc,
etc, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | COPANDENGR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
I am an advanced class amateur radio operator building an RV-6. For the
information of those regarding the modified VHF trancievers used by hams, it
must be pointed out that they are FM only radios. Also you need at least a "
No Code Technician " license to legally use one. A novice ticket does not
have 2 meter priveledges. Modifying the radio to go "out of band" will also
void the warranty. J.R. Coleman N5XYY.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
Total thinkness of the material plus add 1.5 times the rivet diameter should
give you the approximate rivet length.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Empennage
Bonnyville, AB Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
> riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar
> (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there
> a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in
> arkansas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit |
I ordered the complete kit which included a new actuator lever. Essentially you
locate the flap motor assembly in the center bay underneath the pilots seat.
Everything is included in the kit except the circuit breaker. The instructions
are straight forward and easy to follow. You will need some help with dimpling
the bottom skin of the aircraft in order to accept flush rivets that attach one
of the motor/arm assembly.
Not a big job. Can be done in one weekend.
rv4flyer wrote:
>
> Anyone out there do a manual to electric flap conversion on a RV4. What is
> all involved as far as the installation? I know the weldment need to be
> altered. How does the electric flap drive opperate? Any Info?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit |
Mike:
It is very simple if you buy the kit. The modification to the weldment is the
difficult part.. The installation envolves mounting the motor drive, connecting
it to two parellel flat pieces of .125 that act as an arm that pushes the
weldment from under the seat webs. So... instead of using the lever upstairs
you are activating a motor down below. It installed in about 3 hours during
building. Probably a day's work if you have to take out the seats, etc.
If you have a fax machine I will fax you the instructions and drawings that come
with the kit.
Dave Aronson, Finish kit, RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | COPANDENGR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Strobe power supplies |
Regarding the strobe lights used on school buses, Wheelen makes several power
supplies ranging from 4 outlets to 8, and some of them are programmable as to
flash pattern. They are designed for heavy duty use for police and other
emergency vehicles. The prices are quite reasonable. The cables running from
the power supplies to the strobe light itself are heavily shielded and in
numerous installations on police cars and ambulances I have never had any
interference or stray RF problems. The bulbs themselves are the exact same
ones Wheelen uses in their TSO'ed aircraft units, only the mounting base is
different. Check out a police supply company called Galls for info, or look
up Wheelen's web site.
J.R. Coleman, building the wings RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> i originally started the thread and here's what i've found to this point.
>
> what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more
> capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on
> air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other
> bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as
> well.
>
> Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to
> "unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such
> systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies.
Oh, my!
Well, they certainly can RECEIVE Amplitude Modulated aircraft
communications, but they ONLY TRANSMIT FM MODULATION. Pure FM to an AM
receiver sounds like a dead carrier. Now, I have speculated (earlier
tonight with some of my technical colleagues, in fact), that an FM ham
band transceiver *might* have enough AM component in its signal to be
heard by an AM receiver, but I have not had the opportunity to try it.
If it worked, it would probably sound like it had extremely weak
modulation. Also, what works on one transceiver *might not* work on
another. Then there's the problem of interfacing it to the radio
system, which is worked out pretty well on most of the airband
handhelds. It's your $500 crap shoot. Bet I'm not the only reply to
this.... I have 75 more messages to go.
Good luck. 73.
Tom (I'd try it before I'd buy it) Glover
Ham Radio VE7DQ, Career Radio Tech, Boatanchor guy, etc. etc.
RV-6A Surrey BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC wrote:
>
>
> I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I
> cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure
> what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets
> for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea?
>
> Pablo
> ARGENTINA
>
Pablo,
Others have noted that 25 inch pounds is the recommended torque and
offered good suggestions. I will just add that 25 inch pounds can
easily be achieved using a nutdriver (I don't know if this term is
common in Argentina, a 'nutdriver' is like a screwdriver, but with a
socket at the tip instead of a blade).
Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
Subject: | Re: Portable VHF's |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
They tune the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use
them to communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the
Fly Market or to coordinate getting back together for lunch.
>
> 73 de WB6RQN
So, what frequency are we going to chat on at OSH this year?
Tom Glover VE7DQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
> Randy Riggles wrote:
>
> > RV'ers
> >
> > Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be
> > mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level?
The latest Aircraft Spruce catalog has such a mechanical gauge on page
152. $39.50 each. P/N 05-16700. Weldable adapter flanges, P/N 10361
are $10.45.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit |
You can also order a new weldment from Van's for a very reasonable fee.
Saves the work of modifying your old one.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 64ST with electric flaps
>Mike:
>
>It is very simple if you buy the kit. The modification to the weldment is
the
>difficult part.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
Bob, the plans usually say somewhere the TYPE of rivet to use if you look
hard enough, but for length, never trust the plans, as we have discussed
many times before. I'm sure lots of people use the "1.5" rule, etc., I
always use my trusty Avery rivet guage to determine length. It's fast,
simple, and cheap.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A Wing on order
Pittsburgh, PA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Paulovich [SMTP:jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rivet size
>
>
> riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar
> (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there
> a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in
> arkansas
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Registration stuff |
Brian,
I just left mine blank. I don't think the FAA cares how much you bought it
for, just that you bought it leagally. for the state of NM they hit you only
for registration. It works out to about 2 cents a pound based on the max
gross weight. for new A/C and declines steadily based on age of the
airframe. My registration cost $37 for the first year. Havn't heard anything
about any other taxes for us.
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV-6A FLYER
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Registration stuff
G'day RVers,
I just received the "Aircraft (Kit) Bill of Sale" from Van's so that I may
continue with the registration of my reserved "N" number. I noticed that at
the top, it asks for the sale price. So, what do I put here? The total cost
of all four subkits? Also, is this dollar figure used by the various state
jackbooted-gestapo taxation organizations to assess a tax? If so, do you
think they'd believe I bought the kit for $1.95? OK, maybe not.
Your sage advice is appreciated.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
"P" leads, and cables.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Folding bicycles |
The Dahon bikes fit just fine into the baggage compartment of my SIX with a
pop up canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Amateur Radio at OSH |
>
>Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>They tune the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use
>them to communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the
>Fly Market or to coordinate getting back together for lunch.
>>
>> 73 de WB6RQN
>
>So, what frequency are we going to chat on at OSH this year?
Last year our little group used something like 147.500 simplex.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Bob:
If you are working on a 6, upper right corner of drwg 3a. This is a guide
to not only the HS, but the rest of the project. As far a length goes use
your 1.5d rule always. some may be long or short from the call outsm & if
you choose to you can trim a long one to fit.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com.
>
>riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear
>spar
>(hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is
>there
>a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in
>arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | ICOM ham rig modification |
Darn. Someone wrote to me asking about making the Icom IC-706 able to
transmit on the aviation comm bands, both HF and VHF, and I managed to
misplace the message so I am posting the info here.
The information about the IC-706, and many other radios as well, is located
at:
http://www.pantherco.com/radiorepair/radio_modification_files_at_qrz.htm
There is info about both the IC-706 and the IC-706mkII there.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Slot |
Kyle, my slot is 1 1/2 inch long. Be aware that the cable fairing
completely hides the hole, so depending on the length of your fairing, the
hole can be longer or shorter. After I had spent a number of hours
fabricating my fairings, I ran accross a picture on Sam Buchannan's web
site. It is a clean and simple alternative to the standard fairing. Look
at the picture if you haven't ordered your stuff yet.
Tom Barnes -6 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 8:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Slot
>
>
>Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the
rudder
>cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension..
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
>
> riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar
> (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there
> a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in
> arkansas
>
Bob,
Start with an AN470AD4-7 and use a rivet length gauge to check length.
If you don't have a rivet length gauge, the rivet should extend at least
3/16". If the -7 is too short, go up to a -8 and measure again.
Use the rivet diameters called for, but always measure the length and
adjust to proper length. Van's length call outs are a little short
sometimes.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 05/03/99 |
Thank You Randall
I have found the TCDS and the limits I needed, my instrument shop is sending
the faceplate this friday for silk screening.
Again Thank You
Cameron
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: ICOM ham rig modification |
From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Brian,
Thanks. Just what I needed.
Carl Froehlich, KV4U
Vienna, VA
RV-8A N716RV (reserved)
Finishing last few odds and ends on the wings
>Darn. Someone wrote to me asking about making the Icom IC-706 able to
>transmit on the aviation comm bands, both HF and VHF, and I managed to
>misplace the message so I am posting the info here.
>
>The information about the IC-706, and many other radios as well, is located
>at:
>
>http://www.pantherco.com/radiorepair/radio_modification_files_at_qrz.htm
>
>There is info about both the IC-706 and the IC-706mkII there.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
Subject: | Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else ? |
I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with
over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and
hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000
hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking
this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I
am 42 years old.
Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was
significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and
he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions:
Damage Exclusions:
4c) civil commitions ..
4d) any act of one or more person, whether or not agents of a soverign
power, for political or terrorist purposes and whether the loss or damage is
accidental or intentional.
4e) Any malicious act or act of sabotage. ... Furthermore this policy does
not cover claims arising while the aircraft is outside the control of the
insured by reason of any of the above perils.
5c3) Electrical and electromagnetic interferenece ..
5c4) Interference with use of property.
The way the policy reads to me, any nut can smash my plane ( malicious
sabotage ), lightning could strike my plane and damage it ( 5c3) , and its
not covered. There is more but you get the idea.
When I got done reading the policy, I was thinking what does it cover.
I know EAA has had a close working relationship with Avemco, and that
association instilled confidence in me originally. Still, the cost is very
high in my opinion, and I would prefer to spend less money.
Am I reading the damage exclusions incorrectly ( which is entirely
possible ) ?
Are there any insurance companies out there with a smaller price ticket than
Avemco's but has a policy that leaves you feeling covered ?
Thanks in advance for you advice
Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net RV6A / Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls |
I thought others on the list might like to see Bill's answer to Brian's
question so here it is. Also I am still running the special offer for the
LRI at an appreciable discount. AL
Subject: LRI
Thanks for your question regarding the LRI
and high "G" loading. As with any AOA type
indicator, that is what and when it is used
most. I have one installed in a military jet.
We don't fly unless we are flying formation
or "Dog Fighting". It works great! Nobody can
turn inside of me because I use the LRI. I
know exactly when I am behind the power curve
and exactly when my wing will stall. A wing
will stall at any attitude, any altitude, any
airspeed but always at the same Angle of
Attack. So the answer to your question is
that many people can verify that it works
under load. Because that is one of many
important things that AOA gauges is used for.
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Bill
>
>Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at high
>loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will the
>LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place?
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else |
?
I would look at the definition of "sabotage" - sounds like a foreign
agent/government might have to be involved...Also ask if damage from
lightening is covered...electromagnetic interference is different than a
lightening strike.
I would also refer you to a Kitplanes Magazine article talking about how
Avemco refused to cover hull damage and a suit brought against one of its
"insureds" because he changed the fuel system to a pressurized one, didn't
like it, changed it back to the original configuration, then had an off
field landing where a third party had some damage. Avemo refused to pay or
defend claiming he should have had an FAA inspection when he changed the
fuel system, and another FAA inspection when he PUT IT BACK IN THE ORIGINAL
CONFIGURATION !!!
I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for reasons
and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting.
RV-6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
Also, try Forrest Agency. They have been the best rates that we have seen so
far. Give it a try. 800-536-2011, ask for Craig. Tell 'em Team Rocket sent
ya!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "solanas" <solanas(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | RV-6a W&B results, ready for first flight |
Well, N804RS is painted and waiting for an FAA inspection next week. Ready
to fly!!!
The weight was 1165# (oh well) and the c.g. was 1/2" behind the forward
limit.
It's pretty loaded: 0-360, electronic ignition, constant speed prop, full
ifr (including gps, S-tec system 30 autopilot), VM-1000.
The battery's in the standard position.
Rick Solana, N804RS
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
The exclusions that you are referring to are the "War" exclusion and
Electro-magnetic exclusion and are on all aviation policies, including
airline forms. Some general aviation policies allow a limited write-back
(Extended Coverage Endorsement) for some War exclusions but I have not seen
this on a home-built policy. Lightening is NOT considered Electro-magnetic
interference.
Yes, AVEMCO is hosing you at $2,100. Seek alternative quotes. Make sure that
the hull is insured for "all risks" of loss or damage.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC-NJ
Vice President
Aon Aviation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kurt" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 kit for Sale |
All kits,( tail, wing, fuselage, and finishing) for sale. Tail and wings
complete, fuselage not started. . Philogiston spar, strobes, position
lights, landing light. Excellent construction. Not time to finish.
E-mail pictures on request.
$10,000 or trade towards 108-2 Stinson, Piper Pacer.....??
Kurt
Lake Geneva, WI
414-763-1232 w 414-248-0470 h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
In a message dated 5/5/99 19:37:05, scottj(at)ais.net writes:
I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with
over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and
hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000
hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking
this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I
am 42 years old.
Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was
significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and
he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions:
Damage Exclusions:
>>
I have no advice on insurance companies as I too am a little bewildered. It
did take many phone calls to Avemco to get the quotes straight.
Having said that I am still with Avemco, but have never made a claim. I
would suggest you start by demanding a re figure? I just renewed my 6A for
$75K after two years, and the premium was $1382. I have more hours but
cannot believe it would make any difference. Sounds to me like they have you
in the wrong category.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
Call these Guys at Aviation Ins mgn. Inc ! 800 827 4554 Steve Nealy
________________________________________________________________________________
Need Help: I am rebuilding an I0-320-B1A Engine that has been converted
to an 0-320 Carburetor engine. I have the cylinders removed for a top
overhaul, and it currently has standard pistons. My question is would
the NFS 9.5 pistons improve the performance over standard pistons? They
are rather expensive, and I don't know if the performance would be worth
the $900.00. Has any body made this modification.
Harvey Sigmon - Waiting for RV-6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
Subject: | Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls |
Yep, reads just like a sales brochure. Bill has twice promised me
that he would get the "engineer" to respond to my analysis which
says that the difference between the two pitot readings will not
retain stall calibration across weight change or G load change. No
answer. Do I believe them? Not yet.
Peter
>
> I thought others on the list might like to see Bill's answer to Brian's
> question so here it is. Also I am still running the special offer for the
> LRI at an appreciable discount. AL
>
>
> Subject: LRI
>
> Thanks for your question regarding the LRI
> and high "G" loading. As with any AOA type
> indicator, that is what and when it is used
> most. I have one installed in a military jet.
> We don't fly unless we are flying formation
> or "Dog Fighting". It works great! Nobody can
> turn inside of me because I use the LRI. I
> know exactly when I am behind the power curve
> and exactly when my wing will stall. A wing
> will stall at any attitude, any altitude, any
> airspeed but always at the same Angle of
> Attack. So the answer to your question is
> that many people can verify that it works
> under load. Because that is one of many
> important things that AOA gauges is used for.
>
> Let me know if you have anymore questions.
>
> Bill
>
> >
> >Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at
> >high loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will
> >the LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place?
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
In a message dated 05/05/1999 10:01:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<<
I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for reasons
and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting.
>>
Additionally, the state you are phisically in has bearing on what the
insurance company can/can not deny. I have a request in to EAA NAFI division
to provide information on what states have laws that require coverage.
Basically, some states have laws that require the insurance to cover you, IF
you are appropriately rated in the aircraft. Modifications to homebuilts that
meet the requirements for additional approval should be approved regardless
of how the insurance applies.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n(44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
Subject: | Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls |
You got me curious too. Read the info at:
http://www.liftreserve.com/erau.htm - it may help
>
> Yep, reads just like a sales brochure. Bill has twice promised me
> that he would get the "engineer" to respond to my analysis which
> says that the difference between the two pitot readings will not
> retain stall calibration across weight change or G load change. No
> answer. Do I believe them? Not yet.
>
> Peter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have tried both and think the 75089 pistons is the best all around choice
for the 0-320 series this is just my outlook .
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
Give Mac McGee a call at AUA. His phone is 800-727-3823. We've
insured our RVs with him for years. He likes RVs and has great rates and
they pay when you have a problem.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splice Trick |
>The latest issue of Sport Aviation has an article
>on wire termination. He recommends crimp and solder.
>The crimp for mechanical, and solder for the electrical.
For the life of me, I cannot understand why
folks recommend this practice. The companies
that make solderless devices and take the time
to get them Mil-Spec'ed and/or certified would
be equally confused. There have been hundreds of
thousands of airplanes and bizillions of cars
built with nary a solder joint in the electrical
system and they hang together just fine.
IF one is using poor tools then solder might be
useful, but if you're going to solder, why not
forget the crimp tools and solder everything?
Save some $.
>I thought solder caused a point of possible fatigue,
>and was not the best way to go.
Both crimp AND solder have ways of putting
stress risers into a group of wire strands
making them more likely to fail right at the
connection than anywhere else along the wire.
This is why crimp terminals have TWO places
to grab the wire . . . the ELECTRICAL joint
where the stranding is mashed into a homogenous
mass and the INSULATION GRIP where the wire
is supported to keep vibration stresses off
the electrical joint.
Soldered joints need heat shrink over the
joint for impoved support of the final
assembly.
In terms of overall reliablity, there is NO
difference between a properly soldered joint
and a crimped joint. The crimped joints are
prefered in a factory environment 'cause crimp
tools don't burn holes in the carpet and they
require less craftsmanship to operate than
a soldering iron. The folk who tout one over
the other or recommend BOTH as some sort of
reliability enhancement simply don't understand
the physics of the matter.
>Good quality terminals are a must. I use only "AMP"
>brand on the airframe. There are probably others out
>there that are good quality also, but I listened to
>my radio shop, and I haven't had any problems yet
>with my wiring, just the certified equipment connected.
Another myth propogated by folk who simply
don't take the time to understand the products
they use or recommend. AMP makes a full range
of terminals from open barrel, uninsulated
el-cheapos up through Plasti-Grip (automotive/
hardware store stuff) and topped off with the
pre-insulated diamond grip (PIDG) terminals
which have been standards of comparison for
decades. Dozens of other terminal manufacturers
make similarly scaled products in order to satisfy
the needs of a very large market. You can buy
terminals UN-SUITED for use in airplanes from
AMP or anybody else.
Bad or poorly supported advice is no substitute
for an understanding of how things work and why
we choose to use them.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re:Low-cost landing lights/flasher |
>I recall a Bob Nuckolls article which had a diode which does what you
describe.
>My memory says that with this component in the circuit there is always some
>power to the bulb (kind of warming the elements) and when you turn it on they
>will have less tendency to shock the filament.
There are two ways to mitigate the inrush current to
a lamp filament at turn on. One is to keep some amount of
current flowing in the lamp filament equal to about 1-2%
of it's full operating power at all times. This keeps the
filament above the bittle/ductile transition temperaure
(more resistant to vibration) and elevates the resistance
of the filament so that application of full power has a lower
inrush value.
The "keep warm" power can be from a small DC-DC converter
that puts out about 3 volts which can be diode distributed
to all of the aircraft's lighting circuits. The other technique
involves the use of resistors in parallel with the control
switch of each lighting circuit such that a small but significant
amount of current flows to the lamps even when the switch is
open or OFF.
The other technique involves incorporation of an inrush
limiter in series with the lamp. These are educated
resistors that have a significant resistance value when
cold (.2 to .5 ohms) and drop to an in-significant value
(.005 to .01 ohms) when warm. When operated in series with
the lamp, their cold resistance keeps the inrush to a lower,
more desired value but a few seconds after application of
power to the lamp, their resistance drops due to the
warming effect of lamp current flowing in the device.
NEITHER of these techniques is particularly significant
in terms of lamp life for wig-wagged landing lights. This
is because the lamp filament doesn't have time to cool off
between flashes so after the inrush current for second
and subsequent flashes is MUCH lower than the first.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurasic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | RE: Sorting Outlook Express |
Yes you can. I have outlook set up to dump all my RV list email into a
seperate folder. Go to the "Tools" menu and click on organize and you'll see
what to do.
Doug Hormann
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:22 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
>
>
> >> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that
> >> one would
> >> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the
> >> other personal stuff that comes in?
>
> I don't know about Outlook Express but the free version of Eudora has very
> good mail filters. So does the Netscape mail reader.
>
> I have mine set up so that my mailing list mail is automatically shunted
> from my inbox to a separate mailbox for each mailing list.
>
> Oh, and I also wrote rules that examine the body of the message for things
> like:
>
> "HOT SEX"
> "mail addresses"
>
> and automatically routes them to the trash mailbox for future perusal. I
> had to turn off my filters for "juno.com" and "hotmail.com" because they
> were discarding email from some people on the list. (But it also
> automatically discarded email from my ex-wife which I thought was a
> positive side effect but I digress.)
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Metaflex FCR Primer is a 2-pack filiform corrosion resistant washprimer
which has been designed:
*As an alternative pretreatment to chemical conversion coatings.
*For reactivation of aged anodixed or chromated alloys and sealed
anodized surfaces
*For strippability of polyurethane systems with alkaline paint removers
*To provide adhesion of subsequent polyurethane or epoxy/isocyanate primers.
There is a Boeing spec (BMS 10-72 type 5) and an Airbus spec
(NT10.113).Do mind that all Boeing specs have copyrights on them.
Physical properties:
Drying times Set to touch 15
minutes
20 +/- 2c Recoatable min 2 hours
Recoatable max 8
hours
Theoretical Coverage 25m2/per litre base at 6 micron
Dry film weight 1.8g/m2/micron
colour(dry film) Translucent,brownish/Yellow
Conditions temperature 15-35
c
Relative humidity 35-75%
Dry film thickness 6-10 micron
potlife 6 hours
24 months shelflife
When you use this there's no need for alodine which saves having a mess in
your shop.
Weight is very similar to use of alodine if applied to above thickness.
If you have damaged parts you can rub them down to bare aluminum and spray
them with metaflex,epoxyprimer and gloss.
Application with ordinary spraygun
Akzo-Nobel Aerospace Finishes is the manufacterer,they might trade under AD
Aerospace in the U.S.A(Akzo-Dexter Aerospace)
RV-4 Empenage
G-RVMJ/Northern Ireland
marcelderuiter(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I now have 21 hours on my RV-8, and the only problem I have found is that
when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a zapping
noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes, no
problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem? Standard
belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the strobe
noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Covers |
Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8?
Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep
putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock
these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe
Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other
suggestions?
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else |
?
Dave,
Please let us know what you find out. Dave & I would be interested to know
what Connecticut requires.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
********************************
>From: DFaile(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
> else ?
>Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 07:19:34 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 05/05/1999 10:01:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
>
><<
> I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for
>reasons
> and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting.
> >>
>
>Additionally, the state you are phisically in has bearing on what the
>insurance company can/can not deny. I have a request in to EAA NAFI
>division
>to provide information on what states have laws that require coverage.
>Basically, some states have laws that require the insurance to cover you,
>IF
>you are appropriately rated in the aircraft. Modifications to homebuilts
>that
>meet the requirements for additional approval should be approved regardless
>of how the insurance applies.
>
>david faile, fairfield, ct
>mcfii/a&p
>faa aviation safety counselor
>eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
>christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
>rv6 n(44df) started
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Finding a good used I/O360 Engine - Part 3: The Purchase |
This is Part 3 of the history of our search for a good used I/O-360
Lycoming engine. In this segment we have purchased our engine. Parts 1
(Education) & 2 (The Engine) can be found in the archives in March 1999.
Part 3 - The Purchase
I called Dick Waters (Air-Tec) in late March and asked him to send me the
firm price quote for the converted IO-360 engine. Dick said he'd send it out
but had not received the fuel injection servo back, from being inspected,
and didn't have a cost yet. I asked him to send the quote without the servo
inspection and we'd settle up on the servo inspection when it was returned.
About 4 days later I received the invoice for $13,949 as we discussed.
I called Dick back on April 2nd and told him I'd forwarded his invoice
and
others to NAFCO and thought we'd have our checks around the 15th. Dick said
he'd be out of town the following week, but he'd ship the engine with all
logs next week. He said that he ships his engines via Watkins Freight and
found them to be less expensive than Roadway. I would need to pay Watkins
for the freight charges when the engine was delivered, estimated cost $150.
I told him I probably would not have my check to him until after Sun-N-Fun.
He said that was OK and invited Dave and I to visit his shop when we were in
Florida. We agreed and said we'd stop in around 2 PM on the 13th.
On April 9th my wife got a call from Watkins saying the engine was at their
Orange Terminal (near New Haven, CT) and that they could deliver it on
Tuesday April 13th. I called Watkins on Monday (4/12) and said I'd pickup
the engine around 10AM. When I arrived Watkins loaded the large 400# box in
my truck and gave me a bill for $168. A little more than the estimate but
within reason.
Dave and I unloaded the box (very carefully) and opened it. The engine
was
secured well with no apparent damage. It was freshly painted and looked
great. All the fire sleeve hoses, fuel injection servo, prop governor, and
misc parts were in separate plastic bags. There was also a large envelope,
that contained the original engine logs, yellow tags (both current & from
previous overhaul 1036 hours ago) and a new log book for the converted
IO-360 A1B6. Dick also included the original IO-360 C1E6 data plate, in case
we wanted to return the engine to that configuration.
When we arrived in Tampa, on the 13th, we drove directly to Dick's shop in
Orlando. It was a clean medium size building. When we entered the shop there
were a number of engines being readied for shipment, being worked on and
many bins of parts, all neatly arranged. We also check out his accessory
shop, which builds light weight alternators and starters. While we were
there we had a chance talk with a number of his employees, which all seemed
to be very knowledgeable in their specialty. All in all we felt very
comfortable with our decision to purchase our IO-360 engine from Dick.
Our one surprise was the invoice for the Bendix fuel injection servo. Dick
had received the invoice the previous day and it was for $800. The servo had
required a complete overhaul and Dick agreed that it was the right thing to
do. However, he was visibly upset over the unexpected overhaul vs
inspection. He asked if we would agreed to cover half the cost and he'd
cover the other half. We agreed.
The total cost for our IO-360 A1B6 engine with 1036 hours SMOH was $14,517.
This included: a complete teardown and inspection; new bearings; new rings
and cylinders honed; overhauled Bendix fuel injection servo; prop governor;
vacuum pump; new light weight starter and alternator; all hoses (including
fire sleeve hoses) tested; mags with wires and spark plugs; engine baffling;
log books; Lycoming Parts Catalog and operating manuals for our engine; a
one year warranty on the case and crank and two year warranty on the
cylinders - beginning at the first flight.
Dick also asked us to call him before we started the engine and said he'd
have his chief mechanic walk us through the start.
We are hopefully eight (8) or ten (10) months away from starting the engine
and will keep the "List" informed when we start it.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A awaiting QB
Niantic, CT
P.S.
When we returned from S-N-F we completed a detail inspection of the
engine and found that the fuel vent valve was missing and two (2) of the mag
wires had small nicks in them. When I called Dick he said to send back the
nicked mag wires and he'd replace them at no charge. He also sent out the
missing fuel vent valve the next day at no cost.
If anyone has any additional questions please contact me off-line and I'd be
happy to discuss our research and experiences with you. Chuck
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
I have heard a number of things about Avemco recently as I searched for good
insurance. My understanding is that Avemco was purchased by a larger insurance
company last year. Following this purchase, the field agents (who were dispersed
throughout the country were "let go" and all customer correspondence is now
managed by agents at the home office. These home office agents, whom I have
spoken with, definitely don't exude the same friendly attitude that the Avemco
field agents used to (IMO).
My suggestion would be to look elsewhere. I believe things are changing quickly
at Avemco, and not for the better. I suspect that the company which took over
Avemco has looked at the insurance risk and decided that some things need to
change (i.e., too much risk for expected return) in their aviation insurance
segment.
Good luck. Let us know what you discover.
Clay Smith, RV-4, fitting wheel pants
BumFlyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/5/99 19:37:05, scottj(at)ais.net writes:
>
>
> I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with
> over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and
> hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000
> hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking
> this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I
> am 42 years old.
>
> Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was
> significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and
> he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions:
>
> Damage Exclusions:
> >>
>
> I have no advice on insurance companies as I too am a little bewildered. It
> did take many phone calls to Avemco to get the quotes straight.
>
> Having said that I am still with Avemco, but have never made a claim. I
> would suggest you start by demanding a re figure? I just renewed my 6A for
> $75K after two years, and the premium was $1382. I have more hours but
> cannot believe it would make any difference. Sounds to me like they have you
> in the wrong category.
>
> D Walsh
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu> |
Subject: | 2 piece wheel pants on RV6A |
Fellow RV enthusiast I'm looking for someone who switched from the one piece
wheel pants to Vans 2 piece wheel pants on there 6A to see if they gained
any speed from the mod. please contact me off the list at:
luker.michael(at)mayo.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com> |
Subject: | Baggage allowance |
Could some one give me a rough idea of maximum baggage wt for an RV6A?
Total passenger weight would be 350lbs, full tanks etc etc.
Thanks in advance
Dan Wiesel
RV6a Slider QB Canopy drilled and in
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Check out Merle's RV-4 Page |
Hey guys, If anyone is interested, I have a website with a few pix of my 4.3
RV-4 and a little background info
Click here:
Merle's RV-4 Page
Regards,
Merle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
Subject: | water-based primers and paints |
listers,
polyfiber, the makers of a number of composite and fabric finishing
products, has a line of water-based primers (metal-prime) and paints (top
gloss) for use on metal aircraft. their promotional literature sounds pretty
promising. from my point of view, the biggest advantage would be the ability
to paint the airplane at home in my garage without having to deal with lots
of hazardous materials.
just wondering, has anyone out there tried this stuff on aluminum? any
recommendations?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
starting finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Donald Farrand <dotndon(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Scott Johnson asked about other insurance possibilities
I have my RV6 insured with AUA (Aviation Unlimited Agency Phone 1 800
727 3823. I only insured for $40K, but I am 74 yrs old, just over 1000
hours and about 550 of it in RV's (I built and flew a '4 for over 5
years before started flying the '6 in March. My policy including hull
and I don't recall any of the "gotcha's" you pointed out, =$1520 per yr.
Anyway, Call Rob Kamsch and check it out...beats avemco!
Don N164DF 30 + hours since March 3, 1999 and what a fun machine!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
> when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a
> zapping
> noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes, no
> problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem?
> Standard
> belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the strobe
> noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit.
Whelen uses a single power supply to service both strobes, I believe?
I've wondered if having two power supplies to keep the high voltage run
(PS to light) down, a'la Aeroflash, is worth the weight - running only
12 VDC out to the power supplies seems the right thing to do, so I
think maybe so.
I'm sure the high voltage line out to the wings is shielded - is the
shield grounded well?
Not all electrical noise will show up when the radio is passive.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Wing tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths |
I'm here to correct my criticism of the bolt length code not being always
workable. I think it is correct with AN bolts but need to look up others such
as NAS bolts as they do not follow the rule.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebodyelse |
?
As a side note to the ongoing discussion about Avemco....below is
another view on the company and its current customer relations.
A local flight school has a notice posted on their wall that they will
only honor Avemco's Renter Policies until June of this year. After that
renters will have to use another company or will not be able to rent
their planes.
Naturally I asked their reason and was told that Avemco was slow
and or resistant to settling claims that they have submitted in the
past year or so. They didn't used to be that way according to the
flight school owner.
Take the above with a grain of salt and do your own due diligence
before buying from any particular company, but this tells me that
I have to review my choice of Renter's Insurance this year.
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A
New Jersey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
-----Original Message-----
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ?
>
>I have heard a number of things about Avemco recently as I searched for
good
>insurance. My understanding is that Avemco was purchased by a larger
insurance
>company last year. Following this purchase, the field agents (who were
dispersed
>throughout the country were "let go" and all customer correspondence is now
>managed by agents at the home office. These home office agents, whom I
have
>spoken with, definitely don't exude the same friendly attitude that the
Avemco
>field agents used to (IMO).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Bob knckolls Seminar |
Anyone interested in attending a Bob Kuckolls seminar in Florida?
He would need a minimum of 20 attendees. It would be in Oct or Nov.
If any interest, please E-mail me directly
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Just started wings
Miami Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
I think Don meant to send this to the list - probably one of those
e-mailer things.
Personally, I'm not having much trouble with RF noise, what with my
wings in the jigs as they are...
:)
- Mike
--- Don D Gates wrote:
> Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:25:39 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com>
> Reply-to: dgates(at)techie.com
> Subject: RF noise
> To: grobdriver(at)yahoo.com
>
> Hi,
>
> You might try adding some capacitors from the HV
> shielding to good *solid* grounds. Also as
> mentioned, verify that you have good ground bonding
> throughout the plane. Consider installing a ground
> bond strap between the wings and the fuse, especially
> if you have the Phil anodized spar -- the anodizing
> is a great insulator.
>
> You can even use "P-Lead" noise supressor that you
> can buy from Spruce or wherever for this purpose.
>
> Also look closely at the comm antenna ground bonding
> as well....
>
> Don
==
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
>The LRI works under all loads. Its been tested under all conditions. I don't
>believe the Frantz unit is a true AOA. It measures the same thing the LRI
does.
>Pressure in two places.
It measures presure on the top and bottom of the wing (wing loading) and
corrects that with differential pressure from the pitot-static system.
That is then run through a calibration/conversion table that linearizes the
output. I did some research into the original work on this type of "no
moving parts" AoA indicator that was done by NASA (the papers are on-line
so you can search for them). This is a true AoA system that produces
consistent results, at least insofar as I have been able to test it. The
markings on the display that correspond to stall, max performance approach,
normal approach, and best L/D are right on the money. I have tested
critical AoA at loading between 1G and 4.5Gs and it is right on the money.
So it is a fair bit different from the LRI. Some of the basic precepts are
the same but actually measuring pressure differential on the wing itself is
useful by itself because you can directly deduce wing loading. So I will
stick with my AoA indicator.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
>
>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8?
Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had their covers on all the
aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications for me free of charge.
Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4 and the -6 so I suspect
they have them for the -8.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
>does anyone have names of builders w/ 6 cyl. stretched sixes?
Tom Hallendorf created the "Super Six" which is stretched and
semi-clipped: n888th(at)flash.net
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A?
Thanks
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Miami Beach, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eric Barnes <erbarnes(at)cisco.com> |
Both answers are correct... but it depends on which "Super 6" you are looking for.
Stretching is a must for CG purposes with the big engine. The question is,
do you want the 4 seater?
Tom's below is the "Rocketized" Super 6 (330hp that won a race recently at 216kts),
and the other is the four seater.
EB #80131
At 01:20 PM 5/6/99, you wrote:
>
>>does anyone have names of builders w/ 6 cyl. stretched sixes?
>
>
>Tom Hallendorf created the "Super Six" which is stretched and
>semi-clipped: n888th(at)flash.net
>
>
>Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
>San Jose, CA Engine mounted...
>President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
>http://www.skybound.com/BARV
>http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
>
>
Eric Barnes
Sr. Financial Analyst, US Channel Sales
408-527-5967
E R B A R N E S @cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
I believe they are available on Van's website in the "downloads" area.
Sylvain
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Autocad
>
> Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Peter Laurence
> RV6A Wings
> Miami Beach, Fl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com> |
I have a three-view of a -6 that can easily be converted to a -6a. The only problem
is that it is archived on a zip disk and it will take me a couple days to
get my hands on a zip drive. So if you can't find one from somebody else I'll
dig mine up for you.
I also have an AutoCAD drawing of the instrument panel, complete with common instruments,
switches, fuses, controls, etc. The panel drawing is still on my hard
drive if you are interested in that one.
I am also in the process of creating a 3-D AutoCAD model of a -6a with correct
internal structure, right down to the ribs, angles, skins etc. Of course my real
-6a will probably be done before the model, maybe.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A?
Thanks
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Miami Beach, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
QUALITY IS THE BEST YOU WILL FIND AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE. DO NOT
ARCHIVE
--- Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy
> cover for my RV-8?
>
> Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had
> their covers on all the
> aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications
> for me free of charge.
> Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4
> and the -6 so I suspect
> they have them for the -8.
>
>
> Brian Lloyd
> Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lloyd.com 3461
> Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com
> Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6513 - voice
> +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
>
>
>
> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of
> fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List:
> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
> Archive Search Engine:
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> Archive Browsing:
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> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 2 piece wheel pants on RV6A |
In a message dated 5/6/99 9:19:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
luker.michael(at)mayo.edu writes:
<< Fellow RV enthusiast I'm looking for someone who switched from the one
piece
wheel pants to Vans 2 piece wheel pants on there 6A to see if they gained
any speed from the mod. please contact me off the list at: >>
This information would also be useful to folks on the "list" do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: water-based primers and paints |
In a message dated 5/6/99 10:24:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com writes:
<< just wondering, has anyone out there tried this stuff on aluminum? any
recommendations? >>
Louis
Commercial aircraft companies have jumped on the bandwagon in the use of
water-
based primers on their production aircraft for just the reasons you
mentioned. It seems to work quite well. On the downside, I believe it is
probably a bit less tolerant of solvents such as MEK, although they tolerate
alcohol quite well. One thing that
is very different in their use is that they require the use of "ionized
water", and probably do not have the pot life you may be used to.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
This is what I did too...
> can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you
> template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level
> to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty
Sadly, the instrument I used did not have the holes all square with each other.
When done I wished I'd got the template - or made one - or checked the
instrument first.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Atlanta Builders to the Rescue!! |
Hey there Rocketman or RVers,
There is an Atlanta builder that needs a place to construct his airplane. He
lives on the north side of atlanta. If there is any of you out there that
wouldn't mind having a fellow builder in your hangar, please give me a call
and I will relay the info. I think that with the high cost of flying these
days that it is really good to help each other out with our projects. Thanks
in advance!!
Scott
561-748-2429
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Elevator balancing (RV-4) |
Fellow Listers:
I'm fitting the elevators to my HS. I have the elevators balanced such that
they just tend to return to the up position very slowly. Is this about
right? (they are unpainted currently)
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip;
however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; could
this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to a
central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I had
failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with the
engine shut down. Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>> when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a
>> zapping
>> noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes,
>no
>> problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem?
>> Standard
>> belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the
>strobe
>> noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit.
>
>Whelen uses a single power supply to service both strobes, I believe?
>I've wondered if having two power supplies to keep the high voltage
>run
>(PS to light) down, a'la Aeroflash, is worth the weight - running only
>12 VDC out to the power supplies seems the right thing to do, so I
>think maybe so.
>
>I'm sure the high voltage line out to the wings is shielded - is the
>shield grounded well?
>Not all electrical noise will show up when the radio is passive.
>
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>N140RV (Reserved)
>Wing tanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
Brian; Do you know the price on these covers? Do they have an e-mail
address? Thanks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>>
>>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8?
>
>Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had their covers on all
>the
>aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications for me free of
>charge.
> Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4 and the -6 so I
>suspect
>they have them for the -8.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite
>1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
insured our RVs with him for years. He likes RVs and has great rates and
they pay when you have a problem.
George Orndorff>>>
Ditto George. They also do not exclude hand propping for us T-Craft guys. Mac
has been great and he even suggested kit coverage with someone else because
of their pricing for homebuilt kits not yet flying. I am definitely going
with AUA when I am ready for flight.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV 6QB (forward fuse stuff)
N198RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
-----Original Message-----
From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 11:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy Covers
>
>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8?
>Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep
>putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock
>these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe
>Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other
>suggestions?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
Von,
Try Custom Cabin Covers, in Ocala Florida. Tony Brazier makes a fine
cover from "Evolution 4" material. I have been using his product for years.
Telephone number is 352-237-1811.
Bob Bristol, Rv6A C-CTZ, Quinte West, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott:
I would be interested in the RV6A 3D view and also the instrument panel layout
if I might have a copy of the Autocad file.
Thanks
Gerald
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kent Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: SHOP PRESS/WING SPARS |
Re: Wheel reinventing: We (me and my EAA Chapter) experimented with
pressing those rivets in a standard shop-type hydraulic press but the
rivet would clinch (bend) about 3 out of 5 times. We were careful to
line everything up but it just didn't work right. Something to do with
slow plastic deformation, slight misalignments or bad juju. We bought a
big rivet gun.
--Kent A.
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Would anybody who has used either a home made shop press or a shop press from
> Harbour Freight for setting the rivets in the main wing spar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument spacing |
On Thu, 6 May 1999, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> This is what I did too...
>
> > can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you
> > template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level
> > to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty
>
> Sadly, the instrument I used did not have the holes all square with each
> other.
>
> When done I wished I'd got the template - or made one - or checked the
> instrument first.
I was very surprised when I purchased all my instruments and sat down
with calipers to measure each one. Clearly there is no such thing as a
standard instrument form factor. I ended up with a custom template for
each instrument.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.916.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
On Thu, 6 May 1999 n41va(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
> Brian; Do you know the price on these covers? Do they have an e-mail
> address? Thanks.
Van's used to carry a cover made by Bruce's for the -4. It was in the
catalog. Bruce's custom covers used to be in San Jose and Bruce would
come out to SJC or PAO and measure your airplane to put custom pockets on
for antennas, OAT probes, whatever. He didn't charge extra for that.
Here are the phone numbers: Bruce's Custom Covers 800-777-6405, 408-738-3959
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.916.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
Hi Guys...
Question for you regarding rivets.. I was riveting my ribs to the
HS-603PP rear spar with my hand squeezer and had one rivet that I didn't
like. After I center punched it and drilled it out, my hole was a
little oblong. My question is how much is too much... I've seen people
talking about lightly squeezing a rivet in a hand squeeze to thicken it
somewhat before using it. I thought about adding a third rivet in the
middle but the HS-609PP's kind of eliminate that option. I'll have to
measure but I don't believe there is enough room in the middle for a
rivet set. Any other options..
Thanks..
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Empennage
Bonnyville, AB Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rivet Problems |
I had a similar problem and in this case wasn't comfortable with the
"squeezed rivet" trick which usually works well. So after checking edge
distance, I drilled out to the next size and used the next size up rivet
(5/32" if memory serves).
Phil Smith, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
> The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip;
> however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; could
> this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to
> a
> central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I
> had
> failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with
> the
> engine shut down. Thanks.
That last is a happy circumstance: duplication on the ground, engine
off!
The ground would only be suspect, IMO, if there is only a hot line
running out to the power supply, implying they are relying on a frame
ground to complete the curcuit. If there is a two-conductor wire going
out there... well, you should know how you wired the lights. Is there
a hot line to the fuse/circuit breaker and another to a grounding bus?
I'd simply run a wire (externally) from the battery ground out to the
power supplies. You could check continuity with a meter, or just go
ahead and connect the power supply grounds straight to the battery
ground, fire it all up and call a friend for a radio check.
We'll wait with bated breath for the results.
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Wing Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers |
>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8?
>Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep
>putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock
>these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe
>Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other
>suggestions?
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
Von,
Check page 8 of the February issue of your Home Wing newsletter. A fellow
named Sam Knight makes a nice looking cover which he didn't list the price
on. You can call him at 208-342-2602 or e-mail him at cknight(at)mci.net.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
Home Wing
RV-8, #80500, fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
Von, have you checked to insure that both of your wing strobe grounds are
good. One way would be to check the reading at each wing tip or light ground
with an ohm meter. You should get a resistance reading of near zero betweem
the light ground and the metal of the wing and both wing readings should be
the same.
I saw the photo of your RV8 in the May issue of Sport Aviation. Looks Great!
Rollie
RV6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
Mike; As I mentioned, I have one power wire going out to each power
supply on the wingtips, the ground is a local frame ground at the wingtip
rib; Is this likely to be the problem? Why does it only affect the
transmit? Why is the strobe not heard on the radio all the time? Will try
running the ground direct from the battery like you say.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>> The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip;
>> however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip;
>could
>> this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to
>> a
>> central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I
>> had
>> failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with
>> the
>> engine shut down. Thanks.
>
>That last is a happy circumstance: duplication on the ground, engine
>off!
>The ground would only be suspect, IMO, if there is only a hot line
April 29, 1999 - May 06, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gv