RV-Archive.digest.vol-ha

September 27, 1999 - October 03, 1999



Subject: Engine Monitors
Date: Sep 27, 1999
It's time for me to make the final decision between Vision Microsystems and Rocky Mountain Instruments for engine monitoring duties. I can't seem to find a good site that lists the features of the Vision Microsystems unit. Can anybody help with a link? Does the Vision system have presentable warnings like the Rocky Mountain for important things like low oil pressure? Are they audible as well as visible? I know one of the best advantages is the full reading of the EGT's but are there any others? Thank-you in advance, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Audio Panel 28v
> >Has anyone used an audio panel out of a Cessna 172, which is a 28v >unit[24v], in an RV. If so, how does one convert to run on 12v ? Electric >Bob? Many modern solid state products are multi-voltage. Do you have the manual for the system? It will indicate some wiring chages for the two different voltages if the system is capable of using either. It's possible to build a 14-28V upconverter to run small 28v appliances in a 14v airplane. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Monitors
Norman, One of the sheets on VMI that I picked up at OSH has the following bullets: *Exclusive Graphic Analog and Digital Display Format *Full Color Range Marks *VISUAL AND AUDIBLE WARNING ANNUNCIATORS *Instrument Lighting is Standard Equipment *High Reliablity Integrated Electornics *High Accuracy and High Reliability Transducers *Complete Pre-Wired Harness *Ease of Installation *Exceptional Value These are all expounded upon but to answer your question, YES you can have visual and audible parameter monitoring. Can't find a website on any of there printed materials.....remarkable! Hope this helps....AL >Can anybody help with a link? >Does the Vision system have presentable warnings like the Rocky Mountain for >important things like low oil pressure? Are they audible as well as visible? >I know one of the best advantages is the full reading of the EGT's but are >there any others? >Norman Hunger ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: tip up questions
Louis, >a few questions about the construction of the tip-up canopy... >1) how much of a gap should i use at the butt joint between the forward skin >and the canopy skin/glareshield? I went for a fairly close gap and opened it up as needed to avoid interference when opening and closing. AFter building my tip up, I had a couple of ideas on what I might have done differently. I wondered about riveting a flange of .020 between the forward skin and the sub panel. This would hide the notches on the sub panel and give a smooth surface for the front canopy skin to slide on. This extra piece would be easy to paint to fill the gap if the canopy front skin had to be trimmed back a little more than desired to achieve proper operation. Don't forget to cleco from the bottom so when you open the canopy you won't distress the skin against the clecos:( >2) should i have the canopy side skins butt against the longeron (as the >plans show), or should i overlap? in either case, what spacing should be >used, and how can i prevent scratching the paint on the longerons or >fuselage? I elected to extend the side skins for a couple of reasons. I liked the lines of the canopy better, having the side skins match up with the edge of the fuselage forward and rear skins. I also felt that, for cold country, it would be easier to seal and the overlap would hide any weather stripping. Lastly, I felt that I could cover any mis-alignment in case the side skirts didn't line up perfectly with the fuselage side skins. With overlapping skins, you can bend the overlap in or out to achieve a nicer fit. To keep from scratching the paint on the fuselage, I lined the inside of the skirts with .010" UHMW. After 4 years and 470 hours, I had barely noticable rub marks on the paint. And, of course, when the canopy is down, this area is covered. With the overlap, you will have to be concerned with the forward corner of the front canopy skin catching on the flat deck riveted to the longerons at the sub panel area. I made a little guide with a 45 degree bevel that was sloted and mounted it to the deck with a screw into a nut plate. I lined the surface of the 45 degree angle with UHMW. With this method, you can have a tight fit along the side of the fuselage. The angle will guide the front canopy skin so it clears the top of the longeron and you won't have to worry about bending the forward canopy skin. BTW, I ordered a roll of .032 from KC Airparts so I had enough material to make wider canopy side skins and front canopy skin. I also used some to make the front fuselage skin because it seemed that the kit supplied skin might be a bit small. In other words, on the front skin, I worried about slight shifting as the skin was being drilled on and the possibility that when drilled on at the longerons, there might be a "cut corner" similar to what happens with the elevator skins on many RVs. Perhaps these skins are large enough on later kits. >thanks, >louis cappucci >rv-6a qb, tip-up >mamaroneck, ny Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Air cleco tool
> I have spent over 3000 on tools already, what is another >100? Although, I would like to get one of Avery's pneumatic cleco >pliers. My left hand is getting bigger than my right from all the >squeezing I am doing. >Regards, >Tom Velvick Tom (and other listers). Have I got a deal for you. I have a "Speedkleek", air cleco tools for sale. I bought it years ago at the Boone, Iowa RV fly-in after seeing a demonstration done by the owner of the company. They aren't cheap but are vastly superior to the ones that Avery and others sell, IMO. The cheaper tools use a button activated by the tip of your index finger. The "Speedkleek" is a machined aluminum, cylindrical tool with the button in the center. This means that you can rotate the tool and used any finger or even the palm of your hand to activate the tool. You can use the "Speedkleek" up, down or sideways because of where the button is located, something you can't do with the cheaper tools. I have 2 friends who own the cheaper models, "Gillette Charlie" and Capt. Bill, the guy I helped with a Glastar project. Both tools have spent all their time in the drawer. I found the tip of my index finger became sore after not too long of a period of use. I prefer to use regular cleco pliers to these tools. When doing both wings, it is very fast to remove clecos. I put a sheet on the floor and just let the clecos fall, gathered up the sheet and poured the clecos into a bucket. I think the guy selling them said it was twice as fast inserting the clecos and 8 times faster removing them. Anyway, I paid just over $200 for the tool. I put a swivel air connection on it, by the way which enhances it's usefulness. I'll sell it for $175.00 and pay the freight. Contact me offlist at: bskinner(at)vcn.com Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: sheetmetal brake?
Date: Sep 27, 1999
> > Does anyone know where i can find plans/drawings on the net to build a > small brake press for bending sheetmetal? thanks for any info. > Regards, Mike Mike: I have plans for a brake designed by Ken Hoshowski. I can send them to you in DXF or DWG format. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC -6 tail http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: Vertical location of VS on RV-8?
Randy, I just mounted the VS this weekend. I don't have the drawing in front of me but I remember the dimension because it was so hard to find. Look on the drawing for the VS installation and when you turn the drawing 90 degrees clockwise and you can read the drawing look in the lower right area where you see the side view of the vs/hs installation. In amongst all the drawing and notes is the dimension you are looking for. It says 8 1/8 inches from the top of the lower hinge mount to the top of the F-812B which is the angle that mounts the VS spar to the top longerons at the aft end. Something else I noted over the weekend and I have to call Van's about is the F812B material callout. The drawing calls out for one size material and the parts pull sheet calls out for another. The drawing shows a piece of aluminmum 1 1/4 by 3/4 made from an AA6-125x1x1 1/4 and the parts sheet calls out 3/4 by 3/4. And they send you a 3/4 by 3/4 piece of aluminum. There is no other 1x1 1/4 material in the aircraft so there is no materail for this part. When I find out more I will let you all know. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB In a message dated Sun, 26 Sep 1999 4:00:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Randy Lervold" writes: > > How do you know precisely where to locate the VS when mounting? There is > nothing specified in the manual, and no real vertical dimensions I can see > on dwg 27. What am I missing? > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, #80500, mounting emp, starting to look like a plane, too bad I have to > take it back off! > www.pacifier.com/~randyl > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: RV-8 F-812B
To all you RV-8 builders, I found a mistake on the packing sheet for the F-812B call out. Drawing 27 shows the F-812B to be made from an AA6-125x1x1 1/4 piece. The packing list callout is for a 3/4x3/4 piece. I called Van's and they said that there is (was) a mistake in the callout. They are sending me the correct piece to make the F-812B. So for all you who have not mounted the Vertical Stab yet, get a hold of Van's and they will send you the correct material. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB finishing up the empenage installation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Fwd: RV-8 F-812B
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com Full-name: MRobert569 Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:02:13 EDT Subject: RV-8 F-812B To all you RV-8 builders, I found a mistake on the packing sheet for the F-812B call out. Drawing 27 shows the F-812B to be made from an AA6-125x1x1 1/4 piece. The packing list callout is for a 3/4x3/4 piece. I called Van's and they said that there is (was) a mistake in the callout. They are sending me the correct piece to make the F-812B. So for all you who have not mounted the Vertical Stab yet, get a hold of Van's and they will send you the correct material. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB finishing up the empenage installation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: Engine Monitors
Norman, Vision Microsystems does not yet have a web site, although when I talked to them last week they said they were working on one. I decided to install the vision micrsystems in my -8. I like the color screen with both an anaolog as well as digital readout. And with the optional EC-100 checklist it has a visual and audio callout for any system that exceeds parameters. Down side is that it costs a bunch more than the RMI micromonitor. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB installing empenage In a message dated Mon, 27 Sep 1999 12:36:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Norman Hunger" writes: > > It's time for me to make the final decision between Vision Microsystems and > Rocky Mountain Instruments for engine monitoring duties. I can't seem to > find a good site that lists the features of the Vision Microsystems unit. > Can anybody help with a link? > Does the Vision system have presentable warnings like the Rocky Mountain for > important things like low oil pressure? Are they audible as well as visible? > I know one of the best advantages is the full reading of the EGT's but are > there any others? > > Thank-you in advance, > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: sheetmetal brake?
TED, I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN YOUR PLANS FOR A SHEETMETAL BRAKE. IF POSSIBLE COULD YOU EMAIL TO ME. BILL BRUTON RV-8 EMPENNAGE TACOMA, WA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: RV4 canopy side skirts
I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So how do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece of junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel or??). Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: tip up questions
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Bob, I'm going to try your idea about a .020 flange. I think it will work just fine. I don't like the way those notches on the sub panel look and this could make the whole thing look quite presentable. Is this a great list or what? One of these days I'll fly out to Wyoming and show you how it came out. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A canopy details -----Original Message----- I went for a fairly close gap and opened it up as needed to avoid interference when opening and closing. AFter building my tip up, I had a couple of ideas on what I might have done differently. I wondered about riveting a flange of .020 between the forward skin and the sub panel. This would hide the notches on the sub panel and give a smooth surface for the front canopy skin to slide on. This extra piece would be easy to paint to fill the gap if the canopy front skin had to be trimmed back a little more than desired to achieve proper operation. Don't forget to cleco from the bottom so when you open the canopy you won't distress the skin against the clecos:( ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 200HP in RV6A
I am planing on putting a 200 HP Lycoming engine in my RV6A. I presently have a 180. Does anyone know what I will have to change about the cowling and engine mount, and the location of the battery? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Also anyone that has a 200 HP Lycoming for sale let me know. You may respond off list at accuracy(at)earthlink.net. Thanks Bob Baggett RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: nav-aid problem
I have been using my Nav-aid autopilot for two years now, some 500+ hrs. with no problems. Lately it will just quit steering when in tracking mode and and not respond in wing leveler mode. Cycling the switches sometimes works. Before I start debugging I wondered if anyone else had similar problems. Is there a compound perhaps I could put in the plugs to eliminate corrosion? kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com>
Subject: Fine tuning the Navaid
Date: Sep 27, 1999
I am working on fine tuning my newly installed Navaid and am having a problem with a jittering system. The installation manual mentions that this might occur on the ground but that, in the air, aerodynamic forces will dampen the system. Not in my case. I think I have tried all of the suggested adjustments of gain at the servo and at the panel instrument and still it persists. What I am observing is an overrun of the servo null point immediately after the first input and the servo then reverses its action to go into a cycle of small, rapid, to and fro actions. As Navaid explains, this is caused by the inertia of the aileron system and I presume with an arrangement as light as my RV6 there is insufficient friction to kill the natural frequency. A light touch on the column kills the oscillation but I would prefer to adjust the setup away from its natural frequency. This must be a problem encountered and solved by many before me so I am seeking advise from the list. Noel Drew RV6 Durban South Africa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
I posted my solution before under another post title so.....I did exactly as you did with the canopy mount. I had a issue with the side skirts just reaching the bottom of the plexi ( my turn-over structure was of a older design & mounted higher so my plexi had to be mounted higher ( 1 inch) which ment I ran out of top skirt...) No problem. I avoided the bent up metal you are faced with by using a credid card as a squeegee and forming a radius fillet along the entire skirt-to-canopy junction usin Stits Poly Fiber epoxy filler. THIS BLUE STUFF IS GREAT> light & easily sandable & sticks to anything. Multiple layers of electrical tape to form a line in the plexi and goop the Poly fiber in, pull off tape to reveal the clean line, let cure for 24 hrs, retape line with electrical & sand. I used pipe insulation foam as a sanding block. Perfect radius for sanding paper. A couple of these processes repeated & my canopy looks fantastic....BTW the credid card is forced into the crevis and bent so that when drawn across the void the top edge of the credit card squeegee rides the plexi & the bottom edge of the card rides the aluimun skirt. The void inbetween is filled with the Poly Fiber with a nice arced radius fillet. a smooth pull of the credit card along this junction yields a very nice radius fillet. Do this a few times with the tape trick I mentioned-it will take 3,4 or 5 draws of this process and uses about a cup of filler-not bad when the combined length of the fillet is the complete circumference of the rv-4 canopy. Asked questions will be answered. Good luck. willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil on 09/27/99 02:34:44 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy side skirts I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So how do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece of junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel or??). Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: sheetmetal brake?
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Tedd, thanks for the acknowledgement but I cannot take credit for designing the Brake. I got the plans from a friend who I think said they may have come from Zenith?? This break is up to 4 feet long and is made from 4" x 4" x1/4 inch steel angle. It is pretty substantial and works great. Ken > >I have plans for a brake designed by Ken Hoshowski. I can send them to you >in DXF or DWG format. > >Tedd McHenry >Surrey, BC >-6 tail >http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Air cleco tool
Listers, The "Speedkleek" tool is sold. Thanks, Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: sheetmetal brake?
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Anyone looking for the brake I have plans for, please email me directly. Thanks, Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC -6 tail http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Mike, Sounds like its time for you to mix up some epoxy resin and lay up some fiberglass. I don't know the -4, but on my -6 rear skirt, there was no way I was going to get a piece of aluminum to make that compound curve. It took me 5 hrs to make a base to fill the gap, cut cloth and lay it up. Another five hours of filling and sanding. Now its done, looks great, fits like it was mold to the fuselage and bubble, and took all of 10 hrs. If you are not familar with the materials and want to try it, contact me off-list & I will give some instructions. Rick Caldwell RV-6 Aluminum but composites was one of my past life. >From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy side skirts >Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:34:44 -0700 > > > I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and >drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an >easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily >screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So how >do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I >tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece of >junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the >use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that >there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to >some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel or??). > >Mike Wills >RV-4 canopy >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: Wgt and Balance
In a message dated 9/27/99 6:02:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wd_thomas(at)ctconnect.com writes: << Anyone out there who has flown a -6A with an O-360, a full panel, and a metal fixed pitch prop: did the weight and balance come out OK or did you have to move the battery into the baggage compartment (or do some other trick to balance properly)? >> My 6A has an O-360-A1A with c/s prop and a very full panel. W&B couldn't be more perfect even with 100# of baggage in the back. Your battery is fine right where Van put it. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Mike: As we speak I am attaching the rear canopy skirts to my RV-4. I too have the canopy attached to the frame with #6 CS screws into tapped holes drilled in the tubular frame (6" spacing). Tip: drill all final holes in the canopy to 1/4 diameter. Make a plastic bushing by cutting little 1/8" chunks of plastic tubing that has a OD or 1/4" and an ID of 1/8". You will not have to countersink the canopy then. The dimple from the canopy skirt (or the #6 CS screw) will nicely squeeze into the plastic bushing and fit perfect plus allow for canopy expansion and contraction. Use the pop rivets Van calls out for the final skirt/canopy/frame attachment when everything is all done. Get Avery's RV-4 canopy flanging tool. It works perfect. At $30 it will save a ton of grief. My flanges bent perfectly. Since it sounds like your skirts have been trashed, you may have to order replacements. Today I am just about to start trimming the rear portion of the skirts which may be another story. If you have any other questions, please contact me off list. Doug > I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and > drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an > easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily > screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So how > do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I > tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece of > junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the > use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that > there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to > some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel or??). > > Mike Wills > RV-4 canopy > willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
Hi Mike, Avery makes a tool for about $30 designed just for making the radius bends on the RV4 canopy skirts. It worked quite nicely for me. I was lucky enough to borrow a tool from a fellow RV4 builder in the area. I don't want Bob Avery to starve (he's a good guy), but perhaps someone on the list might offer to loan you their tool. Tom Brown RV4Brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net>
Subject: Naviad testing
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I'm having some trouble with my new Navaid installation. It seems to "hunt" unacceptably. With the manual trim set, I can engage the autopilot and it does a smooth pull to the right and then 2-3 quick "jabs" to the left and repeats this sequence to maintain level flight. It's enough to make one ill after awhile. Adjusting the sensitivity pot does nothing until the very bottom where it stops working. Adjusting the Navaid trim just re-trims the roll angle somewhat and then it starts hunting again. I called Navaid and they said they've never heard of this before and are sending me a new head to try. Has anyone experienced this before? Thanks. Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96 ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: c-frame tool
Bill rather than a hand squeezer, we added a pneumatic cylinder and a foot switch. maked dimpling those large skins and folded skin a heck of a lot easier.... Other than that, we used the 'thular' (that look's about right) method of measurement for the dim's on the c frame. It's really not critical as long as you do not make it too small. Gert Bill Von Dane wrote: > > > Hello all... > > I have browsed the archives to learn all I can on the c-frame tools and now > looking for plans to build my own... Any plans available out there? I > intend to include a "hand squeeze" option on mine to give me the feel of a > hand squeezer... > > Please contact me off-list if you like... > > Thanks in advance... > > -Bill Von Dane > RV-8A - h-stab... > bvondane(at)atmel.com > http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au>
Subject: Re: Wgt and Balance
Date: Sep 28, 1999
My RV6A has a 0-360 and CS prop and full panel.Cof G came out perfect..Can,t be loaded to get out of CG limits with baggage weight limited to 45kg.Left battery in the original position Regards Karl RV6A VH-KHA 17Hours KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU -----Original Message----- From: Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)ctconnect.com> Date: Monday, 27 September 1999 22:50 Subject: RV-List: Wgt and Balance > >Anyone out there who has flown a -6A with an O-360, a full panel, and a >metal fixed pitch prop: did the weight and balance come out OK or did >you have to move the battery into the baggage compartment (or do some >other trick to balance properly)? > >Bill Thomas >-6A Finish Kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV4 canopy side skirts
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Either Cleveland or Avery sold a tool specifically for this.... I only wish I had my catalog here with me! It was similar to the tool we use to put a bend in the leading edge of the top and bottom main skins. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 svanarts(at)unionsafe.com -----Original Message----- From: Mike Wills [mailto:willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil] Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 11:35 AM Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy side skirts I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So how do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece of junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel or??). Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical location of VS on RV-8?
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Something else I noted over the weekend and I have to call Van's about is the F812B material callout. The drawing calls out for one size material and the parts pull sheet calls out for another. The drawing shows a piece of aluminmum 1 1/4 by 3/4 made from an AA6-125x1x1 1/4 and the parts sheet calls out 3/4 by 3/4. And they send you a 3/4 by 3/4 piece of aluminum. There is no other 1x1 1/4 material in the aircraft so there is no materail for this part. When I find out more I will let you all know. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A QB Mike, I can save you the phone call. The 3/4x3/4 was the OLD dimension that did not allow this piece to become the rear elevator stop. They increased the horizontal dimension up to 1 1/4" to extend the 812B forward to function as an elevator stop. This was written up in the RVator, Fifth Issue '98, page 5. As to the material, I made mine from a piece of 1.5 x 2.0, a little extra cutting with the band saw. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500 www.pacifier.com/~randyl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: "Duane J. Achenbach" <vicki(at)ctaz.com>
Subject: Conical Eng Mount
Hi all I'm still in need of a RV-3 engine mount (Conical) for a 290G. I can order new but the wait is about 1-2 months. If I can save a few dollors I'd like to. Any ideas? Still doing repairs. Jerry Achenbach N5287U 520-680-6902 e-mail vicki(at)ctaz.com Thanks for the help ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: Fine tuning the Navaid
From: "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com>
writes: > >I am working on fine tuning my newly installed Navaid and am having a >problem with a jittering system. The installation manual mentions >that this >might occur on the ground but that, in the air, aerodynamic forces >after > > Noel, Usually this can be eliminated by setting your manual aileron trim over to one side or the other (try both). This gives just enough opposing force to dampen out the oscillations. If this doesn't work, you may have one of those units where the dead band is just a little too narrrow. The factory can tweak it a little wider for you. The super delightful friction free ailerons on the RV's work a little against us here. Regards, Bill RV-4 N66WD RV-8 Building ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: "Duane J. Achenbach" <vicki(at)ctaz.com>
Subject: Conical Eng Mount
Hi RV er's I'm still looking for a RV-3 conical engine mount. Thought someone might have one collecting dust. The engine is a 290G. Thanks For the help. Jerry Achenbach RV-3A N5287U 520-680-6902 e-mail vicki(at)ctaz.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Check Six!
Listers, Those of you that received our new newsletter, Check Six!, I would like to get some feedback, if you would. I want to make this newsletter the best possible, and oftentimes your feedback will help to make it the best. Also, if you have any articles, ideas, builder pictures or progress, things to sell, things wanted to buy, or anything that you would want to see in the next issue of Check Six!, please send it to me at F1Rocket(at)aol.com. If you own a business that is aviation related and would like to advertise in Check Six!, it is only $75 per year. Send me your advertisement and I will add it to the newsletter. The more participation we get with this the better the newsletter is going to be for everyone! Keep on building, and Check Six! Scott Team Rocket, inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: RV stuff
RVers, As our business grows, it becomes apparent that many of the things that we are developing for the Rocket can be used for the RVs as "aftermarket" type parts. Therefore, we have been adding these things to our catalog as quickly as we can. We have already had alot of RV customers, and all seem to be very happy with the quality product that we provide. Please take a look at our catalog on our wesite at www.matronics.com/rocket and look for items that are also RV related. There are many. The items that have been the most popular are our RV6 intersection fairings and gearleg fairings. The gearleg fairings will fit all RVs, but the intersection fairings will only fit the RV6 at this time. We are developing molds for the RV6A, RV8, and RV4, however we are not completed yet. Sometimes, it takes awhile to get very good molds in order to have excellent parts. So please take the time to visit us. It does take a bit to download the catalog, as it is getting quite large. It uses Adobe acrobat to view. Thanks, Scott Team Rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Re: nav-aid problem
Dow Corning 4 compound is a dielectric and used on electrical connectors to provide a moisture seal and lubricant for the connector. Should be available through cataloges such as Aircraft Spruce and others. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 27, 1999
Subject: Super-Fil Curing
A batch of Super Fil I mixed yesterday isn't curing well. After 30 hours or so, it is firm, but still won't pass the thumbnail test I've even put in the oven at 150 degrees for a few hours, hoping to get those molecules to do their thing. Another batch I made yesterday came out just fine. I figure I missed the ratio on the bad batch, didn't mix it well enough, or (most likely) didn't get the white component well mixed before I put it with the blue stuff. Any suggestions other than waiting it out or scraping it off? Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: smooth is good!
Today I had the prop dynamically balanced on 399SB. You can see details and photos about this procedure at this link:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/airport5.html The improvement was rather drastic for this particular aircraft. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 23.0 hrs) "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jake L. Wegman" <jake(at)ultrex.com>
Subject: Contact Information
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Hello fellow RV enthusiasts, I am visiting the Tangipahoa area in Hammond, LA this week. During a checkout ride in the local 172 at Cloud Chasers, I inquired as to anyone on the field who is constructing, or who has completed any homebuilts, but more to the point, an RV -the instructor, Roger, stated that there were several being built as well as a flying '6a... I would very much appreciate any contact information with these distinguished individuals whom may enlighten me as to why I've started my '8a... Hell, I don't really need to be enlightened, but it's worth the effort. So, if there's anyone in the area inclined to show off his/her project, please contact me - I'll be loafing around (probably at the airport) after 5pm Tuesday through Thursday evenings - depending how much cash is left in the flying reserve - they don't accept Master Card for aircraft rentals... chuckle ...as a side note, I would like to somehow show my appreciation to all the individuals here who have demonstrated why this community is such a valuable presence in this wasteland of the internet, particularly when tragedy has befallen one of it's participants... (I was leafing through one of the last years Sport Aviation's where in the back they have a few pages dedicated to showing a brief summary of ones' flying project, with a picture, when I came upon Von's RV8 - it still brings tears to my eyes - and I've never met the gentleman) So my hat is off to you guys - thank you. Jake Wegman Jake(at)ultrex.com (I'm at the Holiday Inn in Hammond,LA through Friday the 1st) checking email daily - I can also be contacted at the Tangipahoa Board of Realtors through the end of the week ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: speaking of batteries
Date: Sep 28, 1999
RV6A Battery Box Location Question > I believe you will find the "offset" of the battery is to permit you to run > throttle and mixture control cables from the center post of the instrument > panel past the battery and thru the firewall in the most direct route to > the appropriate position on the carburator slung under the engine without > bends in them. What if one was planing on mounting the throttle/mixture controls on a piece of angle attached to the bottom of the panel itself? Would this cleaner lookimg installation still need the battery box moved over or would the cables now run above the battery box? Also, are there any more ramifications if one was planing to use the Airflow Performance fuel injection system? Regards, Norman Hunger Delta, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Dave Hirschman <dhirsch(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 09/27/99
Unsubscribe, please. >* > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 09/27/99: 55 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > >___________________________________________________________________________ _____ >From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Level Float (sinks) > > >Bruce, > >Thanks for the tip. > > >WARNING: The remainder of this message has not been transferred. Click on the server retrieve icon above and check mail again to get the whole thing. If the server retrieve icon is not showing, then this message is no longer on your mail server. >The estimated size of this message is 63621 bytes. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:14:18.-0400(at)matronics.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: smooth is good!
Hey Shirley, has nothing to do with being a girl. Van's plans affect everyone this way. I know a truly brilliant engineer/archetech that had a QB on order. He spent an hour going through my plans and cancelled his order. Just couldn't deal with Van's plans. Those of us that really have the desire learn to speak his language. And that is: Just cause it says so on the plans don't mean it will work on yours. Treat all dimensions on the plans as general guidelines. I have scrapped too many parts from drilling holes where Van told me too. I finally learned to put as many parts together as they will go and visualize where it makes sense to put that hole. Stay with it, your'e almost there. Eric >>> - a girl can go crazy trying to read plans!<< ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
"Eric.J.Henson at work"
Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: You might be a high tech Redneck if...]
YOU MIGHT BE A HIGH-TECH REDNECK IF... Your e-mail address ends in "@over.yonder.com." You connect to the World Wide Web via a "Down Home Page." If the bumper sticker on your truck says, "My other computer is a laptop." Your laptop has a sticker that says, "Protected by Smith and Wesson." You've ever doubled the value of your truck by installing a cellular phone. Your computer is worth more than all your cars combined. You wire your network with jumper cables. Your wife said either she or the computer had to go, and you still don't miss her. You've ever used a CD-ROM as a coaster to set your drink on. You ever refer to your computer as "Ole Bessy." Three Words: Daisy Duke Screen saver You start all your e-mails with the words, "Howdy y'all." Your spell checker knows words like, "Y'all", "Yonder", and "Reckon." Your cars sit in the yard because your garage is full of dead CPUs, printers, modems and monitors. Your belt buckle is made from a dead 3.5" hard drive. You ever felt you had to move your computer desk so it didn't block the velvet picture of Elvis. Yer mouse keeps knocking over yer spittoon. Smith & Wesson...the original point N click interface. When you're friends comment on your "nice boots" and you say, "Yea, thanks. Its my spiffy, new Phoenix BIOS." When your wife catches you again with your "Farm Animals of the Orient" CD-ROM. When you order your new pick-up truck with a gun rack and PCMCIA sockets. Your PC Games collection consists of nothing but Bass Fishing tournament games. You only buy from GateWay, 'cause the cow-colored boxes are a hoot. ----------------- End Forwarded Message ----------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Subject: Oswego, NY RV Forum pictures
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I visited the Oswego, NY RV Forum on 9.25.99. A lot of great RV's on display plus great technical sessions. Here's my photos of the forum. I didn't caption any of the photos but if you know who belongs to which plane, I'll be happy to add a caption. http://www.rv6a.net Craig Paulson rv6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: speaking of batteries
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >RV6A Battery Box Location Question > >> I believe you will find the "offset" of the battery is to permit you to >run >> throttle and mixture control cables from the center post of the instrument >> panel past the battery and thru the firewall in the most direct route to >> the appropriate position on the carburator slung under the engine without >> bends in them. > >What if one was planing on mounting the throttle/mixture controls on a piece >of angle attached to the bottom of the panel itself? Would this cleaner >lookimg installation still need the battery box moved over or would the >cables now run above the battery box? >Also, are there any more ramifications if one was planing to use the Airflow >Performance fuel injection system? > > Norman, IMHO you still need to go beside the battery box. The problem is that the control bracket that will be attached to the carb will be very close to the firewall and very low. If you come in higher it will require sharp bends in your control cables. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP 90 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-6/A fuel valve location
Does anyone have alternate locations for the fuel valve? I've eliminated the console for the sake of leg room and I would like to mount the fuel valve and fuel level guage together and tilt them aft. I'm using a dual fuel level guage, so the mounting plate does not have to be large. Chris Browne -6A finish Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Super-Fil Curing
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Superfill cures pretty quickly..if it has not cured in 30 hours, I don't think it will...If it is too soft to sand, I would go ahead and scrape it off. I have used superfill for many things, and have not been that accurate on mixing. I just eyeball a 2-1 ratio, and it cures in about 8 hours. In Arizona, anyway, everything cures fast here. You can have a wet swimsuit that you hang on the shower and 20 minutes later it is dry. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 9:23 AM Subject: RV-List: Super-Fil Curing > >A batch of Super Fil I mixed yesterday isn't curing well. After 30 hours or >so, it is firm, but still won't pass the thumbnail test I've even put in the >oven at 150 degrees for a few hours, hoping to get those molecules to do >their thing. > >Another batch I made yesterday came out just fine. I figure I missed the >ratio on the bad batch, didn't mix it well enough, or (most likely) didn't >get the white component well mixed before I put it with the blue stuff. > >Any suggestions other than waiting it out or scraping it off? > >Kyle Boatright > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: RV4 canopy side skirts
>I have the canopy temporarily screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to >fit the side skirts. So how do you do a good job of bending the flange that >laps over the plexi? I tried the form block method described in the manual and >now have a piece of junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably >salvage it with the use of filler before painting ...... This may be one of the more time consuming and frustrating parts of the build. I wanted a smoother curve from the side skirt to the glass than on most -4s I had seen. Many seemed to have a sharp angle, looking like it was worked with a hand seamer. I had my side skirts lined up and then began to work the curve with a short length of 1" wooden dowel and my fingers. And work and work. I may have gently used a body hammer in the tough parts; I can't remember. As I recall it took a while to get it the way I wanted it but I think it came out really looking good: nice smooth transition curve from the curve of the side skirt into the curve of the glass. The Avery tool wasn't around then. It also turned out that the rear of the skirts didn't match as well as I wanted, so I cut the ends and made a new 'filler' section and riveted it into place at the final fitting. Again, I think it looks good. I would suggest NOT using filler as the canopy skirts are visible from the inside of the airplane and any dents are going to show. Get new ones if they area really chewed up. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeeJaa1(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: tip up canopy RV-6
Just beginning my canopy and for some reason it's driving me nuts. Is there any builder within a 100 mile radius of northern New Jersey that would let me look at his canopy for some reference. Thanks, GeeJaa(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Thanks all for the input on engine monitors. I have decided to go with Rocky Mountain. The only drawback I feel I am conceding to is the lack of all four EGT's. The plus is the huge savings on cost. The biggest reason that I am buying a digital processor is for the built in presetable alarms. I consider this a massive advantage to single pilot flying. Nice to know that a computer is scanning my oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, ect, ect, more frequently than I possibly could. Vision Microsystems is the prettiest display but I'm not going to let that be the deciding factor for me. Their monitor will flash the display of any value that exceeds a pre set parameter but it won't give you the tone in your headset until you buy their optional EC100 display as well. This is factored into the price I list below as I consider an audible warning a must have feature. Grand Rapids Technologies is very interesting but I would like to have a better display. If they could have all of the pages up at once I might have gone with them. I don't ever want to have to scroll around to see things that I always want to know. I've heard nothing but good things about the workings of the product and the integrity of the company. Prices: all include the obvious sensors but maybe not all Rocky Mountain $1579 unassembled $1879 assembled Grand Rapids $995 Vision Microsystems $3794 (probe inclusion not mentioned) One more thing to note is that the Rocky Mountain Monitor is a lighter installation than filling your panel with analog guages. You need quite a few guages to do all of the things that this one item can do. I will order and build the kit version. I plan on keeping it around until my job sends me on a road trip. Then I can utilize wasted time in some hotel room some where to continue building my RV. Can any one foresee a problem with this? Best regards, Norman Hunger Still haven't ever been for a ride in any model of RV. Sadness. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Super-Fil Curing
I had a simular event...I traces it to me mixing 1-1 instead of 2-1.....I must of mixed up hundreds of batches and the only soft-cure I got was a wrong mix. BTW I allways have white left over when the blue is out......others in my EAA chapter experience the same thing. Poly Fiber's Super Fill is GREAT stuff..my wife uses it to repair her hi-heels, broken items around the house...she uses water to smooth out the surface and it cures as normal. KBoatri144(at)aol.com on 09/27/99 10:51:32 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Super-Fil Curing A batch of Super Fil I mixed yesterday isn't curing well. After 30 hours or so, it is firm, but still won't pass the thumbnail test I've even put in the oven at 150 degrees for a few hours, hoping to get those molecules to do their thing. Another batch I made yesterday came out just fine. I figure I missed the ratio on the bad batch, didn't mix it well enough, or (most likely) didn't get the white component well mixed before I put it with the blue stuff. Any suggestions other than waiting it out or scraping it off? Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
mikel(at)dimensional.com on 09/28/99 11:43:33 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy side skirts I would suggest NOT using filler as the canopy skirts are visible from the inside of the airplane and any dents are going to show. Get new ones if they area really chewed up. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q There are no dents here to fill you... missed the point. See the earlier post..... the filler is used to join the skirt to the canopy plexi only..providing a radised fillet. The plexi is cut to meet the tube & THE Poly Fiber just makes the radius......there are no dents here........ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com>
Subject: tip up canopy RV-6
Date: Sep 28, 1999
GeeJaa (if that is your real name!) i am in Westchester County, about 20 mins from the Tappan Zee. my tip-up is under construction, and if all goes well, i will be cutting the plexi this weekend. you are welcome to stop by. contact me directly at louis.cappucci(at)gs.com if you are interested. louis cappucci rv-6a qb mamaroneck, ny mailto:louis.cappucci(at)gs.com > > > Just beginning my canopy and for some reason it's driving me > nuts. Is there > any builder within a 100 mile radius of northern New Jersey > that would let me > look at his canopy for some reference. Thanks, GeeJaa(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy side skirts
Doug, Thanks for the reply. Per Mark Fredericks recommendation I drilled my canopy mount holes to 3/16". This requires just a slight countersink. I trimmed my canopy pretty close to the bottom edge of the frame. On some of the holes I'd be a little nervous going to 1/4 due to edge distance. I hadnt realized that there was a tool that Avery sells that I didnt already own! Thanks for the info; I'll give it a try. Ive only done one side so far so no damage to the other yet. The first one I did doesnt actually look that bad after a 24 hour cooling off period. I think I can fix it. Did you have to notch the forward edge where Vans has already stretched the metal? I found that It wasnt stretched nearly enough and had to cut a couple of notches that I will have to cover with the fiberglass front fairing. Mike > >Mike: > >As we speak I am attaching the rear canopy skirts to my RV-4. I too have >the canopy attached to the frame with #6 CS screws into tapped holes drilled >in the tubular frame (6" spacing). Tip: drill all final holes in the >canopy to 1/4 diameter. Make a plastic bushing by cutting little 1/8" >chunks of plastic tubing that has a OD or 1/4" and an ID of 1/8". You will >not have to countersink the canopy then. The dimple from the canopy skirt >(or the #6 CS screw) will nicely squeeze into the plastic bushing and fit >perfect plus allow for canopy expansion and contraction. Use the pop rivets >Van calls out for the final skirt/canopy/frame attachment when everything is >all done. > >Get Avery's RV-4 canopy flanging tool. It works perfect. At $30 it will >save a ton of grief. My flanges bent perfectly. Since it sounds like your >skirts have been trashed, you may have to order replacements. Today I am >just about to start trimming the rear portion of the skirts which may be >another story. If you have any other questions, please contact me off list. > >Doug > >> I've been dreading this job for about 2 years. Canopy is now cut and >> drilled to the canopy frame (with no problems; this turned out to be an >> easier job than I thought it would be). I have the canopy temporarily >> screwed to the frame with countersunk screws to fit the side skirts. So >how >> do you do a good job of bending the flange that laps over the plexi? I >> tried the form block method described in the manual and now have a piece >of >> junk that I probably ought to replace. I can probably salvage it with the >> use of filler before painting but its sure frustrating. It appears that >> there simply isnt any way to get this thing to fit without resorting to >> some pretty expensive additions to my tool collection (english wheel >or??). >> >> Mike Wills >> RV-4 canopy >> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
NORMAN, SOMEBODY GIVE THAT POOR GUY A RIDE IN AN RV-YOU WOULD THINK AT LEAST ONE OF US WAS CLOSE ENOUGH TO GET HIM UP IN THE AIR ONCE IN AWHILE. HEY HE MIGHT EVEN LET YOU FLY HIS WHEN HE IS DONE BILL B RV-8QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
> Thanks all for the input on engine monitors. I have decided to go with Rocky > Mountain. The only drawback I feel I am conceding to is the lack of all four > EGT's. The plus is the huge savings on cost. The biggest reason that I am Since you've researched it pretty well, you probably know that you can get a switch from RMI that will let you select EGT/CHT's for any particular cylinder. It would be nice to have it look at all of them at once though. > I will order and build the kit version. I plan on keeping it around until my > job sends me on a road trip. Then I can utilize wasted time in some hotel > room some where to continue building my RV. Can any one foresee a problem > with this? That was my idea as well. I haven't started on the kit yet, but it won't be too long now. > Best regards, > Norman Hunger > Still haven't ever been for a ride in any model of RV. Sadness. OK, we can't have this now. Where are you located? Who's gonna give this man a ride??? Wish I could :-( Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Canopy- Be afraid ) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
To Norm and others....regarding building the RMI in a motel room....... you might consider bringing along a really good light for building, perhaps one with the magnifying lense. Maybe it is my age but when I built my RMI I found the good light and magnifier essential to check the solder joints and component installations. Other necessary tools are a good soldering iron (variable heat if possible) and something to hold the circuit boards while soldering. Good luck! The kit is well done. Dale Ensing 6A wiring panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Speaking of rides...
Speaking of rides... I live in Colorado Springs, CO, am building an -8A, and have never even seen an -8 in the flesh! I was recently at the 4th annual Burlington RV fly-in where we had 68 RV's, including Scott Risen from Van's in the -6A, but no -8's... If anyone with an -8 is ever in my neck of the woods... Please give me a call! -Bill Von Dane RV-8A empennage bvondane(at)atmel.com http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
> > To Norm and others....regarding building the RMI in a motel room....... > you might consider bringing along a really good light for building, perhaps > one with the magnifying lense. Maybe it is my age but when I built my RMI I > found the good light and magnifier essential to check the solder joints and > component installations. Other necessary tools are a good soldering iron > (variable heat if possible) and something to hold the circuit boards while > soldering. > Good luck! The kit is well done. > Dale Ensing > 6A wiring panel Yes, I was planning on a small kitbag with an iron, a pencil, an extra light, holding clamps, small suction cup vice, powerbar, various tools, and an extension cord. Don't have a magnifying glass yet. Norman Hunger Delta, BC. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Canopy stop drill
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Listers: I know you have heard this one before, but I'll panic anyway. I have a small crack in my -4 canopy coming from one of the 1/8" diam holes that I was drilling to attach the canopy skirt and canopy to the canopy frame (round tube). It is .4" in length from the edge of this hole extending up and forward. This hole is now 1/8" but will be enlarged to 1/4" to accommodate a 1/4" OD plastic tubing bushing through which the pop rivet will go. I know I need to stop drill this (of course it will just be above the skirt flange). Can I use a regular 1/16" drill bit to do this. Is there any type of "filler" to fill/strengthen this hole/crack (I know there are Plexiglas adhesives that melt the plexi if you want to bond two pieces together). Frustration!! And the canopy was going so well!!! =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
> Listers considering a Vision Microsystems Engine Monitor: > The price below is the best yet price offered for this system that I have > come across in my recent research. It is likely to be state of the art for > this company for the near future as well. I talked to the company today and > asked if they had anything new in the works and they said nothing definite. > On thing to note is that if you want to be warned in your headset when > something goes amiss under your cowl, you must buy the EC100 to go with the > VM1000. It is my personal opinion that this is a huge asset of > functionality. > > Regards, Norman > Thanks to Team Rocket for coming back to the list. > > > I can offer the VM1000 for $3061.50, and the EC100 for $599. These are > great > > prices. Please consider us before you decide to buy the Rocky mountain. > > thanks! > > > > Scott > > Team Rocket, inc. > > 561-748-2429 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy stop drill
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I would not use anything but a plexi bit on your stop hole. You could be asking for another crack. As far as bonding the crack, try to find some Weldon-3. If you cant find any, get some Methelyne Chloride. Ask your local drugstore (or medical supply house if necessary) and get a syringe with a sharp needle. Inject it in the crack and wipe off the excess. It will fuse the pieces together, and your crack will not continue. But please, don't make me explain as to why I know this..it brings back painful memories :-(. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 8:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Canopy stop drill > >Listers: > >I know you have heard this one before, but I'll panic anyway. I have a >small crack in my -4 canopy coming from one of the 1/8" diam holes that I >was drilling to attach the canopy skirt and canopy to the canopy frame >(round tube). It is .4" in length from the edge of this hole extending up >and forward. This hole is now 1/8" but will be enlarged to 1/4" to >accommodate a 1/4" OD plastic tubing bushing through which the pop rivet >will go. > >I know I need to stop drill this (of course it will just be above the skirt >flange). Can I use a regular 1/16" drill bit to do this. Is there any type >of "filler" to fill/strengthen this hole/crack (I know there are Plexiglas >adhesives that melt the plexi if you want to bond two pieces together). >Frustration!! > >And the canopy was going so well!!! > > >=========== >Doug Weiler >Hudson, WI >715-386-1239 >dougweil(at)pressenter.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: ACAD 2000
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I just received my upgrade of AutoCad 2000 and Mechanical Desktop 4. In the front of the 2000 manual is a picture of an RV-6 credited to Adrian Scott-Murphy, Australia. Does anyone know this person? I sure would like to get a copy of that file. It is a complete 3D model of the airplane without the skins. This would have been great to use when figuring out routings of wires, tubing, locations of valves, transducers, filters, etc. I'll volunteer to finish up the drawing with the engine installation if I had this file as a starting point. That is after I finish my -6, of course. Rick Caldwell RV-6 N136RC Melbourne, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: All Electric
Date: Sep 28, 1999
> >Has anyone considered placed an all electric panel with 2 batteries and > >two alternators? > > > >Any thoughts on this? > > Yes, this is one of the standard "Electric Bob Official Electrical System > Configurations." It makes sense and can be done fairly easily these days. > B&C makes a very nice line of dynamos/alternators that mount on the vacuum > pump pad. > Me too. The second alternator is made by B&C Specialty Products 316-283-8000. They have two models that mount on the vacume pump pad. 8 amps for $410 20 amps for $685 They sell gobs of other stuff, ask for a catalog. To hook everything up Electric Bob offers complete instructions and other widgets. I don't have my engine yet but I am 99% convinced that this is the way to go for my IFR cross country ship. When I do start buying all of this stuff I plan on getting as much stuff as possible from Bob and the alternator from B&C. Bob is ever so worthy of support as he constantly dedicates his expertise to help kitbuilders of all persuasions. Even demented ones building airplanes out of the same material as porta-potties. What a guy and truly an real expert with mega years of experience. On the other hand I am a complete amateur enjoying kitbuilding as a truly wonderful yet very serious hobby. Kind of liking this internet listing thing too. Regards, Norman Hunger Delta, BC, RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA
Other than interface and price, can someone summerize the difference between the LRI AOA and the Proprietary Software Systems AOA? They provide the the exact same info....Right? -Larry RV-8 wings http://Bowenaero.com > > Norman, > > I looked at this AOA at Golden West a couple of weeks ago. Others have > given you a URL so I wont bother with that. I do have something to add > though. The web page as well as their sales brochures depict only the > analog instrument which they have been selling for quite some time. They > now have a digital instrument using LEDs for display. This instrument is > currently available in a standard 2.25" round instrument config and will > soon be available in a bar type config also. I plan to go with the digital > though Im not certain which one yet. Suggest you contact them for further > info. Email address is available via their website. > > Mike Wills > RV-4 canopy > willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: wings for sale
For sale RV6A wings, flaps, ailerons, tanks and lights. Built by experenced builder. $4950.00 Bob Baggett 615-643-1030 accuracy(at)earthlink.net located in Central Tennessee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Canopy stop drill
> >I would not use anything but a plexi bit on your stop hole. You could be >asking for another crack. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://members.home.net/rv8er >Finish Kit > After drilling numerous practice holes in scrap plexi I drilled all the pilot holes in my canopy with a standard #40 high speed steel bit. When drilling the practice holes I did all the things you are not supposed to do: drilling cold plexi, drilling at high speed, drilling with lots of pressure on the drill, drilling with no back-up on the back side of the plexi. I wanted to know just what you could get away with. I found that it was actually pretty difficult to get a crack with the #40. Not so with a 1/8 or larger. It was relatively easy to drill as long as you are reasonably careful. My local plastic supplier didnt carry any plexi bits smaller than 1/8. Thats why I used the #40. I used a Unibit rather than the plexi bits to enlarge the holes and it worked very well. I would do it the same way next time. Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-6 Heat Selector Box
Hi, I would like to hear from other RV-6 builders as to the firewall mounting location of their heat selector box. I can't find space for it low, as the engine mount interferes with it. I can't mount it centered on the firewall due to the battery box and firewall recess. Any suggestions? If it's mounted off center, how can the heat be distributed to the pilot & passenger before it rises up under the panel? Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
Subject: Engine Monitor Summary
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I just finished both the microMonitor and microEncoder. I bought everything on the RMI order form*, including the Compass Module, which works really well in my testing. I have a 500 watt halogen light on a dimmer that I used, plus a $4 magnifying glass from Harbor Freight to visually verify the soldering. The kits are very well laid out. Be sure to go slowly step by step. If you follow the very well written instructions, you won't have any problems. It took me about 23 hours to assemble both. I analyzed the RMI, the AV-8, the Grand Rapids, and the Allegro M816 and chose the RMI microMonitor. It is light, less expensive and displays everything. The only drawbacks are one EGT/CHT, (use a switch to view the other 3), and the temps, except outside temp, is in centigrade. (only a problem for us in the U.S.) Price, panel space, (size and shape) desired functions & functions displayed are just a few of the considerations. The right engine monitor for you will vary depending on how your requirements and restrictions are weighted. *4 cht probes, 4 EGT probes, EGT / CHT switch, fuel flow, manifold press., carb temp. nice web page too: http://www.rkymtn.com/ Dave Biddle Phoenix RV6A, still working on the sliding canopy Navaid arrived last week -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Hunger Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 10:31 AM Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor Summarry Thanks all for the input on engine monitors. I have decided to go with Rocky Mountain. The only drawback I feel I am conceding to is the lack of all four EGT's. The plus is the huge savings on cost. The biggest reason that I am buying a digital processor is for the built in presetable alarms. I consider this a massive advantage to single pilot flying. Nice to know that a computer is scanning my oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, ect, ect, more frequently than I possibly could. Vision Microsystems is the prettiest display but I'm not going to let that be the deciding factor for me. Their monitor will flash the display of any value that exceeds a pre set parameter but it won't give you the tone in your headset until you buy their optional EC100 display as well. This is factored into the price I list below as I consider an audible warning a must have feature. Grand Rapids Technologies is very interesting but I would like to have a better display. If they could have all of the pages up at once I might have gone with them. I don't ever want to have to scroll around to see things that I always want to know. I've heard nothing but good things about the workings of the product and the integrity of the company. Prices: all include the obvious sensors but maybe not all Rocky Mountain $1579 unassembled $1879 assembled Grand Rapids $995 Vision Microsystems $3794 (probe inclusion not mentioned) One more thing to note is that the Rocky Mountain Monitor is a lighter installation than filling your panel with analog guages. You need quite a few guages to do all of the things that this one item can do. I will order and build the kit version. I plan on keeping it around until my job sends me on a road trip. Then I can utilize wasted time in some hotel room some where to continue building my RV. Can any one foresee a problem with this? Best regards, Norman Hunger Still haven't ever been for a ride in any model of RV. Sadness. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA
On Tue, 28 Sep 1999, Larry Bowen wrote: > > Other than interface and price, can someone summerize the difference between > the LRI AOA and the Proprietary Software Systems AOA? They provide the the > exact same info....Right? Not entirely. The PSS AoA system provides other data output that might be useful during flight testing: wing loading, IAS, AoA units. Also the PSS AoA has calibration for both flaps up and flaps down. Since the angle of incidence changes between flaps up and flaps down for the same AoA, it appears to me that the LRI will be accurate in only one of the two configurations. The PSS AoA is calibrated at four data points; i.e. zero lift flaps up, zero lift flaps down, 1.15*Vs0, 1.15*Vs1; it is accurate in both aircraft configurations. As far as I can tell, the LRI has only one calibration point, the angle of the probe. I don't know about the LRI but I know that the PSS AoA is absolutely spot on for both configs. I have done accelerated stalls at 1-4.5 Gs clean and 1-2 Gs dirty and know that it is right on there too. Also the aural warning at 1.15*Vs ("angle angle push") is nice to have when you are heads up. Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I have built both and their is a description and photos of the kit on my website, if you care to view them: http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 5:42 PM Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor Summarry > >Thanks all for the input on engine monitors. I have decided to go with Rocky >Mountain. The only drawback I feel I am conceding to is the lack of all four >EGT's. The plus is the huge savings on cost. The biggest reason that I am >buying a digital processor is for the built in presetable alarms. I consider >this a massive advantage to single pilot flying. Nice to know that a >computer is scanning my oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, ect, ect, >more frequently than I possibly could. > >Vision Microsystems is the prettiest display but I'm not going to let that >be the deciding factor for me. Their monitor will flash the display of any >value that exceeds a pre set parameter but it won't give you the tone in >your headset until you buy their optional EC100 display as well. This is >factored into the price I list below as I consider an audible warning a must >have feature. > >Grand Rapids Technologies is very interesting but I would like to have a >better display. If they could have all of the pages up at once I might have >gone with them. I don't ever want to have to scroll around to see things >that I always want to know. >I've heard nothing but good things about the workings of the product and the >integrity of the company. > >Prices: all include the obvious sensors but maybe not all > >Rocky Mountain $1579 unassembled $1879 assembled >Grand Rapids $995 >Vision Microsystems $3794 (probe inclusion not mentioned) > >One more thing to note is that the Rocky Mountain Monitor is a lighter >installation than filling your panel with analog guages. You need quite a >few guages to do all of the things that this one item can do. > >I will order and build the kit version. I plan on keeping it around until my >job sends me on a road trip. Then I can utilize wasted time in some hotel >room some where to continue building my RV. Can any one foresee a problem >with this? > > >Best regards, >Norman Hunger >Still haven't ever been for a ride in any model of RV. Sadness. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Super-Fil Curing
Date: Sep 28, 1999
> >I had a simular event...I traces it to me mixing 1-1 instead of 2-1.....I >must >of mixed up hundreds of batches and the only soft-cure I got was a wrong >mix. >BTW I allways have white left over when the blue is out......others in my >EAA >chapter experience the same thing. Poly Fiber's Super Fill is GREAT >stuff..my >wife uses it to repair her hi-heels, broken items around the house...she >uses >water to smooth out the surface and it cures as normal. > > >KBoatri144(at)aol.com on 09/27/99 10:51:32 PM I just tried Superfil for the first time to smooth out the windscreen fairing. GREAT stuff! I would like to finish it off with another thin coat that is thinned. The label says to use MEK for cleanup. Can I assume this will also work to thin the mixture so it spreads easier? I had no problems with cure time. It was ready to sand in 24 hours, or maybe less. It IS tough stuff! I just need to find some super coarse sandpaper to cut the stuff before my elbow burns out. I used a wood rasp to hack away the high spots, which works pretty well. I went with the weight measurement vs. volume. Kinda reminded me of proseal! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD moving to airport this week ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of rides...
Date: Sep 28, 1999
>From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Speaking of rides... >Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 14:00:48 -0600 > > >Speaking of rides... > >I live in Colorado Springs, CO, am building an -8A, and have never even >seen >an -8 in the flesh! > >I was recently at the 4th annual Burlington RV fly-in where we had 68 RV's, >including Scott Risen from Van's in the -6A, but no -8's... > >If anyone with an -8 is ever in my neck of the woods... Please give me a >call! > >-Bill Von Dane >RV-8A empennage >bvondane(at)atmel.com >http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor Bill, As soon as my local flyoff time is completed, I'll come visit ya! I'm in Albuquerque, so it would be a pretty quick trip up there. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Hangar move this weekend. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Heat resistant cable ties for the engine compartment.
You wrote: I am wondering about heat resistance of wire ties. What is the spec'd heat range for the ties you sell? Is there such a thing as teflon ties for higher heat applications? I am specifically concerned about the ones in the engine compartment. Thanks in advance. -- Randall Henderson randall(at)edt.com Hi Randall:Thanks for the inquiry. Our nylon ties that are listed on the site are Mil Spec and Temp rated 6/6 nylon at 85 to 95 F. continuous operation. If you want high temp, which by the way is a really good question. We have Tefzel which has a continuous operating temp of 302 F (150 C). It is rated excellent for resistance to, chemicals, solvents, oil and radiation. They only come in the color Aqua. Lengths and tensile strength are 3-1/2"@12lbs.- 6-1/2" @ 50lbs , 14" @50 lbs. and 14" heavy duty @120lbs. Or we also carry stainless steel ties. All rated at 100lbs tensile strength lengths are 7.9" -14.2"- 20.4"-26.8". They are really High Temp rated! This should give you several choices. Let me know if I can be of further help. I hope you don't mind, but I am going to post this to the RV list, since I think it may be of interest to other builders. ( PS to the list: If these types of ties are of interest let me know and I will put up a page on them for you. ) John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: Engine Monitor Summary
I really like the idea of having an AV-8 or AV-10 in my RV-8. HOWEVER, I keep hearing stories of poor service and delivery after the check is cashed. I sent an email to the company, asking them to reasure me...but never heard from them. So as much as I want one, I think I would have to be sadistic to order one. No? Larry Bowen RV-8 wings Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Biddle > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 6:34 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Monitor Summary > > > I just finished both the microMonitor and microEncoder. I bought > everything > on the RMI order form*, including the Compass Module, which works really > well in my testing. I have a 500 watt halogen light on a dimmer > that I used, > plus a $4 magnifying glass from Harbor Freight to visually verify the > soldering. The kits are very well laid out. Be sure to go slowly step by > step. If you follow the very well written instructions, you won't have any > problems. It took me about 23 hours to assemble both. I analyzed the RMI, > the AV-8, the Grand Rapids, and the Allegro M816 and chose the RMI > microMonitor. It is light, less expensive and displays > everything. The only > drawbacks are one EGT/CHT, (use a switch to view the other 3), and the > temps, except outside temp, is in centigrade. (only a problem for > us in the > U.S.) Price, panel space, (size and shape) desired functions & functions > displayed are just a few of the considerations. The right engine > monitor for > you will vary depending on how your requirements and restrictions are > weighted. > > *4 cht probes, 4 EGT probes, EGT / CHT switch, fuel flow, manifold press., > carb temp. > > nice web page too: > > http://www.rkymtn.com/ > > Dave Biddle > Phoenix > RV6A, still working on the sliding canopy > Navaid arrived last week > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Hunger > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 10:31 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor Summarry > > > Thanks all for the input on engine monitors. I have decided to go > with Rocky > Mountain. The only drawback I feel I am conceding to is the lack > of all four > EGT's. The plus is the huge savings on cost. The biggest reason that I am > buying a digital processor is for the built in presetable alarms. > I consider > this a massive advantage to single pilot flying. Nice to know that a > computer is scanning my oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, ect, ect, > more frequently than I possibly could. > > Vision Microsystems is the prettiest display but I'm not going to let that > be the deciding factor for me. Their monitor will flash the display of any > value that exceeds a pre set parameter but it won't give you the tone in > your headset until you buy their optional EC100 display as well. This is > factored into the price I list below as I consider an audible > warning a must > have feature. > > Grand Rapids Technologies is very interesting but I would like to have a > better display. If they could have all of the pages up at once I > might have > gone with them. I don't ever want to have to scroll around to see things > that I always want to know. > I've heard nothing but good things about the workings of the > product and the > integrity of the company. > > Prices: all include the obvious sensors but maybe not all > > Rocky Mountain $1579 unassembled $1879 assembled > Grand Rapids $995 > Vision Microsystems $3794 (probe inclusion not mentioned) [snip] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Engine Monitor Summarry
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I have built both and their is a description and photos of the kit on my website, if you care to view them: http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: A good idea on securing cowl pins??
I'm looking an August 1995 article entitled "More on Cowl Pins" on p. 96 of the book entitled "16 years of the RV-ator". The first figure depicts used of a single eyelet of hinge to secure the cowl half pin at the 90 degree bend at the end. I don't know if this is a new idea or not, but why not flip the hinge eyelet over so that the bend in the pin sits within a slot cut into the side of the cowl? This installation would be more flush than the original recommendation and certainly more aesthetically pleasing. A little bit of material would have to be removed forward of the slot so the pin could be pulled forward for removal once it's rotated 90 degrees out of the slot. The slot cut into the cowl wouldn't crack because the area would be backed up by an aluminum reinforcement which is needed anyway for the nut plate. Does anyone have any ideas why this wouldn't work? - Glenn Gordon (RV-6) (Fitting cowl) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Hi Tec redneck
John, My apologies. I just upgraded my email software last night. I guess "I've" still got some bugs in me. The message was sent to the RV-list in error. With a red face Charlie Kuss John Chalker wrote: > What does that have to do with RV's?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: MFD Displays
Hey listers, I want to get an opinion pole here (oh no). I am going to put an MFD display in my Rocket. I will use it in place of a DG, and it will also function as a moving map GPS. I also want to use one as a replacement for my Attitude instrument, and run an electronic attitude display. Now I have seen all kinds of MFDs and systems that can do this type of stuff, however, i have not seen one that is even remotely affordable. So, unless I am missing something, is there such a thing out there that is affordable? Somebody has to have some info that can point me in the right direction. Thanks! Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A good idea on securing cowl pins??
--- Glenn & Judi wrote: > > > I'm looking an August 1995 article entitled "More on > Cowl Pins" on p. 96 > of the book entitled "16 years of the RV-ator". The > first figure > depicts used of a single eyelet of hinge to secure > the cowl half pin at > the 90 degree bend at the end. > > I don't know if this is a new idea or not, but why > not flip the hinge > eyelet over so that the bend in the pin sits within > a slot cut into the > side of the cowl? This installation would be more > flush than the > original recommendation and certainly more > aesthetically pleasing. A > little bit of material would have to be removed > forward of the slot so > the pin could be pulled forward for removal once > it's rotated 90 degrees > out of the slot. The slot cut into the cowl > wouldn't crack because the > area would be backed up by an aluminum reinforcement > which is needed > anyway for the nut plate. > > Does anyone have any ideas why this wouldn't work? > > - Glenn Gordon (RV-6) > (Fitting cowl) Glenn: I used a tear drop shaped piece of 0.040 2024-0 aluminum "bumped" to fit the cowl with the hinge eye rivited to it. I did grind down into the fiberglass so that it sits flush on the cowl. I have two # 8 countersunk screws securing the tear drop aluminum to the cowl. One screw on the upper and one on the lower. This way the aluminum hopefully helps hold the cowl together and the pin from breaking and extending into the propeller. Did not use any reinforcement on the nutplate to fiberglass. After 430+ flying hours, it has worked great. There are several RV-4's flying around with the cowl the same way. I "stole" the idea from them. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Heat resistant cable ties for the engine compartment.
Great John!!!! Put on prices too !!!! Jim Brown, RV-2 flying, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net>
Subject: Gear and flex
Finn wrote: >> Subject: RV-List: Soft RV3 gear legs? I'm having a severe shimmy problem at about 20 mph, and am checking into different causes, one of them being the possibility of soft (not heat treated) gear legs...I've tried to determine hardness with a file and a center punch, with no success...With approx. 340 lbs per main wheel, I have to lift a wing up more than 4 inches before the wheel will clear the ground. In other words, the gear leg compresses 4 inches or more with a 340 lbs load.<< I am a Naval Architect, licensed as a Mechanical Engineer and building an airplane. My next door neighbor at work is a heat treat expert...so for the information of those interested: Shimmy is a pretty non-specific description. Whitman gear legs, like we use, are flexible fore and aft as well as up and down, so some fore and aft motion at low speeds, especially in grass seems normal and in fact is one reason for the success of the gear. The amount of motion is a function of stiffness/flexibility, damping and excitation. How the top end of the gear leg is fitted may make a small difference, if fit is improper. The state of heat treatment has nothing to do with any of these, to a degree you could notice. Stiffness/flexibility is governed by material (steel for us) and shape of the gear leg. Heat treated, highly alloyed or not, the steel has an elastic modulus of 30 million psi. The gear leg geometry is fixed at machining and the support (presuming fit properly) is built into the mounts. Stiffness is not a variable. Wood fairings may add slightly to stiffness fore and aft, and will affect damping. Excitation is controlled by the surface you are on and the inflation and alignment of your tires. Checking hardness of high stress areas of a gear leg with a punch or file...not a good thing. Hardness is checked by using a small ball and, in a controlled way, pressing it into the metal, and measuring how far it went in. Getting accurate measurements is a skill even using precise instruments. Punches and files make stress risers. You want a smooth surface with no notches or sharp transitions. Heat treatment (and other special surface treatments) affects how tough the gear leg is, how many cycles it will withstand before it begins to crack, how far it will go before taking a set, etc. Surface hardness, which a good machine shop can do or have done, will provide some indication of heat treatment and surface state, but only a destructive test is definitive. These are not homebuilder skills. The archive and Van's report on leg problems go into more depth. Van's comments are easy to read and technically sound, IMHO. Ken Smith Working Rudder and wings RV6. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: A good idea on securing cowl pins??
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Any chance in getting a picture of this, Gary? I will post it on my website if you could email one..it is kind of hard to picture it... Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 12:58 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: A good idea on securing cowl pins?? > >--- Glenn & Judi wrote: >> >> >> I'm looking an August 1995 article entitled "More on >> Cowl Pins" on p. 96 >> of the book entitled "16 years of the RV-ator". The >> first figure >> depicts used of a single eyelet of hinge to secure >> the cowl half pin at >> the 90 degree bend at the end. >> >> I don't know if this is a new idea or not, but why >> not flip the hinge >> eyelet over so that the bend in the pin sits within >> a slot cut into the >> side of the cowl? This installation would be more >> flush than the >> original recommendation and certainly more >> aesthetically pleasing. A >> little bit of material would have to be removed >> forward of the slot so >> the pin could be pulled forward for removal once >> it's rotated 90 degrees >> out of the slot. The slot cut into the cowl >> wouldn't crack because the >> area would be backed up by an aluminum reinforcement >> which is needed >> anyway for the nut plate. >> >> Does anyone have any ideas why this wouldn't work? >> >> - Glenn Gordon (RV-6) >> (Fitting cowl) > >Glenn: > >I used a tear drop shaped piece of 0.040 2024-0 >aluminum "bumped" to fit the cowl with the hinge eye >rivited to it. I did grind down into the fiberglass >so that it sits flush on the cowl. I have two # 8 >countersunk screws securing the tear drop aluminum to >the cowl. One screw on the upper and one on the >lower. This way the aluminum hopefully helps hold the >cowl together and the pin from breaking and extending >into the propeller. Did not use any reinforcement on >the nutplate to fiberglass. > >After 430+ flying hours, it has worked great. There >are several RV-4's flying around with the cowl the >same way. I "stole" the idea from them. > > >==== >Gary A. Sobek >"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, >So. CA, USA >Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: MD-42-BS
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Can someone tell me what one of these pop rivets look like? I understand it is a steel rivet, and I have some aluminum countersunk, long reach rivets that are in this bin. confused.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Verticle Stab
VS-808 is the VS stiffener for the RV-8 Dave Hrycauk RV-8 ser #80972 Left Elevator (Wings Inventoried) Bonnyville, AB Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Matt Garrett wrote: > > Hey All, > > Just started the Vert Stab and found that the VS-608 stiffener pre-drilled > holes do not line up with the spar channel VS-603 holes(off by 1/2" in some > places). What I'm really wondering is if I have the wrong part. The > stiffener label on the part I have actually says VS-808, and I'm wondering > if I have the stiffener for the RV8. Has anyone else: > > 1. run into the problem of holes not lining up?, and...or, > > 2. received parts for another RV? > > Help, Stuck, done for the night. > > Matt > RV6 tail > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Gear and flex
In a message dated 9/28/99 9:43:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kpsmith(at)ais.net writes: << I'm having a severe shimmy problem at about 20 mph, >> Check your tire pressure. Too high a tire pressure will cause the legs to shimmy. I think that the pressure should be about 25 lbs, but check your manual. This is a step that alot of builders overlook. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Heat resistant cable ties for the engine compartment.
In a message dated 9/28/99 6:32:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, A20driver(at)aol.com writes: > > > Great John!!!! Put on prices too !!!! Jim Brown, RV-2 flying, NJ > > Hi Jim: Please be aware when you make "em" out of Tefzel they ain't cheap. But they will do the job and last! Tefzel Ties are up. You can find them at the bottom of http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page8.html or click here Cable ties The stainless steel ties will be on the same page later tonight. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Engine Monitor Summarry
In a message dated 9/28/99 1:58:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, DWENSING(at)aol.com writes: << Other necessary tools are a good soldering iron (variable heat if possible) >> And, for those of you whom are unfamiliar, a nice choice is to buy your solder in the 63/37 ratio instead of the standard 60/40. 63/37 has "no plastic state" for all practical purposes, so is less apt to fracture. A train passing by that motel room would not hurt a thing. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
Subject: Re: tip up canopy RV-6
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
I am now installing the plexi to my canopy frame. I am ready to do the final installation of the rear canopy. The front canopy is drilled to the frame. You are wellcome to visit and look it over. I am here most of the time since I'm retired. My phone number is (914) 227-8527 . Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) > >Just beginning my canopy and for some reason it's driving me nuts. Is >there >any builder within a 100 mile radius of northern New Jersey that would >let me >look at his canopy for some reference. Thanks, GeeJaa(at)aol.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: mark delano <mdelano(at)mho.net>
Subject: Simple Question
How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? I assume it will become difficult to remove as it does on old acrylic sheet. Mark Delano Littleton CO, Flaps 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Questions
Hello. I've traded junk for junk with a couple of home-builders and one of the things I've picked up is an alternator of questionable parentage. It is 0 TSOH from an alternator shop, automotive with no labels. The guy told me that his partner got it with "aircraft diodes" (whatever that means). Not much . . . It has a larger pulley on it from an AC generator. I took it to an auto parts store shop and had it tested (good) and we determined that it is a 60 amp model similar to what was used on early 70's Fords (Mopar). It has connections for Field, Stator, and Bat. This is a real pig compared to the Nipon-Dienso machines B&C is selling. Question 1: It tested out OK, but when I measure the resistance from Field to Ground, I get a *very* low number, almost like a short. Am I missing something? What keeps this from popping the Field circuit breaker when you 1st turn on the master switch? How low is low? Field resistance of a 14 volt alternator is generally in the 3-4 ohm range. A digital multimeter might read this low of a resistance accurately . . . very few low cost analog meters will do it. Question 2: In the auto diagram, the only thing they use the Stator connection for is to run the electric choke (?!?). Yes . . . it applies heat to the choke's bi-metal actuator ONLY when the engine is running. If one simply hooked the choke heater to the ignition switch, it would begin to heat up even if the engine were not running. I asked "Are you sure they don't mean choke as in filter?" The guy seemed sure this was the carburetor electric choke. Correct. If so, does the Stator need to be connected to anything? No . . . Question 3: The fan is of course backwards. Don't worry about it. It's a centrifugal fan and is only slightly affected by direction that the vanes are pointing . . . in fact, if you check out the blower in your furnace, you'll find that the blades on the blower point FORWARD with respect to rotation. With the baffling in my cowling, both the front of the starter and the alternator will be in the high pressure cool air and the rear of each in the low pressure hot air. In normal operation the fan would be trying to suck hot air against the cowling pressure. Sense there is some cooling pressure even when the plane is just taxiing and the cool air will blow from front to rear, do I need a fan at all? Yes. Leave the existing fan in place. You may want to reduce pulley size so that you can get full output at taxi RPMs . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: tip up canopy RV-6
I'm a wee bit more than 100mile from NJ but in case you're interested.... look me up at 2W6. A bit south of Baltimore. N985VU > >Just beginning my canopy and for some reason it's driving me nuts. Is there >any builder within a 100 mile radius of northern New Jersey that would let me >look at his canopy for some reference. Thanks, GeeJaa(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Baffle Seal Question
Date: Sep 28, 1999
I must have missed it..can someone tell me the width of the baffle seal that needs to be cut? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Date: Sep 29, 1999
> How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > I assume it will become difficult to remove as it does on old > acrylic sheet. > > Mark Delano > Littleton CO, > Flaps 6A coleman lantern fluid takes the vinyl gook off with a few wipes. I wait till the last minute with mine... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: MFD Displays
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Scott, Seems like this is holy grail of instruments. All the commercial products with attitude & heading reference are geared toward use in certified aircraft. Hence they have to go down the TSO route and the attendant development costs get passed along. The AHRS and sunlight readable displays are expensive components by themselves. Add in the rate of return investors expect plus the price range of their target airframes and it's easy to see why they all start in the 5 figure range. Also notice how most avionic MFD's are being designed to fit the standard 6.25" radio rack. They want the new production and replacement radio business plus ongoing sales of datacards and WX broadcast services. A couple thousand IFR capable homebuilts don't even make a dent in their marketing plans. Can't say I blame them from a business perspective. You might try joining and posting to the Avionics List (subscribe to owner-avionics(at)awpi.com). This is the one now run by Brian Michalk (following Don Corbitt's death), not Matt's new list (sorry Matt, I think yours is redundant). There are a number of very knowledgeable and opinionated folks there that have kicked this subject around in the past. I plan to avoid the issue by rolling my own display but without the AHRS/gyros, i.e. strictly VFR. I'll add the AHRS when/if it becomes more affordable. I'll have a Navaid as backup for inadvertent IMC. Even this way I don't think I could economically justify the displays over steam gauges. But then again, I don't have to. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) > > Hey listers, > > I want to get an opinion pole here (oh no). I am going to put an > MFD display > in my Rocket. I will use it in place of a DG, and it will also > function as a > moving map GPS. I also want to use one as a replacement for my Attitude > instrument, and run an electronic attitude display. Now I have > seen all kinds > of MFDs and systems that can do this type of stuff, however, i > have not seen > one that is even remotely affordable. So, unless I am missing > something, is > there such a thing out there that is affordable? > Somebody has to have some info that can point me in the right direction. > > Thanks! > > Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: How do you get the wheels apart?
Date: Sep 29, 1999
I am in the process of mounting tires to my shiny new Cleveland wheels. I removed the three bolts but can't seem to split the wheel. I tried thumping on the wheel with a soft mallet, but don't want to hit it hard. Any of you care to share tricks of the trade about how to persuade the wheel to fall in half? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Mark, I've left the plastic on some of my parts for over a year. I don't remove the stuff till it's time to dimple the skins. I fear scratching the skins more than removing the plastic. When I am ready to start my etch,Alodine, and epoxy prime preparations, I start by scuffing the sheets with a ScotchBrite pad soaked in solvent (lacquer thinner, Toluene, etc.) I do about a 2-3 square foot area, then dry the solvent off with clean paper towels. This will help the primer adhere and insures that you didn't accidentally leave a small snippet of plastic behind. Ask me how I know!! The solvent also removes any residual adhesive from the plastic. Charlie Kuss RV-8 drilling fuel tank stiffeners to skins & prepping leading edge parts for painting. Boca Raton, Fl. > How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > I assume it will become difficult to remove as it does on old > acrylic sheet. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dalski, Dave" <dave.dalski(at)eds.com>
Subject: Tools Needed
Date: Sep 29, 1999
I am starting an RV-8A project and looking for used tools for sale. I am especially looking for a Clecos, 3X rivet gun, rivet squeezer, "C" frame rivet tool - or ANYTHING else. I live in the Dallas area. Thanks! > David W. Dalski > Tel: (972)797-3350 > email: dave.dalski(at)eds.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WHigg1170(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Video from Vans
Hello, We are building an RV6 and I was wondering has anyone ever seen the video's Vans puts out like the empanage video? Is it worth the money. Is it a big help? Does anyone have any for sale? Beth Higgins Massachusetts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Video from Vans
Beth... I have the pre-punched empennage video and I think it is a great help... After watching the video, the builders manual make perfect sense... I borrowed mine from another builder, I would think you would be able to do the same... -Bill Von Dane RV-8A empennage bvondane(at)atmel.com http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor Hello, We are building an RV6 and I was wondering has anyone ever seen the video's Vans puts out like the empanage video? Is it worth the money. Is it a big help? Does anyone have any for sale? Beth Higgins Massachusetts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 200HP in RV6A
Bob. I think the RV6 is limited to the 180HP due to design limitations Peter Sandra Baggett wrote: > > > I am planing on putting a 200 HP Lycoming engine in my RV6A. I presently > have a 180. Does anyone know what I will have to change about the > cowling and engine mount, and the location of the battery? Any tips > would be greatly appreciated. Also anyone that has a 200 HP Lycoming for > sale let me know. You may respond off list at accuracy(at)earthlink.net. > > Thanks > Bob Baggett > RV6A flying > -- Peter Laurence RV6-A plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: builders bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Video from Vans
> We are building an RV6 and I was wondering has anyone ever seen the video's > Vans puts out like the empanage video? Is it worth the money. Is it a big > help? > Does anyone have any for sale? > Beth Higgins > Massachusetts The videos you are referring to are produced by George Orndorff. There are a number of them covering each stage of development from the tail group to the interior of your cabin, a seperate ones for the RV-6/6A and RV-8. The consensus, (which I agree with) is that unless you have a close neighbor who is also building or has a plane that you can view often during the building cycle, the tapes are useful. I was lucky when I built and had that next door neighbor who was just a few steps ahead of me during most of the process. I always found it very useful and time saving to look at his project to help visualize what the plans were showing. If you too are fortunate enough to have a situation like this, then the videos are probably not neccessary. If not, the videos are probabably the next best thing. The videos are available from a number of places including direct from the Orndorffs, from Vans, and from Builder's Bookstore. Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
"Andy Whittington" ,
Subject: RV Flyers close to Central Indiana
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Fellow flyers and builders, My name is Randy Pflanzer. I will be moving my RV-6 out of the garage and into a hangar at Indianapolis Metropolitan airport within the next month. I'm also working on my tailwheel endorsement too. I would like to get a few hours of right seat time in a RV-6 before making my first flight. Is there anyone out here that would be willing to help me out? I would be willing to pay costs associated with this assistance. I am guessing that first flight will be sometime in November or December at this point. Any offers of assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "Painting" rpflanze(at)iquest.net - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Heat Selector Box
Date: Sep 29, 1999
I asked this question of Van's staff at Oshkosh a few years ago when I was there. Bill Benedict suggested using the small heat box (triangular in shape with a flap-like door) mounted on the right side of the firewall up high. I placed mine centered in the upper triangle formed by the firewall reinforcement angles on the right side. This placed it close to the heat muff (mine only fit on the right exhaust). It vents directly into the cabin. I didn't use any kind of plenum. I've been told that this will work just fine. I'm not flying yet (but close) so I should be able to try it out during the cold Indiana winters soon. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "Painting" -----Original Message----- From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 5:10 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Heat Selector Box > >Hi, >I would like to hear from other RV-6 builders as to the firewall >mounting location of their heat selector box. I can't find space for it >low, as the engine mount interferes with it. I can't mount it centered >on the firewall due to the battery box and firewall recess. Any >suggestions? If it's mounted off center, how can the heat be >distributed to the pilot & passenger before it rises up under the panel? > >Thanks, >Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net>
Subject: Re: wings for sale
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Where are youy located. Are the wings primed on the inside? george(at)atlantic.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle Seal Question
Date: Sep 29, 1999
> > >I must have missed it..can someone tell me the width of the baffle seal >that >needs to be cut? > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://members.home.net/rv8er >Finish Kit Paul, Hmm, tough question. Kinda like "how much money do I need to build an RV" ;) Well, Most of my seal strips are about 3" wide, with the gap between the aluminum baffles and the cowl about a finger's width...which is the only way to really measure it...by feel. Some of the strips I trimmed down if they ended up curling away from the cowl surface, like at the glued-on inlet ramps. I have about 1" of the seals overlapping the baffles, with the rivets placed halfway into that. You can look at my webpage for some ideas if you think that might help you visualize the whole mess. I hope to meet ya at Copperstate! I'll be there Thursday-Saturday. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD moving to hangar on Friday! > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Video from Vans
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Buy them all...you won't regret it...they are an invaluable tool to building, IMHO...you can build without them, but it sure does make it easier.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: WHigg1170(at)aol.com <WHigg1170(at)aol.com> Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 1:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Video from Vans > >Hello, >We are building an RV6 and I was wondering has anyone ever seen the video's >Vans puts out like the empanage video? Is it worth the money. Is it a big >help? >Does anyone have any for sale? >Beth Higgins >Massachusetts > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Mel Ewing <mele(at)freemail.com>
Subject: Montana Builders ??
Listers, Well, I've been lurking on the list for a while, and I'm most probably 6 months out before purchasing a tail kit. (I figure I should at least finish my PPL before beginning to build....) My situation is this... I, like a good majority of people, are having a heck of a time deciding between the 6A and 8A. I'm not going to ask anyones opinion (Especially after browsing the archives!!) but what I would like to do is check out each model seperately, in any phase of construction. (And heck, if anyone is giving rides, I think I could handle that also...) I live in Missoula Montana, and travel to Billings often. If there are any builders in the area, I would love to know. Thanks! Mel Ewing 6A or 8A that is the question.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Subject: Video from Vans
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Beth, These videos are the same ones (I believe) produced by George and Becky Orndorff, who are active list participants. FWIW, I used the empennage video for my pre-punched RV-6A and found it extremely useful, as most people have. But for some unknown reason, I started on my wings without buying the video, and everytime I spend hours staring at the plans and the increasingly brief instructions, I regret it. But then I do figure it out, which brings a level of satisfaction in itself, and think that maybe I don't really need the video and that I'm too far along to make it worthwhile. I think that until I get confused again (which happens often). Bottom line: Get the videos -- I sure will for the fuselage! Peter Christensen RV-6A Wings Pittsburgh, PA > > Hello, > We are building an RV6 and I was wondering has anyone ever seen the > video's > Vans puts out like the empanage video? Is it worth the money. Is it a > big > help? > Does anyone have any for sale? > Beth Higgins > Massachusetts > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Mark, I bought a tail kit from a guy that was about 2yrs. old. The covering on the spar channels took over an hour to remove. It will only come off in small small small sections. The covering on flat pieces was much easier to remove, but still more difficult than when new. Steve Nichols RV-4 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: How do you get the wheels apart?
Steve, It has gotta be just stuck paint holding them together... Rver273sb ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Unit Conversion Calculator
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Not directly related to RVs, however about 9 months ago, someone pointed out a neat self contained Unit Conversion Calculator that you could down load and place on your computers desktop. Does anyone have the link to that download? Thanks Ed Anderson eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Video from Vans
Beth: If you are referring to the George and Becky Orndorff videos, in my opinion the answer is by all means get them. They are very helpful, particularly in the early stages while you are gaining confidence. Mine disappeared in a move from VA to CA or I'd offer them to you. Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net>
Subject: RV8 engine selection: maybe IO-360-M1A (not F1A)
I recently posted a message suggesting that the new parallel valve, fuel injected, forward facing tuned induction 180 horsepower IO-360 may be the best Lycoming engine for an RV-8. It turns out that this new model designation is IO-360-M1A, not F1A. Hopefully, the rest if the info is correct. I haven't heard what Lycoming is going to charge for it but Van's should know. Sorry for any confusion. Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: All Electric
I have installed a B&C alternator & B&C Starter and the units are worth every penny of their cost.......great units & greate factory support & great Elect Bob support on the B&C items. If you are planning a dual elect. system as mentioned then use B&C products & Elect. Bobs diagrams (buy his book) if for any other reason........... 1. after market support 2. quality of product nhunger(at)sprint.ca on 09/28/99 05:17:51 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: All Electric > >Has anyone considered placed an all electric panel with 2 batteries and > >two alternators? > > > >Any thoughts on this? > > Yes, this is one of the standard "Electric Bob Official Electrical System > Configurations." It makes sense and can be done fairly easily these days. > B&C makes a very nice line of dynamos/alternators that mount on the vacuum > pump pad. > Me too. The second alternator is made by B&C Specialty Products 316-283-8000. They have two models that mount on the vacume pump pad. 8 amps for $410 20 amps for $685 They sell gobs of other stuff, ask for a catalog. To hook everything up Electric Bob offers complete instructions and other widgets. I don't have my engine yet but I am 99% convinced that this is the way to go for my IFR cross country ship. When I do start buying all of this stuff I plan on getting as much stuff as possible from Bob and the alternator from B&C. Bob is ever so worthy of support as he constantly dedicates his expertise to help kitbuilders of all persuasions. Even demented ones building airplanes out of the same material as porta-potties. What a guy and truly an real expert with mega years of experience. On the other hand I am a complete amateur enjoying kitbuilding as a truly wonderful yet very serious hobby. Kind of liking this internet listing thing too. Regards, Norman Hunger Delta, BC, RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Hardware Information
Hi all... Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; How to tell if hardware is "AN" What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. Things like that... Thanks in advance... -Bill Von Dane RV-8A empennage bvondane(at)atmel.com http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Mark Van's original plastic covering was white and can be a real bear to remove with age. Heck it was a real bear to remove on the fresh new parts. I have had no problem removing the clear vinyl from 3 year old parts. I would suggest just trimming the vinyl along the rivet lines and leaving the rest on until ready for flight. Of course you would want to remove the vinyl on the inside before riveting components together. I remember a post of a couple of years ago where the gentleman worked late into the evening and riveted his H-stab together. In the morning he found he had forgot to remove the plastic. ARG! He sure learned how to drill out rivets. How are the flaps going? Have you got your ailerons done? Inquiring minds want to know. Gary Zilik RV-6A Pine Junction, CO mark delano wrote: > > How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > I assume it will become difficult to remove as it does on old > acrylic sheet. > > Mark Delano > Littleton CO, > Flaps 6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: "Ray Richardson Jr." <sales(at)powersportaviation.com>
Subject: Re: MFD Displays
> >Hey listers, > >I want to get an opinion pole here (oh no). I am going to put an MFD display >in my Rocket. what is even remotely affordable. So, unless I am missing something, is >there such a thing out there that is affordable? >Somebody has to have some info that can point me in the right direction. > >Thanks! > >Scott > Check-out Powersport's web site. They have been working on their engine display for their RV6A they wrote their own software to run their engine test dino stand Powersport's 10.4" screen display is .5" thick, running with a 350 pentium. They also have GPS in a 3D terrain projection, 12 channel pick-up. gives ground speed, elevation, rate of climb, ect. You can download the engine screens for your personal preview. The weather will be added soon and other flight info. >click here links WWW.Powersportaviation.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
BILL, LOOK AT BROWN TOOL SUPPLY FOR DRILL SIZES. BILL BRUTON RV-8QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: MD-42-BS
I know it too late now, but take some tape & label a rivet ( a real rivet) and throw it back in the bin. If the external maskingtape labels ever age peal away, or your 3 year old neice mixes em up to be helpfull (Don't ask how I know this) , you can allways identify the rivet(s). Another trick ....superglue a wooden match on to a countersunk rivet face..this way wou can eyeball the countersink cuts you make and see if the cut is deep enough with your handy super-glued-matchstick-rivet depth gauge. rv8er(at)home.com on 09/28/99 02:31:17 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: MD-42-BS Can someone tell me what one of these pop rivets look like? I understand it is a steel rivet, and I have some aluminum countersunk, long reach rivets that are in this bin. confused.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Installation sequence: RV-8 landing gear boxes
Date: Sep 29, 1999
I'd like feedback from anyone with actual experience on installing the RV-8 landing gear boxes: The builder's manual states the sequence as: clecoe WD-822 and landing => gear box assemblies inside the fuselage, then rivet WD-822 to F-820pp fuselage skin, then rivet box assemblies to fuselage skin, then reinstall cross braces and floor stiffeners, then rivet and clecoe floor angles to floor, then rivet F-802A and F-802B bulkheads to WD-822. Because of space constraints inside the fuselage, it looks like it would be much easier to rivet the F-802A and f-802B bulkheads to WD-822 before clecoing both into the fuselage, rather than as the very last step. Having "dry run" this assembly several times without riveting, it doesn't seem that there could be any alignment issues from doing it this way. What am I missing? George Kilishek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Installation sequence: RV-8 landing gear boxes
Date: Sep 29, 1999
> Because of space constraints inside the fuselage, it looks like it would > be much easier to rivet the F-802A and f-802B bulkheads to WD-822 before > clecoing both into the fuselage, rather than as the very last step. > Having "dry run" this assembly several times without riveting, it > doesn't seem that there could be any alignment issues from doing it this > way. Be really careful that the 822 fits tight against the bulkheads in the whole area that gets riveted together, especially near the flange of the bulkheads. Otherwise, when you rivet the 822 to the bulkheads, the flanges of the bulkheads won't line up well with the holes in the skin. I had to bend the 822 a bit to get it to match up to the bulkhead while in assembly. Once I was happy with that, I riveted the gearbox subassemblies together on the bench. It worked for me, and was probably MUCH easier than riveting it in the plane. Good luck, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Date: Sep 29, 1999
As other posters have observed in the past, a little heat from a heat gun or hair drier will aid in the removal. Marty in Brentwood Tn, Right wing RV6. -----Original Message----- From: steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com <steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com> Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 11:34 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Simple Question > >Mark, > I bought a tail kit from a guy that was about 2yrs. old. The covering on >the spar channels took over an hour to remove. It will only come off in small >small small sections. The covering on flat pieces was much easier to remove, but >still more difficult than when new. > > > Steve Nichols > RV-4 wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: AeroSport engine
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Listers: Just wanted to report I received my Aero Sport 0-360 today (10 months in the making, but I deferred it due to Bart's backlog of other customers.. I was in no big rush). As promised it's certainly a masterpiece in appearance and very professionally packaged coming in a bullet proof crate with shrink wrap, desiccants, lots of documentation and manuals and sundry parts for installation. Now need to buckle down and get this machine finished. Doing business with Bart and Sue was a pleasure. Again, I highly recommend them. Doug =========== Doug Weiler, RV-4 canopy in progress Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
The back couple of pages of the Avery catalog is quite useful. > >Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; > >How to tell if hardware is "AN" >What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. >Things like that... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Bill, There is a little 5"x8" book put out by ATP that is an A&P's working helper that is exactly what you are looking for. I don't have mine here with me so I don't remember exactly what the name of the book is but maybe someone else will know. It is available wherever aviation books are sold and every aircraft mechanic knows what it is. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB mounting tail feathers In a message dated Wed, 29 Sep 1999 4:22:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bill Von Dane writes: > > Hi all... > > Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; > > How to tell if hardware is "AN" > What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. > Things like that... > > Thanks in advance... > > -Bill Von Dane > RV-8A empennage > bvondane(at)atmel.com > http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A good idea on securing cowl pins??
Paul: I will be running the Copperstate Dash. If I do not turn around and fly to Edward's, you can see and take photos at Copperstate. I can take a screwdriver out of my tool kit and remove one for your inspection. If I do not see you at Copperstate, I will take a photo, develop, scan it, and e-mail it to you in *.jpg format. Gary --- Paul Besing wrote: > > > Any chance in getting a picture of this, Gary? I > will post it on my website > if you could email one..it is kind of hard to > picture it... > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 12:58 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: A good idea on securing cowl > pins?? > > > > > > >--- Glenn & Judi wrote: > >> > >> > >> I'm looking an August 1995 article entitled "More > on > >> Cowl Pins" on p. 96 > >> of the book entitled "16 years of the RV-ator". > The > >> first figure > >> depicts used of a single eyelet of hinge to > secure > >> the cowl half pin at > >> the 90 degree bend at the end. > >> > >> I don't know if this is a new idea or not, but > why > >> not flip the hinge > >> eyelet over so that the bend in the pin sits > within > >> a slot cut into the > >> side of the cowl? This installation would be > more > >> flush than the > >> original recommendation and certainly more > >> aesthetically pleasing. A > >> little bit of material would have to be removed > >> forward of the slot so > >> the pin could be pulled forward for removal once > >> it's rotated 90 degrees > >> out of the slot. The slot cut into the cowl > >> wouldn't crack because the > >> area would be backed up by an aluminum > reinforcement > >> which is needed > >> anyway for the nut plate. > >> > >> Does anyone have any ideas why this wouldn't > work? > >> > >> - Glenn Gordon (RV-6) > >> (Fitting cowl) > > > >Glenn: > > > >I used a tear drop shaped piece of 0.040 2024-0 > >aluminum "bumped" to fit the cowl with the hinge > eye > >rivited to it. I did grind down into the > fiberglass > >so that it sits flush on the cowl. I have two # 8 > >countersunk screws securing the tear drop aluminum > to > >the cowl. One screw on the upper and one on the > >lower. This way the aluminum hopefully helps hold > the > >cowl together and the pin from breaking and > extending > >into the propeller. Did not use any reinforcement > on > >the nutplate to fiberglass. > > > >After 430+ flying hours, it has worked great. > There > >are several RV-4's flying around with the cowl the > >same way. I "stole" the idea from them. > > > > > >==== > >Gary A. Sobek > >"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > >So. CA, USA Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: Simple Question[removing plastic before riviting]
Date: Sep 29, 1999
>trimming the vinyl along the rivet lines and leaving the rest on until ready for >flight. Run a hot soldering iron about 1/4 each side of the rivet holes. This allows you to peal a strip of plastic off. Do not use a sharp instrument or you will score the aluminum sheet. Use this procedure only on alum. only, not plastic! Derek Reed 6A Grants Pass OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: albertp(at)mail.smartchat.net.au
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6 Heat Selector Box
I have my heat selector box installed in the lower right firewall(I figured that heat rises)and piped the heat from the crossover exhaust pipes in the front. Works well in Tasmanian winters although they are mild compared to your winters. regards albert poon rv6 40hrs tasmania oz. Randy J. Pflanzer wrote: > > I asked this question of Van's staff at Oshkosh a few years ago when I was > there. Bill Benedict suggested using the small heat box (triangular in > shape with a flap-like door) mounted on the right side of the firewall up > high. I placed mine centered in the upper triangle formed by the firewall > reinforcement angles on the right side. This placed it close to the heat > muff (mine only fit on the right exhaust). It vents directly into the > cabin. I didn't use any kind of plenum. I've been told that this will work > just fine. I'm not flying yet (but close) so I should be able to try it out > during the cold Indiana winters soon. > > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 > "Painting" > > -----Original Message----- > From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> > To: RV List > Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 5:10 PM > Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Heat Selector Box > > > > >Hi, > >I would like to hear from other RV-6 builders as to the firewall > >mounting location of their heat selector box. I can't find space for it > >low, as the engine mount interferes with it. I can't mount it centered > >on the firewall due to the battery box and firewall recess. Any > >suggestions? If it's mounted off center, how can the heat be > >distributed to the pilot & passenger before it rises up under the panel? > > > >Thanks, > >Glenn Gordon > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: 1998 RV-6 For Sale
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Posting for a friend not on the RV-List ======================snip===================== FOR SALE 1998 RV-6 85HRS TT ENGINE IO-360-B4A TUNED INTAKE TUNED EXHAUST 4:1 10.25 : 1 HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS 200HP+ 130HRS SMOH PROP, HARTZEL C/S AIRSPEED,ATTITUDE IND,ALT,ELEC T/B,DG,VS KINGKY97A,KINGKT76A,ENCODER,GARMIN3 GPS,INTERCOM HEADSETS,STROBES,LANDING LIGHTS,NAV LIGHTS, ELECTRIC FLAPS,SLIDING CANOPY INVERTED FUEL READY FOR INVERTED OIL,5 POINT HOOKER HARNESS 'G' METER SHOWS VERY WELL $74.000.00 US =========================snip====================== RV-6 was built and owned by Dave Kukura, Sarnia Ont Dave can be reached at flyme(at)rivernet.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-8 flap questions
Okay, so I should't trust all Van's dimensions....... anyway, worked on the FL406 A, B & C brackets per drawing dimensions. Went to the garage to install them on the flap and the %$$ !#$**% flange of the FL404 rib (the one mounting against the spar) is shorter than expected. With ole Van's dim's I do not have the neccesary edge distance from the top and bottom. Sideways is fine. Also, the -4 rivet heads holding the FL406-a (?) to the spar and the rib ended up closer to the curve in the angle than I would like but I can live with that. What is the minimum distance between two -4 rivets. I want to set 2 extra rivets in the flange as close as possible to the two outboard ones without edge clearance. Whilst I am on the subject, does the 406-a get mounted to the spar with all -4 rivets, in which case I would have to rivet the FL404 rib with it at the same time. Anyway, time to quit grinding alu..... Thanks Gert p.s. where are the rainy cloud with thunder and the skull & crossbones keys on my keyboard -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Question[removing plastic before riviting]
Bought a cheap soldering iron from the Shack and ground the end spherical. works great and does not score the alu. Gert Derek Reed wrote: > > > >trimming the vinyl along the rivet lines and leaving the rest on until > ready for > >flight. > > Run a hot soldering iron about 1/4 each side of the rivet holes. This allows > you to peal a strip of plastic off. > Do not use a sharp instrument or you will score the aluminum sheet. > Use this procedure only on alum. only, not plastic! > > Derek Reed 6A Grants Pass OR > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Subject: Hi Temp Engine Compartment Securing and Insulating Page
Hello Listers: Last night I posted a message about Hi Temp Cable Ties for use in the engine compartment. There was a very positive reaction to the new product and several inquiries about other product. Thank you. I've put up a new page featuring high temp securing and insulating (from abrasion) product on one new page, Hi Temp Insulating and Securing Page or it can be found at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page61.html Regards, John @AAMR?AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Re: 200HP in RV6A
Date: Sep 29, 1999
---------- > From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: 200HP in RV6A > Date: Monday, September 27, 1999 12:53 PM > > > I am planing on putting a 200 HP Lycoming engine in my RV6A. I presently > have a 180. Does anyone know what I will have to change about the Some things to consider on selecting a I0360 or a 0360 for the RV6A. Maximum continuous power for these engines is 75% and 65 to 70% is probably a more realistic setting for the good of the engine. 75% of 200 HP is 150 and 135 for the 180 HP a difference of 15 HP. 65% of 200 HP is 130 and 117 for the 180 HP a difference of 13 HP If we were to run the 0360 at 70% we would have 126 HP and running the I0360 at 65% is 130 or only 4 HP difference. The I0360 is 34.25 inches wide and the 0360 is 33.37 inches wide. The I0360 is approx. 35 lbs. heavier depending on the model. The I0360 requires more oil cooling than the 0360 due to the squirting of oil on the bottom of the pistons. A friend of mine spent hundreds of dollars trying to lower the oil temperature in a RV4 installation and never got it below 210 in cruise. This is probably not a fair comparison. Cost is a big factor, with the I0360 costing several thousand dollars more when buying new engines. Also requires a high pressure fuel pump that will cost several hundred dollars more. The I0360 also tends to be harder to start under certain conditions. I guess one has to think about what do we want the extra power for. If we fly the engines at recommended power settings the difference really dosen't justify the disadvantages. One can fly the 0360 at full power for short periods if needed without hurting it. Van considers the 180 HP engine max for the RV 6's and I tend to listen to him. Just my own thoughts Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay RV 6 flying and working on a 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: NEED AVERY C-FRAME
Date: Sep 29, 1999
Jason, I can't find where I put your shipping address! I'm really sorry I haven't shipped it yet. Please give me again (and cc to randall(at)edt.com) and I'll ship it out tomorrow (Thursday). Sorry! Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Heat Selector Box
Date: Sep 29, 1999
>I would like to hear from other RV-6 builders as to the firewall >mounting location of their heat selector box The middle of the recess is a good place if you can fit it in there. With the governor in there I couldn't make it work, but it may be do-able. If you don't have a C/S prop then it should work fine. I put mine low on the pilot's side. The heat muff is on the pilot's side and the scat tube goes up and over the crossbar in the engine mount, then down into the heat muff which is the triangular one. I expect the passenger may have cold feet in the winter; I may try to do some sort of baffling and/or ducting to direct some over there, don't know yet. One thing to keep in mind is the orientation of the box with attention to which direction the hot air will be coming into the cabin. My arrangement aims the air down at the floor on purpose; you wouldn't want the hot air to be pointed up under the instrument panel for example. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Date: Sep 29, 1999
>>Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; >> >>How to tell if hardware is "AN" >>What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. >>Things like that... Don't know about downloading this stuff. I recommend getting some books. Van's manual has some of it, and the Bingelis series, and the Standard Aircraft Handbook. You really ought to have these references anyway if you're building a plane (IMHO). Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: O-320/Jeff Rose ignition quizz
Several months ago I installed a Jeff Rose electronic ignition in place of my right mag. It seemed to run well with ground run-ups. On the downwind leg the engine started running very roughly. Switching the electronic off and running only on the left mag made no difference. I had never been totally happy with my carb and had Flightcraft rebuild it. The mechanic claimed that the retaining clip for the metal float had been installed incorrectly and would allow the float valve stick open. Everything seemed to work fine. After the Scappoose fly-in I decided to put some high altitude time on my new ignition and check out the ignition retard it was suppose to deliver. After 1 1/2 hrs of flying I needed fuel. I filled up and taking off I had the same violently rough engine about a minute after lift-off, neither ignition, left or right made any difference. I landed and even on final appr. the engine seemed to have smoothed out. On the ground I couldn't get it to fail and thought perhaps some lead had fouled the automotive plugs I was running on the lower cylinders, (.050 gap). I took off again only to repeat the situation (my heart doesn't stop now however!). I landed and left the plane overnight. The next morning I removed the plugs but they were all clean. I suspected this was heat related and flew the plane home at low settings with no problems. I tore down the engine, reamed the exhaust valve guides and put it back together. I couldn't point a finger at Jeff Rose but reinstalled the Slick right mag (both 450hrs since new) again. Things ran again as they had always. We took trips to Ohio, Reno, LA, the San Juans, never even a skip. I did notice occasionally a change in the exhaust pitch, ever so slight. On these trips I have found that flying at 10,500' and leaning to peak, that is back off a 1/2 notch (with the Van's red mixture knob) from where it first begins to drop rpm, gives good gas mileage, up to 6.9 gal/hr. My EI egt/cht shows typically a range of 1240 - 1330, 340 degrees cht, 19 1/2" man., and 2450 rpm., 140 kts indicated (usually 165mph groundspeed). So maybe I did have a sticking exhaust valve, although most said they stick when it is cold, not hot. I started running aeroshell W 100 Plus just in case. So, with all of my planned trips over, I reinstalled the Rose ignition again, this time running the extended electrode aviation plugs on the lower points (REM something BY's maybe?, gapped .035) rather than automotive plugs. Ground run-up was fine, take-off OK, downwind no problems. I orbited for several minutes, no problems, so left TTD airspace and climbed to 6,000'. The ignition timing was working perfectly. I have the manifold pressure advance on a switch and all the right numbers were showing up on the advance timing gauge. Shutting the left mag off would cause a slight rpm drop. The electronic ignition was producing a spark at 24.9 degrees advance with the throttle wide open. Next I shut off the Rose. There it is again. Not violent, but definite rough running. My EGT showed #3 cyl was losing temp. fast, it was at 900 degrees and dropping when the others were in the 1100's. Switching the electronic ignition back on made things run smoothly again, and the EGT got back in line with the others. (fuel pump, carb heat, mixture, no effect) I repeated this several times with similar results. I landed, pulled plugs and no fouling. So, a bad plug perhaps? #3 upper happens to be a brand new plug, although, yes, it still could be failing when it heats up. A bad harness wire? The harness is old but does check out OK with the high voltage tester. A bad distributer cap. Perhaps, I haven't checked that yet. One plug could have been missing all along, even before the ignition change, I shall admit to occasionally hearing a slight rumble in my exhaust when running two mags and thinking that my engine didn't run as smoothly as it used to. These are of the level where you think you sense them but no one else seems to. It seems to me that the electronic ignition is changing the environment in my engine somehow. The spark advance is reported to provide a more complete burn and thus increase the CHT's while lowering the EGT's. During my flight I leaned towards the rich side but noticed EGT's at one point higher than I have seen with my engine, 1440 degrees, which isn't abnormally high, but with both mags I tend to see perhaps 1380 degrees max. at sea level. Originally I was experiencing both the electronic and mag failing so was forced to look at systems common to them both (valves, carb, fuel). Had I run the plane longer today perhaps I could have made both ignition systems fail, I don't really know. Temps were mild today, 70's. When the mags were failing today EGT's were in the 1200's, I wasn't even at full throttle. I'm really not coming up with any great solutions. The coincidence that I developed sticking exhaust valves at the exact time I installed the electronic ignition was always questionable. I'm afraid I have to suspect the ignition system. George O. recommends the aviation plugs gapped .035. No one else seems to have these problems. When examining the plugs before installing the Rose system, I would have said that the plugs tended to be on the rich burning side, despite typically leaning to peak. I had drilled out the main jet a drill size 2 years ago when experiencing rough running after the new one-piece venturi was installed. An engineer at Precision said there should not be a problem with that, mixture settings could override that modification. Tomorrow I will replace #3 upper (mag) plug, check the distr. cap, and see what changes occur. I may attempt some serious climb-outs and see if the lower airspeeds produce new results. I'm starting to earn that title "test pilot" that I had humorously embroidered on my "Lane Aviation" shirt! If someone has some enlightened ideas I'm open, believe me. Please though, no "dump some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas", been there...... kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Simple Question
In a message dated 9/29/1999 1:02:28 PM Tokyo Standard Time, mdelano(at)mho.net writes: > How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > I would take it off the inside of the skins before drilling so that the fit dosent shift after it is removed. Scratches on the inside won't make any difference. Dave Leonard 6QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: all rv flyers
having a fly in at the pineville municapal airport on oct. 23.would like a lot of rv aircraft to come.for information call terry myers at 318-448-3934.pineville la. you can e-mail him at tmyers(at)speedgate.net please try to come. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Greg Booze <macbooze(at)ior.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Fairing
RV-8 Builders, I'm trying to attach the aileron gap fairing to the aft wing spar and top skin. The problem is trying to lay the gap fairing flange flush to the aft wing spar. Both ends of the fairing (inboard & outboard) "ramp up" onto the aft spar aileron mounts and reinforcement plates. I've looked through the archives and there is nothing that addresses this problem. The plans do not show any details altering the gap fairing on DWG 13. Has anyone encountered this same problem? Thanks, Greg - (Ready to close wings) Rathdrum, ID. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Adrian Chick" <adrianchick(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Unit Conversion Calculator
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Try this. I don't know if it's the same one you're referring to, but I've got a convert program and this is the link listed in the help section. http://www.joshmadison.com/software/ ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 10:56 AM Subject: RV-List: Unit Conversion Calculator > > Not directly related to RVs, however about 9 months ago, someone pointed out > a neat self contained Unit Conversion Calculator that you could down load > and place on your computers desktop. > > Does anyone have the link to that download? > > Thanks > > Ed Anderson > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Date: Sep 30, 1999
The book I think Mike is referring to is the Standard Aircraft Handbook put out by TAB Aero. I got mine from Avery Tools, order # 8306, page 70 in their current catalogue, $12.00. I use it all the time. Fran Malczynski RV6 (fuselage floor panels) Olcott, NY -----Original Message----- From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 8:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hardware Information > >Bill, > >There is a little 5"x8" book put out by ATP that is an A&P's working helper that is exactly what you are looking for. I don't have mine here with me so I don't remember exactly what the name of the book is but maybe someone else will know. It is available wherever aviation books are sold and every aircraft mechanic knows what it is. > >Mike Robertson >RV-8A QB mounting tail feathers > >In a message dated Wed, 29 Sep 1999 4:22:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bill Von Dane writes: > >> >> Hi all... >> >> Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; >> >> How to tell if hardware is "AN" >> What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. >> Things like that... >> >> Thanks in advance... >> >> -Bill Von Dane >> RV-8A empennage >> bvondane(at)atmel.com >> http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: New Wings? 76,79-87,89-98,100-107,109-115
SCOTT WELL PUT. BILL JUST LEFT TO BOS THAN TO BNA TOM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com>
Subject: Static Air Ports
Date: Sep 30, 1999
I'm in the process of trying to decide which static ports to use on my very smooth "backrivited" -8A fuselage, Van's pop rivet, or the Cleveland machined ports that I have. The pop approach seems less obstructive, but the machined ports look so good, although they protrude from the skins. Anyone had the same dilemma ?? Doug Gardner -8A fuselage 80717 Tampa Bay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Familiarization flights (and insurance effects)
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Randy Pflanzer has recently asked about familiarization flights (right seat) in a -6 before he takes that magical (high adrenaline!) step with his own plane. Randy - there's one (admittedly more costly) alternative that can give you even more value - go fly with Mike (or Jerry)! Kathy and I had the good fortune to be able to set up a session with Mike Seager back in March to fly Van's -6A. It was well worth every penny, to us, to be able to fly LEFT seat and even LAND (multiple times)! The opportunity to actually feel the approach, flare, and touchdown before needing to do it on my own has made a huge difference in my confidence level for approaching that first flight. The other potential advantage that flying with Mike has is that it can make a pretty substantial difference in what insurance will cost, especially for the first year or two of flying. A caveat here, though - we spent time with Mike to get comfortable with the airplane and get the feel of landing, but did not have a specific target for flight hours in the session. Turns out that Kathy got about 3 hrs, I got 4, in a couple days. We then talked to insurance companies about coverage for our first flights. The leading candidate for getting the coverage that we want at a reasonable price is SkySmith - but they want 5 hours of dual instruction. Never mind that Mike said we're ready, 5 is the magic number. After much knashing of teeth, scuffing of toes, and general frustration, I grabbed an opportunity to get back to Portland and get another hour of instruction. The moral of the story - if you have a chance, get your insurance quote(s) BEFORE you get your training, and make sure you spend enough time to satisfy the insurance company, as well as yourself and Mike. The silver lining to this trip, though, was that we've got Mike S. busy enough that he's enlisted some help with the training chores. I got to fly with Jerry Van Grunsven for that last hour! He's every bit as capable as Mike, but brings an airline pilot's perspective (talk about respect for procedures!) to the job. The combination of flying with BOTH of these guys is wonderful! (as a side comment - Jerry and I were obviously discussing insurance companies while we were doing this. The Catch-22 in the entire situation is that when he went to the insurance industry for CFI liability insurance, they gave him static about "We can't insure you for teaching in an EXPERIMENTAL!", even though those very same companies are giving US a hard time about "You have to have dual training in type before we'll cover you". Go figure... (I think they finally worked out a solution.)) Personally, I'm just glad that Van, Jerry, and Mike care enough about this that they're helping to forge a new trail through this jungle for all of us. Having people better prepared for flying their airplanes can't help but be a positive influence on the entire industry/community. Randy P. - good luck getting whatever familiarization you decide on. Sounds like we get to see you change the tag line from "painting" to "flying" pretty soon! Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q), doing the glass work and looking forward to moving to the airport soon! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey.Hawkins(at)ChoicePointInc.com
Subject: Re: Installation sequence: RV-8 landing gear boxes
Date: Sep 30, 1999
09/30/99 09:22:20 AM Hi George, I came to the same conclusion and riveted the assembly on the bench. When I drilled all these parts I made sure the alignment was correct. I then riveted the WD-822/F-802A/F-802B assemblies on the bench. It is a very tight fit getting the boxes into the fuselage but this is exactly what I wanted. I have not problems with the alignment either. I have believe it is mush easier to rivet these approx. 80 rivets on the bench then in the airplane. Jeff Hawkins Alpharetta, Georgia RV-8 Fuselage stuff I'd like feedback from anyone with actual experience on installing the RV-8 landing gear boxes: The builder's manual states the sequence as: clecoe WD-822 and landing => gear box assemblies inside the fuselage, then rivet WD-822 to F-820pp fuselage skin, then rivet box assemblies to fuselage skin, then reinstall cross braces and floor stiffeners, then rivet and clecoe floor angles to floor, then rivet F-802A and F-802B bulkheads to WD-822. Because of space constraints inside the fuselage, it looks like it would be much easier to rivet the F-802A and f-802B bulkheads to WD-822 before clecoing both into the fuselage, rather than as the very last step. Having "dry run" this assembly several times without riveting, it doesn't seem that there could be any alignment issues from doing it this way. What am I missing? George Kilishek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: O-320/Jeff Rose ignition quizz
> > Several months ago I installed a Jeff Rose electronic ignition in place of >my right mag. It seemed to run well with ground run-ups. On the downwind >leg the engine started running very roughly. I may attempt some >serious climb-outs and see if the lower airspeeds produce new results. I'm >starting to earn that title "test pilot" that I had humorously embroidered >on my "Lane Aviation" shirt! > If someone has some enlightened ideas I'm open, believe me. Please >though, no "dump some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas", been there...... >kevin Have you talked to Jeff about this? Given that he's sold many hundreds of these systems, it's possible that he's run across this phenomenon before. Even so, he may have some suggestions. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: COZY: Re: Alternator Questions
>Note that all (or nearly all) automotive and maybe aircraft alternators on Lycomings (and maybe more) use a backward to normal >rotation thread on the nut holding the fan and pulley on. This means the pull of the belt will be in the direction to unscrew >the nut. Use good locktite on the nut. Requires some heat and >maybe a impact wrench to get off. B&C uses Locktite #271 (red) on their alternator pulley nuts and installs the nut with an impact wrench. In thousands of installations, inadvertent nut loosening has never been an issue. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Fuel tank dimple die question
Listers, Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on the skins. Charlie Kuss RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Bill , I would suggest you download the FAA AC 41.13-1b from http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/ Ed Cole also offered this and several other very useful publications on CD for $10. I purchased one and feel it was money well spent. Charlie Kuss RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming Boca Raton, Fl. > > Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; > > How to tell if hardware is "AN" > What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. > Things like that... > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Unit Conversion Calculator
Ed , Check out http://hotfiles.zdnet.com/cgi-bin/texis/swlib/hotfiles/info.html?fcode=000HUT&b the name of the program is called CONVERT (Madison) It's free and very easy to use. Charlie Kuss RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming Boca Raton, Fl. Not directly related to RVs, however about 9 months ago, someone pointed out > a neat self contained Unit Conversion Calculator that you could down load > and place on your computers desktop. > > Does anyone have the link to that download? > > Thanks > > Ed Anderson > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Question
VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 9/29/1999 1:02:28 PM Tokyo Standard Time, mdelano(at)mho.net > writes: > > > How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > > > > I would take it off the inside of the skins before drilling so that the fit > dosent shift after it is removed. Scratches on the inside won't make any > difference. Actually, scratches on the outside won't make any difference, either. :-) When you get ready to paint, you will either etch or ScotchBrite the skins along with priming, and scratches become a non issue. Main reason to keep the skins shiny is to impress other builders. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, all scratches now totally hidden by paint) "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey.Hawkins(at)ChoicePointInc.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
Date: Sep 30, 1999
09/30/99 10:31:33 AM Hi Charlie, I used the Cleveland tank dies on both the ribs and skins. I highly recommend them; they worked great! -Jeff Hawkins Alpharetta, Georgia RV-8 Fuselage stuff Charlie Kuss (at)matronics.com on 09/30/99 10:11:27 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank dimple die question Listers, Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on the skins. Charlie Kuss RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: RV-6A Tow bar
OK all you of the 'A' team, how are you moving these things backwards. I have a RV-6A to get in and out of a tight hanger and all it wants to do when I push it backward is lock the front wheel in a turn. How can I fix a tow bar to the front wheel? Any plans or pictures out there? Royce Craven Melbourne Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christensen, Peter" <pchristensen(at)sel.com>
Subject: RV-8 flap questions
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Gert, I worked on these about a month ago, but I'm at work and I really need to look at the drawings and my own flaps to answer your question. I will do so and respond to you off-line. But I will say in public that the order in which to rivet the various flap bracket pieces is critical, and you can easily get yourself into a jam. There is a recommended sequence given in an old RVator article that was reprinted in the "18 Years of RVator" book (which has been very helpful, BTW). But even with that I wound up having to use pop rivets where I didn't really want to because I riveted myself into a corner. The flap riveting instructions is one place I agree with that thread that ran a while ago about the instructions. In fact, they don't even mention the top skins of the flaps at all! Anyway, I had the same problems you did, but I just don't remember what I did, so I will check and respond back off line. Peter Christensen RV-6A Wings Pittsburgh, PA but moving AGAIN! (Arrgh -- more delays) > > Okay, so I should't trust all Van's dimensions....... > > anyway, worked on the FL406 A, B & C brackets per drawing dimensions. > > Went to the garage to install them on the flap and the %$$ !#$**% > flange of the FL404 rib (the one mounting against the spar) is shorter > than expected. > With ole Van's dim's I do not have the neccesary edge distance from the > top and bottom. Sideways is fine. Also, the -4 rivet heads holding the > FL406-a (?) to the spar and the rib ended up closer to the curve in the > angle than I would like but I can live with that. > > What is the minimum distance between two -4 rivets. I want to set 2 > extra rivets in the flange as close as possible to the two outboard ones > without edge clearance. > > Whilst I am on the subject, does the 406-a get mounted to the spar with > all -4 rivets, in which case I would have to rivet the FL404 rib with it > at the same time. > > Anyway, time to quit grinding alu..... > > Thanks > > Gert > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Can you rely on the shackle on the top of the engine to support the weight of the engine when you lift it? If not, where else do you recommend that an engine installer attach ropes, etc while maneuvering the engine into position on the engine mount? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
about ed coles cd , i've paid for it 2 months ago, after several inquires , and several broken promises, i still haven't recieved it ( ed if this is harsh i'm sorry, but it's the truth) scott tampa fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Lebanon Fly-In - Sam James Workshop
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
For anyone interested, Sam will be conducting a workshop on fiberglass starting at 9-9:30 on Saturday. He says this will be an abreviated program of about three hours. There will also be seminars on Panel Wiring(Michael Link, Homebuilt certication paper work(Ed Hasch), and Steve Davis may be sharing some ideas on panel layout. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Fairing
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> I'm trying to attach the aileron gap fairing to the aft wing spar > and top skin. The problem is trying to lay the gap fairing flange flush > to the aft wing spar. Both ends of the fairing (inboard & outboard) > "ramp up" onto the aft spar aileron mounts and reinforcement plates. > I've looked through the archives and there is nothing that addresses > this problem. The plans do not show any details altering the gap fairing > on DWG 13. > Has anyone encountered this same problem? > > Thanks, > Greg - (Ready to close wings) > Rathdrum, ID. Greg, You need to cut notches in the fairing and allow them to step up onto the doublers. My plans are not in front of me, but I believe there are some dotted line depictions on the plans. Maybe not, but just measure carefully and cut the corners out. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, fuselage www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Static Air Ports
Date: Sep 30, 1999
I have the static ports from Cleveland..a much nicer, simpler installation IMHO.. They really don't protrude from the skin..they flush if you rivet them from the inside.they are pretty cheap too...check out the installation on my website.. http://members.home.net/rv8er/Pitot/static.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Gardner, Douglas (GA01) <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 12:56 PM Subject: RV-List: Static Air Ports > > >I'm in the process of trying to decide which static ports to use on my >very smooth "backrivited" -8A fuselage, Van's pop rivet, or the Cleveland >machined ports that I have. The pop approach seems less obstructive, but the > >machined ports look so good, although they protrude from the skins. > >Anyone had the same dilemma ?? >Doug Gardner -8A fuselage 80717 >Tampa Bay > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: O-320/Jeff Rose ignition quizz
In a message dated 9/30/99 0:17:28, n3773(at)mciworld.com writes: << If someone has some enlightened ideas I'm open, believe me. Please though, no "dump some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas", been there...... kevin >> I suggest you call Jeff Rose. He should be able to enlighten you a little on expected changes in egt, cht, etc. The only thing I saw in your treatise which caught my eye was the .050 gap on the plugs initially. Is this a Typo? I seem to recall .035 as teh gap for the EIS plugs D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Yes you can. I had lifted mine with a hydraulic hoist with a chain. No problems whatsoever...there is a picture of this at: http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 3:19 PM Subject: RV-List: How do you hoist a Lycoming? > >Can you rely on the shackle on the top of the engine to support the weight >of the engine when you lift it? If not, where else do you recommend that an >engine installer attach ropes, etc while maneuvering the engine into >position on the engine mount? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A Tow bar
In a message dated 9/30/99 9:02:08, roycec(at)ozemail.com.au writes: OK all you of the 'A' team, how are you moving these things backwards. I have a RV-6A to get in and out of a tight hanger and all it wants to do when I push it backward is lock the front wheel in a turn. How can I fix a tow bar to the front wheel? Any plans or pictures out there? >> I am glad you asked. I have been trying to convince Geo Orndorff to carry such a device but he refuses because he says there is a readily available one from Chief (and others) I think it is called Cessna Deluxe, but don't remember. Meanwhile if it is on asphalt or concrete (friction is important) you can learn to carefully push backward on the prop and watch the nosewheel angle to steer. It is a real challenge but most have mastered it. If you are trying this on grass, ice or snow, it just won't work. If your friction is less than 23 lbs it is much more difficult. At fly in s where you got to manuever on grass and ruts or sand (SNF) it is totally impossible. I'm sure Becki will chime in and tell us the proper tow bar or better still that she is going to sell one for us. D Walsh Perosnally i have only run into hangar things four or five times while pushing and watching the nose gear. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: wantE- 0-320
I want to buy a o-320. I am in Oregon anyone know of one? E-mail wpaerial(at)aol.com thankyou, Jerry Wilken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Yes, Steve, that's what that lifting eye is for and it works fine. Jim H. RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: MD-42-BS
> >Can someone tell me what one of these pop rivets look like? Me too. I could find nothing about MD-42-BS pop rivets anywhere except Van's catalog. Since these are in critical locations such as elevator control rods, I wanted to be *CERTAIN* that I was using the right rivet so I ordered some more. I hope they sent the right ones. When I got my kit I bought several partitioned plastic storage boxes and emptied the baggies into them putting common parts in common locations but I didn't label them. Next time I'll..... I hate the little drawers for parts as they are too slow. I hate boxes with movable partitions too as they always rise up mixing everything. I have a box for rivets, pop rivets, screws, small or short bolts, drill bits and tools, sockets and small wrenches etc. It works! I put obviously different parts in the same bin if there isn't much to go in that bin. Such as 5/16 bolts both drilled and undrilled or 3/16 by one inch and two inch. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a at SCK - Tedious details Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Landing lights, alternatives?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> << and there was a > Jodel there with two of these lights mounted in the air intakes of the cowl. > Looked really good and would be dead simple to install. I don't know how > the cooling would be affected though. I thought they were a good idea, I > have seen them on cars and they are really bright. >> > Having them mounted in the air intakes could be made to work in your favor. > Some folks like to open up the exaust area and have the cowl with the smaller > round holes > instead. Having the lights mounted in the intakes would effectively allow > less air to flow thru, just like having the round, smaller holes, I would > think. > I've looked into the cowling with the smaller round holes for cooling air intake. They are made and offered for sale by Sam James in Florida. They allow 35 square inches of air to enter the cowl compared to 52 square inches for a Vans cowl. These smaller holes are perfectly round just like a Lancair. The reason that they allegedly work with this reduced area is that they are connected to a cooling plenum that cowls the top of the engine. This is made from a composite that is designed to take the heat and attached with baffles that the builder has to make. This cooling plenum is said to be more efficient than the top of cowl Vans/Cessna method of cooling with high pressure air. The plenum takes the air that is rushing in and curves it down into the engine. It's main objective is to keep the air together and flowing down into the fins with out becoming turbulent. It gracefully expands the air after it enters through the inlets. Van recommends builders to ramp the inside of the factory cowl for this reason. The Vans/Cessna method of engine cooling requires more intake air because the air that arrives inside the cowl is very turbulent. So is the "Holy Cowl" but much less so. There have been studies of this aerodynamic feature by a university with a NASA grant. The objective is to reduce drag. The original designer of Sam's cowl is Steve Barnard and he used these studies to create what Sam calls the "Holy Cowl". Sam says any RV will go faster with one of these new cowls. Sam's mailout has some information about these studies. Unfortunately he doesn't have a website. He also sells a huge wing/root fairing and pressure recovery mainwheel pants. It costs a bunch more but there are claims of weight savings over even the "S" cowl from Vans. Sam says that he will build it out of any material the buyer specifies and most are strong enough to use Camlocks all the way around. Last time I talked to Sam was about three months ago and he had sold fourteen of these cowls to RV builders since he bought the rights back in December. He makes composite parts for other kitplane manufactures as well. Both Tracy Saylor and Dave Anders have built extremely fast RV's with small round cowl inlets. I have received my finishing kit without a cowl so that I can do one of these new technology cowls. I don't have to commit for about another year yet though as I have not finished my fuselage kit. I will continue to monitor the progress of this company and make my final decision only when I have to. To get back to the original post, I wouldn't think it would be a very good idea to put one of those nifty little lights into the air inlet area of that expensive noisy thing that we rely on for our well-being. They would definitely create turbulent air in the cooling plenum. They would also suffer a loss of light from having the prop blades passing in front of them. The most light you can put in front of you will be from the leading edges or the wingtips. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: "Ray Richardson Jr." <sales(at)powersportaviation.com>
Subject: 200HP in RV6A
> >> Peter >> Powersportaviation is installing their 210 hp rotary engine in their almost completed RV6A, However their engine is lighter than the Lycoming. When Allen Tohl had finished testing the powersport rotary in his RV3 and reinstalled his 180hp. Lycoming engine, his plane gained 50 lbs, and lost 15 mph top speed. Yes, Van's does not "recommend" 200 HP for the RV6, but we believe those reasons are for weight concerns, more than the higher horsepower. Powersport is more concerned about exceeding VNE during straight and level. The 210 hp. will certainly improve take-off performance, but the small frontal area and reduced drag from water cooling will give us added top speed, and a higher cruse speed from less power expended. Visit Powersport's Web at WWW.Powersportaviation.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Steve, That is exactly what the hook is for. The hook is also the CG of the engine as it comes out of the box. One word of caution, do not hoist the airframe/engine combo using this hook. Gary Zilik RV-6A - The light at the end of the tunnel is getting very bright. Pine Junction, CO "Stephen J. Soule" wrote: > > Can you rely on the shackle on the top of the engine to support the weight > of the engine when you lift it? If not, where else do you recommend that an > engine installer attach ropes, etc while maneuvering the engine into > position on the engine mount? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, Vermont > RV-6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Navaid autopilot and electric trim
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> > Jerry: I had a Navaid autopilot in my last RV-6, in regard to the question > you had about ail trim and autopilot. I had a manual trim that used a > bungee spring to the control and an Navaid also to the column. They did > not seem to cause any problem. I would trim out the manual trim first, and > then use the autopilot trim as fuel was burned off. And occasionally when > you could see the auto pilot was working hard to stay in trim I would turn > off autopilot and re trim the manual. I plan on using the manual trim in my > new RV. I think the electric trim would even be a better option. Hope this > helps. > Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB- Wing stuff Can the Navaid autopilot trim feature be wired to run off the left/right of a coolie hat stick grip switch? Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: aircraft paint
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> What type of paint system is typically used on light aircraft? Single > or Two Stage? > Single stage (color paint is the final paint) > or two stage (color paint is base covered by clear coat) > > I haven't bought the book on aircraft painting yet, I was just curious. Two stage is easier to get that perfect finish as the clear coat can be wet sanded and polished. All those little imperfections, dust specs, and runs can be removed after painting. Single stage metallic must be left untouched once applied. What you see is what you get. Very tough to apply. Cannot be done to show quality without a real spraybooth. Must have air moving past surface being painted to get good results. Cannot be wet sanded and can only be slightly cut polished when finished. If you take out a run you will see a difference in the paint there. If you cut polish you will ruin the look of the paint. If you leave it alone it will look "alive". Single stage solid colors can be wet sanded and polished for great results. Single stage will be lighter. Always ask your paint supplier these questions. I painted a car 1 1/2 years ago with a Sherwin Williams Sunfire single stage metallic to teach myself about painting. I learnt to pay some one else to do my painting. The actual paint looks fantastic still though. It has that super glossy wet look. It only cracked above the left rear tire from different problem that the car has. I had asked the dealer for the best single stage paint when they sold me the Sunfire. Not cheap. Regards, Norman Hunger Delta, BC. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> > Hi all... > > Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; > > How to tell if hardware is "AN" Bill: Sadly, one thing you have to watch out for these days is counterfeit AN hardware. This stuff is junk, but is marked to look like AN. Your only defence against it is to buy from a reputable vendor, such as Aircraft Spruce. Avoid anyone who looks fly-by-night. Not to upset the car racers (I was one myself) but I'd avoid any vendor that advertises in the racing mags, unless you can confirm that they have steps in place to ensure that their AN hardware is genuine. Suspect anyone who's offering a price conspicuously below the reputable vendors! Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC -6 tail http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: MD-42-BS
The MD-42-BS rivet is a domed head monel rivet with a steel mandral...Size is .125(1/8) inch in dia and a grip range of .062-.125 ...# 30 drill hole size... usually called by the trade name "POP RIVET" made by USM Fastener Company...Jim Brown, NJ ,flying RV3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Static Air Ports
Doug: had the same problem in deciding what to do, I opted for the pop rivit, still have the Cleveland Machined ports. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
Norm and others, I, too, wanted to use Sam's Cowl, but found out from Sam that it will *not* work with a carburetor - only fuel injection. It seems that there is not enough room between the motor and cowl to turn the air 90 degrees for the vertical draft carbs. You can, however, install Sam's plenum kit and circular inlets on Van's cowl with a little fiberglass work. Sam's plenum and inlets will cost you about $450, if I recall, in addition to the cost of the cowl. I've opted to go back to Van's stuff. Chris Browne -6A finish Atlanta Reorderng Van's cowl Norman Hunger wrote: > ... > > I've looked into the cowling with the smaller round holes for cooling air > intake. They are made and offered for sale by Sam James in Florida. They > allow 35 square inches of air to enter the cowl compared to 52 square inches > for a Vans cowl. These smaller holes are perfectly round just like a > Lancair. ... > > I have received my finishing kit without a cowl so that I can do one of > these new technology cowls. ... > > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC > > . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
THAT'S IT!!! In a message dated Thu, 30 Sep 1999 7:43:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Fran Malczynski" writes: > > The book I think Mike is referring to is the Standard Aircraft Handbook put > out by TAB Aero. I got mine from Avery Tools, order # 8306, page 70 in their > current catalogue, $12.00. I use it all the time. > > Fran Malczynski > RV6 (fuselage floor panels) > Olcott, NY > -----Original Message----- > From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 8:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hardware Information > > > > > >Bill, > > > >There is a little 5"x8" book put out by ATP that is an A&P's working helper > that is exactly what you are looking for. I don't have mine here with me so > I don't remember exactly what the name of the book is but maybe someone else > will know. It is available wherever aviation books are sold and every > aircraft mechanic knows what it is. > > > >Mike Robertson > >RV-8A QB mounting tail feathers > > > >In a message dated Wed, 29 Sep 1999 4:22:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bill > Von Dane writes: > > > >> > >> Hi all... > >> > >> Does anyone know where I can download information on things like; > >> > >> How to tell if hardware is "AN" > >> What size drill for specific size rivets, bolts, etc. > >> Things like that... > >> > >> Thanks in advance... > >> > >> -Bill Von Dane > >> RV-8A empennage > >> bvondane(at)atmel.com > >> http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid autopilot and electric trim
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Unless you can figure out a way to internally wire it to the Navaid, then no. There is no ports on the wire plug for the trim. (I wish) Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 5:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid autopilot and electric trim > >> >> Jerry: I had a Navaid autopilot in my last RV-6, in regard to the >question >> you had about ail trim and autopilot. I had a manual trim that used a >> bungee spring to the control and an Navaid also to the column. They did >> not seem to cause any problem. I would trim out the manual trim first, >and >> then use the autopilot trim as fuel was burned off. And occasionally when >> you could see the auto pilot was working hard to stay in trim I would turn >> off autopilot and re trim the manual. I plan on using the manual trim in >my >> new RV. I think the electric trim would even be a better option. Hope >this >> helps. >> Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB- Wing stuff > > >Can the Navaid autopilot trim feature be wired to run off the left/right of >a coolie hat stick grip switch? > >Norman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Connectors
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Forgot who asked this a bit ago, but I have in the past purchased electrical connectors from John at AAMRELECTR. Quality and selection was great and the order was shipped very quickly. matter of fact, I looked high and low for mil-spec ring terminals for #8 wire. Finally found that John had them IN STOCK! I think he gives the listers a discount on their first order, so if you're anywhere near the wiring portion, you may want to check him out. Try this page: http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Al ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Good point Chris. I have been planning from the beggining to use an Airflow Performance fuel injection kit on a new O-360 A1A. I thought about modifying Van's cowl to Sam's inlets and plenum but decided not to want to get involved in advanced fiberglass work. Another reason favoring Sam's cowl is weight. He claims it is significantly lighter. I don't have any proof though. Anybody else able to add something here? Norman > Norm and others, > > I, too, wanted to use Sam's Cowl, but found out from Sam that it will *not* work > with a carburetor - only fuel injection. It seems that there is not enough room > between the motor and cowl to turn the air 90 degrees for the vertical draft > carbs. You can, however, install Sam's plenum kit and circular inlets on Van's > cowl with a little fiberglass work. Sam's plenum and inlets will cost you about > $450, if I recall, in addition to the cost of the cowl. I've opted to go back > to Van's stuff. > > Chris Browne > -6A finish > Atlanta > Reorderng Van's cowl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marc Guay" <marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Hi Stephen, You sure can rely on that shackle. On my installation (RV-6A) not only did I use this shackle to mount the engine but when came time to install the wings I used it to lift the whole aircraft. No problems at all. I Have a picture if you are interested. Cheers Marc Guay RV-6A Ottawa Canada Flying 120hours+ >From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Rv-List (E-mail)" >Subject: RV-List: How do you hoist a Lycoming? >Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:14:37 -0400 > > >Can you rely on the shackle on the top of the engine to support the weight >of the engine when you lift it? If not, where else do you recommend that >an >engine installer attach ropes, etc while maneuvering the engine into >position on the engine mount? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Abrasive media honing
Does anybody know who does abrasive media honing BESIDES Extrude Hone. I've checked their pricing and it is VERY expensive. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Gear and flex
>I'm having a severe shimmy problem at about 20 mph, and am checking into >different causes...... One area which is a possible contributor: dragging brakes. You can have brakes that drag little enough you don't even notice it while pushing the airplane around, except to hear a little 'scrape scrape'. It doesn't take much to set the gear into a vibratory mode. The pulsing scrape may mean you have a brake that drags on a certain part of the disk. Look at your linings: if there is uneven wear (one end is more worn than the other) you may be dragging. Have someone watch the wheel pants as you push the airplane and see if it moves ANY. Do it forward and backwards, slowly. A slight occasional (rhythmic as in vibratory) shake could mean you have a dragger. As you taxi, the wheel drags and releases, drags and releases: a vibration. Why does the shimmy happen just at a certain speed? That is the speed at which the pulses are spaced evenly enough to cause the vibration. Have someone watch as you taxi: is it just one gear that is the problem or do they both go? One gear: could be a dragger. How to cure that? A certain amount of dragginess is normal for the Cleveland brakes; it should be an even scrape as you move the wheel. The first item is to make sure you have the right length return springs on your master cylinders (see the archives). Also, make sure your brake pucks move freely and evenly in the calipers. Just another thing to worry about........... Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: O-320/Jeff Rose ignition quizz
n3773 wrote: snip > > on my "Lane Aviation" shirt! > If someone has some enlightened ideas I'm open, believe me. Please > though, no "dump some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas", been there...... > kevin > Can you borrow a set of plug wires off a known good engine? I had similar rough-running problems after changing my prop, random times & either mag. Blamed almost everything, had an IA check the entire ignition system including wires with a HV tester. All checked good. Tried new points, condensers, 1 new plug, etc. Finally ordered new harness (had been my 1st guess, because it 'looked old'). Problem solved, for me. Charlie flying -4, O320/160 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
In a message dated 9/30/99 2:09:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cebrowne(at)earthlink.net writes: << I, too, wanted to use Sam's Cowl, but found out from Sam that it will *not* work with a carburetor - only fuel injection. >> I too used Sam's Cowl with a carburetor. I did not realise it had this problem until it was here and I started to fit it. He suggested that I just buy a $4000 fuel injection, but I had a very good friend who is not allergiec to epoxy ( I am ) that chopped the air intake off and faired it back like a Van's cowl and used Van's air intake system. It was a lot of work, but it looks good and Tracy Saylor uses a cowl that is similar to this set up with a carb engine and gets very good results. If enough of you guys bug Sam to make a cowl for carb engines he probably would make a mold for this combo. Bernie Kerr,6A about to get on gear, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TMB1564(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Sam James Cowl
To those who may be interested I have a Sam James cowl (less metal inlets) and O320 plenum. $800. If interested please contact me off line at tmb1564(at)aol.com. Regards - Tom Benton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Static Air Ports
In a message dated 9/30/99 6:09:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com writes: << the machined ports look so good, although they protrude from the skins. >> Just draw file them down surrounded by the same thickness scrap aluminum sheet as the skin. Carefully deburr and then install them. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Montana Builders ??
Mel: I fly up to Hamilton, Mt. (Ravalli Co), at least once a year to visit my parents who live near Darby. There are several RV builders/flyers on that field. Look up Hans Schiewzer, (probably spelled wrong), last time I was up there there were a couple of 6's flying and an 8 under construction. A nice bunch of guys too. Walt RV-6A N79WH 210hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Fairing
Greg Booze wrote: > > > RV-8 Builders, > > I'm trying to attach the aileron gap fairing to the aft wing spar > and top skin. The problem is trying to lay the gap fairing flange flush > to the aft wing spar. Both ends of the fairing (inboard & outboard) > "ramp up" onto the aft spar aileron mounts and reinforcement plates. > I've looked through the archives and there is nothing that addresses > this problem. The plans do not show any details altering the gap fairing > on DWG 13. > Has anyone encountered this same problem? > > Thanks, > Greg - (Ready to close wings) > Rathdrum, ID. > Greg, I,m building a -6, but it does the same thing. I trimmed the seal to fit around the brackets and cut a slit in the seal where it meets the reinforcing plate(like is done on the flap brace). Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuse ships next week. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
Charlie Kuss wrote: > > > Listers, > Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any > particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies > on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on > the skins. > Charlie Kuss > RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming > > Boca Raton, Fl. > Charlie, I used the dies on both the ribs and skins. No leaks!! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce B. Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: Re: Static Air Ports
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From what DJ at Cleaveland Tools told me they should be ten thousands past the skin surface. Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas ----- Original Message ----- From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 4:20 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Air Ports > > In a message dated 9/30/99 6:09:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com writes: > > << the > > machined ports look so good, although they protrude from the skins. >> > > Just draw file them down surrounded by the same thickness scrap aluminum > sheet as the skin. Carefully deburr and then install them. > > -GV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Noise while building
To all who answered my question about noise while building: thank you very much!!!! Sorry about the delay in answering, between the minor SNAFU in the list program and my travel (had to go to Tampa for an airports conference...rough life, but someone's gotta do it), I was out of pocket and couldn't post a timely answer. I'm even more encouraged by your answers and I'll be looking for a few more excuses to look at some RV-6s before making the all-but-inevitable decision. Is anyone going to the Thomasville, GA fly-in the weekend of October 9? If so, I'm trying to con a fellow EAA chapter member into going down there on Saturday, and if a member on the list will have their winged creation there, I'd like to look at it, drool on it, and photograph it. Semper Fi John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: MAC Position Sensor
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Has anyone installed a MAC position sensor on the electric flaps of the -6(a)? If so, how did you do it, what did you hook it to, etc, etc, Thanks.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Howard Walrath" <H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-6A Tow bar
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Bogert Aviation (509) 736-1513, BOGIBAR(at)aol.com http://maxpages.com/maxpage.cgi/bogertaviation makes a very good and strong tow bar that fits on the ends of the nose wheel axle nuts with a spring clamp. It is very secure and can overcome the tendancy of the nose wheel to caster when pushed backwards. They make a number of other aviation products. I bought this to replace a flimsy one that fit into the two Allen Head bolts. It worked OK for towing but lacked the strength to control the nose wheel when going backwards. The Bogi-Bar solved the problem. Their part number for the RV-6A Bogi-Bar is 4-RV6A. It sells for $69.00 Howard Walrath RV-6A 116 hours -----Original Message----- From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com <BumFlyer(at)aol.com> Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 11:09 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Tow bar > > >In a message dated 9/30/99 9:02:08, roycec(at)ozemail.com.au writes: > > >OK all you of the 'A' team, how are you moving these things backwards. > >I have a RV-6A to get in and out of a tight hanger and all it wants to do >when I push it backward is lock the front wheel in a turn. > >How can I fix a tow bar to the front wheel? >Any plans or pictures out there? > >> > >I am glad you asked. I have been trying to convince Geo Orndorff to carry >such a device but he refuses because he says there is a readily available one >from Chief (and others) I think it is called Cessna Deluxe, but don't >remember. > >Meanwhile if it is on asphalt or concrete (friction is important) you can >learn to carefully push backward on the prop and watch the nosewheel angle to >steer. It is a real challenge but most have mastered it. If you are trying >this on grass, ice or snow, it just won't work. If your friction is less >than 23 lbs it is much more difficult. At fly in s where you got to >manuever on grass and ruts or sand (SNF) it is totally impossible. > >I'm sure Becki will chime in and tell us the proper tow bar or better still >that she is going to sell one for us. > >D Walsh > >Perosnally i have only run into hangar things four or five times while >pushing and watching the nose gear. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Charlie, I used the tank dies from Cleaveland Tools, but they are the same as the Avery dies. Strongly recommend using them. If you do, you must use them to dimple both the skin and the rib. The idea is to have a little deeper dimple (.007 inch or so) to allow for a thin film of proseal under the rivet head. Using regular dies you can end up with the rivet heads slightly high. Carl Froehlich RV-8A fuselage Vienna, VA >Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank dimple die question >Sent: 10/4/19 10:23 AM >Received: 9/30/99 6:15 PM >From: Charlie Kuss, chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net >Reply-To: RV-List, rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV-List, rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >Listers, > Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any >particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies >on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on >the skins. >Charlie Kuss >RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming > >Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Marc Guay wrote: > > You sure can rely on that shackle. On my installation (RV-6A) not only did I > use this shackle to mount the engine but when came time to install the wings > I used it to lift the whole aircraft. No problems at all. In my previous post I mentioned that the engine hook should not be used to hoist the entire front section of the airframe. There is a good reason for this. Lycoming installed the hook for lifting the engine, the engine only. Take a look at that wimpy little case and you can see that if Murphy is helping in the shop the hooks the single case bolt will rip out of the top of the crankcase. On the up side it sure would be easy to put oil in. I am sure lots of planes have been picked up using the engine hook, but not mine. To much to risk. > I Have a picture > if you are interested. Cheers Nope, It would give me the willies Gary Zilik RV-6A Pine Junction, CO > > > Marc Guay > RV-6A Ottawa > Canada Flying 120hours+ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: 200HP in RV6A
"Ray Richardson Jr." wrote: > Powersportaviation is installing their 210 hp rotary engine in their almost > completed RV6A, However their engine is lighter than the Lycoming. Ray, Is that 210hp at the engine or at the prop? How efficient is your PSRU? If we assume 15% loss in the PSRU, then 210hp at the engine becomes about 180hp at the prop. The engine would of course still be lighter than the Lyc, and have a smaller frontal area, and (I guess) therefore a more streamlined cowl. Frank. -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: str(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
Charlie I used the regular dimple die that is used for the rest of the airplane to do my fuel tanks and had no problems whatsoever. I think some guys use them because they've heard, or experienced, problems with the rivets not sitting flush with the skin, or maybe they are concerned about leaks around the rivets. I didn't have any of these problems. If you make the dimples deeper than normal and the rivets are flush with the skin, then it only stands to reason you will have proseal between the bottom of the flush head and the skin. Instead, it seems you would want to have the bottom of the flush head contacting the skin for strength- proseal is a sealant not a weight bearing component. The seal is on the inside of the tank, between the rib and the skin, not on the outside. If you end up with too much proseal in the dimple, so the rivet won't sit flush, use a popsicle stick with a 100 degree "v" sanded on the end to clean it out. My rivets are all flush and the balloon was still *fully* inflated the next morning when I leak tested the tank overnight. Regards, Sam > > > Listers, > Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any > particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies > on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on > the skins. > Charlie Kuss > RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming > > Boca Raton, Fl. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Sam James Cowl
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Attention fellow listers, this is a good deal! Norman > To those who may be interested I have a Sam James cowl (less metal inlets) > and O320 plenum. $800. If interested please contact me off line at > tmb1564(at)aol.com. > > Regards - Tom Benton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A Tow bar
Chief Aircraft sells the "Deluxe Cessna Towbar" for $38.50. Their phone number is 800-447-3408. This hooks on the axle nut on theh nose wheel - right where the axle bolt goes through the wheel pan. This has worked great for us in many different situations. George and Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Tow bar
Date: Oct 01, 1999
I'm pretty sure any Cessna tow bar will work. I found an old one at a local FBO that they gave me for free. It required some slight straightening, bead blasting (the same FBO let me use their machine, it pays to take all of your business to one place) and then paint. It's collapsible, only weighs a couple of pounds, and fits right on the axle bolt. Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96 ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/ > I have a RV-6A to get in and out of a tight hanger and all it wants to do > when I push it backward is lock the front wheel in a turn. > > How can I fix a tow bar to the front wheel? > Any plans or pictures out there? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
Charlie I used the tank dimple dies on my tank. The one problem I ran into is that my stiffeners and ribs no longer were flush with the skin when i dry tested them after dimpeling. It appeared that the widest part of the dimple crater had a slightly different angle on the outside than on the inside. (hard to explain) Didn't matter if they were c-frame pounded or hand squeezed. Nothing the deburring tool couldn't handle once I found the cause. Gert Charlie Kuss wrote: > > > Listers, > Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any > particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank dies > on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies on > the skins. > Charlie Kuss > RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for priming > > Boca Raton, Fl. > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donnelly.d(at)mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Date: Sep 25, 1999
I think #2 is your only option. You will have the canopy on and off several times fitting the side skins, so it is much easier to use temporary rivets separate from the final 3" spacing. -----Original Message----- From: JFW9855(at)aol.com <JFW9855(at)aol.com> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 4:58 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance > >My aileron also has an eighth of an inch clearance. It fits fine in the >female airfoil template and aligns with the trailing edge of the flap >perfectly. I was suprised that it was so close but I looked at other planes >at OSH and posted a query to the RV list and seems that this is normal. Now >I have to find a place to store the right wing while I start the left wing. >Any suggestions? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com>
Subject: Landing lights, alternatives?
Date: Sep 30, 1999
> >I've looked into the cowling with the smaller round holes for >cooling air intake. They are made and offered for sale by >Sam James in Florida.... >Both Tracy Saylor and Dave Anders have built extremely >fast RV's with small round cowl inlets. I'm working on my cowl right now, mostly modeled after Tracy Saylor's setup. I've fitted Van's original cowl (not the "S" type), and started installing my engine baffles. I have the smaller round aluminum inlets in hand, and have fabricated the inlet->plenum pieces out of fiberglass on molds I borrowed from Tracy. I'm creating an aluminum plenum, so far I've only had to buy some "T" aluminum to go down the engine spine. I have been able to use most of the baffle kit from Van's. I believe Tracy has estimated this setup adds 8-10 mph for free free free. Sam James's son William sells some aluminum inlets. Tracy originally had made his own round inlets out of fiberglass, and then just recently installed some slightly smaller diameter aluminum inlets from Dave Anders, and his cooling *increased* by about 20 degrees! These are the inlets I purchased. Dave has a few sets of them from time to time, and is not really in the business to make money. The aluminum pipe need to mill these inlets out of are amazingly expensive, so he does a few sets of them whenever he gets enough pipe scraps collected. I'll let everyone know how it turns out when I get flying, and also how many hours of "extra" work I think it took when all is said and done. Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA 727MF (reserved) RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators http://www.skybound.com/BARV http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Sam James Cowl on carubureted O-360 RV6A (Question)
Date: Oct 01, 1999
The note below got me to thinking and the following questions came up. I am in MUCH need of help ... so I wonder if (and HOPE) there is an answer out there ... BACKGROUND I currently own Van's original cowl (and am about to sell it) and Van's new cowl. I saw Sam James' cowl and SnF and saw that it would not work "as is" for the carbureted engine. I suggested to his son Will that I thought the O-360 carbureted combo could POTENTIALLY be the biggest seller if they did it. I have purchased Sam's plenum and Will's (metal) circular inlets. The goal is to make this all work on my RV6A with Van's new cowl ... ***BUT*** if there is a better way (to have an installation **with** the circular inlets and the plenum on a carbureted O-360, someone please help me by telling me now as I may be cutting cowls in a month or two!!! So ... THE QUESTION 1. Has **anyone** out there in RV-land completed the installation of: a) the "Sam James" circular inlets *and* plenum on an b) O-360 that is c) carbureted using either d1) Van's original cowl OR d2) Van's new cowl OR d3) Sam James' cowl ?????? If so please contact me off list with your experiences. I hope to MINIMIZE the additional work, even if it means buying Tom's cowl mentioned below and selling BOTH of my current cowls. Thanks a gazillion!! James RV6A-Q ... will this sliding canopy EVER be done??????? ----- Original Message ----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James Cowl > > Attention fellow listers, this is a good deal! > Norman > > > To those who may be interested I have a Sam James cowl (less metal inlets) > > and O320 plenum. $800. If interested please contact me off line at > > tmb1564(at)aol.com. > > > > Regards - Tom Benton > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: MAC Position Sensor
In a message dated 9/30/99 3:28:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com writes: << Has anyone installed a MAC position sensor on the electric flaps of the -6(a)? If so, how did you do it, what did you hook it to, etc, etc, >> Yes, I did. I used the 1.2" throw one and the info is in the archives. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Questions
Date: Sep 30, 1999
What are your thoughts: 1. Nav. and Strop Lights - Is Whelen better than Aeroflash? Is it worth the extra money to buy Whelen lighting? 2. Is the difference between 180 hp and 200hp in an RV8 worth the extra money? How much performance difference is there? Rich Crosley RV8 - wings and gas tank and proseal and deburring and dimpling and riviting and then the left wing............... Palmdale, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Questions
Date: Oct 01, 1999
I can only answer #1.. Aeroflash strobes are not as bright, but they were bright enough to be on Cessnas until 1987 (I think thats the year) When the FAA increased the brightness requirements. They are STC'd/TSO'd for replacement on those models before the change. Since I don't have any trouble seeing the planes manufactured before 1987(?) I decided to go with the Aeroflash for half the price. Not to mention, the dual power supplies are small enough to fit in the wings, keeping the high voltage out there and away from any antennaes, etc. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Rich Crosley <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> Date: Friday, October 01, 1999 6:21 AM Subject: RV-List: Questions > >What are your thoughts: > > 1. Nav. and Strop Lights - Is Whelen better than Aeroflash? Is it >worth the extra money to buy Whelen lighting? > > 2. Is the difference between 180 hp and 200hp in an RV8 worth the >extra money? How much performance difference is there? > > >Rich Crosley RV8 - wings and gas tank and proseal and deburring and dimpling >and riviting and then the left wing............... >Palmdale, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)iac.honeywell.com>
Subject: Static Air Ports
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Hi Paul Thanks for you reply, Did you enlarge the hole w/ Unibit ?? Doug Gardner -----Original Message----- From: Paul Besing [mailto:rv8er(at)home.com] Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 4:30 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Air Ports I have the static ports from Cleveland..a much nicer, simpler installation IMHO.. They really don't protrude from the skin..they flush if you rivet them from the inside.they are pretty cheap too...check out the installation on my website.. http://members.home.net/rv8er/Pitot/static.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Gardner, Douglas (GA01) <Douglas.Gardner(at)IAC.honeywell.com> Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 12:56 PM Subject: RV-List: Static Air Ports > > >I'm in the process of trying to decide which static ports to use on my >very smooth "backrivited" -8A fuselage, Van's pop rivet, or the Cleveland >machined ports that I have. The pop approach seems less obstructive, but the > >machined ports look so good, although they protrude from the skins. > >Anyone had the same dilemma ?? >Doug Gardner -8A fuselage 80717 >Tampa Bay > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Simple Question
Hi, please use a key word in your title section se we all could search it ( from the archives ) in the future....like vinal aluimun skins....or some such nonsense..... I think the problem is with the OLD stuff Vans used to cover the aluminum. The newer blue/semi-clear stuff dosen't have a problem coming off. For whats its worth no mater how careful there are going to MANY accumulated nicks, scratches,bumps,dings & whatever on things like the engine mount, skins ect.......I am a recovering anal-retentive type who has learned that that no mater how careful there will be some bruising of the aluminum When the project goes to the airport there is even more.........the point being... who cares- pull the vinal off, work the metal, prime it & go on to the next part.......don't get wrapped around the axil on trivial things like this........I did/do & my project finish date was much extended........Just a comment & not ment to spam/slam sbuc(at)traveller.com on 09/30/99 10:29:26 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Simple Question VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 9/29/1999 1:02:28 PM Tokyo Standard Time, mdelano(at)mho.net > writes: > > > How long can the vinyl be left on aluminum skins? > > > > I would take it off the inside of the skins before drilling so that the fit > dosent shift after it is removed. Scratches on the inside won't make any > difference. Actually, scratches on the outside won't make any difference, either. :-) When you get ready to paint, you will either etch or ScotchBrite the skins along with priming, and scratches become a non issue. Main reason to keep the skins shiny is to impress other builders. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, all scratches now totally hidden by paint) "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 200HP in RV6A
Somewhat depends on the PSRU but as I recall it is more like 5%. Gears are especially efficient. hal > >If we assume 15% loss in the PSRU, then 210hp at the engine becomes >about 180hp at the prop. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Amazing, I ordered mine and he didn't even want money until he was sure he could deliver it. I had it in two weeks, before I sent the check. Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com about ed coles cd , i've paid for it 2 months ago, after several inquires , and several broken promises, i still haven't recieved it ( ed if this is harsh i'm sorry, but it's the truth) scott tampa fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Landing lights, alternatives?
The round smaller holes are a effort in drag reduction coupled with the pressure plenimum (doghouse) cooling box that Sam James & Roy Loupressi & Mooney have developed........ not so much as to reduce the air input volume.......... nhunger(at)sprint.ca on 09/30/99 12:25:28 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing lights, alternatives? > << and there was a > Jodel there with two of these lights mounted in the air intakes of the cowl. > Looked really good and would be dead simple to install. I don't know how > the cooling would be affected though. I thought they were a good idea, I > have seen them on cars and they are really bright. >> > Having them mounted in the air intakes could be made to work in your favor. > Some folks like to open up the exaust area and have the cowl with the smaller > round holes > instead. Having the lights mounted in the intakes would effectively allow > less air to flow thru, just like having the round, smaller holes, I would > think. > I've looked into the cowling with the smaller round holes for cooling air intake. They are made and offered for sale by Sam James in Florida. They allow 35 square inches of air to enter the cowl compared to 52 square inches for a Vans cowl. These smaller holes are perfectly round just like a Lancair. The reason that they allegedly work with this reduced area is that they are connected to a cooling plenum that cowls the top of the engine. This is made from a composite that is designed to take the heat and attached with baffles that the builder has to make. This cooling plenum is said to be more efficient than the top of cowl Vans/Cessna method of cooling with high pressure air. The plenum takes the air that is rushing in and curves it down into the engine. It's main objective is to keep the air together and flowing down into the fins with out becoming turbulent. It gracefully expands the air after it enters through the inlets. Van recommends builders to ramp the inside of the factory cowl for this reason. The Vans/Cessna method of engine cooling requires more intake air because the air that arrives inside the cowl is very turbulent. So is the "Holy Cowl" but much less so. There have been studies of this aerodynamic feature by a university with a NASA grant. The objective is to reduce drag. The original designer of Sam's cowl is Steve Barnard and he used these studies to create what Sam calls the "Holy Cowl". Sam says any RV will go faster with one of these new cowls. Sam's mailout has some information about these studies. Unfortunately he doesn't have a website. He also sells a huge wing/root fairing and pressure recovery mainwheel pants. It costs a bunch more but there are claims of weight savings over even the "S" cowl from Vans. Sam says that he will build it out of any material the buyer specifies and most are strong enough to use Camlocks all the way around. Last time I talked to Sam was about three months ago and he had sold fourteen of these cowls to RV builders since he bought the rights back in December. He makes composite parts for other kitplane manufactures as well. Both Tracy Saylor and Dave Anders have built extremely fast RV's with small round cowl inlets. I have received my finishing kit without a cowl so that I can do one of these new technology cowls. I don't have to commit for about another year yet though as I have not finished my fuselage kit. I will continue to monitor the progress of this company and make my final decision only when I have to. To get back to the original post, I wouldn't think it would be a very good idea to put one of those nifty little lights into the air inlet area of that expensive noisy thing that we rely on for our well-being. They would definitely create turbulent air in the cooling plenum. They would also suffer a loss of light from having the prop blades passing in front of them. The most light you can put in front of you will be from the leading edges or the wingtips. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Sam James Cowl
Tom, In case I haven't been clear, I WANT THE COWL FOR $500. Just to make sure there is no misunderstanding. If you will give me your address I'll send you a check today and we can take care of the shipping arrangements later and I'll pay for that too. Thanks....AL Mojzisik AL Mojzisik 7188 Hollandia Dr. Westerville, Ohio 43081-9319 (614) 890-6301 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: KEN(at)atfi.com (ken)
unsubscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel tank dimple die question
I didn't use these to do my tanks, but I did think that you used them on the ribs, and regular dies on the skin to solve the problem you mention below. Cecil Hatfiled > >Charlie > >I used the tank dimple dies on my tank. >The one problem I ran into is that my stiffeners and ribs no longer >were >flush with the skin when i dry tested them after dimpeling. > >It appeared that the widest part of the dimple crater had a slightly >different angle on the outside than on the inside. (hard to explain) >Didn't matter if they were c-frame pounded or hand squeezed. > >Nothing the deburring tool couldn't handle once I found the cause. > >Gert > >Charlie Kuss wrote: >> >> >> Listers, >> Does anyone who has used the Avery fuel tank dimple dies have any >> particular recommendations for best results? Did you use the tank >dies >> on the ribs and skins? Or only on the ribs, using the regular dies >on >> the skins. >> Charlie Kuss >> RV-8 inverted fuel tank details/ prepping leading edge parts for >priming >> >> Boca Raton, Fl. >> > >-- >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, >any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address >is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 >US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA
Gentlemen, I received this from Jim Huntington of LRI when I forwarded him some mail that was posted to the RV-list a few days ago. I thought it interesting and informative. It was originally sent to an RVer with some questions about the LRI instrument. AL >I wanted to respond to your question concerning these two AOA systems. Of >course, I am far from impartial in this matter. I consider our system >without doubt to be the best AOA system available on the market for general >aviation. Let me state some of the reasons why I feel this is the case. > >I am not going to argue the value of angle of attack because I think that >anyone who looks at the AOA/airspeed question will agree that the >information provided by angle of attack instrumentation is astonishing and >that, likewise, the airspeed indicator at slow speeds is inherently unsafe. > >1) The Lift Reserve Indicator does something that no other angle of attack >device has ever done - indicate sufficient lift for rotation and take off. >All readouts, of course, are density altitude correct. Thus this insures >the shortest possible runway and also ensures that regardless of altitude >of runway or OAT the aircraft has sufficient lift to rotate and climbout. >Maintaining the needle (analog gauge) at the red/white juncture will >provide Vx for existing conditions. Vx is also the red/white juncture of >the LED gauges. > >2) The Lift Reserve Indicator offers three different indicators - a) >analog, b) 2 1/4" round LED, c) a light bar strip. Both LED gauges offer >identical features. The difference is only in the configuration of lights >for various installation requirements. > >3) The LRI analog gauge displays information in a very interesting way. >The needle is dynamic. The movement of the needle conveys lift trends that >appeals to many, many pilots. > >4) The LRI system does not piggyback on the pitot static system. It is >entirely independent. You may recall a while back that the RV line carried >a discussion about the variability's of the static system and the location >of the static source. There is one VG installer that has told us that >there has not been a single static system that he has tested that has been >accurate, over 2,000 systems. He was testing certified aircraft only, but >his point is well worth considering. > >5) Since the LRI analog system is a completely stand-alone system, it then >functions as a back up or failsafe instrument. This was well demonstrated >at Goldenstate last month when the power to the tents went out for the >afternoon. The LRI was still working. We have had several people inform >us that the LRI got them out of a difficulty when the airspeed indicator >went down or panel power was lost. It makes all the work worthwhile. > >6) Neither the analog system nor the LED system depends on micro circuitry >located on different parts of the aircraft for various inputs. All the LRI >needs is relatively undisturbed air for the probe. > >7) The LRI is the only system that offers heat. > >8) The LRI is not affected by flaps, CG, angle of bank, sideslip. The >readings are instantaneous and continuous. > >9) LCD lights tend to get lost in direct sunlight. LED lights will be >visible in direct sunlight. > >10) The LRI LED system, which as yet has not yet found its way to our web >page, has an automatic dimmer plus a 16 step manual dimmer, an audible tone >at zero lift reserve (that is the point where the aircraft slips behind its >power curve. Falling behind the backside of the power curve can be seen for >the first time. Anyone familiar with the curve for the co-efficient of >lift will easily realize that the top of the curve, at the point where it >begins to turn to the stall, is where the LRI calibrate zero lift reserve.) > The LED also shuts down all lights at cruise except to protect against >light insensitivity. All that remains on is a single ready light. The LED >system also allows for in flight calibration. > >11) The LRI has been installed on just about every type of aircraft, both >certified and experimental, including a 737 for tests by NASA Langley. It >is installed on the Exxon Tiger, which you may know is a hybrid RV featured >on the cover of August Sport Aviation whose mission is to break two world's >records per year for the next five years. It broke the 10,000' time to >climb at Oshkosh and is going for the 20,000' record at Copperstate. The >LRI is installed on bush aircraft, amphibians, aerobatic aircraft (it works >inverted). It has been flown for hundreds of thousands of hours worldwide >in all sorts of conditions and environments. It has been well tested over >the long haul, the long haul being twenty years. It is very, very rugged >and very, very simple. > >12) The LRI carries a lifetime guarantee. > >If you feel that this is appropriate to post to the general RV line, please >feel free to do so. I don't want to impose what may appear to be a >commercial posting to the line if it might offend anyone. > >Oh yes, the LRI is costs less. > >Jim Huntington > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 1999
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: Seager @ Lebanon Fly-In
> >I've had two cancellations with Mike for this Saturday, 9:00 and 1:15. If >there is anyone out there who would like one of these slots, let me know off >list or call me at (901) 989-5113 (days) or (901) 660-4890 (evenings). > >Dave Hudgins Dave, Would you tell Mike that it is below 100 degrees in Phoenix now, so he can come here next? Regards, Tom Velvick rv-6a fuselage Peoria, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BB Diversified <bbds(at)means.net>
Subject: Powersport PSRU efficiency
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Frank van der Hulst writes: <> I don't know if the 210 hp is prop or engine, but I do think 15% loss for a gearbox is a bit high (intuitively, if a car rear end lost 15% and the transmission lost 15%, you'd have a real dog...) We can get quite a discussion going here and that is not my purpose, but please consider what the original post said: << ... When Allen Tohl had finished testing the powersport rotary in his RV3 and reinstalled his 180hp. Lycoming engine, his plane gained 50 lbs, and lost 15 mph top speed. >> The Powersport must be putting out more prop horsepower at less overall weight than an O360 is unless I'm missing something here. Johnny Johnson 49MM -3A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: How do you hoist a Lycoming?
Hoist the Lycoming with the Lycoming shackle ONLY, DO NOT hoist the aircraft with the single shackle. The problem is the casting area below the support webbing below the shackle on the engine case back....... It DOES tear off...... Don't ask me how I know this.... marcrv6a(at)hotmail.com on 09/30/99 03:44:58 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you hoist a Lycoming? Hi Stephen, You sure can rely on that shackle. On my installation (RV-6A) not only did I use this shackle to mount the engine but when came time to install the wings I used it to lift the whole aircraft. No problems at all. I Have a picture if you are interested. Cheers Marc Guay RV-6A Ottawa Canada Flying 120hours+ >From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Rv-List (E-mail)" >Subject: RV-List: How do you hoist a Lycoming? >Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:14:37 -0400 > > >Can you rely on the shackle on the top of the engine to support the weight >of the engine when you lift it? If not, where else do you recommend that >an >engine installer attach ropes, etc while maneuvering the engine into >position on the engine mount? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Sam James Cowl
Sorry guys, Got bitten by that innarushbug and didn't check the "TO:" line again ! > >Tom, > >In case I haven't been clear, I WANT THE COWL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com>
Subject: First Flight
Listers- Yesterday was the first flight of #22714, an O320/CS RV6A now known as N191XC. Performance as advertised. Pics and data to follow on a soon to be up and running web page. Thanks to Buffalo Bob Skinner, tech counselor and builders helper. Charlie Tyrrel aka Gillette Charlie, Gillette, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Static Ports
GV or other listers: There was a recent discussion on the list regarding the relative accurcies of the flush static ports and Van's "dimpled" pop rivet port. Can anyone enlighten me further on this? I'm at the point of selecting one or the other. Harry Crosby -6 Fuselage skins ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: "Ray Richardson Jr." <sales(at)powersportaviation.com>
Subject: Re:powersport's prop efficency
> Frank asked, >Is that 210hp at the engine or at the prop? How efficient is your PSRU? Frank; Thank-you for asking . Our Powersport Engine puts out 210 HP. at the prop. Our gearbox efficiency is 97.5 % (We lose 2.5% in the device). The losses are in the following order. The loss in the gear mesh is a little over 1%. The totals of the seal drag, bearing losses, and oil windage make up the remaining percentage. We had to know this information because we had to plan for the additional heat load on the oil system for the engine. If you would like to see the calculations I can send them to you. Powersport's reduction drive is a totally engineered design. We are meeting with the ASME, SAE chapter, and engineering professors at Fargo ND state University Oct 6 and 7 to review our engine running test display. The mechanical engineering staff has reviewed all of our reduction design calculations and we have the equipment to test the gearbox. Powersport's reduction design is the thesis topic for a masters degree for Steve Weinzierl, our chief engineer. When thesis has been reviewed, a SAE report paper will be published. Thank-you for asking Ray Richardson Jr. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
--- Charlie Tyrrel wrote: > > Listers- > > Yesterday was the first flight of #22714, an O320/CS RV6A now known > as N191XC. Yippee! Another one! Congratulations! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Re:powersport's prop efficency
What is / will be the cost of a complete powersport system for an -8? Bill Von Dane -8A empennage bvondane(at)atmel.com http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Static Ports
Date: Oct 01, 1999
>GV or other listers: There was a recent discussion on the list >regarding the relative accurcies of the flush static ports and Van's >"dimpled" pop rivet port. Can anyone enlighten me further on this? I'm at >the point of selecting one or the other. > >Harry Crosby >-6 Fuselage skins Harry, I don't know from firsthand experience but do know what many people told me when I was going thru this. The ports need to protude into the slipstream to be more accurate than flush ports. Van's pop rivet does this and Cleaveland ports do this. The Cleaveland ports protude an advertised 0.010". They should not be flush. I installed a drilled flush rivet but later changed to Cleaveland ports after many people stated the ports should not be flush. My -6 is not yet flying. Rick Caldwell RV-6 #24187 Fiberglass on canopy work still ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Charlie, CONGRATULATION !!!!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Still building) Niantic, CT ********************** >From: Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: First Flight >Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 13:10:25 -0600 > > >Listers- > >Yesterday was the first flight of #22714, an O320/CS RV6A now known as >N191XC. Performance as advertised. Pics and data to follow on a soon to be >up and running web page. Thanks to Buffalo Bob Skinner, tech counselor and >builders helper. > >Charlie Tyrrel aka Gillette Charlie, Gillette, WY > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Static Ports
Date: Oct 01, 1999
As I recall... some felt that the flush static port wasn't as accurate as the pop port. I used van's static system. It was pretty straight forward and easy to install. Dick White RV-8 fondling the finish kit. Newport, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 12:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Static Ports > > GV or other listers: There was a recent discussion on the list > regarding the relative accurcies of the flush static ports and Van's > "dimpled" pop rivet port. Can anyone enlighten me further on this? I'm at > the point of selecting one or the other. > > Harry Crosby > -6 Fuselage skins > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: c/s prop storage
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Just picked up my Hartzel c/s prop from Van's. The guy at the loading dock (not one of the tech support guys) said to make sure I store it laying flat rather than stacking it up on end. Anybody know anything about this? Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, finish kit www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Aero-Spit
I'm thinking ahead to painting this airplane (with wings removed) and wondering if I can attach the crankshaft flange to some sort of rotating thing (like an engine stand) and the Vertical Stabilizer attachment bulkhead to another one, and rotate it while painting. Has anyone done this? Will this overload the motor mounts? Will it tear up the rear bulkhead? Thanks in advance Brian Eckstein 6A finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Frozen Engine Bolts
Date: Oct 01, 1999
I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler connects to, and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty hefty Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any ideas? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: c/s prop storage
Date: Oct 01, 1999
I'll store it for you, Randy...I'll give it back to you when I can afford one to replace it, hows that? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Randy Lervold <randyl(at)pacifier.com> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 12:12 AM Subject: RV-List: c/s prop storage > >Just picked up my Hartzel c/s prop from Van's. The guy at the loading dock >(not one of the tech support guys) said to make sure I store it laying flat >rather than stacking it up on end. Anybody know anything about this? > >Randy Lervold >RV-8, #80500, finish kit >www.pacifier.com/~randyl >Home Wing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: air scoop yikes!
Hi, RE: RV-6 0-360-A1A Carb equipped. I just finished up my cowl and am very please with the way it fits. I was doing some initial fitting of the airscoop and filtered airbox. It would appear that I need to fill a 3/4" gap between the front of the airscoop and the cowl. Where did I go wrong? -Glenn Gordon ' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Listers, My experience with Ed Cole matches Larry's. Ed told me to send him a check when I received the CD, which I promptly did. Ed has been on this list a long time. I've never met Ed, however I have a very high opinion of him, judging by his posts to the list. He has been very helpful to anyone who asked. I'm sure that there is some sort of fluke at work here Scott. If you would like, I'll make a copy of the CD Ed sent me, and mail it to you for free Scott. How is your 6 project going? I stopped by with Peter Laurance to visit with you this past May. Charlie Kuss Prepping wing parts for priming Boca Raton, Fl. Amazing, > I ordered mine and he didn't even want money until he was sure he could > deliver it. I had it in two weeks, before I sent the check. > > Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com > > about ed coles cd , i've paid for it 2 months ago, after several > inquires , > and several broken promises, i still haven't recieved it ( ed if this is > harsh i'm sorry, but it's the truth) > scott tampa fuse > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Ed sent me mine before I even sent him a check...He said if it wasn't OK just send it back....Jim Brown,NJ, RV3 flying... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: (no subject)
Listers, Anyone have Sam James address and telephone number?? RVer273sb Colo. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
> I just finished up my cowl and am very please with the way it fits. I > was doing some initial fitting of the airscoop and filtered airbox. It > would appear that I need to fill a 3/4" gap between the front of the > airscoop and the cowl. Where did I go wrong? This is perfectly normal. If you read the instructions that come with the Fabulous Air Box you would know this. Use the foam block supplied with the FAB along with some glass cloth to mold the extension on the scoop Gary Zilik RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Static Ports
In a message dated 10/1/99 1:35:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com writes: << GV or other listers: There was a recent discussion of the list regarding the relative accuracies of the flush static ports and Van's "dimpled" pop rivet port. Can anyone enlighten me further on this? I'm at the point of selecting one or the other. >> Harry- Apparently there are subtleties in the installation of the static ports, regardless of type, that can significantly alter the accuracy and/or response curve of the static air source. Since we lack the ability to easily test the ports for dynamic accuracy in the air over the entire operating range, this will continue to be debated almost as much as primers. I don't pretend to understand all of the minutia that would have to be controlled in order to specify an accurate source installation for "your" plane. I have successfully used the ACS ports installed flush with the skin surface (I draw filed them down and carefully deburred the rim) on both sides of my 6A in the position specified in the plans. I used SMC fittings and SMC 1/4" OD polyurethane hose to connect the ports together and then teed off to the instruments (passing about 1/2" underneath the top longeron on the left side). My installation is accurate to within a few mph (per GPS multiple course avg) from Vso to Vmax. Your results may vary. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Charlie, Congrats on the first flight. How was it? Where you nervous? My 6A s/n 22993 is just about ready for paint and then I can make that first flight. Gary Zilik RV-6A - N99PZ reserved Pine Junction, CO > > > Yesterday was the first flight of #22714, an O320/CS RV6A now known as > N191XC. Performance as advertised. Pics and data to follow on a soon to be > up and running web page. Thanks to Buffalo Bob Skinner, tech counselor and > builders helper. > > Charlie Tyrrel aka Gillette Charlie, Gillette, WY > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
Paul, If you can find a straight allen wrench, a few light taps with a hammer on the end of the wrench might work. You might try heating the area in combination with penetrating oil of some kind. For a heat source: paint striping gun, "jet" type lighter (Blazer Micro torch). Let the area go through a couple of heat/cool cylces, if needed. Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY >I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler connects to, >and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty hefty >Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any ideas? > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://members.home.net/rv8er >Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Well I guess I should chime in here too. I only purchased a used IO-360 engine from Ed for $12,500. Ed and I entered into an agreement when I bought the engine and some issues came up and Ed honored the agreement to the letter and to the dollar. I have met Ed and in fact spent a night at his house and met his wife etc.... Ed is good people. I'm sure there has been some kind of mistake with your purchase Scott but if you will give me your address I'll send you the actual CD I got from Ed and let him replace it for me at his leisure. I know you didn't mean to dis Ed Scott but this list goes to a lot of people. AL > >Listers, > My experience with Ed Cole matches Larry's. Ed told me to send him a check when >I received the CD, which I promptly did. Ed has been on this list a long time. >I've never met Ed, however I have a very high opinion of him, judging by his >posts to the list. He has been very helpful to anyone who asked. I'm sure that >there is some sort of fluke at work here Scott. If you would like, I'll make a >copy of the CD Ed sent me, and mail it to you for free Scott. > How is your 6 project going? I stopped by with Peter Laurance to visit with you >this past May. >Charlie Kuss >Prepping wing parts for priming >Boca Raton, Fl. > >Amazing, > >> I ordered mine and he didn't even want money until he was sure he could >> deliver it. I had it in two weeks, before I sent the check. >> >> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com >> >> about ed coles cd , i've paid for it 2 months ago, after several >> inquires , >> and several broken promises, i still haven't recieved it ( ed if this is >> harsh i'm sorry, but it's the truth) >> scott tampa fuse >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
--- Paul Besing wrote: > > > I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the > oil cooler connects to, > and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I > have used a pretty hefty > Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they > won't budge...any ideas? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit Paul: I hate to say this but heat will work wonders. The aluminum case will expand more than the steel bolts and they will come out. I have used heat and it works. My standard practice is to place my hand near the fastener (back side if possible) and heat till it is almost too hot to touch. I can then turn off the heat and remove the fastener. It may or may not require a breaker bar. It will require a wrench. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
Gary, Perhaps I wasn't clear on this. The 3/4" misalignment is vertical. -Glenn Gordon Gary Zilik wrote: > > > I just finished up my cowl and am very please with the way it fits. I > > was doing some initial fitting of the airscoop and filtered airbox. It > > would appear that I need to fill a 3/4" gap between the front of the > > airscoop and the cowl. Where did I go wrong? > > This is perfectly normal. If you read the instructions that come with the > Fabulous Air Box you would know this. Use the foam block supplied with the FAB > along with some glass cloth to mold the extension on the scoop > > Gary Zilik > RV-6A > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Von Dane's" <vondanes(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Paint Booth...
Date: Oct 01, 1999
I promise I will not ask what kind of primer to use! HA HA... Seriously though, I need a good "safe" way to prime my parts. I do not have access to a paint booth so I have to improvise. I live in Colorado, and it is starting to get cold, so my side yard paint shop is closed. I have a garage (fairly warm) and an unfinished basement (nice and warm) to choose from, so I set up a small booth in the basement to try it out and It nearly killed me, and then my wife nearly killed me for smelling up the house... Anyone out there have any good ideas? HELP... -Bill Von Dane -8A empennage http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Subject: Re: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA
This was discussed at length in November 98. A couple of points really stuck in my mind: - Does the LRI really measure AoA? Not even LRI's web site answers that question. I think the answer is "no." - What does the LRI really measure? To answer that question, many of us went to the LRI's patent at http://www.patents.ibm.com/details?patent_number=4559822 I'm made somewhat skeptical of the patent's claims when I read some of the assertions in the patent, including: "Neither airspeed nor angle of attack indication reliably identifies the critical conditions of wing lift." (page 5, line 56, left column). To the best of my knowledge, that is absolutely wrong. According to the FAA's AC 61-21A, page 264, "One of the most important things a pilot should understand about angle of attack is that for any given airplane the stalling or critical angle of attack remains constant regardless of weight, dynamic pressure, bank angle, or pitch attitude..." I'm no aerodynamics expert, but it appears to me that the patent assertions conflict with 61-21A. The LRI appears to measure "dynamic" air pressure against the bottom of the wing. Lift is generated by the pressure difference between the bottom and the top of the wing. Is a measurement of the dynamic air pressure under the wing, by itself, an accurate measure of "closeness to stall"? The LRI certainly is an interesting idea. I'm not sure, however, that it really measures "the surplus kinetic energy of an aircraft mass" as the patent claims. Warning of impending stall is valuable. LRI has it's supporters, and it may be useful. But my BS detector goes off when I read the patent and the web site. www.liftreserve.com makes many claims about LRI's performance, accuracy, and robustness, but I don't see those claims backed up by compelling evidence. Gizmos marketed on the basis of shaky information bug me. Given a choice between LRI and a real AoA, I'd pick the AoA. An AoA's theory of operation is well understood and well documented. Tim Lewis - Yup, I'm from Missouri - Make-your-own-Piper-ish stall warning system info available for free on my web site... (I have nothing to sell) ****** Tim Lewis timrv6a(at)iname.com N47TD RV-6A, painting Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
It's in the yeller pages. I called him this morning but your going to have to call him on his Cel Phone because he's on his way to that RV gathering in Tenn. (I think) Cellular Number is 941-843-0548 AL > >Listers, > Anyone have Sam James address and telephone >number?? >RVer273sb Colo. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: c/s prop storage
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Randy: I just received my C/S prop and there are notations on the box not to stand it on end. If you open the box you will see why. The prop just sits on the bottom of the cardboard box with 2 cardboard "supports" stabilizing the blades. Stored on end may result in all the weight resting on one blade. Not good!!!! Actually I am amazed at the seemingly scanty packaging for such an expensive piece of machinery. Anyway, mine arrived unscathed. Stick it under your bed (lying flat of course)!! Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Lervold <randyl(at)pacifier.com> Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 7:07 PM Subject: RV-List: c/s prop storage > > Just picked up my Hartzel c/s prop from Van's. The guy at the loading dock > (not one of the tech support guys) said to make sure I store it laying flat > rather than stacking it up on end. Anybody know anything about this? > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, #80500, finish kit > www.pacifier.com/~randyl > Home Wing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
Date: Oct 01, 1999
> I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler connects to, > and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty hefty > Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any ideas? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit Paul, Know what am "impact wrench" is? It's an inexpensive device tht you hit with a hammer and it provides a shocking twisting motion to the frozen screw or bolt. I'd try one of these. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500 finish kit Home Wing ps. thanks for the prop storage offer! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Subject: Re: Paint Booth...
Date: Oct 01, 1999
Hi Bill: Glad to hear that you came to your senses and discontinued trying to spray in your basement. The health concerns are obvious, but there is nothing worse than an upset spouse....especially this early into your project! I live in NE Wisconsin and what I have done is spray in my open garage and then tote all the sprayed parts into the basement to dry. Yes, it does smell up my shop down there while things dry, but not nearly as much as if I had sprayed there. Only smells, again in the shop, for a day or so. If you must know, I use that primer that starts with a V and ends with "ariprime". There.....didn't mention any names......should avoid being toasted. The above has worked well for me, and I have not been served any papers by divorce lawyers. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6a 25171 closing first wing Peshtigo, WI -----Original Message----- From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Friday, October 01, 1999 10:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Paint Booth... > > >I promise I will not ask what kind of primer to use! HA HA... > >Seriously though, I need a good "safe" way to prime my parts. I do not have >access to a paint booth so I have to improvise. I live in Colorado, and it >is starting to get cold, so my side yard paint shop is closed. I have a >garage (fairly warm) and an unfinished basement (nice and warm) to choose >from, so I set up a small booth in the basement to try it out and It nearly >killed me, and then my wife nearly killed me for smelling up the house... > >Anyone out there have any good ideas? HELP... > >-Bill Von Dane >-8A empennage >http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Urgent! HS403/409 Question
Scott? Are you working late? I started drilling one of the HS409's into the HS403's and clecoing them in place. After about 6 holes I noted that the 409's are not flush against the edge of the channel as called for in the plans. If I continue, and make flush the other side, I will be within the 2 7/8" minimums the plans call for. Question....Do I stop now, call and order a new HS 403 and get it EXACTLY flush, or am I ok to continue? Should I make the other side flush or leave them with the same offset as I have currently begun (ensuring lateral symmetry). Jason Baker RV4 (Screwed up on my 3rd day!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 02, 1999
>Good point Chris. I have been planning from the beggining to use an >Airflow >Performance fuel injection kit on a new O-360 A1A. I thought about >modifying >Van's cowl to Sam's inlets and plenum but decided not to want to get >involved in advanced fiberglass work. Another reason favoring Sam's >cowl is >weight. He claims it is significantly lighter. I don't have any proof >though. Anybody else able to add something here? > - I think it is probably lighter than the old gelcoat polyester cowl. It is not likely any lighter than the new prepreg epoxy cowl. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Questions
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 02, 1999
> 2. Is the difference between 180 hp and 200hp in an RV8 worth the >extra money? - All of us at Van's will tell you no, but everyone always wants more than the next guy so we offered the option. With the 200 HP you gain about 35 extra pounds, $10,000 extra dollars in cost (OEM new), and a poorer service record (particularly the cylinders) compared to the parallel valve 180 HP. - How much performance difference is there? - Flat out top speed difference on different airplane of identical drag would be about 6 MPH. The difference shows the most in take off acceleration and climb (but it also shows on the fuel flow meter). I have to admit the RV-8A puts a grin on my face when I am flying solo on a cool morning. With 1/2 fuel I can airborn in about 250 ft., and climbing with the VSI pegged at 3000 FPM. But if I were building an -8 for my self I would put in a parallel valve O-360 with very slightly raised compression, and an airflow performance fuel injection system. I would have very near the same performance for a lot less money. True, it would still be slightly less HP but it would also be 35 lbs lighter which would make the score nearly even. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 02, 1999
> >> I just finished up my cowl and am very please with the way it fits. >I >> was doing some initial fitting of the airscoop and filtered airbox. >It >> would appear that I need to fill a 3/4" gap between the front of the >> airscoop and the cowl. Where did I go wrong? > >This is perfectly normal. If you read the instructions that come with >the >Fabulous Air Box you would know this. Use the foam block supplied with >the FAB >along with some glass cloth to mold the extension on the scoop > > - And I would like to add that it is important to do this unless you want to struggle to install and remove your cowl. If the airbox extends all the way fwd to the scoop inlet, it is then actually fwd of the opening cut in the main cowl for the scoop to attach. This makes it impossible to lower the cowl downward because the airbox gets caught under the top of the inlet scoop. If you can't lower the cowl, it makes it very hard to get it out from behind the bottom half of the spinner. >From what I have seen on RV's at fly-in's their are lots of people having a hard time getting their cowls on and off, and they may not even know why. Scott McDaniels Former RV-6A owner North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
Date: Oct 01, 1999
> > >Gary, >Perhaps I wasn't clear on this. The 3/4" misalignment is vertical. > >-Glenn Gordon Glenn, No big deal. The RV8 cowl also does not align without mods to the airbox. Simply (??) cut the box on each side at the base of the neck portion..all the way down to the bottom. You can then bend the top plate up or down as necessary to make the airbox inlet align with the cowl airscoop. Then, glass over the cuts with epoxy and 9oz. cloth. When there's fiberglass involved, there are LOTS of options. Oops! Now I'm sounding like one 'o them wacky plastic airplane folks. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD moved to hangar today! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Paint Booth...
Make sure you store your paint in a warm place for several hours prior to painting. (overnight if possible) If your paint is cold it goes on bad. Also keep the parts warm prior to painting. Get your garage as warm as possible. When everything is ready to spray turn off your heaters and ventilate during and after until no fumes, then close up and reheat garage with some minor ventilation. Use quick drying paints/reducers. Some paints just wont work well below 60 deg (Marhyde self etch). I've also tried ventilating from the heated house to an attached garage on cold days. (Heating bills don't count as airplane money) (You still get dirty looks from those who don't understand your brilliance.) Use several lighter coats in cold weather. Dave Beizer Rv6a Painting ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 09/30/99
I have recently completed the empennage and am now awaiting wing kit to arrive. To those who have installed Van's leading edge landing light--1) are you happy with the product, 2)does it perform as expected? To those who have installed another brand or configuration--same questions. Dave Ford awaiting wing kit RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8 Tail Pull Handle
I just installed a tail pull handle in my RV8Q. I've never liked the idea of manhandling the empennage around, or pulling on the prop when parking an airplane. B.A.S. Inc. of Eatonville, WA makes these handles for Cessna tail draggers and a few other certified airplanes, as well as the RV4 & 6. He advertises in the Flyer. I made a mockup to fit the 8 fuselage and took it over to him, and he make a prototype for me. It fits just in front of the F-808 bulkhead. He made on extra, and will make more if there is an interest. I realize this adds weight (7 oz.), but it's worth it to me. I have no interest in his company, in fact he charged me full retail for the prototype handle ($130). His number is 1-888-255-6566. www.basinc-aeromod.com. E-mail me for more details. Mike Robbins RV8Q N88MJ fuselage stuff Issaquah, WA kitfox(at)gte.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: -6A tow bar
I share a hangar with another -6A, utilizing a ramp to overlap the wings (and reduce hangar rent by 50%). We have a steel tow bar which we winch the upper plane up the ramp. The allen head bolts have worked well for two years now. For the lower, ground level plane we simply made a fork from AL square tubing and gusset plates and welded nuts to a washer for the screw in mechanism. It is more for steering than towing, although it seems strong enough (although not for winching). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: New fiberglass nose gear fairing
George did not receive instructions with the gear leg faring, when you get time would appreciate some. Terry E. Cole 8010 Chicago Ave. Lubbock, TX. 79424 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA
I used to follow the Europa board before I settled on the RV6. There was quite a discussion about the LRI on that board. At least one builder had installed the system and was very happy with it. I seem to remember that it uses 3 ports: upper surface, lower surface, and leading edge. I could be wrong about that, but this would answer your question about dynamic pressure under the wing, it is the difference in pressure adjusted for airspeed (somehow). As for the AOA and LRI issues you mention, I don't know much, but here is what I do know. The F-18 is flown and landed (especially on carriers) by AOA. The AOA in the Hornet is derived by a similar (but probably more expensive) system of air ports and computers (i.e. It has no classic AOA measuring devise). The stalling AOA of the Hornet DOES change within the broad range of airspeeds, g-loading, air density and POWER SETTING that the Hornet is subject to. Ever see the Blue Angel demo with two Hornets flying past the stands at low speed and >45 deg AOA? Typically, however, and especially during the landing phase, stalling AOA remains nearly unchanged and is of course far better than airspeed. GA aircraft have a much narrower spread of all these variables and therefore stalling AOA remains essentially unchanged. Does the LRI really measure AOA? I have no idea. But, based on the Europa net discussion, it does seem clear that it measures something useful that is akin to AOA. If you plan to land on short strips, I am sure that either a classic AOA device or the LRI will fit the bill. The issue is then weather the extra money is worth the lower drag and assorted other niceties of the LRI. I suppose the point I am making is that Im not sure if LRI's claims are all true, but perhaps close enough? I like it when people design, build, and market goodies for use in GA. Sure must be a difficult enough task. I wish I could afford them all. :-) Dave Leonard 6QB > > According to the FAA's AC 61-21A, page 264, > "One of the most important things a pilot should understand about > angle of attack is that for any given airplane the stalling or critical > angle of attack remains constant regardless of weight, dynamic > pressure, bank angle, or pitch attitude..." I'm no aerodynamics expert, > but it appears to me that the patent assertions conflict with 61-21A. > > The LRI appears to measure "dynamic" air pressure against the > bottom of the wing. Lift is generated by the pressure difference > between the bottom and the top of the wing. Is a measurement of the > dynamic air pressure under the wing, by itself, an accurate measure > of "closeness to stall"? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Paint Booth
Date: Oct 02, 1999
When I did my tail kit I made a small booth inside my shop ( separate building from my house). I did it along a side wall that has a window. I screwed two posts from floor to ceiling on either side of the window to make a room about 6' by 6'. The walls were made of clear plastic sheet and a small fan went on the windowsill pushing air outside. The inside of the shop didn't stink much at all when doing this. This worked great for the tail but was immediately too small for the wing spar pieces. It had also become too dirty, it needed new walls. I then built a plastic shed on the outside of the shop and that has served ever since. It has a shelf on one end that has a large floor fan pushing the air out. The other end draws air in through a curtain door. It is easy to clean with the garden hose. In the winter I only have the parts outside long enough to prime them, they dry inside. I mount the skins on pieces of plywood so that I can handle them when they are wet. Temperature seems to be very important, especially with finish paint. Keep everything inside until the last second. I am still learning more about painting but have put finish coats of gloss white on all my major steel parts (landing gear and weldments, engine mount, control sticks) with this outside shed. I will soon try my wingtips in a dark single stage metallic. Norman Hunger Delta, BC. RV6A Seat Floors ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: w-623
i am building a rv-6. cant find w-623.do you fabricate it or what.it goes at the outb.end of the fuel tank.also how does it fasten to tanks. TCRV6(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
--- Glenn & Judi wrote: > > > Perhaps I wasn't clear on this. The 3/4" > misalignment is vertical. > > -Glenn Gordon When you say 3/4" vertical, I assume that the fiberglass does not touch where the opening for the FAB aligns with the opening in the cowl. Sounds like you have the scoop for a FAB-320 and need the scoop for a FAB-360. The carburetor on the O-360 is taller than the one on the O-360. 320's that use Fuel Injection also need the scoop from the 360 as the fuel servo is the same length as the 360 Carb. Give Van a call and describe the situation to one of the technical guys. Hope this helped. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
My Sam James Cowl weieged in at around 15 lbs. I am not sure how that compares to Van's. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved), finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: ed cole
whooaa, i didn't mean for it to sound like i was disrespecting mr. cole, in fact i value his post very much. my statement was posted in hopes ed would see it, and jog his memory about my order,. i have no doubt that ed will send this order, he must be very busy, but after 2 months, i thought i was allowed to start ( squeeking the wheel ) to get his attention. if it came out disrespectful, i apologise ed, it may be my cajun accent yea. scott tampa fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Tow bar
I purchased ($48 plus $6 S&H) my 'mid-weight' tow bar from Ken Barto. Although it is his mid-weight model, it is very light and is 34" overall length. It fits into the Allen nuts quite securely. I have covers on the axle nut holes in the pants and would not want to have to remove them every time I pushed or pulled my -6A. As noted by other postings, even with the tow bar, it takes some finesse to control the nose wheel when pushing the plane back. I am pleased with my Ken Barto tow bar. If interested, contact Ken at 4156 Torrey Lane, Liverpool, NY 13090, phone 315-622-2072. S&H to Australia might be prohibitive...I hope something is available locally. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A just passed 100 hours > I have a RV-6A to get in and out of a tight hanger and all it wants to do > when I push it backward is lock the front wheel in a turn. > > How can I fix a tow bar to the front wheel? > Any plans or pictures out there? > > Royce Craven > Melbourne > Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring
Date: Oct 02, 1999
I am trying to wire my PS Engineering PM1000II intercom from Van's and I don't understand the wiring for the PTT switches. If I follow the wiring diagram literally, I would run two-conductor cable from the MIC jack to the PTT switch - it is not clear if this run is shielded. Running the PTT wiring this way would result in considerable extra wire, as my MIC jacks will be behind the cabin frame and the PTTs on the sticks. Running shielded cable through the stick seems difficult -- Belden shielded cable (8735 3-conductor -- almost same diameter as 8441 2-conductor) is pretty stiff and seems like it might fatigue were it exits the stick near the rotation axis. It appears that to enable PTT, pins 11,24 (pilot) and 10,22 (copilot), need to be shorted together. My questions to those that have purchased a harness or made one are: 1) Do I need to run shielded cable to the PTT switches or can I just run twisted-pair AWG 20 Tefzel? 2) Can I run the PTT wires directly from the DB-25 connector in parallel with the lines to the MIC? I asked PS Engineering these questions and they suggested I buy the harness from them. I hope listers will be more informative! Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Aero-Spit
In a message dated 10/1/99 8:41:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes: << Will this overload the motor mounts? >> Bruce, I do not believe it will tear up the motor mounts. The shear load on the mounts at 9g are about 3600 pounds and the bending moment is about 7000 foot pounds based on a back on the envelope calculation. The shear load at the firewall on a rotating stand would be about 600 pounds and the bending moment would be approximately 3000 pounds so IMHO the engine mount should be fine, but it sure would be nice to hear someone who has experience to say it was OK. Bernie Kerr,6A mounting wings and gear mounts, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Static Ports
I tried to make my static ports flush with the skin. Ideally, the pressure at the hole should be the pressure of the air ten yards away, right? So, if the port is raised up in a profile like a wing, that would not be ideal, right? Hopefully some day I will find out. If I had known then what I know now, I would have popped in two rivets and got the hell on with it! The ASI only has relative value anyway. Speed over the ground is what ATC sees and is what we are really after, isn't it? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
Hi, What happens to the engine case when one or two screws are loosened and retightened? I would think the possibility of distortion/stress would be great? hal > >I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler connects to, > >and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty hefty > >Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any ideas? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: air scoop yikes!
In a message dated 10/1/99 21:02:58, glenng(at)megsinet.net writes: << Gary, Perhaps I wasn't clear on this. The 3/4" misalignment is vertical. -Glenn Gordon >> You're still ok if the FAB is the low piece. You have to bend the top plate of the FAB up to match the cowl hole. Hopefully the rest of the FAB will fall into place ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
Date: Oct 02, 1999
These are not any kind of mounting screws. They are NPT plugs for the oil cooler lines. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 3:16 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Frozen Engine Bolts > >Hi, > >What happens to the engine case when one or two screws are loosened and >retightened? I would think the possibility of distortion/stress would be >great? > >hal > > >> >I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler connects to, >> >and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty hefty >> >Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any ideas? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Dennis: I wired my harness, but it was for a PM 2000, however the concept is the same. In my case, you have a two conductor shielded wire going to the mic jack. The push to talk is simply a temporary (when pressed) jumper between the barrel of the connector (which the shield is also connected to) and the push to talk lead which connects to the jack. So to answer your question, no it is not a shielded wire to the stick. If you notice the diagram, anytime you see an oval going around a group of wires, those are shielded. The PTT wire simply connects two parts of the jack together. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 2:33 PM Subject: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring > >I am trying to wire my PS Engineering PM1000II intercom from Van's and I >don't understand the wiring for the PTT switches. If I follow the wiring >diagram literally, I would run two-conductor cable from the MIC jack to the >PTT switch - it is not clear if this run is shielded. Running the PTT >wiring this way would result in considerable extra wire, as my MIC jacks >will be behind the cabin frame and the PTTs on the sticks. Running shielded >cable through the stick seems difficult -- Belden shielded cable (8735 >3-conductor -- almost same diameter as 8441 2-conductor) is pretty stiff and >seems like it might fatigue were it exits the stick near the rotation axis. > >It appears that to enable PTT, pins 11,24 (pilot) and 10,22 (copilot), need >to be shorted together. My questions to those that have purchased a harness >or made one are: > >1) Do I need to run shielded cable to the PTT switches or can I just run >twisted-pair AWG 20 Tefzel? >2) Can I run the PTT wires directly from the DB-25 connector in parallel >with the lines to the MIC? > >I asked PS Engineering these questions and they suggested I buy the harness >from them. I hope listers will be more informative! > >Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit >Hampshire, IL C38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: w-623
TCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > i am building a rv-6. cant find w-623.do you fabricate it or what.it goes at > the outb.end of the fuel tank.also how does it fasten to tanks. > > TCRV6(at)aol.com This is a strip of aluminum 1 1/2" x 36 1/2" that goes between the nose rib at station 71.5 and the nose skin. The tank overlaps the w-623 and the tank screws go into platenuts installed in the w-623. You should have two strips in the wing kit for making the w-623's. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuse on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Static Ports and position error
In a message dated 10/2/99 9:13:51, kempthorne(at)earthlink.net writes: << If I had known then what I know now, I would have popped in two rivets and got the hell on with it! The ASI only has relative value anyway. Speed over the ground is what ATC sees and is what we are really after, isn't it? hal >> I agree with this 100 %. Unfortunately position error also seems to affect indicated altitude accuracy and this is also what ATC and other airplanes see. It seems every one wants to talk about IAS error since that is so easy to measure in these days of GPS with its instant groundspeed. Now my question to the aerodynamicologists is this: If my position error is essentially zero for the airspeed indicator (which it is) does this mean my altimeter error is also likely zero? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly
Posting] Matt Dralle wrote: > --> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > ******************************** > *** RV-List Usage Guidelines *** > ******************************** > Hear! Hear! It's about time. Matt, you have potentially one of the most useful sites for an RV builder/enthusiast. It is a shame to have it diminished by unnecessary rhetoric and rude comments. I thought the point of groups like this was to foster a common goal, building and flying an RV, and not give long-winded orators a soapbox. I would like to contribute, but don't want to be "Flamed" or called names because my experience may be different from someone else's. I'm currently building a 6 Tilt Tail, 180 Lyc, Sensenich, and even though this is my 9th project, I have picked up much useful information by just scanning through the archives and will continue to do so. Hopefully there will be less garbage to wade through in the future Thank you Matt for your selfless efforts. Garry LeGare. EAA 94585, Tech Counselor 4212 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Paul, Thanks for clarifying the PTT wiring. Did you come off of the jacks to the PTT or off the D-connector pins? Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 11:06 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring > >Dennis: > >I wired my harness, but it was for a PM 2000, however the concept is the >same. In my case, you have a two conductor shielded wire going to the mic >jack. The push to talk is simply a temporary (when pressed) jumper between >the barrel of the connector (which the shield is also connected to) and the >push to talk lead which connects to the jack. > >So to answer your question, no it is not a shielded wire to the stick. > >If you notice the diagram, anytime you see an oval going around a group of >wires, those are shielded. The PTT wire simply connects two parts of the >jack together. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://members.home.net/rv8er >Finish Kit > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> >To: rv-list >Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 2:33 PM >Subject: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring > > >> >>I am trying to wire my PS Engineering PM1000II intercom from Van's and I >>don't understand the wiring for the PTT switches. If I follow the wiring >>diagram literally, I would run two-conductor cable from the MIC jack to >the >>PTT switch - it is not clear if this run is shielded. Running the PTT >>wiring this way would result in considerable extra wire, as my MIC jacks >>will be behind the cabin frame and the PTTs on the sticks. Running shielded >>cable through the stick seems difficult -- Belden shielded cable (8735 >>3-conductor -- almost same diameter as 8441 2-conductor) is pretty stiff >and >>seems like it might fatigue were it exits the stick near the rotation axis. >> >>It appears that to enable PTT, pins 11,24 (pilot) and 10,22 (copilot), need >>to be shorted together. My questions to those that have purchased a >harness >>or made one are: >> >>1) Do I need to run shielded cable to the PTT switches or can I just run >>twisted-pair AWG 20 Tefzel? >>2) Can I run the PTT wires directly from the DB-25 connector in parallel >>with the lines to the MIC? >> >>I asked PS Engineering these questions and they suggested I buy the harness >>from them. I hope listers will be more informative! >> >>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit >>Hampshire, IL C38 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Jim Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com>
Subject: Lift Reserve Indicator
Listers, Please pardon me the urge to reply to Tim Lewis " Yup, I'm from Missouri" in this semi- public forum rather than privately as I very often do, not wanting to burden anyone with what may appear to be commercialism or private conversation. But the gauntlet has been thrown and it would be less than courageous to just stare at it laying there without picking it up and shaking the dust off. So forgive me as I try to engage in conversation via e-mail - a medium that is prone to miscommunication, over statement, and yup - BS. Since the issue is one of general aviation safety first and foremost, I will insert various comments from Tim's posting yesterday and attempt to reply in not too much length. This is a very serious issue and in reading newspaper reports, discussions on this line and others, NTSB reports, and I read about accidents that could have been avoided with the use of AOA instrumentation it makes me very, very sad. This coupled with the fact that the FAA supports the use of airspeed indicators as a primary flight instrument is puzzling when airspeed indicators are inherently unsafe at low speeds. At Oshkosh an NTSB fellow in his black t shirt came by our booth, and I pushed him on this point to explain what gives with this. His reply was that he couldn't speak for the NTSB, but the he had the LRI on his aircraft. Now just a few replies for yesterday's posting from Tim: >Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI AOA vs PSS AOA >This was discussed at length in November 98. Angle of attack, its merits and applications for general aviation, needs to be discussed a great deal more. A couple of points >really stuck in my mind: >- Does the LRI really measure AoA? Not even LRI's web site answers >that question. I think the answer is "no." >- What does the LRI really measure? To answer that question, many >of us went to the LRI's patent at >http://www.patents.ibm.com/details?patent_number=4559822 The Lift Reserve Indicator was invented and patented by my father, Morgan Huntington, who died in 1992. The patent is indeed unusual in that there is far more 'theory' than is ususal for patent filings. My father's theories often confounded folks, and he liked to provoke discourse in a somewhat western style. The fact that he went to war with the FAA bespeaks his early 1900's Nevada upbringing. As long as I knew my father, he was in constant pusuit for the understanding of things, looking for new insights. His life very much paralleled the growth and development of aviation. Tim is not the first person to be pickeled by some of my father's theories concerning the LRI. But the plain fact is that my father was an empiricist, not a theorist, that is, he followed insights, tinkered and perfected. He had patents all over the world in areas such as nuclear engineering, sewage treratment, water purification, oilshale recovery, steel processing and other things as well. > >I'm made somewhat skeptical of the patent's claims when I read some >of the assertions in the patent, including: >"Neither airspeed nor angle of attack indication reliably identifies the >critical conditions of wing lift." (page 5, line 56, left column). Argue with my father. >To the best of my knowledge, that is absolutely wrong. > >According to the FAA's AC 61-21A, page 264, >"One of the most important things a pilot should understand about >angle of attack is that for any given airplane the stalling or critical >angle of attack remains constant regardless of weight, dynamic >pressure, bank angle, or pitch attitude..." I'm no aerodynamics expert, >but it appears to me that the patent assertions conflict with 61-21A. My father enjoyed conflict with the FAA. In fact, given the view of a son running for cover from the strange doings of a parent (Oh no, why did he say that?)- I am certain many of us are familiar with this 'all in the family' type of thing- it seemed to me he enjoyed tweaking FAA noses. > >The LRI appears to measure "dynamic" air pressure against the >bottom of the wing. Lift is generated by the pressure difference >between the bottom and the top of the wing. Is a measurement of the >dynamic air pressure under the wing, by itself, an accurate measure >of "closeness to stall"? Now to a more serious matter. The LRI has been tested by Embry Riddle, Cessna, Wichita State University, NASA Langley, The Monterey Post Graduate Naval Academy - among others. It was highly endorsed by Aviation Consumer which flew with it on their Mooney for over ten years, although they did include the caveat - "Don't ask Morgan how it works". It was strongly endorsed by the Aerostar Owners group, by its safety director - having saved his life twice. The AOPA tested the LRI in a 210 with low time student pilots and flying with the LRI the students nailed every landing. Flying with the airspeed indicator, they were chasing the landing all over the runway. Given the accident curve for high performance homebuilt aircraft for pilots coming into their own for the first time with their aircraft, this last bit with the AOPA and student pilots is a matter of serious concern. > >The LRI certainly is an interesting idea. I'm not sure, however, that it >really measures "the surplus kinetic energy of an aircraft mass" as the >patent claims. So what. > >Warning of impending stall is valuable. LRI has it's supporters, and it >may be useful. It has saved many pilots lives, opened up areas of performance that had not previously been available, gotten pilots away from POH speeds with are set by liability concerns by the manufacturers - and allowed pilots GA pilots for the first time to fly the wing. But my BS detector goes off when I read the patent >and the web site. www.liftreserve.com makes many claims about LRI's My appologies for the web site. It is a dinosaur. Agreed. It is far from adequately delivering the serious information that we wish to provide. I take full responsibility for that and make no claims concerning HTML programming. I hope to improve it soon. >performance, accuracy, and robustness, but I don't see those claims >backed up by compelling evidence. There is a wealth of compelling evidence both technical and experiential, examples cited above. Given a >choice between LRI and a real AoA, I'd pick the AoA. An AoA's >theory of operation is well understood and well documented. We tell every one that regardless of choice of system, to understand the importance of flying with an instrument that can provide: -continuous readouts of margin over stall -identify where an aircraft slips behind the power curve -readouts all density altitude correct - no calculations or guessing -windshear detection and recovery -slowest safe flyable airspeeds -identifies Vx, minimum sink, L/Dmax, Vy Jim Huntington Lift Reserve Indicator jimrhunt(at)wco.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jdsnipes(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re:powersport's prop efficency
I would like to see the calculations on the powersport redrive. Please send to my e-mail address. Also does or will your company make a PSRU for a Mercedes Benz engine like that used in their SUV? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Frozen Engine Bolts
Paul, I have had the same thing. I heated the area around the plug (and the plug got hot, too) with a heat gun, then put penetrating oil of some kind on the outside edges of the plug, then cut off a 3/8" (or whatever size the plug takes) allen wrench about 1" long, used an impact wrench (with a socket on the allen wrench, hit it with a hammer), then put a piece of pipe on the rest of the handle of the allen wrench and tried to turn it out. Took several tries, but it finally came out. Good luck! Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Frozen Engine Bolts another alternative.
This is a tip I got from Light Plane Maintenance last month A way to remove stuck plugs and fittings. the area is heated with a propane torch until it cannot be touched by hand. Then, a candle is placed directly on the pipe plug, allowing the wax to melt of the plug and seep into the threads. Afterward, a common ratchet and hex head socket is used to turn the plug out. It works very well. I have never tried this method, but will when the time comes Gary Zilik RV-6A JHeadric(at)aol.com wrote: > > Paul, I have had the same thing. I heated the area around the plug (and the > plug got hot, too) with a heat gun, then put penetrating oil of some kind on > the outside edges of the plug, then cut off a 3/8" (or whatever size the plug > takes) allen wrench about 1" long, used an impact wrench (with a socket on > the allen wrench, hit it with a hammer), then put a piece of pipe on the rest > of the handle of the allen wrench and tried to turn it out. Took several > tries, but it finally came out. Good luck! > > Jim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Booth...
The Von Dane's wrote: > > I promise I will not ask what kind of primer to use! HA HA... > > Seriously though, I need a good "safe" way to prime my parts. I do not have > access to a paint booth so I have to improvise. I live in Colorado, and it > is starting to get cold, so my side yard paint shop is closed. I have a > garage (fairly warm) and an unfinished basement (nice and warm) to choose > from, so I set up a small booth in the basement to try it out and It nearly > killed me, and then my wife nearly killed me for smelling up the house... Up here at 8480 MSL in Pine Junction, CO I have the same problems with priming in the winter. I also have an unfinished basement and have used it year round for priming. The secret is to keep fresh air flowing through the basement at all times. In the end of the basement I use for priming I have installed a box fan in the window. The fan is mounted on plywood that fits the window opening and is simple to install/deinstall. I then go to the other end of the basement, and open up another window about 1/4 open. I fire the boiler up to keep the basement warm and start painting. The cross flow through the basement set up by the fan and open window is more than enough to keep the smell from going places it is not supposed to be. I adjust the fan speed as necessary to keep the flow just right since I am pumping $$$ through the boiler heating the outside world. This has worked great even at 22 below zero. I once opened an upstairs window thinking the flow down the stairs would help keep the smell going outside. Worked great, but froze my wife's prize plant sitting near the open window. We do learn from our mistakes. Gary Zilik RV-6A Pine Junction, CO - Winter is on it's way. > > > Anyone out there have any good ideas? HELP... > > -Bill Von Dane > -8A empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Hardware Information
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Charlie, Thanks for the defense. I'll take care of Scott's problem personally. No excuses on this one, I totally have dropped the ball on his order and this makes me look pretty bad. I've shipped out over 100 copies to folks on the list, most prior to them sending me the check as I have faith in all the RVators, and they've all come through for me. At $10 a copy including labor, jewel case, shipping envelope, and a buck for postage, believe me, this wasn't a get rich quick scheme! I've replaced CD's missing in shipment for no charge, ate the extra postage for Canadian orders, and have tried to do right by all. I have two Graham's located in Austrailia that are still waiting, but other than that, everyone has been pleased. So a public apology goes to Scott. Ed Cole RV6A Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 5:56 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hardware Information > > Listers, > My experience with Ed Cole matches Larry's. Ed told me to send him a check when > I received the CD, which I promptly did. Ed has been on this list a long time. > I've never met Ed, however I have a very high opinion of him, judging by his > posts to the list. He has been very helpful to anyone who asked. I'm sure that > there is some sort of fluke at work here Scott. If you would like, I'll make a > copy of the CD Ed sent me, and mail it to you for free Scott. > How is your 6 project going? I stopped by with Peter Laurance to visit with you > this past May. > Charlie Kuss > Prepping wing parts for priming > Boca Raton, Fl. > > Amazing, > > > I ordered mine and he didn't even want money until he was sure he could > > deliver it. I had it in two weeks, before I sent the check. > > > > Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com > > > > about ed coles cd , i've paid for it 2 months ago, after several > > inquires , > > and several broken promises, i still haven't recieved it ( ed if this is > > harsh i'm sorry, but it's the truth) > > scott tampa fuse > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring
Date: Oct 02, 1999
The wire to and from the PTT switch goes directly to the proper connectors on the jack itself. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 5:17 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring > >Paul, >Thanks for clarifying the PTT wiring. Did you come off of the jacks to the >PTT or off the D-connector pins? >Dennis > >-----Original Message----- >From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 11:06 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring > > >> >>Dennis: >> >>I wired my harness, but it was for a PM 2000, however the concept is the >>same. In my case, you have a two conductor shielded wire going to the mic >>jack. The push to talk is simply a temporary (when pressed) jumper >between >>the barrel of the connector (which the shield is also connected to) and the >>push to talk lead which connects to the jack. >> >>So to answer your question, no it is not a shielded wire to the stick. >> >>If you notice the diagram, anytime you see an oval going around a group of >>wires, those are shielded. The PTT wire simply connects two parts of the >>jack together. >> >>Paul Besing >>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >>http://members.home.net/rv8er >>Finish Kit >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> >>To: rv-list >>Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 2:33 PM >>Subject: RV-List: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring >> >> >>> >>>I am trying to wire my PS Engineering PM1000II intercom from Van's and I >>>don't understand the wiring for the PTT switches. If I follow the wiring >>>diagram literally, I would run two-conductor cable from the MIC jack to >>the >>>PTT switch - it is not clear if this run is shielded. Running the PTT >>>wiring this way would result in considerable extra wire, as my MIC jacks >>>will be behind the cabin frame and the PTTs on the sticks. Running >shielded >>>cable through the stick seems difficult -- Belden shielded cable (8735 >>>3-conductor -- almost same diameter as 8441 2-conductor) is pretty stiff >>and >>>seems like it might fatigue were it exits the stick near the rotation >axis. >>> >>>It appears that to enable PTT, pins 11,24 (pilot) and 10,22 (copilot), >need >>>to be shorted together. My questions to those that have purchased a >>harness >>>or made one are: >>> >>>1) Do I need to run shielded cable to the PTT switches or can I just run >>>twisted-pair AWG 20 Tefzel? >>>2) Can I run the PTT wires directly from the DB-25 connector in parallel >>>with the lines to the MIC? >>> >>>I asked PS Engineering these questions and they suggested I buy the >harness >>>from them. I hope listers will be more informative! >>> >>>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit >>>Hampshire, IL C38 >>> >>> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Engine bolts removed!
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Well, thanks for all of the replies on how to get these damn plugs out of the engine. Unfortunately, the only thing that ended up working on these was the 'ole Easy Out. I am sure that these other methods usually work, but I am certain that Bart Lalonde's last name is really Schwarzenegger. Now the new problem is, where the drill went through the end of the plug, I am sure that there are a few metal shavings in the engine now. Will the filter pick these up, or did I just create a much larger problem????? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
Any one have Sam James telephone number? RVer273sb Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Any one have Sam James telephone number? > RVer273sb Co. > Sam James phone # is 941-675-4493. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hamilton Cartwright" <hamc101(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives?
Date: Oct 02, 1999
SAM JAMES 121855 SCHOONER LANE S.W. MOOR HAVEN , FL. 33471 941-675-4493 -----Original Message----- From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 6:55 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives? > >RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote: >> >> >> Any one have Sam James telephone number? >> RVer273sb Co. >> > >Sam James phone # is 941-675-4493. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Search Engine
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Has anyone tried using the List search engine in the last day or so. I tried to search the RV-6 archieves and get no hits on "tow bar", "primer", etc., and you know we have had plenty of chat on both. Anyone else having the same problem?? Ed Anderson Matthew NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Oct 02, 1999
"RV-List: Search Engine" (Oct 2, 6:05pm)
Subject: Re: Search Engine
>-------------- > >Has anyone tried using the List search engine in the last day or so. I >tried to search the RV-6 archieves and get no hits on "tow bar", "primer", >etc., and you know we have had plenty of chat on both. Anyone else having >the same problem?? > >Ed Anderson >Matthew NC >-------------- Ed, Are you sure that you weren't seeing those posts on the normal RV-List? My account records show that there haven't been any posts on the RV6 specific List in a few days. I did a search on "tow bar" and "primer 1999" in the "RV" archive and came back with the expected number of hits...? Best regards, Matt Dralle List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylph" <sylph(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Search Engine
Date: Oct 02, 1999
Ed, I've used it recently just fine and I just checked it--it is working now. Of course the RV6 specific list didn't get any responses because it is new and I think everyone is sticking with the more general and original RV list. On the RV list I just got 25 hits for "tow bar" and 400 for "primer." Give it a try now and see if it works. Good luck, Michael Portland sylph(at)uswest.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Search Engine
Ed Anderson wrote: > > > Has anyone tried using the List search engine in the last day or so. I > tried to search the RV-6 archieves and get no hits on "tow bar", "primer", > etc., and you know we have had plenty of chat on both. Anyone else having > the same problem?? > > Ed Anderson > Matthew NC Hi Ed I had the same problem recently, search the rv-list which now is now labled as just "RV". Sometimes wonderful new systems are not as good as the old system they replaced. George McNutt 6A -fuse Langley, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 1999
From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: Navaid wing leveler
Someone please enlighten me. I have ordered the wing kit with aileron electric trim. I want to incorporate the Navaid wing leveler. Is aileron trim unnecessary with the Navaid? Where can I find out information/purchase the Navaid? Dave Ford awaiting wings RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid wing leveler
Date: Oct 02, 1999
There is much discussion on the Navaid and trim recently..check the archives..you can also get Navaid Devices number from the yeller pages.. http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm The Navaid has its own trim, which is what I plan on using, however you won't have the Navaid functioning while in the pattern, so some say to go ahead and put the trim on for the low altitude trimming. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 4:00 AM Subject: RV-List: Navaid wing leveler > >Someone please enlighten me. I have ordered the wing kit with aileron electric >trim. I want to incorporate the Navaid wing leveler. Is aileron trim unnecessary >with the Navaid? Where can I find out information/purchase the Navaid? > >Dave Ford >awaiting wings >RV6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: Jeff Rose - off the hook
I am glad to announce that I finally found the cause of my engine problems, and, as I had hoped from the beginning, indeed it had nothing to do with the electronic ignition. It is running fine and to specs as predicted. When I installed the ignition originally I replaced a couple of mag plugs that were showing wear. It turns out that one of the brand new plugs fails after it heats up, which of course doesn't show up even on the test equipment. It wasn't until I had EGT probes on all four cyls. that I was able to trace the plug and then swapped it and traced that too, thus eliminating the harness question. (if I had a nickel for every time I've removed that cowl in two years...) The Rose ignition system was very easy to install (and uninstall and reinstall!) taking maybe four hours, most involving running a separate circuit straight from the battery. I hear a very slight noise in my headsets (ANR) at idle but can't hear it when engine rpm increases. Jeff was helpful in offering to send free replacement parts when all this occurred originally. His system seems quite robust and simple. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. It is interesting to observe how people analyse a problem and arrive at a theory (one guy just wouldn't let go of the idea of a camshaft with misaligned factory marks even though my engine had been running fine for 400+ hrs). I hope others got a taste of how things can be and realize with an experimental and worse yet, electronic ignition, there's going to be a lot of Cessna mechanics pushing Marvel Mystery oil when they don't really know. kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: lean to peak?
Norm at Premier Engines told me that I should be running my Lycoming 100 degrees rich of the peak temp of the highest cylinder. He says that people used to say 25 or 50 degrees but with the 100LL nowadays it needs to be lower to insure not burning valves. He said to find peak by leaning out until you hear rpm drop then back up a bit. So, is the 100LL thing a myth? Peak temps vary with altitude. Is 1050 at 6,000' different on the valves than 1400 at sea level? Isn't temp limit of a valve an absolute and not vary with altitude? Benedict stated that when under 75% power setting that mixture settings could not damage the engine. If this is true then why not lean to peak? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: Re: bottom skins 6a
Date: Oct 03, 1999
I'm Getting ready to rivet the bottom skins on my 6a and and noticed several rivet lines that are machine coutersunk on the surface( the double row of rivets at f-606 ataching the baggage bottom and aft bottom skins). these skins are .025 and can see no apparent reason for not dimpling. there is a similar situation at f-604 where the seat bottom skins and forward botton skins are both machine c`sunk. Justice makes some mention as to dimple


September 27, 1999 - October 03, 1999

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