RV-Archive.digest.vol-gy

September 12, 1999 - September 20, 1999



      > are out there.  Maybe something can be done to use the fine work that
      > they've already put into the supplemental instructions.  (My many thanks to
      > Frank Justice.) 
      
      I think this is a great idea. I'd be only too happy for Van to use my
      pages to produce a new, better manual.
      
      > Or maybe Van can provide a list of Web addresses in the
      > instruction book as to where these "non-sanctioned", but helpful
      > instructions can be found?
      
      Better yet, why not put the entire manual on the Web? Including links to
      other builders' pages?
      
      Frank.
      (Compiler of the "Bunny's Guide to RV Building"
      <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm>)
      
      -- 
      frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz     Frank van der Hulst
      My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Instrument panel support question (-6 slider)
Listeners, I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on the angle so the panel can be removable. I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel. I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the top flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and rivet it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach? Thanks, Tom Barnes -6 canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: MERFI FLY-IN
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Listers, It has become obvious that I shouldn't have listed my concerns about the cost of the MERFI fly-in. I not only got myself in trouble but others that agreed with me have felt the whiplash of that e-mail as well. While most all of the whiplash has been generated by volunteers of that event or events similar, I suspect there are people also agreeing that the cost of fly-ins are getting out of hand. Oshkosh is a good example of that. I believe only time will tell if I'm wrong about costs exceeding dedication. While Mr. Gally paints a eloquent picture of EAA, I'm sure there are a lot of us that remember why Paul had to step down from his throne. I believe it was a board member in trouble that blew the whistle on him. That's when we all found out one of the reasons why OUR fly-in cost so much and why our dues kept climbing. The MERFI fly-in is a great event and I plan to attend every year. I've got friends over there and I'll pay whatever it takes to be there. If I've hurt someone's feelings I'm terribly sorry. I hope I don't carry enough weight to instill an opinion in someone else without their considering all sides of an issue. I still believe the costs will eventually exceed the dedication we all have toward EAA and EAA events. Jim Nolan N444JN BTW: $7.00 is too much ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: McCauley Spinner
I have a O-360 A1F6D and a McCauley C/S prop from a 1977 Cardinal that I'm installing in an RV6. Has anyone used this prop in a 6 ? I'm trying to figure out if the spinner from a cardinal or something else would work. The prop has no mounting bosses, so the spinner bulkhead has to mount to the flywheel. I need to find out if the cardinal spinner is 13" Dia, and starts 2.25" from the flywheel hub. Chris Brooks RV6 Murfreesboro, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Heating the workshop...
Humidity is good in the winter. But you may not like the lint. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Safe to Fly?
> >> >> .... >> transportation-related accidents. Aviation accounted for 683 deaths, >> with 621 of them in GA. Bicyclists, recreational boaters, and people >> walking in front of trains notched 794, 808, and 831 fatalities, >> respectively. >> >> >> This came over on the AVflash this morning. More people walk in front of >> trains than die in Airplanes. > >I tried the NTSB.GOV site looking for the source of this without success. >Does anyone have a link to the specific data cited above? No, but someone else has reported on this topic at: http://www.aviationtoday.com/reports/safety.htm and specifically the the second page at: http://www.aviationtoday.com/reports/II.htm Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Looking for GPS
I'm looking for a GPS. If anyone has one for sale, let me know. A Vu N985VU ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: HS marking tool
Hi Matt- Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip 5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time! From the PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank Matt Garrett wrote: > > > On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom. Vans > talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more like > a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool. > > Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got a > center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my flanges, > but if I need to be using a different tool let me know. > > Thanks > > Matt > RV6 tail > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: MERFI $7.00 - A REPLY
Jim, Thanks for the post and let me at this time apologize to you for my less than eloquent response. I really did just get home about an hour before I wrote that and I was tired (and cranky) and just didn't want to read something like that after my long but enjoyable weekend. (Sounds like a Clinton excuse doesn't it?) I wanted to write you a direct e-mail and tell you I meant the part about it not being personal but I didn't want to take the chance of saying that wrong too. Anyway it has been bothering me all day because I didn't want to alienate you and do want you to feel welcome at MERFI. Tell you what, If you'll stay over next year, Saturday to Sunday I'll pay for your camping and supply the camp equipment to. I'll feed you and bring the beer so if you say you didn't get your money's worth then we'll all know you really are a cheapskate! :-). As far as all the other arguments going on about the volunteers and the costs, I think we should just drop it for now because we all have a lot of emotions about it. Although some people will pay $7 for a movie or lunch, A FLY-IN I guess doesn't have the same entertainment value. It's really not worth arguing about because we're not going to change any mind's either way. Really looking forward to seeing you again....AL PS...What kind of back seater do you fly with that doesn't offer to pick up the fly-in charges for you anyway??? I'd gladly pay you $14 for a few hours of back seat -4 time and I'd buy the gas too! ;-) > >Al, > I left your reply intact so everyone can read it again. I want you to >know that I feel very humble, little and small after reading your reply. > I not only feel regret for posting that E-mail but I intend to destroy >my computer after I send this, just so I don't make that mistake again. > I know it takes a lot of cash to put on a show and everyone that >donates their time don't always get the thanks they deserve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: whays(at)juno.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Cyl or other troubles
> I highly recommend Triad Aviation if you are in the market for new >Lycoming parts. Jerry, I checked the yeller pages for an address but didn't find the listing. I could have overlooked it. If you have a phone number or URL, I would appreciate the post. Thanks, Wes Hays RV6A Rotan, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic?
Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure on how you did it? -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: How to send mail to specific list??
Did I miss it? What is the address to send list mail to the RV4-List group? Could it be rv4-list(at)matronics.com? Wanted to double check before I hosed up bad. -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Safe to Fly?
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 13, 1999
> >IT'S STILL SAFE TO FLY: Don't we all just love to tell nonpilot >friends >that other forms of transportation are more dangerous than airplanes? >Here are the latest numbers, straight from the NTSB, to back you up. >In >1998 in the United States and its territories, 43,920 people died in >transportation-related accidents. Aviation accounted for 683 deaths, >with 621 of them in GA. Bicyclists, recreational boaters, and people >walking in front of trains notched 794, 808, and 831 fatalities, >respectively. > > >This came over on the AVflash this morning. More people walk in front >of >trains than die in Airplanes. > >That'll raise some eyebrows at the next cocktail party. > > I'm not one to shoot down good info regarding general and sport aviation but... When we look at data like this it must be looked at in the context of what the ratio is between accidents and total # of events. Far, far, far more people ride bicycles, ride in private boats, and walk a crossed the street each day than take a flight in a general aviation aircraft. And travel in automobiles or buses, etc., etc., The sad fact is traveling in a general aviation airplane likely is more dangerous (statistically) than traveling in a car (or most of the other modes of travel). If you compare it to flying commercially on the airlines though... the airline is safer. The key point I always try and educated people with is that a pilot flying a general aviation airplane has an enormous amount of control over whether he becomes part of the accident statistic record or not. People in small aircraft are not killed by drunk drivers, the are not killed by people running red lights or stop signs, or other drivers that have fallen asleep. They are generally killed because of an action or decision that they make (or fail to make). Even the accident record of RV's would be totally different if it weren't for the large # of accidents related to low level flying, buzz jobs, or low aerobatics. If we can all work hard to fly safe we can swing the accident statistics even further (they have been improving over the last few years). Maybe some day flying in a small aircraft really will be safer than traveling on the ground. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: Looking for GPS
Date: Sep 13, 1999
I have Apollo Precedus that I am not going to use in my new project. It is almost new Asking $ 575.00. If interested contact me off line. Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Elevator Trim Tab ----- Original Message ----- From: <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 7:44 PM Subject: RV-List: Looking for GPS > > I'm looking for a GPS. If anyone has one for sale, let me know. > > A Vu > N985VU > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: FlightComm Eclipses for sale
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Fellow Listers: I have 2 sets of FlightComm Eclipse headsets for sale. They are 2 1/2 years old and are in mint condition, used about a total of 130 hours, and upgraded with the Oregon Aero earcups and additional insulation. Perfect working condition, Both units for $200 plus shipping. Contact me off the list (will be out of town until Fri). Upgrading to Lightspeed ANRs. Thanks, Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: Fred Hiatt <hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: Hangar space in MSP for about 15 days...?
Rick, I have some hanger space in Airlake airport, about 20 miles south of MSP. Fred Hiatt, hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Two MORE Email Lists at Matronics...
I agree. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: Jon Paulovich <jonkarl(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: HS marking tool
mark, u not need that tool. i devised my own method of carefully holding a FINE point maker in my fingers and slowly drew lines. i would reccomend a fine tip re of what u use. it helps to be more exact and make sure u draw in the center of rib-guess u know that. good luck, i have just finished hs so stay in touch via e mail if u like. bob paulovich in arkansas Mark Phillips wrote: > > Hi Matt- > > Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close > enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip > 5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that > nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the > part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time! > > >From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank > > Matt Garrett wrote: > > > > > > On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom. Vans > > talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more like > > a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool. > > > > Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got a > > center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my flanges, > > but if I need to be using a different tool let me know. > > > > Thanks > > > > Matt > > RV6 tail > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: MERFI FLY-IN
> I attended the Golden West fly-in this past weekend (sorry I missed you >Brian; tried a couple of times but was always in the wrong place at the >wrong time). Darn. I would have liked to have met you too. I kept trying to get over to the RV parking area but I kept getting snagged for other things. You should have collared one of the orange-vested guys and asked them to call me on their walkie-talkie. I would have made time. >Attended all 3 days and drove 425 miles each way to get there. Thank you for coming. Heck, I want to thank everyone from this list who came. We busted our buns to give you a good fly-in. >And it was worth the time and hassle. Thanks! We need to hear that sort of thing. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Main battery cable size
>Joe >#2 copper is a whale of a cable. It will do the job no questions asked. >Try Skycraft Parts in Orlando Florida (Inbound watts line, call information) >they have the item with teflon insulation good up to about 600 deg. F. I >paid less than $2 per foot for the stuff I got. Check the wire for a part number stamped on it. Hopefully it's Mil-W-22759 or M22759 wire which will be TEFZEL . . . MUCH tougher than teflon. >When you order it also order your braided bonding strap! I suspect the >starter problem described earlier was due to a floating ground or poor >ground in the system. Also don't overlook the expensive rubber engine >mounts that you have installed. They work quite well for vibration >isolation, but do not conduct electricity worth a flip. The engine must be >grounded to the cage! (and the ground strap should be capable of carrying >full starter current. I encourage my readers not to use structure for any ground returns other than incidental, low noise accessories like nav lights, landing lights, pitot heat, etc. Even the strobe power supply can ground locally to airframe. The minus lead of the battery likes to get it's own dedicated 5/16" brass bolt ground right on the firewall where the bolt goes through a forest-of-tabs ground block. Every device behind the panel should ground to this block. A braided strap runs from the engine side of this brass bolt right to the crankcase. Don't install bonding straps around the engine's shock-mount biscuits. A single fat strap to the bolt is all that's needed. The forest-of-tabs ground blocks can be seen on our website catalog along with custom braided ground straps. For an airplane like a 'Fox or 'Star, a single 24 point block inside the cabin is sufficient. The full up 48/24 kit we sell is for very complex airplanes like a Lancair IV. Keeping starter and alternator currents OFF the structure will go a long way toward avoiding/eliminating future noise and/or compass swinging problems. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 13, 1999
"RV-List: How to send mail to specific list??" (Sep 13, 6:44pm)
Subject: Re: How to send mail to specific list??
>-------------- > >Did I miss it? What is the address to send list mail to the RV4-List >group? Could it be rv4-list(at)matronics.com? Wanted to double check >before I hosed up bad. > >-- >--Scott-- >1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 >RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) > >Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! > >-------------- Yes, sorry I forgot to mention that. Use the following syntax to send messages to any of the new lists: Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: Re: MERFI $7.00 - A REPLY
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Al, My unemployed son that thinks someone is going to knock on his door and give him a job of a lifetime. Thanks for the kind words, you know I'll be back with bells on and next time I hope I can stay more than 3 hours. Jim > PS...What kind of back seater do you fly with that doesn't offer to pick up > the > fly-in charges for you anyway ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: "David A. Barnhart" <dave(at)davebarnhart.com>
Subject: Re: MERFI FLY-IN
Mike Wills wrote: >Hope to see some of you at Copperstate next month (driving 300 miles each >way). Come by Aircraft Registration and ask for Dave Barnhart. Regarding MERFI: I've never been to MERFI, so I don't know how it compares to Copperstate. I *can* tell you that as an EAA member, admission to Copperstate will be $7/day ($25 for a 4-day event pass). Don't forget, after you park your airplane, you are a spectator too. Please understand that I'm not flaming anyone, I just want to give you some perspective of the 'other side of the fence'. Some Copperstate trivia: - NONE of us who put on Copperstate get paid a dime. - We are REQUIRED to hire city Fire Dept employyes to act as paramedics. - We are REQUIRED to buy a humungous insurance policy. - We do not take a 'cut' from any of the food vendors (and as a result I think our food prices are some of the most reasonable I've seen) - We pay a HUGE amount for those telephones you use. - We pay a HUGE amount for the buses and drivers you use to take you to-and-from your hotel (the $5 fare we charge covers about one third of the cost). Let's talk about that last one a bit, since I am very familiar with it: The only people who use our hotel shuttles are: you guessed it. The folks that fly in. The Rental Car agencies want $69/day for a Rental car (I know that figure is correct because I personally saw the quote from the agency) Whew!! So we do what we can to cater to your needs. A 47-passenger bus with licensed, bonded, insured driver goes for $85/hr. A 15-passenger van with same driver is $43/hr. So we spend several thousand dollars so *you* can have a convienient, SAFE, way to get between the hotel and the fly-in. Is $7 too much to ask for all that and more? Last year a gentleman in the Ultralight area had a heart attack. If you were at Copperstate, YOU saved that man's life because part of your $7 paid for those paramedics. When the whole event is over, we count the receipts and discover that we have almost exactly the same amount as before we started. We break even. So why do we do it year after year? We sure as hell don't do it for ourselves. I'll tell you why *I* do it. I do it for the eighty year old WWII vet who is so crippled up with arthritus that he can barely walk, but wants to see the airplanes and relive old memories. Knowing that this may be his last chance, I get somebody to cover my post while I borrow a golf cart and give this guy a ride out see the airplanes he has been waiting all year to see. I do it for the second WWII vet who shows me the photo of himself in front of the P-38 he flew, and the wetness in his eyes when he hears me say "Thank you Sir, for your service to our Country". I do it for the ROTC cadet with stars in his eyes. I do it for the kid who just returned from a Young Eagles ride and has that look in his eye that tells me he is thinking that with just a little work, he could be a pilot too. I do it for the spectators, so that they will understand that this magic we call 'aviation' is not as out-of-reach as they thought, and maybe, just maybe, if I can instill the magic in enough of them, this avocation I so dearly love will stop dying a slow agonizing death. And I do it for you, so that you can come together and enjoy the fellowship and cameraderie that only a bunch of people who have built a living breathing flying machine can share. Each year when the event is over, I say, "That's it, I'm not doing that again". But then I remember the look of gratitude on the face of that eighty-year-old WWII vet (and the one on the face of his wife who loves her husband so dearly that the only thing she wants is for her husband to have this moment I have just made possible). Yes, I'll be there again. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart RV-6 N601DB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRawls3896(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Van's Instructions
Same here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: MERFI FLY-IN
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Amen ----- Original Message ----- From: David A. Barnhart +ADw-dave+AEA-davebarnhart.com+AD4- Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 8:54 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: MERFI FLY-IN +AD4- --+AD4- RV-List message posted by: +ACI-David A. Barnhart+ACI- +ADw-dave+AEA-davebarnhart.com+AD4- +AD4- +AD4- Mike Wills wrote: +AD4- +AD4- +AD4-Hope to see some of you at Copperstate next month (driving 300 miles each +AD4- +AD4-way). +AD4- +AD4- Come by Aircraft Registration and ask for Dave Barnhart. +AD4- +AD4- Regarding MERFI: +AD4- +AD4- I've never been to MERFI, so I don't know how it compares to Copperstate. I +AD4- +ACo-can+ACo- tell you that as an EAA member, admission to Copperstate will be +AD4- +ACQ-7/day (+ACQ-25 for a 4-day event pass). +AD4- +AD4- Don't forget, after you park your airplane, you are a spectator too. +AD4- +AD4- Please understand that I'm not flaming anyone, I just want to give you some +AD4- perspective of the 'other side of the fence'. +AD4- +AD4- Some Copperstate trivia: +AD4- +AD4- - NONE of us who put on Copperstate get paid a dime. +AD4- - We are REQUIRED to hire city Fire Dept employyes to act as paramedics. +AD4- - We are REQUIRED to buy a humungous insurance policy. +AD4- - We do not take a 'cut' from any of the food vendors +AD4- (and as a result I think our food prices are some +AD4- of the most reasonable I've seen) +AD4- - We pay a HUGE amount for those telephones you use. +AD4- - We pay a HUGE amount for the buses and drivers you use +AD4- to take you to-and-from your hotel (the +ACQ-5 fare we charge +AD4- covers about one third of the cost). +AD4- +AD4- Let's talk about that last one a bit, since I am very familiar with it: +AD4- The only people who use our hotel shuttles are: you guessed it. The folks +AD4- that fly in. The Rental Car agencies want +ACQ-69/day for a Rental car (I know +AD4- that figure is correct because I personally saw the quote from the agency) +AD4- Whew+ACEAIQ- So we do what we can to cater to your needs. A 47-passenger bus +AD4- with licensed, bonded, insured driver goes for +ACQ-85/hr. A 15-passenger van +AD4- with same driver is +ACQ-43/hr. So we spend several thousand dollars so +ACo-you+ACo- +AD4- can have a convienient, SAFE, way to get between the hotel and the fly-in. +AD4- +AD4- Is +ACQ-7 too much to ask for all that and more? +AD4- +AD4- Last year a gentleman in the Ultralight area had a heart attack. If you +AD4- were at Copperstate, YOU saved that man's life because part of your +ACQ-7 paid +AD4- for those paramedics. +AD4- +AD4- When the whole event is over, we count the receipts and discover that we +AD4- have almost exactly the same amount as before we started. We break even. +AD4- +AD4- So why do we do it year after year? We sure as hell don't do it for +AD4- ourselves. I'll tell you why +ACo-I+ACo- do it. I do it for the eighty year old +AD4- WWII vet who is so crippled up with arthritus that he can barely walk, but +AD4- wants to see the airplanes and relive old memories. Knowing that this may +AD4- be his last chance, I get somebody to cover my post while I borrow a golf +AD4- cart and give this guy a ride out see the airplanes he has been waiting all +AD4- year to see. I do it for the second WWII vet who shows me the photo of +AD4- himself in front of the P-38 he flew, and the wetness in his eyes when he +AD4- hears me say +ACI-Thank you Sir, for your service to our Country+ACI-. +AD4- +AD4- I do it for the ROTC cadet with stars in his eyes. I do it for the kid who +AD4- just returned from a Young Eagles ride and has that look in his eye that +AD4- tells me he is thinking that with just a little work, he could be a pilot too. +AD4- +AD4- I do it for the spectators, so that they will understand that this magic we +AD4- call 'aviation' is not as out-of-reach as they thought, and maybe, just +AD4- maybe, if I can instill the magic in enough of them, this avocation I so +AD4- dearly love will stop dying a slow agonizing death. +AD4- +AD4- And I do it for you, so that you can come together and enjoy the fellowship +AD4- and cameraderie that only a bunch of people who have built a living +AD4- breathing flying machine can share. +AD4- +AD4- Each year when the event is over, I say, +ACI-That's it, I'm not doing that +AD4- again+ACI-. But then I remember the look of gratitude on the face of that +AD4- eighty-year-old WWII vet (and the one on the face of his wife who loves her +AD4- husband so dearly that the only thing she wants is for her husband to have +AD4- this moment I have just made possible). +AD4- +AD4- Yes, I'll be there again. +AD4- +AD4- Best Regards, +AD4- Dave Barnhart +AD4- RV-6 N601DB +AD4- Flying +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: Bryon Maynard <bmaynar3(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: strobes and voltage
I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel support question (-6 slider)
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Good plan, I jogged the top flange of those ribs to tuck under the instrument panel angle. Alex Peterson ---------- > Listeners, > I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the > instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and > f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on the > angle so the panel can be removable. > I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the > f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel. > I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the top > flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and rivet > it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach? > Thanks, > Tom Barnes -6 canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Heating the workshop...
From: Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com>
You might consider a 220V electric heater. Mine easily heated up an insulated 2-car garage to a comfortable working temperature through several Colorado winters. About the size of an extra-large bread box, it hangs on the wall over the workbench. It has a fan and an adjustable thermostat. No fumes, no open flames. (I did turn the thing off when working with anything flammable ). Getting 220 volts to my garage was not a viable option so I made up a very heavy duty extension cord and plugged it into the electric clothes dryer. No significant impact on the electric bill. Bob Hall, RV-6, Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Instrument panel support question (-6 slider)
<< > Listeners, > I have drilled, cut and bent the .063 3/4 x 3/4 angle that ties the > instrument panel to the fwd top skin and the fwd structure f-6107 and > f-6108. I plan to rivet the angle to the skin and install platenuts on the > angle so the panel can be removable. > I would like to leave the angle as one piece and not cut it where the > f-6107's and 8 but up to the panel. > I think all I have to do is to remove a little (3/4") sheet metal on the top > flange of the f-6107's and 8 and then merely butt the angle up to (and rivet > it to) the f-6107's and 8. Do you see anything wrong with this approach? > Thanks, > Tom Barnes -6 canopy >> This is exactly what I did. Worked fine. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: strobes and voltage
> >I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on >my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the >strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and >back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation >when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would >drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong? > > How well charged is your battery?? John Ammeter ammeterj(at)home.com Seattle WA USA ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Subscribe
Date: Sep 13, 1999
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: HS marking tool
Jon Paulovich wrote: > mark, u not need that tool. i devised my own method of carefully holding a FINE > point maker in my fingers and slowly drew lines. i would reccomend a fine tip re > of what u use. it helps to be more exact and make sure u draw in the center of > rib-guess u know that. Actually, I like to use a fairly broad tip (about 3/32" wide line) for the rib centrelines. There's a couple of reasons: 1. It's *much* easier to see. 2. It doesn't matter if you hit the *exact* centre of the rib... you just want to avoid hitting near the edge. 3. If you can see half (or a quarter or an eighth) of the (fat) line, you know which side of the rib to push to get it lined up. If you can't see any of a (thin) line, you don't know which way to go. If the whole hole is over the line, you know you're *exactly* centred (not that that matters, but it sure feels good :-). Frank. -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Heating the workshop...
Here's my solution: For cold weather I use a 17,000 BTU propane heater. It will run for 20+ hours on the 20 pound tank and keeps my (insulated) two car garage pretty warm until the outside temp gets below 35 degrees. These heaters are <$50 if I recall correctly. Colder than that, I add a 110 v portable heater. It also works well to keep the garage warm once I have taken the chill off with the propane unit. In this role will keep the garage nice and warm down to an outside temp of 50 degrees or so. Finally, I cut into the plenum from my HVAC system and ran a duct to the garage. I only open it up when it is really, really cold, OR when I want a little air conditioning in the summer. My workshop is bearable 95% of the year. 100 degree days are far worse than getting a little cool in the winter. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Aileron Bellcrank
Thought I would pass on a hint to those who haven't installed the aileron bellcrank yet. On Plans sheet 19a, it shows the bellcrank centered between the 3/4 x 3/4 angles. An AN3-10 bolt will be used to attach the control tube from the control stick to the bellcrank. Guess what, if you have the bellcrank centered between the angles, the threaded end of the bolt almost hits the lower 3/4 x 3/4 angle! Van's suggests moving the bellcrank off-center towards the top skin so the bolt will have better clearance. Take an AN3-10a bolt and try it out on the plans and it is quite evident. I was hooking up the control tube and found this out after the bellcrank was centered with the spacers. Wish I would have noticed it before the wing was skinned! Not that hard to redo through inspection hole, but would have been easier if the skins weren't on. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lycoming for sale
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Posting for a co-worker. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. 1974 Lycoming 0-320 A2D 773.8 Hrs Since New Currently running on an aircraft. Asking $9500.00 503 - 357 - 6032 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: HS marking tool
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Buy Avery's marking tool. Best $6 you'll ever spend!! Ed Cole ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: HS marking tool > > Hi Matt- > > Wrap enough masking tape around the barrel of a Sharpie pen (close > enough to the business end to still get the cap on) to hold the tip > 5/16" off your workbench when you lay it down- put it up against that > nice straight part laid web-side down on the bench and run it around the > part or along the flange. Perfect centerlines every time! > > From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark Phillips- 6A, STILL building first fuel tank > > Matt Garrett wrote: > > > > > > On page 6-5 of the manual for the HS - 5th paragraph from the bottom. Vans > > talks about using a "marking tool". The one they illustrate looks more like > > a "Hole Finder" than center marking tool. > > > > Anyone else get passed this point without using this Vans tool. I've got a > > center line marker from Avery's I think is doing a good job on my flanges, > > but if I need to be using a different tool let me know. > > > > Thanks > > > > Matt > > RV6 tail > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Copperstate Fly In
Date: Sep 13, 1999
Any builders planning on coming to Copperstate this year? I would like to meet some of you that I have had the opportunity of knowing via the RV-List. In the off times that you are not at the fly in, you are welcome to come by and visit. Anyone up for an RV-Lister dinner or something Friday or Saturday night? Dave's words were right on, for those of you who have not been here. I have had the opportunity to work the fly in myself (as the photographer) the past two years, and have seen the enjoyment from another perspective. Copperstate has a wonderful turn out of RV's and other very beautiful works of art. The warbird display is also very impressive. We would love to have you join us, flying or not! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Van's Directions
Date: Sep 13, 1999
The plans are useable, but........... > > Take a look at the plans that Frank Christen had for the Christen Eagle II > twenty years ago. Outstanding!!! A manual for every kit, subdivided with a > general description of what the task is, description of new skills, an > accurate list of parts need on the next section, tools needed and > preaddressed cards to report back any errors or questions. Isometric > pictures on every page. Change letters on every page, upgrades sent until > you are done with that area. Small parts packaged in plastic boxes with the > part number for each part depicted in the lid of the box when you flipped > the it open. > > Van's plans are useable but they could be much better. I think I learned > just as much building the Eagle without all the guess work and wandering > around the garage trying to figure out what Van meant. You still have to do > the work and use the tools, you just know that what you are doing is RIGHT. > > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Canopy
Hello Listers Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly not long enough. Cutting the forward end to lower the canopy to the roll bar also shortens the total length. The forward end of my canopy is 4" from the front edge of the canopy skin. The average distance is 1.5" to 3." I've also had to raise the roll bar 1/4" to mate with the canopy. For those of you preparing to do the tip up canopy, make an initial cut at least 67+".I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut off wheel. Took it slow, worked good. Cash Copeland RV6QB 60075 N46FC(reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Bellcrank
--- RV6BLDR wrote: > > Thought I would pass on a hint to those who haven't installed the > aileron bellcrank yet. Ye Gads!! Thanks for mentioning this, Jerry! My bellcranks are centered, but I haven't started skinning yet! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings rehung, looking for the box with the cleco pliars... Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: tim underwood <undeee(at)netscape.net>
Subject: Need Input on So.Cal. Fields, (Moving From Reno)
Can anyone give me input on user friendly fields in LA area. I completed and have been flying my RV for a year now. Moving to LA for my next engineering contract. I am also considering hangars with apartments in them, so input on these types of fields would also be nice. Thanks, Tim Underwood RV-6 N843D, 210 mph cruise @ 8500 Density w/All stock van's fiberglass. Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic?
That sounds neat. I would also like to know about the trim tab. Earl RV4 wannabee bout 2/3 done Scott wrote: > > > Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end > of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to > implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the > goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure > on how you did it? > > -- > --Scott-- > 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 > RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: wet vacuum pump plumbing
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Hello Listers, I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes. Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340 and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up, but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some unforeseen problems. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Van's instructions
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I for one am not comfortable with "Making it work". I totally agree that the innovations Van's has made in his kits are great. However, I don't see anything wrong with making it easier. Not all of us want to redesign the wheel. Dick White, RV-8QB ----- Original Message ----- From: David A. Barnhart <dave(at)davebarnhart.com> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 5:20 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Van's instructions > > >I want Tab A to fit in > >Slot B without having to bend tab A and cut slot B and rivet a tab C on the > >back because it needs to go into slot D a year later but I have no way of > >knowing that unless I read the whole manaul ahead of time. > > And that illustrates my point exactly. Five years ago, you had to figure > out from the plans that you had to *fabricate* Tab A and Slot B, but your > building experience up to that point would have prepared you well for that. > The non-prepunched tail kits taught us to think like *builders*, not > *assemblers*. > > Now with all the pre-punching and quick-building, that part of your > education is missing, and you are unprepared for the fact that you need to > think ahead about C and D before committing to A and B. > > In some ways, we were better off before the pre-puched and quick-build kits > came along. > > I'm not saying "life was better in the good old days...". I think every > one of us with completed RVs has heard Ken Scott tell us "make it work" at > least once. I'm just saying that I think we were better prepared to do so. > > > Best Regards, > Dave Barnhart > RV-6 N601DB > Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Wingtip trimtab:
In a message dated 9/14/99 8:25:00, e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net writes: That sounds neat. I would also like to know about the trim tab. Earl RV4 wannabee bout 2/3 done Scott wrote: > > > Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end > of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to > implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the > goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a procedure > on how you did it? > Dean Hall did a wing tip trim tab on his RV-4 years ago and still has it along with a myriad of other doo dads. I agree it really looks slick. He said he thought he would need it to get it trimmed up before engaging his autopilot. I got the impression that he felt it was not a real good thing, and probably wouldn't recommend it. It is not as effective as you would think, and is not necessary for most planes. The simple bias spring sold by Van's on the other hand gets good reviews and is cheap. I love it. Not sure it would work with an auto pilot servo though. Also a trick on bent or warped wing tip trailing edges: You can slit the trailing edge with your cut off wheel, then it will move up or down about a quarter inch. Re glue and epoxy it and you are in business. This is really useful in tweaking that last bit so the tips line up with the ailerons, which should be lined up exactly with the wings, using the huge templates. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Ground Systems was: Main battery cable size
>The point here is that ALL of the metal in the airplane should be at the >same potential. This includes wings, tail surfaces, ailerons, flaps, just >whatever is made out of metal. > >There is a current AD note on the Beech King Air series to install ground >straps on the rudder of the airplane. The reason for this is that static >electricity would build up charges on the rudder and then discharge to the >fuselage. In the process of doing this the hinges would become eroded. > >Now our little GStars are not in the same speed range, and will not be >flying through the same kinds of weather, but the point here is that you do >not want different parts of the airplane to be at different potentials. > >What Bob suggested earlier is a fine way to go about doing that, but I >suspect it is a bit of overkill. In our case we have a bonding strap that >runs from the engine to the cage to the wings to the vertical tail and to >the horizontal tail. To accomplish this a #2 copper wire runs from one of >the starter mounting bolts to the lower left side engine to cage mounting >bolt. The negative pole of the battery is grounded to the cage using a #2 >copper wire to the bolt that secures the cage to the shell underneath the >baggage compartment floor. Short pieces of braided strap ground the wings >to the cage and one long strap runs from the bolt under the baggage >compartment floor to the tail section of the airplane. Were talking about two different issues here. The "bond-everything- to-everything-else mania swept through the Ez crowd about 10 years ago. These efforts are to elminate and/or reduce noises in radios due to static build up on surface of aircraft that causes tiny currents to flow in not-so-well connnected joints like control surface hinges. I've yet to see any confirmed case where this was useful on a homebuilt and I doubt that it's going to show up on anything less than a Lancair or Glasair in the 200 kts range. The DC POWER DISTRIBUTION ground system is another thing all together. Here, we're trying to (1) reduce the resistance in the starter cranking pathways to the lowest practical value, (2) avoid running battery currents through structure . . . especially welded steel where unwanted magnetization can take place, and (3) avoid the fabrication of ground loops where alternator and/or battery currents flowing in airframe can induce noises in other systems not well thought out with respect to installation and grounding. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Biddle, Dave S." <DSBIDDLE(at)Norstan.com>
Subject: MERFI $7.00)
Date: Sep 14, 1999
For info on Copperstate, in Mesa Arizona, coming October 7-10, check out: http://www.copperstate.org Forums, Exhibitors (Vans will be there), Airshow, FREE Parking!, Lots of planes to check out - warbirds, antiques, ultralights, homebuilts - (LOTs of RV's). It is well worth the $7. If you can make it, you will not be disappointed. I have been to both Copperstate & Oshkosh the last 2 years. Copperstate is a great event. Scott McDaniels from Vans will be there. I for one want to thank him personally for all his thoughtful input to this list. See you there. Dave Biddle 6A-QB N432DG Canopy cutting / drilling done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Directions
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Rich, In all fairness, Frank Christen was already a manufacturer/inventor of the very successful piece of equipment called the "Tempress Scribe " which was a device used here in Silicon Valley to dice up semiconductor wafers into the individual chips for assembly into packages. This gave him the resources and experience to put together such a complete package. As Ken Scott of Van's says "This kit requires your active mental participation" or roughly translated....It's your aircraft, build it any way you want! Ed Cole RV6A Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Rich Crosley <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> Date: Monday, September 13, 1999 10:45 PM Subject: RV-List: Van's Directions > >The plans are useable, but........... >> >> Take a look at the plans that Frank Christen had for the Christen Eagle II >> twenty years ago. Outstanding!!! A manual for every kit, subdivided with >a >> general description of what the task is, description of new skills, an >> accurate list of parts need on the next section, tools needed and >> preaddressed cards to report back any errors or questions. Isometric >> pictures on every page. Change letters on every page, upgrades sent until >> you are done with that area. Small parts packaged in plastic boxes with >the >> part number for each part depicted in the lid of the box when you flipped >> the it open. >> >> Van's plans are useable but they could be much better. I think I learned >> just as much building the Eagle without all the guess work and wandering >> around the garage trying to figure out what Van meant. You still have to >do >> the work and use the tools, you just know that what you are doing is >RIGHT. >> >> >> Rich Crosley >> RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)megsinet.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Instructions
Logistically not possible. Go look at the RVs out there and you won't find a single one the same. In the abscence of a 'standard' RV, what should he pick for inclusion into the instructions. Then there are the mad builders such as myself that decide to add something like a heated pitot - should he include instructions for that, too? What about all the possible avionics and power combinations? C'mon, folks, his instructions for the basic airframe are adequate, as hundreds of flying RVs attest. When you need some hand-holding (and we all do), then turn to the RV-list or an A&P. I thought I knew a fair bit about aircraft, but I've learned a lot by asking the necessary questions since I've started this project. PatK - RV-6A Richard White wrote: > Perhaps not all should be building an airplane, but they are... It seems to > me to be a safety issue. If someone chooses to build an RV they ought to > have every advantage available. If it takes a step by step manual, then so > be it. I don't know of any way to screen potential builders. The manual > needs to suit ALL experience level of builders. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Van's moving
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I talked to Ken ?? (not Scott) at the Golden West Fly-in this past weekend. He said that Van's is moving the entire operation to Aurora State. Anyone know anything? -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 svanarts(at)unionsafe.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: wet vacuum pump plumbing
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Hello Listers, I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes. Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340 and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up, but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some unforeseen problems. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: wet vacuum pump plumbing
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Hello Listers, I have a Garwin wet vacuum pump that came with my O-360. I purchased an oil separator from Wicks, which has an inlet, an outlet, and an oil drain. The oil drain is plumbed into the #3 cylinder oil return line. The breather outlet on the engine is plumbed into the inlet side of the separator, and I used a tee to plumb the vacuum outlet port into this hose. The outlet of the separator runs down to the exhaust exit area and points at one of the pipes. Last night I was looking at a wet vacuum pump installation on a Cessna 340 and noticed that the engine breather was not plumbed to the separator, only the wet vacuum outlet was. My question is, is it OK to use a tee in the fashion I did? Is it OK to plumb the drain to the #3 oil return line? I can't see any problems with things not working the way I have them set up, but I thought I'd ask the engine types out there if I might encounter some unforeseen problems. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Van's moving
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I heard that they were moving there next spring, because of the need for more space and a better airport. ----- Original Message ----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 9:23 AM Subject: RV-List: Van's moving > > I talked to Ken ?? (not Scott) at the Golden West Fly-in this past weekend. > He said that Van's is moving the entire operation to Aurora State. Anyone > know anything? > > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > svanarts(at)unionsafe.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Van's moving
i talked to doug gardener this week he just got back from van's and mentioned them moving, maybe he can enlighten the list, whatcha say doug? scott over the flu skinning fuse watching hurricane floyd with my fingers crossed tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Canopy
Harbour Freight has a 9 dollar small die grinder. Best 9 bucks I've spent. There are lots of cutting chores that any die grinder can help with. An electrical version of a die grinder or just a BIG dremel tool is a ROTO-ZIP tool. Uses cut-off disks and cuttting drills. A Very hi quality & very nice tool. Available at Home Depo. JusCash(at)aol.com on 09/14/99 03:17:19 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Canopy Hello Listers Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly not long enough. Cutting the forward end to lower the canopy to the roll bar also shortens the total length. The forward end of my canopy is 4" from the front edge of the canopy skin. The average distance is 1.5" to 3." I've also had to raise the roll bar 1/4" to mate with the canopy. For those of you preparing to do the tip up canopy, make an initial cut at least 67+".I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut off wheel. Took it slow, worked good. Cash Copeland RV6QB 60075 N46FC(reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Van's moving
I talked to Scott (can't remember his last name), from Van's, at the Golden West Fly In this past weekend. He told me the reasons for the move are. The need for more space, the combining of engineering/research with manufacturing and a paved airstrip. It seems there are times when they can't fly the airplanes of the grass when it is wet. BTW is any one from the SF Bay Area planning to go to Copperstate? Cash Copeland RV6QB #60075 N46FC(reserved) Oakland, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Canopy
Thanks, have a RotoZip out in the truck. Didn't think to use it. Cash ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: MERFI $7.00)
> >For info on Copperstate, in Mesa Arizona, coming October 7-10, check out: > >http://www.copperstate.org > >Forums, Exhibitors (Vans will be there), Airshow, FREE Parking!, Lots of >planes to check out - warbirds, antiques, ultralights, homebuilts - (LOTs of >RV's). >See you there. > > >Dave Biddle >6A-QB N432DG >Canopy cutting / drilling done Might also mention the unofficial Vans banquet that happens at the Italian restaurant right outside the airport gate on friday evening. Since its unofficial some RVers dont hear about it. It has happened the last 4 years so I assume its on again this year. Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Canopy
I did not have a die grinder so I tried to use my air drill. No >Good, it didn't turn fast enough. Used my Dremell tool with the metal cut >off wheel. Took it slow, worked good. There is lots of info in the archives about canopy installation. One of the often repeated warnings is to make sure to use a slow turning motor with the cut-off disc that is provided to avoid heating the plexi too much. The problem is that if the plexi melts stresses are introduced into it. I just didnt want to risk it. I used my drill motor. It was slow going but there was no melted plexi. Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
><<< Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the >rear end of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier >to implement than cutting up an aileron .. > >And safer IMHO. I, too, would be very interested in hearing about the -4 >referenced above as I have been contemplating a "tip tab". If you saw that at OSH, you probably saw Dean Hall's airplane. He had an article on it in Sport Aviation (see archives) on his mods. In talking to him, he said the one mod he would NOT do again was the wingtip trim tab: too much work and weight for the desired effect. I have no tab and Suzie Q flys hands off. I keep things in balance by switching tanks every half hour. Van's spring and lever trim mechanism mounted on the stick is simple, light and doesn't require you to hack up a part of the airplane that shows. Just my own opinion............... Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Flying FAST................. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: str(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Van's Instructions
Come on guys! If we had perfect instructions and parts made with 0.0001" tolerances, we would still make mistakes. It's the nature of the beast, and by the way, it's what also makes it so interesting. Another way to look at it- if it was so easy to do, everyone would be doing it, and we would all have to go off and find something more challenging to do. Sam Ray 80262 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
In a message dated 09/14/1999 9:36:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bbds(at)means.net writes: << Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the rear end of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to implement than cutting up an aileron .. snip.... >>> >> I did the first flight and all of the flight testing on a RV6A with a trim tab in the wing tip. It was about two inches by six inches. It has no effect on trimming the aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an aireron trim tab drives the aireron. david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 (n44df) started ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Instructions
Date: Sep 14, 1999
IMHO... I personally don't see anything wrong with making something better. If Van can make his plans/instructions better, I think he ought to go for it. It looks like a lot of people would appreciate it. Why not make a great kit even greater? Dick White 80636 ----- Original Message ----- From: <str(at)us.ibm.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 1:21 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Instructions > > > Come on guys! If we had perfect instructions and parts made with 0.0001" > tolerances, > we would still make mistakes. It's the nature of the beast, and by the way, > it's what also > makes it so interesting. Another way to look at it- if it was so easy to do, > everyone would > be doing it, and we would all have to go off and find something more challenging > to do. > > Sam Ray > 80262 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com>
Subject: RotoZip for fiberglass?
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Someone suggested using a RotoZip for cutting fiberglass. Has anyone had good luck with this? I bought a RotoZip with the cowl in mind, and I must say I was disappointed. I used the most versatile cutting bit and it did *terrible*. It basically started stalling and burning about 1" into the cut. So if anyone has had better luck than I, which bit did you use? Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME Finishing Kit... Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators http://www.skybound.com/BARV http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com>
Subject: Re: Cyl or other troubles
Date: Sep 14, 1999
>Jerry, >I checked the yeller pages for an address but didn't find the listing. I >could have overlooked it. If you have a phone number or URL, I would >appreciate the post. > >Thanks, >Wes Hays >RV6A >Rotan, TX To all interested in Triad Aviation, the pertinent info is as follows: Triad Aviation 3439 S. Aviation Drive Burlington, North Carolina 27215 800-334-6437 Fax 336-227-1258 E-mail: triadavi(at)netpath.net All of their parts are Lycoming products and come with all of the appropriate documentation (FAA form 8130-3). You do need to have part numbers if possible. Be sure to ask for Bonnie. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com>
Subject: HS-606 Trimming
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I have found that I don't have to trim the HS-606 at all as suggested by the plans for the fiberglass part to fit in there. Anyone else not have to trim? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
This trim tab I was talking about is only about 1" wide by the width of the rear of the wingtip...hardly noticeable! I would think there wouldn't be much weight or complication by using a MAC servo to run it. I would rather trim it than switch tanks so often...I still get a bit nervous switching in-flight and always do it when over a nice field or highway. Just call me Captain Tuna, Chicken of the Skies :) Thanks for the input, though...that is the very best part of these lists! scott RV4 tailfeathers in hand > Van's spring and lever trim mechanism mounted on the stick is simple, light > and doesn't require you to hack up a part of the airplane that shows. > > Just my own opinion............... > > Michael > RV-4 N232 Suzie Q > Flying FAST................. > -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
Eh? How does an aileron raise or lower a wing by moving up or down? Seems like if the "wingtip tab" was lowered it should force that wing up and vice versa...but if it doesn't work I guess I don't need one! (May not anyway as I plan to build everything perfect so it isn't required :O ) Scott DFaile(at)aol.com wrote: > It has no effect on trimming the > aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an > aireron trim tab drives the aireron. > > david faile, fairfield, ct > mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor > eaa technical counselor/flight advisor > christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) > rv6 (n44df) started > -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: MERFI $7.00
In a message dated 9/13/99 4:42:42 PM Central Daylight Time, jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes: << I have volunteered for the past two years at MERFI and have never had to pay. Did I miss something? John Kitz N721JK Ohio >> No but maybe I did ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Subject: The most enjoyable part
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Hey Texas RV'ers; I'm currently out there evaluating and looking for an RV to have as a little brother to my A35 Beechcraft. How about giving me a brief rundown of the most enjoyable part of your construction process. "Finishing" and "flying" doesn't count. Thanks Al ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I am about ready to install the Angle of Attack ports in the wing of my RV-8A. Since the wings aren't closed yet, I can get at most any location to install them, but the place that looks most convenient for future access in the last bay of the wing, right behind my Duckworks landing light. (I have one in each wing). The manufacturer of the AOA sensor suggests installing the ports right in front of the main spar on an RV, which means that they would be several inches back from the landing light lens. The problem is that the landing light lens fits under the skin, and has a small piece of weatherstripping under it, so it doesn't really flush up at all with the skin. I have looked at other installations, and I think mine is about as good as most. My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it flushes out on the outside? Thanks for your thoughts! Terry Watson RV-8A wings - tanks and aoa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Subject: sorry guys!
Date: Sep 14, 1999
RV'ers Sorry about the last note to the Texas Rv'ers, I sent it out to the wrong list! I'm not even getting the matronics mail anymore! Thanks and Blue Skies. Al ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
The amount of roll authority of tab (or aileron) mounted on the fixed structure is roughly proportional to the tab (or aileron) area, times the angle of deflection, times the distance from the aircraft center line. This tab would have an effectiveness that is a very tiny fraction of what an aileron has. I suspect that this tab is simply too small to have a noticeable affect. Also, that area is probably pretty heavily affected by the wing tip vortex, so maybe the airflow is too dirty to be of much use for this purpose. My advice - stick with Van's quick and dirty little spring. If you have to have a moving tab, bite the bullet and put it in the aileron. A small tab will move the aileron quite a bit, so its effectiveness is much larger than a similarly sized tab on the fixed surface. Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! > >Eh? How does an aileron raise or lower a wing by moving up or down? >Seems like if the "wingtip tab" was lowered it should force that wing up >and vice versa...but if it doesn't work I guess I don't need one! (May >not anyway as I plan to build everything perfect so it isn't required :O >) > >Scott > > >DFaile(at)aol.com wrote: >> > It has no effect on trimming the >> aircraft. In fact, it adds drag when either up or down. Understand that an >> aireron trim tab drives the aireron. >> > > > david faile, fairfield, ct > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor
I have seen at least one case where airflow was seemingly affected by very small surface imperfections. We were doing flight testing on a modified business jet, with a small radome under the forward fuselage. We found an intermittent side to side yawing motion at higher speeds. We thought we might have vortices that were coming off the radome. So, we taped some pieces of yarn on with duct tape to make some tufts, and went up with a chase aircraft and a video camera. The side to side yawing motion had disappeared. We removed the tufts, and the motion was back. Somehow duct tape and yarn was changing the airflow. Another aircraft I am familiar with has the stalling angle of attack decrease significantly with a very small lip of protruding sealant on the upper leading edge. Something small enough that you can feel, but not see unless you look pretty closely. So, my advice (worth what you paid for it) is to look hard for another location if you can't make the lens flush. The airflow in this area could be "poisoned" by the landing light. My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it). Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! > >I am about ready to install the Angle of Attack ports in the wing of my >RV-8A. Since the wings aren't closed yet, I can get at most any location to >install them, but the place that looks most convenient for future access in >the last bay of the wing, right behind my Duckworks landing light. (I have >one in each wing). The manufacturer of the AOA sensor suggests installing >the ports right in front of the main spar on an RV, which means that they >would be several inches back from the landing light lens. > >The problem is that the landing light lens fits under the skin, and has a >small piece of weatherstripping under it, so it doesn't really flush up at >all with the skin. I have looked at other installations, and I think mine >is about as good as most. > >My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar >from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the >plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it >flushes out on the outside? > >Thanks for your thoughts! > >Terry Watson >RV-8A wings - tanks and aoa > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Seward747(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Duckworks landing lights & AOA sensor
In a message dated 9/14/99 5:59:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tcwatson(at)seanet.com writes: << My questions: Will I have significant turbulence just in front of the spar from the landing light lens? Has anyone tried grinding down the the plexiglass landing light lens for the thickness of the skin so the it flushes out on the outside? >> I've given given some consideration to the AOA sensor location as well. Even the slickest installation of the Duckworks landing light lens will probably have some turbulent airflow behind it. With that in mind, I'm going to try installing them just inboard (inch or two?)and opposite side of, the rib closest to the landing light. Hopefully, this location will be far enough away, spanwise, to eliminate turbulent airflow problems, yet still allow internal access, through the rib lightening hole, with the Duckworks lens/light assembly removed. Doug Seward -4. wings, landing light, AOA sensors ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ARC(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: RotoZip for fiberglass?
Hi, I bought a rotozip a couple of months ago for the same reason, to cut my canopy in the future. I work on jap motorcycles and today I needed to cut some Plexiglas on the bike. I tried the rorozip and cut it with no problem. GREAT. You just need a steady hand or a guide. hope this answers your question. Bob Cornacchia RV6 working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Duckworks landing lights
Date: Sep 14, 1999
>My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you >decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns >out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of >destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it). > >Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) Kevin, My Duckworks lens also did not come out very well, and crazed around a few holes. That's how I learned what cold temps do to plexi! So, I'm planning to rivet a flange around the perimeter of the cutout in the wing, and then fit a piece of polycarbonate face shield material. I checked the thickness of the face shields offered in the Vallen Safety catalog, and most are .040". So, it might work out OK if I can space the flange down a wee bit to allow for the extra thickness of the lens. It seems that the standard Duckwork's setup will really turbulate the airflow. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: making primer lines?
I am replacing a leaky primer line on my 0-360. One side gets flared. no problem. That's done. The other end gets a ball and sleeve type fitting which is apparently soldered on. I removed the fitting from the old line with a propane torch and cleaned it up. The problem is that it won't fit over the new 1/8" line. Question - Is it supposed to easily slide over the new line with a thin film of solder inside? If so, I'll need to reduce the OD of the tube a bit. It will still be a tight fit. Can you recommend a way to get the solder to flow inside the fitting? Or, does it need to be heat expanded to fit over the line and then shrink around it when it cools? Basic questions perhaps; but I've got to learn somehow. Thanks, Andy > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Moen" <c.moen(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV Tail and Wing Jig Available in Maryland
Date: Sep 14, 1999
One Tail/Wing Jig available for its next home. This jig served me well in producing a straight RV-8 tail and pair of wings. It consists of two steel floor to ceiling jack posts, wood horizontal tail jig beam, steel fittings and Avery tail mount kit. I figure I have $50 dollars in materials in it and would offer it to the next owner for that. I live in Chevy Chase, Maryland and may be contacted offline at c.moen(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: For Sale
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Getting close to the completion of my RV-6, so I have to sell one of my other homebuilts, my Bede-4 N58266. The engine is a Lycoming O360-A1F6D with 5 hours SMOH (869 hrs since new). I replaced the dual Bendix magneto with a Slick 4373 and a Electro Air electronic ignition. Prop is a constant speed Hartzel with 63 hours SMOH. All AD's on the engine and prop have been complied with. Price $22,000 This would be a good airplane for someone who is a few years from completing their RV (4,6 or 8), as it would give them something to fly and keep current while they are building. They can then install the engine and prop in their RV. For additional information, please contact me off the list at: tcastella(at)juno.com or phone me at (914) 227-8527 Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (fuselage now out of jig) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Craig Hiers <"craig-rv4"@http:/www.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Cyl or other troubles
> All of their parts are Lycoming products and come with all of the > appropriate documentation (FAA form 8130-3). You do need to have part > numbers if possible. Be sure to ask for Bonnie. You must be getting a kick-back from Bonnie! Thanks for telling me about AG-Flight in Bainbridge. I took my first ride today, man was it rough the wind was blowing about 20KTS and it was not down the runway. The instructor seems to be just the right kind of person for the job. I always wondered what a spin was like.....I don't any more. I figured it would be some kind of terrifying manuver......not so. I felt light in the seat and was looking up at the ground for a moment or two but I was not un-easy about it, go figure. Target date to fly the -4 Saturday the 25th. I think I'll take off and fly it for about 2 hours then try to land, that way if I wreck the thing I'll atleast have two hours in it. Looks like I'll make T-ville in it, assuming I don't wreck it. Craig 9.8 hours and climbing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: VM1000 and EC100
Hello Listers, A few months ago I announced that Team Rocket had an OEM for VM1000 units and the EC100 warning and cautionary system through Vision Microsystems. We were offering these units at our OEM prices for a limited quantity. We have since sold many of these units and many listers have taken advantage of this great opportunity. Well, we have just a few VM1000s and EC100s left at our OEM price. When they are gone, the price will go up. We will still offer them at great prices, but not our OEM price. Now, the last time that I announced opportunities to save a few hundred bucks, it was not received well. This system may not be for everyone. I personally think that it is one of the finer systems on the market and have purchased one for my Rocket. So, if you are interested, call me at 561-748-2429. If you are not interested...hit the delete key. This deal is just for those who love aviation and like great prices. Scott Team Rocket, Inc. See our catalog at www.matronics.com/rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: making primer lines?
Date: Sep 14, 1999
> > > >The other end gets a ball and sleeve type fitting which is apparently soldered >on. I removed the fitting from the old line with a propane torch and cleaned it >up. The problem is that it won't fit over the new 1/8" line. > >Question - Is it supposed to easily slide over the new line with a thin film of >solder inside? If so, I'll need to reduce the OD of the tube a bit. It will >still be a tight fit. Can you recommend a way to get the solder to flow inside >the fitting? > Andy, A new fitting (no solder) slides easily over the line assuming the line is deburred after cutting. If there is too much solder inside your old fitting I would think it natural that it would not fit. It takes a lot of heat to silver solder these fittings on, like an acytelene (without oxygen) torch. I imagine if you go ahead and apply enough heat to the fitting you will be able to get it to go on. I found the fitting needed to be very red before the silver solder would flow. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Subject: Copperstate Dash
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Any RV'er going to run in the copperstate race??? Our local EAA Chapter will be helping for the first time. So far, they have been keeping us in the dark as to our duties. Anyway, as a builder, I will try to be of help to any RV'ers. Sorry, I don't have a place for you to stay. Will try to help with transportation to and from the airport and hotel. E-mail me directly at tg1965(at)linkline.com Tom Gummo panel, cowling, engine, and gear ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Doyon" <rich_rv6a(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Van's Instruction
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I'm not in the 'problem areas' as I'm still building my empennage, but I personnaly finds the instructions adequate so far. Sure thing, the format is somewhat heavy as it looks like a book, but the plans are OK. For working with the "10% of the tech pub" in the aviation industry, I can tell you that's one thing I don't want to see in my garage!!! It would sound wonderful to some to have some step by step holding hands instructions and other visual aids (what bout the Orndoff's video??? I got them and they're great!), but it's quite cumbersome for every day work in fact. I don't look forward either to a 1000+ pages manual for the empenage... The main strike against such format of detailled instructions, would simply be that it's a 'frozen' format. Once you got a sequence set in concrete (don't get me started on cost of maintenance and configuration control!), it's hard to customize it to accomodate every builder's ways of doing things, or simply allow enough leeway in it for a builder to install something of his own, or even fully understand what he's trying to do. If you can't picture it in your head just by looking at what's already available, a dummy proof set of instructions will get you nowhere further. We tried it, and it work great on guys that had a day or two of experience on the shop floor. Anything above that, and it actaully slowed them down as they had more to read, and surprisingly enough, it didn't improve the quality 'across the board' as the supporters of the idea thought it would. On the other hand, it DID improve some areas that were known as to be problematic (refer to 'supplemental instructions'). Now back with more simplistic instructions, things got back to 'normal', with the exception of specific places. Now, from the list, there seem to be some concerns on particular areas of the building process, but oh surprise, these come along with solutions (local group newsletter, Justice's instructions, tribal knowledge, etc...). Sure, Van's could (and surely will!) improve some of his instructions and/or drawings. But don't get too detailled either. While some revised instructions for the canopy or things like that will receive a warm welcome, a major overall is not required. Like my father says, you're never really stuck in life, it's simply a little longer sometimes. Anyhow, it would take the 'fun' out of building a RV! :) Rich, -6A, empennage still somewhere in a box. just got in Wichita, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: RV6A mechanical fuel pump drain
Listers, How are you 6A builders routing your mechanical fuel pump drain hose? My initial idea was to route rubber fuel line from the bulbed, 45 degree, 1/4 fitting I put in the drain hole on the mech. pump, across the firewall (with appropriate support) and down to the gascolator bracket which we put on the right side of the firewall. In this way, we could use the hole cut in the bottom cowl for both checking the gascolator and the exit for the fuel drain. I would transition from the rubber hose to a short length of 1/4" o.d. aluminum tubing to exit the hole. I would solidly attach the 1/4 tubing to the side of the gascolator bracket. The only downside to this method is it seems that possibly the hole would have to be a bit larger as you do need to fit in a fuel sampler on the gascolator. The other possibility would be to solidly mount the tubing on the center line of the firewall and possibly bend a 90 degree in aluminum tubing and point the tubing down the center line of the bottom of the fuselage. Of course, this would place the exit between the ends of the exhaust pipes. If the end of the 1/4 tubing were to extend a couple of inches aft of the firewall, I thought it might be better in the remote chance of a broken mech. fuel pump diaphram. This mounting arrangement would possibly make removal and installation of the bottom cowl a bit easier. Any other ideas? Gee, it was a lot easier on the six---just run it down the gear leg. Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lycoming for sale
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Updated message to include times to call - > >1974 Lycoming 0-320 A2D > >773.8 Hrs Since New > >Currently running on an aircraft. > >Asking $9500.00 > >503 - 357 - 6032 >Please call evenings (pacific time) or weekends. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Sep 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab, etc
>I would rather trim it than switch tanks so often...I still get a bit >nervous switching in-flight and always do it when over a nice field or >highway. Just call me Captain Tuna, Chicken of the Skies :) I like switching tanks every 30 minutes for several reasons. Keeps the airplane in trim; makes me aware of how much time I've been in the air and how much fuel I have burned. At the same time I write down in my little flight log EGT/CHT, oil temp, IAS, TAS etc. Helps me keep track of stuff while I fly. I usually just keep the log on cross country flights, but always switch tanks every 30 minutes. Compulsive? You bet. Just how I like to fly. Been doing it for years, never had an engine quit switching tanks. But I, too, look for the field to flop down in if the fan stops after the switch. But then I am USUALLY looking for that field.......... Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape
Hello RVers: This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic?
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 15, 1999
> Wondering who had the RV4 with the "aileron trim tab" on the >rear end >of the fiberglas wingtip? I REALLY like that idea! Looks easier to >implement that cutting up an aileron (much easier to glass over the >goofed wingtip and start over). Do you have pictures and/or a >procedure >on how you did it? > I don't know who's it was, but I can tell you it doesn't work. A normal trim tab drives a control surface which then does the trimming. This type of trim tab normally doesn't have enough trimming power to even be noticable. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate Fly In
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 15, 1999
>Any builders planning on coming to Copperstate this year? I would >like to >meet some of you that I have had the opportunity of knowing via the >RV-List. >In the off times that you are not at the fly in, you are welcome to >come by >and visit. Anyone up for an RV-Lister dinner or something Friday or >Saturday night? > The Fifth(?) annual Copperstate RV get together is on friday night (Oct 8) at the Cosmo's Italian resturant just outside of the airport. For more info ask for Marv or Maxin Horn at the Young Eagles booth at the fly-in. See you there Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape For Aircraft
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip trim tab
Date: Sep 14, 1999
>Does anybody know of a way to bend the glass tip instead? If that can be >done, it could be also be a substitute for pinching/pounding the aileron >trailing edge... the pounding part especially sort of runs against my >grain. Maybe if you think about it a little it won't seem so bad. Ideally you just want both ailerons to be straight, i.e. a flat surface all the way back to the trailing edge. If you are flying with a "puffy" aileron, it will make for a heavy wing but also be less efficient, so why try to correct for it with some other means instead of fixing it? Pinching (with fingers if its just a but off, with hand seamers if its more) is just what it takes to get it this way, or if it's overbent, pounding can take it out but that's harder. I had some success with sticking a round shaft in the end and pulling it against the inside if the radius in an area that was overbent near the end. Jerry VanGrunsven coached me on this -- he came over and said "don't tell me, let me guess" then laid a straight edge at several places on the ailerons and promptly declared "they're both pretty puffy, but the left one's more so, so your right wing is heavy, right?" Sure enough it was (damned heavy in fact). I went ahead and went up and down BOTH ailerons with the hand seamers and got the surfaces as straight as I could (without making the radius too small of course). After that, no more heavy wing. Fantastic! Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: The most enjoyable part
one of the most enjoyable parts about building the RV6A is the people you meet, the expert advice from others that have completed theres and are flying, the help and friendship developed The Chapter members (19) that go out of their way to lend support, manual and emotional when it is needed. Tonight I was honored to host the monthly meeting at my home where my RV6A is being built in my backyard work shop. It was great to have about 30 members attend the meeting to hear of ther porjects and to showoff mine. with about 14 projects being built in Lubbock ranging from tiney two, cozy , RVs Spencer air car , classair, lancair , there is a wealth of information and all are willing to share there time and knowledge with you if you jusk ask. The sharing of tools ideas.extra parts, experiences ,including frustrations excitement and the eventual thrill of others completing and flying , knowing you had a part in their challenge is almost as rewarding as completing your project. Had a real great time tonight. Terry Cole N 468 TC (reserved) starting canopy soon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Charles Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The most enjoyable part
TColeE(at)aol.com wrote: > > one of the most enjoyable parts about building the RV6A is the people you > meet, the expert advice from others that have completed theres and are > flying, the help and friendship developed The Chapter members (19) that go > out of their way to lend support, manual and emotional when it is needed. > Tonight I was honored to host the monthly meeting at my home where my RV6A is > being built in my backyard work shop. It was great to have about 30 members > attend the meeting to hear of ther porjects and to showoff mine. with > about 14 projects being built in Lubbock ranging from tiney two, cozy , RVs > Spencer air car , classair, lancair , there is a wealth of information and > all are willing to share there time and knowledge with you if you jusk ask. > The sharing of tools ideas.extra parts, experiences ,including frustrations > excitement and the eventual thrill of others completing and flying , knowing > you had a part in their challenge is almost as rewarding as completing your > project. Had a real great time tonight. > Terry Cole > N 468 TC (reserved) starting canopy soon > > Terry, your absolutely right!!! This is what's it about. It has nothing to do > with our income, the size of our house---but the lives we touch along the > way!!! Enjoy, Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Subject: Leading Edge Skin Gap
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Help, please. I started drilling my leading edge skins last night, and I started on the top side (with a perfect butt-splice between the leading edge and top main skins) and worked my way over the leading edge to the bottom side. But as I neared the bottom main skins, I realized that I will have a significant gap between the leading edge skins and the bottom main skins, on the order of 1/16" to 3/32". Some of this (about 1/32) is due to the fact that the main skins somehow got drilled a little below the 1" line, but I'm still short on the skin side. The skins appear to hug the ribs nicely and all is square (including the rib flanges). It seems a little late to redo all the drilling, so my question is really what to do about the gap. Can this get filled in with bondo or equivalent? Does this imply an error so profound as to justify starting all over with new leading edge skins? I'm getting all stressed out here. Also, one other question about sequencing again. Once I complete the riveting on the leading edge section, how do I put in the bolts that mount the ribs to the spar? The rivets are pulled, so that's OK, but how do I access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them properly? I know what you all are thinking: you think this is hard, wait until you start on the tanks. To be sure, I'm nervous about that too. Thanks for your help. Peter Christensen RV-6A Wings Pittsburgh, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Canopy
Date: Sep 15, 1999
For those of you who come after me. I trimmed my canopy a half-inch at a time until it fit. I did not trust the overall length mentioned in the manual. I did not have to raise or lower my roll bar. I used my air drill for all cutting. I chucked the cutting wheel that comes with the finishing kit and turned the pressure regulator up to 90 pounds indicated. It worked just fine. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- Hello Listers Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it is. Cutting is not the problem. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: 14v vs. 28v
>> I think the only place that wire size is an issue is the high amp >> portion of the system & then only because the large wire gets >> stiff & hard to route. This applies to systems with batteries in >> the fuselage, etc. On the other hand, all new airplanes are going >> to 28v systems, as far as I can tell. Most of all "new" airplanes have been 28v for decades, the type certificiated ones that is. The trend was started when Cessna observed that buying one kind of thing in one voltage version only was less expensive than buying the same thing in two versions. Even the lowly C-150 went to 28v. It had almost nothing to do with weight since all of the 28v hardware with the exception of wire was the same weight as the 14v stuff. It was 95% driven by purchasing economics. Many of my readers building big Glasairs and Lancairs would LIKE to go 14V but their engine came with EXPENSIVE 28V alternators and starters installed. EVERY voltage sensitive part they have to purchase is uniquely "aircraft" which will never be priced according to consumer driven economics nor will they experience the product improvements we enjoy in an unregulated, free market atmosphere . . . >> . . . . This will surely affect the >> future availability of avionics for replacements & etc. Remember, >> the avionics manufacturers can pack more "stuff" on 28v boards than >> they can 14v boards & can create smaller packages for transmitters. The differences in electro-goodies between voltages is trivial to none. The major drivers of volume and weight have to do more with packaging and human interface aspects. A transmitter, for example, can be quite tiny except for the need to get heat out of it. While a 28v transmitter may be a couple of percent more efficient than its 14v cousin, it's by only a very few percent . . . given that the output stages have similar efficiencies and output power, their size doesn't materially change with voltage. BTW, most small signal stuff in avionics needs to run a voltages much below 14v . . . this is good and bad . . . it allows for power conditioning to take all the noises and perturbations off DC power before it's applied to sensitive electronics . . . it also drives up parts count and volume of the system without much effect on its overall efficiency. >> The only items from the auto industry are the alternator & the >> battery & perhaps some lights. . . . . and relays, electronic controlled fuel injection systems, ignition systems, fuel pumps, blowers and fans, contactors, and most important LOW COST SEALED GAS RECOMBINANT LEAD ACID BATTERIES. . . . . .The voltage regulator is now mostly >> in the alternator. 28v alternators & batteries cost about twice as >> much. Even the emergency starting issue is perhaps not such a big >> deal as batteries can be hooked in series, even while in autos. >> This would require two autos, however. This is all about a dead >> heat right now, it seems to me, but don't forget that it is very >> easy to step down voltage for lights & etc., . . . not really. It's the same problem for lights as it is for radios . . . power conditioning of some type between the bus and the working parts of the product. More parts count and less efficiency. Your nav lights are the most energy consuming system on the airplane . . . while a starter takes a lot of POWER for 5 seconds (200A X 11V X 5S = 11K watt-seconds) the nav lights are 6A X 14V X 7200S = 604K watt-seconds for a two hour flight). Having a 30% efficient starter isn't nearly as bad as having an 80% efficient lighting system when you start tallying up the ENERGY budget required to utilize each system. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding question...
>I have already run a #2 ground wire from my battery to the cage of my >Glastar and intended to use the cage as the rest of the ground pathway >for the alternator and starter, specifically and for the rest of the >equipment generally. You're not doing anything different that a few tens of thousands of production airplanes have done for decades with no perceived problems. The reason we suggest alternatives to tradition is based on the numbers of airplanes I've rented over the years that have ground system influences that would only surface if you were looking for them. From time to time, somebody will write to one of lists with a noise problem or a magnetic effects problem induced by choices in system architecture. >You suggested that a #2 cable be run right to the >firewall for this purpose. My question: if I ran a #2 cable from the >ground cable already installed at the rear of the cage, using a proper >connector, to the firewall, would this be as good as a single cable as >far as magnetic influences etc. If you want to lower the probability of future difficulties, you run a single conductor from battery (-) to firewall ground stud and disconnect the conductor that goes to airframe at the battery's mounting location. The battery (-) wire should follow the same path as the (+) wire for as far as is practical. Drive ahead with what you have and see how it works out. I hesitate to recommend any kind of rework when the system is not unlike a whole lot of airplanes already flying. My recommendations for ground system architecture are based on the best we know how to do today and are guaranteed to eliminate probability of some kinds of problems in the future and results in a quieter electrical system. What you have now may well perform to your expectations. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: "Silverstein, Chuck" <chuck.silverstein(at)LMCO.COM>
Subject: RotoZip for fiberglass?
FWIW Dremel makes an adapter kit that includes a base and a couple of cutter drill bit for about $15.00. Very much like a small Rotozip. Have been practicing cutting plexi before I tackle the canopy. RV6 fuse -----Original Message----- From: RV6ARC(at)aol.com [mailto:RV6ARC(at)aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 8:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RotoZip for fiberglass? Hi, I bought a rotozip a couple of months ago for the same reason, to cut my canopy in the future. I work on jap motorcycles and today I needed to cut some Plexiglas on the bike. I tried the rorozip and cut it with no problem. GREAT. You just need a steady hand or a guide. hope this answers your question. Bob Cornacchia RV6 working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: RV6A mechanical fuel pump drain
In a message dated 9/14/99 23:06:16, bskinner(at)vcn.com writes: << Any other ideas? Gee, it was a lot easier on the six---just run it down the gear leg. Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY >> Bob I have been very happy with my installation. In retrospect I think I stumbled on a good solution. I used clear plastic tube but any should work. Ran it to the right side and along the bottom cowl line to a point near the outboard edge on the right side. I drilled a hole with the unibit which was a force fit for the plastic line. It then protrudes into the slipstream about a quarter inch. You insert the tube through the hole when you install the bottom cowl. If you forget until later, you can reach in through the oil check door to push it through the bottom cowl floor. Easy to inspect, service replace, etc. Try it you'll like it. D. Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap
Peter, >Help, please. >I'm getting all stressed out here. Don't get stressed. It's on the bottom. 1/16 to 3/32 isn't too bad. Keep building. Use your new experience to get your next one closer. Be sure that your LE is strait/plumb. (tooling holes & level. Like in the manual) >Also, how do I put in the bolts that mount the ribs to the spar? >how do I access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them? Through the lightning holes. It's not hard. Probably the nuts will be on the main skin side of the spar. >wait until you start on the tanks. I'm nervous about that too. Don't be. They're not too bad. A little messier. Just one more thing you think is going to be hard, that turns out to be just one more task completed. Have fun. Keep building. Don't get stressed until you do the canopy!! (just kidding... :)) Larry Olson Cave Creek, AZ RV6 - Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Vans Instructions
Date: Sep 14, 1999
I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent. I started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were 11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the instructions back then too. But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price, preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to become easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look for the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives. Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to, but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say to you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV flying. You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV will give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!! Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332 Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: Grounding question...
From: John @AAMR/AirCore We're back. There is a method that is proven and easy to do for grounding your system once you've run your ground wire to the fire wall stud. It's called a block and can be found at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page24.html or go to our main index at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page45.html and click on section #6. If you have any questions there is an E mail link on all our pages Regards, John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light)
> >So, my advice (worth what you paid for it) is to look hard for >another location if you can't make the lens flush. The airflow in >this area could be "poisoned" by the landing light. > >My landing lights didn't turn out as flush as I had hoped. If you >decide to modify the lens, let us know what you did, and how it turns >out. I considered doing that, but got scared off by the thoughts of >destroying another lens (I cracked one when trimming it). > >Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) >Ottawa, Canada >http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html >http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! > I looked at both Proprietary Systems and LRI AOA indicators when strolling through the exhibitors area at Golden West this past weekend. I really wasnt planning on getting either one, just window shopping. Well Ive decided to buy an LRI and chose them for several reasons. They offer both analog and digital (LEDs) displays. If you choose digital you have a choice of a round instrument that fits a standard 2.25 hole or there is a new option of a long narrow display which will be available soon (I think the dimensions were .75 X 4.00). The LRI uses a probe very similar to the Piper blade style pitot many folks are using. I plan to install the probe in the same location/opposite wing as my Piper pitot. The LRI probe puts the required ports for the instrument away from the wing in clean air. Discontinuities in the wing surface are not a problem for the LRI probe. There is an option available for probe heat for those who would fly IFR. The digital instruments are extremely easy to calibrate. Bring the airplane up to the verge of stall and push a button. The guys at LRI offer good price discounts to RVers. There have been a number of group buys via the list several times in the past. The digital unit was cheaper than the low end unit that Proprietary Systems sells and IMHO provides a better display. These guys are also on the RV list so if I have any of this wrong Im sure they will jump in and correct me. And if you have other questions about their products just post to the list and Im sure youll get an answer. If there are any advocates of the Proprietary Systems design who know of some advantage of their system that they feel makes it superior to the LRI please let me know. Whatever you choose, Ive been convinced that AOA is something I want in my airplane. There have been several recent accidents in the RV community that appear to be stall/spin related. AOA is cheap insurance. Mike Wills RV4 canopy (and re-figuring instrument placement in my panel) willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vans Instructions
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Well done Ken, I could not have expressed my feelings any better and I agree wholeheartedly with you on this subject. Sure the books could be improved, but lets be honest, RV kits have the best bang for the buck that you can get on the market today. Perseverance while building only makes flying an RV that much more enjoyable. To anyone who has doubt about how great RV's are, get someone to give you a ride, then you will see for yourself. I spent 7 years building my airplane and believe me, after that first flight, I knew that it was worth it. Rv's are great airplane. Marc Guay RV-6A Flying since Sept 98 (120 hours) C-FWUV Ottawa Canada >From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Vans Instructions >Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:39:23 -0700 > > >I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent. >I >started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be >presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were >11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things >much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the >instructions >back then too. >But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the >same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When >you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and >another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most >popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price, >preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of >paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to >become >easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their >projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look >for >the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives. >Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I >am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to, >but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van >an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and >possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor >instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider >what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say >to >you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV >flying. >You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV >will >give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built >with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!! > >Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332 >Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: "Silverstein, Chuck" <chuck.silverstein(at)LMCO.COM>
Subject: Vans Instructions
I don't really want to get in this food fight, but enough is enough! -----Original Message----- From: Ken Hoshowski [mailto:ve7fp(at)jetstream.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 12:39 AM Subject: RV-List: Vans Instructions I have been following this thread with interest and alarm to some extent. I started my RV6 in 1988, Serial # 332. I know the instructions could be presented better, but they are one hell of a lot better now than they were 11 yrs. ago. I know that often one extra sentence would have made things much easier to understand. I know that we complained about the instructions back then too. But!!!!!! Do you want a $10,000. kit like you want now or do you want the same kit for $20,000. with step by step instructions. Your choice??? When you consider that there are approximately 2500 completed kits flying and another 6-8000 under construction this should tell us that Van has the most popular kit airplane on the market. It is popular because of price, preformance, factory support, looks and resale. Us old builders sort of paved the way, things are definitely easier now, and will continue to become easier. You can now find builders close by to talk to and look at their projects, and you have this valuable list. If you have a question, look for the answer either through Vans hot line, other builders, or the archives. Pretty nice to have resources like Bob Nuckolls available as well. What I am saying is that sure we can improve the instructions and should try to, but this list is not the place. Talk to Van's directly. I feel we do Van an injustice by discussing this where a lot of wantabe's read this and possibly decide not to build an RV because of what they perceive to be poor instructions. Fellows, we have the best kit, bar none when you consider what you get, for the price you pay. At the risk of getting flamed I say to you, quit your bitching, get back to pounding rivits and get that RV flying. You will soon forget about those instructions or lack thereof. Your RV will give you great pleasure and immense pride when you look at what you built with your two hands. Thanks Van!!!!! Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Ser. # 20332 Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8,1993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CTonnini(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Air Flow Performace
I' have been using Air Flow performance for the past five years and i have nothing but good thing to say about their equipment. It is very easy to install and very reliable. I have about eight hundred hours on mine including one trip to South America if you need any more information call me at 800-582-3125. Claudio RV4 Purple Pasion ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: Grounding question...
In a message dated 9/15/99 7:06:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes: > aeroelectric.com> > > > >I have already run a #2 ground wire from my battery to the cage of my > >Glastar and intended to use the cage as the rest of the ground pathway > >for the alternator and starter, specifically and for the rest of the > >equipment generally. > > You're not doing anything different that a few tens of thousands > of production airplanes have done for decades with no perceived > problems. The reason we suggest alternatives to tradition is > based on the numbers of airplanes I've rented over the years > that have ground system influences that would only surface if > you were looking for them. > > From time to time, somebody will write to one of lists with > a noise problem or a magnetic effects problem induced by > choices in system architecture. > > >You suggested that a #2 cable be run right to the > >firewall for this purpose. My question: if I ran a #2 cable from the > >ground cable already installed at the rear of the cage, using a proper > >connector, to the firewall, would this be as good as a single cable as > >far as magnetic influences etc. > > If you want to lower the probability of future difficulties, > you run a single conductor from battery (-) to firewall > ground stud and disconnect the conductor that goes to > airframe at the battery's mounting location. The battery (-) > wire should follow the same path as the (+) wire for as > far as is practical. > > Drive ahead with what you have and see how it works out. I hesitate > to recommend any kind of rework when the system is not unlike > a whole lot of airplanes already flying. My recommendations > for ground system architecture are based on the best we know > how to do today and are guaranteed to eliminate probability > of some kinds of problems in the future and results in a quieter > electrical system. What you have now may well perform to your > expectations. > > > Bob . . . > > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== > < Independence Kansas: the > > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > > < Your source for brand new > > < 40 year old airplanes. > > ================================ > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > From: John @AAMR/AirCore We're back. There is a method that is proven and easy to do for grounding your system once you've run your ground wire to the fire wall stud. It's called a block and can be found at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page24.html or go to our main index at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page45.html and click on section #6. If you have any questions there is an E mail link on all our pages Regards, John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light)
RE: LANDING LITE LENS TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN AND SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE, MAKE A CHEAP WOOD BLOCK THE SHAPE OF THE AIRFOIL AND DRAPE THE DROOPY LEXAN AROUND IT AND LET IT COOL. THIS PROCEDURE WORKED WHEN I WAS RACING CARS AND SHOULD WORK WITH THE LANDING LIGHT LENS IF YOU ARE USING THE VAN"S WING MOUNT LITE. BILL BRUTON RV-8 TAIL FEATHERS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel H Kight <kightd@basf-corp.com>
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: lexan landing light lenses
>TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN AND >SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE, MAKE A CHEAP WOOD BLOCK THE SHAPE OF THE >AIRFOIL AND DRAPE THE DROOPY LEXAN AROUND IT AND LET IT COOL. I made my landing light lenses out of 1/16" lexan and you don't have to make a wooden block. Just heat it with a hair dryer on high heat (I used my wife's 1500 watt blow dryer) and bend it with your hands. Use gloves because it gets hot enough to be uncomfortable. It took 2-3 minutes of continuous heat and hand pressure to form my lenses. They look great and I have a total of $21 invested in both landing lights. (The framework is made from scrap aluminum, and the 3" reflector and 100 watt H-3 halogen bulb are from JC Whitney.) Danny Kight kightd(at)basf.com Anderson, SC EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep. Sonerai IILT (350 hours) RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, CS prop (trimming and drilling the canopy, and waiting for my engine from Bart) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: SPAM SPAM SPAM
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Where is all this SPAM coming from.....AAMR and now dental ads....damm! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: AOA sensor - LRI or AOA either one
Mike, I can run a group RV buy on the LRI units anytime I can get a few guys together to buy them. I hope you are getting the RV price. You should be because Bill and Jim are great guys and honest too. If I can add one more thing to what you mentioned. The LRI system is completely separate from your pitot system. Because of this it may be a good idea to get the heater probe *just in case* you ever accidentally get into ice. You will still be able to use your LRI on approach even of your pitot is iced or plugged. (Could happen if you use those small unimproved strips). We all agree that you should have something for AOA whether it's Proprietary Software Systems or the LRI. If you don't have a stall warning device you should have either one of these. Now that's just an opinion so please don't start any flame wars. AL PS: Did you see Bruce Bohanan used an LRI unit on his new Time-To-Climb record setting RV derived airplane?? > > These guys are also on the RV list so if I have any of this wrong Im sure >they will jump in and correct me. And if you have other questions about >their products just post to the list and Im sure youll get an answer. > If there are any advocates of the Proprietary Systems design who know of >some advantage of their system that they feel makes it superior to the LRI >please let me know. Whatever you choose, Ive been convinced that AOA is >something I want in my airplane. There have been several recent accidents >in the RV community that appear to be stall/spin related. AOA is cheap >insurance. > >Mike Wills >RV4 canopy (and re-figuring instrument placement in my panel) >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light)
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Bill, Thanks for the note. The problem is not the shape of the landing light lens -- it actually fits fine -- it is that it fits under the skin rather than flush with it. So even if the fit is perfectly, it is still recessed the thickness of the skin plus the weatherstripping. It doesn't look bad, but I am worried about the disturbance to the air flow as noted by Kevin Horton and others, so I think I'll put the AOA ports in the next bay inboard. Thanks for your comment, if it was directed at me. Terry Watson RV-8A wings Seattle ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bbrut55(at)aol.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 11:35 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA sensor (was Duckworks Landing Light) > > TRY USING 1/16" LEXAN, MUCH STRONGER, USE A HAIR DRYER TO WARM THE LEXAN AND > SHAPE IT TO THE DESIRED SHAPE snip > BILL BRUTON > RV-8 TAIL FEATHERS > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Hi all, There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the canopy on an RV-8, and the only option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the roller assemblies attach to the canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then unlatch the canopy and push it up into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that it requires a number of operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of control aircraft. In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd want to position these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It would look something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you opened it. What do you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of pulling the pins? Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: Static air pickup
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Hi Guys, question regarding the routing and material used for static air source. Is it necessary to use flexible tubing or can I use a plastic type tubing? Also is the size important? Thanks, David RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Don Hyde <dhyde(at)sstar.com>
Subject: Re: It's Hell Gettin Older
I, too got dizzy with lineless bifocals, and soon switched to the lined kind with no further problems. I now have three pairs of bifocals: A "normal" clear set of lined ones I use for flying or driving at night (or watching TV or movies), a "flying" set of dark lined ones with the "near" window set a little farther than normal so that it focuses on the instrument panel, and my "computer" glasses, which are lineless, and set to focus from 1' to 10'. The "flying" glasses idea I got from a 747 driver who went one better than I did. He sat in his cockpit wearing an old pair of glasses, looked out the windshield, and then used a magic marker to draw a line on the glasses that lined up with the top of the instrument panel. He then measured the distance from his nose to the panel. He then went to the optician and said "make the little window where the line is and make it focus this far". With this setup, your eyes can actually focus from outside to the panel and back faster than they did when you still had normal accomodation. I love my computer glasses for their purpose, I can stare at computer screens without needing to crane my neck, I can hold PC boards up almost under my nose and focus on them, and I can look up to see my boss standing across the room. CAUTION -- they are downright dangerous in the cockpit or behind the wheel, I can almost see, but not quite. > >> >>I am seeking advice in regards to glasses. I have taken a pair of >>"progressive" bifocals(no line) for use, with the understanding that if I am >>not completely satisfied I can return them within 60 days for identical >>frames with the lined bifocal lenses. The question is this. How long >should >>it take to get used to these glasses? > >I've been using progressive lenses for about 6 months, and for my extensive >computer work, they're the greatest thing since sliced bread. I'll never >go back to bifocals for computer work. However, flying is a different >story. I find that the distortion outside of the "correct" focus zone >makes them unsuitable for cockpit use. The problem is that you have to >point your nose *exactly* at the object you wish to focus on. Loss of >focus on peripheral objects is no big deal, but straight lines curve >outside the focus zone. Which contributes to your dizziness (which will go >away after, for me, about a week or so). > >WRT your medical, not to worry. My family physician is an AME and pilot, >and uses (and knows I use) the progressive lenses. There's no prohibition >against them, as long as they don't hinder your vision. > >Long and short of it: keep them for the full 60 days before you decide. >But keep your bifocals handy (or go to tri-focals) when flying, IMO. > >And remember, getting older beats the hell out of the alternative! :-) >J.C. Hassall >jhassall(at)blacksburg.net >RV-6 Builder Wannabe >Blacksburg VA >"The essence of character is doing what's right, > even when nobody's looking." -- J.C. Watts > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Engine Lesson
I'm ordering a couple of new connecting rods for my engine... Here's the lesson that cost me $250, but is free to you... (By the way, I'm at the point on my project where another $250 almost doesn't matter. If you are not at that point, you'll get there someday.) Back to the story.. After getting all of the components for my engine reworked by various certified shops, I was advised by a local aero engine guru to take the rods, pistons, etc to a local speed shop (one he has used before) for balancing, since mine will be an experimental engine. I did. When I went to pick the parts up, the shop owner said the only things he had to machine were a couple of the rods which were heavy on the "small" end. Looking at the parts, I could tell they had been machined down well under the size of the small ends on the other rods. Also, there were some noticable scratches in the "wrong" places. This bothered me. After thinking on it for a while, I called Lycoming and Aircraft Specialty Services for the specs. Guess what?? The small ends on both rods were below tolerance. The manager at the speed shop said "Sorry, but he wasn't aware of a spec". Unfortunately, he's right. I, on the other hand, should have known better.... In the end, I'd bet the rods would hold up just fine until TBO. I'd bet money, that is. Not my hide. Decision made. Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: EAA & Cost of flyins
From: michael d hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
> Mr. Gally, > If my recollection is right. Every aviation magazine except > Sport > Aviation carried the story about Paul and his excess spending, gifts > of > EAA restored airplanes to his friends and misuse of EAA funds. > I have to admit I agree with Jim and Jim about EAA, it's "First Family", and Airventure (oh, how I hate that name!), but only to a point. I feel I get my money's worth for my dues because the mag is good and this also buys me an influential voice against our over-zealous FAA. However, I have never given to any of the other entities attached to EAA (EAA Foundation, etc) because I feel they have more than enough money to support these with all the other fundraising they do. I go to Oshkosh (it'll always be Oshkosh to me!) for a few days each year and they do put on a real show. I agree it's a bummer but for now I'll just put up with it and give 'em as little of my hard-earned cash as possible. Mike Hilger RV-6 (into that last 10% that takes 90% of the time) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Heating garage via plenum
Hello, The return plenum runs through my garage. Would be curious to know how much heat/aircon you get from taping into yours as I am contemplating doing the same. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 wings Moscow, Idaho USA At 08:11 PM 9/13/99 , you wrote: >Finally, I cut into the plenum from my HVAC system and ran a duct to the >garage. I only open it up when it is really, really cold, OR when I want a >little air conditioning in the summer. > > >KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap
Peter, You idiot!! Only joking Mate, if this is all you have to worry about you are doing fine. Don't stress I do enough for everyone!! The gap is on the bottom side, so I can't see a problem. I mean, really, who's going to know about your gap, when it is finished. You've got to look at the big picture. I don't know what you would fill it with, but someone will hopefully reply to you. The fuel tanks really aren't that bad, just more messy. So don't stress about them. I was really worried about them, when I did mine, so I got two helpers just in case I needed a hand. The bolts and nuts are done up reaching through the lightning holes. Don't forget to torque them up. Chris RV6 Fuse Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Re: Heating garage via plenum
<< Hello, The return plenum runs through my garage. Would be curious to know how much heat/aircon you get from taping into yours as I am contemplating doing the same. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 wings Moscow, Idaho USA >> Actually, I tapped into the high pressure side, not the return plenum. I have an 8" duct essentially straight off the blower. I get a lot of airflow, and it definitley makes a difference. However, it is subject to my HVAC system cycling on and off, so it really isn't my primary source of heat. (Though it is my ONLY source of cold air). Also, the heating system in my house generates warm air, not hot air, so if i leave the vent to the workshop open all the time, the shop will stay fairly warm in cold months. However, I only open the vent up when I get home, and there just isnt' enough heat in the air to quickly warm a cold-soaked shop. That's where the propane heater comes in. Finally, I must point out that I live in Atlanta, GA, so conditions are very different than in the tundra of Idaho :-). Tailwinds, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: NEED AVERY C-FRAME
All, I want to buy a used Avery C-Frame tool. Somebody should have one... Jason Baker RV-4 Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Wing Root Fairing Attach
Hello List! Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46 that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment. Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of root rib and install nutplates? From the PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
> >Hi all, > >There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the >canopy on an RV-8, and the only >option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the >roller assemblies attach to the >canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then >unlatch the canopy and push it up >into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that >it requires a number of >operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of >control aircraft. > >In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch >out of the top of the canopy >rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing >that you'd want to position >these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the >rollers. It would look something >like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg > >Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and >push up as you opened it. What do >you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other >method of pulling the pins? > >Russell Duffy Russell, It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Piper type heated pitot mast
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Dear Listers, In the past, I have noticed a number of posts regarding the various alternate types of pitot mast and also where to locate them. So since I now have over 50 hours on my RV8 and have varified the performance of my installation, I thought I would pass the info on to other builders who may be in the decision stage (during wing construction). I obtained a standard Piper pitot blade type mast with internal heating element. It appears that there is only one size and type, however I am not certain of this. They do however, all appear to be the same size. I have now determined that after extensive speed tests that my installation is accurate within a few miles per hour at all speeds from 60 thru 220 mph. The installation is quite simple. I located the pitot mast outboard of STA 81 1/4 in the left wing. It is located with the center of the mast (not the base) 2 3/8 inches outboard of STA 81 1/4 and 3 inches aft of the line formed between the leading edge skin and the aft bottom wing skin. I rivited in a 032 doubler that is 2 inches larger than the pitot base. I also ran both pitot and static lines through the wing to the fuselage and the airspeed indicator. I did not use vans fuselage type of static port. Why did I locate it here? I looked at other airplanes (mostly pipers) and tried to copy their installations, but mostly I just got lucky. Note: I ran aluminum tube in the wing and "LeGris" polyurethane tube and fittings through fuselage to instrument. If I were doing it again, I would use "LeGris" polyurethane tube in the wing also. It is much easier to use and ultra tough. Also comes in colors. I used clear for pitot and black for static. For those of you who may wish to use LeGris tubing and fittings etc. you will find it at industrial supply houses that specialize in hydraulic hose and liquid transmission equipment. The hose and fittings are also excellent for vacuum lines and vent lines. They all feature reusuable quick disconnect fittings and far exceed aviation specifications. Dick Martin RV8 N233M 80124 flying at last ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Dear Mark, I had to do the same thing. Since I had one of the first kits, I assumed it was oversight. I would think that Van would have corrected this by now. Good luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M 80124 flying at last ---------- > From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Wing Root Fairing Attach > Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 10:25 PM > > > Hello List! > > Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING > first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46 > that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main > rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the > root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in > Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and > found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other > rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment. > > Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of > root rib and install nutplates? > > >From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans > issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!) > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: RV8 paint schemes
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Dear listers, I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a black and white picture of the scheme that I like. It featured a 2 color scheme that looked like a leading edge of a dark color and the color went from the fuselage out to ab out 12 to 18 inches from the tip and then angled back to the trailing edge and wing tip. The rest of the wing was a light color. The fuselage featured a light upper color with a dark color beginning just aft of the wing on the bottom of the fuselage and curving up to about the center of the fuselage and then extending aft to the rear of the fuselage. I don't remember or couldn't see any fine details. If any of you, know who owns this airplane or where I can Buy,Beg or Borrow a color picture, I would appreciate this information. Thank You. Dick Martin RV8 N233M Flying at last ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach
Date: Sep 15, 1999
There is a conflict in the plans regarding this (Van chewed us out for this one a couple years ago in an RVator, saying we need to read the plans; I confirmed that indeed the plans conflict). Anyway, I stuffed the nutplates between the 1.25" spaced rivets. Alex Peterson --- > Hello List! > > Started dimpling tank skin and past experience said to check EVERYTHING > first so I looked for the wing root fairing details- found on dwg.46 > that the fuse bottom skin goes to the nutplates on the bottom skin/main > rib and so does the fairing on top.(!?) What nutplates on the TOP of the > root rib? Mentioned nowhere in the plans (I looked ALOT), looked in > Frank J. and V.'s notes and Will C.'s, nothing. Asked the archive and > found where one builder a few years back had to drill out every other > rivet on the top of the root rib to make the attachment. > > Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of > root rib and install nutplates? > > From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark Phillips (I WAS sitting on the fence on the quality of the plans > issue, now I'm starting to teeter!!!) > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Root Fairing Attach
Date: Sep 15, 1999
>Is this correct? Do not install every other rivet in top AND bottom of >root rib and install nutplates? Mark, You don't say which plane you're building. If it's a -6, then you should have some overlapping skin on the tanks to do the nutplates INBOARD of the tank rib flanges. The wings themselves you'll leave out every other rivet (or even just every third, or fourth -- you don't really need that many screws in the fairing). No problem on the wings anyway just drilling out the rivets if you did miss this and put them in, like probably 90% of us have done... :-} Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: RV6A weight
RVers, We weighed "Gillette Charlie's" (for those new to the list, a builder I'm helping build a 6A) RV6A a couple of days ago. He has a O-320 160 hp with a Hartzell constant speed and Woodward governor (from Van's) on his un-painted, no gyro 6A with sliding canopy. It weighed in at 1040 lbs with interior and 8 quarts of oil. I expect an increase of 25 to 30 lbs. when the aircraft is painted. (The paint job on my six weighed 30 lbs.) We won't make it to Burlington this year as we hope to have the aircraft inspected on Sept. 26th. So, with paint, his 6A will weigh less than my six which had gyros, a Sensenich fixed pitch prop, tip up and a 150 hp Lycoming. So, it looks like Charlie took my constant harping on weight control to heart. I think I'm as excited as the owner and am looking forward to when he makes his first flight. By the way, this airplane has the nicest, no gyro panel I've ever seen on a RV (and I've looked at a jillion panels over the last 15 years). Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Russell Duffy said: [snip] > I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy >rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd want to position >these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It would look >something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6 slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{ Perhaps if there were some way to safety it and have a quick release or something. But then you've kind of eliminated your reason for doing it in the first place. I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I don't think pulling the pins is a bad option. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing > >Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you opened it. What do >you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of pulling the pins? > >Russell Duffy >Navarre, FL >RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: IELHAI(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Piper type heated pitot mast
Where did you get your Piper heated pitot mast and does it contain the static port? Irv Elhai 80110 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Subject: Manual Trim Tab Cable
my rv6 kit came with the hole already in the spar.sn 25202. tcrv6(at)aol.com.i dont see a problem drilling ahole for the cable.there is a snap bushing that goes in the hole that i think comes in another kit other than the emp. kit.just drill the hole for the bushing. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Piper type heated pitot mast
> >Dear Listers, >In the past, I have noticed a number of posts regarding the various >alternate types of pitot mast and also where to locate them. So since I >now have over 50 hours on my RV8 and have varified the performance of my >installation, I thought I would pass the info on to other builders who may >be in the decision stage (during wing construction). >I obtained a standard Piper pitot blade type mast with internal heating >element. It appears that there is only one size and type, however I am not >certain of this. They do however, all appear to be the same size. Dick, Thanks for the info on your installation. There are apparently several different Piper pitots, each with a different angle on the bottom face. They should all give the same pitot pressure, but the static pressure from each would be different. This allowed Piper to tailor each installation to try to get the best static accuracy for that aircraft model. So, can you see a part number anywhere? Or, maybe you could measure the angle between the bottom face and the top mounting surface. Have fun flying, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
Russell, How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly longer, fore and aft. Drill a #30 hole through the cover and the rail fore and aft. for AN2 flush head bolts. You will need to countersink the underside of the holes in the channel to allow the use of flush head bolts. This is needed to allow the roller to clear the hardware. Make the plate so that it pivots on one bolt when the other is removed. A castleated nut and washer on top will do for the pivot point bolt. Remember not to tighten the nut completely. You want the plate to pivot freely. The other bolt could be held with washers and a cotter/clevis pin clip. I'm sure that I and other listers can come up with a more elegant removable pin solution with some more thought. How about it guys??? By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy. Charlie Kuss RV-8 fuel tanks Boca Raton, Fl. > In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy > rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd want to position > these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It would look something > like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg > > Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you opened it. What do > you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of pulling the pins? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz)
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
I put in 1/4" pins with the little locking ball from a "Pegasus Racing" catalog. I think that the likelihood of having to jettison is less than the likelihood that the notch solution would cause problems such as accidental jettison. Airloads change the way the canopy acts with the rail. T-34s have a handle that pulls a pin on each rail hold down fastener. Kind of complicated for us and it makes for a rattling canopy. BTW. I welded another handle to my canopy frame on the right side. That way I can slide it back with symmetrical pulls on both sides. I found that it was difficult to pull only on the latch handle and get the frame to release from the hold down block at the rear. This solved that problem and provided another way to close it as well. If you do this be sure to make it small enough (I modeled it after the latch handle) so that it won't hit the mid-cabin crossbrace / front seat back support. I welded it at a 45* to the vertical on the lower frame area although straight up and down would work too. Put a stop bolt at the rear of the left rail near the aft end to keep the handles from banging up against the rear bulkhead. Also put two hand holds up on the rollover bar. I angled them 45* forward. They don't obstruct any view and will not be a place to hit your head, just hang your hand. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Skin Gap
Date: Sep 16, 1999
I drilled and riveted together my LE prior to drilling on the main skins. The plans used to call for this I understand. That way, you can mount the main skins a little higher if needed. Press on, as others have said, not a big deal on the bottom. Marty RV6A left wing done, on to the right! -----Original Message----- From: Christensen, Peter <pchristensen(at)sel.com> Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 7:35 AM Subject: RV-List: Leading Edge Skin Gap > >Help, please. I started drilling my leading edge skins last night, and I >started on the top side (with a perfect butt-splice between the leading edge >and top main skins) and worked my way over the leading edge to the bottom >side. But as I neared the bottom main skins, I realized that I will have a >significant gap between the leading edge skins and the bottom main skins, on >the order of 1/16" to 3/32". Some of this (about 1/32) is due to the fact >that the main skins somehow got drilled a little below the 1" line, but I'm >still short on the skin side. The skins appear to hug the ribs nicely and >all is square (including the rib flanges). It seems a little late to redo >all the drilling, so my question is really what to do about the gap. Can >this get filled in with bondo or equivalent? Does this imply an error so >profound as to justify starting all over with new leading edge skins? I'm >getting all stressed out here. > >Also, one other question about sequencing again. Once I complete the >riveting on the leading edge section, how do I put in the bolts that mount >the ribs to the spar? The rivets are pulled, so that's OK, but how do I >access the nut on the leading edge side to tighten them properly? > >I know what you all are thinking: you think this is hard, wait until you >start on the tanks. To be sure, I'm nervous about that too. Thanks for >your help. > >Peter Christensen >RV-6A Wings >Pittsburgh, PA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was 14 vs. 28v)
>Twice in the last 20 years I have been stuck with a >dead battery. The first time happened at a middle-of-nowhere . . . > . . . .Because I was in airplanes with 14 volt systems, >their vehicles were able to provide jump starts which got me >home . . . A 28 volt airplane has far fewer rescue options. May I suggest that over half of all s.e. airplanes flying today departed with a FAILED battery? We tend to treat batteries in our airplanes like batteries in our cars . . . it gets replaced when it fails to crank the engine for perhaps the 4th or 5th time? This means that the battery has been useless as a source of backup energy for perhaps years before it finally gets replaced. RG batteries are going to make this situation worse, they maintain a lower internal resistance than their wet and gel cousins. They'll still get an engine started even futher down the slide toward the recycle bin. Please learn and observe some peventative maintenance techniques almost unheard of in certified aviation. KNOW (by measurement) or BE SURE (by periodic replacement) or DON'T CARE (with dual alternators) that the battery is capable of getting you home in the situations which you fly. You can find a lot of mechanics out there that curse batteries for their various faults but very few that understand how to live with them. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> >To: >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM > > Dear listers, > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a > black and white picture of the scheme that I like. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: NY RV Forum - Ride Wanted
Date: Sep 16, 1999
listers, i am looking for a ride, preferably in an RV, to the RV forum to be held in Oswego, NY (FZY), on Sept 25. i live near Westchester County airport (HPN), which is about 200 miles south of FZY. (for more details about the forum, follow this link --> http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm ) in return, you are welcome to stay at my home if you want to fly up the day before or want to stick around the day after. in addition, if you come up this way, you will not want to miss making a sight-seeing flight of manhattan. it's a blast flying around the Statue of Liberty 500 ft, with 1200 ft skyscrapers just off your wingtips! i will show you the VFR corridor through the NY airspace. so if you're headed my way with an empty seat, i'd love to hitch a ride. please contact me off-list at louis.cappucci(at)gs.com (try using this link --> mailto:louis.cappucci(at)gs.com ) thanks, louis cappucci rv-6a qb, canopy frame mamaroneck, ny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Hi Shelby, Since I am in the final stages of selecting my paint scheme for my RV-6A, I would be intrested in seeing this "Coolest" paint job. Please e mail to me at: eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com Thanks Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews NC > > I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures > of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. > > If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. > > I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: Engine shipping
Date: Sep 16, 1999
I was kicking through some old E-mail and came across conversations on shipping engines. I shipped my engine from Fla. to OR. I looked into U-haul, Rail and truck. All were very expensive and allowed for limited (if any) insurance. Additionally, these methods appeared difficult to arrange and very time consuming (3 to 6 weeks). I ended up shipping AA Air Freight. Cost of packaging and shipping was about $450 (with insurance) and it was delivered in 3 days. The only draw back was it required my presence in Fla. (I had to go to inspect anyway). The only way to fly. Mike Wilson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net>
Subject: Riveting of wing tip ribs
Date: Sep 16, 1999
9/16/99 Bert Murillo Bertrv(at)intellistar.net I am building rv6QB, I am curious to know how others finished the wing, when riveting the tip ribs. The video, shows George riveting the end ribs, while the wing is on the jig. It is no clear how he is holding wing vertically . Please E- mail suggestions thanks Bert ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV6A weight
Bob Skinner wrote: > By the way, this airplane has the nicest, no gyro panel I've ever seen on > a RV (and I've looked at a jillion panels over the last 15 years). > > Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY > > How about a picture of the Panel? -- Peter Laurence RV6-A plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: Static air pickup
Date: Sep 16, 1999
writes: > >Hi Guys, question regarding the routing and material used for static >air >source. Is it necessary to use flexible tubing or can I use a plastic >type tubing? Also is the size important? Thanks, David RV6A ======================================================> I used the kit from van's & thought it was great. I think you could use any thing for the plumbing. the gauges just need a reference to static pressure that is near true. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
To Randall Henderson...... have you considered drilling a clearence hole in the roll over/wind screen bar to allow use of the quick release pins for the 6/6A slider frame? Have been thinking about the same set up but have not actually done anything. Anybody else out there done something like that? Dale Ensing 6A slider ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Vortex Generators
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Does anyone have information of the use of vortex generators on RV's--especially RV-6 or 6A? Frank Reed RV-6A (purchased) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: 5th point harness
Date: May 11, 1999
I plan on using the Hooker 7 point harness which requires one anchor points between the crotch and and two about the same location on the out side of each thigh. I put in a 1 1/4 X 1/8 X 36 angle across the bottom of the seat ribs and flush with the bottom skin. I riveted it to the bottom skin and attached reinforcing angles to attach the large angle to the sides of the seat ribs. Sounds confusing, but it forms a "U" shape at each rib section. I did this for both the passenger and pilot sides. I did connect or tie both of the bottom angles. Somewhere in the archives is another solution with an attached drawing. Bob Busick RV-6 > >For any of the naturally gifted innovators out there, how have you designed >the attach fixture under the seat for the fifth point harness ?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: LSE Ignition Systems
Date: Sep 16, 1999
I have chosen the Lightspeed system. Not used yet but have encountered a problem. My heads have heli-coils in the spark plug holes. Aircraft plugs go in without any resistance. The automotive adapters do not screw in. They offer resistance and begin to shed metal if forced. I have checked the thread and they seem fine. Have even run a die over them, but it doesn't help. I asked LSE and they have never heard of this. Any thoughts??? Mike Wilson -----Original Message----- From: Anthony J Castellano [mailto:tcastella(at)juno.com] Sent: Sunday, September 05, 1999 6:25 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Electroair Ignition Systems Yes, I still feel the same way about the Electro-Air ignition system. I have quite a few hrs on the A1A now, and it has performed flawlessly. I am running the bottom plugs (Autolite 386) with the electronic ignition and the top plugs with the magneto. The automotive plugs are working well. I recently installed my second Electro-Air ignition on my O360-A1F6D with the same ignition wire routing, plug types etc, and it too performs flawlessly. In the last year, I was responsible for the installation of Electro-Air ignitions on a Glassair 3, Glassair 2, Lancair and RV6-A. All four owners are also pleased with their electronic ignitions. Good Luck, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) writes: > >Castellano) >> >>In the past, there was some very negative critisism of Jeff Rose's >>electronic ignition >>systems. >>Although I had purchased two of them at that time, I wasn't qualified >to >>comment on >>the subject since I hadn't tested them yet. >>I recently installed one in place of the right magneto on my Lycoming >>O-360 A1A, and >>after test flying it, I can report that it does everything that Jeff >>says it will. >>The instructions were easy to follow, and as recommended, I replaced >the >>aircraft >>plugs with Auto-Lite type 386 (18mm) spark plugs gapped at 0.035". I >>believe these >>plugs are a key part of the installation since it would be very >difficult >>to gap an aircraft >>plug to 0.035" without damaging the plug. Also $1.90 vs $16.00. >>In my opinion, Jeff rose is a very honest and knowledgeable person to >do >>business >>with, and I can highly recommend his product. >> >> >Anthony, > >I was just rereading some of my saved mail from the RV-list and saw >this >post. I have been seriously thinking of going with Jeff's ignition in >my >RV-4, 0-360 A1A. Do you still feel the same way? Which plugs did you >route >the Electronic Ignition to - upper, lower, or mixed? How do the >automotive >plugs work at this point in your experience? Any reply will be >appreciated. >Thanks, > >Louis > > >Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ >larywil(at)home.com >(610) 668-4964 >Philadelphia, PA > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Doug Bell <dbell(at)manisteenational.i2k.com>
Subject: RV8 paint schemes
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Shelby, I would also love those scanned pics of the paint scheme Thanks Doug Bell, 8QB Fus work ongoing dbell(at)manisteenational.com Doug Bell, PGA Director of Golf Manistee National Golf & Resort (616)-723-8874 On Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:19 AM, Shelby Smith [SMTP:shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com] wrote: > > I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures > of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. > > If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. > > I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes > >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM > > > > > Dear listers, > > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. > > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a > > black and white picture of the scheme that I like. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: conical mount bushings
I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to go with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to justify the high price? Thanks, Mike Wills RV4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was 14 vs. 28v)
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Bob, I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going to go very far. I've driven for 42 years and if the batt. was suspect I would clean the terminals. If that wouldn't do it I would change the batt. I've also been flying for 24 years and have always thought that there was something special about "aircraft" batt's. Can you believe that ? An electrician who thought there was something special about a batt. that had "aircraft" stamped on it. Well, one looks into the hole and sees that nothing is leaking from the big black box. They close the hole, get into the plane and push the switch. You v'e heard it a thousand times. "Two blades and it started". I think that means that drawing two to three hundred amps for 1.5 seconds absolutely guarantees that the starter, generator, pistons and battery are all one hundred percent. That has to be a hard nut to crack. I'd like to offer a suggestion. Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others. Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com writes: Twice in the last 20 years I have been stuck with a dead battery. The first happened at a middle-of-nowhere . . . it gets replaced when it fails to crank the engine for perhaps the 4th or 5th time? This means that the battery has been useless as a source of backup energy for perhaps years before it finally gets replaced. Please learn and observe some peventative maintenance techniques KNOW (by measurement) Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment - and a
fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts For Scot Risan at Van's Builder Support (and info copy to RV-list) I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position. When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of wood and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling floors to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs. Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough to occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during re-installation of the center plate. THE SIMPLE FIX: Without the center plate, but with the floors and center ribs cleco'd or screwed together (used awl to bring rib holes into alignment with skin holes), I drilled a #40 hole down through skin and a rib, between two fwd platenuts - on both sides of tunnel between inbd ribs. Also just fwd of an aft platenut hole that was also giving me a bit of problem. Then I took deburring tool and did a quick and dirty countersink of each hole and dropped in a 426-4-8 flush rivet in each hole to "pin" the floor skin and rib together - hold them aligned even with the screws removed. Then remove the screws or clecos - the un-driven "rivet pins" hold the ribs in correct position for all future instances of installing the center plate, which doesn't even "see" the flush "rivet pins". No more cocked and stripped screws when installing the center plate. Even did it on aft end of one of the sloping ribs coming aft from F-604 main spar area to keep that rib/platenut aligned with floor when the screws are out. I'm not currently monitoring the RV-list so any feetback needs to come direct to me at dcarter(at)datarecall.net David Carter, Nederland, Texas RV-6, laying out holes for platenuts on F-639 right fwd floor skin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: conical mount bushings
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Mike, don't use the soft rubber cheap mounts!!! I did and was not happy with the vibrations produced. If you want to try I will give you my old ones free! Bite the bullet and order Lord part # J - 6230 - 1 . When you get them they are so hard you will think they are the wrong ones. Each mount has two dough nuts and a sleeve that fits in between. If you need more info write direct. This should be in the archives because I remember submitting a post on it. regards Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Salmon Arm B.C. Wall to wall blue today and 70 degrees ( 1:00 PM) -----Original Message----- From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:32 AM Subject: RV-List: conical mount bushings > >I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to go >with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal >bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical >rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord >bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount >bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to >justify the high price? > >Thanks, > >Mike Wills >RV4 canopy >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Engine shipping
My O360A1A engine and propeller were shipped to me, from Texas, via Airborne Airfreight for $300.00. Trucking companies wanted about $350.00. Cash Copeland RV6QB Oakland, Ca In a message dated 9/16/99 5:41:03 PM GMT Daylight Time, james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com writes: << --> RVlist message posted by: "Wilson, James Mike" I was kicking through some old E-mail and came across conversations on shipping engines. I shipped my engine from Fla. to OR. I looked into U-haul, Rail and truck. All were very expensive and allowed for limited (if any) insurance. Additionally, these methods appeared difficult to arrange and very time consuming (3 to 6 weeks). I ended up shipping AA Air Freight. Cost of packaging and shipping was about $450 (with insurance) and it was delivered in 3 days. The only draw back was it required my presence in Fla. (I had to go to inspect anyway). The only way to fly. Mike Wilson >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: conical mount bushings
Date: Sep 16, 1999
>I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings >to go with my conical engine/mount. >Mike Wills >RV4 canopy >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ============================================================ I bought a Lyc parts book PC-103 for the 0-320 series before I found a D3G engine. Now I need another book. Any way it shows p/n 71032(8) & (8) STD-619 washers for conical mounts. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: Re: It's Hell Gettin Older
Date: Sep 16, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Don Hyde <dhyde(at)sstar.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 2:58 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: It's Hell Gettin Older > > I, too got dizzy with lineless bifocals, and soon switched to the lined > kind with no further problems. > SNIP I switched to lineless bifocals for flying because I was informed by my flight surgeon that I was not going to be able to pass the mid-vision requirement for Class II much longer. In the summer, I fly Super Cubs in the mountains of Alaska for hunters (air taxi) and land on very short and usually nasty strips (off airport the FAA calls it), so depth perception and visual acuity are important. I adjusted with no problems, although I cannot read with the doggone things. I found the reading width too narrow for the way I read, and I prefer lined bifocals or reading glasses for that. I also got some computer glasses that focus from mid range to close range (unlined). I found they are great for mechanical work, like building RV's. Not to worry about old age and its problems- remember it is only a temporary condition. Gar Pessel RV6 canopy, Fairbanks, AK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: conical mount bushings
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Mike, See if LORD will send you the video of the Northern Lights aerobatic teams rubber mounts. Once you see the video, you will not buy the cheap mounts. If you are going to do any kind of aerobatics with your plane go with LORD or BARRY mounts. Bryan Files Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 10:11 AM Subject: RV-List: conical mount bushings > > I'm looking for a part number, source, and pricing on rubber bushings to go > with my conical engine/mount. Vans accessory catalog only lists Dynafocal > bushings. Ive searched the archives and found references to "cheap conical > rubber bushings" and one part number/price for a pretty expensive Lord > bushing. Does anyone have more info on those so called cheap mount > bushings? Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to > justify the high price? > > Thanks, > > Mike Wills > RV4 canopy > willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: "Charles P. Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: LIVING aircraft batteries . . . (was
14 vs. 28v) Larry & Listers, While I'm sure that Bob N. can come up with a more accurate test, here is an easy and free one. Ensure that the battery is fully charged. With the mags grounded (no spark), crank the starter for at least 15 seconds. Watch your volt meter. If it stays above 9.6 volts the entire time, the battery is at least "fair". This test "assumes" that your starter is good and all wire connections are OK. Either way, if it fails, it's time to find out what is wrong. Charlie Kuss RV-8 fuel tanks Boca Raton, Fl. > Bob, > I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going > to go very far. I've driven for 42 years and if the batt. was suspect I > would clean the terminals. If that wouldn't do it I would change the > batt. I've also been flying for 24 years and have always thought that > there was something special about "aircraft" batt's. Can you believe that > ? An electrician who thought there was something special about a batt. > that had "aircraft" stamped on it. Well, one looks into the hole and > sees that nothing is leaking from the big black box. They close the hole, > get into the plane and push the switch. You v'e heard it a thousand > times. > "Two blades and it started". I think that means that drawing two to > three hundred amps for 1.5 seconds absolutely guarantees that the > starter, generator, pistons and battery are all one hundred percent. > That has to be a hard nut to crack. I'd like to offer a suggestion. > Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one > could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device > that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green > l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect > the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot > of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
I'd be interested.. can you post them for all to see. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Elevators (Wings Inventoried) Sn 80972 http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Bonnyville, AB Canada Shelby Smith wrote: > > I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures > of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. > > If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. > > I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes > >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM > > > > > Dear listers, > > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. > > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a > > black and white picture of the scheme that I like. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: It's Hell Gettin Older
In a message dated 9/16/99 2:20:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pessel(at)ptialaska.net writes: << Not to worry about old age and its problems- remember it is only a temporary condition. >> Gar Thanks for the feedback. It's not old age that worries me. It's gettin thru this middle age stuff that's bothering me. Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RV8 Forward Baggage Door
Date: Sep 16, 1999
RV8 Builders, I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears that I am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It isn't off by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit exactly. Any advise out there. Thanks.....Mark Mark Steffensen 80783 8A Fuselage & Systems Stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: 5th point harness
Buster wrote: > For any of the naturally gifted innovators out there, how have you designed > the attach fixture under the seat for the fifth point harness ?? More gifted, innovative, or imaginative than you??? Nah, I'm just an RV information packrat. You can find an attach fixture designed by someone else (and links to other 5th-point attachment ideas and vendors) at my web page <http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny3b.htm> You'll also find a fair amount of discussion on this if you search the RV-list archives. > and wife declines to help simply because I drilled into her palm...how petty I think this one is going to hurt you a lot! Frank. -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Vortex Generators
Van was doing some work with these this last year. There is an article in one of the recent RVators. Don't know which one as I am not in the same location as my library. In a message dated Thu, 16 Sep 1999 1:03:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Frank A. Reed" writes: > > Does anyone have information of the use of vortex generators on > RV's--especially RV-6 or 6A? > > Frank Reed > RV-6A (purchased) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randylervold(at)csi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Forward Baggage Door
Date: Sep 16, 1999
>I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am >working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears that I >am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It isn't off >by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am >planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit >exactly. >Any advise out there. Mark, Yes, the door is slightly wider than the opening, especially the top edge where the hinge attaches. On the sides I simply took a magic marker along the edge overlapping onto the top the amount I needed to trip. It wasn't even so I adjusted the angle of the marker appropriately as I ran it down. Then on the top edge (where the hinge goes) I had to remove about a quarter inch which I think I cut with my bandsaw and smoothed with a vixen file. BTW, the sides were trimmed with a vixen file as well. That thing works really well for removing small amounts of aluminum, especially if it's not a straight line, as the side trimming wasn't. The cardboard template may work as well, your call. Hope this helps. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, still contemplating canopy skirt but gotta do something soon! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Randall: You seem to be saying that you have some information on what would happen in one took off in a RV-6 slider with the canopy unlocked. Do you have this info? If so, I would appreciate you sharing it with those of us building this same airplane. I don't suppose anyone has tried this intentionally, so I am assuming someone along the line has 'fessed up. Appreciate any light you can shed on this. Thanks. Pat Hatch RV-4 N17PH @ INT RV-6 Wing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:28 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy release- another option > > Russell Duffy said: > [snip] > > I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy > >rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that > you'd want to position > >these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. > It would look > >something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg > > I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget > to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that > point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6 > slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in > the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{ > > Perhaps if there were some way to safety it and have a quick release or > something. But then you've kind of eliminated your reason for doing it in > the first place. > > I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the > game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close > to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I > don't think pulling the pins is a bad option. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > > > > >Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up > as you opened it. What do > >you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method > of pulling the pins? > > > >Russell Duffy > >Navarre, FL > >RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next) > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
Date: Sep 17, 1999
I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass. Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws? Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the platenut and the fiberglass? Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts? Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32 pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. Thanks for any replies, Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| Lakewood/ Denver, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries
> I believe everything you have said but I don't think it's going > to go very far. . . . > . . . . I'd like to offer a suggestion. >Perhaps you could sell plans to, or build for sale, a load meter one >could keep in their tool box. Or would it be possible to build a device >that might be ten red/green l.e.d.s on a strip, panel mounted. Ten green >l.e.d.s mean a batt. at 100%. As they begin to become red, they reflect >the decline of usefulness of the batt. Such a meter would give me a lot >of peace of mind. I can only think it would work for others. Funny you should mention that. I'm working on the AGATE derivative of the A36 Bonanza and one of the suggestions I've raised is to include a load-type battery test fixture (about .8 lbs) to the airplane. Once every 6 months or so, the pilot pushes a button when he parks the airplane. Next time fires the airplane up, the load tester reports battery CAPACITY and recommends replacement if it's below some selected value. Of course this works only for the airplane with dual batteries. It also only works if the pilot plans to fly again in a few days (the tester takes the battery down to 5-10% of capacity and you don't want to leave the battery in that state for long. Further, you only test one battery at a time so you have the other to get the engine started). This same device could be a tool-box device that one would clip onto a battery, come back in a few hours and read the capacity before putting the battery on a charger. To keep costs down, we're considering the use of a regular multimeter to display capccity so that the fixture has only two leads that clip to a battery and two leads that plug into a multimeter. I'm talking with a high volume battery manufacturer about designing the thing, they'll have it built for sale under their brand but I'll get my "royalties" out of it by getting green units at cost which I'll brand for the 'Connection. It's a tool who's time has come . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: Piper type heated pitot mast
Date: Sep 16, 1999
They all contain the static port and they are available from Piper dealers and all of the scrap dealers. Dick Martin ---------- > From: IELHAI(at)aol.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Piper type heated pitot mast > Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 11:45 PM > > > Where did you get your Piper heated pitot mast and does it contain the static > port? > > Irv Elhai 80110 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
Date: Sep 16, 1999
Dear Shelby, Please Email me the scans, I am very interested. Thank You. Dick Martin martin(at)gbonline.com ---------- > From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes > Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 10:19 AM > > > I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures > of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. > > If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. > > I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes > >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM > > > > > Dear listers, > > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. > > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a > > black and white picture of the scheme that I like. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Lothar: Here's what I did: 1. I countersank the fiberglass for both the #6 screw dimples and the nut plate rivets. 2. I did not use the .025 backing...you really don't need it becasue the nut plates themselves serve as a backing for the rivet shop heads. 3. Soft rivets are available from the tool folks, but I didn't use them. Just regular rivets. 4. Countersunk #6 plate nuts are available from Van's. I just ordered some. But you don't need those here. Hope this helps. Pat Hatch RV-4 N17PH @ INT RV-6 Wing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled Platenuts > > I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass. > Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws? > Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the > platenut and the fiberglass? > Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts? > Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32 > pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. > Thanks for any replies, > > Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| > Lakewood/ Denver, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV8 Forward Baggage Door
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 17, 1999
> >I have fitted the forward top fuselage skin F821, all seems fine. I am >working on installing the baggage door. In the initial fit it appears >that I >am going tho have to trim the door to fit oppening in the skin. It >isn't off >by much, but my expecation due to the CNC punching was no error. I am >planning on making a poster board templete & then trim the door to fit >exactly. > >Any advise out there. > >Thanks.....Mark > >Mark Steffensen >80783 8A >Fuselage & Systems Stuff > The 3 baggage doors I have done in the prototype shop so far exactly fit the opening except for along the top where the hinge goes. The door skin was designed so that it just fits inside the opening to help hold it in the exact position while you drill/assemble the door. Then you are supposed to file/trim the edges slightly to provide a nominal clearance to allow for paint buildup etc. What you need to do now is "just make it work"... ooh I can't believe I said that. Actually you will have to just try and see what works for you. My experience with poster board is that if I use stuff that is stiff enough, it doesn't want to curve smoothly, and if I use stuff that curves nicely it is just too flexible. Did you drill on the F-822 skin with the removable piece in the baggage door opening still in place? If you did then I wouldn't think the door skin size would be of by very far. You may be able to just file on the edges a little at a time to get a tight fit. BTW... from talking to a lot of builders that have had problems with the baggage door assembly I find that the biggest error is not following the instructions to drill and rivet the inside skin with the door taped down tight, and not taking the time to "carefully straighten (flute)the ribs and adjust the angle of the door rib flanges. There are fluting diagrams on one of the fluting drawings. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of
alignment - and a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 17, 1999
>I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too >far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position. >When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of >wood >and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling >floors >to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs. - One simple way of dealing with this is to use some strips of duct tape pulled tight laterally acrossed the ribs and stuck to each rib with them in the proper position. You can use as many pieces of tape as necessary. > >Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the >blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough >to >occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during >re-installation of the center plate. - It is usually a good practice to rivet the plate nuts through the rib and the seat/floor skins for 2 reasons. 1. The rivets that attach the plate nut also hold the rib in place for you. 2. The rivets that attach the plate nut are accessible. This is important if you ever do strip out one of those plate nuts and you need to drill out the rivets to replace it. If the rivets are only through the rib (covered up by the floor/seat skin) then you have to remove the whole floor to be able to remove that one plate nut. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for
Pre-dimpledPlatenuts Lothar Klingmuller wrote: > > I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass. > Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws? Yes you need to countersink for both the screws and rivets. The screws countersink must be deep enough to allow the dimpled skin to nest fully. > > Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the > platenut and the fiberglass? Nope. The platenut has enough area to keep the rivet from destroying the glass. The doubler is used on the back side of fiberglass when using blind rivets. > > Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts? The NAS1097AD rivets, or "UH-OH"!! rivets, work really well for attaching platenuts to both aluminum and fiberglass. The main advantage is not having to countersink as deep due to their smaller head. Soft aluminum rivets would also work well but I have never used any. > > Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32 > pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. Since the platenuts are going on the inside of the fiberglass and the fiberglass is countersunk for the rivet there is no need for pre dimpled platenuts. I have installed a lot of 6-32 and 8-32 platenuts and never needed to dimple the platenut. I use the NAS1097AD3-x reduced countersunk head rivet for all my platenut riveting. > > Thanks for any replies, Your Welcome. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 - N99PZ reserved. - Installing Van's manual aileron trim Pine Junction, Colorado 8480 feet MSL > > > Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| > Lakewood/ Denver, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
Date: Sep 16, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled Platenuts > > I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass. > Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws? > Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the > platenut and the fiberglass? > Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts? > Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32 > pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. > Thanks for any replies, I used .025 aluminum strip as a backing plate. I prosealed it to the fiberglass. (Hope you have lots of cleco sideclamps) Then I countersunk the fiberglass and used the pure aluminum rivets to keep the stress on the fiberglass to a minumum. You do not need to dimple the platenuts behind the fiberglass; it is thick enough to take the rivet head. Remember to use a cheap countersink on the fiberglass and not to use afterwords it on aluminum. The glass will dull it for anything useful except fiberglass. Countersinking for the screw looks a little messy, but the edge of the wing skin covers the mess. You should spend some care in fitting the wingtip before drilling for the screws. The result is quite strong and will look good. Gar Pessel qb6 canopy, Fairbanks, AK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: strobes and voltage
> >I just finally got my instrument panel powered up. Before I turned on >my Whelen Strobes I was showing about 12.5 volts. When I turned on the >strobe switch the voltage gauge swung from 12.5 volts to 10.5 volts and >back on each flash. Is this normal? Will I see this kind of fluctuation >when the engine/alternator is operating? I sure hope not . This would >drive me nuts. Did I do something wrong? It sure sounds like an almost discharged battery. Put your battery on a charger and try again. If that doesn't fix it you have a high-resistance connection somewhere. Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1 http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682 +1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Hi Lothar, I first layed out the pattern for the platenut position along the metal edge of the wing tip. I then cut out an 1/2" wide aluminum 0.025 strip that would run along the inside edge of the wingtip. I positioned the strip underneath the edge of the wing tip and drilled through the wingtip skin and aluminum strip to located the platenut position on both the skin and strip. I thing positioned the fiberglass wing tip (after trimming it so that it fit the molded outline) onto the wing tip and using the wing tip drilled hole as a guide drilled a hole thru the fiberglass wing tip. This gives you the wing skin, fiberglass tip, and aluminum strip with the same hole pattern. I then clecoed the strip to the fiberglass tip and proceeded to place platenuts at each drilled hole (DO NOT drill holes in your wing skin for the platenut rivit mounting holes - only a single hole for your platenut screw). I did not use dimpled platenuts, I place them on the underside of the strip drilled the rivit hole thru fiberglass skin and aluminum strip. I did countersink both the rivit and platenut screw hole in the fiberglass ,but dimpled the platenut hole on the wing skin. Other than the pain of putting a total of 40 tiny platenuts on, it went well. I am glad I did the platenuts instead of pop riviting them on as I have already had them off to fix an landing light problem and antenna problem. Hope this helps. Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews NC > > I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 platenuts to the fiberglass. > Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the platenut rivets and the screws? > Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or backing strip between the > platenut and the fiberglass? > Do I need special rivits for attaching the platenuts? > Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I can find only 8-32 > pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. > Thanks for any replies, > > Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| > Lakewood/ Denver, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "riveter" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Listers, How much clearance do some of you have between your aileron and the gap seal at the closest point? My aileron comes within 1/8 of an inch of the gap seal at the closest point. I don't think it would ever bind up in normal flight as it would take a considerable downward force on the top of the wing trailing edge to deflect it. Since the top is the low pressure side, it should be fine, but I need some more opinions on this one. Mark McGee Upstate NY RV-4 Finishing second wing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts --- Lothar Klingmuller wrote: > > > I am somewhat at a loss how best attach 6-32 > platenuts to the fiberglass. > Do I countersink the fiberglass both for the > platenut rivets and the screws? > Do I need to add an aluminum (.025) doubbler or > backing strip between the > platenut and the fiberglass? > Do I need special rivits for attaching the > platenuts? > Also, where can buy pre-dimpled 6-32 platenuts? I > can find only 8-32 > pre-dimpled plantenus but not the 6-32. > Thanks for any replies, > > Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for > finishing kit||| > Lakewood/ Denver, CO Cleaveland Aircraft Tools sells a # 4 hardware kit to attach the wing tips. WHS-220 http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvacc.html Just follow their instructions that come with it. Looks and works great after over 430 hours of flying. == Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: RVs and Images..long
Sorry Austin, That's one for the archives......one of your best.....Thanks....AL > > >Flying has consumed me and turned me into a romantic. >Images come to me by sight, sound , memory, and imagination. >The joy of fast, free, unfettered flight in an RV has, for me, opened wide >the great doors to the grand hallways of the air that I could not know of if >I had not become a builder. >A builder so lucky to live in the time frame where gas, oil, engines and >airplanes and the beloved RV are present in this time, this place. > The images of my inspiration come from watching the big iron arrive >and depart at my local international, or a drive in the evening to a small >local field to watch light planes touch and go until the sky is red and >black, lights come on, and one ship after another taxi to the gas pit, >thence to retire for one more day. Also in the evening, TV has wondrous >footage of carrier ops in heart stopping sound and color. > My favorite though, is somewhat old and simple. It is time spent on the >banks of my old man river, where here, where I reside, nights are getting >cold, leaves are turning a riot of red and gold, and cold marine air moves >in to form a blanket of low mist and fog over the land and waterways. > I begin to hear the music of a radial engine as a Beaver rounds the >point growing larger, closer, louder and the craft seeks the surface of the >water, lower, lower, until a rooster tail spray erupts from the floats like >bold, wild brush strokes of white on canvas, and then subsides. > Ticket, tickety, tickety, the prop slows in its song and the Beaver glides >serenely to the dockside, a silhouette now, black against the red, reflected >in reverse in the water. > A Beaver to be sure, not an RV, but enough to spark my plug to get >working, to fly again. > TV and movies evoke some beautiful and inspiring scenes and musical >passages to portray the thrill and beauty of flight. > One image shows a reflection of a passenger jet in a window glass >while United plays a theme based on the Rhapsody In Blue . >The English Patient shows us a loving old biplane coursing slowly and >painfully over the endless expanse of sand dunes while haunting and >beautiful music tugs at our hearts and sympathies. >Out Of Africa, another old biplane, carried along over sights that only a >flier can see and revere all the while accompanied by music which seems >entirely appropriate and natural to flying..beautiful and unashamedly >sentimental. > But in flying my RV, I tried, very hard I tried, but could not hear >these wonderful passages. > MY RV was noisy and raucous, it barks...It was far from sedate, silent, >and dreamy. >I would like to hear the chorus, but I can't. >And then one day it came. >After many times together, when we were relaxed as friends and comfortable >with each other's company, the never ending thrill of take-off and climb, a >thrill each time, just as the thrill of the kiss..inspires and renews,....I >hear it..It is grander than Gershwin, it is Toccata from a Symphony No. 5 >(Widor). >It is a grand organ, not in the Ratzeburg Cathedral in Germany..it is right >here...up here where the RV and I lead and guide each other in turn, >banking, swooping, rolling in a crescendo of chords. > Oh ! that I could play an instrument like that ! ..But what of the RV >? >It truly is an instrument,.. and you are the player ! >And after laughing and dancing together, you both return to earth and the >engine, the music, the sounds are stilled, you find your way home warmed in >the glow of a wonderful time together. >It lasts a long while. The RV says "call again soon and we'll do it all over >again". > The leaves have begun to fall, I sit on the lawn swing and read until it >is too cold to linger. I read of fliers and airplanes and remember those who >went before. >My early flight instructors, tough and kind...the old breed that made you >believe you were a good flier when they finally told you so. > Old Ted, who gave me the gift of formation flying. >Old Franz, with the .50 cal. scar across the forehead with his stories of >flying a 109. >Smiling Art, who said it was easy to fly a whiskey compass heading within 3 >degrees of course,..later lost while landing a 707 in a whiteout. >Ken, he of the Mustangs and Sabres, of air combat in Korea, ..cranky when >the Malaria dogged him, but my best instructor of all to show me what a 140 >can do. > Stan, who opened the world of float flying and another form of freedom to >me. >Flying has so many people and so many facets to it. How can it become >common-place ? > Up in the hills, 300 miles from home, where at 3500 ft, I drive a >mountain road through canyons where the granite walls rise 10,000 feet along >my route. >I stop a while and hear the sound of a sport plane type exhaust note, a fast >red homebuilt , short, fat wings with winking strobes swoops in a descending >arc and disappears. > Way out here, another unexpected treat as I find an airfield with a warm >RV on the apron, drawing me as a magnet to look it over, find the pilot, and >enjoy what follows. > So now, it is a good time to work, to see fewer and fewer pieces left >to put in place. >Like the bear, the beaver and the squirrels, I am a hive of activity >preparing for Winter. >But my hibernation will not be one of sleep..it will be one of RV work and >images of flying to help me through the long Winter night. > Let me once again climb aboard my magic carpet, bring to life the song >of the engine, close the canopy and feel the push in my back, the moment of >lifting free from the ground, the RV climbing out quickly and eagerly >without peer or equal to dash away and set out for the shoreline. >Over the islands, letting down at speed, the surf and shore blend as a blue >and white ribbon curving and twisting as if caught in a slipstream ahead of >us. > Was this how it was at Kahili ?...Kwajalein...New Guinea ? >Is this a snapshot of what once was and I can see history out of the >windscreen and beyond the spinner ? > Why am I always looking around ? Up above, behind me and around. I find >myself constantly checking the fuel...what is my compass heading ?? Where >are my buddies ? >Have they all turned away ? > The light is fading some and the last of it plays odd tricks as my shadow >keeps pace on the water, then cloud as we race along together and I hold >place, looking on. > This is the place to be,.. alone or no..up with the images, the magic, >the wonder. >Up, up and climbing, as high as we can go, where a bit of sunlight still >resides and we can see forever. > The vast Pacific spreads before..I have flown very far....Is that Kahili >there ?? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Risan " <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment - and
a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts thanks for the input....scott at van's From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> Send reply to: dcarter(at)datarecall.net Copies to: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Quickbuild RV-6 center ribs slightly out of alignment - and a fix for stripping screws on misaligned platenuts > For Scot Risan at Van's Builder Support (and info copy to RV-list) > > I had previously reported that center ribs under seat floors were too > far apart (each about 1/8 or 1/4 inch outboard of correct position. > When drilling the seat floors, the fix was to use lots of blocks of wood > and tongue depresser shims to hold the ribs steady while drilling floors > to ribs and center inspection plate to 2 center ribs. > > Now that I have all that done and platenuts installed, and all the > blocks/shims removed, the two center ribs still flex outboard enough to > occasionally cause me to mis-start and strip a screw during > re-installation of the center plate. THE SIMPLE FIX: Without the center > plate, but with the floors and center ribs cleco'd or screwed together > (used awl to bring rib holes into alignment with skin holes), I drilled > a #40 hole down through skin and a rib, between two fwd platenuts - on > both sides of tunnel between inbd ribs. Also just fwd of an aft > platenut hole that was also giving me a bit of problem. Then I took > deburring tool and did a quick and dirty countersink of each hole and > dropped in a 426-4-8 flush rivet in each hole to "pin" the floor skin > and rib together - hold them aligned even with the screws removed. Then > remove the screws or clecos - the un-driven "rivet pins" hold the ribs > in correct position for all future instances of installing the center > plate, which doesn't even "see" the flush "rivet pins". No more cocked > and stripped screws when installing the center plate. Even did it on > aft end of one of the sloping ribs coming aft from F-604 main spar area > to keep that rib/platenut aligned with floor when the screws are out. > > I'm not currently monitoring the RV-list so any feetback needs to come > direct to me at dcarter(at)datarecall.net > > > David Carter, Nederland, Texas > RV-6, laying out holes for platenuts on F-639 right fwd floor skin > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillJW(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: New, RV Model-Specific Email Lists
agree, leave them all on one list. we can click through those of no immediate interest. hilljw(at)aol.com rv8a, flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillJW(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
Shelby: I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for my 8a. Would appreciate have a photo. Thanks. hilljw(at)aol.com Jimmy Hill 8a, flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: RV8 paint schemes
Hi all... My -8 empennage kit arrived yesterday! I am still getting my jig setup and waiting for some tools though... On the subject of paint schemes... I have some on my web site I have been working on if anyone is interested... I am also looking for suggestions on new schemes... http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor/ -Bill Von Dane -8A empennage bvondane(at)atmel.com http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Hrycauk Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 3:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes I'd be interested.. can you post them for all to see. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Elevators (Wings Inventoried) Sn 80972 http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Bonnyville, AB Canada Shelby Smith wrote: > > I just received from a fellow Van's builder clinic classmate some pictures > of his plane. This has to be one of the coolest paint jobs I've seen. > > If anyone is interested I'd be happy to e-mail some scans privately. > > I am sure this plane will end up in the calender soon. > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: RV8 paint schemes > >Date: Wed, Sep 15, 1999, 8:50 PM > > > > > Dear listers, > > I now have most of the bugs out of my RV8 and am thinking of paint schemes. > > I saw a picture on one of the recent RV-ator magazines of an RV8 with a > > black and white picture of the scheme that I like. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
For those who are looking for the RG-400 coax cable, we'll have it in stock Monday (9-20) at $1.75/ft We will custom assemble RG-400 assemblies with BNC male connectors for $4.00 per connector additional. We'll be stocking crimp on BNC connectors -and- tools to install the connectors . . . the tools will be $40.00 each. Connectors will be $10.00 for a bag of six. For those who missed out on the refurbished machine pin crimp tools for D-sub connectors last spring, we have located another source for NEW, low cost tools. These will be $38.00 each and will show up in our website catalog next week. We have heatguns for installing heat shrink tubing at $23.00 ea. We'll be posting wire marking kits which will include a pre- printed sheet of adhesive backed numbers and an assortment of CLEAR heatshrink . . . probably enough to do a complete airframe. Haven't decided on the cost yet . . . somewhere around $16.00. A BIG expansion of our inventory and website catalog is in the works. We're debugging new shopping cart software for our website. After a contractor gets done with some basement repairs which includes our shop area, we'll be putting up about 400 square feet of shelving to hold LOTS of electro- goodies. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8 paint schemes
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
The Extra website has a gallery of pictures of Extra aircraft which is similar in shape to an RV-8. > >Shelby: >I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for my 8a. Would appreciate >have a >photo. >Thanks. >hilljw(at)aol.com >Jimmy Hill >8a, flying > > > --- > --- > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: RV-4 canopy installation
The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here? Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N13eer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Wichita Trip
I will be in Wichita on bussness all next week and would like to see an RV project or twp. Since I am waiting for my -8 finish kit to arrive I would like to see projects that are at the finish kit stage and prefer -8. If anyone in the Wichita area would be willing to show off their project, please respond off list. Thanks, Alan Kritzman N13EER(at)AOL.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "scott R" <sringen(at)hevanet.com>
Subject: Helper available in Portland OR
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Looking to help rivet, ect. to gain experience. I'm available weekday mornings and some weekends Scott in Beaverton 646-0038 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
writes: > (the tester takes the battery down to 5-10% of capacity and > you don't want to leave the battery in that state for long. > Bob, A few years back I did some research into batteries for an underwater propulsion device and I learned that the number of cycles that you got out of a battery decreased with the percent discharge of the cycles. So I am wondering what the effect on battery life is when you discharge it to 5-10% of its capacity. Is that the only way to test the battery? Bruce Green Skybolt & RV-8 plans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 canopy installation
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Mike: I am just about in the very same area of construction as you are. A local -4 builder near me used your #2 alternative. In fact he drilled and tapped #6 machine screws into the tubing framework to hold the canopy during the drilling and fitting process and then left the screws in place between the rivets. I plan to do the same although I intend to use rivnuts and #6 screws to attach the canopy to allow it to be removed easier if it was ever necessary. I have just finished the front canopy skirt (what a challenge to get a nice fit) and also a canopy hold open latch. Doug Weiler > The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the > frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet > spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling > the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy > using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then > drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these > holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy > rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over > these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here? > > Mike Wills ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-4 canopy installation
Cleckos' worked for me . They allowed for allignment to ensure that the fit-up / beat with hammer / fit-up process remained alligned during the process. BTW I used Poly Fiber Epoxy filler & a old credit card as a trowel/squeegee to place a fillet of epoxy along the boundry you are working on. I looks great ! I used pipe insulation for the sanding block to sand the fillet. willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil on 09/17/99 12:00:07 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy installation The plans call for rivet spacing of 3 inches to attach the canopy to the frame through the canopy side skirts. The manual mentions a wide rivet spacing of 8-12 inches to hold the canopy in place while fitting/drilling the side skirts. So the question is do you temporarily rivet the canopy using every third or forth hole to temporarily secure the canopy and then drill these out when its time for final rivetting? Or do you drill these holes interspersed between the holes on 3 inch centers leaving the canopy rivetted in place at these holes and simply fit the canopy skirts over these for final rivetting? Am I being clear here? Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JFW9855(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
My aileron also has an eighth of an inch clearance. It fits fine in the female airfoil template and aligns with the trailing edge of the flap perfectly. I was suprised that it was so close but I looked at other planes at OSH and posted a query to the RV list and seems that this is normal. Now I have to find a place to store the right wing while I start the left wing. Any suggestions? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: RV-3 Position light bulbs
What are the typical wattage of position lights? Does anybody have the GE number for the two pole bayonet bulb of the needed wattage? Or is the typical car taillight sufficient? Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor
Date: May 12, 1999
I am at the big bucks stage and I am looking at two engine monitors. I have read all the archives about the various models and manufactures. But I called Grand Rapids Technology about their new monitor that includes four CHTs and EGTs along with about everything else that the Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor includes. The GRT is the same price as the RMI, (but the RMI must be customer assembled for the same price). I was totally surprised at some of the new add ons and computer options that are or will be available soon. 1. You can include as an add-on a Altimeter/ROC, and airspeed indicators. 2. Shortly there will be software available for the user to customize the different screens. 3. One year return policy, all money back, no questions asked! Two year warranty. I find it intriguing that one can have all the necessary VFR instruments in one black box ( just off the top of my head, it seems that they are all there). If you can truly customize your screen, and each function has upper and lower limit alarms, this seems like a very interesting way to fly. I know some of you do not like the idea of just monitoring some alarms, but based upon my flight training, I spend most of my time looking out the windows and very little time looking at the gauges. I must admit, I have gone hours without ever looking at some of the engine gauges on the C-172s that I fly. Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more attention. This almost sounds too good to be true? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: RVs and Images..long
Date: Sep 17, 1999
<<< A builder so lucky to live in the time frame where gas, oil, engines and > airplanes and the beloved RV are present in this time, this place.>>> G'Day Buster, Bravo, another gem!! Cheers and have a great day, Ken Glover Newcastle Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Check out http://members.home.net/rv8er/shop/theshop.htm I used fire hose to hang mine on the wall...worked very well.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: JFW9855(at)aol.com <JFW9855(at)aol.com> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 9:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance > >My aileron also has an eighth of an inch clearance. It fits fine in the >female airfoil template and aligns with the trailing edge of the flap >perfectly. I was suprised that it was so close but I looked at other planes >at OSH and posted a query to the RV list and seems that this is normal. Now >I have to find a place to store the right wing while I start the left wing. >Any suggestions? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
Does anyone know where I can purchase non-crimp, screw together BNC connectors? Brian Eckstein 6A finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: steve <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Subject: RV-6(A) static line routing
Hello fellow RV-6(A) builders, Question about the static line routing on a 6(A). I have searched the archives, drawings and manual, but could not find the answer to this. I know the static line should run under the longeron from the static port to the back of the instrument panel (per figure 8-15 in the manual), with the static port being the low point in the system. Where do you route the line through the F605 bulkhead? Note, this will have a tip up canopy, so there is the canopy lock mechinsm to avoid in the upper corner of the F605, as well as the rivet pattern in the upper corner holding the F605-D, -E, -F, and -G together. Lots of -6s and -6As out there with tip up canopys.....someone has to have solved this one. Thanks, Steve Allison RV-6A fitting forward fuselage skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
In a message dated 9/17/99 6:38:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes: > Subj: Re: RV-List: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . . > Date: 9/17/99 6:38:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time > From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com > Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Does anyone know where I can purchase non-crimp, screw together BNC > connectors? > > Brian Eckstein > 6A finishing Hi Brian: I think I can help you. But first let's clarify what you're looking for. You want screw on to the cable BNC. Not screw the connectors together type... AKA...TNC. Let me know which it is and how many in what configuration. Male/Female...etc. We have some of both types BNC Screw On and TNC. Sorry but we don't show them on our site. John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The French's" <french@mag-net.com>
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Listers I have the latest version of the Grand rapids engine monitor. It is my old unit upgraded with the new software. All the EGT & CHT work and alarm at your pre-set limits. The bar grafts and rate of change monitors will be in the finished software. There are four AUX inputs and I am having some trouble making my fuel press and man press work using the cal numbers from my old unit. Fuel flow works and is very accurate with the default settings. It can be tweaked if necessary to improve accuracy. My unit has altitude and rate of climb built in and they appear to work OK although I don't use them. Much of the customisation which is to be available in the finished software shows up on my unit though it doesn't function. e.g. what goes on which page and in what position on the page. I would think that the initial set-up could be a bit time consuming and possibly a pain, but you should only have to do it once. All in All, I would say that the unit, if it performs as Greg says it will and I believe it will, should be far and away the most bang for the buck for engine monitoring. Ted French RV-6A C-FXCS flying with 16.5 hrs as of today Prince George BC ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Busick <panamared(at)brier.net> Sent: May 11, 1999 10:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor > > I am at the big bucks stage and I am looking at two engine monitors. I have > read all the archives about the various models and manufactures. But I > called Grand Rapids Technology about their new monitor that includes four > CHTs and EGTs along with about everything else that the Rocky Mountain > Engine > Monitor includes. The GRT is the same price as the RMI, (but the RMI must > be > customer assembled for the same price). > > I was totally surprised at some of the new add ons and computer options > that are or will be available soon. > 1. You can include as an add-on a Altimeter/ROC, and airspeed indicators. > 2. Shortly there will be software available for the user to customize the > different screens. > 3. One year return policy, all money back, no questions asked! Two year > warranty. > > I find it intriguing that one can have all the necessary VFR instruments in > one black box ( just off the top of my head, it seems that they are all > there). If you can truly customize your screen, and each function has upper > and lower limit alarms, this seems like a very interesting way to fly. > > I know some of you do not like the idea of just monitoring some alarms, but > based upon my flight training, I spend most of my time looking out the > windows and very little time looking at the gauges. I must admit, I have > gone hours without ever looking at some of the engine gauges on the C-172s > that I fly. Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more > attention. > > This almost sounds too good to be true? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "HP-18" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com>
Subject: Charging problem?
Date: Sep 17, 1999
- >When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate. >After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right >after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to >pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a >landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter >reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator? > >Thanks > >Kurt > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Charging problem?
Is the flashing tail light on??? > > >- > >>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate. >>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right >>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to >>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a >>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter >>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator? >> >>Thanks >> >>Kurt >> >> > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6AWING(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Drill filings in spar
Yesterday I was drilling the wing rib attachment holes in the spar webs and the 3/16" holes in the rib attachment angles. Some drill filings fell and were lodged between some of the flange strips. All subsequent spar drilling was done with tape over the external flange strips. I've managed to get all of the filings out out, but it got me thinking about something: What about the filings that will fall between the spar webs? It seems like this is something that is EXTREMELY undesirable, but yet I've seen nothing in literature about preventing this. I think it might be unpreventable. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor
From: Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com>
I've been flying with my RMI engine monitor almost a year now and would not be without it. One feature I particularly like is the audible alarm. It gets your attention immediately if a parameter goes out of limits. (The visual warning is a flashing reading of the offending parameter on the display) Mine has reminded me to turn on the aux fuel pump while doing aerobatics (low fuel pressure), it has reminded me to reduce the throttle setting during high speed descents (high rpm), and the timer function has let me know it is time to switch fuel tanks when my attention was elsewhere( in formation flights). The only criticism I have of the warning system is a minor one. It is that the warning tone for out of limits readings and the timer is the same. It would be nice to be able to tell without looking at the instrument whether you have a problem to deal with immediately or not. I would not be put off by having to assemble the unit. I built mine and my hangar mate built his with no problems. I'm a retired USAF pilot and he is an insurance salesman so you know how handy we are with tools. My hangar mate was so impressed with the monitor kit, he decided to build the microEncoder also. Bob Hall, RV-6, Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Drill filings in spar
RV6AWING(at)aol.com wrote: > > Yesterday I was drilling the wing rib attachment holes in the spar webs and > the > 3/16" holes in the rib attachment angles. Some drill filings fell and were > lodged between some of the flange strips. All subsequent spar drilling was > done with tape over the external flange strips. With the spar riveted together I don't quite understand how chips can get between the flange strips. Could you explain this in more detail. > > > I've managed to get all of the filings out out, but it got me thinking about > something: > > What about the filings that will fall between the spar webs? With the wing in the jig the drilling of the ribs to the spar is an upward affair. Gravity is causing most of the chips to fall away from the spar. Granted some small amount of chips may get between the webs, but I do not think this is a major concern. > > > It seems like this is something that is EXTREMELY undesirable, but yet I've > seen nothing in literature about preventing this. I think it might be > unpreventable. Possible that someone with a vacuum could suck the chips up as the holes are drilled. > > Gary Zilik RV-6A Pine Junction, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Xponder antenna location on 6A
Listers, For those that have gone before me where have you located the transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the position aft of the battery box since this would put it about equidistant from the 3 gear legs. Gary Zilik RV-6A - A million little details remaining Pine Junction, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A
In a message dated 9/17/99 9:03:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes: << For those that have gone before me where have you located the transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the position aft of the battery box since this would put it about equidistant from the 3 gear legs. >> Mine is in this general area (centered on the belly and about 3" fwd of the wing spar). It works flawlessly. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 17, 1999
>To Randall Henderson...... >have you considered drilling a clearence hole in the roll over/wind screen >bar to allow use of the quick release pins for the 6/6A slider frame? It may be possible to get by without that. The center of the slider sits just outside the center of the roll bar and there may be enough clearance, especially if you grind off the ends of the pins a little. Or if you think about it ahead of time, drill the frame/roller holes just a teeny bit cocked so it will miss. Also don't put the key lock too close to the fwd frame or it'll interfere (ask me how I know!) Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids Engine Monitor
In a message dated 9/17/99 5:36:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, panamared(at)brier.net writes: << Based upon the price of a new engine maybe I should pay more attention. >> I believe the GR Instrument is a very useful instrument. I have one that will be my primary engine instrument and I think recreational flying is about looking out the window and not staring at engine gages. It is there to warn me if something is going askew with the engine. I plan to record the engine parameters on a regular basis and stare at them at home to see if I am seeing any trends that should be fixed. My EIS has the new box with 4EGT's and CHT's, RPM, MP,oil T &P, fuel pressure, vacum pressure,OAT, carb throat temp,voltage,and Fuel flow rate. Sandy and Greg have always been a pleasure to deal with. My get home engine instruments are a redundant oil pressure and voltage. I also have an AOA system that gives me both lights and an oral signal when I approach a stalling angle which I feel very strongly about if you are going to do a lot of outside Gawking, especially at lower altitudes. Yea I know you can feel the airplane( provided your attention is not on something else)when it gets too slow. Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE FLA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "HP-18" <tugpilot(at)genevaonline.com>
Subject: Re: Charging problem?
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Nope....everything is off. -----Original Message----- From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 2:48 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Charging problem? > >Is the flashing tail light on??? > >> >> >>- >> >>>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate. >>>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right >>>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to >>>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a >>>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter >>>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator? >>> >>>Thanks >>> >>>Kurt >>> >>> >> >> >Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
SPRUCE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com>
Subject: RV-8 Fuselage Jig available
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Listers.. I finally have my fuselage ready to come out of the jig, and it's for sale..$100.00 Located Tampa Bay area, one piece, first time, w/ all brackets, tapcons for floor mount, bulkhead attachments. also have Van's wing tips, fuel valve for sale. Doug Gardner -8A #80717 Palm Harbor, Florida (727) 784 2600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
what I did was to contact John at AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore He has answers and all the goodies you will need. N468TC (resvervd) all wireing done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Vanderzyde <jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net>
Subject: Progress
Date: Sep 18, 1999
My RV-6A is progressing well. Empenage, and wings are complete. Currently working on the fusalage. I have an O-390-A3A Lycombing engine that has a damaged carb. What type of induction system should be considered to replace the original carb? John Vanderzyde London, Ontario. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
In a message dated 9/18/99 8:19:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, WFACT01(at)aol.com writes: > > SPRUCE > > Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's need a special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Noise while building
I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. Semper Fi John Lawson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 1999
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: VM1000 and EC100
Glad to see you back Scott. F1Rocket(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Hello Listers, > > A few months ago I announced that Team Rocket had an OEM for VM1000 units and > the EC100 warning and cautionary system through Vision Microsystems. We were > offering these units at our OEM prices for a limited quantity. We have since > sold many of these units and many listers have taken advantage of this great > opportunity. Well, we have just a few VM1000s and EC100s left at our OEM > price. When they are gone, the price will go up. We will still offer them at > great prices, but not our OEM price. > > Now, the last time that I announced opportunities to save a few hundred > bucks, it was not received well. This system may not be for everyone. I > personally think that it is one of the finer systems on the market and have > purchased one for my Rocket. So, if you are interested, call me at > 561-748-2429. If you are not interested...hit the delete key. This deal is > just for those who love aviation and like great prices. > > Scott > Team Rocket, Inc. > See our catalog at HREF="www.matronics.com/rocket">www.matronics.com/rocket > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
>> >> >Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's need a >special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't. > The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for use in airplanes. They do not create reliable, gas tight joints in the electrical connections between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all you will find on any certified airplane. Note also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier manufacturer of wire terminating products does not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I think it's safe to assume that if such a device could be sucessfully designed to match the performance expected by their customers, they'd certainly do it . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging problem?
>>When I start up the engine on my Cessna 150, the ammeter shows a moderate. >>After a few minutes, the ammeter shows a much reduced charge. Now, right >>after this the ammeter will "pulse" +- 2 or 3 amps and will continue to >>pulse unless I put a reasonable load on the electrical system, like a >>landing light. The pulses will go away under this load and the ammeter >>reads a slight load. Anyone know what this is? Do I need a new regulator? This symptom is often caused by tiny increases in the resistance of the wiring between the bus and the regulator. The increase is measured in milliohms and includes characteristics of aging of ALL the components in the path including battery/alternator master switch, circuit breaker, terminals, joints, connnectors, etc. Your symptoms are so tiny as to be unworthy of any effort at this time. A mechanic may replace ONE of the afforementioned parts and "fix" the problem while in fact, all of the other parts are still in their aged condition and the problem may soon return. For older airplanes, a complete changeout of components in the regulators field supply path will get you anohter 30 years of service. Sometimes a new regulator will fix it but it may be worse too. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Your air compressor will probably creat more noise than anything else. You will find the riviting to be short bursts. Don't think it will be a problem for you. John Lawson wrote: > > > I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much > noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of > it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of > my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the > restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next > recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are > close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. > > Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. > > Semper Fi > John Lawson > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Parker43rp(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: conical mount bushings
I feel that the $300 spent for the Lord conical mounts was a worthwhile investment. The vibration that I experienced at several power settings on my 0-320-const-speed RV-6 with the original solid rubber mounts was practically eliminated by replacing them with the Lord mounts. The Lord conical mounts are rubber-metal bonded units of unique eccentric construction that requires a special orientation of each of the 4 pairs on the aircraft engine mount bushings. Fortunately, Van has anticipated this problem! Each engine facing bushing on Van's engine mount is marked with a 1/8" hole that matches with a similar hole in the Lord mount. A !/4" length of 1/8" rod can be used as a pin to maintain the orientation of each pair of mounts. Ray Parker Ocala, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Date: Sep 18, 1999
John, I feel like i'm a church mouse in my basement . It seems like everything I do is quiet. >>>BUT<<< when I turn on the compressor it wakes up the dead at the local cemetery. I believe that the compressor is the one and only noise concern you are going to have. To that matter, I offer this. 1. Use a belted, fill to the line with oil yourself, type of compressor because it makes much less noise than the oilless types. 2. Put a lawn mower muffler on the compressor intake of whatever you buy. that will quiet it a little bit. 3. If you use a electronic drill motor you will see very little noise from that and you will use your compressor a whole lot less. If you use a compressor large enough to paint the plane, eg 5HP-25 G, it will run only for two to three minutes at the start of a session and not much after that. When it recharges it only runs for about a minute. 3. Put the compressor in the basement and run the hose to the garage. HTH Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com P.S. Your neighbors bedrooms being closest to your house may be a blessing. Your sessions will likely be during the day or early evening. Chances are they won't be using the bed rooms during those times. There has also been proposed on this liist the building of a sound proofed box, inside or outside the house. writes: >John Lawson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: VM1000 and EC100
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:50:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << Glad to see you back Scott. >> Thanks! A kind word goes along way! Much appreciated. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Date: Sep 18, 1999
John: One thing that you need to realize that 99% of the building process does not involve much noise at all. Riveting, the biggest noise-maker, is such a small part of the building process that it can be easily managed from a noise standpoint. My shop is currently in my basement (at least until I need to jig up the fuselage) and is directly under the bedrooms of all my kids. To date, I have not been informed by the spousal unit that I am in any way a nuisance.....at least when it comes to building my RV! I would think that you would be able to schedule your riveting times so that you are not pounding rivets at 2:00am or anything, and perhaps a warning to your neighbors would be in order when you do rivet. From how you have described your garage/shop, I don't think there will be much of a problem anyway. Best of luck to you. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A 25171 Hanging flap Peshtigo, WI -----Original Message----- From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 8:40 AM Subject: RV-List: Noise while building > > >I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much >noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of >it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of >my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the >restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next >recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are >close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. > >Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. > >Semper Fi >John Lawson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: RV-6(A) static line routing
Date: Sep 18, 1999
>Where >do you route the line through the F605 bulkhead? Note, this will have >a >tip up canopy, so there is the canopy lock mechinsm to avoid in the >upper corner of the F605, as well as the rivet pattern in the upper >corner holding the F605-D, -E, -F, and -G together. >Thanks, > >Steve Allison >RV-6A >fitting forward fuselage skins > Steve: I ran mine under the longeron all the way to the instrument panel. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRawls3896(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Noise while building
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:39:10 AM Central Daylight Time, lm4(at)juno.com writes: << P.S. Your neighbors bedrooms being closest to your house may be a blessing. Your sessions will likely be during the day or early evening. Chances are they won't be using the bed rooms during those times. There has also been proposed on this list the building of a sound proofed box, inside or outside the house. >> Be careful when building a sound proofed box. Make sure the motor gets plenty of ventilation for cooling purposes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
When I had my Electronics genius set up my encoder, transponder, he threw the screw type away that came from King. Said they were useless, bad news, and other things not fit to print. so I paid for the crimp-ons and have never had a problem. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh EAA volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continous years > > >>> >>> >>Spruce only carries crimp-on BNC's. I sent them back. The crimp-on's >need a >>special crimp tool. The Screw-on's don't. >> > The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for > use in airplanes. They do not create reliable, > gas tight joints in the electrical connections > between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors > of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all > you will find on any certified airplane. Note > also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier > manufacturer of wire terminating products does > not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I > think it's safe to assume that if such a device > could be sucessfully designed to match the > performance expected by their customers, they'd > certainly do it . . . > > > Bob . . . > > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== > < Independence Kansas: the > > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > > < Your source for brand new > > < 40 year old airplanes. > > ================================ > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List:6A for sale
I have just completed flying off the 25hr restriction on my 6A. Now, I am ready to start building my 4th RV. Anybody know anybody that might be interested in buying mine? Also, I have a beautiful 1968 300hp 4-speed Corvette to trade for any RV stuff, value about $15,000.For details, please contact me e-mail. Jim H. RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Sorry to be so absent from my own question, but it wasn't my idea (work sucks). > It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is > whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it > on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust. > > Take care, > Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) I thought about this, but figured I could make sure the canopy was sitting behind the spot where the notch was. For an -8, gravity will keep the canopy from ever sliding forward accidentally. but I don't know about an -8A. While opening or closing the canopy, you would just have to make sure to keep some downward pressure on the canopy while sliding it past the notch. >I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget >to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that >point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6 >slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in >the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{ > >I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the >game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close >to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I >don't think pulling the pins is a bad option. > >Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Now this is something I hadn't thought of, and boy would it ruin your day. I'd like to say I'd never forget to latch the canopy, but... I suppose the notches could be located far enough back that the canopy likely (?) wouldn't reach them if it popped open, but that also makes it harder to reach yourself if needed. I've even thought of drilling vertical holes in one of the rails to allow a pin to be dropped in as a stop. This could be located various places for various reasons, but I can't say that it would be a perfect solution. Now that you mention it, I also need to take a closer look at how the handle might interfere with the pins. >How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut >out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly > > >By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot >the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy. >Charlie Kuss I thought about some sort of removable top cover for the notches, but it wouldn't require any fewer steps than just pulling the pins. If you could make a real nice cover though, it might be easier to actuate than the pins. As I think about it, this might actually be the best compromise. Make a cover for the top of the notches that is easily removable in flight. The only time you would likely need to get rid of the canopy in a big hurry, and with the least effort, is due to a loss of control when you're wearing a chute. I see this as a planned aerobatic session for most people. There are times when you need to get rid of the canopy for other reasons, such as an off field landing where the plane might flip over. In those cases, you will probably have enough time to release the covers prior to opening the canopy. As I imagine it, the procedure would be to have the covers in place until you plan to start your aerobatics, then they would be release along with other items like making sure you're on the inverted tank, and triple checking your seat belts. I'll have to think about this some more, especially a method to fashion the cover, but I already have a couple ideas. I think I like it :-) Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A
Put mine in the air filter box after going through archives. Don't know if it will work well since I'm not flying yet but others have done this successfully so it may be worth consideration if your not in to external antennas. Dave Beizer RV6A Moreno Valley Ca Painting ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Try lining the walls with those inexpensive moving pads. They should deaden any of the "leakable" noise. Good luck and let us know how it works. -----Original Message----- From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 8:31 AM Subject: RV-List: Noise while building > >I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much >noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of >it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of >my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the >restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next >recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are >close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. > >Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. > >Semper Fi >John Lawson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
In a message dated 9/18/99 9:44:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes: > The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for > use in airplanes. They do not create reliable, > gas tight joints in the electrical connections > between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors > of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all > you will find on any certified airplane. Note > also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier > manufacturer of wire terminating products does > not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I > think it's safe to assume that if such a device > could be sucessfully designed to match the > performance expected by their customers, they'd > certainly do it . . . > > This is certainly confusing since my new Garmin Xponder and my new IImorrow GX-60 both come with screw-on BNC's.?.???? Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Binding is not the only issue - the gap serves an important aerodynamic purpose. I believe this type of aileron are called Frise (sp?) ailerons. The idea is to flow some of the higher pressure air from the bottom over the top of the aileron. Too little gap, and the aileron can be much less effective. I think the plans call out a min/max spec for the gap, if they don't, call Van's. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ---------- > > How much clearance do some of you have between your aileron and the gap seal > at the closest point? My aileron comes within 1/8 of an inch of the gap seal > at the closest point. I don't think it would ever bind up in normal flight > as it would take a considerable downward force on the top of the wing > trailing edge to deflect it. Since the top is the low pressure side, it > should be fine, but I need some more opinions on this one. > > Mark McGee > Upstate NY > RV-4 > Finishing second wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Noise while building
If you leave the garage door closed, you're not likely to have any problem. To verify this, just have someone stand outside your shop while you have the compressor and the rivet gun going. They will probably hear one or the other, but the real question is whether a neighbor inside his/her house would hear anything. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
Date: Sep 18, 1999
I tried installing screw on Coax terminals on my radio and nav and finally had to have them cut off and the crimp on type installed. Communications were unreadable and considerable power loss due to poor connection. Could be due in part to a poor installation by myself, but the crimp on ones solved the problems. FWIW. Ed Anderson RV-6A Matthews NC > > The screw on terminals are NOT recommended for > > use in airplanes. They do not create reliable, > > gas tight joints in the electrical connections > > between conductors and connectors. Coax connectors > > of the crimp-on or solder/clamp variety are all > > you will find on any certified airplane. Note > > also that AMP Incorporated, the world's premier > > manufacturer of wire terminating products does > > not offer a screw on coax connector . . . I > > think it's safe to assume that if such a device > > could be sucessfully designed to match the > > performance expected by their customers, they'd > > certainly do it . . . > > > > > This is certainly confusing since my new Garmin Xponder and my new IImorrow > GX-60 both come with screw-on BNC's.?.???? > > Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Xponder antenna location on 6A
Gary, Mine is at forward right hand corner of cockpit...works fine...no interference from legs apparent. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A flying toward 100 hours Gary Zilik wrote: > For those that have gone before me where have you located the > transponder antenna on the 6A. My thoughts are to center it just aft of > the battery box or directly under the fuel selector valve. I favor the > position aft of the battery box since this would put it about > equidistant from the 3 gear legs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
> > I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level > question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much > noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight > months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about > 60% of it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) 60 percent?!!?? You get _60_ percent??!! Wow! :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings rehung, claiming my half. Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: Reno time trials
I'd like to report a successful second annual Reno/Stead time trials RV trip. Four of us flew down in two -6A's from Portland. Highlights included a minor wheel pant damage (you did pre-flight those mounting screws didn't you?) at Cedarville, CA (an aircraft junkyard) and some low flight over the Black Rock Desert (no wild horse sightings this year). As I buzzed, no, let's say flew over, a congregation of cars in the desert, I wondered what all those stakes were. It finally sunk in as I was practically over them, model rockets-"come on, just a little bit to the left, I'll have me my first RV!". Our other annual event is to "fly over" the clean-up crew for the "Burning Man Festival", a festival to anarchy (read this as drugs and nudity as best as I can assess). We flew directly into Stead on Sunday and viewed the race planes, no admission. I was never sure if we were actually supposed to be there but no one seemed to care. Quite the thrill to taxi past Rare Bear on the ramp. Tracy Saylors plane was there along with many Lancairs and Glassairs and Questairs. We should start a 160 hp RV class. As far as the rest of the trip, I'm mum and guilty as charged, but so is everyone else, no place we know like Reno! Get those planes finished, there's sights to be seen! kevin (discovered I actually do like to "dance") ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Date: Sep 18, 1999
In my neighborhood, the houses are about 10-12 feet between them. I drill and rivet till the cows come home with no problems. I even leave my garage cracked because it supplies my evap cooler. I have an understanding with my neighbors that the compressor goes off at 9:00 P.M. Works fine.. You should have no probs...just talk to them and see what their schedule is like.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 1:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Noise while building > >I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much >noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of >it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of >my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the >restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next >recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are >close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. > >Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. > >Semper Fi >John Lawson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Bruce, I am involved in the manufacture of battery chargers and am often called upon to check the capacity of customers lead acid batteries. I believe you are correct in saying that a full or near full capacity test will take one cycle of life out of a battery but in applications such as aircraft batteries, the lost caused by an annual test is insignificant. In an aircraft situation that offers quick starting and a capable alternator/regulator for charging, time and high temperatures are your main enemies. Batteries not designed for cycling and regularly used as such can have lives of less than 50 cycles. In this event the test does present a significant loss. A high quality lead acid battery designed for deep cycling will give 500 cycles or more and in this case the significance drops by a factor of 10. We get involved when one of our chargers is blamed for a golf cart that quits before the 18th. The capacity test usually proves the need for battery replacement. Allowing a battery to run flat will also loose a cycle and much more if it is not promptly recharged. I have seen a label on a Concord RG aircraft battery that states that the battery is not airworthy if it fails a well defined test that simulates a full aircraft load for one hour. This to be done at annual inspection. The AME that had removed it for charging had never read the label and did not know what it meant. It also called for preparation and recovery with a regulated charger that presented another mystery to the professional. By the way the test could be performed with a test meter, a few headlamps, a stop watch and of course the regulated charger. A box of tricks imitating and automating this collection would be nice. This sounds like what Bob is planning. So are we. Noel Drew RV-6 Durban South Africa www.hawkins.co.za --Original Message----- From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> Date: 17 September 1999 09:44 Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries >A few years back I did some research into batteries for an underwater >propulsion device and I learned that the number of cycles that you got >out of a battery decreased with the percent discharge of the cycles. So >I am wondering what the effect on battery life is when you discharge it >to 5-10% of its capacity. Is that the only way to test the battery? > >Bruce Green >Skybolt & RV-8 plans > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
With regards to screw-on connectors, let's be sure we're all on the same page. I am refering to the type that screws together, not the type that screws directly on the cable as is common to ancient IBM SNA networks. I apologize if I confused anyone. The ones that came with the GPS and Xponder are multi-element units that require careful combing of the braid and soldering of the center conductor. There is a rubber seal that seats on an internal donut. The elements screw together and are tightened with a 7/16" or 1/2" wrench. These are the ones that appear better to me than the crimp-on type since they will seal internally better, hold the cable tight, and require no crimp tool. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Kachmar" <tkachmar(at)ibm.net>
Subject: RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Listers- Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It looks to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign for me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails me they want to se them. Scott, Thanks for your return call on Fri regarding the trouble with my Wd 822. The pictures are attached. Basically there does not look like there is enough material on the "wings" of the weldment to get edge distance on the bottom row of holes that pass through the lower longeron. The holes in the picture are only drilled #30 now and have yet to be drilled to #19 for the # 8 flat screws as required by the plans. One side is worse than the other (#30 hole broke the edge of the Wd822). I measured the edge distance on the top row an they are fine. I placed the Wd 822 as per the plans and instructions-tight against the lower longeron and forward against the 802A bulkhead. The Wd 822 could not be any tighter to the lower longeron without removing any material from the bottom of the steel Wd822-not a good idea I would think. Everything in this part of the fuselage has gone together well-no forcing or "wailing" on anything. The project has been without suprises up to now and everything fit well especially in the fwd fuselage. I can not think of a reason that this part, the Wd822 should be out of alignment. It nests tightly against both the lower longeron and the aux. longeron. There is room for more material on the "wings" without interfering with both longerons. The plans have a note that stresses at least 1/4 in must remain from the #8 screw hole and the edge of the Wd 822. Ours is less tha half to 0 edge distange. The only way that I can see this working is by having a Wd822 with more material on the bottom part that rests on the lower longeron. I'd buy replacement Wd822's but I do not see how, with the current part "wing size", I would be able to mee the restrictions for edge distance as called for in the plans. Thanks Tom and John 80508 817/366-8585 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment
Date: Sep 19, 1999
> Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It looks > to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the > same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign for > me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails me > they want to se them. Tom, You're not alone, but I haven't heard of anyone that had the problem quite as severely as you seem to. They are very demanding of minimum edge distance, but I bet there are few (if any) RV-8's that meet the edge distance on every hole. On mine, I recall that the upper holes on one of the arms violated the ideal edge distance slightly, but not enough to consider scrapping the parts and starting over. Like you said, there isn't anything you can do to position the part any better, the weldment just isn't quite right. Good luck, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8 Wd 822 gear weldment
Date: Sep 19, 1999
> > > > Here's a portion of an email I sent to Van's regarding my Wd 822. It >looks > > to me the "wings" on the weldment are too small. Has anyone else had the > > same problem? Nothing in the archives that I could find-not a good sign >for > > me I guess... I sent him some pictures that I can send if any one emails >me > > they want to se them. > >Tom, > >You're not alone, but I haven't heard of anyone that had the problem quite >as severely as you seem >to. They are very demanding of minimum edge distance, but I bet there are >few (if any) RV-8's that >meet the edge distance on every hole. On mine, I recall that the upper >holes on one of the arms >violated the ideal edge distance slightly, but not enough to consider >scrapping the parts and >starting over. Like you said, there isn't anything you can do to position >the part any better, the >weldment just isn't quite right. > >Good luck, >Russell Duffy >Navarre, FL >RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next) Tom, Same deal here. But only on a few hole locations. There's a lot of structural support in that area, so I didn't worry about it. Bottom line: BUILD DA PLANE. Okay okay, I know that sounds trite, but since you had a hole break through the edge of the weldment, I would proceed exactly as you have done and have Van's deal with it. We are finding a few of these lil gotchas now that many -8's are far along in construction and many are flying. The main control column is one that is finally being resolved for good.....well, we'll see for sure when my new part arrives! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD fiberglass o' plenty Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: prop needed 0-320 RV-4
From: "James Freeman" <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
Hi listers Posting for a friend. Need a fixed pitch prop for a 150HP 0-320 equipped RV-4, wood or Sensenich metal. Not too large a diameter as this is an older airframe with the shorter gear legs. Reply to me off list Thanks James Freeman RV-8 QB fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: PM100II Wiring
Date: Sep 19, 1999
On the PS Engineering PM100II intercom, have any builders bothered with the AUX jacks? Have you purchased both 2-and-3-conductor shielded cable or just used 3-wire for everything? Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: prop needed 0-320 RV-4
Dale Alexander listed one last month. Sensenich wood, 84" pitch 72" diameter with 12" backplate, frontplate, spinner and all hardware FAA certified for $795.00. Prop had 200 hr. He listed a telco number 616-665-9524. It came off an 0-320 and RV-4 James Freeman wrote: > > > Hi listers > Posting for a friend. Need a fixed pitch prop for a 150HP 0-320 equipped > RV-4, wood or Sensenich metal. Not too large a diameter as this is an older > airframe with the shorter gear legs. > > Reply to me off list > > Thanks > James Freeman > RV-8 QB fuse > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: New Wings?
Date: Sep 19, 1999
All 3-ers, After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed 'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !) What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers ? Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ?? ( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book' instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! ) Bob (UK) RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: 9494pyong2187(at)cse.hanyang.ac.kr.Sun,
19 Sep 1999 13:25:44.-0700(at)matronics.com Deliver-To:
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: Save Up To 50% on International Calling
Dear rv-list(at)matronics.com, Save Up To 50% on International Calling ..for residents inside AND outside the USA Here is a sample of some of our rates FROM the USA To: Rates(US$) COUNTRY 0.14/min. Australia 0.23/min. Brazil - Sao Paolo 0.12/min. Canada 0.52/min. China 0.14/min. France 0.12/min. Germany 0.10/min. Hong Kong 0.78/min. India 0.21/min. Israel 0.14/min. Japan - Tokyo 0.13/min. New Zealand 0.40/min. Russia 0.23/min. South Korea 0.12/min. UK - Rates apply 24 hrs/day, 7 days per week - NO sign-up fees, NO monthly fees, and NO surcharges - You DO NOT have to SWITCH your current provider - Ideal for Home and Business - For residents OUTSIDE the USA, we have INT'L CALLBACK Contact us for our low callback rates. Contact us for more information and complete rate table at: softpaw(at)bigfoot.com Please type "info" in the subject line. Thank You! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: Re: speaking of batteries
does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans, i saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something? scott burgerlized and vandelized ( spared by floyd but hit bigtime by burglerers ) waiting on new tools tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: New Wings?
Robert, I have done the mods on the original Type I wings. What exactly is the problem area you are running into? I agree that setting the 3/16" rivets can be tough (especially is you have a light rivet hammer and bucking bar), but I understand that you can use all bolts (instead of the rivets). Finn Robert Hodgson wrote: > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Robert Hodgson" > > All 3-ers, > > After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all > the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed > 'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A > difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out > there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new > rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar > distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !) > What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing > builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers > ? > Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ?? > > ( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book' > instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! ) > > Bob (UK) > > RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: speaking of batteries
Date: Sep 19, 1999
I believe you will find the "offset" of the battery is to permit you to run throttle and mixture control cables from the center post of the instrument panel past the battery and thru the firewall in the most direct route to the appropriate position on the carburator slung under the engine without bends in them. Ed > > does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans, i > saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something? > scott > burgerlized and vandelized ( spared by floyd but hit bigtime by burglerers ) > waiting on new tools > tampa > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: speaking of batteries
Date: Sep 19, 1999
> >does anyone know why the battery is offset on the mount in the 6a plans, i >saw sam buchananons pixs and his is centered, am i missing something? >scott To make a spot for the engine control cables to pass to the side of the battery on the way to the firewall. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Subject: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction. jrdial@hal-pc.org I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried many things with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: For Sale (Bede-4)
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
I have had several replies to my original post and I replied to each one that I received. However, we had a power failure (Floyd) that caused me to lose some mail. If anyone has not received a response from me, please send me another note, and I will get back to you within a day. Regards, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy
Date: Sep 19, 1999
> JR I initially had a problem with Nose Wheel Shimmy. I increased the pressure from the bottom nut on the nose gear to where it took 30 lbs force to move the nose gear vice the 20 lbs Van calls for. That helped but still had a shimmy until I fiberglassed the wood strips to the steel gear rod. No more shimmy. Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Matthews NC > Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction. > jrdial@hal-pc.org > > I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried many things with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: Re: For Sale (Bede-4)
hi tony, i did not read your add for the bd-4 for sale, my friend and i are looking for one. could you please give me the information on the bd. i'd appreciate it very much. i live on long island in ny where is Hopewell Junction? we can always fly up and look at it. regards dan carley dfcpac(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: Mixture Arm Bushing
The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the end of the control cable is a 3/16". Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should I use to make the bushing or can I buy one? Finally done the baffles! Bill Pagan N565BW(Reserved) "The original RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: Re: RG-400 coax, crimp tools and other goodies . . .
In a message dated 9/19/99 10:10:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes: << With regard to screw-on connectors, let's be sure we're all on the same page. I am referring to the type that screws together, not the type that screws directly on the cable as is common to ancient IBM SNA networks. I apologize if I confused anyone.>> I think a lot of the respondents were confused as was I. The "screw on" types have no place on a reliable installation. <> I have had lots of bad experiences in the past with the common "screw together" BNC connectors that you are referring to. We used them in the USAF for all of our 'O'-scope and signal cables because the "crimp ons" were not yet available. We periodically had to cut and reterminate our cables because over time any normal movement caused the shield wires to slowly break one at a time and become intermittent. The "crimp on" type supports this area very well (virtually no relative motion to start shield wires breaking) and I prefer them. They really are a better mousetrap, but if you must use the screw ons, leave extra length for future rework. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Fellow Listers: I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG, etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the likelihood of nose wheel shimmy? Doug MN Wing =========== Doug Weiler, RV-4 finishing kit Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 1999
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Reno time trials
Wanna race? The Copperstate fly in has a 160hp class for their Apple Valley to Williams X-C race. Give it a try, very well organized and a whole lot of fun. n3773 wrote: > > I'd like to report a successful second annual Reno/Stead time trials RV > trip. Four of us flew down in two -6A's from Portland. Highlights > included a minor wheel pant damage (you did pre-flight those mounting > screws didn't you?) at Cedarville, CA (an aircraft junkyard) and some low > flight over the Black Rock Desert (no wild horse sightings this year). As > I buzzed, no, let's say flew over, a congregation of cars in the desert, I > wondered what all those stakes were. It finally sunk in as I was > practically over them, model rockets-"come on, just a little bit to the > left, I'll have me my first RV!". Our other annual event is to "fly over" > the clean-up crew for the "Burning Man Festival", a festival to anarchy > (read this as drugs and nudity as best as I can assess). We flew directly > into Stead on Sunday and viewed the race planes, no admission. I was never > sure if we were actually supposed to be there but no one seemed to care. > Quite the thrill to taxi past Rare Bear on the ramp. Tracy Saylors plane > was there along with many Lancairs and Glassairs and Questairs. We should > start a 160 hp RV class. As far as the rest of the trip, I'm mum and > guilty as charged, but so is everyone else, no place we know like Reno! > Get those planes finished, there's sights to be seen! kevin > (discovered I actually do like to "dance") > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Doug, While all the variables you mention do/can effect nose wheel shimmy, you did not mention one and you might check with your friend. Does the nose gear rod have wooden braces fiberglassed to the strut?? It is my opinion (no scientific analsys), that this steel rod is like a big spring and if you perturbe it, it will tend to viberate and depending on the interaction between the nose gear/ground/gear they can cause the amplification of any tendency of the rod to viberate. I tried the nose gear without the wooden stiffeners and had shimmy, I added the wood strips and have had no nose gear shimmy since. FWF Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews NC > Fellow Listers: > > I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind > landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel > shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy > damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of > variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG, > etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the > likelihood of nose wheel shimmy? > > Doug > MN Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 1999
Subject: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy ( Verbose)
In a message dated 9/19/99 20:46:18, dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes: Fellow Listers: I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG, etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the likelihood of nose wheel shimmy? Doug MN Wing >> Of course I have some opinions on how to fly almost every phase of flight, including crosswind landings in the RV-6A. It is revealing I think, that I have never experienced nose shimmy on take off. Only on landing. this leads to some conclusions on my part. First I think this is because the nose wheel is not getting any sideways disturbance on the take off roll. Doug, the only (three) times I have experienced nose shimmy have been in crosswind landings which exceeded 23K. I believe that the phenomenom is caused by the nose wheel coming in initial contact with the runway in a slight crab angle and at high speed. The only way I have been able to avoid it under high cross wind landing conditions is to keep the nose off the runway until the ground speed is below 60 MPH. This requires a lot of finesse and an intimate knowledge and feel of just what the pitch attitude is where the nose is just above the runway. The other problem is psychological. I find it very hard to not lower the nose immediately after a crosswind landing, since this is what I did in every other tri gear plane I flew. Unfortunately those others had nose steering and shimmy dampners. In the 6A, however, lowering the nose immediately is always a bad idea. It does nothing good for you, except possibly expose a better field of view. My conclusions are based on the fact that the times when it did not shimmy were when I let it down in the streamlined straight ahead position, at a speed below 60MPH. I would be happy to hear from others who have tested more than I have but I am probably on the high side. Have about 700 landings, but only about a dozen of the really challenging gusty crosswind variety. Some other listers may have some better techniques and I would be glad to test them out. I should add that when I did feel shimmy I was able to gingerly raise the nose back up, which always stopped the shimmy immediately. I have never got any damage or even hit the stops, but it definitely is something you want to avoid. I remind all that Van says to inspect it any time after a hard landing or shimmy is experienced So for you that are not yet flying I would recommend not doing your initial flight test if the crosswind component plus gust is more than 23K,.. unless you have to. Disclaimer. I am not currently an instructor and am barely a private pilot. D Walsh RV-6A 510 hours now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The French's" <french@mag-net.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy
Date: Sep 19, 1999
One person found that a persistent shimmy problem disappeared when he lowered the tire pressure from about 30 psi to 20 psi. More drag on the tire keeps it straight???? Ted RV-6A flying Prince George BC ----- Original Message ----- From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org> Sent: September 19, 1999 5:01 PM Subject: RV-List: Wanted Wing Kit - Nose Wheel Shimmy > > > Wanted wing kit for RV-6/A in any stage of construction. > jrdial@hal-pc.org > > I am having problem with nose wheel shimmy on RV-6A. Have tried many things with no real sucess. Has anybody got any suggestions? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: Mixture Arm Bushing
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Bill, I had the same problem on my carb. What I did is went down to the hardware store and bought a 1/4" piece of brass rod and cut it approximately 1/8" longer than the width of the arm. I then pounded the brass rod into the hole and the extra length allowed expansion inside the hole, much like a normal rivet expands in shank diameter when it is bucked. The brass that was still sticking out was ground flush, and a 3/16" hole was drilled with a drill press. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ Final touches on fuselage after painting ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Re: Mixture Arm Bushing
BABBET or brass is the bushing material of choice. I went to home depo I secuced a babbet ( babbet is brass, copper & other junk ) piece & reamed it to size then spun it with a drill against a file to dress it down to slip into the arm.....use washers to secure & besure to use the oversize washers for the throttle attach fitting.... pagan(at)cboss.com on 09/19/99 09:44:20 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Mixture Arm Bushing The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the end of the control cable is a 3/16". Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should I use to make the bushing or can I buy one? Finally done the baffles! Bill Pagan N565BW(Reserved) "The original RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for
Pre-dimpled Platenuts
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Bob. GaryZ & Gary S, Pat, Gar ,and Ed thanks for all the good tips! First fiberglss wingtip almost fitted -:) Your inputs will be good for the archives since the first task builders FEAR FACTOR has alomst disapeared. I am the only one to take two days for a new task and about three hours redoing the same task again? Do not archieve. Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| Lakewood/ Denver, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Re: New Wings?
Don't forget the RV8 wing failure...it has a new spar design with a hugh cut-outS for lightning holes. The failed -8 wing design hasn't been fully explained as of this date. All tests & analysis said basically " it should'nt of failed " ...........but it failed & everyone seems to have forgotten that. I think a -3 wing building is in your future. Don't Frankstein stitch -4 , -6, -8 , or -9 wings to your -3.........BESIDES ALL THE WORK WHO WOULD BUY YOUR -3 WHEN IT COMES TIME TO SELL ???? bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk on 09/19/99 04:27:14 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: New Wings? All 3-ers, After working on the latest wing mod for a while I'm not sure I can do all the drilling, reaming for bolts and/or setting 3/16 rivets in a completed 'dry' wing without derivetting some ribs and more skin for access. A difficult job to do properly and the end result is not elegant. Anyone out there like me considering biting the bullet and starting over with the new rv8-style wings ? This will mean a new centre bulkhead, and interspar distance may not be the same etc etc ( sob !) What about the QB wings - (at $6575 (!) less "a discount" for existing builders). Anyone know how much discount for us unpaid development engineers ? Or is it time to quit at last, and take up golf ?? ( - and on the main list they're complaining about the lack of 'cook-book' instructions in their new QB kits . . . ! ! ) Bob (UK) RV-3 ASB/R (Amazingly-Sloooow-Build / Rebuild) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Bill, I used Alum tubing... Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct ____ From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> Subject: RV-List: Mixture Arm Bushing The mixture arm on my carb takes a 1/4" bolt. The bearing on the end of the control cable is a 3/16". Van's instructions say to use a bushing. No problem but what should I use to make the bushing or can I buy one? Finally done the baffles! Bill Pagan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Doug, First, don't over lubricate the parts, especially the Bellville conical washers. Unless you have a tire that is way out of balance, just setting the required torque setting should keep it from shimmying. Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct ____ From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A nose wheel shimmy Fellow Listers: I friend of mine has purchased a ready built -6A. During a cross wind landing the other day, he experienced a pretty significant nose wheel shimmy. I really don't know anything about a -6A, but he says the shimmy damper arrangement is set to the proper torque. Granted there are lots of variables involved in solving this problem (tire pressure, wheel pant CG, etc). Do any of you -6A experts have a good method of reducing the likelihood of nose wheel shimmy? Doug MN Wing =========== Doug Weiler, RV-4 finishing kit Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel H Kight <kightd@basf-corp.com>
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Plexiglass bit warning
Fellow listers, At Sun-N-Fun this year, I bought a 5/32" plastic bit (made by Hanson) from Cleaveland Aircraft. I practiced on some scrap Plexiglass first, and it makes very nice, clean holes. When I actually started drilling my tip-up canopy last week, I wanted a 1/8" bit so I could cleco everything together. Instead of ordering one and waiting a week, I went to my local industrial tool supply and asked for a bit to drill Plexiglass. "Sure thing. That will be 81 cents." It was the right diameter, and had the steep angle on the point like the Hanson bit, so I assumed it was the same. It wasn't. I didn't practice with it since the 5/32" bit worked so well, and the first time I tried it was on my canopy. It started OK, but then bound up and CRACK! Three cracks radiated from the hole, but fortunately didn't travel more than 1/4". I stop drilled the cracks with the Hanson bit and will not have to order another canopy (Whew!) I now understand about "zero degree rake angle" for a Plexiglass drill bit. The cutting edge of the bit doesn't "screw" down into the Plexiglass, it "scrapes" the surface away as it makes the hole. Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland, Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local supplier. P.S. My IO-320 should ship from AeroSport Power today. Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!! Danny Kight Anderson, SC RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy) kightd(at)basf.com EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep. Sonerai IILT (350 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 1999
From: Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net>
Subject: Re: conical mount bushings
Mike Wills wrote: > Are the more expensive Lord bushings significantly better to > justify the high price? > I've gotten more than twice the life out of the expensive mounts (Lord J6230-1) and counting.... haven't notice any drop off in the excellent vibration dampening. Much of my flying is competition-styled aerobatics and the "cheap" bushings (Lyc 71032) wouldn't last me 75-100 hrs. IMHO, they're worth it. Mark RV4 owner KAWO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: PM100II Wiring
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Dennis, I have a PM2000 intercom in my bird. I did not use the aux jacks because the unit is supposed to pass through the connections between the mic and the headset directly into the aircraft radio when the power is off. It probably is a good idea to wire it in, but I think the chances are very small the intercom will malfunction to the point that it would break the connection to your comm radio. You can land without a radio, right? As far as the shielding on the mic and headset wires go, I used single conductor shielded wire for each to minimize any effects of crosstalk between the headset and mic leads. Bob Japundza N244BJ RV-6 -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 3:03 PM Subject: RV-List: PM100II Wiring > ---------- > From: Dennis Persyk[SMTP:DPERSYK(at)WORLDNET.ATT.NET] > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 3:03:22 PM > To: rv-list > Subject: RV-List: PM100II Wiring > Auto forwarded by a Rule > On the PS Engineering PM100II intercom, have any builders bothered with the AUX jacks? Have you purchased both 2-and-3-conductor shielded cable or just used 3-wire for everything? Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Plexiglass bit warning
> >Fellow listers, > >Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland, >Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local >supplier. > >Danny Kight >Anderson, SC >RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy) I have drilled and clecoed the canopy to the frame using a standard #40 high speed bit running at low rpms. I plan to use a unibit to increase the hole size as recommended by several listers in the archives. Ive practiced with the unibit on lots of scrap with no problems but havent tried it on the canopy yet. I'll know by the end of the week whether or not this works. Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Re: Plexiglass bit warning
A uni-bit works wonders with the plexiglass. I have installed many blank windshields & side windows with the unibit. Be sure its a warm piece of plexi before the drilling operation kightd@basf-corp.com on 09/20/99 01:11:17 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass bit warning Fellow listers, At Sun-N-Fun this year, I bought a 5/32" plastic bit (made by Hanson) from Cleaveland Aircraft. I practiced on some scrap Plexiglass first, and it makes very nice, clean holes. When I actually started drilling my tip-up canopy last week, I wanted a 1/8" bit so I could cleco everything together. Instead of ordering one and waiting a week, I went to my local industrial tool supply and asked for a bit to drill Plexiglass. "Sure thing. That will be 81 cents." It was the right diameter, and had the steep angle on the point like the Hanson bit, so I assumed it was the same. It wasn't. I didn't practice with it since the 5/32" bit worked so well, and the first time I tried it was on my canopy. It started OK, but then bound up and CRACK! Three cracks radiated from the hole, but fortunately didn't travel more than 1/4". I stop drilled the cracks with the Hanson bit and will not have to order another canopy (Whew!) I now understand about "zero degree rake angle" for a Plexiglass drill bit. The cutting edge of the bit doesn't "screw" down into the Plexiglass, it "scrapes" the surface away as it makes the hole. Moral of the story- stick with established quality suppliers (Cleaveland, Avery, Brown, etc.) or BE SURE you know what you are buying from your local supplier. P.S. My IO-320 should ship from AeroSport Power today. Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!! Danny Kight Anderson, SC RV-6, tip-up, IO-320, Hartzell (fiddling with the canopy) kightd(at)basf.com EAA 249 VP, YE coordinator, YE field rep. Sonerai IILT (350 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Noise while building
Date: Sep 20, 1999
I found that with the garage door closed, you could hear the riveting noise on the front sidewalk (about 20 ft from garage). You could not hear the riveting noise across the street. My garage is finished, no insulation in the walls, and a steel roll-up door. I only had one complaint from a drunk across the street but that was because my garage door was wide open and I had been closing my wings all day. If you keep your doors close and only rivet during daylight hours you will find you won't have much problems. Another suggestion is to visit your neighbors and talk to them about this before you begin. They may be more patient if they understand what is happening. I don't intend to repeat my mistakes in my last neighborhood. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 svanarts(at)unionsafe.com -----Original Message----- From: John Lawson [mailto:jwlawson(at)hargray.com] Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 6:05 AM Subject: RV-List: Noise while building I haven't done any riveting (yet), so please excuse my crayon-level question...I searched the archives and didn't see anything...how much noise would I generate while building? My house is about eight months old, I have a two-car garage (will probably get to use about 60% of it initially, to maintain domestic tranquility :-) ) that is drywalled. The house next door is about 35-40 feet from the outside wall of my garage; its bedrooms are on the side of their house closest to my garage. I don't have room in the back yard to build a shed, and the restrictive covenants wouldn't allow it anway. We don't have any hangars at either of the airports close by that I could use. My next recourse, if I can't build it in my garage, would be to possibly rent a storage space that was wired for electricity; I think these are close by, but they probably wouldn't be cheap. Since I'm an airport director, I'm rather attuned to noise complaints! Comments are appreciated. Semper Fi John Lawson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <Paul.Besing(at)timetrend.com>
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Test-Please ignore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Cabin Heat Mixer
I am looking for an idea on cabin heat/cooling. My -6A has the two outside air vents at the corners of the instrument panel, and a heat box fed from a muff on the exhaust pipe. Both systems worked very well, a lot of heat from the box and a lot of air from the vents. Problem is (was) the vents did nothing to keep the feet cool in hot weather. My firewall is insulated, but still without any air circulating, it was just plain too hot and stuffy from the toes to the belt. So, I connected the air supply to the heat muff directly to the cabin heat box. Works great .. Lots of air and happy feet. But ... even in California it will get cold, soon. So, does anyone have any great ideas on a heat mixer so that the cabin heat can be controlled by mixing cool air with the heat muff output? Also, don't want to do a major modification in adding new holes to the firewall, or additional push-pull controls into the cabin. There is a "spare" push pull, the oil cooler door, which I found unnecessary (to date). I have had two ideas: Restore the cabin heat muff system to its original configuration. Add something to deflect part of the fresh air coming out of the vents down into the footwell area. Will need to be controllable, and point able. I have sketched some interesting fiberglass parts that would be "in line" with the vents on the dash, behind the dash. Second would be a mixer in the engine compartment. Have a "split" air supply line, one going to the heat muff with a volume control, the other to another "Y" where the heated air joins it. Then to the existing firewall mounted air box. It would just act as the Shutoff. Some concerns might be having the hot air trapped when only cold air is flowing. The normal heat box vents the hot air when the cabin valve is shut. A separate air supply to the heating circuit could be used and then allow the hot air to vent when not in use. This is getting complicated. Any better ideas? Bruce Patton Red 596S ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WesternAir(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: VOR/ILS Ant. Mount on 6A Vert Stab...
Quick question for ya'll......Im looking to find a VOR/LOC/ILS ant. (new or used) that will mount to the top of the VS of a 6A. If you have found one that fits or have found a way to modify an existing ant. please drop me an email. Thanks as always... Kurt, OKC, OK 6A Rudder/VS.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Noise while building
Hiya, Before I started building in my garage here in Sili valley where cheap high priced houses are about eight feet apart, I considered building a box of sheet rock over my compressor. Then, I decided to try it first by working only from 7AM to 9PM with doors closed early and late. No problem with anyone. I asked those either side and they had not even heard anything unusual. Of course, around here nothing much is unusual! I'm only three miles from San Jose Intl. Sound travels readily thru smallest openings so close them. It travels with greatest difficulty thru heavy solids - especially those that can also absorb vibration. Lead and rubber maybe or concrete, heavy wood, even sheetrock. The smaller the box arond the compressor, the less material needed. So, why box the tank? None of this tried so your mileage ..... Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a at SCK - Baffling Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy
> >Hello Listers > >Started cutting the tip up canopy today. Everyone said it was easy, and it >is. Cutting is not the problem. The initial dimensions in Vans instructions >are "Make an initial cut of approximately 65" total length." This defiantly >not long enough. Hi Cash, You've discovered the undocumented secret - nibble away at it. Check the archives and especially Jim Cone's article and others comments. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a at SCK - Baffling Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled
Platenuts
Date: Sep 20, 1999
You are not the only one....... Dick White, RV-8QB still messing with the fuse Newport,OR ----- Original Message ----- From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 7:59 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtip Attachment with Platenuts/Source for Pre-dimpled Platenuts > > Bob. GaryZ & Gary S, Pat, Gar ,and Ed thanks for all the good tips! First > fiberglss wingtip almost fitted -:) Your inputs will be good for the > archives since the first task builders FEAR FACTOR has alomst disapeared. > I am the only one to take two days for a new task and about three hours > redoing the same task again? > > Do not archieve. > > Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks while waiting for finishing kit||| > Lakewood/ Denver, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Temporary paint
Date: Sep 20, 1999
It is a given that I will fly my -6 before it is painted, but I'm looking for suggestions on whether and how to apply some temporary paint or protective coating in the interim. I'd like to cover some filler (epoxy w/microballoons) in dings and on and around the fiberglass parts along with some surface scratches both for aesthetics and protection. Seems like it would feel better to have some sort of coating on the those areas even if it has to be removed for the final paint. What I would like to avoid is the need for a paint booth and a lot of time in surface prep, i.e. wipe it down, mask it, drag it outside and spray. Some of the possibilities I see are: 1. Clean airframe to bare metal, fly it ugly and wash regularly. By far the cheapest alternative. 2. Spot prime fiberglass & areas of concern with white or light gray 3. Paint whole aircraft in military matt gray, buy a jumpsuit and swagger a lot 4. Paint (send out) what I can for final color (tail, tips, fairings) and leave the rest bare. Base color will be a dark navy blue FWIW re matching and fading problems. Has anyone had good or bad experience with this? Other suggestions? If I use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will adhere adequately for the short term yet be easy to remove? Regards, Greg Young - DWH (Houston) RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <Paul.Besing(at)timetrend.com>
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Fw: Mail System Error - Returned Mail
Prime it. No matter what, you are going to have alot of cleaning and re-filling, sanding to do..many crevices and such where airborne critters died an untimely death. I have spoken with builders who waited to paint and they said that they would paint it first if they were to do it again..too much hassle after it is flying, IMHO. Once it is flying, I don't want to have to take it down and apart again to paint it..I wanna fly it! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 11:26 PM Subject: RV-List: Temporary paint > >It is a given that I will fly my -6 before it is painted, but I'm looking >for suggestions on whether and how to apply some temporary paint or >protective coating in the interim. I'd like to cover some filler (epoxy >w/microballoons) in dings and on and around the fiberglass parts along with >some surface scratches both for aesthetics and protection. Seems like it >would feel better to have some sort of coating on the those areas even if it >has to be removed for the final paint. What I would like to avoid is the >need for a paint booth and a lot of time in surface prep, i.e. wipe it down, >mask it, drag it outside and spray. Some of the possibilities I see are: > >1. Clean airframe to bare metal, fly it ugly and wash regularly. By far the >cheapest alternative. >2. Spot prime fiberglass & areas of concern with white or light gray >3. Paint whole aircraft in military matt gray, buy a jumpsuit and swagger a >lot >4. Paint (send out) what I can for final color (tail, tips, fairings) and >leave the rest bare. Base color will be a dark navy blue FWIW re matching >and fading problems. > >Has anyone had good or bad experience with this? Other suggestions? If I >use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will adhere adequately >for the short term yet be easy to remove? > > >Regards, >Greg Young - DWH (Houston) >RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit > >"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark >Twain (1835-1910) > > Paul Besing Account Executive Time Trend Computers, Inc. http://www.timetrend.com (888) 646-8806 Ext 401 (480) 785-8308 FAX (877) 790-6746 Pager "The Future of Business Productivity" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Nutplates
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Sorry list, I must have been told three times in the last six months where to get certain nutplates. But, I didn't need them so I didn't write it down. Now I need a couple of 45 deg. 6-32 nutplates to fasten my tail-strobe to my rudder and I cannot find them in my catalogs. The archives were no help at all. Does anyone know where I can find these things ? Thanks in advance. Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Subject: Re: Fw: Mail System Error - Returned Mail
Not to mention oxidation oil residue dirt lost flying and many other things paint it first and touch it up Pat N598EP RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Temporary paint
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Snip>> If I use a temporary paint - what type/brand to use that will adhere adequately for the short term yet be easy to remove? Regards, Greg Young - DWH (Houston)<From: "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: left elevator bottom stiffner location
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Greetings listers I have a question regarding drwg 4PP. I am locating stiffners on the left elevator and DWG 4PP shows a "long" stiffner located at 5 1/8" from the edge of the inboard skin(bottom side). On the drawing this is depicted outboard of where the trim cable slot will be on the upper side of the elevator. 5 1/8" in from the edge puts the bottom stiffner (depicted as phantom lines on the drawing) right in line with the trim cable slot. Will this cause interference with the trim cable? Is the dimension wrong? When in doubt I always refer to the drawings (cases of manual/cookbook confusion) and this is the first occasion I've not gotten the "warm fuzzy" from the drawings. Any and all help appreciated. thanks in advance Rob Baxter Sarnia RV-8 80970 elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Subject: Re: Nutplates
Date: Sep 20, 1999
Larry; There's a fastener outfit in Troutdale, OR that Aircraft Spruce buys many of their specialty stuff from. I'll try to get the name and address and pass it along. If anyone on the list knows, please jump in! >Sorry list, > I must have been told three times in the last six months where to >get certain nutplates. But, I didn't need them so I didn't write it >down. Now I need a couple of 45 deg. 6-32 nutplates to fasten my >tail-strobe to my rudder and I cannot find them in my catalogs. The >archives were no help at all. Does anyone know where I can find these >things ? Thanks in advance. > >Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 1999
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Avionics dealers
My Collins transponder that I purchased used started kicking thje breaker and I went shopping for a King KT-76A. I thought I would show


September 12, 1999 - September 20, 1999

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