RV-Archive.digest.vol-gv

April 29, 1999 - May 06, 1999



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      Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 1999
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. Steven B. Janicki RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Gosh Bob, that photo tutorial is worth ten thousand words. Many thanks! Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A, waiting on the finishing kit -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com] Sent: Thursday, April 29, 1999 6:35 PM To: Stephen J. Soule Subject: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to click on . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire Explaination Needed)
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Yes, I noticed that too. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com] Sent: Thursday, April 29, 1999 6:49 PM To: Stephen J. Soule Subject: Re: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire Explaination Needed) Sorry, Left out the last slash which is important . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/ Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Folding bicycles
If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two Dahon folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a bit goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220. Regards, Bill Mahoney RV-6 N747W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
<< Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. >> Well, the best way is to NOT paint 'em! Get the necessary pattern made up at a local sign shop, take them your rudder, and have it put on at the shop! It's not that hard to do it yourself (you built the entire ship anyway), but it seems to draw the closest inspection. A local shop has the pattern from my rudder, if you want a pattern like that. I recall about $70 installed -- a large amount cheaper than painting! Check six! Mark Frederick Team Rocket Inc Austin, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Sale-Bikes
I have for sale a matched pair of Sekai folding bikes. These are like the Dahons in size (16" wheels) except they are higher quality and ride better. I have had the Dahons before. The Sekai is made in Japan and is a 3-spd. They fold at the middle of the frame, like the Dahon. I have these in storage, they may have a flat tire or two, and probably need minor tune-up and lubrication, but both are in like new condition. Will sell both for $250 to someone who wants to pick them up here in Salem, Oregon. Shipping would be much too expensive for something like this. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: O-360
Date: Apr 30, 1999
You can always block off part of the cooler to get higher temperatures but to lower temperatures when they are too high is more difficult. (Spelled expensive) Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 1:27 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 > >Scott; If I set up my oil cooler for the 'extreme' conditions you >describe, won't I then be running waaay to cool during the normal flights >in normal temps? Isn't this bad for the engine? As I recall Lycoming >recommends an ideal oil temp of 180 degrees, with 245 degrees as >redline. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com > >writes: >> >> >>>Brian; My thoughts exactly; Also don't forget that vibration is the >>>no. 1 >>>cause of oil cooler failures. That is why I mounted the oil cooler on >> >>>the >>>lower center of the firewall on my RV-8, with two 2" scat hoses to >>it, >>>one from each upper baffle. Oil temps are perfect for me so far. I >>>have >>>the cooler mounted close enough to the lower cowling outlet that I >>>should >>> have a 'suction' effect with the outside airstream air helping to >>>'pull' >>>air through the cooler. >>>Von Alexander >>>N41VA(at)juno.com >>> >>Von, >>You may very well be just fine with that installation, but I believe >>you >>have mentioned that the highest OAT at ground level you have yet >>flight >>test with is just short of 80 deg F. >>The difference between 80 F. and 95 F. can be significant. >>Now add to that passenger and payload that will bring you up to gross >>weight. >>This will make you likely climbing at a higher angle of attack and >>possibly a slower airspeed than you are right now while flying solo >>(light). >> >>Now add to this a ground level elevation of 6000 ft MSL at the airport >>you are about to depart in the 95 deg F. temp. (as I am sure everyone >>knows, air is thinner at higher altitudes, so the oil cooling results >>that you get at an airport with a ground level of 200 - 300 ft MSL and >>95 >>deg OAT, will be very different at an airport with a ground elevation >>of >>6000 ft MSL and the same 95 deg. OAT). >>An excepted standard in temp change is about 3 deg. F. per thousand >>ft. >>so the cooling results that you get at 6000 ft and 95 deg would be the >>same as what you have at 200 - 300 ft and 77 deg. F. >> >>I don't know if the cooling ability of air varies in a linier manner >>as >>you climb in altitude (I don't think it does, hopefully others on the >>list can provide an answer), my experience seems to imply that it does >>not. >>Which means that your cooling at higher altitudes will be even worse >>in >>the exact same weight / climb angle off attack situation at a temp >>that >>is adjusted for altitude. >> >>I am only posting this to help builders to think of building their >>airplanes for "every" situation that they may encounter, and to >>suggest >>that until a particular airplane/cooler system has been fully tested >>to >>more of an extreme condition... we really don't know what it will do. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Get some checker board paint???? Seriously, it is quicker to go the a vinyl sign maker and get the desired pattern as an overlay and stick in on the background color of your choice. Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:03 AM Subject: RV-List: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns > >Can someone share with me the best way to paint a checkerboard pattern >on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for suggestions for >taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. > >Steven B. Janicki >RV-4 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
Date: Apr 30, 1999
You can drill hardened anodizing. It tends to crack easier. If you scratch the color layter you can't touch it up very well. Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:04 AM Subject: RV-List: anodize panel instead of paint? > > I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred >to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument >panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I >planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks >better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have never >heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the archives >about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that there >may be some drawbacks to it. > > I spoke with a local anodizing shop. They say 2024 takes a >somewhat darker shade than the 6000 alloys and that it's better not to try >to get a real hard anodize on it. Just as well since I might want to drill >an extra hole or two some where down the road. The panel can be engraved >after anodizing. > > Putting a satin finish on the aluminum before anodizing produces a >really attractive look, though I'm not sure of the best way to do it. The >shop recommended against shot peening and glass beading. They say it tends >to leave too much micro texture and the surface picks up smudges and dirt. >Some finer prep method is desirable. > > If anyone has any experience with this or any arguments pro or con, >I'd appreciate hearing about it. >Thanks, > >--- >Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)Juno.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: removal from list
You will need to follow the directions at the bottom of the page to be removed. Cecil > >pls remove me from the list thank you > List Subscribe/Unsubscribe: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe(unsubscribe) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Tom, I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Please let me know how it turns out. Sylvain Duford RV-8 #47, N130RV reserved Bellevue, WA > > I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred > to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument > panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I > planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks > better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have never > heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the archives > about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that there > may be some drawbacks to it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: IELHAI(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV workshop
I took the sheet metal program for two days before building an RV-8, but learned more after practicing on the kit. There isn't much individual instruction and I'm not sure the instructors are that interested. You will learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing. I don't think it was worth the money or the time. Irv 80110 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: "Dr. Vlasblom" <vlasblom(at)recorder.ca>
Subject: Un-Subscribe
Please, unsubscribe me from your mailing list. Impossible to read it all. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Date: Apr 30, 1999
I highly recommend Henry's workshop in Oregon. There are only four students in the class and you get to make lots of mistakes on the practice kits that Henry Gorgas provides. We did drilling, bending, filing, dimpling, removed rivets, measuring & countersinking, pro-sealing and much more over three days. Not to mention the tips that only having an instructor peering over your shoulder can provide. Phil Smith RV8 80691, left elevator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: parachutes
Craig asked... > Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type? Here is an answer from one who has never had a parachute on! Since no one else answers - doesn't anyone wear a parachute when doing akro?? What I found out after several queries and chatting up riggers and users is that the back pack is right for RV flyers. My *OPINION* from some research: An old military chute for $100 is better than a Mary Poppins unbrella which is better than flapping your arms. But upgrading an old one can get spendy. Many of the akro stars use National products. One that pop open quickly and is light weight seems a good idea. Sport (non-emergency) parachutes should be avoided as emergency chutes. A second seat belt is (sometimes - often - rarely) used in case the main one comes loose while inverted but flying inverted is not fun some say. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things... halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: O-360
> >as you go higher in altitude the temperature drops even though the air >is thinner i would suggest putting the oil cooler in the front l/h >inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in front of the >inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil cooler and >reducing your worry about oil temp at any altitude just a suggestion >from Glenn Williams building tail on rv8-a in FT. worth good luck This is precisely how my oil cooler is mounted on my RV-4. The highest my oil temp has gotten is about 195F on a long climb on a very hot day (OAT 115F at the surface with a long taxi and hold at the runway). CHTs are much more of a concern for me but in the above situation the CHT on #3 only got to 450F. Once I leveled out the CHT came back to 380F and the oil-T came back to 175F. At the other end of the spectrum, my oil temp runs about 160F when OAT is below freezing. I haven't found a need to make any changes between winter and summer. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: parachutes
>Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type? I originally purchased the back-pack type 'chute but it pushed me too close to the panel for comfort so I swapped for a seat type. That worked fine for me. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Folding bicycles
> >If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two Dahon >folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a bit >goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are >available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220. I purchased two of the Dahon folding bikes with the 20" wheels at OSH last year. They work really well and you can get them into any reasonably sized baggage compartment. Unfortunately this excludes the RV-4 but they fit just fine in my other aircraft. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna
> >Ralph Zinkham wrote: > >> Does anyone have an explanation for my getting a continuity reading >> between the center pin and the outer shell of the connector on the >> vor/gs cat wisker Comant antenna ? >> >It's a balanced antenna, and may have a harness that matches the antenna >to the unbalanced coaxial feedline. These can show a short circuit when >checked with an ohm meter, but will work fine at RF. On the other >hand...... This is absolutely correct. Coaxial baluns usually present a short circuit at DC but do the right thing at the appropriate RF. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: parachutes
>Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type? I forgot to add, the seat pack type of chute is more uncomfortable to sit on for long periods of time but my National does have about 1" of temperfoam between me and the chute which may be increased. I plan to do this but haven't gotten around to it. The biggest problem is making a seat pan that is adapted to the seat pack 'chute so that it ends up at the proper height and angle. I have an Oregon Aero seat in my RV-4 but it put me up too high with the 'chute on so I fashioned a small plywood platform to replace the seat. The platform and the 'chute place my butt at correct height. This works out just fine. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Subject: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
Steven B. Janicki wrote: Steven, I saw that several people gave you advice to put vinyl checkers on your rudders. This works well and is eaiser than painting, but nobody really answered you question about how to paint checkers, along with ellipses and semi-cirlces. Let me give it a try. As far as checkers, there are two ways to do it. The first would be to paint the entire rudder with the lighter color. Then you need to figure out the pattern you want. I use a soft pencil (HB) to layout the pattern, try to use a very light touch on the pencil, so it won't scratch the paint and it'll come off with degreaser later. Then run all the vertical lines with 1/4" wide 3M green striping tape, one piece on each side of the line you want to paint. The 1/4" wide will allow you to lay a straight line while still going around the corners well. Try to get the pieces of tape as close together as possible without overlapping. Then run all the horizontal lines in the same fashion. Now you got striping tape all over the place. You then need to press the tape down in places where it goes over another piece of tape, anywhere where paint can bleed underneath. It's time to get out a new razor blade and remove all the tape where you want the checkerboard (the darker color) to go. My favorite technique is to put the edge of the razor blade over the tape where I want to cut it, apply light pressure, then peel the tape up to cut the tape. If you use a good blade and do it right, you can cut the tape without scoring the paint underneath. Now you got a striping tape border everywhere where you want to the light checker to be. Go ahead and use masking tape (I've said this before, use the good 3M 1" wide, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot) and a good masking paper (not newspaper) to protect the light color. Now you should be ready to clean with a good degreaser, like Ditzler DX-330, and prep for painting. Right before painting, go back a press the tape down where it might bleed, using a sharpened tongue depressor, or something like that. After painting, peel up all the tape and see how it looks. If you get a little bleed in some places, use a new and sharp xacto knife and a light touch to scrape it off. If you do it well, you'll never see it. The second way to do it would be to do the above steps for the 1st color and paint, then mask off the color you just painted and then paint the second color. It saves a little weight, but you have to be really careful to lay the tape right on the previously masked line and not have an unpainted, or over painted edge. I wouldn't recommend this for a rookie. As far a painting swoopy curves, it just takes practice. You can layout the pattern you want on a big piece of paper first, then transfer that to the airplane using a pencil. Then it's just an art to get the curves right. For tight curves, I like to use the 3M blue 1/8" wide striping tape. It can really provide some nice curves for you. The normal procedure is lay the tape, see how it looks, take it off and do it again, and again, and again, until you get something you like. Like I said, it can really be an art to do right (that's why professional get the big bucks) but it can be really satisfying to stand back and say that "I did that". Best of luck, and let me know if you have any additional questions. Laird RV-6 N515L Cowling Socal, Whiteman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "toverton" <toverton(at)zapcom.net>
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Tom Generally you get a lot of GLARE off this type of surface (sun coming from over your shoulder). I had this in a race car once and it looked great, but ended up having to paint over it. I would consider a very flat color,(not shiny) or a wrinkle finish. IMHO Tom Overton Top Gun, Calif. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: HIO-360
> The power being proportional to the cube of the speed only applies to fixed > pitch props. And then only in the cruise configuration, I suspect. If RPMs are reduced by 10% in a fixed pitch aircraft in level flight and the aircraft is then put into a climb that fully loads the engine then I would expect that power would be reduced by ROUGHLY 10% also. The formula for power (HP) is HP = PLANk where HP is horsepower and P is BMEP (brake mean effective pressure) - the mean pressure inside the cylinder during the cycle L is the stroke A is the area on top of all pistons N is the RPMs the engine is turning k is just a constant to adjust for measuring in feet or inches etc. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things... halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: parachutes
Just looking at this page: http://www.nationalparachute.com/page2.html shows three back pack chute models #360 for pilots to 177 lbs back is 2" thick at top and 2.5" at bottom. $1145 #425 for pilots to 208 lbs back is 2" thick at top and 3.5" at bottom. $1195 #490 for pilots to 241 lbs back is 2.5" thick at top and 4" at bottom. $1318 they say the back pack gives the most comfort but they have all types. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: O-360
Date: Apr 30, 1999
A photo or two of your installation would be helpful. Do you have a website where you could post that sort of thing? Steve Soule -----Original Message----- I would suggest putting the oil cooler in the front l/h >inlet below it and placing an air dam from .032 just in front of the >inlet to capture ram air forcing this through the oil cooler This is precisely how my oil cooler is mounted on my RV-4. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: John Balbierer <jbalbierer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp) Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color and paint. John Balbierer RV-6, Syracuse, NY --- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote: > > > Can someone share with me the best way to paint a > checkerboard pattern > on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for > suggestions for > taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. > > Steven B. Janicki > RV-4 > > > > > > > The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of > fine Aircraft > Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of > List members. > > > Matronics: > http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: > http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > List Subscribe/Unsubscribe: > http://www.matronics.com/subscribe > Archive Search Engine: > http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > Other Email Lists: > http://www.matronics.com/other > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DenClay(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: rv-8 bolt length
Hi folks. There are four bolts holding the main cabin bulkhead to the floor ribs. Van's calls for #11 (1 3/8 inch long). This requires four washers each to keep the nuts from running down onto the shank. Is this acceptable ? There are no shorter, yet long enough, bolts to substitute. What say ye oh wise ones? Dennis Clay #80473 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
> Hey Dennis, > I went through adding the spring around the exhaust pipe this > winter. I'm > here to tell you that it works. I made several flights on a 20 F day, > with > and without the spring, and it made a dramatic difference in the > amount of > heat I was able to extract from the exhaust. I can't tell you why it > works, > but it does! Check the archives. I think this would be "surface area" :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings == Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved) EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: parachutes
On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > A second seat belt is (sometimes - often - rarely) used in case the main one > comes loose while inverted but flying inverted is not fun some say. > Pulling (or would that be pushing?) G's while inverted I don't know about, but just flying inverted is great. Watching the ground slid past thru the pig canopy was so great on a sample pitts flight, that's what convinced me to build instead of getting an old 172 or something. Haven't yet tried it in the Starduster (still trying to figure out how to land taildragger). Going to be two belts and inverted fuel/oil in my RV. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd wing L.E. 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
John Balbierer wrote: > > > I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the > lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off > the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard > pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp) > Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color > and paint. > > John Balbierer > RV-6, Syracuse, NY > > --- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote: > > > > > > Can someone share with me the best way to paint a > > checkerboard pattern > > on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for > > suggestions for > > taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. > > > > Steven B. Janicki > > RV-4 > > A lot of good suggestions, here is another one and that is the same places that do vinyl lettering can usually do self sticking stencils that can be cut to the design you want and placed on the surface you want to paint then removed after painting. They can either be done as a mask for the part you don't want to paint or as a mask for the surrounding area leaving open the part you do want to paint. I helped a friend do this on his Lancair and it worked great. Jerry Springer RV-6 First flight 7/14/89|Hillsboro,OR|jsflyrv(at)teleport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Heads up on -6 overhead rudder pedal weldment
Scott R McDaniels wrote: > > > > > >The only rudder pedal tube failures I have heard of here at LVK are on > > > >taildraggers. I think that there is more force put on the taildragger > >pedals > >than on the trigears. Another theory is that pilots were pushing on > >the > >pedals to help them get up out of the seat. > > > >-GV > > > - > >From what I have seen this is as likely (and maybe more so) to be a > problem with RV-6A's as it is with 6's. > Many pilots new to an RV-6A are not accustomed to flying an airplane that > has a free castoring nose wheel. They sometimes get in the habit of > using the brakes to steer a lot more than necessary. > What ends up happening is the pilot is pushing hard on both peddles > putting a lot of load on both. To add a little to what Gary and Scott are saying, I have the old style floor mount pedals in my RV-6 and several years ago there was a mod for them because people had broke them. I still have not updated mine and have not had problems in ten years of flying, but I am very aware of how hard I push on the pedals. The most damage can be done trying to hold brakes while doing run ups IMO. Jerry Springer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns
Date: Apr 30, 1999
You can also get vinyl paint masks laid out by a sign maker. Lay it on, press down the edges, paint and remove. Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: John Balbierer <jbalbierer(at)yahoo.com> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 3:28 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patterns > >I painted a checkerboard on my tail. If it's 2 colors, 1st paint the >lighter of the 2 on the whole surface you want covered. Then mask off >the whole area after the paint is dry. Then cut the checkerboard >pattern lightly with a razor.(use many razors and keep them sharp) >Next, remove the area of the pattern you want to paint the 2nd color >and paint. > >John Balbierer >RV-6, Syracuse, NY > >--- "Steven B. Janicki" wrote: >> >> >> Can someone share with me the best way to paint a >> checkerboard pattern >> on the Rudder of an aircraft? I am also looking for >> suggestions for >> taping and painting elipse and semi-circle patterns. >> >> Steven B. Janicki >> RV-4 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of >> fine Aircraft >> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of >> List members. >> >> >> Matronics: >> http://www.matronics.com >> RV-List: >> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list >> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe: >> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe >> Archive Search Engine: >> http://www.matronics.com/search >> Archive Browsing: >> http://www.matronics.com/archives >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> Other Email Lists: >> http://www.matronics.com/other >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge. Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then by all means join just to meet people with like interests. Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit -----Original Message----- From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > . You will >learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing> >Irv 80110 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 30 Apr 1999 22":04:01.-0000(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-8 Bolt lengths
Date: Apr 30, 1999
I accidently deleted the queston about a -11 bolt being to long for an application, but I want to answer it anyway. A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches, not 1 and 3/8 inches long. The first digit is inches, the second digit is eighths. If yu don't have a AN Hardware reference handy, check EAA hapter 1000's web page http://www.eaa1000.av.org/refernce/ an3_18a.htm to see why there is no such thing as a -18 bolt. Hope this helps Miles Bowen Tehachapi, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Fellow Listers: I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect). Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim using the landing gear fairings. What say you? Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: gott(at)noao.edu (Shelby Gott)
Subject: Primer fittings
Ted; You need AN-800-2 "union cones", also available from ACS. They are to be soldered to the 1/8" tubes. Don't use compression ferrules, they'll cause the tube to break due to vibration at the point where the the tube is compressed. Shelby Gott Tucson, AZ RV8 wings >From: "The French's" <french@mag-net.com> >I am about to install my primer fittings and associated hardware. Upon >looking closely at my fittings, which I bought from ACS, I am puzzled about >the connection to the fitting. The fitting itself is slightly concave where >the 1/8" tube fits, and the tube slides into the fitting about 3/8 to 1/2 >in. I have compression ferrules which would appear to fit to the fitting, >but the nut which holds all this together has a square shoulder which bears >down on the ferrule. This shoulder has a fairly sharp edge. Is this the way >this assy is designed or should the nut have a tapered shoulder to help >compress the ferrule. My feeling is that it should be tapered so the ferrule >will compress onto the tube. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Date: Apr 30, 1999
I'm not so sure about the "most" part. In our Chap 790 (northwestern suburbs of Chicago) we have about 8 RVs being built or flying and several dozen projects of all types. We have very knowledgeable flight advisors, technical advisors and all sorts of experts on everything that flys! do not archive Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:03 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > >Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs >with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge. >Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I >belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of >volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then >by all means join just to meet people with like interests. > >Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit > >-----Original Message----- >From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > > >> >. You will >>learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing> >>Irv 80110 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Sorry to hear that. But you can change the process by getting involved. Try having a project review. Get other's that have a project one the back burner to show everyone what it is all about. Might the builder re-inspired. Invite members for a ride in your home built. Have your chapter start a "tool library" We have over 200 different tools, for loan as well as electronic scales for W&B. Our Chapter 75 is only about 90 local members while the area around us has about 500 people that belong to the national EAA. We sent our Flight Advisor to Oshkosh for a workshop. Paid his way. Since you are a builder, volunteer to be a Tech Counselor. In a way your are right, but the questions I would ask are... Does your Chapter have a Tech Counselor? Does it have a Flight Advisor? Is there a Chapter tool library? -----Original Message----- From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > >Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs >with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge. >Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I >belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of >volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then >by all means join just to meet people with like interests. > >Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit > >-----Original Message----- >From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > > >> >. You will >>learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing> >>Irv 80110 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel pump fittings source, etc.
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Listers, I thought I would replace the rather tired looking flare fittings on the fuel pump today whilst working away on various engine stuff. I took a short trip down to the Parker Fitting store, and, lo and behold, they have EXACTLY the fittings needed. These are the captive O-ring/washer/non-pipethread type fittings that the AN fuel pump requires. They are steel, and have 37 degree flare on the other end. They are available in 90 and 45 degree elbow configuration but I don't recall seeing any straight ones. Oh well, I was in a hurry...they probably exist. So, if you need some of these, check out Parker first, to save yourself some UPS time and shipping costs. They were about $4 each. Now, some questions: For all fuel primer, fuel pressure and manifold pressure lines, I plan to use 1/8" copper tubing. Now, should those tiny-orifice special primer fittings be used on BOTH ends of EVERY tube? I have a wet-type fuel pressure/manifold pressure gauge. (Yeah, I know....YIKES! fuel in the cockpit. Hey, it's been done since the golden ages). The Parker store has 1/8" brass compression fittings that seem like they would work, after maybe filling them with solder, then drilling a tiny hole. Will this work? Or, is it asking for trouble? Thanks folks, Brian Denk RV8 N94BD engine systems, exhaust, etc, etc. Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Checkerboard and Other Patte
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Hi All: One last point on masking/painting checkers or whatever. A slick way to eliminate bleed-through under your green 3M masking tape is to hit the area you are painting with a LIGHT coat of clear prior to applying the color coat. This will effectively seal the edge of the masking tape and leave you with a perfect sharp color edge. I must emphasize a light coat of clear here so as to not leave a pronounced ridge at the color line. An Old trick from my RC modeling days and works like a charm. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A 25171 left wing tank Peshtigo, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com>
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
> While this is a free country and all are entitled to their own opinions, the > opinions might fly in the face of fact. Engineers who know thermodynamics know > the facts regarding the movement of heat in such situations like oil coolers and > heat muffs etc. Thermodynamics is a very complex field and it gave me bad > headaches in college so I don't feel qualified to offer anything, but maybe > someone will step forward and help us with some of these common questions. Or, > if you know someone who could help - maybe not even a builder - get him/her > involved. > > > A lot of folks believe that in order to get more heated air thru a heat muff, > IMO to get more usable heated air, you must slow the air down The goal of the heater is not to maximize heat input into the cabin, but rather to bring the cabin temperature to some comfortable level - these are not the same thing. To understand this, consider two extremes. Imagine first a greatly exaggerated air flow through the exchanger and into the cabin. This would be the maximum heat input into the cabin (most heat removed from the exhaust); unfortunately the heated air temperature would be too low to be comfortable. On the other extreme, a very small air flow would result in one's feet being extremely hot, while the aft cabin would be cold. Clearly, something in the middle is optimum - trial and error is in order. The coiled spring's function in this case is to cause turbulent flow throught the exchanger, effectively bringing more "cool" air molecules closer to the hot pipe. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths
> A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches, Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is 0.964 inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long. It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things... halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. '65 Debonair N6134V @ SJC For Sale $80K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-4 Oil Cooling
Hi gang, My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has been pegged all winter and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and early spring. The cooler is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch clearance between the cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is only a 2' dia. scat tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy. Its fine. OK, OK...so I blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of aluminum just to see the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50 degree OAT), the Oil Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past weekend with the OAT at 70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!! I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there is so little room for error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a controllable door to the scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read failsafe) design. Any good, proven ideas out there? Thanks in advance. Louis Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ larywil(at)home.com (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad?
Date: Apr 30, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 12:50 AM Subject: RV-List: B&C Battery experience?Good or Bad? > >Anyone out there using the BC103-1 (12AH) or BC 14-1 (17 AH). I've heard >from a Lancair 4 builder that they did not get very good life mounted on the >engine side of the firewall. One RV6 builder raves about the 12AH one >cranking his O-360 VFR machine. Does anyone know why the 12 AH costs $120 and >the 17 AH costs $84? > >Anyone have a neat installation of their fuseholder where it is easy to get >to and change fuses or trouble shoot? > >Bernie Kerr, RV6A engine and panel, S E FLA > Bernie: I have been using a 17AH B &C battery on my RV-4 with a 160HP 9:1 cr engine. The battery is located in the standard -4 location, that is, between the pilots feet in a tray on the forward floor. It is now more than 5 years old with approx 400 hours and I don't know how many starts and recently, after sitting idle for several weeks, it started the engine even though it took extra effort. That was because I primed the engine incorrectly. The starter is a B &C also and the cables are #2 size with the ground connecting the engine case to the firewall with a 3/8" brass bolt and thence to the battery. It has never failed a start. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
Several follow ups on this topic contain good information from skilled experimenters and reasoning engineers. Cool! My old Debonair has in its heat muff a number of outrageously expensive screws. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
Date: Apr 30, 1999
I advised Van's about the higher new gear leg, and they responded that if possible they would put something in the next RVAtor regarding the thinking behind the new design. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
Louis, Van's plans which are supplied with the firewall mounted oil cooler kit show a trap door type flap on the bottom (outflow) side of the oil cooler. I'm not sure what system on any aircraft is really "fail-safe" Bill Pagan N565BW(Reserved) Youngstown, OH "The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html > >Hi gang, > > >My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has been pegged all winter >and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and early spring. The cooler >is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch clearance between the >cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is only a 2' dia. scat >tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy. Its fine. OK, OK...so I >blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of aluminum just to see >the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50 degree OAT), the Oil >Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past weekend with the OAT at >70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!! > >I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there is so little room for >error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a controllable door to the >scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read failsafe) design. Any >good, proven ideas out there? >Thanks in advance. > >Louis > > > >Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ >larywil(at)home.com >(610) 668-4964 >Philadelphia, PA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
louis: this is a suggestion that may work for you as I have seen this work for an rv-6 recently place the oil coller in front of #3 cylinder right below the inlet from the cowl and make an air dam from .032 aluminum to capture ram air and force it through the coller and make sure your oil pressure is not too high or the cooler will not cool the oil because of too high of volume passing through to quick to cool the oil. good luck from Glenn Williams building RV8A in ft worth TEXAS a&p technician --- Louis Willig wrote: > > > Hi gang, > > > My -4 always runs too cold. The Oil Temp needle has > been pegged all winter > and just barely gets off the peg in the fall and > early spring. The cooler > is mounted against the firewall with only 1 inch > clearance between the > cooler and the firewall, and the cooling source is > only a 2' dia. scat > tube. The Temp gauge has been checked for accuracy. > Its fine. OK, OK...so I > blocked off half of the 2" dia. scat with a piece of > aluminum just to see > the results. Great!! On the first flight (on a 50 > degree OAT), the Oil > Temp needle is a perfect 180-185. B U T, this past > weekend with the OAT at > 70 deg., the Oil Temp is 220-230 deg. Not Great!! > > I kind'a knew this was going to happen, since there > is so little room for > error on a system this sensitive. What I need is a > controllable door to the > scat tube, but I have not seen a satisfactory (read > failsafe) design. Any > good, proven ideas out there? > Thanks in advance. > > Louis > > > > Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ > larywil(at)home.com > (610) 668-4964 > Philadelphia, PA > > > > > > The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of > fine Aircraft > Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of > List members. > > > Matronics: > http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: > http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > List Subscribe/Unsubscribe: > http://www.matronics.com/subscribe > Archive Search Engine: > http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > Other Email Lists: > http://www.matronics.com/other > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel?
Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all. Now, do I put them in series or in parallel? I understand there is a valve in the fact pumps, but I understood from Tracy Crook's experience that you can't count on that valve closing completely (allows some reverse flow). That's a strike against parallel configuration.. What is the failure mode of the facet pumps? Do (or can) they block the flow when they fail? If so, that would be a strike against series configuration.. Finn (RV-3 - waiting for prop, mounting wing tips) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: parachutes
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Today I purchased a Softy Backpack style chute with a 26' canopy. I'm a short guy 5'6" and the pack's size and position were expectable I'm perhaps 1/2" too close to the panel, but I can deal. Mostly what I didn't expect was the awkward hunched over feeling I got. On the one hour trip home my back ached from the awkward position my spine was forced into from the lack of contours on the pack. I believe 1/2" of comfort foam in the lower back will solve this problem. Bruce Meacham ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 11:29 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: parachutes > > >Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type? > > I forgot to add, the seat pack type of chute is more uncomfortable to sit > on for long periods of time but my National does have about 1" of > temperfoam between me and the chute which may be increased. I plan to do > this but haven't gotten around to it. > > The biggest problem is making a seat pan that is adapted to the seat pack > 'chute so that it ends up at the proper height and angle. I have an Oregon > Aero seat in my RV-4 but it put me up too high with the 'chute on so I > fashioned a small plywood platform to replace the seat. The platform and > the 'chute place my butt at correct height. This works out just fine. > > > Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies > brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 > http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 > +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Flap relays
The French's wrote: > > > Check out http://hamgate2.netbistro.com/~french/ > > I have a system I have built for my 6A. which use 2 relays for flap > positioning, and 2 more for trim adjustment. > Ted > Prince George BC > > When I try to view the drawing for this system, I get the web source code and no drawing. Anyone else having that problem?? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
From: "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com>
Louis, I'm using Van's mounting kit on the firewall. I put a cable-operated trap door on the bottom that covers the entire outlet of the cooler. The failure mode (I hope) is that if the cable breaks, the door falls fully open. Since I've been flying only since last November my experience has been solely with winter/spring temperatures. With the door fully closed, my oil temps will stay above 180F/82C down to an OAT of -5C. Bob Hall, RV-6 Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel?
From: "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com>
> >Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all. > >Now, do I put them in series or in parallel? My hangar mate is using two facet pumps on his RV-4 with an O320H2AD. Initially he set them up in series. During his testing he found that the output pressure to the carb with both pumps running was over 10psi which was in excess of the max pressure spec for his carb( 8psi as I recall). So, he put them in parallel. Bob Hall, RV6 N976RH Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: O-360 / Oil temp problems
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
> >Scott; If I set up my oil cooler for the 'extreme' conditions you >describe, won't I then be running waaay to cool during the normal >flights >in normal temps? Isn't this bad for the engine? As I recall Lycoming >recommends an ideal oil temp of 180 degrees, with 245 degrees as >redline. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com > It is possible that you would but not necessarily. That is partially what the vernatherm valve is for, but it can only regulate a much narrower range than the extremes. My personal choice would be to have a system that would keep the oil temp at about 230 or so in a more extreme condition as I described in my other post. This would be considered normal in extreme conditions. And as long as it is manageable and not out of control an airplane that operates this way should probably be left alone. Now if you push to 230 after doing 3 T&Go's in 85 deg temp at a 2500 ft elevation airport... then you probably should consider making some changes to your oil cooling system. The main thrust of my orig. post was that having oil temps that stay right on 180 while doing low powered touch and goes at 80 degrees doesn't say anything about what the temps may be at 95 deg and 7500 feet clawing your way out of the canyon at Greely (spell?) Colorado on your way to OSH in July. It is also of no use to suggest an oil cooler installation that works well on an RV-4 will also work great on an RV-6, or 6A, or etc. As I have mentioned before...Each model is different. RV-4's have always had a history of cooling very well. Too well in some airplanes. So what works well in an RV-4 can't be assumed will work well in something else. It might, but it might not. If you want the most efficient oil cooling (from my experiences, maybe not others) is to mount a cooler on the aft baffle directly behind the # 4 cyl. Second best seems to be on the left baffle inlet ramp in front of the # 2 cyl. It requires longer oil lines which are routed below the #2 and #4 cyl which means they have heated air blowing on them all the time. For this reason the must have fire sleaving installed on them (for safety they should have it anyway). Least effective has always seemed to be remote mounted with a hose providing the air source. Bottom line is that what ever you do, the first time you raise an eyebrow at the oil temp gage should not be some where a long ways from home. It should be discovered and dealt with during flight testing. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
>I advised Van's about the higher new gear leg, and they responded that >if >possible they would put something in the next RVAtor regarding the >thinking >behind the new design. > > I don't know who you spoke with, but there is nothing else to tell about the new nose gear leg. I spoke with my co-worker Ken Krueger (guy who designed the new gear leg) this morning. Dimensionally the new gear leg is exactly the same as the old one. We could think of 3 variables that could make the airplane sit at a slightly different angle. The first 2 are quite possible (though we doubt that even together they could account for a hight change of 4 - 5 inches at the horiz. stab as someone mentioned) the third we don't think is very likely but since we haven't done any measuring of our own it is possible. # 1 - It is possible the new leg is replacing one that was slightly bent. A number of them have been found to be bent slightly when the old one has been received to use as a guide for match drilling. # 2 - Their is a +/- mfr tolerance on the bend at the fwd bottom of the gear leg of .5 Deg. This can cause a slight variation in the castor angle of the nose wheel fork which could raise (or lower) the nose very slightly. # 3 - (This is thought to be highly unlikely but possible) The new gear leg has a different diameter profile (it is larger in diam at each end than in the middle, the orig leg was constant diam.) than the old leg. It is possible that at rest (static) it doesn't deflect as much as the old leg did. To clear up any concerns... There was no overall dimension change made to the gear leg. When laid side by side with an old one the over all dimensions should be nearly identical. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
>I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring >around >the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff". - Me also, but for a different reason. I know of a # of instances in RV's were this was done, and over a period of time with the spring vibrating slightly it caused thin slots to be worn right through the exhaust pipe. If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have an item to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for wear. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It >occurred >to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the >instrument >panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what >I >planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks >better than paint and it's not real expensive (about $45). I have >never >heard any one suggest doing this, though. There's nothing in the >archives >about anodizing instead of painting. This makes me suspicious that >there >may be some drawbacks to it. > It hasn't ever been publicized much but the RV-8A prototype (58VA) has a black anodized panel. It was done while doing work for our wiring harness kit (anyone out there install one of them yet, I would like to get some feed back?) and planning for possibly offering complete panel / instrument / avionics packages some day. It was run through a fine grit "time saver" surfacing machine and then black anodized. It has been holding up well so far. One caution is that there are apparently many different quality levels of anodizing and slight variations in the processes. Some anodized aluminum parts I have seen have not held up well from exposure to the sun (U.V. maybe?) the color begins to fade after a while, and it doesn't do it evenly, so it begins to get blotchy. So far the black RV-8A panel is holding up well (now one year old, with about 300 hrs on it). Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Hunter" <ozzy(at)better.net.au>
Subject: Light Speed Ignition & lyc warranty
Date: May 01, 1999
Listeners, A few weeks back a post cautioned us about Lyc standing by their warranty if you fit the LSI system.As I am installing a new 320 from Vans & LSI I wrote to Lyc with this concern. ( understand that here in AUS the home built category requires a certified engine/ prop all to be maintained by a Licensed engineer plus an engineering approval to fit the LSI ). Lyc has just replied to the effect that their warranty will stand providing your claim cannot be sheeted home to any defect caused by the LSI system.Sounds to me like another lawyer fest potential . For your info'. Brian-- RV-6 finishing kit & canopy fun. Southport QLD Australia. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins
I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price of $870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He is hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I guess he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later! :>) AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a competive item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and reduce the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts. Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: New LRI Quantity Buy Offer
Gentlemen, In light of the AOA quantity buy that was recently offered on "The List" I have received several inquiries about the LRI (Lift Reserve Indicator) OFF-List, and whether or not I could get the quantity buy offer that I had previously done for RV builders. I have spoken to Bill Geipel (owner of LRI) again and he has generously given me permission to make the offer to RV builders once again. Below are the details. Listers, I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals) together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for $770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00 (cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $20.00/unit. That is a savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater and $15.00 in shipping for a total possible savings of $123.00 or 14%. This price would be cash or check. For Credit Cards add 3%. If you wish to see more about the LRI go to: http://www.lift reserve.com/ I will be handling the details of the shipment again so please contact me at: prober(at)iwaynet.net or call me at (614) 890-6301 Eastern Std. Time I will once again collect all the money and send Bill one check. If you want references for this deal I can give you 9 other guys and myself who participated in the last deal. You can contact me OFF-List about this and PLEASE...... LET'S NOT START THE "WHICH INDICATOR IS BETTER" AND "WHETHER OR NOT WE NEED ONE OF THESE"....... DEBATES AGAIN ! Thanks...AL ( I have no connection to the LRI company or Bill Geipel other than this offer to RV builders.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: comparing hand held transcievers
Date: May 01, 1999
Lucky, You may want to check out AVWEB.COM they had a review on Hand helds not to long ago. I think it was under the avionics section. Chuck Rowbotham Rv-8A QB Niantic, CT Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins
Date: May 01, 1999
Bernie, Just rec'd our PSS Pro system. The workmanship is great. It was a strech but I feel it's well worth the $$, from both a safety and quality point of view. I evaluated the other systems and PSS's AOA was the hands down winner. The difficult question was which of their systems to go with: Pro or Sport. We chose the Pro based on expanded data points (32 vs 8) and the fact that it had the donut in landing configuration. Good Building, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A QB Niantic, CT *********************** >From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins >Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 05:31:04 EDT > > >I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large >offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price >of >$870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He >is >hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I >guess >he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later! >:>) > >AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a >competive >item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and >reduce >the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts. > >Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA > > > > > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: New LRI Quantity Buy Offer
Sorry, I messed up that URL. (Darn spell check!) AL > >Gentlemen, > >In light of the AOA quantity buy that was recently offered on "The List" I >have received several inquiries about the LRI (Lift Reserve Indicator) >OFF-List, and whether or not I could get the quantity buy offer that I had >previously done for RV builders. I have spoken to Bill Geipel (owner of >LRI) again and he has generously given me permission to make the offer to >RV builders once again. Below are the details. > >Listers, >I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him >what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals) >together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for >$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He >said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00 >(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $20.00/unit. That >is a savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater >and $15.00 in shipping for a total possible savings of $123.00 or 14%. This >price would be cash or check. For Credit Cards add 3%. If you wish to see >more about the LRI go to: > > http://www.liftreserve.com/ > >I will be handling the details of the shipment again so please contact me at: > > prober(at)iwaynet.net or call me at (614) 890-6301 Eastern Std. Time > >I will once again collect all the money and send Bill one check. If you >want references for this deal I can give you 9 other guys and myself who >participated in the last deal. You can contact me OFF-List about this and >PLEASE...... LET'S NOT START THE "WHICH INDICATOR IS BETTER" AND "WHETHER >OR NOT WE NEED ONE OF THESE"....... DEBATES AGAIN ! >Thanks...AL ( I have no connection to the LRI company or Bill Geipel >other than this offer to RV builders.) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: parachutes
Date: May 01, 1999
>1/2" too close to the panel, but I can deal. Mostly what I didn't expect >was the awkward hunched over feeling I got. On the one hour trip home my >back ached from the awkward position my spine was forced into from the lack >of contours on the pack. I believe 1/2" of comfort foam in the lower back >will solve this problem. > My Softie (from glider days) has foam between my back and the canopy. The foam has a groove for the spine. At the time I bought this chute I believe that was an option. I always found this backpack chute to be very comfortable for cockpit times up to 6 1/2 hours. I do think this would be very individual and also would have a lot to do with how the seat is set up. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q N441LP New FAA inspection date 5/14 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
Date: May 01, 1999
Has anyone tried an oil thermostat on an RV? I have used these on race cars. They consist of a lightweight aluminum diecasting with four AN fittings that are spliced into the oil cooler lines. When cold, a bypass path is open from one side to the other. The flow to the cooler is not blocked, it's just that the majority of the oil takes the path of least resistance and bypasses the cooler. The bypass begins closing at about 160F and is completely closed at 180F. I liked the fact that you can get the oil temperature up very quickly and then if you have enough cooling capacity, the temperature never varies by more than a few degrees. They use a very dependable "waxstat" element. I never heard of one failing. They are available with AN8, AN10, AN12 and AN16 fittings for $83 or $93 depending on size from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, 1-800-688-6946 or http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ (a free catalog is available). Pegasus also sells cheaper oil thermostats with hose nipples but I would not recommend them because of smaller internal passages. Chris Heitman Dousman WI Still trying to decide which RV to build -----Original Message----- >My -4 always runs too cold. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths
Date: Apr 30, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com> > > > A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches, > > Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is 0.964 inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long. > > It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure. > > > Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things... I couldn't find the bolts you found in the ACS catalog, but the point is that a -11 is not 1&3/8, and a -20 is not 2&1/2. It's always a good idea to look up or measure the grip length to be sure it fits your application. Miles Bowen Tehachapi, CA Fitting counterbalance skin on right elevator.> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: comparing hand held transcievers
Icom is the standard and is of highest quality. I think there was a write up concerning the Yaesu vs. the Icom and the Icom had much better transmit receive capability at distances beyond 10 miles. I have had an Icom for years with no problems and use it in my Kitfox as my main radio and it works as well as a King panel mount. What do you need VOR for?? Obsolete!! I never have used that capability on my Icom and would not want it if I bought another. Garmin 90 outperforms any VOR and while the Icom VOR does work why would I want to use that? In my RV4 when it is finally done there will be a panel mount radio and a handheld for back up and a Garmin ?? handheld GPS set into a console or armrest such that it is easily removable for on ground navigation--I get lost at Oshkosh. Love them handhelds. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: comparing hand held transcievers--more
On my Icom there is a charging jack and an external power jack which can be used for operation with or without the battery pack in place. Perhaps the cheaper versions do not have this feature. Something to look into for sure. Also there is an intercom made by Design Tech that is designed to operate with the Icom handhelds and works great. For good performance in an aircraft you need the intercom and an external antenna maybe with a splitter or a patch cord or something like that if used as a backup to a panel radio. One thing I have found lately is that my Icom has much better tx/rx with my new Lightspeed headset than with the old junkie Softcoms.JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: comparing hand held transcievers
In a message dated 5/1/99 8:50:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes: << Anyone compared the new new yaesu, icom and sportys hand helds models capable of vor/cdi to each other and have an opinion which is the best? >> You may want to find a copy of the January 1999 Aviation Consumer. They have a comprative review on the Uaesu VXA-100, the Icom IC-A22, and Sporty's JD-200. This publication is one of the few that provides a truely objective review. Rick McBride Off to NJ tomorrow to inprocess Albanian refugees. I'm so thrilled! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
> > >>I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring >>around >>the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff". >Me also, but for a different reason. >I know of a # of instances in RV's were this was done, and over a period >of time with the spring vibrating slightly it caused thin slots to be >worn right through the exhaust pipe. >If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have an item >to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for >wear. > > >Scott McDaniels Scott and RVers I am 95% sure that the heat muff spring works because the airflow is slowed down and has time to absorb heat energy before flowing into the cockpit. 200 cubic ft,/min at 80 deg is actually far less effective than 50 cubic ft./min at 180 deg. A great solution to the spring problem is to replace it with stainless steel sponges ( a very coarse form of steel wool used in most restaurants and bakeries) It is cheap -$5 will be enough for two aircraft- and will not destroy the exhaust pipe. You can use more or less of it as you please to get the proper flow and heat absorption. Also, unlike the spring, this stuff has a greater contact with the exhaust pipe and works by both slowing down the air flow as well as by presenting more hot surface area to the airflow. Of course, now that spring/Summer is approaching, the cooling problem will be revisited. I am still not sure of the safety of placing stick-on shades inside of the RV-4 canopy. Will something melt? Louis Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ larywil(at)home.com (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: comparing hand held transcievers
Date: May 01, 1999
my vote is for the icom handheld....portable ....inexpensive....no licence fee...works excellent ....never used the vor either.too small to read used mine for years to ferry a/c across the country , as a backup , as a main radio i had that icom a20 and a lowrance handheld gps .in my rocket...thats all i needed....marty -----Original Message----- From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com <JRWillJR(at)aol.com> Date: Saturday, 01 May 1999 11:20 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: comparing hand held transcievers > >Icom is the standard and is of highest quality. I think there was a write up >concerning the Yaesu vs. the Icom and the Icom had much better transmit >receive capability at distances beyond 10 miles. I have had an Icom for years >with no problems and use it in my Kitfox as my main radio and it works as >well as a King panel mount. What do you need VOR for?? Obsolete!! I never >have used that capability on my Icom and would not want it if I bought >another. Garmin 90 outperforms any VOR and while the Icom VOR does work why >would I want to use that? In my RV4 when it is finally done there will be a >panel mount radio and a handheld for back up and a Garmin ?? handheld GPS set >into a console or armrest such that it is easily removable for on ground >navigation--I get lost at Oshkosh. Love them handhelds. JR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
In a message dated 5/1/99 7:57:29, cjh(at)execpc.com writes: Has anyone tried an oil thermostat on an RV? I have used these on race cars. They consist of a lightweight aluminum diecasting with four AN fittings that are spliced into the oil cooler lines. When cold, a bypass path is open from one side to the other. The flow to the cooler is not blocked, it's just that the majority of the oil takes the path of least resistance and bypasses the cooler. The bypass begins closing at about 160F and is completely closed at 180F. I liked the fact that you can get the oil temperature up very quickly and then if you have enough cooling capacity, the temperature never varies by more than a few degrees. They use a very dependable "waxstat" element. I never heard of one failing. They are available with AN8, AN10, AN12 and AN16 fittings for $83 or $93 depending on size from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, 1-800-688-6946 or http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/ (a free catalog is available). Pegasus also sells cheaper oil thermostats with hose nipples but I would not recommend them because of smaller internal passages.>> This sounds like an exact duplicate of the vernatherm in my Lycoming. It is precisely the way I've been told that it works, and matches the way it looks to be working to me. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Derek Reed wrote: > > > Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs > with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge. > Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I > belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of > volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then > by all means join just to meet people with like interests. > > Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit > Amen, Tallahassee's EAA Chapter is just that, a social club. Last year thier annual fly-in had 8 planes show up. I went to one meeting, told them I was building an RV and could use all the help I could get, they stared at me like I was from another plant. Not one member ever came by my hangar, even after the plane was finished. In fact there are 4 builders in Tallahassee and not one is a member. However, I do know most EAA chapters are not like this. Maybe one day I'll live in an aera with a strong Chapter. Craig Hiers Tallahassee,FL. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Canopy Latch Protection
Date: May 01, 1999
My RV-3 sports a beutifully clean one piece canopy and I wouldn't have it any other way. But I'm scared to death that I'll accidentally nudge the "per-plans" duel canopy latch machanism while folding charts. There's a "taxi latch", but there's no way the peg will find that little whole without my help. I have a friend who's father died from this very cause. I'm looking for a clean and elligant solution. Either a backup latch or a latch lock for the current design. Bruce Meacham ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins
Date: May 01, 1999
I too am interested in the AOA gauge. It's not TSO'd and I looked up the price of the parts, they're like pennies. It's just an IC with a sensor and few light bulbs. Wow you can sure make a killing if you just out thunk somone. I'm contemplating making my own. I took double-e for dummies in college and I think I can get away with it. It would make a good experiment anyway. If anyone else is intested in helping please e-mail me directly. Bruce Meacham ----- Original Message ----- From: <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 2:31 AM Subject: RV-List: A O A Quantity Buy Stalls and Spins > > I received word today that PSS was not interested in a discounted large > offer. He honored the deal that he would sell us 3 units at SNF show price of > $870 which we took, but were disappointed that we could not do better. He is > hard over apparently and says there will be a price increase in June. I guess > he wants to trade his Lancair 320 for a pressurised 4 sooner than later! :>) > > AOA is nice safety feature in my mind, hope someone comes up with a competive > item that is low enough priced that many people will install them and reduce > the stall spin fatality rate in homebuilts. > > Bernie Kerr, 6A panel, SE FLA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
Date: May 01, 1999
Thanks for the info, Scott. BUT, there is something going on her that is strange. I am going to ask RV-listers who have an RV-6A to measure the height of the horizontal stabilizer above the floor, out at the tip where the aluminum meets the fiberglass fairing, right at the leading edge. Please, if you can, measure it and state if you have the "old" or the new, stronger, nose gear leg. I am going to assume that variations in fuel on board, tire inflation, and other loading will produce some minor variations, but I am trying to account for the major change when I installed the new gear leg. I have a large photo above me of my RV-6A; the "N" number was attached using a level to get it even with the ground in static position. That "N" number now slants aft to forward very noticeably. I really do not think my old nose gear was bent, but something is going on. From other responses I have noted on the RV-list, I am not alone in this. Let's see if we can figure out what is going on. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths
Date: May 01, 1999
There are two ways of measuring. Overall length and grip length. On your example, I think you have an overall length from one place and a grip length from the other. That is where you have to be careful as both are used. Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: M. Bowen <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:53 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Bolt lengths > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com> >> >> > A -11 bolt is 1 and 1/8 inches, >> >> Often, but not always! Here is one in the ACS cataalog - a -11 that is >0.964 inches long and a -20 that is 1.526 inches long. >> >> It seems almost as if we are being forced to look them up to be sure. >> >> >> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Hangar H-4 at SCK - Connecting things... > > >I couldn't find the bolts you found in the ACS catalog, but the point is >that a -11 is not 1&3/8, and a -20 is not 2&1/2. It's always a good idea to >look up or measure the grip length to be sure it fits your application. > >Miles Bowen >Tehachapi, CA >Fitting counterbalance skin on right elevator.> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
Date: May 01, 1999
I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor. At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the fiberglass fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16" I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new RV-6A nose gear leg equipped planes. I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear. Thank you if you can give me your measurements. RV-6A Flying Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
Date: May 01, 1999
> stuff about springs on mufflers snipped>>>> > >Of course, now that spring/Summer is approaching, the cooling problem will >be revisited. I am still not sure of the safety of placing stick-on shades >inside of the RV-4 canopy. Will something melt? > >Louis > > > > > >Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ >larywil(at)home.com >(610) 668-4964 >Philadelphia, PA > As for your question about stick-on shades melting something- - - - - YES, it can. A friend of mine in Las Vegas purchased an RV-6 that had that kind of shade on the top of his canopy. He left his RV parked in the sun for a few hours and when he came back found that the top of his canopy had 'sagged' about 1" in the area of the shade. Granted, it was a very hot day as it often is in LV but it does show that there is a downside to using those shades. Possibly, even probably, if he had left his canopy open a few inches it wouldn't have gotten that hot. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
> I'm planning a yellow airplane with metallic blue trim. It occurred >to me that I could have a blue interior and blue anodize the instrument >panel instead of painting it. The color would be about right for what I >planned and it does harden and protect the aluminum. I think it looks Ouch! Having studied airplane instrument panels extensively, let me strongly encourage you to color your panel something drab and unoffensive. The instrument panel really has to be functional, and giving it bright colors is the wrong thing to do. Ed Wischmeyer * Designed 60 instrument panels for customers of an instrument shop * several hundred slides taken of homebuilt panels * RV panel written up in October 83 (I think) Sport Aviation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Flap relays
jerry calvert wrote: > > I have a system I have built for my 6A. which use 2 relays for flap > > positioning, and 2 more for trim adjustment. > When I try to view the drawing for this system, I get the web source > code and no drawing. Anyone else having that problem?? I saw the same thing... go to <http://hamgate2.netbistro.com/~french/flaps.gif> to see the drawing. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: comparing hand held transcievers
In a message dated 5/1/99 5:27:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes: << ha, great! I just started getting that magazine two months ago! Just my luck. Care to give us the reader's digest version of their conclusions? >> Okay, I'll just transcribe the Conclusion paragraphs: "Both (Yaesu and Icom) of these products are outstanding, in our view. Still, between the two, for general purpose on-the-ramp communication and back-up comm for IFR, our choice is the Yaesu VXA-100. It has the best combination of small size, good performance and neat features. That said, we wouldn't recommend it for a permanent installation in a nordo flivver such as a Cub or Champ, however. Because the Icom is easier to mount, thanks to its conventional shape and is, in our view, more ruggedly constructed, we think it's the better choice in that application. (Sporty's sells a portable mounting bracket that will accept the Icom, plus Icom offers its own version.) Speaking of Sporty's, its JD-200 is the third man in this comparison. At $375, it's a good performer and a good value, even if its featureset is a bit less extensive than the Yaesu. (We last reviewed that unit in the February, 1996 Aviation Consumer.) All things considered, for the money, Yaesu has a winner if you desire all the features that can be crammed into a small package. We're happy to see them in the aviation market." Hope that helps. Rick McBride ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
In a message dated 5/1/99 15:09:27, fasching(at)amigo.net writes: I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor. At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the fiberglass fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16" I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new RV-6A nose gear leg equipped planes. I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear. Thank you if you can give me your measurements. RV-6A Flying Salida, CO >> Why don't you just fly it to FTG and we'll measure them side by side? Also have my hangar mates unused leg leanign against teh hangar wall. Or we could flip a coin If I win I can come up there and I'll show you mine if you show me yours. Gotta do it soon as I am amputating it next week. How abotu Monday? D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 1999
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
In a message dated 5/1/99 4:10:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JNice51355(at)aol.com writes: << Has anyone used an arrangement that involved springs that hugged the muff, but did not touch the exhaust? Or, maybe if the springs were welded to the exhaust?? There has to be a way to keep this type of wear from happening, and still get the needed effect. >> Oh you guys are so carraazy. Just use the stainless steel wool pads or try some medium to light springs. This isn't rocket science. I would think that the pipes could only be damaged by an extremely robust spring. That gives you some latitude. McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of real long stainless steel springs in every diameter and wire size. I would think that many of these would certainly work well for the next thirty or so years. I do agree that muffs should checked regularly (I certainly try to check every muff I can). -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
><< If this is done, your condition inspection check list should have >an item > to remove the muff "completely" and carefully inspect the pipe(s) for > wear. >> >Has anyone used an arrangement that involved springs that hugged the >muff, >but did not touch the exaust? Or, maybe if the springs were welded to >the >exaust?? There has to be a way to keep this type of wear from >happening, and >still get the needed effect. > > For many years (on and off the list) I have been recommending the use of stainless steel pot scrubing pads ( also mentioned recently by an poster in this thread). They do the same job as the springs (better actually) and they wont wear through the exhaust pipe. They can wear the aluminum on a heat muff slightly but it is very slow and wont likely have much effect on the overall life span of the muff. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
>I just went to the airport and measured the height of my horizontal >stabilizer from the fairly level hangar floor. > >At the outer tip of the horiz. stab. where the aluminum meets the >fiberglass >fairing, at the leading edge to the floor is 39-7/16" > >I would appreciate some comparison measurements from both old and new >RV-6A >nose gear leg equipped planes. > >I just want to resolve a perplexing question about the new nose gear. >Thank you if you can give me your measurements. > >RV-6A Flying >Salida, CO > > I have no explanation for why you seem to have had a change. FYI.. the engine/prop configuration is also likely to produce a very measurable difference between and airplane with 180/constant speed versus a 150/wood prop. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
>Hi Scott, >I replaced the nose gear strut on the -6A with a "new" one and there >was no >change in fuselage attitude(aircraft on ground)after the replacement. >Before >and after attitude was identical. When I called Van's to get info on >making >the swap I was told to send in the "old" one so that the "new" one >would be >drilled to match. I did that and when I received the "new" one the >bolt hole >for the bracket that holds the nose wheel stop was drilled 90 degrees >in >contrast to the old one that I sent to Van's. Why???? >AL Malecha > - Since the leg was being redesigned to improve the fatigue life and strength this was one other change that was made. The major load on the gear leg is pu and down, which is fwd and aft on the portion that receives the nose wheel fork. The orientation for the bolt that gives the most strength at this point is so that the bending load is applied from one side of the hole to the other instead of along its length. If you look at the bolt hole for the brake mount flanges on the main gear legs, they also have the holes drilled so that the main load is applied to the leg on each side of the hole not acrossed its length. This is a very simplified description with out getting into details of how the bending load is distributed through the leg itself (I couldn't think of how to describe it without sketching with a pen), but it is stronger. No problem has ever been detected with this part of the leg previously but since changes were being made, it was changed to get the most life/strength possible. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 01, 1999
>Oh you guys are so carraazy. Just use the stainless steel wool pads >or try >some medium to light springs. This isn't rocket science. I would >think that >the pipes could only be damaged by an extremely robust spring. That >gives >you some latitude. > >McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of real long stainless steel >springs in >every diameter and wire size. I would think that many of these would >certainly work well for the next thirty or so years. I do agree that >muffs >should checked regularly (I certainly try to check every muff I can). > >-GV > > Do you really think having a concern about CO poisoning is "crazy". I have seen this happen because of the use of springs. Your right... not every installation with springs will necessarily have a wear through problem, but why take a chance. Personally I think the idea of using a softer spring is a bad idea. It may allow more wear because vibration could cause more movement. Who knows? Who cares? When their is an alternative to a procedure that has show evidence of a problem then why use the procedure that has the (potential) problem? Most of all I think you should be ashamed of your self for calling me (or any one else) crazy just because their own experience has shown that something you advocate may be a bad idea. :-) Scott (wont put springs on my heat muffs) McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au>
Subject: Re: 1/8 rivet squeeze question
> > << Granted it does not have the removeable yolk, >> > > So, what "size" is the built-in yoke? The 'yolk' has 1.5" reach. Also it only weighs 1.5 lbs. Doug ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Subject: Re: a flying adventure of sorts (long)
I bought bags of appropriately threaded "hardware store" nuts for temporary use when fitting parts before final assembly. I install them and torque them if need be, then remove them before final assembly. Then at final assembly I use a nylock or whatever is called for. These nuts are ALWAYS torqued right then and there. That way, if it has the "final" nut on it, I know it's torqued. Just my own personal procedure..... Torque seal is always a good idea too. Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Ailerons/Flaps finally done!! Gar & Jan Pessel wrote: > 2) The lesson here for builders is an important one. In the process of > assembling parts, hoses, push rods, etc., we often assemble things without > torqueing nuts and fittings to final values for safe flight. How many > things on the project are actually in this condition? My project is now > starting to sprout little pieces of tape on things that are not fastened > securely. It would be oh so easy to miss something important, if you are > not completely systematic about connecting AND tightening AND inserting > cotter pins where required. Torque seal, white paint, or whatever dabbed on > parts that have been tightened makes it so much more obvious what has been > done, and what has been left for later. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Sorting Outlook Express
Date: May 01, 1999
Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that one would have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the other personal stuff that comes in? Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Subject: Electric aileron trim for sale
I have chosen against installing the electric aileron trim in my -6. I'll sell the trim kit, complete and untouched, still in box/bag for $175 (now $200 from Van's). E-mail off-line if interested. Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Ailerons/Flaps finally done!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
Subject: Wood prop bolts....
Does anyone know if 3/8" bolt holes in a wood prop can be drilled out to 7/16". I am looking at buying an O-320 with 7/16" prop mount bolt holes and a Warnke prop with 3/8" mounting holes. My thinking is that a prop shop could easily enlarge the prop holes to fit. I'd rather have 7/16" bolts than 3/8". Any experience, wisdom or knowledge? Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Ailerons/Flaps finally done!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: camera port
Date: May 01, 1999
> > Here's an idea I had about mounting a lipstick type video camera. "Borrow" > an electric > remote side view mirror adjust system ala Ford Explorer or other fine > automobile > and use it to remotely position the camera which could be mounted behind > the plexiglass of > your favorite brand of landing/taxi light. Just and idea mind you..... > > Ed Cole I too would like to mount a remote camera on my aircraft. I considered an electric remote side mirror off a late model car to the point where I looked at several that I was able to remove from their housings. I took home and tested a mount from a 1999 Chrysler LHS on a 12v battery and decided that it wouldn't work for three reasons: 1 - It doesn't move far enough. The camera will not be able to tilt and pan enough to be very usefull. 2 - It moves too slow. 3 - The platform that moves doesn't seem solid enough. Lets keep this thread going? Are there any other ideas out there? Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: The Abacos, Bahamas
Andy Hanna encouraged me to fly to the islands after SNF. I contacted the AOPA website and finally found the info regarding experimental class aircraft flying to the Bahamas. Your membership card has the hot line number to call for a complete package. The 2 day fed-ex shipping charge of $27 was a surprise. I gathered all the documents for N3773 and faxed them to the civil air people after discovering that their e-mail doesn't work. I started this process very late and only had a couple of days before we were to leave for Lakeland. The person who reviews the faxes apparently doesn't work every day. The woman on the phone however was pleasant and tried to push my application thru. One document you need is a radio station license. The US application has a temporary license to get you thru until the permanent one arrives. It is good for 3 weeks. The top of the form just didn't get mailed. Yes, the license costs $105. The weather was bad on the day we were to leave, freezing rain from surface to 3500' reported east of the Cascades. Still no reply. But the next morning it arrived by fax, an 8 day window for permission to fly to the Bahamas. From Sun-N-Fun we flew to Lantana, just south of West Palm Beach where we picked up a pair of life jackets and checked with the locals on procedures. I filed a flight plan for VFR. I was flying out to sea with the idea of climbing to healthy altitudes to maintain glide distances when I realized that the holes in the clouds were disappearing. We dove down and leveled out at 1400'. So much for glide angles, time to believe in the odds and Lycoming. We flew over Bimini, circled and headed next to the big island where Freeport is located. We flew over the outer cays of The Abacos and into Marsh Harbour. Just as we touched down I heard a radio transmission inquiring about our whereabouts. Because we left Lantana 15 mins before indicated in our flight plan I mistakenly thought that I had some extra time to sightsee. The rules also state that you must give them an hours notice before entering their country. Well at 20 minutes to the second Miami Center was looking for my plane. Customs was a joke. They didn't look at the plane and my 12" numbers, they didn't ask about the experimental status, they didn't check our luggage. I parked next to two other RV's on the ramp. There were no tie downs, but fuel was $2/gal! With no reservations we ended up finally in Hope Town on Elbow Cay, a cute, historic village where the main street is all of 8' wide. I won't bore you with the details of paradise. On the trip back we called Miami Center 15 mins before reaching the ADIZ and were given a squawk code. We had to land at West Palm Beach because Lantana isn't a port of entry. Again, no one checked anything except the customs sticker($25) which I had prepurchased in Portland, though I could have waited until there. Flew back to Lantana to return the life jackets. The SOB there charged us $56 for the 4 day rental even tho the jackets only cost $12 a piece new. It was on to Raleigh-Durham, College Park (DC), Columbus OH, Palwaukee IL(with a great ride up the lakeshore right past Meigs Field) and get this, we get stuck in fog in Hettinger ND for two days. With ceilings of 100' and .2 mi visibility even the turbine Thrush crop duster landed, but who reportedly had passed thru just 2 hrs before? The factory 8A with Benedict hoping to get home! Saw the pregnant Explorer II go by the next day near Boise. That's it. Get busy, just get it flying, there's fun times to be had, besides that unpainted plane looks more adventuresome to most people. kevin n3773 6A 450 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Sorting Inbox Of Outlook Express 5
Date: May 01, 1999
Thanks for all of the reply's so fast but the new Outlook 5 doesn't have an inbox assistant in the tools menu. I'm still trying to find a way to have all of the List mail go into a separate inbox. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arzflyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A Nose Gear Leg
Thank You Scott, Your message and explanation is most appreciated. It is a credit to Van's and RV owners to have someone like you at HQ to talk to and get our questions answered. Keep up the good work and best regards, AL Malecha, RV-6A, Ryan Field, Tucson, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Date: May 02, 1999
Doug, From my experience, I've found that at 165 mph I need a small amount of rudder trim to keep the ball centered ( with straight vertical fin ). At 185 mph, I have too much trim. With all the command I have with the rudder on my RV4, I wouldn't advise offsetting the vertical fin. If you did offset it a small amount, you wouldn't need a trim tab though. With all the RV4's that are out there you ought to be able to get enough information to know exactly if or how much to offset without even needing a trim tab. So at 185 mph, my RV4 using a very thin wedge for a trim tab has too much trim with a straight vertical stab. Jim Nolan N444JN ---------- > Fellow Listers: > > I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S > prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical > fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have > heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven > visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any > consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect). > Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim > using the landing gear fairings. What say you? > > Doug ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 Oil Cooling
Chris, The lycoming engine already has a vernatherm that if working properly does this temp regulating. Stewart, RV4 Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Wood prop bolts....
Date: May 02, 1999
Why don't you ask your prop man? On the other hand, 3/8" bolts are just as strong in this application as 7/16" It dopesn't look that way but you are limited to about 250 inch-pounds of torque before you start damaaging the wooden prop. Your prop is driven by friction not by the shear strength of the bolts or the drive lugs. Lose the tension on the bolts and the bolts and drive lugs will fail. It is probably a wash money-wise. Boring the holes out or replacing with 3/8" thread drive lugs will cost just about the same. But ask your prop man! BTW. Make sure to check the torque of whatever bolts you use frequently, at least every 25 hours. Make the first check within 5 hours of your installation. Go to the Sensenich prop web site for more info... http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/usencare.htm This site is for certified props but the info is very good. Just because you are flying experimental, it doesn't change the physics of the situation. The O-320 has a smaller flange designed for metal props so you have a compromise to start. Good luck and check the torque frequently. Ask Dick Rutan aboput propless flight. And use Prop bolts not class 8. They are designed for use on props. Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact! visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com -----Original Message----- From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 12:08 AM Subject: RV-List: Wood prop bolts.... > >Does anyone know if 3/8" bolt holes in a wood prop can be drilled out to >7/16". I am looking at buying an O-320 with 7/16" prop mount bolt holes >and a Warnke prop with 3/8" mounting holes. My thinking is that a prop >shop could easily enlarge the prop holes to fit. I'd rather have 7/16" >bolts than 3/8". > >Any experience, wisdom or knowledge? > >Jon Elford >RV6 #25201 >Ailerons/Flaps finally done!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com>
Subject: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
Date: May 02, 1999
> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> > Subject: RV-List: Sorting Outlook Express > > Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that > one would > have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the > other personal stuff that comes in? You need to set up a "rule" that will automatically move RV messages out of your regular inbox and into another folder. I believe Outlook Express (the free one that you can download and that ships with Windows) doesn't have rules, but Outlook (which ships with Exchange Server and with Office) does. Possible Workaround: Use "Digest" mode. Then you only have a one message/day to deal with. - Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: camera port
From: "james freeman" <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
---------- >From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: camera port >Date: Sat, May 1, 1999, 11:37 PM > > I too would like to mount a remote camera on my aircraft. I considered an > electric remote side mirror off a late model car to the point where I looked > at several that I was able to remove from their housings. I took home and > tested a mount from a 1999 Chrysler LHS on a 12v battery and decided that it > wouldn't work for three reasons: >(snip) > Lets keep this thread going? Are there any other ideas out there? > > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC I have been looking at this too, but for the moment I'm just planning to mount small fixed board cameras in the fairings of the vertical stab and a wingtip. These cameras are available in the $100-$200 range, will typically run on 5-12 v DC and will work with a camcorder in the cockpit. Weatherproof color video cameras in a "lipstick" case are available for $220 or so and could be mounted almost anywhere. If you want to pan a video( or still) camera, try using a Basic Stamp microcontroller and RC servos. This may be more trouble than you want but look at http//www.seetron.com or www.parallaxinc.com for more info James Freeman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel?
Finn Lassen wrote: > > > Ok, so decided to have two fuel pumps after all. > > Now, do I put them in series or in parallel? Finn, I have two Facet pumps and NO engine driven pump...they work quite well. One pump comes on with the master switch and the other comes on with the STBY switch. You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve. They MUST be counted in parallel. An economical source for Facet pumps is Advance Fuels, PO Box 175, Little Rock, CA 93543, 805-944-1496. MTBF is 5000 hours. Factory recommends mounting with the outlet higher than the inlet in order to more easily pass vapor. My standby pump has its own little standby battery though I think a meltdown of the main battery is unlikely. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A Flight Test ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: a flying adventure of sorts (long)
Re: "A fool finds salvation", a gas line coming off 15 yards from the fuel pump. A long time ago in another lifetime, a fellow race car mechanic taught me the following mantra: "NEVER tighten a nut/screw/etc. finger tight". Think about it. If the nut is obviously loose, the chances are good that you will see it. If its finger tight, it looks fully tight, and you will find out at the least opportune time that it wasn't. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Torque all nuts/bolts
>Torque seal, white paint, or whatever dabbed on parts that have been tightened >makes it so much more obvious what has been done, and what has been left for >later. When I was working as a mechanic, we were working on a Cessna 180 and were doing something to the ailerons, necessitating disconnecting the behind-the-panel mechanism, which is a set of cables connected to a chain. There is a VERY small bolt and nut (can't remember what size) that was cottered. I was upside down, under the panel, putting in that REALLY LITTLE cotter key, thinking of what would happen if that insiginificant looking cotter was left out. There are no 'small' nuts in an airplane. As I was putting Suzie Q together, bolts/nuts not being torqued was always on my mind. When the time came for everything to be or have been torqued, I went from front to back several times first torquing and marking, then checking ALL things that needed tightening, including fuel fittings. ALL bolts/nuts have been marked with yellow torque seal (marks them torqued and that they have stayed that way) or another mark on everything else. And, with all that, there can still be things that aren't torqued correctly. The advice not to finger torque anything is a good one. What about castillated nuts? Just because they are keyed does that mean they were adequately adjusted? Mine do. I check 'em before I key 'em, not just key 'em. During my conditional inspection, I make a list of things I take apart (fuel lines, for example) and check them off only when I have torqued them back. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Waiting for the rain to stop....... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-4 oil cooler lines
Date: May 02, 1999
Fellow Listers: A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing his oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from his engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil going to the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler. Does it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks that it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and cooled oil out the bottom back to the engine. Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: cotter key
dear listers i'm finished my wings and have 2 small bolts with a hole in it and 2 cotter keys, i can't find anything on the prints about these, anyone who has completed their wings with a fresh memory please help. thanks scott was winging it in tampa now con-fusalaged ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make
Fellow builders, I have been pondering how to pass my control cables through the firewall and also anchor them at the same time. I found just what I was looking for on page 151 of AS 1999 catalogue, the Cable Safe. Eight and 16 buck versions. Well, I decided that I could make these a heck of a lot cheaper. For control cables such as the A-740 (3/16" OD cable) you need: 1 AN832-4D Flared tube bulkhead fitting 1 AN924-4D Nut (retaining) 1 AN818 -4D Nut (flare) 1 AN819-4D Sleeve (optional) The inside diameter of the bulkhead fitting is not quite 3/16" and needs to be reamed to .188" After reaming, cut the short flared end off. The fitting now looks like a hollow bolt. On the remaining flare end, cut two slots about .250" deep and 90 degrees to each other. cut these slots as if you were trying to split the fitting right down the middle. The idea here is to create a collet out of this end. The Bulkhead Cable Clamp is now done. Slide the cable through the fitting, and install the AN819 sleeve and AN818 flare nut and tighten down. I tested the holding power of the clamp and could not pull the cable out no matter how hard I pulled. My mixture and throttle cables needed a different version of the above clamp. They are ACS cables with a polyolifin outer cover and 10-32 8deg swivel ends. For these I used the following: 1 AN832-6D Flared tube bulkhead fitting 1 AN924-6D Nut 1 AN818-6D Nut (flare) Same basic procedure as for the 3/16 cable clamp with one major change. Split the fitting lengthwise on one of the collet cuts. The fitting is also of the correct ID and no reaming is needed. To install, run the cable, fit the Cable clamp around the cable and insert in the hole in the firewall, Install the AN924 and AN818 nuts and tighten. Cost for each clamp is about U$3.50 Enjoy. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 Pine Junction, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make
Date: May 02, 1999
>Fellow builders, > >I have been pondering how to pass my control cables through the firewall >and also anchor them at the same time. I found just what I was looking >for on page 151 of AS 1999 catalogue, the Cable Safe. Eight and 16 buck >versions. > >Well, I decided that I could make these a heck of a lot cheaper. For >control cables such as the A-740 (3/16" OD cable) you need: > >1 AN832-4D Flared tube bulkhead fitting >1 AN924-4D Nut (retaining) >1 AN818 -4D Nut (flare) >1 AN819-4D Sleeve (optional) > >The inside diameter of the bulkhead fitting is not quite 3/16" and needs >to be reamed to .188" After reaming, cut the short flared end off. The >fitting now looks like a hollow bolt. On the remaining flare end, cut >two slots about .250" deep and 90 degrees to each other. cut these slots >as if you were trying to split the fitting right down the middle. The >idea here is to create a collet out of this end. The Bulkhead Cable >Clamp is now done. Slide the cable through the fitting, and install the >AN819 sleeve and AN818 flare nut and tighten down. > >I tested the holding power of the clamp and could not pull the cable out >no matter how hard I pulled. > >My mixture and throttle cables needed a different version of the above >clamp. They are ACS cables with a polyolifin outer cover and 10-32 8deg >swivel ends. For these I used the following: > >1 AN832-6D Flared tube bulkhead fitting >1 AN924-6D Nut >1 AN818-6D Nut (flare) > >Same basic procedure as for the 3/16 cable clamp with one major change. >Split the fitting lengthwise on one of the collet cuts. The fitting is >also of the correct ID and no reaming is needed. To install, run the >cable, fit the Cable clamp around the cable and insert in the hole in >the firewall, Install the AN924 and AN818 nuts and tighten. > >Cost for each clamp is about U$3.50 > >Enjoy. > >Gary Zilik Gary, Great information! Now, your next assignment: design a similar setup for the -4, -3 and -8 drivers who have to run the mixture/throttle cables at a radical angle through the firewall. The "eyeball" bulkhead fittings sure do a nice job, but at $26 EACH? Ouch! (I've become financially challenged by now....every dollar hurts.) You now have your orders. Your reward, should you accept this mission, Mr. Phelps, ("Mission Impossible" theme song ensues) is a plateload of green chile enchiladas courtesy of the the State of New Mexico and ME! Of course, you have to fly down here to get it. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD cables, primer lines, baffles, etc. etc. Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net>
Subject: substructure dimple
Date: May 02, 1999
Listers, I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts? Charlie Oglesby Winter Haven, FL Shopping For Tools ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Slotted T-405 Tank Attach Angle
Date: May 03, 1999
Buiders, Searched but have not located slot depth dimension (see p 11, 1st '98 issue "The RVator"). Someone please provide either slot depth or distance from angle base reference datum. A dimension using center of slot radius is also very acceptable. (No hint found on RV-8 Wing Fuel Tank DWG 16. If I missed something I'll appreciate being corrected.) Thanks, Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN RV-8, preparing wing & tank parts Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead Cable Clamps; how to make
Date: May 02, 1999
>Now, your next assignment: design a similar setup for the -4, -3 and -8 >drivers who have to run the mixture/throttle cables at a radical angle >through the firewall. The "eyeball" bulkhead fittings sure do a nice job, >but at $26 EACH? Ouch! (I've become financially challenged by now....every >dollar hurts.) [snip] Good post Brian! My sentiments exactly! Randall Henderson randallh(at)home.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV-8 Aileron Stop
Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The instructions say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required? Mike Robbins RV-8Q #591 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: "J.J. Banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptdprolog.net>
Subject: Re: substructure dimple
do not use tank dies on thin metal it enlarges the hole too much Charlie Oglesby wrote: > > Listers, > > I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to > be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the > substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would > need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really > don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts? > > Charlie Oglesby > Winter Haven, FL > Shopping For Tools > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Slotted T-405 Tank Attach Angle
Jack, If I'm understanding you question correctly, you don't want to slot until you drill the T-405 in place, mating to fuselage, while setting up the incidence. Then just slot to the end of the angle. Hope this helps Larry Olson Cave Creek, AZ RV-6 - Tanks At 12:19 AM 5/3/99 GMT, you wrote: > >Buiders, > Searched but have not located slot depth dimension (see p 11, 1st '98 >issue "The RVator"). Someone please provide either slot depth or distance >from angle base reference datum. A dimension using center of slot radius is >also very acceptable. (No hint found on RV-8 Wing Fuel Tank DWG 16. If I >missed something I'll appreciate being corrected.) >Thanks, Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN >RV-8, preparing wing & tank parts > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel?
Date: May 02, 1999
-----Original Message----- >You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an >internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve. I don't believe that statement is true. All Facet solid-state pumps have a foot valve which functions as a check valve. Fuel cannot back flow on any model. The foot valve only opens when the plunger draws a vacuum (relative to inlet pressure) on the foot valve. The only difference between part numbers is in details like pressure range (regulated by an internal spring), wire configuration and port sizes (there is a version with male 6AN ports). I don't have my Facet catalog handy, so I can't tell you the difference between the 108 and 109 until I dig it out. If you want to see a cross section of one of these pumps, check out their web site: http://www.facet-purolator.com/electri.htm Chris Heitman Dousman WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Aileron deflection problem on 6A
Guys, I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get 25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done? TIA! Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 - jumping from one thing to another as parts trickle in. Pine Junction, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: substructure dimple
Charlie, I see your logic and wondered the same things. I have found no fitting problems using the same dimple dies for both skin and substructure. For the tanks I used normal everyday dimple dies and gave each dimple a touchup with with a 100 deg. countersink. In fact, I touched up every dimple on the skin of my plane with a couple of turns of the countersink. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 Pine Junction, CO Charlie Oglesby wrote: > > Listers, > > I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to > be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the > substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would > need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really > don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
Date: May 02, 1999
If your version permits it, select "tools" then "inbox assistant" and add a rule that if the message contains "rv-list" or "re-rv" then put the message in a designated folder. Message will be put there and not in your "inbox". Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: Mark S. Jennings <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:35 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Sorting Outlook Express > >> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> >> Subject: RV-List: Sorting Outlook Express >> >> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that >> one would >> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the >> other personal stuff that comes in? > >You need to set up a "rule" that will automatically move RV messages out of >your regular inbox and into another folder. > >I believe Outlook Express (the free one that you can download and that ships >with Windows) doesn't have rules, but Outlook (which ships with Exchange >Server and with Office) does. > >Possible Workaround: Use "Digest" mode. Then you only have a one >message/day to deal with. > >- Mark > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: rv6 jig
I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend. It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it. It will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with a 2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West area.. Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it is free.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 02, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 oil cooler lines
In a message dated 5/2/99 2:49:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes: << A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing his oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from his engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil going to the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler. Does it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks that it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and cooled oil out the bottom back to the engine. >> IMO the hot outgoing oil from the engine block should always go into the bottom port on the oil cooler so that any air that becomes trapped is naturally purged out from the bottom up. This way it works with the physics of the situation rather than fighting them. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron deflection problem on 6A
You got it... >Guys, > >I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get >25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron >bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way >I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge >to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: substructure dimple
Charlie, You may very well have read about using the tank dies on substructure in my product review of the Cleaveland tank dimple dies: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tankdies.html The first time I heard of this method was during a conversation with Mike Lauritsen of Cleaveland Tools when he recommended the use of the tank dies on substructure. They apparently used them on their personal projects and liked the results. I subsequently started using the tank dies on much of the substructure of my RV6 and found no adverse effects due to their use. Do the tank dies make for tighter fitting skins? I am not sure, since once the rivet gun gets through pounding the living daylights out of the poor rivet, most slop will probably be taken up anyway. :-) I highly recommend the use of the tank dies on fuel tanks, however. Sam Buchanan (still getting ready to get ready to build the paint booth...) "The RV Journal" htp://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 "J.J. Banks" wrote: > > > do not use tank dies on thin metal it enlarges the hole too much > > Charlie Oglesby wrote: > > > > > Listers, > > > > I read somewhere that if two pieces were to be joined, and each piece was to > > be dimpled, that there is a "tank die" avalable from Cleaveland Tool for the > > substructure dimple. It seems to make sense that the bottom dimple would > > need to be slighty diffeent than the top dimple for a proper fit. I really > > don't have the expertise to do the math, but it sounds right. Any thoughts? > > > > Charlie Oglesby > > Winter Haven, FL > > Shopping For Tools > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-4 oil cooler lines
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: May 03, 1999
>A question for a local RV-4 builder not on the list: he is installing >his >oil cooler vertically on the firewall. There are two oil lines from >his >engine marked IN and OUT. He is assuming that OUT would be hot oil >going to >the oil cooler and IN would be cooler oil coming from the oil cooler. >Does >it matter which line goes to which port on the oil cooler? He thinks >that >it would be best for hot oil to come into the top of the cooler and >cooled >oil out the bottom back to the engine. > >Doug > > >=========== >Doug Weiler >Hudson, WI >715-386-1239 >dougweil(at)pressenter.com > > - Unless it is not possible because of the installation, I prefer to route oil "In" to the cooler at the bottom and "Out" of the cooler at the top. This helps to make sure that the cooler fills with oil entirely, and purges all of the air instead of letting oil dribble from the top to the bottom and possibly entrapping air in a portion of it. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: FtWorth Seminar Location and Accomodations
We've updated the location and local accomodations for the June 5-6 seminar in Ft.Worth, Tx. Interested parties can click on: http://www.aeroelectric.com/whereis.html#ftworth Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jefft" <jefft(at)chatlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV workshop
Date: May 02, 1999
Yea Brother Reed to that I say 'AMEN'. I just can't wait for the Cinco whatever potluck. Oh Boy! Between you and me I'm thinking of dropping 725 and joining up with MFR. I have your package from Vans and will drop it off tomorrow. Cheers, JT ----- Original Message ----- From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 2:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > > Check out the chapter before you decide to join. Many are just social clubs > with no projects to offer thus of no use to anyone trying to gain knowledge. > Contact the chapter Pres. and ask what they have going. I know, the one I > belong to is purely social with a yearly Fly-In and they are always short of > volunteers for this event and the Exec committee. If this is your thing then > by all means join just to meet people with like interests. > > Derek Reed Oregon RV6A finish kit > > -----Original Message----- > From: IELHAI(at)aol.com <IELHAI(at)aol.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:38 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV workshop > > > > > . You will > >learn more by joining an EAA chapter than any thing> > >Irv 80110 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Recombinant Gas (RG) Sealed Batteries
>A) Is there an industry standard as to terminal > configuration, i.e. 5/16 or 3/8 threaded stud?? > >B) If I were to buy the battery early for wiring and > installation reasons, would I risk deterioration > while it sat on the shelf for X months?? > >For CG reasons, battery installation is normally last, >yet I would like to have the wiring in place, which >means correctly sized terminations. Any reasonable >answers accepted. If a "standard" exists, it's only because all of the 24-32 a.h. flooded batteries for airplanes have used 5/16" terminals. In the modern RG batteries, you'll find terminals of 1/4" to 5/16" . . . Buy your flying battery the week you intend to fly. Use an el-cheepo boat or tractor battery to check things out in the shop. Some builders are taking advantage of a plug-in-the-wall power supply we offer that will run a full-up airplane electrical system on the ground. See . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Flap relays
>> Sorry for wasted band width. >> Someone was posting to me about electric flap relays but I accidently did >> the big delete. We stock an very handy relay suited for PM motor flap systems. Our S704-1 relay can be viewed from our website catalog at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.htm Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: substructure dimple
charlie, i built 1 tank with the regular dies, and the second tank with the tank dies, ( get the tank dies and dimple structure and skin with them, much better results scott 6a tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
Just another idea. I bought a sheet of 2 color laminated plastic (Matte gray and white). I then laid it on the panel and cut the instrument holes through it. After I had done that I took it to the local engraver and had all the switch and instrument names cut out so the white shows through. the plastic cost $50.00 and the engraving cost $80.00 and it looks really nice. The only problem is you have to be VERY careful or you'll scratch off the topcoat of plastic (Ask me how I know). Another plus is if you change your mind and want to change the configuration, it's easy to replace Regards, Merle RV-4 Chevy doing wiring and such ...and preliminary indications are it's going to be light for a Chevy powered plane ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
At Sun'n'Fun I talked with a Swedish RV builder. He said he had changed the design of the vertical stabilizer to make it more like a wing (I think he said he added 1/4" to the left side of the foward spar, but I'm not sure). The idea is to make the side-ways "lift" vary with speed, so no additional trim is needed throughout the entire speed range. Not sure if this is really doable, but thought I'd relay the idea. Finn JimNolan wrote: > > Doug, > From my experience, I've found that at 165 mph I need a small amount > of rudder trim to keep the ball centered ( with straight vertical fin ). At > 185 mph, I have too much trim. > With all the command I have with the rudder on my RV4, I wouldn't > advise offsetting the vertical fin. > If you did offset it a small amount, you wouldn't need a trim tab though. > With all the RV4's that are out there you ought to be able to get enough > information to know exactly if or how much to offset without even needing > a trim tab. > So at 185 mph, my RV4 using a very thin wedge for a trim tab has too > much trim with a straight vertical stab. > Jim Nolan > N444JN > ---------- > > Fellow Listers: > > > > I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4 (180hp, C/S > > prop). What is the general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical > > fin in order to minimize or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I have > > heard mixed results. In fact, I had Bill Benedict and Jerry VanGrunsven > > visiting me last weekend during the RV Forum and they didn't have any > > consistent opinion (sometimes it works OK, sometimes it has so effect). > > Jerry even mentioned that he found better results in adjusting yaw trim > > using the landing gear fairings. What say you? > > > > Doug > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
>I am getting close to attaching the vertical fin to my RV-4. What is the >general consensus regarding any offset of the vertical fin in order to minimize >or eliminate a fixed rudder trim tab.? I had looked at as many RVs as I could get my eyes on and all but a few had a rudder trim tab. SO....offsetting the vertical seemed like a pretty good idea to me. Problem is, how much is enough. I guessed 1/4 inch and, if you look at my rudder, I still have a rudder tab. So I don't know what to tell you. I guess offset it some and trim out the rest. Won't hurt unless you go the wrong way, then you'll have a really big trim tab. I used the wedge trim tab and it looks just fine. Works pretty well, too. You have to fly with all the fairings on (landing gear) to determine exactly how big the tab will be. Then it is trial and error. Suzie Q flys hands off, but I like to keep a hand on anyway. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Not flying enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Date: May 03, 1999
What an intriguing thought process. Unfortunately it's a complex way of achieving the same result as an offset, i.e. a fixed coefficient of lift (side-ways). Doesn't matter whether its from an asymmetric airfoil or a symmetric one at an angle of attack, the CL will produce a balancing side force at only one airspeed. I doubt you could broaden the speed band with more sophisticated airfoils or analysis, but my AAE degree is too rusty to prove it. Even if theoretically possible, it would get probably get lost in the noise of variations in engine, prop and airframe rig. BTW, my vertical fin is mounted without (intentional; ) offset. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit Houston (DWH) > > At Sun'n'Fun I talked with a Swedish RV builder. He said he had > changed the > design of the vertical stabilizer to make it more like a wing (I > think he said he > added 1/4" to the left side of the foward spar, but I'm not > sure). The idea is to > make the side-ways "lift" vary with speed, so no additional trim is needed > throughout the entire speed range. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls
Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at high loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will the LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place? Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
>> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that >> one would >> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the >> other personal stuff that comes in? I don't know about Outlook Express but the free version of Eudora has very good mail filters. So does the Netscape mail reader. I have mine set up so that my mailing list mail is automatically shunted from my inbox to a separate mailbox for each mailing list. Oh, and I also wrote rules that examine the body of the message for things like: "HOT SEX" "mail addresses" and automatically routes them to the trash mailbox for future perusal. I had to turn off my filters for "juno.com" and "hotmail.com" because they were discarding email from some people on the list. (But it also automatically discarded email from my ex-wife which I thought was a positive side effect but I digress.) Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: parachutes
From: b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com>
Craig, I prefer the back pack, because it is much easier to move around in and if one had to bail out, it is easier to move quickly. I have the seat pack due to the configuration of the airplane, it is the only thing that will fit in the rear seat. Bruce Green RV-8 plans >>>one seat and one back and I am quite happy with the quality >and >> comfort of them. >> > > >Just curious, which do you prefer the seat type or the back type? > >Craig Hiers > > > --- > --- > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Subject: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Date: May 03, 1999
I was surprised to read that posting that said that the "majority" of RVs have a rudder trim installed. I just finished my rudder and didn't even think to deviate from the plans to the extent of putting something like that in. First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it worth the weight? I assume it's a system like the elevator trim, or are your referring to something more simple? Second, how would I go about making this -- just copy what was done for the elevator? Third, did those of you that put in a rudder trim do anything at this stage or did you retrofit one in later? Just asking these questions is getting me to think that applying a little rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get tired may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't have a rudder trim in your RV? Thanks for the help. Peter Christensen RV-6A Wing on order, new workshop almost done Pittsburgh, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: school bus strobes
I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a 3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats Whelens hands down. kevin 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patty" <d020205(at)vm.sc.edu>
Subject: Beagle Aviation Shirts
Date: May 03, 1999
Listers, At the Sun-n-Fun RV banquet I was lucky enough to win a shirt from Beagle Aviation. I received the shirt over the weekend and it is wonderful. I hope my RV turns out as nice as the one embroidered on the shirt. Now that I have the shirt I better finish the plane :). He had many different RVs to choose from, not to mention other airplanes. The address is www.beagleav.com. Check it out! Patty Gillies gillies-patty(at)sc.edu RV-6, Finish Kit, South Carolina ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Test
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum
Date: May 03, 1999
I talked to Dick Waters this morning and he has rec'd and torn down Dick Pearson's engine. The failure was due to a broken crank. The crank broke at the journal support and Dick said that in his 31 years in the business and 2100+ engines sold he'd never seen this kind of break before and this was a certified "yellow tagged" crank. Dick is overhauling the case, replacing a rod and installing a "yellow tagged" crank. He expects to ship Dick Pearson's engine back to him, at No Cost, by the end of the week. If any one has any questions you can ccontact Dick Waters can be at (800) 366-4746. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A Niantic, CT Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: CHT's
I am finding that my oil cooler does an excellent job at maintaining oil temps, although I have not flown thru a summer yet. I do seem to have a 40-50 degree CHT spread between cyls #1,2 and #3,4. The front two cylinders are running around 335 degrees, rear cylinders 375 degrees. I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others on this. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com RV-8 20 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Warnke Props..
Does anyone have a report on Margie Warnke props since see took over from her father?? Was thinking of ordering one for my RV-3,160hp...Have one from her father on my 125hp model and its great.....Jim Brown, Matawan, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc attached to usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a cable controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication. I do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying about a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking ones are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the other half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com writes: > > >I was surprised to read that posting that said that the "majority" of >RVs >have a rudder trim installed. I just finished my rudder and didn't >even >think to deviate from the plans to the extent of putting something >like that >in. First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it >worth >the weight? I assume it's a system like the elevator trim, or are >your >referring to something more simple? Second, how would I go about >making >this -- just copy what was done for the elevator? Third, did those of >you >that put in a rudder trim do anything at this stage or did you >retrofit one >in later? > >Just asking these questions is getting me to think that applying a >little >rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get >tired >may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't >have a >rudder trim in your RV? Thanks for the help. > >Peter Christensen >RV-6A Wing on order, new workshop almost done >Pittsburgh, PA > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: school bus strobes
Not only that Kevin, but Whelen will no longer service anything over ten years old. This is not old for airplane things. There are rotating beacons that are still going at 40 years old. I think they just want everyone to buy their units every 10 or 12 years.. Phil n3773 wrote: > > I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c > flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system > has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression > option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no > noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the > plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and > the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The > moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it > thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside > the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice > tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a > 3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some > brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS > carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats > Whelens hands down. kevin 6A > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum
Chuck, Was this crank yellow tagged by Nelson grinding in New Bedford, Mass.? I believe that there was an AD for crankshaft that were reground by this company. The feds shut them down last year, but not before hundreds of their "yellow tagged" cranks were in the field. We had 2 failures here at our airport (Danbury, CT) a C-172 and an Aerostar. A local shop had eleven yellow tagged Nelson cranks on his shelf, seven of which were found to have cracks. Most of these cranks seem to have been circulated throughout the northeast. Regards, Bill Mahoney RV-6 N747W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Racing Rockets
Hello Rocketmen! This past weekend, Mark "Techman" Frederick, of Team Rocket , entered and handily won the Texas 100 Air Race in his Rocket, "Check Six!". This 100 mile standing start race is an annual event, run in conjunction with the Georgetown (Texas) Air Show. Mark's speed was 236.7 MPH/206 KT -- fast enough to beat the #2 ship, a Piper Aerostar, by approx 5 MPH. Mark describes the race as follows: The engine was run at full throttle (29" MP), with the prop set to 2500 RPM. EGT was set at 1200F, with a resulting fuel flow of 21 GPH. The race was run at an altitude of approx 1000' MSL, with ambient temp around 70F and humidity of 95% or so. Oil temp came up to 215 (Setrab 19 row cooler) and stayed there. Indicated speeds were 225-230 MPH. It seemed to take about 3 minutes for the speed to settle out, and slight turbulence certainly affected the ability to maintain the top speed. In comparison, at this year's Sun 100, Tom Hallendorf's "Super 6" turned 216 KT (if memory serves me correctly). The Super 6 houses 330 HP out of his Lycon-built 540, 80 HP more than Mark's, at a stock 250HP. Evidently, Tim Taylor is on the right track -- MORE HORSEPOWER! (grunt, grunt) :o) This stuff is fun! Team Rocket, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Racing Rockets & Sun 100
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com www.neatcars.com > >In comparison, at this year's Sun 100, Tom Hallendorf's "Super 6" turned 216 >KT (if memory serves me correctly). The Super 6 houses 330 HP out of his >Lycon-built 540, 80 HP more than Mark's, at a stock 250HP. Evidently, Tim >Taylor is on the right track -- MORE HORSEPOWER! (grunt, grunt) :o) > >This stuff is fun! > > Speaking of the Sun 100, Can someone post the results. I missed it this year. Shelby ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Van's Capacitance Senders
Talked to Dick Martin today who is the catalyst behind the new capacitance senders that Van's is currently offering. Dick had offered his assistance to the rv-list to answer questions about the new senders. Dick prefers to visit about the senders by phone rather that tue.& thur. - fri.. I promised a fellow builder that I would share my findings on the list. The following is some of the key items discussed: The wire from the sender plates is soldered to the center electrode of the BNC. The BNC supplied with the kit have a hollow electrode and are probably not a high quality BNC. Dick recommends getting good quality Amphenol BNC's with a solid core elecrtode(female BNC around $10 each). They are available at good electronic suppliers. The avionics shops may have them too. The part of the BNC that is inside the tank MUST be completely covered with proseal the proseal should extend out on the wire about 1 1/2 inches to prevent fluid from reaching the BNC and causing a short and rendering the guage useless. The wire between the plates and BNC is wrapped around the vent line a few times(per plans) and tacked to the vent line with proseal(not on plans). There is a small lock washer with a solder lug furnished with the BNC in the kit. The solder lug is a grounding lug which will not be used. If you were installing the BNC in a non-metal tank, you would need to ground the BNC. I will cut the lug off and just use the lock washer part. There is also an interface module that must be used with the EI fuel gauge. I,m not sure if it comes with the gauge or has to be purhcased separately. The interface MUST be as close as possible to the BNC on the outside of the tank in wing root area. Around 3" or 4" from BNC is good. If this distance is farther, the guage will not be accurate. The wiring from the fuel gauge attaches to the interface and the interface attaches to the BNC. The EI gauge documentation offers info on powering the gauge to test the tank. Van's doesn't recommend testing tanks with fuel because it is extremely dangerous. But, you cannot use a liquid, like water, to do the test because the test liquid has to have the same coefficient of capacitance as fuel. Water doesn't, so the readings will be incorrect. If you use a couple of gallons of fuel to do the test, be very carful!! The tanks must be drained and aired out to remove ALL fumes. You may want to use a compressor to air tanks out for about 30 minutes or so. I can pesonally say the senders are simple to install since I have installed my left tank except for the BNC connector which I will upgrade. Dick says the EI gauge with this setup is very accurate and detects small changes in fuel level. A big thanks to Dick Martin. This is all I know and Dick said to feel free to call him at the number listed above with any questions. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com www.neatcars.com ---------- >From: RV6ator(at)aol.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Status - Engine Failure at MN RV Forum >Date: Mon, May 3, 1999, 2:41 PM > >Chuck, > >Was this crank yellow tagged by Nelson grinding in New Bedford, Mass.? I >believe that there was an AD for crankshaft that were reground by this >company. The feds shut them down last year, but not before hundreds of their >"yellow tagged" cranks were in the field. We had 2 failures here at our >airport (Danbury, CT) a C-172 and an Aerostar. A local shop had eleven yellow >tagged Nelson cranks on his shelf, seven of which were found to have cracks. >Most of these cranks seem to have been circulated throughout the northeast. > >Regards, > >Bill Mahoney >RV-6 N747W I had someone try and sell me a crank from this guy. Nelson also did work for the company that does some high performance stuff on aerobatic engines. Dave Anders used some of there stuff on his engine. Oil sump and manifold, I think. Anyway when I spoke to them they said they used Nelson. Shelby in Nashville. Skinning Fuselage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doyon, Richard" <Richard.Doyon(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Portable VHF's
Date: May 03, 1999
A couple of days ago, some were asking about portable handhelds... Not that I want to add to the discussion really, but I had this in an email from the auto-responder at Avionic West. "PORTABLE VHF TRANSCEIVERS The hottest seller in portable equipment nowadays is the Yaesu Aviator Pilot. This 16-key transceiver is the best portable VHF transceiver on the market today. Read my "review" of this fine product. Pay $549.00 elsewhere, or Avionics West has them in stock for $499.00. http://avionicswest.com/articles/articlevxa100.html#vxa" You be the judge. Rich -6A, Empennage, fitting the skins on the spars Everett, WA ***My comments do not represent my employer in any ways, nor is an endorsement of my statements*** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
Date: May 02, 1999
Thanks, Bob, these pixs are worth a thousand words. Nice job. Pat Hatch RV-4 Flying N17PH@INT RV-6 Tail Kit Winston-Salem, NC > >I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of >shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies >in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to >click on . . . > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire > > > Bob . . . > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Rudder Cable Slot
Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the rudder cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension.. Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Aileron deflection problem on 6A
In a message dated 5/2/99 21:21:44, zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes: Guys, I was measuring my maximum aileron travel and found that I can only get 25 deg. up before the lower bolt that attaches the A-606 outer aileron bracket to the aileron hits the W-614 Aileron hinge mount. The only way I can see to get the proper travel is to file a notch in the W-614 hinge to give the troubled bolt some more room. What have others done? TIA! Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 - jumping from one thing to another as parts trickle in. >> That's what I did. first try rotating the bolt for minimum interference. This is another reason you probably should have an aileron stop on the other end of the aileron, near the push rod, otherwise this bolt will become the stop which is probably not the best DLWalsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99
Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find information on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is 2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500 to 2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to 2200 yellow arc range. What I don't know is: What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the combination of all or some. I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies to the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low pitch stop) or flight operation. I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up. Cameron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Cable Slot
Date: May 03, 1999
> > >Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the rudder >cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension.. > >Kyle Boatright Kyle, Keep enlarging the slot until the plastic tubing is able to align with the line you want your rudder cable to take. It will not have to be as big if you will take something cylindrical of the size of the tubing and bend the front of the slot out and the rear of the slot in. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q N441LP Waiting on inspection 5/14 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: school bus strobes
Date: May 03, 1999
Kevin, how about posting a name and phone number for acquisition of these strobes? I assume it was ISS but a check of the Yeller Pages doesn't show this name. Thanks Marty RV6 in Nashville - Left Wing. -----Original Message----- From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:25 PM Subject: RV-List: school bus strobes > >I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c >flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system >has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression >option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. I have experienced no >noise over the radio. I ordered their cables but ended up cutting off the >plug ends and running shielded wire(3/16). The power pack runs $225 and >the sockets with bulbs $38/each. There is a high/low output option. The >moisture proof plugs it turns out are a standard GM plug. I ordered it >thru ISS which now makes Vans gauges too. I installed the sockets inside >the plexi wingtips and should have drilled a vent hole because the nice >tight fitting lens developed a blister from the heat of the bulbs despite a >3/4" clearance. The system is very rugged and well built, unlike some >brands where the bulb is mounted on a circuit board and seems flimsy. ISS >carries some smaller, 2 socket models too for around $190 I believe. Beats >Whelens hands down. kevin 6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: CHT's
In a message dated 5/3/99 1:50:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, n41va(at)Juno.com writes: << The front two cylinders are running around 335 degrees, rear cylinders 375 degrees. I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others on this. >> I had heard this from Steve Barnard on his IO-360 and put mine (O-360) in at the very start. They work great to balance the temp delta. Mine cover the entire finned head (not the barrel) height on the front two jugs. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
In a message dated 5/3/99 12:09:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pchristensen(at)sel.com writes: << First, is it really necessary to install a rudder trim and is it worth the weight? >> IMO the standard rudder wedge described in the plans is the way to go. The one on my 6A is described in detail in the archives. I take my feet off the rudders as soon as I establish climb attitude. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: school bus strobes
In a message dated 5/3/99 2:19:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sisson(at)ctnet.net writes: << I have installed school bus/dump truck strobes and after the last 50 hr x/c > flight have had good performance with them. The top rated Westar system > has 4 plugs rated at 30 joules each, quad flash, radio emission suppression > option, alternating flashes, and pulls 7 amps. >> Contact info (phone number, website) for Westar strobes please, for the Yeller Pages. thx -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: C/S Prop Limits (was re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99)
Date: May 03, 1999
>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find information >on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my >tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both >were purchased from Van's with my kit. [snip!] Funny you should ask! I just wrote an article about this for the RVator. You'll have to wait till it comes out to get the whole thing, but in a nutshell: - For your combination, there is an "avoid continuous operation" range between 2000 and 2250 RPM - The info is in the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet #P-920, which can be found at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcd5prop.htm - These limits relate to specific engine/prop combinations, and are not tied to any particular airframe, production or otherwise - The TCDS specifies a placard for this combination. I don't suppose the placard is necessarily required for homebuilts but if your FAA inspector may not agree with me. - The TCDS doesn't specify any top end limit for the prop, so I think it's safe to say that would just be the engine redline. Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing randallh(at)home.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99
> >Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find information >on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my >tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both >were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine >calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is >2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The >indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500 to >2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft >the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to >2200 yellow arc range. >What I don't know is: > What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the >combination of all or some. > I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies to >the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low >pitch stop) or flight operation. > >I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up. > >Cameron Cameron, My understanding is that the propellor manufacturer determines this caution range with the engine/prop combination on a test rig. The airframe therefore plays no part. Randall Henderson has previously posted that the 0-360 A1A with H-C2YK-1BF combination should be placarded with a "no continuous operation between 2000-2250 RPM" sign. If you check the archives I think he had an FAA web site for type certificated limitations. Cheers, Leo Davies RV6A Braxton-Hicks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99
> >> >>Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find >information >>on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my >>tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both >>were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine >>calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is >>2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The >>indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500 >to >>2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft >>the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to >>2200 yellow arc range. >>What I don't know is: >> What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the >>combination of all or some. >> I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies >to >>the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low >>pitch stop) or flight operation. >> >>I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up. >> >>Cameron > >Cameron, > >My understanding is that the propellor manufacturer determines this caution >range with the engine/prop combination on a test rig. The airframe >therefore plays no part. Randall Henderson has previously posted that the >0-360 A1A with H-C2YK-1BF combination should be placarded with a "no >continuous operation between 2000-2250 RPM" sign. If you check the archives >I think he had an FAA web site for type certificated limitations. > >Cheers, >Leo Davies Leo is right about who determines the caution range, although some of the testing might be in flight. The info is found in the FAA Propeller Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS), which lists the engines that a particular prop has been shown to be compatible with, and the required caution ranges to avoid destructive vibration. The TCDS for the H-C2YK series is found at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/p-920.pdf The archive of all prop TCDS is at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcd5prop.htm Engine TCDS (for engine operating limits, etc) are at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcds5eng.htm, the one for the O-360 is at http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/e-286.pdf Links to these, and other useful resources, are on my web site at http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks & fuselage bulkheads) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html No JPI stuff in my aircraft! - http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: anodize panel instead of paint?
In a message dated 5/3/99 9:05:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, prober(at)iwaynet.net writes: << I have seen this done before and the owner had a real problem with the different expansion rates of the aluminum subpanel and the plastic overlay. the overlay would buckle and leave huge gaps as it warped away from the panel. I hope yours works better. >> Yikes!! I didn't know it had been a problem with anyone before. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV-8 Aileron Stop
Message text written by Mike Robbins >Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The instructions say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required?< Mike, Chapter 13, Final Inspection & Preflight shows that aileron deflection should be 25-30 degrees up and 15-17 down. I don't have my plans if front of me but if I remember correctly, the stop determines the up travel and the down takes care of itself. Even if you determne that you meet these without a stop it might be a good idea to put one in. Some people feel a "hard stop" is better than the "soft stop" of stick travel. Scott A. Jordan 80331 fitting fuselage skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Edmondson" <tazman(at)lakemartin.net>
Subject: RV-6 Kit
Date: May 04, 1999
---------- From: Joe Edmondson <tazman(at)lakemartin.net> I have a RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. The empenage kit if 95% complete. The wing kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but has not been touched since. Both kits are before the pre-punched era. I did not order the electric trim or any other options. I will sell both kits for $5000.00. If you want just the empenage kit it is $900.00. The wing kit is $4000.00. I am located in east central Alabama in Dadeville. Dadeville is about eighty miles southeast of Birmingham, 120 miles southwest of Atlanta and about 50 miles northeast of Montgomery. Both kits were ordered in late 93. If I can answer any more questions Joe Edmondson tazman(at)lakemartin.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Christen Inverted Oil System
<< Hello, Before I place my order I thought I would check to see if anyone has a Christen Inverted Oil System for sale? Please reply to sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com >> Hi All: Doug Dodge sells a better, non-certificated setup. I think it's a bit cheaper, too! Call Acro Specialties at: 1-517-893-0801. Last I talked to Doug, the kit, less hoses, was $432. That being said, I'll sell ya my Christen system , so I can get one of Doug's.... Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Von, During my test period, I tried both wedges and the tabs you're talking about. I put the 4x2" (approx) on my RV6 as I flew the test period off with the plane unpainted. I didn't know if rudder trim would change with paint but, if a wedge were used and there was a trim change, it would be hard to adjust. With the kind of rudder trim you're talking about, it would be easy to adjust. I used .020" aluminum. I found, during testing, than one can get by with a smaller tab if the tab is mounted higher on the rudder (out of the "slipstream" of the horizontal stab?). I glued by tab on with silicon before painting. I made a drawing of the size and wrote down the angle the tab was bent at in case the tab departed as I didn't know how well the silicon would work. No problems after 460+ hours. Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc attached to >usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a cable >controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication. I >do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying about >a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking ones >are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of >heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the other >half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with >seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: CHT's
Von, I made a couple of these baffles on my 150 hp RV6, the width of the cylinder and about 4 inches tall. I made them this tall to allow for cutting them down to bring temps into range but didn't need to cut them down. I installed my baffles with two, #6 stainless truss head screws and nutplates which makes it easy to take them off for summer operation. The baffles do a good job of raising the temps on #1 & #2 cylinders. In warmer winter weather you may have to keep your climb out somewhat shallow to keep CHT's in the green. Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to pop >rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in front >and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the temps >on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with the >size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as close >to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of others >on this. >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com >RV-8 20 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Shielding the "P" leads
>A question about shielding. > >The manual says the P-leads should be shielded at the switch end only. I >have noticed production aircraft that have the shield grounded at the mag >(to the case itself). I know not to ground at both ends or else one may >produce a ground loop, but is there a reason to use one method over another? . . . I recommend that the ignition switch shields be used to produce a ground for the ignition switch and that the shield be grounded to airframe at the magneto or ignition box. Two reasons for this: (1) it insures that no ground loop currents flow in the shield conductor which degrades its performance as a nose attenuator. (2) should your crankcase jumper become disconnected and/or you forget to hook it back up after maintenance -AND- you try to crank the engine, the starter will seek a ground through ANY wires that might close the path between battery(-) and crankcase. If this happens to be your p-lead (or any other shields/grounds) then you get instant smoke and foul smells from under the instrument panel. Had two mechanics generate a lot of work for themselves while I owned the airport at Benton, KS about 10 years ago . . . not a pleasant sight. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Subject: Re: Beagle Aviation Shirts
Patty wrote: > > > Listers, > > At the Sun-n-Fun RV banquet I was lucky enough to win a shirt from Beagle > Aviation. I received the shirt over the weekend and it is wonderful. I > hope my RV turns out as nice as the one embroidered on the shirt. Now that > I have the shirt I better finish the plane :). > > He had many different RVs to choose from, not to mention other airplanes. > The address is www.beagleav.com. Check it out! > > Patty Gillies > gillies-patty(at)sc.edu > RV-6, Finish Kit, South Carolina I promised myself a custom shirt and hat with my type and registration marks sewn on only after my RV-6 had flown. So, at Oshkosh 97 I stopped at Beagle Aviation for my long awaited gift to myself. The hat wasn't a problem. It just said RV-6 C-GZRV. However, my airplane wasn't painted yet and I hadn't decided on a paint scheme. I looked through the examples that were displayed and picked a scheme that I found pleasing. The owner of the company, "Rob" and I sorted through the threads that he had available and the shirt was completed. The scheme is actually Rob's own RV-6 but different colors than I chose. When it came time to paint my RV in 1998 I just matched the little picture on the shirt that I have so proudly worn ever since. It was a case of spending $3000 to save from having to buy another $30 shirt. I stop buy and talk to Rob at every show and we still laugh about that. I also buy a new shirt every year:) -- Terry Jantzi Kitchener ON RV-6 C-GZRV <http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Splice Trick
>Anyone that has ever taken a "butt splice" apart that >has been exposed to the weather will remember the GREEN WIRE. RIGHT? > >Any way for the trick, dig out your old Hot Glue Gun, a >Glass of Water, and Squirt a 1/6" +or- string into the water. > >The next time you want to make a water tight "butt splice", >do the but splice as normal but put a 2" long piece of Heat >Shrink Tube on the wire first. Then cut a 2" long piece of the >glue (Dry not with water) slide the tube over the but >splice , insert the glue string, and heat. > >Not only do you have a water tight "butt splice" but >you also have a splice that is less likely to pull apart. > > >Heat Shrink can be had at any Radio Shack. This is a pretty fair appoximation of a series of double-wall heat-shrinks offered by most manufacturers of such products. We stock 1/2" double walled product with a melting sealant for the inner wall. Complete encapsulation of the joint from a "string" of hot glue might be a bit shakey if the heatshrink is a thinner variety that puts to little force on the shrink or tends to split if you have to heat it too strongly or for too long. This technique will work best with the heavier/ stiffer heatshrinks . . . I'll look into getting a variety of double-wall heatshrinks and offer them from our website catalog. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Christen Inverted Oil System
In a message dated 5/3/99 3:24:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com writes: << Before I place my order I thought I would check to see if anyone has a Christen Inverted Oil System for sale? >> Have you looked into the Acro Specialties inverted oil system? How does it compare with the Christen? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
In a message dated 5/3/99 19:32:27, moejoe3(at)home.com writes: < rudder here or there or flying a little uncoordinated when my legs get tired > may be the better solution. Any comment from those of you that don't have a > rudder trim in your RV? >> This is what I do. Works for me. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Aileron Stop
> Message text written by Mike Robbins > >Drawing 13 makes mention of an aileron stop, if required. The > instructions > say nothing about it. How do I know if this stop is required?< > > Mike, > Chapter 13, Final Inspection & Preflight shows that aileron deflection > should be 25-30 degrees up and 15-17 down. I don't have my plans if front > of me but if I remember correctly, the stop determines the up travel and > the down takes care of itself. > > Even if you determne that you meet these without a stop it might be a good > idea to put one in. Some people feel a "hard stop" is better than the > "soft stop" of stick travel. > > Scott A. Jordan > 80331 > fitting fuselage skins Van specifies an aileron stop on each wing. Both stops are to stop the up travel of each respective aileron. You need to install the stop on the outside of each inner aileron hinge bracket. You determine the location by using a protractor level set on the aileron and raising the aileron to the correct deflection. The stop will hit the inner aileron bracket. No down stop is needed since the ailerons are connected with push pull tubes and the up stop on one will determine how far the other aileron can travel downwards. BTW in Canada these stops are required. I am not sure about the States, but I'd bet on it as Canada has a record of following the States regulations. DGM RV-6 Kinda on hold as I have a wedding to pay for (and maybe another one too) this summer. Teaches me to have seven kids :-) Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Facet fuel pumps - series or parallel?
Christopher Heitman wrote: > -----Original Message----- > >You must use Facet PN 40109 which has an > >internal check valve...40108 from Vans does not have a check valve. > > I don't believe that statement is true. All Facet solid-state pumps have a > foot valve which functions as a check valve. Fuel cannot back flow on any > model. The foot valve only opens when the plunger draws a vacuum (relative > to inlet pressure) on the foot valve. The only difference between part > numbers is in details like pressure range (regulated by an internal spring), > wire configuration and port sizes (there is a version with male 6AN ports). > I don't have my Facet catalog handy, so I can't tell you the difference > between the 108 and 109 until I dig it out. If you want to see a cross > section of one of these pumps, check out their web site: > http://www.facet-purolator.com/electri.htm > > Chris Heitman > Dousman WI While I don't know why the factory engineers would make a statement about their product which isn't true, I recommend anyone thinking of using Facet pumps in parallel, as I am doing, thoroughly investigate before using 40108 from Vans for this application. My 40109 Facets work well in parallel. Will Cretsinger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin and Karla Ross" <kevin(at)hcnews.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Kit
Date: May 04, 1999
Are you nuts!!?? It's a very old kit without many of the updates and I bet the plans are archaic! Let me see $900 plus $4000 comes to $4900 last time I checked. In this kitplane business which you apparently know little about, you get nothing for your time and labor unless the entire machine is complete and flying. Info you, that wing kit "may" be worth $3000 and you might as well just throw in the tail kit assuming the workmanship is any good. There are too many similar kits available of later vintage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: CHT's
Bob; Did you notice that the back two cylinders CHT temps went down some when you blocked the two front ones? As I understand it, once all four cyls are running at similar temps, you shouldn't have to remove the front shield for summer, as that would make the spread between all the cyls uneven again, wouldn't it? Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com > >Von, > I made a couple of these baffles on my 150 hp RV6, the width of the >cylinder and about 4 inches tall. I made them this tall to allow for >cutting them down to bring temps into range but didn't need to cut >them >down. I installed my baffles with two, #6 stainless truss head screws >and >nutplates which makes it easy to take them off for summer operation. >The >baffles do a good job of raising the temps on #1 & #2 cylinders. In >warmer >winter weather you may have to keep your climb out somewhat shallow to >keep >CHT's in the green. > >Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com > > >>I talked to Dick VanGrunsven the other day at a fly-in, he said to >pop >>rivet(using soft aluminum rivets) some small aluminum shields in >front >>and block a portion of the front cylinder heads. This will make the >temps >>on those two go up, and the back two go down. He says experiment with >the >>size of these shields until you get all four cylinders running as >close >>to each other as possible. Would like to hear the experiences of >others >>on this. >>Von Alexander >>N41VA(at)juno.com >>RV-8 20 hours > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 vertical fin offset
Excellent advice, Bob. I thought about using thin double-sided tape to hold on the tab, starting with a very small one and working up in size til I get the results I need. Using a blow dryer you can remove the tabs and put a different one on. Then I can paint it and permanently attach it. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com > >Von, > > During my test period, I tried both wedges and the tabs you're >talking >about. I put the 4x2" (approx) on my RV6 as I flew the test period >off with >the plane unpainted. I didn't know if rudder trim would change with >paint >but, if a wedge were used and there was a trim change, it would be >hard to >adjust. With the kind of rudder trim you're talking about, it would >be easy >to adjust. I used .020" aluminum. I found, during testing, than one >can >get by with a smaller tab if the tab is mounted higher on the rudder >(out of >the "slipstream" of the horizontal stab?). I glued by tab on with >silicon >before painting. I made a drawing of the size and wrote down the >angle the >tab was bent at in case the tab departed as I didn't know how well the >silicon would work. No problems after 460+ hours. > >Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com > > >>Peter; Most of the RV's have just a tab or wedge of wood, etc >attached to >>usually the left side of the rudder. I don't think very many have a >cable >>controlled system, this would add unecessary weight and complication. >I >>do not have a rudder tab yet, but in high cruise my RV-8 is flying >about >>a half a ball off; I plan to add one soon. I think the best looking >ones >>are like the factory spam cans; about a 2" wide by 4" long piece of >>heavier aluminum, half of which is pop-riveted to the rudder, the >other >>half hangs off the back of the rudder and is bent as necessary with >>seaming pliers to center the rudder in normal cruise flight. >>Von Alexander >>N41VA(at)juno.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com>
Subject: Want to Buy!
Looking for a used pneumatic cleco gun. Any sellers??? Zap me offline!!! Thanks Ralph Capen RV6A Emp Dallas N822AR reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Kit
Date: May 04, 1999
Couldn't agree more! I bought into my RV-8 with a completed tail-kit, 40% done wing kit, including excellent workmanship, electric trims, 200 3/32 clecos, and a Goertz heated pitot tube. All for $3000, and the guy even helped me move it. Sylvain RV-8 #47, Fuselage on order. Bellevue, WA > > Are you nuts!!?? > > It's a very old kit without many of the updates and I bet the plans are > archaic! > > Let me see $900 plus $4000 comes to $4900 last time I checked. > > In this kitplane business which you apparently know little about, you get > nothing for your time and labor unless the entire machine is complete and > flying. > > Info you, that wing kit "may" be worth $3000 and you might as well just > throw in the tail kit assuming the workmanship is any good. There are too > many similar kits available of later vintage. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net
by mailhost.ind.ameritech.net (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP id" <19990504153315.BBBQ17677@oemcomputer>
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: rv6 jig
Phil Sisson wrote: > > > I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend. > It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it. It > will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with a > 2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West > area.. > > Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one > who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it is > free.. > Phil, I have a nice RV6 jig similar to yours stored in my barn. 4 RV's have been built on it. If you have more takers than jigs have them E-mail me. I'm located west of Indianapolis, In. and the price is right. (free) Gary Reynolds RV6A, wiring-plumbing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99
Date: May 04, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com <RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/02/99 > >Hi, I am building RV6A quick build. I am currently trying to find information >on RPM range limits. Information is needed to finish the silk screen for my >tachometer dial. My power plant is an O-360-A1A and a Hartzell HC-C2Y both >were purchased from Van's with my kit. The type certificate on the engine >calls out take off RPM 2700 and the TC on the prop shows max continous is >2700. By this information I think I need a red radial line at 2700. The >indicator I am refacing was red lined at 2550 and has a green arc from 500 to >2550 with a yellow caution arc from 2000 to 2200. I will assume the aircraft >the indicator came out of has a restriction due to harmonics at this 2000 to >2200 yellow arc range. >What I don't know is: > What dictates the yellow arc..engine..prop..airframe or the >combination of all or some. > I would also like to know if there is a caution range that applies to >the combination I have and if it applies to ground operation (on the low >pitch stop) or flight operation. > >I sure hope someone can clear this whole thing up. > >Cameron > I obtained a data sheet at the Hartzell booth at Sun&Fun. It is entitled Hartzell Kit Plane Application, Aircraft Make: Vans Aircraft Inc, RV4, RV6, RV8. Prior archives postings notwithstanding, this sheet calls out restricted bands ONLY for IO-360A1A and IO-360B engines. I suggest you call Hartzell at 937 778 4200 and obtain the data sheet for yourself. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Cable Slot
Date: May 04, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 7:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Slot > > >Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the rudder >cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension.. > >Kyle Boatright > Mine are 1 1/8 long. I drilled two holes 3/8 dia with 1 1/8 edge-to-edge and cut out in-between on connecting tangent lines. I also fashioned two right-angle tabs riveted to the aft side of F611 to hold Adel clamps at the optimum angle to captivate the rudder cable tubing guides. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Subject: Re: Folding bicycles
Date: May 04, 1999
---------- > From: RV6ator(at)aol.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Folding bicycles > Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 5:57 AM > > > If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two Dahon > folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a bit > goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are > available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220. > Can you get these in a six with tip up canopy? The baggage compartment in a tip up is a little less accessible than in a slider. I would really like to get a couple of these. Scott Sawby N 341SS Sandpoint, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Time to Build?
I am just finishing the empennage for the 8A and would like to be able to compare notes on time in building. I know that time to build will vary greatly but I would assume that percentage of time to build each sub-section would be pretty consistent? For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage, wings, and fuselage? Thanks! Len in N.C. Finishing empennage on 8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: N.C. RV Builders Group
We have three builders in the Greensboro/Winston-Salem area that are trying to meet on a regular basis. One starting fuselage on 6 and two beginning wings on 8. Anyone in the area is welcome to come. Our next meeting is May 15 not too far from the Greensboro Airport. You can contact me offline for directions or info. Lenleg(at)aol.com or call 336-434-2124 Len ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: CHT's
>I had heard this from Steve Barnard on his IO-360 and put mine (O-360) in at >the very start. They work great to balance the temp delta. Mine cover the >entire finned head (not the barrel) height on the front two jugs. I had recently done this for my PA-16 (it was done on one side and not the other). It did improve things. I did put a curved baffle covering part of fins on the cylinder barrel as well as the head. The goal is to get more consistent airflow around the cylinder barrel in order to prevent big temperature differentials around the circumfrence of the barrel. Why didn't you do this for your baffling? (I am not trying to say you are wrong or to pick a fight. I just want to find out if you know something I don't so I have more data to work from.) BTW, friday I was over at LVK with the CJ-6 and saw an RV-6 pushed out of one of the NE hangars with a bunch of people hanging out (it must have been around 7PM). Was that you and your airplane? Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
>what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more >capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on >air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other >bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as >well. > >Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to >"unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such >systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies. > >He showed me his 2 meter handheld which was modified to transmit within the >legal bandwidth requirements on all the frequencies it could recieve on (the >mod was done at a ham show). He doesn't fly but he is a boater so now he >can leave his marine only transceiver at home and still have all his marine >capabilities plus all the capabilities available to legal ham radio >operators. Legality of this aside, there are technical reasons why this won't work for aviation. Boats and 2M amateur radio typically use narrow-band frequency modulation (NBFM). Aviation used amplitude modulation (AM or "ancient mode" to us hams). An amateur radio 2M handheld may be modified to transmit in the aviation band but its signal will probably not be intelligible (I know, someone is going to chime in with a comment about slope detection of FM with an AM receiver but that doesn't count). This is further confused by the fact that many of the current crop of amateur radio hand-held radios tune the "air band" (108-137 MHz) and have AM detectors. Rest assured that they do NOT have AM transmitters. So, while a 2M handheld might be useful as a secondary receiver (I carry my Icom IC-T8 just for that reason) it will never be useful as a transmitter no matter what I do to it. >You can get a novice ham license relatively easily these days which will >give you a legal ham call sign. If you are with you plane in the US you can >use the TX function. Actually, you really want to get a Technician class license. This gives you all amateur radio privileges on 50 MHz and above. This is also the only class of license that does not require you to learn the Morse code. >Checkout Icom and Yaesu's multiband transceivers. You may find them very >appealing in both cost and functionality as compared to aircraft only comm >units. Especially if all you really want is a good scanner/emergency >device. I agree with you 100% on this one. ICOM, Yaesu, Alinco, Standard, Kenwood, and others have some really slick little hand-held radios. We found the little Alinco credit-card radios (literally the size of a credit card and only slightly thicker) to be great for use at Oshkosh last year. They tune the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use them to communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the Fly Market or to coordinate getting back together for lunch. 73 de WB6RQN Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: "Gary kozinski" <Kozinski(at)symbol.com>
Subject: VHF Airband Tranceiver
Regarding modifying ham type transceiver for use in marine and airband. The manufacturers are not pulling the wool over our eyes guys and screwing us. The problem not discussed is that airbands radios are AM (Amplitude Modulated) and all other ham/marine/public service bands are FM (Frequency Modulated). You could receive AM signals on an FM receiver but the audio would be fuzzy or unreadable. Likely, if your transmit an AM signal and try to listen to it on and FM received, the receptioin would also be fuzzy to unreadable. Therefore, modifying a ham type transciever won't work properly in the aircraft bands. It's not worth relying on in a emergency situation. The ham and aircraft radio might look the same with minor differences inside with a big price difference on the outside. The price difference reflects the lower volume of sales in the aircraft market. There might be some high end transceivers that operate both FM and AM that could be considered. Gary K1GK RV-6, 20038, N38GK reserved. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: CHT's
Date: May 04, 1999
listers, i understand that you would want to try to minimize the EGT variation between cylinders for better leaning and fuel economy. would it also make a difference in the "smoothness" of the engine running? as for CHT, is it necessary to minimize that variation (or "spread") too? let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within limits, isn't that ok? why does the spread matter? (i suspect that any CHT spread is going to be highly correlated with an EGT spread. is that true?) ok, so let's assume CHT spread does matter...now let's say you partially block off the front cylinders. i don't know what will happen, so maybe someone with real world experience will tell us, but if the CHT for all cylinders is now Y, then all we really did was make the cooling airflow less efficient, thereby raising the CHT of the front cylinders. however, if the CHT of the rear cylinders is lowered, while the front CHT's increase, so now all cylinders read the average of X and Y. that would indicate to me that we made a genuine improvement in the baffling. so which is it? thanks, louis cappucci rv-6a qb inventorying finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Subject: Re: High Oil Temps.
Date: May 04, 1999
> I have long been troubled with urban legend that goes "wrap a spring around > the exhaust pipe to get more heat out of the heat muff". When I calculate > the contact area of the spring I obtain a fractional area of less than 1% of > the exhaust pipe useful radiating area. Similarly when I calculate the > radiating area of the spring I get only a few percent at most augmentation, > which would not account for the fantastic claims. The contact area between the spring and the exhaust pipe is so small that the conductive heat exchange between the two would be negligible. I suspect that the radiative heat exchange is the explanation. "Emissivity equals absorptivity" This means that if a substance is a good emitter at a particular wave length, it is also a good absorber at that wave length. The exhaust pipe and the spring are essentially the same material (steel). The exhaust pipe is radiating a lot of heat at some wavelengths in the infrared portion of the spectrum and the coil spring is efficient at absorbing this energy at these wavelengths. The coil spring would heat up in there even if there was no contact between it and the exhaust pipe. Scott Sawby N341SS Sandpoint, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Rudder Cable Slot
Date: May 04, 1999
>Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the >rudder >cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension.. > >Kyle Boatright I think I drilled a hole to get the cable assy trhought, then took a round rod & very lightly bent one surface out & the other in. Wasn't very ppreaty but I covered it with Georges lettle covers. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Time to Build?
Date: May 04, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Lenleg(at)aol.com <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Date: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 12:01 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Time to Build? > ? > >For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage, wings, >and fuselage? > >Thanks! > >Len in N.C. Len, I am building a 6A and have completed my tail, wings, and have the feselage in the jig. 1230 hrs. to date. This includes all fiberglass tips and landing lights. I consider myself to be an "average" builder as far as time goes. Tail kit -250 hrs. Wings- 850 hrs. Fuselage (bulkheads, seat ribs and baggage ribs)- 130 hrs. Hope this helps Tommy Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Phil Sisson <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: rv6 jig
Ok Gary, I may know of a guy who needs one. They can be cut in two bu making a cut right behind 606. I think, I would have too go look, but it is right behind the middle legs. I hauled mine from Seattle and splice it back together. just remember to add the saw kurf, about an 1/8 inch. With 3 inch deck screws it is solid as before. Anyway I'll let them all know about it... Phil out of the jig this weekend... "greynoldsn98(at)mailhost.ind.ameritech.net by mailhost.ind.ameritech.net (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP id" wrote: > > Phil Sisson wrote: > > > > > > I will have an RV6 jig freeing up this coming weekend. > > It is wood like in the drawings. mine is the 2nd or third fuselage off of it. It > > will fit in a pickup truck because it has been sawed in two and is joined with a > > 2x6 splice joints and deck screws. Would be ideal for some one in the Mid-West > > area.. > > > > Phil at Litchfield, IL email me if interested or if you know of some one > > who needs one. And in accordance with the great tradition of RV builders, it is > > free.. > > > Phil, > I have a nice RV6 jig similar to yours stored in my barn. 4 RV's have > been built on it. If you have more takers than jigs have them E-mail me. > I'm located west of Indianapolis, In. and the price is right. (free) > Gary Reynolds RV6A, wiring-plumbing > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 rudder trim
>I thought about using thin double-sided tape to hold on the tab, starting with >a very small one and working up in size til I get the results I need. You may think about making a big one and trimming it down to the size you need. That way you may only have to make one. Mine is about 1 1/2" by 6", less than a 1/4" thick at the trailing edge and is mounted with the TOP of the wedge at the midpoint of the trailing edge of the rudder; out of the interfering wake of the horizontal. I started with a wood wedge held on with 200 mph tape; looked UGLY, worked well without much fuss. Successively trimmed it (easily filed down) both in length and thickness. After I found the right size, the real one was taped on for the final test and then riveted in place with countersunk pull rivets. Less obtrusive than the sticking-out metal tab, but once it's on, it's on; changes would be more labor intensive. Will the trim change with paint? I wouldn't think so, but others may know for sure. I've seen the wedge made of wood (sealed with spar varnish and painted), Plexiglass, Lexan and aluminum (both solid and sheet bent to shape). There are probably other things you could use. Make sure it is able to take paint; Nylon is not a good choice for that reason. Of course, since it is about as far aft as something could go, the lighter the better. Is going without an ugly tab and flying a little out of plum OK? I suppose. I find myself subconsiously pushing on the offending rudder, just because it 'feels' better in my feeble little brain to fly in trim. I wind up with a sore leg at the end of a trip. That's just me. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Flying hands and feet off..... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Randy Riggles <RANDY.RIGGLES(at)ROCHE.COM>
Subject: Fuel Gage
RV'ers Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that would be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the Cockpit, maybe making it simpler. Randy Riggles e-mail Rkr0101(at)aol.com RV8 in Indianapolis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: CHT's
> >listers, > >i understand that you would want to try to minimize the EGT variation >between cylinders for better leaning and fuel economy. would it also make a >difference in the "smoothness" of the engine running? There is not a lot of correlation between the CHT and EGT, i.e. changing the CHT by improving baffling or airflow doesn't have a significant effect on EGT because EGT is primarily controled by mixture. Therefore, there should be no effect on smoothness. (Yes, I know that the EGT is not the same as combustion temperature because of heat transfer to the cylinder walls, head, valves, and upstream exhaust pipe but the delta-T is so great that we can pretty much ignore this.) >as for CHT, is it necessary to minimize that variation (or "spread") too? >let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear >cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within >limits, isn't that ok? why does the spread matter? (i suspect that any CHT >spread is going to be highly correlated with an EGT spread. is that true?) CHT will vary with EGT because you are transfering more heat to the cylinder, piston, and head when you increase the EGT so you will see an increase in CHT with an increase in EGT _at_the_same_power_setting_. Just decreasing RPM (constant speed prop) will cause the EGT to decrease and the CHT to increase (slightly). >ok, so let's assume CHT spread does matter...now let's say you partially >block off the front cylinders. i don't know what will happen, so maybe >someone with real world experience will tell us, but if the CHT for all >cylinders is now Y, then all we really did was make the cooling airflow less >efficient, thereby raising the CHT of the front cylinders. however, if the >CHT of the rear cylinders is lowered, while the front CHT's increase, so now >all cylinders read the average of X and Y. that would indicate to me that we >made a genuine improvement in the baffling. so which is it? That is my question too. The problem is that our CHT guages measure CHT only at one point on the cylinder. We don't get to see the temperature distribution across the whole cylinder. If you think about it, the base of the cylinder is at the temperature of the case (very close to oil temperature) which is stone cold when compared to the cylinder head itself. Even on the cylinder head the temperature varies radically. If you have a CHT thermocouple that goes on your spark plug (gasket type thermocouple) it will probably read 20F-30F higher than the well-type thermocouple. So the goal is to try to reduce temperature variations across the cylinder assembly and where we do have temperature variations to make them as smooth and continuous as possible in order to reduce thermally induced stresses in the materials. Given the different coefficients of expansion for the various pieces, e.g. aluminum heads and pistons expand more with delta-T than does the steel barrel, we want the whole assembly to operate at the design temperature in order to have the design clearances. As I recall, Lycoming considers a cylinder head temperature of 350F - 375F to be just about optimum. So, if we can get the back cylinder down from 400F to 360F and get the front cylinders up from 320F to 360F we should see better wear characteristics and longevity from the top end. We should also strive to have a smooth temperature differential across the cylinder barrel itself. That is how I understand it. Your milage may vary. The big question is, "does it really make a difference?" Heck if I know. I just rebuilt (a year ago now) the O-320-D2J in my RV-4 after it went almost 2600 hours, the first 2000 hours of which were in a C-172 at a flight school and the last 600 hours were in the RV-4 with stock baffling. The engine went all the way to 2600 hours with only normal maintenance (no repairs, no top overhauls). When I tore it down it was clear that the engine could have run for probably a couple hundred more hours if I had left it alone. So maybe we are just making a mountain out of a molehill. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
Date: May 04, 1999
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >i originally started the thread and here's what i've found to this point. > >what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more >capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on >air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other >bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as >well. > >Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to >"unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such >systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies. > >He showed me his 2 meter handheld which was modified to transmit within the >legal bandwidth requirements on all the frequencies it could recieve on (the >mod was done at a ham show). He doesn't fly but he is a boater so now he >can leave his marine only transceiver at home and still have all his marine >capabilities plus all the capabilities available to legal ham radio >operators. > > It is often fairly easy to modify portable ham transeivers to be able to transmit over most of their receive range. Almost always the air band is the exception. The reason for this is probably mostly because the air band is AM and nothing else on the radio is. A sorta AM detector is simpler than including an AM transmitter in a small radio with little or no need for it. I have a very small radio (Yaesu VX-1R) that is able to transmit at low power on the aircraft band. I intend to use this radio exclusively in my 6 to listen to the ball game (AM broadcast band, listen to music (FM broadcast band), listen to other sporting events and news (TV band), chat with other hams (VHF and UHF ham bands), to communicate with local law enforcement agencies while using my airplane for searches (VHF public service band and yes I have done this before, this is the boonies), and in emergencies to monitor atc and possibly to talk with them with back up battery power built in. I think that is a lot for a tiny $300 transeiver. The transmit mod involves surface mount devices and I am not willing to give lessons in how to do it. If you choose to go this, possibly illegal, route please get a local ham to help you. Larry Pardue N5LP Carlsbad, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Folding bicycles
Date: May 04, 1999
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >> >> >> If you would like to have wheels when you get where you are going, two >Dahon >> folding bikes fit neatly in the baggage compartment of a SIX. They are a >bit >> goofy looking, but a real pleasure to ride. They weigh 28lbs and are >> available from Aircraft Spruce or most TAP vendors for around $220. >> >Can you get these in a six with tip up canopy? The baggage compartment in >a tip up is a little less accessible than in a slider. I would really like >to get a couple of these. > Two Brompton's are lost in an RV-6 luggage compartment and easy to get in a tip-up. Also IMHO they are much better bicycles. Of course they are also more expensive. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q N441LP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC" <cabodijmfc(at)datasys.com.ar>
Subject: Tool to sense torque
Date: May 04, 1999
I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea? Pablo ARGENTINA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
Another thought on this subject, Icom makes a mobile radio known as the IC-706. This is primarily an HF rig (3-30 MHz) but also has 2M VHF operation. Its receiver tunes from about 100 KHz to 200 MHz. As such it can be used to listen to NDBs, AM broadcast, aeronautical HF (planning an ocean crossing?), shortwave broadcast, FM broadcast, the standard VHF nav (108-118 MHz), and comm (118-137 MHz) frequencies. This radio may be "convinced" to transmit on almost all its receive frequencies including the VHF comm frequencies. Many pilots who make a living out of ferrying airplanes across oceans make use of rigs like this for their HF capability. What makes this radio even more interesting is that it supports all transmission modes including AM (USB, LSB, AM, and NBFM). Now it may only put out a couple of watts on the VHF comm frequencies but that may be sufficient to establish communications in a pinch. The whole radio is about the size of a KX-155 and the "guts" may be detached from the front panel and mounted elsewhere (like under the floor or back in the baggage compartment). This may be just the right "second" radio in your RV especially if you are a ham. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Time to Build?
> >For you guys pretty far along, what would you say about the empennage, > wings, > >and fuselage? > Tail kit -250 hrs. > Wings- 850 hrs. > Fuselage (bulkheads, seat ribs and baggage ribs)- 130 hrs. As I've found them, I've recorded various people's build times... they're available at <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/btime.htm>. If other people post their times here, I'll add them to the page. The first column of times on my page comes from Sam Buchanan -- I still find them incredible. My own build times are quite close to Tommy's above... Emp 250 (complete except for tips), Wings 758 (complete except for tips), Fuselage 261 (bulkheads complete, about half-way through drilling skins to skeleton). Frank. -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SAABPILOT(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: CHT's
If you know how could you please take me off this list! I have been trying and can't seem to get out of this . thanks saabpilot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Tool to sense torque
Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC wrote: > I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I > cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure > what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets > for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea? That's 20-25 inch-pounds. Torque is force (aka weight) times distance. You can buy inch-pound torque wrenches from tool suppliers like Avery, but they're expensive (and may take a while to get to Argentina). Instead, you can make your own. 24 inch-pounds = 3 pounds * 8 inches, so make a mark on your socket wrench handle 8 inches from the centre of the hex head of the nut/bolt. Buy a small fish scale, (the spring weighing type, not the kind off the side of the fish!). Calibrate this by hanging 3 pounds of something (water, butter, whatever) off it, and mark where the pointer indicates. Hook the scale onto your wrench at the position you marked (I wrapped masking tape round the wrench either side of the mark to stop it slipping). Pull at right-angles to the wrench until the scale pointer gets to your calibrated mark... Voila! 24 inch-pounds. If your socket handle isn't 8 inches long then you could use 4.5 pounds * 5 inches or any other combination of weight and distance that multiplies to 20-25. The scale's spring will probably weaken over time, especially if the scale is cheap. Therefore, recalibrate it periodically. Incidentally, 20-25 inch-pounds is surprisingly little. Don't tighten down the nuts with a spanner. Frank. -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Check Six! to visit the Kansas City RV-Ators
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers! Check Six! will be visiting the Kansas City RV-Ators fly-in. We look forward to seeing everyone there!! Team Rocket, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Tool to sense torque
<< I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea? >> Harbor freight carries a baby torque wrench for ~$25. Check the yeller pages for contact info. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: CHT's
Von, I didn't notice that the temps on the rear cylinders dropped with the addition of baffles in front of cylinders 1 & 2. I have a GEM Insight monitor that uses light bars, with each bar representing 25 degrees on the CHT's so don't have precise temp readouts. Under 20 degrees F., cylinder #1 was very cool, on the neighborhood of 125-150 degrees. #2 cylinder was slightly warmer. #3 cylinder has always been the hottest running cylinder. I found that, if I left the front baffles on in warm weather, that all of the cylinders would rise in temp. Long climb outs, multiple touch & gos, etc would cause CHT's to rise to uncomfortable levels. At reduced throttle in warmer weather, cylinders 1 & 2 still run a bit cooler than 3 & 4 but there isn't as much difference between the front and rear cylinders as there is in the winter without baffles installed. At full throttle at 7,500 and above, leaned for best power, the CHT's are very even as are the EGT's. At reduced throttle settings, the EGT's on carbed engines are very uneven. Bob Skinner RV-6 463 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >Bob; Did you notice that the back two cylinders CHT temps went down some >when you blocked the two front ones? As I understand it, once all four >cyls are running at similar temps, you shouldn't have to remove the front >shield for summer, as that would make the spread between all the cyls >uneven again, wouldn't it? >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed)
Use http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire (switch the "l" and "d") Very nice Bob!! >> >>I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of >>shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies >>in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to >>click on . . . >> >> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire >> >> >> Bob . . . >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Crank question from Shelby Smith re: MN RV Forum
Date: May 04, 1999
Shelby, Regarding your question: Did the Yellow tagged crank come from Nelson grinding in New Bedford, Mass? I called Dick Waters and he said the crank came from Power Aviation in Orlando. He knew about the problem with the Nelson cranks, but got a heads up early on and luckily was able to avoided them. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A Niantic, CT Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: brietig(at)ibm.net
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage
Randy Riggles wrote: > RV'ers > > Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be > mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm > wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that would > be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the > Cockpit, maybe making it simpler. > Randy, you need to get in touch with John Marshall who lives just south of Indianapolis. He is just finishing an RV-8 with the guages you describe. Sorry, I don't have John's address or phone number handy. Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: CHT's
In a message dated 5/4/99 11:01:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com writes: << let's say that in cruise the front cylinders have a CHT of X, and the rear cylinders have a CHT of Y, which is higher than X. if they are both within limits, isn't that ok? >> Louis I am no expert, but it would seem to me that if you could maintain the operating CHT for all cylinder heads within a narrow band, that this would have at least "some" effect on how your cylinders wear over time. Maybe there is a possibility that within certain operating limits, the cylinder wear would tend to be more even also. I would think that, especially on an engine with only four cylinders, that this could cause the engine to run smoother until such time as an overhaul is required. Does anybody have any experience with certain cylinders, possibly the ones that were running hottest, needing service earlier in the life of the engine??? do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Instrument spacing
Guys, While waiting on my finish kit I'd like to be making some progress so thought it would be a good time to start cutting holes in my panel. I have a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and if so any problems? Note that I dont have the instruments in hand - cant afford them yet, but RMI has told me that interference wont be an issue. I'd just like some confirmation before cutting metal. Mike Wills RV-4 waiting for finish kit willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: rivet size
riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage
Date: May 04, 1999
Randy, I don't, but when we were at S-N-F we saw the new gagues from Van's on the RV-8A. They looked great and are suppose to be about $50 for the pair with the senders. You may want to consider them and keep your wing clean. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A Niantic, CT ******************* >From: Randy Riggles <RANDY.RIGGLES(at)ROCHE.COM> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Fuel Gage >Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 13:07:28 -0500 > > > RV'ers > > Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be > mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? I'm > wondering if anyone has mounted this type of gage in each wing that >would > be viewable from the cockpit. This would replace the gages in the > Cockpit, maybe making it simpler. > > Randy Riggles > e-mail Rkr0101(at)aol.com > RV8 in Indianapolis > > > > > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "marty" <martinheisler(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
Date: May 04, 1999
can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty -----Original Message----- From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> Date: Tuesday, 04 May 1999 08:52 PM Subject: RV-List: Instrument spacing > >Guys, > While waiting on my finish kit I'd like to be making some progress so >thought it would be a good time to start cutting holes in my panel. I have >a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center >spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search >of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure >panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and >if so any problems? Note that I dont have the instruments in hand - cant >afford them yet, but RMI has told me that interference wont be an issue. >I'd just like some confirmation before cutting metal. > >Mike Wills >RV-4 waiting for finish kit >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Team Rocket attains OEM Pricing
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers! In a continued effort to provide quality parts at the best prices available, Team Rocket has acquired OEM pricing from the following companies: Hartzell Propellers (props, governors, spinners) Sensenich Propellers (props) Lycoming Engines Barry Controls (isolators) Aero Instrument Comp. (pitot tubes) Unlimited Quality Products (insulation, glue) As we continue to bring on board more companies that are supporting the Team Rocket effort, we will keep you all informed. Team Rocket, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
>I have >a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center >spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search >of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure >panel rigidity and avoid interference. I set up my panel on a CAD program and then spaced my instruments evenly. The nice thing about this approach is that you can "play" with the layout until you are happy and not have to make a new panel when you make a mistake. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: RV4 Kit for sale
I have an RV4 kit, partially built for sale. Tail section is built, wings are built, fuselage is still in the jig ready to be skinned. Finish kit has not been ordered. Workmanship is good, and asking price is $11,500. Please call 561-748-2429. Thanks, Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Registration stuff
Date: May 04, 1999
G'day RVers, I just received the "Aircraft (Kit) Bill of Sale" from Van's so that I may continue with the registration of my reserved "N" number. I noticed that at the top, it asks for the sale price. So, what do I put here? The total cost of all four subkits? Also, is this dollar figure used by the various state jackbooted-gestapo taxation organizations to assess a tax? If so, do you think they'd believe I bought the kit for $1.95? OK, maybe not. Your sage advice is appreciated. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD "P" leads, and cables. Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)earthlink.net>
Elford
Subject: Airboat engine
John wrote --- >I found a core O-320 out of an airboat. It is a wide deck O-320-E2H. I plan on tearing it down and massaging the internals myself if I buy it. The 150 hp rating is a moot point as I will be cranking the compression up during overhaul. The only thing that really bothers me is the fixed pitch only design. I basically have two questions for all in cyber-land: 1 - Is an airboat engine a good choice to install in an airplane? After years of operation in close proximity to water and humidity will it be irrepairably damaged in any way? 2 - What parts must be exchanged to make it C/S prop compatible? Obviously the crank will need to go, but what about accessory case, etc? Any thoughts good and bad would be much appreciated. Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Flaps/Ailerons Be *real* careful out there! I've heard lots of stories of unairworthy parts being bought and put into airboats from sources I consider reliable, and then to put those in an airplane... One man I knew told me of having bought two engines that turned out to be ex-airboat. He survived his forced landings, but the other engine caused a fatality. Don't recall the details, but it was first person. Ed Wischmeyer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ARC(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage
Mooney makes a gauge that fits on an inspection plate on the upper fuel tank that is visible from the cockpit. Good Luck Bob Rv6a & Mooney ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Tool to sense torque
Pablo, Sears sells a "click-type" torque wrench here in the states for about $50 US that goes down to 25 inch-lbs, however, you can back it off another 5 in-lbs to 20. I'm looking at mine as I write this and it has what I guess is the model number, 5980311748, stamped on the barrel. I have been using it on my 8 empennage. Good luck, Andy Johnson, Boca Raton, Florida, building flaps and ailerons (first). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rv4flyer" <rv4mike(at)access1.net>
Subject: RV4 Electric flap retrofit
Date: May 04, 1999
Anyone out there do a manual to electric flap conversion on a RV4. What is all involved as far as the installation? I know the weldment need to be altered. How does the electric flap drive opperate? Any Info? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
Date: May 04, 1999
I did the same thing in white posterboard with posterboard stick-ons. Cheap and easy! Love my panel, Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST final details in engine and electrics > >I set up my panel on a CAD program and then spaced my instruments evenly. >The nice thing about this approach is that you can "play" with the layout >until you are happy and not have to make a new panel when you make a mistake. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
In a message dated 5/4/99 6:09:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil writes: << I have a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and if so any problems? >> Mine are on 3.550" centers with the stock .0625" thick panel and this is pretty tight IMO. I would think that 3.375" would be "line to line" with some instrument cases. Not real good design practice. Since the hole should be a little greater in diameter than the gauge (approximately 3.150"), this would only leave .225" tangent to tangent. Those of you with AutoCAD release 14 can have the file on my 6A slider for the asking. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: CHT's
In a message dated 5/4/99 10:55:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, brian(at)lloyd.com writes: << BTW, friday I was over at LVK with the CJ-6 and saw an RV-6 pushed out of one of the NE hangars with a bunch of people hanging out (it must have been around 7PM). Was that you and your airplane? >> No. Mine looks better and has the little wheel up front where physics wants it. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Myrv6(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: test
testing 123 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
<< << I have a lay out that Im happy with but in one case I will have a center to center spacing of 3.375" inches (between RMI uEncoder and turn-and-bank). A search of the archives indicates this is an absolute minimum spacing to ensure panel rigidity and avoid interference. Anyone used this tight spacing and if so any problems? >> >> 3.375" is the MINIMUM spacing, and is often used with 0.090 aluminum, as opposed to the 0.060 used in RV panels (RV-6's, anyway, can't speak for the others). I put my instruments on 3 5/8" centers, and still thought there was an awful lot of flex. Kyle Boatright RV-6 Canopy Installation, Wiring Runs, fiberglass, interior fabric selection, etc, etc, etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: COPANDENGR(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
I am an advanced class amateur radio operator building an RV-6. For the information of those regarding the modified VHF trancievers used by hams, it must be pointed out that they are FM only radios. Also you need at least a " No Code Technician " license to legally use one. A novice ticket does not have 2 meter priveledges. Modifying the radio to go "out of band" will also void the warranty. J.R. Coleman N5XYY. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Dave <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: rivet size
Total thinkness of the material plus add 1.5 times the rivet diameter should give you the approximate rivet length. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Empennage Bonnyville, AB Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Bob Paulovich wrote: > > riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar > (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there > a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in > arkansas > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit
I ordered the complete kit which included a new actuator lever. Essentially you locate the flap motor assembly in the center bay underneath the pilots seat. Everything is included in the kit except the circuit breaker. The instructions are straight forward and easy to follow. You will need some help with dimpling the bottom skin of the aircraft in order to accept flush rivets that attach one of the motor/arm assembly. Not a big job. Can be done in one weekend. rv4flyer wrote: > > Anyone out there do a manual to electric flap conversion on a RV4. What is > all involved as far as the installation? I know the weldment need to be > altered. How does the electric flap drive opperate? Any Info? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit
Mike: It is very simple if you buy the kit. The modification to the weldment is the difficult part.. The installation envolves mounting the motor drive, connecting it to two parellel flat pieces of .125 that act as an arm that pushes the weldment from under the seat webs. So... instead of using the lever upstairs you are activating a motor down below. It installed in about 3 hours during building. Probably a day's work if you have to take out the seats, etc. If you have a fax machine I will fax you the instructions and drawings that come with the kit. Dave Aronson, Finish kit, RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: COPANDENGR(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Strobe power supplies
Regarding the strobe lights used on school buses, Wheelen makes several power supplies ranging from 4 outlets to 8, and some of them are programmable as to flash pattern. They are designed for heavy duty use for police and other emergency vehicles. The prices are quite reasonable. The cables running from the power supplies to the strobe light itself are heavily shielded and in numerous installations on police cars and ambulances I have never had any interference or stray RF problems. The bulbs themselves are the exact same ones Wheelen uses in their TSO'ed aircraft units, only the mounting base is different. Check out a police supply company called Galls for info, or look up Wheelen's web site. J.R. Coleman, building the wings RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com>
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
lucky macy wrote: > > > i originally started the thread and here's what i've found to this point. > > what a ham friend showed me over the weekend is how you can take a MUCH more > capable and CHEAPER priced multi band transciever not meant to transmit on > air or marine bands (but can receive them as well as a whole bunch of other > bands) and modify the system so it CAN transmit on those frequencies as > well. > > Apparently it's not that big a deal if you know what you are doing to > "unmodify" the artificial roadblocks the manufacturers put in to such > systems to keep one from transmitting on certian frequencies. Oh, my! Well, they certainly can RECEIVE Amplitude Modulated aircraft communications, but they ONLY TRANSMIT FM MODULATION. Pure FM to an AM receiver sounds like a dead carrier. Now, I have speculated (earlier tonight with some of my technical colleagues, in fact), that an FM ham band transceiver *might* have enough AM component in its signal to be heard by an AM receiver, but I have not had the opportunity to try it. If it worked, it would probably sound like it had extremely weak modulation. Also, what works on one transceiver *might not* work on another. Then there's the problem of interfacing it to the radio system, which is worked out pretty well on most of the airband handhelds. It's your $500 crap shoot. Bet I'm not the only reply to this.... I have 75 more messages to go. Good luck. 73. Tom (I'd try it before I'd buy it) Glover Ham Radio VE7DQ, Career Radio Tech, Boatanchor guy, etc. etc. RV-6A Surrey BC Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tool to sense torque
Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC wrote: > > > I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I > cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not sure > what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets > for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea? > > Pablo > ARGENTINA > Pablo, Others have noted that 25 inch pounds is the recommended torque and offered good suggestions. I will just add that 25 inch pounds can easily be achieved using a nutdriver (I don't know if this term is common in Argentina, a 'nutdriver' is like a screwdriver, but with a socket at the tip instead of a blade). Blake ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com>
Subject: Re: Portable VHF's
Brian Lloyd wrote: They tune the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use them to communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the Fly Market or to coordinate getting back together for lunch. > > 73 de WB6RQN So, what frequency are we going to chat on at OSH this year? Tom Glover VE7DQ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage
> Randy Riggles wrote: > > > RV'ers > > > > Does anyone know of a manufacture of a mechanical fuel gage that can be > > mounted in each wing with direct access (float) to the fuel level? The latest Aircraft Spruce catalog has such a mechanical gauge on page 152. $39.50 each. P/N 05-16700. Weldable adapter flanges, P/N 10361 are $10.45. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: RV4 Electric flap retrofit
Date: May 05, 1999
You can also order a new weldment from Van's for a very reasonable fee. Saves the work of modifying your old one. Regards, Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST with electric flaps >Mike: > >It is very simple if you buy the kit. The modification to the weldment is the >difficult part. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Subject: rivet size
Date: May 05, 1999
Bob, the plans usually say somewhere the TYPE of rivet to use if you look hard enough, but for length, never trust the plans, as we have discussed many times before. I'm sure lots of people use the "1.5" rule, etc., I always use my trusty Avery rivet guage to determine length. It's fast, simple, and cheap. Peter Christensen RV-6A Wing on order Pittsburgh, PA > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Paulovich [SMTP:jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net] > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:48 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: rivet size > > > riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar > (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there > a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in > arkansas > > > > > - > > - > > - > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirkpatrick, Pat W" <pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com>
Subject: Registration stuff
Date: May 05, 1999
Brian, I just left mine blank. I don't think the FAA cares how much you bought it for, just that you bought it leagally. for the state of NM they hit you only for registration. It works out to about 2 cents a pound based on the max gross weight. for new A/C and declines steadily based on age of the airframe. My registration cost $37 for the first year. Havn't heard anything about any other taxes for us. Pat Kirkpatrick RV-6A FLYER -----Original Message----- From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Registration stuff G'day RVers, I just received the "Aircraft (Kit) Bill of Sale" from Van's so that I may continue with the registration of my reserved "N" number. I noticed that at the top, it asks for the sale price. So, what do I put here? The total cost of all four subkits? Also, is this dollar figure used by the various state jackbooted-gestapo taxation organizations to assess a tax? If so, do you think they'd believe I bought the kit for $1.95? OK, maybe not. Your sage advice is appreciated. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD "P" leads, and cables. Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Folding bicycles
The Dahon bikes fit just fine into the baggage compartment of my SIX with a pop up canopy. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Amateur Radio at OSH
> >Brian Lloyd wrote: > >They tune the air band so you can listen to the tower and you can use >them to communicate with your buddies about jewels to be found at the >Fly Market or to coordinate getting back together for lunch. >> >> 73 de WB6RQN > >So, what frequency are we going to chat on at OSH this year? Last year our little group used something like 147.500 simplex. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: rivet size
Date: May 05, 1999
Bob: If you are working on a 6, upper right corner of drwg 3a. This is a guide to not only the HS, but the rest of the project. As far a length goes use your 1.5d rule always. some may be long or short from the call outsm & if you choose to you can trim a long one to fit. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com. > >riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear >spar >(hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is >there >a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in >arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: ICOM ham rig modification
Darn. Someone wrote to me asking about making the Icom IC-706 able to transmit on the aviation comm bands, both HF and VHF, and I managed to misplace the message so I am posting the info here. The information about the IC-706, and many other radios as well, is located at: http://www.pantherco.com/radiorepair/radio_modification_files_at_qrz.htm There is info about both the IC-706 and the IC-706mkII there. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Cable Slot
Kyle, my slot is 1 1/2 inch long. Be aware that the cable fairing completely hides the hole, so depending on the length of your fairing, the hole can be longer or shorter. After I had spent a number of hours fabricating my fairings, I ran accross a picture on Sam Buchannan's web site. It is a clean and simple alternative to the standard fairing. Look at the picture if you haven't ordered your stuff yet. Tom Barnes -6 fuse -----Original Message----- From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 8:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Slot > > >Any suggestions on how long the slot in the fuselage should be for the rudder >cable exit on an RV-6?? Can't seem to find a dimension.. > >Kyle Boatright > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: rivet size
Bob Paulovich wrote: > > > riveting skel of HS. in riveting the hs 405 and hs 608 to the rear spar > (hs 603), i can not find rivet size in plans or in directions. is there > a rule of thumb or am i missing in plans/directions??? help!! bob in > arkansas > Bob, Start with an AN470AD4-7 and use a rivet length gauge to check length. If you don't have a rivet length gauge, the rivet should extend at least 3/16". If the -7 is too short, go up to a -8 and measure again. Use the rivet diameters called for, but always measure the length and adjust to proper length. Van's length call outs are a little short sometimes. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ToBuild(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 05/03/99
Thank You Randall I have found the TCDS and the limits I needed, my instrument shop is sending the faceplate this friday for silk screening. Again Thank You Cameron ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ICOM ham rig modification
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Brian, Thanks. Just what I needed. Carl Froehlich, KV4U Vienna, VA RV-8A N716RV (reserved) Finishing last few odds and ends on the wings >Darn. Someone wrote to me asking about making the Icom IC-706 able to >transmit on the aviation comm bands, both HF and VHF, and I managed to >misplace the message so I am posting the info here. > >The information about the IC-706, and many other radios as well, is located >at: > >http://www.pantherco.com/radiorepair/radio_modification_files_at_qrz.htm > >There is info about both the IC-706 and the IC-706mkII there. > > >Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies >brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 >http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 >+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net>
Subject: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else ?
Date: May 05, 1999
I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000 hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I am 42 years old. Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions: Damage Exclusions: 4c) civil commitions .. 4d) any act of one or more person, whether or not agents of a soverign power, for political or terrorist purposes and whether the loss or damage is accidental or intentional. 4e) Any malicious act or act of sabotage. ... Furthermore this policy does not cover claims arising while the aircraft is outside the control of the insured by reason of any of the above perils. 5c3) Electrical and electromagnetic interferenece .. 5c4) Interference with use of property. The way the policy reads to me, any nut can smash my plane ( malicious sabotage ), lightning could strike my plane and damage it ( 5c3) , and its not covered. There is more but you get the idea. When I got done reading the policy, I was thinking what does it cover. I know EAA has had a close working relationship with Avemco, and that association instilled confidence in me originally. Still, the cost is very high in my opinion, and I would prefer to spend less money. Am I reading the damage exclusions incorrectly ( which is entirely possible ) ? Are there any insurance companies out there with a smaller price ticket than Avemco's but has a policy that leaves you feeling covered ? Thanks in advance for you advice Scott Johnson scottj(at)ais.net RV6A / Chicago ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls
I thought others on the list might like to see Bill's answer to Brian's question so here it is. Also I am still running the special offer for the LRI at an appreciable discount. AL Subject: LRI Thanks for your question regarding the LRI and high "G" loading. As with any AOA type indicator, that is what and when it is used most. I have one installed in a military jet. We don't fly unless we are flying formation or "Dog Fighting". It works great! Nobody can turn inside of me because I use the LRI. I know exactly when I am behind the power curve and exactly when my wing will stall. A wing will stall at any attitude, any altitude, any airspeed but always at the same Angle of Attack. So the answer to your question is that many people can verify that it works under load. Because that is one of many important things that AOA gauges is used for. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Bill > >Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at high >loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will the >LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place? > > >Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies >brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 >http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 >+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else
?
Date: May 05, 1999
I would look at the definition of "sabotage" - sounds like a foreign agent/government might have to be involved...Also ask if damage from lightening is covered...electromagnetic interference is different than a lightening strike. I would also refer you to a Kitplanes Magazine article talking about how Avemco refused to cover hull damage and a suit brought against one of its "insureds" because he changed the fuel system to a pressurized one, didn't like it, changed it back to the original configuration, then had an off field landing where a third party had some damage. Avemo refused to pay or defend claiming he should have had an FAA inspection when he changed the fuel system, and another FAA inspection when he PUT IT BACK IN THE ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION !!! I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for reasons and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting. RV-6A Flying Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? Also, try Forrest Agency. They have been the best rates that we have seen so far. Give it a try. 800-536-2011, ask for Craig. Tell 'em Team Rocket sent ya!! Scott Team Rocket, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "solanas" <solanas(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RV-6a W&B results, ready for first flight
Date: May 05, 1999
Well, N804RS is painted and waiting for an FAA inspection next week. Ready to fly!!! The weight was 1165# (oh well) and the c.g. was 1/2" behind the forward limit. It's pretty loaded: 0-360, electronic ignition, constant speed prop, full ifr (including gps, S-tec system 30 autopilot), VM-1000. The battery's in the standard position. Rick Solana, N804RS Richmond, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? The exclusions that you are referring to are the "War" exclusion and Electro-magnetic exclusion and are on all aviation policies, including airline forms. Some general aviation policies allow a limited write-back (Extended Coverage Endorsement) for some War exclusions but I have not seen this on a home-built policy. Lightening is NOT considered Electro-magnetic interference. Yes, AVEMCO is hosing you at $2,100. Seek alternative quotes. Make sure that the hull is insured for "all risks" of loss or damage. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC-NJ Vice President Aon Aviation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kurt" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com>
Subject: RV-4 kit for Sale
Date: May 05, 1999
All kits,( tail, wing, fuselage, and finishing) for sale. Tail and wings complete, fuselage not started. . Philogiston spar, strobes, position lights, landing light. Excellent construction. Not time to finish. E-mail pictures on request. $10,000 or trade towards 108-2 Stinson, Piper Pacer.....?? Kurt Lake Geneva, WI 414-763-1232 w 414-248-0470 h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? In a message dated 5/5/99 19:37:05, scottj(at)ais.net writes: I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000 hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I am 42 years old. Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions: Damage Exclusions: >> I have no advice on insurance companies as I too am a little bewildered. It did take many phone calls to Avemco to get the quotes straight. Having said that I am still with Avemco, but have never made a claim. I would suggest you start by demanding a re figure? I just renewed my 6A for $75K after two years, and the premium was $1382. I have more hours but cannot believe it would make any difference. Sounds to me like they have you in the wrong category. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? Call these Guys at Aviation Ins mgn. Inc ! 800 827 4554 Steve Nealy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: NFS Pistons
Need Help: I am rebuilding an I0-320-B1A Engine that has been converted to an 0-320 Carburetor engine. I have the cylinders removed for a top overhaul, and it currently has standard pistons. My question is would the NFS 9.5 pistons improve the performance over standard pistons? They are rather expensive, and I don't know if the performance would be worth the $900.00. Has any body made this modification. Harvey Sigmon - Waiting for RV-6AQB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls
Yep, reads just like a sales brochure. Bill has twice promised me that he would get the "engineer" to respond to my analysis which says that the difference between the two pitot readings will not retain stall calibration across weight change or G load change. No answer. Do I believe them? Not yet. Peter > > I thought others on the list might like to see Bill's answer to Brian's > question so here it is. Also I am still running the special offer for the > LRI at an appreciable discount. AL > > > Subject: LRI > > Thanks for your question regarding the LRI > and high "G" loading. As with any AOA type > indicator, that is what and when it is used > most. I have one installed in a military jet. > We don't fly unless we are flying formation > or "Dog Fighting". It works great! Nobody can > turn inside of me because I use the LRI. I > know exactly when I am behind the power curve > and exactly when my wing will stall. A wing > will stall at any attitude, any altitude, any > airspeed but always at the same Angle of > Attack. So the answer to your question is > that many people can verify that it works > under load. Because that is one of many > important things that AOA gauges is used for. > > Let me know if you have anymore questions. > > Bill > > > > >Has anyone verified that the LRI will still give useful indications at > >high loading? Specifically, if you are pulling somthing like 4 G's, will > >the LRI still indicate when the stall is likely to take place? > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? In a message dated 05/05/1999 10:01:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, fasching(at)amigo.net writes: << I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for reasons and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting. >> Additionally, the state you are phisically in has bearing on what the insurance company can/can not deny. I have a request in to EAA NAFI division to provide information on what states have laws that require coverage. Basically, some states have laws that require the insurance to cover you, IF you are appropriately rated in the aircraft. Modifications to homebuilts that meet the requirements for additional approval should be approved regardless of how the insurance applies. david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 n(44df) started ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Boris <smbr(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: LRI indicator and accelerated stalls
You got me curious too. Read the info at: http://www.liftreserve.com/erau.htm - it may help > > Yep, reads just like a sales brochure. Bill has twice promised me > that he would get the "engineer" to respond to my analysis which > says that the difference between the two pitot readings will not > retain stall calibration across weight change or G load change. No > answer. Do I believe them? Not yet. > > Peter > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: NFS Pistons
I have tried both and think the 75089 pistons is the best all around choice for the 0-320 series this is just my outlook . Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? Give Mac McGee a call at AUA. His phone is 800-727-3823. We've insured our RVs with him for years. He likes RVs and has great rates and they pay when you have a problem. George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Splice Trick
>The latest issue of Sport Aviation has an article >on wire termination. He recommends crimp and solder. >The crimp for mechanical, and solder for the electrical. For the life of me, I cannot understand why folks recommend this practice. The companies that make solderless devices and take the time to get them Mil-Spec'ed and/or certified would be equally confused. There have been hundreds of thousands of airplanes and bizillions of cars built with nary a solder joint in the electrical system and they hang together just fine. IF one is using poor tools then solder might be useful, but if you're going to solder, why not forget the crimp tools and solder everything? Save some $. >I thought solder caused a point of possible fatigue, >and was not the best way to go. Both crimp AND solder have ways of putting stress risers into a group of wire strands making them more likely to fail right at the connection than anywhere else along the wire. This is why crimp terminals have TWO places to grab the wire . . . the ELECTRICAL joint where the stranding is mashed into a homogenous mass and the INSULATION GRIP where the wire is supported to keep vibration stresses off the electrical joint. Soldered joints need heat shrink over the joint for impoved support of the final assembly. In terms of overall reliablity, there is NO difference between a properly soldered joint and a crimped joint. The crimped joints are prefered in a factory environment 'cause crimp tools don't burn holes in the carpet and they require less craftsmanship to operate than a soldering iron. The folk who tout one over the other or recommend BOTH as some sort of reliability enhancement simply don't understand the physics of the matter. >Good quality terminals are a must. I use only "AMP" >brand on the airframe. There are probably others out >there that are good quality also, but I listened to >my radio shop, and I haven't had any problems yet >with my wiring, just the certified equipment connected. Another myth propogated by folk who simply don't take the time to understand the products they use or recommend. AMP makes a full range of terminals from open barrel, uninsulated el-cheapos up through Plasti-Grip (automotive/ hardware store stuff) and topped off with the pre-insulated diamond grip (PIDG) terminals which have been standards of comparison for decades. Dozens of other terminal manufacturers make similarly scaled products in order to satisfy the needs of a very large market. You can buy terminals UN-SUITED for use in airplanes from AMP or anybody else. Bad or poorly supported advice is no substitute for an understanding of how things work and why we choose to use them. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re:Low-cost landing lights/flasher
>I recall a Bob Nuckolls article which had a diode which does what you describe. >My memory says that with this component in the circuit there is always some >power to the bulb (kind of warming the elements) and when you turn it on they >will have less tendency to shock the filament. There are two ways to mitigate the inrush current to a lamp filament at turn on. One is to keep some amount of current flowing in the lamp filament equal to about 1-2% of it's full operating power at all times. This keeps the filament above the bittle/ductile transition temperaure (more resistant to vibration) and elevates the resistance of the filament so that application of full power has a lower inrush value. The "keep warm" power can be from a small DC-DC converter that puts out about 3 volts which can be diode distributed to all of the aircraft's lighting circuits. The other technique involves the use of resistors in parallel with the control switch of each lighting circuit such that a small but significant amount of current flows to the lamps even when the switch is open or OFF. The other technique involves incorporation of an inrush limiter in series with the lamp. These are educated resistors that have a significant resistance value when cold (.2 to .5 ohms) and drop to an in-significant value (.005 to .01 ohms) when warm. When operated in series with the lamp, their cold resistance keeps the inrush to a lower, more desired value but a few seconds after application of power to the lamp, their resistance drops due to the warming effect of lamp current flowing in the device. NEITHER of these techniques is particularly significant in terms of lamp life for wig-wagged landing lights. This is because the lamp filament doesn't have time to cool off between flashes so after the inrush current for second and subsequent flashes is MUCH lower than the first. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Hormann" <dhormann(at)gte.net>
Subject: RE: Sorting Outlook Express
Date: May 06, 1999
Yes you can. I have outlook set up to dump all my RV list email into a seperate folder. Go to the "Tools" menu and click on organize and you'll see what to do. Doug Hormann > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd > Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:22 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sorting Outlook Express > > > >> Is it possible to have two inboxes within Outlook Express so that > >> one would > >> have all the stuff from "The List" and the other one would have all the > >> other personal stuff that comes in? > > I don't know about Outlook Express but the free version of Eudora has very > good mail filters. So does the Netscape mail reader. > > I have mine set up so that my mailing list mail is automatically shunted > from my inbox to a separate mailbox for each mailing list. > > Oh, and I also wrote rules that examine the body of the message for things > like: > > "HOT SEX" > "mail addresses" > > and automatically routes them to the trash mailbox for future perusal. I > had to turn off my filters for "juno.com" and "hotmail.com" because they > were discarding email from some people on the list. (But it also > automatically discarded email from my ex-wife which I thought was a > positive side effect but I digress.) > > > Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies > brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 > http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 > +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax > > > --------- > > --------- > > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Etchprimer
Date: May 06, 1999
Metaflex FCR Primer is a 2-pack filiform corrosion resistant washprimer which has been designed: *As an alternative pretreatment to chemical conversion coatings. *For reactivation of aged anodixed or chromated alloys and sealed anodized surfaces *For strippability of polyurethane systems with alkaline paint removers *To provide adhesion of subsequent polyurethane or epoxy/isocyanate primers. There is a Boeing spec (BMS 10-72 type 5) and an Airbus spec (NT10.113).Do mind that all Boeing specs have copyrights on them. Physical properties: Drying times Set to touch 15 minutes 20 +/- 2c Recoatable min 2 hours Recoatable max 8 hours Theoretical Coverage 25m2/per litre base at 6 micron Dry film weight 1.8g/m2/micron colour(dry film) Translucent,brownish/Yellow Conditions temperature 15-35 c Relative humidity 35-75% Dry film thickness 6-10 micron potlife 6 hours 24 months shelflife When you use this there's no need for alodine which saves having a mess in your shop. Weight is very similar to use of alodine if applied to above thickness. If you have damaged parts you can rub them down to bare aluminum and spray them with metaflex,epoxyprimer and gloss. Application with ordinary spraygun Akzo-Nobel Aerospace Finishes is the manufacterer,they might trade under AD Aerospace in the U.S.A(Akzo-Dexter Aerospace) RV-4 Empenage G-RVMJ/Northern Ireland marcelderuiter(at)msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Strobe-Radio
I now have 21 hours on my RV-8, and the only problem I have found is that when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a zapping noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes, no problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem? Standard belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the strobe noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: RV-8 Canopy Covers
Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8? Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other suggestions? Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else
?
Date: May 06, 1999
Dave, Please let us know what you find out. Dave & I would be interested to know what Connecticut requires. Thanks, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A Niantic, CT ******************************** >From: DFaile(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody > else ? >Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 07:19:34 EDT > > >In a message dated 05/05/1999 10:01:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >fasching(at)amigo.net writes: > ><< > I have Avemco and probably will switch. They do appear to look for >reasons > and technicalities for reasons NOT TO PAY ! That's not very comforting. > >> > >Additionally, the state you are phisically in has bearing on what the >insurance company can/can not deny. I have a request in to EAA NAFI >division >to provide information on what states have laws that require coverage. >Basically, some states have laws that require the insurance to cover you, >IF >you are appropriately rated in the aircraft. Modifications to homebuilts >that >meet the requirements for additional approval should be approved regardless >of how the insurance applies. > >david faile, fairfield, ct >mcfii/a&p >faa aviation safety counselor >eaa technical counselor/flight advisor >christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) >rv6 n(44df) started > > > > > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Finding a good used I/O360 Engine - Part 3: The Purchase
Date: May 06, 1999
This is Part 3 of the history of our search for a good used I/O-360 Lycoming engine. In this segment we have purchased our engine. Parts 1 (Education) & 2 (The Engine) can be found in the archives in March 1999. Part 3 - The Purchase I called Dick Waters (Air-Tec) in late March and asked him to send me the firm price quote for the converted IO-360 engine. Dick said he'd send it out but had not received the fuel injection servo back, from being inspected, and didn't have a cost yet. I asked him to send the quote without the servo inspection and we'd settle up on the servo inspection when it was returned. About 4 days later I received the invoice for $13,949 as we discussed. I called Dick back on April 2nd and told him I'd forwarded his invoice and others to NAFCO and thought we'd have our checks around the 15th. Dick said he'd be out of town the following week, but he'd ship the engine with all logs next week. He said that he ships his engines via Watkins Freight and found them to be less expensive than Roadway. I would need to pay Watkins for the freight charges when the engine was delivered, estimated cost $150. I told him I probably would not have my check to him until after Sun-N-Fun. He said that was OK and invited Dave and I to visit his shop when we were in Florida. We agreed and said we'd stop in around 2 PM on the 13th. On April 9th my wife got a call from Watkins saying the engine was at their Orange Terminal (near New Haven, CT) and that they could deliver it on Tuesday April 13th. I called Watkins on Monday (4/12) and said I'd pickup the engine around 10AM. When I arrived Watkins loaded the large 400# box in my truck and gave me a bill for $168. A little more than the estimate but within reason. Dave and I unloaded the box (very carefully) and opened it. The engine was secured well with no apparent damage. It was freshly painted and looked great. All the fire sleeve hoses, fuel injection servo, prop governor, and misc parts were in separate plastic bags. There was also a large envelope, that contained the original engine logs, yellow tags (both current & from previous overhaul 1036 hours ago) and a new log book for the converted IO-360 A1B6. Dick also included the original IO-360 C1E6 data plate, in case we wanted to return the engine to that configuration. When we arrived in Tampa, on the 13th, we drove directly to Dick's shop in Orlando. It was a clean medium size building. When we entered the shop there were a number of engines being readied for shipment, being worked on and many bins of parts, all neatly arranged. We also check out his accessory shop, which builds light weight alternators and starters. While we were there we had a chance talk with a number of his employees, which all seemed to be very knowledgeable in their specialty. All in all we felt very comfortable with our decision to purchase our IO-360 engine from Dick. Our one surprise was the invoice for the Bendix fuel injection servo. Dick had received the invoice the previous day and it was for $800. The servo had required a complete overhaul and Dick agreed that it was the right thing to do. However, he was visibly upset over the unexpected overhaul vs inspection. He asked if we would agreed to cover half the cost and he'd cover the other half. We agreed. The total cost for our IO-360 A1B6 engine with 1036 hours SMOH was $14,517. This included: a complete teardown and inspection; new bearings; new rings and cylinders honed; overhauled Bendix fuel injection servo; prop governor; vacuum pump; new light weight starter and alternator; all hoses (including fire sleeve hoses) tested; mags with wires and spark plugs; engine baffling; log books; Lycoming Parts Catalog and operating manuals for our engine; a one year warranty on the case and crank and two year warranty on the cylinders - beginning at the first flight. Dick also asked us to call him before we started the engine and said he'd have his chief mechanic walk us through the start. We are hopefully eight (8) or ten (10) months away from starting the engine and will keep the "List" informed when we start it. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A awaiting QB Niantic, CT P.S. When we returned from S-N-F we completed a detail inspection of the engine and found that the fuel vent valve was missing and two (2) of the mag wires had small nicks in them. When I called Dick he said to send back the nicked mag wires and he'd replace them at no charge. He also sent out the missing fuel vent valve the next day at no cost. If anyone has any additional questions please contact me off-line and I'd be happy to discuss our research and experiences with you. Chuck Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? I have heard a number of things about Avemco recently as I searched for good insurance. My understanding is that Avemco was purchased by a larger insurance company last year. Following this purchase, the field agents (who were dispersed throughout the country were "let go" and all customer correspondence is now managed by agents at the home office. These home office agents, whom I have spoken with, definitely don't exude the same friendly attitude that the Avemco field agents used to (IMO). My suggestion would be to look elsewhere. I believe things are changing quickly at Avemco, and not for the better. I suspect that the company which took over Avemco has looked at the insurance risk and decided that some things need to change (i.e., too much risk for expected return) in their aviation insurance segment. Good luck. Let us know what you discover. Clay Smith, RV-4, fitting wheel pants BumFlyer(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/5/99 19:37:05, scottj(at)ais.net writes: > > > I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with > over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and > hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000 > hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking > this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I > am 42 years old. > > Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was > significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and > he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions: > > Damage Exclusions: > >> > > I have no advice on insurance companies as I too am a little bewildered. It > did take many phone calls to Avemco to get the quotes straight. > > Having said that I am still with Avemco, but have never made a claim. I > would suggest you start by demanding a re figure? I just renewed my 6A for > $75K after two years, and the premium was $1382. I have more hours but > cannot believe it would make any difference. Sounds to me like they have you > in the wrong category. > > D Walsh > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu>
Subject: 2 piece wheel pants on RV6A
Date: May 06, 1999
Fellow RV enthusiast I'm looking for someone who switched from the one piece wheel pants to Vans 2 piece wheel pants on there 6A to see if they gained any speed from the mod. please contact me off the list at: luker.michael(at)mayo.edu ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Dan Wiesel <dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com>
Subject: Baggage allowance
Could some one give me a rough idea of maximum baggage wt for an RV6A? Total passenger weight would be 350lbs, full tanks etc etc. Thanks in advance Dan Wiesel RV6a Slider QB Canopy drilled and in ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Check out Merle's RV-4 Page
Hey guys, If anyone is interested, I have a website with a few pix of my 4.3 RV-4 and a little background info Click here: Merle's RV-4 Page Regards, Merle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: water-based primers and paints
Date: May 06, 1999
listers, polyfiber, the makers of a number of composite and fabric finishing products, has a line of water-based primers (metal-prime) and paints (top gloss) for use on metal aircraft. their promotional literature sounds pretty promising. from my point of view, the biggest advantage would be the ability to paint the airplane at home in my garage without having to deal with lots of hazardous materials. just wondering, has anyone out there tried this stuff on aluminum? any recommendations? thanks, louis cappucci rv-6a qb starting finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Donald Farrand <dotndon(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: insurance
Scott Johnson asked about other insurance possibilities I have my RV6 insured with AUA (Aviation Unlimited Agency Phone 1 800 727 3823. I only insured for $40K, but I am 74 yrs old, just over 1000 hours and about 550 of it in RV's (I built and flew a '4 for over 5 years before started flying the '6 in March. My policy including hull and I don't recall any of the "gotcha's" you pointed out, =$1520 per yr. Anyway, Call Rob Kamsch and check it out...beats avemco! Don N164DF 30 + hours since March 3, 1999 and what a fun machine! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe-Radio
> when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a > zapping > noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes, no > problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem? > Standard > belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the strobe > noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit. Whelen uses a single power supply to service both strobes, I believe? I've wondered if having two power supplies to keep the high voltage run (PS to light) down, a'la Aeroflash, is worth the weight - running only 12 VDC out to the power supplies seems the right thing to do, so I think maybe so. I'm sure the high voltage line out to the wings is shielded - is the shield grounded well? Not all electrical noise will show up when the radio is passive. Mike Thompson Austin, TX N140RV (Reserved) Wing tanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: RV-8 Bolt lengths
I'm here to correct my criticism of the bolt length code not being always workable. I think it is correct with AN bolts but need to look up others such as NAS bolts as they do not follow the rule. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebodyelse
?
Date: May 06, 1999
As a side note to the ongoing discussion about Avemco....below is another view on the company and its current customer relations. A local flight school has a notice posted on their wall that they will only honor Avemco's Renter Policies until June of this year. After that renters will have to use another company or will not be able to rent their planes. Naturally I asked their reason and was told that Avemco was slow and or resistant to settling claims that they have submitted in the past year or so. They didn't used to be that way according to the flight school owner. Take the above with a grain of salt and do your own due diligence before buying from any particular company, but this tells me that I have to review my choice of Renter's Insurance this year. Paul Bilodeau RV-6A New Jersey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ?
Date: May 06, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:46 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else ? > >I have heard a number of things about Avemco recently as I searched for good >insurance. My understanding is that Avemco was purchased by a larger insurance >company last year. Following this purchase, the field agents (who were dispersed >throughout the country were "let go" and all customer correspondence is now >managed by agents at the home office. These home office agents, whom I have >spoken with, definitely don't exude the same friendly attitude that the Avemco >field agents used to (IMO). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Bob knckolls Seminar
Anyone interested in attending a Bob Kuckolls seminar in Florida? He would need a minimum of 20 attendees. It would be in Oct or Nov. If any interest, please E-mail me directly -- Peter Laurence RV6A Just started wings Miami Fl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: RF noise
I think Don meant to send this to the list - probably one of those e-mailer things. Personally, I'm not having much trouble with RF noise, what with my wings in the jigs as they are... :) - Mike --- Don D Gates wrote: > Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:25:39 -0700 (PDT) > From: Don D Gates <dgates(at)rocketmail.com> > Reply-to: dgates(at)techie.com > Subject: RF noise > To: grobdriver(at)yahoo.com > > Hi, > > You might try adding some capacitors from the HV > shielding to good *solid* grounds. Also as > mentioned, verify that you have good ground bonding > throughout the plane. Consider installing a ground > bond strap between the wings and the fuse, especially > if you have the Phil anodized spar -- the anodizing > is a great insulator. > > You can even use "P-Lead" noise supressor that you > can buy from Spruce or wherever for this purpose. > > Also look closely at the comm antenna ground bonding > as well.... > > Don == Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved) EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: LRI
>The LRI works under all loads. Its been tested under all conditions. I don't >believe the Frantz unit is a true AOA. It measures the same thing the LRI does. >Pressure in two places. It measures presure on the top and bottom of the wing (wing loading) and corrects that with differential pressure from the pitot-static system. That is then run through a calibration/conversion table that linearizes the output. I did some research into the original work on this type of "no moving parts" AoA indicator that was done by NASA (the papers are on-line so you can search for them). This is a true AoA system that produces consistent results, at least insofar as I have been able to test it. The markings on the display that correspond to stall, max performance approach, normal approach, and best L/D are right on the money. I have tested critical AoA at loading between 1G and 4.5Gs and it is right on the money. So it is a fair bit different from the LRI. Some of the basic precepts are the same but actually measuring pressure differential on the wing itself is useful by itself because you can directly deduce wing loading. So I will stick with my AoA indicator. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
> >Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8? Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had their covers on all the aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications for me free of charge. Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4 and the -6 so I suspect they have them for the -8. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com>
Subject: super 6
Date: May 06, 1999
>does anyone have names of builders w/ 6 cyl. stretched sixes? Tom Hallendorf created the "Super Six" which is stretched and semi-clipped: n888th(at)flash.net Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA Engine mounted... President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators http://www.skybound.com/BARV http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Autocad
Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A? Thanks -- Peter Laurence RV6A Wings Miami Beach, Fl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Eric Barnes <erbarnes(at)cisco.com>
Subject: super 6
Both answers are correct... but it depends on which "Super 6" you are looking for. Stretching is a must for CG purposes with the big engine. The question is, do you want the 4 seater? Tom's below is the "Rocketized" Super 6 (330hp that won a race recently at 216kts), and the other is the four seater. EB #80131 At 01:20 PM 5/6/99, you wrote: > >>does anyone have names of builders w/ 6 cyl. stretched sixes? > > >Tom Hallendorf created the "Super Six" which is stretched and >semi-clipped: n888th(at)flash.net > > >Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME >San Jose, CA Engine mounted... >President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators >http://www.skybound.com/BARV >http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm > > > Eric Barnes Sr. Financial Analyst, US Channel Sales 408-527-5967 E R B A R N E S @cisco.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: Re: Autocad
Date: May 06, 1999
I believe they are available on Van's website in the "downloads" area. Sylvain ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:47 PM Subject: RV-List: Autocad > > Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A? > > Thanks > > -- > Peter Laurence > RV6A Wings > Miami Beach, Fl > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)CANNONdesign.com>
Subject: Re: Autocad
I have a three-view of a -6 that can easily be converted to a -6a. The only problem is that it is archived on a zip disk and it will take me a couple days to get my hands on a zip drive. So if you can't find one from somebody else I'll dig mine up for you. I also have an AutoCAD drawing of the instrument panel, complete with common instruments, switches, fuses, controls, etc. The panel drawing is still on my hard drive if you are interested in that one. I am also in the process of creating a 3-D AutoCAD model of a -6a with correct internal structure, right down to the ribs, angles, skins etc. Of course my real -6a will probably be done before the model, maybe. Scott Kuebler Buffalo, NY RV-6a (wings) Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A? Thanks -- Peter Laurence RV6A Wings Miami Beach, Fl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
QUALITY IS THE BEST YOU WILL FIND AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE. DO NOT ARCHIVE --- Brian Lloyd wrote: > > > > > >Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy > cover for my RV-8? > > Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had > their covers on all the > aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications > for me free of charge. > Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4 > and the -6 so I suspect > they have them for the -8. > > > Brian Lloyd > Lucent Technologies > brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 > Robin Lane, Suite 1 > http://www.livingston.com > Cameron Park, CA 95682 > +1.530.676.6513 - voice > +1.530.676.3442 - fax > > > > > > The RV-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers of > fine Aircraft > Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of > List members. > > > Matronics: > http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: > http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > List Subscribe/Unsubscribe: > http://www.matronics.com/subscribe > Archive Search Engine: > http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > Other Email Lists: > http://www.matronics.com/other > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: 2 piece wheel pants on RV6A
In a message dated 5/6/99 9:19:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, luker.michael(at)mayo.edu writes: << Fellow RV enthusiast I'm looking for someone who switched from the one piece wheel pants to Vans 2 piece wheel pants on there 6A to see if they gained any speed from the mod. please contact me off the list at: >> This information would also be useful to folks on the "list" do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: water-based primers and paints
In a message dated 5/6/99 10:24:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com writes: << just wondering, has anyone out there tried this stuff on aluminum? any recommendations? >> Louis Commercial aircraft companies have jumped on the bandwagon in the use of water- based primers on their production aircraft for just the reasons you mentioned. It seems to work quite well. On the downside, I believe it is probably a bit less tolerant of solvents such as MEK, although they tolerate alcohol quite well. One thing that is very different in their use is that they require the use of "ionized water", and probably do not have the pot life you may be used to. Jim Nice RV6A WA State ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
This is what I did too... > can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you > template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level > to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty Sadly, the instrument I used did not have the holes all square with each other. When done I wished I'd got the template - or made one - or checked the instrument first. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Atlanta Builders to the Rescue!!
Hey there Rocketman or RVers, There is an Atlanta builder that needs a place to construct his airplane. He lives on the north side of atlanta. If there is any of you out there that wouldn't mind having a fellow builder in your hangar, please give me a call and I will relay the info. I think that with the high cost of flying these days that it is really good to help each other out with our projects. Thanks in advance!! Scott 561-748-2429 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Elevator balancing (RV-4)
Date: May 06, 1999
Fellow Listers: I'm fitting the elevators to my HS. I have the elevators balanced such that they just tend to return to the up position very slowly. Is this about right? (they are unpainted currently) Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Strobe-Radio
The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip; however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; could this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to a central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I had failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with the engine shut down. Thanks. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com writes: > >> when I transmit with the wingtip strobes on, the listener gets a >> zapping >> noise of the strobes in the background. If I turn off the strobes, >no >> problem. Where should I start looking to solve this problem? >> Standard >> belly antenna, Val-Com radio, Whelen strobes. I do not get the >strobe >> noise when the radio is on or receiving; only when I transmit. > >Whelen uses a single power supply to service both strobes, I believe? >I've wondered if having two power supplies to keep the high voltage >run >(PS to light) down, a'la Aeroflash, is worth the weight - running only >12 VDC out to the power supplies seems the right thing to do, so I >think maybe so. > >I'm sure the high voltage line out to the wings is shielded - is the >shield grounded well? >Not all electrical noise will show up when the radio is passive. > > >Mike Thompson >Austin, TX >N140RV (Reserved) >Wing tanks > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
Brian; Do you know the price on these covers? Do they have an e-mail address? Thanks. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com > >> >>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8? > >Get one from Bruce's Custom Covers. I have had their covers on all >the >aircraft I have owned. They have made modifications for me free of >charge. > Van's has standard covers from Bruce's for the -4 and the -6 so I >suspect >they have them for the -8. > > >Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies >brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite >1 >http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 >+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ? insured our RVs with him for years. He likes RVs and has great rates and they pay when you have a problem. George Orndorff>>> Ditto George. They also do not exclude hand propping for us T-Craft guys. Mac has been great and he even suggested kit coverage with someone else because of their pricing for homebuilt kits not yet flying. I am definitely going with AUA when I am ready for flight. Gary Palinkas Parma, Ohio RV 6QB (forward fuse stuff) N198RV (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
Date: May 06, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: n41va(at)Juno.com <n41va(at)Juno.com> Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 11:04 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy Covers > >Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8? >Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep >putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock >these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe >Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other >suggestions? >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com Von, Try Custom Cabin Covers, in Ocala Florida. Tony Brazier makes a fine cover from "Evolution 4" material. I have been using his product for years. Telephone number is 352-237-1811. Bob Bristol, Rv6A C-CTZ, Quinte West, Ontario > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: gerric(at)agt.net
Subject: Re: Autocad
Scott: I would be interested in the RV6A 3D view and also the instrument panel layout if I might have a copy of the Autocad file. Thanks Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Kent Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: SHOP PRESS/WING SPARS
Re: Wheel reinventing: We (me and my EAA Chapter) experimented with pressing those rivets in a standard shop-type hydraulic press but the rivet would clinch (bend) about 3 out of 5 times. We were careful to line everything up but it just didn't work right. Something to do with slow plastic deformation, slight misalignments or bad juju. We bought a big rivet gun. --Kent A. JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote: > > Would anybody who has used either a home made shop press or a shop press from > Harbour Freight for setting the rivets in the main wing spar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument spacing
On Thu, 6 May 1999, Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > This is what I did too... > > > can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for you > > template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small level > > to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty > > Sadly, the instrument I used did not have the holes all square with each > other. > > When done I wished I'd got the template - or made one - or checked the > instrument first. I was very surprised when I purchased all my instruments and sat down with calipers to measure each one. Clearly there is no such thing as a standard instrument form factor. I ended up with a custom template for each instrument. Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.916.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
On Thu, 6 May 1999 n41va(at)Juno.com wrote: > > Brian; Do you know the price on these covers? Do they have an e-mail > address? Thanks. Van's used to carry a cover made by Bruce's for the -4. It was in the catalog. Bruce's custom covers used to be in San Jose and Bruce would come out to SJC or PAO and measure your airplane to put custom pockets on for antennas, OAT probes, whatever. He didn't charge extra for that. Here are the phone numbers: Bruce's Custom Covers 800-777-6405, 408-738-3959 Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.916.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Rivet Problems
Hi Guys... Question for you regarding rivets.. I was riveting my ribs to the HS-603PP rear spar with my hand squeezer and had one rivet that I didn't like. After I center punched it and drilled it out, my hole was a little oblong. My question is how much is too much... I've seen people talking about lightly squeezing a rivet in a hand squeeze to thicken it somewhat before using it. I thought about adding a third rivet in the middle but the HS-609PP's kind of eliminate that option. I'll have to measure but I don't believe there is enough room in the middle for a rivet set. Any other options.. Thanks.. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Empennage Bonnyville, AB Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pdsmith" <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Rivet Problems
Date: May 06, 1999
I had a similar problem and in this case wasn't comfortable with the "squeezed rivet" trick which usually works well. So after checking edge distance, I drilled out to the next size and used the next size up rivet (5/32" if memory serves). Phil Smith, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe-Radio
> The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip; > however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; could > this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to > a > central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I > had > failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with > the > engine shut down. Thanks. That last is a happy circumstance: duplication on the ground, engine off! The ground would only be suspect, IMO, if there is only a hot line running out to the power supply, implying they are relying on a frame ground to complete the curcuit. If there is a two-conductor wire going out there... well, you should know how you wired the lights. Is there a hot line to the fuse/circuit breaker and another to a grounding bus? I'd simply run a wire (externally) from the battery ground out to the power supplies. You could check continuity with a meter, or just go ahead and connect the power supply grounds straight to the battery ground, fire it all up and call a friend for a radio check. We'll wait with bated breath for the results. :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX N140RV (Reserved) Wing Tanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Covers
Date: May 06, 1999
>Can anybody recommend a good place to get a canopy cover for my RV-8? >Ordered one from Cleveland Tools last July at Oshkosh, they just keep >putting me off. Apparently they supply Vans Aircraft, who does not stock >these either. I can't figure out why the shortage, other than maybe >Cleveland does not have an RV-8 to use as a pattern. Any other >suggestions? >Von Alexander >N41VA(at)juno.com > Von, Check page 8 of the February issue of your Home Wing newsletter. A fellow named Sam Knight makes a nice looking cover which he didn't list the price on. You can call him at 208-342-2602 or e-mail him at cknight(at)mci.net. Regards, Randy Lervold Home Wing RV-8, #80500, fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: May 07, 1999
Subject: Re: Strobe-Radio
Von, have you checked to insure that both of your wing strobe grounds are good. One way would be to check the reading at each wing tip or light ground with an ohm meter. You should get a resistance reading of near zero betweem the light ground and the metal of the wing and both wing readings should be the same. I saw the photo of your RV8 in the May issue of Sport Aviation. Looks Great! Rollie RV6A Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n41va(at)Juno.com
Date: May 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Strobe-Radio
Mike; As I mentioned, I have one power wire going out to each power supply on the wingtips, the ground is a local frame ground at the wingtip rib; Is this likely to be the problem? Why does it only affect the transmit? Why is the strobe not heard on the radio all the time? Will try running the ground direct from the battery like you say. Von Alexander N41VA(at)juno.com writes: > >> The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip; >> however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; >could >> this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to >> a >> central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I >> had >> failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with >> the >> engine shut down. Thanks. > >That last is a happy circumstance: duplication on the ground, engine >off! >The ground would only be suspect, IMO, if there is only a hot line


April 29, 1999 - May 06, 1999

RV-Archive.digest.vol-gv