RV-Archive.digest.vol-gw
May 06, 1999 - September 07, 1999
>running out to the power supply, implying they are relying on a frame
>ground to complete the curcuit. If there is a two-conductor wire
>going
>out there... well, you should know how you wired the lights. Is there
>a hot line to the fuse/circuit breaker and another to a grounding bus?
>
>I'd simply run a wire (externally) from the battery ground out to the
>power supplies. You could check continuity with a meter, or just go
>ahead and connect the power supply grounds straight to the battery
>ground, fire it all up and call a friend for a radio check.
>We'll wait with bated breath for the results.
>:)
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>N140RV (Reserved)
>Wing Tanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Harzell Data Sheet |
Dennis Persyk FAXed me a "Homebuilt Application" sheet that he'd gotten from
Hartzell, listing propeller applications and limits for the RV-4, 6, and 8.
They mentioned limits for certain models of constant speed props when used
with the IO-360 but not the O-360.
As I said in a previous post, I have researched this for an upcoming RVator
article and found that the HC-C2YK prop/O-360-A1A combination that Vans
sells does also have a range limitation. So I called Hartzell back and asked
one of their test engineers about this "Homebuilt Application" document and
he said "Hmm, I haven't seen that, it sounds like something our marketing
department cooked up". He then went on to describe, in great and helpful
detail, how the FAA Type Certificate Data are the real "gospel", and also
confirmed that the limitations are "blanket" limitations covering all single
engine tractor airframes up to the speed range they've been tested on, and
that the real limiting factor is the engine piston pulse, so the airframe,
whether certificated or experimental, doesn't change that. He was going to
talk to marketing and get back to me with a confirmation that there wasn't
something else we both don't know, but I suspect the outcome is going to be
a change in the marketing sheet.
Thanks Dennis for sending me that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
To: randallh(at)home.com
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:10 PM
Subject: Harzell Data Sheet
Randall,
Did you get the fax sheets OK? The guy at Sun&Fun seemed to think the
sheet was gospel for RVs.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | front spinner bulhead bolts too long |
Dear List,
As I go around tweaking things on my plane I find that the drilled head
1/4" bolts provided in the Van's spinner kit are too long for the tapped
holes in the Hartzell prop front piece. (Van's OEM prop).
I could get around this with washers but this would leave the threaded
portion of the bolt in the holes rather than the shank.
Is it acceptable practice to shorten (by grinding) AN bolts?
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SHOP PRESS/WING SPARS |
Jim,
While some people have successfully smashed their wing rivets using a hydraulic
or arbor press, I found I could not keep the rivets from folding over. I figured
that the slight slop in my arbor press allowed the rivets to tip. I used my Avery
"C" frame dimpling tool and a 3 lb. singlejack (a small sledge hammer to some
people) . Three whacks with the singlejack and the rivets were set.
Gary Zilik
Pine, Junction, CO
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Would anybody who has used either a home made shop press or a shop press from
> Harbour Freight for setting the rivets in the main wing spar contact me
> off-list? Thanks
> Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
>My understanding is that Avemco was purchased by a larger insurance
>company last year. Following this purchase, the field agents (who were
dispersed
>throughout the country were "let go" and all customer correspondence is now
>managed by agents at the home office.
Hmmm... this is interesting. For years I've been on a first name basis with
my Avemco agent, who is a pilot and comes to various local aviation
functions. Real nice guy, and part of the reason I've stuck with Avemco. I
hadn't seen him around for a while when I saw him briefly at the Northwest
Aviation Trade Show up in Puyallup WA. He told me he'd been transferred, I
didn't catch where to. Too bad -- if what you say is true then it explains
why there's no longer a local friendly Avemco agent around the airport. I
guess I'll be looking for another agency like the rest of you....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage allowance |
In a message dated 5/6/99 10:27:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan(at)interlinkrecruiting.com writes:
<< Could someone give me a rough idea of maximum baggage wt for an RV6A?
Total passenger weight would be 350lbs, full tanks etc etc. >>
Dan-
It depends on your empty W&B. With the O-360 and c/s prop my 6A can hold
full fuel, 400 lbs of pilot and pax and 100 lb in the baggage compartment.
Flies, stalls and lands great at 1900 lb (rare but done during testing phase).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Harzell Data Sheet |
Randall,
Last week someone posted a list of FAA certification data web locations.
When I reviewed them there were operating limitations on the
I/O-360/Hartzell prop combinations, except for the IO-360 A1B6 as well as
the C1E6 (due to the counterweights in these engines - I think). I had seen
this info previously in the Glastar catalog. You should be able to find the
FAA web addresses in the RV-List archives.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
*****************************
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rvlist"
>Subject: RV-List: Fw: Harzell Data Sheet
>Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:08:21 -0700
>
>
>Dennis Persyk FAXed me a "Homebuilt Application" sheet that he'd gotten
>from
>Hartzell, listing propeller applications and limits for the RV-4, 6, and 8.
>They mentioned limits for certain models of constant speed props when used
>with the IO-360 but not the O-360.
>
>As I said in a previous post, I have researched this for an upcoming RVator
>article and found that the HC-C2YK prop/O-360-A1A combination that Vans
>sells does also have a range limitation. So I called Hartzell back and
>asked
>one of their test engineers about this "Homebuilt Application" document and
>he said "Hmm, I haven't seen that, it sounds like something our marketing
>department cooked up". He then went on to describe, in great and helpful
>detail, how the FAA Type Certificate Data are the real "gospel", and also
>confirmed that the limitations are "blanket" limitations covering all
>single
>engine tractor airframes up to the speed range they've been tested on, and
>that the real limiting factor is the engine piston pulse, so the airframe,
>whether certificated or experimental, doesn't change that. He was going to
>talk to marketing and get back to me with a confirmation that there wasn't
>something else we both don't know, but I suspect the outcome is going to be
>a change in the marketing sheet.
>
>Thanks Dennis for sending me that.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randallh(at)home.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: randallh(at)home.com
> Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:10 PM
> Subject: Harzell Data Sheet
>
>
> Randall,
> Did you get the fax sheets OK? The guy at Sun&Fun seemed to think the
>sheet was gospel for RVs.
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Problems |
You might be OK just to use the 1/8 rivet as once the whole HS is riveted
together I think the majority of the loads are carried by the skin. The
ribs just serve to keep the upper and lower skin the right contour. But,
don't listen to me, as I'm not an expert in aircraft stuctures - talk to
Van's before going down this road. They respond quite quickly to e-mail
questions to support(at)vansaircraft.com
Good luck,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
>Hi Guys...
>
>Question for you regarding rivets.. I was riveting my ribs to the
>HS-603PP rear spar with my hand squeezer and had one rivet that I didn't
>like. After I center punched it and drilled it out, my hole was a
>little oblong. My question is how much is too much... I've seen people
>talking about lightly squeezing a rivet in a hand squeeze to thicken it
>somewhat before using it. I thought about adding a third rivet in the
>middle but the HS-609PP's kind of eliminate that option. I'll have to
>measure but I don't believe there is enough room in the middle for a
>rivet set. Any other options..
>
>Thanks..
>
>Dave Hrycauk
>RV-8 Empennage
>Bonnyville, AB Canada
>http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balancing (RV-4) |
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> I have the elevators balanced such that
> they just tend to return to the up position very slowly. Is this about
> right? (they are unpainted currently)
>
>
This seems to be about right, mine were more than a little nose heavy.
After painting they were just right.
Carroll Bird RV-4 Painting Fuselage
Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dimeo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Problems |
Also, only drill out the rivet head. Punch the body of the rivet through the
hole with a punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than the rivet body. If
you are reasonably carefull, you should be able to keep the round hole. The
guideline is that you can do this once before you have to go to the next size
rivet.
Bob
RV8 #423 working on tanks.
pdsmith wrote:
>
> I had a similar problem and in this case wasn't comfortable with the
> "squeezed rivet" trick which usually works well. So after checking edge
> distance, I drilled out to the next size and used the next size up rivet
> (5/32" if memory serves).
>
> Phil Smith, 80691
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
I use CDI Dial Torque Wrench, It will measure torque in both direction and
has a range of 0-75 in.lbs. It is manufactured by Consolidated Devices, Inc.
City of Industry, CA 91748.
Randy Riggles
RV-8 in Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument templates |
From a couple of previous messages:
"can you find an old instrument , take it apart and just use the case for
you template . because of the square back on the case. you can use a small
level to get it square and drill thru the bolt holes ...marty
Sadly, the instrument I used did not have the holes all square with each
other.
When done I wished I'd got the template - or made one - or checked the
instrument first."
Kathy and I had pretty good luck by creating (via several iterations to get
it to look just right, of course!) an AutoCAD 2-d layout of the dash. I set
up instrument cutouts and mounting holes using the dimensions in the
Aircraft Spruce catalog for various "standard" instruments. This was then
plotted full-size, and glued to the panel blank with 3M "77" spray adhesive
(before peeling the protective plastic). Now it's very easy to get all of
the holes where you wanted them. So far, I've found that while all of the
instruments do indeed show a little variation from the "perfect" layout that
the AutoCAD plot provided, none are far enough out to be a problem. I do
see enough variation that I'd have expected trouble if I had double the
variation (tolerance on the "template" instrument once direction, tolerance
on the real one the other way).
For those of you that don't have access to CAD software - it really was fun
doing this. Check around your local hangar flying group - you might find
someone that you can get interested in the "challenge"!
Hope this helps someone...!
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q), installing the "real" dash...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | SHOP PRESS/WING SPARS |
Jim,
Like Gary I used the Avery "C" frame and it did a fine job. I would do
it the same way again.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, canopy & empennage fairing.
Jim,
While some people have successfully smashed their wing
rivets using a hydraulic
or arbor press, I found I could not keep the rivets from
folding over. I figured
that the slight slop in my arbor press allowed the
rivets to tip. I used my Avery
"C" frame dimpling tool and a 3 lb. singlejack (a small
sledge hammer to some
people) . Three whacks with the singlejack and the
rivets were set.
Gary Zilik
Pine, Junction, CO
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Would anybody who has used either a home made shop
press or a shop press from
> Harbour Freight for setting the rivets in the main
wing spar contact me
> off-list? Thanks
> Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | I Just Saved $1,000 dollars On My Insurance Bill For My RV6A |
I called AOPA for insurance and they got me signed up with AIG. The people
were very courteous and efficient, and my policy went from $2,125 with
Avemco down to $1,150 for the same limits with AIG for my RV6A. As a side
note, when I mentioned to the Avemco staff and an Avemco manager that their
prices were way higher for me than all the other companies I talked to, they
had a very bad attitude like take it or leave it. I cancelled my policy
with them immediately and bound with AIG ! Now I can use that $1,000 extra
dollars a year for lots of gas. (By the way, I insured my RV for $65,000
hull and $1,000,000 liability.)
A happy RVer
Scott Johnson / Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
Von,
Check to see if the strobe wire shields are grounded at both ends or
not at all. The shield in the strobe wire should be grounded only at one
end. The other end insulated (wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink) so
it cannot touch ground. If it is grounded at both ends, it will act as an
antenna. If not grounded at all, it will not bleed off noise. Hope this
helps.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <rvsixer(at)pacbell.net> |
>
>Anyone have an Autocad three view of the RV6A?
Haven't seen this posted yet....RV-6 and RV-6A acad files are available at
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
Rob Acker (RV-6Q)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco insurance/HCC |
In a message dated 5/7/99, 1:43:53 AM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<company last year>>
Houston Causality Company purchased AVEMCO. They have no prior experience in
general aviation.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | exhaust system for sale |
Folks:
I have a Vetterman 4 pipe system here that I tried to mount on an -8. This
one won't fit due to the addition of the Airflow Peforomance Injection system
-- it will work fine with a carb. Brand new, in the box. $595, I'll cover the
shipping.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good Deals - Just for Fun |
Hey there Rocketmen and RVers!!
I desided to do something just for fun and make it good for everyone. We all
have the best ships out there (just ask us!) and we fly to the all the fun
places, but when we get there, its take that stupid taxi ride into town. And
if any of you have gotten taxi rides in the Bahamas, you know how expensive
they are ($60 round trip in Nassau). Just this past year alone, my wife and I
have gone to Key West (6 times), St. Augustine, Amelia Island (4 times),
Nassau, Freeport (2 times), March Harbour, and a few other cities that I
can't recall. We have spent close to $500 in taxi fees (they add up!!) So,
here's the deal. Team Rocket has gotten a distributorship for Go-Peds and
will pass on the deal to you. We are not looking to make anything off these
things, just make it easier for those who want to get around town easy
without calling taxis constantly. Two will easily fit into the back of your
Rocket or RV without taking up alot of space like bicycles do, and still
allow you to put your normal luggage in there too. They only weigh 18 lbs.
Plus they are a ball to ride!! Cost is $389 + SH. If you are interested in a
Go-Ped at cost, send your check to:
Team Rocket, Inc.
Go-Ped Deal
2731 S.E. Tailwinds Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33478
I felt like doing something just for fun! Enjoy!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Harzell Data Sheet |
The propeller T.C. data sheets can be found at
http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | exhaust system for sale |
For what kind of engine? Will it fit an O-320?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Starting the TU canopy on my RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com [mailto:Mlfred(at)aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 10:42 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: exhaust system for sale
Folks:
I have a Vetterman 4 pipe system here that I tried to mount
on an -8. This
one won't fit due to the addition of the Airflow Peforomance
Injection system
-- it will work fine with a carb. Brand new, in the box.
$595, I'll cover the
shipping.
Check six!
Mark
Aircraft
Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of List
members.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 72FM8 (was) Harzell Data Sheet |
Hi Ed,
How come the 72FM8 prop isn't in there? I got the impression it was a certified
prop for the 0-360. Was I mistaken, or just don't have a clue?
Thanks,
Laird RV-6 0-360 with the 72FM8 prop installed
SoCal
The propeller T.C. data sheets can be found at
http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good Deals - Just for Fun |
>
>Can you provide a bit more info on what a Go-Ped is? Thanks.
http://www.go-ped.com/home.html
dealer at http://extremetoys.com/
Think of a skateboard with handlebars and a buzzy little two stroke engine.
$400-$700, depending on features. They also make an electric version.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebodyelse |
?
I have been going with Skysmith for my last 3 planes. He was the
lowest quote for the same coverage, the first time called.
Others I called met his price only after I told them what
Skysmith's quote was. He beat aopa's quote with AIG by 200.00,
for same coverage. Aopa came down when I told them, but it was
too late. They should have given their best quote first. Scott
has been real helpful, and never gets miffed at the many
questions I can ask concerning a policy. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance difference between Avemco and others |
I have found a good insurance broker in the form of Zook Pilot Services. I
hooked up with them since they specialize in insurance, financing, and
appraisal services for warbirds and other experimental aircraft.
Diane Zook explained that, if you read Avemco's policy closely, their
wording on liability is "per person" while everone else's policy says "per
passenger." So if you ordered $1M liability with $100K "per person" from
Avemco and you get sued by a non-passenger, usually someone on the ground,
with Avemco you are limited by the "$100K per person" clause to $100K of
liability whereas with the other insurance companies the whole $1M of
coverage is available.
If anyone is interested in Zook Pilot Services, see http://www.z-p-s.com/.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
>
>Von,
> Check to see if the strobe wire shields are grounded at both ends or
>not at all. The shield in the strobe wire should be grounded only at one
>end. The other end insulated (wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink) so
>it cannot touch ground. If it is grounded at both ends, it will act as an
>antenna. If not grounded at all, it will not bleed off noise. Hope this
>helps.
If you are shielding power wiring to reduce radiated noise, grounding the
shield in multiple places is actually a good thing. It breaks up the
ground and keeps the shield from being resonant and acting as an antenna at
some frequency.
Where multiple point ground is a no-no is with your audio cables,
especially your mic wiring. In the case of your mic jack wiring you want
to ground the shield only at the radio. The mic shield and the mic jack
itself should be insulated from the airframe.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Good Deals - Just for Fun |
scott
i can relate to the taxies in the bahama's. they will quote you 10 dollars
to get to town and when you get half way they stop and raise their price to
fifty, if you agree to quickly they will stop further down the road and
raise the price again. it cost me 75 dollars once and i reported it to the
police. the officer laughed and said this was not unusual for taxi drivers
to do this, he said the the slower the buisness the higher the fares, they
will make their money whether its for many of just one, but they have to pay
their bills to. i didn't like this so when i go down there i rent a
motorcycle for a day . $60.00 plus gas, but at least it is a fixed cost.
hoping someone will design a rv with foldout wings.
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: exhaust system for sale |
<< For what kind of engine? Will it fit an O-320?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Starting the TU canopy on my RV-6A
>>
Geez -- did I do that again???!! My apologies! The setup is for a parallel
valve 360 on the -8. I don't think it will fit the -6, altho it would be
close.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM8 (was) Harzell Data Sheet |
The 72FM8 prop is not yet type certified according to the Sensenich web
site, so there is no Type Certificate Data Sheet yet. See
<http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmdone.htm> for details on what work
remains to be done before they get the type certificate.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuel tanks)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
>Hi Ed,
>
>How come the 72FM8 prop isn't in there? I got the impression it was a
certified prop for the 0-360. Was I mistaken, or just don't have a clue?
>
>Thanks,
>Laird RV-6 0-360 with the 72FM8 prop installed
>SoCal
>
>
>The propeller T.C. data sheets can be found at
>http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
>
>Ed Zercher
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
I am far from the expert on this issue, but the Aeroelectric Connection
recommends and Whelen explicitly states to ground the power leads at the
power pack end only, and to insulate the ground lead at the fixture end. I
think I read somewhere about multiple grounds creating weak signals in the
airframe because of different resistances at each ground point. (I probably
have this explanation askew somewhat). This is one possible source of
noise.
I do agree with your suggestion on looking at the grounding point on the MIC
circuit. It sounds like a possible entry point of the noise. I'm sure that
once Bob Nucholls gets caught up on his e-mail, he'll have multiple
responses to the various scenarios and recommendations made.
Von, let us know what you find.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
>
>>
>>Von,
>> Check to see if the strobe wire shields are grounded at both ends
or
>>not at all. The shield in the strobe wire should be grounded only at one
>>end. The other end insulated (wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink)
so
>>it cannot touch ground. If it is grounded at both ends, it will act as an
>>antenna. If not grounded at all, it will not bleed off noise. Hope this
>>helps.
>
>If you are shielding power wiring to reduce radiated noise, grounding the
>shield in multiple places is actually a good thing. It breaks up the
>ground and keeps the shield from being resonant and acting as an antenna at
>some frequency.
>
>Where multiple point ground is a no-no is with your audio cables,
>especially your mic wiring. In the case of your mic jack wiring you want
>to ground the shield only at the radio. The mic shield and the mic jack
>itself should be insulated from the airframe.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
>
>Why does it only affect the
>transmit? Why is the strobe not heard on the radio all the time?
If you are only getting noise in your transmit signal it is probably
getting in through either the radio's power lead or it is getting in
through the mic jack wiring. Make sure that your mic jack is insulated
from the airframe and that the mic jack shield wire is grounded only at the
radio. Failure to do this can cause ground currents in the airframe to
induce a voltage across the mic shield wire which shows up as a mic signal.
If you want to find out if the noise is coming in through the power wiring
or if it is coming in through the power wiring I can suggest a [not so]
simple test. If you have a second battery or power supply, temporarily
wire the radio power to a second battery. If the noise goes away, that
means that the noise is being propagated by the power wiring. If it
doesn't go away it means that it is being propagated by the mic wiring.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
I have the data plate that is sold for homebuilders by ACS and Wicks. It
says "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" and has boxes for Model,
Serial No., Date of MFG, Engine, Empty Weight, Gross Weight, Engine HP,
Name and Address.
The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only three items:
Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number (FAR 45.13)
and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
engraved on it?
MODEL RV-6
SERIAL NO. 60087
Builder LAWRENCE G PARDUE
I would like this better anyway.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM8 (was) Harzell Data Sheet |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hi Ed,
>
>How come the 72FM8 prop isn't in there? I got the impression it was a
>certified prop for the 0-360. Was I mistaken, or just don't have a clue?
>
>Thanks,
>Laird RV-6 0-360 with the 72FM8 prop installed
>SoCal
>
At last word the 72FM8 prop was not certified. I believe Sensenich
mentions plans for future certification on their web site.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
There has been much discussion of late about ground wiring and what will
solve the problem. There seems to be some confusion about whether the
airframe is or is not a good ground. It turns out that the airframe is a
good ground for some things but not for others.
In an all-metal airframe like our RVs the airframe is generally a good
ground. All that aluminum usually makes for a low resistance path back to
the ground point for things like lights, pumps, etc. Where you have to be
careful is at points where major aluminum structures are bolted together
instead of being riveted. At those points you might not have a really good
connection hence the admonition to do a good job of bonding major
structures together.
That mass of aluminum is also an excellent ground for radio frequencies
since it doesn't tend to resonate at any one particular frequency.
Now what if you have a noise problem in a radio? To ground or not to
ground, that is the question. When you have noise you have to figure out
whether the noise is RF noise that is coming in through the antenna or
whether it is audio (baseband) noise coming in through the power wiring,
mic wiring, headphone wiring, etc. When shielding for RF noise, the more
places you can ground the shield, the better off you are. If you think
that your strobe is radiating RF "hash" and you choose to shield the power
wiring to the strobe power supply or shield the HV wiring from the power
supply to the strobe light itself, ground that shield all over the place,
or at least ground it at both ends. The more places the shield is grounded
to the airframe, the better the shield will work as an RF shield.
On the other hand, if the noise is audio frequency noise that is getting
into the power or audio wiring, multiple grounds can exacerbate the
problem. You see, any wire, including the airframe, has some resistance.
That means that when you run a current through it, you will see some
voltage, albeit a very small one, between the battery ground and the
grounding point where you have grounded the device. Usually this voltage
is very, very small, on the order of thousandths (1/1000) of a volt or one
millivolt. The kicker is that you ground something in the middle, you will
also see that ground voltage change in step with the current changes in the
other device. With things that draw a steady load like landing lights,
position lights, pitot heat, etc., this is no problem. With things that
have lots of current changes, like strobe light power supplies, this signal
gets impressed, to some extent or another, on every other device that also
uses the airframe as a ground.
So what effect does this have on the radios? Well, if you have grounded
your mic jack to the airframe, you have now added this ground signal to the
mic signal. Since the mic signal is already on the order of a few
millivolts the ground signal can be a signficant part of the mic signal.
This is less of an issue for headphone wiring where the signal is more on
the order of a volt.
So getting back to the original question, to ground or not to ground, it
depends on whether the offending signal is being radiated as a radio wave
or conducted by the airframe as a ground current. Again here are the two
rules:
1. if you are shielding for radiated radio signals, the more grounds you
have, the better;
2. if you are trying to eliminate ground-conducted signals, you want to
have only a single point ground.
There is an especially fun kind of problem where you are dealing with both
kinds of noise at the same place. It is possible that your strobe power
supply is radiating RF noise and there is conducted noise in the ground
system. If you do a single-point grounding of the power supply by running
a separate ground wire back to the battery or battery ground point, that
ground wire can become an excellent radiator of radio noise and the problem
gets worse. So to combat that you ground the power supply to the airframe
which increases ground-conducted noise and the problem get worse again.
(Yes, this sort of stuff does happen.) When this sort of thing happens you
have to treat the noise problem not at the strobe power supply, but rather
at the the thing that is picking up the noise, i.e. the radio and its wiring.
Sometimes if you do the mic wiring just right, i.e. single point ground
with the mic jack insulated from the airframe, the mic wiring can act as an
antenna to pick up RF radiated noise. I have seen this problem cause RF
feedback from the transmitter back into the mic wiring causing howling or
other strange noises when you transmit. A hint that this is the problem is
that you can change the problem by switching to a different mic or headset.
In this case you want to be able to ground the mic shield at RF
frequencies while still preventing ground loop or ground-conducted noise
problems.
There are two ways to help solve this problem:
1. Connect a small capacitor, usually around 0.01 microfarads, from the
mic shield at the mic jack (which is insulated from the airframe) to the
airframe. The capacitor forms an RF ground path while still keeping the
shield isolated (insulated) at DC and audio frequencies.
2. Put ferrite beads over the mic wiring to choke off RF signals being
picked up and conducted over the ground shield.
Finding and eliminating electrical noise in an electrical system is almost
an art. Two installation can seemingly have the same problem but, since
the noise is being transferred differently, require two completely
different remedies. The bottom line is that you may have to try different
ways to get rid of noise and not to become discouraged when your first try
and noise reduction doesn't solve the problem.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
>
>
> I have the data plate that is sold for homebuilders by ACS and Wicks. It
> says "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" and has boxes for Model,
> Serial No., Date of MFG, Engine, Empty Weight, Gross Weight, Engine HP,
> Name and Address.
>
> The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
> next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
>
> When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only three items:
> Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number (FAR 45.13)
> and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
> Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
> attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
> engraved on it?
>
> MODEL RV-6
> SERIAL NO. 60087
> Builder LAWRENCE G PARDUE
>
> I would like this better anyway.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6Q N441LP
Larry - I think that you will also find in the regulations the requirement to
use stainless steel for the data plate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
Ask the DAR/FAA Inspector that is handling the inspection. You can always
pay for overnight shipping from Aircraft Spruce or other source.
----- Original Message -----
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 10:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Data Plate
>
> I have the data plate that is sold for homebuilders by ACS and Wicks. It
> says "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" and has boxes for Model,
> Serial No., Date of MFG, Engine, Empty Weight, Gross Weight, Engine HP,
> Name and Address.
>
> The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
> next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
>
> When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only three items:
> Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number (FAR 45.13)
> and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
> Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
> attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
> engraved on it?
>
> MODEL RV-6
> SERIAL NO. 60087
> Builder LAWRENCE G PARDUE
>
> I would like this better anyway.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6Q N441LP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Wing to spar bulkhead bolt washers under heads???? |
Me again,
I have some hardened washers now to put under the heads of the spar center bolts
(16 as I recall). If I put washers under the bolts, I am pretty sure they will
be too short -- that a thread or two will be inside the spar.
Are we sure about these washers??
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good Deals - Just for Fun |
In a message dated 5/7/99 1:56:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, FLARV8N writes:
<<
speed,
tire size, transmission,etc. Would a pictuer be possible? :-))
Dallas >>
OK here is all the info on them.
Length 33 in.
Height 42 in.
Folded Height 12 in.
Width 13 in.
Dry Weight 22 lbs.
Storage Displacement 2.5 cu. ft.
Engine Type Air-cooled, two-stroke,single cylinder
Engine Displacement 22.5 cc
Ignition Electronic
Carburetion Pumper-type,w/choke & primer
Fuel Gasoline mixed 40:1
Fuel Capacity 1 liter
Running Duration 1.5 hrs.
Miles per Tank of Gas 25 to 30 mi.
Transmission Single-speed,direct drive
Maximum Speed 20 mph
Cruising Speed 15 mph
Minimum Speed 2 mph
Maximum Useful load 400 lbs.
Wheel Type 2.5" x 6" natural rubber, non-pneumatic
Braking Rear: engine compression,
Front: caliper
Starting Compression and/or recoil
Turning Radius 2.5 ft.
WHEW!! There ya go...every detail you could possibly want. Server will not
allow picture, you will have to look it up on the web, look up "Go-ped".
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc. >>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM8 (was) Harzell Data Sheet |
The 72FM series prop is not certified yet. We were considering going for the
200 HP and if we do, we want to do it all at the same time. Sorry if we ever
steered anybody wrong on that matter. Once the 72FM is Type Certified, we
can make all previously manufactured 72FM's fall under the TC.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
I think that the FAA requires stainless, but you can cob of the worst
looking plate as long as it has Make, model and serial number. Check the
FARs.
-----Original Message-----
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 1:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Data Plate
>
>I have the data plate that is sold for homebuilders by ACS and Wicks. It
>says "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" and has boxes for Model,
>Serial No., Date of MFG, Engine, Empty Weight, Gross Weight, Engine HP,
>Name and Address.
>
>The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
>next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
>
>When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only three items:
>Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number (FAR 45.13)
>and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
>Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
>attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
>engraved on it?
>
>MODEL RV-6
>SERIAL NO. 60087
>Builder LAWRENCE G PARDUE
>
>I would like this better anyway.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6Q N441LP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F604A - cutting stick notches in the spar bulkhead |
Hal,
If I remember correctly I cut the hole in the seat skins exactly as the plans
dictate. I then traced the hole in the skins onto the F604A. My notch does not
go
from rib to rib and originally only went as deep as where the flange starts to
bend
toward the web. After mounting the empenage I had to increase the notch about 1/8"
deeper. If the stick neutral position is father back than Van states, the notch
would not have to go as far forward.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Mounting Navaid servo in the right wing; bottom skins off and wings
attached.
Pine Junction, CO - Spring has finally arrived...
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need some suggestions on how to cut the notch for the sticks in the spar
> bulkhead F604A. I'd like to do it right in just a few tries rather than the
> usual nibbling out molecule by molecule!
>
> I have marked the flange with a big X indicating a notch from rib to rib and
> extending back to where the flange begins to bend down. Now, I can't locate
the
> information that led me to mark it that way so I'm nervous. Another builder
> said he notched his about like my mark but I'm still worried. If the notch goes
> back that far, I suppose the flange is there not for strength but only for
> attaching things to.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance difference between Avemco and others |
If anywants a quote I will be glad to help them out as almost of the
insurance companies out there to get you the best rate. If your interested
in a quote please feel free to send me emial or request if of my web site.
Please excuse the web site as it was just started a few days ago.
Chris Wilcox, President
CGW Insurance/Investments
Oshkosh, WI
(920) 235-1082
(920) 235-1083 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
Brian; Your post is an outstanding education on radio noise, etc. I am
just going by memory, but it seems like I did use local airframe ground
for the mic jack, although the mic jack itself is isolated from the
airframe. Now that I have given it some thought, I am about 90% sure
that this is where the problem is;Tell me if I have this right in laymans
terms; since the strobe ground is also grounded locally at the wingtips
into the airframe, the strobe works at such high voltage that a certain
amount gets fed into the airframe through that local ground, which is
then picked up by the local ground at the mic jack; so when I transmit,
the strobe noise also gets transmitted! Assuming that is the correct
theory and that this is the problem, exactly how to fix it in laymans
terms? Should I disconnect that local ground at the mic jack and run it
all the way up to the main ground point behind the panel, or is there
some easier way to isolate that mic jack local ground from the strobe
noise? How about the capacitor you mention in your post? Can I disconnect
the mic jack ground from the airframe (I believe it is attached to the
airframe about a foot away from the mic jack itself), attach a long wire
to it and run it outside the airplane directly to the negative side of
the battery? Then turn on the radio and strobes and see if the noise goes
away? I made a copy of your post and plan to add it to my maintenance
files. Good Stuff!!!! .
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>There has been much discussion of late about ground wiring and what
>will
>solve the problem. There seems to be some confusion about whether the
>airframe is or is not a good ground. It turns out that the airframe
>is a
>good ground for some things but not for others.
>
>In an all-metal airframe like our RVs the airframe is generally a good
>ground. All that aluminum usually makes for a low resistance path
>back to
>the ground point for things like lights, pumps, etc. Where you have
>to be
>careful is at points where major aluminum structures are bolted
>together
>instead of being riveted. At those points you might not have a really
>good
>connection hence the admonition to do a good job of bonding major
>structures together.
>
>That mass of aluminum is also an excellent ground for radio
>frequencies
>since it doesn't tend to resonate at any one particular frequency.
>
>Now what if you have a noise problem in a radio? To ground or not to
>ground, that is the question. When you have noise you have to figure
>out
>whether the noise is RF noise that is coming in through the antenna or
>whether it is audio (baseband) noise coming in through the power
>wiring,
>mic wiring, headphone wiring, etc. When shielding for RF noise, the
>more
>places you can ground the shield, the better off you are. If you
>think
>that your strobe is radiating RF "hash" and you choose to shield the
>power
>wiring to the strobe power supply or shield the HV wiring from the
>power
>supply to the strobe light itself, ground that shield all over the
>place,
>or at least ground it at both ends. The more places the shield is
>grounded
>to the airframe, the better the shield will work as an RF shield.
>
>On the other hand, if the noise is audio frequency noise that is
>getting
>into the power or audio wiring, multiple grounds can exacerbate the
>problem. You see, any wire, including the airframe, has some
>resistance.
>That means that when you run a current through it, you will see some
>voltage, albeit a very small one, between the battery ground and the
>grounding point where you have grounded the device. Usually this
>voltage
>is very, very small, on the order of thousandths (1/1000) of a volt or
>one
>millivolt. The kicker is that you ground something in the middle, you
>will
>also see that ground voltage change in step with the current changes
>in the
>other device. With things that draw a steady load like landing
>lights,
>position lights, pitot heat, etc., this is no problem. With things
>that
>have lots of current changes, like strobe light power supplies, this
>signal
>gets impressed, to some extent or another, on every other device that
>also
>uses the airframe as a ground.
>
>So what effect does this have on the radios? Well, if you have
>grounded
>your mic jack to the airframe, you have now added this ground signal
>to the
>mic signal. Since the mic signal is already on the order of a few
>millivolts the ground signal can be a signficant part of the mic
>signal.
>This is less of an issue for headphone wiring where the signal is more
>on
>the order of a volt.
>
>So getting back to the original question, to ground or not to ground,
>it
>depends on whether the offending signal is being radiated as a radio
>wave
>or conducted by the airframe as a ground current. Again here are the
>two
>rules:
>
>1. if you are shielding for radiated radio signals, the more grounds
>you
>have, the better;
>
>2. if you are trying to eliminate ground-conducted signals, you want
>to
>have only a single point ground.
>
>There is an especially fun kind of problem where you are dealing with
>both
>kinds of noise at the same place. It is possible that your strobe
>power
>supply is radiating RF noise and there is conducted noise in the
>ground
>system. If you do a single-point grounding of the power supply by
>running
>a separate ground wire back to the battery or battery ground point,
>that
>ground wire can become an excellent radiator of radio noise and the
>problem
>gets worse. So to combat that you ground the power supply to the
>airframe
>which increases ground-conducted noise and the problem get worse
>again.
>(Yes, this sort of stuff does happen.) When this sort of thing
>happens you
>have to treat the noise problem not at the strobe power supply, but
>rather
>at the the thing that is picking up the noise, i.e. the radio and its
>wiring.
>
>Sometimes if you do the mic wiring just right, i.e. single point
>ground
>with the mic jack insulated from the airframe, the mic wiring can act
>as an
>antenna to pick up RF radiated noise. I have seen this problem cause
>RF
>feedback from the transmitter back into the mic wiring causing howling
>or
>other strange noises when you transmit. A hint that this is the
>problem is
>that you can change the problem by switching to a different mic or
>headset.
> In this case you want to be able to ground the mic shield at RF
>frequencies while still preventing ground loop or ground-conducted
>noise
>problems.
>
>There are two ways to help solve this problem:
>
>1. Connect a small capacitor, usually around 0.01 microfarads, from
>the
>mic shield at the mic jack (which is insulated from the airframe) to
>the
>airframe. The capacitor forms an RF ground path while still keeping
>the
>shield isolated (insulated) at DC and audio frequencies.
>
>2. Put ferrite beads over the mic wiring to choke off RF signals
>being
>picked up and conducted over the ground shield.
>
>Finding and eliminating electrical noise in an electrical system is
>almost
>an art. Two installation can seemingly have the same problem but,
>since
>the noise is being transferred differently, require two completely
>different remedies. The bottom line is that you may have to try
>different
>ways to get rid of noise and not to become discouraged when your first
>try
>and noise reduction doesn't solve the problem.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite
>1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Balancing, why not? |
To anybody that might know,
I was talking to one of our "aero elastic" (ok.... elasticity) guy here at work
about flutter, and mentioned that the RV-3,4, and 6 don't have counterbalanced
rudders. He was curious why not, particularly when I mentioned that the -8
does.
Does anybody have a good answer why we don't other than "If Van says we don't need
it, than that's good enough for me", or "we don't need no stinkin counterbalances",
or "I don't know, but I'd guess.....". You know, the usual answers
;-)
Look where the mind wanders when your working on baffles......
Thanks,
Laird RV-6 515L
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SHOP PRESS/WING SPARS |
In a message dated 5/6/99 7:49:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kjashton(at)vnet.net
writes:
<< Something to do with
slow plastic deformation, slight misalignments or bad juju. We bought a
big rivet gun. >>
Kent
Thanks for the info.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
Brian
What would happen if the strobes were wired with a twisted pair, thereby
eliminating
a lot of the radiation from a single wire? Seems the big current draws should
have their
own ground return.
Sam Ray
RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>I have the data plate that is sold for homebuilders by ACS and Wicks. It
>says "Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft" and has boxes for Model,
>Serial No., Date of MFG, Engine, Empty Weight, Gross Weight, Engine HP,
>Name and Address.
>
>The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
>next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
>
>When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only three items:
>Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number (FAR 45.13)
>and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
>Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
>attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
>engraved on it?
>
>MODEL RV-6
>SERIAL NO. 60087
>Builder LAWRENCE G PARDUE
>
>I would like this better anyway.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6Q N441LP
>
2024 is NOT fireproof.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Updated RV8 web page |
Listers,
I posted some pics showing the latest progress on my RV8 engine
installation. They're at the end of...
http://www.geocities.com:80/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage4.html
Thankyou, and I now return you to your regularly scheduled program. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
engine, canopy (Ack!!), etc.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Two day two accidents |
Dose not look good to look in NTSB accident reports and see two
RV accidents listed for may 6 and 7. One a RV-3A in AZ. and a RV-6A
in NM. on a first flight. Anyone in those areas have details.
I hate reading seeing this in the reports.
Lets all be careful out there.
Jerry Springer
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/s_0507_n.txt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else |
?
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I have had my RV6A insured with Avemco for two years now. I am a pilot with
> over 1100 logged hours, instrument rated, and have 150 hours in RV's and
> hundreds of hours in high performance planes. I insure my RV6A for $65,000
> hull value. My current policy costs me about $2,100 a year and am thinking
> this is ridiculous for my experience and 20 year accident free pilotage. I
> am 42 years old.
>
> Many members on the list have talked about skysmith. Their quote to me was
> significantly less and I am strongly considering it, and I met the agent and
> he was very nice. However, their policy lists the following exclusions:
Scott, I went through the insurance question a few months ago and
learned a couple of things. I found that there are only a few companies
writing aviation insurance. Most sell through agents but AVEMCO sells
only through their own agents. If you contact an independent agent such
as Skysmith, the agent will contact the companies and give you the best
quote he was able to obtain. Any other independent agent is locked out
of getting his quote from the companies who have already given a quote
to another agent. Thus you can get a quote from AVEMCO and from one
independent agent. The moral seems to be to choose your first agent
carefully as he will probably be your last agent with a quote aside from
AVEMCO.
I suspect none of the verbiage in any policy will make anyone feel
secure. Your premium does seem high.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> The engraver royally fouled it up and with an inspection scheduled for
> next week I don't know if I have time for them to try another one.
>
> When I consult the regulations I find requirements for only
> three items:
> Builder's name, model designation and builder's serial number
> (FAR 45.13)
> and a fireproof plate with etching, stamping or engraving (FAR 45.11).
> Does anyone know a reason I could not use a much smaller, and more
> attractive plain piece of scrap 2024 with the required three items
> engraved on it?
>
Larry:
Stainless steel is a requirement.
I used the ACS data plate. I cut a two inch piece off one end, drilled
two more holes, and had it engraved on the BACK side. I think this looks
much better. In addition to the three items listed above, I also included
the year of manufacture (at least the year it was finished). I don't know
if the date is a requirement or not.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 348 hrs
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
>
>Tell me if I have this right in laymans
>terms; since the strobe ground is also grounded locally at the wingtips
>into the airframe, the strobe works at such high voltage that a certain
>amount gets fed into the airframe through that local ground,
It isn't the high voltage that is usually the problem; rather it is the 12V
ground because that is what is where the highest current is flowing.
>which is
>then picked up by the local ground at the mic jack; so when I transmit,
>the strobe noise also gets transmitted!
I think you have it.
>Assuming that is the correct
>theory and that this is the problem, exactly how to fix it in laymans
>terms? Should I disconnect that local ground at the mic jack and run it
>all the way up to the main ground point behind the panel, or is there
>some easier way to isolate that mic jack local ground from the strobe
>noise?
Insulate the mic jack from the airframe, connect the shield of the mic wire
to the shell terminal of the mic jack (the mic jack has three terminals:
shell, ring, and tip), and connect the other end of the mic wire shield to
ground at the radio or intercomm. In essence, the only place the mic
shield is "grounded" is at the radio/intercomm.
>How about the capacitor you mention in your post?
One thing at a time. Let's see if getting the mic wiring changed solves
the problem. If it doesn't, then we start thinking about using the
capacitor to get the mic jack at RF ground.
>Can I disconnect
>the mic jack ground from the airframe (I believe it is attached to the
>airframe about a foot away from the mic jack itself), attach a long wire
>to it and run it outside the airplane directly to the negative side of
>the battery? Then turn on the radio and strobes and see if the noise goes
>away?
Let me go into a little more detail about the mic jack. It has three
terminals, shell, ring, and tip. Shell is the outside of the jack that
would be connected to the airframe if the jack wasn't insulated. Ring is
the shorter of the two contacts and it touches the ring terminal of the
mic/headset plug. Tip is the longer of the two contacts and it touches the
tip of the plug. Take your mic jack and plug in a mic/headset to see what
I am talking about.
Your mic wire should be a shielded cable with one or two wires inside the
shield (two if you are going to hook up the PTT line). Connect the shield
of the mic wire to the shell terminal of the jack. Take one of the inner
wires and connect it from the ring terminal at the jack with the other end
going to the microphone input of the intercomm or transceiver. Take the
other inner wire and connect it from the tip terminal of the mic jack with
the other end going to the push-to-talk (PTT) input on your intercomm or
transceiver. (This latter wire may be omitted if you don't want the PTT to
work at the mic jack but you must install a separate PTT, probably a button
on the stick or throttle.)
Notice that there is no "ground" at the mic jack at all. The "ground" for
the mic jack goes back to the radio/intercomm through the shield and only
to the radio/intercomm. With only one point of ground, there is no
possibility of any DC or audio signal being impressed on the shield wire.
Try making this change. My guess is that it will fix your problem. If you
still have noise, then we start thinking about the capacitor.
>I made a copy of your post and plan to add it to my maintenance
>files. Good Stuff!!!! .
Thanks.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
>
>
>Brian
> What would happen if the strobes were wired with a twisted pair, thereby
>eliminating
>a lot of the radiation from a single wire? Seems the big current draws
should
>have their
>own ground return.
Yes, that would eliminate the ground currents in the airframe from that
device and it would tend to reduce radiation from the power lead since you
have equal and opposite current in the ground lead. But it does require
you to isolate your strobe power supply from the airframe and that can be a
pain to do.
>Sam Ray
>RV8 wings
>
>
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Go-Peds - First Hand Experiences |
> >Can you provide a bit more info on what a Go-Ped is? Thanks.
> http://www.go-ped.com/home.html
> dealer at http://extremetoys.com/
> Think of a skateboard with handlebars and a buzzy little two
> stroke engine.
Don's description is accurate.
I have one and while they are a blast to ride, they are not without some
significant drawbacks:
1. They are dangerous. You are riding a largish skateboard with tiny
6-inch diameter solid rubber wheels while you steer STANDING UP via a long
folding pole with short handlebars coupled to the front wheel. Unstable as
hell. It takes some practice. I'm Ok up to about 12-mph on smooth roads,
but after this, things get worrisome. And I race motorcycles! To be safe,
you should dress like a skateboarder or inline skater - helmet, knee pads,
elbow pads, and wrist guards.
2. They are underpowered. With their 1.2-hp engine, max level speed is
20-mph, but anything more than a couple percent grade will have you doing
less than 5-mph. A ten percent grade will have you pushing. I have a
hydraulic clutch model which allows you to keep the engine running when you
stop which may hurt performance some. The direct drive models are probably
better, but you have to restart them every time you start from a stop.
3. They require smooth roads. With the tiny non-pneumatic wheels and no
suspension, moderate-size pavement cracks start looking like significant
real obstacles; potholes are out of the question. Even smooth off-road
paths are out of the question.
4. They have minimal brakes. There is only one brake and it is simply a
caliper with two metal strips that rub on the front wheel. It stops in a
fashion, but control is marginal in panic stops, especially with the very
high CG which wants to pitch you over the front wheel.
6. They don't mix well with traffic. They are too slow and unstable to
ride along with traffic like a bicycle and too obnoxious and unable to deal
with rough pavement to be a sidewalk vehicle.
7. They are VERY conspicious. I've almost caused accidents when motorists
rear-end other cars gawking at me when I go whizzing past on one of these
things. You really draw stares. This in itself is no big deal, but there
are areas of the country where I want to blend in, not stand out. It is an
exception when a passing motorist doesn't yell out the window, "What the
*&
% is that thing." The raucous 2-sroke engine doesn't help. It's
basically a chain-saw engine.
8. They have limited range and require premix. The tank holds a little
less than a quart. I haven't run my dry, but I'd guess 10 miles max range.
You probably need to carry a couple-gallon can of pre-mix in the plane.
9. They are crude. Mine has run OK in limited use with only normal
maintenance, but I doubt they'd hold up if you started using them regularly.
Don't get me wrong. They are fine on smooth, flat, lightly travelled roads.
They are great fun. There is even a race series for the things. But when I
got mine, I imagined that with this foldable mo-ped I had solved the problem
of the "airport car". Not even close. If I have to go any distance, I'd
much prefer to be on a folding bike.
If you get one, be sure to get the carrying bag as the things get dirty.
- Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
>
>Dose not look good to look in NTSB accident reports and see two
>RV accidents listed for may 6 and 7. One a RV-3A in AZ. and a RV-6A
>in NM. on a first flight. Anyone in those areas have details.
>I hate reading seeing this in the reports.
>
>Lets all be careful out there.
>
>Jerry Springer
Jerry,
My wife saw a quick spot on the local news about the -6A. She said it was on
it's back, and mostly white in color. She didn't hear the name of the
pilot/owner. There were no follow up reports later in the day, and evidently
the pilot was unhurt or at least is doing OK.
Keep your wits about you up there folks, and fly safe!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <skywagon(at)rmi.net> |
Hi listers
I have been lurking for several months, building my tail, and learning
alot from you all. Now I have a burning question.
On the leading edges of the rudder and elevators, we are instructed to
bend them into a curve and pop-rivet them together. My next door hangar
neighbor has built several rv's, and has a 4 with 160 hp that has fairly
severe cracking on the trailing edges of rudder and elevators. He says
that the guys in Cal who build rvs for hire have started to leave the
leading edges open, that is, to bend them in to the curve, but then bend
both edges so they don't quite meet, and don't rivet them to each other.
Am I making an sense here? The theory being that the trailing edges
won't be so prone to cracking if it is not so rigid. This does not
really make sense to me, but experience is better than theory. Do any of
you have any knowledge of this?
RV8qb, finishing tail feathers, Pagosa Springs, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Higgins <tmhiggins(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Comanche engine/prop in RV-6? |
Anyone have any experience with using an engine/prop from a Comanche in
RV's, specifically the RV-6? Here are the details:
Engine: O-360-A1A
Hub: HC92ZK-8D
Blades: 8447A-12A
Pitch: High 27 deg., low 13 deg. at 30 in. station
Diamater: not over 72 1/4, not under 70.5
Thanks,
Tom Higgins
Newman Lake, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
i am in the process of skinning HS. during the process of getting the
ribs aligned and using the skin as a templet 101 times, i noticed that i
have some slight damage (scratches only) from clecoing to the rear spar
over and over. is there a way to remove or can they be filled in with a
primer prior to painting???-btw, only 3 or 4 holes. not that i am going
to try to win an awards with this bird but... any suggestions??? bob in
arkansas makin progress!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>i am in the process of skinning HS. during the process of getting the
>ribs aligned and using the skin as a templet 101 times, i noticed that i
>have some slight damage (scratches only) from clecoing to the rear spar
>over and over. is there a way to remove or can they be filled in with a
>primer prior to painting???-btw, only 3 or 4 holes. not that i am going
>to try to win an awards with this bird but... any suggestions??? bob in
>arkansas makin progress!!!
>
If the scratches are minor they will be covered and filled when you
paint the airplane. If some small scratches are the only booboo's you
find or do you'll be very lucky,
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edges |
John,
I haven't heard of this one in the 2+yrs I've been on the "List" maybe
someone else has.
As a side note: The tail skins are thicker on the RV-8/A and you might want
to check the archives for the thread on RTV on the trailing edge end of the
stiffeners, suppose to prevent creaking (we used it).
Good Building,
Chuck 8 Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A QB - finished the 2nd Trim Tab (looks good)
Niantic, CT
********************
>From: John Huft <skywagon(at)rmi.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV list
>Subject: RV-List: Leading edges
>Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 13:05:42 -0600
>
>
>Hi listers
>I have been lurking for several months, building my tail, and learning
>alot from you all. Now I have a burning question.
>On the leading edges of the rudder and elevators, we are instructed to
>bend them into a curve and pop-rivet them together. My next door hangar
>neighbor has built several rv's, and has a 4 with 160 hp that has fairly
>severe cracking on the trailing edges of rudder and elevators. He says
>that the guys in Cal who build rvs for hire have started to leave the
>leading edges open, that is, to bend them in to the curve, but then bend
>both edges so they don't quite meet, and don't rivet them to each other.
>Am I making an sense here? The theory being that the trailing edges
>won't be so prone to cracking if it is not so rigid. This does not
>really make sense to me, but experience is better than theory. Do any of
>you have any knowledge of this?
>RV8qb, finishing tail feathers, Pagosa Springs, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Hanson" <slhanson(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody else |
?
-----Original Message-----
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody
else ?
If you contact an independent agent such
>as Skysmith, the agent will contact the companies and give you the best
>quote he was able to obtain. Any other independent agent is locked out
>of getting his quote from the companies who have already given a quote
>to another agent. Thus you can get a quote from AVEMCO and from one
>independent agent. The moral seems to be to choose your first agent
>carefully as he will probably be your last agent with a quote aside from
>AVEMCO.
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
My experience differs with the above. When I bought my 6A I got a quote
from Skysmith and Regal, both quoted with AGI?. Skysmith was $100 cheaper,
but on Friday before I was to fly the plane home on Sunday the question of
the amount of instruction time came up. Skysmith thought I need 10 hours of
instruction for the insurance to be valid and could not get a clearification
until Monday because the underwriters office were closed. Regal called to
Phoneix(I believe) and found out that I did not need 10 hours of
instruction.
I am with Regal with 55k hull and 1M liability for $1550.00. This is a bit
higher than others on the list.
Gary Hanson
N246RV RV6A
Waiting for sunshine in Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edges |
In a message dated 5/8/99 6:42:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
<<
I haven't heard of this one in the 2+yrs I've been on the "List" maybe
someone else has. >>
Hello listers,
The open end control surfaces for the emp is something that the Rocket guys
do. There is no added strength by closing them up, and it is much easier to
do it this way.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
Just out of curiosity, how many people are interested in this Go-Ped deal and
are going to go forward. I am trying to get an idea of how many I will need
to carry, if any at all. Please let me know soon so that I can make sure to
have as many needed here so that I can send them out quickly. I appreciate
the consideration.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edges |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>On the leading edges of the rudder and elevators, we are instructed to
>bend them into a curve and pop-rivet them together. My next door
>hangar
>neighbor has built several rv's, and has a 4 with 160 hp that has
>fairly
>severe cracking on the trailing edges of rudder and elevators. He says
>that the guys in Cal who build rvs for hire have started to leave the
>leading edges open, that is, to bend them in to the curve, but then
>bend
>both edges so they don't quite meet, and don't rivet them to each
>other.
>
I believe doing this will have very little effect on the tendancy towards
cracking at the trailing edge rivets.
Though it could help the problem that some builders have with cracking at
rivets on the fwd end of the stiffeners right behind the spar.
If the leading edges are not curled enough, you will cause a pre-load of
the skin in this area just aft of the spar (if you are pulling the skins
a lot to bring them together, you are levering the skin acrossed the spar
which will cause it to crack at the fwd most rivet in the skin
stiffeners).
If you properly curl the leading edges, properly bend the trailing edge
closed, and for added insurance use a small amount of RTV or proseal to
mechanically tie the top and bottom stiffeners together (as described in
the const. manual), it just about guaranties that you will have no
cracking.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
When shielding for RF noise, the
>more
>places you can ground the shield, the better off you are. If you
>think
>that your strobe is radiating RF "hash" and you choose to shield the
>power
>wiring to the strobe power supply or shield the HV wiring from the
>power
>supply to the strobe light itself, ground that shield all over the
>place,
>or at least ground it at both ends. The more places the shield is
>grounded
>to the airframe, the better the shield will work as an RF shield.
>
>
This may be the case in most instances but not for the high voltage
cables between a Whelen power supply and the strobe assembly.
It directly goes against what Whelen recommends in their installation
instructions.
The High Voltage cable between the power supply and the strobe assembly
must have the shield tied to ground only at one end (usually the power
supply end) or it will cause "more" radiated noise.
I don't know why, but I have seen it my self.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: front spinner bulhead bolts too long |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>
>As I go around tweaking things on my plane I find that the drilled
>head
>1/4" bolts provided in the Van's spinner kit are too long for the
>tapped
>holes in the Hartzell prop front piece. (Van's OEM prop).
>
>
>I could get around this with washers but this would leave the threaded
>portion of the bolt in the holes rather than the shank.
>
>Is it acceptable practice to shorten (by grinding) AN bolts?
>
>
>Cheers,
>
>Leo Davies
>
I guess it would be acceptable as long as you could do it without getting
the bolt very hot.
Unless you have an older spinner kit it should have come with extra
washers, and instructions telling you to use 3 washers on each bolt.
This has been done on 100's of RV's with no problems at all.
I think you would have to shorten the bolt by a lot, and then use a thin
washer (AN960-416L) to get any of the bolt shank to protrude through the
fwd spinner bulkhead.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Balancing, why not? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>To anybody that might know,
>
>I was talking to one of our "aero elastic" (ok.... elasticity) guy
>here at work about flutter, and mentioned that the RV-3,4, and 6 don't
>have counterbalanced rudders. He was curious why not, particularly
>when I mentioned that the -8 does.
>
>Does anybody have a good answer why we don't other than "If Van says
>we don't need it, than that's good enough for me", or "we don't need
>no stinkin counterbalances", or "I don't know, but I'd guess.....".
>You know, the usual answers ;-)
>
>Look where the mind wanders when your working on baffles......
>
>Thanks,
>Laird RV-6 515L
>SoCal
>
>
I know there are others on the list thatr can provide more of a technical
reason, but I will give the simple explanation.
The rudder on an airplane is typicaly the least likely to have a flutter
problem. The tendancy to flutter is related to many factors. Such as
hinge position relative to the cord line, C.G. of surface relative to the
hinge point, play or elasticity an the control system that the control
surface is connected to, etc.
A large portion of the certified general aviation airplane fleet have
rudders with no counter ballance. Almost as a rule the elevators are
balanced and usually the ailerons are at least somewhat even if not 100
%. Some rudders are balanced but a large portion of them are not.
As far as RV's go, through flight testing Van has proven that if the
airplanes are flown within the recommended performance range (Max. VNE,
max gross weight, and for. and aft. C.G. range) They are safe
(actually a blast) to fly and are free of flutter if built following the
plans and construction manual.
If the builder makes changes to the design, or operates at higher speeds
than the recommended VNE then all bets are off.
It is then his/her responsibility to verify during the flight test period
that there airplane will be safe from flutter.
BTW... the RV-8 and RV-8A do have a counter balanced rudder. This was
done because of the expected higher cruise and top speeds using the
larger engines that the 8 and 8A are approved for. Since it wasn't known
what the actual margin between VNE and possible flutter was it was added
to the RV-8 to be conservative, though it doesn't seem likely to be a
major factor since Dave Anders (RV-4, 260+ MPH) and many others have been
pushing well past the recommended VNE of 210 MPH IAS.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing to spar bulkhead bolt washers under heads???? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>I have some hardened washers now to put under the heads of the spar
>center bolts
>(16 as I recall). If I put washers under the bolts, I am pretty sure
>they will
>be too short -- that a thread or two will be inside the spar.
>
>Are we sure about these washers??
>
>hal
>
>
Hal,
It is more difficult answering your question without you mentioning what
model RV you are building, but I will answer in a generic sence.
The NAS bolts that go in the holes at the center splice plates are sized
so that their will be bolt shank (no threads) through the entire assambly
(spars, and both the fwd and the aft splice plates).
Typicaly it requires 3 of these washers on each bolt (one under the bolt
head, and two under the nut) to keep the nut from bottoming out on the
bolt threads.
BTW... these aren't special (hardend) washers. They are just AN960-616
washers which are regular cad plated AN washers for 3/8 bolts.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Summers <stuartrv(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | RV6 Dual Throttle |
Has anybody fitted a dual throttle mechanism to allow 2 throttle
controls to be fitted.
I wish to fly the aircraft with my right hand and throttle on the left.
RGS
Stuart Summers
Brisbane , Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe-Radio |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Mike,
I find it interesting that the noise is only on transmit. Assuming
you still have the problem after you ring out the mic leads and strobe
grounds, the next thing I would look at is if the radio's higher current
draw on transmit is pointing to another problem.
Some quick checks:
- If the problem is worse when only on the battery (low voltage) compared
to normal bus voltage with the alternator on line.
- Measure voltage at the strobe with and without the radio keyed (strobe
on).
- Measure voltage at the radio with the stobe on, with and without the
radio keyed.
If you find an abnormal voltage drop associated with increased
current draw, then you will need to figure out what is causing it. Some
examples:
- High resistance contact on a switch/breaker/fuse/connector (check both
hot lead and ground lead).
- Power lead(s) not large enough for the load.
High resistance contacts are not common, but you may want to check
for this if the problem persists after your other checks.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A N716RV (reserved)
Vienna, VA
> The Whelen strobe system I have has a power supply on each wingtip;
>> however, the ground is attached to the airframe at the wingtip; could
>> this cause the problem? Should I have run a separate ground wire to
>> a
>> central point? Could a'ground loop' be causing this problem? Also, I
>> had
>> failed to mention that the problem is there even on the ground with
>> the
>> engine shut down. Thanks.
>
>That last is a happy circumstance: duplication on the ground, engine
>off!
>The ground would only be suspect, IMO, if there is only a hot line
>running out to the power supply, implying they are relying on a frame
>ground to complete the curcuit. If there is a two-conductor wire going
>out there... well, you should know how you wired the lights. Is there
>a hot line to the fuse/circuit breaker and another to a grounding bus?
>
>I'd simply run a wire (externally) from the battery ground out to the
>power supplies. You could check continuity with a meter, or just go
>ahead and connect the power supply grounds straight to the battery
>ground, fire it all up and call a friend for a radio check.
>We'll wait with bated breath for the results.
>:)
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>N140RV (Reserved)
>Wing Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Bowen" <mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edges |
John Harmon's Rocket II plans show the leading edges of rudder and elevators
this way. Before riveting skin to spar, you cut off the 1/4 inch flange off
of the bottom side, trim the top side to match, then bend a 1/4 inch flange
on top and bottom.. The leading edges are then rolled, leaving a gap down
the middle. I think the reason is to get a better gap seal to the
stabilizers. I haven't heard anyone say anything about it releiving
cracking in the trailing edge. If you use .016 skins on the rocket control
surfaces, you put a .016 doubler in the trailing edge. It is a 3-inch wide
piece bent in half lengthwise, then attached inside the trailing edge,
catching the aftmost rivet in each stiffener. It makes it a bit more
difficult to finalize the trailing edge bend, but it can be done.
Miles Bowen
----- Original Message -----
From: John Huft <skywagon(at)rmi.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 1999 12:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leading edges
>
the guys in Cal who build rvs for hire have started to leave the
> leading edges open, that is, to bend them in to the curve, but then bend
> both edges so they don't quite meet, and don't rivet them to each other.
> Am I making an sense here? The theory being that the trailing edges
> won't be so prone to cracking if it is not so rigid. This does not
> really make sense to me, but experience is better than theory. Do any of
> you have any knowledge of this?
> RV8qb, finishing tail feathers, Pagosa Springs, CO>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have the following parts for a RV-6
1 conical eng mount
1 set gear legs reinforced w/fiberglass rods
1 set of wheel paints and backing plates for above
1 set of gear leg fairings for above
All parts are from a conversion RV-6 to 6-A
Please contact me off list if interrested
passpat(at)aol.com
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 423/623 Tank Attach Splice |
Listers,
I have run into the one problem in building both wings in parallel: If
there's a problem, you have double trouble!
The archives turn up very little on this - I must have missed an item
in the Justice notes, or Will's or somewhere - but have reviewed and
find none.
On page 7-3 of the manual (circa 1998) in the Leading Edge Skins
section, Paragraph 2, second sentence, it plainly states to attach the
tank splice strips so that there is 1/2 inch extending past the skin -
this would be the part to which the tank will attach to the outboard
leading edge. My outboard leading edges are closed up now and have
exactly 1/2 inch of splice strip hanging out.
Had I known to look at drawing 18A to double check this spacing I would
have seen that the tank skins have 3/8 distance from the edge to the
center of the pre-punched attach hole.
I thought I was having a really great day, drilled my tank skins on,
everything fitting quite well (baffle, spar attach, even rib centers).
Got both done, not even midnight yet!
After removing a tank from the spar I noticed the holes in the attach
strip have very little edge distance. Like, 3/32!!!
Given the disagreement between the manual and drawing 18A - and
unfortunately the skins match the drawing - I can see why this problem
exists. Now, 1) Best way to fix? and 2) Why isn't everyone (building
a -6, anyway) running into this?
Not a happy camper this evening...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wing Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: 423/623 Tank Attach Splice |
Mike Thompson wrote:
> I have run into the one problem in building both wings in parallel: If
> there's a problem, you have double trouble!
Hmmm... do a large chunk on one wing, then do it on the other. That way
you'll pick up any gotchas before doing it twice. Alternate which wing
you work on first so you don't end up flying in circles :-)
> After removing a tank from the spar I noticed the holes in the attach
> strip have very little edge distance. Like, 3/32!!!
>
> Given the disagreement between the manual and drawing 18A - and
> unfortunately the skins match the drawing - I can see why this problem
> exists. Now, 1) Best way to fix? and 2) Why isn't everyone (building
> a -6, anyway) running into this?
1)
I had this (on one! wing) for the front several rivets -- the front
holes barely hit the attach flange. I rivetted a 'backing strip' (my
name for it) to the back of the attach flange. The backing strip is wide
enough so that the rivets have proper edge distance. It's rivetted to
the attach flange so that the new rivets are properly spaced from the
original holes.
I recall that I did write about this in my Bunny's Guide
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2b.htm> -- or maybe bunny2c or
bunny2d.
2) Some people don't like to display their mistakes in public. The OSH
judge might read it...
Frank
Skinning fuselage RV-6, Marton, New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
Bob, the scratches can be rubbed out using "Scotchbright" pads. Depending on
how deep the scratches are use gray color for mild scratches and maroon for
deeper scratches followed by a burninshing with the gray pad.
After you primer the area, you won't even know the scratches existed.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Fuselage)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: skin booboo
>
>i am in the process of skinning HS. during the process of getting the
>ribs aligned and using the skin as a templet 101 times, i noticed that i
>have some slight damage (scratches only) from clecoing to the rear spar
>over and over. is there a way to remove or can they be filled in with a
>primer prior to painting???-btw, only 3 or 4 holes. not that i am going
>to try to win an awards with this bird but... any suggestions??? bob in
>arkansas makin progress!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 423/623 Tank Attach Splice |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I have run into the one problem in building both wings in parallel: If
> there's a problem, you have double trouble!
Not always. When I parallel built my wings I installed the tie down bracket on
the left wing and then copied it exactly for the right wing. Problem was the
right wing tie down exited through the top skin, left out the bottom. I was
lucky and caught it before drilling the hole in the skin.
>
> After removing a tank from the spar I noticed the holes in the attach
> strip have very little edge distance. Like, 3/32!!!
Ouch!
>
> Given the disagreement between the manual and drawing 18A - and
> unfortunately the skins match the drawing - I can see why this problem
> exists. Now, 1) Best way to fix? and 2) Why isn't everyone (building
> a -6, anyway) running into this?
Given that you have 3/32" edge distance on your installed and drilled splice
plate, I would back up the plate with a 5/8" - 3/4" wide strip (032") riveting
it on in a couple of places between the holes already match drilled with the
tank skin. Dimple everything, install your nutplates and keep on building.
My manual (circa 1995) does not address this particular area.
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, CO
RV-6A s/n 22993 - all control surfaces wiggle the right way when the stick is
moved, Now I can really make airplane noises
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Boeing paint specs/etchprimer |
I know there is someone subscribing to the list that has access to the specs
and lives in the US.
Because of the copyright I think you could run into difficulty by posting
them directly onto the list.
Also,bare in mind that Boeing has a good standard but they might have
different requirements due to design or operations.
then there is also the point that factories may deviate from the specs and
recommedations made by the paint-manufactorer.
You are your own 'Aircraft factory'so you can excede specification of the
paint manufactorer in the same fashion as Boeing or Airbus would do it.
marcelderuiter(at)msn.com
Building RV4,G-RVMJ
Northern Ireland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool to sense torque |
Caution!! You might want inch-pounds! This is a very light measurement. I
was not able to find a torque wrench that went that small untill I looked at
1/4 inch drive wrenches. I found one at a local tool supply house. This is a
must have item in my book.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
PS - Just for general interest, do you know how many RV's are flying or
under construction in Argentina? Is home building popular in South America?
----- Original Message -----
From: Molinos Cabodi Hnos SA - JMFC <cabodijmfc(at)datasys.com.ar>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 12:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tool to sense torque
>
> I am building the HS in my RV-8, but I found a problem with 3/16 bolts. I
> cant get a torquemeter small enough to sense the bolts. Also, I am not
sure
> what torque is correct with these bolts (which attach the central brackets
> for the elevator), I think it is 20-25 pounds per square inch. Any idea?
>
> Pablo
> ARGENTINA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <planejoe(at)flnet.com> |
I went around the patch with a friend of mine in a RV6A, o320 engine and a
68-74 sterba prop. The engine has two hours since rebuilt to factory specs.
Full power RPM was 2400. Immediatly after lift off, cyl hd temp got up to
425 F and climbing. At 800' agl we did an abbreviated down, x wind, final
and landed. Is anyone using a sterba prop on an RV6A if so what is your
prop pitch and length. thanks ahead.
RV6AFinish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Running Xponder and Comm wires |
Can I run these two coax wires in a bundle together until they split apart
to go to the respective antennaes, or do they need to be run seperately to
avoid interference?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Front spar goof..... |
Hi guys...
I finally found out that when you start to feel good about something, it
usually comes out to bite you anyway...... I was fitting my HS-602
front spar to the rear spar assembly and things were going great. After
drilling and clecoed the HS-608 ribs to HS-602, I moved on to the
inboard HS-405's. Upon closer inspection I seen that I would not meet 2
Dia
tolerance on the tongue of HS-405 when drilling from HS-810 into
HS-405. After cursing for awhile and wondering why I drilled those
blasted holes when fabricating HS-810 and HS-814 instead of waiting like
I was suppose to I looked for a solution. I seen that I had some room
before the start of the radius on HS-602, so I fabricated new tongues
for the HS-405 ribs and riveted them with 4 -4 rivets each. Tolerances
are met now, my question is does anyone see a problem with the fix I
did.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Empennage
Bonnyville, Ab Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Running Xponder and Comm wires |
>
>Can I run these two coax wires in a bundle together until they split apart
>to go to the respective antennaes, or do they need to be run seperately to
>avoid interference?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
Paul,
I asked this same question recently, and the consensus was that you can run
them together and all should be fine. I have since decided to place the com
antenna on one side of the belly, and the xpndr antenna on the other side.
So I'll be running the cables independently down through the gear boxes,
then somehow through, around, or over the wing bulkhead to get them to the
belly skins. This is for a -8, of course, but the same methodology could be
applied to the -6.
Brian Denk
Albuquerque, NM
RV8 N94BD
engine stuff
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front spar goof..... |
Dave,
That sounds to me like a valid fix. Anyone else? Scott McDaniels?
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
RV-4 tidying the engine room preparatory to mounting the prop
>
>Upon closer inspection I seen that I would not meet 2
>Dia
>tolerance on the tongue of HS-405 when drilling from HS-810 into
>HS-405. I seen that I had some room
>before the start of the radius on HS-602, so I fabricated new tongues
>for the HS-405 ribs and riveted them with 4 -4 rivets each. Tolerances
>are met now, my question is does anyone see a problem with the fix I
>did.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
"joseph.wiza" wrote:
>
>
> I went around the patch with a friend of mine in a RV6A, o320 engine and a
> 68-74 sterba prop. The engine has two hours since rebuilt to factory specs.
> Full power RPM was 2400. Immediatly after lift off, cyl hd temp got up to
> 425 F and climbing. At 800' agl we did an abbreviated down, x wind, final
> and landed. Is anyone using a sterba prop on an RV6A if so what is your
> prop pitch and length. thanks ahead.
>
> RV6AFinish kit
>
Can't tell much from the info you gave here is it a 160hp or 150hp?
74 is way to much prop for a 150 or 160 IMO. I use a 72X74 Warnke
on my 180hp O-360. Is this the first flight? If not what does the
temps do in level flight after the climb? A new engine is naturally
going to run hot for a while.
Is full power rpm 2400 at level flight cruse. what does it turn
static? I would think that it should at least turn 21-2300 static.
Jerry Springer|RV-6 flying since 7/14/89|Hillsboro,OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice - Avemco insurance / Skysmith / Somebody |
else ?
In a message dated 5/8/99 6:31:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
slhanson(at)teleport.com writes:
> If you contact an independent agent such
> >as Skysmith, the agent will contact the companies and give you the best
> >quote he was able to obtain. Any other independent agent is locked out
> >of getting his quote from the companies who have already given a quote
> >to another agent. Thus you can get a quote from AVEMCO and from one
> >independent agent. The moral seems to be to choose your first agent
> >carefully as he will probably be your last agent with a quote aside from
> >AVEMCO.
>
>
> >Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
>
> My experience differs with the above. When I bought my 6A I got a quote
> from Skysmith and Regal, both quoted with AGI?.
>
> Gary Hanson
As an independant agent I will answer this one. You can get quotes from any
agent with the same company such as AIG. The differnce in premium will come
difference each agency has in their contract with the insurance company.
There are only 7 companies writing aviation insurance. So alot depends on
the agent.
Chris Wilcox
CGW Insurance/Investments
355 N. Westhaven Dr. 103
Oshkosh, WI 54904
(920) 235-1082 bus.
(920) 235-1083 Fax
www.cgwi.com web site
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | In Lbs to Ft Lbs? |
I have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 in-lbs, but I need to torque a
bolt to 450-500 in-lbs. I also have a torque wrench that goes up to 250
foot-lbs. Now, am I correct in assuming 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs? If not, what is
the conversion?
Thanks,
Moe Colontonio
moejoe3(at)home.com
www.tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron twist. |
Dear Listers; I have just finished my first aileron and when I lay it on the
flat table one trailing edge is about .2" higher than the other. Is this a
significant variation?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: grounding your wiring to eliminate noise |
>
>This may be the case in most instances but not for the high voltage
>cables between a Whelen power supply and the strobe assembly.
>It directly goes against what Whelen recommends in their installation
>instructions.
>The High Voltage cable between the power supply and the strobe assembly
>must have the shield tied to ground only at one end (usually the power
>supply end) or it will cause "more" radiated noise.
>I don't know why, but I have seen it my self.
You are right, I forgot about magnetic coupling of the HV line to the
shield. If the shield is grounded at both ends, when the bulb fires there
is a strong current pulse that is magnetically coupled to the shield. If
the shield is grounded at both ends then this current pulse is impressed
across the airframe between the two ends of the shield. The trick to
improving electrostatic shielding without creating a ground loop and ground
currents is either the aformentioned small capacitor or a low-value, e.g.
10 ohms or so, between the shield and ground. The capacitor will keep the
shield isolated from DC and audio frequency signals while effectively
grounding the shield for RF. The resistor limits the current while still
keeping the shield at ground potential.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? |
>
>Now, am I correct in assuming 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs?
Yes.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? |
Very good! Just divide 450 by 12 and that is your lower setting for your
foot-pound wrench. Add 4 ft-lbs for the upper. 50 in-lbs ~ 4 ft-lbs. It
is 37.5 to 41.666 ft-pounds to be exact.
-----Original Message-----
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe3(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, May 09, 1999 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: In Lbs to Ft Lbs?
>
>I have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 in-lbs, but I need to torque a
>bolt to 450-500 in-lbs. I also have a torque wrench that goes up to 250
>foot-lbs. Now, am I correct in assuming 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs? If not, what
is
>the conversion?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe3(at)home.com
>www.tabshred.com/moe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron twist. |
JFW9855(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Listers; I have just finished my first aileron and when I lay it on the
> flat table one trailing edge is about .2" higher than the other. Is this a
> significant variation?
.2" = about 3/16"
From my Bunny's Guide <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm>:
I found I had a bad twist (half inch or so) in the aileron skeleton when
it was finally rivetted. The clecos stopped me noticing it earlier. I
drilled out one poprivet from the counterbalance and shimmed it, but
this didn't totally eliminate the twist. I thought that, when I drill
out the temporary rivets, I could shim one of the tip ribs to line
everything up. In the end, that wasn't possible; once rivetted together,
the aileron is very rigid and impossible to twist straight.
Bill Benedict at Vans said "It will be airworthy, but I would drill the
CS4-4 rivets out of the bottom, flatten the aileron out, drill three new
holes, one on each end (between existing holes) and one in the middle to
hold everything in place, then run a drill through the existing holes
and rerivet it back together. Should work fine. If you need to, add more
rivets between the existing rivets, depending on how much you need to
open up the existing holes." I tried this; however, this didn't
straighten it out properly, I think because the twist was in the
skeleton. I've now built another left aileron.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Front spar goof..... |
Dave,
The new flange on the front of HS-405 (a.k.a. tongue) is equivalent to the
original, and it has good edge distance. The only difference is that it is
a separate part, riveted to the rest of the rib. So, you have effectively
done a repair on the HS skeleton. Does this repair have the required
strength?
There are two ways to get an answer to this question:
1. AC43.13-1B has lots of info on repairs (plus lots of other useful
stuff). There are tables which tell you how many rivets you need to use to
make sure that the joint between the HS-405 and the new front piece has the
same strength as the original one piece HS-405. If I am interpreting
things correctly, Table 4-10 on page 4-58 of AC43.13-1B says that you need
4.9 rivets per inch of width of material. There is a 75% factor for single
sheet lap joints. The joint in the HS-405 will be about 3.5 inches wide,
so you would need 4.9 X .75 X 3.5 = 13 rivets to get the full strength.
These rivets would need to go in several rows, because you would need to
violate the 3D min spacing criteria to put them all in a single row.
But, you may not need full strength in this joint, as the skin is carrying
most of the load. However, I'm not a structural engineer, so I can't tell
you how many rivets this repair really needs. So, see thought #2 (next para).
2. If you are not sure about something, and it could have implications for
the airworthiness of the aircraft, contact Van's. They provide good e-mail
response.
>
>Hi guys...
>
>I finally found out that when you start to feel good about something, it
>usually comes out to bite you anyway...... I was fitting my HS-602
>front spar to the rear spar assembly and things were going great. After
>drilling and clecoed the HS-608 ribs to HS-602, I moved on to the
>inboard HS-405's. Upon closer inspection I seen that I would not meet 2
>Dia
>tolerance on the tongue of HS-405 when drilling from HS-810 into
>HS-405. After cursing for awhile and wondering why I drilled those
>blasted holes when fabricating HS-810 and HS-814 instead of waiting like
>I was suppose to I looked for a solution. I seen that I had some room
>before the start of the radius on HS-602, so I fabricated new tongues
>for the HS-405 ribs and riveted them with 4 -4 rivets each. Tolerances
>are met now, my question is does anyone see a problem with the fix I
>did.
>
>Dave Hrycauk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frontiernet.net" <pmactagg(at)frontiernet.net> |
Hey...Does anyone have any experience installing an H2AD? I have mine hung
and I am starting to figure out the plumbing. I'm having a hard time with
the fuel line routing. With the fuel pump out front I am not comfortable
with the options I've thought of so far without worrying about vapor lock.
I thought I would run them horizontally straight over to the baffling, then
through a grommeted hole and then follow the outside of the baffling over
the top of the valve covers with padded clamps and to the rear. I
obviously need the "to" and "from" lines so with two of them they will
probably route together to the rear of the engine. Anyone have a
suggestion. Can I run them straight back over the cylinders and out the
back of the baffling? Obvious thought is "TO HOT". If I run them
straight down through the intake baffling and under, I will need to route
them past the crossover exhaust. I hope someone out there has a completed
RV-6 with this motor on it that has a proven method. I would also
appreciate any other help, maybe a web page with pic's or diagram in the
installation of this motor. I don't want to re-invent the wheel.... unless
I have to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frontiernet.net" <pmactagg(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Rear spar carrythrough |
I mounted my wings with the airframe upside down in order to drill my
landing gear in my RV-6A. I noticed that my rear spar attach was about 1/4
inch out of alignment, (high) with the rear spar carrythrough with the
plane upright. When I attach my wings in anticipation of setting the
incidence etc, which I am about to do, is it acceptable to put pressure
downward on the rear of the wing to move it that much into place? I am
worrying about pre-loading a twist in the wing. Is this something I should
be very concerned about, or have some of you run into the same problem. I
called Van's, (Not sure who I talked to) and they said I shouldn't worry
about twisting the wing. If I knew someone out there had the same problem,
and has 38000 hours on their RV6 with no problems I would feel better about
it. I know the difference between the horizontal stabilizer and wing is
what is important, so I can just adjust the stab to get the correct
difference between the two, but I want to make sure I have the edge
distance on the rear spar when drilled so I will have to force it into
place to a certain extent to get that edge distance on the rear spar attach
points.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear spar carrythrough |
<< I noticed that my rear spar attach was about 1/4
inch out of alignment, (high) with the rear spar carrythrough with the
plane upright. When I attach my wings in anticipation of setting the
incidence etc, which I am about to do, is it acceptable to put pressure
downward on the rear of the wing to move it that much into place? >>
I had to move one of mine about that far. I'd say it took 10 lbs of pressure.
Given the large forces involved when these things fly, I don't think a 10 lb
preload will even be noticed by the airframe.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
>
>Hey...Does anyone have any experience installing an H2AD? I have mine hung
>and I am starting to figure out the plumbing. I'm having a hard time with
>the fuel line routing. With the fuel pump out front I am not comfortable
>with the options I've thought of so far without worrying about vapor lock.
>I thought I would run them horizontally straight over to the baffling, then
>through a grommeted hole and then follow the outside of the baffling over
>the top of the valve covers with padded clamps and to the rear. I
>obviously need the "to" and "from" lines so with two of them they will
>probably route together to the rear of the engine. Anyone have a
>suggestion. Can I run them straight back over the cylinders and out the
>back of the baffling? Obvious thought is "TO HOT". If I run them
>straight down through the intake baffling and under, I will need to route
>them past the crossover exhaust. I hope someone out there has a completed
>RV-6 with this motor on it that has a proven method. I would also
>appreciate any other help, maybe a web page with pic's or diagram in the
>installation of this motor. I don't want to re-invent the wheel.... unless
>I have to.
>
My obvious thought is that if you run the lines over the cylinders
they will be in the COOL air before it has been heated up by the
cylinders.
The problem you might have with routing them over the cylinders is
that they will be subject to the residual heat in the engine whenever
you shut it down. Could have vapor problems when you start up after
that $50 hamburger.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron rigging problem; 6A |
To those who know more than I,
Today I spent all day finishing up my aileron controls and navaid servo
installation. After getting all the correct Seastrom brand washers in
all the correct places and all the bolts tightened down I drilled my
aileron UP stops. This is where the problems start. When I move my right
aileron from stop to stop, the left aileron gets 30 up degrees and 17
down. Repeating the process for the left aileron, the right gets it's
proper 30 up, but only gets 13.6 down. That was the first tip that
something was wrong. Here is what I think could possibly be the problem:
1. The in-trail, or neutral position, of one of the ailerons was
incorrect when set with the bell cranks pinned. This is hard to set as
the only real reference is the tooling holes on the tip rib of the wing
and aileron. I don't really trust my airfoil template.
2. The incidence angle of the wings differ greatly. I have double
checked this several times so I doubt that this is the problem. I'll
check it again.
3. One or both wings have a built-in twist. Gosh, I hope not.
4. The hole positions on the aileron bell cranks are slightly different.
This is hard to measure with the cranks installed so this has not been
checked.
The only hard evidence I have found is that the aileron push rod (bell
crank to aileron) is 1/4" longer (bolt hole to bolt hole) on the right
aileron. My pea brain says this is the problem and is caused by option 1
above.
What do you guys think?
Sorry that this was so long.
TIA
Gary Zilik
6A
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rigging problem; 6A |
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Today I spent all day finishing up my aileron controls and navaid servo
>
This is where the problems start. When I move my right
> aileron from stop to stop, the left aileron gets 30 up degrees and 17
> down. Repeating the process for the left aileron, the right gets it's
> proper 30 up, but only gets 13.6 down. That was the first tip that
> something was wrong. Here is what I think could possibly be the problem:
>
> 1. The in-trail, or neutral position, of one of the ailerons was
> incorrect when set with the bell cranks pinned. This is hard to set as
> the only real reference is the tooling holes on the tip rib of the wing
> and aileron. I don't really trust my airfoil template.
>
> 2. The incidence angle of the wings differ greatly. I have double
> checked this several times so I doubt that this is the problem. I'll
> check it again.
>
> 3. One or both wings have a built-in twist. Gosh, I hope not.
>
> 4. The hole positions on the aileron bell cranks are slightly different.
> This is hard to measure with the cranks installed so this has not been
> checked.
>
> The only hard evidence I have found is that the aileron push rod (bell
> crank to aileron) is 1/4" longer (bolt hole to bolt hole) on the right
aileron. My pea brain says this is the problem and is caused by option 1
above.
>
Hi Gary.
I would check and see if your aileron bellcranks are in exactly the same
position when pinned. In other words are both aileron bellcrank neutral
positions the same.
I could not drill accurate enough holes for pinning mine in neutral and
made 2 identical brackets to clamp the bellcranks in what I hope is
identical neutral positions.
George McNutt Langley B.C.
Rivitting Ffuse skinss.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | HS skeleton twist/rib alignment |
2 quick questions: 1. in getting the skeleton alingned with skins as
templets i have to twist the front spar and ribs a little to get holes
to align (to meet lines drawn). i used a fine magic marker-not the wide
type-iam sure if i used the wide type i would be ok 2. what variance
would be alowed for drilling hole into spar and ribs?? in other words,
how far from edges of ribs and front spar is acceptable?? 2 times the
diam of hole (center) to edge?? i still must twist some to get the spar
exactly square- am i ok?? bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hunter" <ozzy(at)better.net.au> |
| Subject: | For Aussie Builders. |
I have for sale : one set of baffles ( new ) for LYC 360
exhaust system (new stainless) for LYC 360
Both items are ex Fuji aircraft . I was going to use them but went with the
Lyc 320 instead.
Yours for cost---AUD $650.
Brian Hunter
RV-6 finishing kit & fun stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Denny" <prvdenny(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Dual Throttle |
Stuart, I'm not sure how to send out a message regarding a good way of
removing the white plastic from the aluminum, especially when it's been on
for a long time. Vans suggests using a heat gun or hair dryer- all i did was
burn myself! Do you or anyone else know a better way HELLLLLPPPPP!!
Peter Denny prvdenny(at)powerup.com.au
-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart Summers <stuartrv(at)powerup.com.au>
Date: Sunday, 9 May 1999 10:42
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Dual Throttle
>
>Has anybody fitted a dual throttle mechanism to allow 2 throttle
>controls to be fitted.
>I wish to fly the aircraft with my right hand and throttle on the left.
>
>RGS
>Stuart Summers
>Brisbane , Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Rvers
I have not flown in an RV yet. Would anyone in the South or Central
Florida area be willing to do a kindness and take me up?
Of course, I'll pay for gas and lunch.
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Miami Beach, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I Just Saved $1,000 dollars On My Insurance Bill For My RV6A |
FWIW, I am insured with the United Services Automobile Association (USAA). Many
of you may be familiar with this company that insures active and retired
military officers. I have automobile, homeowner's, and liability umbrella
policies with USAA. When it was time to insure my aircraft, I obtained
insurance through the USAA General Agency. USAA does not write aircraft
policies itself. If I have a claim, USAA pays it and collects from the company
that underwrites the policy.
I received a letter from them recently asking for current information for policy
renewal; the letter advised me that USAA had decided that USAIG will be the only
aircraft insurer with whom USAA will negotiate aircraft policies. I infer from
this that USAA, arguably the "best" insurance provider in the country (according
to Consumer's Report), has decided that USAIG provides the best service to its
customers for the cost.
Again, just FWIW.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> I called AOPA for insurance and they got me signed up with AIG. The people
> were very courteous and efficient, and my policy went from $2,125 with
> Avemco down to $1,150 for the same limits with AIG for my RV6A. As a side
> note, when I mentioned to the Avemco staff and an Avemco manager that their
> prices were way higher for me than all the other companies I talked to, they
> had a very bad attitude like take it or leave it. I cancelled my policy
> with them immediately and bound with AIG ! Now I can use that $1,000 extra
> dollars a year for lots of gas. (By the way, I insured my RV for $65,000
> hull and $1,000,000 liability.)
>
> A happy RVer
>
> Scott Johnson / Chicago
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comanche engine/prop in RV-6? |
Tom,
Dave Barnhart wrote an article in the RVator last year on installing a
Comanche engine in a RV. I believe it was out of a twin. Not sure if
it would be relevant. If yours is from a Comanche 180 the engine should
work fine. I think there are a lot of 0360 A1A's out there in RVs. I
don't think you will want to use the prop. (155 mph vis 195 mph, 2100 lbs
vis 1050 lbs, etc...)
Good luck,
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, Az
RV6-Tanks
>
>Anyone have any experience with using an engine/prop from a Comanche in
>RV's, specifically the RV-6?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | HS610 & HS614 Fabrication |
I tried something today that worked pretty well, so I thought I'd share it.
When removing one leg of the angle stock at each end of the HS610 or HS614,
it's difficult to file off the "stump" that remains after you've made the
cut without scratching the remaining leg. I cut mine in a radial arm saw,
so the "stump" was only about .010" or .015" high, and pretty consistent.
But it was still tricky to file. What I did was cut up a beer can and
clamp--or tape--the thin aluminum can material over the good leg of the
angle
stock. I could then file pretty vigorously without marring any good
aluminum. I found I could get the "stump" down to only about .002" or
.003" high, and very smooth and consistent all the way across. Then it was
very easy to finish the job on the Scotchbrite wheel.
Tedd McHenry tedd(at)compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/
Surrey, BC, Canada
RV-6 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? |
YEs :
lever arm x force = torque.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 in-lbs, but I need to
>torque a
>bolt to 450-500 in-lbs. I also have a torque wrench that goes up to
>250
>foot-lbs. Now, am I correct in assuming 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs? If not,
>what is
>the conversion?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe3(at)home.com
>www.tabshred.com/moe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
Several people expressed interest in the RV-6A accident in Truth or
Consequences NM last week. The following is copied from an e-mail from a
friend of mine who lives in the area. He is a pilot
>The RV6 was built and flown by a ag pilot who hadn't flown in about 5
>years. It crashed on its maiden flight due probably to high winds and
>incompetence. He ballooned, porpoised,
>landed on the nose gear which collapsed and then flipped on it back. He
>was not hurt, other than a bump on the head. It flew well, he said, and
>performed great. Just couldn't get
>it back down.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP Inspection Friday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Low Oil warning switch |
"TaylorD"
To all,
I found a 4 psi oil pressure switch from VDO that has 2 circuits. One normally
open for an low pressure warning light, and another normally closed for your
Hobbs meter (if your running one). It uses 1/8 NPT like most other transducers.
VDO part # 230 604
I wanted to have a "Low Oil Pressure" Idiot light on the dash (as well as an actual
hour meter) just to get my attention in case my scan wasn't working well.
(I know, I know, I got to work on that :-) )
Any auto parts store should be able to order one for you, or call PAW @ 1-818-678-3000.
You could get one from Jegs or Summit as well. The part costs $20.00
Just thought somebody might like to know.
Laird RV-6 baffles
SoCal (Whiteman)
Hey Dwain and Walt- would you guys quit flying your RV's so much. Your making
me jealous :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
With the permission of the owner-builder-pilot, I submit the following on the 6A
accident in New Mexico: Aircraft is 6A with new Vans 0320 and Sensinich fixed
pitch prop. Weather briefing called for light winds but pilot encountered gusty
conditions at end of 2-hour first flight, made three passes at main runway at
Truth or Consequences Municipal. As there are numerous dirt runways at this
airport, he opted for one that was more into the wind. He reported a good
touchdown on the mains followed by a noseup and subsequent second landing which
tore off the nosegear. Ripped off clean at the engine mount attach point. AC
flipped over and canopy had to be broken out for pilot egress. I wasn't there
for the landing but we got the bird righted w/o further damage and hangared.
The dirt runway was kind of loose sand and had some very soft spots. I don't
think the sand liked those wheelpants. BTW, builder is experienced pilot with
a good number of taildragger hours. This is his second homebuilt; other was a
Kitfox.
Note to those of us getting ready for first flight: forego the wheelpants if you
think you might have to land out. Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to get some RV
time before that first flight...
Builder sustained head cuts and sore shoulder. He's currently at home putting
together a parts list for Vans.
Jim S. New Mexico RV6A 360/CS FAA inspection done, cosmetics
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >Dose not look good to look in NTSB accident reports and see two
> >RV accidents listed for may 6 and 7. One a RV-3A in AZ. and a RV-6A
> >in NM. on a first flight. Anyone in those areas have details.
> >I hate reading seeing this in the reports.
> >
> >Lets all be careful out there.
> >
> >Jerry Springer
>
> Jerry,
>
> My wife saw a quick spot on the local news about the -6A. She said it was on
> it's back, and mostly white in color. She didn't hear the name of the
> pilot/owner. There were no follow up reports later in the day, and evidently
> the pilot was unhurt or at least is doing OK.
>
> Keep your wits about you up there folks, and fly safe!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | ACRO SPECIALTIES |
Trying to contact Doug Dodge at ACRO SPECIALTIES for one last try at
purchasing one of his units. I called today and the phone just kept ringing.
No answering machine at the other end. Anyone know what happened?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Sr. Director
Oracle Data Center
650-506-2740
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
I believe that this would be a good time to remind everyone who is getting
close to that first flight, or knows someone who is getting close, to take
advantage of EAA's Flight Advisor program or get some time in an RV with an
experienced RV pilot, i.e. Mike Seager. Using the Flight Advisor program's
recommendations, the first flight should only be about 30-45 minutes in
length. After landing, the champagne should flow, and the cowling comes off
to make sure nothing inside the cowling is flowing on the exterior of the
engine. The next few flights should begin to stretch the envelope and flight
time. A shorter flight at the beginning of the testing period will also
allow for fewer weather changes.
I am also an experienced pilot, flying professionally (737's) and
instructing for the past 19 years. That, however, doesn't qualify me to make
the first flight in my RV-6, whenever that will be, until I get either some
time in another RV or in an equivalent flying airplane. Even though I have
never done a test flight, I have flown over fifty models of aircraft and am
a Flight Advisor in the Cleveland, OH area. I am always looking for
recommendations in this area, so any other suggestions are extremely
welcomed.
Gary Baker RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved) Medina, OH
>
>With the permission of the owner-builder-pilot, I submit the following on
the 6A
>accident in New Mexico: Aircraft is 6A with new Vans 0320 and Sensinich
fixed
>pitch prop. Weather briefing called for light winds but pilot encountered
gusty
>conditions at end of 2-hour first flight, made three passes at main runway
at
>Truth or Consequences Municipal. As there are numerous dirt runways at
this
>airport, he opted for one that was more into the wind. He reported a good
>touchdown on the mains followed by a noseup and subsequent second landing
which
>tore off the nosegear. Ripped off clean at the engine mount attach point.
AC
>flipped over and canopy had to be broken out for pilot egress. I wasn't
there
>for the landing but we got the bird righted w/o further damage and
hangared.
>The dirt runway was kind of loose sand and had some very soft spots. I
don't
>think the sand liked those wheelpants. BTW, builder is experienced pilot
with
>a good number of taildragger hours. This is his second homebuilt; other
was a
>Kitfox.
>
>Note to those of us getting ready for first flight: forego the wheelpants
if you
>think you might have to land out. Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to get some
RV
>time before that first flight...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
Whats the report on the RV-3 in AZ ??? Jim--NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Audio Flight Avionics |
| From: | "Stephen C. MacInnis" <stevemac1(at)Juno.com> |
Does anybody know what's up with Audio Flight Avionics? I can't seem to
get a return phone call from them. I don't think I'm alone in that
regard. Rod's voice mail is full.
Thanks,
Steve MacInnis: waiting on engine monitor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net> |
Listers
This info came to me third hand. An RV-6 crashed in Apalachacola,FL.
(It's a small fishing village in the Florida Panhandle).
The airport manager told a friend of mine the fuel selector valve
was at fault. The pilot walked away, but the plane was a complete loss.
I saw this plane about a year ago, it looked well built and had a nice
paint job.
I'm glad the pilot was OK.
I'll post more info as I get it.
Craig Hiers
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven B. Janicki" <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
In my humble opinion I would suggest that good additions to a preparation
checklist would be:
1. Get some RV time. Nothing beats flying an RV as a confidence builder.
2. Take a 5 - 10 hour Aerobatics Safety Course. Know how to get out of
trouble should you get into it. I took the Sean D. Tucker course with Ralph
Riddel as my instructor. He and his son have flown competition Aerobatics in
an RV-4. I believe Ralph and his son were the first to explore inverted
spins in an RV-4. Needless to say that was a great confidence builder for me
and as Ralph put it "The RV is an Honest Airplane"!
3. Work with your local EAA Flight Counselor or other RVator that has been
were you are going.
All my personal opinions.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Baker <gtbaker(at)bright.net>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Two day two accidents
>
> I believe that this would be a good time to remind everyone who is getting
> close to that first flight, or knows someone who is getting close, to take
> advantage of EAA's Flight Advisor program or get some time in an RV with
an
> experienced RV pilot, i.e. Mike Seager. Using the Flight Advisor program's
> recommendations, the first flight should only be about 30-45 minutes in
> length. After landing, the champagne should flow, and the cowling comes
off
> to make sure nothing inside the cowling is flowing on the exterior of the
> engine. The next few flights should begin to stretch the envelope and
flight
> time. A shorter flight at the beginning of the testing period will also
> allow for fewer weather changes.
>
> I am also an experienced pilot, flying professionally (737's) and
> instructing for the past 19 years. That, however, doesn't qualify me to
make
> the first flight in my RV-6, whenever that will be, until I get either
some
> time in another RV or in an equivalent flying airplane. Even though I have
> never done a test flight, I have flown over fifty models of aircraft and
am
> a Flight Advisor in the Cleveland, OH area. I am always looking for
> recommendations in this area, so any other suggestions are extremely
> welcomed.
>
> Gary Baker RV-6 (Working on wings)
> N4GB (Reserved) Medina, OH
>
> >
> >With the permission of the owner-builder-pilot, I submit the following on
> the 6A
> >accident in New Mexico: Aircraft is 6A with new Vans 0320 and Sensinich
> fixed
> >pitch prop. Weather briefing called for light winds but pilot encountered
> gusty
> >conditions at end of 2-hour first flight, made three passes at main
runway
> at
> >Truth or Consequences Municipal. As there are numerous dirt runways at
> this
> >airport, he opted for one that was more into the wind. He reported a
good
> >touchdown on the mains followed by a noseup and subsequent second landing
> which
> >tore off the nosegear. Ripped off clean at the engine mount attach
point.
> AC
> >flipped over and canopy had to be broken out for pilot egress. I wasn't
> there
> >for the landing but we got the bird righted w/o further damage and
> hangared.
> >The dirt runway was kind of loose sand and had some very soft spots. I
> don't
> >think the sand liked those wheelpants. BTW, builder is experienced pilot
> with
> >a good number of taildragger hours. This is his second homebuilt; other
> was a
> >Kitfox.
> >
> >Note to those of us getting ready for first flight: forego the wheelpants
> if you
> >think you might have to land out. Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to get
some
> RV
> >time before that first flight...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
>
>Does anybody know what's up with Audio Flight Avionics? I can't seem to
>get a return phone call from them. I don't think I'm alone in that
>regard. Rod's voice mail is full.
Well it wasn't full when I just called. I spoke with Rod about 2-3 weeks
ago and everything was fine. Yes, they are slower than molasses in January
when it comes to getting things to you but then, so are some other
suppliers (it took me a LOT longer to get my new prop than it did to get my
AV-10).
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <Vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Gentlemen,
The unthinkable recently happened, MY HARD DRIVE DIED! Obviously, I have replaced
it and am back online. However, all of my bookmarks and email addresses are
history. Can one of you send me (off list of course, don't want to waste bandwidth)
the addresses for the Yeller Pages, Frank Justice, Bunny's, and any
others that you think are valuable?
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SDuford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Vince,
try: http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/intlinks.htm
Sylvain
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> The unthinkable recently happened, MY HARD DRIVE DIED! Obviously, I have
replaced it and am back online. However, all of my bookmarks and email
addresses are history. Can one of you send me (off list of course, don't
want to waste bandwidth) the addresses for the Yeller Pages, Frank Justice,
Bunny's, and any others that you think are valuable?
>
> Vince
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Shipping Cost |
Any RV builders here in the midwest,could you give me an idea on how much
shipping will be for the wings, getting ready to place an order.
Chris Santschi #80881. Finishing rudder.
Festus,MO.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
Steve,
Me too, and Ive been waiting for an instrument since Oct. If you hear
anything let me know.
Mike Wills
RV-4 finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>Does anybody know what's up with Audio Flight Avionics? I can't seem to
>get a return phone call from them. I don't think I'm alone in that
>regard. Rod's voice mail is full.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve MacInnis: waiting on engine monitor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
| From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
posted by: "Frontiernet.net"
>Hey...Does anyone have any experience installing an H2AD? I have mine
hung
>and I am starting to figure out the plumbing. I'm having a hard time
FWIW Mine is one of two RV-6's flying out of our airport with H2AD
engines, one with about 120 hours TTAF and one with about 65 hours.
Neither has had a problem with vapor lock.
We both ran our fuel lines essentially the same way. We came out of the
left side of the firewall, about half way up. Then, up along the top
left-hand tube of the engine mount and through the rear baffle left of
center and on to the fuel pump. The output line from the fuel pump loops
around the left side of the pump and then runs along side the input line
through the rear baffle. From there it drops down to the carb.
Each of our engines had two hoist attachment rings which provided good
attachment points for a piece of 1/8" angle stock which in turn provided
secure attachment for the input and output lines running to the carb.
There are two more lines to be concerned with at the fuel pump, the line
to the fuel pressure sender and the overflow line. Both drop vertically
from the fuel pump through the baffle "ramp". The overflow line runs aft
under the cylinders and exits the cowling next to the left gear leg. The
line to the fuel pressure sender runs directly sideways under the baffle
ramp and then along the outside of the baffling to the sender located on
upper left hand side of the firewall.
One caveat concerning the line to fuel pressure sender. The 90 deg carb
fitting found in Van's catalog which is drilled and tapped for a pressure
line interferes with the forward baffle. Instead, I used the 45 deg
fitting to get a little more clearance. I still had to use a piece of
rubber between the fitting and the baffle. Also, I had to get the
fitting drilled and tapped for a fuel pressure sender line fitting.
Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH :)
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
vince, i 'd be glad to help. e me, if u still need the addresses. bob in
arkansas
SDuford wrote:
>
> Vince,
> try: http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/intlinks.htm
>
> Sylvain
>
> >
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > The unthinkable recently happened, MY HARD DRIVE DIED! Obviously, I have
> replaced it and am back online. However, all of my bookmarks and email
> addresses are history. Can one of you send me (off list of course, don't
> want to waste bandwidth) the addresses for the Yeller Pages, Frank Justice,
> Bunny's, and any others that you think are valuable?
> >
> > Vince
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | instrument training tapes |
I was wandering if anyone out there had any of those King instrument training
tapes laying around that I could borrow.
Firewall Forward,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Imron, Corlar, DeVilbiss (painting time) |
Listers,
It's time to paint my RV-6A. I've spoken with several suppliers and the
local auto paint retailer. Here's what I've come up with:
- Paint Gun: DeVilbiss Finish Line HVLP (Model FLG 631-318) $155-
$175 retail. (DeVilbiss says it'll do as good a job as their $300 HVLP
gun, it just wouldn't last as long in a full time production environment)
- Paint: Imron system
-- 225S Aluminum Cleaner - Quantity TBD
-- 226S Corosion treatment (like Alodyne) - Quantity TBD
-- Corlar Epoxy Primer
--- Aluminum Parts:
824S primer (2 gal)
826S activator (1 gal)
3602S thinner (2 gal) also used as spray gun cleaner
for Imron and Corlar
--- Steel Parts:
825S primer (1qt)
plus 826S activator plus 3602S thinner from above
-- Imron (2 gallons white, 1 qt blue)
192S activator (1 gallon)
3575S or 8585S or 8595S reducer (depends on shop temp - start
with 1 qt of each)
Miscellaneous:
- Tack cloth
- Prep Sol or Kwik Clean degreaser
- 3939S Lacquer and Enamel cleaner
- #2 Zahn cup (Du Pont M-222)
- DeVilbiss E-Z Liner Gravity Cup Liners (speeds cleanup,
allows painting bottom of fuselage without interrupted
paint flow
- Forced Air respirator (borrowed Hobby Air)
- Sand Paper - 320 grit on fiberglass and gel coat before Corlar
- Masking Tape
- Templates for N- Numbers
- Plastic sheeting, furnace filters, fans for paint booth
- Flourescent lights - 5-10 more pairs to fully illuminate 1 car garage
- poster board to make curves/shapes for painting practice
Questions:
- How much 225 and 226 (alumiprep/alodyne) do I need to buy?
- Do my quantities of paint/activator/reducer look reasonable?
- Compressor size: I have a 5hp, 20 gal DeVilbiss (8.7cfm @ 40 psi,
7.1cfm @ 90 psi). The spray gun calls for 11.4cfm @ 23 psi. Should I
run two compressors in parallel, or just take frequent breaks and let my
compressor catch up?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
N47TD (registration came in the mail today)
******
Tim Lewis
N47TD RV-6AQ, paint prep
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
You're building a plane you've never flown??!! Now that's faith!! You will not
be disappointed. What a neat plane. Unfortunately, I'm no closer to flying
mine than you are, but I've snuck a couple of rides here and there.
Someone help him out.... Getting a ride is the most inspiring thing that can be
done for a project! I had hit the doldrums on mine until Jerry Springer took me
up. Now my garage has once again become a hand-made airplane parts factory!!
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Flaps/Ailerons finally done....
Selling everything that's not nailed down to afford fuselage
kit.....Taildragger!!
Peter Laurence wrote:
>
> Rvers
>
> I have not flown in an RV yet. Would anyone in the South or Central
> Florida area be willing to do a kindness and take me up?
>
> Of course, I'll pay for gas and lunch.
>
> --
> Peter Laurence
> RV6A Wings
> Miami Beach, Fl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
-----Original Message-----
From: Frontiernet.net <pmactagg(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Sunday, May 09, 1999 11:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: H2AD Fuel Lines
>
>Hey...Does anyone have any experience installing an H2AD? I have mine hung
>and I am starting to figure out the plumbing. I'm having a hard time with
>the fuel line routing. With the fuel pump out front I am not comfortable
>with the options I've thought of so far without worrying about vapor lock.
>I thought I would run them horizontally straight over to the baffling, then
>through a grommeted hole and then follow the outside of the baffling over
>the top of the valve covers with padded clamps and to the rear. I
>obviously need the "to" and "from" lines so with two of them they will
>probably route together to the rear of the engine. Anyone have a
>suggestion. Can I run them straight back over the cylinders and out the
>back of the baffling? Obvious thought is "TO HOT". If I run them
>straight down through the intake baffling and under, I will need to route
>them past the crossover exhaust. I hope someone out there has a completed
>RV-6 with this motor on it that has a proven method. I would also
>appreciate any other help, maybe a web page with pic's or diagram in the
>installation of this motor. I don't want to re-invent the wheel.... unless
>I have to.
>
I have installed the H2AD on my flying RV6A (56 hours) and my
installation is similar to the way you suggested. Yes I do have pictures and
info concerning my installation and will e-mail them to your e-mail address
if you want them.
Bob Bristol, RV6A C-GCTZ, Ontario, Canada bbristol(at)intranet.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frontiernet.net" <pmactagg(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
Thanks Robert, Great info that helps me a lot. I have 1000p flexline from
vans with stainless mesh and obviously plan on firesleeve. Is this similar
to what you've used or did you use rigid line. I would assume it would flop
all over unless really clamped in several places.
Pete MacTaggart Almost a 6A...
New Richmond, WI
----------
> From: Robert J. Hall <robjhall(at)Juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: H2AD Fuel Lines
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 7:19 PM
>
>
>
> posted by: "Frontiernet.net"
>
> >Hey...Does anyone have any experience installing an H2AD? I have mine
> hung
> >and I am starting to figure out the plumbing. I'm having a hard time
>
> FWIW Mine is one of two RV-6's flying out of our airport with H2AD
> engines, one with about 120 hours TTAF and one with about 65 hours.
> Neither has had a problem with vapor lock.
>
> We both ran our fuel lines essentially the same way. We came out of the
> left side of the firewall, about half way up. Then, up along the top
> left-hand tube of the engine mount and through the rear baffle left of
> center and on to the fuel pump. The output line from the fuel pump loops
> around the left side of the pump and then runs along side the input line
> through the rear baffle. From there it drops down to the carb.
>
> Each of our engines had two hoist attachment rings which provided good
> attachment points for a piece of 1/8" angle stock which in turn provided
> secure attachment for the input and output lines running to the carb.
>
> There are two more lines to be concerned with at the fuel pump, the line
> to the fuel pressure sender and the overflow line. Both drop vertically
> from the fuel pump through the baffle "ramp". The overflow line runs aft
> under the cylinders and exits the cowling next to the left gear leg. The
> line to the fuel pressure sender runs directly sideways under the baffle
> ramp and then along the outside of the baffling to the sender located on
> upper left hand side of the firewall.
>
> One caveat concerning the line to fuel pressure sender. The 90 deg carb
> fitting found in Van's catalog which is drilled and tapped for a pressure
> line interferes with the forward baffle. Instead, I used the 45 deg
> fitting to get a little more clearance. I still had to use a piece of
> rubber between the fitting and the baffle. Also, I had to get the
> fitting drilled and tapped for a fuel pressure sender line fitting.
>
> Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH :)
> Colorado Springs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two day two accidents |
In our EAA Chapter 75 we have a RV-6 ready to go. The Builder flew out to
Oregon for a check ride. Sounds expensive but after you have put 44 to
60,000 in a plane plus your life, what is another thousand if you then are
safe??
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven B. Janicki <sjanicki(at)us.oracle.com>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Two day two accidents
>
>In my humble opinion I would suggest that good additions to a preparation
>checklist would be:
>
>1. Get some RV time. Nothing beats flying an RV as a confidence builder.
>2. Take a 5 - 10 hour Aerobatics Safety Course. Know how to get out of
>trouble should you get into it. I took the Sean D. Tucker course with Ralph
>Riddel as my instructor. He and his son have flown competition Aerobatics
in
>an RV-4. I believe Ralph and his son were the first to explore inverted
>spins in an RV-4. Needless to say that was a great confidence builder for
me
>and as Ralph put it "The RV is an Honest Airplane"!
>3. Work with your local EAA Flight Counselor or other RVator that has been
>were you are going.
>
>All my personal opinions.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Gary Baker <gtbaker(at)bright.net>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:32 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Two day two accidents
>
>
>>
>> I believe that this would be a good time to remind everyone who is
getting
>> close to that first flight, or knows someone who is getting close, to
take
>> advantage of EAA's Flight Advisor program or get some time in an RV with
>an
>> experienced RV pilot, i.e. Mike Seager. Using the Flight Advisor
program's
>> recommendations, the first flight should only be about 30-45 minutes in
>> length. After landing, the champagne should flow, and the cowling comes
>off
>> to make sure nothing inside the cowling is flowing on the exterior of the
>> engine. The next few flights should begin to stretch the envelope and
>flight
>> time. A shorter flight at the beginning of the testing period will also
>> allow for fewer weather changes.
>>
>> I am also an experienced pilot, flying professionally (737's) and
>> instructing for the past 19 years. That, however, doesn't qualify me to
>make
>> the first flight in my RV-6, whenever that will be, until I get either
>some
>> time in another RV or in an equivalent flying airplane. Even though I
have
>> never done a test flight, I have flown over fifty models of aircraft and
>am
>> a Flight Advisor in the Cleveland, OH area. I am always looking for
>> recommendations in this area, so any other suggestions are extremely
>> welcomed.
>>
>> Gary Baker RV-6 (Working on wings)
>> N4GB (Reserved) Medina, OH
>>
>> >
>> >With the permission of the owner-builder-pilot, I submit the following
on
>> the 6A
>> >accident in New Mexico: Aircraft is 6A with new Vans 0320 and Sensinich
>> fixed
>> >pitch prop. Weather briefing called for light winds but pilot
encountered
>> gusty
>> >conditions at end of 2-hour first flight, made three passes at main
>runway
>> at
>> >Truth or Consequences Municipal. As there are numerous dirt runways at
>> this
>> >airport, he opted for one that was more into the wind. He reported a
>good
>> >touchdown on the mains followed by a noseup and subsequent second
landing
>> which
>> >tore off the nosegear. Ripped off clean at the engine mount attach
>point.
>> AC
>> >flipped over and canopy had to be broken out for pilot egress. I wasn't
>> there
>> >for the landing but we got the bird righted w/o further damage and
>> hangared.
>> >The dirt runway was kind of loose sand and had some very soft spots. I
>> don't
>> >think the sand liked those wheelpants. BTW, builder is experienced
pilot
>> with
>> >a good number of taildragger hours. This is his second homebuilt; other
>> was a
>> >Kitfox.
>> >
>> >Note to those of us getting ready for first flight: forego the
wheelpants
>> if you
>> >think you might have to land out. Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to get
>some
>> RV
>> >time before that first flight...
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amateur-Built Accidents |
>"According to NTSB, amateur-built airplanes fly less than two percent
>of the hours yet have ten percent of the accidents. Further,
>amateur-built airplanes involved in accidents are destroyed 54
>percent more often than manufactured aircraft and their pilots are
>killed 88 percent more often"...
>
>Assuming the facts are as stated, why do you suppose
>it is so??
>
I am suspicious of this pronouncement . . . at OSH two
years ago, acting administrator Valentine stood on the
stage at the "Meet the Administrator Meeting" Sunday
morning and spoke as follows:
"Amateur built accident rates are on a par with certified
aircraft. Keep up the good work and we'll stay out of your
hair."
I recall viewing this as both a compliment and a threat.
We could be proud of our accident record but be on notice
that there are folk within the FAA that would dearly love
to expand their "helpfulness" into the amateur built world.
Given that I personally witness that statement and given
its source, I would REALLY like to see the NTSB pronouncement
over somebody's signature . . . it wouldn't hurt to have
access to the source of thier data as well . . . were the
numbers truly as bad as the quoted paragraph suggest,
I'd think we'd be building our airplanes to a newly minted
FAR governing consumer grade aviation . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Shipping Cost |
Chris Santschi wrote:
>
>
> Any RV builders here in the midwest,could you give me an idea on how much
> shipping will be for the wings, getting ready to place an order.
>
> Chris Santschi #80881. Finishing rudder.
> Festus,MO.
>
Chris,
I paid $168 not quite a year ago to get the two boxes to Oklahoma City.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Shipping Cost |
My RV6 wings to Nashville, Tn terminal were $163.66 plus $37 for home
delivery from their Nashville terminal to my house almost a year ago. Arrive
undamaged via Roadway. You might want to check the archives about various
carriers as there have been some bad experiences about costs and lost boxes
or damaged goods.
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Shipping Cost
>
>Chris Santschi wrote:
>>
>>
>> Any RV builders here in the midwest,could you give me an idea on how much
>> shipping will be for the wings, getting ready to place an order.
>>
>> Chris Santschi #80881. Finishing rudder.
>> Festus,MO.
>>
>
>Chris,
>
>I paid $168 not quite a year ago to get the two boxes to Oklahoma City.
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Oil warning switch |
>
>To all,
>
>I found a 4 psi oil pressure switch from VDO that has 2 circuits. One
normally open for an low pressure warning light, and another normally
closed for your Hobbs meter (if your running one). It uses 1/8 NPT like
most other transducers.
>
>VDO part # 230 604
>
>I wanted to have a "Low Oil Pressure" Idiot light on the dash (as well as
an actual hour meter) just to get my attention in case my scan wasn't
working well. (I know, I know, I got to work on that :-) )
>
>Any auto parts store should be able to order one for you, or call PAW @
1-818-678-3000. You could get one from Jegs or Summit as well. The part
costs $20.00
>
We have a similar switch (not yet on the website catalog but
certainly available) for $7.00 each.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? |
Now, am I correct in assuming 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs?
Yes.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
Stephen; I have the AV-8 in my RV-8 and love it. However, others have had
a difficult time getting response from Rod, and an even more difficult
time getting him to send the actual unit. It's almost like he makes one a
month or something. I told Rod that he has an outstanding product at an
outstanding price, but that until he can deliver on time, and offer
customer service, I honestly cannot recommend his products to anyone
else.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Does anybody know what's up with Audio Flight Avionics? I can't seem
>to
>get a return phone call from them. I don't think I'm alone in that
>regard. Rod's voice mail is full.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve MacInnis: waiting on engine monitor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
>
>Stephen; I have the AV-8 in my RV-8 and love it. However, others have had
>a difficult time getting response from Rod, and an even more difficult
>time getting him to send the actual unit. It's almost like he makes one a
>month or something. I told Rod that he has an outstanding product at an
>outstanding price, but that until he can deliver on time, and offer
>customer service, I honestly cannot recommend his products to anyone
>else.
AFA is in a difficult spot. They have reached the point where they need to
grow because the demand for their product has grown but they do not have
the capital to grow. They literally wait until they have enough orders to
fill a "batch" and then they make them. If they made them one-by-one the
parts cost is too high but they haven't enough capital to build them ahead
of time and have them on the shelf ready for when someone orders them.
I hope to be able to report that this problem has been rectified in the
not-too-distant future. Stay tuned.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> writes:
>>
>>
>>Does anybody know what's up with Audio Flight Avionics? I can't seem
>>to
>>get a return phone call from them. I don't think I'm alone in that
>>regard. Rod's voice mail is full.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Steve MacInnis: waiting on engine monitor.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I would like to purchase a buildable lot on an airstrip and wondered if
anyone had experience is this type of real estate transaction? Besides
making sure the lot is indeed buildable and zoned correctly, water,
utilities, sewer... what other assurances can be had as far as the
longevity of the airstrip or it's continued use as a airstrip? Are these
purchases usually pretty iffy or can everything be legally pinned down?
Has anyone on the list bought in central Oregon-Bend/Sisters/Redmond areas?
kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | square drive screws |
As a carpenter I have fallen in love with square drive screws, they rarely
slip. Apparently Canada has had these for many years(they are way ahead of
the US building industry). I started looking for a square drive #8/32 1/2"
stainless screw since I use so many of them on my plane. Guess what? They
are unavailable as best as I could determine after querying a dozen mfgs.
and distributors. I can have a special batch made up, however, if I plunk
down $3000. My question is- is there a market at say $0.25 a screw, or say
$20 per hundred, or is this just me that wants these? Twelve or fifteen
thousand looks like an awfully big break even point. The cap socket drive
screws I found have a pretty small drive and strip out easily. I think
actually that the cad plated steel screws are rated as the strongest and
hardest. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? Plus |
Some more handy information, for those places the socket and torque wrench
just will not go.
The Length of whatever wrench in inches, times the weight applied
perpendicular to that wrench handle (in pounds) is equal to inch pounds. So
a six inch box end wrench with a fish scale pulling perpendicular to the
wrench handle six inches from the bolt, say four pounds worth,will give you a
cheap torque wrench value of 24 inch pounds.
Dennis
#80473 fuselage a happenin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amateur-Built Accidents |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> >"According to NTSB, amateur-built airplanes fly less than two percent
> >of the hours yet have ten percent of the accidents. Further,
> >amateur-built airplanes involved in accidents are destroyed 54
> >percent more often than manufactured aircraft and their pilots are
> >killed 88 percent more often"...
> >
> >Assuming the facts are as stated, why do you suppose
> >it is so??
> >
>
> I am suspicious of this pronouncement . . . at OSH two
> years ago, acting administrator Valentine stood on the
> stage at the "Meet the Administrator Meeting" Sunday
> morning and spoke as follows:
>
> "Amateur built accident rates are on a par with certified
> aircraft. Keep up the good work and we'll stay out of your
> hair."
>
> I recall viewing this as both a compliment and a threat.
> We could be proud of our accident record but be on notice
> that there are folk within the FAA that would dearly love
> to expand their "helpfulness" into the amateur built world.
>
> Given that I personally witness that statement and given
> its source, I would REALLY like to see the NTSB pronouncement
> over somebody's signature . . . it wouldn't hurt to have
> access to the source of thier data as well . . . were the
> numbers truly as bad as the quoted paragraph suggest,
> I'd think we'd be building our airplanes to a newly minted
> FAR governing consumer grade aviation . . .
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
I didn't see who wrote the original post so can't respond
directly. Each year that I do my flight instructor refresher
course we are shown the statistics that back up the statement
the administrator made about homebuilt being on par with
the rest of general aviation not including commercial operations.
While there are a few more accidents for homebuilts per hours flown
it can mostly be contributed to the type of flying homebuilts do
such as aerobatics and sadly showing off. The death rate for homebuilt
accidents is lower per accident but this is mostly because most
homebuilts are single or two place aircraft.
I also would like to know where the original quote came from.
I think anyone can get these reports from AOPA Air Safety Foundation.
I've posted this before but this is a good place to keep up quickly
with current accidents.
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/iirform.htm
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | panel planner software |
Can any of you who have purchased the panel planner software tell me if it
would work for a factory plane such as a 177 rg?
I would like to get rid of the plastic and make a nice aluminum panel
overlay. (painted) Thanks. please reply to lottmc(at)datasync.com Thanks.
Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
Without speculating on the cause of this accident or implying
anything about any fuel selector valve, I was installing mine only
yesterday. It's the Weatherhead sold by Vans. I couldn't help but
be uneasy about the high friction and feeble detent action. I spent
the afternoon disassembling it and putting in a different detent
washer. I now have a stronger detent but the same high friction.
This morning I phoned Vans and ordered the Andair selector.
Those of you flying, have I wasted the $125 difference in price?
Peter
RV6 Engine controls, plumbing etc
> The airport manager told a friend of mine the fuel selector valve
> was at fault. The pilot walked away, but the plane was a
complete loss.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hunter" <ozzy(at)better.net.au> |
Listeners,
Saw Delcom's advert in the April Kit Planes and checked their site at
www.delc.com
I am particularly interested in their audio panel. Have any listeners any
experience with their products?
Many Thanks
Brian Hunter--RV-6 Finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
Before you start, make use you can get a 337 field approval for a new
instrument panel from your FISDO. Some are very picky.
Cy Galley - Editor BC Contact!
visit our site at www.bellanca-championclub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lott, Michael <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 2:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: panel planner software
>
>Can any of you who have purchased the panel planner software tell me if it
>would work for a factory plane such as a 177 rg?
>I would like to get rid of the plastic and make a nice aluminum panel
>overlay. (painted) Thanks. please reply to lottmc(at)datasync.com Thanks.
>Michael.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Kevin; I lived in Bend for 12 years, contact me directly about that area
as well as the Willamette Valley area which has some beautiful airparks.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> I would like to purchase a buildable lot on an airstrip and
>wondered if
>anyone had experience is this type of real estate transaction?
>Besides
>making sure the lot is indeed buildable and zoned correctly, water,
>utilities, sewer... what other assurances can be had as far as the
>longevity of the airstrip or it's continued use as a airstrip? Are
>these
>purchases usually pretty iffy or can everything be legally pinned
>down?
>Has anyone on the list bought in central Oregon-Bend/Sisters/Redmond
>areas?
> kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I also was disappointed in the detent action and high friction of the valve
that came with my kit. The high friction does go away when the valve is
"lubricated" with gas but the ambiguous detent remains (in three flying RVs
I've checked). I ordered the Andair valve from Avery. It is mounted on a
5-sided pedestal that mounts to the floor stiffener rails. The bends in the
pedestal are made such that one can get to all the spar mounting bolts
without interference from the pedestal.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au <pbennett(at)zip.com.au>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 4:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 CRASH
>
>
>Without speculating on the cause of this accident or implying
>anything about any fuel selector valve, I was installing mine only
>yesterday. It's the Weatherhead sold by Vans. I couldn't help but
>be uneasy about the high friction and feeble detent action. I spent
>the afternoon disassembling it and putting in a different detent
>washer. I now have a stronger detent but the same high friction.
>This morning I phoned Vans and ordered the Andair selector.
>Those of you flying, have I wasted the $125 difference in price?
>
>Peter
>RV6 Engine controls, plumbing etc
>
>> The airport manager told a friend of mine the fuel selector valve
>> was at fault. The pilot walked away, but the plane was a
>complete loss.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | I Need a ride to Waco - 5Jun |
Anyone with an empty seat planning to go to Waco for the RV fly-in
willing to have it filled by me...please let me know.
Willing to drive to any of the North TX airports, in order of increasing
distance: HQZ, ADS, TKI, GPM, T67...I live close to White Rock Lake
in Dallas. 972.729.5206(w) 214.341.7911(h).
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Emp N822AR reserved...spent two days @ Orndorffs learning - yahoo
Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | COPANDENGR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wing Shipping Cost |
The cost to ship my wings to the Roadway terminal at Memphis TN was $157.00
in 1996.
J.R. Coleman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Hey guys,
While this is obviously not directly RV related, please dont take this
discussion off-list. I have a slightly more than passing interest in this.
I gotta retire someday!
Mike Wills
RV-4 finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>Kevin; I lived in Bend for 12 years, contact me directly about that area
>as well as the Willamette Valley area which has some beautiful airparks.
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>>
>> I would like to purchase a buildable lot on an airstrip and
>>wondered if
>>anyone had experience is this type of real estate transaction?
>>Besides
>>making sure the lot is indeed buildable and zoned correctly, water,
>>utilities, sewer... what other assurances can be had as far as the
>>longevity of the airstrip or it's continued use as a airstrip? Are
>>these
>>purchases usually pretty iffy or can everything be legally pinned
>>down?
>>Has anyone on the list bought in central Oregon-Bend/Sisters/Redmond
>>areas?
>> kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
40-41,43-44,46-49,51-52,54-55,57-58,60-63,65-66,68-69,71-72,
74-77,79,81-82,84-85,87-88,90-91,93-94,96-97,99-100,102-103,
105-106,108-111,113-114,116-117,119-120,122-123,125-126,128-129,
131-132,134-135,137-138,140-141,143-146,148-149,151-152,154-155,157-169
>wondered if anyone had experience is this type of real estate
transaction?
can everything be legally pinned down?
> kevin
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin,
Maybe this will help some.
Larry Mac Donald
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spencerport Airpark
Hangar Construction Contract
This agreement defines the terms and conditions under which I,
_________________________________, will have an Aircraft Hangar built for
my
use on the property known as Spencerport Airpark, which is owned and
operated
by William Hollink. The Hangar will be of traditional pole barn
construction with
metal used on the sides and roof. The Hangar will have between 1280 and
1512
square feet of floor space and will have an entrance that will be roughly
40 feet
wide by 10 feet high. It will be erected on a site at Spencerport Airpark
being
agreed upon by both William Hollink and myself. William Hollink will
hold title to
the Hangar, but I will have first chance at renting the Hangar for as
long as I
choose to do so. The monies spent by myself in building the Hangar will
be
considered as an interest-free loan to William Hollink under the
following terms
and conditions :
1) I will rent this Hangar from William Hollink at a rate
of $_____________
per month. The rent will be paid as follows. I will pay
William Hollink 50%
of the rental rate in cash (check) on a regular basis.
The remaining 50% of
the rental rate will be deducted from the money that was
spent in building
the Hangar, until that loan amount has been repaid.
2) If William Hollink sells the Airport or ceases to
operate Spencerport Airpark
as an Airport, he will within 30 days pay me in cash an
amount equal to the
remaining unpaid balance of the loan. If he takes on a
partnership in the
ownership or operation of Spencerport Airpark he will
still rent the Hanger to
me as if he was sole owner.
3) The rental rate of the Hangar will remain fixed at
$_______________per
month for the first five years (60 months) of my renting
the Hangar. After that
the rent may be raised an amount proportional to that
being paid by the
owners of the aircraft renting Hanger space (without
Hangar doors) in the
metal nested tee Hangar on the north side of Spencerport
Airpark which are
currently renting @ $___________per month. In plain
English I mean that if
their rates go up 10% then my rate may also go up a
maximum of 10% after
five years. This is to protect me from excessive rental
rates.
4) In consideration for my not charging any interest for
the Hangar loan, I may
continue renting the Hangar at my option at the rate
outlined in item three
above once the loan has been paid off.
5) Until the balance of the loan has been repaid to me, I
may sublet the Hangar
if I so choose. Until the balance of the loan has been
repaid to me, if I decide
that I do not want to rent the Hangar or decide not to
sublet it, then
William Hollink may rent it at whatever rate he can get.
If William Hollink
rents out the Hangar then he will continue to repay the
Hangar loan at the
rate of $______________per month or 50% of the Hangar
rental, which ever
is the greater of the two. After the loan has been
repaid in full William Hollink
may rent the Hangar to others if I decide that I do not
want to rent it.
6) The final cost of the Hangar will not exceed
$____________________dollars.
I will show William Hollink receipts for all monies spent
on the Hangar
project to substantiate the loan amount.
7) Improvements ( i.e., a Hangar door ) that I make to the
Hangar at my expense
will not affect my rental rate, and will remain my
Personal property until such
time that I decide to give up the Hangar, at which time
these improvements
will automatically become the property of William
Hollink.
The following signatures indicate agreement with the terms and conditions
described above :
witness___________________________________________date___________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
>
>>
>>Stephen; I have the AV-8 in my RV-8 and love it. However, others have had
>>a difficult time getting response from Rod, and an even more difficult
>>time getting him to send the actual unit. It's almost like he makes one a
>>month or something. I told Rod that he has an outstanding product at an
>>outstanding price, but that until he can deliver on time, and offer
>>customer service, I honestly cannot recommend his products to anyone
>>else.
>
>AFA is in a difficult spot. They have reached the point where they need to
>grow because the demand for their product has grown but they do not have
>the capital to grow. They literally wait until they have enough orders to
>fill a "batch" and then they make them. If they made them one-by-one the
>parts cost is too high but they haven't enough capital to build them ahead
>of time and have them on the shelf ready for when someone orders them.
>
>I hope to be able to report that this problem has been rectified in the
>not-too-distant future. Stay tuned.
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
Brian,
In a previous message you mentioned that AFA could be "slow as molassis".
I'm afraid that I'd have to say slower. I ordered my AV-8 at the
Copperstate fly-in last October and still dont have it. Ive contacted Rod
on several occasions over the past 6 months to find out status of my order.
On at least one occasion he has replied that he has pushed delivery of my
unit back to allow delivery to customers who are closer to flying. While I
have no problem with deferring for those who are more in need of product
than I am, I think he should have informed me of this before he did it. I
also feel that 6 months should be far more than sufficient to get a product
out the door no matter what the demand or need is. This is especially true
considering that I paid in full when I ordered.
I'm afraid that I have to agree with Von. Ive hyped this unit on the list
and off on a number of occasions but feel I can no longer do so until AFA
improves their business practices.
Mike Wills
RV-4 hoping to see my AV-8 soon; Rod has promised delivery within 2 weeks
willsm(at)manta.spawar,navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: square drive screws |
Kevin:
You can get 8-32 square drive, stainless screws, in either round head
or countersunk head, for CDN$ 6.59 per 100 (about US$ 4.50), at
Pacific Fasteners Ltd.
3934 East 1st Avenue
Burnaby, BC
Canada
V5C 5S3
604/294-9411
604/294-4730 fax
I'm pretty sure these will be 80/82-degree countersinks, not 100-degree.
If Pacific Fasteners isn't willing to deal by mail (though I expect
they will be), let me know and I can pick some up for you next time
I'm there.
Tedd McHenry tedd(at)compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/
Surrey, BC, Canada
RV-6 tail in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: square drive screws |
I originally sent this directly to Kevin, but then I thought others
might be interested.
Tedd
> Kevin:
>
> You can get 8-32 square drive, stainless screws, in either round head
> or countersunk head, for CDN$ 6.59 per 100 (about US$ 4.50), at
>
> Pacific Fasteners Ltd.
> 3934 East 1st Avenue
> Burnaby, BC
> Canada
> V5C 5S3
> 604/294-9411
> 604/294-4730 fax
>
> I'm pretty sure these will be 80/82-degree countersinks, not 100-degree.
Tedd McHenry tedd(at)compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/
Surrey, BC, Canada
RV-6 tail in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: In Lbs to Ft Lbs? Plus |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)Juno.com> |
That is how I torque my propeller. I have a home made 3/4" open end
wrench that is 1.25 feet long and use a 50lb spring scale on the end. On
the aerobatic props a crowsfoot will not work
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
>
>Some more handy information, for those places the socket and torque
>wrench
>just will not go.
>The Length of whatever wrench in inches, times the weight applied
>perpendicular to that wrench handle (in pounds) is equal to inch
>pounds. So
>a six inch box end wrench with a fish scale pulling perpendicular to
>the
>wrench handle six inches from the bolt, say four pounds worth,will
>give you a
>cheap torque wrench value of 24 inch pounds.
>
>Dennis
>#80473 fuselage a happenin'
>
>
>
---
>
---
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: 11 May 1999 06:58
Subject: RV-List: fuel valve troublems
My contribution on the subject of the fuel valve goes back to the day in
1992 when the boxes of goodies arrived and a good, very experienced, friend
of mine helped me unpack and check the contents. When he saw the fuel valve
he picked it up and declared that for my own good he had to modify the
thing. He was so insistent that I overcame my concern about fixing things
that were not bust and let him take it away. When he brought it back I
demanded a better explanation for his action and he very patiently explained
how the lubricating grease would finally depart and allow the conical brass
faces to bind together, possibly so tightly that it would not be able to be
moved. What he had done was to fit a carefully ground washer beneath the
rotating cone to prevent it from dropping down to the point of jamming. (I
hope.) He had spent a considerable time getting it just right and the
operating seal was good.
The arrangement has worked for 250 hours so far and the seal on the valve is
still good with no sign of jamming. That these valves can sieze I have no
doubt for another friend of mine with a Longeze (valve on the floor) was
unable to switch tanks in flight and only just made it back to the airport.
He had to disassemble the valve to get it to turn. What I have now is
working just fine but I am always aware of a possible stuck valve so perhaps
a better device is worth the investment.
Noel Drew
ZU-APF RV6
Durban
South Africa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: square drive screws |
I suspect they are not as strong as phillips & similar. The phillips types hole
leaves more metal doesn't it?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Amateur-Built Accident Data |
In my course of business I have done a lot of research on the subject of
Amateur-built accidents verses Production aircraft accidents. My findings
In 1997 there were about 185,000 single engine registered in the United
States of which about 150,000 were active. Approximately 125,000 of these
aircraft are single-engine piston aircraft. If we estimate that 15% of these
aircraft are registered Experimental, Amateur-Built then there are 18,750
active Experimental, Amateur-Built aircraft. In 1997 there were a total of
162 accidents (69 fatal) involving Experimental, Amateur-Built aircraft.
This produces an accident ratio per aircraft of .864% and a fatality ratio
per aircraft of .368%In 1997 there were 586 (non-commercial use) accidents
(143 fatalities) involving Cessna single engine aircraft. Estimated fleet of
active single engine Cessna's is 60,000 (78,000 registered). This yields an
accident rate of .977% and a fatal rate of .238%.You will note that I used
a rate per aircraft instead of a rate based on hours as I feel that this is a
more accurate accounting of the fleet activity. Both the FAA GA Hour
estimates and the FAA Active Aircraft estimates are pure (somewhat educated)
guesses however, all things being equal the accident/fatality rates are
statistically insignificant. Gary CordeRV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: square drive screws |
I seriously doubt that the type of drive hole has anything to do with the
strength of the screw. You are more likely to strip the threads as that is
the weak point of most screws. In that respect, it would be easier to strip
as you can apply more torque with the square drive.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: square drive screws
>
>I suspect they are not as strong as phillips & similar. The phillips types
hole leaves more metal doesn't it?
>
>hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A project for sale |
RV6A project for sale. On gear with engine 0 since major 0360 A1A and
prop 0 since overhaul, Have exhaust system and instruments $36,000 for
all. Contact Jerry Doyal 318-221-3503 or E-mail jerrydd(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Shipping Cost |
Thanks to everyone for the response, even Van says cost should be about $145
to Festus. Wings to be ordered tomorrow.
Chris S. 80881. Finishing rudder.
Festus,MO.
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
Listers,
Last night I unpacked the carb that came new from Van's. The throttle
butterfly valve assembly has a light spring on the end of the shaft that
looks as though it would set the throttle wide open if the cable broke.
However, there seems to be more than enough friction in the throttle lever
assembly to overcome the spring. In fact there's so much friction that
operation, by hand, is somewhat jerky.
Is this normal? I would expect it to operate smoothly by hand with the
spring return to fully open.
There's a castellated nut on the lever end of the shaft that has a cotter
pin installed - should I loosen this? I just downloaded a service manual
from Precision Airmotive's web site & it says that nut should be torqued to
20-60 in/lbs. It doesn't talk about smoothness of operation or the return
spring.
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV6AQB, O-360 installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
Get an Andair valve, I wouldn't put that thing they ship with the kits on a
moped. $147.00 over the average 3 years to build a project comes out to just
about $4.00/mo. Skip cofee in the morning one day a week, and you will have
saved the money for your Andair valve.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe3(at)home.com
www.tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
| From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
Pete,
Like you, I got my fuel lines from Van's. One thing about the
firesleeve: on the long line that runs from the fuel pump to the carb,
plan on a length of firesleeve about 4"-6" longer than the fuel line
itself. I found out the hard way that it takes more firesleeve to go
around the outside of the curves.
Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH :)
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
| From: | "Robert J. Hall" <robjhall(at)Juno.com> |
It is possible to modify the fuel selector valve mounting to provided
positive mechanical stops independent of the valve itself. Several years
ago, the RVator published a drawing of one builder's solution. I can't
recall the exact issue number (newsletter files are out at the hangar)
but it was in 1997 or 1996. Anyway, I shamelessly copied his idea and it
works very well. You can change tanks without looking and without having
to feel for detents.
It uses AN3 bolts protruding through the mounting face for stoppers. A
spring-loaded bolt needs to be pushed down to get the selector handle to
"OFF". The selector valve has to be mounted lower than the plans show to
keep the selector handle close to the face of the mount.
It doesn't solve the problem of the valve binding up but it does maintain
positive stops even if/when the valve detents become weaker. I think it
is worth the trouble to make the modifications and I would do it again.
Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH :)
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Maybe someone can help me here...
I used a #6 platenut jig to drill holes for #6 platenuts to hold on the
access
covers in the tail cone of my RV6A. After ordering some #6 platenuts and
screws from Van's, I find that the hole spacing for the rivits are wider
than those drilled with the aid of the platenut jig. I've tried 1000-6s and
the countersunk equivilents and find both have the hole spacing the same
as those for a -8 platenut.
Does anyone know of a different part number, or is this jig obsolete??
If anyone has any of the smaller type, I'll be glad to buy them from you. I
need at least
8pcs.
They are for 6/32 screws.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuselage
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
Could it be damaged as in have a bent throttle shaft?
I can check mine this weekend - I think I did already and it seemed function
just fine.
hal
> However, there seems to be more than enough friction in the throttle lever
> assembly to overcome the spring. In fact there's so much friction that
> operation, by hand, is somewhat jerky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
he very patiently explained
> how the lubricating grease would finally depart and allow the conical
brass
> faces to bind together, possibly so tightly that it would not be able to
be
> moved.
The valve that came with my fuse kit about 3 years ago has some sort of
non-metallic rotating part inside, and the detents are very pronounced.
Apparently, there have been design changes in these valves over time. If
there are brass to brass valves out there, I would replace them, as one
should never have like metals sliding against one another. One surface
always should be significantly harder than the other to avoid galling. The
weakness I do see (in the valve I have) is the flat in the shaft which
engages the handle - it is too small. I will investigate some way to
improve this.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | For Australian Builders |
If anyone is interested in sharing shipping costs to Australia or selling
their project please contact Bill on ginnwj(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frontiernet.net" <pmactagg(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Fuel Lines |
Thanks bob, I'll take note of the firesleeve. That stuff is expensive!
Pete...
New Richmond, WI
----------
> From: Robert J. Hall <robjhall(at)Juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: H2AD Fuel Lines
> Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 4:30 PM
>
>
> Pete,
>
> Like you, I got my fuel lines from Van's. One thing about the
> firesleeve: on the long line that runs from the fuel pump to the carb,
> plan on a length of firesleeve about 4"-6" longer than the fuel line
> itself. I found out the hard way that it takes more firesleeve to go
> around the outside of the curves.
>
> Bob Hall, RV-6 N976RH :)
> Colorado Springs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Does anyone have a .dwg or .dxf drawing file, or lacking that a dimensional
drawing of the required instrument knockout for the G-meter that Vans has
listed in the accessory catalog? I know its a 2.25" instrument but it
appears to require a notch in the lower left corner for knob clearance. I
used the dimensions shown in the Aircraft Spruce catalog for all other
instruments but they dont show this particular size/style in the catalog.
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 panel stuff and finish kit
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
Yes it will. It has templates for just about any aircraft. If your
particular aircraft is not in there, just call Gordon (the guy who wrote it)
and he will make one for you.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Lott, Michael <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 6:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: panel planner software
>
>Can any of you who have purchased the panel planner software tell me if it
>would work for a factory plane such as a 177 rg?
>I would like to get rid of the plastic and make a nice aluminum panel
>overlay. (painted) Thanks. please reply to lottmc(at)datasync.com Thanks.
>Michael.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: #6 Nutplates |
Ed,
Just an idea. If you can't match up the nutplates and holes, use the one
armed nutplates then just put a rivet in the unused hole and set it.
You'll have three rivets instead of 2 and one will just be filling the hole
but who will ever know besides you and who you show??
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved) Youngstown, OH
"The original and only RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Maybe someone can help me here...
>
> I used a #6 platenut jig to drill holes for #6 platenuts to hold on the
>access
> covers in the tail cone of my RV6A. After ordering some #6 platenuts and
> screws from Van's, I find that the hole spacing for the rivits are wider
> than those drilled with the aid of the platenut jig. I've tried 1000-6s and
> the countersunk equivilents and find both have the hole spacing the same
> as those for a -8 platenut.
> Does anyone know of a different part number, or is this jig obsolete??
> If anyone has any of the smaller type, I'll be glad to buy them from you. I
>need at least
> 8pcs.
> They are for 6/32 screws.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Fuselage
> emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott \"Sky\" Smith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com> |
Just a note to those that think all coverage is the same. Even the same
companies offer different policies. Ask for FAR restrictions, extra
coverages and if there are any exclusions that are targeted at experiment
aircraft, notably comments about exclusions for defects in materials,
workmanship, design or plans.
Additonally many companys have an exclsion for any passenger coverage until
the aircraft has a minimun number of hours and the FAA has issued its
airworthiness certificate. (That means no coverage for the test pilot when
they are not the owner. Owners are not covered anyway in a standard policy)
Always compare like policies and coverage (and exclusions) not only premium.
Scott "Sky" Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
Not in my opinion. I have seen both the Andair selector valve and the Andair
gascolator. They are very nicely machined and finished. They certainly look
like alot of effort was expended in their design and manufacture. My plane will
have these pieces on it when the time comes.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Wing crap....
> This morning I phoned Vans and ordered the Andair selector.
> Those of you flying, have I wasted the $125 difference in price?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
| Subject: | Shipping Companies |
While on the subject of shipping companies, can anyone out there
recommend a shipper to haul my O-320 from Miami, Fl to Portland, OR? I
assume the whole mess with crate will weigh appx. 300#(???).
Any help would be appreciated.
Jon Elford
RV6# 25201
Banks, OR
Wing crap....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | HS 606 (outboard) tip rib question |
i have pondered and read and re-read, help please. the plans say to
trim the outer 606 in order to get fiberglass to fit.
the is nothing that i see in the instructions, and yes i am learning
that everything may not be spelled out. when laying skins over hs
skeleton and aligning the skin to rib and then matchin the fiberglass.
(just to see what the plans are referrin to) see the match, all is well
and i see no need for any removal of the 606. perhaps the newer skins
now are adapted an extension of about 12/32 for fiberglass attaachment.
the plans "detail B" on pp 3 is the exact view i am speaking of. would
hate to skin and find out later i should have... confused???? thanx to
all for the help u all have provided. it is most appreciated. i look
back now and notice my stupid questions so forgive me but i have been
reading and studying belive it or not. thanx, bob in arkansas about to
skin HS :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: For Australian Builders |
Hi Bill,
I wish you had asked this question 2 weeks ago, my kit left van's 5 days ago.
cheers
Todd
>
>If anyone is interested in sharing shipping costs to Australia or selling
>their project please contact Bill on ginnwj(at)hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron, Corlar, DeVilbiss (painting time) |
Tim Lewis wrote:
> It's time to paint my RV-6A.
> Questions:
> - How much 225 and 226 (alumiprep/alodyne) do I need to buy?
My Henkel Surface Technologies Alumiprep 33 says 1 gal will do 1600
sqft, (mix 1 part to 6 parts water).
The Alodine 1001 (MIL-C-5541, Class 3, Form 1, Methods A, C) says 1
gal will do 1000 sqft, (mix 1 part to 1 part water).
I should have bought the gold 1201 vs the clear 1001, so I could see
when the alodine had done its thing!
I have calculated the following surface areas for the RV-6A,
Empennage, (vert/horz stabs, rudder, elevators), 95 sqft
Wings, ailerons, flaps, 185 sqft
Fuselage, cowl, 160 sqft
TOTAL 440 sqft (need to add wheel and strut fairings)
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA, RV-6A, riveting the fuselage skins!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
| From: | "Stephen C. MacInnis" <stevemac1(at)Juno.com> |
Unfortunately, you guys have not made me feel better about doing business
with Audio Flight. I ordered (and paid for) my AV10 a few weeks before
SNF. Rod put me off till after he returned from SNF. Now I can't even
get a return phone call!!! Small owner financed companies nearly always
have the troubles you described. The difference from one to another is
how they correct the problem and how they handle their customers. Rod's
customer relation techniques do not leave you with a warm fuzzy feeling
given the mail order, up front payment and no delivery. If anyone
manages to talk to this guy, please tell him to call me.
Thanks,
Steve MacInnis: waiting on AV10
writes:
>
>
>>
>>>
>>>Stephen; I have the AV-8 in my RV-8 and love it. However, others
>have had
>>>a difficult time getting response from Rod, and an even more
>difficult
>>>time getting him to send the actual unit. It's almost like he makes
>one a
>>>month or something. I told Rod that he has an outstanding product at
>an
>>>outstanding price, but that until he can deliver on time, and offer
>>>customer service, I honestly cannot recommend his products to anyone
>>>else.
>>
>>AFA is in a difficult spot. They have reached the point where they
>need to
>>grow because the demand for their product has grown but they do not
>have
>>the capital to grow. They literally wait until they have enough
>orders to
>>fill a "batch" and then they make them. If they made them one-by-one
>the
>>parts cost is too high but they haven't enough capital to build them
>ahead
>>of time and have them on the shelf ready for when someone orders
>them.
>>
>>I hope to be able to report that this problem has been rectified in
>the
>>not-too-distant future. Stay tuned.
>>
>>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite
>1
>>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA
>95682
>>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
>Brian,
>
> In a previous message you mentioned that AFA could be "slow as
>molassis".
>I'm afraid that I'd have to say slower. I ordered my AV-8 at the
>Copperstate fly-in last October and still dont have it. Ive contacted
>Rod
>on several occasions over the past 6 months to find out status of my
>order.
>On at least one occasion he has replied that he has pushed delivery of
>my
>unit back to allow delivery to customers who are closer to flying.
>While I
>have no problem with deferring for those who are more in need of
>product
>than I am, I think he should have informed me of this before he did
>it. I
>also feel that 6 months should be far more than sufficient to get a
>product
>out the door no matter what the demand or need is. This is especially
>true
>considering that I paid in full when I ordered.
> I'm afraid that I have to agree with Von. Ive hyped this unit on the
>list
>and off on a number of occasions but feel I can no longer do so until
>AFA
>improves their business practices.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 hoping to see my AV-8 soon; Rod has promised delivery within 2
>weeks
>willsm(at)manta.spawar,navy.mil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>Does anyone have a .dwg or .dxf drawing file, or lacking that a dimensional
>drawing of the required instrument knockout for the G-meter that Vans has
>listed in the accessory catalog?
The shaft of the reset knob comes out just outside the diameter of the
faceplate in the lower left corner where the screw would go. If you drill a
1/8" hole at that corner, with the outer edge of the hole just touching the
cutout for the faceplate, then file the hole into a notch, that'll do it.
The shaft comes out inside of where the screw would go, so if you drill a
hole for the screw then notch to that (like I did) it'll work but be notched
out further than you need.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire harness and busses |
>
>Re. the military aircraft "design philosophy" and the use of fuses, the
>Douglas A-4 Skyhawk, designed by the master, Ed Heineman, was designed to be
>as compact (carrier based) and simple (eg. small enough to have a stiff
wing,
>no wing fold mechanism) as was possible. It made extensive use
>of.......FUSES.
>Doug Seward
>-4 , wings, Seattle area
>
Interesting! I've heard similar things about other
airplanes. Fuses have been mistakenly regarded as
retro-devices because common knowledge is that they
were once used on old airplanes and modern ones don't
use them.
The facts supported by physics and considered engineering
decisions tell us that fuses are a low cost, low parts
count, light-weight and equally reliable way to keep
airplanes from catching fire due to electrical faults.
From time to time, someone takes advantage of these
facts in the production of a modern, superior product.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splice Trick |
om>
>
>Paul -
>
>Both NASA and the Military use soldered connectors.
>
>J.H.
>
True . . . and the argument isn't whether solder is
better or worse than crimped. The thing that's missing
from the article is an acknowledgment of the need
for insulation support behind EITHER soldered OR
crimped joints. The article also fails to direct
the reader to low cost tools that do adequate tasks
on terminating wires. The article also speaks of
terminal strips . . . devices I've never needed
in the design of an electrical system.
The value of the article needs to be deduced in
the answer to the following question:
"Suppose someone who knows nothing about wiring
reads this article . . . what information
does it contain that will help anyone do a good
job?"
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | All electric panels; a list-server thread |
There was a list-server thread I participated in with a group
of Grumman drivers a few weeks ago. I was going to delete the
thread but after reviewing it, I decided to post it on our
website. Interested parties may click on:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/allelect.html
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Without speculating on the cause of this accident or implying
>anything about any fuel selector valve, I was installing mine only
>yesterday. It's the Weatherhead sold by Vans. I couldn't help but
>be uneasy about the high friction and feeble detent action. I spent
>the afternoon disassembling it and putting in a different detent
>washer. I now have a stronger detent but the same high friction.
>This morning I phoned Vans and ordered the Andair selector.
>Those of you flying, have I wasted the $125 difference in price?
>
Fuel in the valve does a lot to make it turn more easily.
See my other post for comment on the detent.
As for the money you spent... your opinion is the only one that realy
matters. If you felt that you needed a different valve, then you
probably did the right thing.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS skeleton twist/rib alignment |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
I'm not sure if you got any other reply's to your questions I'll try to
help.
-
>2 quick questions: 1. in getting the skeleton aligned with skins as
>templates i have to twist the front spar and ribs a little to get holes
>to align (to meet lines drawn). i used a fine magic marker-not the
>wide
>type-iam sure if i used the wide type i would be ok 2. what variance
>would be alowed for drilling hole into spar and ribs?? in other words,
>how far from edges of ribs and front spar is acceptable?? 2 times the
>diam of hole (center) to edge?? i still must twist some to get the
>spar
>exactly square- am i ok?? bob in arkansas
>
>
Yes.
Minimum edge distance is 2d from the center of the hole.
Things should line up well enough that you wouldn't need to push the edge
distance to the minimum anywhere.
Deviating slightly from exactly hitting the center line is more than
exceptable, and is probably better than trying to force the frame into a
position that it doesn't want to be in. As long as you can be sure that
you will be somewhat close to your lines you will probably be fine.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>Last night I unpacked the carb that came new from Van's. The throttle
>butterfly valve assembly has a light spring on the end of the shaft
>that
>looks as though it would set the throttle wide open if the cable
>broke.
>However, there seems to be more than enough friction in the throttle
>lever
>assembly to overcome the spring. In fact there's so much friction
>that
>operation, by hand, is somewhat jerky.
>
>Is this normal? I would expect it to operate smoothly by hand with
>the
>spring return to fully open.
>
>There's a castellated nut on the lever end of the shaft that has a
>cotter
>pin installed - should I loosen this? I just downloaded a service
>manual
>from Precision Airmotive's web site & it says that nut should be
>torqued to
>20-60 in/lbs. It doesn't talk about smoothness of operation or the
>return
>spring.
>
>Regards,
>
>Chris Good,
>West Bend, WI
>RV6AQB, O-360 installation
>
A lot of the friction is likely from the accelerator pump plunger which
is dry and not lubricated by fuel.
Loosening the castellated nut will not reduce the friction. It only
holds on the throttle actuator arm which can be repositioned for
different engine installations.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
47-48,52-60
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>
>The valve that came with my fuse kit about 3 years ago has some sort
>of
>non-metallic rotating part inside, and the detents are very
>pronounced.
>Apparently, there have been design changes in these valves over time.
-
Yes, a different valve is now supplied (since some time in the early
90's) from the one originaly used.
-
>If
>there are brass to brass valves out there, I would replace them, as
>one
>should never have like metals sliding against one another.
-
Then tell the plumbing industry, Piper, Cessna, Mooney, etc.
Ball valves and the cone body style (like the one currently being
discussed) have been used for Eon's.
Now don't get the wrong Idea. I have nothing against new technology
making its way into aviation (home building in particular), but I want to
head off this idea that many are preaching that implies you have to be
short on common sense to use the kit supplied valve in your RV.
The valve currently supplied is not likely to have any binding problem.
The valve that used to be supplied can if it is not maintained.
As Mark F. already mentioned "A fuel valve doesn't work fine on one
flight and then totally freeze up on the next.
These airplanes do require some maintenance!
This may include disassembling the fuel valve occasionally and lubing it
with some fuel lube. This happens to be one of the things the stuff was
invented for, hence the name.
As for the detent issue... The recommended locations for the fuel valves
in the different RV models locates them totally visible.
There is no reason to make a tank selection change without visually
verifying the fuel selector position.
While doing the FAA required labeling of the fuel valve it is a simple
matter to add some indicator lines with pinstripe tape that will make it
very obvious when the selector handle is pointed at the correct position.
I myself never trust just the feel of a detent to know that the valve is
positioned correctly.
Other valves are available (at a significant cost, in my opinion) and a
builder has to decide for them self if it is something that the need.
The valve currently supplied in the kit is a compromise of function and
cost. It works just fine and it helps keep the kit cost down (which is
one of the reasons you all by the kits, right?).
BTW... The RV-6A that I built now has close to 750 hrs on it with the
orig valve (the blue RV-6A prototype has over 2300 hrs), and no problem
has ever been encountered other than it starting to get slightly tighter
to move at which time it got disassembled and lubed with "fuel lube".
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
In a message dated 5/11/99 17:02:45, 101560.1256(at)compuserve.com writes:
Listers,
Last night I unpacked the carb that came new from Van's. The throttle
butterfly valve assembly has a light spring on the end of the shaft that
looks as though it would set the throttle wide open if the cable broke.
However, there seems to be more than enough friction in the throttle lever
assembly to overcome the spring. In fact there's so much friction that
operation, by hand, is somewhat jerky.
Is this normal? I would expect it to operate smoothly by hand with the
spring return to fully open.
There's a castellated nut on the lever end of the shaft that has a cotter
pin installed - should I loosen this? I just downloaded a service manual
from Precision Airmotive's web site & it says that nut should be torqued to
20-60 in/lbs. It doesn't talk about smoothness of operation or the return
spring.
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV6AQB, O-360 installation
>>
Sounds like the way mine was. I'd suggest torquing the nut as mine came
loose enough to almost slip despite the cotter pin! This was after two or
three hundred hours.
Please share the download site for the manual. I can't find it
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 606 (outboard) tip rib question |
Bob,
No need to apologize. Right now your learning curve is steep in a lot of areas;
reading plans, interpreting manual, setting rivets, edge distances, etc. It
will flatten out quickly as you experience different things. This is why we
start with the tail. There are lots of different construction techniques and
procedures to learn about here. Your questions are the reason Matt has
developed and maintained this list - to ask those who have been there. And we
have all been there at one time or another.
As for your current puzzler - as long as you have enough skin overhang to mount
the fiberglass tip after it's all together (and it sounds to me like you do),
then go for it! This is just to warn people of possible "gotcha's" later on.
You could always trim the fiberglass tip later if need be.
So get back out there and make your first airplane part! (I remember pulling it
out of the jig and parading it aroung the house like it was the Mona Lisa!
Nobody seemed as impressed as I was, though).
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Wing crap....
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
> i have pondered and read and re-read, help please. the plans say to
> trim the outer 606 in order to get fiberglass to fit.
> the is nothing that i see in the instructions, and yes i am learning
> that everything may not be spelled out. when laying skins over hs
> skeleton and aligning the skin to rib and then matchin the fiberglass.
> (just to see what the plans are referrin to) see the match, all is well
> and i see no need for any removal of the 606. perhaps the newer skins
> now are adapted an extension of about 12/32 for fiberglass attaachment.
> the plans "detail B" on pp 3 is the exact view i am speaking of. would
> hate to skin and find out later i should have... confused???? thanx to
> all for the help u all have provided. it is most appreciated. i look
> back now and notice my stupid questions so forgive me but i have been
> reading and studying belive it or not. thanx, bob in arkansas about to
> skin HS :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Peter's request for a ride comes just days before the Home Wing's monthly
meeting at my hangar where we will give everyone a motivational RV ride
before the meeting. I wish I was closer to Florida, I'd volunteer. Which
brings up another point. Having flown several hundred hours now across the
country, all VFR, it seems to me that sometimes when we are randomly
picking a place to stay it would be nice to have an RV directory of
builders who would possibly have some guests and pick their brain about
building or even buck some rivets. I was actually in Pensacola before
Sun-N-Fun and could have dropped in on Peter had I known. The realities of
VFR cross-country flights mean that you will be spending time in say
Hettinger, ND (two days, vis .2, ceiling 100'), or Poughkeepsie, NY(3 days,
ground fog) with nothing much to do. I also had CC Brown rescue me in
Laramie when one of my brake shoes died. He just happened to be at the
airport and noticed my 270 degree right turns, and loaned me a caliper and
shoe.(when his FAA inspection was but a week away!)
If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and eliminate
the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
brought up before? I have been off the list for a year or so. The idea of
a directory for lodging, or parts, or even advice could come in very handy
at times.
Send me your comments, or perhaps better suggestions. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Companies |
Jon,
It cost me $169 for Watkins Feight to ship my IO-360 from Dick Water's shop
in Orlando, FL to their terminal in Orange, CT. Dick said he use to ship via
Roadway, but found Watkins about 30% less expensive. Our 400 lb box came
through in fine shape.
If you decide to check out Watkins, I'd suggest you call them for a quote
and also have the company shipping your engine also get a quote.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A QB - due end of May
Miantic, CT
>From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Shipping Companies
>Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:06:36 -0700
>
>
>While on the subject of shipping companies, can anyone out there
>recommend a shipper to haul my O-320 from Miami, Fl to Portland, OR? I
>assume the whole mess with crate will weigh appx. 300#(???).
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Jon Elford
>RV6# 25201
>Banks, OR
>Wing crap....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
All,
Suggest that unless you have done business with a company (frequently)
always pay via credit card. It always makes me feel more secure knowing I
have an out.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A QB
Niantic, CT
*** Snippet ****
>From: "Stephen C. MacInnis" <stevemac1(at)Juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Audio Flight Avionics
>Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:42:57 -0500
>
>
>Unfortunately, you guys have not made me feel better about doing business
>with Audio Flight. I ordered (and paid for) my AV10 a few weeks before
>SNF. Rod put me off till after he returned from SNF. Now I can't even
>get a return phone call!!! Small owner financed companies nearly always
>have the troubles you described. The difference from one to another is
>how they correct the problem and how they handle their customers. Rod's
>customer relation techniques do not leave you with a warm fuzzy feeling
>given the mail order, up front payment and no delivery. If anyone
>manages to talk to this guy, please tell him to call me.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve MacInnis: waiting on AV10
>
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amateur-Built Accidents |
When I was trying to prove to my wife that homebuilts were in fact safe, I
remember seeing accident data that showed that homebuilts had similar safety
records as certified aircraft AFTER the 25-40 hour test flight period.
Before then, they have a higher accident and fatality rate. This might
explain some of the discrepancies we are seeing.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A Anxiously awaiting the wing kit
Pittsburgh, PA
> "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > >"According to NTSB, amateur-built airplanes fly less than two percent
> > >of the hours yet have ten percent of the accidents. Further,
> > >amateur-built airplanes involved in accidents are destroyed 54
> > >percent more often than manufactured aircraft and their pilots are
> > >killed 88 percent more often"...
> > >
> > >Assuming the facts are as stated, why do you suppose
> > >it is so??
> > >
> >
> > I am suspicious of this pronouncement . . . at OSH two
> > years ago, acting administrator Valentine stood on the
> > stage at the "Meet the Administrator Meeting" Sunday
> > morning and spoke as follows:
> >
> > "Amateur built accident rates are on a par with certified
> > aircraft. Keep up the good work and we'll stay out of your
> > hair."
> >
> > I recall viewing this as both a compliment and a threat.
> > We could be proud of our accident record but be on notice
> > that there are folk within the FAA that would dearly love
> > to expand their "helpfulness" into the amateur built world.
> >
> > Given that I personally witness that statement and given
> > its source, I would REALLY like to see the NTSB pronouncement
> > over somebody's signature . . . it wouldn't hurt to have
> > access to the source of thier data as well . . . were the
> > numbers truly as bad as the quoted paragraph suggest,
> > I'd think we'd be building our airplanes to a newly minted
> > FAR governing consumer grade aviation . . .
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Tri-Pacer info |
Hi Dan,
I had a '56 tripacer with the 0-320. The brakes were easy to
operate with the single bar. There was no differential braking,
without the stc'd kit you could get for about 1000.00. That was
pretty much a skyhawk setup cut to fit the tripacer. Then you
still needed the cleveland wheels and brakes to get real good
breaking. Maybe it was just that using your arm for braking
wasn't as affective as using your legs?
The flap handle was on the floor, something like an rv-6. The
elevator trim was overhead, in the form of a door window crank.
That was the only thing that was connfusing to use, for a while.
Of course, when you got really busy on a cross wind landing,
grabbing the brake handle wasn't always the easiest thing to do.
Overall, it was a great flying little plane that would easily do
130 mph. It would outclimb a 172. also. They are just not quite
as pretty. Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piper Tri-Pacer info |
| From: | J E REHLER <jepilot(at)Juno.com> |
I owned and flew a tri-pacer for about 3 years. The Johnson bar brake
works fine and it doesn't take long to get use to it. The rudder pedals
are connected directly to the nose wheel with push rods so you have very
positive steering. Differential braking is not required for good ground
control. The original brakes on the tri-pacer are a little weak. I
eventually replaced mine with Cleveland disc brakes which really helped.
Great plane. If it flew about 40 mph faster I would still have it. Good
luck.
J. E. Rehler RV6A flying, Corpus Christi, Texas, W5KNZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Last call for latest LRI order. |
Listers,
Anyone wanting in on the latest LRI order please contact me. I will be
sending in the money early next week. Below are the details. Thanks....AL
>Listers,
>I called Bill Geipel of Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) Company and asked him
>what kind of a discount he could give us if I could get 10 guys (or gals)
>together to purchase 10 units. Bill said the units normally sell for
>$770.00 plus $80.00 for the optional heater plus $35.00 for shipping. He
>said if I could sell 10 we can have them for $670.00 for the LRI and $72.00
>(cost) for the heater element and shipping would still be $20.00/unit. That
>is a savings of $100.00 for the LRI and $8.00 more if you buy the heater
>and $15.00 in shipping for a total possible savings of $123.00 or 14%. This
>price would be cash or check. For Credit Cards add 3%. If you wish to see
>more about the LRI go to:
>
> http://www.liftreserve.com/
>
>I will be handling the details of the shipment again so please contact me at:
>
> prober(at)iwaynet.net or call me at (614) 890-6301 Eastern Std. Time
>
>I will once again collect all the money and send Bill one check. If you
>want references for this deal I can give you 9 other guys and myself who
>participated in the last deal. You can contact me OFF-List about this and
>PLEASE...... LET'S NOT START THE "WHICH INDICATOR IS BETTER" AND >"WHETHER
OR NOT WE NEED ONE OF THESE"....... DEBATES AGAIN !
>Thanks...AL ( I have no connection to the LRI company or Bill Geipel
>other than this offer to RV builders.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith H. Wooddell" <KHWooddell(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance difference between Avemco and others |
Chris,
My name is Keith Wooddell and I am currently building an RV-8. I am also a
student pilot with 79 hours getting ready to take my check ride in two weeks.
A
good friend of mine, John, owns a 1968 C-150 who is willing to let me build time
in it if I Pay for the insurance policy for him, his wife, and myself. John is
a
private pilot with 1000 hrs. and is also building an RV-8.
Would you please provide a quotation for yearly coverage for the three of us on
this aircraft. Please quote based on the following:
Bodily injury and Per Person Prop.
Damage Ea Acc.
Property Damage Liability $25,000
$250,000 $250,000
Aircraft Damage Liab. $ 25,000 ea. aircraft
My premium is currently $ 300.00/yr.
Thanks,
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> If anywants a quote I will be glad to help them out as almost of the
> insurance companies out there to get you the best rate. If your interested
> in a quote please feel free to send me emial or request if of my web site.
> Please excuse the web site as it was just started a few days ago.
>
Keith H. Wooddell, Applications Engineer
The S. G. Morris Company
699 Miner Rd.
Highland Hts., OH 44143
(440) 243-0462
(440) 243-0462
KHWooddell(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N426BBRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: For Australian Builders |
Todd,
Senior moment here. I got your email last night and I'm not sure I am
the person you wanted to send it to. I didn't understand your saying
something about a question I asked and the fact that your kit was shipped
last week.
I lilve in Houston, Texas and have been corresponding with Ken Glover
down there in Australia. Maybe there is a connection there.
Anyway, I'm always glad to correspond with fellow RVers and I know that
once your kit gets to you, you will be very, very, busy. I tell people that
the happiest two consecutive years of my life were spent building my RV6A.
Of course my wife doesn't appreciate that statement.
I am saving your email address so that I might correspond with you if
you like. Just let me know.
Bill Bishop
Houston, Texas
RV6A
335 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
listers,
they told me at sun-n-fun booth if i wanted a printout ( full size with no
gaps or overlays ) to put it on a floppy and bring it to kinko's .
i couldn't get it to print out without gaps on my printer either
scott
waiting on fuse
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and
> eliminate
> the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
> brought up before?
I've been on for a year now and don't remember seeing this idea. I
think it's a great one!
I'm sure here in Austin there are probably a dozen potential
stranded/broken-RVer hosts - and I'll be one of them.
Bring it on!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wing tanks
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
Sounds like the way mine was. I'd suggest torquing the nut as mine came
loose enough to almost slip despite the cotter pin! This was after two or
three hundred hours.
Please share the download site for the manual. I can't find it
D Walsh
>>
So did yours loosen up when it had fuel in it?
Here's the URL for downloading the acrobat format service manuals:
http://www.pacpac.com/html/manual.htm
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV6AQB, O-360 installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
>>
A lot of the friction is likely from the accelerator pump plunger which
is dry and not lubricated by fuel.
Loosening the castellated nut will not reduce the friction. It only
holds on the throttle actuator arm which can be repositioned for
different engine installations.
Scott McDaniels
<<
The friction is there for the full range of throttle movement - could this
still be the pump? Should I try putting some fuel in it now, or should I
just mount it & forget about the problem for the moment?
Thanks, for your continuing support on this list, Scott.
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV6AQB, O-360 installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
And I might add, be sure to get a policy so you can find out what the
limitations are, SCOTT???
hal
Coverage bound
> Just a note to those that think all coverage is the same. Even the same
> companies offer different policies. Ask for FAR restrictions, extra
> coverages and if there are any exclusions that are targeted at experiment
> aircraft, notably comments about exclusions for defects in materials,
> workmanship, design or plans.
>
> Additonally many companys have an exclsion for any passenger coverage until
> the aircraft has a minimun number of hours and the FAA has issued its
> airworthiness certificate. (That means no coverage for the test pilot when
> they are not the owner. Owners are not covered anyway in a standard policy)
>
> Always compare like policies and coverage (and exclusions) not only premium.
>
> Scott "Sky" Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/12/99 12:15:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<<
> If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and
> eliminate
> the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
> brought up before?
I've been on for a year now and don't remember seeing this idea. I
think it's a great one!
I'm sure here in Austin there are probably a dozen potential
stranded/broken-RVer hosts - and I'll be one of them.
>>
I suggested this earlier, but not necessary for broken down/stranded types. I
would welcome folks that might wish to overnight here. Maybe we go out for
dinner and swap RV tales , you buy dinner and I bed you down for the night. I
live on a residential airpark so your airplane spends the night here also.
Bernie Kerr, SE Fla, 6A panel about to go back to work after a 6 week layup
with al. panel cut of pinky tendon and nerve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All electric panels; a list-server thread |
At 08:39 AM 5/11/99, you wrote:
>
>There was a list-server thread I participated in with a group
>of Grumman drivers a few weeks ago. I was going to delete the
>thread but after reviewing it, I decided to post it on our
>website. Interested parties may click on:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/allelect.html
Interesting thread. I just put a pair of vacuum-powered gyros in my Piper
Clipper because there wasn't room for electric gyros. Since the
O-235-C(whatever) doesn't have a vacuum pump pad the installation required
two very large venturis to be able to produce 3" of vacuum at 80 mph.
Seems that the current crop of air-driven gyros need a much greater volume
of air than do the older AN-style gyros. This pretty much precludes using
a single venturi as a backup air source for air-driven gyros.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel valve troublems |
Yesterday I decided to get the Andair fuel valve but now I agree completely with
Scott that the supplied valve meets requirements and is safe. Moreover, it has
more history than the expensive one.
hal
Scott argued quite persuasively:
> The valve currently supplied is not likely to have any binding problem.
> The valve that used to be supplied can if it is not maintained.
> As Mark F. already mentioned "A fuel valve doesn't work fine on one
> flight and then totally freeze up on the next.
>
> These airplanes do require some maintenance!
> This may include disassembling the fuel valve occasionally and lubing it
> with some fuel lube. This happens to be one of the things the stuff was
> invented for, hence the name.
>
> As for the detent issue... The recommended locations for the fuel valves
> in the different RV models locates them totally visible.
> There is no reason to make a tank selection change without visually
> verifying the fuel selector position.
> While doing the FAA required labeling of the fuel valve it is a simple
> matter to add some indicator lines with pinstripe tape that will make it
> very obvious when the selector handle is pointed at the correct position.
> I myself never trust just the feel of a detent to know that the valve is
> positioned correctly.
>
> Other valves are available (at a significant cost, in my opinion) and a
> builder has to decide for them self if it is something that the need.
> The valve currently supplied in the kit is a compromise of function and
> cost. It works just fine and it helps keep the kit cost down (which is
> one of the reasons you all by the kits, right?).
>
> BTW... The RV-6A that I built now has close to 750 hrs on it with the
> orig valve (the blue RV-6A prototype has over 2300 hrs), and no problem
> has ever been encountered other than it starting to get slightly tighter
> to move at which time it got disassembled and lubed with "fuel lube".
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> Former RV-6A owner
> North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
> This opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
> necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
<< And I might add, be sure to get a policy so you can find out what the
limitations are, SCOTT??? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
> In a previous message you mentioned that AFA could be "slow as molassis".
>I'm afraid that I'd have to say slower. I ordered my AV-8 at the
>Copperstate fly-in last October and still dont have it. Ive contacted Rod
>on several occasions over the past 6 months to find out status of my order.
He has pushed me back too but he has always delivered ... eventually.
>On at least one occasion he has replied that he has pushed delivery of my
>unit back to allow delivery to customers who are closer to flying. While I
>have no problem with deferring for those who are more in need of product
>than I am, I think he should have informed me of this before he did it.
I agree with you on that.
>I
>also feel that 6 months should be far more than sufficient to get a product
>out the door no matter what the demand or need is. This is especially true
>considering that I paid in full when I ordered.
Oooo, that is bad. If you have paid, you should receive your unit soonest.
> I'm afraid that I have to agree with Von. Ive hyped this unit on the list
>and off on a number of occasions but feel I can no longer do so until AFA
>improves their business practices.
I hear you. I know that they had a bad period last year when the
manufacturer quit making the LCD they use which put them way back on
deliveries. It has taken them a long time to recover from that problem.
No, this is a classic case of a small, undercapitalized company growing
beyond their initial capacity. It seems to me that they are an ideal
candidate for a bank inventory loan. Heck, when you have orders in hand a
bank should be willing to advance a portion of those orders, at least
enough to fund building inventory.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
>
>Unfortunately, you guys have not made me feel better about doing business
>with Audio Flight. I ordered (and paid for) my AV10 a few weeks before
>SNF. Rod put me off till after he returned from SNF. Now I can't even
>get a return phone call!!!
Rod called me yesterday so he is returning calls.
>Small owner financed companies nearly always
>have the troubles you described. The difference from one to another is
>how they correct the problem and how they handle their customers. Rod's
>customer relation techniques do not leave you with a warm fuzzy feeling
>given the mail order, up front payment and no delivery. If anyone
>manages to talk to this guy, please tell him to call me.
Wilco.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | broken dremel tool |
to all the eletronic gurus on the list,
i have a dremel tool with the variable speed control on the handle. after
giving it a strenuous workout the other day making the control stick
cutouts, the variable speed is not working. with the switch "off" the motor
is off. but once you move the switch to "on" the motor goes to max rpm,
regardless of the speed setting.
i bought it less than a year ago, and really have not even used it that
much. is this something i can fix myself? or do i need to send it for
repairs? or buy a new one?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
Make sure you fully understand the tiling process before you write off
the printing features of Panel Planner. You may have to actually read
the manual (I did anyway)! :-)
Sam Buchanan (finishing spinner and getting ready to construct a spray
booth)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> listers,
> they told me at sun-n-fun booth if i wanted a printout ( full size with no
> gaps or overlays ) to put it on a floppy and bring it to kinko's .
> i couldn't get it to print out without gaps on my printer either
> scott
> waiting on fuse
> tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <skywagon(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Leading Edges |
Thank you all for your answers/suggestions to my question on leading
edges. After reading the answers from the rocket people, I think Van's
is doing the right thing in going to .020" material on control surfaces.
I did read the manual re the rtv blobs at the end of the stiffeners, and
while it is not esthetically pleasing, I suppose it does serve a pupose.
I am going to attempt to roll the edges and fasten them togeather
according to the manual, without stressing the skin, according to Scott
McD. I would still like a small gap seal, ala rocket group. I'll let you
all know how it comes out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | [Tri]Pacer and the RV-4 |
>Just watch your power, she will drop like a rock without power.
You know, I was wondering how to somehow make the Tripacer thread RV
related and just realized that I can. You see, when my RV-4 was down for
its engine overhaul and new instrument panel I became so desperate that I
bought a Piper Clipper which is the precursor to the Pacer. A Pacer is a
degenerate Clipper in that they removed the sticks (real airplanes have
sticks you know) and added (totally useless IMHO) flaps. In any case the
Clipper turned out to be a delightful little airplane that will carry its
own weight (empty weight is 850 lbs, max gross is 1650 lbs) and, with its
large rudder and full-span ailerons, can handle just about any crosswind
you can imagine. Its short wings and short fuselage also contribute to its
"quick" response to the controls. It also has the ability to come down
"like a rock" if you get on the back side of the power curve thus making
flaps superfluous.
So, what does this have to do with RVs? Well, I use the Clipper to train
people to fly my -4. You see, if someone can fly the Clipper reasonably
well, flying the -4 is totally anticlimatic.
If someone wants to solo my -4 I take them out in the Clipper and let them
get some experience in that first. Once they can demonstrate that they can
competently fly the Clipper, the -4 checkout consists of one hop with the
prospective -4 pilot in the back seat and the instruction to fly -4 on
final with one notch of flaps and 65 kts of airspeed.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
i found the Panel Planner software to be VERY "buggy"...so much so, you might
as well cut out shapes and just do the "paper doll" panel planner method and
save $100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
If orders are paid in full and bank should have no problem in making an
inventory loan, because they should have a pledge against the bank deposits.
Bank loans will raise the cost of doing business and so the final price of
the products.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Audio Flight Avionics
>
>> In a previous message you mentioned that AFA could be "slow as molassis".
>>I'm afraid that I'd have to say slower. I ordered my AV-8 at the
>>Copperstate fly-in last October and still dont have it. Ive contacted Rod
>>on several occasions over the past 6 months to find out status of my
order.
>
>He has pushed me back too but he has always delivered ... eventually.
>
>>On at least one occasion he has replied that he has pushed delivery of my
>>unit back to allow delivery to customers who are closer to flying. While I
>>have no problem with deferring for those who are more in need of product
>>than I am, I think he should have informed me of this before he did it.
>
>I agree with you on that.
>
>>I
>>also feel that 6 months should be far more than sufficient to get a
product
>>out the door no matter what the demand or need is. This is especially true
>>considering that I paid in full when I ordered.
>
>Oooo, that is bad. If you have paid, you should receive your unit soonest.
>
>> I'm afraid that I have to agree with Von. Ive hyped this unit on the list
>>and off on a number of occasions but feel I can no longer do so until AFA
>>improves their business practices.
>
>I hear you. I know that they had a bad period last year when the
>manufacturer quit making the LCD they use which put them way back on
>deliveries. It has taken them a long time to recover from that problem.
>
>No, this is a classic case of a small, undercapitalized company growing
>beyond their initial capacity. It seems to me that they are an ideal
>candidate for a bank inventory loan. Heck, when you have orders in hand a
>bank should be willing to advance a portion of those orders, at least
>enough to fund building inventory.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | panel planner/steve davis |
It is buggy, however I believe that the time it saves you still can't beat
it, especially if you are to have your panel cut by a machinist. (I.E.
Steve Davis) Because he can work with the files and get a perfect cut on
your instruments. This will save him time, which will cost you MUCH less.
The printing aspect is kind of buggy, I do agree. I didn't really care
about that, because Steve sent me a full size CAD printout of my panel with
all my lettering on it, which I like better anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
-----Original Message-----
From: Airbatix(at)aol.com <Airbatix(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: panel planner software
>
>i found the Panel Planner software to be VERY "buggy"...so much so, you
might
>as well cut out shapes and just do the "paper doll" panel planner method
and
>save $100
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Sounds like a great idea. If you make a web based form, I would be happy to
assist in making up the form, and/or hosting on my website.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
-----Original Message-----
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 6:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: free ride
>
> Peter's request for a ride comes just days before the Home Wing's
monthly
>meeting at my hangar where we will give everyone a motivational RV ride
>before the meeting. I wish I was closer to Florida, I'd volunteer. Which
>brings up another point. Having flown several hundred hours now across the
>country, all VFR, it seems to me that sometimes when we are randomly
>picking a place to stay it would be nice to have an RV directory of
>builders who would possibly have some guests and pick their brain about
>building or even buck some rivets. I was actually in Pensacola before
>Sun-N-Fun and could have dropped in on Peter had I known. The realities of
>VFR cross-country flights mean that you will be spending time in say
>Hettinger, ND (two days, vis .2, ceiling 100'), or Poughkeepsie, NY(3 days,
>ground fog) with nothing much to do. I also had CC Brown rescue me in
>Laramie when one of my brake shoes died. He just happened to be at the
>airport and noticed my 270 degree right turns, and loaned me a caliper and
>shoe.(when his FAA inspection was but a week away!)
> If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and
eliminate
>the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
>brought up before? I have been off the list for a year or so. The idea of
>a directory for lodging, or parts, or even advice could come in very handy
>at times.
> Send me your comments, or perhaps better suggestions. kevin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
What is the part # of brake linings that fit a 6A
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Precision Airmotive MA-4-5 carb |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>A lot of the friction is likely from the accelerator pump plunger
>which
>is dry and not lubricated by fuel.
>Loosening the castellated nut will not reduce the friction. It only
>holds on the throttle actuator arm which can be repositioned for
>different engine installations.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
><<
>
>The friction is there for the full range of throttle movement - could
>this
>still be the pump? Should I try putting some fuel in it now, or
>should I
>just mount it & forget about the problem for the moment?
>
>Thanks, for your continuing support on this list, Scott.
>
>Regards,
>
>Chris Good,
>West Bend, WI
>RV6AQB, O-360 installation
>
The accelerator pump plunger does move for most all of the throttle arm
movement (it is the plunger rod that moves up and down, connected from
the throttle plate shaft on the oposite side from the actuator arm).
When the Carbs. are new they do feel a little stiff, but with out looking
at yours I can't say for sure that it is normal.
I wouldn't put any fuel in it but if you still aren't sure... take it out
to the airport. Find an experienced A&P mech, and ask him if it seems
normal and would he mount it on an airplane.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone and do not
necessarily reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Amateur-Built Accidents |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com> |
>
>When I was trying to prove to my wife that homebuilts were in fact
>safe, I
>remember seeing accident data that showed that homebuilts had similar
>safety
>records as certified aircraft AFTER the 25-40 hour test flight period.
>Before then, they have a higher accident and fatality rate. This
>might
>explain some of the discrepancies we are seeing.
>
>Peter Christensen
>RV-6A Anxiously awaiting the wing kit
>Pittsburgh, PA
>
Richard Collins (FLYING mag.) does a once a year evaluation of NTSB
reports from the previous year.
This year he took a close look at Experimental/Amateur built airplanes.
One thing he pointed out in his article was that the accident rate is
very similar compared to the rest of the general aviation fleet.
The one major difference in the data though, was that if you were
involved in an experimental aircraft accident, it is much more likely
that it will be a fatal accident.
I think this is at least in part caused by the fact that experimentals
have a much higher incidence rate from some accident causes such as
stall/spin after buzz job, impact with the ground during low level
aerobatics, etc.
It is not very common for a Cessna 172 to be involved in a low level
aerobatics accident.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains, OR smcdaniels(at)Juno.com
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Hoffman <hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Quickbuilds in cinci Area |
Are there any quickbuild Rv6 or 6As in the greater Cincinnati area that
I could look at or hug prior to making a decision on buying this level
of completion. 100 mile radius would do if your willing.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
Listers. please dont bother answering my post regarding brake pads for a
6A, I found the information in the archives.
chet
dont archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <BJapundza(at)ksmconsulting.com> |
| Subject: | Audio Flight Avionics |
I thought I was one of the only ones that had problems with AFA!
Last year at Sun N Fun I purchased an AV-8, which I paid in full. It took
almost 5 months to receive my unit, after many phone calls and empty
promises from Rod. I had to tell them I was ready to fly (which I wasn't)
to get the unit to finish up the electrical system. When I got the unit, I
was missing some senders which I was told were backordered. Another 4
months and literally a dozen calls later, I received my senders, only after
a threatening email in which I was going to post negative comments about
their service on the list. I was really disappointed in their customer
service.
In their defense, however, I will say they are nice guys and their unit is
of high quality. The documentation is good, and it is a cool piece of
avionics. Does the same thing as a VM-1000 but without the fancy LCD
display, and has the added benefit of voice alerts at the cost. I just
hope they get their act together in regards to their money situation. If
they have to get bank loans to fill orders, then they should do it. The
additional cost per unit certainly outweighs any negative publicity they
could get from untimely deliveries.
Would I buy again from them? Yes, but money would exchange hands only if
the unit was on the table in front of me.
Bob
RV-6, prepping fuse for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: broken dremel tool |
Mine acts the same way: it's due to dust in the rheostat, I'm certain. Blow
it out or spray contact cleaner in there and keep going...
Once you are flying your RV, you will look back on the days of
stuck-wide-open Dremel tools and laugh.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)wa.freei.net> |
I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use screws and
nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a #8. Any
suggestions ?
Thanks in advance,
Scott Baldwin
Gig Harbor, Wa.
---SENT FROM A FREE INTERNET AND EMAIL ACCOUNT FROM WWW.FREEi.NET!---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 606 (outboard) tip rib question |
I looked at my RV-8 HS-801PP skins and they do have the extension, as far as I
can tell I didn't see any mention of trimming my HS-606 other than seeing it on
the plans. Why not trial fit the fiberglass tip while the skins are clecoed to
the skeleton to find out if you need to trim or not.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Empennage
Bonnyville, Ab Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
Bob Paulovich wrote:
>
> i have pondered and read and re-read, help please. the plans say to
> trim the outer 606 in order to get fiberglass to fit.
> the is nothing that i see in the instructions, and yes i am learning
> that everything may not be spelled out. when laying skins over hs
> skeleton and aligning the skin to rib and then matchin the fiberglass.
> (just to see what the plans are referrin to) see the match, all is well
> and i see no need for any removal of the 606. perhaps the newer skins
> now are adapted an extension of about 12/32 for fiberglass attaachment.
> the plans "detail B" on pp 3 is the exact view i am speaking of. would
> hate to skin and find out later i should have... confused???? thanx to
> all for the help u all have provided. it is most appreciated. i look
> back now and notice my stupid questions so forgive me but i have been
> reading and studying belive it or not. thanx, bob in arkansas about to
> skin HS :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
Scott; I used #6 nutplates on my RV-8 wingtips; I think they look better.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
On Wed, 12 May 1999 21:07:09 +700 "Scott Baldwin"
writes:
>
>I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use
>screws and
>nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a
>#8. Any
>suggestions ?
>Thanks in advance,
>Scott Baldwin
>Gig Harbor, Wa.
>---SENT FROM A FREE INTERNET AND EMAIL ACCOUNT FROM WWW.FREEi.NET!---
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
When I bought my AV-8 from Rod, I put half of the money down, the other
half when he delivered. I had the same problem with senders; he took
forever to get them out to me. Hopefully I will never need service on
this unit! Really, though, I wish the best for Rod, he may well get it
together, in which case he will have a very desireable and hard to beat
product, and at a reasonable price. He could easily become the leader in
the marketplace in engine monitors!
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>I thought I was one of the only ones that had problems with AFA!
>
>Last year at Sun N Fun I purchased an AV-8, which I paid in full. It
>took
>almost 5 months to receive my unit, after many phone calls and empty
>promises from Rod. I had to tell them I was ready to fly (which I
>wasn't)
>to get the unit to finish up the electrical system. When I got the
>unit, I
>was missing some senders which I was told were backordered. Another 4
>months and literally a dozen calls later, I received my senders, only
>after
>a threatening email in which I was going to post negative comments
>about
>their service on the list. I was really disappointed in their
>customer
>service.
>
>In their defense, however, I will say they are nice guys and their
>unit is
>of high quality. The documentation is good, and it is a cool piece of
>avionics. Does the same thing as a VM-1000 but without the fancy LCD
>display, and has the added benefit of voice alerts at the cost. I
>just
>hope they get their act together in regards to their money situation.
>If
>they have to get bank loans to fill orders, then they should do it.
>The
>additional cost per unit certainly outweighs any negative publicity
>they
>could get from untimely deliveries.
>
>Would I buy again from them? Yes, but money would exchange hands only
>if
>the unit was on the table in front of me.
>
>Bob
>RV-6, prepping fuse for paint
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | top skin rivets, qb6 slider |
I am trying to drill the forward top skin on a qb6 slider and have a problem
with rivets along the bottom of that skin, where it is riveted to the
longeron. Plans call for AD4 rivets at 1.5 spacing along this region.
However, my fuselage came with the bottom skin riveted in place from the
F6105 bulkhead (between the firewall and the instrument panel) on back.
This leaves me with a dilemma about how to rivet the top skin in place from
the F6105 on back. Forward of the F6105, the rivet holes are open, so I can
back drill as in the Orndorff video. In addition to the rivets already in
place, the hat section of the 604 bulkhead where the top skin is tapered
back to the outside of the roll bar seems to have no room for any rivets at
all for about 2 inches along the base of the top skin. I was wondering if
anyone had any ideas for dealing with this other than what I can think of:
1) drill out the AD4 rivets in place (lots of them) and back drill the skin
as per Orndorff.
2) Drill in new AD4 rivets in between the existing rivets and countersink
the lower skin.
3) Drill in lots of AD3 rivets in between the existing rivets, again
countersinking.
4) Aint got no ideas for the hat section other than pop rivets (ugly).
Bucking rivets near the rear of the top skin looks like all kinds of sporty
fun where the canopy deck narrows down and curls under.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Gar Pessel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | primer-skin question |
donin the 3 step prime to inside of HS skins- anyway of keeping the mess
off outer skin??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Flight Avionics |
as long as he never puts the word scan in the name ;)
cheers
Todd
>
>When I bought my AV-8 from Rod, I put half of the money down, the other
>half when he delivered. I had the same problem with senders; he took
>forever to get them out to me. Hopefully I will never need service on
>this unit! Really, though, I wish the best for Rod, he may well get it
>together, in which case he will have a very desireable and hard to beat
>product, and at a reasonable price. He could easily become the leader in
>the marketplace in engine monitors!
>Von Alexander
>N41VA(at)juno.com
>
> writes:
>>
>>
>>I thought I was one of the only ones that had problems with AFA!
>>
>>Last year at Sun N Fun I purchased an AV-8, which I paid in full. It
>>took
>>almost 5 months to receive my unit, after many phone calls and empty
>>promises from Rod. I had to tell them I was ready to fly (which I
>>wasn't)
>>to get the unit to finish up the electrical system. When I got the
>>unit, I
>>was missing some senders which I was told were backordered. Another 4
>>months and literally a dozen calls later, I received my senders, only
>>after
>>a threatening email in which I was going to post negative comments
>>about
>>their service on the list. I was really disappointed in their
>>customer
>>service.
>>
>>In their defense, however, I will say they are nice guys and their
>>unit is
>>of high quality. The documentation is good, and it is a cool piece of
>>avionics. Does the same thing as a VM-1000 but without the fancy LCD
>>display, and has the added benefit of voice alerts at the cost. I
>>just
>>hope they get their act together in regards to their money situation.
>>If
>>they have to get bank loans to fill orders, then they should do it.
>>The
>>additional cost per unit certainly outweighs any negative publicity
>>they
>>could get from untimely deliveries.
>>
>>Would I buy again from them? Yes, but money would exchange hands only
>>if
>>the unit was on the table in front of me.
>>
>>Bob
>>RV-6, prepping fuse for paint
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: broken dremel tool |
>I have a dremel tool with the variable speed control on the handle. The
>variable speed is not working. Is this something I can fix myself?
If you are building an airplane, you can fix the Dremel tool. I had the same
thing happen after abusing mine.
The switch comes as a unit. Mine was a Sears but they are probably all made
by the same company. You order the switch, take the old one out and plug in
the new one and it is good for a few more years of abuse. Mine has not
faltered since the new switch was installed. I think it was $35 for the
switch. Just make sure you pay attention to how things come apart so you can
put them back together the same way, especially the collar at the lock
(where you lock it to change bits).
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
>I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use screws
and
>nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a #8.
I'm about to do this myself and although I haven't done it yet I don't think
you need to go as big as #8 -- I think a lot of people go with #4s even. 30
cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds up. My
rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source for #4
nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
Hi listers,
Where is the best place to install a "Navaid Wing-Leveler"? In a completed
RV4.
I'm lost. Actually my friend is the one who wants to know. He is not on the
list. Nor, did he build his plane. Thanks,
Gary in Indiana
RV3 160 Flying
waiting on engine/gear
mount repairs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
I used the #4 screws in the Cleavland Aircraft Tools Kit. They work
fine and are small. You may have to open each nutplate up with a tap a
little in order to keep from twisting the screws in half or damaaging
the heads.
chet
Scott Baldwin wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use screws and
> nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a #8. Any
> suggestions ?
> Thanks in advance,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
I think a lot of people go with #4s even. 30
> cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds up. My
> rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source for #4
> nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
> randallh(at)home.com
>
Try Clevealand Tool, They sell a kit with the screws, nutplates, and
soft rivets. Can't remember the price but you may save a little on the
whole kit.
RV-4 Priming fuselage today. Paint Sunday.
Buffalo GAp TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
I recall a discussion a while back about this. Should be in the Archives. I
believe some thought that the #4 set up was too small and I recall making a
note to use #6's. Given the total cost of your plane, what's the cost of
difference of these items anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wingtip attach
>
>I think a lot of people go with #4s even. 30
>> cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds up.
My
>> rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source for
#4
>> nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
>>
>> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
>> Portland, OR
>> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>> randallh(at)home.com
>>
>
>Try Clevealand Tool, They sell a kit with the screws, nutplates, and
>soft rivets. Can't remember the price but you may save a little on the
>whole kit.
>
> RV-4 Priming fuselage today. Paint Sunday.
> Buffalo GAp TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | broken dremel tool |
The same thing happened to me and mine is less than a year old, too. I
planned to take it back to the seller and ask for a new one.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A derailed temporarily while I get an old BMW motorcycle back on the
road for spring
-----Original Message-----
to all the eletronic gurus on the list,
i have a dremel tool with the variable speed control on the
handle. after
giving it a strenuous workout the other day making the
control stick
cutouts, the variable speed is not working. with the switch
"off" the motor
is off. but once you move the switch to "on" the motor goes
to max rpm,
regardless of the speed setting.
i bought it less than a year ago, and really have not even
used it that
much. is this something i can fix myself? or do i need to
send it for
repairs? or buy a new one?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: top skin rivets, qb6 slider |
Gar,
I had the same question, and Tom's answer at Vans was to either drill new holes,
or drill out the rivets. I chose the latter. Go with the pop-rivets where
necessary. A little filler will make everything fine, or use the CherryMax
rivets.
Chris Browne
-6A QB
Atlanta
Gar & Jan Pessel wrote:
>
> I am trying to drill the forward top skin on a qb6 slider and have a problem
> with rivets along the bottom of that skin, where it is riveted to the
> longeron. Plans call for AD4 rivets at 1.5 spacing along this region.
> However, my fuselage came with the bottom skin riveted in place from the
> F6105 bulkhead (between the firewall and the instrument panel) on back.
> This leaves me with a dilemma about how to rivet the top skin in place from
> the F6105 on back. ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
Just started my wing. I'm based at Ft Lauderdale Executive and own a Grumman
AA-5
Looking for fellow builders in The Tampa area that would be willing to let me
take a look at their project. Also , I'll have another excuse for flying the
Grumman.
BTW, I'll be more than happy to give you a ride.
Peter
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> listers,
> they told me at sun-n-fun booth if i wanted a printout ( full size with no
> gaps or overlays ) to put it on a floppy and bring it to kinko's .
> i couldn't get it to print out without gaps on my printer either
> scott
> waiting on fuse
> tampa
>
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Miami Beach, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
Emrath wrote:
>
>
> I recall a discussion a while back about this. Should be in the Archives. I
> believe some thought that the #4 set up was too small and I recall making a
> note to use #6's. Given the total cost of your plane, what's the cost of
I used the Cleveland kit which is supplied with #4 screws. The end
result looks really nice. However great care must be taken in working
with #4 screws as they damage very easily. I have damaged several and
the fix is to drill the heads off, just like a rivit. The remaining part
of the screw can be backed out with a vicegrip pliers. As the platenuts
get "broken in" the chance for damage lessons. I didn't run a tap
through them first. I have since changed the screws to stainless and
they seem to be a little more durable.
--
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
Peter
n3773 wrote:
>
> Peter's request for a ride comes just days before the Home Wing's monthly
> meeting at my hangar where we will give everyone a motivational RV ride
> before the meeting. I wish I was closer to Florida, I'd volunteer. Which
> brings up another point. Having flown several hundred hours now across the
> country, all VFR, it seems to me that sometimes when we are randomly
> picking a place to stay it would be nice to have an RV directory of
> builders who would possibly have some guests and pick their brain about
> building or even buck some rivets. I was actually in Pensacola before
> Sun-N-Fun and could have dropped in on Peter had I known. The realities of
> VFR cross-country flights mean that you will be spending time in say
> Hettinger, ND (two days, vis .2, ceiling 100'), or Poughkeepsie, NY(3 days,
> ground fog) with nothing much to do. I also had CC Brown rescue me in
> Laramie when one of my brake shoes died. He just happened to be at the
> airport and noticed my 270 degree right turns, and loaned me a caliper and
> shoe.(when his FAA inspection was but a week away!)
> If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and eliminate
> the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
> brought up before? I have been off the list for a year or so. The idea of
> a directory for lodging, or parts, or even advice could come in very handy
> at times.
> Send me your comments, or perhaps better suggestions. kevin
>
--
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Miami Beach, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuilds in cinci Area |
HAVE 6A QUICK BUILD IN INDIANAPOLIS YOU CAN LOOK AT. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO
SEE IT PLEASE CALL JOHN MARSHALL AT 317 862-2389.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner/steve davis |
After hand-cutting gyro and instrument holes, I don't see how an NC machine
can produce a "perfect cut". Anyone who has installed instruments lately
will attest to the fact that the hole circles are not all on the same
bolt-circle radii and that the holes are not all on 90 degree spacings. In
short, different manufacturers have slightly different layouts for
ostensibly "standard" 3 1/8 or 2 1/4 instruments.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 7:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: panel planner/steve davis
>
>It is buggy, however I believe that the time it saves you still can't beat
>it, especially if you are to have your panel cut by a machinist. (I.E.
>Steve Davis) Because he can work with the files and get a perfect cut on
>your instruments. This will save him time, which will cost you MUCH less.
>The printing aspect is kind of buggy, I do agree. I didn't really care
>about that, because Steve sent me a full size CAD printout of my panel with
>all my lettering on it, which I like better anyway.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Airbatix(at)aol.com <Airbatix(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:00 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: panel planner software
>
>
>>
>>i found the Panel Planner software to be VERY "buggy"...so much so, you
>might
>>as well cut out shapes and just do the "paper doll" panel planner method
>and
>>save $100
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
There are probably over 100 things to investigate in buying property
co-owned with other people. Very carefully check the deeds and covenants to
see if they will protect you as well as allow you to use the land as you
wish. Also, check the ownership, access and maintenance of common areas.
There is most likely an owners association. Check their financial status.
Also, check their past record of handling problems that may have occurred.
How are disputes resolved? There must be a thousand different questions you
could ask here. Talk with other owners to get a feel for the attitude in
general. Attend a meeting of the owner's association.
Hope this gives you some ideas. I certainly have learned a lot about
group ownership.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
In a message dated 5/13/99 2:09:05, randallh(at)home.com writes:
>I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use screws
and
>nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a #8.
I'm about to do this myself and although I haven't done it yet I don't think
you need to go as big as #8 -- I think a lot of people go with #4s even. 30
cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds up. My
rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source for #4
nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
Portland, OR>>
You might ask around. I used #4s from Cleaveland, which was a fine kit and
good results. However, if I were to do it over I would use pop rivets. I
have found no need to remove the tip in the first two years, 240 hours. This
seems to be a rare place where you could smooth out the seam wiht filler and
cover the pop rivets at the same time. Most people use a wing tip light
which allows access and with a landing light nearby, wing tips should be a
fairly permanent installation.
I suggest you ask others if they have had to remove the wing tip, and plan
accordingly. You are still in a good position having spent little yet.
Good Luck
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
In a message dated 5/12/99 9:18:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
n728p(at)wa.freei.net writes:
<< I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use screws
and
nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to a #8. >>
The smallest fasteners I would recommend for the wing tip and empennage
fairing attachments are #6. Anything smaller is too easy to twist off unless
you run a tap thru the nutplates to remove the locking feature. I used #8 in
the wing root fairings per plans but if I were to do it again I would go with
#6. My #6 wing tip and empennage fairing attachments are on 3" centers.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
>Anyone know a source for #4 nutplates? What spacing to people normally use?
>Try Clevealand Tool. They sell a kit with the screws, nutplates, and
>soft rivets for securing the nutplates to the fiberglass tip.
As I remember, there is also a special dimple die for those sized screws as
the angle of the dimple is different than a rivet. I spaced mine every two
inches. They are the best looking of the screws, I think. They are easy to
strip if you don't tidy up the nutplate with a tap first. Something to do
some night while watching TV. It takes a touch to open them up enough to get
the screw in easier but not so much the screw is lose.
They are easier to strip than larger screws. Having the valve grinding
compound handy helps to keep from stripping that tiny Phillips head. I
ordered a spare set of screws when I got mine to replace the ones I
'screwed' up.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying, but never enough
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
Also I might mention with regards to the idea of using bondo, etc to
smooth over joints such as between fiberglass parts and metal parts
nearly always results in cracking at the seam line eventually. I had this
happen on my RV-4, and I have noticed the same problem on nearly all the
others who have done this. Just my opinion.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>In a message dated 5/13/99 2:09:05, randallh(at)home.com writes:
>
>
>
>>I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use
>screws
>and
>>nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to
>a #8.
>
>I'm about to do this myself and although I haven't done it yet I don't
>think
>you need to go as big as #8 -- I think a lot of people go with #4s
>even. 30
>cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds
>up. My
>rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source
>for #4
>nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
>Portland, OR>>
>
>You might ask around. I used #4s from Cleaveland, which was a fine
>kit and
>good results. However, if I were to do it over I would use pop
>rivets. I
>have found no need to remove the tip in the first two years, 240
>hours. This
>seems to be a rare place where you could smooth out the seam wiht
>filler and
>cover the pop rivets at the same time. Most people use a wing tip
>light
>which allows access and with a landing light nearby, wing tips should
>be a
>fairly permanent installation.
>
>I suggest you ask others if they have had to remove the wing tip, and
>plan
>accordingly. You are still in a good position having spent little
>yet.
>
>Good Luck
>
>
>D Walsh
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wingtip attach |
I recommend removeable wingtips; I have already had to remove mine to
chase down a radio-strobe interference problem. It really doesn't take
that long to install the nutplates.
Von Alexander
N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>In a message dated 5/13/99 2:09:05, randallh(at)home.com writes:
>
>
>
>>I'm getting ready to attach the wingtips to our RV-6. I want to use
>screws
>and
>>nutplates. Will #6 flushhead screws do the job or do I need to go to
>a #8.
>
>I'm about to do this myself and although I haven't done it yet I don't
>think
>you need to go as big as #8 -- I think a lot of people go with #4s
>even. 30
>cents a pop for the nutplates though, and you need a bunch so it adds
>up. My
>rough calculations yield about 70-80 of them . Anyone know a source
>for #4
>nutplates for less than that? What spacing to people normally use?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings/finish)
>Portland, OR>>
>
>You might ask around. I used #4s from Cleaveland, which was a fine
>kit and
>good results. However, if I were to do it over I would use pop
>rivets. I
>have found no need to remove the tip in the first two years, 240
>hours. This
>seems to be a rare place where you could smooth out the seam wiht
>filler and
>cover the pop rivets at the same time. Most people use a wing tip
>light
>which allows access and with a landing light nearby, wing tips should
>be a
>fairly permanent installation.
>
>I suggest you ask others if they have had to remove the wing tip, and
>plan
>accordingly. You are still in a good position having spent little
>yet.
>
>Good Luck
>
>
>D Walsh
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel planner/steve davis |
>After hand-cutting gyro and instrument holes, I don't see how an NC machine
>can produce a "perfect cut". Anyone who has installed instruments lately
>will attest to the fact that the hole circles are not all on the same
>bolt-circle radii and that the holes are not all on 90 degree spacings.
In
>short, different manufacturers have slightly different layouts for
>ostensibly "standard" 3 1/8 or 2 1/4 instruments.
I did mine all by hand too and yes there is some variation in the radius of
the different instruments, but if you go with the largest radius for all of
them it will work and it doesn't look bad if the hole is a little oversized
for the faceplate. As for the mounting holes -- I did find some variation
but generally I made the holes a little oversized anyway which was enough to
make up for that. I do have one or two holes that I slightly elongated with
a small round file, but nothing the screw head doesn't cover up. I think CNC
machining would work but you will still probably have to use a file to tweak
it afterwards though.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (fairings, finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randallh(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Linings |
What brand are your brakes??? What size wheels? Once you know that you can
find out the part number from your Aircraft Spruce Catalog.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 8:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Linings
>
>What is the part # of brake linings that fit a 6A
>
>chet
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel planner software |
PETER,
man did you call the right guy, i'll be glad to show you my project , i
was looking for a ride in a gruman, call me or e-mail me with the dates your
coming down
scott reviere
206 n. armenia ave
tampa, fl 33609
813-932-3995 of
813-871-9050 home
813-879-0020 fax
813-927-1651 cell
ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM E-MAIL
IN THE PHONE BOOK
A-BAY A/C & HEATING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
-----Original Message-----
>Having flown several hundred hours now across the
>country, all VFR, it seems to me that sometimes when we are randomly
>picking a place to stay it would be nice to have an RV directory of
>builders who would possibly have some guests and pick their brain about
>building or even buck some rivets. I was actually in Pensacola before
>Sun-N-Fun and could have dropped in on Peter had I known. The realities of
>VFR cross-country flights mean that you will be spending time in say
>Hettinger, ND (two days, vis .2, ceiling 100'), or Poughkeepsie, NY(3 days,
>ground fog) with nothing much to do. I also had CC Brown rescue me in
>Laramie when one of my brake shoes died. He just happened to be at the
>airport and noticed my 270 degree right turns, and loaned me a caliper and
>shoe.(when his FAA inspection was but a week away!)
> If I produced a standard form everyone could fill it out and
eliminate
>the data entry aspect to publishing a directory. Maybe this has been
>brought up before? I have been off the list for a year or so. The idea of
>a directory for lodging, or parts, or even advice could come in very handy
>at times.
> Send me your comments, or perhaps better suggestions. kevin
Kevin,
For many years now I have belonged to the BMW Motorcycle Owners Association.
They publish a book every year with all members names as well as a code for
what they're willing to do, ie. emergency only, or lodging anytime etc. It's
quite useful as you're travelling around the country on a brand of
motorcycle without a dealer in every town.
I can see two ways to do this for RVs. One would be for Van's to coordinate
and publish it conventionally just like the BMWMOA since they have the
database of all RV owners. Then of course there would be some cost involved.
Another way would be for someone to publish it on a web site with a search
engine for the state or city. It would still require getting the database
from Van's and contacting the owners. Or maybe it could just be built based
on folks volunteering their names and contact info. The RV List alone would
reach a fairly wide audience.
Clearly someone would need to put some time into creating a structure, but a
GREAT idea that would really enhance the experience of cruising around the
country in our aircraft. If such a resource existed, which demonstrates an
even more active user community, it's the type of thing that would probably
be another influencing factor in folks selecting the RV over another type.
Perhaps Van's should give a serious look at this.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fuselage
Editor, Home Wing newsletter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hinge pins Vs screws |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>I have hinge pins on my RV-6 except across the bottom rear where I
>used #10
>pan head
>screws and nut plates, and #8 screws/backing plate back of the
>spinner. No
>problems in over 20 minutes of flying.
>
>:-) < rv grin
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
I hope everyone noticed the "20 minutes of flying" part.
I guess Randall is too humble (and likely too busy flying) to give a full
blown report that he has flown his RV-6.
I got to witness the event Sunday afternoon, but while he was still up
boring holes in the sky I had to get back over to the fly-in at Sunset.
Looked like all was going very well.
Chase plane was appropriately named in this instance... Randall has a new
O-360 with C.S. and the chase was Ken Scott in his 160 / Sensenich fixed
pitch, I don't know if he ever caught up to him.
Congrats!!! Randal (and wife Jeanne).
BTW... Randall had that typical "RV grin" on his face his face before he
even taxied out. I think he just couldn't help it. He has flown RV's
enough to "know" that what was about to happen was going to be fantastic!
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Shoulder Harness And Baggage Pods |
This is excellent technical info for the tandem builders who want to travel
with large items. This tells me that if you wanted to hang a luggage pod
from four points (make it six though with the middle two on a diaginal to
stiffen) you could very easily install extra wing tie down blocks (available
from Vans) that are ready made to take a 1/2 inch bolt. These blocks could
be bolted to fuselage bulkheads in the same manner as they are attached to
the wings.
Food for thought.
Norman
----- Original Message -----
From: Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 1999 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shoulder Harness And Baggage Pods
>
>
> Norman Hunger wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
>
> Having said
> > all of that, if you still want to hang it on you might be OK by going
with
> > large bolts for the overkill theory. Large aircraft grade bolts (1/2
inch or
> > bigger) should have enough tension rating to do the job if there was
four or
> > six attach points.
>
> A 1/2 inch aircraft grade bolt has a cross sectional area of about .196
> inches
> and a tensile strength of about 125,000 PSI, so a half inch bolt will
> support
> about 24,500 lbs before failing. A mere four of these will support
> close to
> 100000 lbs before failing. Using a safety factor of 100% and assuming 6
> G's,
> 4 half-inch bolts should support about 8000 lbs - Gee Norm, what are you
> gonna
> put in your baggage pod?
>
> Hope you don't mind a little good-natured kidding, Norm. I don't think
> there are
> any problems with using bolted fasteners in tension - the connecting rod
> bolts in
> our engines are in tension. Rivets are not quite as strong in tension
> as in
> shear - I seem to remember a difference of about 25%, but you can still
> make
> servicable joints. The riveted elevator hinge brackets in the RV are at
> least
> partially loaded in tension.
>
> I do think you have the right idea that the joints should be in shear,
> because
> that would be the most effective way to transfer the loads into the the
> skin
> and/or ribs of the aircraft.
>
> Regards,
> Blake Harral
> RV-4 N72RV 57 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "true(at)uswest.net |
by phnxpop1.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 6 Sep 1999 17":04:36.-0000(at)matronics.com
1999 08":15:44.-0000(at)matronics.com's message of Tue, 07 Sep 1999
Joe Waltz wrote:
>
> George True,
>
> Thanks for the post on the 8 louver panel for eng cooling. Now that you
> told us to get in touch with Don Christiansen can you tell us how to do
> that?
>
> Another TX guy with a big engine.
>
Joe,
Sorry I left that out. Don Christiansen's office phone number is 972-298-6174,
and he also has an answering service number at 214-521-4111. I don't have his
home phone number, but you could probably get it through the Texas RV wing of
Van's Air Force, I think they have a website.
The guy who's making the louvered panels is Don Ross, he's in Dallas, TX. His
daytime work number is 972-238-8999, and evening phone number is 214-327-7312.
George True, Phoenix AZ
true(at)uswest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 cooling ramp (was HELP) |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>While we're on the subject of temps and the cooling ramp, I have a
>confession to make. I got
>carried away "simplifying" the cooling ramp on my -8, and ended up
>cutting off the curved part that
>is supposed to wrap around to the front of the firewall. On the
>surface, the front curved part just
>looks like a good way to block the opening if you ever adjusted the
>cooling ramp downward to close
>it off. Since I didn't make my ramp adjustable, I figured I didn't
>need that part of it, or the
>extra holes in the firewall. Recently, I've been wondering if the
>curved part doesn't serve a much
>needed purpose to help smooth out (thus improve) the air that exits
>the cowling. With all this talk
>of high temps, I've ordered a new ramp, but I'm still not convinced
>that it's worth installing.
>FWIW, the answer I got from Van's was "you probably want something
>there".
>
>Does anyone know for a fact that the curvy part of the ramp is needed
>for cooling?
>
Can't say for sure because on the RV-8 no testing has been done to verify
what happens without it.
the velocity of the air exiting the cowl is high enough that when it has
to turn a sharp corner (particularly one that has the flange of a
firewall sticking out from it) it likely can trim the airflow.
I would recommend that you leave it in.
Just a side note...
I flew the RV-8A prototype to San Jose last thurs for an EAA chapter
event.
At cruise altitude (8500") and cruise power I was seeing fuel flow about
9 GPH, true airspeed about 200 MPH, CHT's spread between 291 deg. F. and
324 deg. F. (actually lower than ideal) and oil temp steady on 185 deg
F. (using one of the Vans Aircraft oil temp instruments that had just
been checked for accuracy 2 days prior).
This airplane has a standard 7 row stewart warner cooler mounted on the
left rear baffle.
I will be operating the airplane doing demo flights at the Copperstate
Fly-in in PHX again in October. I will take note of the temp #'s that
result (it is typically still near 100 deg, and sometimes even hotter
during this fly-in) and report them here.
We have had this airplane at copperstate two years previously and haven't
had any problems doing up and down demo flights in these temperatures.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marsman(at)flash.net |
| Subject: | Re: Chat Software loc fix |
On Sun Sep 5 12:08:21 1999, rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> I found on the web a new software that allows you to chat realtime in any
> location on the net. I think that Possibly it might be beneficial for
setting
> up a RV chatroom within Matronics. And best of all its FREE!
>
> http://www.hypernix.com/
>
> Matronics: http://www.matronics.com
> Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WesternAir(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder Stiffiners..14 or 16??? |
Just seem to be missing something here....my plans show 14 rudder
stiffiners...7 per side....George O's video shows 16 (8 per side)...variation
in plans?? Just curious....
Kurt..OKC
6A Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching HS-404 to Front HS Spar |
Matt, trim the 404 ribs to clear the 810 and 814. They attach with two
rivets in the center through the spar and 405 ribs. The 405 ribs attach
through the 810 and 814 as well. BTW, if you don't already have the Orndorff
videos, I really recommend them. I've rewound and watched the HS section
enough to just about wear it out. It doesn't tell you everything, but in
conjunction with the manual and the list archives, I'm about to figure it
out. Good luck.
Troy Black
-8 emp( ready to rivet skins to HS, finally)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
My apologies, Warren! Your original message stated that most GPS radios
were designed so that they needed an amplified antenna. I overlooked that
statement, probably based on my incorrect notions of how GPS receiver front
ends are designed. If the GPS receiver needs an amplified antenna, then you
are absolutely correct in stating that lock-in time and horizon acquisition
will be improved with your antenna.
Thanks for pointing out the errors in my message, and in a gentlemanly
manner to boot!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net>
Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS antennas
>
>Hello Dennis and all others that are interested in this subject,
>I respectively disagree with your statement about amplified antennas are
only
>designed for long coax runs. In the testing I have done using a non
amplified
>antenna and my amplified antenna I find that the amplified antenna DOES
provide
>for noticeably better signal strength of all satellite signals but
especially
>the satellites that are at the horizon. In all cases of use and tests, the
>amplified antenna DOES allow for faster lock on and fewer drop outs due to
the
>increased received signal strength.
>
>As far as placement of the antenna on the glare shield or outside on a top
>surface, it should make no difference, or very little difference, in an RV.
This
>is due to the very free view to the horizon no matter where you mount it.
If we
>were all building high wing aircraft it would. In that case I would
recommend
>the antenna to be mounted outside on top of the wing.
>
>If you do want to mount my antenna outside, that will work also. My antenna
is
>an environmentally sealed unit that mounts through the skin. Also my
antenna
>does not have the base mounting magnet in to to interfere with the compass
if
>you choose to mount it on the glare shield.
>
>Warren Gretz, N0FVG
>Gretz Aero
>3664 East Lake Drive
>Littleton, Colorado 80121
>303-770-3811
>
>Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net>
>> To: RV List
>> Date: Sunday, September 05, 1999 6:07 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: GPS antennas
>>
>> I think your antenna is a real bargain, Warren. However, an amplified
>> antenna merely serves to overcome the line loss in the coax ,and, in some
>> designs, impedance mismatch loss at the antenna. At GPS frequencies,
this
>> can amount to a couple of dB over a ten foot run, which is about all we
>> would ever encounter in an RV. The amplifier allows the use of a smaller
>> diameter, more lossy coax, which is easier to run, especially in the case
of
>> a handheld unit.
>> Lock-on time is a function of signal-to-noise ratio, and is not affected
>> significantly by an antenna amplifier.
>> Capture of satellites near the horizon is largely a function of field of
>> view. A glareshield mounted antenna is blanked by the rear skin
structure.
>> That is why IFR installations require an outside, top-of-skin mount.
>>
>> Dennis Persyk amateur radio N9DP 6A finishing kit
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Tip Up Canopy Gap Seal |
Norman - The P-strips go down the sides of the tip up canopy rails and the v
strip goes across the front. I found them packed inside the spinner in the
finish kit. I also found that you will need thicker seals at the forward ends of
the side rails to get a good seal. Closed cell foam works great. I used the foam
that is used to seal toppers to the box of 1/2 tons. Just cut it narrower to
fit.
Hope this helps.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> I've been looking amongst all of my bits and pieces and I can't find the
> exact rubber seal that the plans call for to seal the front edge of the tip
> up canopy. The top right corner of plan #35 shows a "V" shaped strip gap
> seal. I don't seem to have this. What I do have is a dark brown (60")
> teardrop shaped seal of about the same size and a white roll of two joined
> "P" shaped strips. Am I missing some thing or have the kits changed a
> little?
>
> Thank-you in advance,
> Norman Hunger
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Miraculous riveting aid - shin pad tape |
RV-Listers,
I suspect many of you may already use this stuff, or something
similar, but I only discovered the miraculous properties of hockey
shin pad tape recently.
An RV-4 builder took me under his wing when I was thinking about
building an RV-8. He let me drive a bunch of rivets in scrap, and
gave me a few tips. One of them was to put some masking tape on the
universal rivet set to help keep it on the rivet head. If it comes
off the rivet head it can really chew it up. I'm sure you know what
that looks like.
Well, I muddled along through the tail kit, and much of the wing kit,
never really being satisfied with the way my universal head rivets
turned out. They were often OK, but there were quite a few where the
rivet set moved and put marks in the manufactured head. I drilled
out a lot of rivets. Then I visited a local RV-8 builder, John
Perrin, and marvelled at the rivets that held his wing ribs to the
spars. They were perfect - not a mark on them. They looked exactly
the same as they did before driving them. I asked him how he did
that, and he replied "shin pad tape". Well, I couldn't see how just
changing to a different type of tape could make that much difference
- I figured he was just a black belt riveter. So, I muddled along
still using masking tape, and still messing up a lot of rivets.
Finally, several months later, I got frustrated after a particularly
unsuccessful session working on the seat ribs. I made a real mess of
a bunch of rivets. I went to the local Canadian Tire, bought some
hockey shin pad tape, and tried it. Well, I am a believer now. I
riveted the leading edge to the spar on one wing, which had scared me
to death, and the rivets came out beautifully. I drilled out the bad
rivets holding the seat ribs to the F806, and redid them. Perfect.
So, if you want AN470 rivet heads that will make other builders
drool, go get yourself some shin pad tape. It is sort of like a
thick clear packing tape, but quite flexible. Maybe packing tape
would do too - I haven't tried it.
I sure wish I had listened to John Perrin when he first told me this.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LH fuel tank & RH wing skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming (long) |
Just thoght I'd let you know how well I enjoyed your letter. I've wanted to
go for years, but it hasn't worked out yet. I hope to fly my RV-8n next year
out to it.
Good Luck John Bunn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Stiffeners..14 or 16??? |
>
>Just seem to be missing something here....my plans show 14 rudder
>stiffiners...7 per side....George O's video shows 16 (8 per side)...variation
>in plans?? Just curious....
>
> Kurt..OKC
>
You must be referring to the RV-6/8 Empennage video from George O.
It shows him building an RV-8 tail - the RV-8 rudder is a bit taller,
and has 8 stiffeners per side.
The RV-6 and RV-8 tails are quite similar in construction methods,
but some of the parts differ.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LH fuel tank & RH wing skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UHMW plastic |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy some UHMW plastic, 1/8 thick and wide?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A canopy almost done at last
>
There may be some good mail order places to get this stuff from. I just looked
under plastics in the yellow pages. The local place in town has it in stock.
Shoot me an e-mail if you are not having any luck finding what you need. They
stock the 1/8"th. stuff, my buddy just bought some to make the hatch slide
easier on his sailboat.
Dave Burton
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back seat heat |
How about a scat tube to the 804, where the pushrod goes through..... on the
other hand... if I keep eating like I have this summer, the back-seater
won't get cold feet, cause my butt will be sitting on them....
Dick White,
RV-8QB... taking lots of time making decisions
Newport,OR
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back seat heat
>
>
> >
> >What are the 8 & 4 guys doing about getting adequate heat to the back
> >seat. I don't want my wife's tootsies to get chilled.
>
>
> I'm going to just tell my wife about my plans for the next RV project
while
> we're flying. THAT outta keep her PLENTY warm.:)
> Seriously now, I can't see how I can run a scat hose back there without
> running it through the 804 bulkhead first...which I'm NOT going to do.
> Otherwise, it would have to go over it, and would look yucky. So, I'm just
> going to see how the heat box works as-is for both seats, and look at
> options later if necessary.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> windscreen fairing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UHMW plastic |
Steve, the number for US Plastics is 1-800-537-9724. They show UHMW sheet on
page 97 of my 1998 catalogue along with UHMW polyethelene tape.
Fran Malczynski
Olcott, NY
RV6 (fuse, out of jig)
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for UHMW plastic
>
>Steve,
>
>Try US Plastics. They have a big selection of UHMV Plastic.
>I don't have the 1 800 number here at work. Try the "Yellar Pages"
>
>Ed Cole
>RV6A Finish Kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
>To: Rv-List (E-mail)
>Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 1:20 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Source for UHMW plastic
>
>
>>
>>Hello Listers,
>>
>>Does anyone know where I can buy some UHMW plastic, 1/8 thick and wide?
>>
>>Steve Soule
>>Huntington, Vermont
>>RV-6A canopy almost done at last
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W-616 PUSH ROD |
Bob Pretzsch wrote:
>
>
> according to my notes those are from bag #412 and are labeled MSP-42.
>
> Bob Pretzsch
> finishing kit
> >
> >I am building the W-616 pushrod that connects the control sticks to the
> >aileron bellcranks. Plans say to use MD-42-BS pop rivets to rivet the
> >VA-111. Don't have any of these, have they been replaced with something
> >else???
> >
> >Jerry Calvert
> >Edmond Ok -6 wings
Thanks Bob. After there wasn't any response on the list(before yours),
I got out the aircraft books and did a little research and learned the
MSP-42 is basically the same rivet as the MD-42-BS, so I used them.
Your answer confirms it.
Thanks again,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 cooling ramp (was HELP) |
Scott:
Appreciate your post on the 8a numbers. They sound really good. Did you
notice what oil temp you had during climb out?
My 8a is getting closer to usable oil temps. We have modified the lower cowl
by cutting and bending down about 2", thus providing a better air outlet.
This has gotten oil temp down around 210, which is much better than before.
hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back seat heat |
>
>What are the 8 & 4 guys doing about getting adequate heat to the back
>seat. I don't want my wife's tootsies to get chilled.
Well, in the -4 her feet are getting the same heat you are. The electric
heaters look interesting.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Tip Up Canopy T-Handle |
Mine is the same way. I believe it is supposed to be perpendicular when
installed because the lever is offset slightly but 10 degrees is too much.
Mine is not quite perpendicular to the panel but I just left it that way
because its hardly noticable when installed looking (unless looking from the
top.) Install it both ways to see which way has the least offset.
Dave Beizer
RV6A Paint
Moreno Valley Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Baffle Cylinder Blockers |
Listers,
Previously, I installed the cylinder blocker in front of #1 to try to even
out CHTs. I had good temps in climb but #1 ran hotter than I would like in
cruise. Today I trimmed 1/2 inch from the top of the portion of the blocker
that is in front of the head. I did not alter the blocker in front of the
barrel. I don't have blockers in front of #2 and have my oil cooler mounted
on the bottom baffle in front of #2.
I think I will leave it this way. The temps are generally quite even now
and sometimes they are just about dead even. Another indication that things
are pretty good is that any of the four cylinders may be the hottest now,
under different circumstances. It is amazing what any change in speed or
power setting or mixture or angle of attack does to the relative
temperatures of the cylinders.
Today in cruise to Hobbs I was running about 395 F to 405 F. Oil temps were
about 195 F.If I reduced the power to cruise at only 155 knots or so the
temps were quite a bit lower. Guess I will have to wait till next year to
see what it does with the real high ambient temps, or go to Copperstate
maybe. We only hit about 92 or so today. I have my wheel pants off right
now and the temps seem to run significantly higher that way.
It was one of those real pretty days of flying over popcorn cu in the smooth
air then spiraling down through the breaks to land. Harold at Hobbs had his
red 450 Stearman out. He hadn't flown it in a couple of years and was
getting ready to start it for a ferry flight to get it annualed. He ask me
if I would sit in the cockpit while he propped it. "Well I guess so." Man,
you should have seen the smoke when that baby fired up. And it kept smoking
for a minute or two. Rumble, rumble, rumble. Neat!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
>
>I just read the post from Dave Lenonard under the subject of Lighting
>Q's and I have some comments.
>
>The Lorance GPS receiver uses a non amplified antenna only.
Huh. You are right. That surprised me.
>Nearly all
>other GPS manufactures have designed their receivers to use an amplified
>antenna that is powered by the receiver by the coax and the coax
>connection. The best antenna to use on an aircraft, by my way of
>thinking, is to use an amplified antenna. This will allow the receiver
>to lock on faster and maintain lock better by being able to receive more
>satellites at the horizon where they are more difficult to receive.
>
>The solution I propose to this problem is to use my antenna! (of course)
>It is an amplified antenna that can be used by ANY GPS receiver EXCEPT
>the Lorance units.
Have you tried doing phantom power for your antenna with a Lowrance
receiver? All it would take is a chip cap and a chip resistor with a
separate source of power for the antenna. This is built into most
receivers as you suggest but it shouldn't be too hard to duplicate that to
power an antenna.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
>I think your antenna is a real bargain, Warren. However, an amplified
>antenna merely serves to overcome the line loss in the coax ,and, in some
>designs, impedance mismatch loss at the antenna. At GPS frequencies, this
>can amount to a couple of dB over a ten foot run, which is about all we
>would ever encounter in an RV. The amplifier allows the use of a smaller
>diameter, more lossy coax, which is easier to run, especially in the case of
>a handheld unit.
>Lock-on time is a function of signal-to-noise ratio, and is not affected
>significantly by an antenna amplifier.
A good preamp at the antenna can reduce the system noise figure
substantially thus improving signal/noise ratio.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid hookup question |
I bit the financial bullet and bought a Navaid. The installation is going
well, but I can't seem to find any info on the pinout for my Magellan
Skyblazer XL. Does anyone know which are the necessary data lines to
interface with the Navaid?
I figured someone on the list has figured this out, and hopefully I won't
have to go through Magellan support hell.
Thanks!
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96
ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
I purchased the oxygen sensor from Jeggs speed shop that was discussed
on the list a few months ago. It was recommended in the discussions
that the sensor be put in the hottest EGT pipe. I have a 4 pipe system
and only 1 EGT. Can someone tell me which cylinder classically runs the
hottest on a 0-320 and a wood Sensenich?
I would also like a ball park distance from the flange to place the
sensor.
Thanks.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Randall Henderson first flight |
Just got back from Van's Homecoming and finished
reading all my RV-LIST messages. Did not see any
messages with the subject that I am using. Did I miss
something?
I was announced at Van's Sunday Banquet that Randall
Henderson of the RV-List made his first fight on
Sunday 5 Sept. 1999. I do not read all messages
posted to the list but found this in the ARCHIVES
under subject: RE:Hinge pins Vs screws.
In his message to the RV-LIST on Sept 5th he wrote:
No problems in over 20 minutes of flying.
:-) < rv grin
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
Congratulations Randall! The more you fly your RV,
the more you are going to like it.
BTW: My cowl is set up the same as your Randall and
after 420 hours still no problems.
Thanks Van for helping make so many peoples dream of
building, owning, and flying such a GREAT airplane
come true.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: It's Hell Gettin Older |
Progressive bifocal lenses. One persons experience......FWIW
After using progressive bifocal lenses for about 8 years I recently went back
to the lined bifocals. Gave my self a month with the new lense but did not
like them having learned to wear the progressive. They are different! Also,
after getting a new prescription about two years ago I had a really bad time
adjusting to the new lenses. Turns out the "seat spot" was not where it
should have been in the left lense. Very important they are fitted properly.
I like flying with them fine. However, building the 6A I have found you must
look straight down a "straight edge" or it may look curved to you when it is
not!
Dale Ensing
6A finishing wiring and stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | W-422 Tie Down Bracket |
I have a question about the W-422 tie-down bracket. Per DWG 20 there are two
holes drilled in this bracket near the bottom. One is on the very bottom and
goes thru the bracket and also thru the spar web. The next hole up goes thru
the bracket and also thru the stiffener. The drawing shows these holes at
1/2 inch centers. Has
anyone relocated the second hole farther away from the first? This seems
kinda close to me. So, would it hurt to add 1/8 inch to the second
measurement?
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Adrian Chick" <adrianchick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W-422 Tie Down Bracket |
Jim,
I didn't have any trouble (that I know of) by using the 1/2" distance
between the two bolts. That bracket's pretty thick you know. However, I
did have some trouble with the bolt that passes through the angle. The bolt
was too close to the radius of the angle, so I'll raise the hole up by 1/8"
on the right wing.
Adrian Chick
Nashville, TN
RV-6A wing stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 9:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: W-422 Tie Down Bracket
>
> I have a question about the W-422 tie-down bracket. Per DWG 20 there are
two
> holes drilled in this bracket near the bottom. One is on the very bottom
and
> goes thru the bracket and also thru the spar web. The next hole up goes
thru
> the bracket and also thru the stiffener. The drawing shows these holes at
> 1/2 inch centers. Has
> anyone relocated the second hole farther away from the first? This seems
> kinda close to me. So, would it hurt to add 1/8 inch to the second
> measurement?
> Jim Nice
> RV6A(Wings)
> WA State
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Whom of you has built an RV6/6A fuselage jig recently. I know of a person
wanting to unload a jig for free, but he is quite some distance from me. I
tabulated the gasoline bill to be about $85, and the drive is probably close
to eight hours one way.
Needless to say, this would add expense to the trip. So, what is the cost in
time and materials to build this jig? Anyone??
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electroair Ignition Systems |
May 06, 1999 - September 07, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gw