RV-Archive.digest.vol-hb
October 03, 1999 - October 11, 1999
pretty much everything. but the burning question is why vans would want it
done that way?
I feel more confortable dimpling everything, but whenever i deviate from
the plans, i worry that i'll regret it in the next step...anyone been there
done that??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Search Engine |
Boy,
Sure shows you what happens when you engage keyboard before brain. As
Michael points out, I was attempting to search under the new RV-6 archieve
rather than the old RV archieve which of course is the one that has the
history on the topics I was search for. Whap up side of my head..
Thanks folks
Ed
> Ed,
>
> I've used it recently just fine and I just checked it--it is working now.
>
> Of course the RV6 specific list didn't get any responses because it is new
> and I think everyone is sticking with the more general and original RV
list.
> On the RV list I just got 25 hits for "tow bar" and 400 for "primer."
Give
> it a try now and see if it works.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Michael
> Portland
> sylph(at)uswest.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Apologies to Matt for the mail on the topic of my senility in searching the
new RV-6 archive, when the historical stuff I was looking for was in the
original RV archive. Once my error pointed out , I executed another search
on "tow bars" under "RV" this time and got 30 hits. So clearly nothing
wrong with the program just the operator on this side of the key board {:>).
Thanks to all who pointed out my error.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Search Engine |
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Search Engine
>
> >--------------
> >
> >Has anyone tried using the List search engine in the last day or so. I
> >tried to search the RV-6 archieves and get no hits on "tow bar",
"primer",
> >etc., and you know we have had plenty of chat on both. Anyone else
having
> >the same problem??
> >
> >Ed Anderson
> >Matthew NC
> >--------------
>
> Ed,
>
> Are you sure that you weren't seeing those posts on the normal RV-List?
My
> account records show that there haven't been any posts on the RV6 specific
List
> in a few days. I did a search on "tow bar" and "primer 1999" in the "RV"
> archive and came back with the expected number of hits...?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
My apologies Matt, nothing wrong with the search engine, just the operator
on this side of the key board. Searching for historical things in new RV-6
archieve is just not too bright.
Ed Anderson
Matthew NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their
engines.
1. Manual plunger type primer.
2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb.
I live in the Chicago area where it has been known to get cold from time
to time.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Franklin, VA fly-In Cancelled |
EAA Chapter 339 (Norfolk, VA) Fall Fly-In Oct 9-10 has ben cancelled due
to "little" problems caused by hurricane Floyd. The airfield is OK, but
all the supporting services, telephones, motel had 3ft of water damage,
downtown 12ft, mosquitoes, etc. are not fully restored.
Call Walt Ohlrich at 757-486-5192, if you have any questions.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: priming systems |
Hi Glenn,
I live in Chicago and have an RV6A. My recommendation is forget the primer
all together. Spend your time and money installing the crankcase and
cylinder heater bands from Reiff. I have an primer valve from Aircraft
Spruce and never use it. When its cold out, I just plug in the heater for
an hour or so, and it starts easy without priming. I know a lot of people
who will start a cold engine at 10 below with the primer and no preheat,
this is not good for the engine.
Scott Johnson RV6A 345RV
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: priming systems
>
> Hi,
> I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their
> engines.
>
> 1. Manual plunger type primer.
> 2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
> 3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb.
>
> I live in the Chicago area where it has been known to get cold from time
> to time.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air scoop yikes! |
RVers,
There are a couple of other things that you might consider to help make
your bottom colw a little easier to remove and install. On my six, I
attached the baffle seal material to the top plate of the FAB airbox. The
bottom part, or "U", was attached to the fiberglass "tunnel" that the
builder fabricates with the help of the foam plug. The baffle material is
RTV'd to the tunnel and I put a couple of #6 screws on each side at the top
of the "U" to help hold things in place. Using this method makes the cowl
much easier to remove as you don't have have the seal material to contend
with when installing. We used this method on "Gillete Charlie's" 6A, as
well. Cowl removal is a bit easier on the 6A as you don't have the main
gear legs to contend with.
We also made removable inlet seals that attach on the front, horizontal
baffles with 2, #6 screws into nutplates installed on the baffles. The
baffle seal material has a metal strip that spans the inlets, latterally
and the baffle material is siliconed to this strip. These strips are
removed before the bottom cowl is dropped.
Like Scott, I've seen RVers have a heck of a time with bottom cowl
removal. Using the above mentioned modifications seems to make things go a
lot smoother. If you've installed your cowl with a really tight gap to the
spinner, you'll still have a bit of a problem and will probably scratch the
front face of the bottom cowl, but it will be hidden by the spinner. On my
six, I used to use some small pieces of the stick-on sun shade that I
carried in my tool kit and stuck this material to the front face of the
cowl and the leading edge of the gear leg fairings to help protect the
paint when removing the cowl. This sun shade material also works well for
sealing the fuel caps if you're parked outside and rain is a possibility.
I also used pieces of this material to seal the seam in the front of the
tip up canopy (before buying a cover from D.J.) and to seal the NACA vents.
Oh, and I also used it to keep the sun off my noggin:)
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
>And I would like to add that it is important to do this unless you want
>to struggle to install and remove your cowl.
>If the airbox extends all the way fwd to the scoop inlet, it is then
>actually fwd of the opening cut in the main cowl for the scoop to attach.
>This makes it impossible to lower the cowl downward because the airbox
>gets caught under the top of the inlet scoop.
>If you can't lower the cowl, it makes it very hard to get it out from
>behind the bottom half of the spinner.
>>From what I have seen on RV's at fly-in's their are lots of people
>having a hard time getting their cowls on and off, and they may not even
>know why.
>Scott McDaniels
>Former RV-6A owner
>North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
>These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
>not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wing leveler |
Don't forget. The Navaid trim is only operational when the unit is in wing
leveller mode or autopilot mode. The rest of the time, i.e. in the pattern,
just flying around, or in the mountains, when you prefer not to use the
Navaid, you will not have any trim adjust unless you install a separate
system. I have the manual trim supplied by Van's and it works just fine.
Ted French RV-6A flying
Prince George BC
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Sent: October 2, 1999 9:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Navaid wing leveler
>
> Someone please enlighten me. I have ordered the wing kit with aileron
electric
> trim. I want to incorporate the Navaid wing leveler. Is aileron trim
unnecessary
> with the Navaid? Where can I find out information/purchase the Navaid?
>
> Dave Ford
> awaiting wings
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Frozen Engine Bolts |
If you have a hand held impact wrench with the size Allen head, that
would probably be all you need. But if it is real stubborn, you will have to
use some heat.
Mechanic in Houston (enpenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Frozen Engine Bolts |
The problem with this installation is, the plugs were on the back of the
engine, and the engine is mounted, so there was not way to get a hammer in
there to hit it! I wish I knew this before I mounted it...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: MRawls3896(at)aol.com <MRawls3896(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Frozen Engine Bolts
>
> If you have a hand held impact wrench with the size Allen head, that
>would probably be all you need. But if it is real stubborn, you will have
to
>use some heat.
>
>Mechanic in Houston (enpenage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Houle <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
Hi Terry, It's Tim Houle here. Could you please email me your phone #.
Would like to take a look at your project. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
First I have no experience or schematic with the PM units, I have a
Flightcom 403. However most of the PTT setups I've seen use the PTT to
simply ground the one wire coming from the mic key line for the particular
chanel. That is why the return wire on some is connected to the outside
ring on the jack (the ground ring). Therefore you don't really need to
run two wires to the PTT. You can run just one tiny 24 ga wire and ground
the other side of the PTT switch. I guess now the challenge is to find an
easy way to go to ground inside the 1" ctrl stick.
It works on the Flightcom 403 anyway. Take another look at the schematic
and see if the key line just goes to ground.
Mike
RV-4 N996RV (open for inspection and the weather is still good :(
)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: priming systems |
I have tried all the systems to prime that you mentioned and I think the pump
type primer is most efficient and less dangerous of backfires and engine/carb
fires.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bottom skins 6a |
> I feel more confortable dimpling everything, but whenever i deviate from
>the plans, i worry that i'll regret it in the next step...anyone been there
>done that??
If you mean deviated and regretted, then I suspect many have been there,
done that.
It isn't something we can blame Van's about but a fact of life about
development, especially in a pure empirical (trial and error)
methodology. Van developed the RV series by deviation from the Stits
Playboy design. In my humble opinion, there is still room for changes to
the design before perfection sets in. Van would probably encourage
experimentation if it were not for all the lawyers circling overhead.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
I will be going to the Copper State fly-in this fri and sat and would love to
talk to RV4 owner/builder. I am just starting the canopy and firewall
forward on mine and would like to ask about a zillion questions and take a
look under the cowl. I know this is kinda of a hassel, but would be happy to
pay for lunch, some fuel, etc.
Thanks,
Warren Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder pedal (hanging) fix question |
Hi,
What does this consist of? Are there any non-weld, non-remove fixes available?
Is it a problem for all or just those who brace on the pedals when tense?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Taildragger Pull Handle |
Mike Robbins said " B.A.S. (his name is Bud) can make
one for a -6. I'm not sure where it goes in a -6,"
Mike: Thanks for the details, now I hate to admit that I lost your
original post. Do you have an address, e-mail or phone number for B.A.S.?
Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal (hanging) fix question |
I.>
> What does this consist of?
Small triangular tabs about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch at its widest. These
tabs are welded to brace each intersection where the vertical tubing meets
the horizontal tubing.
Are there any non-weld, non-remove fixes
> available?
Not that I've heard of
>
> Is it a problem for all or just those who brace on the pedals when tense?
Don't know.
>
> hal
>
>
Van's was quick in getting them back to me. Probably about a 2 week wait. I
had already installed them, but the peace of mind is worth the half day of
work in removing, re-priming, re-painting and re-installing.
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh 99 funny photo |
Here's a few pics from over the summer. Of particular interest is the
motorhome shot from Oshkosh 99. RV-4 guys ought to get a chuckle...
http://www.mwt.net/~acepilot/miscphotos.html
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV rolling wing cart for sale |
Listers,
I no longer have a need for my wing cart...which is a good thing! So, it's
available for anyone who wants to come pick it up in Albuquerque. There are
pics of it on my webpage at:
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/wing.htm
It's seriously stout, and easy to move about since it has wheels. It cost me
$65 in materials, and I'll let it go for $20, and you buy lunch and
uh...refreshments...when you come to pick it up. How's that for a deal?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
bolting on the tail....then the wings.
AEG, hangar E-13
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: priming systems |
In a message dated 10/3/99 5:50:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
<< I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their
engines.
1. Manual plunger type primer.
2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb. >>
Sorry to phase it so, but I did number 2 and am quite satisfied. ;
)
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <Douglas.Gardner(at)iac.honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument panel cutouts |
Listers..
I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
screw template.. approx. $150.00
Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
on tools and tool boxes.
What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
Thanks,
Doug Gardner -8A
Palm Harbor Fla
Interior Cabin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
I had no trouble using a flycutter and the instrument screw template. I've
heard that the flycutter does a better job because the punch distorts the
aluminum. If your panel is anything like mine, you'll spend a lot more time
on the misc. holes than the standard instrument holes. Be sure to have a
nibler and a file assortment.
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
>
>
>Listers..
>
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>screw template.. approx. $150.00
>Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
>on tools and tool boxes.
>
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A
>Palm Harbor Fla
>Interior Cabin
Doug,
I tried a borrowed megabuck instrument punch. It required MAJOR effort to
crank it through that thick panel. So, I just marked all my hole centers,
and used my fly cutter. I made test cuts on scrap aluminum, and set the
cutter for a slightly too tight fit on the instrument faces. I then finished
them off with a swivel debur tool and emery cloth. I think it worked fine,
and didn't cost tons of cash. I also borrowed the hole template, maybe you
could do the same?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
mounting and rigging the tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
Doug,
The common punches are flat and punch the whole circumference at once.
Greenlee (sp?) punches have an elliptical male cutting edge which shears
rather than punches. The Greenlee punches are much more expensive,
I recommend a fly cutter and 200 rpm or so in the drill press. Use lots of
clamps.
It is very hard to get the fly cutter radius adjusted just right. Once you
have it at the right radius (determined on many scrap trials), make a cut
1/2 way through some 0.062 stock. When you need to cut another hole that
size, use the half-cut template to adjust the radius. This will get you
repeatable hole diameters to within a few thousandths.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Gardner, Douglas (GA01) <Douglas.Gardner(at)iac.honeywell.com>
Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument panel cutouts
>
>Listers..
>
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>screw template.. approx. $150.00
>Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
>on tools and tool boxes.
>
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A
>Palm Harbor Fla
>Interior Cabin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I have an RV-8 jig, very straight, very nice. I will let it go for the wood
cost. It is located in Jupiter, Fla. 561-748-2429
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lean to peak? |
Personally, I think there is more mis-information on this subject than any
other. I have talked to many knowledgeable people about this over the past
5 years, and the people that have the most weight (aircraft-knowledge wise,
not physically) all say that you should lean small, 4 cylinder opposed
engines to peak whenever at or below 75% power. I have heard this from the
Lycoming factory, Kas Thomas, Rod Farlee, and Greg Travis, all of whom I
highly regard. This is especially true for Lycomings, which tend to have
valve problems that are exacerbated by crud building up on the valve stem.
The best way to accumulate said crud is to operate richer than peak. Why?
Because unburned fuel is flowing past valves which are *hotter* than they
would be at peak EGT. Believe it or not, your CHT temps will be the highest
at 40-100 degrees rich of peak. They will actually run cooler at peak, and
much less unburned fuel will be trying to stick to them.
To quote from the 0320 Operator's Manual: "Best Economy Cruise
(approximately 75% power or less) - Operate at peak EGT, or if desired, drop
50 degrees on rich side of peak EGT." I asked a Lycoming tech why one would
"desire" to run 50 degrees rich, and he said that a (very) few airframe
manuals suggest 50 degrees rich for addition cooling due to high CHT temps
specific to that installation. He went on to say that as long as your CHT's
stay in line you absolutely should run at peak EGT at 75% and below. And as
an added bonus you save gas. What a deal.
I have never been able to nail anyone down on a max "absolute" EGT value.
Personally, mine have never gone above 1470 in a climb and in cruise are
around 1350. I have my EGT limit set at 1480, and I have heard that a
practical operating limit is around 1550. The temp limit of a valve IS
absolute, irrespective of altitude, which is why the "100LL burning valve"
argument makes no sense to me. I don't think valves burn because of
mixture, (at or below 75%) I think they burn from poor seating due to
deposits building up on them. You are in far more danger of causing valve
sticking and seating problems by operating rich.
I too, have heard that you cannot harm an engine below 75% with the mixture
knob. I believe it. Even if you operate lean of peak, the engine runs
rough not due to detonation, but because the mixture is too lean to support
complete combustion, and all of the cylinders have a different level of
power output due to distribution inequities. Your EGT's also drop
dramatically, which is just the opposite of what they would do if you were
in fact causing detonation.
Verbosity off.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96
ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/
> Norm at Premier Engines told me that I should be running my Lycoming 100
> degrees rich of the peak temp of the highest cylinder. He says that
people
> used to say 25 or 50 degrees but with the 100LL nowadays it needs to be
> lower to insure not burning valves. He said to find peak by leaning out
> until you hear rpm drop then back up a bit.
> So, is the 100LL thing a myth? Peak temps vary with altitude. Is 1050 at
> 6,000' different on the valves than 1400 at sea level? Isn't temp limit
of
> a valve an absolute and not vary with altitude? Benedict stated that when
> under 75% power setting that mixture settings could not damage the engine.
> If this is true then why not lean to peak?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Elevator Control Stops |
Anyone have any good suggestions for installing the up elevator control
stop on the RV6.
The stop is hidden in behind bulkhead F612, and almost impossible to
mark its location or drill with the elevator horns in the way.
Also the stop will only contact one elevator horn unless I devise a
tapered stop, is that acceptable?
George McNutt, 6-A
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lean to peak? |
> > Norm at Premier Engines told me that I should be
> running my Lycoming 100
> > degrees rich of the peak temp of the highest
> cylinder. He says that
> people
> > used to say 25 or 50 degrees but with the 100LL
> nowadays it needs to be
> > lower to insure not burning valves. He said to
> find peak by leaning out
> > until you hear rpm drop then back up a bit.
> > So, is the 100LL thing a myth? Peak temps vary
> with altitude. Is 1050 at
> > 6,000' different on the valves than 1400 at sea
> level? Isn't temp limit
> of
> > a valve an absolute and not vary with altitude?
> Benedict stated that when
> > under 75% power setting that mixture settings
> could not damage the engine.
> > If this is true then why not lean to peak?
Pick up a copy of the Lycoming Flyer Key Reprints at
AirVenture 2000. Turn to Page 36 and start reading.
Read Lycoming Service Instruction 1094D.
Lycoming Flyer page 38: "First we must know that
cruise power for Lycoming normally aspirated engines
is generally considered to be 55% to 75% of the
maximum power for which the engine is rated. At these
power settings, the engine may be leaned at any
altitude." "Once cruise power has been set, leaning
to best economy should be standard procedure as damage
to engine will not occur from leaning at cruise power
settings."
I start leaning my O-320 as soon as I start the
engine. I go full rich for takeoff below 3,000 MSL.
At 1,000 AGL, I start leaning. Typical I lean till it
misses then richen till it smooths. This is very
close to peak but usually only 15-25 F of peak.
Typical EGT in climb is BELOW 1,475 F and cruise can
reach 1,600 F.
I have been operating this way for the last 2 years
430 flight hours. I had the engine apart at 307 hours
after the Ford Thunderbird ran into the airplane. No
problems found from my operation. Only problem found
was the bent crank caused by the Thunderbird.
Lycoming Flyer page 41: "Best Economy Mixture as it
relates to the EGT system begins at peak. For all
practical purposes with Lycoming engines, peak EGT is
right at the edge of the Best Economy mixture, and is
our only practical point of reference in the Best
Economy Mixture range. At the manufacturers
recommended cruise power, peak EGT causes a slight
loss of horsepower usually reflected in two or three
miles per hour of airspeed." "Best Power Mixture, or
sometimes termed Maximum Power Range, as depicted on
the EGT gage, is in the range of 100 F on the rich
side of peak." "Again we repeat that maximum leaning
(peak EGT) does not damage an engine at the engine
manufacturers recommended cruise power. Damage is
caused by maximum leaning at higher than recommended
cruise power where the manuals do not spell it out or
allow it, and when the aircraft does not have a
complete set of reliable engine instruments protecting
the powerplants."
Hope this research for you helps me in the Copperstate
Dash. I doubt that I will be the fastest 160 but sure
hope to be the fastest 160 RV-6.
Permission to reprint granted by Textron Lycoming "Key
Reprints" so long as the context of information remans
intact and appropriate credit is given.
FAA A & P
EAA Tech Counselor
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Free RV-4 Fuselage Jig |
I have an RV-4 fuselage jig in my hanger. It is free to a good home. I am
located just west of Rocky Mount, NC.
Louis Smith
Lousmith(at)aol.com
252-937-4905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A gearleg Intersection fairings |
Listers,
We have been working on some RV6A intersection fairing molds, and seem to be
coming along fairly nicely. If you are an RV6A builder or flyer and are
interested in our gearleg intersection kit, please send your email address
and snail mail address to me at F1Rocket(at)aol.com. I am putting together a
list so that I can contact you when they are complete. Prices for these will
be the same as the RV6, $150/set of 4.
Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Stops |
George, I put a .125" or so plate of aluminum for a stop. To drill it, I
drilled it with it BEHIND the aft bulkhead. Then, when riveting it, I put
in front of the bulkhead. No big deal.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
----------
> From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Elevator Control Stops
> Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 7:07 PM
>
>
> Anyone have any good suggestions for installing the up elevator control
> stop on the RV6.
>
> The stop is hidden in behind bulkhead F612, and almost impossible to
> mark its location or drill with the elevator horns in the way.
>
> Also the stop will only contact one elevator horn unless I devise a
> tapered stop, is that acceptable?
>
> George McNutt, 6-A
> Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Race |
If anyone out there is racing in the Copperstate race this weekend and
has some useful race experience they'd like to share contact me off the
list.
Thanks
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Pull Handle |
>Mike: Thanks for the details, now I hate to admit that I lost your
>original post. Do you have an address, e-mail or phone number for B.A.S.?
>
>Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com)
B.A.S. is 1-888-255-6566
Mike Robbins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rv8abuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Search Engine |
In a message dated 10/3/1999 8:37:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
charles(at)onramp.net writes:
<< Yes--Ive tried several searches and nothing came back.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rv8abuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Search Engine |
In a message dated 10/3/1999 8:37:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
charles(at)onramp.net writes:
<< Yes--Ive tried several searches and nothing came back.
>>
I've noticed that since Matt added the other archives, you have to select
"RV" in the archive list each time you do a search. Otherwise, you
automatically do a search in the aerobatic archive. Is this why you guys are
having trouble?
Jerry Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pitot tubes and brackets for Rocket builders |
Rocket and RV Listers,
I just got a new shipment of non-heated pitot tubes in. These are the "L"
shaped pitot tubes. Cost is $95.50. I also have the pitot tube bracket kits
for $55. Let me know off-line if you are interested at F1Rocket(at)aol.com.
Thanks!
Scott
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Hey Listers,
I will be at Copperstate Fly-in from October 6th through the 10th. Please
come by and introduce yourself. I would be very pleased to meet all of you
that will be there. I will have a catalog there to browse thru, or just come
by to chat. Copperstate is a fantastic Fly-in, so see you there!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Piper pitot tube wanted |
Listers,
Does anyone out there in RV land have a Piper pitot tube (blade style)
that they might wish to sell?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 dimpling all my wing parts
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
Darn,
I just deleted a post that spoke of experimentation and had
references tacked to the end of the post. The post ended with " if their
were not so many lawyers circling overhead ". Can someone send me a copy
of that post. I wanted to read the references.
Larry (too handy with the delete finger) Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling the Engine Mount |
I have a set in my engine mount when it is bolted to the firewall. For
the first time, I wish that something was not pre-drilled. The
alignment between the firewall pilot holes and the engine mount was
pretty poor. I used the Frank Justice notes, but in order to get the
pilot holes somewhere within the engine mount holes I had to tug and
push on the engine mount while drilling. I now have a set worked into
the engine mount that requires a cargo strap hooked within the mount to
get the final bolt in. I am considering cutting and rewelding, but part
of me also tells me to leave it alone for good since all the bolts are
in the mount. I can't be the first one to go through this.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Stops |
George: There was an article in the RVator 1998 fifth issue page 5, a
picture showing a better way to install a modified stop. It is for the RV-8
but could be used on the RV-6. If you can't locate the article, I will send
a copy to you.
Regards: Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB- Ready to install wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Control Stops
>
> George, I put a .125" or so plate of aluminum for a stop. To drill it, I
> drilled it with it BEHIND the aft bulkhead. Then, when riveting it, I put
> in front of the bulkhead. No big deal.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> ----------
> > From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Elevator Control Stops
> > Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 7:07 PM
> >
> >
> > Anyone have any good suggestions for installing the up elevator control
> > stop on the RV6.
> >
> > The stop is hidden in behind bulkhead F612, and almost impossible to
> > mark its location or drill with the elevator horns in the way.
> >
> > Also the stop will only contact one elevator horn unless I devise a
> > tapered stop, is that acceptable?
> >
> > George McNutt, 6-A
> > Langley B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sam's Cowl, was Landing lights, alternatives? |
Sam's phone # is 941-6754-4493. Bob Claypool finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
>Listers..
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>Thanks,Doug Gardner -8A
Doug,
From day one i've never had a problem with fly cutting, and you
probably have such a tool for making lightning holes. Just keep it moving
slowly,150 to 200 RPM, in your drill press and keep lots of oil or
coolant on it. Use a sacrificial plate under the panel so you don't go
thru the panel and cut up the table of the press.
The templates are in your acft. spruce catalog. The list has had
some bad experience with both paper and metal templates. It doesn't seem
to be the templates so much as the different radii from different brand
instruments.
Tool makers who would do this type of work from scratch would paint a dye
onto the cut surface and place the instrument face down on the panel and
use an awl
to scratch around the circle and into the mounting holes. Then they could
find the centers, center punch and drill or fly cut as needed. HTH
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
Most aluminum will cut nicely wth a router. Buy a spiral upcuttng 1/8"
dia. bit.
Make a plywood pattern of your panel. Slip a collar on your router base
and clamp pattern to panel. Cut. Finish with a fine file. Corrosion
proof it. Paint it.
Send it to me and I will screenprint all your markings very
professionally or you can stick all sorts of tacky labels all over it.
Dan Peterman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
The AN 822-4D is the little 90 degree elbow fitting that goes on the top of
the Cleveland brakes. According to the plans, it is supposed to point
forward and connect to the brake line coming down the RV-6A main gear leg.
I can get this little guy started about one full turn without much force, to
point forward with a wrench and reasonable force and get it to point aft
with some difficulty. Getting it around another 180 degrees to point
forward again seems out of the question.
This is a pipe threaded piece. Is it OK to back it off to where it points
forward or should I go back to the shop and really "crank" it another half
turn? I don't want to (a) break the fitting or (b) strip the threads in the
Cleveland brake. On the other hand, I don't want it to leak.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Learning but hopefully not the hard way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | builders bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane choice and Pilot Size |
John Chalker wrote:
>
> Hell all. I have been lurking for sometime in this group. I have one
> simple question.
>
> I am 290 pounds and 6'2''. Will I comfortably fit into an RV4, RV6 or RV8.
> I ruled out an RV3 due to Gross weight limit.
>
I am 6'2" and height-wise, fit comfortably in my -6, even with headsets on and
a
nice plush cushion. However there is not alot of excess room.
If I were any taller, I would have had to settle for a rather thin seat cushion
or would have had to modify the floor ribs to lower the seat. Both very do-able
things which would have been worth the effort if needed. I believe Vans has
also, at one time made a modified version of the -6 with a taller canopy and
larger rudder. I'm not sure what the status of that is. Call Van's and ask.
Your other option, of course is to find one and go sit in it. Then you will know
for sure.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net> |
Your best bet is to tap the thread out little bit at a time until you get
it where you want it George
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
I used the circle hole cutters from Greelee available from Home Depo. These hole
cutters are of the tooth-round-cylinder type with a removable drive adapter. I
put a particle board backing plate behind the pannel- held in with the
instrument mounting holes I marked. Used the two hole cutters 2.25 & 3 1/8 and
finished up with a cylinder drum sander that was just shy in diameter of my
holes...available in a Sears tool store. The job looks 100% & I get many
favorable comments....total cost for cutters 25$.....
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net on 10/03/99 07:00:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument panel cutouts
Doug,
The common punches are flat and punch the whole circumference at once.
Greenlee (sp?) punches have an elliptical male cutting edge which shears
rather than punches. The Greenlee punches are much more expensive,
I recommend a fly cutter and 200 rpm or so in the drill press. Use lots of
clamps.
It is very hard to get the fly cutter radius adjusted just right. Once you
have it at the right radius (determined on many scrap trials), make a cut
1/2 way through some 0.062 stock. When you need to cut another hole that
size, use the half-cut template to adjust the radius. This will get you
repeatable hole diameters to within a few thousandths.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Gardner, Douglas (GA01) <Douglas.Gardner(at)iac.honeywell.com>
Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument panel cutouts
>
>Listers..
>
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>screw template.. approx. $150.00
>Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
>on tools and tool boxes.
>
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A
>Palm Harbor Fla
>Interior Cabin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling the Engine Mount |
Chris:
I had the same problem. On mine, the pilot holes were 1/4". What I did was
got two of them to line up, put a 1/4" bolt through a brass bushing that had
a 1/4" ID, and a 3/8" OD, and put it into the mount. This assures that
these two holes were in the center of the two holes on the mount. Now just
use the mount as a template to widen the rest of them. You don't want to
have preload on the mount when you drill it. There is a picture of this on
my website,
http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
Good luck..you are not the first to go through this!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 1:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
>
>I have a set in my engine mount when it is bolted to the firewall. For
>the first time, I wish that something was not pre-drilled. The
>alignment between the firewall pilot holes and the engine mount was
>pretty poor. I used the Frank Justice notes, but in order to get the
>pilot holes somewhere within the engine mount holes I had to tug and
>push on the engine mount while drilling. I now have a set worked into
>the engine mount that requires a cargo strap hooked within the mount to
>get the final bolt in. I am considering cutting and rewelding, but part
>of me also tells me to leave it alone for good since all the bolts are
>in the mount. I can't be the first one to go through this.
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A finish
>Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
Call Steve Davis and see what he would charge. If you have it all done in
Panel Planner, and all he has to do is put it on the CNC machine, it may not
be that expensive, and all of your holes and squares will fit each
instrument/avionics absolutely perfectly. His work is very precise, and
reasonable.
Here is his website:
http://members.aol.com/panelcut/
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Gardner, Douglas (GA01) <Douglas.Gardner(at)iac.honeywell.com>
Date: Sunday, October 03, 1999 10:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument panel cutouts
>
>Listers..
>
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>screw template.. approx. $150.00
>Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
>on tools and tool boxes.
>
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A
>Palm Harbor Fla
>Interior Cabin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
If anyone is interested, I had a problem with one of my HS-813PP mount
brackets. It was apparently bent incorrectly at the factory and I did not
catch it until I tried to mount the HS skeleton to the jig. The offending
bracket's hole is not in-line with it's mate, so it needs to be replaced...
I Guess I need to learn how to drill out rivets anyway! I have contacted
Van's regarding a replacement, and have started on the VS in the mean
time... I have pictures of the bracket and my empennage progress on my web
site:
http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor/logbook/emp/index.htm
Bill Von Dane
-8A empennage
bvondane(at)atmel.com
http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
> The AN 822-4D is the little 90 degree elbow fitting that goes on the top of
> the Cleveland brakes. According to the plans, it is supposed to point
> forward and connect to the brake line coming down the RV-6A main gear leg.
> I can get this little guy started about one full turn without much force, to
> point forward with a wrench and reasonable force and get it to point aft
> with some difficulty. Getting it around another 180 degrees to point
> forward again seems out of the question.
One turn does not seem far enough to me. Make sure the fitting is lubricated
before insertion in the brake caliper. Use fuel lube or some kind of anti seize
compound on the treads of the fitting. One trick is to install the fitting as
tight as you dare, remove it and install it again. With each installation the
fitting will go in a little deeper
Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling the Engine Mount |
Paul,
I did precisely that and used the bushing. I used all the tricks I could find,
including yours. It is now drilled so it's to late, but trying to center any
two holes put at least one of the others *outside* the engine mount holes -
unacceptable. So, I simply took my best guess at one of them and work from
there. The preload is there, so I am trying to figure out whether to cut and
reweld or leave it alone.
Chris
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Chris:
>
> I had the same problem. On mine, the pilot holes were 1/4". What I did was
> got two of them to line up, put a 1/4" bolt through a brass bushing that had
> a 1/4" ID, and a 3/8" OD, and put it into the mount. This assures that
> these two holes were in the center of the two holes on the mount. Now just
> use the mount as a template to widen the rest of them. You don't want to
> have preload on the mount when you drill it. There is a picture of this on
> my website,
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
>
> Good luck..you are not the first to go through this!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 1:40 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
>
> >
> >I have a set in my engine mount when it is bolted to the firewall. For
> >the first time, I wish that something was not pre-drilled. The
> >alignment between the firewall pilot holes and the engine mount was
> >pretty poor. I used the Frank Justice notes, but in order to get the
> >pilot holes somewhere within the engine mount holes I had to tug and
> >push on the engine mount while drilling. I now have a set worked into
> >the engine mount that requires a cargo strap hooked within the mount to
> >get the final bolt in. I am considering cutting and rewelding, but part
> >of me also tells me to leave it alone for good since all the bolts are
> >in the mount. I can't be the first one to go through this.
> >
> >Chris Browne
> >-6A finish
> >Atlanta
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
I am just finishing the sliding canopy on my -6. My last problem to
overcome are the two rear pins. They are very tight in the plastic blocks
after the front latch pulls the canopy up snug. I can not open the canopy
by just unlatching and pulling the latch back. I have to tug a little on
the rear. This will not be possible after I permanently attach the rear
skirt. No problem from inside; I just push up and back on the rear.
The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins. Tom @
Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution?
Once I finish this plane, I WILL want to get inside.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 Getting ready to fit wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rv8abuild(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plane choice and Pilot Size |
In a message dated 10/4/1999 9:27:22 AM Central Daylight Time,
john.chalker(at)infoseek.com writes:
<< I am 290 pounds and 6'2''. Will I comfortably fit into an RV4, RV6 or RV8.
I ruled out an RV3 due to Gross weight limit. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | empenage fairing mold |
Will the person who has our empenage fairing that is used as a mold to
make a one layer laminate please contact me at: bskinner(at)vcn.com
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling the Engine Mount |
Black & Decker Bullet bits helped me drill & locate the centers for me. BE SURE
TO REAM to final size with a quality reamer ( the mount & the aircraft ) after
your centers have been properly found. The Drill bit does a bad job of hole
roundness & sizing when compared to a reamer...I didn't appreciate this untill
I
saw the difference & Now I am a beleiver.....hope the tid-bit helps
rv8er(at)home.com on 10/04/99 04:30:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
Chris:
I had the same problem. On mine, the pilot holes were 1/4". What I did was
got two of them to line up, put a 1/4" bolt through a brass bushing that had
a 1/4" ID, and a 3/8" OD, and put it into the mount. This assures that
these two holes were in the center of the two holes on the mount. Now just
use the mount as a template to widen the rest of them. You don't want to
have preload on the mount when you drill it. There is a picture of this on
my website,
http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
Good luck..you are not the first to go through this!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 1:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
>
>I have a set in my engine mount when it is bolted to the firewall. For
>the first time, I wish that something was not pre-drilled. The
>alignment between the firewall pilot holes and the engine mount was
>pretty poor. I used the Frank Justice notes, but in order to get the
>pilot holes somewhere within the engine mount holes I had to tug and
>push on the engine mount while drilling. I now have a set worked into
>the engine mount that requires a cargo strap hooked within the mount to
>get the final bolt in. I am considering cutting and rewelding, but part
>of me also tells me to leave it alone for good since all the bolts are
>in the mount. I can't be the first one to go through this.
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A finish
>Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: priming systems |
> Hi,
> I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their
> engines.
>
> 1. Manual plunger type primer.
> 2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
> 3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb.
>
I have installed option 2.
GPZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling the Engine Mount |
I just got off the phone with Tom. The engineering staff maintains that the bolt
holes are compression joints, so the hole size in the firewall is *not* critical.
Yeah, I was surprised too, but he suggested that I pick one or two offending holes
and open them up. His points included an engine mount replacement which would
likely require that the holes be enlarged for the new mount. So, the message seems
to be "don't sweat it" even if some the holes are figure eights coz they don't
line
up. Hmmmmmm...
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Black & Decker Bullet bits helped me drill & locate the centers for me. BE SURE
> TO REAM to final size with a quality reamer ( the mount & the aircraft ) after
> your centers have been properly found. The Drill bit does a bad job of hole
> roundness & sizing when compared to a reamer...I didn't appreciate this untill
I
> saw the difference & Now I am a beleiver.....hope the tid-bit helps
>
> rv8er(at)home.com on 10/04/99 04:30:12 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
>
>
> Chris:
>
> I had the same problem. On mine, the pilot holes were 1/4". What I did was
> got two of them to line up, put a 1/4" bolt through a brass bushing that had
> a 1/4" ID, and a 3/8" OD, and put it into the mount. This assures that
> these two holes were in the center of the two holes on the mount. Now just
> use the mount as a template to widen the rest of them. You don't want to
> have preload on the mount when you drill it. There is a picture of this on
> my website,
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm
>
> Good luck..you are not the first to go through this!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 1:40 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Drilling the Engine Mount
>
> >
> >I have a set in my engine mount when it is bolted to the firewall. For
> >the first time, I wish that something was not pre-drilled. The
> >alignment between the firewall pilot holes and the engine mount was
> >pretty poor. I used the Frank Justice notes, but in order to get the
> >pilot holes somewhere within the engine mount holes I had to tug and
> >push on the engine mount while drilling. I now have a set worked into
> >the engine mount that requires a cargo strap hooked within the mount to
> >get the final bolt in. I am considering cutting and rewelding, but part
> >of me also tells me to leave it alone for good since all the bolts are
> >in the mount. I can't be the first one to go through this.
> >
> >Chris Browne
> >-6A finish
> >Atlanta
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Burlington Fly in |
Since no one has rendered a report Iwill.
It was bigger than ever with around 50 to 60 RVs. The field had 69 planes
total.
Scott Risan brought the blue RV-6A, which I note now sports the weird wing
tips which look like a WW I plane in planform. It also had one of those LRI
( I think) AOA instalations on the left wing outboard. A hole top and
bottom.
Electric Bob's talk was extremely well received. Thanks Bob. Somehow I
couldn't break through the swarm of fans long enough to thank him for the
great job. Vetterman gave his usual great talk on exhaust systems, as did
Bob Brashear. Unfortunately the Orndorffs had to cancel at the last moment
due to a death in the family. Sorry Becki.
The hit of the day in my opinion was Doc Baker's fuselage and John STewart's
award winning plane. They had a great forum and were assisted by a Sherwin
Williams factory rep, who answered a lot of questions re painting.
It was a good turn out, although too many left early due to forecast high
winds. As it turned out no damage was incurred.
Thanks to all who showed up and sorry I missed talking to very many.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling the Engine Mount |
>
>I just got off the phone with Tom. The engineering staff maintains
>that the bolt holes are compression joints, so the hole size in the
>firewall is *not* critical.
I received the same feedback. I did have one bolt hole that was just just a
little elongated after getting them all drilled on my firewall, so I filled
that side of the hole up with JB Weld and clean-drilled the hole the next
day. I knew it wasn't necessary, but I just felt a little better about it
after doing it.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA 727MF (reserved)
RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl
Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
In a message dated 10/4/99 10:44:45, racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins. Tom @
Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution? >>
P. S. Always listen to Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
In a message dated 10/4/99 10:44:45, racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins. Tom @
Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution? >>
Almost everyone puts some kind of handle on the outside. Mine is a piece of
the ubiquitous 3/4 angle which is rivetted to the rear of the left side skirt
toward the rear. It provides just enough tug to get it started. it is
oriented for maximum streamlining and to allow an upward and rearward tug.
It is rounded and looks great, but then it is my baby. The fanciest I have
seen is a retractable ring cabinet pull which is too sexy for words. It is
heavier than mine but may be less drag.
Everyone's is different. If I ever build another I will paint a donald duck
and have the tab be his bill :+)
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
Rick,
Most folks rivet a short piece of aluminum angle to the side skirt near the
rear to use as a hold/pull. I put one on each side in the last two holes
holding the side skin to the canopy frame.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting.....still"
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy
>
>I am just finishing the sliding canopy on my -6. My last problem to
>overcome are the two rear pins. They are very tight in the plastic blocks
>after the front latch pulls the canopy up snug. I can not open the canopy
>by just unlatching and pulling the latch back. I have to tug a little on
>the rear. This will not be possible after I permanently attach the rear
>skirt. No problem from inside; I just push up and back on the rear.
>
>The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins. Tom @
>Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution?
>
>Once I finish this plane, I WILL want to get inside.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 #24187 Getting ready to fit wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth... |
Gary and others,
I use the same method as Gary for priming parts in my basement during the winter
months. One problem to watch out for with the cross-ventilation method is that
if your exhaust fan is sucking out more air than the open window across the
room can supply, then other holes in the house will compensate for the lack
of air. The most likely source for the extra supply will come from the path of
least resistance: furnace/boiler vents, and fireplace chimneys. This can cause
a problem with carbon monoxide from the heating supply and smoke from the
fireplace (if it is burning, don't ask me how I know!)
My recommendation would be to open the exhaust window a 1/4 of the way, and open
the supply window all of the way. I also made partitions out of 2x4's and plastic
vapor barrier, including a plastic ceiling on the floor joists above.
This has been very effective at keeping odors out of the rest of the house.
Scott Kuebler
RV-6a (wings)
Buffalo, NY
>>> Gary Zilik 10/02 5:02 PM >>>
Up here at 8480 MSL in Pine Junction, CO I have the same problems with priming
in the winter. I also have an unfinished basement and have used it year round
for priming. The secret is to keep fresh air flowing through the basement at all
times. In the end of the basement I use for priming I have installed a box fan
in the window. The fan is mounted on plywood that fits the window opening and is
simple to install/deinstall. I then go to the other end of the basement, and
open up another window about 1/4 open. I fire the boiler up to keep the basement
warm and start painting. The cross flow through the basement set up by the fan
and open window is more than enough to keep the smell from going places it is
not supposed to be. I adjust the fan speed as necessary to keep the flow just
right since I am pumping $$$ through the boiler heating the outside world. This
has worked great even at 22 below zero. I once opened an upstairs window
thinking the flow down the stairs would help keep the smell going outside.
Worked great, but froze my wife's prize plant sitting near the open window. We
do learn from our mistakes.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Pine Junction, CO - Winter is on it's way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Frozen Engine Bolts |
Paul:
I would use penitrating oil, then buy the cheap impact tool set with the
3/8 drive so you can use a socket allen wrench, then use a torch( be
carful with the heat) then use the impact,
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
========================================================
>I have some 5/16 Allen head bolts that are where the oil cooler
>connects to,
>and they are absolutely impossible to get out. I have used a pretty
>hefty
>Allen wrench with a breaker bar on it, and they won't budge...any
>ideas?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Its is one of those pieces of al( strip) that gets a part number on the
drawings but not on the part.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
=====================================================
>
>i am building a rv-6. cant find w-623.do you fabricate it or what.it
>goes at
>the outb.end of the fuel tank.also how does it fasten to tanks.
>
> TCRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Schemes... |
Hi all...
i have been recieving a large number of e-mail on how i did the sample paint
schemes on my web site, so I have added information on how you can do it for
yourself on my web site: http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor/paint/index.htm
HAVE FUN!
Bill Von Dane
-8A empennage
bvondane(at)atmel.com
http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
>
>The AN 822-4D is the little 90 degree elbow fitting that goes on the top of
>the Cleveland brakes. According to the plans, it is supposed to point
>forward and connect to the brake line coming down the RV-6A main gear leg.
>I can get this little guy started about one full turn without much force,
to
>point forward with a wrench and reasonable force and get it to point aft
>with some difficulty. Getting it around another 180 degrees to point
>forward again seems out of the question.
>
>This is a pipe threaded piece. Is it OK to back it off to where it points
>forward or should I go back to the shop and really "crank" it another half
>turn? I don't want to (a) break the fitting or (b) strip the threads in
the
>Cleveland brake. On the other hand, I don't want it to leak.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>Learning but hopefully not the hard way
>
Steve - Have you used Fuel lube on the threads? You should have the threads
lubed and they will seal better and allow you to get the last rotation you
need to line up everything. You should not loosen a pipe thread to obtain
alignment. That would leave the joint slightly loose and allow a possible
leak.
Hope this helps.
Doug Murray RV-6 Plumbing inder the cowl
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
Rick,
It sounds like the hole in the block does not match the angle of the pin. I
found an easy way to get the holes custom drilled in those UHMW blocks, so you
can try two new blocks and refit them as follows. Basically the technique
involves wood blocks, a miter box, and a drill press. First, take a wood block
the same size as the UHMW block and drill a compound angle hole in the block
using the tilt table on the drill press for the first angle, and a 7 degree ( I
think) wedge of wood 90 degrees to the table angle to set the other. A drill
press vice is handy. Place the block on the pin and close the canopy. Watch
how the block goes into U-bracket. Adjust the angles as necessary until you get
a block that slides easily into the bracket. I found I needed 4 or 5 wedges of
various angles and used about 6 wood blocks or so. When you are happy, drill a
UHMW block, place it on the pin and close the canopy. Then clamp the block into
the bracket and recheck the fit by opening and closing the canopy. When you are
happy, drill through the block.
BTW, I found that the pins were welded to differents angles - one was 7 and the
other 4 degrees. If you use this technique, the pins should slip into the
blocks without binding. You should wait until you are happy with the fit of the
rear part of the slider to drill these blocks since there is no adjustment once
these are mounted.
Chris Browne
-6a finish
Atlanta
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> Most folks rivet a short piece of aluminum angle to the side skirt near the
> rear to use as a hold/pull. I put one on each side in the last two holes
> holding the side skin to the canopy frame.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting.....still"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 12:29 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy
>
> >
> >I am just finishing the sliding canopy on my -6. My last problem to
> >overcome are the two rear pins. They are very tight in the plastic blocks
> >after the front latch pulls the canopy up snug. I can not open the canopy
> >by just unlatching and pulling the latch back. I have to tug a little on
> >the rear. This will not be possible after I permanently attach the rear
> >skirt. No problem from inside; I just push up and back on the rear.
> >
> >The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins. Tom @
> >Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution?
> >
> >Once I finish this plane, I WILL want to get inside.
> >
> >Rick Caldwell
> >RV-6 #24187 Getting ready to fit wings
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
>I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
>panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
>screw template.. approx. $150.00
>Heck, what's another 150 tacked to the $3800 I've already spent
>on tools and tool boxes.
>
>What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A
>Palm Harbor Fla
>Interior Cabin
this is a message I sent to the list about a month ago.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
=====================================================
Just got my instrument panel back from the water cutting machine.
Reamit Tech (the Company) cut 8-3 1/8 & 10 - 2 1/4 holes for me for
$30.00.
I was thrilled, the DG is a ATI-3 square hole & the 2 with 7 o'clock cut
outs were done. I sent Chuck the dimensions based on Center & bottom of
the panel & he did that CADCAM thing. I used a dial caliper & looks like
he held .002 of inch tolerance. The radius of the 7 0'clock cut-outs
were off a LITTLE (that is a rv builder's term) cause I can't read a
radius gauge.
I plan on trying to find the mounting holes with a center drill & use
flush head screws. If anyone has a better approach , please let me know.
Reamit Tech has a web at
Chuck Rearic .or. Kevin wright
817-461-8048
FAX = 8049
Arlington, Tx
I have received 4 of my NEW Van's gauges & they are great.
I have 2 new SW fuel gauges for sale. After VAn came out the new line, I
wanted all the gauges to match.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their engines.
> 1. Manual plunger type primer.
> 2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
> 3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb. >>
I have method #2 and it works quite well. I plummed it to the front two
cylinders (if they are firing, the rest of the cylinders are going to follow
right along) and it works well. Not putting one in I think is not a good
idea; you won't need it until you need it. One of these days, you will be
out in the cold, having tied down outside, with the engine warming system
not plugged in (sorry, sir, we can't plug that in out here. Fire codes, you
know.)(?). After you get all the ice off your wings, you will ask your
also-cold battery to crank over a cold engine and be thankful you had the
extra help of the primer system.
Just my opinion, after having done just that..............
There are also some archival discussions on using the accelerator pump.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian(at)ibelmore.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV6 Fuselage Jig in the UK |
I have a Fuselage Jig available in West Sussex, UK
Made of Wood, only one Fuselage built.
Ian Belmore
G-RVIB
Fuse out of Jig (at last!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
I purchased firewall insulation from TeamRocket and the 3X4 foot sheet weighs
10 pounds. That seems extremely heavy to me. How much does the insulation
Orndorf and others sell weigh?
Bernie Kerr, 6A wings and gear mount bolts in, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot tube wanted |
I tried some salvage places for mine, but no luck. Finally, had to by a new
one at about the same cost as the Cessna type. Good luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot tube wanted |
I bought mine a couple of years ago from Wentworth. Right around $50 I think.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: priming systems |
>>I am curious what the majority of people are doing to prime their engines.
>
>> 1. Manual plunger type primer.
>> 2. Valve & electric fuel pump to prime
>> 3. No primer system. Just using the accelerator pump from the carb. >>
>
>I have method #2 and it works quite well. I plummed it to the front two
>cylinders (if they are firing, the rest of the cylinders are going to follow
>right along) and it works well. Not putting one in I think is not a good
>idea; you won't need it until you need it. One of these days, you will be
>out in the cold, having tied down outside, with the engine warming system
>not plugged in (sorry, sir, we can't plug that in out here. Fire codes, you
>know.)(?). After you get all the ice off your wings, you will ask your
>also-cold battery to crank over a cold engine and be thankful you had the
>extra help of the primer system.
Consider a 4-port version of #2. It has some decided advantages which
include (1) no fuel lines and fittings inside the cockpit for primer
system and (2) if you put a needle valve in the system, you can calibrate
the primer flow rate so that the engine will run at some useful power
setting with the mixture at cutoff. If you plumb the primer system directly
to the engine from what you plan to be the fullest tank throughout the
flight,
you have a redundant fuel delivery system that will function if the main
delivery system is cut off for any reason.
Had a builder put this system in his Long-Ez a about 8 years ago and
he called me a year so so later to report that it kept him airborne
to an airport after the mixture control on his carburetor had come
unhooked.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutouts |
You could buy your own hole punch. If using a flycutter I suggest you
clamp the panel to a piece of plywood and then proceed to cut slowly.
The plywood gives you extra leverage to hold onto incase the flycutter
digs in.
lm4(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> >Listers..
> >I'm contemplating making my own panel cutouts on my -8 instrument
> >panel which means purchasing the 2 1/4, 3 1/8 hole cutter, and the
> >What do others do ?? Gulf Avionics quoted $300.00 to cut the panel.
> >Thanks,Doug Gardner -8A
>
> Doug,
> From day one i've never had a problem with fly cutting, and you
> probably have such a tool for making lightning holes. Just keep it moving
> slowly,150 to 200 RPM, in your drill press and keep lots of oil or
> coolant on it. Use a sacrificial plate under the panel so you don't go
> thru the panel and cut up the table of the press.
> The templates are in your acft. spruce catalog. The list has had
> some bad experience with both paper and metal templates. It doesn't seem
> to be the templates so much as the different radii from different brand
> instruments.
> Tool makers who would do this type of work from scratch would paint a dye
> onto the cut surface and place the instrument face down on the panel and
> use an awl
> to scratch around the circle and into the mounting holes. Then they could
> find the centers, center punch and drill or fly cut as needed. HTH
>
> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Friend of mine is still looking for a wing kit for RV-6/A at any stage
of construction. Respond to jrdial@hal-pc.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net> |
Listers,
How many RV6 builders were able to keep the weight of the completed airplane
to 965 pounds?
How was the airplane equipped? What steps did you take to avoid an
overweight airplane?
Thank You,
Charlie Oglesby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "V. E. Welch" <Vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | IFR Maintenance Requirements |
Gentlemen,
I am weighing the pros and cons of equipping my aircraft for IFR work. As
part of the decision making process I am looking into the maintenance
requirements. Could some of you who have aircraft equipped for IFR share
some of your experiences to include approximate costs?
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot tube wanted |
Charlie: I live close to an airplane junk yard, I will check for you if any
are available, do you want it heated or not? I want one myself also, I used
one on my last home built. Let me know off line if you are still looking for
one and how much you want to pay.
Harvey Sigmon RV6-QB Installing wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 1999 9:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Piper pitot tube wanted
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone out there in RV land have a Piper pitot tube (blade style)
> that they might wish to sell?
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 dimpling all my wing parts
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/03/99 |
JUST A HINT
BEFORE CLOSING YOUR LANDING GEAR BOXES
INSTALL THE FUEL VENT LINES. I DIDN'T AND AM FIGHTING THEM NOW.
GOOD LUCK..............ED 80127
________________________________________________________________________________
Can somebody help please?
What is Copperstate?
I assume it is an RV fly-in in Pheonix.
I would like to get a good look at a bunch of RV's.
Is this the place?
Thanks
Bob Graves
Flibob(at)aol.com
RV-8 emp
Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Yes you are correct. It is a fairly large fly in, usually with 30-40 RV's
each year, plus warbirds, airshows, etc, etc. You can get info at:
http://www.copperstate.org.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: FLIBOB(at)aol.com <FLIBOB(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 12:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Copperstate
>
>Can somebody help please?
>What is Copperstate?
>I assume it is an RV fly-in in Pheonix.
>I would like to get a good look at a bunch of RV's.
>Is this the place?
>Thanks
>
>Bob Graves
>Flibob(at)aol.com
>RV-8 emp
>Indianapolis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Scott Van Artsdalen |
Scott...
Got your email...replied to you at unionsafe.com....bounced back to me.
Do you have another address?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <dave(at)davebarnhart.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth... |
>Seriously though, I need a good "safe" way to prime my parts....
Here's how I turned my garage into a paint booth:
1. The garage has a side dor opening to the outside. I bought enough
furnace filters to cover the entire door, and taped them in place.
2. I bought four of the 22-inch box fans, placed them in line with the
garage door, and closed the garage door on them. I blocked the remaining
space on both sides of the fans with some plywood.
The fans would pull the (filtered) air in through the side door and create
a very nice airflow down the length of the garage and out through the fans.
Just prior to painting I would spray the floor and walls down to keep down
the dust.
I painted the entire airplane in there, one part at a time, and I get LOTS
of compliments on the paint job.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures |
Listers,
I finally got some pictures taken of the RV6 Gearleg fairing kit (includes
the intersection fairings). This is not the RV6A yet, just the -6. If you
would like to see a picture of them, please email me and I will forward off
the list. Tomorrow (Tuesday) will be the last day that I can email them to
you for awhile since I will be at the Copperstate Airshow and then right
after that will be at Arlington, TX for the Southwest Regional Airshow. For
those of you that live in the Southeast, we will also have someone at the
Southeast Regional Flyin as well. I look forward to meeting all of you at
one of these flyins...please come on by. I will have some intersection
fairings and gearlegs fairings on display, as well as some other stuff that
is compatible for the RVs.
Scott
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane choice and Pilot Size |
Hi!
Will you fit? In short, likely, but it depends. In my rookie years at
OSH, I helped several hundred into Van's static RVs. People truly are
built differently; some 6'5" guys fit better than 6'2" others. It really
depends on how your height and weight are proportioned. The best way to
find out is to sit in one, making careful observation of that particular
seat position and cushion thickness...
FWIW, I'm tall at 6'3" with somewhat long legs, 190lbs even distribution.
I've flown/rode in front/back/left/right in all RV seating arrangements,
except RV-3 :-(, all with STANDARD 3" cushions, some with booster cushions,
all fit "fine" or better.
~Jeremy jwb(at)europa.com
Coming November 1 to the Web...it's what you've been waiting for...
Disclaimer: My opinions are mine only and don't represent any company.
>>
>> Hell all. I have been lurking for sometime in this group. I have one
>> simple question.
>>
>> I am 290 pounds and 6'2''. Will I comfortably fit into an RV4, RV6 or RV8.
>> I ruled out an RV3 due to Gross weight limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot tubes and mounting Brackets |
I received a large order of two different kinds of HEATED Pitot tubes
recently and also offer an excellent Chrome finished Mounting Bracket
Kit that will mount either pitot tube. The pitot tubes are the AN5812
type now called the PH502-12CR, and also the AN5814 pitot tube which has
a static pressure source built into it.
If you are interested in any of these items plus several other I carry,
contact me off line for a set of my product flyers and low prices.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
>
> ~Jeremy jwb(at)europa.com
>
> Coming November 1 to the Web...it's what you've been waiting for...
>
>
ohhh... stop teasing us Jeremy....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salinas Air Show |
| From: | "S. R. Hales" <hales(at)garlic.com> |
>
>Did anyone go to the Salinas Air show? I had heard Wayne Handley
>had a accident with the Turbo Raven. I seen him perform at Reno
>this year and what a show. Does anyone have details about this?
I saw Handley perform on Sat. but was not there Sun. News reports here
say he fractured two vertebrae, is undergoing surgery, and will probably
walk again. The $600,000 TurboRaven was pretty much totaled. His words
from the hospital were, "I don't want to have a negative impact on the
airshow (pun intended)."
Evidently he was near the end of his routine; loss of power is suspected
as the cause.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gforrest <gforrest(at)nwc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot tube wanted |
Charlie
I bought a piper heated pitot about a year ago from dodson international. They
have a web page at http://www.dodson.com. The cost was $125.
Jerry Forrest
LA, CA
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone out there in RV land have a Piper pitot tube (blade style)
> that they might wish to sell?
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 dimpling all my wing parts
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Pins on Sliding Canopy |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>I am just finishing the sliding canopy on my -6. My last problem to
>overcome are the two rear pins. They are very tight in the plastic
>blocks
>after the front latch pulls the canopy up snug. I can not open the
>canopy
>by just unlatching and pulling the latch back. I have to tug a little
>on
>the rear. This will not be possible after I permanently attach the
>rear
>skirt. No problem from inside; I just push up and back on the rear.
>
>The holes in the plastic block are drilled 1/4" for the 1/4" pins.
>Tom @
>Van's said do not enlarge them. Do I have another solution?
>
>Once I finish this plane, I WILL want to get inside.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 #24187 Getting ready to fit wings
>
I always listen very carefully to what Tom says, but, I do enlarge these
holes slightly.
One of the problems with machining/drilling UHMW plastic is that it can
creap/distort. Drilling a hole with a 1/4 " drill doesn't usually leave
you with a 1/4 " hole (try and slip the drill bit in to the hole after
drilling it and you will see what I mean).
I use a drill index of number and letter indexed drill bits to go up
slightly in size to get a slip fit as required.
I then use a tapered reamer or a counter sink cutter and counter bore the
outer portion of the hole to give the pins something bigger to aim at
(the canopy can move around quite a bit when it is opened because of prop
blast / gusty winds / etc.)when it is being closed. You will still have
a close fit on the pin in the lower portion of the hole (still meeting
Tom's recommendation).
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal (hanging) fix question |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
>What does this consist of?
-
Welding on 8 small gussets.
-
Are there any non-weld, non-remove fixes
>available?
-
Yes. Inspect the rudder peddle assy. at regular intervals (and don't
abuse them).
-
>
>Is it a problem for all or just those who brace on the pedals when
>tense?
-
Lets just say that only a "few" sets have been returned to Van's with
damage.
Also testing showed that as originally supplied the peddle assy met the
FAR 23 requirement for rudder peddle strength by 150%.
BTW... one of the first customers who broke his peddles (and started the
ball rolling on this whole thing) broke them again after having the
gussets welded on...Hmmm.
But if pilots are able to break them (regardless how strong they are)
A fix has been made available to prevent a failure from becoming a safety
situation.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
In a message dated 10/4/99 4:53:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Kerrjb(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I purchased firewall insulation from TeamRocket and the 3X4 foot sheet
weighs
10 pounds. That seems extremely heavy to me. How much does the insulation
Orndorf and others sell weigh? >>
The lightest stuff costs the most. The FF30AHT7 Soundcoat polyimide foam
that some of us have used is about $200 for a sheet that will do two 6/6As.
It is aluminized mylar backed, 96" X 48" X 3/4" thk piece weighs less than 5
lbs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures |
Send a pic to me if you would, Scott...I will put it up on my website, too..
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com <F1Rocket(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 2:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures
>
>Listers,
>
>I finally got some pictures taken of the RV6 Gearleg fairing kit (includes
>the intersection fairings). This is not the RV6A yet, just the -6. If you
>would like to see a picture of them, please email me and I will forward off
>the list. Tomorrow (Tuesday) will be the last day that I can email them to
>you for awhile since I will be at the Copperstate Airshow and then right
>after that will be at Arlington, TX for the Southwest Regional Airshow. For
>those of you that live in the Southeast, we will also have someone at the
>Southeast Regional Flyin as well. I look forward to meeting all of you at
>one of these flyins...please come on by. I will have some intersection
>fairings and gearlegs fairings on display, as well as some other stuff that
>is compatible for the RVs.
>
>Scott
>Team Rocket
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Salinas Air Show |
In a message dated 10/4/99 10:32:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net writes:
<< Did anyone go to the Salinas Air show? I had heard Wayne Handley
had a accident with the Turbo Raven. I seen him perform at Reno
this year and what a show. Does anyone have details about this? >>
My boss was there and said that Wayne was doing his trademark steep (almost
straight down) approach with the Turbo Raven in beta and maybe rounded out
too late at the bottom, nearly pancaking in. No apparent indications of
mechanical difficulty but hard to know for sure. He is reportedly in serious
condition with spinal injuries.
He has been one of our favorites over the years and all of our good thoughts
are with him following this unfortunate incident.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
So NOW he tells me :=)
I followed your discussion of your ignition problems with great interest.
Gremlins are a fascinating part of any kind of mechanical creation. I am
new to aviation, but was a "gearhead" in high school and roadraced grand
prix motorcycles from age 16 to 25 so have a good feeling for
troubleshooting. It seems that you inadvertantly broke the cardinal rule
of
engine tuning. You changed more than one thing at a time. If you had
noticed the worn mag parts and said, "ok I'll change them after testing the
electronic ignition" your problems would have been obvious.
I am writing this not to criticize you, you did what probably 98% of us
would have done. (including me) I just find it amusing. I guess, your
trials have allowed me to remember some similar mistakes that I have made,
and chuckle at myself.
Thanks for the post. It has reminded me of the importance of not making
more that one "improvement" at a time. I don't subscribe to the realtime
list, so if you think this could be of value to others, please post this
for
me. Thank you.
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
I am posting this for Glen Gordon of Surrey B.C. who is not on the
Rv-list.
Glen made the first flight in RV-6 C-GGJG on October 3rd from the
Langley B.C. 1900 foot runway.
Weather was perfect for a first flight and the aircraft performed
flawlessly. Glen played hookey from work today and was still wearing the
RV grin while making a few adjustments before his second flight.
C-GGJG is 0-360 powered with C/S prop and full panel .
George McNutt 6-A
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Chalker <john.chalker(at)infoseek.com> |
| Subject: | Plane Choice and Pilot Size |
I want to say thanks to everyone who replied to my thread. Great responses.
I have narrowed it down to an RV8 or a Rocket. Now all I need to do is
strap both on for feel. :o)
My wallet is dreading the $60,000 test flight :o)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures |
Please e-mail me the photo's of the int. fairings
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
George,
Please relay to Glen:
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (about to start the canopy)
Niantic, CT
***************************
>From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 23:34:59 -0700
>
>
>I am posting this for Glen Gordon of Surrey B.C. who is not on the
>Rv-list.
>
>Glen made the first flight in RV-6 C-GGJG on October 3rd from the
>Langley B.C. 1900 foot runway.
>
>Weather was perfect for a first flight and the aircraft performed
>flawlessly. Glen played hookey from work today and was still wearing the
>RV grin while making a few adjustments before his second flight.
>
>C-GGJG is 0-360 powered with C/S prop and full panel .
>
>George McNutt 6-A
>Langley B.C.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plane choice and Pilot Size |
I'm 5'4" I'll use a thick cusion. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth... |
I used the same method on a show car. It worked great for me to.
M Rawls (Just finished Enpenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
The insulation we sell weighs 1 pound per linear foot (4 x 1) so the same
size piece of ours would weight 3 pounds. Let us know if we can help you.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
I choose NOT to use the insulation because I wanted to view the
firewall,engine-mount-brackets, passthru-holes I drilled, chaffing points,
rudder peddle area(s), evidence of smoking rivets, leaks-----whatever. I figured
the insulation in everyother aircraft I owned was more of a problem than a help.
I prefer to be able to eyeball the area for problems. As far a noise is
concerned- these aircraft are a noisy lot to begin with---for 79.00$ I went to
the kit noise canceling headsets-- converted on my Dave Clarks--noise problem
solved. Weight problem solved- no heavy insulation, Safety problem solved-no
insulation to mask problems, Heat problem solved- I can add another heat muff
inline to my single heat muff if additional heat is required (the heat that may
have stayed if I insulated). Just an opinion.....
Kerrjb(at)aol.com on 10/04/99 05:08:58 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: How much does the firewall insulation weigh?
I purchased firewall insulation from TeamRocket and the 3X4 foot sheet weighs
10 pounds. That seems extremely heavy to me. How much does the insulation
Orndorf and others sell weigh?
Bernie Kerr, 6A wings and gear mount bolts in, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PM1000II Harness PTT Wiring |
I bought a PS 501 and I got the wiring harness from PS Engineering. They
did not include wire for the PTT switch, and I like you are wonding how to
do this. By the way the wiring harness through Vans from PS Engineering was
$90.00. Vans was a little shocked, as Vans only charge $50.00 to do the
radio harness!
Bob Busick
>I asked PS Engineering these questions and they suggested I buy the harness
>from them. I hope listers will be more informative!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WAYNE HADLEY |
B. Reg.No.: 17HE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP/1998 GILES G-750 (TURBO
RA
Activity: Other Phase: Maneuver GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: DURING AN AIRSHOW PERFORMANCE, THE ACFT WAS EXECUTING A LOOP, THE
PILOT DID NOT PULL UP IN TIME TO COMPLETE THE MANEUVER, AND THE
ACFT CRASHED NORTH OF RWY 26 ON A PARALLEL TAXIWAY, SALINAS, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Post-mortem on the Engine Mount |
Well, I made a discovery last night. Seems that the engine mount
distorts when it is torqued unevenly (DUH!). It was drilled in relaxed
state, but I was attempting to insert and torque the bolts as I went. I
was torquing the nuts and then trying to install the bolts, but as I
messed with the mount last night I found that the more I torqued the
bolts on the bottom of the mount, the worse the alignment was for the
last few bolt holes. I discovered that with the mount relaxed (the way
it was drilled) I could get the bolts in with only a little fiddling and
I had to do only a little filing on one hole. With the mount merely
resting on the firewall with the nuts loose the mount slid on the
bolts. Since the mount was drilled in a relaxed state, this shouldn't
have been a suprise, I guess, and I can live with it.
For anyone who hasn't drilled the mount, I think that Tom's advise is
well taken about the pilot holes. A little anti-sieze on the bolts
helps alot, too
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairing Pics |
I have posted a picture of Team Rocket's intersection and gear fairings at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/gear.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Scott Van Artsdalen |
Sorry, I'm doing some upgrades to our network. I am here now.
Alternatively you can send mail to svanarts(at)jps.net or scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott [mailto:acepilot(at)mwt.net]
Sent: Monday, October 04, 1999 6:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Scott Van Artsdalen
Scott...
Got your email...replied to you at unionsafe.com....bounced back to me.
Do you have another address?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Scott Van Artsdalen |
Sorry about that. Been working on our firewall. Try svanarts(at)jps.net or
scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott [mailto:acepilot(at)mwt.net]
Sent: Monday, October 04, 1999 6:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Scott Van Artsdalen
Scott...
Got your email...replied to you at unionsafe.com....bounced back to me.
Do you have another address?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | 0320-A1A For Sale |
Posting for a friend:
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A1A Complete
0 SMOH
New Slick Mags & Harnesses
New Carb
New Prop Governor
New Vacuum Pump or Hyd Pump
Alternator
Starter
Fuel Pump
All logs since new
Rebuild by local reputable shop
$ 12,500 FOB Phoenix, AZ
Plug N Play...
You can reply to me and I'll forward.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GStorey826(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures |
Scott: e-mail photo's of the intersection fairings. Reference our e-mail
Monday 10/4/99.
G. Storey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures |
I have posted these pics at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/gear.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: GStorey826(at)aol.com <GStorey826(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Gearleg and Intersection fairing Pictures
>
>Scott: e-mail photo's of the intersection fairings. Reference our e-mail
>Monday 10/4/99.
>G. Storey
>RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
George: Have you ever run any flammability tests on the insulation you sell?
I've done some very unscientific tests on some of the other very light
insulation by using a match held to a small piece for an ignition source. The
aluminum mylar backing (or the adhesive, not sure which) on that material
continued burning vigorously after the match was removed.
Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Consultant3, Cmtsd" <cmtsd.consultant3(at)cmtsd.mea.com> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot tubes and mounting Brackets |
Hi Warren,
I received your product flyers a while ago, but I'm embarrassed to say
that I've misplaced them. If you would be so kind as to send them to me
again, I promise not to lose them again.
Thanks,
Ken Brown
4440 Date Ave.
La Mesa, CA 91941-6415
-----Original Message-----
From: Warren Gretz [mailto:gretz_aero(at)h2net.net]
Sent: Monday, October 04, 1999 8:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot tubes and mounting Brackets
I received a large order of two different kinds of HEATED Pitot tubes
recently and also offer an excellent Chrome finished Mounting Bracket
Kit that will mount either pitot tube. The pitot tubes are the AN5812
type now called the PH502-12CR, and also the AN5814 pitot tube which has
a static pressure source built into it.
If you are interested in any of these items plus several other I carry,
contact me off line for a set of my product flyers and low prices.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8list-fitting fuel tanks built by Aviacomp |
Fellow 8ers:
I had my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp. I am having some difficulty getting
them to fit properly in relation to the leading edge skins on top and the
pre-drilled holes on the main spar.
There is about an 1/8" gap on the top and yet the bottom skins butt right up??
I also can't seem to pull the tanks down far enough on the spar to reach the
pre-drilled holes. I have used the cargo straps and all the muscle I have
Help!!
Len in NC
8A, ready to skin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8list-fitting fuel tanks built by Aviacomp |
>From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: rv8list-fitting fuel tanks built by Aviacomp
>Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:45:11 EDT
>
>
>Fellow 8ers:
>
>I had my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp. I am having some difficulty getting
>them to fit properly in relation to the leading edge skins on top and the
>pre-drilled holes on the main spar.
>
>There is about an 1/8" gap on the top and yet the bottom skins butt right
>up??
>
>I also can't seem to pull the tanks down far enough on the spar to reach
>the
>pre-drilled holes. I have used the cargo straps and all the muscle I have
>
>Help!!
>
>Len in NC
>8A, ready to skin wings
Len,
You did fully drill all the tank components to the wing before sending the
parts to be sealed, right? Even after doing so, it's not uncommon to have
them not fit quite right after the sealing process. Sometimes the sealant
can build up around the end rib and interfere with the splice plate at the
leading edge skin. I had to file the plate a bit so my tanks would seat up
snug against the l.e. skin. Difficulties with the tank fit at the main spar
and wing skins can be due to excessive sealant used during the tank rear
baffle and Z-brackets installations.
I know this doesn't help correct the situation very much, but maybe it will
lead you to places to look for the cause.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
mounting and rigging tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
In a message dated 10/5/99 6:53:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
The aluminum mylar backing (or the adhesive, not sure which) on that
material
continued burning vigorously after the match was removed.
>>
The insulation offered by Team Rocket is the same insulation used in the new
Boeing Aircraft and is not flamable. The weight of the 3-ply material is
alittle heavier, but offers alot of noice dampening. We also have the 2-ply
and single-ply, which obviously is considerably lighter. All of these are
flame resistant.
Scott
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Canopy Rivits |
RV6 tilt canopy rear section. The manual says to open holes to #19 size
then pop rivit. I did not open them up ( Left them at 1/8"). Should I
drill out the rivits and open the holes up.
I was told the only holes that needed opening where those where screws
are used.( to protect the plexiglass from the sharp edges of the screw
threads.)
I have noticed everytime I stand on the wing there is creeking sounds
from the rear canopy area, I guess the fuselage is slightly twisting and
transmitting this to the plexiglass.
Just passed final inspection should fly next week.
Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wire holes in VS |
Listers, I'm thinking about drilling holes for future wiring through my ribs
in the VS. Was considering drilling out the forward tooling holes to
7/16ths. I'm not putting any lights up there, but may want to add an
antennae there, eventually. Are most of you putting your wires in the
forward end of the ribs or the aft end? Will it matter later on during
assembly with fuse? I'll consider any info before drilling my ribs. Thanks.
Troy Black
-8 emp.
Great things have humble beginnings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: wire holes in VS |
TBRV(at)aol.com wrote:
> Listers, I'm thinking about drilling holes for future wiring through my ribs
> in the VS. Was considering drilling out the forward tooling holes to
> 7/16ths. I'm not putting any lights up there, but may want to add an
> antennae there, eventually. Are most of you putting your wires in the
> forward end of the ribs or the aft end? Will it matter later on during
> assembly with fuse? I'll consider any info before drilling my ribs. Thanks.
I'm not sure about -8 VS construction; I'm building a -6. And I built my
VS some years ago, so I'm vague on details. But anyway,...
The -6 VS has 2 ribs forward of the forward spar and 3 ribs aft (or
maybe vice versa?). I drilled a set of holes both forward and aft of the
forward spar, so that wherever's easiest is where my wiring will go (if
I ever put any in).
Before rivetting the VS skin on:
1. Put a grommet in the hole in the middle rib.
2. Feed pull-strings through all the holes.
Frank.
RV-6 fuselage out of the jig
Marton, NZ.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Weight problem solved- no heavy insulation, Safety problem
>solved-no
>insulation to mask problems, Heat problem solved- I can add another
>heat muff
>inline to my single heat muff if additional heat is required (the heat
>that may
>have stayed if I insulated). Just an opinion.....
>
>
I am not meaning to be an advocate for firewall insulation ( I am always
preaching keep the planes light), but insulation
on the firewall is worth while if you can avoid adding lots of weight.
The reason is that the main heat problem that you need to solve is to
keep the heat on the front (engine) side of the firewall.
Keeping heat in the cockpit is not a problem without firewall insulation
since it stays some what warm in the engine compartment. I don't think
firewall insulation was ever meant to help keep the cockpit warm. I
think it is generally to insulate the cockpit from the heat and the noise
of the engine compartment.
The problem is that in the summer (particularly places that get quite
hot) you can feel the heat radiating off of the bare metal firewall.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
I like the 1" thick Orcotek strip blanket available from ACS. The 20" x
30" piece I have left over weighs about 5 ounces, according to my
little household scale. One drawback is that the FAR certified tape,
which they recommend for this stuff, is pretty pricey. (It sticks great,
though)
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
Scott & others,
Which side of the firewall is the better place? I've seen both.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Tank Brackets F696 |
Today we (my wife and two other RV-ers) mounted the wings. They fit!.
Incidence within 1/10 degree and leading edges collinear to within 1/16 inch
(as measured with 4 plumb bobs and a horizontal string). Good edge distance
on rear spar AN5 bolt and nice fit with N-drill followed by 0.3100 ream. 17
people hours.
The F696 tank mounting brackets (heavy triangles out of 1/4 angle) don't lay
flat against the fuselage skin. The included angle is about 98 degrees.
How have others fixed this. Is there a way to bend the angle stock outward
8 degrees?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Tank Brackets F696 |
>The F696 tank mounting brackets (heavy triangles out of 1/4 angle) don't
lay
>flat against the fuselage skin. The included angle is about 98 degrees.
>How have others fixed this. Is there a way to bend the angle stock outward
>8 degrees?
Yes, you have to bend it. I used a vice, a 2x4, and a big hammer. Don't try
to bend
it at the angle itself (!) just try to bend the outward facing leg close to
the angle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Seat Bottoms |
>F639 and F640 forward seat bottom pieces are .040 thick. Plans call for #8
>screws. Can I use my #19 dimple die or must I machine countersink these
>thick skins?
Dimple.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Canopy Rivits |
Peter, In my A&P training, we learned all holes in plexi need to be
oversize to allow for the large coefficient of thermal expansion the plastic
has. The rivets or screws should be centered in the holes, too; but this is
difficult to get accomplished. I used a 5/32" plastic drill for the 1/8"
rivits. The consequenses of not drilling your holes oversize is unknown for
certain but why take the chance of having your canopy creak after you get it
flying. I'm sure you will not want to take the plane out of service for
lengthy repair once you got it finished.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 just finishing slider & preparing wing installation
>From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Rear Canopy Rivits
>Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 19:19:10 -0400
>
>
>RV6 tilt canopy rear section. The manual says to open holes to #19 size
>then pop rivit. I did not open them up ( Left them at 1/8"). Should I
>drill out the rivits and open the holes up.
>
>I was told the only holes that needed opening where those where screws
>are used.( to protect the plexiglass from the sharp edges of the screw
>threads.)
>
>I have noticed everytime I stand on the wing there is creeking sounds
>from the rear canopy area, I guess the fuselage is slightly twisting and
>transmitting this to the plexiglass.
>
>Just passed final inspection should fly next week.
>
>Regards Peter (RV6 Toronto)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? |
The firewall insulation we sell meets FAR 25.853b which specified flame
retardant qualities. It also will not absorb water or oil.
Just as an aside, read this FAR if you can find it on the web. Flame
retardant does not mean something will not burn.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Plastic Stuff... |
Hi all...
I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic to
come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
I put some new pix of my VS up on the web this morn...
Later!
-Bill Von Dane
bvondane(at)atmel.com
-8A empennage
http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Tank Brackets F696 |
A vice & a long 3 or 4 foot stout bar was used to put some "english" on the
angle to bend it. Like the previous poster stated apply pressure at the end of
the angle to bend it. Remember to bend a little past the needed angle due to the
relaxing of the material after pressure is withdrawn. Its easier than you think.
randallh(at)home.com on 10/06/99 01:22:33 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Tank Brackets F696
>The F696 tank mounting brackets (heavy triangles out of 1/4 angle) don't
lay
>flat against the fuselage skin. The included angle is about 98 degrees.
>How have others fixed this. Is there a way to bend the angle stock outward
>8 degrees?
Yes, you have to bend it. I used a vice, a 2x4, and a big hammer. Don't try
to bend
it at the angle itself (!) just try to bend the outward facing leg close to
the angle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
There is a device called AccuCutter that is basically a precision steel
bluck that hold a single edge razor blade so that only the very tip is
exposed. It is adjustable and can be set so that it will only cut the
plastic and not touch the metal. A very handy tool. Available from any
good sign supply outfit for about 20bucks. Try
Http://www.tubelite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
Bill . . . cover the rivet area with regular masking tape. Run a rounded
tip soldering iron down both sides of the masking tape, "melting" the
plastic. Pull this section off and you are done. You end up with a nice
straight line on both sides of the pre-punched holes . . . of course all of
the plastic comes off sooner or later. Also, DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE PLASTIC
ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE SKINS.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 7:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Plastic Stuff...
>
>Hi all...
>
>I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic to
>come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
>
>I put some new pix of my VS up on the web this morn...
>
>Later!
>
>-Bill Von Dane
>bvondane(at)atmel.com
>-8A empennage
>http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Tank Brackets F696 |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
> Is there a way to bend the angle stock outward 8 degrees?
I bent them before cutting them to shape. Set them on the concrete
floor, V side up. Hit them with several good blows with a 4 lb hammer.
Distribute the blows along the V. Recheck the angle.
When they are "perfect, remove the "bow" in the legs with your 6 in
table belt sander to make the legs flat. What, you don't have a table
belt sander!
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, getting the instrument panel cut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | -6A Brakes lines |
I would like to finish routing my brakes without the wings on, but I'm
not sure where the 90 degree AN fitting should go (the drawing is
ambiguous). The Justice notes say, in part:
"The elbows should be placed far enough forward of the F-602 bulkheads
so they do not interfere with the later placement of the F-696 tank
attach angles ... The elbow is not placed right next to the gear leg
because there is a gap between the fuselage skin and the heavy gusset in
this area and tightening the elbow in place deflects the skin"
I guess I am looking for a place which is sure not to interfere with
rigging the wing. I have seen at one installation on the fitting near
the gear leg (I think it's Gary Zilik's). Is the location pretty
flexible?
Also, I decided to replace the soft 3003-0 Versatube tubing for the
pressure lines inside the cockpit with 5052-0 coz the former is so easy
to damage. How does the 3003 stuff hold up on the landing gear and at
the caliper?
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Used Squeezer... |
--- Richard White wrote:
Dick,
Did you get my mail regarding this squeezer?
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
Bill
Use a soldering iron with a fat tip. A cheap radio shack one will work
fine.
>
>I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic to
>come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
>
>-Bill Von Dane
RV8 80274 Wings & Moving House
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Seat Bottoms |
> F639 and F640 forward seat bottom pieces are .040 thick. Plans call for #8
> screws. Can I use my #19 dimple die or must I machine countersink these
> thick skins?
There is no problem dimpling the .040 aluminum. If in doubt, test the dimpling
process on a piece of scrap. Now for the #8 screws. If you look closely at the
plans you will see that the callout is for AN515-8R8 screws and K1000-8
nutplates. These are not countersunk screws. This area gets covered with seat
cushions and will not be seen so the extra work installing AN509 screws will not
be appreciated by others
Gary Zilik
RV-6A -
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
You will have to lose the plastic when you prime all of the pieces BEFORE
riveting. You can leave it on when you drill the skeleton if you are worried
about scratches. If you were planning on priming after assembly you would
miss every area where two pieces meet each other. Those are the areas that
need priming the most. You have to ask yourself if you are trying to build
the best aircraft possible. Then again you could live in a very dry climate
where priming isn't that important.
Just my opinion, I am NOT an expert.
Norman
> I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic to
> come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
Just take it all off...It really doesn't matter..you should sand the skin to
prep when you paint anyway, so most scratches are a non-issue. I am about
to paint my wings, and have taken 320 grit sand paper on a dual action
sander to prep it, and if there was a scratch or two, they are non existent
now.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 1:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Plastic Stuff...
>
>Hi all...
>
>I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic to
>come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
>
>I put some new pix of my VS up on the web this morn...
>
>Later!
>
>-Bill Von Dane
>bvondane(at)atmel.com
>-8A empennage
>http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Seat Bottoms |
> This area gets covered with seat
> cushions and will not be seen so the extra work installing AN509
> screws will not be appreciated by others
>
> Gary Zilik
May be something to think about, though, if you'll be using seat-pack
parachutes on a regular basis...
Mike Thmopson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Angling instruments on panel |
I would like to angle mount the engine instruments on my panel and was
looking for ideas. Anyone have pix on the web that shows how this is
done?
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Used Squeezer... |
Mike...
I just heard from Shirley Harding in Australia, she said she wants it for
sure. Since she responded first she is going to take it. Sorry, I got your
hopes up...
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Used Squeezer...
>
> --- Richard White wrote:
>
>
> Dick,
>
> Did you get my mail regarding this squeezer?
>
> - Mike
>
> ====
> Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
> Austin, TX, USA
> RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
> EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
> PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
>
>
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
Please be careful with the razor blade tip, my quick built kit has some
unsightly cuts by the rivet lines in the wing and fuselage where it looks
like a razor blade cut was used.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- wings installed
----- Original Message -----
| From: | dann mann <aquila33(at)webtv.net> |
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 10:00 AM
>
> There is a device called AccuCutter that is basically a precision steel
> bluck that hold a single edge razor blade so that only the very tip is
> exposed. It is adjustable and can be set so that it will only cut the
> plastic and not touch the metal. A very handy tool. Available from any
> good sign supply outfit for about 20bucks. Try
> Http://www.tubelite.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angling instruments on panel |
<< I would like to angle mount the engine instruments on my panel and was
looking for ideas. Anyone have pix on the web that shows how this is
done?
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta >>
I spoke to the guys at Chief Avionics about this a while back. Basically,
they cut out the area to be angled, then fab an angled section to fit the
hole in the panel. Much cutting/fitting/welding/filling/grinding/sanding is
involved to make it look perfect.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Flat Bottom Skin Interference |
When I push the flap hinge pin through the hinge eyes on the wing it hits
the fuselage side skin about 3/16 up from the bottom. The bottom flap skins
therefore hang up on the bottom fuselage skin. My RV4 builder friends tell
me that this is a common problem and the solution is to joggle the bottom
flap skin. That seems pretty hard to do at this stage of the game!
How have other 6A and 6 builders handled this problem?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL 38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Ham and Beans Fly-In |
I would like to invite all the RV and Experimental flyers, builders and
wannabees to my 2nd annual pig roast which this year is going to be a
ham and beans feed. Time is 11:00 am on sunday October 17th. Location
is Sparta, IL (SAR). Bring a chair. Nothing is required but if you'd
like to bring a dessert or a pan of corn bread thats allright.
this is the only message youll receive and in 60 seconds this message
will self destruct.
Also for anyone who wants to come over saturday night, the beer light
will be burning and there's plenty of camping room. There is a great
place to eat and party across the street from the airport and a real
nice motel there also.
chet and miss chiquita 210 hrs now since Jan 98.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Who's RV4 at the MN Picnic? |
If you think about that trim tab carefully I believe you will understand that
it won't work. The trim tab if I am not mistaken needs to be attached to the
surface your trying to trim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Flat Bottom Skin Interference |
Dennis, I cut the bottom flap skins even with the top skins and riveted
a joggled "extension" onto the bottom flap skins that covers the gap and
the hole for the flap pushrod. The joggle is easy to do on the workbench
and you can easily toss a couple of them if necessary to get the right
joggle without booggering up the flap.
You can see a photo of the extensions here (scroll about 2/3 down the
page):
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish6.html
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-----------------
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> When I push the flap hinge pin through the hinge eyes on the wing it hits
> the fuselage side skin about 3/16 up from the bottom. The bottom flap skins
> therefore hang up on the bottom fuselage skin. My RV4 builder friends tell
> me that this is a common problem and the solution is to joggle the bottom
> flap skin. That seems pretty hard to do at this stage of the game!
> How have other 6A and 6 builders handled this problem?
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL 38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... and sanding? |
> Just take it all off...It really doesn't matter..you should sand the skin to
> prep when you paint anyway, so most scratches are a non-issue. I am about
> to paint my wings, and have taken 320 grit sand paper on a dual action
> sander to prep it, and if there was a scratch or two, they are non existent
> now.
Also non existent after sanding with 320 grit sand paper is the alclad coating
we so dearly pay for and most primers builders are using today are not very good
at corrosion protection unless sealed with a top coat. Scotch brite pads do a
wonderful job for prepping skins for paint. FWIW I left the plastic on the skins
for drilling dimpling and removed it just before prepping for interior priming.
Green scotchbright and a little soap and water gets it ready for priming real
fast.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted tank wiring & flap brace assembly RV-8 |
A while ago Scott McDaniels suggested to run the wire(s) for the
inverted tank through the z brackets which hold the tank in place.
The smallest snap-in bushings I can find are 3/8 od. Is it acceptable to
drill this hole in the first two z brackets ??
Also, on the RV-8 flap, I seem to be unable to get the requested 3/16"
dimension for the 406-A, B and C assembly. This is, I think, measured
from the (horizontal) rib flange to the outside vertical leg of FL-406C.
I can go just over 1/8" before I would get into edge-hole distance
problems. (drawing 14, RV-8, bottom right, section A-A')
I believe I have the 88 degree angle of the 406-A pretty accurate, this
would come out to be about 1/8" anyway. How critical is the 3/16" ??
Gert
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Fogersons" <rfogerso(at)ida.net> |
I have decided, with rather mixed feelings, to put my trusty N27FR up for
sale for the $ I have invested. Looking in at the rv-list the past year,
the urge to build another RV has overtaken me. You guys are just having too
much fun. I did retire a few months ago and frankly, I need something to
do. Enjoying building as much as flying the RV's, whether it sells or not
it's a win-win situation. What a deal! The only draw back is retirement
does not permit me to build and keep the RV. Anyone interested can contact
Rick Fogerson off the list at rfogerso(at)ida.net or 208-237-4143 for
specifics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angling instruments on panel |
In a message dated 10/6/99 5:08:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< I spoke to the guys at Chief Avionics about this a while back. Basically,
they cut out the area to be angled, then fab an angled section to fit the
hole in the panel. Much cutting/fitting/welding/filling/grinding/sanding is
involved to make it look perfect. >>
Laird Owens had a great prototype of a compost slanted panel at the Golden
West Fly-in. I think he was trying to determine if he could make a go at
commercializing it and he can be reached at .
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Windscreen screws |
| From: | michael d hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I am about to attach the windscreen to the rollbar of my RV-6. I want to
use some sort of threadlocker on the screws but I know Loctite will
attack the plex. I remember reading about a retaining compound that is
applied and allowed to set. The parts can then be assembled whenever
convenient. Sort of like a nylon insert. I have looked in the Archives
but no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM
Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen screws |
Mike
I believe the stuff you are referring to is Vibra-Tite made by ND
Industries. See p 99 of 18 years of the RV Ator. I haven't yet found a
source for this material, although I believe ND Industries has a web site.
Doug Weiler
----- Original Message -----
From: michael d hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 9:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Windscreen screws
>
>
> I am about to attach the windscreen to the rollbar of my RV-6. I
want to
> use some sort of threadlocker on the screws but I know Loctite will
> attack the plex. I remember reading about a retaining compound that is
> applied and allowed to set. The parts can then be assembled whenever
> convenient. Sort of like a nylon insert. I have looked in the Archives
> but no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Mike Hilger
> RV-6 N207AM
> Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inverted tank wiring & flap brace assembly RV-8 |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>A while ago Scott McDaniels suggested to run the wire(s) for the
>inverted tank through the z brackets which hold the tank in place.
>
>The smallest snap-in bushings I can find are 3/8 od. Is it acceptable
>to
>drill this hole in the first two z brackets ??
>
I have used some that fit in a 3/16 hole (hole in the plastic grommet is
about 1/8 ")
Sorry, I don't know where to get them though.
Scott McDaniels
Former RV-6A owner
North Plains OR. smcdaniels(at)juno.com
These opinions and ideas are mine alone, and they may
not reflect the opinions and ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Is anyone thinking of using or is using the RMI Micro encoder and Micro
monitor? If so, any info and/or opinions is appreciated.
Peter
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Peter Laurence wrote:
>
>
> Is anyone thinking of using or is using the RMI
> Micro encoder and Micro
> monitor? If so, any info and/or opinions is
> appreciated.
>
>
> Peter
> --
> Peter Laurence
> RV6-A Wings
> plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
After two years and 430 flying hours, I LOVE both my
Micro Monitor and Micro Encoder. I have the Micro
Encoder set up to read TRUE airspeed all the time. In
no (calm) wind, it reads the same as my Apollo GPS
ground speed. The altitue alert feature of the Micro
Encoder is also a nice feature along with the Vne and
stall alarms. Of course the Micro Monitor has alarms
for all the major engine functions including low fuel.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
You may want to check the archives on this..there are many satisfied
customers of RMI. I have both built both of them, and have some additional
information on my website:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 3:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: RMI
>
>Is anyone thinking of using or is using the RMI Micro encoder and Micro
>monitor? If so, any info and/or opinions is appreciated.
>
>
>Peter
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A Wings
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much does the firewall insulation weigh? Oct |
1999 21:0...
In a message dated 10/6/99 7:10:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net writes:
<< Scott & others,
Which side of the firewall is the better place? I've seen both. >>
You would not wish to put Rockets material on the engine side because it
would soak oil IMHO
Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Tank Brackets F696 |
In a message dated 10/6/99 7:32:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Is there a way to bend the angle stock outward
8 degrees? >>
Yep, the written words say that you have to bend it. It is very difficult to
bend after you cut the angle, so it filed away part of the back side against
the fuselage to get it flat.
Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Flat Bottom Skin Interference |
In a message dated 10/6/99 7:51:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< How have other 6A and 6 builders handled this problem? >>
One possible solution is to drop the trailing edge down the 3/16 inch to make
it flush with the fuselage skin. This will change the incidence angle on the
wing. You will have to account for this on the horizontal stab incidence so
that they keep the same relative angle to each other or you will change the
pitch stability. When you are ready to set the stab incidence, pitch the
airplane until you get the 3.03 inch difference between the top of the wing
at the butt joint over the main spar and the top of the wing over the rear
spar as shown on the plans. Now your top longeron will not be level, ignore
this and set the horizontal stab at zero angle to horizontal. This means that
your fuselage will fly at slightly less angle of attack than a nominal RV,
but I was told by Van's technical staff that it might be faster or slower
because it has never been optimised for best angle. I would check with Van's
to make sure they have not changed their position, but this is the way my
plane is but it not flying yet.
Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted tank wiring & flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Message text written by Gert:
>A while ago Scott McDaniels suggested to run the wire(s) for the
inverted tank through the z brackets which hold the tank in place.
The smallest snap-in bushings I can find are 3/8 od. <
I bought a small bag of various size rubber grommets from Radio Shack for
about a buck. The smallest used a hole of about 1/4" and held the wire
snuggly. I also secured the wire with a tie wrap so that I could not
easily tug it off the sender.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
rudder pedals
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)a1.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: WAYNE HADLEY |
From Avweb 10/04/99
WAYNE HANDLEY INJURED IN AIR SHOW CRASH
Air show star Wayne Handley was injured late Sunday when his Turbo Raven
crashed at the Salinas (Calif.) Municipal Airport. A spokesman at a
local hospital said that he was in serious condition with a spinal
injury. Witnesses said that Handley's plane crashed early in his
routine.
What can I say....
Graham Jones
Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angling instruments on panel |
original message
...."I would like to angle mount the engine instruments on my panel and was
looking for ideas. Anyone have pix on the web that shows how this is
done?"
I completely redesigned my instrument panel so the avionics are all center
stacked and slightly canted toward me, the engine instruments are to the
right of the stack and canted at a slightly greater angle, and a map box is
at the far right. The panel is made from fibreglass (using moldless
techniques) and has aluminum inserts throughout for strength. I will tell
you that this took a BUNCH of design time and extended my construction by two
months. Not only did the panel need design, but all the supporting structure
for avionics, etc. needed modification and design. I like the results (its
"cool" and more functional) and learned more about fibreglass but it is a lot
of work for modest ergonomic gains. If someone is selling a contoured
panel....buy it.
good luck on ur decision
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen screws |
> I am about to attach the windscreen to the rollbar of my RV-6. I
>want to
>use some sort of threadlocker on the screws but I know Loctite will
>attack the plex. I remember reading about a retaining compound that is
>applied and allowed to set. The parts can then be assembled whenever
>convenient. Sort of like a nylon insert. I have looked in the
Mike,
I do not see the need to lock the screws, especially if a fiberglass fairing
will be laid up over the screws. A mixture of epoxy resin and cotton flock
is mixed and smeared over the screw heads to seal the discontinuities. The
fiberglass ( or carbon fiber like I used) is laid up over this. The screws
can not turn because of the resin and are therefore locked in place.
BTW, I did not tighten these screws. I snugged them up and then backed them
out 1/2 turn. I did this to relieve stress around the screw head and allow
the plexi the freedom to grow as the temp. changes. As mentioned, the
screws are held in this position by the resin.
An aluminum fairing would also keep the screws from backing out. I don't
see why epoxy/flock can not be used under the aluminum fairng either.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 just finished the windscreen fairing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 10/06/99 creaking canopy |
My first canopy creaked like an old rocking chair. I could even hear it
when taxiing. The next canopy I built had a thin bead of silicone caulk
applied between the frame and the plexi. It never makes a sound and seems
much sturdier. Worked great for me and I plan to do the same on my current
project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)ctconnect.com> |
I bought a used 0-360 which was in a Decathalon Scout, and can't use the
exhaust system (pipes and muffler) on my -6A. If anyone wants it, I'll
give it away free if you will just pay the shipping. Might be usable
for parts, or maybe could be modified somehow. Anyway, it's a freebie.
Email me off line at wd_thomas(at)ctconnect.com.
Bill Thomas
-6A Finish Kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Windscreen screws/carbon fiber |
I do not see the need to lock the screws, especially if
a fiberglass fairing
will be laid up over the screws. A mixture of epoxy
resin and cotton flock
is mixed and smeared over the screw heads to seal the
discontinuities. The
fiberglass ( or carbon fiber like I used) is laid up
over this. The screws
can not turn because of the resin and are therefore
locked in place.
Rick,
I am considering carbon fiber for this lay up. Can you
give us some details: where did buy it, what weight, difficulties
encountered, would you do it again, etc.
Thanks.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, finish kit
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 99% -6A for sale |
A builder in the Atlanta area (Ellenwood) has decided to sell his -6a
slider project. The plane is complete except for fittng the spinner and
wheel pants. Brand new O-320 with Sensenich prop. Call for more
details.
Owner is Gary E Polizzotto, 404-523-1000
Chris Browne
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen screws |
In a message dated 10/6/99 8:29:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rvsixer(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I am about to attach the windscreen to the rollbar of my RV-6. I want to
use some sort of threadlocker on the screws but I know Loctite will
attack the plex. >>
3M 2216 epoxy might be good for this. It is tough and takes a flexible set.
Find someone building a Kitfox in your area and bum some. It's a gray
structural epoxy they use for bonding the wood ribs to the aluminum spars.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen screws/carbon fiber |
> I am considering carbon fiber for this lay up. Can you
>give us some details: where did buy it, what weight, difficulties
>encountered, would you do it again, etc.
Ken, The only drawback I normally encounter with carbon fiber is that I can
not see through the laminate. In the windscreen case, this was not an
issue. I used fiberglass for the rear canopy skirt because I needed to see
the holes that were already drilled in the steel tube underneath.
I used 5.7 oz. bidirectional plain weave carbon fiber because that is what I
had on hand. A satin weave conforms better to compound curves, but in the
windscreen case, the plain works fine because of little compound curve. I
used 4 plies of carbon and topped with one ply of 5.7 oz BID fiberglass. I
did this because the outer layer usually gets part way sanded off when in
the later filling/sanding phase. This made a laminate about 0.095 in.
thick. The plies were staggered away from the front edge to help get the
tapered front edge look.
My carbon was given to me by Charlie Grey, the composite plane expert. It
was scrap from one of his previous projects. Not much is needed for the
windscreen. The strips I cut were 2 in. wide by about 50 in. length. Since
this did not span the full bow, I butt joined smaller strips on the sides
and staggered the joints. ACS and others sell carbon. Try to buy some
scraps from a composite builder if available.
I used fiberglass for the front windscreen fairing because I did not have
enough carbon. I used carbon not to save weight, but to increase the
stiffnes of the top bow fairing. No problems encountered and would
recommend others to do the same.
Only problem I had was filling with WEST Microlight/epoxy. The
vertical/near vertical surfaces made runs that increased the number of
filling/sanding iterations. It took me a day longer to finish than
anticipated. Sunday layup thru next Sunday final 120 grit sanding.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 Fuel tank fuse. attach fitting bending today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Technique |
I think the Sport Aviation article you are referring to was 'Taming the Taildragger'.
It was more than five years ago, it was in the April/92 issue.
Wally........flying RV-3, Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Technique |
There was also a great book by the same name. It could have been a handbook
for my old Aeronca Champ. It had a lot of common sense in it for flying
tailwheel aircraft. It was a quick read too.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wallace R. Penney [mailto:wallyp(at)interlog.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 7:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Technique
I think the Sport Aviation article you are referring to was 'Taming the
Taildragger'. It was more than five years ago, it was in the April/92 issue.
Wally........flying RV-3, Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Claude Heiniger" <cheiniger(at)dplanet.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Stuff... |
Dear Paul.
Going back to my A&P years and training, we were taught never to use sand
paper on aluminum as it tends to hurt the alclad or pure aluminum on the 5%
thickness on each side of the skin and apparently could leave some stuff
inbedded. If you need to do some scuffing, scotchbrite is the way to go, as
you actually etch the skins befor the alodine.
Claude Heiniger, A&P, ATP/ CFI
Geneva Switherland,
Candidate for building an RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plastic Stuff...
>
> Just take it all off...It really doesn't matter..you should sand the skin
to
> prep when you paint anyway, so most scratches are a non-issue. I am about
> to paint my wings, and have taken 320 grit sand paper on a dual action
> sander to prep it, and if there was a scratch or two, they are non
existent
> now.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 1:33 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Plastic Stuff...
>
>
> >
> >Hi all...
> >
> >I am almost ready to skin my vertical stab... How do I get the plastic
to
> >come of in those nice thin strips where the rivets go?
> >
> >I put some new pix of my VS up on the web this morn...
> >
> >Later!
> >
> >-Bill Von Dane
> >bvondane(at)atmel.com
> >-8A empennage
> >http://members.tripod.com/rv8tor
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Seat Bottoms |
In a message dated 10/6/99 23:32:52, randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< >F639 and F640 forward seat bottom pieces are .040 thick. Plans call for #8
>screws. Can I use my #19 dimple die or must I machine countersink these
>thick skins?
>>
It has been a long time so I can't vouch for the plans; however mine has the
round head screws, which have all been replaced with stronger ones. I would
recommend using the round ones and not countersink. They are easier to get
out when you chew out the screw slots with your electric driver. Don't know
why but my experience of goobering up these screws is far greater than any
where else.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Does anyone know the thickness of the UHMW tape that Van's carries? I
think they carry both 3/4" and 3" wide tapes
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
Does anyone have experience with Poly Fiber's Smooth Prime for filling the pin
holes in the S-type cowl. Is it compatible with paints/primers other than
PF's Flight Gloss.
Are there any problems using polyester fillers such as Feather Fill on the epoxy
cowl?
Are there any good suggestions (read; easy ways) on finishing the epoxy cowl?
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>Is anyone thinking of using or is using the RMI Micro encoder and Micro
>monitor?
Check the archives. I have an encoder; wouldn't (can't) fly without it.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | constant/speed prop |
Does any one have a constant speed prop for sale. If so please contact
me off list at accuracy(at)earthlink.net or call 615-643-1030.
Thanks
Bob Baggett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | N58RV Factual Narrative |
It's posted on the NTSB website at
http://www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/LAX/lnarr_98A171.htm
There is some new info, especially regarding the elevator trim tab.
Also seems "The fitting connecting the right tank fuel line to the fuel
selector was less than finger tight and was separated from the selector
with less than three full turns." Maybe the reason for the surge?
Chris Browne
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
I'm FINALLY in a position to start up my bird and am looking for advise on
purchasing the equipment necessary to set the magneto timing. I plan on
doing my own annuals and have seen some of the stuff offered from Aircraft
Spruce such as
Magneto Timing Light, Aircraft Timing Indicator and Inductor Magneto
Sychronizer. Also there is a Slick Magneto Assembly and Timing Kit offered
(quite pricey at $260). I am planning to get an A&P to help me on the first
crack but am looking for some help on what tools/equipment I need to get
also.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Amos Bechtel <abechtel(at)agctr.lsu.edu> |
| Subject: | drilling out rivets |
List, I have finally created a problem for myself on my -8 that requires
some input from experienced rivet-men (persons?). I prematurely drove a
rivet into one of the flap brace holes in the reinforcing plates on the
root end of the rear wing spar. That in itself is no big deal because I
have become very proficient at removing rivets. What I normally do with
1/8 inch rivets, especially long ones, is to use a 1/16 inch drill bit
to drill a hole all the way through the rivet before using a larger bit
to remove the rivet head and it has worked great up to this point. The
hole through the middle of the rivet seems to make it easier to drive
out the rivet without damaging any other components. Last night,
however, I broke off that 1/16 bit in the rivet and I am now at a loss
as to how to proceed. I can't get hold of the bit to remove it. I
can't drill it out. I was considering grinding the rivet off flush with
the spar and then drilling some new holes to place new rivets in. The
problem with this last option is that the steel drill bit will still be
in there surrounded by aluminum and I am afraid this would be the start
of a corrosion problem. I would appreciate any suggestions you might
have.
And things were going so well,
Amos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Amos,
One possibility, use a nice, sharp wood chisel (the one you yell at the
wife and kids for using on anything but wood), and chisel off the
manufactured head, working around it as you cut. A flush 426 you say?
oh...maybe a pair of close nippers on the shop head to remove it, then pull
the bit of bit on through. Good luck.
Dennis #80473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Amos,
Perhaps you can access the backside and drill from there. Then you can tap
out the broken drill bit when you break thru to the other hole.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Control Column Fix |
Lister's
I am fitting my Control Column & have encountered the binding that we all
have. I have obtained the taper rod fix & it helped a bit. I still have
binding. I talked with Scott at Van's today & there is a new Control Column
that is available that solves the problem. The dimensions have been changed
to ensure a bind-free fit. One is on the way to me free of charge.
FYI.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
RV8A Wiring & Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Amos Bechtel wrote:
> Last night,
> however, I broke off that 1/16 bit in the rivet and I am now at a loss
> as to how to proceed. I can't get hold of the bit to remove it. I
> can't drill it out. I was considering grinding the rivet off flush with
> the spar and then drilling some new holes to place new rivets in. The
> problem with this last option is that the steel drill bit will still be
> in there surrounded by aluminum and I am afraid this would be the start
> of a corrosion problem.
I'd be more worried about it eventually coming out and jamming something
up. If you can't get it out, I suggest you glue it in with epoxy.
First thing I'd try and do (if the parts aren't in the jig) would be to
try shake the bit loose. Maybe use compressed air to try and blow it
out. Or a vacuum cleaner to suck it out. How about a strong magnet?
If that fails, can you get to the other side of the piece and drill off
the shop head? Basically, use the same technique as for drilling off the
factory head. It's a bit more difficult to be sure you're exactly
centred though.
Or perhaps try grinding/filing down the factory head far enough to allow
you to get a grip on that pesky bit.
Incidentally, I use a 3/32" bit for the initial hole. I drill it just to
the depth of the factory head. Usually I can break off the factory head
with an old 3/32" bit, but sometimes I have to go up to a 1/8" to get
the factory head off. Then I drill through the rivet with the 3/32" bit,
and pull the shop head and rivet remains off with a pair of pliers.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming 0320-A1A For Sale |
OK, let's try again.
Friend will take offer...
------------------------------------------
Posting for a friend:
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A1A Complete
0 SMOH
New Slick Mags & Harnesses
New Carb
New Prop Governor
New Vacuum Pump or Hyd Pump
Alternator
Starter
Fuel Pump
All logs since new
Rebuild by local reputable shop
$ 12,500 FOB Phoenix, AZ
Plug N Play...
You can reply to me and I'll forward.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Paint Quantities (again) |
Listers,
I'm a couple of weeks away from painting all of the flying surfaces on my
RV-6. No, the systems, firewall forward, etc., aren't all installed, but if
I get everything but the fuse painted before the weather turns cold, I'm sure
a warm weekend will magically appear this winter (here in the warm Atlanta,
GA climate) to let me paint the fuse when that time arrives...
Anyway, the question is: How much paint do I need to buy to paint the entire
airframe? I'm only interested in the base color (white). I'll be using
either Imron or Centari (with hardener) over variprime. I'm aware of the
advantages/disadvantages of all of these systems, so let's not digress into
THAT...
I've looked in the archives, and there are several paint quantity references.
Unfortunately, there is a wide spread, even using the same system. Also, it
isn't clear whether the posters were talking in terms of sprayable gallons or
non-sprayable gallons (before reducer, hardener, etc). Finally, the type of
spray apparatus isn't always given.
So...
If you've painted your plane (or helped someone else with theirs), send me
your experiences. I'll summarize everything and post a synopsis back to the
list in a week or two. To make the data worthwhile, include:
1) Paint system used.
2) Gallons of base color used (sprayable gallons, please).
3) Type of spray apparatus used. (HVLP or conventional.)
4) Percent coverage with base color (if you didn't go ahead and spray the
whole thing in the base color).
5) Base color.
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
Working on the slow bits...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 20:09:57 -0400 |
I am looking for a Brake Flaring Tool to use on my RV6-A project. New ones
compared to the automotive types are priced very high and we all try to
save where we can as long as it not a safety issue. Anyone have a line on a
used one ? Thanks Tom Ervin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted tank wiring & flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Soooo, all y'all saying 3/8 is too big, got the message...or are all
y'all saying i am not looking hard enough for a smaller bushing....?
Well, what about my second question re. the flap actuator assy.??
Gert
Gert wrote:
>
>
> A while ago Scott McDaniels suggested to run the wire(s) for the
> inverted tank through the z brackets which hold the tank in place.
>
> The smallest snap-in bushings I can find are 3/8 od. Is it acceptable to
> drill this hole in the first two z brackets ??
>
> Also, on the RV-8 flap, I seem to be unable to get the requested 3/16"
> dimension for the 406-A, B and C assembly. This is, I think, measured
> from the (horizontal) rib flange to the outside vertical leg of FL-406C.
> I can go just over 1/8" before I would get into edge-hole distance
> problems. (drawing 14, RV-8, bottom right, section A-A')
>
> I believe I have the 88 degree angle of the 406-A pretty accurate, this
> would come out to be about 1/8" anyway. How critical is the 3/16" ??
>
> Gert
>
> --
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
> any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV-3 engine fire - fuselage wanted |
I thought I better share today's experience in the hope that others may
learn from my mistakes.
Following Tracy Crook's advice, I tied down my RV-3 to make a full
throttle run-up of my Mazda 13-B rotary engine installation prior to any
first flight.
I ran the engine for maybe 1 - 2 minutes, shut it down, waited a couple
of minutes and did another engine run-up for another couple of minutes.
Suddenly, when throttling down, I noticed orange frames coming out my
left cowl cheek (left open - no cone). Instead of doing what I should
have done (shut off fuel pumps and turned fuel valve off and shut down
engine), I first tried to blow out the fire by adding throttle. That
produced a much bigger orange flame. By then smoke had started to appear
in the cockpit so I shut down the engine and got out, bringing my little
foam extinguisher with me. I successfully put out the fire by emptying
it into the left cowl cheek opening.
Meanwhile, the FBO line guy had arrived with a bigger extinguisher and I
had him stand by while removing the cowling.
By inspection of the engine installation I found that the oil hose had
ruptured where it passes by the exhaust pipe. Apparently the hot exhaust
pipe had ignited the oil. That fire then reached higher and melted the
(polyurethane) fuel lines near the fire wall. I'm still not sure if they
melted close or if they added fuel to the fire.
All this seemed simple to fix:
Route the oil hose further from the exhaust pipe with a heat shield in
between and add fire sleeve.
Use rubber fuel lines with fire sleeves.
However, upon closer inspection of the plane, I found that the bottom
skins of the flaps had melted. All bottom skins all the way out to the
tail wheel had deformed, and the rear bottom skin had actually torn. The
right elevator bottom (the wind had blown the flame from left to right
under the fuselage) was also deformed. The rear bottom wing skins were
also deformed for about 10 to 20 inches out on each side.
It is very possible that the damage would have been limited if I had
drilled engine fire procedure.
Seems that now I have no alternative than to:
Remove wings and tail section and truck the parts home for a fuselage
rebuild (and replacing inner wing bottom skins).
It may be easier (and safer) to simply build a new fuselage. If anybody
knows of an RV-3 fuselage kit (preferably untouched - not started) for
sale at a good price, please do contact me (finnlassen(at)netzero.com).
If anybody have any good ideas on how to repair the fuselage without
removing the rear top fuselage skin I'd be happy to hear about it.
So much for flying this Century.
Moral of the story:
Do a failure analysis of all parts of engine installation (what if?).
Drill engine fire procedure before starting engine - even for the first
time.
I lucked out - it could have been much worse - could have happened in
the air. Thanks to Tracy for saving my bacon!
Finn
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 engine fire - fuselage wanted |
Excellent advice Finn!!! Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but at the
same time it was fortunate for the reasons you mentioned (better to be
down here wishing you were up there than vice versa). I'll keep an ear
to the ground for an RV3 fuselage.
Scott
RV-4 tailkit, Wisconsin
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> I thought I better share today's experience in the hope that others may
> learn from my mistakes.
>
> Following Tracy Crook's advice, I tied down my RV-3 to make a full
> throttle run-up of my Mazda 13-B rotary engine installation prior to any
> first flight.
>
> I ran the engine for maybe 1 - 2 minutes, shut it down, waited a couple
> of minutes and did another engine run-up for another couple of minutes.
> Suddenly, when throttling down, I noticed orange frames coming out my
> left cowl cheek (left open - no cone). Instead of doing what I should
> have done (shut off fuel pumps and turned fuel valve off and shut down
> engine), I first tried to blow out the fire by adding throttle. That
> produced a much bigger orange flame. By then smoke had started to appear
> in the cockpit so I shut down the engine and got out, bringing my little
> foam extinguisher with me. I successfully put out the fire by emptying
> it into the left cowl cheek opening.
>
> Meanwhile, the FBO line guy had arrived with a bigger extinguisher and I
> had him stand by while removing the cowling.
>
> By inspection of the engine installation I found that the oil hose had
> ruptured where it passes by the exhaust pipe. Apparently the hot exhaust
> pipe had ignited the oil. That fire then reached higher and melted the
> (polyurethane) fuel lines near the fire wall. I'm still not sure if they
> melted close or if they added fuel to the fire.
>
> All this seemed simple to fix:
> Route the oil hose further from the exhaust pipe with a heat shield in
> between and add fire sleeve.
> Use rubber fuel lines with fire sleeves.
>
> However, upon closer inspection of the plane, I found that the bottom
> skins of the flaps had melted. All bottom skins all the way out to the
> tail wheel had deformed, and the rear bottom skin had actually torn. The
> right elevator bottom (the wind had blown the flame from left to right
> under the fuselage) was also deformed. The rear bottom wing skins were
> also deformed for about 10 to 20 inches out on each side.
>
> It is very possible that the damage would have been limited if I had
> drilled engine fire procedure.
>
> Seems that now I have no alternative than to:
> Remove wings and tail section and truck the parts home for a fuselage
> rebuild (and replacing inner wing bottom skins).
>
> It may be easier (and safer) to simply build a new fuselage. If anybody
> knows of an RV-3 fuselage kit (preferably untouched - not started) for
> sale at a good price, please do contact me (finnlassen(at)netzero.com).
>
> If anybody have any good ideas on how to repair the fuselage without
> removing the rear top fuselage skin I'd be happy to hear about it.
>
> So much for flying this Century.
>
> Moral of the story:
> Do a failure analysis of all parts of engine installation (what if?).
> Drill engine fire procedure before starting engine - even for the first
> time.
>
> I lucked out - it could have been much worse - could have happened in
> the air. Thanks to Tracy for saving my bacon!
>
> Finn
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Exhaust System Question |
Listers,
I am installing an IO-360 in my 6A. It looks to me that the crossover exhaust
system
sold by Van's is going to get in the way of the servo. I am also installing
the Sam James Cowl which has an air scoop that is already part of the cowl
(not separate like Van's). So...I need to line up the servo directly with the
scoop. I don't think this is possible using the High Counrty Exhaust System.
I may be wrong...but at a look at this and I think I am right. So my
question is....Is there any other exhaust systems available that are not
crossover type? If so who would I contact to find one of these creatures?
Finally, has anyone out there used this particular combination of engine,
servo (Bendix) and cowl.
Bob Claypool. 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 20:09:57 -0400 |
Check with your local EAA Chapter. Many have a tool library. Mine does!
>
>I am looking for a Brake Flaring Tool to use on my RV6-A project. New ones
>compared to the automotive types are priced very high and we all try to
>save where we can as long as it not a safety issue. Anyone have a line on a
>used one ? Thanks Tom Ervin
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Question |
RClayp5888(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am installing an IO-360 in my 6A. It looks to me that the crossover exhaust
> system
> sold by Van's is going to get in the way of the servo. I am also installing
> the Sam James Cowl which has an air scoop that is already part of the cowl
> (not separate like Van's). So...I need to line up the servo directly with the
> scoop. I don't think this is possible using the High Counrty Exhaust System.
> I may be wrong...but at a look at this and I think I am right. So my
> question is....Is there any other exhaust systems available that are not
> crossover type? If so who would I contact to find one of these creatures?
> Finally, has anyone out there used this particular combination of engine,
> servo (Bendix) and cowl.
> Bob Claypool. 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
>
Bob,
Our chapter president has a -6 with an exhaust that Larry Vetterman made
for him that is not a crossover. He had to modify his cowling where
pipes exit cowling. He says it really opens up the bottom of the engine
compartment. Talk to Larry, he more than likely has the patterns ready
and wait'n.
Jerry Calvert
-6 wings & fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
Paul, I love your website, it will be a great help to me as I am also
building a 6QB. After viewing your site I went as far as filling out an
order form for the RMI engine monitor. But then I found the "Engine
Monitoring System" on Aircraft Spruce's webpage. I once saw a picture of
this devise installed in a One Design (in Sport Aviation). This system does
everything that the RMI does (except OAT, clock and Amps) and costs less than
half the price ($489, most sensors included) and comes ready to install.
(like with the RMI, the fuel totalizer sensor is extra, but I dont know its
cost)
Can anyone comment on this system?
I also like the RMI encoder, but it just seems so much cheaper (and at least
as reliable - if not more so) to install a blind encoder and analog
instruments. Do you really find it that useful? Do you find its digital
altimeter to be as accurate as a good analog one? Did you install the
compass feature? If so, do you find it to behave more like a CDI or a
Whiskey?
Thanks again for your website.
Dave Leonard
6QB Wings (on Hold)
> You may want to check the archives on this..there are many satisfied
> customers of RMI. I have both built both of them, and have some additional
> information on my website:
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm
>
> Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tire stem access |
Some time back someone posted information on the spring loaded button that
was used for the tire stem access hole. I just spent a half hour searching
the archives and could not find the info. SO: Where do I find this
creation????? (Wicks and A.S.S. do not have it.) Thanks
Ed Storo RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Move on to something else making yourself a note to come back to this
later. Or even, fix the bit so it can't pop out and so it serves as a very
high strength rivet and get on with it.
Is this your only mistake so far?
hal
>however, I broke off that 1/16 bit in the rivet and I am now at a loss
>as to how to proceed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Pics |
I have put together a page that will have daily updates on the Copperstate
fly in. Thursday's section will be empty, as the fly in was just filling
up. Beginning Friday night, I will be updating the site nightly at
approximately 4 A.M. Zulu (GMT.)
It will be:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
Wish y'all could be here!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy track cap cover |
In a message dated 10/7/99 8:10:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< A while back someone was making the aluminum caps that cover the canopy
intersection of the rear skirts. Anyone remember who that was. Of course they
more than likely got rich off this and retired to Maui. >>
Alas, I neither got rich, nor went to Maui. Worse yet, I'm fresh out of the
little critters, so I guess that'll teach you to procrastinate. I could make
more, but I need a hydraulic press (I worked at Lockheed when I made the
first 100 pieces and had access to a dandy 50 tonner). I'll let the list
know if I get some more made, but until then you're on your own, unless
someone wants to scalp one they bought previously or worse yet make one out
of (shudder) fiberglass.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Thanks for the compliments on the site...as far as the Engine Monitoring
System, I don't have any experience, but I think there is a "get what you
pay for" break point. It seems that the RMI stuff is closest you can get
without loosing quality. Since I have built both of the RMI units, I know
the quality is excellent. I have heard many, many excellent testimonials on
their products, and none on the Engine Monitoring System.
As far as the encoder is concerned..think of the instruments it replaces,
VSI, Encoder, OAT, Density Altitude, and it provides warnings that you can
preset. I can not comment personally on its accuracy, but have heard that
it is worth much more than it costs. You are looking at $400 for a VSI and
encoder, so the additional $500 is worth it for the other functions and
quality. Not to mention, it looks really sharp in a panel...you wouldn't
believe how many "what the heck is that thing" comments I get when people
come by to see my project.
Take it FWIW, as I am not flying, and am commenting solely on the experience
of other builders.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com <VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 4:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMI
>
>Paul, I love your website, it will be a great help to me as I am also
>building a 6QB. After viewing your site I went as far as filling out an
>order form for the RMI engine monitor. But then I found the "Engine
>Monitoring System" on Aircraft Spruce's webpage. I once saw a picture of
>this devise installed in a One Design (in Sport Aviation). This system
does
>everything that the RMI does (except OAT, clock and Amps) and costs less
than
>half the price ($489, most sensors included) and comes ready to install.
>(like with the RMI, the fuel totalizer sensor is extra, but I dont know its
>cost)
>
>Can anyone comment on this system?
>
>I also like the RMI encoder, but it just seems so much cheaper (and at
least
>as reliable - if not more so) to install a blind encoder and analog
>instruments. Do you really find it that useful? Do you find its digital
>altimeter to be as accurate as a good analog one? Did you install the
>compass feature? If so, do you find it to behave more like a CDI or a
>Whiskey?
>
>Thanks again for your website.
>Dave Leonard
>6QB Wings (on Hold)
>
>
>> You may want to check the archives on this..there are many satisfied
>> customers of RMI. I have both built both of them, and have some
additional
>> information on my website:
>>
>> http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm
>>
>> Paul Besing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Brakes lines |
In a message dated 10/7/99 9:43:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
cebrowne(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I would like to finish routing my brakes without the wings on, but I'm
not sure where the 90 degree AN fitting should go (the drawing is
ambiguous). The Justice notes say, in part:
"The elbows should be placed far enough forward of the F-602 bulkheads
so they do not interfere with the later placement of the F-696 tank
attach angles ... The elbow is not placed right next to the gear leg
because there is a gap between the fuselage skin and the heavy gusset in
this area and tightening the elbow in place deflects the skin" >>
Don't believe everything you read. Drill the heavy gusset for mounting the
fitting and open up the skin oversized for your socket wrench. The archives
have the dimensions where I placed my fittings.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tire stem access |
In a message dated 10/7/99 10:13:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ERSF2B(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Some time back someone posted information on the spring loaded button that
was used for the tire stem access hole. I just spent a half hour searching
the archives and could not find the info. SO: Where do I find this
creation????? (Wicks and A.S.S. do not have it.) >>
Wicks has it listed on page 146 of their 1999 catalog, P/N KM713-16-064
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Bronze finger screen (filter) |
Greetings.
Does anyone have an address/tel/web site where I can purchase some screens
from, I will need these to manufacture the fuel pick-up hoses.
RV-6 Empenage, Wings in mind
David Roseblade
UAE - Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 engine fire - fuselage wanted |
look on Barnstormers.com I seen a couple of RV-3s forsale there the other day.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Bronze finger screen (filter) |
David: Van's sells a finger strainer pickup for inside the fuel tank in
the accessory catalog page 26. I replaced the ones that come with my QB. I
hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon -RV-6AQB-Wings on
----- Original Message -----
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 3:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bronze finger screen (filter)
>
> Greetings.
>
> Does anyone have an address/tel/web site where I can purchase some screens
> from, I will need these to manufacture the fuel pick-up hoses.
>
> RV-6 Empenage, Wings in mind
>
> David Roseblade
> UAE - Persian Gulf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
Gary,
In the archives, you'll find many different ways discussed. All have pro's
and con's. However, if you want to get it done quick and inexpensively, try
this.
Go to an automotive parts store and buy a big tube of spot putty. This is
not bondo, but a spot surfacing putty in an aluminum tube. Get yourself a
wide putty knife. Put a big blob of putty in a spot and spread it around
with the knife, pressing it into the surface. Put a very thin coat on.
Cover the entire surface this way.
In about an hour, you can wet sand the cowl smooth. Re-apply if necessary
to cover any missed spots. The surfacing putty is very easy to sand and
will sand smooth with very little effort.
I finished my entire s-glass cowl in about two hours.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting....still"
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers
>
>Does anyone have experience with Poly Fiber's Smooth Prime for filling the
pin holes in the S-type cowl. Is it compatible with paints/primers other
than
>PF's Flight Gloss.
>
>Are there any problems using polyester fillers such as Feather Fill on the
epoxy cowl?
>
>Are there any good suggestions (read; easy ways) on finishing the epoxy
cowl?
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Question |
In a message dated 10/07/1999 10:57:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RClayp5888(at)aol.com writes:
<< installing an IO-360 in my 6A >>
Consider an exhaust system by Sky Dynamics, Kevin Murray, 1900 Skyway Drive,
Moneta, VA (540 297-6754)
He does the most beautiful metal work on exhaust systems. Most of the
significant aerobatic-airshow planes have his systems.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 (n44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Question |
Vetterman sells straight pipes (kit) for your -6 that may fit your needs. I have
used the straight pipes on a rv-4 & rv-6
(my current & prior projects). I like the sound the straight pipes make & the
simplicity of the set-up. I also didn't want the cross over pipe under the
cowl......the heat radiated from the cross-overs I didn't want. Some folks like
the "performance " the cross overs give however I am skeptical of the real world
performance/claimed gain. I do however agree on the "textbook" reason of the
gain...... Try the straights..they may fit your application...cheers
calverjl(at)flash.net on 10/07/99 11:37:36 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust System Question
RClayp5888(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am installing an IO-360 in my 6A. It looks to me that the crossover exhaust
> system
> sold by Van's is going to get in the way of the servo. I am also installing
> the Sam James Cowl which has an air scoop that is already part of the cowl
> (not separate like Van's). So...I need to line up the servo directly with the
> scoop. I don't think this is possible using the High Counrty Exhaust System.
> I may be wrong...but at a look at this and I think I am right. So my
> question is....Is there any other exhaust systems available that are not
> crossover type? If so who would I contact to find one of these creatures?
> Finally, has anyone out there used this particular combination of engine,
> servo (Bendix) and cowl.
> Bob Claypool. 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
>
Bob,
Our chapter president has a -6 with an exhaust that Larry Vetterman made
for him that is not a crossover. He had to modify his cowling where
pipes exit cowling. He says it really opens up the bottom of the engine
compartment. Talk to Larry, he more than likely has the patterns ready
and wait'n.
Jerry Calvert
-6 wings & fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Timing |
Be sure your mag drive gear(s) are properly torqued & cottered...mine were not
!!!! Sounds like you have all the tools. I ordered the weighted pointer can that
rubberbands onto the spinner.....be sure your timing marks on your starter ring
jive with your imperical (static) measurements...i.e. no one changed out the
starter ring, cam mis allignment ect. . BTW does anyone know the propeller
placement on crank relative to the timing marks ? I think I have read the 2
O'clock--8 O'clock position at shutdown is "correct".......is this more fiction
than fact ?
fesenbek(at)marykay.com on 10/07/99 02:34:34 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Magneto Timing
I'm FINALLY in a position to start up my bird and am looking for advise on
purchasing the equipment necessary to set the magneto timing. I plan on
doing my own annuals and have seen some of the stuff offered from Aircraft
Spruce such as
Magneto Timing Light, Aircraft Timing Indicator and Inductor Magneto
Sychronizer. Also there is a Slick Magneto Assembly and Timing Kit offered
(quite pricey at $260). I am planning to get an A&P to help me on the first
crack but am looking for some help on what tools/equipment I need to get
also.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Question |
Hi Bob:
I am assuming that when you are talking about the alignment problem that it
is alignment in the vertical plane. If this is so, the misalignment on my
RV 6 with a 0360 and a bendix throttle body was about 1 1/4 inches, the
base of the throttle body being higher than the inlet on the cowl.
My fix was to make a spacer the right thickness out of aluminum cut and
machined out to the bore for the throttle body. This being installed
between the throttle body and the filtered air box.
This has been on for two years and works fine. I could detect no difference
in manifold pressures or any changes in the mixture settings. Van's
filtered air box is very efficient and gives me some of the highest
manifold pressures I have seen on a filtered air system.
Just my way of solving the problem.
Eustace Bowhay
----------
> From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Exhaust System Question
> Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 7:55 PM
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am installing an IO-360 in my 6A. It looks to me that the crossover
exhaust
> system
> sold by Van's is going to get in the way of the servo. I am also
installing
> the Sam James Cowl which has an air scoop that is already part of the
cowl
> (not separate like Van's). So...I need to line up the servo directly with
the
> scoop. I don't think this is possible using the High Counrty Exhaust
System.
> I may be wrong...but at a look at this and I think I am right. So my
> question is....Is there any other exhaust systems available that are not
> crossover type? If so who would I contact to find one of these creatures?
> Finally, has anyone out there used this particular combination of engine,
> servo (Bendix) and cowl.
> Bob Claypool. 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffrey.Hawkins(at)choicepointinc.com |
10/08/99 12:50:04 PM
Say you want to add a smoke system to your RV. Is there a special oil that
is used for this? Does any one have some plans or sketches of a system
that they have installed?
Thanks,
Jeff Hawkins
RV-8
Fuselage stuff
Atlanta, Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Amos Bechtel <abechtel(at)agctr.lsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to take another crack at it tonight
and see if I can get it out of there without damaging anything. I definitely do
not want to buy a new rear spar.
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Move on to something else making yourself a note to come back to this
> later. Or even, fix the bit so it can't pop out and so it serves as a very
> high strength rivet and get on with it.
>
> Is this your only mistake so far?
Ha ha ha ha ha, I consider the 50% of my time spent figuring out how to fix my
mistakes the real educational part of building.
Amos
RV-8, still putting slowwwww build wings together
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry E James" <larryj(at)oz.net> |
| Subject: | wing incidence (was 6A Flat Bottom Skin Interference) |
List,
Bernie Kerr brings up a very interesting subject - the variance in wing
incidence. I visited a fellow builder earlier this week (with much more
experience than I) who mentioned changing the 20 3/16" fuselage dimension
(RV-4; firewall datum to forward top of main spar carry-through) to
something slightly greater. His observation was that all -4's he has seen
tend to fly with the main longeron angle down at the tail ... while our
building and rigging is based on having this longeron level. Is there
anyone out there with good experience on this ??? I'd like to hear from
anyone with first hand knowledge of this alignment and hopefully some
optimization.
Larry E James
Bellevue, WA
larryj(at)oz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Hello list!
The recent thread on control stops and rudder pedal breakage got me
thinking (hmmmmm...) Why are the stops at the control surfaces and not
at the "source of the force"? With stops at the control surfaces the
associated hardware must be capable of handling all the force you can
apply from stick/pedal all the way to the stop. Would there not be less
risk from inadvertant breakage if the rudder stops, for example, were
immediately behind the pedal tube where your size 11 mashes on it, or on
each side of the stick AT the stick? I'm obviously not an aeronautical
type enjineer ;<) so if the answer is obvious I'll just go back to my
dungeon and tearfully stare at that skin I just ruined! (not having a
fun day, dammit! :<( )
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, wondering why I didn't get a quickbuild!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Smoke System |
Suggest you forget the smoke system...Know many guys that have had
them...There is a special smoke oil...They will sell you a 50gal drum..Messy
system in plane...Every time you use it, it covers the bottom of the airplane
with a thin coating of oil and some apts forbit its use on the
field..Everybody that I know that had one has removed it...If you're going to
be an airshow type then its part of the business and its part of the
maintenance you have to do...Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Mark,
We did not discuss this when I was getting an AE ed. My reasoning is the
stops are best at the control surfaces because the control system is not
rigid. Nothing is. If the stop is at the "source of force", then the
aerodynamic force on the cintrol surface will deflect that surface to less
than full value. We don't want to loose the performance the designer gave
us.
With the stops at the surfaces, the pilot inputs a little more on the
controls to make up for the system deflection.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 Just bent my fuse. fuel tank brackets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Smoke System |
In a message dated 10/8/99, 1:38:59 PM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smoke System |
>
>Suggest you forget the smoke system...Know many guys that have had
>them...There is a special smoke oil...They will sell you a 50gal
drum..Messy
>system in plane...Every time you use it, it covers the bottom of the
airplane
>with a thin coating of oil and some apts forbit its use on the
>field..Everybody that I know that had one has removed it...If you're going
to
>be an airshow type then its part of the business and its part of the
>maintenance you have to do...Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 flying
>
Not so fast.......
I sell quite a bit of smoke oil to airshows and to aerial spray operators.
What you need is a good quality, high flash point, parafinnic mineral oil.
Typically these products are only sold in bulk and drums. If you intend to
do much smoking at all you will need a drum, becasue a good system will burn
up nearly about a 1/2 gallon a minute. On a big radial it is considerably
more than that. We sell smoke oil in quantities as low as 2.5 gallon jugs.
As for the messy part, it is a function of how well you design you system.
Try at all costs, to put your smoke tank outside of the cockpit somewhere.
Try to have an external filler and put the pump ahead of the firewall. many
people use outboard motor fuel tanks in the back seat. This is a guaranteed
mess in your airplane. the oil on the belly is a pain, but you will learn
what cleaners will remove the residue and if you keep it clean it doesnt
take that long to stay ahead of it. If you dont, it is a huge mess!
The real secret is how well you design you system to be clean and how far
your tail pipes stick out in the wind.
Talk to any spray pilot or airshow pilot, they can help you with the
specifics of your design.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Drilling out rivets? Oh yeah, I heard that some people have to do this from
time to time. I never had to.
Never drilled through two of my fingers (on my left hand) either. And I NEVER
had to buy a replacement elevator (right side) or aileron (left side). Go a
head and ask anybody (except my hangar-mates).
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Of course you know that I'm lying through my finger-tips :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Question |
RClayp5888(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I am installing an IO-360 in my 6A. It looks to me that the crossover exhaust
> system
> sold by Van's is going to get in the way of the servo. I am also installing
> the Sam James Cowl which has an air scoop that is already part of the cowl
> (not separate like Van's). So...I need to line up the servo directly with the
> scoop. I don't think this is possible using the High Counrty Exhaust System.
> I may be wrong...but at a look at this and I think I am right. So my
> question is....Is there any other exhaust systems available that are not
> crossover type? If so who would I contact to find one of these creatures?
> Finally, has anyone out there used this particular combination of engine,
> servo (Bendix) and cowl.
> Bob Claypool. 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
>
Bob, you might wish to get in contact with Skydynamics and talk with Kevin Murry.
He has helped many people out. Also, from what I've seem and heard, there's very
little difference between the crossover, two into one, or the four separate pipe
systems. Talk with my brother, Pat, there in Fresno.Chuck, RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence (was 6A Flat Bottom Skin Interference) |
In a message dated 10/8/99 1:22:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, larryj(at)oz.net
writes:
<< List,
Bernie Kerr brings up a very interesting subject - the variance in wing
incidence. I visited a fellow builder earlier this week (with much more
experience than I) who mentioned changing the 20 3/16" fuselage dimension
(RV-4; firewall datum to forward top of main spar carry-through) to
something slightly greater. >>
I would be very careful moving the wing fore or aft, you are doing a lot
more here than simply flying the fuselage a very small angle difference from
"spec"!
Bernie Kerr, 6A finishing, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michelle Alexander" <flyaway(at)iserv.net> |
| Subject: | vertical fin offset |
Am currently attaching tail feathers on my RV-6. Am considering offsetting
vertical fin. Anyone done this and if so how much and with what result?
Thanks
Stan Cole
RV-6 Battle Creek, Mi.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
The following info will be "old hat" for the many RV'ers who have been
flying with the RMI units, but there are many new builders who are just
now discovering the existence of the uMonitor and uEncoder.
I have limited experience (slightly over 30 hours) with these two units,
but I believe it is sufficient to form a solid opinion. In a
nutshell........I like them both. I will admit, however, that there is
definitely a learning curve associated with learning to fly according to
digits instead of needles. But thirty hours has been enough to get me
comfortable with the system and to appreciate the engineering in the
units.
As Paul stated, the quality of the kits and support is excellent. I also
think they represent a good value. Let's take a look at the uEncoder:
Kit price; $879, which takes the place of the following instruments:
airspeed indicator, $312 (remember, the uEncoder shows mph, knots, TAS,
IAS, and is lighted!)
vertical speed indicator, $250
altimeter, $387 (the uEncoder also shows density and pressure
altitude!)
outside air temp $45
encoder $175 (in addition, the uEncoder shows exactly the altitude
being sent to the xsponder)
altitude alerts, $?
airspeed alarms, $?
This comes to at least $1169 worth of conventional instruments contained
in the uEncoder. I added the compass module at $230, which compares in
price to a vertical card unit. The compass module works well as long as
the plane is in level flight. However, I rarely consult it because
heading info is usually read from the Lowrance 100 hardwired to the
panel. I have not had the uEncoder calibrated by an avionics shop yet,
but comparisons with other aircraft have shown the unit to be accurate.
I like the trend arrows in the readouts which give you a very early
indication that altitude or airspeed are changing. Another neat trick is
the additional readout that can be programmed to indicate when you have
decelerated to flap speed.
The uMonitor ($999 kit plus some of the sensors beyond basic functions)
in my opinion is an even more impressive unit when compared with
capabilities and cost. I won't take the bandwidth to make the
comparisons, but you can run the numbers and see how much you would
spend to install analog versions of the following:
Tachometer, hourmeter, voltmeter, fuel flow, fuel pressure, oil
pressure, ammeter, carb temp, EGT, CHT, oil temp, clock, timers, and
manifold pressure.
All but a couple of the above functions are visible at all times and
have programmable alarms. You can take a look at the panel in 399SB and
see the panel real estate saved by using the two RMI units:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
The addition of the EI fuel gauge (highly recommended!) and Navaid
auto-pilot/turn coordinator yielded a very compact VFR panel with
everything included except attitude indicator and DG. I have been very
happy with all these units and the decision to go with an
electron-powered panel.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, free to go hither and
yon............................)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-------------------------
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the compliments on the site...as far as the Engine Monitoring
> System, I don't have any experience, but I think there is a "get what you
> pay for" break point. It seems that the RMI stuff is closest you can get
> without loosing quality. Since I have built both of the RMI units, I know
> the quality is excellent. I have heard many, many excellent testimonials on
> their products, and none on the Engine Monitoring System.
>
> As far as the encoder is concerned..think of the instruments it replaces,
> VSI, Encoder, OAT, Density Altitude, and it provides warnings that you can
> preset. I can not comment personally on its accuracy, but have heard that
> it is worth much more than it costs. You are looking at $400 for a VSI and
> encoder, so the additional $500 is worth it for the other functions and
> quality. Not to mention, it looks really sharp in a panel...you wouldn't
> believe how many "what the heck is that thing" comments I get when people
> come by to see my project.
>
> Take it FWIW, as I am not flying, and am commenting solely on the experience
> of other builders.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com <VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 4:21 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RMI
>
> >
> >Paul, I love your website, it will be a great help to me as I am also
> >building a 6QB. After viewing your site I went as far as filling out an
> >order form for the RMI engine monitor. But then I found the "Engine
> >Monitoring System" on Aircraft Spruce's webpage. I once saw a picture of
> >this devise installed in a One Design (in Sport Aviation). This system
> does
> >everything that the RMI does (except OAT, clock and Amps) and costs less
> than
> >half the price ($489, most sensors included) and comes ready to install.
> >(like with the RMI, the fuel totalizer sensor is extra, but I dont know its
> >cost)
> >
> >Can anyone comment on this system?
> >
> >I also like the RMI encoder, but it just seems so much cheaper (and at
> least
> >as reliable - if not more so) to install a blind encoder and analog
> >instruments. Do you really find it that useful? Do you find its digital
> >altimeter to be as accurate as a good analog one? Did you install the
> >compass feature? If so, do you find it to behave more like a CDI or a
> >Whiskey?
> >
> >Thanks again for your website.
> >Dave Leonard
> >6QB Wings (on Hold)
> >
> >
> >> You may want to check the archives on this..there are many satisfied
> >> customers of RMI. I have both built both of them, and have some
> additional
> >> information on my website:
> >>
> >> http://members.home.net/rv8er/avionics.htm
> >>
> >> Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
Last year I researched the archives and found some experimentation results
mostly on a -4. In the final analysis, I concluded it best to leave
straight ahead or slightly (1/8 - 1/4") offset to the port side. Mine is
offset as mentioned but isn't flying yet. If you bought Van's empenage
fairings, you should consider if there is a consequence to offsetting.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle Alexander <flyaway(at)iserv.net>
Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 8:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: vertical fin offset
>
>Am currently attaching tail feathers on my RV-6. Am considering offsetting
>vertical fin. Anyone done this and if so how much and with what result?
>Thanks
>Stan Cole
>RV-6 Battle Creek, Mi.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <dave(at)davebarnhart.com> |
>Can somebody help please?
>What is Copperstate?
>I assume it is an RV fly-in in Pheonix.
>I would like to get a good look at a bunch of RV's.
>Is this the place?
Well, yes there are usually 2-3 rows of RVs at Copperstate.
The Copperstate Regional Fly-in and Airshow is put on by the Arizona State
Council of EAA Chapters. It is held the second weekend in October at the
old Williams Air Force Base (now Williams Gateway Airport). We have been
pretty successful in making this event grow to a significant size, yet
retain the friendly, small-fly-in atmosphere. You'll find no price-gouging
in the food court here.
If you attend, be sure to stop by Aircraft Registration and say hello.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 N601DB
Flying
Copperstate Aircraft Registration Chairman, Hotel Shuttle-Bus Coordinator,
and general all-around go-fer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle Alexander <flyaway(at)iserv.net>
>
> Am currently attaching tail feathers on my RV-6. Am considering
offsetting
> vertical fin. Anyone done this and if so how much and with what result?
> Thanks
> Stan Cole
> RV-6 Battle Creek, Mi.
Offsetting the vertical fin should not be necessary. The engine mount is
designed with an offset to compensate for propeller torque in cruise.
However, many small inconsistencies during construction can affect the final
outcome regarding how straight your aircraft will fly (gear leg fairings and
wheel pants are the biggest factors). Offsetting the fin during costruction
is a stab in the dark at a problem that may not exist with your aircraft. I
would recommend you mount it per plans and change it after you fly if you
have to. Off the more than a dozen RV's I have been around in this area
only a few have needed rudder trim.
Martin Sutter N868CM 1,500hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Dash (long) |
RV's,
The Copperstate Dash was conducted today. It started at Apple Valley, CA
where EAA Chapter 768 is located. Our chapter helped with the race for the
first time. We met all the racers as they arrived and helped with any
aircraft problems. We also provided transport to and from the hotel. The
bottom line was it looks like FUN.
There were several RV's in the race:
RV-3s
Tom McIntyre N978TM (160 HP)
Frank Donnelly N66GB (180 HP)
RV-6A
Merril Menlove N402M (150 HP)
RV-6s
Gary Sobek (Birdstrike) N157GS (160 HP)
Thomas Hamm N64TH (150 HP)
Joe Mayer N240LT (180 HP)
Walt Cannon N36WC (180 HP)
Terry Saylor N25TS (180 HP)
There were eight RVs in a field of 34 racers (23.5 percent). How everybody
did is still unknown to me. Two RV-4s showed up but didn't race (Rumor that
one was Dave Anders (not sure about the spelling) with his CAFE record
setting aircraft). Where are the RV-4 racers??? Anyway, looks like a good
turn out for the RV series. I sure enjoyed meeting all the RV racers. Hope
to see you all back next year.
(It also looked like a contest to see who could make the smallest tail
wheel. Not sure, but think Tom used black paint on a plain axel. I am also
not sure that any of the racers used rivits as the planes looked like they
were held together with tape.) :-)
GOOD LUCK GUYS !!!!!!! (not sexest, just no female RV pilots raced)
Tom Gummo
EAA Chapter 768
HR II - (N561FS reserved) - mounting engine, etc etc
(Can't race due to the 180 HP limit.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tire stem access |
| From: | "Don Diehl" <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net> |
>
> Some time back someone posted information on the spring loaded button that
> was used for the tire stem access hole. I just spent a half hour searching
> the archives and could not find the info. SO: Where do I find this
> creation????? (Wicks and A.S.S. do not have it.) Thanks
>
> Ed Storo RV-8 QB
Our local (Puget Sound WA) Eagle Hardware has 1.00" nylon, paintable plugs
that are much more sanitary than the chrome snap in covers. They are
quite secure and are easy to remove.
The local truck tire store had a 4" extension to screw onto the valve stem
to inflate the tires.
Tip: Paint a dot on the tire sidewall to help locate the valve stem.
Don Diehl
36 glorious hours in my RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Anyone have a handheld for sale?? |
A friend of a friend is trying to find a used handheld for her husband
as a gift.
Does anyone have a handheld they'd want to sell for a reasonable
price? I think she wants one with Comm capability only. Of course,
if you've got a handheld with Comm/Nav I'm sure she wouldn't turn it
down.
Send any offers/info to me. I'll be sorting the info out for her.
Don't want her hubby to know what's up. He doesn't monitor the
RV-List so it's unlikely he'll have any idea this is about him.
Thanks,
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel Planning |
Lister's
I am beginning the process to cut my Instrument Panel. I am using both 2 1/4
& 3 & 1/8 standard instruments.
Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
Based on what Instruments I have in hand it seems to be about an 1/8 of an
inch or the distance butting to instrument backing faces together &
measuring the distance between the front visible faces.
What do you say that have been through this process before me, any words of
wisdom?
Thanks.....Mark
RV8A Fuselage & Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Planning |
Get Panel Planner...that will answer all of your questions...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 4:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Panel Planning
>
>Lister's
>
>I am beginning the process to cut my Instrument Panel. I am using both 2
1/4
>& 3 & 1/8 standard instruments.
>
>Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
>
>Based on what Instruments I have in hand it seems to be about an 1/8 of an
>inch or the distance butting to instrument backing faces together &
>measuring the distance between the front visible faces.
>
>What do you say that have been through this process before me, any words of
>wisdom?
>
>Thanks.....Mark
>
>RV8A Fuselage & Stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Update |
The update for Friday is up. Not much commentary, and pretty much only
pictures of RV's...tomorrow I will be a little more journalistic..It's been
a while since my newspaper photography days..
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Technique |
There is also a video tape available, I think thru King, called "Taming the
Taildragger". A friend of a friend loaned it to me awhile ago so I don't know
who made it. It was good though. I concur on the recommendation to read Stick
and Rudder, by Langwiesch. (Spelling not necessarily correct). Andy Johnson,
drilling wing skins. (One, so far) In So. Fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
I got to see the LRI today....it is a pretty neat unit...it is on the
Copperstate page..
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Amos, for what its worth, note the price, I would try to drive the rivet out,
assuming you have gotten the head off. Or has the drill broken off higher
than the surface? If so, you will have to grind it down flush with the
surface as you mentioned. Very carefully. You will need to provide some sort
of solid backing block with a hole to receive the rivet. The heavier the
better. A solid steel bar about 3/4" with a 1/4" hole about a half inch deep
and long enough to reach down to the rivet would seem to me to be heavy
enough. Obviously it can't be so long you can't get it into the wing. I am
assuming that the wing is fully skinned. Have someone hold the bar while you
drive out the rivet with a 3/32" drift. Good luck, others may have better
ideas, wait a while for other approaches before you proceed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tire stem access |
Camloc access doors for wheelpants part number KM713-16-064 $33.45ea. (pricey)
I have the 97-98 ACS catalog so the page might change they are on page 105.
If ACS doesn't carry them anymore then you might check with anybody who
carries Camloc products.
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>>
>> Some time back someone posted information on the spring loaded button that
>> was used for the tire stem access hole. I just spent a half hour searching
>> the archives and could not find the info. SO: Where do I find this
>> creation????? (Wicks and A.S.S. do not have it.) Thanks
>>
>> Ed Storo RV-8 QB
>
>
>Our local (Puget Sound WA) Eagle Hardware has 1.00" nylon, paintable plugs
>that are much more sanitary than the chrome snap in covers. They are
>quite secure and are easy to remove.
>The local truck tire store had a 4" extension to screw onto the valve stem
>to inflate the tires.
>Tip: Paint a dot on the tire sidewall to help locate the valve stem.
>
>Don Diehl
>36 glorious hours in my RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Quantities (again) |
> If you've painted your plane (or helped someone else with theirs), send
> me your experiences.
> 1) Paint system used.
Imron over Corlar
> 2) Gallons of base color used (sprayable gallons, please).
I'm nearly finished (wings, fuselage, and flight controls done) and it
appears I'll need what I ended up buying: 3 full gal of Imron, plus the
activator to go with it.
> 3) Type of spray apparatus used. (HVLP or conventional.)
Conventional DeVilbiss Conventional Finish Line Gun - If I had it to
do
over again I'd get DeVilbiss HVLP Finish Line Gun - under $200.
> 4) Percent coverage with base color (if you didn't go ahead and spray
> the whole thing in the base color).
100% with white, then I'll add a few blue highlights
5) Base color.
>
White
Complicting factors: See the "exerior paint" page on my web site. I had
trouble getting the paint to flow and completely cover the dimpled rivets.
Using a technique different from the instructions (but recommended by
DuPont tech support) solved the problem. First, I used Corlar (dry two
days) then URO high build primer on the rivet lines only. Sand most of
primer off, then prime whole plane (Corlar again), then TWO medium coats
(25 minutes minimum flash time) then final heavy coat. Good coverage,
looks pretty good.
Tim
> Working on the slow bits...
>
>
> +--
> --
> +--
> --
> Subscribe/Unsubscribe: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Archive
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search Archive
> Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives List
> Support Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> +--
> --
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
Trying to reach Denis Walsh. Denis, if you read this... please email me
back THANKS!
Bradley W. Kidder
sparksnmagic(at)usa.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~sparksnmagic
ICQ 11770815 EAA 574350
RV-6A (empennage)
N188FW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99 |
I'M LOOKING FOR IDEAS FOR MOUNTING THE ELT ANTENNA IN MY 8. ANY SUGGETIONS
WOUL BE APPRECIATED.
THANKS, ED 80127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
-----Original Message-----
From: H. Martin Sutter <hmsutter(at)flash.net>
Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vertical fin offset
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Michelle Alexander <flyaway(at)iserv.net>
>>
>> Am currently attaching tail feathers on my RV-6. Am considering
>offsetting
>> vertical fin. Anyone done this and if so how much and with what result?
>> Thanks
>> Stan Cole
>> RV-6 Battle Creek, Mi.
>
>Offsetting the vertical fin should not be necessary. The engine mount is
>designed with an offset to compensate for propeller torque in cruise.
>However, many small inconsistencies during construction can affect the
final
>outcome regarding how straight your aircraft will fly (gear leg fairings
and
>wheel pants are the biggest factors). Offsetting the fin during
costruction
>is a stab in the dark at a problem that may not exist with your aircraft.
I
>would recommend you mount it per plans and change it after you fly if you
>have to. Off the more than a dozen RV's I have been around in this area
>only a few have needed rudder trim.
>
>Martin Sutter N868CM 1,500hrs
At Oshkosh I noted that all but one out of sixty or so 6es and 6As had a
rudder trim tab. Rather than offsetting the vertical stab, Van's should
have builders prepare for mounting the rudder trim tab while they are
building the rudder, when it is easy to deal with!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99 |
Two places that I have seen:
1) On the right rear armrest - the antenna will miss the canopy when it
closes.
2) Mounted on the tail under the fiberglass faring (see Sam Buchanon's site
for this where he has a picture on his RV-6 at
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/
Jerry Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: <SALNED2131(at)cs.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99
>
> I'M LOOKING FOR IDEAS FOR MOUNTING THE ELT ANTENNA IN MY 8. ANY
SUGGETIONS
> WOUL BE APPRECIATED.
> THANKS, ED 80127
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drilling out rivets |
Can you get to the backside and pull the rivet out with dikes or a plier.
shaving the outside face of a pair of dikes make a nice rivet butt puller.
Can you extract the broken bit by pulling it out or did it break flush? Have
you gotten off center or is the broken bit certainly centered in the
rivet--in which case back the part up solidly and the gently tap it out with
a punch. If you have enlarged the hole go back with an ovesize NAS rivet. I
drill rivets out from behind all the time at work--shop end that is--but I
know what I am doing (yea right) so maybe you could drill in from behind and
weaken the butt such that it could be gently tapped out with a punch--still
backing the part as solid as possibe. I like the suggestion--go on to
something else--then come back laterc with a clear mind. Goodluck to you. Do
not archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
I offset my fin 1/4" on my -6A. Did not need to add any rudder trim tab. On
climb, the trim is 1/2 ball off, almost small enough to ignore. Doing slow
flight, pedal pressure increases a little up to stall. I just rest my foot
on the right pedal when climbing. Straight flight is straight. The only
normal use I have for the rudder is on the ground or X winds. Makes it too
easy after spam cans.
Bruce Patton
-96S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
FWIW I recently asked Scott McDaniels (from Van's) the same question. His
advice to me was "forgedaboutit", based on the reality that no one really
knows with any degree of certainty how much and even in which direction until
after the airplane has been flown.
HCRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sectionals and WACs |
Sometime ago a WEB advertised sectionals and wacs at great prices...Does
anyone have the address??? Jim Brown,a20driver(at)aol.com,RV-3&4 flying, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
I didn't offset my rudder because I had heard a lot of talk about Yes its
needed No its not, so it seemed too ambiguous to me. Kind of wish I had,
cause mine is more than 1/2 a ball off in cruise. But how would I have known
for sure whether or how much I would need before flying it? I guess the guy
who said he sees them on 95% of the planes at OSH had the right idea -- if
you go by statistics you will need to do either the offset, or the tab.
I put a little wedge on there with duct tape, need to make it a little
bigger before going permanent.
I'm pretty confident in the straightness of the plane and the fairings.
I have an O-360/CS prop.
Someone mentioned that Vans should set it up for a trim tab while you're
building the rudder. I guess that might be easier to adjust but what if you
end up not needing one? The wedge is a simple deal, and doesn't stick out
past the trailing edge (unsightly! :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (21 hours)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
-----Original Message-----
From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com <BPattonsoa(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vertical fin offset
>
>I offset my fin 1/4" on my -6A. Did not need to add any rudder trim tab.
On
>climb, the trim is 1/2 ball off, almost small enough to ignore. Doing slow
>flight, pedal pressure increases a little up to stall. I just rest my foot
>on the right pedal when climbing. Straight flight is straight. The only
>normal use I have for the rudder is on the ground or X winds. Makes it too
>easy after spam cans.
>
>Bruce Patton
>-96S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Planning |
steffco1 wrote:
>
> Lister's
>
> I am beginning the process to cut my Instrument Panel. I am using both 2 1/4
> & 3 & 1/8 standard instruments.
>
> Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
Not really. Whatever you are comfortable with will work. But, I warn you that
the thin .063" panel that Van's supplies, close is not so good. I have mine
.375" apart for the big guys and .250 for the little ones. I have a full gyro
panel and even at .375 the panel looses lots of it's rigidity. Some of this is
regained once the instruments are mounted and it gets better once the panel is
installed. If I were to do it again I think I would use a .125 insert for the 6
main flight instruments.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
>
>
> Based on what Instruments I have in hand it seems to be about an 1/8 of an
> inch or the distance butting to instrument backing faces together &
> measuring the distance between the front visible faces.
>
> What do you say that have been through this process before me, any words of
> wisdom?
>
> Thanks.....Mark
>
> RV8A Fuselage & Stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | FW: HS 614 -Trimming skin and ribs for clearance |
Drawing 3PP mentions to trim HS-601 PP and HS-404 to clear HS-614,this is
not a problem to do, however, this will cause insufficient rivet land for
the skin rivet adjacent to this area. The skin is pre-punched so no chance
of adjusting it. Before I contact Van's has anybody have any comments.
RV-6 Empenage
David Roseblade
UAE Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Planning |
Agreed, Gary. The .063 is just a tad bit flimsy IMO...FWIW, I have a .090
panel..much more rigid..I like it much more than the .063 that Van's sells.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Panel Planning
>
>steffco1 wrote:
>
>>
>> Lister's
>>
>> I am beginning the process to cut my Instrument Panel. I am using both 2
1/4
>> & 3 & 1/8 standard instruments.
>>
>> Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
>
>Not really. Whatever you are comfortable with will work. But, I warn you
that
>the thin .063" panel that Van's supplies, close is not so good. I have mine
>.375" apart for the big guys and .250 for the little ones. I have a full
gyro
>panel and even at .375 the panel looses lots of it's rigidity. Some of this
is
>regained once the instruments are mounted and it gets better once the panel
is
>installed. If I were to do it again I think I would use a .125 insert for
the 6
>main flight instruments.
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A
>
>>
>>
>> Based on what Instruments I have in hand it seems to be about an 1/8 of
an
>> inch or the distance butting to instrument backing faces together &
>> measuring the distance between the front visible faces.
>>
>> What do you say that have been through this process before me, any words
of
>> wisdom?
>>
>> Thanks.....Mark
>>
>> RV8A Fuselage & Stuff
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Planning |
> Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
If you are really looking for absolute min distance the only way to get it
is to do a mock-up panel using the real instruments. There is definitely
some variation between different "standard" sized instruments.
I crammed a lot of instruments close together, and used a piece of scrap
.032 AL to make a mock-up before cutting the real thing, and am glad I did.
Masonite or thin plywood can also be used.
Be sure to take into account the ribs and any other possible interference
factors such as the canopy deck, etc.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (21 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Panel Planning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Overnight in PHO |
I am looking for someone that lives on the Stellar Airpark on the Phoenix
area, Chandler, I think. Especially an RV owner. I want to fly my RV6A down
and the Stellar Airpark would be a good place to park for about 3 days during
the period of Oct.21-24. Anybody on the list that lives there? An
"appreciation" ride could be arranged and I wouldn't mind sleeping under the
wing. Please reply to Jheadric(at)aol.com offline. Thanks.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: HS 614 -Trimming skin and ribs for cl |
Hi Dave:
Had the same thing with my HS. I just eliminated that rivet. Shouldn't be
a problem. If you would like, trim your skin so you remove the prepunched
hole for the rivet in question, and redrill a new one that has the proper
edge distance.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
Rv6A 25171
Closing first wing
Peshtigo,WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 2:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: FW: HS 614 -Trimming skin and ribs for cl
>
>
>Drawing 3PP mentions to trim HS-601 PP and HS-404 to clear HS-614,this is
>not a problem to do, however, this will cause insufficient rivet land for
>the skin rivet adjacent to this area. The skin is pre-punched so no chance
>of adjusting it. Before I contact Van's has anybody have any comments.
>
>RV-6 Empenage
>
>David Roseblade
>UAE Persian Gulf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Lord vs Barry Mts |
Fellow Listers:
Opinions please on the relative merits of Barry vs. Lord engine mts.
Planning the installation of my 0-360 (RV-4) and I have heard that Lord mts
are smoother.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler - RV-4 |
Listers:
For the RV-4 experts: what has been the best location for the oil cooler
(180 hp/CS)?
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Has anyone had and practical experience with the little air vents that Larry
Vetterman sells (Van's also carry them). Pricey at $50 ea but seem very
simple.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
Doug: I use the NASA vents on the side of the fuselage on my last RV-6.
They work very well, I am using the same system on my present project. You
will notice almost all RV's use them, they are very efficient and even work
on the ground during taxi. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon -RV-6AQB - Wings installed this week
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 1999 5:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Air vents
>
> Has anyone had and practical experience with the little air vents that
Larry
> Vetterman sells (Van's also carry them). Pricey at $50 ea but seem very
> simple.
>
> Doug
>
>
> ===========
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overnight in PHO |
Aint gonna happen..the runway is closed due to re-paving..I don't know if it
will be open by then....I have been there many times, and don't recall
seeing any RV's, but could be mistaken. Also, It is private. You may want
to consider Chandler Municipal.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com <JHeadric(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 8:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Overnight in PHO
>
>I am looking for someone that lives on the Stellar Airpark on the Phoenix
>area, Chandler, I think. Especially an RV owner. I want to fly my RV6A
down
>and the Stellar Airpark would be a good place to park for about 3 days
during
>the period of Oct.21-24. Anybody on the list that lives there? An
>"appreciation" ride could be arranged and I wouldn't mind sleeping under
the
>wing. Please reply to Jheadric(at)aol.com offline. Thanks.
>
>Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jawilcox(at)nb.sympatico.ca (jawilcox) |
I reluctantly have decided to sell my 6. Its the third of five homebuilts,
(a Starduster Too, 3 RV6s and an RV8. Finished in august 94 TT 175hrs
O-320E Lyc 160hp, Colin Walker wood prop. Has tilt up canopy, gyro panel,
760Val, R50 loran, King 76a with encoder, nav lts, belly strobe and good
cabin heat. Paint is a military scheme blue top white bottom invasion
stripes and probably the only sharks mouth on a 6. I received builders
choice at the 97 Oswego NY fly in and appeared on front cover of COPAs
Canadian Flight monthly paper november 97. Asking low 50s US$. For more info
and or pictures contact off list or at 506 472 0503. My 1st and 3rd RV6s are
currently flying in the US. Photos can be seen at (
http://personal.nbnet.nb.ca/nielsdaj/Weyman/weyman.htm ) Will deliver for
expenses.
Regards Jerry Wilcox
jawilcox(at)nb.sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 0-360 crankshaft needed |
I need an O-360 crankshaft. Hollow is preferred and uncertified is OK -
Need only be serviceable. Suggestions for who to call are helpful, if you
have dealt with someone reputable. Thanks
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
Owner of an airboat crankshaft/paperweight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Ports and position error |
>
>Now my question to the aerodynamicologists is this: If my position error is
>essentially zero for the airspeed indicator (which it is) does this mean my
>altimeter error is also likely zero?
Sorry for the slow reply - I just got home from two weeks on the
road. I didn't see any responses to this, so I'll jump in.
The total error in the indicated airspeed is essentially the sum of
three things:
1. error due to problems with the pitot pressure - the pitot pressure
should be dead nuts accurate in the vast majority of cases, except at
high angles of attack or with large angles of sideslip (assuming that
it is well clear of the prop wash, and not in the wake of some
protrusion).
2. error due to static source (also called position error, because it
is due to a less than perfect position for the static source).
3. instrument error in the airspeed indicator itself. I have only
seen calibration results for a small number of airspeed indicators,
but they all had errors of at least two knots at some airspeed.
So, if you have had your airspeed indicator calibrated, and you know
what the total airspeed error is, you can deduce what the static
source error is. But if you haven't had your airspeed calibrated,
you have no idea what your static source error is.
Just to give you a feel for the magnitude of these errors - if your
indicated airspeed reads what you think it should at 150 kt IAS at
sea level, but you've got a two kt instrument error - that translates
into about a 0.015 psi static source position error, which would give
a 27 ft error in altimeter at sea level, and about a 40 ft error in
your altimeter at 12,000 ft. Not a real big deal as long as you
airspeed indicator is reasonably accurate. This is a bigger deal at
higher speeds, and higher altitudes, as the laws of physics start to
conspire against you.
There is some info on my web site on how to calibrate your ASI using
a water filled manometer. See
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html#PEC
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99 |
Mounted mine on the right rear armrest right up against the F-807 bulkhead.
I curved it around the bulkhead and held with adel clamps. Got the idea
at OSH on another -8. I was going to mount it under the empennage fairing
but it was too long.
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>I'M LOOKING FOR IDEAS FOR MOUNTING THE ELT ANTENNA IN MY 8. ANY SUGGETIONS
>WOUL BE APPRECIATED.
> THANKS, ED 80127
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted tank wiring & flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Scott
Thanks for the tip, took me a few Shacks to find it but it was worth it.
It appears theat you are further along than i am, how did you bend the
FL-406C??
just squeeze it in a vice ??
It seems that my 'legs' of the 406 are bowing rather than the corner
getting less than 90 degree.
Gert
80721
"Scott A. Jordan" wrote:
>
>
> Message text written by Gert:
> >A while ago Scott McDaniels suggested to run the wire(s) for the
> inverted tank through the z brackets which hold the tank in place.
>
> The smallest snap-in bushings I can find are 3/8 od. <
>
> I bought a small bag of various size rubber grommets from Radio Shack for
> about a buck. The smallest used a hole of about 1/4" and held the wire
> snuggly. I also secured the wire with a tie wrap so that I could not
> easily tug it off the sender.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> rudder pedals
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Info |
> If you think your shop is dust free, guess what....Your're wrong.
Ditto. I've found best results if I tack cloth the surface
IMMEDIATELY before spraying....
Not 5 minutes before, then mix up the paint, then spray. I mean mix up
the paint, hook up the respirator, do every other thing, then tack cloth
the metal and immediately start spraying.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tire stem access |
Bill,
I installed CAMloc access door on the nose gear for access to the tube
stem. For the main gear, I simply cut a hole in the main gear wheelpants
and stuck a metal snap plug in the hole. Of the two approaches the latter
is much cheaper and works better in my opinion. The spring loaded flap on
the CAMloc access door hinders getting the air gauge/filler to the tube
stem. FWIW
Ed Anderson
Matthew NC
>
> Camloc access doors for wheelpants part number KM713-16-064 $33.45ea.
(pricey)
> I have the 97-98 ACS catalog so the page might change they are on page
105.
> If ACS doesn't carry them anymore then you might check with anybody who
> carries Camloc products.
>
> Bill Pagan
> N565BW(Reserved)
> "The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Some time back someone posted information on the spring loaded button
that
> >> was used for the tire stem access hole. I just spent a half hour
searching
> >> the archives and could not find the info. SO: Where do I find this
> >> creation????? (Wicks and A.S.S. do not have it.) Thanks
> >>
> >> Ed Storo RV-8 QB
> >
> >
> >Our local (Puget Sound WA) Eagle Hardware has 1.00" nylon, paintable
plugs
> >that are much more sanitary than the chrome snap in covers. They are
> >quite secure and are easy to remove.
> >The local truck tire store had a 4" extension to screw onto the valve
stem
> >to inflate the tires.
> >Tip: Paint a dot on the tire sidewall to help locate the valve stem.
> >
> >Don Diehl
> >36 glorious hours in my RV-4
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Saturday Copperstate Pics |
Are up..
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst1.htm
Not as much as I had hoped for, but you get the idea..there was 34 RV's
today......
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
Gary,
I was just introduced to a product called Everyready #416 referred to as
a metal gaze material. Found at most auto body paint supply stores. It
fills pin holes very nicely, it also has an etch chemical so it also bonds
to aluminum. What I liked is - it can be mixed to harden in approx 5 -15
minutes and can then be sanded.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
>
> Gary,
>
> In the archives, you'll find many different ways discussed. All have
pro's
> and con's. However, if you want to get it done quick and inexpensively,
try
> this.
>
> Go to an automotive parts store and buy a big tube of spot putty. This is
> not bondo, but a spot surfacing putty in an aluminum tube. Get yourself a
> wide putty knife. Put a big blob of putty in a spot and spread it around
> with the knife, pressing it into the surface. Put a very thin coat on.
> Cover the entire surface this way.
>
> In about an hour, you can wet sand the cowl smooth. Re-apply if necessary
> to cover any missed spots. The surfacing putty is very easy to sand and
> will sand smooth with very little effort.
>
> I finished my entire s-glass cowl in about two hours.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting....still"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 12:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers
>
>
> >
> >Does anyone have experience with Poly Fiber's Smooth Prime for filling
the
> pin holes in the S-type cowl. Is it compatible with paints/primers other
> than
> >PF's Flight Gloss.
> >
> >Are there any problems using polyester fillers such as Feather Fill on
the
> epoxy cowl?
> >
> >Are there any good suggestions (read; easy ways) on finishing the epoxy
> cowl?
> >
> >Gary Zilik
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
>Does anyone have experience with Poly Fiber's Smooth Prime for filling the
>pin holes in the S-type cowl. Is it compatible with paints/primers other
>than
>PF's Flight Gloss.
>
>Are there any problems using polyester fillers such as Feather Fill on the
>epoxy cowl?
>
>Are there any good suggestions (read; easy ways) on finishing the epoxy
>cowl?
>
>Gary Zilik
Gary,
A slurry of epoxy and microballoons squeegeed into the surface worked pretty
well for me. I still had to do lots of buildup with high-build, pinhole
filling type autoprimer followed by wet sanding with 220 and 320 grit paper.
It is VERY smooth now, but took a lot of time. I used some Bondo for the
big uglies where gas bubbles had formed during the manufacture...mostly
around the inlets.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
back from Copperstate...tired and scorched!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Smoke System |
Texaco makes oil for use in aircraft smoke systems. It goes by the the name
of "Canopus" oil. Used to be called "Corvus" oil. It is a clear, very thin
oil.
It is possible to find some for free. After an airshow weekend I stopped by
the FBO that had hosted the airshow participants. They were more than happy
to have me take the left over smoke oil off of their hands. I got a
practically full 55gal drum at the great price of "if you can haul it away,
it's yours."
Yeah, it makes a mess. Big deal. The first time you come down the backside
of a loop and there is this beautiful path through the air and you go
cutting back through it at the bottom....well, until you do it, you only
think you know what an "RV" grin is.
RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Planning |
Tony Bingelis recommends that placing the 3-1/8 instruments on 3-1/2
inch centers will result in the minimum practical spacing. I followed
this suggestion and am happy with the results.
blake
RV-4 N72RV - 70 hrs
steffco1 wrote:
>
>
> Lister's
>
> I am beginning the process to cut my Instrument Panel. I am using both 2 1/4
> & 3 & 1/8 standard instruments.
>
> Is there a min distance between the Instruments?
>
> Based on what Instruments I have in hand it seems to be about an 1/8 of an
> inch or the distance butting to instrument backing faces together &
> measuring the distance between the front visible faces.
>
> What do you say that have been through this process before me, any words of
> wisdom?
>
> Thanks.....Mark
>
> RV8A Fuselage & Stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stops |
My understanding is that the requirement is to limit the movement
of the control surface so it won't be limited by inadvertent contact
with other structure, such as could happen during aerobatic
manoeuvres (eg, elevator during a tailslide). This requires positive
stops on the surfaces.
Sorry, can't give a reference for this, so treat with caution.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney
>
>
> The recent thread on control stops and rudder pedal breakage got me
> thinking (hmmmmm...) Why are the stops at the control surfaces and not at
> the "source of the force"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saturday Copperstate Pics(DNA) |
In a message dated 10/9/99 11:43:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com
writes:
<< http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst1.htm >>
OK Paul . Guess I'm not really building an RV! Could not recognise the person
with the black, blank face in the photo.
Bernie Kerr, Thought I was building an RV6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stops (re tailslides) |
In a message dated 10/10/99 5:05:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pbennett(at)zip.com.au writes:
<< My understanding is that the requirement is to limit the movement
of the control surface so it won't be limited by inadvertent contact
with other structure, such as could happen during aerobatic
manoeuvres (eg, elevator during a tailslide). This requires positive
stops on the surfaces.
Sorry, can't give a reference for this, so treat with caution. >>
Hi Peter Way downunder!
I don't plan on any tailslides,but think you are on the right track. I
thought you put the control stops at the surfaces to keep a gust of wind from
the rear of a surface from overstressing the control linkages when the
airplane is parked on the ground. A linkage could be damaged and you would
not see it during preflight. Now during flight it could break and I might
get in a tailslide!
Bernie Kerr, RV6A finishing, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Message text written by INTERNET:Gert:
>how did you bend the FL-406C?? just squeeze it in a vice ??<
Since my shop has a wood floor my prefered method of bending is always to
use the vice and avoid a walk to the garage to beat on it with a hammer. I
don't remember any problems with the FL-406C but then again it was a year
and a half ago. Current problems always seem to erase past ones from
memory!
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Will find out today if I need the new tapered concrol rod.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Put one leg of the angle in a vice and hit the other leg with a 5lb hammer,
using a wood
block to protect the angle. Check the angle after each blow with a protractor
until you
get your hammer "calibrated". The angle is very stiff so it's not as bad as it
sounds.
Regards,
Sam Ray
80262
>how did you bend the FL-406C?? just squeeze it in a vice ??<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
Oops,
Gary the name of the product is Evercoat #416 not Everyready (must have
had batteries on the mind). Sorry bout that.
Ed>
> Gary,
> I was just introduced to a product called Everyready #416 referred to
as
> a metal gaze material. Found at most auto body paint supply stores. It
> fills pin holes very nicely, it also has an etch chemical so it also bonds
> to aluminum. What I liked is - it can be mixed to harden in approx 5 -15
> minutes and can then be sanded.
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews NC
>
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > In the archives, you'll find many different ways discussed. All have
> pro's
> > and con's. However, if you want to get it done quick and inexpensively,
> try
> > this.
> >
> > Go to an automotive parts store and buy a big tube of spot putty. This
is
> > not bondo, but a spot surfacing putty in an aluminum tube. Get yourself
a
> > wide putty knife. Put a big blob of putty in a spot and spread it
around
> > with the knife, pressing it into the surface. Put a very thin coat on.
> > Cover the entire surface this way.
> >
> > In about an hour, you can wet sand the cowl smooth. Re-apply if
necessary
> > to cover any missed spots. The surfacing putty is very easy to sand and
> > will sand smooth with very little effort.
> >
> > I finished my entire s-glass cowl in about two hours.
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> > "Painting....still"
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 12:49 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Does anyone have experience with Poly Fiber's Smooth Prime for filling
> the
> > pin holes in the S-type cowl. Is it compatible with paints/primers other
> > than
> > >PF's Flight Gloss.
> > >
> > >Are there any problems using polyester fillers such as Feather Fill on
> the
> > epoxy cowl?
> > >
> > >Are there any good suggestions (read; easy ways) on finishing the epoxy
> > cowl?
> > >
> > >Gary Zilik
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap brace assembly RV-8 |
Sam
Did just that. However, I noticed that the legs of the 3/4x3/4 piece
were bowing too because the radiused corner is so much stiffer than the
thinner legs. i.e.
the bend would be in the legs just where the inside radius stopped and
not in the original corner.
On the other hand, the fat piece which sits against the spar bent
straight with no problem to 88 degrees.
getting that small piece of angle to fit was a different story all
together.
Gert
80721
str(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
>
>
> Put one leg of the angle in a vice and hit the other leg with a 5lb hammer,
> using a wood
> block to protect the angle. Check the angle after each blow with a protractor
> until you
> get your hammer "calibrated". The angle is very stiff so it's not as bad as
it
> sounds.
>
> Regards,
> Sam Ray
> 80262
>
>
>
>
> >how did you bend the FL-406C?? just squeeze it in a vice ??<
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries |
------------------
>>>A few years back I did some research into batteries for an underwater
>>>propulsion device and I learned that the number of cycles that you got
>>>out of a battery decreased with the percent discharge of the cycles. So
>>>I am wondering what the effect on battery life is when you discharge it
>>>to 5-10% of its capacity. Is that the only way to test the battery?
>>
------------------
bn: It's true that a battery's life is improved by limiting the
bn: depth to which you discharge it on each cycle.
------------------
>So, then, what is different about the construction of a "deep-cycle"
>battery, such as those marketed as such for use in golf carts?
------------------
Deep cycle batteries pack more chemistry into the plate
structure . . . generally limiting the number of plates
per volume and increased spacing between plates which
translates into higher internal resistance and poorer
performance at low temperatures.
I suspect that as the battery technology evolves, the
the gap between batteries optomized for deep cycle
work and cranking service may narrow. Most sealed
lead acid batteries sold are used in deep cycle
applications (camcorders, cellphones, power tools,
etc.) so I'm sure the industry is working hard to
keep this performance arena working well. In larger
batteries (10 a.h. and up) there is also a need for
good cranking performance. One company in particular
has gone the extra mile in optimizing cranking
performance in VERY small cells (1.2 a.h.).
See http://199.239.60.165/
These tiny cells combined with two alternators make
it now possible to remove the pigs found on most
aircraft engines for starters and alternators and
to forego the classic 24 a.h. battery in favor of
light weight alternators, starter, and itty-bitty
batteries for a DUAL electrical system who's TOTAL
weight is about equal to the original 24 a.h. battery!
The only sealed batteries I'm aware of specifcally
made for deep cycle service are true gel-cells offered
by Sonnenschein and Johnson Controls (the old Globe
line). I think B&C still offers a couple of gels
for customers that like them but for my money,
the RG battery is the only way to go for an airplane
were deep cycle performance isn't an issue.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Smooth Prime - Pinhole fillers |
Gary,
You might try a trick that I learned when finishing fiberglass model
helicopter bodies. Spray on a moderately heavy coat of gray primer then
before it gets completely dry wipe it off with a cloth dipped in
thinner. The result is that all the holes will be filled, let it dry
and repeat if necessary.
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blind (pop) Rivets |
Listers: Can anyone out there refer me to a source of applications
information on the types of pop rivets we get in the RV kits? What I'm after
is some understanding of what kind of pop rivet is OK to substitute for AD3
rivets in places like the bottom of the tail cone on a -6 where you can't
reach around the tail spring mount to buck a regular rivet. IVan's manual
says it's OK to use the MK-319-BS monel rivets but I'm bothered by the fact
that the stem on these breaks down at the bulb so I wonder about their shear
strength. know I could use 1/8 Cherrymax rivets but is that overkill?
Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saturday Copperstate Pics(DNA) |
Paul,
My guess would be George Orndorff (sp) but you can't be too sure with the
hat and shades he looks like any other bank robber!....... AL do not
archive and I didn't write this!
>
>In a message dated 10/9/99 11:43:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com
>writes:
>
><< http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst1.htm >>
>
>OK Paul . Guess I'm not really building an RV! Could not recognise the
person
>with the black, blank face in the photo.
>
>Bernie Kerr, Thought I was building an RV6A, SE Fla
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Regina Pabo" <eldreg(at)qnet.com> |
"Kelly Ralston" ,
"Alex S. McConahay" ,
"Nikki Coulas" ,
"Terrie Hall" ,
"Gummos" , ,
"whiting" ,
"Bernice Hall" ,
"Cheryl Smith" ,
"Linda Anne Craven" ,
"Donna Saldin" ,
| Subject: | Fw: Honda 20th anniversary special |
Dear Friends,
Since I have owned 2 Hondas, I figured that I would pass this on to you. I
got 205,000 miles on my 1991CRX when I finally sold it this year!!! It
never had any major repairs done to it either, and was still running great.
I only sold it to make room for my new Z3. Who knows, this could be for
real !- Regina---- Original Message -----
From: Linda Hagood <lhlhlh99(at)hotmail.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 7:33 PM
Subject: Honda 20th anniversary special
> FIGURE IT CAN'T HURT. READ ON.
>
>
> >From: SClark1009(at)aol.com
> >To: cotec(at)gte.net, NewportFox(at)aol.com, GZigner(at)deltanet.com,
> >rswordes(at)wwge.com, SDANIELS62(at)aol.com, Tomlpl(at)aol.com,
> >Harriet42(at)hotmail.com, reif(at)ocbj.com, DrPham(at)concentric.com,
> >Jeanp(at)earthlink.net, Marlenmil(at)aol.com, drdrive(at)earthlink.net,
> >SAE(at)aol.com, Mdaniel(at)imri.com, jabojames(at)earthlink.net,
> >Hoemdt(at)home.com, Jbade(at)imri.com, Trbaas(at)home.com,
> >Barbara-Attell(at)adsw.com, Philamold(at)earthlink.net,
Veronica(at)imri.com,
> >JClark7006(at)aol.com, CoachRozTX(at)aol.com, CoachYort(at)aol.com,
> >LUV2DANCE(at)earthlink.net, DWDWDW(at)ix.netcom.com, TRWMember(at)aol.com,
> >MUFCDANCER(at)aol.com, lhlhlh99(at)hotmail.com,
> >Janet.Nagurski(at)west.boeing.com, JoySF(at)aol.com, mary(at)apc.net,
> >Rachael(at)winning.com, flowcoach(at)earthlink.net
> >Subject: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> >Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 02:28:33 EDT
> >
> >have fun with this, who knows?
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> Return-path: Lrkidg(at)aol.com
> From: Lrkidg(at)aol.com
> Full-name: Lrkidg
> Message-ID: <0.d688aa3d.252ec43f(at)aol.com>
> Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 23:51:27 EDT
> Subject: Fwd: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> To: SarinaEMM(at)aol.com, bscomm(at)smartlink.net, JBARTELLS(at)aol.com,
> CharronMJ(at)aol.com, matt(at)IWByte.com,
> Bobbie.Cooper/OU=usa(at)usa.furon.com, cynthia(at)spivey.org,
> irishayes(at)earthlink.net, kerrydrake(at)pacbell.net,
> jeffrey.forman(at)disney.com, Tonette99(at)aol.com, DG1109PD(at)aol.com,
> Mkharrigan(at)aol.com, Bjnbj(at)aol.com, sunny99(at)pop.ucla.edu,
> Fabklein(at)aol.com, mefreetobe(at)earthlink.net, cjp01(at)americanisuzu.com,
> Mernpudge(at)aol.com, jlrosten(at)gghltd.com, Hershanhux(at)aol.com,
> mailboxpro(at)earthlink.net, SClark1009(at)aol.com, ZakIL(at)aol.com,
> barrys(at)microsoft.com, bstulberg(at)earthlink.net, TeagueComm(at)aol.com,
> verytrudyyours(at)hotmail.com, Virgweb(at)aol.com, nyr11(at)banet.net,
> EZ2TAWK2(at)aol.com, JBSHORT(at)aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL for Macintosh sub 56
>
>
> --part2_0.f363ed1b.252ec43f_boundary
>
>
> --part2_0.f363ed1b.252ec43f_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-path: SusanVelas(at)aol.com
> From: SusanVelas(at)aol.com
> Full-name: SusanVelas
> Message-ID: <0.cb48f719.252e60ec(at)aol.com>
> Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:47:40 EDT
> Subject: Fwd: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> To: 100725.276(at)compuserve.com, cicero3(at)juno.com, DianaDall(at)aol.com,
> Feeelion(at)aol.com, jcabrera(at)mindspring.com, kujak(at)hotmail.com,
> LBeggins(at)aol.com, Lrkidg(at)aol.com, MAnder3174(at)aol.com,
> MAugustCo(at)aol.com, pat(at)magers.com, RSklower(at)aol.com,
> shepherdh(at)home.com, SLKnuth(at)prodigy.net, TKAEG(at)aol.com,
> scv13(at)columbia.edu, VincentOC(at)aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 3.0.1 for Mac sub 82
>
>
> --part3_0.f363ed1b.252e60ec_boundary
>
>
> --part3_0.f363ed1b.252e60ec_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-Path:
> Received: from rly-yh03.mx.aol.com (rly-yh03.mail.aol.com
[172.18.147.35])
> Received: from mailsorter-105-2.iap.bryant.webtv.net
> (mailsorter-105-2.iap.bryant.webtv.net [209.240.198.118]) by
> 2000
> Received: from postoffice-261.iap.bryant.webtv.net
> (postoffice-261.iap.bryant.webtv.net [209.240.199.236]) by
> mailsorter-105-2.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.gso.08Dec97) with
> Received: (from production@localhost) by
postoffice-261.iap.bryant.webtv.net
> X-WebTV-Signature: 1
> ETAsAhR0n3L9UW6GcXaSfkAstu9kUo6QMwIUNs1MaXqHHDcxNWluEaRpCrmDYjg> From: valdal(at)webtv.net
(Val Lanese)
> Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 19:00:35 -0700 (PDT)
> To: galaxia(at)aloha.net, EFERUCCI(at)aol.com, LLL333KML(at)aol.com,
> mark(at)glossmedia.com, MDGOGGIN(at)aol.com, mercy68(at)bigplanet.com,
> larrypat(at)softcom.net, ron(at)glossmedia.com, susanvelas(at)aol.com,
> todd(at)glossmedia.com, TTCHAM48(at)aol.com
> Subject: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> Message-ID: <22769-37FAAD43-12583@postoffice-261.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
> Content-Disposition: Inline
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV)
>
>
> --WebTV-Mail-14002-7412
>
> it's a shot--i'll check it in a week--stranger things have happened !
>
>
> --WebTV-Mail-14002-7412
>
> Received: from mailsorter-102-3.iap.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.121) by
> Return-Path:
> Received: from imo14.mx.aol.com (imo14.mx.aol.com [198.81.17.4]) by
> mailsorter-102-3.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-d/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
> From: MamaREP(at)aol.com
> Received: from MamaREP(at)aol.com by imo14.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v22.4.) id
> Message-ID:
> Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 01:24:48 EDT
> Subject: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> To: sirkrats(at)earthlink.net, CBellin718(at)aol.com, mike(at)coughlin.org,
> Sox99(at)webtv.net, Ladykobi(at)aol.com, LEdwar1038(at)aol.com,
> GRyave(at)aol.com, Kenebrandy(at)aol.com, zimmy07(at)juno.com,
> Kbjoseph(at)aol.com, Kpober(at)mail.microserve.net, Kevin(at)kevinrogers.net,
> carl.levin(at)walgreens.com, Lisawey(at)aol.com, llook(at)juno.com,
> CAPRUDOLPH(at)aol.com, Garlicgenx(at)aol.com, Gluttn(at)aol.com,
> Blackrok1(at)aol.com, Shandel111(at)aol.com, A1Hemself(at)aol.com,
> Macroth(at)aol.com, happy6557(at)hotmail.com (alfaalfa),
> gb4590(at)ix.netcom.com, Ringo12(at)webtv.net, terri-phillips(at)onet.co.uk,
> pjbeck(at)penn.com, rachfried(at)webtv.net, rlr(at)chem.ucla.edu,
> rklacey(at)home.com, MASAN003(at)webtv.net, Selket(at)earthlink.net,
> Shart48(at)aol.com, PALOMA1794(at)aol.com, jimsymanski(at)webtv.net,
> QCOUPON(at)aol.com, Mugjiggy(at)aol.com, Valdal(at)webtv.net,
> Wilkinsvy(at)aol.com, AWallis823(at)aol.com, WFLang(at)pacbell.net,
> Bookdznr(at)aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 2.7 for Mac sub 3
>
>
> --part1_d4a1524d.252ae5a0_boundary
>
> DON'T KNOW IF I BELIEVE THIS BUT THERE IS A TESTIMONY HERE TOO. WHAT THE
> HEY!! LET'S GIVE IT A SHOT, I COULD USE A NEW HONDA, MINE HAS OVER
101,300+
> MILES!!
>
> --part1_d4a1524d.252ae5a0_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-path: DPlatek(at)aol.com
> From: DPlatek(at)aol.com
> Full-name: DPlatek
> Message-ID:
> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 22:50:11 EDT
> Subject: Fwd: Honda 20th anniversary special
> To: sbrack(at)netzone.com, dcurry(at)psn.net, djweiss1(at)yahoo.com,
> cestrada(at)csdf.cde.ca.gov, PHXJeff(at)aol.com, Hobbitat(at)aol.com,
> KanePono(at)aol.com, GeminiJea(at)aol.com, Trooperisu(at)aol.com,
> HParish(at)phonak.com, LoriStar2(at)hotmail.com, williams(at)deafnation.com,
> LaCoure(at)aol.com, vburke(at)ll.net, tilton(at)azstarnet.com,
> zechzoo(at)hctc.com, Durngood(at)aol.com, HW3646(at)aol.com,
> susanecross(at)email.msn.com, spencers2(at)prodigy.net,
> herzig(at)mediaone.net, esavidge(at)juno.com, bennetts(at)U.Arizona.EDU,
> aslaccess(at)juno.com, cork14(at)juno.com, PLUMGON1(at)aol.com,
> tazboy4you(at)webtv.net, ertitcom(at)bellsouth.net, ROBEF1221(at)aol.com,
> rflaith(at)ibm.net, regina(at)indra.com, Kenr(at)ASDB.State.az.us.,
> PoppyMc(at)aol.com, DigImage2(at)aol.com, volybald(at)punahou.edu,
> MamaREP(at)aol.com, plhougland(at)yahoo.com, PJDW3(at)aol.com,
> COPDwood1(at)juno.com, Chamarsh(at)aol.com, marachne(at)spiritone.com,
> Mazza(at)azstarnet.com, gallucci(at)uswest.net, MBabb80072(at)aol.com,
> MillsM(at)mascorp.com, mfooks(at)hotmail.com, mnrcdhh(at)gte.net,
> plum(at)lava.net, Mapgu71(at)aol.com, MMcFa43(at)aol.com, msl(at)fidcouns.com,
> marepack(at)U.Arizona.EDU, msmith(at)isaaceld.k12.az.us, CJLynBB(at)aol.com,
> ldrac(at)flash.net, Politeos(at)aol.com, lsaboe(at)hotmail.com,
> lambrech(at)leahi.kcc.hawaii.edu, COMP4DEAF(at)aol.com,
> Libby_Russell(at)Douglas.BC.CA, dbrumba(at)4dvision.net,
> lunaloca70(at)yahoo.com, Apacheluna(at)aol.com, kdub1017(at)home.com,
> Canasi48(at)aol.com, fraychin(at)theriver.com, Zebramind(at)aol.com,
> winshka(at)goodsamhealth.org, KAWALLY(at)aol.com, Kbell(at)russell.com,
> KGet824181(at)aol.com, KWallerich(at)WSGC.com, Peace48(at)webtv.net,
> JPWIV(at)aol.com, Kerrimock(at)home.com, Joanne.Mock(at)thehartford.com,
> jot1128(at)juno.com, jacollinsjr(at)gci-net.com,
> James.Fernandes(at)gallaudet.edu, mccabe(at)silverlink.net,
> JILLIENP(at)aol.com, jmikael(at)SD271.K12.ID.US, witof7(at)erols.com,
> jenkdian(at)cwis.isu.edu, Babsmith(at)pacbell.net, javguy(at)webtv.net,
> JBardwell(at)aol.com, JAKovarik1(at)aol.com, HPSchmitt(at)aol.com,
> mhanlon(at)supreme.cde.ca.gov, smcleod(at)juno.com, GREGORYAWS(at)aol.com,
> keoki@aloha net, Puunene55(at)aol.com, Gail911TTY(at)aol.com,
> gah(at)u.arizona.edu, Framan(at)aol.com, Mercuryc66(at)aol.com,
> LEDWARDSEA(at)aol.com, Ni4AhTa3Ah(at)aol.com, Gerv57(at)aol.com,
> dlefler(at)jps.net, dgirard(at)wolfenet.com, DPlatek(at)aol.com,
> Debjulia(at)aol.com, dgroth(at)longrealty.com, dturley(at)geocities.com,
> dborn(at)joymail.com, Daztr(at)aol.com, laneri(at)goodnet.com,
> WardECBB(at)aol.com, art4cb(at)email.msn.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 246
>
>
> --part2_d4a1524d.252ac163_boundary
>
> Another hoax????? could be but......... What do you have to lose? If it
> isn't, look what you have to gain!
>
> --part2_d4a1524d.252ac163_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-path: Lisawey(at)aol.com
> From: Lisawey(at)aol.com
> Full-name: Lisawey
> Message-ID: <1b01ac9a.252a2e4a(at)aol.com>
> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 12:22:34 EDT
> Subject: Honda 20th anniversary special
> To: williams(at)deafnation.com, LaCoure(at)aol.com, vburke(at)ll.net,
> tilton(at)azstarnet.com, zechzoo(at)hctc.com, Durngood(at)aol.com,
> HW3646(at)aol.com, susanecross(at)email.msn.com, spencers2(at)prodigy.net,
> herzig(at)mediaone.net, Collins_Sherri(at)proxy.state.az.us,
> esavidge(at)juno.com, bennetts(at)U.Arizona.EDU, aslaccess(at)juno.com,
> cork14(at)juno.com, PLUMGON1(at)aol.com, tazboy4you(at)webtv.net,
> ertitcom(at)bellsouth.net, ROBEF1221(at)aol.com, rflaith(at)ibm.net,
> regina(at)indra.com, Kenr(at)ASDB.State.az.us., PoppyMc(at)aol.com,
> DigImage2(at)aol.com, volybald(at)punahou.edu, MamaREP(at)aol.com,
> plhougland(at)yahoo.com, PJDW3(at)aol.com, COPDwood1(at)juno.com,
> Chamarsh(at)aol.com, marachne(at)spiritone.com, Mazza(at)azstarnet.com,
> gallucci(at)uswest.net, MBabb80072(at)aol.com, MillsM(at)mascorp.com,
> mfooks(at)hotmail.com, mnrcdhh(at)gte.net, plum(at)lava.net, Mapgu71(at)aol.com,
> MMcFa43(at)aol.com, msl(at)fidcouns.com, marepack(at)U.Arizona.EDU,
> msmith(at)isaaceld.k12.az.us, CJLynBB(at)aol.com, ldrac(at)flash.net,
> Politeos(at)aol.com, lsaboe(at)hotmail.com, lambrech(at)leahi.kcc.hawaii.edu,
> COMP4DEAF(at)aol.com, Libby_Russell(at)Douglas.BC.CA, dbrumba(at)4dvision.net,
> lunaloca70(at)yahoo.com, Apacheluna(at)aol.com, kdub1017(at)home.com,
> Canasi48(at)aol.com, fraychin(at)theriver.com, Zebramind(at)aol.com,
> winshka(at)goodsamhealth.org, KAWALLY(at)aol.com, Kbell(at)russell.com,
> KGet824181(at)aol.com, KWallerich(at)WSGC.com, Peace48(at)webtv.net,
> JPWIV(at)aol.com, Kerrimock(at)home.com, Joanne.Mock(at)thehartford.com,
> jot1128(at)juno.com, jacollinsjr(at)gci-net.com,
> James.Fernandes(at)gallaudet.edu, mccabe(at)silverlink.net,
> JILLIENP(at)aol.com, jmikael(at)SD271.K12.ID.US, witof7(at)erols.com,
> jenkdian(at)cwis.isu.edu, Babsmith(at)pacbell.net, javguy(at)webtv.net,
> JBardwell(at)aol.com, JAKovarik1(at)aol.com, HPSchmitt(at)aol.com,
> mhanlon(at)supreme.cde.ca.gov, smcleod(at)juno.com, GREGORYAWS(at)aol.com,
> keoki@aloha net, Puunene55(at)aol.com, Gail911TTY(at)aol.com,
> gah(at)u.arizona.edu, Framan(at)aol.com, Mercuryc66(at)aol.com,
> LEDWARDSEA(at)aol.com, Ni4AhTa3Ah(at)aol.com, Gerv57(at)aol.com,
> dlefler(at)jps.net, dgirard(at)wolfenet.com, DPlatek(at)aol.com,
> Debjulia(at)aol.com, dgroth(at)longrealty.com, dturley(at)geocities.com,
> dborn(at)joymail.com, Daztr(at)aol.com, laneri(at)goodnet.com,
> WardECBB(at)aol.com, art4cb(at)email.msn.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 26
>
>
> >
> > Date: Thursday, September 30, 1999 7:53 PM
> > Subject: Fw: New Wheels! Please forward...
> >
> >Check this out guys!
> >Dear valued potential customers:
> >Here at Honda we have been well known for over 20 years
> >for providing the best in reliability, comfort, and style. Over the
years
> >we have risen to be one of the top auto industries here in Japan. But
> >that isn't enough. We want to be number one in the US. Now our twentieth
> >anniversary
> >for making cars is here!!! This is the perfect opportunity for you and
us
> >here at
> >Honda to celebrate our 20 years of excellent service. We have been
trying
> >to think of ideas to get more people to know about our cars.
> >And with technology and e-mail being the wave of the future, we want to
jump
> >on this opportunity. So we have set up a rewards system to repay those
who
> >help us spread the word about Honda. Our marketing staff has designed a
> >special program that traces this message as it travels across the US.
Anyone
> >who forwards this e-mail, will immediately have an account at their local
> >Honda
> >dealer opened in their name. This account will initially be opened with a
> >credit of $1,000 toward any new or used vehicle at their participating
> >dealership. For each person you forward this e-mail to, the amount of
$200
> >will be added to your account. If the recipients of this email forward
it
> >you will be rewarded an additional $100 for each person it reaches and if
> >they also forward it your account continues to grow in
> >$100 increments. You can log onto our website at
> ><http://www.Honda.com>http://www.Honda.com to
> >check the balance of your account. If things go well and everyone
> >participates you should see your account grow quite quickly. Follow the
> >on screen
> >instructions to order the specific make and model of Honda you want to
buy
> >with
> >your account. We hope that this is a rewarding experience for you and us.
> >Our goal is to reach over 1 million computers by the year 2000.
> >I thank you for your time and business.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Kageyama Hironobu
> >Senior Honda Marketing Advisor
> >
> >
> >Subject: FW: New Wheels! Please forward...
> >I'M SURE I DON'T KNOW BUT WHAT THE HAY!!! CAN'T HURT YOU.
> >Worth a shot...
> >First off, I just want everyone to know that this is the real thing. I
> >forwarded this message to everyone I know about 6 months ago and last
week
> >a Honda employee showed up at my house with my brand new 1999 Civic
> >EX!!! It is so funny because I never
> >believed these things worked and actually I sent this one as a joke to
all
> >my friends. But
> >they forwarded the message too and now I have received a new car!!!
> >My best friend actually hasn't gotten his car just yet but he checked
the
> >balance of his Honda Account and it has reached nearly $11,000!!!
> >Honda's or you just want a new car, please forward this message it is the
> >real thing.
> >
> >Bob Stanley, Denver Colorado
> >
> >Friends, Look I know this sounds too good to be true, and that's what I
> >thought too. But I called Honda's headquarters in Japan and spoke to an
> >American representative myself and it really is true! They assured me
that
> >this the real thing! I still wasn't
> >convinced but I called three weeks later and my Honda account balance has
> >reached the unbelievable sum of $12,500!!! So even if you don't believe
> >this, forward it anyway so my account will continue to grow until I get
my
> >brand new Prelude!!!
> >
> >Steve Kelly, Minneapolis
> >Minnesota______________________________________________________________
> >
>
>
> --part2_d4a1524d.252ac163_boundary--
>
> --part1_d4a1524d.252ae5a0_boundary--
>
> --WebTV-Mail-14002-7412--
>
> --part3_0.f363ed1b.252e60ec_boundary--
>
>
> --part3_0.f363ed1b.252e60ec_boundary--
>
>
> --part2_0.f363ed1b.252ec43f_boundary--
>
> --part1_0.f363ed1b.252ee911_boundary--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: George's photo |
How do you get the photos on copperstate?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Blind (pop) Rivets |
In a message dated 10/10/99 1:10:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
<< What I'm after
is some understanding of what kind of pop rivet is OK to substitute for AD3
rivets in places like the bottom of the tail cone on a -6 where you can't
reach around the tail spring mount to buck a regular rivet. IVan's manual
says it's OK to use the MK-319-BS monel rivets but I'm bothered by the fact
that the stem on these breaks down at the bulb so I wonder about their shear
strength. >>
Harry-
Back when I started my kit, I did this shear testing and I think the data is
in the archives. IIRC the MK-319-BS was only slightly poorer in shear than
the AD426-3. It does however require a 7/64" hole. I used them only where I
couldn't buck the real ones and they are fine.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | EGT & Fuel Flow Question |
I have just purchased an RV-6A with a Lycoming 160 and Hartzell constant
speed prop. Total time on the airframe, engine and prop is now 120 hours.
I have flown it for the last 14 of those hours including a trip from GA to
NH to bring it home.
I first noticed a low fuel flow of 7 to 7.5 GPH on the way home. I was new
to fuel flow instrumentation and did not track the actual fuel burned as
compared to what the totalizer read. I also did not know what exact power
setting I had since the engine manual was a copy and the power curves are
virtually unreadable. I have since obtained readable curves.
The EGT read about 750 to 770C and I did not immediately recognize just how
high this was since I did not do the mental conversion to F. At 5500 feet
I did lean for peak up to about 825C and then went back on the rich side to
775C or so. I started to get a little roughness at about the time I was
reaching peak.
Having had the airplane home for about two weeks, and now having some idea
of where 75% is at various altitudes, I am still seeing EGT in the high
700's and fuel flow in the 7.5GPH range with mixture in full rich. Again,
I can still lean with the mixture control coming out at least an inch and a
half from the panel and the EGT going above 800C. I originally thought that
I was perhaps running at peak with the mixture all the way in but that is
apparently not the case. I have, however, determined that the fuel flow
totalizer is accurate within 1/2 gallon in 20 so I assume that the fuel
flow figures are also reasonably accurate. For reference, 700C = 1292F,
750C = 1382F, 800C = 1472F. My manual on the engine analyzer says that the
EGT portion cannot be calibrated since the electronics of the instrument
and the sensors determine the accuracy. I assume the sensors are
thermocouples and not RDT's???
I am strongly suspicious that the EGT readings are wrong and next weekend I
will try to determine whether they are anywhere near correct at 100C which
is about as high as I can check them with boiling water. My question is:
Have any other 6 or 6A operators with the 160/cs seen anything like these
numbers? I realize that I need to be more precise in determining all of
the parameters including PA, fuel flow, CHT and EGT for each cylinder etc.
but I am concerned enough about cooking the engine so that I thought I
would throw the question out for the wisdom of the group. Will appreciate
any thoughts.
Frank Reed N89PC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT & Fuel Flow Question |
ALL EGT temperatures are RELATIVE. There are so many variables that it is
hard to list them all. First is the probe location. The farther down the
exhaust stack that cooler they read. The temperature that is registered is
a function of power. The more power that the cylinder is producing the
greater the temperature. There is NOT a red line. The amount of power
that any engine can produce is a function of atitude, air density, and
throttle setting. It is also affected by cylinder condition, timing, and
the induction system. The mixture, air temperature, even the humidity
affect power out put. The basic use for an EGT is to find the peak
temperature for that cylinder under the current operating conditions. Peak
power is slightly rich of this point. Best economy occurs about 50 degrees
lean of peak but all cylinders do not peak at the same time. You should
talk to George Brally who makes the GAMI injectors for IO-470, etc. These
injectors balance the power so that all cylinders reach peak EGT at
approximately the same time.
The reason for your roughness, is one off your cylinders is leaner than the
cylinder where the EGT is installed and is reaching peak temp before where
you are measuring the temperature. Your temperatures are not high. The
position of the mixture control also is relative. Finally, checking the
probes with boiling water is a complete waste of time. Analog gages are
only accurate in the middle of the scale. Even if you have a digital gage,
100 degrees Celius is so far from the normal measurements that it could be
off by 10 degrees or more but be relatively right for your operating
temperatures. Once again... ALL EGT readings ar relative!! Sounds like
you have a great plane.
>
>I have just purchased an RV-6A with a Lycoming 160 and Hartzell constant
>speed prop. Total time on the airframe, engine and prop is now 120 hours.
>I have flown it for the last 14 of those hours including a trip from GA to
>NH to bring it home.
>
>I first noticed a low fuel flow of 7 to 7.5 GPH on the way home. I was new
>to fuel flow instrumentation and did not track the actual fuel burned as
>compared to what the totalizer read. I also did not know what exact power
>setting I had since the engine manual was a copy and the power curves are
>virtually unreadable. I have since obtained readable curves.
>
>The EGT read about 750 to 770C and I did not immediately recognize just how
>high this was since I did not do the mental conversion to F. At 5500 feet
>I did lean for peak up to about 825C and then went back on the rich side to
>775C or so. I started to get a little roughness at about the time I was
>reaching peak.
>
>Having had the airplane home for about two weeks, and now having some idea
>of where 75% is at various altitudes, I am still seeing EGT in the high
>700's and fuel flow in the 7.5GPH range with mixture in full rich. Again,
>I can still lean with the mixture control coming out at least an inch and a
>half from the panel and the EGT going above 800C. I originally thought that
>I was perhaps running at peak with the mixture all the way in but that is
>apparently not the case. I have, however, determined that the fuel flow
>totalizer is accurate within 1/2 gallon in 20 so I assume that the fuel
>flow figures are also reasonably accurate. For reference, 700C = 1292F,
>750C = 1382F, 800C = 1472F. My manual on the engine analyzer says that the
>EGT portion cannot be calibrated since the electronics of the instrument
>and the sensors determine the accuracy. I assume the sensors are
>thermocouples and not RDT's???
>
>I am strongly suspicious that the EGT readings are wrong and next weekend I
>will try to determine whether they are anywhere near correct at 100C which
>is about as high as I can check them with boiling water. My question is:
>Have any other 6 or 6A operators with the 160/cs seen anything like these
>numbers? I realize that I need to be more precise in determining all of
>the parameters including PA, fuel flow, CHT and EGT for each cylinder etc.
>but I am concerned enough about cooking the engine so that I thought I
>would throw the question out for the wisdom of the group. Will appreciate
>any thoughts.
>
>Frank Reed N89PC
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT & Fuel Flow Question |
Frank,
The actual temperature readings on your EGT are not important. Typically on
non-turbo charged engines the EGT gauges are not labeled with temps, just 25
deg graduations. what the actual temp is is not important. Just determine
what peak is and then work from there. However, my RV-4 with an FP IO-320
has a calibrated EGT gauge and my temps are almost identical to the numbers
you are seeing, so I would guess that your gauge is accurate. Depending on
what RPM you are using, your fuel flow sounds about right also.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>I am strongly suspicious that the EGT readings are wrong and next weekend I
>will try to determine whether they are anywhere near correct at 100C which
>is about as high as I can check them with boiling water. My question is:
>Have any other 6 or 6A operators with the 160/cs seen anything like these
>numbers? I realize that I need to be more precise in determining all of
>the parameters including PA, fuel flow, CHT and EGT for each cylinder etc.
>but I am concerned enough about cooking the engine so that I thought I
>would throw the question out for the wisdom of the group. Will appreciate
>any thoughts.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: EGT & Fuel Flow Question |
Frank: The numbers you quoted look about right to me. My last RV-6 was
equipped with an I0-320 and hartzell propeller. At 65% it would burn about
7.9 GPH and the EGT using Electronic International gage would run about 1380
degrees F at peak using #3 cylinder. Sounds like you have a super RV, enjoy.
Harvey Sigmon- RV-6AQB- Wing stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT & Fuel Flow Question
>
> Frank,
>
> The actual temperature readings on your EGT are not important. Typically
on
> non-turbo charged engines the EGT gauges are not labeled with temps, just
25
> deg graduations. what the actual temp is is not important. Just
determine
> what peak is and then work from there. However, my RV-4 with an FP
IO-320
> has a calibrated EGT gauge and my temps are almost identical to the
numbers
> you are seeing, so I would guess that your gauge is accurate. Depending
on
> what RPM you are using, your fuel flow sounds about right also.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
> >
> >I am strongly suspicious that the EGT readings are wrong and next weekend
I
> >will try to determine whether they are anywhere near correct at 100C
which
> >is about as high as I can check them with boiling water. My question is:
> >Have any other 6 or 6A operators with the 160/cs seen anything like these
> >numbers? I realize that I need to be more precise in determining all of
> >the parameters including PA, fuel flow, CHT and EGT for each cylinder
etc.
> >but I am concerned enough about cooking the engine so that I thought I
> >would throw the question out for the wisdom of the group. Will
appreciate
> >any thoughts.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT & Fuel Flow Question |
--- "Frank A. Reed" wrote:
>
>
> I have just purchased an RV-6A with a Lycoming 160
> and Hartzell constant
> speed prop.
--------- snip ---------
> My question is:
> Have any other 6 or 6A operators with the 160/cs
> seen anything like these
> numbers? I realize that I need to be more precise
> in determining all of
> the parameters including PA, fuel flow, CHT and EGT
> for each cylinder etc.
> but I am concerned enough about cooking the engine
> so that I thought I
> would throw the question out for the wisdom of the
> group. Will appreciate
> any thoughts.
>
> Frank Reed N89PC
Frank:
I have 438 hours on my O-320 CS RV-6. Your numbers
sounds nominal. My CHTs, EGTs, and oil temp are
accurate at 100 C. Following are my numbers.
At 150 KTAS, 7.3 GPH ~ 60% power EGT peaks 855 - 860 C
At 160 KTAS, 8.0-8.5 GPH ~ 70%, EGT Peaks 830-860 C
At 166 KTAS, 9.4 GPH, 75-81%, EGT Peak 830-860 I try
to run at 800 C so as to be 100 F of rich for peak
power.
At 172-175 KTAS, 9.9 - 11.5 GPH, 81-90%, Try to run on
the rich side of 800 C so as to be slightly rich.
I purchased 27.7 gallons after running the Copperstate
Dash. I only had 31 gallons on board when I took off.
Fuel flow showed 11.5 GPH the whole race with TAS
sitting at 175-178 Kts the whole way. Too bad there
was a head wind so that everyones time could have been
better. Check my time when it is published.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | First Flight VH-LDX |
Dear List,
After a 6 year and 2 month gestation VH-LDX is out of the womb.
Birth Weight: 1146 lbs
RV6A
Sliding Canopy
0-360 A1A with CSU
Electric elevator trim
Manual aileron trim
S-Tec system 50
DG
King Navcom with GS
II Morrow SL60 GPS/Com
King ADF
King Transponder
PMA6000 audio panel
Heated Pitot
DG/AH
Electrics per big bad Bob
First flight: 3 laps at 1500 feet and 24" at 2450 rpm pretty much a
blur, left wing a little heavy.
Second flight: an hour over the country at 75% power: don't things come
up quickly at 180 mph!
Looking forward to the test flight program
My special thanks to:
Van
Frank Justice
Bill Benedict
Gary Van Remortel
Bob Nuckolls
Scott McDaniels
Randall Henderson
Peter Bennett
Leo Davies
VH-LDX (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI & Flap Position ? |
On Sun, 10 Oct 1999, Vaso Bovan wrote:
> -------------Forwarded Message-----------------
>
> From: Jim Huntington, INTERNET:jimrhunt(at)wco.com
> To: Vaso Bovan, Vaso_Bovan
> Date: 10/10/1999 9:52 AM
>
> RE: Re: LRI & Flap Position ?
>
> Vaso,
>
> This is an important question. The simple answer is this: the LRI is not
> affected by flap position.
>
> To be more precise, when subjected to extensive flight testing and wind
> tunnel testing by Cessna it was determined that flap position had a
> neglible effect to the conservative side, meaning that the lift reserve
> values were marginally higher than indicated.
In other words, the LRI is affected by flap position. This statement is
in direct conflict with your previous assertion. OK, it is minimal but it
exists. It is conservative but it exists. This is as I assumed it would
be given that the LRI detects AoA by virtue of differential pressure
across the 90 degree face of the pitot-like "probe" tube. Since that is
fixed relative to the airframe and the relative wind associated with a
given AoA shifts with flap deployment, the calibration of the LRI shifts
with flap deployment.
> To be factored into this consideration is the fact that the LRI does not
> rely on a complex system of micro switches whose lifetime and ruggedness
> are unknown,
One microswitch or two depending on your taste. Microswitches have a long
history of reliable service in aircraft. Also, should a switch fail, the
change in the display is quite obvious alerting the pilot to the problem.
This is a non-issue.
> nor does it rely on two very small holes in the wing for input
> that are subject to rain, frost, wax and other kinds of fouling.
Well, I now have 200 hours of experience with the AoA unit from
Proprietary Software Systems. I have *never* had any problems with
fouling of the pressure sensing ports on the top and bottom of the wing in
spite of waxing the airplane and/or flying in rain. If you have frost or
ice on your wing your calibration of either PSS AoA or LRI goes out the
window since the critical AoA is probably significantly different so your
argument seems specious to me. I suspect that the LRI is just as subject to
fouling by the occasional large insect impacting on the LRI differential
pitot probe too.
> Also, the LRI does not piggy-back an the pitot static system.
And that is an advantage? Being required to cut an additional hole in
your airplane to locate the LRI probe is an advantage? OK, if I really
want to I can add a second pitot tube for the PSS AoA (required in
certified aircraft) and that makes it more like a LRI but I would rather
be able to tap into the existing pitot/static system and not be required
to cut additional holes in my airplane.
> The LRI offers heat.
And the PSS AoA doesn't need it because the pitot tube is probably
already heated. Or are you suggesting that it will help keep the pilot
warm? ;
)
> The LRI indicates sufficient lift for rotation and lift off, density
> altitude correct - something no other system has ever been able to do.
Since the PSS AoA is a true AoA indicator, it does the same thing. I have
tested it at altitude (~10,000 ft pressure altitude) and I can attest that
it indicates critical angle of attack, clean or dirty, 1G or 4G, at
10,000' just as accurately as it does near sea level. When it indicates
1.15 x Vs(0/1) it is right on.
The PSS AoA also has markings to indicate best L/D and, while I have not
verified that it is precisely at best L/D, it does occur where I would
expect best L/D to occur given Vy so I believe it is relatively accurate
in this regard. How does the LRI indicate best L/D given varying aircraft
configurations?
> There is more to be said in comparison of available systems. Obviously, I
> consider the LRI the best instrument on the market today, with hundreds of
> thousands of hours of flight in many, many types of aircraft from 737 to
> 150's as proof of its versatility, simplicity and durability. It is also
> the best value.
But it is a series of compromises. That does not detract from its
value. But to attempt to run down a similar product is not good
marketing especially if you get your facts wrong. I am not running down
the LRI, I am only questioning its accuracy under differing conditions.
Certainly the pilot can figure out what the differences are between LRI
indications at Vs0 and Vs1 and correct accordingly. The LRI is still
useful at both configurations. But to claim that the LRI is somehow
better than the PSS AoA, sorry, that doesn't wash in my book.
Were I marketing the LRI I would be brutally honest about how it works
and point out that it is a *simpler* system that does not rely on the
aircraft's electrical system. I would also freely admit that it does
have slightly differing indications at Vs0 and Vs1 but that it is still
useful in both configurations. I would lastly point out the the LRI is
less expensive and offers an alternative to the more-expensive PSS AoA
instrument. All of the above are true and people on a budget will have
real information from which to make reasoned decisions about which they
would prefer in their aircraft.
Personally I think that the LRI is a good instrument. I also think that
the PSS AoA instrument is better. I believe, from personal experience,
that the PSS AoA is *very* accurate under all conditions in my airplane.
I also like the fact that it tells me very clearly in my headphones when I
am getting close to stall (the "angle, angle, push," announcement at 1.15
x Vs). To me it was worth the extra money. Someone else may decide that
the LRI is a better value. That is quite reasonable. But please do not
try to convince me that the LRI is a better instrument. Better value?
Maybe. Better instrument? Absolutely not.
The above represents my opinion. Your milage may vary.
> Regards,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
>
> >>Having the LRI is a good backup to the ASI. With LRI (I prefer the AoA
> >>indicator from proprietary systems since it adapts to flaps up/down where
> >>LRI does not appear to do that) you can still fly the correct approach
> >>speed.<
> >
> >
> >Jim:
> >
> >Care to comment on this issue of flaps ? Can the LRI be placed so that it
> >indicates the same lift condition regardless of flap position ?
> >
> >-Vaso
>
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Anyone have a handheld for sale?? |
A friend of a friend is trying to find a used handheld for her husband
as a gift.
Does anyone have a handheld they'd want to sell for a reasonable
price? I think she wants one with Comm capability only. Of course,
if you've got a handheld with Comm/Nav I'm sure she wouldn't turn it
down.
Send any offers/info to me. I'll be sorting the info out for her.
Don't want her hubby to know what's up. He doesn't monitor the
RV-List so it's unlikely he'll have any idea this is about him.
Thanks,
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler - RV-4 |
Carroll Bird wrote:
>
>
> Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Listers:
>>
>> For the RV-4 experts: what has been the best location for the oil
>> cooler
>> (180 hp/CS)?
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> ===========
>> Doug Weiler
>> Hudson, WI
>> 715-386-1239
>> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>>
>
> Doug: I mounted mine behind the #4 cylinder on the engine mount.
> Made a bracket from 3/4 angle and Adell clamps.
>
> Carroll Bird RV-4 39 hours and counting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Check out the Grand Rapids Technologies, Engine Monitor for $999. It has
monitoring for 4 CHTs, 4 EGTs and all of the other stuff on the RMI. The
only thing the RMI has that the GRT does not is Amps. You can find their
phone number in an ad in the back of Kitplanes. They also have a web site,
http://www.hometown.aol.com/enginfosys
You want the four cylinder model, not the ultralight model. This model
includes most of the sensors. The RMI enginer monitor as I read the ads
does not come with sensors. On this list I have heard good things about the
GRT as well as the RMI. The GRT gives a 1 year all money back if not
satisfied and 2 year warranty. Options for the GRT Engine Monitor also
include, altimeter, VSI and airspeed.
Bob Busick
>
. But then I found the "Engine
>Monitoring System" on Aircraft Spruce's webpage. I once saw a picture of
>this devise installed in a One Design (in Sport Aviation). This system
does
>everything that the RMI does (except OAT, clock and Amps) and costs less
than
>half the price ($489, most sensors included) and comes ready to install.
>(like with the RMI, the fuel totalizer sensor is extra, but I dont know its
>cost)
>
>Can anyone comment on this system?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
11 Oct 1999 09:29:06.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
Hi Stan,
I am also troubled by the percentage of rudder tabs I have seen. Just my
opinion, but an offset rudder just looks "WRONG". I am a nut for symmetry, but
my main concern is stress. You fall out of a loop and hit VNE That whole rudder
is being torked to the side. Definitely increased potential for failure. This
was not factored into the construction of the assy.
A while back Jim Cone (Van's Airforce Newsletter) published a shematic for a
rudder trim that acts the same way as Van's Aileron system, spring bias. Since
everyone says Vans aileron system works fine, I have to think Jim's system will
eliminate the need for a tab. Seems like the same critter. But then I'm just a
simple country boy.
Eric Henson
Mason-Dixon Engineering
>>Am currently attaching tail feathers on my RV-6. Am considering offsetting
vertical fin. Anyone done this and if so how much and with what result?
Thanks
Stan Cole
RV-6 Battle Creek, Mi.<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | stall vane location |
Hi,
I have a PA-28 type stall warning vane I would like to install on my
RV-6. RE: location of the unit on the leading edge I received the
following advice...
>It is mounted 21 1/4" forward of the leading edge top
>skin intersection and 20 3/4" inboard of the wing tip less the
>fiberglass tip.
I would seem to make more sense to mount the unit further inboard. I
think just outside the fuel tank would make the most sense because a
rectangular wing planform stalls inboard first.
The RV-6 airfoil in constant throughout it's span without no washout,
therefore the critical angle of attack is constant, therefore the vane
should be mounted at the same location. Right?
Any Aerodymanic Engineer/rocket scientist types care to comment on my
logic before I cut a hole into my wing.
Any input, or tales of experience are greatly appreciated.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight VH-LDX |
Leo,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE!!!
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (still building)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stall vane location |
You want it out side of the disturbed air of the prop blast. It gets wider
as it leaves the prop.
>
>Hi,
>I have a PA-28 type stall warning vane I would like to install on my
>RV-6. RE: location of the unit on the leading edge I received the
>following advice...
> >It is mounted 21 1/4" forward of the leading edge top
>>skin intersection and 20 3/4" inboard of the wing tip less the
>>fiberglass tip.
>
>I would seem to make more sense to mount the unit further inboard. I
>think just outside the fuel tank would make the most sense because a
>rectangular wing planform stalls inboard first.
>The RV-6 airfoil in constant throughout it's span without no washout,
>therefore the critical angle of attack is constant, therefore the vane
>should be mounted at the same location. Right?
>
>Any Aerodymanic Engineer/rocket scientist types care to comment on my
>logic before I cut a hole into my wing.
>
>Any input, or tales of experience are greatly appreciated.
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how soon we forget |
Kevin, in the interest of th list and those of of to follow in the next
mellinium I have two quetions:
A) How much will it cost you to get your plane painted?
B) Would you do it again: fly first, paint later?
Thanks,
Do not archieve
>It will be worth simply not having to listen to "when you gonna' get it
>painted?". I took N3773 to Kelso and gave her the complete "strip search"
>right there on the ramp while we waited for a Cardinal to dry and free up
>some hangar space. It's been flying for two years, and I've taken the cowl
Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks before starting canopy ||| Lakewood/
Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
Stan,
I know nothing about the need or not for rudder tabs but I do know that
engineering is not best done by "looks wrong" or by being always in
symmetry. Space the bolt holes in a round part in a non-symmetrical
pattern to ensure that the mechanic puts it on correctly for example.
The tail on straight tail Bonanzas and Debonairs (still for sale) are
offset from the centerline and one flap must be up slightly more than the
other.
The natural human urge for symmetry is just one more thing engineers need
to get over.
Hal Kempthorne, PE
>Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
> for
>
>I am also troubled by the percentage of rudder tabs I have seen. Just my
>opinion, but an offset rudder just looks "WRONG". I am a nut for symmetry,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: George's photo |
go to http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm for Friday
and http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst1.htm
for Saturday..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: JTB520(at)aol.com <JTB520(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 11, 1999 3:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: George's photo
>
>How do you get the photos on copperstate?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: stall vane location |
>
>Hi,
>I have a PA-28 type stall warning vane I would like to install on my
>RV-6. RE: location of the unit on the leading edge I received the
>following advice...
> >It is mounted 21 1/4" forward of the leading edge top
>>skin intersection and 20 3/4" inboard of the wing tip less the
>>fiberglass tip.
>
>I would seem to make more sense to mount the unit further inboard. I
>think just outside the fuel tank would make the most sense because a
>rectangular wing planform stalls inboard first.
>The RV-6 airfoil in constant throughout it's span without no washout,
>therefore the critical angle of attack is constant, therefore the vane
>should be mounted at the same location. Right?
>
>Any Aerodymanic Engineer/rocket scientist types care to comment on my
>logic before I cut a hole into my wing.
>
>Any input, or tales of experience are greatly appreciated.
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
Glenn,
You want it far enough outboard to be well clear of the prop wash,
and far enough inboard to be well clear of the messed up flow around
the wing tips. The spanwise location you described sounds OK. I
can't comment on the chordwise location.
This thing senses the movements of the stagnation point, which is the
location on the leading edge where the airflow splits - the air that
hits above the stagnation point goes over the top of the wing, and
the air that hits below the stagnation point goes under the wing.
The stagnation point moves further down the leading edge as the angle
of attack increases.
The local angle of attack of each wing station varies - it is higher
at the inboard part of the wing, so the stall starts there, as you
mentioned. But, you can still get effective stall warning with a
stall vane on the outboard wing, as there is a repeatable
relationship between the angle of attack on the outer and inner
wings. In any case, the chordwise location (or the distance forward
of the leading edge top skin intersection) will probably need to be
adjusted via a series of iterative flight tests to get good results.
If someone else has done the flight testing and has a location that
works, go with it. Otherwise, expect to make some adjustments, no
matter where you put it.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator |
>Mr. Lloyd,
>
>We are not hiding anything or intentionally misrepresenting anything. The
>LRI has has performed excellently for hundreds and hundreds of pilots all
>over the world for hundreds and hundreds of thousands of hours on just
>about all types of aircraft.
And I agreed with that in my post.
>Cessna tested the LRI and it did indicate a slight deviation to the
>conservative value with flaps. It was minor. When did Cessna, or Embry
>Riddle, or Wichita State, or Nasa, or the Naval Post Graduate Academy at
>Monterey test the Proprietary system? Please let me know if the system has
>ever been tested by anyone anywhere.
It took me some time to find the source of the research from which the PSS
AoA was derived. I finally did and it is clearly based on valid physical
properties as is the LRI. That it has or has not been tested by NASA, et
al, doesn't mean that it is any less functional.
Let me turn this around; if Cessna, Embry Riddle, and NASA have tested the
LRI and proved its usefulness, why don't they install the LRI in all their
airplanes? I suppose someone could use that datum to claim that, after
extensive testing, these organizations did not feel that the instrument
added sufficiently to the safety of flight to justify the cost of
installation. But that would be just as bogus a claim. I agree that AoA
information is extremely useful regardless of whether it comes from a LRI,
a PSS AoA indicator, a vane-type AoA indicator, or any other indicator that
reliably synthesizes AoA information for the pilot.
>The fact is Proprietary Software 'attacks' us at every opportunity. Please
>don't place these guys in heaven yet. Have we done something to offend you?
Well, I haven't seen their attacks anywhere. I see your attacks on them
regularly on the RV-list. When people ask questions about how the LRI
works they generally get no answer or they get mumbo jumbo. They don't get
solid information about how the LRI works and what its limitations are. If
you want to disseminate good information, please answer the following
questions:
1. What effect do gear and flap deployment have on the accuracy of the LRI?
2. If there is an effect, how great it is and in what direction?
3. Are the LRI indications accurate and consistent at G loadings
significantly greater than 1 G?
October 03, 1999 - October 11, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hb