RV-Archive.digest.vol-hd
October 15, 1999 - October 23, 1999
England
Fax +44 1705 473946 --- Tel +44 1705 473945
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Steve Hamer <shamer(at)mscomm.com> |
>Owen,
>
>Thanks for your timely and informative response. It could well be that
>my problem was caused simply by underinflation. The instructions that
>came with my tailwheel specifies an inflation to 35-55 PSI. I split the
>difference and was running 45 PSI. I'll go on the high side of your new
>recommendation next time. I would imagine that even inflated to 80 PSI,
>your wheel will still be significantly quieter than the solid tire I'm
>used to.
>I posted your letter to the RV-list so any of the other folks who had
>problems will be able to contact you at their leisure.
>As for me, please send me a tube to the following address:
>
>Steve Hamer
>15505 Civic Dr. Room 102
>Victorville, Ca. 92392
>
>Also, if you have any hints regarding separating the wheel halves
>without damaging the wheel, I would appreciate that info as well.
>
>Thanks again for taking the time to address this so thoroughly.
>
>Steve Hamer
>shamer(at)mscomm.com
>RV-4 flying
>RV-6 under construction
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental AOA? |
> After thinking about it, with
> an ASI used with an LRI type mast, this critical calibrated angle
> (either stall or 'zero lift reserve' - which ever you calibrate it for)
> will occur when the ASI drops to zero (ie both ports are at equal
> pressure). Since ASI's are not very accurate less than 35-50 kts I am
> starting to wonder if this is the best Idea.
The $39 solution is available from http://www.dwyer-inst.com . The
Minihelic II Differential Pressure Gages (model 2-5002 or 2-5003)
should do the trick. They measure 0-2.0 and 0-3.0 inches of water
pressure (differential), respectively. In fact, Dyer (sic?) is called out in
the LRI patent as a supplier of the LRI gauge.
According to page 4, figure 6 of the LRI patent
(http://www.patents.ibm.com/cgi-bin/viewpat.cmd/US04559822__ ) Mr
Huntington envisioned the user setting the LRI probe such that the
differential pressure gauge read .5" of water at flared touchdown. As
has been discussed on the list already, the system is likely to be
subject to increasing (optomistic lift reserve) errors as airspeed
increases beyond that used to calibrate the unit. I'd expect to see
accelerated stalls occur in regions indicated being above zero lift
reserve.
On the other hand, if we set the vane so the gauge reads ZERO at stall
(as Dave Leonard suggested) we no longer have the same error built
in. Instead, we'll have a system whose indications are approximately
proportional to airspeed times some function of AoA(instantaneous) -
AoA(stall).
I think it would be interesting to fabricate such a system (probably
under $100 including probe, fittings, gauge, and tubing) and collect
some data.
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD - Painting done (now I have to REpaint the screw-ups)
References:
- LRI Patent
- 11 Oct 99 Email from the Corbitt avionics list that Brian Lloyd
mentioned (attached, with permission from the author)
------------------------
On 11 Oct 99, at 17:13, Napier, Mark wrote:
>
>
> Hello.
>
> I looked at the LRI site also and didn't come up with much useful.
The
> patent
> however is a different story. Check out patent number 4559822 at
> www.patents.ibm.com. The LRI site has the patent number wrong,
wonder why?
>
> Just view the images, its free.
>
>
> Also, for background information:
>
<http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm>http://www.ea
a1000
> .av.
> org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm
> or for more depth:
>
<http://www.best.com/~williams/avform.htm>http://www.best.com/~wi
lliams/av
> fo
> rm.htm
>
> It's pretty simple. The dynamic pressure (pitot = q) is split by a
probe
> two input ports at 90 deg to each other facing the relative wind. The
> differential pressure between the two ports is measured with a gage.
My
> best guess is that the gauge is a ~$40 Dwyer Minihelic-II differential
> pressure model 2-5003 (3" WC) or 2- 5005 (5" WC). Probably using
the 1/8
> NPT input option rather than the barbs.
>
>
> <http://www.dwyer-inst.com/>http://www.dwyer-inst.com/
The
> angle of the probe is adjusted such that stall occurs at a little less
> than 0.5 " of water column. That's it. The gauge just measures (q1 -
q2)
> where q1 ~= q*cos(AoA + Phi) and q2 ~= q*sin(AoA + Phi) where
Phi is the
> adjustment angle (~= 45 deg). You'll notice this is not a
dimensionless
> number and is sort of a combination of airspeed and angle of attack.
One
> of the guys on Airlab claimed this was pure hokem but I think this
gadget
> probably is pretty repeatable. If you ever read "Stick and Rudder"
you'll
> get a good idea of how to interpret the
> reading. My only complaint is that it is over priced.
>
>
> If you used an ultralight airspeed ind. as the gauge you should get:
>
> WC = Water Column in manometer in inches.
> KTS= Airspeed indicator in knots
> MPH=Airspeed indicator in mph
> LRI G's=POWL on indicator
>
> WC KTS MPH LRI G's
> 0 0 0 -0.5 0.5
> 27.7 31.8 0.0 1.0
> 39.1 45.0 0.5 1.5 47.9
> 55.1 1.0 2.0 55.3
> 63.6 1.5 2.5 61.8 71.1
> 2.0 3.0 67.7 77.9
> 2.5
>
> Some one might check my math, there could be a fingering error
here.
>
> The range of the LRI would fit nicely into one of the import 2 1/4" 0-
80
> mph airspeed indicators. Calibrate the thing with a manometer and
make
> up a display with a sticky label and careful lettering and paint. If the
> indicator was turned on its side so that 45 mph was at 12:00, it
would
> make a fairly small glare shield display(could bury half of it). If in
> the normal position (45 at 3:00) and mounted all the way to the left
on
> top of the glare
> shield, it also would not take up too much window space.
>
> I'd guesstimate the cost of making one of these to be under $200
including
> the indicator assuming you're good a making odds and ends, else
why would
> you
> be in this group? :
)
>
> Now the PSS AoA gauge also measures q1 and q2 using the wing
rather than a
> probe, although I'm told there is little difference in the results. Also,
> it measures the static pressure. By taking these two differential
> pressures you can compute ((q1 - q2)/(q1 + q2)). Notice this number
has
> no dimensions and approximates
> the angle of attack regardless of airspeed.
>
>
> Which is better? Who knows. I have a hard time accepting the LRI
will
> give correct information regarding an accelerated or high speed stall,
but
> ...
>
>
> This tends to be an Energizer Bunny thread as it keeps going and
going and
> ....
>
> FWIW,
>
> Mark Napier
>
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA/LRI - Brian Lloyd |
>Is anyone going to comment on the PSS style of flush wing installation so we
>can get that probe out of the wind? :-)
Well, it works. The wing is a probe too and is in fact a pretty good one
since it is the wing that defines the lift. For a given airspeed, as AoA
increases, lift increases and lift translates into differential pressure on
the wing (it is the differential pressure that is the actual force applied
to the wing surface). The problem is that the differential pressure not
only varies with AoA but it also varies with IAS. If you increase AS and
keep AoA constant you will get more lift (increased differential pressure
on the wing). If you keep AS constant and increase AoA you get more lift
(increased differential pressure) up to the critical AoA, of course.
So IAS is the fly in the ointment. If you have some way to read the
differential pressure on the wing and then correct that value based on IAS,
you can synthesize AoA. That is why the PSS AoA indicator taps into the
pitot/static system or has its own P/S system. It uses that to determine IAS.
When I got the PSS AoA I wasn't sure that the relationship between IAS and
wing differential pressure would be the same for all wings and therefore
the AoA indication would be incorrect except at the calibration points for
any wing other than the one for which it was designed (Lancair). Since I
was going to install it on my CJ-6, which has a very different wing from a
Lancair, I expected errors in calibration that would require me to "fudge"
the data points to get it to correctly indicate critical AoA.
PSS instructs you to calibrate the instrument at zero lift (zero G
pushover) and at 1.15 Vs (1.15 times the stall speed in the current
configuration). This means that the PSS AoA requires a zero-G pushover in
both the "clean" and "dirty" configurations as well as stabilized flight
"clean" and "dirty" at 1.15 x stall speed. If the assumptions built into
the box about pressure relationships were correct, the indicator would
indicate critical AoA right at stall even tho' it was calibrated at
1.15xVs. I tried stalls clean and dirty and the PSS AoA was right on
without recalibration. I also tried accelerated stalls because that would
exacerbate any error in the calculation. My tests show that the PSS AoA
properly indicates critical AoA at accelerated stalls up to 4.5 G (It was
too difficult to get an accelerated stall at 5G without the airspeed
bleeding off so I quit taking data points at 4.5G).
Anyway, I think this verifies the concept of using the wing itself as the
probe for an AoA calculation.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolder Tech Batteries was "LIVING with aircraft batteries" |
Bob,
Just spoke to the west coast distributor for the Bolder Rebel batteries.
http://www.houseofbatteries.com
Bolder is redesigning the case on these so they will not be available for
six months. The retail cost for both the 1 amp and 2 amp is $110. You can
still see the specs for these batteries at
http://www.boldertmf.com/core.html . This is an older web site. The new
website http://www.boldertmf.com only shows the SmartStart.
I am thinking about using B&C's L60 coupled with their SD8 for my second
alternator. The standard 25 amp battery wieghs about 23 lbs. The B&C SD8
weighs 3 lbs and the Bolder 12 volt 2 amp abtery weighs 3 lbs for a weight
savings of 19 lbs and electrical system redundancy. Sounds good to me.
The literature for the Rebel says the 2 amp battery will last 2 hours with a
1 amp draw. If both alternators die, your essential buss load will
determine how long your "battery only" operation will be.
Ross
>Bob,
> >I looked through my files and found Bolders information on the TMF Rebel
> >batteries. I just emailed them to see if they still sell them. Their 12
> >volt, 1 amp, 6 cell battery puts out 150 cold peak starting amps and
>1200
> >peak short circuit current amps and weighs 1.6 lbs. The 12 cell has
twice
> >the output and weighs 2.9 lbs. These would be great if they still make
them
> >and the have a reasonable price and longevity. Would you use two in
series
> >or just have one?
>
> I'd use one of the 12-cell batteries. Let me know what you
> find out from them. Which second alternator are you
> considering?
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cornering speed (was: Non recoverable corner) |
>
>Simple answer - Multiply the one g stall speed by the square root of
>the max allowable g loading.
That is the formula for calculating manuvering speed.
>Complicated answer - You really need to be dealing with calibrated
>airspeed, not indicated airspeed. And it varies with weight too.
>
>CS=VS*sqrt(n*W/(max W))
>
>CS = corner speed at a given weight, in calibrated airspeed
>VS = stall speed at gross weight, in calibrated airspeed
>n = load factor
>W = weight
Ahh, OK. I had someone once tell me that Va and cornering speed were the
same. I didn't believe they were right. I thought it was slower than Va.
>Bring that CJ-6 up here and we'll do a flight test program :-)
Our relative federal agencies make it annoying to cross the border. OTOH,
I do have a nice guest bedroom down here and the temps generally stay well
above freezing all winter down here. ;
)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI & Landings |
>
>No matter how much power you have, if you are in
>the RED, the airplane is sinking. Stay out of the RED.
Uh, this is not correct. If you have enough power you can put the wing
just short of critical AoA (greatest lift/drag point) and power your way
out. The only problem is that some airplanes do not have enough power to
climb at max AoA because the drag component is greater than the available
thrust of the engine/prop. If the thrust is greater than the maximum
induced drag, the airplane will accelerate. If you keep increasing pitch
so that it doesn't accelerate, it will climb.
On the other hand, if the aircraft is power limited, there is some AoA at
which the drag component will exceed the available thrust and the airplane
will decelerate or you will have to set up some sink in order to keep the
aircraft from decelerating. Continuing to increase the AoA will cause the
sink to increase, not decrease. They call the the "area of reversed
command." Where this all happens depends on the power and thrust available.
And if you don't believe me, imagine an airplane with a thrust-to-weight
ratio much greater than 1:1. It will climb no matter what the AoA is right
up to vertical and it doesn't matter what the LRI says. Wayne Handley used
to prove this one with his Turbo Raven all the time.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 firewall mounted Positech oil cooler.
I am working on mounting my oil cooler to the firewall on my RV-6. My
angle pieces along the top and bottom edges of the cooler pick up
mounting points on the firewall diagonals. This set-up seems rather
rigid, however Van's says I MUST provide support for the front side of
the cooler as well. But that's about all they have to say on the
subject.
How many pieces of what size angle should I run diagonally from the
front bottom of the oil cooler to the firewall?
Thanks,
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Van's spinner and Sensenich prop |
Listers,
I'm cutting the standard fiberglass spinner that Van's provides to fit
around my new Sensenich 72FM8-\5-*&-#@$$ etc, etc, etc yada yada yada.
Anyway, the plans show a special front spinner plate that is provided by
Sensenich and NOT Van's? Or, will the plate provided in the kit still work,
with the flanges cut out to fit around the prop blades and the root? I'm
thoroughly befuddled...which wouldn't be the first time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
Just a note about the ham and beans flyin at sparta, Il (SAR) this
sunday, I know the wx is looking poor but I intend to be drinking beer
and cooking ham and beans saturday night and sunday morning. If you can
skud run or drive be here. I know the wx is unpredictable but my beans
are guaranteed.
Ill also have the coffee pot on early.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI & Landings |
Brian,
I have no problem with what your saying. it's just that in the case of most
normal aircraft, which this instrument is being installed in, this is
correct information. I am sure Wayne Handly would know how to take this
kind of instruction. I'll tell you what, let's just apply all the
instuctions we have for all our general aviation instruments to the Space
Shuttle and see how accurate they are. Come on lets not nit-pik this thing
to death! Let's be a little reasonable. AL
>
>>
>>No matter how much power you have, if you are in
>>the RED, the airplane is sinking. Stay out of the RED.
>
>Uh, this is not correct. If you have enough power you can put the wing
>just short of critical AoA (greatest lift/drag point) and power your way
>out. The only problem is that some airplanes do not have enough power to
>climb at max AoA because the drag component is greater than the available
>thrust of the engine/prop. If the thrust is greater than the maximum
>induced drag, the airplane will accelerate. If you keep increasing pitch
>so that it doesn't accelerate, it will climb.
>
>On the other hand, if the aircraft is power limited, there is some AoA at
>which the drag component will exceed the available thrust and the airplane
>will decelerate or you will have to set up some sink in order to keep the
>aircraft from decelerating. Continuing to increase the AoA will cause the
>sink to increase, not decrease. They call the the "area of reversed
>command." Where this all happens depends on the power and thrust available.
>
>And if you don't believe me, imagine an airplane with a thrust-to-weight
>ratio much greater than 1:1. It will climb no matter what the AoA is right
>up to vertical and it doesn't matter what the LRI says. Wayne Handley used
>to prove this one with his Turbo Raven all the time.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's spinner and Sensenich prop |
>Listers,
>
>I'm cutting the standard fiberglass spinner that Van's provides to fit
>around my new Sensenich 72FM8-\5-*&-#@$$ etc, etc, etc yada yada yada.
>
>Anyway, the plans show a special front spinner plate that is provided by
>Sensenich and NOT Van's? Or, will the plate provided in the kit still work,
>with the flanges cut out to fit around the prop blades and the root? I'm
>thoroughly befuddled...which wouldn't be the first time.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
Brian - Give Vans a call. They have the correct forward spinner plate for
the Sensenich prop. It is dished in the middle and fits without cutting
the perimeter flange. The only modification you will need to do is drill the
bolt holes to fit your mount bolts. The pilot holes are in place for you.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's spinner and Sensenich prop |
Brian,
I had to order a spinner plate from Van's for the Sensenich FP prop. The
standard one supplied in the kit is for a wood prop. I don't recall the
part number but it cost about $35.00. The part number is called out on the
prop drawing.
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm cutting the standard fiberglass spinner that Van's provides to fit
>around my new Sensenich 72FM8-\5-*&-#@$$ etc, etc, etc yada yada yada.
>
>Anyway, the plans show a special front spinner plate that is provided by
>Sensenich and NOT Van's? Or, will the plate provided in the kit still work,
>with the flanges cut out to fit around the prop blades and the root? I'm
>thoroughly befuddled...which wouldn't be the first time.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
Support for the front side can be done using AN3-41A bolts and steel or 6061
aluminum tube as spacers between the two flanges. This is how it would mount if
it where placed on the left rear baffle. Take a look at my baffle mount
installation ( http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/eng017.jpg ).
Here you can see the 41A bolts going through both flanges and spaced with 6061
tube. In all the oil cooler installations this is how I have seen them attached.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ Reserved Almost ready for paint.
Pine Junction, CO
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6 firewall mounted Positech oil cooler.
>
> I am working on mounting my oil cooler to the firewall on my RV-6. My
> angle pieces along the top and bottom edges of the cooler pick up
> mounting points on the firewall diagonals. This set-up seems rather
> rigid, however Van's says I MUST provide support for the front side of
> the cooler as well. But that's about all they have to say on the
> subject.
>
> How many pieces of what size angle should I run diagonally from the
> front bottom of the oil cooler to the firewall?
>
> Thanks,
> -Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's spinner and Sensenich prop |
Brian,
I don't think the spinner front plate mentioned in the plans is supplied by
Sensenich. I do know that is is to small in diameter when using the 72FM prop.
I
found that Van's front plate was 1/2" in diameter to small when flush on the
front of the prop. I used 1/4" inch spacers at the 6 attach holes when mounting
the spinner and used washer head #8 screws. Another option would to space the
front plate forward the required amount using washers and longer prop bolts. I
wandered down this path until I saw the price for new prop bolts.
I talked a local builder into buying Sensenich's spinner package. What a thing
of beauty. I used his spinner (with mine fitted inside) to mark the cut outs for
the blades. Now I haven't flown yet, and if my spinner wobbles any on the first
runup I will ditch it and by Sensenich's
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ Reserved
Pine Junction, CO
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm cutting the standard fiberglass spinner that Van's provides to fit
> around my new Sensenich 72FM8-\5-*&-#@$$ etc, etc, etc yada yada yada.
>
> Anyway, the plans show a special front spinner plate that is provided by
> Sensenich and NOT Van's? Or, will the plate provided in the kit still work,
> with the flanges cut out to fit around the prop blades and the root? I'm
> thoroughly befuddled...which wouldn't be the first time.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI & Landings |
> Come on lets not nit-pik this thing
> to death! Let's be a little reasonable. AL
Brian is not nit picking, he just has the annoying habit of noticing
bogus claims --claims that are inconsistent with the laws of physics --
and pointing them out so RV List members aren't fooled.
The LRI instructions were quoted as saying "NO MATTER HOW
MUCH POWER YOU HAVE (emphasis added), if you are in the RED,
the airplane is sinking. Stay out of the RED." That's simple. That's
easy to remember. It's also wrong. Furthermore, it highlights a
fundamental misunderstanding of the factors of flight. As Brian
pointed out, POWER is a significant factor.
Other examples: (from the "Engineering Discussion" page at
www.liftreserve.com) "At 10 knots on the takeoff roll, you can put a
wing at any angle-of-attack you want, but without more speed you
still have zero total lift." False. The lift will likely be less than that
needed to overcome gravity, but it isn't zero.
"Most pure angle-of-attack indicators are not really very useful for
performance monitoring or even stall warning without additional
filtering or damping inputs, since the indications fluctuate so quickly,
and are so sensitive to control inputs." I know of no commercially
available AoA indicators that are "not really very useful" because
"the indications fluctuate so quickly and are so sensitive to control
inputs." Is anybody on the list aware of such an AoA? Is LRI's
assertion accurate?
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: French Lick, IN, fly-in? |
---Does anyone have information on an RV gathering at French Lick, IN,
Sunday? We greatly enjoyed last year's event. >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New "How To" Page |
Hello again RV Listers.
We've put up a new "How To" page. The subject this time is mounting and
securing wires, cables, etc., so that they won't chafe.
You can find it at http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page65.html
or click here Secure
Wires "How To Page"
Regards,
John @AAMR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's spinner and Sensenich prop |
Hi Brian,
Order from Van's:
P/N S-605 SEN $40.84
Because the metal prop is not as thick as the typical wood prop, a
different spinner front plate is required. - Van's catalog pg.5 (price in
cat is old)
~Jeremy
jwb(at)europa.com
Disclaimer: I speak for myself, not my clients or employers, or anyone.
Above info is to the best of my knowledge.
>Listers,
>
>I'm cutting the standard fiberglass spinner that Van's provides to fit
>around my new Sensenich 72FM8-\5-*&-#@$$ etc, etc, etc yada yada yada.
>
>Anyway, the plans show a special front spinner plate that is provided by
>Sensenich and NOT Van's? Or, will the plate provided in the kit still work,
>with the flanges cut out to fit around the prop blades and the root? I'm
>thoroughly befuddled...which wouldn't be the first time.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Metalic Paint |
<<http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit>>>
Thanks Paul.... I will be looking for it. I painted most of my interior parts
with Sunfire today and they sure look good. I will paint the cabin areas
tomorrow. I think the adhesion promoter (UltaFil II) really helps flow the
topcoat.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment |
In the process of setting the wing incidence and wing sweep ( in
preparation for drilling the rear spar) I got out the ole wing template.
After leveling the fuselage and setting the incidence and sweep, I put
the flaps and templates on. When the flaps are in neutral, according to
the template, the trailing edge of the flaps are 1/4 to 3/8" below the
fuselage.
What now??? Did anyone else have this problem? If I set the flaps to
lie flat against the bottom of the fuselage, the airfoil of the wing
will be affected. If I set them according to the template, the gap
looks awful and would creat significant drag.
Comments? Suggestions??
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cornering speed (was: Non recoverable corner) 12:00:16 |
-0700
Hi Everybody,
>
> I have sat on my fingers as long as I can! Joe is on the mark here, but
> fails to go far enough. Does anybody realize what a Max performance turn
> is?????
Why Doug, yes I do. As an Air to Air Instructor in the Air Force, we taught
the proper
use of a Max performance turn. It is very important if one wants to live in
combat to be
able to fly their plane to the limit. AOA is the only way I know to get to
the limit without
stepping across. However, I think there is a big difference in the way a
delta wing and a
straight wing flys near its critical AOA. When lift is plotted against AOA,
the straight
wing shows a farely steep increase and then a very steep drop after the
stall (critical AOA)
while the delta wing shows a slower increase with a slower decrease.
Therefore, it was
safer to cross the line in my (O.K. you guys tax dollars paid for the jet)
your F-4, I was
just luckly enough to be able to fly it. It was the increase in drag above
the critical AOA
that would kill you in a dog fight.
> I want all the flyers on this list who have the guts to do a maximum
> performance turn to step up here. I won't be in that line! When was the
> last time anybody did a 6 G turn at the buffet?
It was 1992, when I had my last F-4G flight before retiring. I won't be in
that line either
when my Harmon Rocket II is finished. However, I will have the PSS Sport
AoA model
installed on my plane (I will detail why I picked this model over the others
at another time,
NO FLAME intented for the other systems). It will allow me to know how
close I am
coming.
> We are talking about FAR OUT flying. I would doubt that there
> are many, if any, of us who have the training or the guts, to fly our
> airplane that close to the edge. That is a GOOD thing. None of us should
> ever allow ourselves anywhere near a situation that requires a Maximum
> performance turn to save our tail feathers!
AMEN.
> These are good discussions to provoke thought and understanding of
> aeronautical concepts, but lets not get that confused with our everyday
> flying.
So far the discussion as been about corner velocity, max turns, and landing.
What about
some other situations where AOA can play a important part? One of the
reasons I picked
an RV based aircraft is that I will have an aircraft which I will be able to
perform sport
aerobatics. Picture your self at the top of a loop. How much harder can
you pull or are
you already pulling to much for your over the top speed. AOA systems should
be able to
tell you that answer. Do to the pilot report by Brian, I picked a system
which works both
in landing and at other G loads. Nose high, slow airspeed recoveries should
be able to be
accomplished with AOA until flying airspeed is attained. Just a couple of
ideas where
AOA can help.
> Experienced pilots use superior judgment to avoid situations requiring
> superior skill.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
Like always good words of wisdom. Thanks Doug.
Tom Gummo
HRII, on the gear, engine mounting Sunday, flying soon please
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmjordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 - Electric flap mechanism move |
I moved the electric flap actuator on my RV6A QB after I saw another local
builder's modification. I actually think it is easier than building the
normal center box. The most significant portion of the mod is rewelding
the actuation arm on the weldment WD613. Normally, this arm points forward
and
slightly upward, it needs to be removed and rewelded facing aft and on the
same upward angle just next to the flap actuating arm on the right
(passenger) side of the weldment. I also felt that the tube may flex
across it's length, so I placed a piece of 4130 tubing inside the tube and
rosette welded the two tubes together each 6 inches. The normal UHMW
plastic bushing block is retained in the center of the tube.
I made an upper mount that attaches to the backside of the bulkhead F605
much
like the mount specified in the plans for the center box.
And finally, I made an new side cover panel that goes all the way to the
upper longeron to cover the whole affair.
I really like the space that this has created behind the seatbacks and
between the seats. I have some pictures and would be happy to send them to
someone that would like to post this mod on their web site.
By the way, I talked to the guys at Van's prior to doing this, and they felt
that this should not be any problem the way I did it. However, I have not
yet flown this as I am just finishing up the canopy and waiting for an
engine to arrive.
Mel Jordan
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 - Cut down seat backs
>
> > I saw an RV6A in Nashville TN this summer where the builder had located
> the
> > electric flap mechanism over to the right side (passenger side) of the
> > plane. He said you can do this, but only on the right side. I do not
> > remember this gentleman's name, but if he on this list, maybe he can
> comment
> > and tell us how he did it. Thanks.
>
> Second the notion. This sounds like a worthy idea.
>
> Norman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: French Lick, IN, fly-in? |
Gordon,
We are going today. Saturday! Leaving Speedway at 8am or so.
Sunday looks like rain here.........Gary/AJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Attach-Vibration |
In a message dated 10/15/1999 12:01:28 AM Tokyo Standard Time,
gyoung@cs-sol.com writes:
> >
> > For my own RV-8, I will attempt to attach the cowl with 1/4 turn
> > flush DZUS
> > fasteners. I do not want to use nutplates and screws, (with the
> > exception of
> > those at the air inlet) and the other fasteners on the market all
> > s
I have been thinking about this problem too. So far, I am planning on using
an adhesive to bond a strip of alum along the inside lips of the cowls. This
will allow a stronger mounting of nutplates while counter sinking the glass.
The adhesive bond will spread out the stresses over a wider area. I haven't
yet found the suitable adhesive (maybe J. B. Weld). The hinges will be out
all together and metal tabs will be used to span the seams.
This should go even faster than fitting hinges and won't add a lot of weight.
But I am sure that there is a good reason why it wont work :-)
Dave Leonard
6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Bonding aluminium to cowl was Cowl Attach-Vibration |
Dave,
Since any adhesive you choose will need to be flexible, why not use ProSeal?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> snipped
> So far, I am planning on using
> an adhesive to bond a strip of alum along the inside lips of the cowls. This
> will allow a stronger mounting of nutplates while counter sinking the glass.
> The adhesive bond will spread out the stresses over a wider area. I haven't
> yet found the suitable adhesive (maybe J. B. Weld). The hinges will be out
> all together and metal tabs will be used to span the seams.
>
> This should go even faster than fitting hinges and won't add a lot of weight.
> But I am sure that there is a good reason why it wont work :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Tail wheels] |
About 2 weeks ago I had my Andair tire fail. What follows is what I sent
them, with no response as of yet. BTW my tire inflatation was 90 PSI as
specified on the tire.
Dan Morris
RV6
Hello,
During Oshkosh this year I purchased one of your tailwheels that is designed
to go on the Aircraft Products tailwheel assy for the RV-6. It was
installed on August 8, and since has just over 10 hrs in service (24
landings). The wheel made a large improvement in the tail bounce and
smoothness while taxiing. Other than noticing that tire wear was apparent
in a short time, everything worked very well. On October 1, I had a
difficulty with the tire, and what I think happened follows.
During preflight, the tire was inspected and found to be normally inflated
(appearance wise only). During the initial ground roll (first 50 ft.) for
the first takeoff of the day, a faint bang was heard from the tail. The
bang was similar to what would have been normal for the solid rubber wheel
hitting a crack in the pavement, so it wasn't particularlly worrying. Upon
landing, a loud rumble and vibration was coming from the tail. I believe
that the tire was entirely flat and was wobbling off of the wheel. After
rolling several hundred feet, the rumbling stopped, and was replaced by a
metallic sound. At this point apparently the tire departed and the wheel
was in direct contact with the pavement. Obviously the wheel was destroyed
by the pavement.
Have you had this type of failure reported before, and what do you think may
be the cause? Also, I would like to note that the tire tread wear seemed to
be occurring rapidly, for such a short time in service.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hamer <shamer(at)mscomm.com>
Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 5:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: Tail wheels]
>
>
>Here's the latest response from Owen at Andair regarding the tailwheel
>situation. He's obviously going to stand behind his product which is
>really no surprise.
>
>
>MBOX-Line: From andair.co.uk!andair Fri Oct 15 08:47:18 1999 remote from
mail
> via smail with P:smtp/R:bind_hosts/T:smtp-filter
> (sender: )
> (Smail-3.2.0.105 1999-Mar-3 #3 built 1999-Mar-26)
>From: "andair" <andair(at)andair.co.uk>
>To: "Steve Hamer"
>Subject: Re: Tail wheels
>Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:43:47 +0100
>
>Dear Steve,
> Thanks for doing that for us.
> I'll get the tube shipped out today. As for splitting the hubs, the
>first batch of 50 that we sold had white silicon to prevent water or any
>other dirt getting between the rims and into the tyre. However we found
that
>to be unnecessary as the fit between the two rims was good enough to
prevent
>this anyway. So assuming that yours has been bonded with the silicon I have
>found that the best way is to take all three bolts out lent insert a strong
>bar of diameter of about 5/32" (4.00mm) and apply a force to the bar so
that
>is shears the two halves. It may take some 'wiggling' to separate them but
i
>have found that it works in the end. You can then carefully clean the
>silicon off with a knife or just peel it off.
> I hope this info helps Steve and if there's any more I can help you
with
>please don't hesitate to contact me.
>
>Best Regards
> Owen Phillips.
>
>andair(at)andair.co.uk --- www.andair.co.uk
>
>Andair Ltd.
>Unit 3
>25c Brockhampton Lane,
>Havant
>Hampshire
>PO9 1JT
>England
>Fax +44 1705 473946 --- Tel +44 1705 473945
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Hamer <shamer(at)mscomm.com>
>To: andair(at)andair.co.uk
>Date: 15 October 1999 06:46
>Subject: Tail wheels
>
>
>>Owen,
>>
>>Thanks for your timely and informative response. It could well be that
>>my problem was caused simply by underinflation. The instructions that
>>came with my tailwheel specifies an inflation to 35-55 PSI. I split the
>>difference and was running 45 PSI. I'll go on the high side of your new
>>recommendation next time. I would imagine that even inflated to 80 PSI,
>>your wheel will still be significantly quieter than the solid tire I'm
>>used to.
>>I posted your letter to the RV-list so any of the other folks who had
>>problems will be able to contact you at their leisure.
>>As for me, please send me a tube to the following address:
>>
>>Steve Hamer
>>15505 Civic Dr. Room 102
>>Victorville, Ca. 92392
>>
>>Also, if you have any hints regarding separating the wheel halves
>>without damaging the wheel, I would appreciate that info as well.
>>
>>Thanks again for taking the time to address this so thoroughly.
>>
>>Steve Hamer
>>shamer(at)mscomm.com
>>RV-4 flying
>>RV-6 under construction
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment
>
>
>In the process of setting the wing incidence and wing sweep ( in
>preparation for drilling the rear spar) I got out the ole wing template.
>After leveling the fuselage and setting the incidence and sweep, I put
>the flaps and templates on. When the flaps are in neutral, according to
>the template, the trailing edge of the flaps are 1/4 to 3/8" below the
>fuselage.
>
>What now??? Did anyone else have this problem? If I set the flaps to
>lie flat against the bottom of the fuselage, the airfoil of the wing
>will be affected. If I set them according to the template, the gap
>looks awful and would creat significant drag.
>
>Comments? Suggestions??
>
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6
>Columbia, SC
>
I mounted my wings a couple of weeks ago and here's how I set the flaps to
zero. The trick is first getting the ailerons set to zero.
1) When I had the wings in the jig I mounted the ailerons by plumbing the
tooling holes in the ailerons with those of the wing ribs (Paul McReynolds
method). I found the templates to be useless. I then positioned the
bellcrank to neutral and drilled a #30 hole through the bellcrank and
supporting angles to provide a neutral lock for future aileron mounting.
You can do the same with your wings on the plane. Use a laser level if you
can borrow one or else tape a 48" "yard" stick to the wing tip with an edge
bisecting the tooling holes. Stand back to reduce parallax. When the
tooling holes are collinear (aligned) the ailerons are in trail at neutral.
If the holes cannot be aligned, settle for parallel alignment -- aileron
tooling holes parallel to wing rib tooling holes.
2) Now mount the flaps and position the flap trailing edges in line with the
zeroed aileron trailing edges. This is zero flap position. If the fuselage
bottom gets in the way of the flap lower skin, cut off the lower flap skin
leaving a 1/16 or so gap between flap skin and fuselage. You will later
joggle a piece to form the fairing and rivet it onto the lower flap skin.
3) Remember to position the flaps fully lowered to 42 to 44 degrees in their
unloaded state so that they will rest at the desired 40 degrees under force
of wind load. I'm just working on that now so I do not know if it is indeed
possible to carry out Van's instructions in this regard.
If you can find someone who has done this before it really helps! Doing it
on your own the first time can be a harrowing experience. Also talk to Tom
at Van's. He has helped lots of guys through this frustrating stage of
assembly.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment
>
>
>In the process of setting the wing incidence and wing sweep ( in
>preparation for drilling the rear spar) I got out the ole wing template.
>After leveling the fuselage and setting the incidence and sweep, I put
>the flaps and templates on. When the flaps are in neutral, according to
>the template, the trailing edge of the flaps are 1/4 to 3/8" below the
>fuselage.
>
>What now??? Did anyone else have this problem? If I set the flaps to
>lie flat against the bottom of the fuselage, the airfoil of the wing
>will be affected. If I set them according to the template, the gap
>looks awful and would creat significant drag.
>
>Comments? Suggestions??
>
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6
>Columbia, SC
>
I experienced a 1/8 to 3/16 gap but it was mainly forward of trailing edge.
Cut off the overhanging skin and joggle a piece to blend in -- rivet it on.
Make sure ailerons are correctly set as per previous post.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment |
Ken,
I looked at a RV-6A just yesterday that was set up so the flaps were not
flush with the bottom of the fuselage. The owner was not around, so I could
not find out why he had done it this way. It did not look bad at all. The
trailing edge of the flap was about 3/8 to inch below the fuselage.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Still fiddling around trying to get the RV-6A canopy to open and shut right
-----Original Message-----When the flaps are in neutral,
according to
the template, the trailing edge of the flaps are 1/4 to 3/8"
below the
fuselage.
What now??? Did anyone else have this problem? If I set
the flaps to
lie flat against the bottom of the fuselage, the airfoil of
the wing
will be affected. If I set them according to the template,
the gap
looks awful and would creat significant drag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | antenna mount RV-6A |
I have a Comant bent whip antenna which I intend to mount on the
underside of my RV-6A. I'd like to get it as far away from the gear legs
as possible. I don't have any control linkages installed yet so I don't
know how much clearance there is in that central channel in the floor thru
which the elevator linkage runs.
Is there room in there to have a BNC connector + cable sticking up
from the belly skin without interfering with the linkage? I can mount the
antenna off to the side of the channel so the BNC is about an inch off
center.
Has any one mounted their antenna this way?
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning up skins |
Quick question: I have an older project (probably the oldest RV, going on
27 years) and I am looking to clean off the antique dust (and sweat!) that
has accumulated on the skins over the years. What makes a good cleaner for
the skins without affecting the Alcad surface, etc? I plan on cleaning and
prepping prior to painting, but for now would just like to clean it up until
such time without worrying about any damage and/or reaction to the metal.
I've heard WD40 works? Is it hard to get off later for painting? Any
suggestions in addition to regular soap and water appreciated.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna mount RV-6A |
Just mount it in one of the channels along the edge of the fuse..you will
hit the tower a little better while on the ground, too.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 6:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: antenna mount RV-6A
>
> I have a Comant bent whip antenna which I intend to mount on the
>underside of my RV-6A. I'd like to get it as far away from the gear legs
>as possible. I don't have any control linkages installed yet so I don't
>know how much clearance there is in that central channel in the floor thru
>which the elevator linkage runs.
>
> Is there room in there to have a BNC connector + cable sticking up
>from the belly skin without interfering with the linkage? I can mount the
>antenna off to the side of the channel so the BNC is about an inch off
>center.
>
> Has any one mounted their antenna this way?
>
>---
>Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
Simple Green works well, and won't leave the skin oilly like WD-40, however
it streaks a little. Also, industrial glass cleaner that is in a spray foam
can also cleans it well.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com>
Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 6:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cleaning up skins
>
>Quick question: I have an older project (probably the oldest RV, going on
>27 years) and I am looking to clean off the antique dust (and sweat!) that
>has accumulated on the skins over the years. What makes a good cleaner for
>the skins without affecting the Alcad surface, etc? I plan on cleaning and
>prepping prior to painting, but for now would just like to clean it up
until
>such time without worrying about any damage and/or reaction to the metal.
>I've heard WD40 works? Is it hard to get off later for painting? Any
>suggestions in addition to regular soap and water appreciated.
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: antenna mount RV-6A |
I have my bent com antenna mounted about 12" in front of the main spar on a
-6A. Works great, no issues with the gear legs. However, to avoid a large
bump on the floor, I used a 90 degree RG connector (expensive) inside a small
box, held in place by the antenna bolts, that protects it from errant feet.
The Transponder antenna is mounted in the control pushrod Tunnel about 6" in
front of the rear spar. It is offset from the centerline as far as it can
get and uses a normal straight RG connector. No interference with the
pushrod.
Double check the clearance to the ground with the tail tie down scraping. I
don't have a huge amount of clearance with the com antenna forward, and think
you might drag with it further back. (Not that the tail tie down will ever
hit the runway, I think the scrape on mine came from magic).
Bruce Patton
RV-6A 596S
(Yes Bob, the glider is 5596S)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna mount RV-6A |
Tom,
I mounted my Comant antenna midway between the F605 and F606 bulkheads and
centered in the channel. There is not enough room for a standard BNC so I
dropped by the local radio shop and picked up a 90 deg BNC connector.
Gary Zilik
tom sargent wrote:
>
> I have a Comant bent whip antenna which I intend to mount on the
> underside of my RV-6A. I'd like to get it as far away from the gear legs
> as possible. I don't have any control linkages installed yet so I don't
> know how much clearance there is in that central channel in the floor thru
> which the elevator linkage runs.
>
> Is there room in there to have a BNC connector + cable sticking up
> from the belly skin without interfering with the linkage? I can mount the
> antenna off to the side of the channel so the BNC is about an inch off
> center.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap/Wing/Fuselage Alignment |
Ken,
I found a similar discrepancy and decided to align the flaps with the
fuselage perhaps giving a reflex airfoil which supposedly decreases high
speed drag.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW
>
> In the process of setting the wing incidence and wing sweep ( in
> preparation for drilling the rear spar) I got out the ole wing template.
> After leveling the fuselage and setting the incidence and sweep, I put
> the flaps and templates on. When the flaps are in neutral, according to
> the template, the trailing edge of the flaps are 1/4 to 3/8" below the
> fuselage.
>
> What now??? Did anyone else have this problem? If I set the flaps to
> lie flat against the bottom of the fuselage, the airfoil of the wing
> will be affected. If I set them according to the template, the gap
> looks awful and would creat significant drag.
>
> Comments? Suggestions??
>
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6
> Columbia, SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent on wing |
>
> Help''
>
> During the riveting of the wing top skin, I made a couple of dent on
it;
> oh' how
> it hurts to see..this...(Icould blame on the bucker no?)
> Has any one committed such a sin? if so how can I masked this blunder?
> I heard about Bondo, but a friend told me not to ever use it, he tried
and
> had
> a mess later, trying to remove it...I know there are different kinds or am
I
> worng?
>
> Any suggestions will be appreciated..
>
There are many products by many different brands that work very well to
repair dings and dents on metal surfaces. The trick is to put only the
minimum on in the first place.
I use a product called Featherlite. There are many just like it.
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | RV6 - Electric flap mechanism move |
Pictures of this would be worth a thousand words. Could some one please
volunteer to post these? Or perhaps just scan them and send them out to
interested builders?
The most obvious thing that I would want to see is the old position verses
the new position of the actuator arm. The rest would be easy to figure out
once this was done.
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
> I moved the electric flap actuator on my RV6A QB after I saw another local
> builder's modification. I actually think it is easier than building the
> normal center box. The most significant portion of the mod is rewelding
> the actuation arm on the weldment WD613. Normally, this arm points
forward
> and
> slightly upward, it needs to be removed and rewelded facing aft and on the
> same upward angle just next to the flap actuating arm on the right
> (passenger) side of the weldment. I also felt that the tube may flex
> across it's length, so I placed a piece of 4130 tubing inside the tube and
> rosette welded the two tubes together each 6 inches. The normal UHMW
> plastic bushing block is retained in the center of the tube.
>
> I made an upper mount that attaches to the backside of the bulkhead F605
> much
> like the mount specified in the plans for the center box.
>
> And finally, I made an new side cover panel that goes all the way to the
> upper longeron to cover the whole affair.
>
> I really like the space that this has created behind the seatbacks and
> between the seats. I have some pictures and would be happy to send them
to
> someone that would like to post this mod on their web site.
>
> By the way, I talked to the guys at Van's prior to doing this, and they
felt
> that this should not be any problem the way I did it. However, I have not
> yet flown this as I am just finishing up the canopy and waiting for an
> engine to arrive.
>
> Mel Jordan
> Tucson, AZ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Elevator Jig Question |
Greetings Listers
I seem to have a slight problem and could use some feedback from -8 and -6
builders. My elevator jig pieces are a bit too wide when I set up my jig
according to drwg 8PP. I have apx 5/32 (on the inboard jig VB-3)of gap
between my skin/skeleton (clecoed together) and the "V" of the jig and the
gap is a very sloppy 10/32 on the outboard jig (VB-5).
The measurements of the gap at the top of the jig are 2 3/4" for VB-3 ; 2
9/16" for VB-4 and 2 1/16" for VB-5.
The width of the spar/skin at the outboard hinge point is 1 30/32" and VB-5
is supposed to support further outboard on the tapered spar.
My rudder jig was no problem (other than the incorrect spacing dimensions on
drwg 8-PP).
Could anybody measure there old elevator jig's and let me know their
dimensions on the top part of the V.
Building new jigs is no big deal as long as I know I have the correct
dimensions. I suppose I could shim the gaps equally but I do not want to
build any twist into my elevators and shims invite errors.
thanks
Rob Baxter
RV-8 Sarnia Canada
SN# 80970
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 22:42
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99
>snip<
> I've got an AutoCAD file that's got everything in my loaded 6A. It is
easier
> to delete things that you don't need than add things. Let me know if
you
> want it.
>
> -GV
>
I'd like a copy too.
Thanks,
Gaylen Lerohl
RV8 just finished the tanks today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Leading edge hole |
When drilling a prepunched hole into the rib flange, at the top leading
edge, the tab on the rib moved away and I ended up making a figure eight
hole. I was forced to make the hole 3/16" Which will require a a large
countersunk rivet head. Any suggestions on a repair? Yes I know, By a
new skin! But..
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge hole |
Put a countersunk screw in it with a nut behind the rib..make sure it sinks
below the skin and fill the slots of the screw with filler and then
sand...will look like a large rivet, but after painting, only you will
notice it. If someone else does, they are being WAY to critical of your
airplane.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 11:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leading edge hole
>
>
>When drilling a prepunched hole into the rib flange, at the top leading
>edge, the tab on the rib moved away and I ended up making a figure eight
>hole. I was forced to make the hole 3/16" Which will require a a large
>countersunk rivet head. Any suggestions on a repair? Yes I know, By a
>new skin! But..
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com> |
>
>Quick question: I have an older project (probably the oldest RV,
>going on
>27 years) and I am looking to clean off the antique dust (and sweat!)
>that
Rob,
I would stay away from WD-40. The silicones in it will mess up your
paint job if you don't get it all cleaned up. Use soap and water first,
followed by naptha (Coleman Fuel)
Bill RV4.5 N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
Coleman fuel is not naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is naphtha. Just go buy
a gallon of it (vm&p naphtha) for your cleaning. An alternate is a
solvent that aoto painters use to remove waxes from cars before painting
(prep sol)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent on wing |
Bondo, I have been told, is clay and resin. Since clay is heavy, Bondo is
too. Use one of the fillers made for airplanes.
Dents are part of life, huh?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Jig Question |
As long as the trailing edge of the skin is on center and the spar is on
center by the plumb bob, you wont have a twist. Be sure you put some wedges
of wood or plastic in the gap as you have mentioned.
Mike Rawls (starting wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge hole |
Oh, woe is you - a figure eight hole! Check the archives about how figure
eight holes lead to major aviation disasters! :-)
Don't do a new skin! If you do, you may spend the rest of your life *NOT*
finishing even this one airplane. Patch and go on, I say. Make the next
airplane perfect but then keep it in a museum because if it gets a slight
bit of damage from actual use, as they are wont to do, you would have to
completely rebuild it.
I'm not suggesting that you build a shoddy or unsafe airplane but that you
also not be goaded into trying to build a show plane in your first
effort. If you do go for perfection, be aware that many who do never finish!
They do make rivets in AN426-6xx
hal
>
>
>When drilling a prepunched hole into the rib flange, at the top leading
>edge, the tab on the rib moved away and I ended up making a figure eight
>hole. I was forced to make the hole 3/16" Which will require a a large
>countersunk rivet head. Any suggestions on a repair? Yes I know, By a
>new skin! But..
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip Antenna |
>
>Anybody know if Bob Archer has a website ? Anybody have any comments on the
>built-in wing-tip com antenna....cost....installation...how well it works
>???
Many planes I saw at OSH have a bent whip under and a short "coat hanger
wire" in the baggage compartment. Chief Aircraft has his ants in the
catalog but no in wing tip for RVs.
> if you were to buy a handheld GPS, what brand/model would you buy ?
>I wonder if Warren Gretz' external GPS antenna would boost performance over
>a suction cup antenna.....
I bought a Skyforce monochrome and like it well tho the cigar lighter plug
came apart already. I am using it in the Deb and the came with it antenna
works fine laid up on the glare shield. I bought a Lowe brand active ant
but it has a regular RG58 coax connector and the Skyforce has something
else so I haven't tried it.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Hoffmann Propeller's |
A friend of mine (Roger Maisey) is considering either a Hoffman HO-V132K or
HO-V343K propeller on his RV-6 project.
Engine is a HIO-360-A1A.
Does anyone have any experience with these propellers? If so my friend would
like any info on your experience and if possible a contact phone # so he
could ring for a chat!
Regards,
Arthur Whitehead.
RV-8 Started wings, left one ready to place in jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Broken link on landing light image . . |
Several people wrote to say they couldn't see the image
at http://www.aeroelectric.com/4352.jpg . . .
It's been fixed (unix/linux machines CARE if you
use upper case or lower case in file names! Sorry 'bout
that.
This lamp is quite compact . . . is a sealed assembly so that
the reflector stays clean and bright. It's also a modern haolgen
lamp that has a MUCH longer life than most landing lights offer
for aircraft. It's only about 2-1/2" tall which might
make it attractive for leading edge installations.
Several folk were concerned about heat . . . to be sure,
a 50 watt lamp puts out MOST of its energy in heat . . .
however a halogen lamp puts our a higher percentage of useful
energy (light) for total watts input compared to the
1940-1950's lamps on most certified ships.
Further, since we're talking in terms of 50-55 watt lamps,
the heat problem is less than HALF that posed by mounting
a 100 watt lamp from a Cessna.
The automotive lamp is pretty attractive from a heat
handling perspective because it sreads the forward radiated
heat over a larger surface area than a 50W round lamp
such as the EXH. In either case, dealing with the heat
output of these modern lamps shouldn't be a big deal.
Dee and I just got back from the SW Regional Flyin at
Abilene, TX (used to be in Kerrville). Gave two forums
and made plans for both forums and workshops next year.
Even picked up a nice tailwind for part of the return
trip . . . first time I've ever seen 145kts on the GPS
in the C172XP!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
The beans are soaking and the ham is ready to add to the mix. If you
can make it to sparta Illinois tomorrow you can have all you can eat.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
"Rob Reece" >Quick question: I have an older project
(probably the oldest RV, going on 27 years) and I am looking to clean off the
antique dust (and sweat!) thathas accumulated on the skins over the years.
What makes a good cleaner forthe skins without affecting the Alcad surface,
etc?<<
Rob: FWTW I have been using a common detergent called Simple Green with
cold water and heavy duty Scotch Brite sponge pads to clean prior to priming
and just to get rid of accumulated grime. Seems to work very well for me and
I don't have to worry about disposal of a lot of used solvent when I'm
through.
Harry Crosby (HCRV6(at)aol.com)
Fuselage skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
My can of Coleman says it is naptha petroleum. I found, when doing my
tanks a few years ago, that Coleman fuel was a purer naptha than the naptha
I bought at a paint store, as evidenced by putting a few drops on a glass
slide and seeing what was left after evaporation. The reason naptha makes
a good surface cleaner is that it doesn't evaporate as quickly as, for
example, acetone. Don't use lacquer thinner, as it has a small amount of
some sort of oil in it.
Alex Peterson
-------
> Coleman fuel is not naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is naphtha. Just go buy
> a gallon of it (vm&p naphtha) for your cleaning. An alternate is a
> solvent that aoto painters use to remove waxes from cars before painting
> (prep sol)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge hole |
Your comments are right on target Hal!
I gave up my "Grand Champion" effort after bucking the first rivet.
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Oh, woe is you - a figure eight hole! Check the archives about how figure
>eight holes lead to major aviation disasters! :-)
>
>Don't do a new skin! If you do, you may spend the rest of your life *NOT*
>finishing even this one airplane. Patch and go on, I say. Make the next
>airplane perfect but then keep it in a museum because if it gets a slight
>bit of damage from actual use, as they are wont to do, you would have to
>completely rebuild it.
>
>I'm not suggesting that you build a shoddy or unsafe airplane but that you
>also not be goaded into trying to build a show plane in your first
>effort. If you do go for perfection, be aware that many who do never finish!
>
>They do make rivets in AN426-6xx
>
>hal
>
>
>>
>>
>>When drilling a prepunched hole into the rib flange, at the top leading
>>edge, the tab on the rib moved away and I ended up making a figure eight
>>hole. I was forced to make the hole 3/16" Which will require a a large
>>countersunk rivet head. Any suggestions on a repair? Yes I know, By a
>>new skin! But..
>>--
>>Peter Laurence
>>RV6-A
>>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Empennage (may never get finished at this rate)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Fuel Senders |
I'm considering going with Van's capacitance fuel senders (CFS). There
isn't too much feedback in the archives as they are fairly new. Anyone
using them have any updates? Recommendations? Regrets?
Use of the CFS limits the options for fuel gauges, right? Which gauge do
most use with the CFS? Is the EI the best bang for the buck? What about
Matt's FuelScan?
Cheers,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning up skins |
Do you have to wipe the Coleman fuel off, or just let it evaporate?
Larry Bowen
Rv-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
>
> My can of Coleman says it is naptha petroleum. I found, when doing my
> tanks a few years ago, that Coleman fuel was a purer naptha than
> the naptha
> I bought at a paint store, as evidenced by putting a few drops on a glass
> slide and seeing what was left after evaporation. The reason naptha makes
> a good surface cleaner is that it doesn't evaporate as quickly as, for
> example, acetone. Don't use lacquer thinner, as it has a small amount of
> some sort of oil in it.
>
> Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Centering the Flaps |
I drilled my right flap to the wing, and with the aileron centered and the
wing templates around the flap, the flap is pitched down slightly. It
appears that the curved portion of the upper skin is hitting the flap brace
before it can move up to center. With a little pressure, I can get it to
sit centered, but it is putting pressure on the upper skin against the flap
brace. Has anyone encountered this? When I hook the flap arm to it can I
draw it into place, or should I bend the upper skin to make it sit centered
without pressure?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip Antenna |
In a message dated 10/17/1999 4:50:57 AM Tokyo Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
> if you were to buy a handheld GPS, what brand/model would you buy ?
> I wonder if Warren Gretz' external GPS antenna would boost performance
over
> a suction cup antenn
This depends entirely on how you want to use it any your budget. There is a
great comparison of the Magellan Sky Star Plus vs.the Garman GPS III Pilot on
the AVweb. The lorance model is also very comparable to these and the best
price of the bunch. I bought the Sky Star Plus and am satisfied. Its unique
feature that I really like is the ability to enter aircraft profiles. Then
enter your fuel load and weights and it calculates fuel usage and draws a CG
diagram. Also, knowing your GPS alt. and glide ratio and alt of surrounding
fields, when you press the "nearest" button, it tells you which fields you
can glide to. Its N. American dbase is extensive, covering all of Canada,
Central America, the Caribbean, and Hawaii. Its refresh rate and map drawing
speed is somewhat slower than the Garmin GPS 90 I have used. It has a couple
of minor quirks that are a little annoying and satellite acquisition is
slightly slower and less reliable than a $100 Garmin I compared it to once.
The yoke mount was chinsey and broke on the second flight (but at least it
comes with one. The GPS Pilot III charges extra for all the extras, bringing
its price up a couple hundred dollars)
If I were to do it over, I would still get the Sky Star Plus over the other
midrange GPS's. But I think that it would have been worth the extra $400 to
get a Garmin GPS 195, but that is because I plan to use it mounted to the
panel and use the GPS's HSI instead of a DG. The Sky Star's HSI is good, but
the GPS 195's is significantly better, bigger and with better resolution. I
still may get one and 'mount' dual hand helds.
Dave Leonard
6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
> I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
> the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
> moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
> and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
> were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
> plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
> dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
> move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
> can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
If there is nothing behind your unwanted hole, just rivet in a short rivet.
If there is structure behind, consult the factory for permission to install
an extra rivet right there. Then move on. Build an airplane.
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "riveter" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Centering the Flaps |
I rolled about the first 6 inches of the curved portion so it would clear
where the flap brace is stepped up onto the spar doublers. I made a little
cut and rolled the part inboard of the cut. Apparently it is not unusual to
have to do this.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings will be done in just a few days
Headed to Atlanta
>
> I drilled my right flap to the wing, and with the aileron centered and the
> wing templates around the flap, the flap is pitched down slightly. It
> appears that the curved portion of the upper skin is hitting the
> flap brace
> before it can move up to center. With a little pressure, I can get it to
> sit centered, but it is putting pressure on the upper skin
> against the flap
> brace. Has anyone encountered this? When I hook the flap arm to it can I
> draw it into place, or should I bend the upper skin to make it
> sit centered
> without pressure?
>
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
Mark,
Don't worry about giving up your Grand Champion dreams just yet. Insert a
rivet in the hole and squeeze it. If it is within an inch (possibly even more)
of the inner edge, no one will ever see it. When the empennage is assembled to
the fuselage, that area will be covered by the empennage intersection fairing.
Consider yourself lucky. You goofed, but it won't show!
Please stop banging your head on the wall. You kept me up all last night with
the noise!! :-)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 Wings boy I am really starting to hate prepping for all this priming!
Boca Raton, Fl.
> I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
> the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
> moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
> and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
> were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
> plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
> dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
> move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
> can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
Glen,
I also mounted my Niagra oil cooler on the right side firewall about
centered on the diagonals. This places the front cooler edge above the
horizontal engine mount tube. I made an angle bracket that went across the
bottom front edge of the cooler and fastened with adel clamps on that tube.
Looks like a good solution but I do not have the RV flying yet.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 Fitting RMD lights in wingtips today
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
In a message dated 10/16/99 8:39:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mddickens(at)mindspring.com writes:
<<
I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Empennage (may never get finished at this rate)
>>
Mark, Flatten the dimple back out and get on with it, the tail fairing will
cover it up...... Fred LaForge RV-4 94hrs, just coming out of the
paint shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
>I can't believe I did this, I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the
original hole.
>Mark Dickens
Mark,
Here,s a trick I picked up on the RV list. Cut the head, and most
of the shank, off a rivet and squeeze it into the hole. Then file it
smooth.
Don't ask
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip Antenna |
Bob archer's e-mail address that I have is... 74301.1665(at)compuserve.com
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continous years
>
>>
>>Anybody know if Bob Archer has a website ? Anybody have any comments on the
>>built-in wing-tip com antenna....cost....installation...how well it works
>>???
>
>Many planes I saw at OSH have a bent whip under and a short "coat hanger
>wire" in the baggage compartment. Chief Aircraft has his ants in the
>catalog but no in wing tip for RVs.
>
>
>> if you were to buy a handheld GPS, what brand/model would you buy ?
>>I wonder if Warren Gretz' external GPS antenna would boost performance over
>>a suction cup antenna.....
>
>I bought a Skyforce monochrome and like it well tho the cigar lighter plug
>came apart already. I am using it in the Deb and the came with it antenna
>works fine laid up on the glare shield. I bought a Lowe brand active ant
>but it has a regular RG58 coax connector and the Skyforce has something
>else so I haven't tried it.
>
>hal
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip Antenna |
In a message dated 10/16/99 22:35:38, VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com writes:
In a message dated 10/17/1999 4:50:57 AM Tokyo Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
> if you were to buy a handheld GPS, what brand/model would you buy ?
> I wonder if Warren Gretz' external GPS antenna would boost performance
over
> a suction cup antenn
This depends entirely on how you want to use it any your budget. There is a
great comparison of the Magellan Sky Star Plus vs.the Garman GPS III Pilot on
the AVweb. The lorance model is also very comparable to these and the best
price of the bunch.
....... But I think that it would have been worth the extra $400 to
get a Garmin GPS 195, but that is because I plan to use it mounted to the
panel and use the GPS's HSI instead of a DG. The Sky Star's HSI is good, but
the GPS 195's is significantly better, bigger and with better resolution. I
still may get one and 'mount' dual hand helds.
Dave Leonard
6QB
>>
I agree with this . I have been flying for a year or so with two GPSs. My
panel mount is a KLX 135A, and my hand held is a GPS III Pilot model.
Normally I keep the panel job on the CDI function such as it is, and the
Garmin Pilot on the moving map. There are a couple other variations too, and
they add up to a marvelous capability to be up to snuff on frequencies, Class
B, Warning areas, etc. It is also a good cross check when you put the same
flight plan in both to see they agree.
With this in mind I too feel it would be even better with a 195 as the panel
mount (maybe the 295! ;+).
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Cornering speed (was: Non recoverable corner) |
Tailwinds took the theory out of the classroom and into the air. A 6 G
turn at the buffet (you are at Va (maneuver) or Vc (corner)) is indeed
not something you do on a lark. Training "IS" required. A maneuver
such as this should not have to be used to save ones tail, just to fly
up ones tail.
A max rate turn at Va in an RV would give you a turn rate on the order
of 50deg/sec. The picture out the windshield is changing fast. Take an
F-15 jock who doesn't have GA experience up with you and do this then
listen to their exclamations of "Holy Sh..." They are used to 6 G's
plus but at a Va in the 300K - 400K range. This translates into turn
rates in the 20deg/sec range. Our turn rates also give us a much
tighter (smaller) circle in the 300' diameter range. As Doug says
though we don't have much excess power (has anybody incorporated an
afterburner?) so these numbers are instantaneous turn rates and radius
unless you trade altitude (potential energy) for airspeed (kinetic
energy). So a sliceback could allow you to maintain these high rates of
turn until the ground intervened.
Well Doug, now do you see why I gave the short answer first? This is a
fun topic to discuss and fly and we could go on for a long time. Bottom
line for everyone. Read Dougs' letter again.
Have fun and keep the wings on the plane. Write me if you're interested
in training in this area. We use T-34s at Aviation Safety Training to
address these issues.
Joe Waltz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
In a message dated 10/17/99 6:14:21, chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net writes:
<< skin popped off of the male dimple die
> and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
> were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? >>
Mark,
Don't worry about giving up your Grand Champion dreams just yet. Insert a
rivet in the hole and squeeze it. If it is within an inch (possibly even more)
of the inner edge, no one will ever see it. When the empennage is assembled to
the fuselage, that area will be covered by the empennage intersection fairing.
Consider yourself lucky. You goofed, but it won't show!
Please stop banging your head on the wall. You kept me up all last night with
the noise!! :-)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 Wings boy I am really starting to hate prepping for all this priming!
Boca Raton, Fl.
HEY,.... there are two other possibilities: If it is on the bottom, skip
the rivet. "It it ain't doing work don't put it on." If it's on the top,
hold off a while, you may be able to put a plate nut there for the fairing
and use the hole for that.
Meanwhile, you have not made it any heavier, slower, or uglier. You have
merely climbed the learning curve a little higher. As a minimum, you will
now be less likely to snicker when viewing other projects.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Centering the Flaps |
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 11:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Centering the Flaps
>
>I drilled my right flap to the wing, and with the aileron centered and the
>wing templates around the flap, the flap is pitched down slightly. It
>appears that the curved portion of the upper skin is hitting the flap brace
>before it can move up to center. With a little pressure, I can get it to
>sit centered, but it is putting pressure on the upper skin against the flap
>brace. Has anyone encountered this? When I hook the flap arm to it can I
>draw it into place, or should I bend the upper skin to make it sit centered
>without pressure?
>
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
If I understand the problem, you will have to curl the leading edge of the
flap to a smaller radius to eliminate the interference. The trick is to
form the skin into a spiral with a decreasing radius toward the leading
edge. You do this with your hands, exercising care that you don't form a
crease at the inboard rivet line where the material has a natural tendency
to bend first.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit mounting flaps as we speak/type
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Welder question - gas or MIG |
Anyone know about welders? I had to butcher the slider frame on my RV-6 and
now it has to be welded. I have a friend who will gas weld it but I began
to think that it would be handy to have the equipment to do this myself. I
have a few minutes experience with MIG at OSH and feel comfortable with it.
I also have an hour or two with oxy-asetalene (sp?). I have a large
Craftsman electric welder but it is surely not the thing to use for this
kind of project.
For building airplanes, can it be said that one type is better than the
other? If so, I'd like to hear about it.
I saw an ad in Harbor Freight (special deal) for a MIG at $169. Home Depot
has a couple sizes but in the upper $300's and mid $400's.
If all things are equal, I'd rather have MIG.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
Buffalo Grove, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A Flying Story NOT RV RELATED |
Thanks for that story of ol' Heinz.
I'd like to hear more of them. Even if it's not RV stuff.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
FWIW when I was down getting my finger tabs welded on by Vetterman I asked the
same question. He said that if you are going to spend the money on something
other than gas, the way to go would be TIG. Reason stated was that it is hard to
control weld penetration with a MIG welder. I have a Henrob Gas outfit and
welded my slider frame tabs with no problem. The reason for letting Larry weld
the pedals was I figured I might do more harm than good by welding it myself,
plus if you have ever seen Larry's exhaust, his weld are a work of art.
Gary Zilik
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> Anyone know about welders? I had to butcher the slider frame on my RV-6 and
> now it has to be welded. I have a friend who will gas weld it but I began
> to think that it would be handy to have the equipment to do this myself. I
> have a few minutes experience with MIG at OSH and feel comfortable with it.
> I also have an hour or two with oxy-asetalene (sp?). I have a large
> Craftsman electric welder but it is surely not the thing to use for this
> kind of project.
>
> For building airplanes, can it be said that one type is better than the
> other? If so, I'd like to hear about it.
> I saw an ad in Harbor Freight (special deal) for a MIG at $169. Home Depot
> has a couple sizes but in the upper $300's and mid $400's.
> If all things are equal, I'd rather have MIG.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy
> Buffalo Grove, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
Mark: If it is at the inboard edge why not just squeeze in a rivet and go
on. If the rib flange is in the way of the shop head you could drill a # 30
hole for it in the flange, sounds like you have plenty on edge distance. The
whole thing will be covered by the HS fairing in the end won't it?
HCRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
Why not let your friend teach you how, but let him do the critical welding
on your plane. I bought a torch set, I can and have welded many things but
not on my plane. I think if I practiced many hours, I could but the time
between needing welding done is too many hours with too little practice. SO
I use always use the services of an experienced professional.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continous years
>
>Anyone know about welders? I had to butcher the slider frame on my RV-6 and
>now it has to be welded. I have a friend who will gas weld it but I began
>to think that it would be handy to have the equipment to do this myself. I
>have a few minutes experience with MIG at OSH and feel comfortable with it.
>I also have an hour or two with oxy-asetalene (sp?). I have a large
>Craftsman electric welder but it is surely not the thing to use for this
>kind of project.
>
>For building airplanes, can it be said that one type is better than the
>other? If so, I'd like to hear about it.
>I saw an ad in Harbor Freight (special deal) for a MIG at $169. Home Depot
>has a couple sizes but in the upper $300's and mid $400's.
>If all things are equal, I'd rather have MIG.
>
>Thanks in advance for any comments.
>Tom Barnes -6 canopy
>Buffalo Grove, IL
>
>
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
Visit our web site at... http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Crack Repair |
Listers,
It can happen long after the canopy is done. When I masked the
canopy to paint, it was fine. A few days later, for reasons unknown, I
have a 3" and a 2" crack parallel to the RV-6 slider center bow, about
.5" from the center bow. The cracks have a few "fingers." The cracks
don't intersect any hole, rivet, metal, or anything. I assume there was
some impact damage, although I don't recall anything bumping the
canopy.
Repair: According to AC 43.13-1B I should stop drill the cracks with
#30 bit, then insert a 1/8" acrylic rod (glued in place with
"polymerizable cement"). I can do that, but I'd prefer not to make the
cracks even more noticable by drilling 1/8 holes.
According to the archives, several listers have tried using a #60 bit
(.040") to stop drill cracks. Has that worked well in the long run?
I can fabricate little bitty pieces of plexi (using belt sander) to fill the
holes, since I doubt I'll find .039" fiberglass rods.
Thanks,
tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
Most welders of aircraft will tell you that gas is preferable to Mig because
the heat is less concentrated and the resulting weld will have less stress in
it and in the adjacent metal. For nonstructural purposes this is not of
interest. This Mig vs Gas welding is a full blown controversy with each side
having good points and bad and is very complex indeed. The best aircraft
welder I ever met would not have anything to do with Mig for structural
welding and he has lot's of good reasons. Personally, I think with proper
(and that is part of the argument) application and normalizing afterwards Mig
could give more traditional methods a run for the money but to be safe--go
gas. JR, A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
And the same for Tig, while a more acceptable method of structural welding it
too concentrates heat and therefore resulting stresses in the weld and
adjacent steel. Though far superior to Mig, Tig still does not have the
following that traditional gas welding has when it comes to aircraft
structure. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Crack Repair |
Get some Weldon -3 and a new sharp syringe (glass one if you can find it, if
not, be sure to work quickly) and fill the crack with it and keep wiping off
the excess...this will fuse the crack together. Oh yeah, I think the stop
drill is inevitable. Find an EAA sticker to put over it! We can compare
canopy cracks at Oshkosh next year!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sunday, October 17, 1999 11:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Crack Repair
>
>Listers,
>
>It can happen long after the canopy is done. When I masked the
>canopy to paint, it was fine. A few days later, for reasons unknown, I
>have a 3" and a 2" crack parallel to the RV-6 slider center bow, about
>.5" from the center bow. The cracks have a few "fingers." The cracks
>don't intersect any hole, rivet, metal, or anything. I assume there was
>some impact damage, although I don't recall anything bumping the
>canopy.
>
>Repair: According to AC 43.13-1B I should stop drill the cracks with
>#30 bit, then insert a 1/8" acrylic rod (glued in place with
>"polymerizable cement"). I can do that, but I'd prefer not to make the
>cracks even more noticable by drilling 1/8 holes.
>
>According to the archives, several listers have tried using a #60 bit
>(.040") to stop drill cracks. Has that worked well in the long run?
>
>I can fabricate little bitty pieces of plexi (using belt sander) to fill
the
>holes, since I doubt I'll find .039" fiberglass rods.
>
>Thanks,
>
>tim
>******
>Tim Lewis
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>N47TD RV-6A, painting
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Comic book on coax connectors . . . |
There was some discussion a couple of weeks ago about "screw on"
connectors for coax antenna cable and some of us got our tongues
wrapped around our eyeteeth and couldn't see what we were saying.
I've just published some pictures of various BNC style connectors
with a link from the "what's new" box at our website. Interested
builders are invited to click on:
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip Antenna |
>In a message dated 10/17/1999 4:50:57 AM Tokyo Standard Time, 6430(at)axion.net
>writes:
>
>> if you were to buy a handheld GPS, what brand/model would you buy ?
>> I wonder if Warren Gretz' external GPS antenna would boost performance
>over
>> a suction cup antenn
Just flew home from the SW Regional flyin with DUAL GPS
receivers that cost less than $200 for the pair. Found
it handy to poke around on one to utilize the various
functions while leaving the other on moving compass display
for heading control.
Actually, I was testing a Magellan GPS 300 receiver against
my GPS 2000. I've had the 2000 for several years now and
haven't turned on a VOR receiver in that time either. The
2000 has been replaced by the 300 in Magellan's low cost
GPS line-up and since I use them for door prizes at
my weekend seminars, I wanted to be sure the 300 was as
good or perhaps better than the 2000.
Sho' 'nuf. It locks on quicker, doesn't show loss of lock
on the few occasions that the 2000 did, uses 2 AA batteries
for 24 hrs versus 4 AA batteries for about 12 on the 2000.
Of course, both receivers have to set on little velcro
pads up on the glarshield of a high wing airplane to see
enough birds out the windshield. In terms of value for
dollars paid, they're real hard to beat.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Crack Repair |
The sticky stuff in some tapes, when applied on stressed plexi, will cause
cracks. I took a scrap piece of plexi, bent it to induce some significant
stress, and applied various tape to it. A few weeks later, I noticed
crazing under the tape, don't remember if any were worse, just be aware.
Alex Peterson
> Listers,
>
> It can happen long after the canopy is done. When I masked the
> canopy to paint, it was fine. A few days later, for reasons unknown, I
> have a 3" and a 2" crack parallel to the RV-6 slider center bow, about
> .5" from the center bow. The cracks have a few "fingers." The cracks
> don't intersect any hole, rivet, metal, or anything. I assume there was
> some impact damage, although I don't recall anything bumping the
> canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
The naptha dissolves oils etc., so you must wipe it off. If you don't, you
will simply redistribute the oils evenly. That is why the slow evaporation
is nice - it gives one time to wipe it off.
Alex Peterson
----------
> Do you have to wipe the Coleman fuel off, or just let it evaporate?
>
> Larry Bowen
> Rv-8 wings
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> >
> > My can of Coleman says it is naptha petroleum. I found, when doing my
> > tanks a few years ago, that Coleman fuel was a purer naptha than
> > the naptha
> > I bought at a paint store, as evidenced by putting a few drops on a
glass
> > slide and seeing what was left after evaporation. The reason naptha
makes
> > a good surface cleaner is that it doesn't evaporate as quickly as, for
> > example, acetone. Don't use lacquer thinner, as it has a small amount
of
> > some sort of oil in it.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
The reinforced wing walk area on the RV6 is about 12" - The wing walk tape
sold in the Vans catalog is 9 1/2 ". Is it best to put put wider tape on?
Also has anyone tried the white tape at ACS? Thanks
Dave Beizer
RV-6A Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Potential heating problems with suggested lamps . . . |
Been getting a lot of questions concerning the two lamps
I illustrated as possible candidates for landing lights
on airplanes. I thought I'd elaborate for the group's
benefits. To date, I'm not aware of anyone who has installed
the 4352 an airplane. I had a Kitfox or Avid builder builder
put a pair of the little spotlights in the underside of each
wing to provide peripheral vision clues during landing and
he reported this arrangement to be satisfactory to his
needs.
Folks are still asking about heat. A few minutes ago
I conducted a very subjective experiment. Went out in
the driveway and hooked a 4352 to my van battery with
the engine idling. Again, just pointing the thing
around the neighborhood, I reaffirmed my first impression
that ONE of these lamps would suffice to land an airplane.
After three minutes, the lamp was too hot to touch for
more than a few seconds near the rear of the housing
where the connector penetrates it and on the large top and
bottom flats.
The mounting rim was quite easy to hold in the fingers.
Holding one's hand out in front would produce a too
warm to stay there after 30 seconds or so. My impression
is that a piece of lexan over this bulb is in no danger
of overheating.
If one installed a 4352 in EACH wing and used a wig-wag
circuit for collision avoidance, the heat energy from
each bulb goes down by a factor of 2 'cause it's on
half the time. Total system power is the same as for
one lamp since only one bulb is on at a time. In the
final seconds before flare, you could run both bulbs
continuously for the actual landing.
This seems like a good way to (1) have dual bulbs
so that you'll always have one if the other burns
out, (2) very effective recognition lighting, (3)
110 watts of "landing" light on a energy budget nearly
equal to one 55 watt lamp, (4) buy new lamps at
K-mart for a fraction of the cost of clasical "aircraft
quality" landing lights.
If someone will dope out the mechanical details of
mouting these in their particular project and send
me drawings/pictures. I'll publish them on our website.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate RV-8A pics |
Listers,
I've added a page of detail pics of Van's yellow RV-8A to my webpage. I
didn't add any other RV pics since Paul Besing has already done a fine job
of that! I hope to post new pics of my RV8 within a couple of weeks...with
the wings and tail on. Yes, it's getting close. :)
Copperstate pics page at:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/copperstate.html
P.S. as told to me in a recent discussion with Pat K. (-6A) about the row of
Long Ezes and Vari ezes parked on their noses next to the RV row at
Copperstate: "they're kneeling in reverence to the RV's" HAH! Man I love
that. Good one, Pat! Also, as my wife commented, "They look broken...not
just parked".
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
______________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel Senders |
Hi Larry:
For what it is worth, I have installed my capacitance sender in my first
tank, and found the installation straight-forward. I had no problems at all
with it.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
closing first wing
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-8A pics |
Brian,
Thanks for the pictures.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A Emp mounted
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
18 Oct 1999 08:24:28.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Power failure in max performance climb and, yes... |
AoA
Just to clarify, you would scan the LRI the same as the ASI. Hold the mark down
over the fence, set up, one last look before you flare, still on the mark, eyes
at the end of the runway. Land the plane. Who said anything about "staring" at
the thing. You don't scan your airspeed while in the groove? Keep splittin those
hairs boys.
VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com on 10/16/99 08:42:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To answer the question about who is gonna be staring at a gauge during
> final approach that was posed by another lister.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New fiberglass nose gear fairing |
Terry,
Right now, no one, not us nor Van's has directions to install the nose
gear fairing. Please give me a call if you need help with it.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Any thoughts on how many watts it takes on average for a small plane to be
>able to light up the runway on approach and landing? I like Bob's idea of
>the 50w 4352s for the wings, a total of 100w. (Got to keep the math simple)
>What about a third light (100w?) in the nose for a total of 200w? Where are
>the best places to mount lights in the wing - out towards the tips or in
>closer? In my old C-130 days, we had a light that rotated down from the
>bottom of the wing to point forward. After landing, you flip the switch and
>to rotated back up into the wing. Could this be done on a Kitfox? Anyone
>with experience on what is the minimum amount of light needed to make it
>worthwhile in the first place please step forward.
>
I tried this experiment a few years back while we owned an
airport complete with J-3 Cub: I took an ordinary sportsman's
lantern (6v, 0.8a bulb for a grand total of 4.8 watts!) and
duct-taped it to the strut so that it pointed in the right
place for looking ahead in a wheel landing attitude. I can
tell you that this light was entirely adequate for performing
a series of touch-n-go's in the Cub long after the sun went
down. If I needed to build a minimum energy system (perhaps
wind generator powered?) for night landings in the Cub,
a pair of 5w fixtures on each wing would be quite useful
and doable.
Adequate lighting has very little to do with watts, it has
to do with what you can see. If you fly off of runways in the
bush and expect to crow-hop over an occasional deer or
possum on the runway, then a few kilowatts of police-
hellicopter klieg-lights may not be enough. If you need to
accomplish reliably controlled landings on a runway that
is already outlined in the little row of bulbs down each
side, then it can be a whole different story (the runway
lamps on our airport were 8 watt sewing machine bulbs!).
Piling on the watts and lumens may be satisfying in some
respects. I'll suggest that we're building the best airplanes
that have ever flown. Part of being "best" means optomizing
hardware to the task while considering temperature
rise, power consumption, installation ease, utility,
cost/performace ratio, etc. We who have roots deep in
the certified aircraft world bring a lot of baggage with
us when it comes to sorting out what's useful versus
what's found on the heavy-iron birds we learned in.
Right here in these forums is where we sort through the
pieces and parts to see what's really useful while
hopefully eliminating all things from the hard-to-do pile.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <kpwarfield(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Kit 4 Sale or Trade |
Lost my job, must sell completed tail and partially completed wing kits.
Need $4,500 in order to pay bills for next couple months. Some tools
included. Have strobes, electric elevator trim, and fuel
senders.Willing to complete wings for $$. Consider trade for 200+hp
turbo shaft engine (I know someone that will buy it from me). Reply to:
kpwarfield(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential heating problems with suggested lamps . . . |
Bob, you have very nearly described the landing lights on my RV-6!
At first glance the Duckworks lights that Van's sells appear to be the
same light you illustrate on your website. However, you stated the 4352
unit is sealed whereas the Duckworks light can be disassembled. The lens
and housing is removed and the reflector with bulb is installed into a
sheet metal bracket that is fitted into the leading edge of the wing. I
see no reason why the 4352 couldn't be installed in a similar manner.
I installed a Duckworks unit in each wing, installed a Gall's wig wag
flasher, and use the system just as you described. Since my plane is a
tail dragger, one light is aimed on the same axis as the plane in level
flight (for landing) and the other is aimed slightly lower for taxi
purposes. I have found the system to be effective both for recognition
and landing/taxi. People often comment on the flasher after I have
landed at a flyin breakfast and say it is very visible.
The entire system cost was about $190 and as you stated, bulbs are
available at WalMart for $4.55 each along with the 100 watt bulbs if you
really want to crank up the power. No doubt the cost could be brought
way down if a builder fabricated their own mount for the 4352's. More
info on this installation is available here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/wing_lg3.html
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-------------------------
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> Been getting a lot of questions concerning the two lamps
> I illustrated as possible candidates for landing lights
> on airplanes. I thought I'd elaborate for the group's
> benefits. To date, I'm not aware of anyone who has installed
> the 4352 an airplane. I had a Kitfox or Avid builder builder
> put a pair of the little spotlights in the underside of each
> wing to provide peripheral vision clues during landing and
> he reported this arrangement to be satisfactory to his
> needs.
>
> Folks are still asking about heat. A few minutes ago
> I conducted a very subjective experiment. Went out in
> the driveway and hooked a 4352 to my van battery with
> the engine idling. Again, just pointing the thing
> around the neighborhood, I reaffirmed my first impression
> that ONE of these lamps would suffice to land an airplane.
> After three minutes, the lamp was too hot to touch for
> more than a few seconds near the rear of the housing
> where the connector penetrates it and on the large top and
> bottom flats.
>
> The mounting rim was quite easy to hold in the fingers.
> Holding one's hand out in front would produce a too
> warm to stay there after 30 seconds or so. My impression
> is that a piece of lexan over this bulb is in no danger
> of overheating.
>
> If one installed a 4352 in EACH wing and used a wig-wag
> circuit for collision avoidance, the heat energy from
> each bulb goes down by a factor of 2 'cause it's on
> half the time. Total system power is the same as for
> one lamp since only one bulb is on at a time. In the
> final seconds before flare, you could run both bulbs
> continuously for the actual landing.
>
> This seems like a good way to (1) have dual bulbs
> so that you'll always have one if the other burns
> out, (2) very effective recognition lighting, (3)
> 110 watts of "landing" light on a energy budget nearly
> equal to one 55 watt lamp, (4) buy new lamps at
> K-mart for a fraction of the cost of clasical "aircraft
> quality" landing lights.
>
> If someone will dope out the mechanical details of
> mouting these in their particular project and send
> me drawings/pictures. I'll publish them on our website.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential heating problems with suggested lamps . |
. .
>
>Bob, you have very nearly described the landing lights on my RV-6!
>
>At first glance the Duckworks lights that Van's sells appear to be the
>same light you illustrate on your website. However, you stated the 4352
>unit is sealed whereas the Duckworks light can be disassembled. The lens
>and housing is removed and the reflector with bulb is installed into a
>sheet metal bracket that is fitted into the leading edge of the wing. I
>see no reason why the 4352 couldn't be installed in a similar manner.
Aren't the Duckworth's lamps round? The 4353 is very short
rectangle which looks like it would work in a leading edge
installation . . . if I recall the Duckworth's installation
they're in the tips and round . . . none the less, the idea
of using modern, automotive illumination devices to replace
the 1950's FAA/PMA/STC tractor lamps is a good idea.
>I installed a Duckworks unit in each wing, installed a Gall's wig wag
>flasher, and use the system just as you described. Since my plane is a
>tail dragger, one light is aimed on the same axis as the plane in level
>flight (for landing) and the other is aimed slightly lower for taxi
>purposes. I have found the system to be effective both for recognition
>and landing/taxi. People often comment on the flasher after I have
>landed at a flyin breakfast and say it is very visible.
>
>The entire system cost was about $190 and as you stated, bulbs are
>available at WalMart for $4.55 each along with the 100 watt bulbs if you
>really want to crank up the power. No doubt the cost could be brought
>way down if a builder fabricated their own mount for the 4352's. More
>info on this installation is available here:
>
>http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
>
>http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/wing_lg3.html
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
Thanks, I'll check it out.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential heating problems with suggested lamps . |
. .
>
>Bob, you have very nearly described the landing lights on my RV-6!
Just took a look at the links you sent me. Looks like
the rectangular leading edge installation to me. I'm sure
that the RV'ers are aware of Duckworth's installation
but I'll share the links with other list-servers to
see if they'll help spark some ideas . . .
Thanks again.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV4 canopy covers |
My apologies to the list, but I've lost Carroll Byrd's email address.
Carroll,
Our canopy covers for the RV4 are available in the new lightweight fabric
Evolution 4 for $135 and in the lined silver polyester for $175.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk tape |
No, leave some of the reinforced area out of the wing walk material...in
spite of what you tell people they will (I guarantee you) step beyond
anything you put there. Leave yourself a bit of "insurance" and hope for the
best!
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 10/17/99 |
RV6-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
> RV6-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 10/17/99: 0
Just checking to make sure I am setup properly.
Jim Sears and Bentley Floyd are you guy out there? We met at the Bowling Green
Airshow!
--
Suring the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/7373/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lemen, Ted Ce" <ted.ce.lemen(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 10/17/99 |
Test was successful.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bobby Hester [SMTP:bhester(at)apex.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 1:32 PM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 10/17/99
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Bobby Hester
>
> RV6-List Digest Server wrote:
>
> > *
> > RV6-List Digest Archive
> > ---
> > Total Messages Posted Sun 10/17/99: 0
>
> Just checking to make sure I am setup properly.
> Jim Sears and Bentley Floyd are you guy out there? We met at the Bowling
> Green
> Airshow!
>
> --
> Suring the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/7373/
> And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
Pay someone to weld it for you and then learn to weld on scraps. I hate
to see grown men cry. Of course I am sure Van would be happy to sell a
new slider.
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know about welders? I had to butcher the slider frame on my RV-6 and
> now it has to be welded. I have a friend who will gas weld it but I began
> to think that it would be handy to have the equipment to do this myself. I
> have a few minutes experience with MIG at OSH and feel comfortable with it.
> I also have an hour or two with oxy-asetalene (sp?). I have a large
> Craftsman electric welder but it is surely not the thing to use for this
> kind of project.
>
> For building airplanes, can it be said that one type is better than the
> other? If so, I'd like to hear about it.
> I saw an ad in Harbor Freight (special deal) for a MIG at $169. Home Depot
> has a couple sizes but in the upper $300's and mid $400's.
> If all things are equal, I'd rather have MIG.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy
> Buffalo Grove, IL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Welder question - gas or MIG |
Tom,
I recently welded an entire fuselage for another project I have been working on.
I went thru the same questions trying to decide about gas or TIG welding.
I dismissed mig because it requires a rather large end pice on the hand unit and
could not get into the acute corners we usually find on aircraft frames. I
ended up just using gas and it turned out great with no warping. I just made
sure to normalize each weld. The best part was it cost a whole lot less.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Sun, 17 Oct 1999 1:26:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Tom Barnes
writes:
>
> Anyone know about welders? I had to butcher the slider frame on my RV-6 and
> now it has to be welded. I have a friend who will gas weld it but I began
> to think that it would be handy to have the equipment to do this myself. I
> have a few minutes experience with MIG at OSH and feel comfortable with it.
> I also have an hour or two with oxy-asetalene (sp?). I have a large
> Craftsman electric welder but it is surely not the thing to use for this
> kind of project.
>
> For building airplanes, can it be said that one type is better than the
> other? If so, I'd like to hear about it.
> I saw an ad in Harbor Freight (special deal) for a MIG at $169. Home Depot
> has a couple sizes but in the upper $300's and mid $400's.
> If all things are equal, I'd rather have MIG.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy
> Buffalo Grove, IL
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuzzy Fiberglass |
After wet sanding some of my fiberglass layups, they've turned fuzzy!
Obviously, I've sanded into the cloth... Anyway, how in the heck do I get
rid of the fuzzies? More sanding sure isn't going to help...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential heating problems with suggested lamps .. . |
Bob,
I believe you are confusing the Duckworth lights with the RMD wingtip lamps.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
> Aren't the Duckworth's lamps round? The 4353 is very short
> rectangle which looks like it would work in a leading edge
> installation . . . if I recall the Duckworth's installation
> they're in the tips and round
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuzzy Fiberglass |
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuzzy Fiberglass
>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 18:47:01 EDT
>
>
>After wet sanding some of my fiberglass layups, they've turned fuzzy!
>Obviously, I've sanded into the cloth... Anyway, how in the heck do I get
>rid of the fuzzies? More sanding sure isn't going to help...
>
>Kyle Boatright
Kyle,
Brush some resin onto it, or Superfil. That should smooth it out nicely.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
wings on, tail on, money gone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuzzy Fiberglass |
Fill with epoxy, cover with microballoons, and sand. As a general rule, I
don't sand fiberglass that much. If you use Peel Ply while doing the
layups, and fill with Microballoons or Superfill, you have a much better
surface to sand.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 11:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuzzy Fiberglass
>
>
>After wet sanding some of my fiberglass layups, they've turned fuzzy!
>Obviously, I've sanded into the cloth... Anyway, how in the heck do I get
>rid of the fuzzies? More sanding sure isn't going to help...
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuzzy Fiberglass |
Let the moisture dry out, then squeegee in a coat of epoxy. The cloth must
not have been well saturated with the resin. Make squeegee from coffee can
type plastic lid. Cottage cheese or other lids work just as well.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 6:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuzzy Fiberglass
>
>
>After wet sanding some of my fiberglass layups, they've turned fuzzy!
>Obviously, I've sanded into the cloth... Anyway, how in the heck do I get
>rid of the fuzzies? More sanding sure isn't going to help...
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Fuzzy Fiberglass |
Fill with epoxy, cover with microballoons, and sand. As a general rule, I
don't sand fiberglass that much. If you use Peel Ply while doing the
layups, and fill with Microballoons or Superfill, you have a much better
surface to sand.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 11:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuzzy Fiberglass
>>
>>
>>After wet sanding some of my fiberglass layups, they've turned fuzzy!
>>Obviously, I've sanded into the cloth... Anyway, how in the heck do I
get
>>rid of the fuzzies? More sanding sure isn't going to help...
>>
>>Kyle Boatright
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: vertical fin offset |
In a message dated 10/15/99 11:04:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
<< Richard Hanson from San Ramon CA. had his -6 at OSH (silver with dragon
on side) with a very nicely integrated servo controlled trimtab on it's
rudder. He said it worked very well with no adverse penalties.
Incidentally, this airplane has numerous other interesting features- the
one-piece carbon fiber tip-up canopy frame was a thing of beauty- the
struts vanished into hidden slots when it closed, flush outside latches,
F.I. intake in cowl inlet, etc. >>
Let me jump in here and clarify a few things for the record, since I know
this plane and its builder very well. First of all this is an RH-1 (says so
on the registration) known as the Dragon Master which was built from an RV-6
kit and is owned by Roger Hansen of San Ramon. Rich and Karol Hansen (no
relation to Roger) of Pleasanton who are also based at our field (Livermore,
CA) own the 6A slider that took a Lindy at OSH and Grand Champion at
Copperstate so I can see how one could get confused. However, these are two
different planes.
Anyway, Roger's Dragon Master has an IO-360 angle valve engine and he gets to
altitude fast enough that rudder trim is hardly needed. This is what Steve
Barnard told me as well regarding his 6A with the same engine. The carbon
fiber tip up canopy frame occurred because Roger couldn't make the metal one
work so he, being the expert composite craftsman he is, decided it would be
easier to make it out of compost. On the trip to the painter the fuselage
was placed backwards on the trailer and the canopy tie down (the latch was
not yet installed) came undone. The canopy flipped up in the slipstream and
did some fuselage damage, but very little damage occurred to the canopy
frame. It is that rigid.
He made the custom cowling for the 200 hp engine also. He is quite a good
machinist and he engineered and built the nice flush canopy latch. He didn't
like the angled panel as designed, so his panel is vertical. He has an
auxiliary fuel tank in the angled area behind the seats so that he can fly to
Mulege, Mexico nonstop. All of this makes the airplane a little heavy so his
Gross Weight is 2200 lb.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
In a message dated 10/15/99 6:33:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
<< I am working on mounting my oil cooler to the firewall on my RV-6. My
angle pieces along the top and bottom edges of the cooler pick up
mounting points on the firewall diagonals. This setup seems rather
rigid, however Van's says I MUST provide support for the front side of
the cooler as well. But that's about all they have to say on the
subject.
How many pieces of what size angle should I run diagonally from the
front bottom of the oil cooler to the firewall? >>
I have not seen the configuration of the Positech, but for the Niagara/SW
type cooler with parallel front and rear flanges you should use long bolts
that span the two flanges and then place aluminum or steel spacers on the
bolts between the two flanges.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up skins |
In a message dated 10/16/99 8:19:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
<< My can of Coleman says it is naptha >>
Actually it is naphtha.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk tape |
In a message dated 10/17/99 8:42:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com writes:
<< The reinforced wing walk area on the RV6 is about 12" - The wing walk tape
sold in the Vans catalog is 9 1/2 ". Is it best to put wider tape on?
Also has anyone tried the white tape at ACS? >>
The 12" white tape from ACS is what I used and I think the white choice is
the right choice for a white plane.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Lack of grounding on the SW senders |
Well fellow rvators, I ran into a strange problem.
I was just about to install my tank with the sender in the 2nd bay when
I decided to just one last time check the reading.
To my supprise I measured meg-ohms between the fuelsender output and the
tank frame.
When I leak-tested my tank i found some leakage around the screws and
sealed those with sealant.
Well, now between the sender frame and the sender output I can measure
the correct ohm reading but the heavy duty mounting plate appears to be
totally isolated from the tank. I guess the screws were the conduit from
the sender frame through the platenuts to the fueltank.
Hmm. oh wise men, what to do, just run a bonding wire from the
fuelsender housing.
Where to put such a wire, under one of the five mouting screws?? the
sender housing sits on a rubber gasket which can be torqued only so
much. which means the eye of the terminal will see only so much contact
pressure.
Strange indeed, I guess it's good sealand though ;-)
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SW Regional EAA Fly-in |
What about that beautiful RED RV-6A that flew all the way from So Calif?? Had
a great trip... my 68 yr old mother flew all the way with me and loved it. We
had a great time at the airshow. Lots of RV's!!
6hrs and 10 minutes flying time from Los Angeles to Abilene, TX... gotta love
these planes!!
Walt N79WH (220 hrs )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Psst! Need an engine monitor? |
Is it a secret, or I'm I just the last to know that Allegro has a web site
now?
http://www.allegroavionics.com/
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Anyone interested in attending an informal RV gathering, we are hosting one
in Cadillac, MI this Saturday AM, the 23rd. We will be there for a start
time of 10:00am with Coffee and Rolls. Chapter 678 members will have chili
ready by 11:00am and we will be around untiul early afternoon. Wexford
County Airport is the location, on the south side of the field. Our Chapter
Quansut hut and a few hangers are located there. We have one RV-8 QB and a
RV-4 under construction as well as an Acrosport Bi- Plane on site.
We have several builders confirmed by either air or by car. Please contact
me if you need directions, at (231) 723-8874 or dbell(at)manisteenational.com
I will get you travel directions. If flying in look for the signs at the
taxiways directing you to the Quansut of chapter 678.
The colors are still good, so come on up or down for some light food, and
meet some new builders.
Doug Bell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel Senders |
Dear Larry and others,
I now have over 75 hours on my RV8 with the capacitance type fuel sensors
and the Electronics International gauge. The performance of this setup is
PERFECT. It is ultra accurate and no glitches. It measures down to one
gallon and when it says that you have 8 gallons left, it is accurate within
one quart or less. There is no fluctuating indications or other problems
with the EI gauge. I am very happy with this setup and would recommend it
to all. I will never ever use a float sensor again.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
flying at last
----------
> From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel Senders
> Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 10:23 PM
>
>
> I'm considering going with Van's capacitance fuel senders (CFS). There
> isn't too much feedback in the archives as they are fairly new. Anyone
> using them have any updates? Recommendations? Regrets?
>
> Use of the CFS limits the options for fuel gauges, right? Which gauge do
> most use with the CFS? Is the EI the best bang for the buck? What about
> Matt's FuelScan?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 wings
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Where is Audio Flight Avionics? |
Has Audio Flight Avionics stopped doing business? If anyone knows how to
contact them please let me know.
Warren Gretz
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
| Subject: | Henry Gorgas metal class |
Just wanted to let any wanna-be metal airplane builders out there that I
attended Henry Gorgas metal workshop class and found it well worth the time
and $. It helped me learn the art of building metal airplanes, and
convinced me that I CAN build this airplane I've been dreaming of for so
many years. He has taken over the classes that Van's used to give, and
have them at his shop in the beautiful countryside SW of Portland and S of
Van's. Give him a call at 503-852-7378. Get your name on the list because
he keeps the classes small so you really get the most. PS. He might
start other classes on more specific areas, ie. firewall forward, canopy
and windshield, instrument panel and wiring. Let him hear from you what
you want. David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Crack Repair |
>Repair: According to AC 43.13-1B I should stop drill the cracks with
>#30 bit, then insert a 1/8" acrylic rod (glued in place with
>"polymerizable cement"). I can do that, but I'd prefer not to make the
>cracks even more noticable by drilling 1/8 holes.
They might be more noticeable if ignored!!!
>I can fabricate little bitty pieces of plexi (using belt sander) to fill the
>holes, since I doubt I'll find .039" fiberglass rods.
They do make small diameter acrylic rods. Maybe not .039 but I have some
in the garage
now that is 1/8.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 - Electric flap mechanism move |
Anyone interested in this modification can see it at:
http://users.ithink.net/coglesby/flapmod.html
Charlie Oglesby
Winter Haven, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 6:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 - Electric flap mechanism move
>
> Pictures of this would be worth a thousand words. Could some one please
> volunteer to post these? Or perhaps just scan them and send them out to
> interested builders?
>
> The most obvious thing that I would want to see is the old position verses
> the new position of the actuator arm. The rest would be easy to figure out
> once this was done.
>
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
>
>
> > I moved the electric flap actuator on my RV6A QB after I saw another
local
> > builder's modification. I actually think it is easier than building the
> > normal center box. The most significant portion of the mod is
rewelding
> > the actuation arm on the weldment WD613. Normally, this arm points
> forward
> > and
> > slightly upward, it needs to be removed and rewelded facing aft and on
the
> > same upward angle just next to the flap actuating arm on the right
> > (passenger) side of the weldment. I also felt that the tube may flex
> > across it's length, so I placed a piece of 4130 tubing inside the tube
and
> > rosette welded the two tubes together each 6 inches. The normal UHMW
> > plastic bushing block is retained in the center of the tube.
> >
> > I made an upper mount that attaches to the backside of the bulkhead F605
> > much
> > like the mount specified in the plans for the center box.
> >
> > And finally, I made an new side cover panel that goes all the way to the
> > upper longeron to cover the whole affair.
> >
> > I really like the space that this has created behind the seatbacks and
> > between the seats. I have some pictures and would be happy to send
them
> to
> > someone that would like to post this mod on their web site.
> >
> > By the way, I talked to the guys at Van's prior to doing this, and they
> felt
> > that this should not be any problem the way I did it. However, I have
not
> > yet flown this as I am just finishing up the canopy and waiting for an
> > engine to arrive.
> >
> > Mel Jordan
> > Tucson, AZ
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel Senders |
what size engine and injection/carburator do you have?
martin wrote:
>
> Dear Larry and others,
> I now have over 75 hours on my RV8 with the capacitance type fuel sensors
> and the Electronics International gauge. The performance of this setup is
> PERFECT. It is ultra accurate and no glitches. It measures down to one
> gallon and when it says that you have 8 gallons left, it is accurate within
> one quart or less. There is no fluctuating indications or other problems
> with the EI gauge. I am very happy with this setup and would recommend it
> to all. I will never ever use a float sensor again.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> flying at last
>
> ----------
> > From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel Senders
> > Date: Saturday, October 16, 1999 10:23 PM
> >
> >
> > I'm considering going with Van's capacitance fuel senders (CFS). There
> > isn't too much feedback in the archives as they are fairly new. Anyone
> > using them have any updates? Recommendations? Regrets?
> >
> > Use of the CFS limits the options for fuel gauges, right? Which gauge do
> > most use with the CFS? Is the EI the best bang for the buck? What about
> > Matt's FuelScan?
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 wings
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna mount RV-6A |
> Is there room in there to have a BNC connector + cable sticking up
>from the belly skin without interfering with the linkage? I can mount the
>antenna off to the side of the channel so the BNC is about an inch off
>center.
I have a Comant marker beacon antenna mounted right in the middle of the
channel in the baggage compartment. Used a 90 degree connector to avoid
interference with the tube. Might be enough to clear with a straight
connector but could be tight -- offsetting 1" one way or the other would do
the trick for sure however.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Places to land in BC |
A question for Canadians on the list (or anyone familiar with SW BC) -- are
there any places to land in the Channel Islands/Strait of Juan De
Fuca/Strait of Georgia that aren't on the map? There are a number of places
I want to visit up there but looking on the map there sure don't seem to be
very many places to land without a seaplane.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hours)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Stainless screws in fuel tank |
I am thinking of putting stainless screws in my fuel tank, instead of
painting the screws. If I knew that I would never take my tank off, I would
paint them. Any long time flyers out there ever had to take the screws out?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
I don't want to start a debate here, but are the Stewart-Warner senders that
inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy with the Stewart-Warner senders? I
am using the EI fuel gauge.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 BUILDING VIDEOS FOR SALE |
I HAVE ALL 12 OF ORNDORF'S RV-6 BUILDING VIDEOS FOR SALE.
EMPENAGE...2...2:28 HRS.
WING.............2...3:17 HRS.
FUSELAGE....3...5:00 HRS.
FINISH............3...5:17 HRS.
SYSTEMS.......2...2:50 HRS.
ALL CAN BE HAD FOR $155.00 INCLUDING SHIPPING. CONTACT ME ON LINE AT
SALNED69(at)CS.COM OR CALL 815-476-7507 OR WRITE ED KOWALSKI
2131 LAKEWOOD DR.
WILMINGTON, IL.
60481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential heating problems with suggested lamps . . . |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Bob, you have very nearly described the landing lights on my RV-6!
>
> At first glance the Duckworks lights that Van's sells appear to be the
> same light you illustrate on your website. However, you stated the 4352
> unit is sealed whereas the Duckworks light can be disassembled. The lens
> and housing is removed and the reflector with bulb is installed into a
> sheet metal bracket that is fitted into the leading edge of the wing. I
> see no reason why the 4352 couldn't be installed in a similar manner.
>
> I installed a Duckworks unit in each wing, installed a Gall's wig wag
> flasher, and use the system just as you described. Since my plane is a
> tail dragger, one light is aimed on the same axis as the plane in level
> flight (for landing) and the other is aimed slightly lower for taxi
> purposes. I have found the system to be effective both for recognition
> and landing/taxi. People often comment on the flasher after I have
> landed at a flyin breakfast and say it is very visible.
>
> The entire system cost was about $190 and as you stated, bulbs are
> available at WalMart for $4.55 each along with the 100 watt bulbs if you
> really want to crank up the power. No doubt the cost could be brought
> way down if a builder fabricated their own mount for the 4352's. More
> info on this installation is available here:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/wing_lg3.html
>
Sam, would you have WalMart's part number for these lamps? I have the same
light in my
-4 and would like to know where I can get replacements.
Carroll Bird RV-4 39 hours and counting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 canopy covers |
OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> My apologies to the list, but I've lost Carroll Byrd's email address.
>
> Carroll,
> Our canopy covers for the RV4 are available in the new lightweight fabric
> Evolution 4 for $135 and in the lined silver polyester for $175.
>
> Becki Orndorff
>
Thanks for the reply Becki. You can get my e-mail address from this post.
I will get in touch when I can pay for one of them. kinda strapped right now.
Good to see you at the fly-in. Tell George I said hi. I will be coming over that
way soon. I'll give you a call before I come.
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
In a message dated 10/19/99 1:16:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com
writes:
<< I don't want to start a debate here, but are the Stewart-Warner senders
that
inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy with the Stewart-Warner senders? >>
I've got them and they are as fine as any good automobile gas gauge.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
So far I have found that the standard S/W senders work superbly with the
EI fuel gauge. When I refuel, the amount of gas that goes in the tanks
is very close to what the gauge said was going to be needed. There are
no problems with level fluctuations other than different readings when
the tail is on the ground and that is going to happen regardless of what
kind of sender is used. I consider the EI gauge to be a valued addition
to my panel.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 35 hours, haven't run out of gas yet.......)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-------------------
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I don't want to start a debate here, but are the Stewart-Warner senders that
> inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy with the Stewart-Warner senders? I
> am using the EI fuel gauge.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6 Project for Sale |
| From: | Michael L Talley <m.talley(at)juno.com> |
RV6 project for sale.
Empenage completed with electric elevator trim and rudder nav light
installed.
Wings completed except for the installation and sealing of the tank rear
baffles. Wings wired for nav, strobe and landing lights, heated pitot
static probe and Nav Aide aileron servo. Phlogiston spars.
Fuselage kit unopened. Includes electric flaps, manual aileron trim and
drilled firewall
All parts alondined. Interior parts and interior of skins epoxy primer
with DP40 except fuel tank interior.
Asking $9000 or make offer. Close to Arlington, WA airport ( AWO ). I can
pickup anyone who flies in.
Mike Talley
425-513-3483 pager
360-435-2130 home
360-435-1690 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Float Senders, fuel gauges |
>Are the Stewart-Warner senders that inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy
>with the Stewart-Warner senders?
No matter the accuracy, fuel gauges should be used only as a refrence.
Timing fuel consumption or using Matts FUELSCAN (no JPI here) are the more
accurate methods of knowing how much fuel you have on board.
When I was calabrating gauges, I noted the indications for level flight and
three point (not an issue for -A folks) and included them in the Flight
Handbook. The SW senders and gauges are a reasonable and inexpensive
combination.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Nearing 2nd Anniversary of First Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Places to land in BC |
>
> A question for Canadians on the list (or anyone familiar with SW BC) --
are
> there any places to land in the Channel Islands/Strait of Juan De
> Fuca/Strait of Georgia that aren't on the map? There are a number of
places
> I want to visit up there but looking on the map there sure don't seem to
be
> very many places to land without a seaplane.
Randall:
I don't know if there are any places that aren't on the map, but some of the
places on the map are definitely worth visiting! A favourite of mine is
Gilles Bay, on Texada Island (CYGB). You can read my report on the Hundred
Dollar Hamburger (Canada) web site
http://www.100dollarhamburger.com/can.html
Another place worth visiting, not in the islands but close by, is Delta
Heritage Air Park (AK3 in the Canadian Flight Supplement). This is a few nm
south east of Vancouver International (CYVR), and right beside Boundary Bay
(CZBB). Every first Sunday of the month, the local RAA chapter (Chapter 85)
puts on a pancake breakfast. When the weather is good, a few interesting
airplanes usually show up. The people are always friendly.
There are several others listed on the 100$ hamburger site that you might
want to check out: Chilliwack, Courtenay Air Park, Langley, Nanaimo, and
Pender Island especially.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 tail
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/tedd/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
Paul,
Who do you know that actually uses a fuel gauge to see how much fuel they
have?
Fuel gauges are merely an indicator that you have fuel. Do you think that you
are flying along, look over at the gauge and say "oh oh, I'd better stop and
get fuel". No, you plan these things out. You know how much fuel you start
with,
know your fuel burn, and calculate how far you can go. Then, by using your
charts,
determine where you will refuel. Sure, Totalizers can help, and are very
accurate.
But they use a completely different method of calculating fuel burn, remaining
fuel, etc. And keep in mind, it too is an electronic piece of equipment, it
can fail.
Fuel is far to critical an issue to be haphazard about.
So to answer your question:
Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
Not trying to "dis" you... just my opinion.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Fuselage
>
>I don't want to start a debate here, but are the Stewart-Warner senders that
>inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy with the Stewart-Warner senders? I
>am using the EI fuel gauge.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | builders bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
I agree completely. I have two fuel gauges in my 6A, mostly for the benefit of
the
FAA. I never use them and certainly would never depend on them. Once in a while
I
glance at them as a curiosity.
What I do use is a $12 dual display timer that I bought at Radio Shack and
velcroed to my panel. One timer is for the left tank and the other for the right,
and I simply hit each start and stop button as I switch tanks, or start up or shut
down the engine. I flight plan for 9 gph. I add 9 gallons of fuel to the right
tank, I add an hour to the timer. Its a simple, accurate, and cheap method of
measuring endurance.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net> |
If anyone would be interested in trading a 3 for a 4, please send a note
direct. I know there would be money involved. My 3 has wing mods done, new
paint, transpoder,com, 0-320 160 h.p. My wife has decided see would like to
ride along every so often. My e address is larryjenison(at)voyager.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless screws in fuel tank |
Paul,
Had to remove a tank for a leaking sender.. You can do
it without disturbing much paint. Put new unpainted screws
back in (cad plated) the tank.. Stainless screws look great
however they have a tendancy to gall in nutplates! If you
use stainless screws in any thing, put a dab of anti seize
on them...
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SW Regional EAA Fly-in |
I've seen this plane at a number of shows Your right it is a Beauitful
plane .
Just goes to show that you dont have to put $ 80,000 into ( like these
award
winners) these planes to have a nice plane.
Some people build planes to fly and have fun while others build just for
show.
To bad they dont give awards to who' s having the most fun. You'd win
Grand Champion Walt .
So. Ca. 6 Pack
"Joker"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Float Senders, fuel gauges |
I asked the Allegro engine monitor guy if stuff works with capacitance
sender. He replied that his equipment only uses the totalizer, and doesn't
need input from a sender. So I'm left wondering why I need a sender at all
if I have a totalizer. The only time it would be off is if there is a leak,
right? So has anyone skipped installing a sender and just gone with a
totalizer? Probably not, but I thought I'd ask....
Larry, RV-8 wings.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >Are the Stewart-Warner senders that inaccurate? Are flyers out
> there happy
> >with the Stewart-Warner senders?
>
> No matter the accuracy, fuel gauges should be used only as a refrence.
> Timing fuel consumption or using Matts FUELSCAN (no JPI here) are the more
> accurate methods of knowing how much fuel you have on board.
>
> When I was calabrating gauges, I noted the indications for level
> flight and
> three point (not an issue for -A folks) and included them in the Flight
> Handbook. The SW senders and gauges are a reasonable and inexpensive
> combination.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Nearing 2nd Anniversary of First Flight
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
Paul: I experienced the fuel indicator situations you was discussing.. My
last RV-6 I started out with a Rochester Gage system. After about 3 years
flying I experienced a stuck Sender, but like every one else I used time as
primary. Well I replaced the Rochester system with S/W senders and
Electronic International Instrument. EI was nice but a little annoying with
the constant flashing of the amber alert lights. And they had the same
error as analog gages above about 15 gallons when the tank is not full but
the sender float is about as high as it can go. My current project I plan
on using Van's Indicators, as they work about as well as the expensive ones.
Me being a Professional Flight Engineer (Retired) I never trust fuel
indicators anyway.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6A - working on elevator trim
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Float Senders
>
> Paul,
>
> Who do you know that actually uses a fuel gauge to see how much fuel they
> have?
> Fuel gauges are merely an indicator that you have fuel. Do you think that
you
> are flying along, look over at the gauge and say "oh oh, I'd better stop
and
> get fuel". No, you plan these things out. You know how much fuel you start
> with,
> know your fuel burn, and calculate how far you can go. Then, by using your
> charts,
> determine where you will refuel. Sure, Totalizers can help, and are very
> accurate.
> But they use a completely different method of calculating fuel burn,
remaining
> fuel, etc. And keep in mind, it too is an electronic piece of equipment,
it
> can fail.
> Fuel is far to critical an issue to be haphazard about.
>
> So to answer your question:
>
> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
>
> Not trying to "dis" you... just my opinion.
>
> Larry Olson
> Cave Creek, AZ
> RV6 - Fuselage
>
>
> >
> >I don't want to start a debate here, but are the Stewart-Warner senders
that
> >inaccurate? Are flyers out there happy with the Stewart-Warner senders?
I
> >am using the EI fuel gauge.
> >
> >Paul Besing
> >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> >http://members.home.net/rv8er
> >Finish Kit
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | New Products at Gretz Aero |
Greetings to the RV List,
I just received a special limited supply of wire lacing string. This
string or tape is used to tie up wires into bundles. It is the most
light weight, and inexpensive product for doing this job. I have used
this type of material extensively and I really like it. It is extremely
fast to tie and use. I think you will like it also. It is self
extinguishing polyester # MIL-T-43435B, Type II, Finish C, Size 3. It is
flat braided so it will not cut into or deform as badly as round string.
The finish of this material makes knots stay tied. I have a VERY LIMITED
supply of this in 500 yd. spools. I will ship it to you at $12 per
spool. Granted, a spool is enough to do many airplanes but you will find
many uses for this stuff as I have.
I also just received newly redesigned electrical connectors for the
electrical connection to the heated pitot tubes, AN5812, PH502-12CR or
AN5814. The advantage of these connectors is they will not break as
easily, and take higher temperatures than the connectors that are
supplied with the pitot tubes. These are $10 each shipping included.
Other products I have available are:
Heated pitot tube, PH502-12CR, 12 volt, $135
Heated pitot tube, AN5814, with static source, 12 volt, $199
Heated pitot tube mounting bracket kits for mounting the pitot tube,
$105
An alternative electric elevator trim kit, $54
A very small GPS antenna for mounting through a skin or on the glare
shield, $75
RV aircraft ToolKeys, now at a reduced price due to a lower price of
production, $6.50
AmeriKing AK-450 ELTs, $194
AmeriKing AK-350 Altitude Encoders, $164
Custom made to length RF cables and connectors, call for price for your
needs
I can now accept VISA and MC for purchases!! I will continue to offer my
low prices to buyers using checks as payment.
If you would like a set of flyes on my products send me your US Postal
mail address OFF of the RV LIST, or call me and leave your address on my
recorder.
Orders can be placed on the phone, by e-mail (include bank card number,
date of card exp., your name as on bank card), or send me a check with
explanaton of what you want to the address below.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
I would like to install Lord mounts instead of Barry mounts on my 0-360-A1A
powered RV-4. Does anyone know how to find the appropriate part number???
Thanks,
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lack of grounding on the SW senders |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Gert,
Drill a hole through the sender housing (inside the mounting screw
ring). Put a machine screw in the hole, head on the tank side of the
sender housing, locknut on the outside. Proseal over the head of the
screw. Use another nut on the screw to attach your ground wire.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (fuselage)
Vienna, VA
>Subject: RV-List: Lack of grounding on the SW senders
>Sent: 10/16/19 4:23 PM
>Received: 10/19/99 8:10 PM
>From: Gert, gert(at)execpc.com
>Reply-To: RV List, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Well fellow rvators, I ran into a strange problem.
>I was just about to install my tank with the sender in the 2nd bay when
>I decided to just one last time check the reading.
>
>To my supprise I measured meg-ohms between the fuelsender output and the
>tank frame.
>When I leak-tested my tank i found some leakage around the screws and
>sealed those with sealant.
>
>Well, now between the sender frame and the sender output I can measure
>the correct ohm reading but the heavy duty mounting plate appears to be
>totally isolated from the tank. I guess the screws were the conduit from
>the sender frame through the platenuts to the fueltank.
>
>Hmm. oh wise men, what to do, just run a bonding wire from the
>fuelsender housing.
>Where to put such a wire, under one of the five mouting screws?? the
>sender housing sits on a rubber gasket which can be torqued only so
>much. which means the eye of the terminal will see only so much contact
>pressure.
>
>Strange indeed, I guess it's good sealand though ;-)
>
>Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
I have the float senders. I "calibrated" them on the initial fill of the
tanks, and discovered that they measure about the first 12 or so gallons.
After that, the tank is full.
I did fly both sides empty (2 flights) in the test period. Was amazed to see
that each time the motor got quiet the needle just completely covered up the
empty mark. Essentially perfect, and lucky, calibration for this critical
point. (That was before I discovered that one float was leaky, and later
sank. Haven't repeated the calibration since then.)
(for information, the motor came back to life within 5 seconds of switching
to the other tank, without use of the booster pump. Must mean that the fuel
pump works well, at least at that particular instant. Emergency procedure
still calls for the booster.)
I have a VM1000, and am astonished at how well it does on total fuel
consumption. Don't tend to use it, except for information.
I do the old fashion fuel calcs (with the FlightStar computer program and a
model constant altitude model developed for my airplane) whenever it might be
critical. Truth is, at this age, the bladder is more critical than the fuel.
Bruce Patton
596S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knotnowjac(at)aol.com |
I got an E mail from AAMR/AirCore this afternoon about a new page John has
put up. It's call pre owned tools. He's got some pretty interesting crimpers
listed for darn good prices.
I don't know if he's ready to announce it yet.
any way it's
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page67.html
I bought one of his Ty guns for $35.00, that I priced last week for $100...to
rich for my blood.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill French" <mfrench(at)mail.datasys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 for Trade |
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry <larryjenison(at)voyager.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-3 for Trade
>
>If anyone would be interested in trading a 3 for a 4, please send a note
>direct. I know there would be money involved. My 3 has wing mods done, new
>paint, transpoder,com, 0-320 160 h.p. My wife has decided see would like to
>ride along every so often. My e address is larryjenison(at)voyager.net
>
>larry how do you send a message to the list??mine keep commin back???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
In a message dated 10/19/99 2:28:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<<
What I do use is a $12 dual display timer that I bought at Radio Shack and
velcroed to my panel. One timer is for the left tank and the other for the
right,
and I simply hit each start and stop button as I switch tanks, or start up
or shut
down the engine. I flight plan for 9 gph. I add 9 gallons of fuel to the
right
tank, I add an hour to the timer. Its a simple, accurate, and cheap method of
measuring endurance.
>>
Sounds like a great system. Another technique I've heard that can be used in
any LEFT/RIGHT tank airplane and using a clock or watch, the kind that still
use hands to tell time. When the minutes hand is going from 12 to 6, ie.
traversing the "right side" of the clock, use the right tank; when going from
6 to 12, the left side, run the left tank. This discussion reminds me of a
fuel starvation incident a few years back involving a pilot and an airplane
he had just purchased. The new owner was prudently advised to never trust
the gauges, they lie. After a fuel starvation induced landing, he was asked
what the fuel gauges said. The answer: empty!
Doug Seward
Seattle area
-4, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless screws in fuel tank |
>I am thinking of putting stainless screws in my fuel tank, instead of
painting the screws. If I knew that I would never take my tank off, I would
paint them. Any long time flyers out there ever had to take the screws out?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit<
Paul, stainless screws are ok if you also paint them. If you plan on leaving
them bare, you may be setting up the possibility of galvanic corrosion
(probably not a concern in AZ, but this may be of interest to others) Because
the stainlesss steel is anodic to the aluminum, the area of stainless becomes
the driving force for the current generated in the stainless/aluminum couple.
Stainless fasteners are frequently used to join aluminum, but in most cases
the aluminum is bare. This is ok because the galvanic current generated by
the small area of stainless steel is very small in comparison to the area of
bare aluminum, so the current is spread out over a wide area. The current
flux, microamps per square centimeter, or whatever, is so low as to be
negligible. When you paint the aluminum, however, you essentially create
microscopic areas of bare aluminum, since no coating is an absolutely perfect
seal on the microscopic level. Now you have a relatively large area of a
stainless steel anode and a very, very small area of aluminum cathode exposed
in the microscopic pinholes. Although the current generated by the stainless
screws is small because of their actual area, the current flux is high in the
pinholes and corrosion can begin. Sounds a little strange, I know, since we
usually think of stainless steel as a problem solver, not so in this case.
Maybe since you live in AZ you can just polish the airplane and keep the
stainless screws. Andy Johnson, wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Two Piece Wheel Pant Instructions |
My manual has the old wheel pant instructions, and the pant mounting bracket
is the new style. Do you have to just figure this out, or is there a method
of assembly?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Color Handheld GPS |
Has anyone seen this yet?
http://www.teletype.com/gps/index.html
Go down to prices and follow the link or use this one:
http://www.teletype.com/gps/order
They list many cables, connecters, nifty powerbars, and handheld GPS
holders. Way down at the bottom is the palm sized unit with all of the
software and carrying case for $600. They also sell a PCMCIA card GPS
receiver with all of their software for $700 that will convert a laptop into
a moving map.
Their software does city streets and addresses as well.
How readable would this be in sunlight?
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
| Subject: | Fw: looking for RV builders in Oregon |
----- Original Message -----
From: Arnold de Brie
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 8:25 PM
Subject: looking for RV builders in Oregon
Hello listers
I am a Dutch RV 8 builder.
Have just finished the empennage and expect the QB kit end of November.
In the second week of November my son and I fly into Seattle and would like
to drive down to Vans for a visit.
Are there any builders along the road who would like to show their project
and share experiences?
Please contact off-list
Arnold de Brie
The Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Piece Wheel Pant Instructions |
>
>My manual has the old wheel pant instructions, and the pant mounting
bracket
>is the new style. Do you have to just figure this out, or is there a
method
>of assembly?
>
>Paul Besing
I recently received the two-piece wheel pant kit. I am replacing my old
style wheel pants. With the kit is a complete set of two-piece installation
instructions. If you don't want to call Vans shoot me an e-mail and I can
send you a copy of my instructions.
The two-piece, by the way, are much easier to install IMHO.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
20 Oct 1999 08:52:58.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Hi All,
In the interest of community service I thought I would make this offer. I have
the copy of Van's Airforce newsletter with the article and drawing about Jim's
spring bias rudder trim here at work. I would be happy to fax it to anyone that
is seriously considering an alternative to fixed or mechanical tabs.
Please respond off the list to:
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Products at Gretz Aero |
For those new to the list, an unsolicited endorsement:
Warren's pitot bracket mount is good stuff for the money, and
Warren's support is first rate. I found him easy to deal with, honest,
and responsive.
Tim Lewis
On 19 Oct 99, at 17:59, Warren Gretz wrote:
>
> Greetings to the RV List,
> I just received a special limited supply of wire lacing string. This
> string or tape is used to tie up wires into bundles. It is the most
> light weight, and inexpensive product for doing this job. I have used this
> type of material extensively and I really like it. It is extremely fast to
> tie and use. I think you will like it also. It is self extinguishing
> polyester # MIL-T-43435B, Type II, Finish C, Size 3. It is flat braided so
> it will not cut into or deform as badly as round string. The finish of
> this material makes knots stay tied. I have a VERY LIMITED supply of this
> in 500 yd. spools. I will ship it to you at $12 per spool. Granted, a
> spool is enough to do many airplanes but you will find many uses for this
> stuff as I have.
>
> I also just received newly redesigned electrical connectors for the
> electrical connection to the heated pitot tubes, AN5812, PH502-12CR or
> AN5814. The advantage of these connectors is they will not break as
> easily, and take higher temperatures than the connectors that are supplied
> with the pitot tubes. These are $10 each shipping included.
>
> Other products I have available are:
> Heated pitot tube, PH502-12CR, 12 volt, $135
> Heated pitot tube, AN5814, with static source, 12 volt, $199
> Heated pitot tube mounting bracket kits for mounting the pitot tube,
> $105
> An alternative electric elevator trim kit, $54
> A very small GPS antenna for mounting through a skin or on the glare
> shield, $75
> RV aircraft ToolKeys, now at a reduced price due to a lower price of
> production, $6.50
> AmeriKing AK-450 ELTs, $194
> AmeriKing AK-350 Altitude Encoders, $164
> Custom made to length RF cables and connectors, call for price for your
> needs
>
> I can now accept VISA and MC for purchases!! I will continue to offer my
> low prices to buyers using checks as payment.
>
> If you would like a set of flyes on my products send me your US Postal
> mail address OFF of the RV LIST, or call me and leave your address on my
> recorder.
>
> Orders can be placed on the phone, by e-mail (include bank card number,
> date of card exp., your name as on bank card), or send me a check with
> explanaton of what you want to the address below.
>
> Warren Gretz
> Gretz Aero
> 3664 East Lake Drive
> Littleton, CO 80121
> 303-770-3811
> gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
>
>
>
>
> --
> --
> Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives List Support
> Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Other Email
> Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other
> --
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stainless screws in fuel tank |
Anytime any screw of anytype goes into any threaded receiver......(not during
assembly/fitup with the many ins & outs of screws....) but during the last ( HA
) securing of the screw I grab a pipe cleaner, dunk in some thick oil and push
in the threaded receiver ( nutplate.......) During annuals & maintenance I do
the same thing....border- line anal retentive but helpful nonetheless...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Spenner" <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br> |
Does anybody knows where I can find the measures to cut the foam to make the
seat cushion?
I been thru a site the other day, but can't remember.
Werner Spenner
Doing the other 90%.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Float Senders, fuel gauges |
I've got a feeling that using the totalizer only, while probably
more accurate than float senders and guages, would not meet the FAA
requirement to have fuel guages on board.
Mike
From: Larry Bowen@Larry on 10/19/99 06:38 PM
To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Float Senders, fuel gauges
I asked the Allegro engine monitor guy if stuff works with
capacitance
sender. He replied that his equipment only uses the totalizer, and
doesn't
need input from a sender. So I'm left wondering why I need a sender
at all
if I have a totalizer. The only time it would be off is if there is
a leak,
right? So has anyone skipped installing a sender and just gone with
a
totalizer? Probably not, but I thought I'd ask....
Larry, RV-8 wings.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >Are the Stewart-Warner senders that inaccurate? Are flyers out
> there happy
> >with the Stewart-Warner senders?
>
> No matter the accuracy, fuel gauges should be used only as a
refrence.
> Timing fuel consumption or using Matts FUELSCAN (no JPI here) are
the more
> accurate methods of knowing how much fuel you have on board.
>
> When I was calabrating gauges, I noted the indications for level
> flight and
> three point (not an issue for -A folks) and included them in the
Flight
> Handbook. The SW senders and gauges are a reasonable and
inexpensive
> combination.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Nearing 2nd Anniversary of First Flight
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
Duh, I deleted this message about someone having used tools for sale.
Message came thru about 10 am Wed. I am interested. David Deffner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two Piece Wheel Pant Instructions |
Larry: Did you notice any increase in speed??? Was wondering if they would do
anything for my 3....Jim Brown,NJ,3 with 160...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
OK I'm now begging!
Can (will)anyone in the south Florida area give me a ride in a RV6? No
wait, Any RV. Pleeeeze
I'll pay for fuel, lunch--need the plane washed?
Boy, I'm Disgusting!
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders, fuel gauges |
Larry, your FAA inspector is going to want to see fuel gauges.
Sam Buchanan
-------------------
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I asked the Allegro engine monitor guy if stuff works with capacitance
> sender. He replied that his equipment only uses the totalizer, and doesn't
> need input from a sender. So I'm left wondering why I need a sender at all
> if I have a totalizer. The only time it would be off is if there is a leak,
> right? So has anyone skipped installing a sender and just gone with a
> totalizer? Probably not, but I thought I'd ask....
>
> Larry, RV-8 wings.
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > >Are the Stewart-Warner senders that inaccurate? Are flyers out
> > there happy
> > >with the Stewart-Warner senders?
> >
> > No matter the accuracy, fuel gauges should be used only as a refrence.
> > Timing fuel consumption or using Matts FUELSCAN (no JPI here) are the more
> > accurate methods of knowing how much fuel you have on board.
> >
> > When I was calabrating gauges, I noted the indications for level
> > flight and
> > three point (not an issue for -A folks) and included them in the Flight
> > Handbook. The SW senders and gauges are a reasonable and inexpensive
> > combination.
> >
> > Michael
> > RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> > Nearing 2nd Anniversary of First Flight
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
Larry Olson wrote:
>
>
> Paul,
>
> Who do you know that actually uses a fuel gauge to see how much fuel they
> have?
I do.
> Fuel gauges are merely an indicator that you have fuel. Do you think that you
> are flying along, look over at the gauge and say "oh oh, I'd better stop and
> get fuel". No, you plan these things out. You know how much fuel you start
> with,
> know your fuel burn, and calculate how far you can go. Then, by using your
> charts,
> determine where you will refuel.
The system you described works great for cross country flights. Now, how
do you calculate fuel burn when you are doing a series of short (Young
Eagles?) flights or lots of touch and goes while in the test flight
phase, possibly before you have established firm fuel burn numbers or
while you are in a 45 minute wait in the taxi line (ever flown out of a
NASCAR race?)? This is where an accurate gauge can be very helpful as an
adjunct to the actual check of fuel quantity you made the last time you
peeked in the tanks.
Sure, Totalizers can help, and are very
> accurate.
> But they use a completely different method of calculating fuel burn, remaining
> fuel, etc. And keep in mind, it too is an electronic piece of equipment, it
> can fail.
> Fuel is far to critical an issue to be haphazard about.
I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
"haphazard" catagory.
>
> So to answer your question:
>
> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
I don't want to sound personal with this discussion, but let's think for
a moment. If an accurate fuel gauge is overkill, then there are several
other items in the cockpit that are also overkill. Since it is very
possible to accurately navigate with a compass and sectional, then the
GPS in our lap is most definitely overkill. Matter of fact, a radio
isn't required in most instances, so the com radio could also be
considered overkill since our first priority is to see and avoid. (And
what about all those loaded panels with every gimmick in the catalogs
installed in a plane that will only be flown day VFR?) If you want to
really extend this line of reasoning, the glider pilots would probably
consider our engines to be overkill! Matter of fact, if you are willing
to make only one short flight, an airplane is overkill.....
Early in my project (and I think even on this list) I stated a similar
opinion that fuel gauges are just for the lazy pilot and are basically
useless since that had been my experience with certificated aircraft.
However, I have learned better. While the primary method of determining
fuel quantity must remain "check the tanks and use a clock", I have
become spoiled to looking at the EI unit and seeing a readout with
gallons remaining. As long as the readout is consistent with the
quantity of fuel the computer in my head has calculated, I trust the
gauge and find it very useful for maintaining a balanced fuel load. The
EI gauge has a neat feature that blinks the indicator lights when the
fuel difference between tanks becomes 1/4 tank, and serves as another
reminder to check the fuel load. I will take all the reminders I can
get!
Each pilot must decide how he/she will handle fuel burn. I decided to
put the bucks in a good gauge to tell me how much is in the tanks
(besides that, I wanted a single gauge for both tanks......oh no, is
this going to start a debate on redundancy?) rather than a totalizer
that will only tell me how much has gone through the engine.
As in all matters, and especially this one, your milage may vary :-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Source for UMHW tape |
Back in November, 1997 SCOTT MCDANIELS recommended the use of UHMW tape in
many parts of the RV. I have not been able to find a source for the tape,
though. A search of the archives turned up only Scott's email posting. Do
any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
Steve Soule
Rv6a on gear, engine bolted on
Still fiddling with the t/u canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
20 Oct 1999 12:24:35.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Since the response to my offer was well, largish, maybe it would be better if we
could get a scanned image attached to one of the RV webpages. Maybe a really
well done webpage, from someone that is flying and has nothing better to do,
maybe someone in ALABAMA, hint, hint could add this. So hold off on the Fax
requests, we'll find a better way.
As long as I'm begging for assistance, might as well add My canopy, oh my canopy
part one and deux. Absolutely a must read before you cut the plexi, or so I'm
told.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Enroute Assistance..... |
Hello To RV'ers in New Jersey area,
I am in the middle of a tour of the USA with my RV-6 which began on Sept 10th
from the Seattle area. I have developed an oil leak which needs to be looked
at and would much rather do that with fellow RV builders than with some FBO
operation.
I am visiting friends at SeaGirt and the RV-6 is tied down outside at the
Allaire airport just north of here. As I write this we are also sitting out
some rainy weather.
Is there anyone in this New Jersey area that might be able to offer some
assistance at an airport nearby where I could pull cowling and pursue my oil
leak. I can fly a short distance if necessary.
Any help would be most appreciated.
We are carrying a portable computer to keep the RV connection. For the New
Jersey contact I can be reached at 732-974-9435, or of course the above
e-mail address.
Thank you,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6 N84N, 177 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
<< Any airplane with lots of dihedral and leading edge tanks will not have
accurate readings with just one sender in the tank... :=))
>>
Accurate, yes. Linear, NO! You just have to know where the calibration
points are, and then ignore the readings as unreliable anyway... as has been
discussed, the gauges are not to be trusted over a good preflight dip-tube
measurement, followed by a timer and known fuel burn rate in flight. Maybe,
just maybe, they'd prove useful if you sprang a leak on the underside, or
forgot to lean, or something off the wall that messed up your fuel
consumption rate.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat cushion |
>From: "Werner Spenner" <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Seat cushion
>Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:56:52 -0200
>
>
>Does anybody knows where I can find the measures to cut the foam to make
>the
>seat cushion?
>I been thru a site the other day, but can't remember.
>
>Werner Spenner
>Doing the other 90%.
Werner,
It can vary greatly depending on which RV you are building, your height, and
your passenger's height. The rear seat bottom cushion in my RV8 with seat
riser pan is 3". The front seat bottom is hard to describe since it has such
an odd shape to fit into the seat pan behind the spar. Since you are making
them yourself, custom fit the cushions to your liking, as long as there are
a few inches between your head (or headset pad) and the canopy. My website
has some pics of my seat cushions and the ones in Van's RV8A.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
tail on, wings on, money all gone.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage6.html
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/copperstate.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sam, float stuff |
Thanks, Sam, but an FYI, Larry is a very good friend of mine (locally) and
we give eachother hell all the time, and it was part serious, and part
making fun of how people on this list like to get on their soapbox and their
holier than thou attitude..you did bring up some very good points, though,
and I am glad we share the same fuel configuration. With the fuel flow
option on my MicroMonitor and the EI guage (with float senders) I don't
think there will be any fuel issues in N197AB!
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Float Senders
>
>
>Larry Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Paul,
>>
>> Who do you know that actually uses a fuel gauge to see how much fuel they
>> have?
>
>I do.
>
>> Fuel gauges are merely an indicator that you have fuel. Do you think that
you
>> are flying along, look over at the gauge and say "oh oh, I'd better stop
and
>> get fuel". No, you plan these things out. You know how much fuel you
start
>> with,
>> know your fuel burn, and calculate how far you can go. Then, by using
your
>> charts,
>> determine where you will refuel.
>
>The system you described works great for cross country flights. Now, how
>do you calculate fuel burn when you are doing a series of short (Young
>Eagles?) flights or lots of touch and goes while in the test flight
>phase, possibly before you have established firm fuel burn numbers or
>while you are in a 45 minute wait in the taxi line (ever flown out of a
>NASCAR race?)? This is where an accurate gauge can be very helpful as an
>adjunct to the actual check of fuel quantity you made the last time you
>peeked in the tanks.
>
> Sure, Totalizers can help, and are very
>> accurate.
>> But they use a completely different method of calculating fuel burn,
remaining
>> fuel, etc. And keep in mind, it too is an electronic piece of equipment,
it
>> can fail.
>> Fuel is far to critical an issue to be haphazard about.
>
>I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
>"haphazard" catagory.
>
>>
>> So to answer your question:
>>
>> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
>
>I don't want to sound personal with this discussion, but let's think for
>a moment. If an accurate fuel gauge is overkill, then there are several
>other items in the cockpit that are also overkill. Since it is very
>possible to accurately navigate with a compass and sectional, then the
>GPS in our lap is most definitely overkill. Matter of fact, a radio
>isn't required in most instances, so the com radio could also be
>considered overkill since our first priority is to see and avoid. (And
>what about all those loaded panels with every gimmick in the catalogs
>installed in a plane that will only be flown day VFR?) If you want to
>really extend this line of reasoning, the glider pilots would probably
>consider our engines to be overkill! Matter of fact, if you are willing
>to make only one short flight, an airplane is overkill.....
>
>Early in my project (and I think even on this list) I stated a similar
>opinion that fuel gauges are just for the lazy pilot and are basically
>useless since that had been my experience with certificated aircraft.
>However, I have learned better. While the primary method of determining
>fuel quantity must remain "check the tanks and use a clock", I have
>become spoiled to looking at the EI unit and seeing a readout with
>gallons remaining. As long as the readout is consistent with the
>quantity of fuel the computer in my head has calculated, I trust the
>gauge and find it very useful for maintaining a balanced fuel load. The
>EI gauge has a neat feature that blinks the indicator lights when the
>fuel difference between tanks becomes 1/4 tank, and serves as another
>reminder to check the fuel load. I will take all the reminders I can
>get!
>
>Each pilot must decide how he/she will handle fuel burn. I decided to
>put the bucks in a good gauge to tell me how much is in the tanks
>(besides that, I wanted a single gauge for both tanks......oh no, is
>this going to start a debate on redundancy?) rather than a totalizer
>that will only tell me how much has gone through the engine.
>
>As in all matters, and especially this one, your milage may vary :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Color Handheld GPS |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I am definately interested in this. I have been thinking for a while that
these CE system PDAs were prime platforms for aviation GPS displays. I would
be surprised if Jeppesen isn't working on applications for these also.
I have a palm pilot and there are people working on moving map applications
for these as well, but not color.
Anyone with experience please post. I just bought a Lowrance 100, but am
still interested in upgrading down the line.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Color Handheld GPS
>Date: Wed, Oct 20, 1999, 1:31 AM
>
>
> Has anyone seen this yet?
>
> http://www.teletype.com/gps/index.html
>
> Go down to prices and follow the link or use this one:
> http://www.teletype.com/gps/order
>
> They list many cables, connecters, nifty powerbars, and handheld GPS
> holders. Way down at the bottom is the palm sized unit with all of the
> software and carrying case for $600. They also sell a PCMCIA card GPS
> receiver with all of their software for $700 that will convert a laptop into
> a moving map.
>
> Their software does city streets and addresses as well.
> How readable would this be in sunlight?
>
> Norman
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Eric:Whats the date on the newsletter?? Jim Brown,NJ,RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Piece Wheel Pant Instructions |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Larry: Did you notice any increase in speed??? Was wondering if they would
>do
>anything for my 3....Jim Brown,NJ,3 with 160...
>
>
I haven't finished the installation yet (2 piece wheel pants). I
certainly intend to check top cruise speed when I am done. The
testimonials I have heard are great.
I can tell you that since I have had my old style wheel pants off I have
been burning 1/2 gallon an hour more at a slightly lower cruising speed.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Float Senders, fuel gauges |
>
> I've got a feeling that using the totalizer only, while probably
>more accurate than float senders and guages, would not meet the FAA
>requirement to have fuel guages on board.
I am not worried about the FAA; I am worried about my rear end. A leak in
the system ahead of the fuel flow sender would be apparent on a float-type
fuel guage but not on your totalizer. Having had my butt saved by plain,
old float-type guages (a fuel cap failed and vented a whole tank overboard
in 20 minutes) I would not count just on the totalizer.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam, float stuff |
oops..that was not supposed to go the list!!! #$#@#%$
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 5:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sam, float stuff
>
>Thanks, Sam, but an FYI, Larry is a very good friend of mine (locally) and
>we give eachother hell all the time, and it was part serious, and part
>making fun of how people on this list like to get on their soapbox and
their
>holier than thou attitude..you did bring up some very good points, though,
>and I am glad we share the same fuel configuration. With the fuel flow
>option on my MicroMonitor and the EI guage (with float senders) I don't
>think there will be any fuel issues in N197AB!
>
>Paul
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 5:19 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Float Senders
>
>
>>
>>
>>Larry Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> Who do you know that actually uses a fuel gauge to see how much fuel
they
>>> have?
>>
>>I do.
>>
>>> Fuel gauges are merely an indicator that you have fuel. Do you think
that
>you
>>> are flying along, look over at the gauge and say "oh oh, I'd better stop
>and
>>> get fuel". No, you plan these things out. You know how much fuel you
>start
>>> with,
>>> know your fuel burn, and calculate how far you can go. Then, by using
>your
>>> charts,
>>> determine where you will refuel.
>>
>>The system you described works great for cross country flights. Now, how
>>do you calculate fuel burn when you are doing a series of short (Young
>>Eagles?) flights or lots of touch and goes while in the test flight
>>phase, possibly before you have established firm fuel burn numbers or
>>while you are in a 45 minute wait in the taxi line (ever flown out of a
>>NASCAR race?)? This is where an accurate gauge can be very helpful as an
>>adjunct to the actual check of fuel quantity you made the last time you
>>peeked in the tanks.
>>
>> Sure, Totalizers can help, and are very
>>> accurate.
>>> But they use a completely different method of calculating fuel burn,
>remaining
>>> fuel, etc. And keep in mind, it too is an electronic piece of equipment,
>it
>>> can fail.
>>> Fuel is far to critical an issue to be haphazard about.
>>
>>I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
>>"haphazard" catagory.
>>
>>>
>>> So to answer your question:
>>>
>>> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
>>
>>I don't want to sound personal with this discussion, but let's think for
>>a moment. If an accurate fuel gauge is overkill, then there are several
>>other items in the cockpit that are also overkill. Since it is very
>>possible to accurately navigate with a compass and sectional, then the
>>GPS in our lap is most definitely overkill. Matter of fact, a radio
>>isn't required in most instances, so the com radio could also be
>>considered overkill since our first priority is to see and avoid. (And
>>what about all those loaded panels with every gimmick in the catalogs
>>installed in a plane that will only be flown day VFR?) If you want to
>>really extend this line of reasoning, the glider pilots would probably
>>consider our engines to be overkill! Matter of fact, if you are willing
>>to make only one short flight, an airplane is overkill.....
>>
>>Early in my project (and I think even on this list) I stated a similar
>>opinion that fuel gauges are just for the lazy pilot and are basically
>>useless since that had been my experience with certificated aircraft.
>>However, I have learned better. While the primary method of determining
>>fuel quantity must remain "check the tanks and use a clock", I have
>>become spoiled to looking at the EI unit and seeing a readout with
>>gallons remaining. As long as the readout is consistent with the
>>quantity of fuel the computer in my head has calculated, I trust the
>>gauge and find it very useful for maintaining a balanced fuel load. The
>>EI gauge has a neat feature that blinks the indicator lights when the
>>fuel difference between tanks becomes 1/4 tank, and serves as another
>>reminder to check the fuel load. I will take all the reminders I can
>>get!
>>
>>Each pilot must decide how he/she will handle fuel burn. I decided to
>>put the bucks in a good gauge to tell me how much is in the tanks
>>(besides that, I wanted a single gauge for both tanks......oh no, is
>>this going to start a debate on redundancy?) rather than a totalizer
>>that will only tell me how much has gone through the engine.
>>
>>As in all matters, and especially this one, your milage may vary :-)
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Question for the engine experts |
I have a hollow O-360 crankshaft which has been declared non-airworthy
because it contains pitting described in Lycoming SB 505B. I have read
the bulletin in its entirety and discussed it with my mechanic, but I
have the following questions which are not really addressed by the
bulletin.
1. Can (should) the pitting be turned out as long as the max interior
diameter of 1.910" is not exceeded? Seems to me that this would end the
problem.
2. If the answer is no, can the crank remain in service as long as no
cracks arise from the pitting? The SB suggests that they can be, for a
maximum of 12 years, if you do fluorescent penetrant inspections every
100 hours.
I know alot of crankshafts are pulled from airplanes at the first sign
of pitting, and there seems to be different opinions as to how deep a
pit can be, etc.
FWIW the bulletin is at
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
Stephen,
McMaster Carr Supply carries it in different widths and thicknesses.
1-630-833-0300
-Glenn Gordon
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Back in November, 1997 SCOTT MCDANIELS recommended the use of UHMW tape in
> many parts of the RV. I have not been able to find a source for the tape,
> though. A search of the archives turned up only Scott's email posting. Do
> any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
>
> Steve Soule
> Rv6a on gear, engine bolted on
> Still fiddling with the t/u canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LIVING with aircraft batteries |
>
>>
>> >How
>> >would you propose using this in the architecture you describe above? Also,
>> >would you have zero battery backup for electric instruments because of the
>> >dual alternators?
>>
>> you betcha! no need to carry lots of lead around if you have
>> two engine driven power sources.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>of course, in the case of engine failure, it would be nice if the flight
>instruments operated long enough to get out of the clouds.....
>
>Charlie
This is pretty far down the list of probabilities . . .
total engine failure (doesn't even windmill) while
IFR in clouds. What is the liklihood of this? Obviously
the probability is not zero but it's down on the same
order of probability as flight controls comming unhooked.
Consider the contemporary suite of electical/vacuum
instruments. If find yourself with a totally stopped
engine, you're still down to battery-only ops. If
all you've got left is a turn coordinator, then I
suppose one could kill everything on the essential
bus except a turn coordiator . . . big battery or
not, it's a pretty sticky wicket.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Enroute Assistance..... |
Ron: My Name is Harvey Sigmon, I live in Dover Delaware, My project is at
33N, (Delaware Airpark) 270 Degree Radial of Smyrna VOR. I was a previous
owner of a RV-6 for six years. I have a hanger at 33N and building a
RV-6AQB. I would be glad to help if you could fly to 33N. We could not get
the whole airplane in the hanger but maybe the nose at least. My phone # is
302-697-1663. I am at the airport every day, as I am retired. I check my
Email often -Good luck.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB- Tail Stuff.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAPR13(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 12:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Enroute Assistance.....
>
> Hello To RV'ers in New Jersey area,
>
> I am in the middle of a tour of the USA with my RV-6 which began on Sept
10th
> from the Seattle area. I have developed an oil leak which needs to be
looked
> at and would much rather do that with fellow RV builders than with some
FBO
> operation.
>
> I am visiting friends at SeaGirt and the RV-6 is tied down outside at the
> Allaire airport just north of here. As I write this we are also sitting
out
> some rainy weather.
>
> Is there anyone in this New Jersey area that might be able to offer some
> assistance at an airport nearby where I could pull cowling and pursue my
oil
> leak. I can fly a short distance if necessary.
>
> Any help would be most appreciated.
>
> We are carrying a portable computer to keep the RV connection. For the
New
> Jersey contact I can be reached at 732-974-9435, or of course the above
> e-mail address.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ron Vandervort, RV-6 N84N, 177 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
>
>Does anybody knows where I can find the measures to cut
>the foam to make the seat cushion?
Werner, you can find that on my site: http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
click on "Information and Resources for RV Builders".
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA 727MF (reserved)
RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl
Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
Steve: I ordered mine from Avery Tools Part #8469 Price $12.00 roll 3" wide
10' long.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Source for UMHW tape
>
> Back in November, 1997 SCOTT MCDANIELS recommended the use of UHMW tape in
> many parts of the RV. I have not been able to find a source for the tape,
> though. A search of the archives turned up only Scott's email posting.
Do
> any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
>
> Steve Soule
> Rv6a on gear, engine bolted on
> Still fiddling with the t/u canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Enroute Assistance..... |
Ron: I sent you a message earlier, but I am not sure it got out. I live in
Dover, De. Would be glad to help. I am located at 33N, Delaware Airpark.
Home phone 302-697-1663, At airport every day.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB-Tail Stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAPR13(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 12:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Enroute Assistance.....
>
> Hello To RV'ers in New Jersey area,
>
> I am in the middle of a tour of the USA with my RV-6 which began on Sept
10th
> from the Seattle area. I have developed an oil leak which needs to be
looked
> at and would much rather do that with fellow RV builders than with some
FBO
> operation.
>
> I am visiting friends at SeaGirt and the RV-6 is tied down outside at the
> Allaire airport just north of here. As I write this we are also sitting
out
> some rainy weather.
>
> Is there anyone in this New Jersey area that might be able to offer some
> assistance at an airport nearby where I could pull cowling and pursue my
oil
> leak. I can fly a short distance if necessary.
>
> Any help would be most appreciated.
>
> We are carrying a portable computer to keep the RV connection. For the
New
> Jersey contact I can be reached at 732-974-9435, or of course the above
> e-mail address.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ron Vandervort, RV-6 N84N, 177 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
On 20 Oct 99, at 11:33, Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Back in November, 1997 SCOTT MCDANIELS recommended the use of UHMW tape in
> many parts of the RV. I have not been able to find a source for the tape,
> though. A search of the archives turned up only Scott's email posting.
> Do any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
I got mine a couple of years ago from U.S. Plastic Corp, 1-800-537-9724.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
> As long as I'm begging for assistance, might as well add My canopy, oh my
> canopy part one and deux. Absolutely a must read before you cut the plexi,
> or so I'm told.
It's already posted on my web page, http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
then click on the "Supplemental Canopy Instructions" link.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hi Steve, Vans also sells the UMHW tape.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
Try a plastics place like Cadillac or Cope Plastics... Look in the Yellow
pages Under plastic fabrication. Both companies are nation wide.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Source for UMHW tape
>
>Back in November, 1997 SCOTT MCDANIELS recommended the use of UHMW tape in
>many parts of the RV. I have not been able to find a source for the tape,
>though. A search of the archives turned up only Scott's email posting. Do
>any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
>
>Steve Soule
>Rv6a on gear, engine bolted on
>Still fiddling with the t/u canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enroute Assistance..... |
>
>Hello To RV'ers in New Jersey area,
>
>I am in the middle of a tour of the USA with my RV-6 which began on Sept 10th
>from the Seattle area. I have developed an oil leak which needs to be looked
>at and would much rather do that with fellow RV builders than with some FBO
Ron,
Try to reach Gary Corde at the e-mail address below. He has an RV-6 at
Alexandria A/P.
RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Good Luck
Louis Willig
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Products at Gretz Aero |
Warren - why don't you perform a needed service and spool this off in
amounts smaller
than those needed by Boeing? (Or, do they use any of this old timey stuff?)
An RV must need about ten yards max so do we throw out the remaining nearly
full roll?
hal
>The finish of this material makes knots stay tied. I have a VERY LIMITED
>supply of this in 500 yd. spools. I will ship it to you at $12 per
>spool.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Hi Eric,
How do your socks taste? Have you changed jobs again? I noticed your new work
email address last month. I have one of your RVator issues, 5 more of your clecos
(just found them when I pulled the top skins off my
wings) and those #41 6" drills I ordered for you.
Charlie Kuss
"Hi All,
>
> In the interest of community service I thought I would make this offer. I have
> the copy of Van's Airforce newsletter with the article and drawing about Jim's
> spring bias rudder trim here at work. I would be happy to fax it to anyone that
> is seriously considering an alternative to fixed or mechanical tabs.
>
> Please respond off the list to:
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
In a message dated 10/20/99 11:11:45, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< Do
any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
>>
U S Plastics. 1-800-537-9724
or http://www.usplastic.com
part no 46242
.75 inch tape costs $10.71 per roll .. Enough for an RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Forget Eric,
My socks taste pretty awful right now. That was obviously supposed to be sent off
list! :-(
Charlie
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Hi Eric,
> How do your socks taste? Have you changed jobs again? I noticed your new work
email address last month. I have one of your RVator issues, 5 more of your clecos
(just found them when I pulled the top skins off my
> wings) and those #41 6" drills I ordered for you.
> Charlie Kuss
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Hi Eric,
How do your socks taste? Have you changed jobs again? I noticed your new work
email address last month. I have one of your RVator issues, 5 more of your clecos
(just found them when I pulled the top skins off my
wings) and those #41 6" drills I ordered for you.
Charlie Kuss
"Hi All,
>
> In the interest of community service I thought I would make this offer. I have
> the copy of Van's Airforce newsletter with the article and drawing about Jim's
> spring bias rudder trim here at work. I would be happy to fax it to anyone that
> is seriously considering an alternative to fixed or mechanical tabs.
>
> Please respond off the list to:
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Hi Eric,
How do your socks taste? Have you changed jobs again? I noticed your new work
email address last month. I have one of your RVator issues, 5 more of your clecos
(just found them when I pulled the top skins off my
wings) and those #41 6" drills I ordered for you.
Charlie Kuss
"Hi All,
>
> In the interest of community service I thought I would make this offer. I have
> the copy of Van's Airforce newsletter with the article and drawing about Jim's
> spring bias rudder X-Mozilla-Status: 0009ould be happy to fax it to anyone that
> is seriously considering an alternative to fixed or mechanical tabs.
>
> Please respond off the list to:
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Forget Eric,
My socks taste pretty awful right now. That was obviously supposed to be sent off
list! :-(
Charlie
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Hi Eric,
> How do your socks taste? Have you changed jobs again? I noticed your new work
email address last month. I have one of your RVator issues, 5 more of your clecos
(just found them when I pulled the top skins off my
> wings) and those #41 6" drills I ordered for you.
> Charlie Kuss
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Color Handheld GPS |
The newest in Garmin's line is the "295" . . . which is color. They had
this at Osh . . . Airventure and it was very bright, very readible. Their
website will give you the resolution, but it is higher than most of the
units I've seen (including their grayscale "195"). Sporty's now carries
this (not an endorsement, just a fact). I can't speak for Palm Pilot GPS .
. . but I can tell you this new Garmin really looks nice. Pricey, but nice.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Handheld GPS
>
>I am definately interested in this. I have been thinking for a while that
>these CE system PDAs were prime platforms for aviation GPS displays. I
would
>be surprised if Jeppesen isn't working on applications for these also.
>
>I have a palm pilot and there are people working on moving map applications
>for these as well, but not color.
>
>Anyone with experience please post. I just bought a Lowrance 100, but am
>still interested in upgrading down the line.
>
>
>--
>Shelby Smith
>shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
>RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
>N95EB - reserved
>
>----------
>>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>>To:
>>Subject: RV-List: Color Handheld GPS
>>Date: Wed, Oct 20, 1999, 1:31 AM
>>
>
>>
>> Has anyone seen this yet?
>>
>> http://www.teletype.com/gps/index.html
>>
>> Go down to prices and follow the link or use this one:
>> http://www.teletype.com/gps/order
>>
>> They list many cables, connecters, nifty powerbars, and handheld GPS
>> holders. Way down at the bottom is the palm sized unit with all of the
>> software and carrying case for $600. They also sell a PCMCIA card GPS
>> receiver with all of their software for $700 that will convert a laptop
into
>> a moving map.
>>
>> Their software does city streets and addresses as well.
>> How readable would this be in sunlight?
>>
>> Norman
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Tailwheel |
Just a followup on the 6" Andair tailwheel which went flat earlier this
month on my RV6.
I was able to buy a replacement innertube from a local medical supply shop.
It is size 6x1-1/4 with a 45 degree angle on the valve stem. It is made
in China by Chen Shin (as was the original from Andair) and cost $11 when I
picked it up this afternoon.
I also received the following reply on an internet search but did not order
since I found it locally. I expect it is the same item but have not seen
it:
"Hello,
we have the tube ( 6"-1-1/4")which you are looking for in stock which has
our
part# on it of TR5050X-01. The cost of it is $9.12 plus $6.25 UPS Shipping
charge.
To place your order please call 1-888-858-7278 and if no one is in the
office
please leave your number and we will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you,
www.wheelchairparts.com
div of Maintenance Specialties"
Keith Williams
Moline IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Products at Gretz Aero |
I already have two builders here lined up for the rest of my 500 yard
roll..just pass it on to someone else..this stuff works really well, stays
tight, and won't crack after heat, cold, and age, I.E. Zip ties.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 1999 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Products at Gretz Aero
>
>
>Warren - why don't you perform a needed service and spool this off in
>amounts smaller
>than those needed by Boeing? (Or, do they use any of this old timey
stuff?)
>
>An RV must need about ten yards max so do we throw out the remaining nearly
>full roll?
>
>hal
>>The finish of this material makes knots stay tied. I have a VERY LIMITED
>>supply of this in 500 yd. spools. I will ship it to you at $12 per
>>spool.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | New Products at Gretz Aero |
>
>Warren - why don't you perform a needed service and
>spool this off in amounts smallerthan those needed by
> Boeing? (Or, do they use any of this old timey stuff?)
Hal, I bought a roll from Warren, and will be selling smaller lots to people
around our area (since it's almost not worth the postage for smaller
amounts).
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com> |
Listers
Finally got my web page up and running.
http://www.vcn.com/~charliet
Prelim numbers: 1500 fpm and 170 mph without pants and fairings. About 8
gph. A little left wing heavy, cured after about eight ailerons squeezes.
Needed a small rudder trim tab. Twenty hours and still have the grin. Keep
building!
Charlie Tyrrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com> |
Listers
Finally have my web page up-
http://www.vcn.com/~charliet
1500 fpm and 170 mph- no pants or fairings. 8 Gph at 2350 and 23.5. Slight
left wing heavy- fixed with the squeeze. Small rudder trim tab. 20 hours
and still grinning!
Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Tailwheel |
Keith,
Thank you for your update. I've been following this thread with interest. I'd
like to use a pneumatic tail wheel. I'd like to comment that in a past life, I
ran a motorcycle parts & repair shop. My opinion is that Chen Shin products are
of not very good quality. They manufacture tires and tubes for motorcycles. For
a short while, I carried their inner tubes. I soon dropped them as the number of
failures and problems rose. It just wasn't worth the hassle.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Just a follow-up on the 6" Andair tailwheel which went flat earlier this
> month on my RV6.
>
> I was able to buy a replacement innertube from a local medical supply shop.
> It is size 6x1-1/4 with a 45 degree angle on the valve stem. It is made
> in China by Chen Shin (as was the original from Andair) and cost $11 when I
> picked it up this afternoon.
>
> I also received the following reply on an internet search but did not order
> since I found it locally. I expect it is the same item but have not seen
> it:
>
> "Hello,
> we have the tube ( 6"-1-1/4")which you are looking for in stock which has
> our
> part# on it of TR5050X-01. The cost of it is $9.12 plus $6.25 UPS Shipping
> charge.
> To place your order please call 1-888-858-7278 and if no one is in the
> office
> please leave your number and we will get back to you as soon as possible.
> Thank you,
> www.wheelchairparts.com
> div of Maintenance Specialties"
>
> Keith Williams
> Moline IL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/19/99 8:51:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< I would like to install Lord mounts instead of Barry mounts on my 0-360-A1A
powered RV-4. Does anyone know how to find the appropriate part number??? >>
Just out of curiosity, why? The only number I have for a division of Lord
Corporation is 800-458-0456. Let me know if you find the right info for the
Yeller Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Enroute Assistance..... |
Hello Harvey,
I did get your message, Thank you. By noon tomorrow I should know if I will
want to stop by. Can you be reached if you are at the hangar, and what is
location of hangar if I flew in.
I may be able to work with a local FBO in AM if I am lucky.
Thanks again,
Ron Vandervort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane J. Achenbach" <vicki(at)ctaz.com> |
Greetings All: I'm in need of a completed (all the numbers in the
slots) RV6A weight and balance sheet. Anyone that might have a scanner
and the time to e-mail a copy to me, it would be appreciated. (e-mail
vicki(at)ctaz.com) Thanks in advance Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Enroute Assistance..... |
Ron: The phone number at Delaware Airpark is 302-674-2666, the FBO will get
me if you call I will be at the airport if you need help. My hanger is
parallel to the runway, the hanger door will be open. Good luck.
Harvey
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAPR13(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Enroute Assistance.....
>
> Hello Harvey,
>
> I did get your message, Thank you. By noon tomorrow I should know if I
will
> want to stop by. Can you be reached if you are at the hangar, and what is
> location of hangar if I flew in.
>
> I may be able to work with a local FBO in AM if I am lucky.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Ron Vandervort
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Silverstein, Chuck" <chuck.silverstein(at)lmco.com> |
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 12:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A
Greetings All: I'm in need of a completed (all the numbers in the
slots) RV6A weight and balance sheet. Anyone that might have a scanner
and the time to e-mail a copy to me, it would be appreciated. (e-mail
vicki(at)ctaz.com) Thanks in advance Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
>
>I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
>"haphazard" catagory.
>
Sam,
For me it is more of a trust issue.
If you intend on trusting your fuel gauge, then I'm glad you have a
good one. And I think EI is a good one. Because I don't trust them,
EI is no more valuable to me than a cheapie.
I apologize if it was not clear, but that was the point that I was
trying to make.
I guess my milage varied... ;)
Larry Olson
>>
>> So to answer your question:
>>
>> Your SW senders are fine. And your EI gauge is very nice, but over kill.
>
>I don't want to sound personal with this discussion, but let's think for
>a moment. If an accurate fuel gauge is overkill, then there are several
>other items in the cockpit that are also overkill. Since it is very
>possible to accurately navigate with a compass and sectional, then the
>GPS in our lap is most definitely overkill. Matter of fact, a radio
>isn't required in most instances, so the com radio could also be
>considered overkill since our first priority is to see and avoid. (And
>what about all those loaded panels with every gimmick in the catalogs
>installed in a plane that will only be flown day VFR?) If you want to
>really extend this line of reasoning, the glider pilots would probably
>consider our engines to be overkill! Matter of fact, if you are willing
>to make only one short flight, an airplane is overkill.....
>
>Early in my project (and I think even on this list) I stated a similar
>opinion that fuel gauges are just for the lazy pilot and are basically
>useless since that had been my experience with certificated aircraft.
>However, I have learned better. While the primary method of determining
>fuel quantity must remain "check the tanks and use a clock", I have
>become spoiled to looking at the EI unit and seeing a readout with
>gallons remaining. As long as the readout is consistent with the
>quantity of fuel the computer in my head has calculated, I trust the
>gauge and find it very useful for maintaining a balanced fuel load. The
>EI gauge has a neat feature that blinks the indicator lights when the
>fuel difference between tanks becomes 1/4 tank, and serves as another
>reminder to check the fuel load. I will take all the reminders I can
>get!
>
>Each pilot must decide how he/she will handle fuel burn. I decided to
>put the bucks in a good gauge to tell me how much is in the tanks
>(besides that, I wanted a single gauge for both tanks......oh no, is
>this going to start a debate on redundancy?) rather than a totalizer
>that will only tell me how much has gone through the engine.
>
>As in all matters, and especially this one, your milage may vary :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | was Jim Cone's Rudder Trim S/B canopy posting |
<<
It's already posted on my web page, http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
then click on the "Supplemental Canopy Instructions" link.
>>
Yes it's already posted - the bad news is printing is tricky - here's
how I did it:
Save the images to your desktop as JPG files.
Use Imaging(Start,Programs,Accessories...) to reopen.
Then you can print after selecting print,options, fit to page.
Tim, THANKS a LOT for what you've done...hope I've helped...Now how
'bout the rudder trim...anyone?
Ralph Capen
RV6A Dallas N822AR
HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N191XC web page |
Charlie,
I see two small vents under the windscreen - defrosters? A Wyoming guy
probably has a good heat and cool setup so could you tell us about it?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Workshop heaters |
Convection propane heater, the type that has a honeycombed ceramac matrix that
glows orange when fired up..is the type I am using. Cost was 75$ with a few adel
clamps & 5 feet of copper line for the tank connection. I run a 16" dia. fan
about table height 8 feet away to run a circle air current ariund the 3 car
garage/hanger. works great, cost is great.......if I am working in the heated
space for any length of time I raise the garage door 3...6...or 9 inches to
vary temp. & air quality. Simple installation, but mount hi and away from
flamables & I never leave the heat on unattended.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DKugler618(at)aol.com |
Anyone seen a lens/reflector combination that is the same size as a standard
aircraft landing lamp (4309, 4313, etc...) that will accept a standard,
off-the-shelf, and inexpensive H3 quartz halogen bulb? I've found smaller
diameter ones, but was looking to get something that would fit the original
mounting hole & hardware found in many production aircraft as well as the RMD
tip lights.
-Don
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
The reason for going with Lord mounts is that several of our local RV pilots
have found significantly reduced vibration levels using the Lord mounts vs.
Barry. I can't speak from personal experience so I am only going on what
others have told me. They are a more expensive (about $20 more each).
Doug
>
> << I would like to install Lord mounts instead of Barry mounts on my
0-360-A1A
> powered RV-4. Does anyone know how to find the appropriate part
number??? >>
>
> Just out of curiosity, why? The only number I have for a division of Lord
> Corporation is 800-458-0456. Let me know if you find the right info for
the
> Yeller Pages.
>
> -GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for UMHW tape |
>Do
>> any of you know where I can get some UMHW tape?
>>
VAN'S HAS IT
Actually I don't know if it's technically "UHMW" -- I think they call it
teflon tape. Which is good because it's heat resistant and can be used in
the engine compartment. It's the stuff they sell for the flaps now. I've
used it all over my plane, and keep finding more places to put it due to one
thing or another that's chafing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lemen, Ted Ce" <ted.ce.lemen(at)lmco.com> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lemen, Ted Ce
> Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: 'RV Chat'
> Subject: Wing skins
>
> I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing
> skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to use
> only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt joint
> using two rows of rivets.It might require some thought and planning in the
> fuel tank area.
> Ted Lemen, Denver CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
On Thu, 21 Oct 1999, Larry Olson wrote:
>
> >
> >I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
> >"haphazard" catagory.
> >
>
> Sam,
>
> For me it is more of a trust issue.
>
> If you intend on trusting your fuel gauge, then I'm glad you have a
> good one. And I think EI is a good one. Because I don't trust them,
> EI is no more valuable to me than a cheapie.
The fuel guage, cheapie or not, is a cross check for sanity. As long as
the fuel guage agrees with what you believe to be true, all is well. In
that case you can believe what the totalizer tells you. OTOH, if the
fuel guages start tellting you something different, it is time to stop
and check.
I have had two occasions where the fuel guage may have saved me. One
where the fuel cap vented all the fuel overboard. In that case the fuel
guage indicated a usage much faster than the totalizer indicated. In the
second case the vent plugged and the fuel cell collapsed causing the fuel
indication to be much greater than I expected (the cell wrinkled as it
collapsed causing the guage to increase rather than decrease). The key
here is that the good old float-type fuel guage identified a problem that
would not have been identified any other way. For that reason I believe
that the float-type or capacitive (tank level guages) guage is a must.
Anything else is just an optimization.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Built in intercomms |
Listers:
Has anyone had any practical experience with the built-in intercoms
installed in IIMorrow GPS/Comm units such as the GX-65? I have heard they
are limited in their usefulness.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
I think I have a problem . I have the S-type and the engine is a IO320B1A modified
with a sump for the straight down intake to the injector. The finish-kit arrived
with the wrong FAB-320 for the carburator so I have send it back to Vans
for exchange. But is there also the need of changing the scoop?
Leif Stener RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
If it's 15/16th in from the edge just put a rivet in it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N191XC web page |
Charlie
Good job. I am curious as to what speed you got 1500 FPM and what was the
empty weight.
Thanks
Bob Busick
>1500 fpm and 170 mph- no pants or fairings. 8 Gph at 2350 and 23.5. Slight
>left wing heavy- fixed with the squeeze. Small rudder trim tab. 20 hours
>and still grinning!
>
>Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N191XC web page |
Charlie
Good job. I am curious as to what speed you got 1500 FPM and what was the
empty weight.
Thanks
Bob Busick
>1500 fpm and 170 mph- no pants or fairings. 8 Gph at 2350 and 23.5. Slight
>left wing heavy- fixed with the squeeze. Small rudder trim tab. 20 hours
>and still grinning!
>
>Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Wing skins |
---Subject: RV-List: FW: Wing skins
>>
>> I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing
>> skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to
use
>> only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt joint
>> using two rows of rivets.It might require some thought and planning in
the
>> fuel tank area.
>> Ted Lemen, Denver CO
Ted -
I think that if you ever need to change the leading edge skin you will
be very gratefull for the second row of rivets to hold the main skins in
place while you work. Don't ask how I found out - BEFORE I have even flown
my aircraft.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
On Thu, 21 Oct 1999, Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone had any practical experience with the built-in intercoms
> installed in IIMorrow GPS/Comm units such as the GX-65? I have heard they
> are limited in their usefulness.
I set one up for someone who had installed one in a Christen Eagle. It
worked just fine.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Listers,
Following the thread for intercoms, we have a very nice one that we sell. NAT
manufactures an intercom called the Odyssey. The features of this intercom
are as follows:
Individual microphone circuits/digitract
Wind, engine, and other noises are significantly reduced with their patented
individual squelch circuitry, enabling only the active microphone. Digitract
"autotracking" allows the squelch setting to be constant in changing cockpit
noise.
Stereo Music Input
The odyssey supports various stereo music input such as tape or CD players,
line level or speaker outputs.
Odyssey Stereo ICS Series
Many intercoms provide music muting, but the Odyssey allows the pilot to
control the level of muting to suit the situation. The pilot can choose from
a range of full muting during critical communications to none at all for
inflight music, or anywhere in between.
AVR Priority
Automatic Volume Reduction system. The pilot can select at the panel which
communication source is priority, ATC or intercom. This feature places the
less critical source at a partially muted level, maintaining the ability to
continuously monitor it.
Stuck Microphone Alert
If the transmitter button is pressed for more than 30 seconds, an audible
warning is played in the pilot and co-pilots ear.
Autmatic/Manual Failsafe
In the event that failure occurs in the power source, the failsafe mode
activates automatically, routing the pilots headsets directly to the audio
panel or radio source. If a partial failure occurs within the intercom, it
can be manually switched to the failsafe mode by turning the system off.
Team Rocket's price: $369
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | RV4 flat plate drag area |
Does anyone have a number for the effective flat plate area for the RV-4?
An article or ??? that may have produced such a number? Its a matter of
curiosity for someone Ive been having a bench flying session with.
Thanks in advance,
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy(still)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Torque Specs/engine mounts |
Is there a torque spec for the Barry mount? Orndorff just tightens them
down until they are compressed.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Wing skins |
"Lemen, Ted Ce" wrote:
> I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing
> skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to use
> only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt joint
> using two rows of rivets.It might require some thought and planning in the
> fuel tank area.
I suppose you *could* do it, but...
1. The kit-supplied main and/or LE skins aren't not wide enough to
overlap. You could throw them away and buy some wider sheet to make new
(non-prepunched) skins. Or you could reduce the chord of the wing by
1/2" or so.
2. You might need/want to modify the ribs/spar, since otherwise the wing
would be .064" (.032" top and bottom) thicker at the overlap. I don't
know what difference that makes to the airfoil.
In either case, looks like you're becoming aircraft designer.
Seems like a lot of design work to save one row of rivets!
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: was Jim Cone's Rudder Trim S/B canopy posting |
"Ralph E.Capen" wrote:
> Tim, THANKS a LOT for what you've done...hope I've helped...Now how
> 'bout the rudder trim...anyone?
Done!
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/photos/rtrim.jpg> or
<http://kai.ee.cit.ac.nz/frankv/photos/rtrim.jpg>
Note that the file is about 200KB in size.
Hope this is OK with Jim Cone??? You there, Jim?
Thanks to Eric Hanson who emailed it to me.
Incidentally, for those who don't know, the articles mentioned were
written by Jim Cone for the Van's Air Force Tri-State newsletter, now
edited by
Kevin Lowery,
1032 Picardy Lane,
St. Charles,
MO 63301.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Size of Vacuum Pump |
Hi,
I am trying to plan ahead a little bit here under the cowl. Can someone
please e-mail me the following dimensions for a Rapco/Airborne Vacuum
pump?
1. Max O.D.
2. Length from mounting size of endine mounting plate to end of unit.
3. Any other dimensions that might be useful for planning purposes.
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Workshop heaters |
One thing to consider when using these types of heaters is the condensation
that will form on your tools.
I used to live in Minnesota and used both types of heaters and they worked
great except for the condensation. I finally fixed this problem by placing a
waterbed heater under my Craftsman tool cabinet. The heater had a thermostat
so I could regulate the tool cabinet temp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
In a message dated 10/21/99 11:12:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
DKugler618(at)aol.com writes:
<<
Anyone seen a lens/reflector combination that is the same size as a standard
aircraft landing lamp (4309, 4313, etc...) that will accept a standard,
off-the-shelf, and inexpensive H3 quartz halogen bulb? I've found smaller
diameter ones, but was looking to get something that would fit the original
mounting hole & hardware found in many production aircraft as well as the
RMD
tip lights.
-Don
RV8
Have you checked your local motorcycle shop? They have all size's and
shapes.
Mike Rawls (waiting on wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
-Subject: Re: RV-List: Float Senders
>> >I fail to see where having a good fuel gauge puts somebody in the
>> >"haphazard" catagory.
>The fuel guage, cheapie or not, is a cross check for sanity. As long as
>the fuel guage agrees with what you believe to be true, all is well. In
>that case you can believe what the totalizer tells you. OTOH, if the
>fuel guages start tellting you something different, it is time to stop
>and check.
>Brian Lloyd
>brian(at)lloyd.com
>+1.530.676.6513
Brian: I'm with you on this one. All the handwringing about fuel gauges
misses the point. Whether you honor the gauge system with your undying
trust or not, it is still useful. Each time you fill your tanks you do a
mental calibration, not to identify the last pint of fuel, but to eyeball
check the system. The float/gauge system has its weak points but then, why
trust a complex system that depends on a little whirlygig to tell the
computer how much fuel has passed through on its way to the engine? A
little background:
I use a dual meter Westach gauge with Stewart Warner senders. I had to buy
3 senders to get 2 good ones. I also found that the portion of the
electrical circuit that is the sender itself was rather indifferent in
reliability. Jumper wires soldered to the arm and case cured that. The
arms were trimmed and adjusted so that when the float touched the bottom of
the tank the gauges indicated "empty" and when they were at the top of the
tank they read "full". In over 6 years of flying they have not failed to
give proper indication of the fuel levels in the tanks. When they say
"empty" the engine will quit. As others have said, they are not linear but
that is OK. Will they always be as they are now? I doubt it, but with
regard to that, see the above paragraph.
Will I put a flowmeter/totalizer in my next airplane? I don't yet know for
sure but I doubt it. It costs a lot of money for something that mostly
satisfies my curiosity.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 flat plate drag area |
>
>Does anyone have a number for the effective flat plate area for the RV-4?
>An article or ??? that may have produced such a number? Its a matter of
>curiosity for someone Ive been having a bench flying session with.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 canopy(still)
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
Mike: In Appendix L of the book A Practical Guide to Airplane
Performance and Design, author Donald Crawford gives the drag area
(equivalent flat plate area) for the RV-4 as 2.7 square feet. I cannot
defend this number but it is calculated from Van's early published
performance figures which gave a 202mph top speed on 150hp and apparently
used a prop efficiency of 80%. He does give several ways to use (or derive)
drag area from performance testing. What we don't know is the actual
horsepower Van was using, in part because we don't know whether he achieved
wide open throttle at 2700rpm. There are a whole bunch of other
uncertainties to contend with as well but it is the only place I have seen
such a number offered.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kenneth Lamar" <klwski1(at)pouch.com> |
I just purchased a King com/nav radio KX170B (at a very good price and
yellow tagged) it also has a KI-201C indicator, my problem is I need the
tray and connector for it, also I would like to get all the mannuals for the
com/nav particularly the instalation mannual. If any one on the list can
help me it would be apreciated. I'm waiting for the delivery of my RV-9 kit
and in the mean time I'm putting the panel toghether I have to do somthing
or I'll go crazy!:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Listers,
I have a DPS Fuel Watch system with fuel flow transducer for sale. I pulled
the unit out of a Velocity Aircraft that I salvaged.
It is a digital system somewhat like Matt's Fuel Scan. I have limited
documentation on it (wiring diagram only).
I have hooked it up to the sensor and everthing appears to work. This unit
was a popular option for the Velocity , but I believe the DPS is out of
business now.
If anyone is interested please contact me offline.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for the engine experts |
Keep in mind that if a AD required compliance with the SB and you still have
the data plate on your engine you must comply with the AD. Experimental
status does not exempt compliance with certified engines, props and other
accessories. Any mod or non compliance with removal will require a field
approval and you will not get one. RV4 flying. A&P IA, FAA safety counselor.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 5:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Question for the engine experts
>
>I have a hollow O-360 crankshaft which has been declared non-airworthy
>because it contains pitting described in Lycoming SB 505B. I have read
>the bulletin in its entirety and discussed it with my mechanic, but I
>have the following questions which are not really addressed by the
>bulletin.
>
>1. Can (should) the pitting be turned out as long as the max interior
>diameter of 1.910" is not exceeded? Seems to me that this would end the
>problem.
>2. If the answer is no, can the crank remain in service as long as no
>cracks arise from the pitting? The SB suggests that they can be, for a
>maximum of 12 years, if you do fluorescent penetrant inspections every
>100 hours.
>
>I know alot of crankshafts are pulled from airplanes at the first sign
>of pitting, and there seems to be different opinions as to how deep a
>pit can be, etc.
>
>FWIW the bulletin is at
>http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/sb505.html
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A finish
>Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
On Thu, 21 Oct 1999, Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
> >The fuel guage, cheapie or not, is a cross check for sanity. As long as
> >the fuel guage agrees with what you believe to be true, all is well. In
>
> Brian: I'm with you on this one. All the handwringing about fuel gauges
> misses the point. Whether you honor the gauge system with your undying
> trust or not, it is still useful. Each time you fill your tanks you do a
> mental calibration, not to identify the last pint of fuel, but to eyeball
> check the system. The float/gauge system has its weak points but then, why
> trust a complex system that depends on a little whirlygig to tell the
> computer how much fuel has passed through on its way to the engine? A
Just for clarity, I want to go on record as being in favor of both the
lowly float-type fuel guage and the fuel flow/totalizer. I really like
knowing how much fuel I am really using and whether I am going to be
stretching things. Only the totalizer gives me that accuracy. OTOH, the
fuel guage gives me a good cross check as to how much fuel is actually in
the tank. Please put me on the fence with feet in both camps.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 flat plate drag area |
In a message dated 10/21/99 3:49:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< Does anyone have a number for the effective flat plate area for the RV-4?
An article or ??? that may have produced such a number? Its a matter of
curiosity for someone Ive been having a bench flying session with. >>
FWIW, in the RV6A CAFE article presented in the 09/93 Sport Aviation, they
listed the flat plate area as 2.32 ft
2.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Specs/engine mounts |
In a message dated 10/21/99 4:15:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com
writes:
<< Is there a torque spec for the Barry mount? Orndorff just tightens them
down until they are compressed. >>
They are designed to seat against the center spacer. I torqued per bolt
diameter. The spacer length is supposed to establish the proper preload on
the mounts.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Specs/engine mounts |
So what is the torque spec, and how does one compute it by the diameter of
the bolt?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 5:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque Specs/engine mounts
>
>In a message dated 10/21/99 4:15:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8er(at)home.com
>writes:
>
><< Is there a torque spec for the Barry mount? Orndorff just tightens them
> down until they are compressed. >>
>
>They are designed to seat against the center spacer. I torqued per bolt
>diameter. The spacer length is supposed to establish the proper preload on
>the mounts.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
>
> > Has anyone had any practical experience with the built-in intercoms
> > installed in IIMorrow GPS/Comm units such as the GX-65? I have heard
they
> > are limited in their usefulness.
>
There is a good review of this feature in the AV-web under reviews.
Essentially, the problem is 1) lack of boom isolate feature, ie, if the
button is pushed, both mikes are live. This is fixed with a $30 boom
isolator. 2) you can hear either you co-pilot, or the STANDBY freq. but not
both at the same time. 3) No allowance for any aux inputs. Squelch seems
to work fine, and the rest of the unit seems to be excellent.
Dave Leonard
6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 4:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Float Senders
>
>On Thu, 21 Oct 1999, Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
>
>> >The fuel guage, cheapie or not, is a cross check for sanity. As long as
>> >the fuel guage agrees with what you believe to be true, all is well. In
>>
>> Brian: I'm with you on this one. All the handwringing about fuel gauges
>> misses the point. Whether you honor the gauge system with your undying
>> trust or not, it is still useful. Each time you fill your tanks you do a
>> mental calibration, not to identify the last pint of fuel, but to eyeball
>> check the system. The float/gauge system has its weak points but then,
why
>> trust a complex system that depends on a little whirlygig to tell the
>> computer how much fuel has passed through on its way to the engine? A
>
>Just for clarity, I want to go on record as being in favor of both the
>lowly float-type fuel guage and the fuel flow/totalizer. I really like
>knowing how much fuel I am really using and whether I am going to be
>stretching things. Only the totalizer gives me that accuracy. OTOH, the
>fuel guage gives me a good cross check as to how much fuel is actually in
>the tank. Please put me on the fence with feet in both camps.
>
>Brian Lloyd
>brian(at)lloyd.com
>+1.530.676.6513
Brian: I mean no putdown of the totalizer and am willing to be convinced
but so far I have not been. I do plan to use the capacitance senders and EI
gauge in the manner of Dick Martin in the new airplane. I have never held
the Westach gauges in very high regard and the ability to calibrate the EI
should be worthwhile.
Gordon Comfort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | securing Robbin's exhaust |
Hi,
RE: Robbin's Wings crossover exhaust
The instructions for installation of the Robbin's crossover exhaust and
Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
other.
Robbin's tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
sections of metal and rubber tubing.
Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
the engine itself.
Has anyone had problems with Robbin's recommended installation?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
Let's try that again, Vetterman's exhaust. Doh!
-Glenn
> Hi,
>
> RE: Vetterman's crossover exhaust
>
> The instructions for installation of the Vetterman's crossover exhaust and
> Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
> other.
>
> Vetterman tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
> sections of metal and rubber tubing.
>
> Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
> the engine itself.
>
> Has anyone had problems with Vetterman's recommended installation?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
A good fix is to buy a cheap sp400 or equal w/the radio application if the
intercom is on mikes are hot.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Flight to the Arctic |
At the risk of being accused of shamelessly self promoting, the Canadian
Discovery Channel has picked up my story of flying to the Arctic on
their web site.
<http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52>
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Jim Cone's Rudder Trim posting Done! |
<>
'bout the rudder trim...anyone?
Done!
And now we shall send copious amounts of gratitude in the general direction
of Frank for finishing this off.
This is more of what this list is all about - learning from each other.
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson N822AR (reserved)
HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
I recall Vetterman wanting you to fabricate standoffs from the bolts that
secure the oil pan on........check the hand sketches Vetterman
supplied......Tony B. & Vetterman are not at odds........
glenng(at)megsinet.net on 10/22/99 08:20:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
Let's try that again, Vetterman's exhaust. Doh!
-Glenn
> Hi,
>
> RE: Vetterman's crossover exhaust
>
> The instructions for installation of the Vetterman's crossover exhaust and
> Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
> other.
>
> Vetterman tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
> sections of metal and rubber tubing.
>
> Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
> the engine itself.
>
> Has anyone had problems with Vetterman's recommended installation?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Give RMD a call. He sells his kit with two different lights. One
is official aircraft stuff and the other is an off-the-shelf bulb that can
be procurred at any auto store.
Mike
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log
From: MRawls3896@MRawls3896 on 10/21/99 07:19 PM
To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
In a message dated 10/21/99 11:12:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
DKugler618(at)aol.com writes:
Anyone seen a lens/reflector combination that is the same size as a
standard
aircraft landing lamp (4309, 4313, etc...) that will accept a
standard,
off-the-shelf, and inexpensive H3 quartz halogen bulb? I've found
smaller
diameter ones, but was looking to get something that would fit the
original
mounting hole & hardware found in many production aircraft as well
as the
RMD
tip lights.
-Don
RV8
Have you checked your local motorcycle shop? They have all
size's and
shapes.
Mike Rawls (waiting on wings)
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
The bracket kit now supplied with the High Country (Vetterman) exhaust
system has Adel clamps for attaching the brackets to the engine mount
(at least for the RV-6/6-A).
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://hone.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-----------------------
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> I recall Vetterman wanting you to fabricate standoffs from the bolts that
> secure the oil pan on........check the hand sketches Vetterman
> supplied......Tony B. & Vetterman are not at odds........
>
> glenng(at)megsinet.net on 10/22/99 08:20:06 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
>
>
> Let's try that again, Vetterman's exhaust. Doh!
> -Glenn
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > RE: Vetterman's crossover exhaust
> >
> > The instructions for installation of the Vetterman's crossover exhaust and
> > Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
> > other.
> >
> > Vetterman tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
> > sections of metal and rubber tubing.
> >
> > Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
> > the engine itself.
> >
> > Has anyone had problems with Vetterman's recommended installation?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
Not when it comes to attaching his exhaust to a RV-6. The instructions
clearly show attaching the rods and tubing to the crossbar on the lower
mount.
There are many, many Vetterman systems flying. To date, almost all of the
reports have been glowing with little record of breakage from this attaching
system. Check the archives for details. You should get maybe........10,000
hits!.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Still Painting.."
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
>
>
>I recall Vetterman wanting you to fabricate standoffs from the bolts that
>secure the oil pan on........check the hand sketches Vetterman
>supplied......Tony B. & Vetterman are not at odds........
>
>
>glenng(at)megsinet.net on 10/22/99 08:20:06 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
>
>
>Let's try that again, Vetterman's exhaust. Doh!
>-Glenn
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> RE: Vetterman's crossover exhaust
>>
>> The instructions for installation of the Vetterman's crossover exhaust
and
>> Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
>> other.
>>
>> Vetterman tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
>> sections of metal and rubber tubing.
>>
>> Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
>> the engine itself.
>>
>> Has anyone had problems with Vetterman's recommended installation?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Glenn Gordon
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
In a message dated 10/22/99 7:51:19, pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< I recall Vetterman wanting you to fabricate standoffs from the bolts that
secure the oil pan on........check the hand sketches Vetterman
supplied......Tony B. & Vetterman are not at odds........
glenng(at)megsinet.net on 10/22/99 08:20:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
Let's try that again, Vetterman's exhaust. Doh!
-Glenn
> Hi,
>
> RE: Vetterman's crossover exhaust
>
> The instructions for installation of the Vetterman's crossover exhaust and
> Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward" seem to be at odds with each
> other.
>
> Vetterman tell you to secure the exhaust pipes to the engine mount using
> sections of metal and rubber tubing.
>
> Bingelis in the illustration on Pg 97 says to only secure the exhaust to
> the engine itself.
>
> Has anyone had problems with Vetterman's recommended installation?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon >>
I think everyone is somewhat right on this.
Vetterman's current crossover exhaust comes with a sub kit and instructions
to suspend it from the engine mounts with tubes and rubber hose stuff. I
know of no complaints on the later method, and I have used it for several
hundred hours with excellent results.
If you have any questions, I would encourage you to call him. I am told his
new number is 605-745-5932.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Specs/engine mounts |
In a message dated 10/21/99 11:19:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com
writes:
<< So what is the torque spec, and how does one compute it by the diameter of
the bolt? >>
Bolt torque specs are in AC43.13-1B
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight to the Arctic |
Shameless self promotion??? You go right ahead. You have a great deal to
be proud of and you're a member of the RV family. I read your article and
found it to be inspirational.
I hope to adventure with my younger son when I finish.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Still Painting.."
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flight to the Arctic
>
>At the risk of being accused of shamelessly self promoting, the Canadian
>Discovery Channel has picked up my story of flying to the Arctic on
>their web site.
>
><http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52>
>
>Terry Jantzi
>RV-6 C-GZRV
>Kitchener
>--
>http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: securing Vetterman's exhaust |
I had the same question when I did my exhaust and called Larry. He said "6
of one, half dozen of the other". The main point he made was that with the
shock mounts you've isolated the vibration and movement. He said he knows of
no problems with it among the many in the field that were done that way. I
think the main advantages to this is that it's 1) simpler, and 2) doesn't
involve messing with some important bolts that hold the engine together.
All that being said, I still went ahead and hung mine from the case bolts. I
dunno, it just seemed "righter".
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim |
Hi Eric
I'd like to see Jim's rudder trim design. How's the fuselage coming? I
ordered my fuselage kit 2 weeks ago.
Sam
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on 10/20/99 05:34:19 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Jim Cone's Rudder Trim
SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for
Hi All,
In the interest of community service I thought I would make this offer. I have
the copy of Van's Airforce newsletter with the article and drawing about Jim's
spring bias rudder trim here at work. I would be happy to fax it to anyone that
is seriously considering an alternative to fixed or mechanical tabs.
Please respond off the list to:
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)webcombo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Float Senders |
I've had Matt's FUELSCAN for almost 3 years and 350 hours. Wouldn't leave home
without it. A fantastic supplement to sticking my nose in each tank before
takeoff and stopwatch. Accurate to 3/10 gallon per fillup(approx 20 gal) and I
have never tweaked it. Fuel gauges used as cross ref for the conditions Brian
stated.
BTW I have capacitance senders and have had 2 sender failures, Westach gauge
still working, though I still want the EI .
--
Todd tmrv6(at)webcombo.net RV-6 N92TM Flying in Southern MD
Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
> -
> Brian: I mean no putdown of the totalizer and am willing to be convinced
> but so far I have not been. I do plan to use the capacitance senders and EI
> gauge in the manner of Dick Martin in the new airplane. I have never held
> the Westach gauges in very high regard and the ability to calibrate the EI
> should be worthwhile.
>
> Gordon Comfort
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Listers:
For any that are interested I finally found the correct part number if you
desire to use Lord engine mounts instead of Barry mounts. The Lord # is
J-9613-49. They are more expensive ($92 each from A/C Spruce).
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
The ball joints located just aft of the cossover intersection is a flexible
joint. This flex joint is the reason that Larry has provided parts and
instructions for mounting the aft tubes to the engine mount. If there were no
ball joints, the system would not work for very long and would crack.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
>
>I recall Vetterman wanting you to fabricate standoffs from the bolts that
>secure the oil pan on........check the hand sketches Vetterman
>supplied......Tony B. & Vetterman are not at odds........
That's a negative on that one. I just looked at my exhaust instructions and
they are clear as to mounting the standoffs to teh engine mount. The rubber
tubing takes up the shock as well as the ball joints in the tail pipes.
Tonys' way isn't 'wrong' either. He was promoting a vibration free exhaust
but didn't have the Vetterman improved exhaust methods to draw from when he
wrote the article.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts problems |
RV-8/8A builders,
I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no
limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to
remove old material to make room for new stuff.
So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering
putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions
or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. If everyone sends me info on the
problems they are aware of, this could become a useful resource. If
no one contributes, it will go nowhere.
Please send me info on know problems. I'll post a message once I get
the page up and running.
If it is a problem with the plans, please specify what drawing number
and revision level. Please clearly explain the problem, any info you
got from Vans', and what you did to fix the problem.
If it is a problem with the instructions, please indicate what
section and page, and the date on your version of the plans.
If you've already put something on the web explaining a problem, just
send me the location, and I'll just add a link to your info.
Happy building,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob, I recently bought a copy of the AeroElectric Connection and think
>it's a great resource...I have one question and I'm sure it's in the
>book somewhere (I just can't find it), but what is the difference
>between an Essential Bus and the other power distribution buses?
>
>Thanks for the primer!
>
You're welcome. I'm pleased that you find the work useful!
Not much . . . bus structures can be divided up for
a variety of reasons. The items powered from any particular
bus will have something in common. For example, a fuseblock
or row of breakers might be feed from the always hot side
of a battery contactor to supply needs of dome lights, clocks,
engine hour-meters, electronic ignition, . . . any item that
you want to have powered EVEN IF the rest of the electrical
system is shut down.
In the case of an ESSENTIAL bus, I encourage builders to
consider the electrical items most useful in getting to
intended destination. These must certainly include minimal
lighting, primary nav radio, turn coordinator, a voltmeter
and perhaps engine boost pump. The goal is to define a very
low energy budget for utilizing a finite amount of energy
on board in terms of battery capacity.
I discourage calling it an EMERGENCY bus . . . if airplanes
are properly designed and operated, electrical emergencies
don't happen. This is why we have an ESSENTIAL bus - to
keep an electrical event from becoming an EMERGENCY. Some
builders still call it their "avionics" bus and include
the now outdated "avionics master" switch in the normal
feed path. Note however that the essential bus in my drawings
have two, independent power pathways to get electrons to the
most needed devices.
Hope this helps . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts problems |
Good idea, but in a way, you're sort of replicating in part a major effort
that's expected to be available Nov 15 on the web.
For starters, you'll be able to update all of your plans with all revisions
(published or not), search for any articles written on any particlar
problem, or search Van's tech support to see if it's been answered before...
~Jeremy
jwb(at)europa.com
SD: In this message, I don't speak for my employer, clients, the US
Goverment, or anyone else.
>
>RV-8/8A builders,
>
>I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no
>limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to
>remove old material to make room for new stuff.
>
>So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering
>putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions
>or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. If everyone sends me info on the
>problems they are aware of, this could become a useful resource. If
>no one contributes, it will go nowhere.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> Some
> builders still call it their "avionics" bus and include
> the now outdated "avionics master" switch in the normal
> feed path.
I doubt I'm the only one with this follow-up question...
Why is an avionics master switch outdated?
The Grob 109B motorglider I fly uses such a switch to isolate the
avionics from voltage spikes during engine starts, in-flight or on the
ground. At least that was what I was taught.
"Modern" avionics no longer need that protection (self-protecting)? Or
can the bus be designed to protect all equipment on the bus against it?
It may show that I haven't read the book.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Size of Vacuum Pump |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to plan ahead a little bit here under the cowl. Can
> someone
> please e-mail me the following dimensions for a Rapco/Airborne
> Vacuum
> pump?
>
> 1. Max O.D.? It is 3 1/2" in diameter.
> 2. Length from mounting size of endine mounting plate to end of
> unit? 4 3/8" from engine flange to back of unit.
> 3. Any other dimensions that might be useful for planning purposes.
>Hi Glen, Why don't you just buy a good used unit that you can use for a
mockup. I just happen to have a Rapco overhauled Airborne model 211CC-9
for sale. It appears to be in good shape, no broken vanes, etc. I will
sell it for $100 . At this price if their is a problem with the pump you
will already have paid for the core, which is most often $100. David
Ahrens RV-6A without vacuum gyros
>>
>
>
>
>
>
--
>
>
--
>
>
--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Home Built Fresh Air Supply |
Here is a picture and some instructions for making your very own fresh air
supply system instead of spending $300 for one of the commercially availible
ones.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2951/air_supply.html
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight to the Arctic |
Congratulations Terry,
Well deserved recognition.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
>
> At the risk of being accused of shamelessly self promoting, the Canadian
> Discovery Channel has picked up my story of flying to the Arctic on
> their web site.
>
> <http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52>
>
> Terry Jantzi
> RV-6 C-GZRV
> Kitchener
> --
> http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Hi gang,
How do you determine the torque needed on the main wheel axle nuts on an
RV-4. Do you use any tools (wrenches, etc.) or will hand tightening supply
enough torque?
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming SB 540 Valve Seat Inspection |
Textron Lycoming
October 11, 1999 Service Bulletin No. 540
Subject: Valve Seat Inspection
Models Affected:
Models and serial numbers of all engines affected and
shipped from Textron Lycoming between June 25, 1999
and September 24, 1999 are listed in Attachment 2.
Textron Lycoming cylinder kits and assemblies shipped
between June 25, 1999 and September 24, 1999 are
identified in Attachment 1.
TIME OF COMPLIANCE: Prior to further flight.
Textron Lycoming has received a field report of a
standard size valve seat being installed in an
oversized machined valve port in the cylinder. Both
intake and exhaust valve seats could be affected.
If your engine or cylinder kit was not shipped from
Textron Lycoming between the above dates, this Service
Bulltein does not apply to your engine.
I received the Service Bulletin in the mail today.
Since this applies to the engines that are recommended
to be used in our RVs, I thought I would let my fellow
RVers know about it. I am flying a lot of Superior
Airparts in my RV and this does not apply to my
aircraft.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
Brian
I have an SL 40 comm [11 Morrow] that was installed by Chief Aircraft. They
told me I could not use the built in intercom with my audio panel??
Derek Reed
>> Has anyone had any practical experience with the built-in intercoms
>
>I set one up for someone who had installed one in a Christen Eagle. It
>worked just fine.
>
>Brian Lloyd
>brian(at)lloyd.com
>+1.530.676.6513
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <dave(at)davebarnhart.com> |
| Subject: | I am famous again |
The New RVator arrived today, and much to my surprise and pleasure, I
discovered that among the photos of instrument panels on the inside front
cover, mine is one of them.
If anyone is interested, it is Photo 6.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Axle Nut Torque |
After greasing the wheel bearings follow this tip:
1) Tighten axel nut very tight with wrench or channel locks.
2) Back off axel nut untill the wheel has free play (grab top and bottom of
wheel and make sure it has play by pulling with one hand and pushing with
the other back and forth).
3) Tighten axel nut back up just untill the free play is gone then tighen
to next cotter key hole.
Bryan Files
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
-4 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 4:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Axle Nut Torque
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> How do you determine the torque needed on the main wheel axle nuts on an
> RV-4. Do you use any tools (wrenches, etc.) or will hand tightening supply
> enough torque?
>
>
> Louis
>
> Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
> larywil(at)home.com
> (610) 668-4964
> Philadelphia, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
On Fri, 22 Oct 1999, Derek Reed wrote:
>
> Brian
> I have an SL 40 comm [11 Morrow] that was installed by Chief Aircraft. They
> told me I could not use the built in intercom with my audio panel??
That makes sense. The purpose behind the built-in intercom in radios
that have them, e.g. the Apollo radios, Terra TX-760, etc., is so you can
have a bare-bones panel with only a comm and nothing else. Once you add
an audio panel, the microphone is no longer direcly plumbed into the
radio and audio is not directed to the radio until PTT is pushed (some
audio panels). This means no intercom. In that case you need an
external intercom or you need to select an audio panel with a built-in
intercom.
For someone who wants a least-cost VFR panel, the built-in intercom is
certainly the right price since it comes with the radio. The Christen
Eagle I worked on had no other avionics besides the Apollo GX-65. In
that case it worked peachy.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts problems |
In a message dated 10/22/99 1:39:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
<< now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering
putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions
or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. If everyone sends me info on the
problems they are aware of, this could become a useful resource. If
no one contributes, it will go nowhere.
Please send me info on known problems. >>
There is a gentleman on the Kitfox list that posts a monthly updated listing
called "KitfoxSafe" that is, I think, somewhat similar to what you are
proposing. Why not call yours "RVSafe" so we can have an easy search path on
the net.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
Join the club. I did the same thing. I was lucky, it was on the bottom. I just
left it and consider it a drain hole.
George.
----------
From: Mark D. Dickens[SMTP:mddickens(at)mindspring.com]
Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 8:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hole in HS Skin
I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Empennage (may never get finished at this rate)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts |
problems
I didn't know that Van's was planning on addressing this sort of
issue. I'll wait and see what the Van's website update looks like,
then decide whether there is a need for any additional info. I
certainly don't want to duplicate anything that Vans does.
Kevin
>
>Good idea, but in a way, you're sort of replicating in part a major effort
>that's expected to be available Nov 15 on the web.
>
>For starters, you'll be able to update all of your plans with all revisions
>(published or not), search for any articles written on any particlar
>problem, or search Van's tech support to see if it's been answered before...
>
>~Jeremy
>jwb(at)europa.com
>
>SD: In this message, I don't speak for my employer, clients, the US
>Goverment, or anyone else.
>
>>
>>RV-8/8A builders,
>>
>>I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no
>>limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to
>>remove old material to make room for new stuff.
>>
>>So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering
>>putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions
> >or parts for the RV-8 or 8A.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | RV-List Antennas |
Information about Bob Archer's antennas and the technical articles that he
has written about each, can be found on Platinum Avionics Web site at :
www.pavionics.com
By the way, these articles are well worth reading!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/22/99 4:29:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I doubt I'm the only one with this follow-up question...
Why is an avionics master switch outdated? >>
IMO Bob should have prefaced that comment with "IMO", because it is by no
means a certainty. I know that Bob has what he considers to be good and
valid reasons for believing that the Avionics Master is outdated, but even
smart people of good conscience don't always draw the same conclusions from
what they perceive the facts to be.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 engine mount, etc. |
I am in the process of changing an RV6A to an RV6. I am looking for an RV6
engine mount and tail wheel assembly and mounting brackets. I have for trade
or sale, RV6A engine mount, nose gear, and nose wheel assemblies and main
mounting brackets.
I have this ad in the current RVator, but forgot to put my e-mail address
there!
Chuck
GrayK9(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/23/99 5:45:35 AM GMT Daylight Time, Vanremog(at)aol.com
writes:
<<
Why is an avionics master switch outdated? >>
IMO Bob should have prefaced that comment with "IMO", because it is by no
means a certainty. I know that Bob has what he considers to be good and
valid reasons for believing that the Avionics Master is outdated, but even
smart people of good conscience don't always draw the same conclusions from
what they perceive the facts to be.
>>
Well said Gary
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | DC ANRs for sale |
For sale: David Clark H10-13X ANR headset. Approximately 2.5 yrs old, 100
hrs use, work perfectly, packed in original box. Best street price $582,
sell $350. Selling to get panel mount version for RV-8. Contact Randy
Lervold, randyl(at)pacifier.com, or 800-886-6659 x14.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I am famous again |
No not really. Just Kidding.
Can you put a picture up for us?
Cheers
Peter
"David A. Barnhart" wrote:
>
>
> The New RVator arrived today, and much to my surprise and pleasure, I
> discovered that among the photos of instrument panels on the inside front
> cover, mine is one of them.
>
> If anyone is interested, it is Photo 6.
>
>
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled engine
that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by
an prop overhaul shop employee?
I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts crossed and
the dots in the right places.
Have a great Day!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Countersink of trim tab spar last 4 holes? |
While studying the drawings regarding the trim tab , it is shown that the
top side of E-606 TT spar is countersunk. The softer material of the hinge
is left alone and adequate material is present along the hinge to support
the rivets.
The hinge does not touch the last 4 holes on the outboard end of the E-606
trim tab spar. Does this also get countersunk along with the rest? I know
the plans call for pop rivets for these last 4 holes but my concern is
reducing the "grab" area for the pop rivet by C/S ing this area. It is easy
enough to dimple these last 4 .
I await your collective wisdom.
I do fine on this building process until I start thinking. I usually trust
the drawings and plans but there are a few little muddy areas here and there
and some minor errors on a few drawings that have caused me to examine
things much closer. In all humility I am in no position to second guess the
design of this great craft but the method of technical information
reference could use a revision or 2.
I've heard it said that Engineers DO NOT make mistakes...........they make
revisions
Rob Baxter
Sarnia Canada
RV-8 80970
emp 90% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Axle Nut Torque |
Refer "18 Years of the RVAtor" P133
Torque to 50 ft lb. Back off to zero ft lb. Torque to 10 - 15 ft lb.
Drill cotter hole at this point.
I found that this gives some bearing preload preventing wheels
spinning freely. Apparently this is correct.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney
> How do you determine the torque needed on the main wheel axle nuts on an
> RV-4.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Beware AC$ Stencils |
Listers,
A warning to those doing their own painting:
I bought a two sets of 3" N number stencils from Aircraft Spruce (Part
number 9-3280x). ACS sent 9 stencils that are essentially poor quality
masking tape with the letter/number precut. ACS sent one stencil (the
letter "T") that was a high quality vinly stencil.
Despite the fact that I followed AC$'s directions to the letter, the poor
quality stencils were a disaster. The paint seeped under the edges of
the stencil, leaving a nasty, blotched edge. The single good quality
"T" stencil worked great... crisp, sharp edges.
Recommendation: If you order your stencils from AC$ DEMAND the
high quality vinyl (white) stencils rather than the poor quality (light
brown) stencils.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I will soon be removing the engine and prop from a flying Bede-4 for
installation in a
RV-8.
This airframe will make a good test and break-in vehicle for your engine
while you are building your RV, and will also give you an airplane to fly
during that time. This is what
I have done.
It is now set up for a Lycoming O360-A1A with constant speed prop, but
other engine
and prop combinations may be used.
I plan to remove the engine and prop starting November 1, so if anyone is
interested, I will be happy to give you a demo ride before that date.
The aircraft is based at Dutchess County Airport (POU) in NY State.
Any reasonable offer will be accepted.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (N401TC Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware AC$ Stencils |
Just about any local sign shop should be able to cut computer generated
vinyl stencils for you and probably for less cost than ACS.
Matter of fact, why would you want to paint the N-number on your plane
anyway? Why not just have the sign shop make up whatever numbers and
placards you need and go with all vinyl lettering?
I have used the computer cut lettering on several projects (including my
new RV-6) and consider it to be superior to painting since it is much
easier and faster with no possibility of paint bleeding. The only reason
I can think for painting the numbers is if you are trying to exactly
match custom colors.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home/hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
---------------------
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> A warning to those doing their own painting:
>
> I bought a two sets of 3" N number stencils from Aircraft Spruce (Part
> number 9-3280x). ACS sent 9 stencils that are essentially poor quality
> masking tape with the letter/number precut. ACS sent one stencil (the
> letter "T") that was a high quality vinly stencil.
>
> Despite the fact that I followed AC$'s directions to the letter, the poor
> quality stencils were a disaster. The paint seeped under the edges of
> the stencil, leaving a nasty, blotched edge. The single good quality
> "T" stencil worked great... crisp, sharp edges.
>
> Recommendation: If you order your stencils from AC$ DEMAND the
> high quality vinyl (white) stencils rather than the poor quality (light
> brown) stencils.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> N47TD RV-6A, painting
> Springfield VA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware AC$ Stencils |
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Date: Saturday, October 23, 1999 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Beware AC$ Stencils
>
>The only reason
>I can think for painting the numbers is if you are trying to exactly
>match custom colors.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home/hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
I have heard that planes at Oshkosh are ineligible for awards if the paint
job uses any vinyl graphics -- it has to be all masked paint. IMO this is
another application of the "he with the most money wins" philosophy.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built in intercomms |
Anyone contemplating using the built-in intercom of the UPS Aviation (new
name for II Morrow) SL-40 or the GPS/com units should be advised that while
the built-in intercoms work well there are a couple of gotchas...
1. When using the built-in intercom the standby frequency monitoring
function, which is the sole reason why I'm buying one, is not functional.
2. Both pilot and copilot mics are opened when anyone keys the PTT circuit.
Almost all modern intercoms activate only the mic of the person speaking to
eliminate unwanted noise.
Hope that helps. BTW, this information is available in the manuals that are
downloadable from their site. Plus, AvWeb has reviews on these items and
mentions both of these points.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finish kit
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I am famous again |
When (IF) mine shows up can I have it autographed ;-)
Gert
"David A. Barnhart" wrote:
>
>
> The New RVator arrived today, and much to my surprise and pleasure, I
> discovered that among the photos of instrument panels on the inside front
> cover, mine is one of them.
>
> If anyone is interested, it is Photo 6.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in HS Skin |
Well, welcome to the club of unintended hole borers.
There are those who have done it and there are those who will at some
point.
Congrats, you just passed the line.
Wouldn't glue it in though, set it if at all possible, if not leave the
shank as extra area for the glue. If you do want to glue I would leave
the shank and use proseal.
gert
pat wrote:
>
>
> Join the club. I did the same thing. I was lucky, it was on the bottom. I
just left it and consider it a drain hole.
>
> George.
>
> ----------
> From: Mark D. Dickens[SMTP:mddickens(at)mindspring.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 8:19 PM
> To: RVList
> Subject: RV-List: Hole in HS Skin
>
>
> I can't believe I did this, but while dimpling one of the HS skins at
> the leading edge bend (inboard edge) with my pneumatic squeezer, at the
> moment I pressed the trigger the skin popped off of the male dimple die
> and I punched a hole about 3/8" away from the original hole. And things
> were going so well up to that point...well, what do I do? My current
> plan is to drill out the hole to relieve any tears from the punch,
> dimple it and glue a flush head rivet (sans the shank) in the hole and
> move on a little wiser and more careful. Any ideas out there? I still
> can't believe I did this...banging my head on the wall.
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 Empennage (may never get finished at this rate)
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | WANTED: Handheld Transceiver |
If you have a handheld that you wish to sell (price being a big factor) let
this almost ready to fly pilot know...(719) 539-3991) or relay information
on item and price to me and I'll get it to him...thanks
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
I'm into the painting process, and it turns out that I've got some defective
paint - it has orange peel in it! (Or maybe it was the oaf running the spray
gun...?) Anyway, I'm looking for a buffer. Anyone have experience with the
$50 units sold at auto parts stores, home improvement stores, etc? Will this
type unit be OK for some moderate buffing? If not, please provide some
suggestions for a reasonably priced unit which would work.
And, yeah, I could probably borrow one, but this is a great excuse to buy
another tool.
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Wing skins |
> > I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing
> > skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to
use
> > only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt joint
> > using two rows of rivets.It might require some thought and planning in
the
> > fuel tank area.
This kind of idea should be put into writing/drawing and sent to Van. It is
an engineering change. Half the amount of rivets might equate to half the
strength. Please document these types of changes in your constuction log so
that future buyers of the airplane will be aware that the wing is not the
same as the thousands of other RV wings out there. Resale value of an
airplane modified like this is likely to be sustantially lower than market.
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> I just purchased a King com/nav radio KX170B (at a very good price and
> yellow tagged) it also has a KI-201C indicator, my problem is I need the
> tray and connector for it, also I would like to get all the mannuals for
the
> com/nav particularly the instalation mannual.
You should go for a new connector from the an avionics dealer to ensure max
reliability in service. You might be able to borrow the manuals from some
one on this list and photocopy them. There are other lists out there and you
could also try the newsgroups. Keep trying. You can build your own tray
quite easily expecially if this will be your only radio. Use a combination
of 0.040 or 0.032 sheet and 3/4 by 3/4 by 0.063 angle. Box it in. Goto Vans
webpage and start going through builders webpages. There are several there
with great pictures of home made avionics trays. Maybee some one else can
point at a specific link?
Regards,
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DC ANRs for sale |
Randy;
Check out the DC H10-56XP. It has the best passive noise attenuation.
It's their ANR designed for helicopters but works for fixed wing too.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q 80591
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware AC$ Stencils |
I used all vinyl letters, numbers, stars and decals from Moody
Aero-Graphics and they were of very high quality and came with excellent
instructions. Following the instructions was easy and every decal turned
out good. http://www.moodyaero.com
Bill Pagan
N565BW(Reserved)
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Listers,
>
>A warning to those doing their own painting:
>
>I bought a two sets of 3" N number stencils from Aircraft Spruce (Part
>number 9-3280x). ACS sent 9 stencils that are essentially poor quality
>masking tape with the letter/number precut. ACS sent one stencil (the
>letter "T") that was a high quality vinly stencil.
>
>Despite the fact that I followed AC$'s directions to the letter, the poor
>quality stencils were a disaster. The paint seeped under the edges of
>the stencil, leaving a nasty, blotched edge. The single good quality
>"T" stencil worked great... crisp, sharp edges.
>
>Recommendation: If you order your stencils from AC$ DEMAND the
>high quality vinyl (white) stencils rather than the poor quality (light
>brown) stencils.
>
>Tim
>******
>Tim Lewis
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>N47TD RV-6A, painting
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan Johnson" <EVMEG(at)teleport.com> |
Kyle, unfortunately in my experience the only way to get rid of orange peel
is a bit more complicated than just buffing. You will probably have to color
sand your paint first and then buff with several progressively finer grit
compounds. If your imperfections are very shallow, you may get away with
just the compounds. Color sanding is no fun. I have done this on several car
projects and found that the only reasonable approach is wet sanding by hand.
I seem to remember 1500 grit to start with. The buffers at the auto parts
stores will not cut fast enough to do any good. I bought one and tried and
have not used it since. (waxmaster I think) A good buffer will probably run
more in the $350 dollar range. You might try to talk to a detail shop. They
often tend to cost less than paint shops and they do the same kind of
polishing. Not sure this helps, but good luck..........Evan
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, October 23, 1999 11:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Buffers
>
>
>I'm into the painting process, and it turns out that I've got some
defective
>paint - it has orange peel in it! (Or maybe it was the oaf running the
spray
>gun...?) Anyway, I'm looking for a buffer. Anyone have experience with
the
>$50 units sold at auto parts stores, home improvement stores, etc? Will
this
>type unit be OK for some moderate buffing? If not, please provide some
>suggestions for a reasonably priced unit which would work.
>
>And, yeah, I could probably borrow one, but this is a great excuse to buy
>another tool.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 10/22/99 |
I've been using Sherwin Williams 988 self-etching primer on inside skins, spar
material and miscellaneous parts so far. It's been pointed out to me recently
that
maybe the one step acid etch/priming is not such a good idea. Something about
the
fact that the acid within the one step primer does not get washed away as the two
step method of etching/wash, then primer--as I understand it. The theory is that
moisture and/or humidity will reactivate the acidic ingredient in this primer causing
a continual etching away. Is this a valid concern? Does anyone have solid insight
into
this method of priming bare aluminum? I've researched this in the archives and
at one
time felt this self-etching primer would be a good way for me to go, now I'm not
so
sure. Any help out there?
Dave Ford
RV6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
RV6 24049 Registration C-GFLG based at Brampton Ontario made a
successful first flight today.
Four years two months from starting the tail kit.
No trim changes required, 180mph indicated 2000 feet @ 2500 rpm (No leg
or wheel fairings yet). Engine was obtained from the local flying club
with 2350 hours time on it.( 160 hp 320-D2J)
Only thing I noticed was the flaps (trailing edge) appeared to be
slightly higher than the ailerons as if they may be pushed up by the
airflow, on the ground they do line up. All the linkages are tight,
possibly the flap twists slightly to raise the outboard end. Comments?
Needs a little nose down trim for level flight, I guess the stabilizers
angle of attach may need increasing.
October 15, 1999 - October 23, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hd