RV-Archive.digest.vol-gy
September 12, 1999 - September 20, 1999
> are out there. Maybe something can be done to use the fine work that
> they've already put into the supplemental instructions. (My many thanks to
> Frank Justice.)
I think this is a great idea. I'd be only too happy for Van to use my
pages to produce a new, better manual.
> Or maybe Van can provide a list of Web addresses in the
> instruction book as to where these "non-sanctioned", but helpful
> instructions can be found?
Better yet, why not put the entire manual on the Web? Including links to
other builders' pages?
Frank.
(Compiler of the "Bunny's Guide to RV Building"
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm>)
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Instrument panel support question (-6 slider) |
Listeners,
I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the
instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and
f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on the
angle so the panel can be removable.
I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the
f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel.
I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the top
flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and rivet
it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
It has become obvious that I shouldn't have listed my concerns about the
cost of the MERFI fly-in. I not only got myself in trouble but others that
agreed with me have felt the whiplash of that e-mail as well. While most
all of the whiplash has been generated by volunteers of that event or events
similar, I suspect there are people also agreeing that the cost of fly-ins are
getting out of hand. Oshkosh is a good example of that. I believe only time
will tell if I'm wrong about costs exceeding dedication.
While Mr. Gally paints a eloquent picture of EAA, I'm sure there are a lot
of us that remember why Paul had to step down from his throne. I believe it
was a board member in trouble that blew the whistle on him. That's when
we all found out one of the reasons why OUR fly-in cost so much and why
our dues kept climbing.
The MERFI fly-in is a great event and I plan to attend every year. I've
got friends over there and I'll pay whatever it takes to be there.
If I've hurt someone's feelings I'm terribly sorry. I hope I don't carry
enough weight to instill an opinion in someone else without their considering
all sides of an issue. I still believe the costs will eventually exceed
the dedication we all have toward EAA and EAA events.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
BTW: $7.00 is too much
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
Subject: | McCauley Spinner |
I have a O-360 A1F6D and a McCauley C/S prop from a 1977 Cardinal that
I'm installing in an RV6. Has anyone used this prop in a 6 ? I'm trying
to figure out if the spinner from a cardinal or something else would
work. The prop has no mounting bosses, so the spinner bulkhead has to
mount to the flywheel. I need to find out if the cardinal spinner is 13"
Dia, and starts 2.25" from the flywheel hub.
Chris Brooks
RV6
Murfreesboro, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Heating the workshop... |
Humidity is good in the winter. But you may not like the lint.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Safe to Fly? |
>
>>
>> ....
>> transportation-related accidents. Aviation accounted for 683 deaths,
>> with 621 of them in GA. Bicyclists, recreational boaters, and people
>> walking in front of trains notched 794, 808, and 831 fatalities,
>> respectively.
>>
>>
>> This came over on the AVflash this morning. More people walk in front of
>> trains than die in Airplanes.
>
>I tried the NTSB.GOV site looking for the source of this without success.
>Does anyone have a link to the specific data cited above?
No, but someone else has reported on this topic at:
http://www.aviationtoday.com/reports/safety.htm
and specifically the the second page at:
http://www.aviationtoday.com/reports/II.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
I'm looking for a GPS. If anyone has one for sale, let me know.
A Vu
N985VU
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Re: HS marking tool |
Hi Matt-
Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close
enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip
5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that
nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the
part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank
Matt Garrett wrote:
>
>
> On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom. Vans
> talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more like
> a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool.
>
> Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got a
> center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my flanges,
> but if I need to be using a different tool let me know.
>
> Thanks
>
> Matt
> RV6 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI $7.00 - A REPLY |
Jim,
Thanks for the post and let me at this time apologize to you for my less
than eloquent response. I really did just get home about an hour before I
wrote that and I was tired (and cranky) and just didn't want to read
something like that after my long but enjoyable weekend. (Sounds like a
Clinton excuse doesn't it?) I wanted to write you a direct e-mail and tell
you I meant the part about it not being personal but I didn't want to take
the chance of saying that wrong too. Anyway it has been bothering me all
day because I didn't want to alienate you and do want you to feel welcome
at MERFI. Tell you what, If you'll stay over next year, Saturday to Sunday
I'll pay for your camping and supply the camp equipment to. I'll feed you
and bring the beer so if you say you didn't get your money's worth then
we'll all know you really are a cheapskate! :-). As far as all the other
arguments going on about the volunteers and the costs, I think we should
just drop it for now because we all have a lot of emotions about it.
Although some people will pay $7 for a movie or lunch, A FLY-IN I guess
doesn't have the same entertainment value. It's really not worth arguing
about because we're not going to change any mind's either way. Really
looking forward to seeing you again....AL
PS...What kind of back seater do you fly with that doesn't offer to pick up
the
fly-in charges for you anyway??? I'd gladly pay you $14 for a few hours of
back seat -4 time and I'd buy the gas too! ;-)
>
>Al,
> I left your reply intact so everyone can read it again. I want you to
>know that I feel very humble, little and small after reading your reply.
> I not only feel regret for posting that E-mail but I intend to destroy
>my computer after I send this, just so I don't make that mistake again.
> I know it takes a lot of cash to put on a show and everyone that
>donates their time don't always get the thanks they deserve.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cyl or other troubles |
> I highly recommend Triad Aviation if you are in the market for new
>Lycoming parts.
Jerry,
I checked the yeller pages for an address but didn't find the listing. I
could have overlooked it. If you have a phone number or URL, I would
appreciate the post.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
RV6A
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
Subject: | Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic? |
Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end
of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to
implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the
goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure
on how you did it?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
Subject: | How to send mail to specific list?? |
Did I miss it? What is the address to send list mail to the RV4-List
group? Could it be rv4-list(at)matronics.com? Wanted to double check
before I hosed up bad.
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Safe to Fly? |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
>IT'S STILL SAFE TO FLY: Don't we all just love to tell nonpilot
>friends
>that other forms of transportation are more dangerous than airplanes?
>Here are the latest numbers, straight from the NTSB, to back you up.
>In
>1998 in the United States and its territories, 43,920 people died in
>transportation-related accidents. Aviation accounted for 683 deaths,
>with 621 of them in GA. Bicyclists, recreational boaters, and people
>walking in front of trains notched 794, 808, and 831 fatalities,
>respectively.
>
>
>This came over on the AVflash this morning. More people walk in front
>of
>trains than die in Airplanes.
>
>That'll raise some eyebrows at the next cocktail party.
>
>
I'm not one to shoot down good info regarding general and sport aviation
but...
When we look at data like this it must be looked at in the context of
what the ratio is between accidents and total # of events.
Far, far, far more people ride bicycles, ride in private boats, and walk
a crossed the street each day than take a flight in a general aviation
aircraft. And travel in automobiles or buses, etc., etc.,
The sad fact is traveling in a general aviation airplane likely is more
dangerous (statistically) than traveling in a car (or most of the other
modes of travel). If you compare it to flying commercially on the
airlines though... the airline is safer.
The key point I always try and educated people with is that a pilot
flying a general aviation airplane has an enormous amount of control over
whether he becomes part of the accident statistic record or not.
People in small aircraft are not killed by drunk drivers, the are not
killed by people running red lights or stop signs, or other drivers that
have fallen asleep. They are generally killed because of an action or
decision that they make (or fail to make).
Even the accident record of RV's would be totally different if it weren't
for the large # of accidents related to low level flying, buzz jobs, or
low aerobatics.
If we can all work hard to fly safe we can swing the accident statistics
even further (they have been improving over the last few years).
Maybe some day flying in a small aircraft really will be safer than
traveling on the ground.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Looking for GPS |
I have Apollo Precedus that I am not going to use in my new project. It is
almost new Asking
$ 575.00. If interested contact me off line.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Elevator Trim Tab
----- Original Message -----
From: <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 7:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for GPS
>
> I'm looking for a GPS. If anyone has one for sale, let me know.
>
> A Vu
> N985VU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | FlightComm Eclipses for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I have 2 sets of FlightComm Eclipse headsets for sale. They are 2 1/2 years
old and are in mint condition, used about a total of 130 hours, and upgraded
with the Oregon Aero earcups and additional insulation. Perfect working
condition, Both units for $200 plus shipping. Contact me off the list
(will be out of town until Fri). Upgrading to Lightspeed ANRs.
Thanks,
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred Hiatt <hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Hangar space in MSP for about 15 days...? |
Rick,
I have some hanger space in Airlake airport, about 20 miles south of MSP.
Fred Hiatt, hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Two MORE Email Lists at Matronics... |
I agree.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: HS marking tool |
mark, u not need that tool. i devised my own method of carefully holding a FINE
point maker in my fingers and slowly drew lines. i would reccomend a fine tip re
of what u use. it helps to be more exact and make sure u draw in the center of
rib-guess u know that. good luck, i have just finished hs so stay in touch via
e
mail if u like. bob paulovich in arkansas
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Hi Matt-
>
> Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close
> enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip
> 5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that
> nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the
> part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time!
>
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank
>
> Matt Garrett wrote:
> >
> >
> > On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom. Vans
> > talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more like
> > a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool.
> >
> > Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got a
> > center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my flanges,
> > but if I need to be using a different tool let me know.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Matt
> > RV6 tail
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI FLY-IN |
> I attended the Golden West fly-in this past weekend (sorry I missed you
>Brian; tried a couple of times but was always in the wrong place at the
>wrong time).
Darn. I would have liked to have met you too. I kept trying to get over
to the RV parking area but I kept getting snagged for other things. You
should have collared one of the orange-vested guys and asked them to call
me on their walkie-talkie. I would have made time.
>Attended all 3 days and drove 425 miles each way to get there.
Thank you for coming. Heck, I want to thank everyone from this list who
came. We busted our buns to give you a good fly-in.
>And it was worth the time and hassle.
Thanks! We need to hear that sort of thing.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Main battery cable size |
>Joe
>#2 copper is a whale of a cable. It will do the job no questions asked.
>Try Skycraft Parts in Orlando Florida (Inbound watts line, call information)
>they have the item with teflon insulation good up to about 600 deg. F. I
>paid less than $2 per foot for the stuff I got.
Check the wire for a part number stamped on it. Hopefully
it's Mil-W-22759 or M22759 wire which will be TEFZEL . . .
MUCH tougher than teflon.
>When you order it also order your braided bonding strap! I suspect the
>starter problem described earlier was due to a floating ground or poor
>ground in the system. Also don't overlook the expensive rubber engine
>mounts that you have installed. They work quite well for vibration
>isolation, but do not conduct electricity worth a flip. The engine must be
>grounded to the cage! (and the ground strap should be capable of carrying
>full starter current.
I encourage my readers not to use structure for any
ground returns other than incidental, low noise
accessories like nav lights, landing lights, pitot
heat, etc. Even the strobe power supply can ground
locally to airframe. The minus lead of the battery
likes to get it's own dedicated 5/16" brass bolt ground
right on the firewall where the bolt goes through a
forest-of-tabs ground block. Every device behind the
panel should ground to this block.
A braided strap runs from the engine side of this
brass bolt right to the crankcase. Don't install
bonding straps around the engine's shock-mount
biscuits. A single fat strap to the bolt is all that's
needed.
The forest-of-tabs ground blocks can be seen on our
website catalog along with custom braided ground
straps. For an airplane like a 'Fox or 'Star, a single
24 point block inside the cabin is sufficient. The
full up 48/24 kit we sell is for very complex airplanes
like a Lancair IV.
Keeping starter and alternator currents OFF the structure
will go a long way toward avoiding/eliminating future
noise and/or compass swinging problems.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: How to send mail to specific list??" (Sep 13, 6:44pm)
Subject: | Re: How to send mail to specific list?? |
>--------------
>
>Did I miss it? What is the address to send list mail to the RV4-List
>group? Could it be rv4-list(at)matronics.com? Wanted to double check
>before I hosed up bad.
>
>--
>--Scott--
>1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
>RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>--------------
Yes, sorry I forgot to mention that. Use the following syntax to send messages
to any of the new lists:
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI $7.00 - A REPLY |
Al,
My unemployed son that thinks someone is going to knock on his door
and give him a job of a lifetime.
Thanks for the kind words, you know I'll be back with bells on and next
time I hope I can stay more than 3 hours.
Jim
> PS...What kind of back seater do you fly with that doesn't offer to pick up
> the
> fly-in charges for you anyway
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <dave(at)davebarnhart.com> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI FLY-IN |
Mike Wills wrote:
>Hope to see some of you at Copperstate next month (driving 300 miles each
>way).
Come by Aircraft Registration and ask for Dave Barnhart.
Regarding MERFI:
I've never been to MERFI, so I don't know how it compares to Copperstate. I
*can* tell you that as an EAA member, admission to Copperstate will be
$7/day ($25 for a 4-day event pass).
Don't forget, after you park your airplane, you are a spectator too.
Please understand that I'm not flaming anyone, I just want to give you some
perspective of the 'other side of the fence'.
Some Copperstate trivia:
- NONE of us who put on Copperstate get paid a dime.
- We are REQUIRED to hire city Fire Dept employyes to act as paramedics.
- We are REQUIRED to buy a humungous insurance policy.
- We do not take a 'cut' from any of the food vendors
(and as a result I think our food prices are some
of the most reasonable I've seen)
- We pay a HUGE amount for those telephones you use.
- We pay a HUGE amount for the buses and drivers you use
to take you to-and-from your hotel (the $5 fare we charge
covers about one third of the cost).
Let's talk about that last one a bit, since I am very familiar with it:
The only people who use our hotel shuttles are: you guessed it. The folks
that fly in. The Rental Car agencies want $69/day for a Rental car (I know
that figure is correct because I personally saw the quote from the agency)
Whew!! So we do what we can to cater to your needs. A 47-passenger bus
with licensed, bonded, insured driver goes for $85/hr. A 15-passenger van
with same driver is $43/hr. So we spend several thousand dollars so *you*
can have a convienient, SAFE, way to get between the hotel and the fly-in.
Is $7 too much to ask for all that and more?
Last year a gentleman in the Ultralight area had a heart attack. If you
were at Copperstate, YOU saved that man's life because part of your $7 paid
for those paramedics.
When the whole event is over, we count the receipts and discover that we
have almost exactly the same amount as before we started. We break even.
So why do we do it year after year? We sure as hell don't do it for
ourselves. I'll tell you why *I* do it. I do it for the eighty year old
WWII vet who is so crippled up with arthritus that he can barely walk, but
wants to see the airplanes and relive old memories. Knowing that this may
be his last chance, I get somebody to cover my post while I borrow a golf
cart and give this guy a ride out see the airplanes he has been waiting all
year to see. I do it for the second WWII vet who shows me the photo of
himself in front of the P-38 he flew, and the wetness in his eyes when he
hears me say "Thank you Sir, for your service to our Country".
I do it for the ROTC cadet with stars in his eyes. I do it for the kid who
just returned from a Young Eagles ride and has that look in his eye that
tells me he is thinking that with just a little work, he could be a pilot too.
I do it for the spectators, so that they will understand that this magic we
call 'aviation' is not as out-of-reach as they thought, and maybe, just
maybe, if I can instill the magic in enough of them, this avocation I so
dearly love will stop dying a slow agonizing death.
And I do it for you, so that you can come together and enjoy the fellowship
and cameraderie that only a bunch of people who have built a living
breathing flying machine can share.
Each year when the event is over, I say, "That's it, I'm not doing that
again". But then I remember the look of gratitude on the face of that
eighty-year-old WWII vet (and the one on the face of his wife who loves her
husband so dearly that the only thing she wants is for her husband to have
this moment I have just made possible).
Yes, I'll be there again.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Van's Instructions |
Same here.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI FLY-IN |
Amen
----- Original Message -----
From: David A. Barnhart +ADw-dave+AEA-davebarnhart.com+AD4-
Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MERFI FLY-IN
+AD4- --+AD4- RV-List message posted by: +ACI-David A. Barnhart+ACI- +ADw-dave+AEA-davebarnhart.com+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4- Mike Wills wrote:
+AD4-
+AD4- +AD4-Hope to see some of you at Copperstate next month (driving 300 miles
each
+AD4- +AD4-way).
+AD4-
+AD4- Come by Aircraft Registration and ask for Dave Barnhart.
+AD4-
+AD4- Regarding MERFI:
+AD4-
+AD4- I've never been to MERFI, so I don't know how it compares to Copperstate.
I
+AD4- +ACo-can+ACo- tell you that as an EAA member, admission to Copperstate will
be
+AD4- +ACQ-7/day (+ACQ-25 for a 4-day event pass).
+AD4-
+AD4- Don't forget, after you park your airplane, you are a spectator too.
+AD4-
+AD4- Please understand that I'm not flaming anyone, I just want to give you
some
+AD4- perspective of the 'other side of the fence'.
+AD4-
+AD4- Some Copperstate trivia:
+AD4-
+AD4- - NONE of us who put on Copperstate get paid a dime.
+AD4- - We are REQUIRED to hire city Fire Dept employyes to act as paramedics.
+AD4- - We are REQUIRED to buy a humungous insurance policy.
+AD4- - We do not take a 'cut' from any of the food vendors
+AD4- (and as a result I think our food prices are some
+AD4- of the most reasonable I've seen)
+AD4- - We pay a HUGE amount for those telephones you use.
+AD4- - We pay a HUGE amount for the buses and drivers you use
+AD4- to take you to-and-from your hotel (the +ACQ-5 fare we charge
+AD4- covers about one third of the cost).
+AD4-
+AD4- Let's talk about that last one a bit, since I am very familiar with it:
+AD4- The only people who use our hotel shuttles are: you guessed it. The folks
+AD4- that fly in. The Rental Car agencies want +ACQ-69/day for a Rental car (I
know
+AD4- that figure is correct because I personally saw the quote from the agency)
+AD4- Whew+ACEAIQ- So we do what we can to cater to your needs. A 47-passenger
bus
+AD4- with licensed, bonded, insured driver goes for +ACQ-85/hr. A 15-passenger
van
+AD4- with same driver is +ACQ-43/hr. So we spend several thousand dollars so +ACo-you+ACo-
+AD4- can have a convienient, SAFE, way to get between the hotel and the fly-in.
+AD4-
+AD4- Is +ACQ-7 too much to ask for all that and more?
+AD4-
+AD4- Last year a gentleman in the Ultralight area had a heart attack. If you
+AD4- were at Copperstate, YOU saved that man's life because part of your +ACQ-7
paid
+AD4- for those paramedics.
+AD4-
+AD4- When the whole event is over, we count the receipts and discover that we
+AD4- have almost exactly the same amount as before we started. We break even.
+AD4-
+AD4- So why do we do it year after year? We sure as hell don't do it for
+AD4- ourselves. I'll tell you why +ACo-I+ACo- do it. I do it for the eighty
year old
+AD4- WWII vet who is so crippled up with arthritus that he can barely walk, but
+AD4- wants to see the airplanes and relive old memories. Knowing that this may
+AD4- be his last chance, I get somebody to cover my post while I borrow a golf
+AD4- cart and give this guy a ride out see the airplanes he has been waiting
all
+AD4- year to see. I do it for the second WWII vet who shows me the photo of
+AD4- himself in front of the P-38 he flew, and the wetness in his eyes when he
+AD4- hears me say +ACI-Thank you Sir, for your service to our Country+ACI-.
+AD4-
+AD4- I do it for the ROTC cadet with stars in his eyes. I do it for the kid
who
+AD4- just returned from a Young Eagles ride and has that look in his eye that
+AD4- tells me he is thinking that with just a little work, he could be a pilot
too.
+AD4-
+AD4- I do it for the spectators, so that they will understand that this magic
we
+AD4- call 'aviation' is not as out-of-reach as they thought, and maybe, just
+AD4- maybe, if I can instill the magic in enough of them, this avocation I so
+AD4- dearly love will stop dying a slow agonizing death.
+AD4-
+AD4- And I do it for you, so that you can come together and enjoy the
fellowship
+AD4- and cameraderie that only a bunch of people who have built a living
+AD4- breathing flying machine can share.
+AD4-
+AD4- Each year when the event is over, I say, +ACI-That's it, I'm not doing that
+AD4- again+ACI-. But then I remember the look of gratitude on the face of that
+AD4- eighty-year-old WWII vet (and the one on the face of his wife who loves
her
+AD4- husband so dearly that the only thing she wants is for her husband to have
+AD4- this moment I have just made possible).
+AD4-
+AD4- Yes, I'll be there again.
+AD4-
+AD4- Best Regards,
+AD4- Dave Barnhart
+AD4- RV-6 N601DB
+AD4- Flying
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bryon Maynard <bmaynar3(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | strobes and voltage |
I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on
my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the
strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and
back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation
when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would
drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument panel support question (-6 slider) |
Good plan, I jogged the top flange of those ribs to tuck under the
instrument panel angle.
Alex Peterson
----------
> Listeners,
> I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the
> instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and
> f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on
the
> angle so the panel can be removable.
> I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the
> f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel.
> I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the
top
> flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and
rivet
> it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach?
> Thanks,
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Heating the workshop... |
From: | Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com> |
You might consider a 220V electric heater. Mine easily heated up an
insulated 2-car garage to a comfortable working temperature through
several Colorado winters. About the size of an extra-large bread box, it
hangs on the wall over the workbench. It has a fan and an adjustable
thermostat. No fumes, no open flames. (I did turn the thing off when
working with anything flammable ). Getting 220 volts to my garage was
not a viable option so I made up a very heavy duty extension cord and
plugged it into the electric clothes dryer. No significant impact on the
electric bill.
Bob Hall,
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Instrument panel support question (-6 slider) |
<< > Listeners,
> I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the
> instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and
> f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on
the
> angle so the panel can be removable.
> I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the
> f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel.
> I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the
top
> flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and
rivet
> it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach?
> Thanks,
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy >>
This is exactly what I did. Worked fine.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: strobes and voltage |
>
>I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on
>my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the
>strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and
>back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation
>when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would
>drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong?
>
>
How well charged is your battery??
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)home.com
Seattle WA USA
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
Subject: | Re: HS marking tool |
Jon Paulovich wrote:
> mark, u not need that tool. i devised my own method of carefully holding a FINE
> point maker in my fingers and slowly drew lines. i would reccomend a fine tip
re
> of what u use. it helps to be more exact and make sure u draw in the center of
> rib-guess u know that.
Actually, I like to use a fairly broad tip (about 3/32" wide line) for
the rib
centrelines. There's a couple of reasons:
1. It's *much* easier to see.
2. It doesn't matter if you hit the *exact* centre of the rib... you
just want to avoid hitting near the edge.
3. If you can see half (or a quarter or an eighth) of the (fat) line,
you know which side of the rib to push to get it lined up. If you can't
see any of a (thin) line, you don't know which way to go. If the whole
hole is over the line, you know you're *exactly* centred (not that that
matters, but it sure feels good :-).
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Heating the workshop... |
Here's my solution:
For cold weather I use a 17,000 BTU propane heater. It will run for 20+
hours on the 20 pound tank and keeps my (insulated) two car garage pretty
warm until the outside temp gets below 35 degrees. These heaters are <$50 if
I recall correctly.
Colder than that, I add a 110 v portable heater. It also works well to keep
the garage warm once I have taken the chill off with the propane unit. In
this role will keep the garage nice and warm down to an outside temp of 50
degrees or so.
Finally, I cut into the plenum from my HVAC system and ran a duct to the
garage. I only open it up when it is really, really cold, OR when I want a
little air conditioning in the summer.
My workshop is bearable 95% of the year. 100 degree days are far worse than
getting a little cool in the winter.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank |
Thought I would pass on a hint to those who haven't installed the
aileron bellcrank yet. On Plans sheet 19a, it shows the bellcrank
centered between the 3/4 x 3/4 angles. An AN3-10 bolt will be used to
attach the control tube from the control stick to the bellcrank. Guess
what, if you have the bellcrank centered between the angles, the
threaded end of the bolt almost hits the lower 3/4 x 3/4 angle! Van's
suggests moving the bellcrank off-center towards the top skin so the
bolt will have better clearance. Take an AN3-10a bolt and try it out on
the plans and it is quite evident.
I was hooking up the control tube and found this out after the bellcrank
was centered with the spacers. Wish I would have noticed it before the
wing was skinned! Not that hard to redo through inspection hole, but
would have been easier if the skins weren't on.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Lycoming for sale |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Posting for a co-worker.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
1974 Lycoming 0-320 A2D
773.8 Hrs Since New
Currently running on an aircraft.
Asking $9500.00
503 - 357 - 6032
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: HS marking tool |
Buy Avery's marking tool. Best $6 you'll ever spend!!
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS marking tool
>
> Hi Matt-
>
> Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close
> enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip
> 5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that
> nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the
> part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time!
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank
>
> Matt Garrett wrote:
> >
> >
> > On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom.
Vans
> > talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more
like
> > a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool.
> >
> > Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got
a
> > center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my
flanges,
> > but if I need to be using a different tool let me know.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Matt
> > RV6 tail
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Copperstate Fly In |
Any builders planning on coming to Copperstate this year? I would like to
meet some of you that I have had the opportunity of knowing via the RV-List.
In the off times that you are not at the fly in, you are welcome to come by
and visit. Anyone up for an RV-Lister dinner or something Friday or
Saturday night?
Dave's words were right on, for those of you who have not been here. I have
had the opportunity to work the fly in myself (as the photographer) the past
two years, and have seen the enjoyment from another perspective.
Copperstate has a wonderful turn out of RV's and other very beautiful works
of art. The warbird display is also very impressive.
We would love to have you join us, flying or not!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
Subject: | Van's Directions |
The plans are useable, but...........
>
> Take a look at the plans that Frank Christen had for the Christen Eagle II
> twenty years ago. Outstanding!!! A manual for every kit, subdivided with
a
> general description of what the task is, description of new skills, an
> accurate list of parts need on the next section, tools needed and
> preaddressed cards to report back any errors or questions. Isometric
> pictures on every page. Change letters on every page, upgrades sent until
> you are done with that area. Small parts packaged in plastic boxes with
the
> part number for each part depicted in the lid of the box when you flipped
> the it open.
>
> Van's plans are useable but they could be much better. I think I learned
> just as much building the Eagle without all the guess work and wandering
> around the garage trying to figure out what Van meant. You still have to
do
> the work and use the tools, you just know that what you are doing is
RIGHT.
>
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Listers
Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it
is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions
are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly
not long enough. Cutting the forward end to lower the canopy to the roll bar
also shortens the total length. The forward end of my canopy is 4" from the
front edge of the canopy skin. The average distance is 1.5" to 3." I've
also had to raise the roll bar 1/4" to mate with the canopy.
For those of you preparing to do the tip up canopy, make an initial cut at
least 67+".I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No
Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut
off wheel. Took it slow, worked good.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB 60075 N46FC(reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank |
--- RV6BLDR wrote:
>
> Thought I would pass on a hint to those who haven't installed the
> aileron bellcrank yet.
Ye Gads!!
Thanks for mentioning this, Jerry!
My bellcranks are centered, but I haven't started skinning yet!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings rehung, looking for the box with the cleco pliars...
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tim underwood <undeee(at)netscape.net> |
Subject: | Need Input on So.Cal. Fields, (Moving From Reno) |
Can anyone give me input on user friendly fields in LA area. I completed and
have been flying my RV for a year now. Moving to LA for my next engineering
contract.
I am also considering hangars with apartments in them, so input on these types
of fields would also be nice.
Thanks, Tim Underwood RV-6 N843D, 210 mph cruise @ 8500 Density w/All stock
van's fiberglass.
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic? |
That sounds neat. I would also like to know about the trim tab.
Earl RV4 wannabee bout 2/3 done
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end
> of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to
> implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the
> goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure
> on how you did it?
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Subject: | wet vacuum pump plumbing |
Hello Listers,
I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil
separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The
oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather
outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I
used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the
separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes.
Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340
and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only
the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the
fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I
can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up,
but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some
unforeseen problems.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's instructions |
I for one am not comfortable with "Making it work". I totally agree that
the innovations Van's has made in his kits are great. However, I don't see
anything wrong with making it easier. Not all of us want to redesign the
wheel.
Dick White,
RV-8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: David A. Barnhart <dave(at)davebarnhart.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 5:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Van's instructions
>
> >I want Tab A to fit in
> >Slot B without having to bend tab A and cut slot B and rivet a tab C on
the
> >back because it needs to go into slot D a year later but I have no way of
> >knowing that unless I read the whole manaul ahead of time.
>
> And that illustrates my point exactly. Five years ago, you had to figure
> out from the plans that you had to *fabricate* Tab A and Slot B, but your
> building experience up to that point would have prepared you well for
that.
> The non-prepunched tail kits taught us to think like *builders*, not
> *assemblers*.
>
> Now with all the pre-punching and quick-building, that part of your
> education is missing, and you are unprepared for the fact that you need to
> think ahead about C and D before committing to A and B.
>
> In some ways, we were better off before the pre-puched and quick-build
kits
> came along.
>
> I'm not saying "life was better in the good old days...". I think every
> one of us with completed RVs has heard Ken Scott tell us "make it work" at
> least once. I'm just saying that I think we were better prepared to do
so.
>
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
> RV-6 N601DB
> Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Wingtip trimtab: |
In a message dated 9/14/99 8:25:00, e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
That sounds neat. I would also like to know about the trim tab.
Earl RV4 wannabee bout 2/3 done
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear
end
> of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to
> implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the
> goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure
> on how you did it?
>
Dean Hall did a wing tip trim tab on his RV-4 years ago and still has it
along with a myriad of other doo dads. I agree it really looks slick. He
said he thought he would need it to get it trimmed up before engaging his
autopilot. I got the impression that he felt it was not a real good thing,
and probably wouldn't recommend it. It is not as effective as you would
think, and is not necessary for most planes.
The simple bias spring sold by Van's on the other hand gets good reviews and
is cheap. I love it. Not sure it would work with an auto pilot servo though.
Also a trick on bent or warped wing tip trailing edges:
You can slit the trailing edge with your cut off wheel, then it will move up
or down about a quarter inch. Re glue and epoxy it and you are in business.
This is really useful in tweaking that last bit so the tips line up with the
ailerons, which should be lined up exactly with the wings, using the huge
templates.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Ground Systems was: Main battery cable size |
>The point here is that ALL of the metal in the airplane should be at the
>same potential. This includes wings, tail surfaces, ailerons, flaps, just
>whatever is made out of metal.
>
>There is a current AD note on the Beech King Air series to install ground
>straps on the rudder of the airplane. The reason for this is that static
>electricity would build up charges on the rudder and then discharge to the
>fuselage. In the process of doing this the hinges would become eroded.
>
>Now our little GStars are not in the same speed range, and will not be
>flying through the same kinds of weather, but the point here is that you do
>not want different parts of the airplane to be at different potentials.
>
>What Bob suggested earlier is a fine way to go about doing that, but I
>suspect it is a bit of overkill. In our case we have a bonding strap that
>runs from the engine to the cage to the wings to the vertical tail and to
>the horizontal tail. To accomplish this a #2 copper wire runs from one of
>the starter mounting bolts to the lower left side engine to cage mounting
>bolt. The negative pole of the battery is grounded to the cage using a #2
>copper wire to the bolt that secures the cage to the shell underneath the
>baggage compartment floor. Short pieces of braided strap ground the wings
>to the cage and one long strap runs from the bolt under the baggage
>compartment floor to the tail section of the airplane.
Were talking about two different issues here. The "bond-everything-
to-everything-else mania swept through the Ez crowd about 10 years
ago. These efforts are to elminate and/or reduce noises in radios
due to static build up on surface of aircraft that causes tiny
currents to flow in not-so-well connnected joints like control
surface hinges. I've yet to see any confirmed case where this
was useful on a homebuilt and I doubt that it's going to show up
on anything less than a Lancair or Glasair in the 200 kts range.
The DC POWER DISTRIBUTION ground system is another thing all together.
Here, we're trying to (1) reduce the resistance in the starter
cranking pathways to the lowest practical value, (2) avoid running
battery currents through structure . . . especially welded steel
where unwanted magnetization can take place, and (3) avoid the
fabrication of ground loops where alternator and/or battery
currents flowing in airframe can induce noises in other systems
not well thought out with respect to installation and grounding.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Biddle, Dave S." <DSBIDDLE(at)Norstan.com> |
For info on Copperstate, in Mesa Arizona, coming October 7-10, check out:
http://www.copperstate.org
Forums, Exhibitors (Vans will be there), Airshow, FREE Parking!, Lots of
planes to check out - warbirds, antiques, ultralights, homebuilts - (LOTs of
RV's). It is well worth the $7. If you can make it, you will not be
disappointed. I have been to both Copperstate & Oshkosh the last 2 years.
Copperstate is a great event. Scott McDaniels from Vans will be there. I for
one want to thank him personally for all his thoughtful input to this list.
See you there.
Dave Biddle
6A-QB N432DG
Canopy cutting / drilling done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Directions |
Rich,
In all fairness, Frank Christen was already a manufacturer/inventor of the
very successful piece
of equipment called the "Tempress Scribe " which was a device used
here in Silicon Valley to dice up semiconductor wafers into the individual
chips for assembly
into packages. This gave him the resources and experience to put together
such a complete package.
As Ken Scott of Van's says "This kit requires your active mental
participation"
or roughly translated....It's your aircraft, build it any way you want!
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Crosley <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Date: Monday, September 13, 1999 10:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Directions
>
>The plans are useable, but...........
>>
>> Take a look at the plans that Frank Christen had for the Christen Eagle
II
>> twenty years ago. Outstanding!!! A manual for every kit, subdivided with
>a
>> general description of what the task is, description of new skills, an
>> accurate list of parts need on the next section, tools needed and
>> preaddressed cards to report back any errors or questions. Isometric
>> pictures on every page. Change letters on every page, upgrades sent
until
>> you are done with that area. Small parts packaged in plastic boxes with
>the
>> part number for each part depicted in the lid of the box when you flipped
>> the it open.
>>
>> Van's plans are useable but they could be much better. I think I learned
>> just as much building the Eagle without all the guess work and wandering
>> around the garage trying to figure out what Van meant. You still have to
>do
>> the work and use the tools, you just know that what you are doing is
>RIGHT.
>>
>>
>> Rich Crosley
>> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)megsinet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Instructions |
Logistically not possible. Go look at the RVs out there and you won't find a
single one the same. In the abscence of a 'standard' RV, what should he pick
for inclusion into the instructions. Then there are the mad builders such as
myself that decide to add something like a heated pitot - should he include
instructions for that, too? What about all the possible avionics and power
combinations? C'mon, folks, his instructions for the basic airframe are
adequate, as hundreds of flying RVs attest. When you need some hand-holding
(and we all do), then turn to the RV-list or an A&P. I thought I knew a fair
bit about aircraft, but I've learned a lot by asking the necessary questions
since I've started this project.
PatK - RV-6A
Richard White wrote:
> Perhaps not all should be building an airplane, but they are... It seems to
> me to be a safety issue. If someone chooses to build an RV they ought to
> have every advantage available. If it takes a step by step manual, then so
> be it. I don't know of any way to screen potential builders. The manual
> needs to suit ALL experience level of builders.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I talked to Ken ?? (not Scott) at the Golden West Fly-in this past weekend.
He said that Van's is moving the entire operation to Aurora State. Anyone
know anything?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Subject: | wet vacuum pump plumbing |
Hello Listers,
I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil
separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The
oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather
outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I
used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the
separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes.
Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340
and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only
the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the
fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I
can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up,
but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some
unforeseen problems.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Subject: | wet vacuum pump plumbing |
Hello Listers,
I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil
separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The
oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather
outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I
used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the
separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes.
Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340
and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only
the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the
fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I
can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up,
but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some
unforeseen problems.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's moving |
I heard that they were moving there next spring, because of the need for
more space and a better airport.
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 9:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Van's moving
>
> I talked to Ken ?? (not Scott) at the Golden West Fly-in this past
weekend.
> He said that Van's is moving the entire operation to Aurora State. Anyone
> know anything?
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
> svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's moving |
i talked to doug gardener this week he just got back from van's and mentioned
them moving, maybe he can enlighten the list, whatcha say doug?
scott
over the flu
skinning fuse
watching hurricane floyd with my fingers crossed
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
Harbour Freight has a 9 dollar small die grinder. Best 9 bucks I've spent. There
are lots of cutting chores that any die grinder can help with. An electrical
version of a die grinder or just a BIG dremel tool is a ROTO-ZIP tool. Uses
cut-off disks and cuttting drills. A Very hi quality & very nice tool. Available
at Home Depo.
JusCash(at)aol.com on 09/14/99 03:17:19 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Canopy
Hello Listers
Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it
is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions
are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly
not long enough. Cutting the forward end to lower the canopy to the roll bar
also shortens the total length. The forward end of my canopy is 4" from the
front edge of the canopy skin. The average distance is 1.5" to 3." I've
also had to raise the roll bar 1/4" to mate with the canopy.
For those of you preparing to do the tip up canopy, make an initial cut at
least 67+".I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No
Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut
off wheel. Took it slow, worked good.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB 60075 N46FC(reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's moving |
I talked to Scott (can't remember his last name), from Van's, at the Golden
West Fly In this past weekend. He told me the reasons for the move are. The
need for more space, the combining of engineering/research with manufacturing
and a paved airstrip. It seems there are times when they can't fly the
airplanes of the grass when it is wet.
BTW is any one from the SF Bay Area planning to go to Copperstate?
Cash Copeland
RV6QB #60075 N46FC(reserved)
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks, have a RotoZip out in the truck. Didn't think to use it.
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: MERFI $7.00) |
>
>For info on Copperstate, in Mesa Arizona, coming October 7-10, check out:
>
>http://www.copperstate.org
>
>Forums, Exhibitors (Vans will be there), Airshow, FREE Parking!, Lots of
>planes to check out - warbirds, antiques, ultralights, homebuilts - (LOTs of
>RV's).
>See you there.
>
>
>Dave Biddle
>6A-QB N432DG
>Canopy cutting / drilling done
Might also mention the unofficial Vans banquet that happens at the Italian
restaurant right outside the airport gate on friday evening. Since its
unofficial some RVers dont hear about it. It has happened the last 4 years
so I assume its on again this year.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No
>Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut
>off wheel. Took it slow, worked good.
There is lots of info in the archives about canopy installation. One of the
often repeated warnings is to make sure to use a slow turning motor with
the cut-off disc that is provided to avoid heating the plexi too much. The
problem is that if the plexi melts stresses are introduced into it. I just
didnt want to risk it. I used my drill motor. It was slow going but there
was no melted plexi.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
><<< Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the
>rear end of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier
>to implement than cutting up an aileron ..
>
>And safer IMHO. I, too, would be very interested in hearing about the -4
>referenced above as I have been contemplating a "tip tab".
If you saw that at OSH, you probably saw Dean Hall's airplane. He had an
article on it in Sport Aviation (see archives) on his mods. In talking to
him, he said the one mod he would NOT do again was the wingtip trim tab: too
much work and weight for the desired effect. I have no tab and Suzie Q flys
hands off. I keep things in balance by switching tanks every half hour.
Van's spring and lever trim mechanism mounted on the stick is simple, light
and doesn't require you to hack up a part of the airplane that shows.
Just my own opinion...............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying FAST.................
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's Instructions |
Come on guys! If we had perfect instructions and parts made with 0.0001"
tolerances,
we would still make mistakes. It's the nature of the beast, and by the way,
it's what also
makes it so interesting. Another way to look at it- if it was so easy to do,
everyone would
be doing it, and we would all have to go off and find something more challenging
to do.
Sam Ray
80262
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
In a message dated 09/14/1999 9:36:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bbds(at)means.net writes:
<< Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the
rear end of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier
to implement than cutting up an aileron .. snip.... >>>
>>
I did the first flight and all of the flight testing on a RV6A with a trim
tab in the wing tip.
It was about two inches by six inches. It has no effect on trimming the
aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an
aireron trim tab drives the aireron.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 (n44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Instructions |
IMHO... I personally don't see anything wrong with making something better.
If Van can make his plans/instructions better, I think he ought to go for
it. It looks like a lot of people would appreciate it. Why not make a
great kit even greater?
Dick White
80636
----- Original Message -----
From: <str(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Instructions
>
>
> Come on guys! If we had perfect instructions and parts made with 0.0001"
> tolerances,
> we would still make mistakes. It's the nature of the beast, and by the
way,
> it's what also
> makes it so interesting. Another way to look at it- if it was so easy to
do,
> everyone would
> be doing it, and we would all have to go off and find something more
challenging
> to do.
>
> Sam Ray
> 80262
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
Subject: | RotoZip for fiberglass? |
Someone suggested using a RotoZip for cutting fiberglass. Has anyone had
good luck with this? I bought a RotoZip with the cowl in mind, and I must
say I was disappointed. I used the most versatile cutting bit and it did
*terrible*. It basically started stalling and burning about 1" into the
cut. So if anyone has had better luck than I, which bit did you use?
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cyl or other troubles |
>Jerry,
>I checked the yeller pages for an address but didn't find the listing. I
>could have overlooked it. If you have a phone number or URL, I would
>appreciate the post.
>
>Thanks,
>Wes Hays
>RV6A
>Rotan, TX
To all interested in Triad Aviation, the pertinent info is as follows:
Triad Aviation
3439 S. Aviation Drive
Burlington, North Carolina 27215
800-334-6437
Fax 336-227-1258
E-mail: triadavi(at)netpath.net
All of their parts are Lycoming products and come with all of the
appropriate documentation (FAA form 8130-3). You do need to have part
numbers if possible. Be sure to ask for Bonnie.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com> |
I have found that I don't have to trim the HS-606 at all as suggested by
the plans for the fiberglass part to fit in there. Anyone else not have to
trim?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
This trim tab I was talking about is only about 1" wide by the width of
the rear of the wingtip...hardly noticeable! I would think there
wouldn't be much weight or complication by using a MAC servo to run it.
I would rather trim it than switch tanks so often...I still get a bit
nervous switching in-flight and always do it when over a nice field or
highway. Just call me Captain Tuna, Chicken of the Skies :)
Thanks for the input, though...that is the very best part of these
lists!
scott
RV4 tailfeathers in hand
> Van's spring and lever trim mechanism mounted on the stick is simple, light
> and doesn't require you to hack up a part of the airplane that shows.
>
> Just my own opinion...............
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Flying FAST.................
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
Eh? How does an aileron raise or lower a wing by moving up or down?
Seems like if the "wingtip tab" was lowered it should force that wing up
and vice versa...but if it doesn't work I guess I don't need one! (May
not anyway as I plan to build everything perfect so it isn't required :O
)
Scott
DFaile(at)aol.com wrote:
>
It has no effect on trimming the
> aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an
> aireron trim tab drives the aireron.
>
> david faile, fairfield, ct
> mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
> eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
> christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
> rv6 (n44df) started
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 9/13/99 4:42:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
<< I have volunteered for the past two years at MERFI and have never had to
pay. Did
I miss something?
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio >>
No but maybe I did
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
Subject: | The most enjoyable part |
Hey Texas RV'ers;
I'm currently out there evaluating and looking for an RV to have as a little
brother to my A35 Beechcraft. How about giving me a brief rundown of the
most enjoyable part of your construction process. "Finishing" and "flying"
doesn't count. Thanks
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor |
I am about ready to install the Angle of Attack ports in the wing of my
RV-8A. Since the wings aren't closed yet, I can get at most any location to
install them, but the place that looks most convenient for future access in
the last bay of the wing, right behind my Duckworks landing light. (I have
one in each wing). The manufacturer of the AOA sensor suggests installing
the ports right in front of the main spar on an RV, which means that they
would be several inches back from the landing light lens.
The problem is that the landing light lens fits under the skin, and has a
small piece of weatherstripping under it, so it doesn't really flush up at
all with the skin. I have looked at other installations, and I think mine
is about as good as most.
My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar
from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the
plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it
flushes out on the outside?
Thanks for your thoughts!
Terry Watson
RV-8A wings - tanks and aoa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
RV'ers
Sorry about the last note to the Texas Rv'ers, I sent it out to the wrong
list! I'm not even getting the matronics mail anymore!
Thanks and Blue Skies.
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
The amount of roll authority of tab (or aileron) mounted on the fixed
structure is roughly proportional to the tab (or aileron) area, times
the angle of deflection, times the distance from the aircraft center
line. This tab would have an effectiveness that is a very tiny
fraction of what an aileron has. I suspect that this tab is simply
too small to have a noticeable affect.
Also, that area is probably pretty heavily affected by the wing tip
vortex, so maybe the airflow is too dirty to be of much use for this
purpose.
My advice - stick with Van's quick and dirty little spring. If you
have to have a moving tab, bite the bullet and put it in the aileron.
A small tab will move the aileron quite a bit, so its effectiveness
is much larger than a similarly sized tab on the fixed surface.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
>
>Eh? How does an aileron raise or lower a wing by moving up or down?
>Seems like if the "wingtip tab" was lowered it should force that wing up
>and vice versa...but if it doesn't work I guess I don't need one! (May
>not anyway as I plan to build everything perfect so it isn't required :O
>)
>
>Scott
>
>
>DFaile(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
> It has no effect on trimming the
>> aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an
>> aireron trim tab drives the aireron.
>>
>
> > david faile, fairfield, ct
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor |
I have seen at least one case where airflow was seemingly affected by
very small surface imperfections. We were doing flight testing on a
modified business jet, with a small radome under the forward
fuselage. We found an intermittent side to side yawing motion at
higher speeds. We thought we might have vortices that were coming
off the radome. So, we taped some pieces of yarn on with duct tape
to make some tufts, and went up with a chase aircraft and a video
camera. The side to side yawing motion had disappeared. We removed
the tufts, and the motion was back. Somehow duct tape and yarn was
changing the airflow.
Another aircraft I am familiar with has the stalling angle of attack
decrease significantly with a very small lip of protruding sealant on
the upper leading edge. Something small enough that you can feel, but
not see unless you look pretty closely.
So, my advice (worth what you paid for it) is to look hard for
another location if you can't make the lens flush. The airflow in
this area could be "poisoned" by the landing light.
My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you
decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns
out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of
destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it).
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
>
>I am about ready to install the Angle of Attack ports in the wing of my
>RV-8A. Since the wings aren't closed yet, I can get at most any location to
>install them, but the place that looks most convenient for future access in
>the last bay of the wing, right behind my Duckworks landing light. (I have
>one in each wing). The manufacturer of the AOA sensor suggests installing
>the ports right in front of the main spar on an RV, which means that they
>would be several inches back from the landing light lens.
>
>The problem is that the landing light lens fits under the skin, and has a
>small piece of weatherstripping under it, so it doesn't really flush up at
>all with the skin. I have looked at other installations, and I think mine
>is about as good as most.
>
>My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar
>from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the
>plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it
>flushes out on the outside?
>
>Thanks for your thoughts!
>
>Terry Watson
>RV-8A wings - tanks and aoa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor |
In a message dated 9/14/99 5:59:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcwatson(at)seanet.com writes:
<<
My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar
from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the
plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it
flushes out on the outside?
>>
I've given given some consideration to the AOA sensor location as well. Even
the slickest installation of the Duckworks landing light lens will probably
have some turbulent airflow behind it. With that in mind, I'm going to try
installing them just inboard (inch or two?)and opposite side of, the rib
closest to the landing light. Hopefully, this location will be far enough
away, spanwise, to eliminate turbulent airflow problems, yet still allow
internal access, through the rib lightening hole, with the Duckworks
lens/light assembly removed.
Doug Seward
-4. wings, landing light, AOA sensors
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RotoZip for fiberglass? |
Hi,
I bought a rotozip a couple of months ago for the same reason, to cut my
canopy in the future. I work on jap motorcycles and today I needed to cut
some Plexiglas on the bike. I tried the rorozip and cut it with no problem.
GREAT. You just need a steady hand or a guide.
hope this answers your question.
Bob Cornacchia
RV6 working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing lights |
>My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you
>decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns
>out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of
>destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it).
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Kevin,
My Duckworks lens also did not come out very well, and crazed around a few
holes. That's how I learned what cold temps do to plexi! So, I'm planning to
rivet a flange around the perimeter of the cutout in the wing, and then fit
a piece of polycarbonate face shield material. I checked the thickness of
the face shields offered in the Vallen Safety catalog, and most are .040".
So, it might work out OK if I can space the flange down a wee bit to allow
for the extra thickness of the lens. It seems that the standard Duckwork's
setup will really turbulate the airflow.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | making primer lines? |
I am replacing a leaky primer line on my 0-360. One side gets flared. no
problem. That's done.
The other end gets a ball and sleeve type fitting which is apparently soldered
on. I removed the fitting from the old line with a propane torch and cleaned it
up. The problem is that it won't fit over the new 1/8" line.
Question - Is it supposed to easily slide over the new line with a thin film of
solder inside? If so, I'll need to reduce the OD of the tube a bit. It will
still be a tight fit. Can you recommend a way to get the solder to flow inside
the fitting?
Or, does it need to be heat expanded to fit over the line and then shrink around
it when it cools?
Basic questions perhaps; but I've got to learn somehow.
Thanks,
Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Moen" <c.moen(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | RV Tail and Wing Jig Available in Maryland |
One Tail/Wing Jig available for its next home. This jig served me well in
producing a straight RV-8 tail and pair of wings. It consists of two steel
floor to ceiling jack posts, wood horizontal tail jig beam, steel fittings
and Avery tail mount kit. I figure I have $50 dollars in materials in it and
would offer it to the next owner for that.
I live in Chevy Chase, Maryland and may be contacted offline at
c.moen(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Getting close to the completion of my RV-6, so I have to sell one of my
other homebuilts, my Bede-4 N58266.
The engine is a Lycoming O360-A1F6D with 5 hours SMOH (869 hrs since
new).
I replaced the dual Bendix magneto with a Slick 4373 and a Electro Air
electronic
ignition.
Prop is a constant speed Hartzel with 63 hours SMOH.
All AD's on the engine and prop have been complied with.
Price $22,000
This would be a good airplane for someone who is a few years from
completing their RV (4,6 or 8), as it would give them something to fly
and keep current while they
are building. They can then install the engine and prop in their RV.
For additional information, please contact me off the list at:
tcastella(at)juno.com or phone me at (914) 227-8527
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (fuselage now out of jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cyl or other troubles |
> All of their parts are Lycoming products and come with all of the
> appropriate documentation (FAA form 8130-3). You do need to have part
> numbers if possible. Be sure to ask for Bonnie.
You must be getting a kick-back from Bonnie!
Thanks for telling me about AG-Flight in Bainbridge.
I took my first ride today, man was it rough the wind was blowing
about 20KTS and it was not down the runway.
The instructor seems to be just the right kind of person for the job.
I always wondered what a spin was like.....I don't any more.
I figured it would be some kind of terrifying manuver......not so.
I felt light in the seat and was looking up at the ground for a
moment or two but I was not un-easy about it, go figure.
Target date to fly the -4 Saturday the 25th.
I think I'll take off and fly it for about 2 hours then try to land,
that way if I wreck the thing I'll atleast have two hours in it.
Looks like I'll make T-ville in it, assuming I don't wreck it.
Craig
9.8 hours and climbing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Subject: | VM1000 and EC100 |
Hello Listers,
A few months ago I announced that Team Rocket had an OEM for VM1000 units and
the EC100 warning and cautionary system through Vision Microsystems. We were
offering these units at our OEM prices for a limited quantity. We have since
sold many of these units and many listers have taken advantage of this great
opportunity. Well, we have just a few VM1000s and EC100s left at our OEM
price. When they are gone, the price will go up. We will still offer them at
great prices, but not our OEM price.
Now, the last time that I announced opportunities to save a few hundred
bucks, it was not received well. This system may not be for everyone. I
personally think that it is one of the finer systems on the market and have
purchased one for my Rocket. So, if you are interested, call me at
561-748-2429. If you are not interested...hit the delete key. This deal is
just for those who love aviation and like great prices.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
See our catalog at www.matronics.com/rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: making primer lines? |
>
>
>
>The other end gets a ball and sleeve type fitting which is apparently
soldered
>on. I removed the fitting from the old line with a propane torch and
cleaned it
>up. The problem is that it won't fit over the new 1/8" line.
>
>Question - Is it supposed to easily slide over the new line with a thin
film of
>solder inside? If so, I'll need to reduce the OD of the tube a bit. It will
>still be a tight fit. Can you recommend a way to get the solder to flow
inside
>the fitting?
>
Andy,
A new fitting (no solder) slides easily over the line assuming the line is
deburred after cutting. If there is too much solder inside your old fitting
I would think it natural that it would not fit.
It takes a lot of heat to silver solder these fittings on, like an acytelene
(without oxygen) torch. I imagine if you go ahead and apply enough heat to
the fitting you will be able to get it to go on. I found the fitting needed
to be very red before the silver solder would flow.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Subject: | Copperstate Dash |
Any RV'er going to run in the copperstate race???
Our local EAA Chapter will be helping for the first time. So far, they have
been keeping us in the dark as to our duties.
Anyway, as a builder, I will try to be of help to any RV'ers. Sorry, I
don't have a place for you to stay. Will try to help with transportation
to and from the airport and hotel.
E-mail me directly at tg1965(at)linkline.com
Tom Gummo
panel, cowling, engine, and gear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rich Doyon" <rich_rv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Van's Instruction |
I'm not in the 'problem areas' as I'm still building my empennage, but I
personnaly finds the instructions adequate so far. Sure thing, the format is
somewhat heavy as it looks like a book, but the plans are OK. For working
with the "10% of the tech pub" in the aviation industry, I can tell you
that's one thing I don't want to see in my garage!!! It would sound
wonderful to some to have some step by step holding hands instructions and
other visual aids (what bout the Orndoff's video??? I got them and they're
great!), but it's quite cumbersome for every day work in fact. I don't look
forward either to a 1000+ pages manual for the empenage... The main strike
against such format of detailled instructions, would simply be that it's a
'frozen' format. Once you got a sequence set in concrete (don't get me
started on cost of maintenance and configuration control!), it's hard to
customize it to accomodate every builder's ways of doing things, or simply
allow enough leeway in it for a builder to install something of his own, or
even fully understand what he's trying to do. If you can't picture it in
your head just by looking at what's already available, a dummy proof set of
instructions will get you nowhere further. We tried it, and it work great on
guys that had a day or two of experience on the shop floor. Anything above
that, and it actaully slowed them down as they had more to read, and
surprisingly enough, it didn't improve the quality 'across the board' as the
supporters of the idea thought it would. On the other hand, it DID improve
some areas that were known as to be problematic (refer to 'supplemental
instructions'). Now back with more simplistic instructions, things got back
to 'normal', with the exception of specific places.
Now, from the list, there seem to be some concerns on particular areas of
the building process, but oh surprise, these come along with solutions
(local group newsletter, Justice's instructions, tribal knowledge, etc...).
Sure, Van's could (and surely will!) improve some of his instructions and/or
drawings. But don't get too detailled either. While some revised
instructions for the canopy or things like that will receive a warm welcome,
a major overall is not required. Like my father says, you're never really
stuck in life, it's simply a little longer sometimes. Anyhow, it would take
the 'fun' out of building a RV! :)
Rich,
-6A, empennage still somewhere in a box.
just got in Wichita, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | RV6A mechanical fuel pump drain |
Listers,
How are you 6A builders routing your mechanical fuel pump drain hose? My
initial idea was to route rubber fuel line from the bulbed, 45 degree, 1/4
fitting I put in the drain hole on the mech. pump, across the firewall
(with appropriate support) and down to the gascolator bracket which we put
on the right side of the firewall. In this way, we could use the hole cut
in the bottom cowl for both checking the gascolator and the exit for the
fuel drain. I would transition from the rubber hose to a short length of
1/4" o.d. aluminum tubing to exit the hole. I would solidly attach the 1/4
tubing to the side of the gascolator bracket. The only downside to this
method is it seems that possibly the hole would have to be a bit larger as
you do need to fit in a fuel sampler on the gascolator.
The other possibility would be to solidly mount the tubing on the center
line of the firewall and possibly bend a 90 degree in aluminum tubing and
point the tubing down the center line of the bottom of the fuselage. Of
course, this would place the exit between the ends of the exhaust pipes.
If the end of the 1/4 tubing were to extend a couple of inches aft of the
firewall, I thought it might be better in the remote chance of a broken
mech. fuel pump diaphram. This mounting arrangement would possibly make
removal and installation of the bottom cowl a bit easier.
Any other ideas? Gee, it was a lot easier on the six---just run it down
the gear leg.
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lycoming for sale |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Updated message to include times to call
-
>
>1974 Lycoming 0-320 A2D
>
>773.8 Hrs Since New
>
>Currently running on an aircraft.
>
>Asking $9500.00
>
>503 - 357 - 6032
>Please call evenings (pacific time) or weekends.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab, etc |
>I would rather trim it than switch tanks so often...I still get a bit
>nervous switching in-flight and always do it when over a nice field or
>highway. Just call me Captain Tuna, Chicken of the Skies :)
I like switching tanks every 30 minutes for several reasons. Keeps the
airplane in trim; makes me aware of how much time I've been in the air and
how much fuel I have burned. At the same time I write down in my little
flight log EGT/CHT, oil temp, IAS, TAS etc. Helps me keep track of stuff
while I fly. I usually just keep the log on cross country flights, but
always switch tanks every 30 minutes. Compulsive? You bet. Just how I like
to fly. Been doing it for years, never had an engine quit switching tanks.
But I, too, look for the field to flop down in if the fan stops after the
switch. But then I am USUALLY looking for that field..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape |
Hello RVers: This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic? |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the
>rear end
>of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to
>implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the
>goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a
>procedure
>on how you did it?
>
I don't know who's it was, but I can tell you it doesn't work.
A normal trim tab drives a control surface which then does the trimming.
This type of trim tab normally doesn't have enough trimming power to even
be noticable.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Copperstate Fly In |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>Any builders planning on coming to Copperstate this year? I would
>like to
>meet some of you that I have had the opportunity of knowing via the
>RV-List.
>In the off times that you are not at the fly in, you are welcome to
>come by
>and visit. Anyone up for an RV-Lister dinner or something Friday or
>Saturday night?
>
The Fifth(?) annual Copperstate RV get together is on friday night (Oct
8)
at the Cosmo's Italian resturant just outside of the airport.
For more info ask for Marv or Maxin Horn at the Young Eagles booth at the
fly-in.
See you there
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape For Aircraft |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip trim tab |
>Does anybody know of a way to bend the glass tip instead? If that can be
>done, it could be also be a substitute for pinching/pounding the aileron
>trailing edge... the pounding part especially sort of runs against my
>grain.
Maybe if you think about it a little it won't seem so bad. Ideally you just
want both ailerons to be straight, i.e. a flat surface all the way back to
the trailing edge. If you are flying with a "puffy" aileron, it will make
for a heavy wing but also be less efficient, so why try to correct for it
with some other means instead of fixing it?
Pinching (with fingers if its just a but off, with hand seamers if its more)
is just what it takes to get it this way, or if it's overbent, pounding can
take it out but that's harder. I had some success with sticking a round
shaft in the end and pulling it against the inside if the radius in an area
that was overbent near the end.
Jerry VanGrunsven coached me on this -- he came over and said "don't tell
me, let me guess" then laid a straight edge at several places on the
ailerons and promptly declared "they're both pretty puffy, but the left
one's more so, so your right wing is heavy, right?" Sure enough it was
(damned heavy in fact). I went ahead and went up and down BOTH ailerons with
the hand seamers and got the surfaces as straight as I could (without making
the radius too small of course). After that, no more heavy wing. Fantastic!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: The most enjoyable part |
one of the most enjoyable parts about building the RV6A is the people you
meet, the expert advice from others that have completed theres and are
flying, the help and friendship developed The Chapter members (19) that go
out of their way to lend support, manual and emotional when it is needed.
Tonight I was honored to host the monthly meeting at my home where my RV6A is
being built in my backyard work shop. It was great to have about 30 members
attend the meeting to hear of ther porjects and to showoff mine. with
about 14 projects being built in Lubbock ranging from tiney two, cozy , RVs
Spencer air car , classair, lancair , there is a wealth of information and
all are willing to share there time and knowledge with you if you jusk ask.
The sharing of tools ideas.extra parts, experiences ,including frustrations
excitement and the eventual thrill of others completing and flying , knowing
you had a part in their challenge is almost as rewarding as completing your
project. Had a real great time tonight.
Terry Cole
N 468 TC (reserved) starting canopy soon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: The most enjoyable part |
TColeE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> one of the most enjoyable parts about building the RV6A is the people you
> meet, the expert advice from others that have completed theres and are
> flying, the help and friendship developed The Chapter members (19) that go
> out of their way to lend support, manual and emotional when it is needed.
> Tonight I was honored to host the monthly meeting at my home where my RV6A is
> being built in my backyard work shop. It was great to have about 30 members
> attend the meeting to hear of ther porjects and to showoff mine. with
> about 14 projects being built in Lubbock ranging from tiney two, cozy , RVs
> Spencer air car , classair, lancair , there is a wealth of information and
> all are willing to share there time and knowledge with you if you jusk ask.
> The sharing of tools ideas.extra parts, experiences ,including frustrations
> excitement and the eventual thrill of others completing and flying , knowing
> you had a part in their challenge is almost as rewarding as completing your
> project. Had a real great time tonight.
> Terry Cole
> N 468 TC (reserved) starting canopy soon
>
> Terry, your absolutely right!!! This is what's it about. It has nothing to do
> with our income, the size of our house---but the lives we touch along the
> way!!!
Enjoy, Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com> |
Subject: | Leading Edge Skin Gap |
Help, please. I started drilling my leading edge skins last night, and I
started on the top side (with a perfect butt-splice between the leading edge
and top main skins) and worked my way over the leading edge to the bottom
side. But as I neared the bottom main skins, I realized that I will have a
significant gap between the leading edge skins and the bottom main skins, on
the order of 1/16" to 3/32". Some of this (about 1/32) is due to the fact
that the main skins somehow got drilled a little below the 1" line, but I'm
still short on the skin side. The skins appear to hug the ribs nicely and
all is square (including the rib flanges). It seems a little late to redo
all the drilling, so my question is really what to do about the gap. Can
this get filled in with bondo or equivalent? Does this imply an error so
profound as to justify starting all over with new leading edge skins? I'm
getting all stressed out here.
Also, one other question about sequencing again. Once I complete the
riveting on the leading edge section, how do I put in the bolts that mount
the ribs to the spar? The rivets are pulled, so that's OK, but how do I
access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them properly?
I know what you all are thinking: you think this is hard, wait until you
start on the tanks. To be sure, I'm nervous about that too. Thanks for
your help.
Peter Christensen
RV-6A Wings
Pittsburgh, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
For those of you who come after me.
I trimmed my canopy a half-inch at a time until it fit. I did not trust the
overall length mentioned in the manual. I did not have to raise or lower my
roll bar. I used my air drill for all cutting. I chucked the cutting wheel
that comes with the finishing kit and turned the pressure regulator up to 90
pounds indicated. It worked just fine.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Hello Listers
Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it
was easy, and it
is. Cutting is not the problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>> I think the only place that wire size is an issue is the high amp
>> portion of the system & then only because the large wire gets
>> stiff & hard to route. This applies to systems with batteries in
>> the fuselage, etc. On the other hand, all new airplanes are going
>> to 28v systems, as far as I can tell.
Most of all "new" airplanes have been 28v for decades, the
type certificiated ones that is. The trend was started
when Cessna observed that buying one kind of thing in one
voltage version only was less expensive than buying the
same thing in two versions. Even the lowly C-150 went to
28v. It had almost nothing to do with weight since all of
the 28v hardware with the exception of wire was the same weight
as the 14v stuff. It was 95% driven by purchasing economics.
Many of my readers building big Glasairs and Lancairs would
LIKE to go 14V but their engine came with EXPENSIVE 28V
alternators and starters installed. EVERY voltage sensitive
part they have to purchase is uniquely "aircraft" which
will never be priced according to consumer driven economics
nor will they experience the product improvements we enjoy
in an unregulated, free market atmosphere . . .
>> . . . . This will surely affect the
>> future availability of avionics for replacements & etc. Remember,
>> the avionics manufacturers can pack more "stuff" on 28v boards than
>> they can 14v boards & can create smaller packages for transmitters.
The differences in electro-goodies between voltages is trivial
to none. The major drivers of volume and weight have to do more
with packaging and human interface aspects. A transmitter, for
example, can be quite tiny except for the need to get heat out
of it. While a 28v transmitter may be a couple of percent
more efficient than its 14v cousin, it's by only a very few
percent . . . given that the output stages have similar
efficiencies and output power, their size doesn't materially
change with voltage. BTW, most small signal stuff in avionics
needs to run a voltages much below 14v . . . this is good and
bad . . . it allows for power conditioning to take all the noises
and perturbations off DC power before it's applied to sensitive
electronics . . . it also drives up parts count and volume
of the system without much effect on its overall efficiency.
>> The only items from the auto industry are the alternator & the
>> battery & perhaps some lights.
. . . . and relays, electronic controlled fuel injection
systems, ignition systems, fuel pumps, blowers and fans,
contactors, and most important LOW COST SEALED GAS RECOMBINANT
LEAD ACID BATTERIES.
. . . . .The voltage regulator is now mostly
>> in the alternator. 28v alternators & batteries cost about twice as
>> much. Even the emergency starting issue is perhaps not such a big
>> deal as batteries can be hooked in series, even while in autos.
>> This would require two autos, however. This is all about a dead
>> heat right now, it seems to me, but don't forget that it is very
>> easy to step down voltage for lights & etc.,
. . . not really. It's the same problem for lights as it is for
radios . . . power conditioning of some type between the
bus and the working parts of the product. More parts count
and less efficiency. Your nav lights are the most energy
consuming system on the airplane . . . while a starter takes
a lot of POWER for 5 seconds (200A X 11V X 5S = 11K watt-seconds)
the nav lights are 6A X 14V X 7200S = 604K watt-seconds for
a two hour flight). Having a 30% efficient starter isn't nearly
as bad as having an 80% efficient lighting system when you
start tallying up the ENERGY budget required to utilize each
system.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Grounding question... |
>I have already run a #2 ground wire from my battery to the cage of my
>Glastar and intended to use the cage as the rest of the ground pathway
>for the alternator and starter, specifically and for the rest of the
>equipment generally.
You're not doing anything different that a few tens of thousands
of production airplanes have done for decades with no perceived
problems. The reason we suggest alternatives to tradition is
based on the numbers of airplanes I've rented over the years
that have ground system influences that would only surface if
you were looking for them.
From time to time, somebody will write to one of lists with
a noise problem or a magnetic effects problem induced by
choices in system architecture.
>You suggested that a #2 cable be run right to the
>firewall for this purpose. My question: if I ran a #2 cable from the
>ground cable already installed at the rear of the cage, using a proper
>connector, to the firewall, would this be as good as a single cable as
>far as magnetic influences etc.
If you want to lower the probability of future difficulties,
you run a single conductor from battery (-) to firewall
ground stud and disconnect the conductor that goes to
airframe at the battery's mounting location. The battery (-)
wire should follow the same path as the (+) wire for as
far as is practical.
Drive ahead with what you have and see how it works out. I hesitate
to recommend any kind of rework when the system is not unlike
a whole lot of airplanes already flying. My recommendations
for ground system architecture are based on the best we know
how to do today and are guaranteed to eliminate probability
of some kinds of problems in the future and results in a quieter
electrical system. What you have now may well perform to your
expectations.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Silverstein, Chuck" <chuck.silverstein(at)LMCO.COM> |
Subject: | RotoZip for fiberglass? |
FWIW Dremel makes an adapter kit that includes a base and a couple of cutter
drill bit for about $15.00. Very much like a small Rotozip. Have been
practicing cutting plexi before I tackle the canopy.
RV6 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6ARC(at)aol.com [mailto:RV6ARC(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RotoZip for fiberglass?
Hi,
I bought a rotozip a couple of months ago for the same reason, to cut my
canopy in the future. I work on jap motorcycles and today I needed to cut
some Plexiglas on the bike. I tried the rorozip and cut it with no problem.
GREAT. You just need a steady hand or a guide.
hope this answers your question.
Bob Cornacchia
RV6 working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV6A mechanical fuel pump drain |
In a message dated 9/14/99 23:06:16, bskinner(at)vcn.com writes:
<< Any other ideas? Gee, it was a lot easier on the six---just run it down
the gear leg.
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
>>
Bob I have been very happy with my installation. In retrospect I think I
stumbled on a good solution. I used clear plastic tube but any should work.
Ran it to the right side and along the bottom cowl line to a point near the
outboard edge on the right side. I drilled a hole with the unibit which was
a force fit for the plastic line. It then protrudes into the slipstream
about a quarter inch. You insert the tube through the hole when you install
the bottom cowl. If you forget until later, you can reach in through the
oil check door to push it through the bottom cowl floor. Easy to inspect,
service replace, etc. Try it you'll like it.
D. Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap |
Peter,
>Help, please.
>I'm getting all stressed out here.
Don't get stressed. It's on the bottom. 1/16 to 3/32 isn't too bad.
Keep building. Use your new experience to get your next one closer.
Be sure that your LE is strait/plumb. (tooling holes & level. Like
in the manual)
>Also, how do I put in the bolts that mount the ribs to the spar?
>how do I access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them?
Through the lightning holes. It's not hard.
Probably the nuts will be on the main skin side of the spar.
>wait until you start on the tanks. I'm nervous about that too.
Don't be. They're not too bad. A little messier. Just one more thing
you think is going to be hard, that turns out to be just one more task
completed.
Have fun. Keep building.
Don't get stressed until you do the canopy!! (just kidding... :))
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Vans Instructions |
I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent. I
started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be
presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were
11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things
much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the instructions
back then too.
But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the
same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When
you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and
another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most
popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price,
preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of
paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to become
easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their
projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look for
the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives.
Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I
am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to,
but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van
an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and
possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor
instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider
what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say to
you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV flying.
You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV will
give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built
with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!!
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Grounding question... |
From: John @AAMR/AirCore
We're back.
There is a method that is proven and easy to do for grounding your system
once you've run your ground wire to the fire wall stud. It's called a block
and can be found at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page24.html or go to
our main index at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page45.html and click on
section #6.
If you have any questions there is an E mail link on all our pages
Regards,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light) |
>
>So, my advice (worth what you paid for it) is to look hard for
>another location if you can't make the lens flush. The airflow in
>this area could be "poisoned" by the landing light.
>
>My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you
>decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns
>out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of
>destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it).
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
>
I looked at both Proprietary Systems and LRI AOA indicators when strolling
through the exhibitors area at Golden West this past weekend. I really
wasnt planning on getting either one, just window shopping. Well Ive
decided to buy an LRI and chose them for several reasons.
They offer both analog and digital (LEDs) displays. If you choose digital
you have a choice of a round instrument that fits a standard 2.25 hole or
there is a new option of a long narrow display which will be available soon
(I think the dimensions were .75 X 4.00).
The LRI uses a probe very similar to the Piper blade style pitot many
folks are using. I plan to install the probe in the same location/opposite
wing as my Piper pitot. The LRI probe puts the required ports for the
instrument away from the wing in clean air. Discontinuities in the wing
surface are not a problem for the LRI probe. There is an option available
for probe heat for those who would fly IFR.
The digital instruments are extremely easy to calibrate. Bring the
airplane up to the verge of stall and push a button.
The guys at LRI offer good price discounts to RVers. There have been a
number of group buys via the list several times in the past. The digital
unit was cheaper than the low end unit that Proprietary Systems sells and
IMHO provides a better display.
These guys are also on the RV list so if I have any of this wrong Im sure
they will jump in and correct me. And if you have other questions about
their products just post to the list and Im sure youll get an answer.
If there are any advocates of the Proprietary Systems design who know of
some advantage of their system that they feel makes it superior to the LRI
please let me know. Whatever you choose, Ive been convinced that AOA is
something I want in my airplane. There have been several recent accidents
in the RV community that appear to be stall/spin related. AOA is cheap
insurance.
Mike Wills
RV4 canopy (and re-figuring instrument placement in my panel)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vans Instructions |
Well done Ken, I could not have expressed my feelings any better and I
agree wholeheartedly with you on this subject. Sure the books could be
improved, but lets be honest, RV kits have the best bang for the buck that
you can get on the market today. Perseverance while building only makes
flying an RV that much more enjoyable.
To anyone who has doubt about how great RV's are, get someone to give you a
ride, then you will see for yourself. I spent 7 years building my airplane
and believe me, after that first flight, I knew that it was worth it. Rv's
are great airplane.
Marc Guay
RV-6A Flying since Sept 98 (120 hours)
C-FWUV Ottawa Canada
>From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Vans Instructions
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:39:23 -0700
>
>
>I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent.
>I
>started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be
>presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were
>11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things
>much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the
>instructions
>back then too.
>But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the
>same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When
>you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and
>another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most
>popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price,
>preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of
>paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to
>become
>easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their
>projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look
>for
>the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives.
>Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I
>am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to,
>but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van
>an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and
>possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor
>instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider
>what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say
>to
>you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV
>flying.
>You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV
>will
>give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built
>with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!!
>
>Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332
>Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Silverstein, Chuck" <chuck.silverstein(at)LMCO.COM> |
Subject: | Vans Instructions |
I don't really want to get in this food fight, but enough is enough!
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Hoshowski [mailto:ve7fp(at)jetstream.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 12:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Vans Instructions
I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent. I
started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be
presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were
11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things
much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the instructions
back then too.
But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the
same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When
you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and
another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most
popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price,
preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of
paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to become
easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their
projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look for
the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives.
Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I
am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to,
but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van
an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and
possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor
instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider
what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say to
you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV flying.
You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV will
give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built
with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!!
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Air Flow Performace |
I' have been using Air Flow performance for the past five years and i have
nothing but good thing to say about their equipment. It is very easy to
install and very reliable. I have about eight hundred hours on mine including
one trip to South America if you need any more information call me at
800-582-3125. Claudio RV4 Purple Pasion
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Grounding question... |
In a message dated 9/15/99 7:06:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> aeroelectric.com>
>
>
> >I have already run a #2 ground wire from my battery to the cage of my
> >Glastar and intended to use the cage as the rest of the ground pathway
> >for the alternator and starter, specifically and for the rest of the
> >equipment generally.
>
> You're not doing anything different that a few tens of thousands
> of production airplanes have done for decades with no perceived
> problems. The reason we suggest alternatives to tradition is
> based on the numbers of airplanes I've rented over the years
> that have ground system influences that would only surface if
> you were looking for them.
>
> From time to time, somebody will write to one of lists with
> a noise problem or a magnetic effects problem induced by
> choices in system architecture.
>
> >You suggested that a #2 cable be run right to the
> >firewall for this purpose. My question: if I ran a #2 cable from the
> >ground cable already installed at the rear of the cage, using a proper
> >connector, to the firewall, would this be as good as a single cable as
> >far as magnetic influences etc.
>
> If you want to lower the probability of future difficulties,
> you run a single conductor from battery (-) to firewall
> ground stud and disconnect the conductor that goes to
> airframe at the battery's mounting location. The battery (-)
> wire should follow the same path as the (+) wire for as
> far as is practical.
>
> Drive ahead with what you have and see how it works out. I hesitate
> to recommend any kind of rework when the system is not unlike
> a whole lot of airplanes already flying. My recommendations
> for ground system architecture are based on the best we know
> how to do today and are guaranteed to eliminate probability
> of some kinds of problems in the future and results in a quieter
> electrical system. What you have now may well perform to your
> expectations.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
From: John @AAMR/AirCore
We're back.
There is a method that is proven and easy to do for grounding your system
once you've run your ground wire to the fire wall stud. It's called a block
and can be found at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page24.html or go to
our main index at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page45.html and click on
section #6.
If you have any questions there is an E mail link on all our pages
Regards,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light) |
RE: LANDING LITE LENS
TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN AND
SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE, MAKE A CHEAP WOOD BLOCK THE SHAPE OF THE
AIRFOIL AND DRAPE THE DROOPY LEXAN AROUND IT AND LET IT COOL. THIS PROCEDURE
WORKED WHEN I WAS RACING CARS AND SHOULD WORK WITH THE LANDING LIGHT LENS IF
YOU ARE USING THE VAN"S WING MOUNT LITE.
BILL BRUTON
RV-8 TAIL FEATHERS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | lexan landing light lenses |
>TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN AND
>SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE, MAKE A CHEAP WOOD BLOCK THE SHAPE OF THE
>AIRFOIL AND DRAPE THE DROOPY LEXAN AROUND IT AND LET IT COOL.
I made my landing light lenses out of 1/16" lexan and you don't have to make a
wooden block. Just heat it with a hair dryer on high heat (I used my wife's
1500 watt blow dryer) and bend it with your hands. Use gloves because it gets
hot enough to be uncomfortable. It took 2-3 minutes of continuous heat and hand
pressure to form my lenses. They look great and I have a total of $21 invested
in both landing lights. (The framework is made from scrap aluminum, and the 3"
reflector and 100 watt H-3 halogen bulb are from JC Whitney.)
Danny Kight
kightd(at)basf.com
Anderson, SC
EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep.
Sonerai IILT (350 hours)
RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, CS prop (trimming and drilling the canopy, and waiting for
my engine from Bart)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Where is all this SPAM coming from.....AAMR and now dental ads....damm!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | AOA sensor - LRI or AOA either one |
Mike,
I can run a group RV buy on the LRI units anytime I can get a few guys
together to buy them. I hope you are getting the RV price. You should be
because Bill and Jim are great guys and honest too. If I can add one more
thing to what you mentioned. The LRI system is completely separate from
your pitot system. Because of this it may be a good idea to get the heater
probe *just in case* you ever accidentally get into ice. You will still be
able to use your LRI on approach even of your pitot is iced or plugged.
(Could happen if you use those small unimproved strips). We all agree that
you should have something for AOA whether it's Proprietary Software Systems
or the LRI. If you don't have a stall warning device you should have either
one of these. Now that's just an opinion so please don't start any flame
wars. AL
PS: Did you see Bruce Bohanan used an LRI unit on his new Time-To-Climb
record setting RV derived airplane??
>
> These guys are also on the RV list so if I have any of this wrong Im sure
>they will jump in and correct me. And if you have other questions about
>their products just post to the list and Im sure youll get an answer.
> If there are any advocates of the Proprietary Systems design who know of
>some advantage of their system that they feel makes it superior to the LRI
>please let me know. Whatever you choose, Ive been convinced that AOA is
>something I want in my airplane. There have been several recent accidents
>in the RV community that appear to be stall/spin related. AOA is cheap
>insurance.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV4 canopy (and re-figuring instrument placement in my panel)
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light) |
Bill,
Thanks for the note. The problem is not the shape of the landing light
lens -- it actually fits fine -- it is that it fits under the skin rather
than flush with it. So even if the fit is perfectly, it is still recessed
the thickness of the skin plus the weatherstripping. It doesn't look bad,
but I am worried about the disturbance to the air flow as noted by Kevin
Horton and others, so I think I'll put the AOA ports in the next bay
inboard.
Thanks for your comment, if it was directed at me.
Terry Watson
RV-8A wings
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bbrut55(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light)
>
> TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN
AND
> SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE
snip
> BILL BRUTON
> RV-8 TAIL FEATHERS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | canopy release- another option |
Hi all,
There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the canopy on an
RV-8, and the only
option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the roller assemblies
attach to the
canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then unlatch the canopy
and push it up
into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that it requires
a number of
operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of control aircraft.
In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the
top of the canopy
rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd
want to position
these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It
would look something
like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you
opened it. What do
you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of
pulling the pins?
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Static air pickup |
From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hi Guys, question regarding the routing and material used for static air
source. Is it necessary to use flexible tubing or can I use a plastic
type tubing? Also is the size important? Thanks, David RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Hyde <dhyde(at)sstar.com> |
Subject: | Re: It's Hell Gettin Older |
I, too got dizzy with lineless bifocals, and soon switched to the lined
kind with no further problems.
I now have three pairs of bifocals: A "normal" clear set of lined ones I
use for flying or driving at night (or watching TV or movies), a "flying"
set of dark lined ones with the "near" window set a little farther than
normal so that it focuses on the instrument panel, and my "computer"
glasses, which are lineless, and set to focus from 1' to 10'.
The "flying" glasses idea I got from a 747 driver who went one better than
I did. He sat in his cockpit wearing an old pair of glasses, looked out
the windshield, and then used a magic marker to draw a line on the glasses
that lined up with the top of the instrument panel. He then measured the
distance from his nose to the panel. He then went to the optician and said
"make the little window where the line is and make it focus this far".
With this setup, your eyes can actually focus from outside to the panel and
back faster than they did when you still had normal accomodation.
I love my computer glasses for their purpose, I can stare at computer
screens without needing to crane my neck, I can hold PC boards up almost
under my nose and focus on them, and I can look up to see my boss standing
across the room. CAUTION -- they are downright dangerous in the cockpit or
behind the wheel, I can almost see, but not quite.
>
>>
>>I am seeking advice in regards to glasses. I have taken a pair of
>>"progressive" bifocals(no line) for use, with the understanding that if I am
>>not completely satisfied I can return them within 60 days for identical
>>frames with the lined bifocal lenses. The question is this. How long
>should
>>it take to get used to these glasses?
>
>I've been using progressive lenses for about 6 months, and for my extensive
>computer work, they're the greatest thing since sliced bread. I'll never
>go back to bifocals for computer work. However, flying is a different
>story. I find that the distortion outside of the "correct" focus zone
>makes them unsuitable for cockpit use. The problem is that you have to
>point your nose *exactly* at the object you wish to focus on. Loss of
>focus on peripheral objects is no big deal, but straight lines curve
>outside the focus zone. Which contributes to your dizziness (which will go
>away after, for me, about a week or so).
>
>WRT your medical, not to worry. My family physician is an AME and pilot,
>and uses (and knows I use) the progressive lenses. There's no prohibition
>against them, as long as they don't hinder your vision.
>
>Long and short of it: keep them for the full 60 days before you decide.
>But keep your bifocals handy (or go to tri-focals) when flying, IMO.
>
>And remember, getting older beats the hell out of the alternative! :-)
>J.C. Hassall
>jhassall(at)blacksburg.net
>RV-6 Builder Wannabe
>Blacksburg VA
>"The essence of character is doing what's right,
> even when nobody's looking." -- J.C. Watts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
I'm ordering a couple of new connecting rods for my engine... Here's the
lesson that cost me $250, but is free to you... (By the way, I'm at the point
on my project where another $250 almost doesn't matter. If you are not at
that point, you'll get there someday.)
Back to the story..
After getting all of the components for my engine reworked by various
certified shops, I was advised by a local aero engine guru to take the rods,
pistons, etc to a local speed shop (one he has used before) for balancing,
since mine will be an experimental engine. I did.
When I went to pick the parts up, the shop owner said the only things he had
to machine were a couple of the rods which were heavy on the "small" end.
Looking at the parts, I could tell they had been machined down well under the
size of the small ends on the other rods. Also, there were some noticable
scratches in the "wrong" places. This bothered me.
After thinking on it for a while, I called Lycoming and Aircraft Specialty
Services for the specs. Guess what?? The small ends on both rods were
below tolerance. The manager at the speed shop said "Sorry, but he wasn't
aware of a spec". Unfortunately, he's right. I, on the other hand, should
have known better....
In the end, I'd bet the rods would hold up just fine until TBO. I'd bet
money, that is. Not my hide. Decision made.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: EAA & Cost of flyins |
From: | michael d hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
> Mr. Gally,
> If my recollection is right. Every aviation magazine except
> Sport
> Aviation carried the story about Paul and his excess spending, gifts
> of
> EAA restored airplanes to his friends and misuse of EAA funds.
>
I have to admit I agree with Jim and Jim about EAA, it's "First Family",
and Airventure (oh, how I hate that name!), but only to a point. I feel I
get my money's worth for my dues because the mag is good and this also
buys me an influential voice against our over-zealous FAA. However, I
have never given to any of the other entities attached to EAA (EAA
Foundation, etc) because I feel they have more than enough money to
support these with all the other fundraising they do. I go to Oshkosh
(it'll always be Oshkosh to me!) for a few days each year and they do put
on a real show.
I agree it's a bummer but for now I'll just put up with it and give 'em
as little of my hard-earned cash as possible.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 (into that last 10% that takes 90% of the time)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | Heating garage via plenum |
Hello,
The return plenum runs through my garage. Would be curious to know how
much heat/aircon you get from taping into yours as I am contemplating doing
the same.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 wings
Moscow, Idaho USA
At 08:11 PM 9/13/99 , you wrote:
>Finally, I cut into the plenum from my HVAC system and ran a duct to the
>garage. I only open it up when it is really, really cold, OR when I want a
>little air conditioning in the summer.
>
>
>KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap |
Peter,
You idiot!! Only joking Mate, if this is all you have to worry about you are
doing fine. Don't stress I do enough for everyone!!
The gap is on the bottom side, so I can't see a problem. I mean, really, who's
going to know about your gap, when it is finished. You've got to look at the
big picture. I don't know what you would fill it with, but someone will
hopefully reply to you.
The fuel tanks really aren't that bad, just more messy. So don't stress about
them. I was really worried about them, when I did mine, so I got two helpers
just in case I needed a hand.
The bolts and nuts are done up reaching through the lightning holes. Don't
forget to torque them up.
Chris RV6 Fuse
Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Heating garage via plenum |
<< Hello,
The return plenum runs through my garage. Would be curious to know how
much heat/aircon you get from taping into yours as I am contemplating doing
the same.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 wings
Moscow, Idaho USA >>
Actually, I tapped into the high pressure side, not the return plenum. I have
an 8" duct essentially straight off the blower. I get a lot of airflow, and
it definitley makes a difference. However, it is subject to my HVAC system
cycling on and off, so it really isn't my primary source of heat. (Though it
is my ONLY source of cold air). Also, the heating system in my house
generates warm air, not hot air, so if i leave the vent to the workshop open
all the time, the shop will stay fairly warm in cold months. However, I only
open the vent up when I get home, and there just isnt' enough heat in the air
to quickly warm a cold-soaked shop. That's where the propane heater comes in.
Finally, I must point out that I live in Atlanta, GA, so conditions are very
different than in the tundra of Idaho :-).
Tailwinds,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
Subject: | NEED AVERY C-FRAME |
All,
I want to buy a used Avery C-Frame tool. Somebody should have one...
Jason Baker
RV-4 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Attach |
Hello List!
Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING
first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46
that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main
rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the
root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in
Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and
found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other
rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment.
Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of
root rib and install nutplates?
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans
issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
>
>Hi all,
>
>There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the
>canopy on an RV-8, and the only
>option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the
>roller assemblies attach to the
>canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then
>unlatch the canopy and push it up
>into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that
>it requires a number of
>operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of
>control aircraft.
>
>In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch
>out of the top of the canopy
>rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing
>that you'd want to position
>these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the
>rollers. It would look something
>like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
>
>Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and
>push up as you opened it. What do
>you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other
>method of pulling the pins?
>
>Russell Duffy
Russell,
It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is
whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it
on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | Piper type heated pitot mast |
Dear Listers,
In the past, I have noticed a number of posts regarding the various
alternate types of pitot mast and also where to locate them. So since I
now have over 50 hours on my RV8 and have varified the performance of my
installation, I thought I would pass the info on to other builders who may
be in the decision stage (during wing construction).
I obtained a standard Piper pitot blade type mast with internal heating
element. It appears that there is only one size and type, however I am not
certain of this. They do however, all appear to be the same size. I have
now determined that after extensive speed tests that my installation is
accurate within a few miles per hour at all speeds from 60 thru 220 mph.
The installation is quite simple. I located the pitot mast outboard of STA
81 1/4 in the left wing. It is located with the center of the mast (not
the base) 2 3/8 inches outboard of STA 81 1/4 and 3 inches aft of the line
formed between the leading edge skin and the aft bottom wing skin. I
rivited in a 032 doubler that is 2 inches larger than the pitot base. I
also ran both pitot and static lines through the wing to the fuselage and
the airspeed indicator. I did not use vans fuselage type of static port.
Why did I locate it here? I looked at other airplanes (mostly pipers)
and tried to copy their installations, but mostly I just got lucky.
Note: I ran aluminum tube in the wing and "LeGris" polyurethane tube and
fittings through fuselage to instrument. If I were doing it again, I would
use "LeGris" polyurethane tube in the wing also. It is much easier to use
and ultra tough. Also comes in colors. I used clear for pitot and black
for static.
For those of you who may wish to use LeGris tubing and fittings etc. you
will find it at industrial supply houses that specialize in hydraulic hose
and liquid transmission equipment. The hose and fittings are also
excellent for vacuum lines and vent lines. They all feature reusuable
quick disconnect fittings and far exceed aviation specifications.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124 flying at last
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach |
Dear Mark,
I had to do the same thing. Since I had one of the first kits, I assumed
it was oversight. I would think that Van would have corrected this by now.
Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124 flying at last
----------
> From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Root Fairing Attach
> Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 10:25 PM
>
>
> Hello List!
>
> Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING
> first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46
> that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main
> rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the
> root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in
> Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and
> found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other
> rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment.
>
> Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of
> root rib and install nutplates?
>
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans
> issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | RV8 paint schemes |
Dear listers,
I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes.
I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
black and white picture of the scheme that I like. It featured a 2 color
scheme that looked like a leading edge of a dark color and the color went
from the fuselage out to ab out 12 to 18 inches from the tip and then
angled back to the trailing edge and wing tip. The rest of the wing was a
light color. The fuselage featured a light upper color with a dark color
beginning just aft of the wing on the bottom of the fuselage and curving up
to about the center of the fuselage and then extending aft to the rear of
the fuselage. I don't remember or couldn't see any fine details. If any
of you, know who owns this airplane or where I can Buy,Beg or Borrow a
color picture, I would appreciate this information.
Thank You.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
Flying at last
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach |
There is a conflict in the plans regarding this (Van chewed us out for this
one a couple years ago in an RVator, saying we need to read the plans; I
confirmed that indeed the plans conflict). Anyway, I stuffed the nutplates
between the 1.25" spaced rivets.
Alex Peterson
---
> Hello List!
>
> Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING
> first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46
> that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main
> rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the
> root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in
> Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and
> found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other
> rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment.
>
> Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of
> root rib and install nutplates?
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans
> issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach |
>Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of
>root rib and install nutplates?
Mark,
You don't say which plane you're building. If it's a -6, then you should
have some overlapping skin on the tanks to do the nutplates INBOARD of the
tank rib flanges. The wings themselves you'll leave out every other rivet
(or even just every third, or fourth -- you don't really need that many
screws in the fairing). No problem on the wings anyway just drilling out the
rivets if you did miss this and put them in, like probably 90% of us have
done... :-}
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
RVers,
We weighed "Gillette Charlie's" (for those new to the list, a builder I'm
helping build a 6A) RV6A a couple of days ago. He has a O-320 160 hp with
a Hartzell constant speed and Woodward governor (from Van's) on his
un-painted, no gyro 6A with sliding canopy. It weighed in at 1040 lbs with
interior and 8 quarts of oil. I expect an increase of 25 to 30 lbs. when
the aircraft is painted. (The paint job on my six weighed 30 lbs.)
We won't make it to Burlington this year as we hope to have the aircraft
inspected on Sept. 26th. So, with paint, his 6A will weigh less than my
six which had gyros, a Sensenich fixed pitch prop, tip up and a 150 hp
Lycoming. So, it looks like Charlie took my constant harping on weight
control to heart. I think I'm as excited as the owner and am looking
forward to when he makes his first flight.
By the way, this airplane has the nicest, no gyro panel I've ever seen on
a RV (and I've looked at a jillion panels over the last 15 years).
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
Russell Duffy said:
[snip]
> I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy
>rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that
you'd want to position
>these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers.
It would look
>something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget
to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that
point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6
slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in
the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{
Perhaps if there were some way to safety it and have a quick release or
something. But then you've kind of eliminated your reason for doing it in
the first place.
I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the
game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close
to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I
don't think pulling the pins is a bad option.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up
as you opened it. What do
>you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method
of pulling the pins?
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Piper type heated pitot mast |
Where did you get your Piper heated pitot mast and does it contain the static
port?
Irv Elhai 80110
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Subject: Manual Trim Tab Cable |
my rv6 kit came with the hole already in the spar.sn 25202. tcrv6(at)aol.com.i
dont see a problem drilling ahole for the cable.there is a snap bushing that
goes in the hole that i think comes in another kit other than the emp.
kit.just drill the hole for the bushing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Piper type heated pitot mast |
>
>Dear Listers,
>In the past, I have noticed a number of posts regarding the various
>alternate types of pitot mast and also where to locate them. So since I
>now have over 50 hours on my RV8 and have varified the performance of my
>installation, I thought I would pass the info on to other builders who may
>be in the decision stage (during wing construction).
>I obtained a standard Piper pitot blade type mast with internal heating
>element. It appears that there is only one size and type, however I am not
>certain of this. They do however, all appear to be the same size.
Dick,
Thanks for the info on your installation. There are apparently
several different Piper pitots, each with a different angle on the
bottom face. They should all give the same pitot pressure, but the
static pressure from each would be different. This allowed Piper to
tailor each installation to try to get the best static accuracy for
that aircraft model.
So, can you see a part number anywhere? Or, maybe you could measure
the angle between the bottom face and the top mounting surface.
Have fun flying,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
Russell,
How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut
out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly
longer, fore and aft. Drill a #30 hole through the cover and the rail
fore and aft. for AN2 flush head bolts. You will need to countersink the
underside of the holes in the channel to allow the use of flush head
bolts. This is needed to allow the roller to clear the hardware.
Make the plate so that it pivots on one bolt when the other is removed.
A castleated nut and washer on top will do for the pivot point bolt.
Remember not to tighten the nut completely. You want the plate to pivot
freely. The other bolt could be held with washers and a cotter/clevis
pin clip. I'm sure that I and other listers can come up with a more
elegant removable pin solution with some more thought. How about it
guys???
By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot
the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks
Boca Raton, Fl.
> In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the
top of the canopy
> rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd
want to position
> these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It
would look something
> like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
>
> Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as
you opened it. What do
> you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of
pulling the pins?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
I put in 1/4" pins with the little locking ball from a "Pegasus Racing"
catalog. I think that the likelihood of having to jettison is less than
the likelihood that the notch solution would cause problems such as
accidental jettison. Airloads change the way the canopy acts with the
rail. T-34s have a handle that pulls a pin on each rail hold down
fastener. Kind of complicated for us and it makes for a rattling
canopy.
BTW. I welded another handle to my canopy frame on the right side.
That way I can slide it back with symmetrical pulls on both sides. I
found that it was difficult to pull only on the latch handle and get the
frame to release from the hold down block at the rear. This solved that
problem and provided another way to close it as well. If you do this be
sure to make it small enough (I modeled it after the latch handle) so
that it won't hit the mid-cabin crossbrace / front seat back support. I
welded it at a 45* to the vertical on the lower frame area although
straight up and down would work too. Put a stop bolt at the rear of the
left rail near the aft end to keep the handles from banging up against
the rear bulkhead.
Also put two hand holds up on the rollover bar. I angled them 45*
forward. They don't obstruct any view and will not be a place to hit
your head, just hang your hand.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap |
I drilled and riveted together my LE prior to drilling on the main skins.
The plans used to call for this I understand. That way, you can mount the
main skins a little higher if needed. Press on, as others have said, not a
big deal on the bottom. Marty RV6A left wing done, on to the right!
-----Original Message-----
From: Christensen, Peter <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 7:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Leading Edge Skin Gap
>
>Help, please. I started drilling my leading edge skins last night, and I
>started on the top side (with a perfect butt-splice between the leading
edge
>and top main skins) and worked my way over the leading edge to the bottom
>side. But as I neared the bottom main skins, I realized that I will have a
>significant gap between the leading edge skins and the bottom main skins,
on
>the order of 1/16" to 3/32". Some of this (about 1/32) is due to the fact
>that the main skins somehow got drilled a little below the 1" line, but I'm
>still short on the skin side. The skins appear to hug the ribs nicely and
>all is square (including the rib flanges). It seems a little late to redo
>all the drilling, so my question is really what to do about the gap. Can
>this get filled in with bondo or equivalent? Does this imply an error so
>profound as to justify starting all over with new leading edge skins? I'm
>getting all stressed out here.
>
>Also, one other question about sequencing again. Once I complete the
>riveting on the leading edge section, how do I put in the bolts that mount
>the ribs to the spar? The rivets are pulled, so that's OK, but how do I
>access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them properly?
>
>I know what you all are thinking: you think this is hard, wait until you
>start on the tanks. To be sure, I'm nervous about that too. Thanks for
>your help.
>
>Peter Christensen
>RV-6A Wings
>Pittsburgh, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was 14 vs. 28v) |
>Twice in the last 20 years I have been stuck with a
>dead battery. The first time happened at a middle-of-nowhere . . .
> . . . .Because I was in airplanes with 14 volt systems,
>their vehicles were able to provide jump starts which got me
>home . . . A 28 volt airplane has far fewer rescue options.
May I suggest that over half of all s.e. airplanes
flying today departed with a FAILED battery? We
tend to treat batteries in our airplanes like
batteries in our cars . . . it gets replaced when
it fails to crank the engine for perhaps the
4th or 5th time?
This means that the battery has been useless as
a source of backup energy for perhaps years before it
finally gets replaced. RG batteries are going to
make this situation worse, they maintain a lower
internal resistance than their wet and gel cousins.
They'll still get an engine started even futher
down the slide toward the recycle bin.
Please learn and observe some peventative maintenance
techniques almost unheard of in certified aviation.
KNOW (by measurement) or BE SURE (by periodic
replacement) or DON'T CARE (with dual alternators)
that the battery is capable of getting you home in
the situations which you fly.
You can find a lot of mechanics out there that curse
batteries for their various faults but very few
that understand how to live with them.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures
of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
>Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM
>
> Dear listers,
> I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes.
> I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
> black and white picture of the scheme that I like.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
Subject: | NY RV Forum - Ride Wanted |
listers,
i am looking for a ride, preferably in an RV, to the RV forum to be held in
Oswego, NY (FZY), on Sept 25. i live near Westchester County airport (HPN),
which is about 200 miles south of FZY. (for more details about the forum,
follow this link --> http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm )
in return, you are welcome to stay at my home if you want to fly up the day
before or want to stick around the day after. in addition, if you come up
this way, you will not want to miss making a sight-seeing flight of
manhattan. it's a blast flying around the Statue of Liberty 500 ft, with
1200 ft skyscrapers just off your wingtips! i will show you the VFR corridor
through the NY airspace.
so if you're headed my way with an empty seat, i'd love to hitch a ride.
please contact me off-list at louis.cappucci(at)gs.com (try using this link -->
mailto:louis.cappucci(at)gs.com )
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb, canopy frame
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
Hi Shelby,
Since I am in the final stages of selecting my paint scheme for my
RV-6A, I would be intrested in seeing this "Coolest" paint job. Please e
mail to me at:
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
Thanks
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
>
> I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures
> of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
>
> If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
>
> I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
I was kicking through some old E-mail and came across conversations on
shipping engines.
I shipped my engine from Fla. to OR. I looked into U-haul, Rail and truck.
All were very expensive and allowed for limited (if any) insurance.
Additionally, these methods appeared difficult to arrange and very time
consuming (3 to 6 weeks).
I ended up shipping AA Air Freight. Cost of packaging and shipping was about
$450 (with insurance) and it was delivered in 3 days. The only draw back was
it required my presence in Fla. (I had to go to inspect anyway). The only
way to fly.
Mike Wilson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
Subject: | Riveting of wing tip ribs |
9/16/99 Bert Murillo
Bertrv(at)intellistar.net
I am building rv6QB, I am curious to know how others finished the wing, when
riveting the tip ribs. The video, shows George riveting the end ribs,
while
the wing is on the jig. It is no clear how he is holding wing vertically .
Please E- mail suggestions
thanks
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Bob Skinner wrote:
> By the way, this airplane has the nicest, no gyro panel I've ever seen on
> a RV (and I've looked at a jillion panels over the last 15 years).
>
> Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
>
> How about a picture of the Panel?
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Subject: | Static air pickup |
writes:
>
>Hi Guys, question regarding the routing and material used for static
>air
>source. Is it necessary to use flexible tubing or can I use a plastic
>type tubing? Also is the size important? Thanks, David RV6A
======================================================>
I used the kit from van's & thought it was great.
I think you could use any thing for the plumbing. the gauges just need a
reference to static pressure that is near true.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
To Randall Henderson......
have you considered drilling a clearence hole in the roll over/wind screen
bar to allow use of the quick release pins for the 6/6A slider frame? Have
been thinking about the same set up but have not actually done anything.
Anybody else out there done something like that?
Dale Ensing
6A slider
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net> |
Subject: | Vortex Generators |
Does anyone have information of the use of vortex generators on
RV's--especially RV-6 or 6A?
Frank Reed
RV-6A (purchased)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: 5th point harness |
I plan on using the Hooker 7 point harness which requires one anchor points
between the crotch and and two about the same location on the out side of
each thigh.
I put in a 1 1/4 X 1/8 X 36 angle across the bottom of the seat ribs and
flush with the bottom skin. I riveted it to the bottom skin and attached
reinforcing angles to attach the large angle to the sides of the seat ribs.
Sounds confusing, but it forms a "U" shape at each rib section. I did this
for both the passenger and pilot sides. I did connect or tie both of the
bottom angles.
Somewhere in the archives is another solution with an attached drawing.
Bob Busick
RV-6
>
>For any of the naturally gifted innovators out there, how have you designed
>the attach fixture under the seat for the fifth point harness ??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | LSE Ignition Systems |
I have chosen the Lightspeed system. Not used yet but have encountered a
problem.
My heads have heli-coils in the spark plug holes. Aircraft plugs go in
without any resistance. The automotive adapters do not screw in. They offer
resistance and begin to shed metal if forced. I have checked the thread and
they seem fine. Have even run a die over them, but it doesn't help. I asked
LSE and they have never heard of this.
Any thoughts???
Mike Wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony J Castellano [mailto:tcastella(at)juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 1999 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electroair Ignition Systems
Yes, I still feel the same way about the Electro-Air ignition system. I
have quite a few
hrs on the A1A now, and it has performed flawlessly.
I am running the bottom plugs (Autolite 386) with the electronic ignition
and the top
plugs with the magneto.
The automotive plugs are working well.
I recently installed my second Electro-Air ignition on my O360-A1F6D with
the same
ignition wire routing, plug types etc, and it too performs flawlessly.
In the last year, I was responsible for the installation of Electro-Air
ignitions on a
Glassair 3, Glassair 2, Lancair and RV6-A. All four owners are also
pleased with
their electronic ignitions.
Good Luck,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (N401TC reserved)
writes:
>
>Castellano)
>>
>>In the past, there was some very negative critisism of Jeff Rose's
>>electronic ignition
>>systems.
>>Although I had purchased two of them at that time, I wasn't qualified
>to
>>comment on
>>the subject since I hadn't tested them yet.
>>I recently installed one in place of the right magneto on my Lycoming
>>O-360 A1A, and
>>after test flying it, I can report that it does everything that Jeff
>>says it will.
>>The instructions were easy to follow, and as recommended, I replaced
>the
>>aircraft
>>plugs with Auto-Lite type 386 (18mm) spark plugs gapped at 0.035". I
>>believe these
>>plugs are a key part of the installation since it would be very
>difficult
>>to gap an aircraft
>>plug to 0.035" without damaging the plug. Also $1.90 vs $16.00.
>>In my opinion, Jeff rose is a very honest and knowledgeable person to
>do
>>business
>>with, and I can highly recommend his product.
>>
>>
>Anthony,
>
>I was just rereading some of my saved mail from the RV-list and saw
>this
>post. I have been seriously thinking of going with Jeff's ignition in
>my
>RV-4, 0-360 A1A. Do you still feel the same way? Which plugs did you
>route
>the Electronic Ignition to - upper, lower, or mixed? How do the
>automotive
>plugs work at this point in your experience? Any reply will be
>appreciated.
>Thanks,
>
>Louis
>
>
>Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
>larywil(at)home.com
>(610) 668-4964
>Philadelphia, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Bell <dbell(at)manisteenational.i2k.com> |
Subject: | RV8 paint schemes |
Shelby,
I would also love those scanned pics of the paint scheme
Thanks
Doug Bell, 8QB Fus work ongoing
dbell(at)manisteenational.com
Doug Bell, PGA
Director of Golf
Manistee National Golf & Resort
(616)-723-8874
On Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:19 AM, Shelby Smith [SMTP:shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com]
wrote:
>
> I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures
> of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
>
> If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
>
> I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
>
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
>
> ----------
> >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
> >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM
> >
>
> > Dear listers,
> > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes.
> > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
> > black and white picture of the scheme that I like.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | conical mount bushings |
I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to go
with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal
bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical
rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord
bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount
bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to
justify the high price?
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was 14 vs. 28v) |
Bob,
I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going
to go very far. I've driven for 42 years and if the batt. was suspect I
would clean the terminals. If that wouldn't do it I would change the
batt. I've also been flying for 24 years and have always thought that
there was something special about "aircraft" batt's. Can you believe that
? An electrician who thought there was something special about a batt.
that had "aircraft" stamped on it. Well, one looks into the hole and
sees that nothing is leaking from the big black box. They close the hole,
get into the plane and push the switch. You v'e heard it a thousand
times.
"Two blades and it started". I think that means that drawing two to
three hundred amps for 1.5 seconds absolutely guarantees that the
starter, generator, pistons and battery are all one hundred percent.
That has to be a hard nut to crack. I'd like to offer a suggestion.
Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one
could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device
that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green
l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect
the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot
of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
writes:
Twice in the last 20 years I have been stuck with a
dead battery. The first happened at a middle-of-nowhere . . .
it gets replaced when
it fails to crank the engine for perhaps the
4th or 5th time?
This means that the battery has been useless as
a source of backup energy for perhaps years before it
finally gets replaced.
Please learn and observe some peventative maintenance
techniques
KNOW (by measurement)
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Subject: | Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment - and a |
fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts
For Scot Risan at Van's Builder Support (and info copy to RV-list)
I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too
far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position.
When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of wood
and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling floors
to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs.
Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the
blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough to
occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during
re-installation of the center plate. THE SIMPLE FIX: Without the center
plate, but with the floors and center ribs cleco'd or screwed together
(used awl to bring rib holes into alignment with skin holes), I drilled
a #40 hole down through skin and a rib, between two fwd platenuts - on
both sides of tunnel between inbd ribs. Also just fwd of an aft
platenut hole that was also giving me a bit of problem. Then I took
deburring tool and did a quick and dirty countersink of each hole and
dropped in a 426-4-8 flush rivet in each hole to "pin" the floor skin
and rib together - hold them aligned even with the screws removed. Then
remove the screws or clecos - the un-driven "rivet pins" hold the ribs
in correct position for all future instances of installing the center
plate, which doesn't even "see" the flush "rivet pins". No more cocked
and stripped screws when installing the center plate. Even did it on
aft end of one of the sloping ribs coming aft from F-604 main spar area
to keep that rib/platenut aligned with floor when the screws are out.
I'm not currently monitoring the RV-list so any feetback needs to come
direct to me at dcarter(at)datarecall.net
David Carter, Nederland, Texas
RV-6, laying out holes for platenuts on F-639 right fwd floor skin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: conical mount bushings |
Mike, don't use the soft rubber cheap mounts!!! I did and was not happy
with the vibrations produced. If you want to try I will give you my old
ones free!
Bite the bullet and order Lord part # J - 6230 - 1 . When you get them they
are so hard you will think they are the wrong ones. Each mount has two
dough nuts and a sleeve that fits in between. If you need more info write
direct. This should be in the archives because I remember submitting a post
on it.
regards
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. Wall to wall blue today and 70 degrees ( 1:00 PM)
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: conical mount bushings
>
>I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to go
>with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal
>bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical
>rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord
>bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount
>bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to
>justify the high price?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Wills
>RV4 canopy
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine shipping |
My O360A1A engine and propeller were shipped to me, from Texas, via Airborne
Airfreight for $300.00. Trucking companies wanted about $350.00.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 9/16/99 5:41:03 PM GMT Daylight Time,
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com writes:
<<
--> RVlist message posted by: "Wilson, James Mike"
I was kicking through some old E-mail and came across conversations on
shipping engines.
I shipped my engine from Fla. to OR. I looked into U-haul, Rail and truck.
All were very expensive and allowed for limited (if any) insurance.
Additionally, these methods appeared difficult to arrange and very time
consuming (3 to 6 weeks).
I ended up shipping AA Air Freight. Cost of packaging and shipping was about
$450 (with insurance) and it was delivered in 3 days. The only draw back was
it required my presence in Fla. (I had to go to inspect anyway). The only
way to fly.
Mike Wilson
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Subject: | Re: conical mount bushings |
>I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings
>to go with my conical engine/mount.
>Mike Wills
>RV4 canopy
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
============================================================
I bought a Lyc parts book PC-103 for the 0-320 series before I found a
D3G engine. Now I need another book. Any way it shows p/n 71032(8) & (8)
STD-619 washers for conical mounts.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
Subject: | Re: It's Hell Gettin Older |
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hyde <dhyde(at)sstar.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: It's Hell Gettin Older
>
> I, too got dizzy with lineless bifocals, and soon switched to the lined
> kind with no further problems.
>
SNIP
I switched to lineless bifocals for flying because I was informed by my
flight surgeon that I was not going to be able to pass the mid-vision
requirement for Class II much longer. In the summer, I fly Super Cubs in
the mountains of Alaska for hunters (air taxi) and land on very short and
usually nasty strips (off airport the FAA calls it), so depth perception and
visual acuity are important. I adjusted with no problems, although I cannot
read with the doggone things. I found the reading width too narrow for the
way I read, and I prefer lined bifocals or reading glasses for that.
I also got some computer glasses that focus from mid range to close range
(unlined). I found they are great for mechanical work, like building RV's.
Not to worry about old age and its problems- remember it is only a temporary
condition. Gar Pessel RV6 canopy, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: conical mount bushings |
Mike,
See if LORD will send you the video of the Northern Lights aerobatic teams
rubber mounts. Once you see the video, you will not buy the cheap mounts.
If you are going to do any kind of aerobatics with your plane go with LORD
or BARRY mounts.
Bryan Files
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
-4 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 10:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: conical mount bushings
>
> I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to
go
> with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal
> bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical
> rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord
> bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount
> bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to
> justify the high price?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Wills
> RV4 canopy
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was |
14 vs. 28v)
Larry & Listers,
While I'm sure that Bob N. can come up with a more accurate test, here
is an easy and free one. Ensure that the battery is fully charged. With
the mags grounded (no spark), crank the starter for at least 15
seconds. Watch your volt meter. If it stays above 9.6 volts the entire
time, the battery is at least "fair". This test "assumes" that your
starter is good and all wire connections are OK. Either way, if it
fails, it's time to find out what is wrong.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks
Boca Raton, Fl.
> Bob,
> I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going
> to go very far. I've driven for 42 years and if the batt. was suspect I
> would clean the terminals. If that wouldn't do it I would change the
> batt. I've also been flying for 24 years and have always thought that
> there was something special about "aircraft" batt's. Can you believe that
> ? An electrician who thought there was something special about a batt.
> that had "aircraft" stamped on it. Well, one looks into the hole and
> sees that nothing is leaking from the big black box. They close the hole,
> get into the plane and push the switch. You v'e heard it a thousand
> times.
> "Two blades and it started". I think that means that drawing two to
> three hundred amps for 1.5 seconds absolutely guarantees that the
> starter, generator, pistons and battery are all one hundred percent.
> That has to be a hard nut to crack. I'd like to offer a suggestion.
> Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one
> could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device
> that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green
> l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect
> the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot
> of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
I'd be interested.. can you post them for all to see.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Elevators (Wings Inventoried) Sn 80972
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
Bonnyville, AB Canada
Shelby Smith wrote:
>
> I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures
> of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
>
> If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
>
> I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
>
> ----------
> >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
> >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM
> >
>
> > Dear listers,
> > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes.
> > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
> > black and white picture of the scheme that I like.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: It's Hell Gettin Older |
In a message dated 9/16/99 2:20:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pessel(at)ptialaska.net writes:
<< Not to worry about old age and its problems- remember it is only a
temporary
condition. >>
Gar
Thanks for the feedback. It's not old age that worries me. It's gettin thru
this middle age stuff that's bothering me.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Forward Baggage Door |
RV8 Builders,
I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am
working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears that I
am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It isn't off
by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am
planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit
exactly.
Any advise out there.
Thanks.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
80783 8A
Fuselage & Systems Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
Subject: | Re: 5th point harness |
Buster wrote:
> For any of the naturally gifted innovators out there, how have you designed
> the attach fixture under the seat for the fifth point harness ??
More gifted, innovative, or imaginative than you??? Nah, I'm just an RV
information packrat.
You can find an attach fixture designed by someone else (and links to
other 5th-point attachment ideas and vendors) at my web page
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny3b.htm>
You'll also find a fair amount of discussion on this if you search the
RV-list archives.
> and wife declines to help simply because I drilled into her palm...how petty
I think this one is going to hurt you a lot!
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Van was doing some work with these this last year. There is an article in one
of the recent RVators. Don't know which one as I am not in the same location
as my library.
In a message dated Thu, 16 Sep 1999 1:03:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Frank A.
Reed" writes:
>
> Does anyone have information of the use of vortex generators on
> RV's--especially RV-6 or 6A?
>
> Frank Reed
> RV-6A (purchased)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 Forward Baggage Door |
>I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am
>working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears that
I
>am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It isn't
off
>by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am
>planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit
>exactly.
>Any advise out there.
Mark,
Yes, the door is slightly wider than the opening, especially the top edge
where the hinge attaches. On the sides I simply took a magic marker along
the edge overlapping onto the top the amount I needed to trip. It wasn't
even so I adjusted the angle of the marker appropriately as I ran it down.
Then on the top edge (where the hinge goes) I had to remove about a quarter
inch which I think I cut with my bandsaw and smoothed with a vixen file.
BTW, the sides were trimmed with a vixen file as well. That thing works
really well for removing small amounts of aluminum, especially if it's not a
straight line, as the side trimming wasn't.
The cardboard template may work as well, your call. Hope this helps.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, still contemplating canopy skirt but gotta do something soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
Randall:
You seem to be saying that you have some information on what would happen in
one took off in a RV-6 slider with the canopy unlocked. Do you have this
info? If so, I would appreciate you sharing it with those of us building
this same airplane. I don't suppose anyone has tried this intentionally, so
I am assuming someone along the line has 'fessed up.
Appreciate any light you can shed on this. Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ INT
RV-6 Wing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy release- another option
>
> Russell Duffy said:
> [snip]
> > I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy
> >rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that
> you'd want to position
> >these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the
rollers.
> It would look
> >something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
>
> I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget
> to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that
> point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on
the -6
> slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in
> the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{
>
> Perhaps if there were some way to safety it and have a quick release or
> something. But then you've kind of eliminated your reason for doing it in
> the first place.
>
> I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in
the
> game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too
close
> to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I
> don't think pulling the pins is a bad option.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
> >
> >Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up
> as you opened it. What do
> >you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other
method
> of pulling the pins?
> >
> >Russell Duffy
> >Navarre, FL
> >RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass.
Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws?
Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the
platenut and the fiberglass?
Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts?
Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32
pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
Thanks for any replies,
Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries |
> I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going
> to go very far. . . .
> . . . . I'd like to offer a suggestion.
>Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one
>could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device
>that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green
>l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect
>the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot
>of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others.
Funny you should mention that. I'm working on the AGATE derivative
of the A36 Bonanza and one of the suggestions I've raised is to
include a load-type battery test fixture (about .8 lbs) to the
airplane. Once every 6 months or so, the pilot pushes a button
when he parks the airplane. Next time fires the airplane up,
the load tester reports battery CAPACITY and recommends replacement
if it's below some selected value.
Of course this works only for the airplane with dual batteries.
It also only works if the pilot plans to fly again in a few days
(the tester takes the battery down to 5-10% of capacity and
you don't want to leave the battery in that state for long. Further,
you only test one battery at a time so you have the other to get
the engine started). This same device could be a tool-box device
that one would clip onto a battery, come back in a few hours and
read the capacity before putting the battery on a charger.
To keep costs down, we're considering the use of a regular
multimeter to display capccity so that the fixture has only
two leads that clip to a battery and two leads that plug into
a multimeter. I'm talking with a high volume battery manufacturer
about designing the thing, they'll have it built for sale under
their brand but I'll get my "royalties" out of it by getting
green units at cost which I'll brand for the 'Connection. It's
a tool who's time has come . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: Piper type heated pitot mast |
They all contain the static port and they are available from Piper dealers
and all of the scrap dealers.
Dick Martin
----------
> From: IELHAI(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Piper type heated pitot mast
> Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 11:45 PM
>
>
> Where did you get your Piper heated pitot mast and does it contain the
static
> port?
>
> Irv Elhai 80110
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
Dear Shelby,
Please Email me the scans, I am very interested. Thank You.
Dick Martin
martin(at)gbonline.com
----------
> From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
> Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 10:19 AM
>
>
> I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some
pictures
> of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
>
> If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
>
> I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
>
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
>
> ----------
> >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
> >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM
> >
>
> > Dear listers,
> > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint
schemes.
> > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
> > black and white picture of the scheme that I like.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
Lothar:
Here's what I did:
1. I countersank the fiberglass for both the #6 screw dimples and the nut
plate rivets.
2. I did not use the .025 backing...you really don't need it becasue the
nut plates themselves serve as a backing for the rivet shop heads.
3. Soft rivets are available from the tool folks, but I didn't use them.
Just regular rivets.
4. Countersunk #6 plate nuts are available from Van's. I just ordered
some. But you don't need those here.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ INT
RV-6 Wing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
>
> I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass.
> Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the
screws?
> Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the
> platenut and the fiberglass?
> Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts?
> Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32
> pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
> Thanks for any replies,
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 Forward Baggage Door |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
>I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am
>working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears
>that I
>am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It
>isn't off
>by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am
>planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit
>exactly.
>
>Any advise out there.
>
>Thanks.....Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>80783 8A
>Fuselage & Systems Stuff
>
The 3 baggage doors I have done in the prototype shop so far exactly fit
the opening except for along the top where the hinge goes.
The door skin was designed so that it just fits inside the opening to
help hold it in the exact position while you drill/assemble the door.
Then you are supposed to file/trim the edges slightly to provide a
nominal clearance to allow for paint buildup etc.
What you need to do now is "just make it work"... ooh I can't believe I
said that.
Actually you will have to just try and see what works for you. My
experience with poster board is that if I use stuff that is stiff enough,
it doesn't want to curve smoothly, and if I use stuff that curves nicely
it is just too flexible.
Did you drill on the F-822 skin with the removable piece in the baggage
door opening still in place?
If you did then I wouldn't think the door skin size would be of by very
far. You may be able to just file on the edges a little at a time to get
a tight fit.
BTW... from talking to a lot of builders that have had problems with the
baggage door assembly I find that the biggest error is not following the
instructions to drill and rivet the inside skin with the door taped down
tight, and not taking the time to "carefully straighten (flute)the ribs
and adjust the angle of the door rib flanges. There are fluting diagrams
on one of the fluting drawings.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of |
alignment - and a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too
>far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position.
>When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of
>wood
>and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling
>floors
>to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs.
-
One simple way of dealing with this is to use some strips of duct tape
pulled tight laterally acrossed the ribs and stuck to each rib with them
in the proper position.
You can use as many pieces of tape as necessary.
>
>Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the
>blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough
>to
>occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during
>re-installation of the center plate.
-
It is usually a good practice to rivet the plate nuts through the rib and
the seat/floor skins for 2 reasons.
1. The rivets that attach the plate nut also hold the rib in place for
you.
2. The rivets that attach the plate nut are accessible. This is
important if you ever do strip out one of those plate nuts and you need
to drill out the rivets to replace it. If the rivets are only through
the rib (covered up by the floor/seat skin) then you have to remove the
whole floor to be able to remove that one plate nut.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for |
Pre-dimpledPlatenuts
Lothar Klingmuller wrote:
>
> I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass.
> Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws?
Yes you need to countersink for both the screws and rivets. The screws
countersink must be deep enough to allow the dimpled skin to nest fully.
>
> Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the
> platenut and the fiberglass?
Nope. The platenut has enough area to keep the rivet from destroying the glass.
The doubler is used on the back side of fiberglass when using blind rivets.
>
> Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts?
The NAS1097AD rivets, or "UH-OH"!! rivets, work really well for attaching
platenuts to both aluminum and fiberglass. The main advantage is not having to
countersink as deep due to their smaller head. Soft aluminum rivets would also
work well but I have never used any.
>
> Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32
> pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
Since the platenuts are going on the inside of the fiberglass and the fiberglass
is countersunk for the rivet there is no need for pre dimpled platenuts. I have
installed a lot of 6-32 and 8-32 platenuts and never needed to dimple the
platenut. I use the NAS1097AD3-x reduced countersunk head rivet for all my
platenut riveting.
>
> Thanks for any replies,
Your Welcome.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 - N99PZ reserved. - Installing Van's manual aileron trim
Pine Junction, Colorado 8480 feet MSL
>
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
----- Original Message -----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
>
> I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass.
> Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the
screws?
> Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the
> platenut and the fiberglass?
> Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts?
> Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32
> pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
> Thanks for any replies,
I used .025 aluminum strip as a backing plate. I prosealed it to the
fiberglass. (Hope you have lots of cleco sideclamps) Then I countersunk the
fiberglass and used the pure aluminum rivets to keep the stress on the
fiberglass to a minumum. You do not need to dimple the platenuts behind the
fiberglass; it is thick enough to take the rivet head. Remember to use a
cheap countersink on the fiberglass and not to use afterwords it on
aluminum. The glass will dull it for anything useful except fiberglass.
Countersinking for the screw looks a little messy, but the edge of the wing
skin covers the mess. You should spend some care in fitting the wingtip
before drilling for the screws. The result is quite strong and will look
good. Gar Pessel qb6 canopy, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
Subject: | Re: strobes and voltage |
>
>I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on
>my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the
>strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and
>back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation
>when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would
>drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong?
It sure sounds like an almost discharged battery. Put your battery on a
charger and try again. If that doesn't fix it you have a high-resistance
connection somewhere.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
Hi Lothar,
I first layed out the pattern for the platenut position along the metal
edge of the wing tip. I then cut out an 1/2" wide aluminum 0.025 strip that
would run along the inside edge of the wingtip. I positioned the strip
underneath the edge of the wing tip and drilled through the wingtip skin and
aluminum strip to located the platenut position on both the skin and strip.
I thing positioned the fiberglass wing tip (after trimming it so that it
fit the molded outline) onto the wing tip and using the wing tip drilled
hole as a guide drilled a hole thru the fiberglass wing tip. This gives you
the wing skin, fiberglass tip, and aluminum strip with the same hole
pattern.
I then clecoed the strip to the fiberglass tip and proceeded to place
platenuts at each drilled hole (DO NOT drill holes in your wing skin for the
platenut rivit mounting holes - only a single hole for your platenut screw).
I did not use dimpled platenuts, I place them on the underside of the strip
drilled the rivit hole thru fiberglass skin and aluminum strip. I did
countersink both the rivit and platenut screw hole in the fiberglass ,but
dimpled the platenut hole on the wing skin. Other than the pain of putting
a total of 40 tiny platenuts on, it went well.
I am glad I did the platenuts instead of pop riviting them on as I have
already had them off to fix an landing light problem and antenna problem.
Hope this helps.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
>
> I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass.
> Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the
screws?
> Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the
> platenut and the fiberglass?
> Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts?
> Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32
> pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
> Thanks for any replies,
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "riveter" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
Listers,
How much clearance do some of you have between your aileron and the gap seal
at the closest point? My aileron comes within 1/8 of an inch of the gap seal
at the closest point. I don't think it would ever bind up in normal flight
as it would take a considerable downward force on the top of the wing
trailing edge to deflect it. Since the top is the low pressure side, it
should be fine, but I need some more opinions on this one.
Mark McGee
Upstate NY
RV-4
Finishing second wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
--- Lothar Klingmuller
wrote:
>
>
> I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32
> platenuts to the fiberglass.
> Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the
> platenut rivets and the screws?
> Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or
> backing strip between the
> platenut and the fiberglass?
> Do I need special rivits for attaching the
> platenuts?
> Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I
> can find only 8-32
> pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32.
> Thanks for any replies,
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for
> finishing kit|||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
Cleaveland Aircraft Tools sells a # 4 hardware kit to
attach the wing tips. WHS-220
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvacc.html
Just follow their instructions that come with it.
Looks and works great after over 430 hours of flying.
==
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RVs and Images..long |
Sorry Austin, That's one for the archives......one of your
best.....Thanks....AL
>
>
>Flying has consumed me and turned me into a romantic.
>Images come to me by sight, sound , memory, and imagination.
>The joy of fast, free, unfettered flight in an RV has, for me, opened wide
>the great doors to the grand hallways of the air that I could not know of if
>I had not become a builder.
>A builder so lucky to live in the time frame where gas, oil, engines and
>airplanes and the beloved RV are present in this time, this place.
> The images of my inspiration come from watching the big iron arrive
>and depart at my local international, or a drive in the evening to a small
>local field to watch light planes touch and go until the sky is red and
>black, lights come on, and one ship after another taxi to the gas pit,
>thence to retire for one more day. Also in the evening, TV has wondrous
>footage of carrier ops in heart stopping sound and color.
> My favorite though, is somewhat old and simple. It is time spent on the
>banks of my old man river, where here, where I reside, nights are getting
>cold, leaves are turning a riot of red and gold, and cold marine air moves
>in to form a blanket of low mist and fog over the land and waterways.
> I begin to hear the music of a radial engine as a Beaver rounds the
>point growing larger, closer, louder and the craft seeks the surface of the
>water, lower, lower, until a rooster tail spray erupts from the floats like
>bold, wild brush strokes of white on canvas, and then subsides.
> Ticket, tickety, tickety, the prop slows in its song and the Beaver glides
>serenely to the dockside, a silhouette now, black against the red, reflected
>in reverse in the water.
> A Beaver to be sure, not an RV, but enough to spark my plug to get
>working, to fly again.
> TV and movies evoke some beautiful and inspiring scenes and musical
>passages to portray the thrill and beauty of flight.
> One image shows a reflection of a passenger jet in a window glass
>while United plays a theme based on the Rhapsody In Blue .
>The English Patient shows us a loving old biplane coursing slowly and
>painfully over the endless expanse of sand dunes while haunting and
>beautiful music tugs at our hearts and sympathies.
>Out Of Africa, another old biplane, carried along over sights that only a
>flier can see and revere all the while accompanied by music which seems
>entirely appropriate and natural to flying..beautiful and unashamedly
>sentimental.
> But in flying my RV, I tried, very hard I tried, but could not hear
>these wonderful passages.
> MY RV was noisy and raucous, it barks...It was far from sedate, silent,
>and dreamy.
>I would like to hear the chorus, but I can't.
>And then one day it came.
>After many times together, when we were relaxed as friends and comfortable
>with each other's company, the never ending thrill of take-off and climb, a
>thrill each time, just as the thrill of the kiss..inspires and renews,....I
>hear it..It is grander than Gershwin, it is Toccata from a Symphony No. 5
>(Widor).
>It is a grand organ, not in the Ratzeburg Cathedral in Germany..it is right
>here...up here where the RV and I lead and guide each other in turn,
>banking, swooping, rolling in a crescendo of chords.
> Oh ! that I could play an instrument like that ! ..But what of the RV
>?
>It truly is an instrument,.. and you are the player !
>And after laughing and dancing together, you both return to earth and the
>engine, the music, the sounds are stilled, you find your way home warmed in
>the glow of a wonderful time together.
>It lasts a long while. The RV says "call again soon and we'll do it all over
>again".
> The leaves have begun to fall, I sit on the lawn swing and read until it
>is too cold to linger. I read of fliers and airplanes and remember those who
>went before.
>My early flight instructors, tough and kind...the old breed that made you
>believe you were a good flier when they finally told you so.
> Old Ted, who gave me the gift of formation flying.
>Old Franz, with the .50 cal. scar across the forehead with his stories of
>flying a 109.
>Smiling Art, who said it was easy to fly a whiskey compass heading within 3
>degrees of course,..later lost while landing a 707 in a whiteout.
>Ken, he of the Mustangs and Sabres, of air combat in Korea, ..cranky when
>the Malaria dogged him, but my best instructor of all to show me what a 140
>can do.
> Stan, who opened the world of float flying and another form of freedom to
>me.
>Flying has so many people and so many facets to it. How can it become
>common-place ?
> Up in the hills, 300 miles from home, where at 3500 ft, I drive a
>mountain road through canyons where the granite walls rise 10,000 feet along
>my route.
>I stop a while and hear the sound of a sport plane type exhaust note, a fast
>red homebuilt , short, fat wings with winking strobes swoops in a descending
>arc and disappears.
> Way out here, another unexpected treat as I find an airfield with a warm
>RV on the apron, drawing me as a magnet to look it over, find the pilot, and
>enjoy what follows.
> So now, it is a good time to work, to see fewer and fewer pieces left
>to put in place.
>Like the bear, the beaver and the squirrels, I am a hive of activity
>preparing for Winter.
>But my hibernation will not be one of sleep..it will be one of RV work and
>images of flying to help me through the long Winter night.
> Let me once again climb aboard my magic carpet, bring to life the song
>of the engine, close the canopy and feel the push in my back, the moment of
>lifting free from the ground, the RV climbing out quickly and eagerly
>without peer or equal to dash away and set out for the shoreline.
>Over the islands, letting down at speed, the surf and shore blend as a blue
>and white ribbon curving and twisting as if caught in a slipstream ahead of
>us.
> Was this how it was at Kahili ?...Kwajalein...New Guinea ?
>Is this a snapshot of what once was and I can see history out of the
>windscreen and beyond the spinner ?
> Why am I always looking around ? Up above, behind me and around. I find
>myself constantly checking the fuel...what is my compass heading ?? Where
>are my buddies ?
>Have they all turned away ?
> The light is fading some and the last of it plays odd tricks as my shadow
>keeps pace on the water, then cloud as we race along together and I hold
>place, looking on.
> This is the place to be,.. alone or no..up with the images, the magic,
>the wonder.
>Up, up and climbing, as high as we can go, where a bit of sunlight still
>resides and we can see forever.
> The vast Pacific spreads before..I have flown very far....Is that Kahili
>there ??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Risan " <support(at)vansaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment - and |
a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts
thanks for the input....scott at van's
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Send reply to: dcarter(at)datarecall.net
Copies to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment -
and a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts
> For Scot Risan at Van's Builder Support (and info copy to RV-list)
>
> I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too
> far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position.
> When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of wood
> and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling floors
> to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs.
>
> Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the
> blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough to
> occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during
> re-installation of the center plate. THE SIMPLE FIX: Without the center
> plate, but with the floors and center ribs cleco'd or screwed together
> (used awl to bring rib holes into alignment with skin holes), I drilled
> a #40 hole down through skin and a rib, between two fwd platenuts - on
> both sides of tunnel between inbd ribs. Also just fwd of an aft
> platenut hole that was also giving me a bit of problem. Then I took
> deburring tool and did a quick and dirty countersink of each hole and
> dropped in a 426-4-8 flush rivet in each hole to "pin" the floor skin
> and rib together - hold them aligned even with the screws removed. Then
> remove the screws or clecos - the un-driven "rivet pins" hold the ribs
> in correct position for all future instances of installing the center
> plate, which doesn't even "see" the flush "rivet pins". No more cocked
> and stripped screws when installing the center plate. Even did it on
> aft end of one of the sloping ribs coming aft from F-604 main spar area
> to keep that rib/platenut aligned with floor when the screws are out.
>
> I'm not currently monitoring the RV-list so any feetback needs to come
> direct to me at dcarter(at)datarecall.net
>
>
> David Carter, Nederland, Texas
> RV-6, laying out holes for platenuts on F-639 right fwd floor skin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: New, RV Model-Specific Email Lists |
agree, leave them all on one list. we can click through those of no
immediate interest.
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a, flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
Shelby:
I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for my 8a. Would appreciate have a
photo.
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
Jimmy Hill
8a, flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Subject: | RV8 paint schemes |
Hi all...
My -8 empennage kit arrived yesterday! I am still getting my jig setup and
waiting for some tools though...
On the subject of paint schemes... I have some on my web site I have been
working on if anyone is interested... I am also looking for suggestions on
new schemes... http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor/
-Bill Von Dane
-8A empennage
bvondane(at)atmel.com
http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Hrycauk
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
I'd be interested.. can you post them for all to see.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Elevators (Wings Inventoried) Sn 80972
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
Bonnyville, AB Canada
Shelby Smith wrote:
>
> I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures
> of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen.
>
> If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately.
>
> I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon.
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
>
> ----------
> >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes
> >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM
> >
>
> > Dear listers,
> > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint
schemes.
> > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a
> > black and white picture of the scheme that I like.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
For those who are looking for the RG-400 coax cable, we'll have it
in stock Monday (9-20) at $1.75/ft
We will custom assemble RG-400 assemblies with BNC male
connectors for $4.00 per connector additional.
We'll be stocking crimp on BNC connectors -and- tools to
install the connectors . . . the tools will be $40.00 each.
Connectors will be $10.00 for a bag of six.
For those who missed out on the refurbished machine pin crimp
tools for D-sub connectors last spring, we have located another
source for NEW, low cost tools. These will be $38.00 each and
will show up in our website catalog next week.
We have heatguns for installing heat shrink tubing at $23.00 ea.
We'll be posting wire marking kits which will include a pre-
printed sheet of adhesive backed numbers and an assortment
of CLEAR heatshrink . . . probably enough to do a complete
airframe. Haven't decided on the cost yet . . . somewhere
around $16.00.
A BIG expansion of our inventory and website catalog is in
the works. We're debugging new shopping cart software for
our website. After a contractor gets done with some basement
repairs which includes our shop area, we'll be putting up
about 400 square feet of shelving to hold LOTS of electro-
goodies.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 paint schemes |
From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
The Extra website has a gallery of pictures of Extra aircraft which is
similar in shape to an RV-8.
>
>Shelby:
>I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for my 8a. Would appreciate
>have a
>photo.
>Thanks.
>hilljw(at)aol.com
>Jimmy Hill
>8a, flying
>
>
>
---
>
---
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | RV-4 canopy installation |
The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the
frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet
spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling
the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy
using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then
drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these
holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy
rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over
these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here?
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
I will be in Wichita on bussness all next week and would like to see an RV
project or twp. Since I am waiting for my -8 finish kit to arrive I would
like to see projects that are at the finish kit stage and prefer -8. If
anyone in the Wichita area would be willing to show off their project, please
respond off list.
Thanks,
Alan Kritzman
N13EER(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "scott R" <sringen(at)hevanet.com> |
Subject: | Helper available in Portland OR |
Looking to help rivet, ect. to gain experience.
I'm available weekday mornings and some weekends
Scott in Beaverton
646-0038
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries |
From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
writes:
> (the tester takes the battery down to 5-10% of capacity and
> you don't want to leave the battery in that state for long.
>
Bob,
A few years back I did some research into batteries for an underwater
propulsion device and I learned that the number of cycles that you got
out of a battery decreased with the percent discharge of the cycles. So
I am wondering what the effect on battery life is when you discharge it
to 5-10% of its capacity. Is that the only way to test the battery?
Bruce Green
Skybolt & RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy installation |
Mike:
I am just about in the very same area of construction as you are. A
local -4 builder near me used your #2 alternative. In fact he drilled and
tapped #6 machine screws into the tubing framework to hold the canopy during
the drilling and fitting process and then left the screws in place between
the rivets.
I plan to do the same although I intend to use rivnuts and #6 screws to
attach the canopy to allow it to be removed easier if it was ever necessary.
I have just finished the front canopy skirt (what a challenge to get a nice
fit) and also a canopy hold open latch.
Doug Weiler
> The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the
> frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet
> spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling
> the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy
> using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then
> drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these
> holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy
> rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over
> these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here?
>
> Mike Wills
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy installation |
Cleckos' worked for me . They allowed for allignment to ensure that the fit-up
/
beat with hammer / fit-up process remained alligned during the process. BTW I
used Poly Fiber Epoxy filler & a old credit card as a trowel/squeegee to place
a fillet of epoxy along the boundry you are working on. I looks great ! I used
pipe insulation for the sanding block to sand the fillet.
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil on 09/17/99 12:00:07 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy installation
The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the
frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet
spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling
the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy
using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then
drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these
holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy
rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over
these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here?
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
My aileron also has an eighth of an inch clearance. It fits fine in the
female airfoil template and aligns with the trailing edge of the flap
perfectly. I was suprised that it was so close but I looked at other planes
at OSH and posted a query to the RV list and seems that this is normal. Now
I have to find a place to store the right wing while I start the left wing.
Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | RV-3 Position light bulbs |
What are the typical wattage of position lights?
Does anybody have the GE number for the two pole bayonet bulb of the
needed wattage?
Or is the typical car taillight sufficient?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor |
I am at the big bucks stage and I am looking at two engine monitors. I have
read all the archives about the various models and manufactures. But I
called Grand Rapids Technology about their new monitor that includes four
CHTs and EGTs along with about everything else that the Rocky Mountain
Engine
Monitor includes. The GRT is the same price as the RMI, (but the RMI must
be
customer assembled for the same price).
I was totally surprised at some of the new add ons and computer options
that are or will be available soon.
1. You can include as an add-on a Altimeter/ROC, and airspeed indicators.
2. Shortly there will be software available for the user to customize the
different screens.
3. One year return policy, all money back, no questions asked! Two year
warranty.
I find it intriguing that one can have all the necessary VFR instruments in
one black box ( just off the top of my head, it seems that they are all
there). If you can truly customize your screen, and each function has upper
and lower limit alarms, this seems like a very interesting way to fly.
I know some of you do not like the idea of just monitoring some alarms, but
based upon my flight training, I spend most of my time looking out the
windows and very little time looking at the gauges. I must admit, I have
gone hours without ever looking at some of the engine gauges on the C-172s
that I fly. Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more
attention.
This almost sounds too good to be true?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: RVs and Images..long |
<<< A builder so lucky to live in the time frame
where gas, oil, engines and
> airplanes and the beloved RV are present in this
time, this place.>>>
G'Day Buster,
Bravo, another gem!!
Cheers and have a great day,
Ken Glover Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
Check out http://members.home.net/rv8er/shop/theshop.htm I used fire hose
to hang mine on the wall...worked very well..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: JFW9855(at)aol.com <JFW9855(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
>
>My aileron also has an eighth of an inch clearance. It fits fine in the
>female airfoil template and aligns with the trailing edge of the flap
>perfectly. I was suprised that it was so close but I looked at other planes
>at OSH and posted a query to the RV list and seems that this is normal.
Now
>I have to find a place to store the right wing while I start the left wing.
>Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
Does anyone know where I can purchase non-crimp, screw together BNC
connectors?
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
Subject: | RV-6(A) static line routing |
Hello fellow RV-6(A) builders,
Question about the static line routing on a 6(A). I have searched the
archives, drawings and manual, but could not find the answer to this.
I know the static line should run under the longeron from the static
port to the back of the instrument panel (per figure 8-15 in the
manual), with the static port being the low point in the system. Where
do you route the line through the F605 bulkhead? Note, this will have a
tip up canopy, so there is the canopy lock mechinsm to avoid in the
upper corner of the F605, as well as the rivet pattern in the upper
corner holding the F605-D, -E, -F, and -G together.
Lots of -6s and -6As out there with tip up canopys.....someone has to
have solved this one.
Thanks,
Steve Allison
RV-6A
fitting forward fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
In a message dated 9/17/99 6:38:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes:
> Subj: Re: RV-List: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
> Date: 9/17/99 6:38:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time
> From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
> Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Does anyone know where I can purchase non-crimp, screw together BNC
> connectors?
>
> Brian Eckstein
> 6A finishing
Hi Brian: I think I can help you. But first let's clarify what you're looking
for. You want screw on to the cable BNC. Not screw the connectors together
type... AKA...TNC. Let me know which it is and how many in what
configuration. Male/Female...etc. We have some of both types BNC Screw On
and TNC. Sorry but we don't show them on our site.
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor |
Listers
I have the latest version of the Grand rapids engine monitor. It is my old
unit upgraded with the new software.
All the EGT & CHT work and alarm at your pre-set limits. The bar grafts and
rate of change monitors will be in the finished software. There are four AUX
inputs and I am having some trouble making my fuel press and man press work
using the cal numbers from my old unit. Fuel flow works and is very
accurate with the default settings. It can be tweaked if necessary to
improve accuracy. My unit has altitude and rate of climb built in and they
appear to work OK although I don't use them. Much of the customisation which
is to be available in the finished software shows up on my unit though it
doesn't function. e.g. what goes on which page and in what position on the
page. I would think that the initial set-up could be a bit time consuming
and possibly a pain, but you should only have to do it once. All in All, I
would say that the unit, if it performs as Greg says it will and I believe
it will, should be far and away the most bang for the buck for engine
monitoring.
Ted French
RV-6A C-FXCS flying with 16.5 hrs as of today
Prince George BC
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Busick <panamared(at)brier.net>
Sent: May 11, 1999 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor
>
> I am at the big bucks stage and I am looking at two engine monitors. I
have
> read all the archives about the various models and manufactures. But I
> called Grand Rapids Technology about their new monitor that includes four
> CHTs and EGTs along with about everything else that the Rocky Mountain
> Engine
> Monitor includes. The GRT is the same price as the RMI, (but the RMI must
> be
> customer assembled for the same price).
>
> I was totally surprised at some of the new add ons and computer options
> that are or will be available soon.
> 1. You can include as an add-on a Altimeter/ROC, and airspeed
indicators.
> 2. Shortly there will be software available for the user to customize the
> different screens.
> 3. One year return policy, all money back, no questions asked! Two year
> warranty.
>
> I find it intriguing that one can have all the necessary VFR instruments
in
> one black box ( just off the top of my head, it seems that they are all
> there). If you can truly customize your screen, and each function has
upper
> and lower limit alarms, this seems like a very interesting way to fly.
>
> I know some of you do not like the idea of just monitoring some alarms,
but
> based upon my flight training, I spend most of my time looking out the
> windows and very little time looking at the gauges. I must admit, I have
> gone hours without ever looking at some of the engine gauges on the C-172s
> that I fly. Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more
> attention.
>
> This almost sounds too good to be true?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "HP-18" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com> |
Subject: | Charging problem? |
-
>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate.
>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right
>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to
>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a
>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter
>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator?
>
>Thanks
>
>Kurt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Charging problem? |
Is the flashing tail light on???
>
>
>-
>
>>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate.
>>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right
>>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to
>>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a
>>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter
>>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Kurt
>>
>>
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6AWING(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Drill filings in spar |
Yesterday I was drilling the wing rib attachment holes in the spar webs and
the
3/16" holes in the rib attachment angles. Some drill filings fell and were
lodged between some of the flange strips. All subsequent spar drilling was
done with tape over the external flange strips.
I've managed to get all of the filings out out, but it got me thinking about
something:
What about the filings that will fall between the spar webs?
It seems like this is something that is EXTREMELY undesirable, but yet I've
seen nothing in literature about preventing this. I think it might be
unpreventable.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor |
From: | Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com> |
I've been flying with my RMI engine monitor almost a year now and would
not be without it. One feature I particularly like is the audible alarm.
It gets your attention immediately if a parameter goes out of limits.
(The visual warning is a flashing reading of the offending parameter on
the display) Mine has reminded me to turn on the aux fuel pump while
doing aerobatics (low fuel pressure), it has reminded me to reduce the
throttle setting during high speed descents (high rpm), and the timer
function has let me know it is time to switch fuel tanks when my
attention was elsewhere( in formation flights).
The only criticism I have of the warning system is a minor one. It is
that the warning tone for out of limits readings and the timer is the
same. It would be nice to be able to tell without looking at the
instrument whether you have a problem to deal with immediately or not.
I would not be put off by having to assemble the unit. I built mine and
my hangar mate built his with no problems. I'm a retired USAF pilot and
he is an insurance salesman so you know how handy we are with tools. My
hangar mate was so impressed with the monitor kit, he decided to build
the microEncoder also.
Bob Hall,
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Drill filings in spar |
RV6AWING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Yesterday I was drilling the wing rib attachment holes in the spar webs and
> the
> 3/16" holes in the rib attachment angles. Some drill filings fell and were
> lodged between some of the flange strips. All subsequent spar drilling was
> done with tape over the external flange strips.
With the spar riveted together I don't quite understand how chips can get between
the flange strips. Could you explain this in more detail.
>
>
> I've managed to get all of the filings out out, but it got me thinking about
> something:
>
> What about the filings that will fall between the spar webs?
With the wing in the jig the drilling of the ribs to the spar is an upward
affair. Gravity is causing most of the chips to fall away from the spar. Granted
some small amount of chips may get between the webs, but I do not think this is
a
major concern.
>
>
> It seems like this is something that is EXTREMELY undesirable, but yet I've
> seen nothing in literature about preventing this. I think it might be
> unpreventable.
Possible that someone with a vacuum could suck the chips up as the holes are
drilled.
>
>
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Pine Junction, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Xponder antenna location on 6A |
Listers,
For those that have gone before me where have you located the
transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of
the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the
position aft of the battery box since this would put it about
equidistant from the 3 gear legs.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - A million little details remaining
Pine Junction, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A |
In a message dated 9/17/99 9:03:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
<< For those that have gone before me where have you located the
transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of
the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the
position aft of the battery box since this would put it about
equidistant from the 3 gear legs. >>
Mine is in this general area (centered on the belly and about 3" fwd of the
wing spar). It works flawlessly.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
>To Randall Henderson......
>have you considered drilling a clearence hole in the roll over/wind screen
>bar to allow use of the quick release pins for the 6/6A slider frame?
It may be possible to get by without that. The center of the slider sits
just outside the center of the roll bar and there may be enough clearance,
especially if you grind off the ends of the pins a little. Or if you think
about it ahead of time, drill the frame/roller holes just a teeny bit cocked
so it will miss.
Also don't put the key lock too close to the fwd frame or it'll interfere
(ask me how I know!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor |
In a message dated 9/17/99 5:36:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
panamared(at)brier.net writes:
<< Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more
attention. >>
I believe the GR Instrument is a very useful instrument. I have one that
will be my primary engine instrument and I think recreational flying is about
looking out the window and not staring at engine gages. It is there to warn
me if something is going askew with the engine. I plan to record the engine
parameters on a regular basis and stare at them at home to see if I am seeing
any trends that should be fixed. My EIS has the new box with 4EGT's and
CHT's, RPM, MP,oil T &P, fuel pressure, vacum pressure,OAT, carb throat
temp,voltage,and Fuel flow rate. Sandy and Greg have always been a pleasure
to deal with.
My get home engine instruments are a redundant oil pressure and voltage.
I also have an AOA system that gives me both lights and an oral signal when I
approach a stalling angle which I feel very strongly about if you are going
to do a lot of outside Gawking, especially at lower altitudes. Yea I know you
can feel the airplane( provided your attention is not on something else)when
it gets too slow.
Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "HP-18" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: Charging problem? |
Nope....everything is off.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Charging problem?
>
>Is the flashing tail light on???
>
>>
>>
>>-
>>
>>>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a
moderate.
>>>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right
>>>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to
>>>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a
>>>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter
>>>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new
regulator?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>Kurt
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
SPRUCE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Jig available |
Listers..
I finally have my fuselage ready to come out of the jig, and it's for
sale..$100.00
Located Tampa Bay area, one piece, first time, w/ all brackets, tapcons for
floor mount, bulkhead attachments. also have Van's wing tips, fuel valve for
sale.
Doug Gardner -8A #80717
Palm Harbor, Florida
(727) 784 2600
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
what I did was to contact John at AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore He has answers and all the goodies you will need.
N468TC (resvervd) all wireing done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Vanderzyde <jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net> |
My RV-6A is progressing well. Empenage, and wings are complete. Currently working
on the fusalage. I have an O-390-A3A Lycombing engine that has a damaged carb.
What type of induction system should be considered to replace the original
carb?
John Vanderzyde
London, Ontario.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
In a message dated 9/18/99 8:19:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, WFACT01(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> SPRUCE
>
>
Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's need a
special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Noise while building |
I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I
searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have
a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house
next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage.
I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either
of the airports close by that I could use. My next
recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage
space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments
are appreciated.
Semper Fi
John Lawson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: VM1000 and EC100 |
Glad to see you back Scott.
F1Rocket(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> A few months ago I announced that Team Rocket had an OEM for VM1000 units and
> the EC100 warning and cautionary system through Vision Microsystems. We were
> offering these units at our OEM prices for a limited quantity. We have since
> sold many of these units and many listers have taken advantage of this great
> opportunity. Well, we have just a few VM1000s and EC100s left at our OEM
> price. When they are gone, the price will go up. We will still offer them at
> great prices, but not our OEM price.
>
> Now, the last time that I announced opportunities to save a few hundred
> bucks, it was not received well. This system may not be for everyone. I
> personally think that it is one of the finer systems on the market and have
> purchased one for my Rocket. So, if you are interested, call me at
> 561-748-2429. If you are not interested...hit the delete key. This deal is
> just for those who love aviation and like great prices.
>
> Scott
> Team Rocket, Inc.
> See our catalog at HREF="www.matronics.com/rocket">www.matronics.com/rocket
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
>>
>>
>Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's
need a
>special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't.
>
The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for
use in airplanes. They do not create reliable,
gas tight joints in the electrical connections
between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors
of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all
you will find on any certified airplane. Note
also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier
manufacturer of wire terminating products does
not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I
think it's safe to assume that if such a device
could be sucessfully designed to match the
performance expected by their customers, they'd
certainly do it . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Charging problem? |
>>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate.
>>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right
>>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to
>>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a
>>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter
>>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator?
This symptom is often caused by tiny increases in the
resistance of the wiring between the bus and the regulator.
The increase is measured in milliohms and includes
characteristics of aging of ALL the components in the
path including battery/alternator master switch, circuit
breaker, terminals, joints, connnectors, etc.
Your symptoms are so tiny as to be unworthy of any effort
at this time. A mechanic may replace ONE of the afforementioned
parts and "fix" the problem while in fact, all of the
other parts are still in their aged condition and the
problem may soon return. For older airplanes, a complete
changeout of components in the regulators field supply
path will get you anohter 30 years of service. Sometimes
a new regulator will fix it but it may be worse too.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
Your air compressor will probably creat more noise than anything else.
You will find the riviting to be short bursts. Don't think it will be
a problem for you.
John Lawson wrote:
>
>
> I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I
searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
> noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I
have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
> it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The
house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
> my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage.
I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
> restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at
either of the airports close by that I could use. My next
> recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage
space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
> close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
>
> Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments
are appreciated.
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Parker43rp(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: conical mount bushings |
I feel that the $300 spent for the Lord conical mounts was a worthwhile
investment. The vibration that I experienced at several power settings on my
0-320-const-speed RV-6 with the original solid rubber mounts was practically
eliminated by replacing them with the Lord mounts.
The Lord conical mounts are rubber-metal bonded units of unique eccentric
construction that requires a special orientation of each of the 4 pairs on
the aircraft engine mount bushings. Fortunately, Van has anticipated this
problem! Each engine facing bushing on Van's engine mount is marked with a
1/8" hole that matches with a similar hole in the Lord mount. A !/4" length
of 1/8" rod can be used as a pin to maintain the orientation of each pair of
mounts.
Ray Parker
Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
John,
I feel like i'm a church mouse in my basement . It seems like
everything I do is quiet. >>>BUT<<< when I turn on the compressor it
wakes up the dead at the local cemetery. I believe that the compressor
is the one and only noise concern you are going to have. To that matter,
I offer this. 1. Use a belted, fill to the line with oil yourself, type
of compressor because it makes much less noise than the oilless types.
2. Put a lawn mower muffler on the compressor intake of whatever you
buy. that will quiet it a little bit. 3. If you use a electronic drill
motor you will see very little noise from that and you will use your
compressor a whole lot less. If you use a compressor large enough to
paint the plane, eg 5HP-25 G, it will run only for two to three minutes
at the start of a session and not much after that. When it recharges it
only runs for about a minute. 3. Put the compressor in the basement and
run the hose to the garage. HTH
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
P.S. Your neighbors bedrooms being closest to your house may be a
blessing. Your sessions will likely be during the day or early evening.
Chances are they won't be using the bed rooms during those times. There
has also been proposed on this liist the building of a sound proofed box,
inside or outside the house.
writes:
>John Lawson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: VM1000 and EC100 |
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:50:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
Glad to see you back Scott. >>
Thanks! A kind word goes along way! Much appreciated.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
John:
One thing that you need to realize that 99% of the building process does not
involve much noise at all. Riveting, the biggest noise-maker, is such a
small part of the building process that it can be easily managed from a
noise standpoint. My shop is currently in my basement (at least until I
need to jig up the fuselage) and is directly under the bedrooms of all my
kids. To date, I have not been informed by the spousal unit that I am in
any way a nuisance.....at least when it comes to building my RV!
I would think that you would be able to schedule your riveting times so that
you are not pounding rivets at 2:00am or anything, and perhaps a warning to
your neighbors would be in order when you do rivet. From how you have
described your garage/shop, I don't think there will be much of a problem
anyway.
Best of luck to you.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Hanging flap
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 8:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Noise while building
>
>
>I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level
question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
>noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old,
I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
>it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled.
The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
>my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my
garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
>restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars
at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next
>recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a
storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
>close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
>
>Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints!
Comments are appreciated.
>
>Semper Fi
>John Lawson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) static line routing |
>Where
>do you route the line through the F605 bulkhead? Note, this will have
>a
>tip up canopy, so there is the canopy lock mechinsm to avoid in the
>upper corner of the F605, as well as the rivet pattern in the upper
>corner holding the F605-D, -E, -F, and -G together.
>Thanks,
>
>Steve Allison
>RV-6A
>fitting forward fuselage skins
>
Steve:
I ran mine under the longeron all the way to the instrument panel.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:39:10 AM Central Daylight Time, lm4(at)juno.com
writes:
<<
P.S. Your neighbors bedrooms being closest to your house may be a
blessing. Your sessions will likely be during the day or early evening.
Chances are they won't be using the bed rooms during those times. There
has also been proposed on this list the building of a sound proofed box,
inside or outside the house. >>
Be careful when building a sound proofed box. Make sure the motor gets
plenty of ventilation for cooling purposes.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
When I had my Electronics genius set up my encoder, transponder, he threw
the screw type away that came from King. Said they were useless, bad news,
and other things not fit to print. so I paid for the crimp-ons and have
never had a problem.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continous years
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's
>need a
>>special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't.
>>
> The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for
> use in airplanes. They do not create reliable,
> gas tight joints in the electrical connections
> between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors
> of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all
> you will find on any certified airplane. Note
> also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier
> manufacturer of wire terminating products does
> not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I
> think it's safe to assume that if such a device
> could be sucessfully designed to match the
> performance expected by their customers, they'd
> certainly do it . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List:6A for sale |
I have just completed flying off the 25hr restriction on my 6A. Now, I am
ready to start building my 4th RV. Anybody know anybody that might be
interested in buying mine? Also, I have a beautiful 1968 300hp 4-speed
Corvette to trade for any RV stuff, value about $15,000.For details, please
contact me e-mail.
Jim H.
RV6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: canopy release- another option |
Sorry to be so absent from my own question, but it wasn't my idea (work sucks).
> It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is
> whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it
> on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust.
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
I thought about this, but figured I could make sure the canopy was sitting behind
the spot where the
notch was. For an -8, gravity will keep the canopy from ever sliding forward accidentally.
but I
don't know about an -8A. While opening or closing the canopy, you would just have
to make sure to
keep some downward pressure on the canopy while sliding it past the notch.
>I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget
>to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that
>point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6
>slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in
>the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{
>
>I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the
>game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close
>to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I
>don't think pulling the pins is a bad option.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Now this is something I hadn't thought of, and boy would it ruin your day. I'd
like to say I'd
never forget to latch the canopy, but...
I suppose the notches could be located far enough back that the canopy likely (?)
wouldn't reach
them if it popped open, but that also makes it harder to reach yourself if needed.
I've even
thought of drilling vertical holes in one of the rails to allow a pin to be dropped
in as a stop.
This could be located various places for various reasons, but I can't say that
it would be a perfect
solution.
Now that you mention it, I also need to take a closer look at how the handle might
interfere with
the pins.
>How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut
>out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly
>
>
>By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot
>the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy.
>Charlie Kuss
I thought about some sort of removable top cover for the notches, but it wouldn't
require any fewer
steps than just pulling the pins. If you could make a real nice cover though,
it might be easier to
actuate than the pins.
As I think about it, this might actually be the best compromise. Make a cover
for the top of the
notches that is easily removable in flight. The only time you would likely need
to get rid of the
canopy in a big hurry, and with the least effort, is due to a loss of control
when you're wearing a
chute. I see this as a planned aerobatic session for most people. There are times
when you need to
get rid of the canopy for other reasons, such as an off field landing where the
plane might flip
over. In those cases, you will probably have enough time to release the covers
prior to opening the
canopy. As I imagine it, the procedure would be to have the covers in place until
you plan to start
your aerobatics, then they would be release along with other items like making
sure you're on the
inverted tank, and triple checking your seat belts.
I'll have to think about this some more, especially a method to fashion the cover,
but I already
have a couple ideas. I think I like it :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A |
Put mine in the air filter box after going through archives. Don't know if
it will work well since I'm not flying yet but others have done this
successfully so it may be worth consideration if your not in to external
antennas.
Dave Beizer
RV6A Moreno Valley Ca
Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
Try lining the walls with those inexpensive moving pads. They should deaden
any of the "leakable" noise. Good luck and let us know how it works.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 8:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Noise while building
>
>I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level
question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
>noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old,
I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
>it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled.
The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
>my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my
garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
>restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars
at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next
>recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a
storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
>close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
>
>Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints!
Comments are appreciated.
>
>Semper Fi
>John Lawson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:44:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for
> use in airplanes. They do not create reliable,
> gas tight joints in the electrical connections
> between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors
> of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all
> you will find on any certified airplane. Note
> also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier
> manufacturer of wire terminating products does
> not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I
> think it's safe to assume that if such a device
> could be sucessfully designed to match the
> performance expected by their customers, they'd
> certainly do it . . .
>
>
This is certainly confusing since my new Garmin Xponder and my new IImorrow
GX-60 both come with screw-on BNC's.?.????
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
Binding is not the only issue - the gap serves an important aerodynamic
purpose. I believe this type of aileron are called Frise (sp?) ailerons.
The idea is to flow some of the higher pressure air from the bottom over
the top of the aileron. Too little gap, and the aileron can be much less
effective. I think the plans call out a min/max spec for the gap, if they
don't, call Van's.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
----------
>
> How much clearance do some of you have between your aileron and the gap
seal
> at the closest point? My aileron comes within 1/8 of an inch of the gap
seal
> at the closest point. I don't think it would ever bind up in normal
flight
> as it would take a considerable downward force on the top of the wing
> trailing edge to deflect it. Since the top is the low pressure side, it
> should be fine, but I need some more opinions on this one.
>
> Mark McGee
> Upstate NY
> RV-4
> Finishing second wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
If you leave the garage door closed, you're not likely to have any problem.
To verify this, just have someone stand outside your shop while you have the
compressor and the rivet gun going. They will probably hear one or the
other, but the real question is whether a neighbor inside his/her house would
hear anything.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
I tried installing screw on Coax terminals on my radio and nav and finally
had to have them cut off and the crimp on type installed. Communications
were unreadable and considerable power loss due to poor connection. Could
be due in part to a poor installation by myself, but the crimp on ones
solved the problems.
FWIW.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A
Matthews NC
> > The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for
> > use in airplanes. They do not create reliable,
> > gas tight joints in the electrical connections
> > between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors
> > of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all
> > you will find on any certified airplane. Note
> > also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier
> > manufacturer of wire terminating products does
> > not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I
> > think it's safe to assume that if such a device
> > could be sucessfully designed to match the
> > performance expected by their customers, they'd
> > certainly do it . . .
> >
> >
> This is certainly confusing since my new Garmin Xponder and my new
IImorrow
> GX-60 both come with screw-on BNC's.?.????
>
> Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
Subject: | Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A |
Gary, Mine is at forward right hand corner of cockpit...works fine...no
interference from legs apparent.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A flying toward 100 hours
Gary Zilik wrote:
> For those that have gone before me where have you located the
> transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of
> the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the
> position aft of the battery box since this would put it about
> equidistant from the 3 gear legs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
>
> I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level
> question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
> noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight
> months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about
> 60% of it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) )
60 percent?!!??
You get _60_ percent??!!
Wow!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings rehung, claiming my half.
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Subject: | Reno time trials |
I'd like to report a successful second annual Reno/Stead time trials RV
trip. Four of us flew down in two -6A's from Portland. Highlights
included a minor wheel pant damage (you did pre-flight those mounting
screws didn't you?) at Cedarville, CA (an aircraft junkyard) and some low
flight over the Black Rock Desert (no wild horse sightings this year). As
I buzzed, no, let's say flew over, a congregation of cars in the desert, I
wondered what all those stakes were. It finally sunk in as I was
practically over them, model rockets-"come on, just a little bit to the
left, I'll have me my first RV!". Our other annual event is to "fly over"
the clean-up crew for the "Burning Man Festival", a festival to anarchy
(read this as drugs and nudity as best as I can assess). We flew directly
into Stead on Sunday and viewed the race planes, no admission. I was never
sure if we were actually supposed to be there but no one seemed to care.
Quite the thrill to taxi past Rare Bear on the ramp. Tracy Saylors plane
was there along with many Lancairs and Glassairs and Questairs. We should
start a 160 hp RV class. As far as the rest of the trip, I'm mum and
guilty as charged, but so is everyone else, no place we know like Reno!
Get those planes finished, there's sights to be seen! kevin
(discovered I actually do like to "dance")
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
In my neighborhood, the houses are about 10-12 feet between them. I drill
and rivet till the cows come home with no problems. I even leave my garage
cracked because it supplies my evap cooler. I have an understanding with my
neighbors that the compressor goes off at 9:00 P.M. Works fine..
You should have no probs...just talk to them and see what their schedule is
like..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 1:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Noise while building
>
>I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level
question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
>noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old,
I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
>it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled.
The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
>my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my
garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
>restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars
at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next
>recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a
storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
>close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
>
>Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints!
Comments are appreciated.
>
>Semper Fi
>John Lawson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
Subject: | Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries |
Bruce,
I am involved in the manufacture of battery chargers and am often called
upon to check the capacity of customers lead acid batteries. I believe you
are correct in saying that a full or near full capacity test will take one
cycle of life out of a battery but in applications such as aircraft
batteries, the lost caused by an annual test is insignificant. In an
aircraft situation that offers quick starting and a capable
alternator/regulator for charging, time and high temperatures are your main
enemies.
Batteries not designed for cycling and regularly used as such can have lives
of less than 50 cycles. In this event the test does present a significant
loss. A high quality lead acid battery designed for deep cycling will give
500 cycles or more and in this case the significance drops by a factor of
10. We get involved when one of our chargers is blamed for a golf cart that
quits before the 18th. The capacity test usually proves the need for
battery replacement. Allowing a battery to run flat will also loose a cycle
and much more if it is not promptly recharged.
I have seen a label on a Concord RG aircraft battery that states that the
battery is not airworthy if it fails a well defined test that simulates a
full aircraft load for one hour. This to be done at annual inspection. The
AME that had removed it for charging had never read the label and did not
know what it meant. It also called for preparation and recovery with a
regulated charger that presented another mystery to the professional.
By the way the test could be performed with a test meter, a few headlamps, a
stop watch and of course the regulated charger. A box of tricks imitating
and automating this collection would be nice. This sounds like what Bob is
planning. So are we.
Noel Drew
RV-6
Durban
South Africa
www.hawkins.co.za
--Original Message-----
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Date: 17 September 1999 09:44
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries
>A few years back I did some research into batteries for an underwater
>propulsion device and I learned that the number of cycles that you got
>out of a battery decreased with the percent discharge of the cycles. So
>I am wondering what the effect on battery life is when you discharge it
>to 5-10% of its capacity. Is that the only way to test the battery?
>
>Bruce Green
>Skybolt & RV-8 plans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
With regards to screw-on connectors, let's be sure we're all on the same
page. I am refering to the type that screws together, not the type that
screws directly on the cable as is common to ancient IBM SNA networks. I
apologize if I confused anyone. The ones that came with the GPS and Xponder
are multi-element units that require careful combing of the braid and
soldering of the center conductor. There is a rubber seal that seats on an
internal donut. The elements screw together and are tightened with a 7/16"
or 1/2" wrench. These are the ones that appear better to me than the
crimp-on type since they will seal internally better, hold the cable tight,
and require no crimp tool.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Kachmar" <tkachmar(at)ibm.net> |
Subject: | RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment |
Listers-
Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It looks
to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the
same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign for
me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails me
they want to se them.
Scott,
Thanks for your return call on Fri regarding the trouble with my Wd 822. The
pictures are attached.
Basically there does not look like there is enough material on the "wings"
of the weldment to get edge distance on the bottom row of holes that pass
through the lower longeron. The holes in the picture are only drilled #30
now and have yet to be drilled to #19 for the # 8 flat screws as required by
the plans. One side is worse than the other (#30 hole broke the edge of the
Wd822).
I measured the edge distance on the top row an they are fine. I placed the
Wd 822 as per the plans and instructions-tight against the lower longeron
and forward against the 802A bulkhead. The Wd 822 could not be any tighter
to the lower longeron without removing any material from the bottom of the
steel Wd822-not a good idea I would think.
Everything in this part of the fuselage has gone together well-no forcing or
"wailing" on anything. The project has been without suprises up to now and
everything fit well especially in the fwd fuselage. I can not think of a
reason that this part, the Wd822 should be out of alignment. It nests
tightly against both the lower longeron and the aux. longeron. There is room
for more material on the "wings" without interfering with both longerons.
The plans have a note that stresses at least 1/4 in must remain from the #8
screw hole and the edge of the Wd 822. Ours is less tha half to 0 edge
distange.
The only way that I can see this working is by having a Wd822 with more
material on the bottom part that rests on the lower longeron. I'd buy
replacement Wd822's but I do not see how, with the current part "wing size",
I would be able to mee the restrictions for edge distance as called for in
the plans.
Thanks
Tom and John
80508
817/366-8585
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment |
> Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It looks
> to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the
> same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign for
> me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails me
> they want to se them.
Tom,
You're not alone, but I haven't heard of anyone that had the problem quite as severely
as you seem
to. They are very demanding of minimum edge distance, but I bet there are few
(if any) RV-8's that
meet the edge distance on every hole. On mine, I recall that the upper holes on
one of the arms
violated the ideal edge distance slightly, but not enough to consider scrapping
the parts and
starting over. Like you said, there isn't anything you can do to position the
part any better, the
weldment just isn't quite right.
Good luck,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment |
>
>
> > Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It
>looks
> > to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the
> > same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign
>for
> > me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails
>me
> > they want to se them.
>
>Tom,
>
>You're not alone, but I haven't heard of anyone that had the problem quite
>as severely as you seem
>to. They are very demanding of minimum edge distance, but I bet there are
>few (if any) RV-8's that
>meet the edge distance on every hole. On mine, I recall that the upper
>holes on one of the arms
>violated the ideal edge distance slightly, but not enough to consider
>scrapping the parts and
>starting over. Like you said, there isn't anything you can do to position
>the part any better, the
>weldment just isn't quite right.
>
>Good luck,
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next)
Tom,
Same deal here. But only on a few hole locations. There's a lot of
structural support in that area, so I didn't worry about it. Bottom line:
BUILD DA PLANE. Okay okay, I know that sounds trite, but since you had a
hole break through the edge of the weldment, I would proceed exactly as you
have done and have Van's deal with it. We are finding a few of these lil
gotchas now that many -8's are far along in construction and many are
flying. The main control column is one that is finally being resolved for
good.....well, we'll see for sure when my new part arrives!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
fiberglass o' plenty
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | prop needed 0-320 RV-4 |
From: | "James Freeman" <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi listers
Posting for a friend. Need a fixed pitch prop for a 150HP 0-320 equipped
RV-4, wood or Sensenich metal. Not too large a diameter as this is an older
airframe with the shorter gear legs.
Reply to me off list
Thanks
James Freeman
RV-8 QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
On the PS Engineering PM100II intercom, have any builders bothered with the
AUX jacks? Have you purchased both 2-and-3-conductor shielded cable or just
used 3-wire for everything?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop needed 0-320 RV-4 |
Dale Alexander listed one last month. Sensenich wood, 84" pitch 72"
diameter with 12" backplate, frontplate, spinner and all hardware FAA
certified for $795.00. Prop had 200 hr. He listed a telco number
616-665-9524. It came off an 0-320 and RV-4
James Freeman wrote:
>
>
> Hi listers
> Posting for a friend. Need a fixed pitch prop for a 150HP 0-320 equipped
> RV-4, wood or Sensenich metal. Not too large a diameter as this is an older
> airframe with the shorter gear legs.
>
> Reply to me off list
>
> Thanks
> James Freeman
> RV-8 QB fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
All 3-ers,
After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all
the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed
'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A
difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out
there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new
rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar
distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !)
What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing
builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers
?
Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ??
( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book'
instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! )
Bob (UK)
RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | 9494pyong2187(at)cse.hanyang.ac.kr.Sun, |
19 Sep 1999 13:25:44.-0700(at)matronics.com
Deliver-To:
Subject: | Save Up To 50% on International Calling |
Dear rv-list(at)matronics.com,
Save Up To 50% on International Calling
..for residents inside AND outside the USA
Here is a sample of some of our rates FROM the USA To:
Rates(US$) COUNTRY
0.14/min. Australia
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0.14/min. France
0.12/min. Germany
0.10/min. Hong Kong
0.78/min. India
0.21/min. Israel
0.14/min. Japan - Tokyo
0.13/min. New Zealand
0.40/min. Russia
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Contact us for our low callback rates.
Contact us for more information
and complete rate table at: softpaw(at)bigfoot.com
Please type "info" in the subject line.
Thank You!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: speaking of batteries |
does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans, i
saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something?
scott
burgerlized and vandelized ( spared by floyd but hit bigtime by burglerers )
waiting on new tools
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: New Wings? |
Robert,
I have done the mods on the original Type I wings. What exactly is the problem
area
you are running into? I agree that setting the 3/16" rivets can be tough (especially
is you have a light rivet hammer and bucking bar), but I understand that you can
use
all bolts (instead of the rivets).
Finn
Robert Hodgson wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Robert Hodgson"
>
> All 3-ers,
>
> After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all
> the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed
> 'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A
> difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out
> there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new
> rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar
> distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !)
> What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing
> builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers
> ?
> Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ??
>
> ( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book'
> instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! )
>
> Bob (UK)
>
> RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: speaking of batteries |
I believe you will find the "offset" of the battery is to permit you to run
throttle and mixture control cables from the center post of the instrument
panel past the battery and thru the firewall in the most direct route to
the appropriate position on the carburator slung under the engine without
bends in them.
Ed
>
> does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans,
i
> saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something?
> scott
> burgerlized and vandelized ( spared by floyd but hit bigtime by
burglerers )
> waiting on new tools
> tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: speaking of batteries |
>
>does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans, i
>saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something?
>scott
To make a spot for the engine control cables to pass to the side of the
battery on the way to the firewall.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy |
Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction.
jrdial@hal-pc.org
I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried many things
with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | For Sale (Bede-4) |
From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I have had several replies to my original post and I replied to each one
that I received.
However, we had a power failure (Floyd) that caused me to lose some mail.
If anyone has not received a response from me, please send me another
note, and
I will get back to you within a day.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy |
> JR
I initially had a problem with Nose Wheel Shimmy. I increased the
pressure from the bottom nut on the nose gear to where it took 30 lbs force
to move the nose gear vice the 20 lbs Van calls for. That helped but still
had a shimmy until I fiberglassed the wood strips to the steel gear rod. No
more shimmy.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
> Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction.
> jrdial@hal-pc.org
>
> I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried
many things with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: For Sale (Bede-4) |
hi tony,
i did not read your add for the bd-4 for sale, my friend and i are looking
for one. could you please give me the information on the bd. i'd appreciate
it very much. i live on long island in ny where is Hopewell Junction? we can
always fly up and look at it.
regards
dan carley
dfcpac(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
Subject: | Mixture Arm Bushing |
The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the end of
the control cable is a 3/16".
Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should I use
to make the bushing or can I buy one?
Finally done the baffles!
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . |
In a message dated 9/19/99 10:10:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes:
<< With regard to screw-on connectors, let's be sure we're all on the same
page. I am referring to the type that screws together, not the type that
screws directly on the cable as is common to ancient IBM SNA networks. I
apologize if I confused anyone.>>
I think a lot of the respondents were confused as was I. The "screw on"
types have no place on a reliable installation.
<>
I have had lots of bad experiences in the past with the common "screw
together" BNC connectors that you are referring to. We used them in the USAF
for all of our 'O'-scope and signal cables because the "crimp ons" were not
yet available. We periodically had to cut and reterminate our cables because
over time any normal movement caused the shield wires to slowly break one at
a time and become intermittent. The "crimp on" type supports this area very
well (virtually no relative motion to start shield wires breaking) and I
prefer them. They really are a better mousetrap, but if you must use the
screw ons, leave extra length for future rework.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-6A nose wheel shimmy |
Fellow Listers:
I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind
landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel
shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy
damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of
variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG,
etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the
likelihood of nose wheel shimmy?
Doug
MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler, RV-4 finishing kit
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Reno time trials |
Wanna race?
The Copperstate fly in has a 160hp class for their
Apple Valley to Williams X-C race. Give it a try, very
well organized and a whole lot of fun.
n3773 wrote:
>
> I'd like to report a successful second annual Reno/Stead time trials RV
> trip. Four of us flew down in two -6A's from Portland. Highlights
> included a minor wheel pant damage (you did pre-flight those mounting
> screws didn't you?) at Cedarville, CA (an aircraft junkyard) and some low
> flight over the Black Rock Desert (no wild horse sightings this year). As
> I buzzed, no, let's say flew over, a congregation of cars in the desert, I
> wondered what all those stakes were. It finally sunk in as I was
> practically over them, model rockets-"come on, just a little bit to the
> left, I'll have me my first RV!". Our other annual event is to "fly over"
> the clean-up crew for the "Burning Man Festival", a festival to anarchy
> (read this as drugs and nudity as best as I can assess). We flew directly
> into Stead on Sunday and viewed the race planes, no admission. I was never
> sure if we were actually supposed to be there but no one seemed to care.
> Quite the thrill to taxi past Rare Bear on the ramp. Tracy Saylors plane
> was there along with many Lancairs and Glassairs and Questairs. We should
> start a 160 hp RV class. As far as the rest of the trip, I'm mum and
> guilty as charged, but so is everyone else, no place we know like Reno!
> Get those planes finished, there's sights to be seen! kevin
> (discovered I actually do like to "dance")
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy |
Doug,
While all the variables you mention do/can effect nose wheel shimmy, you
did not mention one and you might check with your friend. Does the nose
gear rod have wooden braces fiberglassed to the strut?? It is my opinion
(no scientific analsys), that this steel rod is like a big spring and if you
perturbe it, it will tend to viberate and depending on the interaction
between the nose gear/ground/gear they can cause the amplification of any
tendency of the rod to viberate. I tried the nose gear without the wooden
stiffeners and had shimmy, I added the wood strips and have had no nose gear
shimmy since.
FWF
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind
> landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel
> shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy
> damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of
> variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG,
> etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the
> likelihood of nose wheel shimmy?
>
> Doug
> MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-6A nose wheel shimmy ( Verbose) |
In a message dated 9/19/99 20:46:18, dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
Fellow Listers:
I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind
landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel
shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy
damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of
variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG,
etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the
likelihood of nose wheel shimmy?
Doug
MN Wing >>
Of course I have some opinions on how to fly almost every phase of flight,
including crosswind landings in the RV-6A.
It is revealing I think, that I have never experienced nose shimmy on take
off. Only on landing. this leads to some conclusions on my part. First I
think this is because the nose wheel is not getting any sideways disturbance
on the take off roll.
Doug, the only (three) times I have experienced nose shimmy have been in
crosswind landings which exceeded 23K. I believe that the phenomenom is
caused by the nose wheel coming in initial contact with the runway in a
slight crab angle and at high speed. The only way I have been able to avoid
it under high cross wind landing conditions is to keep the nose off the
runway until the ground speed is below 60 MPH. This requires a lot of
finesse and an intimate knowledge and feel of just what the pitch attitude is
where the nose is just above the runway. The other problem is psychological.
I find it very hard to not lower the nose immediately after a crosswind
landing, since this is what I did in every other tri gear plane I flew.
Unfortunately those others had nose steering and shimmy dampners. In the 6A,
however, lowering the nose immediately is always a bad idea. It does nothing
good for you, except possibly expose a better field of view.
My conclusions are based on the fact that the times when it did not shimmy
were when I let it down in the streamlined straight ahead position, at a
speed below 60MPH.
I would be happy to hear from others who have tested more than I have but I
am probably on the high side. Have about 700 landings, but only about a
dozen of the really challenging gusty crosswind variety. Some other listers
may have some better techniques and I would be glad to test them out.
I should add that when I did feel shimmy I was able to gingerly raise the
nose back
up, which always stopped the shimmy immediately. I have never got any damage
or even hit the stops, but it definitely is something you want to avoid. I
remind all that Van says to inspect it any time after a hard landing or
shimmy is experienced
So for you that are not yet flying I would recommend not doing your initial
flight test if the crosswind component plus gust is more than 23K,.. unless
you have to.
Disclaimer. I am not currently an instructor and am barely a private pilot.
D Walsh RV-6A 510 hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy |
One person found that a persistent shimmy problem disappeared when he
lowered the tire pressure from about 30 psi to 20 psi. More drag on the tire
keeps it straight????
Ted
RV-6A flying
Prince George BC
----- Original Message -----
From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Sent: September 19, 1999 5:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy
>
>
> Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction.
> jrdial@hal-pc.org
>
> I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried
many things with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Subject: | Mixture Arm Bushing |
Bill,
I had the same problem on my carb. What I did is went down to the hardware
store and bought a 1/4" piece of brass rod and cut it approximately 1/8"
longer than the width of the arm. I then pounded the brass rod into the
hole and the extra length allowed expansion inside the hole, much like a
normal rivet expands in shank diameter when it is bucked. The brass that
was still sticking out was ground flush, and a 3/16" hole was drilled with a
drill press.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
Final touches on fuselage after painting
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mixture Arm Bushing |
BABBET or brass is the bushing material of choice. I went to home depo I secuced
a babbet ( babbet is brass, copper & other junk ) piece & reamed it to size
then spun it with a drill against a file to dress it down to slip into the
arm.....use washers to secure & besure to use the oversize washers for the
throttle attach fitting....
pagan(at)cboss.com on 09/19/99 09:44:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Mixture Arm Bushing
The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the end of
the control cable is a 3/16".
Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should I use
to make the bushing or can I buy one?
Finally done the baffles!
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for |
Pre-dimpled Platenuts
Bob. GaryZ & Gary S, Pat, Gar ,and Ed thanks for all the good tips! First
fiberglss wingtip almost fitted -:) Your inputs will be good for the
archives since the first task builders FEAR FACTOR has alomst disapeared.
I am the only one to take two days for a new task and about three hours
redoing the same task again?
Do not archieve.
Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
Don't forget the RV8 wing failure...it has a new spar design with a hugh
cut-outS for lightning holes. The failed -8 wing design hasn't been fully
explained as of this date. All tests & analysis said basically " it should'nt
of failed " ...........but it failed & everyone seems to have forgotten that.
I
think a -3 wing building is in your future.
Don't Frankstein stitch -4 , -6, -8 , or -9 wings to your -3.........BESIDES
ALL THE WORK WHO WOULD BUY YOUR -3 WHEN IT COMES TIME TO SELL ????
bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk on 09/19/99 04:27:14 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: New Wings?
All 3-ers,
After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all
the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed
'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A
difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out
there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new
rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar
distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !)
What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing
builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers
?
Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ??
( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book'
instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! )
Bob (UK)
RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Bill,
I used Alum tubing...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
____
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mixture Arm Bushing
The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the
end of
the control cable is a 3/16".
Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should
I use
to make the bushing or can I buy one?
Finally done the baffles!
Bill Pagan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Doug,
First, don't over lubricate the parts, especially the Bellville conical
washers. Unless you have a tire that is way out of balance, just setting the
required torque setting should keep it from shimmying.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
____
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy
Fellow Listers:
I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross
wind
landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose
wheel
shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the
shimmy
damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are
lots of
variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel
pant CG,
etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the
likelihood of nose wheel shimmy?
Doug
MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler, RV-4 finishing kit
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Plexiglass bit warning |
Fellow listers,
At Sun-N-Fun this year, I bought a 5/32" plastic bit (made by Hanson) from
Cleaveland Aircraft. I practiced on some scrap Plexiglass first, and it makes
very nice, clean holes. When I actually started drilling my tip-up canopy last
week, I wanted a 1/8" bit so I could cleco everything together. Instead of
ordering one and waiting a week, I went to my local industrial tool supply and
asked for a bit to drill Plexiglass. "Sure thing. That will be 81 cents." It
was the right diameter, and had the steep angle on the point like the Hanson
bit, so I assumed it was the same. It wasn't. I didn't practice with it since
the 5/32" bit worked so well, and the first time I tried it was on my canopy.
It started OK, but then bound up and CRACK! Three cracks radiated from the
hole, but fortunately didn't travel more than 1/4". I stop drilled the cracks
with the Hanson bit and will not have to order another canopy (Whew!)
I now understand about "zero degree rake angle" for a Plexiglass drill bit.
The cutting edge of the bit doesn't "screw" down into the Plexiglass, it
"scrapes" the surface away as it makes the hole.
Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland,
Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local
supplier.
P.S. My IO-320 should ship from AeroSport Power today. Oh boy, oh boy, oh
boy!!!
Danny Kight
Anderson, SC
RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy)
kightd(at)basf.com
EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep.
Sonerai IILT (350 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
Subject: | Re: conical mount bushings |
Mike Wills wrote:
>
Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to
> justify the high price?
>
I've gotten more than twice the life out of the expensive mounts (Lord
J6230-1) and counting.... haven't notice any drop off in the excellent
vibration dampening. Much of my flying is competition-styled aerobatics
and the "cheap" bushings (Lyc 71032) wouldn't last me 75-100 hrs. IMHO,
they're worth it.
Mark
RV4 owner
KAWO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Dennis,
I have a PM2000 intercom in my bird. I did not use the aux jacks because
the unit is supposed to pass through the connections between the mic and the
headset directly into the aircraft radio when the power is off. It probably
is a good idea to wire it in, but I think the chances are very small the
intercom will malfunction to the point that it would break the connection to
your comm radio. You can land without a radio, right?
As far as the shielding on the mic and headset wires go, I used single
conductor shielded wire for each to minimize any effects of crosstalk
between the headset and mic leads.
Bob Japundza
N244BJ RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: PM100II Wiring
> ----------
> From: Dennis Persyk[SMTP:DPERSYK(at)WORLDNET.ATT.NET]
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 3:03:22 PM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: PM100II Wiring
> Auto forwarded by a Rule
>
On the PS Engineering PM100II intercom, have any builders bothered with the
AUX jacks? Have you purchased both 2-and-3-conductor shielded cable or just
used 3-wire for everything?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Plexiglass bit warning |
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland,
>Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local
>supplier.
>
>Danny Kight
>Anderson, SC
>RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy)
I have drilled and clecoed the canopy to the frame using a standard #40
high speed bit running at low rpms. I plan to use a unibit to increase the
hole size as recommended by several listers in the archives. Ive practiced
with the unibit on lots of scrap with no problems but havent tried it on
the canopy yet. I'll know by the end of the week whether or not this works.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Plexiglass bit warning |
A uni-bit works wonders with the plexiglass. I have installed many blank
windshields & side windows with the unibit. Be sure its a warm piece of plexi
before the drilling operation
kightd@basf-corp.com on 09/20/99 01:11:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass bit warning
Fellow listers,
At Sun-N-Fun this year, I bought a 5/32" plastic bit (made by Hanson) from
Cleaveland Aircraft. I practiced on some scrap Plexiglass first, and it makes
very nice, clean holes. When I actually started drilling my tip-up canopy last
week, I wanted a 1/8" bit so I could cleco everything together. Instead of
ordering one and waiting a week, I went to my local industrial tool supply and
asked for a bit to drill Plexiglass. "Sure thing. That will be 81 cents." It
was the right diameter, and had the steep angle on the point like the Hanson
bit, so I assumed it was the same. It wasn't. I didn't practice with it since
the 5/32" bit worked so well, and the first time I tried it was on my canopy.
It started OK, but then bound up and CRACK! Three cracks radiated from the
hole, but fortunately didn't travel more than 1/4". I stop drilled the cracks
with the Hanson bit and will not have to order another canopy (Whew!)
I now understand about "zero degree rake angle" for a Plexiglass drill bit.
The cutting edge of the bit doesn't "screw" down into the Plexiglass, it
"scrapes" the surface away as it makes the hole.
Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland,
Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local
supplier.
P.S. My IO-320 should ship from AeroSport Power today. Oh boy, oh boy, oh
boy!!!
Danny Kight
Anderson, SC
RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy)
kightd(at)basf.com
EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep.
Sonerai IILT (350 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Noise while building |
I found that with the garage door closed, you could hear the riveting noise
on the front sidewalk (about 20 ft from garage). You could not hear the
riveting noise across the street. My garage is finished, no insulation in
the walls, and a steel roll-up door. I only had one complaint from a drunk
across the street but that was because my garage door was wide open and I
had been closing my wings all day. If you keep your doors close and only
rivet during daylight hours you will find you won't have much problems.
Another suggestion is to visit your neighbors and talk to them about this
before you begin. They may be more patient if they understand what is
happening. I don't intend to repeat my mistakes in my last neighborhood.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Lawson [mailto:jwlawson(at)hargray.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 6:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Noise while building
I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level
question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much
noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old,
I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of
it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled.
The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of
my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my
garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the
restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at
either of the airports close by that I could use. My next
recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a
storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are
close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap.
Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints!
Comments are appreciated.
Semper Fi
John Lawson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <Paul.Besing(at)timetrend.com> |
Subject: | Test-Please ignore |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Cabin Heat Mixer |
I am looking for an idea on cabin heat/cooling. My -6A has the two outside
air vents at the corners of the instrument panel, and a heat box fed from a
muff on the exhaust pipe. Both systems worked very well, a lot of heat from
the box and a lot of air from the vents.
Problem is (was) the vents did nothing to keep the feet cool in hot weather.
My firewall is insulated, but still without any air circulating, it was just
plain too hot and stuffy from the toes to the belt. So, I connected the air
supply to the heat muff directly to the cabin heat box. Works great .. Lots
of air and happy feet. But ... even in California it will get cold, soon.
So, does anyone have any great ideas on a heat mixer so that the cabin heat
can be controlled by mixing cool air with the heat muff output? Also, don't
want to do a major modification in adding new holes to the firewall, or
additional push-pull controls into the cabin. There is a "spare" push pull,
the oil cooler door, which I found unnecessary (to date).
I have had two ideas:
Restore the cabin heat muff system to its original configuration. Add
something to deflect part of the fresh air coming out of the vents down into
the footwell area. Will need to be controllable, and point able. I have
sketched some interesting fiberglass parts that would be "in line" with the
vents on the dash, behind the dash.
Second would be a mixer in the engine compartment. Have a "split" air supply
line, one going to the heat muff with a volume control, the other to another
"Y" where the heated air joins it. Then to the existing firewall mounted air
box. It would just act as the Shutoff. Some concerns might be having the
hot air trapped when only cold air is flowing. The normal heat box vents the
hot air when the cabin valve is shut. A separate air supply to the heating
circuit could be used and then allow the hot air to vent when not in use.
This is getting complicated.
Any better ideas?
Bruce Patton
Red 596S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WesternAir(at)aol.com |
Subject: | VOR/ILS Ant. Mount on 6A Vert Stab... |
Quick question for ya'll......Im looking to find a VOR/LOC/ILS ant. (new or
used) that will mount to the top of the VS of a 6A. If you have found one
that fits or have found a way to modify an existing ant. please drop me an
email. Thanks as always...
Kurt, OKC, OK
6A Rudder/VS....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Noise while building |
Hiya,
Before I started building in my garage here in Sili valley where cheap high
priced houses are about eight feet apart, I considered building a box of
sheet rock over my compressor. Then, I decided to try it first by working
only from 7AM to 9PM with doors closed early and late. No problem with
anyone. I asked those either side and they had not even heard anything
unusual. Of course, around here nothing much is unusual! I'm only three
miles from San Jose Intl.
Sound travels readily thru smallest openings so close them. It travels
with greatest difficulty thru heavy solids - especially those that can also
absorb vibration. Lead and rubber maybe or concrete, heavy wood, even
sheetrock. The smaller the box arond the compressor, the less material
needed. So, why box the tank?
None of this tried so your mileage .....
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Baffling
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>Hello Listers
>
>Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it
>is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions
>are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly
>not long enough.
Hi Cash,
You've discovered the undocumented secret - nibble away at it.
Check the archives and especially Jim Cone's article and others comments.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Baffling
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled |
Platenuts
You are not the only one.......
Dick White,
RV-8QB still messing with the fuse
Newport,OR
----- Original Message -----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for
Pre-dimpled Platenuts
>
> Bob. GaryZ & Gary S, Pat, Gar ,and Ed thanks for all the good tips! First
> fiberglss wingtip almost fitted -:) Your inputs will be good for the
> archives since the first task builders FEAR FACTOR has alomst disapeared.
> I am the only one to take two days for a new task and about three hours
> redoing the same task again?
>
> Do not archieve.
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit|||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
It is a given that I will fly my -6 before it is painted, but I'm looking
for suggestions on whether and how to apply some temporary paint or
protective coating in the interim. I'd like to cover some filler (epoxy
w/microballoons) in dings and on and around the fiberglass parts along with
some surface scratches both for aesthetics and protection. Seems like it
would feel better to have some sort of coating on the those areas even if it
has to be removed for the final paint. What I would like to avoid is the
need for a paint booth and a lot of time in surface prep, i.e. wipe it down,
mask it, drag it outside and spray. Some of the possibilities I see are:
1. Clean airframe to bare metal, fly it ugly and wash regularly. By far the
cheapest alternative.
2. Spot prime fiberglass & areas of concern with white or light gray
3. Paint whole aircraft in military matt gray, buy a jumpsuit and swagger a
lot
4. Paint (send out) what I can for final color (tail, tips, fairings) and
leave the rest bare. Base color will be a dark navy blue FWIW re matching
and fading problems.
Has anyone had good or bad experience with this? Other suggestions? If I
use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will adhere adequately
for the short term yet be easy to remove?
Regards,
Greg Young - DWH (Houston)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <Paul.Besing(at)timetrend.com> |
Subject: | Fw: Mail System Error - Returned Mail |
Prime it. No matter what, you are going to have alot of cleaning and
re-filling, sanding to
do..many crevices and such where airborne critters died an untimely death.
I have spoken with builders who waited to paint and they said that they
would paint it first if they were to do it again..too much hassle after it
is flying, IMHO. Once it is flying, I don't want to have to take it down
and apart again to paint it..I wanna fly it!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 11:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Temporary paint
>
>It is a given that I will fly my -6 before it is painted, but I'm looking
>for suggestions on whether and how to apply some temporary paint or
>protective coating in the interim. I'd like to cover some filler (epoxy
>w/microballoons) in dings and on and around the fiberglass parts along with
>some surface scratches both for aesthetics and protection. Seems like it
>would feel better to have some sort of coating on the those areas even if
it
>has to be removed for the final paint. What I would like to avoid is the
>need for a paint booth and a lot of time in surface prep, i.e. wipe it
down,
>mask it, drag it outside and spray. Some of the possibilities I see are:
>
>1. Clean airframe to bare metal, fly it ugly and wash regularly. By far
the
>cheapest alternative.
>2. Spot prime fiberglass & areas of concern with white or light gray
>3. Paint whole aircraft in military matt gray, buy a jumpsuit and swagger a
>lot
>4. Paint (send out) what I can for final color (tail, tips, fairings) and
>leave the rest bare. Base color will be a dark navy blue FWIW re matching
>and fading problems.
>
>Has anyone had good or bad experience with this? Other suggestions? If I
>use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will adhere adequately
>for the short term yet be easy to remove?
>
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - DWH (Houston)
>RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
>"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
>Twain (1835-1910)
>
>
Paul Besing
Account Executive
Time Trend Computers, Inc.
http://www.timetrend.com
(888) 646-8806 Ext 401
(480) 785-8308 FAX
(877) 790-6746 Pager
"The Future of Business Productivity"
________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry list,
I must have been told three times in the last six months where to
get certain nutplates. But, I didn't need them so I didn't write it
down. Now I need a couple of 45 deg. 6-32 nutplates to fasten my
tail-strobe to my rudder and I cannot find them in my catalogs. The
archives were no help at all. Does anyone know where I can find these
things ? Thanks in advance.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fw: Mail System Error - Returned Mail |
Not to mention oxidation oil residue dirt lost flying and many other things
paint it first and touch it up
Pat N598EP RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Temporary paint |
Snip>> If I use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will
adhere adequately for the short term yet be easy to remove?
Regards, Greg Young - DWH (Houston)<From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | left elevator bottom stiffner location |
Greetings listers
I have a question regarding drwg 4PP. I am locating stiffners on the
left elevator and DWG 4PP shows a "long" stiffner located at 5 1/8" from the
edge of the inboard skin(bottom side). On the drawing this is depicted
outboard of where the trim cable slot will be on the upper side of the
elevator.
5 1/8" in from the edge puts the bottom stiffner (depicted as phantom lines
on the drawing) right in line with the trim cable slot.
Will this cause interference with the trim cable? Is the dimension
wrong? When in doubt I always refer to the drawings (cases of
manual/cookbook confusion) and this is the first occasion I've not gotten
the "warm fuzzy" from the drawings.
Any and all help appreciated.
thanks in advance
Rob Baxter
Sarnia RV-8 80970
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
Larry;
There's a fastener outfit in Troutdale, OR that Aircraft Spruce buys many of
their specialty stuff from. I'll try to get the name and address and pass
it along. If anyone on the list knows, please jump in!
>Sorry list,
> I must have been told three times in the last six months where to
>get certain nutplates. But, I didn't need them so I didn't write it
>down. Now I need a couple of 45 deg. 6-32 nutplates to fasten my
>tail-strobe to my rudder and I cannot find them in my catalogs. The
>archives were no help at all. Does anyone know where I can find these
>things ? Thanks in advance.
>
>Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Subject: | Avionics dealers |
My Collins transponder that I purchased used started kicking thje
breaker and I went shopping for a King KT-76A. I thought I would show
September 12, 1999 - September 20, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-gy