RV-List Archive Browser

RV-Archive.digest.vol-he
October 23, 1999 - October 29, 1999

Empty weight without paint 1019 lbs. Aymar-Demuth 68x74 wood prop. Regards Peter Burrowes (Toronto Canada) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
Date: Oct 23, 1999
I just tried on a pair of Lightspeed 25x headsets (borrowed from a friend) in my RV-6, and I can't help but wonder, what am I missing here? I flew for about 40 minutes with them and yes, the ANR does eliminate the low frequency noise. But it seems to do very little with the high frequency noise. There was a faint but constant hissing, and the audio was tinny and hurt my ears. Not only that, but something about the ANR seemed to mess with my inner ear and made me queasy. I finally turned off the ANR. Has anyone else experienced this? I suppose the headset could be defective or need tuning, or maybe its just not tuned for a plane that has a lot of high frequency sound. Which my plane does, I think from the propwash hitting the windscreen as well as air leaks around the canopy skirts. But with my Peltors I've never noticed it, and in fact I never was bothered by the amount of low freqency sound -- the abscence of it in fact was disconcerting with the ANRs, as I felt I couldn't sense what my engine was doing as well as I wanted to. If this is really what the ANRs are like, I'll stick with my trusty Peltors, which, frankly, I've been very happy with anyway. In fact my wife never complains when she has the Peltors on, and she has very sensitive ears. I hope this doesn't start a flame war, I know there are a lot of people who swear by their ANRs. I just thought that with all the hype, maybe a vote for the "old standard" might be in order. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hours) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Mosur" <jmosur(at)interlog.com>
Subject: Re: First FLight
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Peter, Good show. Jim. -----Original Message----- From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> Date: Saturday, October 23, 1999 11:39 PM Subject: RV-List: First FLight > >RV6 24049 Registration C-GFLG based at Brampton Ontario made a >successful first flight today. > >Four years two months from starting the tail kit. > >No trim changes required, 180mph indicated 2000 feet @ 2500 rpm (No leg >or wheel fairings yet). Engine was obtained from the local flying club >with 2350 hours time on it.( 160 hp 320-D2J) > >Only thing I noticed was the flaps (trailing edge) appeared to be >slightly higher than the ailerons as if they may be pushed up by the >airflow, on the ground they do line up. All the linkages are tight, >possibly the flap twists slightly to raise the outboard end. Comments? > >Needs a little nose down trim for level flight, I guess the stabilizers >angle of attach may need increasing. > >Empty weight without paint 1019 lbs. Aymar-Demuth 68x74 wood prop. > >Regards Peter Burrowes (Toronto Canada) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 1999
From: jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: New RV-8 Rudder on a RV-4
All, I noticed that the new RV-8's will be shipping with a larger rudder for "added stabilility". I would like to do this to my RV-4 also. Would Van's have a problem with me putting an RV-8 Rudder on my 4? JB Kevin Horton wrote: > > I didn't know that Van's was planning on addressing this sort of > issue. I'll wait and see what the Van's website update looks like, > then decide whether there is a need for any additional info. I > certainly don't want to duplicate anything that Vans does. > > Kevin > > > > >Good idea, but in a way, you're sort of replicating in part a major effort > >that's expected to be available Nov 15 on the web. > > > >For starters, you'll be able to update all of your plans with all revisions > >(published or not), search for any articles written on any particlar > >problem, or search Van's tech support to see if it's been answered before... > > > >~Jeremy > >jwb(at)europa.com > > > >SD: In this message, I don't speak for my employer, clients, the US > >Goverment, or anyone else. > > > >> > >>RV-8/8A builders, > >> > >>I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no > >>limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to > >>remove old material to make room for new stuff. > >> > >>So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering > >>putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions > > >or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. > > > > Matronics: http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives > Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 1999
From: dgates <dgates(at)techie.com>
Subject: Pilot's Prayer
Oh controller, who sits in tower, Hallowed be thy sector. Thy traffic come, thy instructions be done, On the ground as in the air. Give us this day our radar vectors, And forgive us our incursions, As we forgive those who restrict our speed on final. And lead us not into adverse weather, But deliver us our clearances. Roger (Amen) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
Date: Oct 24, 1999
The low frequency range noise is all it is designed for. That is the noise that most effects our ears, and can physically wear down a pilot. I have flown wtih Bose headsets, and can honestly say that I would purchase a pair in a heartbeat if I didn't have other $1000 items to buy. I plan on the lightspeed, but have not yet tried them. Maybe you had a bad pair, but most seem to swear that the lightspeeds are far superior to any non ANR headset. Your milage may vary. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:55 AM Subject: RV-List: ANR -- what's all the fuss? > >I just tried on a pair of Lightspeed 25x headsets (borrowed from a friend) >in my RV-6, and I can't help but wonder, what am I missing here? I flew for >about 40 minutes with them and yes, the ANR does eliminate the low frequency >noise. But it seems to do very little with the high frequency noise. There >was a faint but constant hissing, and the audio was tinny and hurt my ears. >Not only that, but something about the ANR seemed to mess with my inner ear >and made me queasy. I finally turned off the ANR. > >Has anyone else experienced this? I suppose the headset could be defective >or need tuning, or maybe its just not tuned for a plane that has a lot of >high frequency sound. Which my plane does, I think from the propwash hitting >the windscreen as well as air leaks around the canopy skirts. But with my >Peltors I've never noticed it, and in fact I never was bothered by the >amount of low freqency sound -- the abscence of it in fact was disconcerting >with the ANRs, as I felt I couldn't sense what my engine was doing as well >as I wanted to. > >If this is really what the ANRs are like, I'll stick with my trusty Peltors, >which, frankly, I've been very happy with anyway. In fact my wife never >complains when she has the Peltors on, and she has very sensitive ears. > >I hope this doesn't start a flame war, I know there are a lot of people who >swear by their ANRs. I just thought that with all the hype, maybe a vote for >the "old standard" might be in order. > >Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hours) >Portland, OR >http://www.edt.com/homewing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Denton, Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are to be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is conducted. Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to do is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for future overhauls. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB Just installed wings In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Denton Harjehausen writes: > > Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled engine > that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by > an prop overhaul shop employee? > I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts crossed and > the dots in the right places. > > > Have a great Day! > Denny Harjehausen > Lebanon, OR > RV-6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: wood stiffeners in the RV-6A main gear legs
Date: Oct 24, 1999
I recall about a year ago that Tim Lewis and maybe several others were communicating on the List about omitting the wood stiffeners in their RV-6As. I have my RV-6A on gear and I would like to try the plane (if it ever moves under its own power) without the wood stiffeners. Is anyone flying the RV-6A without the wood in the main gear? If so, how do you like it? Would you put the wood in if you had the time to do it over again? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A main gear fairings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 Rudder on a RV-4
> >I noticed that the new RV-8's will be shipping with a larger rudder for "added >stabilility". I would like to do this to my RV-4 also. Would Van's have a >problem with me putting an RV-8 Rudder on my 4? > I think you are the guy who would have the problem, because I doubt that it would fit. Van increased the height of the VS on the RV-8 slightly (I think), and put a mass balance on the rudder (like on the elevators). I just measured the height on my rudder. It is 51 3/16 from the bottom of the rudder to the bottom of the mass balance. Van had to make these changes because of the increased side area of the RV-8 canopy, and it is designed to take a bit more power. Your RV-4 should be just fine with the rudder you've got, unless you put an RV-8 canopy on your RV-4, and stuff in a 200 hp IO-360, in which case you might want the RV-8 rudder. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: Beware AC$ Stencils
Date: Oct 24, 1999
>>I have heard that planes at Oshkosh are ineligible for awards if the >>paint job uses any vinyl graphics -- > >If you are after awards, then yes, go with the paint....I obviously >can't speak for others, but I am after a fun, flying airplane! To be >honest, I could care less if I ever receive an award.... a simple, >"Nice looking airplane you got there" will mean much more to me >than a panel of judges going over my airplane with a fine tooth >come. Now, you're cooking, Paul. What so many of us forget is that we're building something for our own pleasure. To heck with what others think. I can remember when I first started that I was going to build something as perfectly as I could. That idea disappeared when I drilled my first set of rivet holes. :-) Today, as I complete my RV-6A that's taken over 7 elapsed years to build, I can look at my airplane and be proud of what I've accomplished in the boonies of KY. It's not perfect and would never win an award at Oshkosh; but, it sure does look nice to me. Others have told me same; so, maybe my ideas of what nice is isn't way off in left field. Maybe I did build it as perfectly as I could with the talents I have and have achieved my goal. I'm certainly satisfied with that idea and don't feel it necessary to get any judge's approval. Yesterday, I was driving home from the airport and saw this neat set of graphics on the side of a pickup. Boy, would I like to have those on the side of my RV! I guess that makes me less than perfect to the judges at Oshkosh. Since the folks up there will never see my RV, it doesn't matter. Now, if I could just remember what kind of pickup that was. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Hope to fly in December. No paint, yet.) AA-5A N26276 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Subject: Re: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
Ive flown with a set of 20k's for a couple of years now and I just recently traded them in for a set of 25k's. Yes the audio is a little more "tinney" and they fit a little tighter on my head. They do however make the cockpit quieter, the microphone boom is stiffer and the mic stays in place better and I think lightspeed improved the mic over my 2 year old 20k's. They now instruct you in proper microphone placement and orientation. Also, I can hear my CD player a little better. They work in conjunction with my passenger set of 20k's better than anything else Ive tried to date. If you have a new set of 20k's I'd just keep them, however if your 20k's are a couple of years old they would definately be worth upgrading to 25k's I only wish lightspeed would have put a strip of sheepskin on top of the head band. Chet Razer and Miss Chiquita 215 hrs now ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Subject: Winds Aloft
Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather channel or duats. chet ________________________________________________________________________________
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
I too was a little dissapointed by the high freq noise getting through my Telex 4100 ANR. But I have never heard of anyone getting dizzy from them. The sound reproduction is so excellent in mine that I got a second pair. I think that maybe the David Clarks do a better job yet with the high freq sound. I suggest trying a different pair or a different brand. However, a good pasive pair with 'foamies' underneath works just as good IMHO, but is just a litle less comfortable on long trips. Dave Leonard 6QB >>>>If this is really what the ANRs are like, I'll stick with my trusty Peltors, which, frankly, I've been very happy with anyway. In fact my wife never complains when she has the Peltors on, and she has very sensitive ears.<<<<< ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Try intellicast.com Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Chet: Although not graphical, this is the best winds aloft site that I have found. Check it out: http://www.aviationweather.com/ Pat Hatch RV-4 N-17PH @ INT RV-6 Wing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 9:30 AM Subject: RV-List: Winds Aloft > > Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds > aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather > channel or duats. > > chet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
In a message dated 10/23/99 21:55:03, randallh(at)home.com writes: << I hope this doesn't start a flame war, I know there are a lot of people who swear by their ANRs. I just thought that with all the hype, maybe a vote for the "old standard" might be in order. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (35 hours) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing >> Randall I have had similar experiences. When I heve compared the ANR with my Peltors, the first thing I notice is how much better the Peltor seals off the high freq noise, while the ANRs don't seem to seal nearly as well, and definitely don't do nearly as good a job until you turn the magic on. I have even had the evil thought they are made that way just so you can notice the stark comparison between "on' vs "off" ! Therefore I am still happy with my lightweight Peltors and good head clearance from the canopy. However Iam thinking I would like to try Peltor's ANR?? Perhaps they have retained the characteristics of the old sets and just added ANR. They are awfully proud of them though. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: wood stiffeners in the RV-6A main gear legs
In a message dated 10/24/99 4:53:03, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: I recall about a year ago that Tim Lewis and maybe several others were communicating on the List about omitting the wood stiffeners in their RV-6As. I have my RV-6As on gear and I would like to try the plane (if it ever moves under its own power) without the wood stiffeners. Is anyone flying the RV-6A without the wood in the main gear? If so, how do you like it? Would you put the wood in if you had the time to do it over again? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A main gear fairings >> When I was building I called Geo Orndorff and asked him. His quote was "You don't need them". So I gave it a try without stiffeners on the main gear. At first I was bothered because I wasn't sure whether I was getting main gear shake or nose gear shimmy. In fact they are quite different, and easily differentiated I have been flying for 540 hours that way, and offer the following: I do get gear shake at 23 to 30 MPH when taxiing either during acceleration or on slow down after landing. For reasons I can not explain, it does not happen on take off acceleration. At the other times it does not happen all the time but around 80 to 90 percent. It depends on tire pressure, balance wear pattern, gross weight, etc. I have got used to it and therefore don't taxi above 23 unless I need to. I kind of like it on landing because I can tell when I am going slow enough to turn off with out looking at the indicator. It lasts from two to three or four seconds on landing, depending on whether you are on the brakes or not. I am not going to add them and would not do it next time either. I really like the idea of being able to easily inspect the legs and lines. P S I have noticed no difference in the way the nose gear behaves. (The new one has no stiffener.) It wants to shimmy above 70 and does nothing below. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Date: Oct 24, 1999
I've found two new sites: www.rap.ucar.edu that will also lead to www.adds.awc-kc.noaa.gov . Rick Jory Highlands Ranch, Co -----Original Message----- From: pat_hatch <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 8:25 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Winds Aloft > >Chet: > >Although not graphical, this is the best winds aloft site that I have found. >Check it out: http://www.aviationweather.com/ > >Pat Hatch >RV-4 N-17PH @ INT >RV-6 Wing Kit > >----- Original Message ----- >From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> >To: >Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 9:30 AM >Subject: RV-List: Winds Aloft > > >> >> Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds >> aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather >> channel or duats. >> >> chet >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 24, 1999
You do NOT have to remove the data plate. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > >Denton, > >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are to be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is conducted. Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to do is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for future overhauls. > >Mike Robertson >RV-8A QB Just installed wings > > >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Denton Harjehausen writes: > >> >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled engine >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by >> an prop overhaul shop employee? >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts crossed and >> the dots in the right places. >> >> >> Have a great Day! >> Denny Harjehausen >> Lebanon, OR >> RV-6 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV4 flat plate drag area
In "The Illustrated Guide to Aerodynamics" by H.C. 'Skip' Smith page 75 is a list of ten gen av planes with equivalent flat plate areas. Piper Traumahawk at 6.64, Bonanza at 3.47 and Mooney 201 at 2.81. I recall P51 Mustang as better than any of these but can't find reference. hal >In a message dated 10/21/99 3:49:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil writes: > ><< Does anyone have a number for the effective flat plate area for the RV-4? > An article or ??? that may have produced such a number? Its a matter of > curiosity for someone Ive been having a bench flying session with. >> Gary Vanremogel answered: >FWIW, in the RV6A CAFE article presented in the 09/93 Sport Aviation, they >listed the flat plate area as 2.32 ft 2. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/partsproblems
Kevin... I agree but how does one know what Van's has planned. Maybe a few subtle hints from Jeremy would go a long way toward keeping us from re-inventing the wheel. What about it Jeremy......not to let any cats out of the bag but it is about time we knew what to expect from Van's. I have been waiting to get the new catalog for 6 months so I could fill my panel (amonst other things). Nothing yet. I really hate to spend my money somewhere else because I really would like to support Van's if I can. However, time is getting short. Gary Palinkas Parma, Ohio RV6 QB <<< >Good idea, but in a way, you're sort of replicating in part a major effort >that's expected to be available Nov 15 on the web.>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Hi Chet, I subscribe to a service that you can peruse at: http://www.weatherconcepts.com This site has excellent graphical representation of winds aloft at 5000, 10000, and 18000 ft. as well as many other informative displays. Best wishes, Jack Abell Los Angeles RV-6A N333JA Finishing chester razer wrote: > > Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds > aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather > channel or duats. > > chet > > Matronics: http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list > Archive Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives > Other Email Lists: http://www.matronics.com/other ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless screws in fuel tank
Being as you admit being borderline anal, aren't you concerned about specs being for "dry torque"? Did you do this for instrument screws too? hal :-) >Anytime any screw of anytype goes into any threaded receiver......(not during >assembly/fitup with the many ins & outs of screws....) but during the >last ( HA >) securing of the screw I grab a pipe cleaner, dunk in some thick oil and >push >in the threaded receiver ( nutplate.......) During annuals & maintenance I do >the same thing....border- line anal retentive but helpful nonetheless... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent)
Subject: RV-6A QB end wing rib
I finished the first section of the QB manual - the fuselage - and turned to the wings. I have 2 questions. First, the manual says I have to build the end wing rib, but a factory built one is obviously already clecoed into the wing. What's going on there? Second, what's the best way to rivet those end ribs to the front spar? My rivet gun, even with the offset rivet set doesn't look like it can get in to a good position. The 1/8" rivets are close enough to the web that the gun will at best be held at an significant angle to the rivet which is very likely to make the rivet cleat. --- Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: ANR -- what's all the fuss?
I think that the abscence of low frequency noise makes the high frequency noise more apparent to the wearer. There is also a slight boosting of some high frequencies due to the physics of the analog system. I like my 20K's a lot and find I am not tired and my ears suffer no numbing after using them all day. As to getting dizzy--?????? I have not an idea. As to not being able to hear the engine--I can actually hear the engine better without all the low frequency drumming that many mistake for engine sounds. No need for a flame war--each to their own. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Date: Oct 24, 1999
If you are an AOPA member, they have a flight plan option on their website..you put in your airplane's specs one time, then just configure flights with winds aloft info. It will tell you how your airplane will perform on each leg, groundspeeds, magnetic heading, etc.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 12:30 PM Subject: RV-List: Winds Aloft > >Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds >aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather >channel or duats. > >chet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: First FLight
Date: Oct 24, 1999
> RV6 24049 Registration C-GFLG based at Brampton Ontario made a > successful first flight today. > > Four years two months from starting the tail kit. > > > > Empty weight without paint 1019 lbs. Aymar-Demuth 68x74 wood prop. > > Regards Peter Burrowes (Toronto Canada) > > Congratulations, Peter Good to see another RV lift into the air. Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered do not archieve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLARV8N(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: New RV-8 Rudder on a RV-4
In a message dated 10/24/99 7:58:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes: << I noticed that the new RV-8's will be shipping with a larger rudder for "added >stabilility". I would like to do this to my RV-4 also. Would Van's have a >problem with me putting an RV-8 Rudder on my 4? > I think you are the guy who would have the problem, because I doubt that it would fit. Van increased the height of the VS on the RV-8 slightly (I think), and put a mass balance on the rudder (like on the elevators). I just measured the height on my rudder. It is 51 3/16 from the bottom of the rudder to the bottom of the mass balance. Van had to make these changes because of the increased side area of the RV-8 canopy, and it is designed to take a bit more power. Your RV-4 should be just fine with the rudder you've got, unless you put an RV-8 canopy on your RV-4, and stuff in a 200 hp IO-360, in which case you might want the RV-8 rudder. >> Jason, Your RV-8 rudder will work well on your "-4" as long as you intend to use the RV-8 vert as well, which I think is what you meant. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A QB end wing rib
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Tom: I believe you can just push the rib out of the way a little. It will spring back. Pat Hatch RV-4 N17PH @ INT RV-6 Wing ----- Original Message ----- From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 12:39 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB end wing rib > > I finished the first section of the QB manual - the fuselage - and > turned to the wings. I have 2 questions. > > First, the manual says I have to build the end wing rib, but a > factory built one is obviously already clecoed into the wing. What's going > on there? > > Second, what's the best way to rivet those end ribs to the front > spar? My rivet gun, even with the offset rivet set doesn't look like it > can get in to a good position. The 1/8" rivets are close enough to the web > that the gun will at best be held at an significant angle to the rivet > which is very likely to make the rivet cleat. > > --- > Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: RV Builders Sites
We've put up a new feature on our Home Page. It will list an RV builder's site. The first site we are featuring is Bob Haan's of Oregon. He's building an RV-6A. His site has a panoramic view from the seat of the plane which allows the viewer to turn 360 degrees. You can find the link near the top of our Home page @ AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Also if you have other builder sites you'd care to submit to be featured, please do so. Sq.John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry E James" <larryj(at)oz.net>
Subject: wing skins
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Hi !!! I think this kind of idea and question is a good one, and would think that this list would be a good place to kick it around. "Half the rivets might equate to half the strength" is just the point ..... *might* is the key word. Incorporating a joggle here does not necessarily force a single row of rivets; one could joggle the main skin and give it three rows of rivets. As far as changing the airfoil, my wing doesn't even come close to the template supplied in the shipping crate .... giving rise to question the ultimate utility of adhering to the theoretical airfoil (and I used all Van's parts: spars, ribs and skins !!). I believe there are aircraft out there that do use a joggle and single row of rivets here .... anyone know what the underlying structure is ?? I know that this main wing skin / leading edge skin butt joint is my worst skin joint so far; and would love to figure out a better way to do it. It seems to me that, as good as the RV family of aircraft are, there is still room for improvement. I could understand Van not wanting to participate in these variations given our propensity for litigation. But I also recall that Van's first RV-? was a modified something else ..... telling me that this is a natural design progression. Yes, we have to be careful in our decisions, and build to our own comfort and competence level. I think this list could use a bit more tolerance for builders not quite falling into the "insert tab A into hole A" category. I consider these Experimental Aircraft, and as such, we have the opportunity to embark on changes from "standard". It seems to me that persons at both extremes of this continuum have a place in and value to the List. End of soap box. Larry E James Bellevue, WA larryj(at)oz.net > This kind of idea should be put into writing/drawing and sent to Van. It is > an engineering change. Half the amount of rivets might equate to half the > strength. Please document these types of changes in your construction log so > that future buyers of the airplane will be aware that the wing is not the > same as the thousands of other RV wings out there. Resale value of an > airplane modified like this is likely to be substantially lower than market. > > I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing > > skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to > > use only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt joint > > using two rows of rivets. It might require some thought and planning in > > the fuel tank area. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A QB end wing rib
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Yeah, I built mine and found out that Van's was kind enough to include the rib...wasted some good aluminum! My gun with the offset set worked fine on the rivets against the spar. The spring on the gun penetrated into the lightening hole, as opposed to the gun sitting inboard with the offset rivet set. BTW, if you have not pounded out the other ribs and bulkheads in the manual, don't. Buy them from Vans..you will be much happier with your end results. Lets just say that I will be building another rudder, because I made my own ribs. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 4:41 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB end wing rib > > I finished the first section of the QB manual - the fuselage - and >turned to the wings. I have 2 questions. > > First, the manual says I have to build the end wing rib, but a >factory built one is obviously already clecoed into the wing. What's going >on there? > > Second, what's the best way to rivet those end ribs to the front >spar? My rivet gun, even with the offset rivet set doesn't look like it >can get in to a good position. The 1/8" rivets are close enough to the web >that the gun will at best be held at an significant angle to the rivet >which is very likely to make the rivet cleat. > >--- >Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Howard Walrath" <H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Documenting Registration Number Change for RV-6A
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Listers, I am looking for some advice from someone (particularily our members of the Friendly Aviation Administration) regarding what needs to be done to effect a change to a special registration number in a flying RV-6A (2 years, 140 hours). I paid the fee, reserved the Special Registration Number, received the Confirmation of Reservation (AC Form 8050-110). I have submitted a letter requesting permission to affix the Special Registration Number to my RV-6A and attached copies of the Confirmation and my Certificate Of Registration. It is being processed at OKC and I expect to receive back AC Form 8050-64 (Assignment of Special Registration Numbers) authorizing the new numbers to be placed on the airplane. My questions are related to what else I need to do with the other FAA documentation??? Specifically: I presume that when I return the form stating that the new numbers have been affixed to the aircraft, the FAA will send me a new CERTIFICATE OF AIRCRAFT REGISTRATION AC Form 8050-3(8/97) with the new "N" number on it, without me having to submit anything. Correct ???? Since the SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE (FAA form 8130-7) shows the old "N" number in section D, I presume it must be changed too. Is this done by the local FSDO office, Oklahoma City, or how? By mail or does it have to be in person? Finally, the SPECIAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS document issued by the original DAR for Phase I and Phase II (issued in 1997 and long since complied with) contains the old "N" number as well as Make, Model and Serial Number. Does it need to be reissued or is it still valid if the documents authorizing the registration number are attached and carried in the aircraft? If it needs to be revised to show the new REG. NO.:, must that be the originating DAR (a thousand miles from here) or can another DAR here locally make me a new one with REG. NO.: the only revision? Guys and gals, I would sincerely appreciate any information & personal knowledge you may have. Thanks in advance Howard Walrath H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net 940-321-5758 or 940-321-5014 (Fax) RV-6A Flying 140 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Panel Design
Date: Oct 24, 1999
I'm considering about forty different panel designs but have a question to ask about one of them. This one has three sections. The radio stack would be right down the center with separate removable sections on either side for everything else. The left section would be the primary flight instruments and I was wondering how much lower than a stock panel would this section be if it had a triple stack tall of 3 1/8 gauges. Does any one care to take a guess? Thank-you, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Log Books
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Do not remove the data tag off your engine!!!!!! What you want to do is a entry like this: NXXXRV 10-24-1999 Total Time: 000.00 TSMOH: 0000.00 Explain what work has been accomplished on the engine i.e. installed new bearings, crank ground.... Now explain the mods to the engine i.e. installed lycon 400hp pistons P/N 222222... John Doe Pilot # 23456778 Sign name ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stencils
--- Jim Sears wrote: > > > >>I have heard that planes at Oshkosh are ineligible > for awards if the > >>paint job uses any vinyl graphics -- Where did you hear this info? I have worked aircraft Judging at a local fly-in for the last 10 years. We use the Aircraft Judging Guidelines published by EAA HQ Oshkosh that were published a few years back. They have no reference to vinyl graphics or registration numbers that are not painted being ineligible nor are points deducted for using them. I know that Werner Berry, to name one person who has won an award at Oshkosh, has a VINYL overlay on his Instrument panel. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Electrical Wiring? Tach problems
Initial run of 0320H2AD with the big single drive mag. I have the P lead on RH mag terminal...connected to the 2 1/4 inch tach Van's sells. (sorry I can't find any of the info for model # here at home...) As they are close to one another....I connected in the dash area to the Key switch screw down lug for the P lead to mag and to the wire input to gage. ACS OFF/RH/LH/BOTH/Start .....Key switch wiring diagram looks to have all connections Normally open in running mode? So single inpules/input from mag should be OK? But it looks to be reading double? While cranking on B&C starter, no plugs in to pre lube it read 1000 ish. During running it looked to be double. I don't remember the other wires exactly but I think it had 3..so 1 was ground and other?? I'm gonna have to dig into and refresh memory..been a while... Any ideas as I attempt to tear the gage out of the dash and trace wiring? Thanks David McManmon Cicero, NY Shooting for NOV...First flight!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Suction problems, VAC pump? Regulator setting?
Initial start of used engine with used suction pump and vac regulator. I got on suction reading at idle. I did get the 4-5 vac reading while running up 1300+ rpm. I will go under dash and play with regulator .... But theory please: If regulator regulates an inch set point, then if idle doesn''t pull right amount..if I get it to pull right amount at idle won't it be way off at high rpm...? So is pump bad? I guess I need some trouble shooting advise here too.. Thanks David McManmon, Cicero NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Baffle Airseal
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Listers, Searched the archives on this but couldn't find it... I'm having trouble figuring out how to seal the rear baffle using the airseal material, specifically the two 90 deg. bends behind cylinder #4. The instructions are vague and state this may be a difficult area, and experimentation is advised. I've cut out quite a few paper patterns experimenting, just not the right one . Any ideas most welcome, drawings/photos especially. Maybe we can get this up on somebody's web site? Thanks, Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle Airseal
Date: Oct 24, 1999
>From: "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Baffle Airseal >Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 17:01:30 -0700 > > >Listers, > >Searched the archives on this but couldn't find it... > >I'm having trouble figuring out how to seal the rear baffle using the >airseal material, specifically the two 90 deg. bends behind cylinder #4. > >The instructions are vague and state this may be a difficult area, and >experimentation is advised. I've cut out quite a few paper patterns >experimenting, just not the right one . > >Any ideas most welcome, drawings/photos especially. Maybe we can get this >up on somebody's web site? > >Thanks, Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...) Rob, I solved the problem in that area by making the corners of the seals extend out, or, towards each other, at 45 degrees. If you can imagine the shape of Gumby's head, then that's about it! When the pieces are folded forward when the cowl is on, they overlap each other and seal the corner. This applies only to the "outside" type corner at the baffle corner just above the #4 cylinder head to barrel junction. Egads, this is hard to explain! The pics on my webpage were taken too far away from the engine to be of much use, I'm afraid. All the other "inside" corners aren't a problem, just cut the baffle corners at 90 degrees and they will overlap nicely with the cowl down tight. Hang in there, you'll figure it out. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle Airseal
Rob I made a rextangular rib to fit into that little joggle at the left side of the rear baffle. Now the baffle material can extend in a straight line from side to side. Dave Fried >I'm having trouble figuring out how to seal the rear baffle using the >airseal material, specifically the two 90 deg. bends behind cylinder #4. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Beware AC$ Stencils
One way to minimize the possibility of the stencil bleeding is to blow a light coat of the base color around the edges (i.e. white) before painting the final color coat. The base color coat might bleed but seals the stencil. It is less noticable than the color since it matches the base. This was passed along by an RV4 builder at Oshkosh this year. He may be lurking out there. Tom Brown RV4 fiberglass RV4brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CAPR13(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Oops! Securing Vetterman's exhaust
I have 0-360A1A at 180 hrs and have had two adel type clamps fail and one SS elbow fail, which is part of the spreader bar, on the Vetterman's mount. If this continues I will be changing something. Ron Vandervort, RV-6 N84N Seattle area...on round the USA flight...reporting in from Myrtle Beach S.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: RV-6A QB end wing rib
Paul Besing wrote: My gun with the offset set worked fine on the rivets against the spar. The spring on the gun penetrated into the lightening hole, as opposed to the gun sitting inboard with the offset rivet set. Mark Phillips adds: I removed the spring from the gun and wrapped 3-4 layers of duct tape to hold the offset rivet set in the nose of the gun- you get a much better angle, worked great for me, Y.M.M.V. but I got 7 good rivets like this (don't ask me to show the ones I did before I thought of this!) From the PossumWorks Mark... "duct tape: one side's light and the other side's dark; it's the force that holds the universe together!" - > -----Original Message----- > From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 4:41 PM > Subject: RV-List: RV-6A QB end wing rib > > > > > I finished the first section of the QB manual - the fuselage - and > >turned to the wings. I have 2 questions. > > > > First, the manual says I have to build the end wing rib, but a > >factory built one is obviously already clecoed into the wing. What's going > >on there? > > > > Second, what's the best way to rivet those end ribs to the front > >spar? My rivet gun, even with the offset rivet set doesn't look like it > >can get in to a good position. The 1/8" rivets are close enough to the web > >that the gun will at best be held at an significant angle to the rivet > >which is very likely to make the rivet cleat. > > > >--- > >Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 24, 1999
FAR43 is clear on logbook entries: a complete discription of work performed. Even though part 43 is not our realm it is a good guide. I would make a entry similar to the following- Overhauled engine IAW manufacturers manual ( list it) with the following deviations. (list ALL deviations). (Then list all parts used and P/N S/N as well as new or the limits they had.) The engine may not be certified now but if you list all the mods it can make it possible to return the engine or parts of it to it's original condition. This is important if you sell it. About the prop, I am not clear if you mean the engine was not designed for it or that the prop was not legally rebuilt. Either way I would make another entry showing this prop installed and the condition and status of it as well. This will protect you since it is not illegal to run mods on experimental acft but we need to document the fact or risk questions later. RV4 flying, A&P-IA, FAA safety counselor -----Original Message----- From: Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> Date: Saturday, October 23, 1999 7:19 AM Subject: RV-List: Log entries? > > Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled engine >that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by >an prop overhaul shop employee? > I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts crossed and >the dots in the right places. > > >Have a great Day! >Denny Harjehausen >Lebanon, OR >RV-6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Documenting Registration Number Change for RV-6A
Date: Oct 24, 1999
The easiest way to be sure is contact your local FAA FSDO. You will have a few forms to fill to complete youre process but it's no big deal. A call to EAA or AOPA can help as well. We do N# changes in my office alot so if you have problems contact me direct here or at work at bnoel(at)omniflight.com and I will try to help. -----Original Message----- From: Howard Walrath <H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:16 PM Subject: RV-List: Documenting Registration Number Change for RV-6A > >Listers, I am looking for some advice from someone >(particularily our members of the Friendly Aviation >Administration) regarding what needs to be done >to effect a change to a special registration number >in a flying RV-6A (2 years, 140 hours). I paid the fee, >reserved the Special Registration Number, received >the Confirmation of Reservation (AC Form 8050-110). > >I have submitted a letter requesting permission to affix >the Special Registration Number to my RV-6A and >attached copies of the Confirmation and my Certificate >Of Registration. It is being processed at OKC and I >expect to receive back AC Form 8050-64 (Assignment >of Special Registration Numbers) authorizing the new >numbers to be placed on the airplane. > >My questions are related to what else I need to do with >the other FAA documentation??? > >Specifically: > >I presume that when I return the form stating that the new >numbers have been affixed to the aircraft, the FAA will >send me a new CERTIFICATE OF AIRCRAFT REGISTRATION >AC Form 8050-3(8/97) with the new "N" number on it, without >me having to submit anything. Correct ???? > >Since the SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE >(FAA form 8130-7) shows the old "N" number in section D, >I presume it must be changed too. Is this done by the local >FSDO office, Oklahoma City, or how? By mail or does it >have to be in person? > >Finally, the SPECIAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS document >issued by the original DAR for Phase I and Phase II (issued in >1997 and long since complied with) contains the old "N" number >as well as Make, Model and Serial Number. Does it need to >be reissued or is it still valid if the documents authorizing the >registration number are attached and carried in the aircraft? > >If it needs to be revised to show the new REG. NO.:, must that >be the originating DAR (a thousand miles from here) or can >another DAR here locally make me a new one with REG. NO.: >the only revision? > >Guys and gals, I would sincerely appreciate any information & >personal knowledge you may have. Thanks in advance > >Howard Walrath >H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net >940-321-5758 or 940-321-5014 (Fax) > >RV-6A Flying 140 hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob dz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Winds Aloft
Date: Oct 24, 1999
The AOPA Memebers Section has excellent weather graphics (DTN), I use it almost daily. Bob Dz RV-6A Tail kit -----Original Message----- From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 7:31 AM Subject: RV-List: Winds Aloft > >Will someone post a URL for a site that has a good graphical "winds >aloft" pict for 5k and 10k altitudes. A site other that the weather >channel or duats. > >chet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Pop Rivet problems
Listers, I'm trying to set MK319-BS monel pop rivets in the trailing edge of my rudder stiffeners. The stems keep breaking off so that they rattle around inside the rivet or come out the backside altogether leaving a hole in the middle. I'm using a pneumatic pop rivet puller. Have tried various air pressure settings. Surely, it isn't normal for these rivets to have loose stems like this. Should I shelf the pneumatic puller and buy a hand operated unit? Thanks. Troy Black -8 @#$% rudder stiffeners ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CAPR13(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Enroute Assistance........yeilded quick drain leak.
Eureka....!! With the help of Harvey in Delaware my enroute oil leak has been stopped. A noteworthy bit to pass on to all "quickdrainers"; We found the quick drain to be the culprit. It did not leak during three ground runups but would leak a quart in a two hr. flight. The o-seal did not look like it should be contributing to a leak. I have suspicions that it might have been related to o-seal deteriation with high temp exposure near exhaust muff over time, as the leak increased as time went on. Reinserting the crankcase plug solved the problem. Ron Vandervort, RV-6 180 hrs Seattle area...reporting in from Myrtle Beach S.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet problems
Date: Oct 24, 1999
> Listers, I'm trying to set MK319-BS monel pop rivets in the trailing edge of > my rudder stiffeners. The stems keep breaking off so that they rattle around > inside the rivet or come out the backside altogether leaving a hole in the > middle. I'm using a pneumatic pop rivet puller. Have tried various air > pressure settings. Surely, it isn't normal for these rivets to have loose > stems like this. Should I shelf the pneumatic puller and buy a hand operated > unit? Thanks. > > Troy Black > -8 @#$% rudder stiffeners It's a little early for that kind of language, unless you're practicing for the gear boxes :-) As for the MK319-BS rivets, it sounds about normal actually. I'm not quite sure what you mean about "rattle around inside the rivet". Sometimes the end of the stem stays in the rivet, and sometimes it doesn't. I'm often tempted to punch out the stem just to keep it from coming out later, but I don't. I doubt the pneumatic rivet puller has anything to do with it. My experience with a Kolb SlingShot I build was that the pneumatic puller does a superior job to the hand version. However, you'll run across rivets that you won't be able to reach with the pneumatic puller (like the Z brackets on the fuel tank baffles) so you might as well buy a manual one anyway. You can try a few rivets to see if it improves your situation, but I doubt it will. Good luck, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (front baggage door) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A QB end wing rib
> Second, what's the best way to rivet those end ribs to the front > spar? My rivet gun, even with the offset rivet set doesn't look like it > can get in to a good position. The 1/8" rivets are close enough to the web > that the gun will at best be held at an significant angle to the rivet > which is very likely to make the rivet cleat. > > --- > Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com Tom, try grinding a flat area on the side of the rivet set to allow it to sit squarely on the shop head. These are sold by Avery and others, but you can modify yours. Andy Johnson, -8 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Baffle Airseal
Rob Acker wrote: > > Listers, > > Searched the archives on this but couldn't find it... > > I'm having trouble figuring out how to seal the rear baffle using the > airseal material, specifically the two 90 deg. bends behind cylinder #4. > > The instructions are vague and state this may be a difficult area, and > experimentation is advised. I've cut out quite a few paper patterns > experimenting, just not the right one . > > Any ideas most welcome, drawings/photos especially. Maybe we can get this > up on somebody's web site? > > Thanks, Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...) > Rob, I just put a little bridge of aluminum across the offending section. Gives you a nice straight run with the rear baffle seal to the side and looks neat. Seal the gaps with a little red RTV. Leo Davies RV6A 6 hours and growing. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Design
Norman, On my 6A slider I would need 1.25" more room to get 3 high. My instruments have 1/2" between hole edges. This would leave no room under the bottom instrument and has 3/4" above the artificial horizon. Gary Zilik Norman Hunger wrote: > > I'm considering about forty different panel designs but have a question to > ask about one of them. This one has three sections. The radio stack would be > right down the center with separate removable sections on either side for > everything else. The left section would be the primary flight instruments > and I was wondering how much lower than a stock panel would this section be > if it had a triple stack tall of 3 1/8 gauges. Does any one care to take a > guess? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV6A For Sale
Anyone interested in buying my RV6A Project give me a call at 318-221-3503 or E-Mail me at jerrydd(at)earthlink.net. Wings, Empennage,Fuselage and most of Finishing Kit is complete. 0 SMOH 0-360 A1A Lycoming Engine and 0 SMOH McCauley Constant Speed Prop. New Vetterman Exhaust, Overhauled Govenor, Rocky Mountain Micro-Monitor, New vacuum pump, New Skytech starter, New Instruments, Vans Wiring Kit, New Fuel Pumps Mechanical and Electric, Carb and Mags, ETC... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix
Date: Oct 24, 1999
I have just finished drilling my engine mount to the firewall on my RV-4. I had previously drilled 3/16 dia. undersize holes to attach it to the jig. When I first fit the engine mount I could see the holes did not line up perfectly with the mount, but it appeared that they would clean up if I used the mount as my drill guide. After finishing the drilling and removing the mount, much to my dismay I found that one of the holes did not clean up fully. About 1/8 of the 3/16 dia. hole is left. The offending hole is on the bottom right side of the fuselage. Anybody else have this problem? Any ideas on how to fix this? Is it really a problem? I have thought about trying to weld a reinforcing doubler to the steel weldment and redrilling, but it would be very difficult to weld down there. I thought about cutting off the 3/8 ID tube on the mount, welding in a 7/16 but I don't know how these bolts are loaded. What really makes me mad is that this is the first mistake I've made in 5 years of building (if you believe that I've got a BD-5 kit I'd like to sell you). Thanks in advance, Ted ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Question
> >In a message dated 10/22/99 4:29:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes: > ><< I doubt I'm the only one with this follow-up question... > > Why is an avionics master switch outdated? >> > >IMO Bob should have prefaced that comment with "IMO", because it is by no >means a certainty. I know that Bob has what he considers to be good and >valid reasons for believing that the Avionics Master is outdated, but even >smart people of good conscience don't always draw the same conclusions from >what they perceive the facts to be. > >-GV Given what I know about why the avionics master switch was perceived to be a good thing to do (I was an electrical/ avionics tech writer at the Cessna single engine facility from 1964 to 1969 where we birthed the thing); and having been involved in the certification of dozens of products that attach to aircraft electrical supply busses; and having observered the evolution of electronics systems capabilities over the past 30 years, I think the statement is a tad stronger than an singular opinion. Neither I nor any of my collegues has ever designed a product for use in ANY airplane that requires pilot intervention to hold the wiley electro dragons at bay in the defense of our products. I'm talking some pretty sensitive, microprocessor based hardware here too . . . We hook 'em up and they play. The avionics master switch was conceived in good faith but like the carburetor, points in the distributor, relays in the regulators and vacuum tubes in the radios, the avionics master switch no longer provides a useful function while driving parts count up and reliability down. Of course, the alternate feed path mitigates the reliability factor for an avionics master so by all means, if you have the panel space and want to have one, it's not an issue with respect to probable outcome of any given flight. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aviation Trust Fund Support
From: "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Details of bill AIR-21 (Aviation Investment and Reform Act for the 21st Century) that unlocks the Aviation Trust fund can be found at http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/1999/991021trust.html. Billions of dollars that we pay in as fuel taxes and passenger ticket taxes sit unused in the fund. The bill comes up for discussion in the Senate on Monday, October 25th. Call or fax your Senator TODAY and tell them to support AIR-21! Senate Switchboard: 202-224-3121 Senator Fax numbers: http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/faxnos.html Comprehensive history of AIR-21: http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/caphill.html > >Congress has made great strides in getting the Aviation Trust Fund >legislation passed. The Senate now has to act and that action is >expected this week, with many conferences going on between the Congress and the >Senate....... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 0320 carburetor
I'm looking for a new or slightly used MA4SPA carburetor. Please contact me off-list. Thanks, Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: lightspeed 25X
I was feeling guilty about those croos country trips where my wife got stuck with the $80 Flightcom headsets and recently bought a Lightspeed 25X set. I had been impressed with them at SNF, testing them in their demo "egg" booth. When I flew with the in my -6A however they seemed overly sensitive, the speakers distorted at about half volume, and they had a constant hiss to them. Lightspeed, here in Portland, gladly refunded my money and let me try the 20K's. These seem to work well, the mic volume better matches the headset volume. I have to admit though the $155 upgrade-your-existing-Dave-Clark ANR that I installed in my headset 2 years ago are just about as good. I do think ANR's are the way to go rather than attempting to soundproof the cabin. kevin -6A 450+ hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Baffle Airseal
Date: Oct 24, 1999
I just cut the sides longer so that it overlapped the other side, and folded one over the other, and secured with a pop rivet and washer. On the oil cooler side,. I cut the baffle seal from the top of the seal down to the baffle, bent them in, and had to put a small piece of material inside the folds to make a good seal. This probably doesn't make much sense, but it was just a head scratching trial and error job that took the better part of one evening. I have been uploading a few baffle images, I'll try to get them finished up in a couple of days. In the meantime, check out: http://members.home.net/rv8er/engine.htm It has one picture of one corner...I am waiting to repaint a screw up on the other side, when I paint it in the next couple of days, I will re install the baffle material and post pics of that. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Rob Acker <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 11:08 PM Subject: RV-List: Baffle Airseal > >Listers, > >Searched the archives on this but couldn't find it... > >I'm having trouble figuring out how to seal the rear baffle using the >airseal material, specifically the two 90 deg. bends behind cylinder #4. > >The instructions are vague and state this may be a difficult area, and >experimentation is advised. I've cut out quite a few paper patterns >experimenting, just not the right one . > >Any ideas most welcome, drawings/photos especially. Maybe we can get this >up on somebody's web site? > >Thanks, Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Question
> > > > > > --> grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes: > > > > > > I doubt I'm the only one with this follow-up question... > > > > > > Why is an avionics master switch outdated? > > > > > >IMO Bob should have prefaced that comment with "IMO", because it is > >by no > >means a certainty. I know that Bob has what he considers to be good > >and > >valid reasons for believing that the Avionics Master is outdated, > >but even smart people of good conscience don't always draw the same > >conclusions from what they perceive the facts to be. > > The avionics master switch was conceived in good faith > but like the carburetor, points in the distributor, > relays in the regulators and vacuum tubes in the radios, > the avionics master switch no longer provides a > useful function while driving parts count up and reliability > down. Let's cut to the chase, here, gentlemen. We sound like a bunch of politicians! A lot of of words, no information! :) 1) Why was the avonics master "conceived in good faith?" 2) Does or can engine start cause voltage spikes on a power bus? 3) Do modern (1980's, 1990's) avionics provide sufficient power input filtering to trap (caps) or shunt such spikes? Inquiring minds have an idea, but still want to know! :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet problems
>Should I shelf the pneumatic puller and buy a hand operated > > unit? Thanks. >> > > > Troy Black > >However, >you'll run across rivets that you won't be able to reach with the >pneumatic puller (like the Z >brackets on the fuel tank baffles) so you might as well buy a manual >one anyway. You can try a few >rivets to see if it improves your situation, but I doubt it will. > One thing to keep in mind if you do buy a manual pop rivet puller now - it will need to be able to reach rivets very close to a corner to do the Z-brackets. My pop rivet puller wouldn't reach, and I was ready to pull my hair out when I found a small pop rivet puller in my wife's pile of tools. Even then I had to grind it down some to get it to fit. If you do grind one down, you might want to wear safety glasses when using it. My wife's eventually exploded on me, and I had to do an emergency battle damage repair on it. Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Question
> >> > > > The avionics master switch was conceived in good faith >> but like the carburetor, points in the distributor, >> relays in the regulators and vacuum tubes in the radios, >> the avionics master switch no longer provides a >> useful function while driving parts count up and reliability >> down. > >Let's cut to the chase, here, gentlemen. We sound like a bunch of >politicians! A lot of of words, no information! >:) > >1) Why was the avonics master "conceived in good faith?" > >2) Does or can engine start cause voltage spikes on a power bus? > >3) Do modern (1980's, 1990's) avionics provide sufficient power input > filtering to trap (caps) or shunt such spikes? > >Inquiring minds have an idea, but still want to know! >:) > >Mike Thompson Mike, Surf over to the Bob's list of articles and info at http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles.html and read the one on avionics master switches. It should answer your questions. Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: "Lemen, Ted Ce" <ted.ce.lemen(at)lmco.com>
Subject: Joggle
Larry, the stress on the rivets is the same as if you had two rows. The main difference is that the two skins are pulling or pushing against each other and what ever is left over goes into the spar, wheras with the two rows, all loads go into the spar and and the tension or compression that is left over transfers from one skin to the other through the spar. Draw a cross section of the single row rivet and I think it becomes more clear. Ted Lemen Denver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:42:35.-0400(at)matronics.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Buffers
Hi Kyle, If you have a dual action sander (harbor freight $30) you can get a sponge attachment at your local paint store that does a great job. What I have always done is wet sand with 1500 grit until you get a uniform chalky appearance then use the sponge buffer and LOTS of 3M finessing compound. I soup it on then buff till completely gone. I think the sponge is a little more forgiving than a polishing bonnet. If it looks like what you are doing is always going to yield a little orange peel, then plan for an additional light coat so you don't get light spots. At least this is what I learned from beating my head against the paint wall. Eric Henson Fuse Stuff KBoatri144(at)aol.com on 10/23/99 02:13:19 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Buffers I'm into the painting process, and it turns out that I've got some defective paint - it has orange peel in it! (Or maybe it was the oaf running the spray gun...?) Anyway, I'm looking for a buffer. Anyone have experience with the $50 units sold at auto parts stores, home improvement stores, etc? Will this type unit be OK for some moderate buffing? If not, please provide some suggestions for a reasonably priced unit which would work. And, yeah, I could probably borrow one, but this is a great excuse to buy another tool. Thanks, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Question
>>1) Why was the avonics master "conceived in good faith?" >> Cause every once in awhile, when a hoard of pilots arrived on the field at Cessna to take delivery of a gaggle of new airplanes, the piece of crap batteries we were able to buy back then were dying or dead. Radios of the time contained the earliest examples of solid state technologies . . . GERMANIUM transistors with 30 volt not to exceed ratings and "second breakdown" (a merit of vulnerability under certain operating conditions) characteristics that would poof a transistor in a few microseconds. RTCA (Radio Technical Commission on Aeronautics) barely knew what transistors were much less how they might be at-risk in a piece of avionics. Vacuum tubes were king. >>2) Does or can engine start cause voltage spikes on a power bus? >> Yes. >>3) Do modern (1980's, 1990's) avionics provide sufficient power input >> filtering to trap (caps) or shunt such spikes? YES! Over the past 20 years, an RTCA specification (DO-160) has been through 4 major revisions. The document outlines about 27 environmental stresses to which a wouldbe producer of electronics for aircraft should design for if they expect their products to survive in the real world. Building firewalls for electrical stresses (the kind that the Avionics Master can deal with) is child's play. It adds a very few dollars worth of components to the design. Heat and moisture are the biggest killers of electro-goodies to this day. I visited Electro-Mech a few days ago . . . used to work there 20 years ago. Picked up a product I'd designed for the Learjets back about 1982 . . . pitch trim controller. I asked the technicians what kinds of failures they were finding on returned units. Of the three guys I talked to, not one had replaced a popped semiconductor . . . virtually all failures were mechanical. Corrosion, insulation displacement connectors that had become intermittant, fasteners that were loose and a handfull of random failures in components unrelated to any environmental stress. This device, an many of it's cousins of the time, are tied right to the bus during engine cranking (1000 amp inrush starters) and bus bumps during generator initialization (2 generators of 600 amps each side) and lots of contactors going on and off . . . scarry compared to our single engine boogity- boogities. I'm working on three new, bus powered products for single engine airplanes including the AGATE program. Bus gremlins are so far down on the list of things to worry about, they aren't even on the radar screen. I've not had a product fail in certification testing from bus induced stresses since I learned how to do it 20 years ago. My personal experience with rentals of dozens of airplanes recalls many instances where the avionics master switch was left on during shutdown . . . I have to presume that like all checklist items on airplanes not regularly flown by a multiplicity of pilots, some things get missed from time to time. I've never had a radio come up dead after engine start. As a further reinforcement to the "what, me worry?" attitude, consider all the electro goodies on the modern automobile . . . these aren't even high-tech, supper qualified products certified for aircraft . . . they get hit with whatever the bus throws at them severals times each day . . . far greater service cycles than any airplane. Drivers are not asked to "protect" any of those things from things that go spark in the night . . . Have the switch if you desire the convenience but back it up with the alternate feed path that allows you to shed main bus loads -AND- the battery contactor. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet problems
Date: Oct 25, 1999
> >Listers, I'm trying to set MK319-BS monel pop rivets in the trailing edge of >my rudder stiffeners. The stems keep breaking off so that they rattle around >inside the rivet or come out the backside altogether leaving a hole in the >middle. I'm using a pneumatic pop rivet puller. Have tried various air >pressure settings. Surely, it isn't normal for these rivets to have loose >stems like this. Should I shelf the pneumatic puller and buy a hand operated >unit? Thanks. > >Troy Black >-8 @#$% rudder stiffeners > > What size hole are you drilling? I think I recall they call for a 7/64" bit. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA http://members.home.net/ammeterj/ 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GSTRV8(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Aerobatic Propeller
I have a like new Aerobatic Counterweight Propeller for sale. If interested, please contact me @ "gilthe1(at)aol.com". Gil. 80628 almost ready for paint ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Ted, I went through this with my -6A. Tom at Vans explained that the firewall bolts are compression joints, meaning the size of the hole is not critical. Check the archives on this. He used the example of changing engine mounts, in which you would likely have to open the holes up to get a new mount to align. Tom said just to line it up as best you can and drill away. He specifically said that no repair plates are necessary. Chris Browne -6A finish Atlanta -----Original Message----- From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump(at)mediaone.net> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 12:14 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix > > I have just finished drilling my engine mount to the firewall on my >RV-4. I had previously drilled 3/16 dia. undersize holes to attach it to >the jig. When I first fit the engine mount I could see the holes did not >line up perfectly with the mount, but it appeared that they would clean up >if I used the mount as my drill guide. After finishing the drilling and >removing the mount, much to my dismay I found that one of the holes did not >clean up fully. About 1/8 of the 3/16 dia. hole is left. The offending >hole is on the bottom right side of the fuselage. > Anybody else have this problem? Any ideas on how to fix this? Is it >really a problem? > I have thought about trying to weld a reinforcing doubler to the steel >weldment and redrilling, but it would be very difficult to weld down there. >I thought about cutting off the 3/8 ID tube on the mount, welding in a 7/16 >but I don't know how these bolts are loaded. > What really makes me mad is that this is the first mistake I've made in >5 years of building (if you believe that I've got a BD-5 kit I'd like to >sell you). > >Thanks in advance, > >Ted > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: scott gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Enroute Assistance........yeilded quick drain leak.
Ron, Whose quickdrain was it that leaked? There are several manufacturers out there. Has anyone else on the list had a similar problem? I have a quickdrain from Van's that has not leaked so far (just put it on 50 hours ago). Take care, Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: King Radio
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Well this is going to be a shocker for you. I bought a used KX155 w KI209 with no manual/harness. I was rolling my own so I contacted Bendix-King for a manual and they sent me one "FREE". Quite nice folks in these days of $10 shipping and handling on a $2 order. Gary Fesenbek RV6A, final touches Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: wing skins
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Very well put Larry! Bryan Files Ever Fly MAintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry E James <larryj(at)oz.net> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 11:39 AM Subject: RV-List: wing skins > > Hi !!! > I think this kind of idea and question is a good one, and would think that > this list would be a good place to kick it around. "Half the rivets might > equate to half the strength" is just the point ..... *might* is the key > word. Incorporating a joggle here does not necessarily force a single row > of rivets; one could joggle the main skin and give it three rows of rivets. > As far as changing the airfoil, my wing doesn't even come close to the > template supplied in the shipping crate .... giving rise to question the > ultimate utility of adhering to the theoretical airfoil (and I used all > Van's parts: spars, ribs and skins !!). I believe there are aircraft out > there that do use a joggle and single row of rivets here .... anyone know > what the underlying structure is ?? I know that this main wing skin / > leading edge skin butt joint is my worst skin joint so far; and would love > to figure out a better way to do it. > > It seems to me that, as good as the RV family of aircraft are, there is > still room for improvement. I could understand Van not wanting to > participate in these variations given our propensity for litigation. But I > also recall that Van's first RV-? was a modified something else ..... > telling me that this is a natural design progression. Yes, we have to be > careful in our decisions, and build to our own comfort and competence level. > > I think this list could use a bit more tolerance for builders not quite > falling into the "insert tab A into hole A" category. I consider these > Experimental Aircraft, and as such, we have the opportunity to embark on > changes from "standard". It seems to me that persons at both extremes of > this continuum have a place in and value to the List. End of soap box. > > Larry E James > Bellevue, WA > larryj(at)oz.net > > > This kind of idea should be put into writing/drawing and sent to Van. It > is > > an engineering change. Half the amount of rivets might equate to half the > > strength. Please document these types of changes in your construction log > so > > that future buyers of the airplane will be aware that the wing is not the > > same as the thousands of other RV wings out there. Resale value of an > > airplane modified like this is likely to be substantially lower than > market. > > > > I would like to know if anyone has used a joggle to mate the rear wing > > > skin to the leading edge skin. The reason being to make it possible to > > > use only one row of rivets into the spar flange instead of the butt > joint > > > using two rows of rivets. It might require some thought and planning in > > > the fuel tank area. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Buffers
Kyle asked: I'm into the painting process, and it turns out that I've got some defective paint - it has orange peel in it! (Or maybe it was the oaf running the spray gun...?) Anyway, I'm looking for a buffer. Anyone have experience with the $50 units sold at auto parts stores, home improvement stores, etc? Will this type unit be OK for some moderate buffing? If not, please provide some suggestions for a reasonably priced unit which would work. Kyle, When I was doing custom paint, I used a buffer that was sold at Sears. It was a 2 speed unit. I don't remember the cost off hand, but I think it was around $75. One of the keys of buffing out paint is to use a slow wheel speed, somewhere less that 1500 RPM. If its going much faster than that you stand a REAL good chance of burning the paint, which will make it look worse than the orange peel. The lack of a slower speed is one the drawbacks to some of the cheaper units on the market. The best polishers will have a variable adjustment. A little practice you'll be slinging compound with the best of em. Good luck Laird SoCal RV-6 working instrument panel stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Question
My Grand Rapids engine monitor will occasionally display "digital gibberish" if left on during engine start. The Avionics Master is the only on/off switch for this unit (besides the battery contactor/master switch.) Granted, I could reset the monitor CPU (and the gyros, and the radios, and the GPS, etc...) with the master switch, but the Avionics Master, properly used, avoids this hassle every time. The digital boxes in my plane have yet to fail outright from a voltage spike, but they can and do get their little brains addled from time to time if subjected to bus voltage during cranking; something to think about, and it works for me. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PhilipR920(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: S-TEC altitude hold
I'd like comments from anyone who has installed or has experience with the S-TEC System 30 in a 6 or 6A. Information related to installation and/or performance would be appreciated. I have the System 20 in my 6A and am considering adding the altitude hold feature because of difficulty in achieving pitch trim for constant altitude. Phil Rogerson Fernandina Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RocketRider2(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: RC Allen
Does anyone know where I can find the phone number for the company that produces the RC Allen instruments??? Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Firesleeve
Date: Oct 25, 1999
I had my first experience with installing firesleeve this weekend and I know there has got to be a better way to tighten the clamps. These are the store-bought band style that I thought would look better than safety wire. My Rube Goldberg approach with vise grips to pull the free end and a big-assed screwdriver to push the band seems destined to impale the screwdriver in my hangar wall or otherwise injure me. I got away with 2 but I don't want to tempt fate. I'm sure there's some spiffy, polished titanium tool to do it, but I just need a manual way for the dozen or so clamps I'll have. What's the secret? Thanks, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Howard Walrath" <H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: "One Small Step For Man..."
Date: Oct 25, 1999
CHANGE OF SEASONS BRINGS ANNUAL "NO" VOTE It is a battle always fought in Washington as the leaves begin to fall, and 1999 has proven to be no exception. A body that rarely supports any issue with unanimity voted last week 419 to 0 against H.R. 3085, a bill that would have enacted $1.5 billion in aviation user fees. H.R. 3085 was actually introduced to allow Congress to take a very public stand against new taxes disguised as user fees, and the Clinton White House's annual attempt to enact them. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: lightspeed 25X
> > I was feeling guilty about those croos country trips where my wife got > stuck with the $80 Flightcom headsets and recently bought a Lightspeed 25X > set. I had been impressed with them at SNF, testing them in their demo > "egg" booth. When I flew with the in my -6A however they seemed overly > sensitive, the speakers distorted at about half volume, and they had a > constant hiss to them. I purchased a pair of 25XLs for my wife to use (I normally wear a helmet) and I was looking for something comfortable for her. I tried them one day in my RV-4 and found them to be nothing short of amazing. The only strangeness is that everything sounds unbalanced due to the lack of bass frequencies. It affects the radio reception but it actually has the effect of making radio communications more readable/unstandable at the cost of making voices sound unnatural. Bottom line: if I didn't have a helmet, I would be wearing a Lightspeed 25XL. Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Cy, My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and no longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is no longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be removed. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy Galley" writes: > > You do NOT have to remove the data plate. > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > > > > >Denton, > > > >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they > have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. > Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are to > be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is conducted. > Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to do > is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for > future overhauls. > > > >Mike Robertson > >RV-8A QB Just installed wings > > > > > >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > Denton Harjehausen writes: > > > >> > >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled > engine > >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by > >> an prop overhaul shop employee? > >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts > crossed and > >> the dots in the right places. > >> > >> > >> Have a great Day! > >> Denny Harjehausen > >> Lebanon, OR > >> RV-6 > >> > >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: RV-6 Videos wanted
Date: Oct 25, 1999
I'm looking to purchase some of the construction videos for the RV-6. Made my Mr Orndoff? Ed Kowalski posted a email a few weeks ago but I'm not able to get a hold of him. If Ed is out there or anyone else has the videos please let me know. Future builder and RV admirer. Steve Hurlbut Comox, BC, Canada shurlbut(at)island.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Question Answered, was Re: Question
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > > >>3) Do modern (1980's, 1990's) avionics provide sufficient power > input > >> filtering to trap (caps) or shunt such spikes? > > YES! I'm going to have to read that book... Thanks, Bob. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RC Allen
Date: Oct 25, 1999
> Does anyone know where I can find the phone number for the company that > produces the RC Allen instruments??? > > Brian You're in luck, because I just hung up the phone with them. Apparently, RC Allen has been Kelly Manufacturing for some time now, but I'm always the last to know :-) Anyway, call 800-722-4976 if you're in the US, and if not, let me know and I'll call them to get a toll number for you. On the subject of RC Allen ELECTRIC (didn't ask about vacuum) gyros, I just asked a few questions. First: What fuse do they need- 2 amps. Second: How do you adjust it for panel tilt. Answer- you don't, they do it for $200 unless you were smart enough to order the instrument that way in the first place. BTW- this only applies to the AI, and not the DG. Third: Do aerobatics hurt them. Answer is that they're very durable in aerobatic use. I asked if it was better to have them running or shut down, and they said it was really a toss up, but maybe slightly better to have them off. They said there are no stops to run into, as long as you don't engage the caging function (AI only) during aerobatics. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (just found out it's going to cost me $200 to get my AI adjusted for panel tilt- rats!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Documenting Registration Number Change for RV-6A
Howard, AS you have stated there is some question in my mind of what you want to do so I will take a stab at all of it. It is ironic that you should ask this as I just finished finding out some of this for another group (Police Dept.) that wanted to change their reg. number while waiting for the hard copy of their new registartion to arrive. First if all you are trying to do is change the number on you plane and you have already requested the change then you need to wait for the new permenant registration to arrive then apply the new numbers, and take the special airworhtiness certificate and operating limitations to your local FSDO to have them amended. DO NOT FLY The aircraft until that is completed. More than likely they will change those while you wait. Once that is done go enjoy flying. If, on the other hand, you are trying to change the special registration number that you have already requested to be applied then you have to wait until the hard copy registration arrives and then go thru the process of changing it again. If I have got this correct then go for it, but if I haven't then please feel free to email me directly off-line and I will be glad to help. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 4:45:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Howard Walrath" writes: > > Listers, I am looking for some advice from someone > (particularily our members of the Friendly Aviation > Administration) regarding what needs to be done > to effect a change to a special registration number > in a flying RV-6A (2 years, 140 hours). I paid the fee, > reserved the Special Registration Number, received > the Confirmation of Reservation (AC Form 8050-110). > > I have submitted a letter requesting permission to affix > the Special Registration Number to my RV-6A and > attached copies of the Confirmation and my Certificate > Of Registration. It is being processed at OKC and I > expect to receive back AC Form 8050-64 (Assignment > of Special Registration Numbers) authorizing the new > numbers to be placed on the airplane. > > My questions are related to what else I need to do with > the other FAA documentation??? > > Specifically: > > I presume that when I return the form stating that the new > numbers have been affixed to the aircraft, the FAA will > send me a new CERTIFICATE OF AIRCRAFT REGISTRATION > AC Form 8050-3(8/97) with the new "N" number on it, without > me having to submit anything. Correct ???? > > Since the SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE > (FAA form 8130-7) shows the old "N" number in section D, > I presume it must be changed too. Is this done by the local > FSDO office, Oklahoma City, or how? By mail or does it > have to be in person? > > Finally, the SPECIAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS document > issued by the original DAR for Phase I and Phase II (issued in > 1997 and long since complied with) contains the old "N" number > as well as Make, Model and Serial Number. Does it need to > be reissued or is it still valid if the documents authorizing the > registration number are attached and carried in the aircraft? > > If it needs to be revised to show the new REG. NO.:, must that > be the originating DAR (a thousand miles from here) or can > another DAR here locally make me a new one with REG. NO.: > the only revision? > > Guys and gals, I would sincerely appreciate any information & > personal knowledge you may have. Thanks in advance > > Howard Walrath > H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net > 940-321-5758 or 940-321-5014 (Fax) > > RV-6A Flying 140 hours > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Panel Tilt
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
Date: Oct 25, 1999
> Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? > > Paul Besing Paul, The RV-8 panel is tilted forward 8 degrees relative to the top longerons, and according to RC Allen, it absolutely has to be corrected. I'm guessing the RV-6 is similar, and either you can measure it, or someone will let you know what the tilt is. Fortunately, my gyro is still new and unopened, so Aircraft Spruce just gave me an RMA to exchange it at no charge for the 8 degree tilted model. That just saved me about $180 :-) Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy done, starting panel and electrical) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: RC Allen
>Second: How do you adjust it for panel tilt. Answer- you don't, they do it for $200 unless you >were smart enough to order the instrument that way in the first place. BTW- this only applies to >the AI, and not the DG. I got them to do it for $100. I told them that I bought their instruments not knowing that they were not universal. That was the truth. I admit if I would have thought a bit I would have known better, but... So give it a try! Denny Harjehausen FTL-Capt/SO/Nav/Mech(Ret.) FTL Ret. Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeve
I'm sure there's some spiffy, polished titanium >tool to do it, but I just need a manual way for the dozen or so clamps I'll >have. What's the secret? There is a tool. I was lucky, a friend had one. Denny Harjehausen FTL-Capt/SO/Nav/Mech(Ret.) FTL Ret. Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
> >Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? > Any tilt will show up, as I discovered running my instuments with plane leveled. I believe it is * degrees for all the -6s, A or not. Have a good one! Denny Harjehausen Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
Paul, It sure does - mine is 8 degrees built per plans, just like the standard tilt Sigmatek. Chris Browne -6A finish atlanta Paul Besing wrote: > > Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net>
Subject: Lord Mounts
Does anyone have the original number for the Lord Mts. used on the Van's Con. mount for an IO 360 ? Gettin droopy and alternator is wearing through. thanks JMP ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
--- Paul Besing wrote: > > > Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to > justify a corrected gyro? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit YES. Gone through 3 attitude gyros in 400 hours without the tilt. When my spare gets back from the repair shop, it will have the 8 degree tilt retrofited in. This lesson has cost me the purchase of TWO new gyros. The first one failed at 125 hours and was overhauled for $300. The 2nd new one failed at 13 months 220 additional flying hours and was repaired under warranty. The overhauled one ran 75 hours and is not being repaired under warranty and should come back with the 8 degree tilt I measured in my panel. This has been an EXPENSIVE lesson for me. The most expensive lesson on the airplane that was caused by my engineering / construction in 445 flying hours. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 25, 1999
You are correct, I do not believe I disagreed. -----Original Message----- From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:32 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > >Cy, > >My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and no longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is no longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be removed. > >Mike Robertson >RV-8A QB >"Das Fed" > > >In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy Galley" writes: > >> >> You do NOT have to remove the data plate. >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> > >> >Denton, >> > >> >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they >> have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. >> Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are to >> be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is conducted. >> Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to do >> is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for >> future overhauls. >> > >> >Mike Robertson >> >RV-8A QB Just installed wings >> > >> > >> >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >> Denton Harjehausen writes: >> > >> >> >> >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled >> engine >> >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by >> >> an prop overhaul shop employee? >> >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts >> crossed and >> >> the dots in the right places. >> >> >> >> >> >> Have a great Day! >> >> Denny Harjehausen >> >> Lebanon, OR >> >> RV-6 >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
In a message dated 10/25/1999 7:02:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com writes: << Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? >> The answer to that is yes and no (for the AI gyro)! With a tilted panel and a non-corrected gyro, the attitude gyro horizon line in level flight will not line up with the horizon tic marks on the sides of the gyro case. I think it is nice to have them look correct and plan to make sure that I have a corrected AI gyro. I also plan to fly IFR! If you plan to level your RV and measure the panel angle, level the longerons from the correct place (not just aft of the panel). I just discussed this with several gyro manufacturers this past weekend at AOPA Expo. None of them indicated any other problems other than the off case horizon indication! david faile, fairfield, ct mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor eaa technical counselor/flight advisor christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf) rv6 (n44df) started ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: O-360 Parts ID
Hi, Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded holes on the cylinder: 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in it on all four jugs. 2. On the bottom surface of the cylinder, just inboard of each spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it. Logic tells me #1 is for the primer lines, and #2 is for CHT probes. But I don't want to find out the hard way. Thanks -Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 25, 1999
I disagree Mike. I know that you are a Fed but..... If you have a Lycoming O-320 and make modifications to it you still have an O-320. It is a modified O-320 but never the less it is still an O-320. If he sells the aircraft the new owner must have the aircraft annualed every year by a licenced mechanic because the new owner did not build the aircraft.... As a licenced mechanic you can not sign off an annual inspection on any aircraft or any engine that does not have a data tag. If you can point me to an FAR that states something different I would be glad to take a look at it. How is your 8QB comming or is it finished? Bryan Files A&P IA FAA Safety Counsler Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: <MRobert569(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 12:03 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > Cy, > > My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and no longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is no longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be removed. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A QB > "Das Fed" > > > In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy Galley" writes: > > > > > You do NOT have to remove the data plate. > > > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > > > > > > > > >Denton, > > > > > >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they > > have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. > > Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are to > > be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is conducted. > > Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to do > > is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for > > future overhauls. > > > > > >Mike Robertson > > >RV-8A QB Just installed wings > > > > > > > > >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > > Denton Harjehausen writes: > > > > > >> > > >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an overhauled > > engine > > >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was reconditioned by > > >> an prop overhaul shop employee? > > >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts > > crossed and > > >> the dots in the right places. > > >> > > >> > > >> Have a great Day! > > >> Denny Harjehausen > > >> Lebanon, OR > > >> RV-6 > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "solanas" <solanas(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: S-TEC altitude hold
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Installing the pitch servo is easier than installing the roll servo for the system 20 - plenty of space behind the luggage compartment and good parts and directions. The rest of the parts are - an altitude transducer mounted behind the luggage compartment up top - a climb rate box, I installed it behind the panel - and a button on the panel to activate the altitude hold. I like it. Rick Solana, N804RS, 40 hours Richmond, VA > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > PhilipR920(at)aol.com > Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 1:45 PM > To: rvlist(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: S-TEC altitude hold > > > I'd like comments from anyone who has installed or has experience > with the > S-TEC System 30 in a 6 or 6A. Information related to installation and/or > performance would be appreciated. > I have the System 20 in my 6A and am considering adding the altitude hold > feature because of difficulty in achieving pitch trim for > constant altitude. > > Phil Rogerson > Fernandina Beach, FL > > > --------- > > --------- > > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Bryan, Hey, thanks for the comment. This is good. The FARs address this in a round about way. FAR 21.31 talks about the type design. An o-320 may still be an o-320 but it goes further than that. One has to also look at the extended configuration, i.e. A1A. When one gets into the specific design and components called out in the design for that engine then we get down to it. Yes for experimental aircraft we don't worry about that for the yearly condition inspction but in order to return that engine for use in a "standard" category aircraft it must be returned to its original condition. The data plate calls out the extended configuration so therefore if the engine is altered in any way from its design then the data plate is "technically" invalid and is supposed to be removed. But the bottom line is that neither I nor any other inspector is going to tear an engine apart to find out unless somebody tells us about a specific engine or if there is an accident and the engine is suspect. I am not even going to go to the reason why anybody does not want to remove the data plate (25 verses 40, hint...hint). My -8A is coming along fine. I received the fuselage and wings in August and am shooting for a Xmas first flight. It is going to be close because a few important parts are on back order with expected delivery dates of December 1st. We'll see. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" In a message dated Mon, 25 Oct 1999 9:31:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Bryan E. Files" writes: > > I disagree Mike. I know that you are a Fed but..... If you have a Lycoming > O-320 and make modifications to it you still have an O-320. It is a > modified O-320 but never the less it is still an O-320. If he sells the > aircraft the new owner must have the aircraft annualed every year by a > licenced mechanic because the new owner did not build the aircraft.... As a > licenced mechanic you can not sign off an annual inspection on any aircraft > or any engine that does not have a data tag. If you can point me to an FAR > that states something different I would be glad to take a look at it. > How is your 8QB comming or is it finished? > > Bryan Files A&P IA FAA Safety Counsler > Ever Fly Maintenance > Palmer, Alaska > -4 tail > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 12:03 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > > > > > Cy, > > > > My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and > no longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is > no longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. > Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate > unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be > removed. > > > > Mike Robertson > > RV-8A QB > > "Das Fed" > > > > > > In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy > Galley" writes: > > > > > > > > You do NOT have to remove the data plate. > > > > > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > > > (Click here to visit our Club site at > http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Denton, > > > > > > > >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they > > > have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. > > > Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are > to > > > be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is > conducted. > > > Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to > do > > > is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for > > > future overhauls. > > > > > > > >Mike Robertson > > > >RV-8A QB Just installed wings > > > > > > > > > > > >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > > > Denton Harjehausen writes: > > > > > > > >> > > > >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an > overhauled > > > engine > > > >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was > reconditioned by > > > >> an prop overhaul shop employee? > > > >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts > > > crossed and > > > >> the dots in the right places. > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> Have a great Day! > > > >> Denny Harjehausen > > > >> Lebanon, OR > > > >> RV-6 > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: RV8 Fuse Jig - Free to good home
Listers, I have an RV8 Fuse jig, very well constructed. Free to good home. Palm Beach, FL 561-748-2429 Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote: > > Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to > > justify a corrected gyro? > > YES. Gone through 3 attitude gyros in 400 hours > without the tilt. I don't understand *why* the angle of the panel should affect the life of the gyro. Could someone explain it to me please? To my simple mind, if the panel is tilted 8 degrees, the gyro will just think you're flying along at an 8 degree nose-down (or is it nose-up?) attitude most of the time. Why should this affect the gyro? If you do a lot of descents at 8 degrees nose-down, will this somehow shorten the life of the gyro (assuming you remember to always stop descending AGL)? How about gyros in taildraggers? Most of the gyro's life will be spent in an 'unusual' attitude. A significant part of its active life (taxiing, run-ups, take-off, landing rolls) is done in this ??? degree nose-up attitude. Frank. (feeling like I'm not getting the picture here) -- frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: RV6 how to drill center tube on sliding frame?
Hi listers, I have the canopy split, drilled and cleco'd to rollover bar and forward bar of the sliding frame. The lower edge is also trimmed above the outer horizontal bars. I believe the only way to drill the center bar (at the top of the canopy) is to remove the canopy from the fuselage and drill it on the bench where I can lean over it - or - stand it vertically on the forward bar. Am I on the right track or is there a reason to do it on the plane? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Tom Barnes -6 canopy Buffalo Grove, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net>
Subject: Diameter rivets..
Date: Oct 25, 1999
10/25/99 Bert Murillo :bertrv(at)intellistar.net This might be a first? when I was riveting the flap brace & hinge, i discovered fortunately, after I have set a couple rivets, as the first ones, I thought I had the wrong size.....after looking carefuylly, I did have rivets called for in the plans 426-3.4 rivets... but what happened is that the rivets are too "thin" they would fit perfectly in the gage no. 41 hole.. but on the no. 40, ofcourse they are too loose...and the shop head does not set properly, actually gos thru the hole.... The rivets I am using, are the ones that came with the kit, from Vans... altough I had some that came with the empenage kit, they were fine... This is really a puzzle for me... can any one solve the mistery... or really are rivets as AD426-3 for no. 41 drill???? Please E-mail suggestions... Thanks Bert was finishing falps..... Dimpling was correct, with the Avery dimpple set...for no. 3 rivets.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: King Radio
In a message dated 10/25/99 7:46:27, fesenbek(at)marykay.com writes: Well this is going to be a shocker for you. I bought a used KX155 w KI209 with no manual/harness. I was rolling my own so I contacted Bendix-King for a manual and they sent me one "FREE". Quite nice folks in these days of $10 shipping and handling on a $2 order. Gary Fesenbek RV6A, final touches Dallas, TX >> I had a similar nice experience when I called and confessed I never got around to sending for my free update on the GPS two or three years ago and they sent me one free ! Very nice folks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rfogerso(at)ida.net>
Subject: RV-6A for sale - pictures
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Sorry to take up list space again but several people contacted me about my RV for sale and wanted to see pictures. I bought a digital camera and took pictures but have lost the e-mail address of those interested. It you are interested, please contact me directly and I will send pictures and/or information. Thankyou, Rick Fogerson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: HVLP painting
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Just to pass on a note...I originally painted my interior with a conventional DeVilbess siphon gun, and got paint EVERYWHERE. It wasted an enormous amount of paint, and since it was high in pressure, runs were very hard to control. I was having trouble with it recently, and decided to go buy an HVLP gun. Let me tell you, the difference was too much to describe. The paint was idiot proof and looks excellent. Not to mention, there is NO overspray anywhere, and I used ALOT less paint. For those who desire to purchase one, I bought a Sharpe Cobalt for about $150. This came from the recommendation of my local Sherwin Williams dealer, and he assured me that the quality of the job will equal that of a $400 HVLP gun...he was right...Go check it out at: http://www.sharpe1.com Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Question
> >My Grand Rapids engine monitor will occasionally display "digital gibberish" >if left on during engine start. The Avionics Master is the only on/off switch >for this unit (besides the battery contactor/master switch.) Granted, I >could reset the monitor CPU (and the gyros, and the radios, and the GPS, >etc...) with the master switch, but the Avionics Master, properly used, >avoids this hassle every time. A clasic example of poor craftsmanship in the design and fabrication of a modern aircraft instrument. If I tried to sell something like that to my pilots at Raytheon, they'd cut off my supply of atta-boys. >The digital boxes in my plane have yet to fail outright from a voltage spike, >but they can and do get their little brains addled from time to time if >subjected to bus voltage during cranking; something to think about, and it >works for me. Have you complained to Grand Rapids about this? It takes a 50-cent jelly-bean part to do an orderly reset of the internal processor in case of brown-out. Unless you guys complain about poor performace quirks in these products, the manufacturer sails along fat, dumb and sassy thinking that they're doing a good job. They won't get better unless you expect them do do better and let them know about it. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen D. Metzger" <smetzger(at)ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: S-TEC altitude hold
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Phil, I don't have any experience with the STEC-30 in an RV, but I just had one installed in my Cessna Cardinal RG. I plan on installing one on my RV-8A, assuming I ever finish it. I watched closely and stopped by every day as my avionics shop was installing it. It appears to be a high quality unit and the guys at the shop unanimously agreed that out of all the APs they have installed, the STEC was the best documented and most thorough in terms of the hardware supplied by the factory, and instant support when needed. It works great, and is dog simple to use. It will warn you with a faint beep and LED indicators when the plane needs either up or down trim, though the beep can be distracting to passengers if wired so they can hear it, especially when the bumps build up. For enroute operations it works fine, and tracks well. I don't see the altitude vary at all in smooth air and in reasonable turbulence I have only see it vary about 50ft. up or down worst case. I usually disengage it for all phases of an instrument approach since it tends to "hunt" a bit from the course line and the smoothness which is nice for enroute corrections is not "quick" enough to correct when on approach if there is any turbulence at all, even on the high-sensitivity setting. Though the panel space it takes up is minimal (installed in place of a turn coordinator), it does require a fairly large pitch trim computer box as well, and a completely independent static system if installed in the rear of the plane. All in all I am quite satisfied and still plan on putting one in the RV. It is light years ahead of the Cessna 300A Nav-o-matic that it replaced. -Steve Metzger RV-8A Horizontal Stab. -----Original Message----- From: PhilipR920(at)aol.com <PhilipR920(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:07 PM Subject: RV-List: S-TEC altitude hold > >I'd like comments from anyone who has installed or has experience with the >S-TEC System 30 in a 6 or 6A. Information related to installation and/or >performance would be appreciated. >I have the System 20 in my 6A and am considering adding the altitude hold >feature because of difficulty in achieving pitch trim for constant altitude. > >Phil Rogerson >Fernandina Beach, FL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
> >Hi, >Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed >for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded >holes on the cylinder: > >1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper >spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in >it on all four jugs. > >2. On the bottom surface of the cylinder, just inboard of each spark >plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it. > >Logic tells me #1 is for the primer lines, and #2 is for CHT probes. >But I don't want to find out the hard way. > >Thanks >-Glenn Gordon As you surmised, #2 is for CHT, but I believe that the #1 ports are used for fuel injection & remain plugged if you have a carb. You should find additional plugged 1/8 NPT ports on the aft, outside, lower corner of each cylinder. These are normally used as primer ports, with maybe cylinder #3 having a manifold pressure connection instead of primer. Regards, Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/ West Bend, WI RV6A-QB N-86CG, O-360 installation Regards, Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/ West Bend, WI RV6A-QB N-86CG, O-360 installation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 1999
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
In a message dated 10/25/99 6:31:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, glenng(at)megsinet.net writes: << Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded holes on the cylinder: 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in it on all four jugs.>> This is for fuel injection tubing. plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it.>> This is the thermo-well for the CHT probes. The hole on the lower part of the cylinder just to the left of the spark plug hole is for primer or manifold pressure take off. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Diameter rivets..
<< i discovered fortunately, after I have set a couple rivets, as the first ones, I thought I had the wrong size.....after looking carefuylly, I did have rivets called for in the plans 426-3.4 rivets... but what happened is that the rivets are too "thin" they would fit perfectly in the gage no. 41 hole.. but on the no. 40, ofcourse they are too loose...and the shop head does not set properly, actually gos thru the hole.... >> Bert, I, too noticed "skinny" rivets from time to time. Properly set, skinny rivets will fill the hole just fine. If the shop heads are forming too small (or inside the hole), you need to go to a longer rivet. Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Gary, and others, where is the best place to get them overhauled??? I can buy a new one for what they want to overhaul one in Canada. I have a artifical horizon that needs O/H. Thanks Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Salmon Arm B.C. First flight sept. 8,1993 -----Original Message----- From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 5:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Tilt > >--- Paul Besing wrote: >> >> >> Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to >> justify a corrected gyro? >> >> Paul Besing >> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >> http://members.home.net/rv8er >> Finish Kit > >YES. Gone through 3 attitude gyros in 400 hours >without the tilt. When my spare gets back from the >repair shop, it will have the 8 degree tilt retrofited >in. This lesson has cost me the purchase of TWO new >gyros. The first one failed at 125 hours and was >overhauled for $300. The 2nd new one failed at 13 >months 220 additional flying hours and was repaired >under warranty. The overhauled one ran 75 hours and >is not being repaired under warranty and should come >back with the 8 degree tilt I measured in my panel. >This has been an EXPENSIVE lesson for me. The most >expensive lesson on the airplane that was caused by my >engineering / construction in 445 flying hours. > > >==== >Gary A. Sobek >"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, >So. CA, USA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 25, 1999
Glen you are correct. #2 is not NPT just a strait thread. Also there is another 1/8 NPT on the lower side which also could be used for primer. Bryan Files Ever Fly Maintenace Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 4:34 PM Subject: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > Hi, > Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed > for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded > holes on the cylinder: > > 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper > spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in > it on all four jugs. > > 2. On the bottom surface of the cylinder, just inboard of each spark > plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it. > > Logic tells me #1 is for the primer lines, and #2 is for CHT probes. > But I don't want to find out the hard way. > > Thanks > -Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <pichon.dean(at)adlittle.com>
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Aft (Top) Skin on RV-4
I'm about to "commit" to riveting the aft top skin on my -4 fuselage. I'm concerned that I might be riveting this skin too early in the building process. I've installed the empenage and associated control surfaces, and will soon start the canopy installation process. My question is the following? Have any builders found it beneficial to postpone final riveting of this skin until much later in the building process (e.g., after fitting the canopy, installing gear, etc.)? Thanks in advance for the help. **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc. and may contain confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:13:37.-0400(at)matronics.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: RV6 how to drill center tube on sliding frame?
My friend just did this, he used the strap duplicator from Avery, he said it was a no-brainer and he hit every hole dead center. Eric Henson Tom Barnes on 10/25/99 10:02:50 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV6 how to drill center tube on sliding frame? >>>>Am I on the right track or is there a reason to do it on the plane? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Tom Barnes -6 canopy Buffalo Grove, IL<<<<< ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net>
Subject: Re: Lord Mounts
My major goof...Working on too many planes at once. My 6 has a Dynafocal mount. Thanks JMP John Perri wrote: > > Does anyone have the original number for the Lord Mts. used on the Van's > Con. mount for an IO 360 ? Gettin droopy and alternator is wearing > through. > > thanks > > JMP > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GSTRV8(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
Paul, it sounds like a good deal and a good job, can you tell us where you bought this gun. Gil, 80628 almost ready to paint. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CAPR13(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Enroute Assistance........yeilded quick drain leak.
My quickdrain was purchased from an engine shop. It is brass. I"ll have to look at the name on it , if any. It will take me a few days to get that for you, as I still am enroute. Ron Vandervort ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Keith Warfield <kpwarfield(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-6 kit 4 sale
Well my RV-6 kit is for sale again. The person that wanted it did not have the money. I need to sell this ASAP. ALso available is an I-Com 760 comm radio ($800) and Auto Meter engine guages ($225). Also, you may call me @ 623.561.2527 (H) or 602.789.2779 (Working til EOM). Lost my job, must sell completed tail and partially completed wing kits. Need $4,500 in order to pay bills for next couple months. Some tools included. Have strobes, electric elevator trim, and fuel senders.Willing to complete wings for $$. Consider trade for 200+hp turbo shaft engine (I know someone that will buy it from me). Reply to: kpwarfield(at)worldnet.att.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Firesleeve
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Greg, Last time I did it, I borrowed the fancy tool from the FBO. Next time I will just use a Ty-Wrap. They are acceptable according to AeroQuip and I think they will leave a neater appearance when finished. You also don't have to borrow a tool to install them. Bruce Green writes: > >I had my first experience with installing firesleeve this weekend and >I know >there has got to be a better way to tighten the clamps. These are the >store-bought band style that I thought would look better than safety >wire. >My Rube Goldberg approach with vise grips to pull the free end and a >big-assed screwdriver to push the band seems destined to impale the >screwdriver in my hangar wall or otherwise injure me. I got away with >2 but >I don't want to tempt fate. I'm sure there's some spiffy, polished >titanium >tool to do it, but I just need a manual way for the dozen or so clamps >I'll >have. What's the secret? > >Thanks, >Greg Young >RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit > >"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - >Mark >Twain (1835-1910) > > > --- > --- > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Can you not also pull manifold pressure off one of the top holes? I do not have fuel injection but I do have a four cylinder primer system. I plumbed manifold pressure off of one of these top fittings. I hope this is okay. Anyone know for sure? Thanks. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "Painting" -----Original Message----- From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 11:16 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > >In a message dated 10/25/99 6:31:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >glenng(at)megsinet.net writes: > ><< Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed > for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded > holes on the cylinder: > > 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper > spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in > it on all four jugs.>> > >This is for fuel injection tubing. > > plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it.>> > >This is the thermo-well for the CHT probes. > >The hole on the lower part of the cylinder just to the left of the spark plug >hole is for primer or manifold pressure take off. > >-GV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Firewall forward kit
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Hey Scott! When are you guys going to start taking orders for the firewall forward kit? Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Enroute Assistance........yeilded quick drain leak.
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Sounds like a Curtis Valve. Bryan Files Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: <CAPR13(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 4:50 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Enroute Assistance........yeilded quick drain leak. > > My quickdrain was purchased from an engine shop. It is brass. I"ll have to > look at the name on it , if any. It will take me a few days to get that for > you, as I still am enroute. > > Ron Vandervort > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Log entries?
Date: Oct 26, 1999
I forwarded everything on this data plate problem to my friend, Earl Lawrence of the EAA. He is a A&P but more over, he is the liaison person that can straighten out problems between builders and restorers and the FAA. As you can tell, it is a gray area, even when Earl goes to the top. Note the requirement for A PLATE. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continuous years -----Original Message----- From: Earl Lawrence <elawrence(at)eaa.org> Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Log entries? >Cy: >FAA HQ, (not the field folks) can not come to a definite answer on this >subject. Basically NTSB, and all the accident investigation type want the >data plates left alone, and all the hard core inspectors want the data plate >changed. EAA and at least one FAA HQ manager has suggested that an X be >stamped on the data plate at the end of the part number when ever any part >with a data plate is used on an experimental aircraft. If the part is then >inspected for conformity then a "c" would be stamped after the x and a log >book entry would be made. > >This all is really just an academic exercise though because no one is >actually going to take action against someone for not changing a data plate >or for changing a data plate. Eventually EAA and FAA will work this one out >but until then I would not get very excited about this issue it is just not >on the FAA's radar screen. That is not to say a local FAA inspector may not >have a hard line opinion on this, but FAA HQ does not consider it of such >importance that they need to take any action to develop policy on this, at >this time. > >One thing that builders of experimental amateur-built and experimental >kit-built aircraft must do though is have a data plate on the engine and the >airframe as per FAR 45.11. So if you take off the engine data plate you >must put one of your own on the engine as required per FAR 45.11 and 45.13. >For an amateur-built engine the data plate would have the builders name, a >model designation, serial number, and a power rating. > >Earl > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Cy Galley [SMTP:cgalley(at)accessus.net] >> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 4:35 PM >> To: Earl Lawrence >> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> What is your opinion on the data plate? >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> (Click here to visit our Club site at >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:35 PM >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> > >> >Cy, >> > >> >My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and >> no >> longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is >> no >> longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. >> Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate >> unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be >> removed. >> > >> >Mike Robertson >> >RV-8A QB >> >"Das Fed" >> > >> > >> >In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> "Cy >> Galley" writes: >> > >> >> >> >> You do NOT have to remove the data plate. >> >> >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> >> (Click here to visit our Club site at >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> >> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >Denton, >> >> > >> >> >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that >> they >> >> have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have >> installed. >> >> Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are >> to >> >> be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is >> conducted. >> >> Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have >> to >> do >> >> is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for >> >> future overhauls. >> >> > >> >> >Mike Robertson >> >> >RV-8A QB Just installed wings >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >> >> Denton Harjehausen writes: >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an >> overhauled >> >> engine >> >> >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was >> reconditioned >> by >> >> >> an prop overhaul shop employee? >> >> >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts >> >> crossed and >> >> >> the dots in the right places. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Have a great Day! >> >> >> Denny Harjehausen >> >> >> Lebanon, OR >> >> >> RV-6 >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Aft (Top) Skin on RV-4
Good Morning Dean, In my opinion, I would wait until the very end to rivet the turtle deck on. While I don't think it is an absolute necessity, it will provide easy access for later work such as running any wires or antenna cables aft, is your battery going to be mounted in the rear baggage compartment, working on the canopy attach point at the rear bulkhead is easier. Have you installed the baggage compartment sheet metal yet? Have you performed the initial rigging of the elevator linkage? installed the pitot static vents? Run the rudder cables? All of these things can be done after the deck has been installed but are easier with it off. I have not found any disadvantage in leaving the riveting of the turtle deck until the end. Tom Brown RV4 Fiberglass RV4Brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com>
Subject: Web Site Update
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Last night I updated my "Tips, Tricks and Ideas" section to include RV List member Dick Martin's RV8 and RV List Member Dennis Persyk's RV-6. There are 3 or 4 pics for each along with some descriptions. I've guoted Dick on some performance figures for his -8 and they are pretty impressive. There is also an interesting Rudder Gust Lock Idea and a small pictorial and a couple of pictures of Lyle Heffel's -8 that I took at a local flyin in late September. Hidden in there somewhere is a picture of the RV Webring gurus, (Don Mack) Ercoupe. Hope you like. http://www.mindspring.com/rv6_log Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Web Site Update
Date: Oct 26, 1999
>From: "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rvlist(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Web Site Update >Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:34:48 -0500 > > >Last night I updated my "Tips, Tricks and Ideas" section to include RV List >member Dick Martin's RV8 and RV List Member Dennis Persyk's RV-6. There >are >3 or 4 pics for each along with some descriptions. I've guoted Dick on >some >performance figures for his -8 and they are pretty impressive. There is >also an interesting Rudder Gust Lock Idea and a small pictorial and a >couple >of pictures of Lyle Heffel's -8 that I took at a local flyin in late >September. > >Hidden in there somewhere is a picture of the RV Webring gurus, (Don Mack) >Ercoupe. Hope you like. > >http://www.mindspring.com/rv6_log > >Mike Mike, I couldn't get the URL to work. Please check it, I wanna see those RV8 numbers! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD wings on, tail on, money gone. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Randy, It is OK to pull MP off the top holes. Bryan Files Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 5:49 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > Can you not also pull manifold pressure off one of the top holes? I do not > have fuel injection but I do have a four cylinder primer system. I plumbed > manifold pressure off of one of these top fittings. I hope this is okay. > Anyone know for sure? Thanks. > > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 > "Painting" > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 11:16 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > > > > >In a message dated 10/25/99 6:31:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > >glenng(at)megsinet.net writes: > > > ><< Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that detailed > > for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded > > holes on the cylinder: > > > > 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper > > spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in > > it on all four jugs.>> > > > >This is for fuel injection tubing. > > > > plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it.>> > > > >This is the thermo-well for the CHT probes. > > > >The hole on the lower part of the cylinder just to the left of the spark > plug > >hole is for primer or manifold pressure take off. > > > >-GV > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Chalker <john.chalker(at)infoseek.com>
Subject: Web Site Update
Date: Oct 26, 1999
too bat the URL returns a 404 error :o( > -----Original Message----- > From: Nellis, Mike [SMTP:mike.nellis(at)mcd.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 7:35 AM > To: rvlist(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Web Site Update > > > Last night I updated my "Tips, Tricks and Ideas" section to include RV > List > member Dick Martin's RV8 and RV List Member Dennis Persyk's RV-6. There > are > 3 or 4 pics for each along with some descriptions. I've guoted Dick on > some > performance figures for his -8 and they are pretty impressive. There is > also an interesting Rudder Gust Lock Idea and a small pictorial and a > couple > of pictures of Lyle Heffel's -8 that I took at a local flyin in late > September. > > Hidden in there somewhere is a picture of the RV Webring gurus, (Don Mack) > Ercoupe. Hope you like. > > http://www.mindspring.com/rv6_log > > Mike > > > > - > > - > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com>
Subject: Web Site Correction
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Oops, I made a mistake on the website URL. Sorry, http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log/ Mike Nellis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
In a message dated 10/25/99 10:01:51 PM Central Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com writes: << I bought a Sharpe Cobalt >> Paul, could you share with us the specs on the compressor you used with the Sharpe gun and is it a gravity feed gun? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com (Randy Howard)
Subject: Re: Van's Construction Manuals
Date: Oct 26, 1999
> > Builder's Bookstore has been authorized by Van's to distribute Construction > Manuals for RV-4, RV-6/6A, and RV-8/8A aircraft. These are the actual manuals > that you will otherwise need to buy when you start your project. I am wondering if you will be doing any proofreading on these before reselling them? :-) I have the RV-8 doc. from Van's, and it is clear they do not use a spell checker or grammar checker to produce these. Apart from that, they look good. -- Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Aft (Top) Skin on RV-4
Dean, Do you have wiring and static lines in yet??? Stew RVer 273sb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Diameter rivets..
For a 3/32" rivet, drill with a #41 bit, then deburr and dimple. The dimpling will enlarge the hole slightly, making a perfect fit for the rivet. Best wishes, Jack Abell "Bert F. Murillo" wrote: > > 10/25/99 > > Bert Murillo > > :bertrv(at)intellistar.net > > This might be a first? when I was riveting the flap brace & hinge, i > discovered > fortunately, after I have set a couple rivets, as the first ones, I thought > I had the > wrong size.....after looking carefuylly, I did have rivets called for in the > plans > 426-3.4 rivets... but what happened is that the rivets are too "thin" they > would > fit perfectly in the gage no. 41 hole.. but on the no. 40, ofcourse they > are too > loose...and the shop head does not set properly, actually gos thru the > hole.... > > The rivets I am using, are the ones that came with the kit, from Vans... > altough I had some that came with the empenage kit, they were fine... > > This is really a puzzle for me... can any one solve the mistery... or really > are rivets as AD426-3 for no. 41 drill???? > > Please E-mail suggestions... > > Thanks > > Bert > > was finishing falps..... > > Dimpling was correct, with the Avery dimpple set...for no. 3 rivets.. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Doesn't look like much chance of getting an A&P to sign off on the engine or prop. Does it have the new oil pump and housing? New exh valves? And guides? Is the crankshaft airworthy? An IA (at annual or sign off time) is supposed to verify "even to the point of disassembly" that all the required things are done to certify an engine. Same goes with the prop. You can still use it, but it won't be certified. Jim (A&P-IA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Buffers
In my experience, I believe it would be easier to sand off all the paint or use some stripper (nasty job). Then, be sure you thin the paint enough to flow out good. Jim RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
On Mon, 25 Oct 1999, Ken Hoshowski wrote: > > Gary, and others, where is the best place to get them overhauled??? I can > buy a new one for what they want to overhaul one in Canada. I have a > artifical horizon that needs O/H. I continue to use the Gyro House in Auburn, CA. They overhaul instruments of all types and they have a good selection of used, overhauled, yellow-tagged instruments in stock. They will custom mark any instrument they sell. They do not sell any "low-cost" instruments that are not repairable. They also repair/overhaul autopilot components. I have been generally pleased with their service and those times things have not been to my liking, they made them right, no questions asked. In fact, even when I discovered a problem with an instrument that was well past their 90 day warrantee (it took me a lot longer to build the panel in my RV-4 than I had anticipated), they took my word for it that the instrument hadn't been used and they repaired it free of charge. Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: wood stiffeners in the RV-6A main gear legs
Yep, I am flying an RV6A without the wooden stiffners. Works fine. Sometimes, if I land a little fast, the "chirp " might turn into 3 or 4 chirps. Otherwise, no problems. Jim RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Cy, I stand corrected. FAR 45.11 does indeed state that the engine and prop must be identified with a fireproof plate. And like the gentlemen says, neither I nor anybody else that I know of is going to get wrapped around the axle about this. All I am stating is that "technically" the data plate no longer is valid and, god forbid, if something should happen then you are leaving yourself out to dry. This is especially true if while the altered engine is on an aircraft, you sell it, and something goes wrong. Now you are really in the s--t can because with our legal system you are going to get nailed because you did not follow the regulations exactly. I do not want to see that happen to anyone. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Cy, I can not resist one last pot shot here. Sorry, but you know how us "Feds" get. FAR 45.11 only applies to aircraft covered by Part 21.182 and to manufactures of products. Experimental aircraft are not covered by 21.182 as stated in paragraph (b) of that part. And even though we may alter the engine we are not the manufacturer so that also does not apply. Therefore 45.11 does not apply. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" In a message dated Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:17:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy Galley" writes: > > I forwarded everything on this data plate problem to my friend, Earl > Lawrence of the EAA. He is a A&P but more over, he is the liaison person > that can straighten out problems between builders and restorers and the FAA. > As you can tell, it is a gray area, even when Earl goes to the top. > > > Note the requirement for A PLATE. > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh > Volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continuous years > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Lawrence <elawrence(at)eaa.org> > To: 'Cy Galley' > Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 8:36 AM > Subject: RE: RV-List: Log entries? > > > >Cy: > >FAA HQ, (not the field folks) can not come to a definite answer on this > >subject. Basically NTSB, and all the accident investigation type want the > >data plates left alone, and all the hard core inspectors want the data > plate > >changed. EAA and at least one FAA HQ manager has suggested that an X be > >stamped on the data plate at the end of the part number when ever any part > >with a data plate is used on an experimental aircraft. If the part is then > >inspected for conformity then a "c" would be stamped after the x and a log > >book entry would be made. > > > >This all is really just an academic exercise though because no one is > >actually going to take action against someone for not changing a data plate > >or for changing a data plate. Eventually EAA and FAA will work this one > out > >but until then I would not get very excited about this issue it is just not > >on the FAA's radar screen. That is not to say a local FAA inspector may > not > >have a hard line opinion on this, but FAA HQ does not consider it of such > >importance that they need to take any action to develop policy on this, at > >this time. > > > >One thing that builders of experimental amateur-built and experimental > >kit-built aircraft must do though is have a data plate on the engine and > the > >airframe as per FAR 45.11. So if you take off the engine data plate you > >must put one of your own on the engine as required per FAR 45.11 and 45.13. > >For an amateur-built engine the data plate would have the builders name, a > >model designation, serial number, and a power rating. > > > >Earl > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Cy Galley [SMTP:cgalley(at)accessus.net] > >> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 4:35 PM > >> To: Earl Lawrence > >> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Log entries? > >> > >> What is your opinion on the data plate? > >> > >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > >> (Click here to visit our Club site at > >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:35 PM > >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > >> > >> > >> > > >> >Cy, > >> > > >> >My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and > >> no > >> longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is > >> no > >> longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. > >> Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate > >> unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be > >> removed. > >> > > >> >Mike Robertson > >> >RV-8A QB > >> >"Das Fed" > >> > > >> > > >> >In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > >> "Cy > >> Galley" writes: > >> > > >> >> > >> >> You do NOT have to remove the data plate. > >> >> > >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > >> >> (Click here to visit our Club site at > >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> -----Original Message----- > >> >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> > >> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >> >> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM > >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > > >> >> >Denton, > >> >> > > >> >> >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that > >> they > >> >> have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have > >> installed. > >> >> Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine > are > >> to > >> >> be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is > >> conducted. > >> >> Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have > >> to > >> do > >> >> is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook > for > >> >> future overhauls. > >> >> > > >> >> >Mike Robertson > >> >> >RV-8A QB Just installed wings > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight > Time, > >> >> Denton Harjehausen writes: > >> >> > > >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an > >> overhauled > >> >> engine > >> >> >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was > >> reconditioned > >> by > >> >> >> an prop overhaul shop employee? > >> >> >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the > Ts > >> >> crossed and > >> >> >> the dots in the right places. > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> Have a great Day! > >> >> >> Denny Harjehausen > >> >> >> Lebanon, OR > >> >> >> RV-6 > >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Parker43rp(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
Paul- What paint are you using with it? Ray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
You're right. Primer lines on top, CHT on bottom of cylinders. Also, top ones can be used for manifold psi. Jim RV6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ian Belmore" <ian(at)ibelmore.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Russell Do you need to specify which way the tilt is ?? Ian Belmore RV6 G-RVIB Doing Seats & Rudder Pedals ----- Original Message ----- From: Russell Duffy <rv8(at)mindspring.com> Sent: 25 October 1999 23:05 Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Tilt > > > Does the slight tilt in the -6(A) panel enough to justify a corrected gyro? > > > > Paul Besing > > Paul, > > The RV-8 panel is tilted forward 8 degrees relative to the top longerons, and according to RC Allen, > it absolutely has to be corrected. I'm guessing the RV-6 is similar, and either you can measure it, > or someone will let you know what the tilt is. Fortunately, my gyro is still new and unopened, so > Aircraft Spruce just gave me an RMA to exchange it at no charge for the 8 degree tilted model. That > just saved me about $180 :-) > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy done, starting panel and electrical) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
Date: Oct 26, 1999
> Russell > > Do you need to specify which way the tilt is ?? > > Ian Belmore > RV6 > G-RVIB > Doing Seats & Rudder Pedals Ian, I think they would assume it to be a forward tilt, but I wouldn't take that chance. I told them it was. Cheers, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (goofy baggage door) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com (Randy Howard)
Subject: Re: Question Answered, was Re: Question
Date: Oct 26, 1999
> Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Wings This is a silly question I suppose, but how do you go about reserving a number like you have? -- Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Gyro Tilt
Date: Oct 26, 1999
FYI...I just purchased my attitude indicator, and purchased the tilt option...it was $20 more.....not a bad price for the insurance.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Quick Build Primer
Hello listers I am at the point of painting my RV6QB interior. I would like to know if I should seal the factory self etching primer or can I paint over it. I thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams Sunfire paint. Are there any other paints that QB builders have had good luck with? Cash Copeland Oakland, Ca. RV6QB 60075, Canopy done ready to paint interior ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net>
Subject: Re: N Number Reservation
Date: Oct 26, 1999
>how do you go about reserving a number like you have? > >-- >Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com) Randy, Check out the Landings site: http://www.landings.com/ Then go to Databases, look for N numbers and reserved N numbers. Make up a list of about 5 numbers that you would like to reserve. See if they are in use. Come up with a good list of 5 unused N numbers and send a request to the FAA. The following is a copy of my original request for a reserved number. The reservation is good for one year and costs $10/year to maintain the reservation. Let me know if you need anything else. "Federal Aviation Administration Mike Monroney Aeronautical Center P.O. Box 25504 Oklahoma City, OK 73125 Re: Reservation of N Number Dear Sir/Madam, I would like to request that one of the following N numbers be reserved in my name. I am in the process of building an airplane, an RV-6. The numbers are listed in the order of preference: N2GB N4GB N3GB N5GB N24BD I have enclosed a check in the amount of $10 to cover this reservation for this year." Another option that a friend of mine has done is actually register the aircraft with the FAA prior to completion. He or someone else could possibly tell you how to go that route. Gary Baker RV-6 (Working on wings) N4GB (Reserved) Medina, OH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
> I am at the point of painting my RV6QB interior. I would like to know if > I should seal the factory self etching primer or can I paint over it. I > thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams > Sunfire paint. Are there any other paints that QB builders have had good > luck with? I scuffed the SW primer with scotch brite (red), then primed and painted with Rustoleum. I did this because I didn't know how to use a spray gun, and didn't want to learn in the cockpit area. IMO that was a bad idea. It worked OK, but I think I'd recommend painting the interior with a good quality paint, using an HVLP gun (DeVilbiss makes a good HVLP unit, Finish Line, for $170.). The Rustoleum is OK, but it chips a whole lot easier than my good quality paint (Imron) exterior. Tim ****** Tim Lewis timrv6a(at)iname.com N47TD RV-6A, painting Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: RV6 how to drill center tube on sliding frame?
In a message dated 10/25/99 10:27:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, skytop(at)megsinet.net writes: > me. The lower edge is also trimmed above the outer > horizontal bars. I believe the only way to drill the center bar (at the top > of the canopy) is to remove the canopy from the fuselage and drill it on the > bench where I can lean over it - or - stand it vertically on the forward > bar. ???? I had no trouble on a small step stool drilling it in place. Tape the center bar to highlight the area where the plexiglass touches and drill straight through. Use a dupe strap for the aluminum strip afterwards, using the center bar as a guide. You may want to drill it front to back using the latch hole as the place from which the plexi can expand and contract. The plexi probably doesn't touch the bar all the way back until you drill and cleko anyway. Good luck Brian Eckstein 6A finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DRAGRRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: accident
Have any of you heard anything about an experimental plane crash at Corpus Christi Texas that killed two people a couple of days ago,or what type of airplane? Jim Callender Hitchcock, Tex. RV-6 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: oil cooler hookup
Hi, RE: RV-6 O360-A1A, LEFT FIREWALL MOUNT, POSITECH I am starting to figure out which oil line routing from the engine to the oil cooler will work out best. Questions.... 1. Am I correct that the 45 degree bend type is the only AN fitting that will work in the "Oil to Cooler" port on the engine? And that the straight type AN fitting is the only one that will work in the "Oil from Cooler"? 2. Am I better off with a short run and a long run to and from the cooler, or am I better off with 2 medium length runs. Does it matter? 3. It seems that many different combos of hoses and fitting will work in this situation. What have other builders using this configuration used? Thank you, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: OT: homebuilt Piper Comanche?
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Here is a question, a little of topic. Found two Piper airplanes register as "amateur built." Is this just a bookkeeping error on the part of the FAA? Or any they really homebuilts to be maintained that way??? N-Number 7659P Amateur-Built? Yes Aircraft Make Piper Aircraft Model PA-24-180 Serial Number 24-2872 Year Manufactured 1961 Aircraft Type Land Engine Type Engine Make Lycoming Engine Model O&VO-360 SER Horsepower 180 Airworthiness Class Standard Approved Operations Seats 4 Type of Ownership Individual Owner Name Langebro Hakan C Street 101 W Olympic Pl Apt 310 City Seattle, WA 98119-4714 FAA Region Northwest-Mountain Country US Registration Date 22-Apr-1998 Last Activity Date 22-Apr-1998 P.S. they were both 180 model 24 Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com>
Subject: List of...(cat's out of the bag)
OK, I guess I will start letting out a bit more...keep in mind this is unofficial, so I'm not really saying anything. If anyone asks, we'll just say you have ESP. :-) There are three things that are supposed to be ready on November 15, in order from least to most significant: 1. Van's New Accessories Catalog - Not much to say here, except that it will have some new products and updated prices (some increased, some decreased). Available for Acrobat download or non-Acrobat on-line browsing. On-line shopping/ordering allows you to place orders 24/7. The catalog, of course, will also be available in print. 2. Van's New Web Site - A revived version of what's currently available, in a new site design. New information on the RV-8A, RV-9, 8/8A QuickBuilds, builders groups, insurance/financing, flight training, cost to complete an RV, kit options, shipping information, etc. Plus most everything that is currently available on-line. And the RV of the Week will continue, but will be updated every week, at the same time--to the second (no more "RV of the Season"). On-line ordering will be available for accessory items and parts. 3. SourceRV - This is produced by an independent company in cooperation with Van's Aircraft. This is the main part of what I was referring to in my messages. I don't know the best way to describe it other than say it is the ultimate Internet-based resource for RV enthusiasts, builders, and pilots... It will be a central place for information of all kinds. Plans revisions, RVator archives, photographs, builder's tips, gotchas, workarounds, fixes, additional help, Van's tech support archives, service bulletins, safety discussions, maintenance articles, cg calculator...the list goes on. Being independent from Van's, yet associated, is really the best of both worlds. The content will really be what YOU want, and will not be dictated (nor will it have to be approved) by Van's. It will also allow more timely distribution, because it is put up direct. However, the cooperation with Van's means that the site still will contain "Van's Official" information along with independently developed and user contributed material. I'm involved in this project, and I can tell you that it has been a while in the making. In the end, factoring planning, design, development, and dynamic maintenance, I will have put thousands of hours into the project. Because SourceRV is not financially supported by Van's, there will have to be a small subscription fee (about two bucks a month). I'm confident that you will find this to be a value for what's available. If this site were officially announced, I'd tell you that more information is available at: http://www.infoav.com/rv/ but I'd better not tell you that... ;-) Hope this answer some questions, ~Jeremy (I didn't tell you) Benedict jwb(at)europa.com >Kevin... I agree but how does one know what Van's has planned. Maybe a few >subtle hints from Jeremy would go a long way toward keeping us from >re-inventing the wheel. > >What about it Jeremy......not to let any cats out of the bag but it is about >time we knew what to expect from Van's. I have been waiting to get the new >catalog for 6 months so I could fill my panel (amonst other things). Nothing >yet. I really hate to spend my money somewhere else because I really would >like to support Van's if I can. However, time is getting short. > >Gary Palinkas >Parma, Ohio >RV6 QB > ><<<issue. I'll wait and see what the Van's website update looks like, >then decide whether there is a need for any additional info. I >certainly don't want to duplicate anything that Vans does. > >Kevin > > >> >>Good idea, but in a way, you're sort of replicating in part a major effort >>that's expected to be available Nov 15 on the web.>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Quick Build Primer
Message text written by Cash Copeland >I would like to know if I should seal the factory self etching primer or can I paint over it. I thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams Sunfire paint.< Sunfire is a acrylic Urethane that I believe requires a compatible primer and sealer first. I'll pass this on to my next door neighbor / SW rep and get the definative answer to you this weekend. I've been using Sw Vynly Etch (similar to the wash primer) and he told me I would need to prime / seal before using the sunfire. I am not priming parts that will eventually get painted. Scott A. Jordan 80331 seat backs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Sunfire does not require a sealer...maybe compatible, but not a sealer...I used Sherwin Williams 988 with no sealer, and the Sunfire went on perfectly..it also paints well over the QB primer...I even painted over my baffles, which were originally done with BBQ grill paint (bad idea) and it even stuck to that...the stuff is about idiot and bullet proof....for the exterior, I will first use acid etch, then a product called Corrosion Seal, and then a sealer, then the sunfire...just to make sure that moisture does not get in there... Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit >Sunfire is a acrylic Urethane that I believe requires a compatible primer >and sealer first. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: R.A.C.E race at Mesquite Nv
Hey Racers R.A.C.E. is having a race this weekend at Mesquite. Lots of fun, two laps around for a total of 102 nm. Come on out and challange those plastic airplanes. Might even beat a few of them. Should be a good RV showing with 5 or 6 (or more) participating. Contact me off-list for info. Tom RV3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Question
> > It's Bob's standard answer when the subject comes up. From an idealistic >point of view it makes sense, if a piece of hardware needs the protection >of an avionics master its a defective design and you shouldnt buy it. In my >opinion that viewpoint doesnt jive with reality. No, I'm saying that every manufacturer of avionics I've worked with for the past two decades subscribe to the tenants of good design signs up to testing their products against DO-160 . . . check the installation manual. If they're TSO'd, then DO-160 is an automatic part of the qualification to get TSO. If they're not TSO'd then somewhere in their book they'll call out qualification to DO-160. The gripe cited (processor resets during browout) earlier in the conversation is a functional design defect, not a shortcoming that puts the product at risk of damage. These things are often tolerated of Learjet that pilots have to pull and reset with some frequency. Seems the VLF Omega nav system needs a cold-boot reset from time to time. Let's be sure we're talking about performance quirks versus damage to the product from stimuli that is present in every airplane and considered NORMAL. > If I understand Bob's position correctly I should refuse to purchase any >device which suffers an occasional glitch at engine start until the >manufacturer corrects whatever deficiency causes this to happen. Should >this be the sole basis for making a decision to purchase a device that >otherwise does exactly what I want it to do? Particularly when I can >overcome this minor deficiency by installing and using an avionics master >switch in my panel to overcome this single intermittant discrepancy? Not at all. I'm talking about being a good consumer and applying pressure to the industry to shape up. Ask every supplier of goodies if they REQUIRE or even suggest pilot intervention (turn off or have avionics master) to prevent damage to their product. If they say "yes", then politely tell them you'll look for a more appropriate product elsewhere. Now, if you REALLY want their gizmo and you're willing to subject yourself to their ADMITTED shortcomings, call back in a week and order the thing. They won't remember your earlier call but they might have told the engineering manager that "we just lost another sale because we can't measure up." Nothing draconian nor restrictive of your fondest dreams . . . but I object to aviation's mindset that everything is fragile, expensive and needs government intervention to keep from hurting us. Further everything has to be installed by people with magic diplomas saying they're qualified to protect us from ourselves and from things too technical for us simple folk to understand. Airplanes, like other expensive hobbies tend to stay that way until we stop bending over to take it in the shorts. You guys are building the finest airplanes ever flown. You've taken on a task that only one person in 200,000 will ever accomplish. If your RV had a quirky stall characteristic, you'd be all over Van about it. If your engine craps a jug every 100 hrs for no good reason, you be camping on your supplier's doorstep. Why are you so willing to give the electro-wienies a bye on rudimentary electronics design defaults? > Bob is correct in that his is not a singular point of view. Nor is GV's. >Bob has a lot of good ideas when it comes to electrical system design. I >intend to use a number of them. But he doesnt have the market cornered. > Bob, I'm quite impressed that in all of your years in this field you've >NEVER designed a piece of hardware requiring pilot intervention (read >avionics master). Nor have any of your collegues? If so then who invented >the avionics master and for what purpose? SOMEBODY designed those boxes >that fizzled on engine start. :-) We (Cessna) did . . . and the problems were showing up in OUR own radios (Cessna owned ARC) when the first transistors were designed in . . . . . . . . 35 years ago. When transistors were germanium, 30 volt devices that would head south if you yelled at them; 10 years before DO-160; 10 years before 100+ volt silicon devices; and 15 years before the industry really began to understand how to do it right in the lab and be competitive in a real world with easily survivable hazards. Actually, it was probably low voltage (brownout) that was killing radios back then but now it matters not. Avionics master switches are dinosaurs. . . . common guys, are we going to wear our 1960's security blankies into the 21st century? Electrically induced failures in avionics nowadays are caused by runaway alternators. Systems with a battery flogged far beyond its practical service life. Systems with no or slow over voltage protection . . . yes, there are hazards out there that will cook radios . . . NONE of which are mitigated by an avionics master switch. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Out of Baffle Material
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Does anyone have any leftover baffle material? I need about a 12" X 3 12" piece....I promise I'll buy you a beer at Oshkosh next year! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-8 Empennage Options
Date: Oct 26, 1999
OK, I've finally riveted the HS together and am cleaning up the job while I plan the VS. Thinking ahead to lighting and antenna installations has me wondering what options I have and what cool things have been done to simplify or improve the kit. I'd like to get ideas from the crowd on: 1. Has anyone mounted a strobe or beacon on top of the VS? This would require a custom fiberglass fairing at least...the fairing I have has a place for a light on the bottom...I like the look of the bottom location, but wonder about visibility down there 2. I really like the idea of mounting the GPS antenna under the VS top fairing although the feedline length is an issue. Has anyone done this and have results they'd like to post? 3. I am considering Warren Gretz's kit for relocating the electric elevator trim...any experience with this? Any other options I should consider? Thanks! Mark Dickens Germantown, TN RV-8 Emp, HS more or less finished, eyeing the VS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Amen! - neither does 43 -----Original Message----- From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 12:32 PM Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Log entries? > >Cy, > >I can not resist one last pot shot here. Sorry, but you know how us "Feds" get. FAR 45.11 only applies to aircraft covered by Part 21.182 and to manufactures of products. Experimental aircraft are not covered by 21.182 as stated in paragraph (b) of that part. And even though we may alter the engine we are not the manufacturer so that also does not apply. Therefore 45.11 does not apply. > >Mike Robertson >RV-8A QB >"Das Fed" > > >In a message dated Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:17:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy Galley" writes: > >> >> I forwarded everything on this data plate problem to my friend, Earl >> Lawrence of the EAA. He is a A&P but more over, he is the liaison person >> that can straighten out problems between builders and restorers and the FAA. >> As you can tell, it is a gray area, even when Earl goes to the top. >> >> >> Note the requirement for A PLATE. >> >> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh >> Volunteer from Chapter 75 for 28 continuous years >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Lawrence <elawrence(at)eaa.org> >> To: 'Cy Galley' >> Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 8:36 AM >> Subject: RE: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> >Cy: >> >FAA HQ, (not the field folks) can not come to a definite answer on this >> >subject. Basically NTSB, and all the accident investigation type want the >> >data plates left alone, and all the hard core inspectors want the data >> plate >> >changed. EAA and at least one FAA HQ manager has suggested that an X be >> >stamped on the data plate at the end of the part number when ever any part >> >with a data plate is used on an experimental aircraft. If the part is then >> >inspected for conformity then a "c" would be stamped after the x and a log >> >book entry would be made. >> > >> >This all is really just an academic exercise though because no one is >> >actually going to take action against someone for not changing a data plate >> >or for changing a data plate. Eventually EAA and FAA will work this one >> out >> >but until then I would not get very excited about this issue it is just not >> >on the FAA's radar screen. That is not to say a local FAA inspector may >> not >> >have a hard line opinion on this, but FAA HQ does not consider it of such >> >importance that they need to take any action to develop policy on this, at >> >this time. >> > >> >One thing that builders of experimental amateur-built and experimental >> >kit-built aircraft must do though is have a data plate on the engine and >> the >> >airframe as per FAR 45.11. So if you take off the engine data plate you >> >must put one of your own on the engine as required per FAR 45.11 and 45.13. >> >For an amateur-built engine the data plate would have the builders name, a >> >model designation, serial number, and a power rating. >> > >> >Earl >> > >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Cy Galley [SMTP:cgalley(at)accessus.net] >> >> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 4:35 PM >> >> To: Earl Lawrence >> >> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> >> What is your opinion on the data plate? >> >> >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> >> (Click here to visit our Club site at >> >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> >> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:35 PM >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >Cy, >> >> > >> >> >My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and >> >> no >> >> longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is >> >> no >> >> longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. >> >> Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate >> >> unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be >> >> removed. >> >> > >> >> >Mike Robertson >> >> >RV-8A QB >> >> >"Das Fed" >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> >> "Cy >> >> Galley" writes: >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> You do NOT have to remove the data plate. >> >> >> >> >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> >> >> (Click here to visit our Club site at >> >> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> >> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> >> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >> Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM >> >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >> >Denton, >> >> >> > >> >> >> >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that >> >> they >> >> >> have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have >> >> installed. >> >> >> Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine >> are >> >> to >> >> >> be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is >> >> conducted. >> >> >> Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have >> >> to >> >> do >> >> >> is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook >> for >> >> >> future overhauls. >> >> >> > >> >> >> >Mike Robertson >> >> >> >RV-8A QB Just installed wings >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight >> Time, >> >> >> Denton Harjehausen writes: >> >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an >> >> overhauled >> >> >> engine >> >> >> >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was >> >> reconditioned >> >> by >> >> >> >> an prop overhaul shop employee? >> >> >> >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the >> Ts >> >> >> crossed and >> >> >> >> the dots in the right places. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Have a great Day! >> >> >> >> Denny Harjehausen >> >> >> >> Lebanon, OR >> >> >> >> RV-6 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Log entries?
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Not so. Look up certification:airworthiness certificates. A experimental airworthiness registered aircraft has a yearly CONDITION inspection to it, the engine, prop etc IAW the scope and detail of appendix of part 43. ( even though part 43 does not apply, it is the guide required- gotta love the feds). The manufacturer or a A&P may perform this inspection, IA not required. I would gladly give you the references but my FAR's are at work. A&P,IA,FAA safety counselor, Chief Inspector. -----Original Message----- From: Bryan E. Files <BFiles(at)corecom.net> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 8:01 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > >I disagree Mike. I know that you are a Fed but..... If you have a Lycoming >O-320 and make modifications to it you still have an O-320. It is a >modified O-320 but never the less it is still an O-320. If he sells the >aircraft the new owner must have the aircraft annualed every year by a >licenced mechanic because the new owner did not build the aircraft.... As a >licenced mechanic you can not sign off an annual inspection on any aircraft >or any engine that does not have a data tag. If you can point me to an FAR >that states something different I would be glad to take a look at it. >How is your 8QB comming or is it finished? > >Bryan Files A&P IA FAA Safety Counsler >Ever Fly Maintenance >Palmer, Alaska >-4 tail >----- Original Message ----- >From: <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >To: >Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 12:03 PM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? > > >> >> Cy, >> >> My apologies but I respectfully disagree. If the engine is modified and >no longer meets the type design for that model engine then the Data plate is >no longer valid until the engine is returned to the original configuration. >Obviously nobody will probably know if one does not remove the DAta plate >unless something happens but technically the data plate is supposed to be >removed. >> >> Mike Robertson >> RV-8A QB >> "Das Fed" >> >> >> In a message dated Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:00:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Cy >Galley" writes: >> >> > >> > You do NOT have to remove the data plate. >> > >> > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> > (Click here to visit our Club site at >http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com> >> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> > Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:24 AM >> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Log entries? >> > >> > >> > > >> > >Denton, >> > > >> > >Put exactly what you have done to the engine and prop. State that they >> > have been overhauled and then what the mods are that you have installed. >> > Also it is highly advisable that you state that the prop and engine are >to >> > be used in experimental aircraft only unless and new overhaul is >conducted. >> > Your local FAA Rep should by that off. The only other thing you have to >do >> > is remove the data plate from the engine. Keep it with the logbook for >> > future overhauls. >> > > >> > >Mike Robertson >> > >RV-8A QB Just installed wings >> > > >> > > >> > >In a message dated Sat, 23 Oct 1999 8:40:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >> > Denton Harjehausen writes: >> > > >> > >> >> > >> Anyone out there give me an idea of log entries for an >overhauled >> > engine >> > >> that is not certified because of mods and a C/S that was >reconditioned by >> > >> an prop overhaul shop employee? >> > >> I am about to call for inspection and need to get all the Ts >> > crossed and >> > >> the dots in the right places. >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> Have a great Day! >> > >> Denny Harjehausen >> > >> Lebanon, OR >> > >> RV-6 >> > >> >> > >> >> > > >> > > >> > >> > >> > >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GlfrDug(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Michigan Fly-In
Thanks to any who considered coming up or down to Cadillac last weekend. The weather did not allow any planes in, but we did have around 30 or so of our chapter members, and some builders in from Howell and the Sault Canada area. We had good stories and great Chili. Here's to better weekends of weather in the future D Bell 8QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
Date: Oct 26, 1999
PPG Concept is a good paint that covers well and is easy to shoot. Bryan Files Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: <JusCash(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 1:57 PM Subject: RV-List: Quick Build Primer > > Hello listers > > I am at the point of painting my RV6QB interior. I would like to know if I > should seal the factory self etching primer or can I paint over it. I > thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams > Sunfire paint. Are there any other paints that QB builders have had good > luck with? > > Cash Copeland > Oakland, Ca. > RV6QB 60075, Canopy done ready to paint interior > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 1999
From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Empennage Options
Mark: Check with Warren, but it appears that his alternative trim mounting kit won't work very well for the RV8. I considered it but decided against it and fitted the trim motor per the plans. Since the plans are a little vague (at least to my befuddled mind) I found some of the photos on folks web sites helpful. I believe Moe's site at http://tabshred.com/moe/ has a photo of the trim installation. Phil Smith Fairfax, CA 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com>
Subject: Pop Rivet Question
Date: Oct 26, 1999
I'm having some concerns with my common sense conflicting with my plans for my RV-3, and was wondering if some of you other experienced RV dash-number builders may be able to give me some advice/feedback. My ailerons skins on my -3 are .020 instead of the .016 depicted in the plans. Where the overlapping single joint meets on the bottom of the aileron there is a total thickness of .080 (.020 top skin, .020 bottom skin, and .040 for spar = .080). Both my 1973 plans, and my post-1984 preview plans depict 1/8" pop rivets, 1973 set= MD-424-BS (now equivalent to ?????), and post 1984 set= CS4-4. Both rivet references appear to be to 1/8" countersunk, with a grip of .188-.250 (for the CS4-4's anyway). I tested some .188-.250 total grip self plugging pop rivets that were in the aileron previously. Some seemed to grip/clamp tight, while some seemed to allow some movement in the test pieces. Any recommendations besides just trying a 1/8" -2 countersunk rivet (hard to find that are self plugging)? Only ones that seem readily available are the MSP-42 that are 120 degrees vs. the 100 degrees and are not self plugging. I'm willing to try anything that is 100 degrees countersunk with the right grip (.063-.125 I guess), and self plugging. . . .any suggestions that I am ignorant to are very much appreciated. Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 Socorro, NM 505-835-3644 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: accident
DRAGRRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Have any of you heard anything about an experimental plane crash at Corpus > Christi Texas that killed two people a couple of days ago,or what type of > airplane? > Jim Callender > Hitchcock, Tex. > RV-6 Fuselage > Hello Yall We were at the Reklaw fly-in this weekend and talked to a man and women whom we met last year at the same fly-in. In the conversation the gentleman talked about a new plane he recently acquired, a Spezio. While watching the news last night my heart sank when the newscaster announced that the plane was a Spezio. They then aired the pictures of the couple from Reklaw. Talking to him it was obvious he had a great amount of experience and appeared to be cautious pilot. He was a flight instructor and volunteered to help me transition to the more complicated and faster RV. I barely knew him, but feel a great loss. There is an news paper clip on the net. http://www.caller.com/1999/october/26/today/local_ne/20.html George Meketa Cessna 140\RV8-QB wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Baffle Pics
Date: Oct 27, 1999
As promised, the corners of the baffle material pictures are up at: http://members.home.net/rv8er/enginep.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Subject: Re: MAP port (wasO-360 Parts ID)
I am installing a RMI uMonitor. The instructions warn that, despite software integration of the MAP readings, if the takeoff is too close to the inlet valve, the fluctuating pressure will cause variations in the readings. Without having seen the layout of the induction path in the head, I'm surmising that the lower ports will have less violent perturbations than the upper. This may not affect your MAP sensor/display but I am probably going to need a restrictor fitting even in the lower port. Peter Bennett RV6 Sydney > > Can you not also pull manifold pressure off one of the top holes? I do > not have fuel injection but I do have a four cylinder primer system. I > plumbed manifold pressure off of one of these top fittings. I hope this > is okay. Anyone know for sure? Thanks. > > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 > "Painting" > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 11:16 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > > > > >In a message dated 10/25/99 6:31:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > >glenng(at)megsinet.net writes: > > > ><< Since the book Lycoming supplies with the engine isn't all that > >detailed > > for such things, can someone please identify the following threaded > > holes on the cylinder: > > > > 1. On the top surface side of the cylinder, just left of each upper > > spark plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has an allen head screw in > > it on all four jugs.>> > > > >This is for fuel injection tubing. > > > > plug is a tapped hole (1/8 NPT?) that has nothing in it.>> > > > >This is the thermo-well for the CHT probes. > > > >The hole on the lower part of the cylinder just to the left of the spark > plug > >hole is for primer or manifold pressure take off. > > > >-GV > > > > > > > > -- > -- > Browsing: http://www.matronics.com/archives List Support > Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Other Email > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Is this information good for the O-320 too? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- As you surmised, #2 is for CHT, but I believe that the #1 ports are used for fuel injection & remain plugged if you have a carb. You should find additional plugged 1/8 NPT ports on the aft, outside, lower corner of each cylinder. These are normally used as primer ports, with maybe cylinder #3 having a manifold pressure connection instead of primer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: List of...(cat's out of the bag)
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Jeremy, That all sounds great! Has there been any thought to putting the RVator on the web site as well in a PDF format. I would think it would save Van's the time & cost of printing & postage. I for one would welcome it. If it is added to the SourceRV site that would be great as well. Thanks for the improvements. Mark Steffensen 8A Firewall Forward ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 8:02 PM Subject: RV-List: List of...(cat's out of the bag) > > OK, I guess I will start letting out a bit more...keep in mind this is > unofficial, so I'm not really saying anything. If anyone asks, we'll just > say you have ESP. :-) > > There are three things that are supposed to be ready on November 15, in > order from least to most significant: > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: UH-OH EVERYONE PLEASE READ THIS!
Well fellow listers it's almost Halloween and you know what that means. November is just one weekend away and our annual RV-List fund raiser is about to kick off! This year all of these pitiful pleas for participation will be going to three additional lists as well. The Rocket, Zenith, and Kolb Lists will also be exposed to my shameless appeals on Matt's behalf. For those of you who have never been through this before, what I do is try to get you to VOLUNTARILY contribute a donation to Matt to help keep all these homebuilt aircraft computer lists financed and in state-of-the-art working order. I have been so impressed that Matt has never REQUIRED us to pay any user fees that I have volunteered to be the list "Tax Man". I will be posting from three to four e-mails a week with pleas in various forms (mostly humorous, all intended to be) to try to make you want to contribute. Either by shamming you into it, peer pressure, or anything else that I think will work. Feel free to send me any skeletons of other list members that I can use to accomplish these goals ;-) ). The point is, these lists take a lot of Matt's time and money to run for our convenience. Everyone who subscribes to them gets some form of benefit from them. This benefit has to have a monetary value to you and YOU get to decide what that is. (At least a magazine subscription price I hope!) From the response I got privately last year everyone really enjoyed last years fund raiser and made it a point to read the posts. My subjects will always be in capital letters and from me so you will know before you open it what it's going to be about. I would like to encourage anyone who wishes to give testimony on how the list helps them to feel free to do so, but please let's not start until next week. November is Turkey month here in the USA so just kind of look at me as your List Turkey and make that donation early to get it over with! I will post one of last years favorites later today so you can kind of get a feel for what is going to be coming. I hope you all enjoy it and are as generous this year as you were last year. Al Mojzisik IRS agent............Internet Revenue Service PS.....Matt do you have anything you can tell us about how last years donations were spent and plans for the future ???? You can make on-line secure credit card donations at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html Or if you wish, you can send your opinions and a generous check too: Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94550 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Yes ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:45 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > Is this information good for the O-320 too? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, Vermont > > -----Original Message----- > > As you surmised, #2 is for CHT, but I believe that the #1 > ports are used > for fuel injection & remain plugged if you have a carb. You > should find > additional plugged 1/8 NPT ports on the aft, outside, lower > corner of each > cylinder. These are normally used as primer ports, with > maybe cylinder #3 > having a manifold pressure connection instead of primer. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Harrellace(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Subject: Lyc O360 A1A
Does anyone know of a Lyc. 0360 A1A run out for sale ? Please replay RV-6 N7470U Flying (BWG) KY. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Tilt
On Wed, 27 Oct 1999, Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > Let's hope that panel tilt not being built in was, in fact, the cause of > your troubles! > > >YES. Gone through 3 attitude gyros in 400 hours > >without the tilt. When my spare gets back from the > >repair shop, it will have the 8 degree tilt retrofited > >in. This lesson has cost me the purchase of TWO new Whether or not panel tilt has been programmed in should have absolutely no effect on gyro life. I would be looking elsewhere for the problem. Brian Lloyd brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net>
Subject: Re: Diameter rivets..
Date: Oct 27, 1999
10/26/99 John: Thank for the good suggestion; would be for the future though, since now the holes are already dimpled.... Godd luck too Bert Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: -6 Canted instrument panel
<> <> Hi all, Thanks for the kind words, Gary. I had unsubscribed while I was on vacation and didn't see this thread until I was bumming around the archives a couple of days ago. I've been working on a Glassair style panel for my -6. I've got the prototype installed in my fuse and have some pictures up on a friends web page (thanks Paul). You can check them out at: http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm The page is still needs some work but the pictures are there. I haven't had time to investigate bringing this to market yet (gotta work on getting mine flying first :-), but I would appreciate any feedback from any potential customers. It has room for 8 - 3 1/8" primary instruments, a full stack of radios, and engine instruments. The layout shown is for a simple VFR airplane (what mine will be), but I think there is room for everything needed for a light IFR panel. It is 1-1/4" lower than a stock panel. I think the real advantage to this panel over a Glassair panel from Stoddard-Hamilton is that it will install in a very similar manor as the stock RV panel with no major hacking of the forward structure. You can see by the pictures that the stock forward skin is retained as well as all the stock substructure. I did modify the F-6107 panel supports, but in the end I don't think it was necessary. A little local trimming around the instruments is all that's required. I'll put more info on the web page about some of the other features and some other specific stuff when I get the time. Price would "probably" be around $300-$325. I'll know more when I price out the materials and refine the manufacturing processes. I still need to do the documentation as well. So it could be awhile before I could get them out. At least I've got the molds done. Let me know what you all think. Thanks, Laird Owens owens(at)aerovironment.com RV-6 starting to wire stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Subject: Re: 10% for Matronics & a challenge
In a message dated 10/27/99 9:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes: > From now through the end of November 10% from any purchase from Builder's > Bookstore can be set aside as a donation to Matronics (the folks who provide > this mailing list) to help keep the RV list operating throughout next year. > This is an excellent idea. We at AAMR/Aircore thank Matt for all he as done to make these lists work. We will do the same as Builder Book Store. Please note in the comments section of the order form that you are an RV LIST or any of Matt's other Lists members and we'll donate 10% of your purchase price to Matt. Also please consider this to be a challenge to the rest of the businesses that are users this list...Let's support Matt! e or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Best regards, John & Robin Caldwell @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: FAA BANS RV-LIST
> >FAA administrator, Jane Garvey, announced today in Washington that the >RV-List operated by Matt Dralle (On the left coast!) was to be shut down. >Citing the 51% rule as the reason for the shut down Garvey explained that >with the advent of Vans Quick Build Kits the RV-List offered so much >additional assistance to the builders that they no longer met the 51% >criteria! "These builders are really pushing the envelope!" Garvey was >quoted as saying. "They get all there builder questions answered by one >simple E-Mail to this list! They no longer have to spend hours trying to >figure out the plans and the manuals supplied by the kit builder. This >significantly reduces build time and they make far fewer mistakes. It has >taken most of the fun out of being the Administrator and besides, that >Dralle guy has nicer hair than me!" She also noted. Rumor has it that >Vans also supports the ban because they have noticed that their sales >of replacement parts has significantly decreased since people get advice on >how to do it the right way the first time from "one quick question" to the >List. We were not able to confirm this rumor however. > >It was suggested by Moe Colontonio that builders supply their serial numbers >to the list administrator and if they cross check to a Quick Build serial >number then they would not be allowed on the list. Moe also asked that if >anyone had a spare empennage and NON-Quickbuild serial number he would be >interested in purchasing it. > >Doug Rozendaal asked the administrator if it wasn't possible that she was >just jealous because Matt Dralle calls himself an administrator too? (The >List Administrator) To which Garvey replied, "Absolutely not! I can care >less what he calls himself! Don't you fly that pink airplane I saw at >Oshkosh? We'll have to have a closer look at that machine!" After which >Rozendaal withdrew his question. > >Chet Razer and some others at this point in the meeting asked Ms. Garvey if >there was any more beer since they were done flying for the day anyway. To >which Ms. Garvey responded that that "was an inappropriate question at >such a meeting! " After which Ms. Garvey was bombarded with questions >about bolt torque, Extra storage space in RV's, numerous engine questions, >and finally some misguided newbie asked her about PRIMER! > >After tearing her hair out (no wonder Matt's looks better) Ms. Garvey >suggested that maybe she better have another look at the RV-List ban and >reassess her position. She said she is open to more public input if you >don't mention PRIMER! > >You can contact the Administrator at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html > > Please have your Credit Card ready! > >Or if you wish, you can send your opinions and a generous check too: > > Matt Dralle > PO Box 347 > Livermore, CA 94550 > > If you even smiled once, won't you contribute? AL > > > +-- --+ > | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com | > | --- | > | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" | > | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. | > | --- | > | Please aggressively edit quoted text on a followup posting! | > +-- --+ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Subject: Re: Question Answered, was Re: Question
To reserve an "n" number go to your local FSDO with a list of the numbers you would like. They will check the computer list to see if any of them are already in use. When you have three - very important - write to the aircraft registry in Oklahoma City, along with $10, requesting to reserve the number. Put the numbers in order of which one you really want on down. The reason for three is just in case the first one you want has been reserved ahead of you then they will go to the second then to the third. You will get a letter back from the registry letting you know that your number is reserved. That reservation is good for one year. If you are not ready to activate the number after a year then you will need to send another ten dollars to keep it reserved. When you are ready to put the number on you plane then send the reserved card along with yet another letter requesting them to actually activate it. Mike Robertson RV-8A wings and wheels on "Das Fed" In a message dated Tue, 26 Oct 1999 5:38:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com (Randy Howard) writes: > > > Mike Thompson > > Austin, TX > > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > > Wings > > This is a silly question I suppose, but how do you go > about reserving a number like you have? > > -- > Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Compressor Warning; was HVLP painting
Listers, Last week I painted the interior of a local builders RV-6A. I was using a HVLP gun (develbliss) and things were going quite well. We primed a bunch of airframe parts and then the interior. While shooting the color top coat I started having a harder and harder time getting good coverage. That is when I noticed the compressor's silence and lack of air pressure. The compressor had tripped it's thermal shutdown. The compressor is a Sears's 5 hp oil less with a 20 gallon tank. It is located in a sound proofed box outside the garage. Since there was inadequate ventilation for the compressor the beast got so hot that the plastic guards melted down over the compressor. What a sight. The tank was too hot to touch. After setting a fan blowing on the compressor it finally reset itself and came back to life. The compressor has a listed duty cycle of 50% which we exceeded greatly. Contributing factor was the insufficient cooling for the compressor. When painting think about your compressors health. I have a two stage 5 hp 60 gallon compressor at home so the thought never crossed my mind that I was taxing the compressor. The little guys need a rest every once in a while Gary Zilik RV-6A - almost ready to paint. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
Hi Hal, I just went through the same experience and I have talked to several spray gun manufacturers and paint shop professionals. Here's what I was told and what I bought. The two factors to consider in HVLP painting is SCFM rate and storage tank size. Typically your inexpensive HVLP gun will have a large compressor rating. Like the Sharpe Cobalt which needs 13.9 SCFM at 50 PSI. Your compressor will be rated somewhere in the manual or on the side of the tank. Mine, a single stage 220v/6HP vertical with a 60 gal tank, was rated at 12.5 SCFM at 40 PSI or 10.2 SCFM at 90 PSI. This made it marginal for the new Sharpe Cobalt gun I just bought. The only saving 'grace' was my tank size. With the Cobalt gun and a 60 gal tank, according to Sharpe, I would be able to spray for 2-3 minutes and then I would have to stop and wait for the compressor to catch up. The other factor to consider is cup size. Unless we're just painting small parts, the cups on these guns are just too small. If you're laying on primer over the whole fuselage or wing, typically 100-150 sq/ft each, then something in a bigger cup size is needed if you want to maintain a wet edge. Last, unless you have the fixtures to rotate your fuselage, you're going to have a difficult time painting the bottom of the fuselage with a gravity feed HVLP gun. All things considered, I took the Cobalt back and exchanged it for a Sharpe Pressure Pot System 5675. This is made up of 988HVLP Pressure feed gun, 2 liter remote pressure pot, and a pair of 6 foot connecting hoses. It was a bit pricey at $400 bucks, but it will spray anything without changing nozzles, in any position - including upside-down, only requires 7.5 SCFM at 50 PSI, and will paint my entire wing or fuselage without a refill. I bought a cheap mini HVLP for the small stuff. I figure I can pass this professional equipment on to another builder for a significant percentage of my cost when I'm done. Hope this helps, Bruce Glasair III builder Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > >This came from the recommendation of my local Sherwin Williams > >dealer ..... > > Just curious here...how do you know when a sales person is giving good > advice? I asked about a Sharpe spray gun at a dealer and the guy told me > my five HP compressor was much too small to paint an airplane with using > any gun. > > I don't think he is right. > > hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john schmidt" <jeschmidt(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 10/26/99
Date: Oct 27, 1999
>From: jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com (Randy Howard) >Subject: Re: RV-List: Question Answered, was Re: Question > > > > Mike Thompson > > Austin, TX > > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > > Wings > >This is a silly question I suppose, but how do you go >about reserving a number like you have? > >-- >Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com) > > Wed October 27, 1999 347pm CT Greetings: You mentioned getting an N number on the RV list I have two numbers on reserve, 218PJ and 4622T (personal reasons for having these two, don't want to get into it now. Hope to build two entirely different projects, RV6 and Something Else.) I would highly recommend calling Aero Records, a private title, escrow and registration company in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I've dealt with them much; they are incredibly knowledgeable, hard-working, and competent. They have access to all available N-number combinations, and can secure one much faster and more conveniently than dealing directly with the sloth FAA(and in some cases, it's not the FAA's fault; I've seen their operation in Oklahoma City, and it's underfunded and technologically backward). Aero Records 800 654 7202 I think, or look it up in directory assistance. They charged me (i think) $75. After that, it costs $10 per year to the FAA, from the anniversary date of issuance, to keep the registration number reserved in your name for your bird. Every year they (the FAA) send you a postcard, asking for another $10, per N number (my bill this year was $20). If I can be of any further help, please contact me. John Schmidt EAA 250021 RV6 N218PJ (reserved) slider, on the gear, progress SLOW. serial 23721 12985 N. 2nd Ave. Lindstrom MN 55045 651 257 8765 jeschmidt(at)hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rywessel(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Subject: 14V to 28V conversion
Surfing the web I have noticed some good avionics deals on the various auction sites. There seems to be an abundance of 28V models going for pretty fair prices. I have not bid on any of them yet, but there could be a few deals that I may want to take advantage of out there. Is there an inexpensive and reliable way to convert 14V aircraft voltage into 28V? ACS only lists 28V to 14V DC-DC converters. thanks, Robin Wessel RV-6A fuse Tigard, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com>
Subject: Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:25:11 -0500
Date: Oct 27, 1999
Jake L. Wegman (jake(at)ultrex.com) reminded me of the location on Vans site for the detailed information I was referring to. Check out http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/n58rv.htm for all the information you need on RV8 wings and spar integerty. Mike http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis/rv6_log ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
> >Last, unless you have the fixtures to rotate your fuselage, you're going to have >a difficult time painting the bottom of the fuselage with a gravity feed HVLP >gun. > >All things considered, I took the Cobalt back and exchanged it for a Sharpe >Pressure Pot System 5675. One good piece of advice I got from my dealer was to buy a small easily manuevered cup for the small stuff and the interior. The gun that I bought (Accuspray, also pretty pricey) is easily converted to use a pressure pot. The gun dealer recommended I purchase a cheap pressure pot from Harbor Freight (which he said would work just fine with the Accuspray) when I get to the exterior painting. Mike Wills RV-4 canopy willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 10/26/99
>Greetings: > >You mentioned getting an N number on the RV list > >I have two numbers on reserve, 218PJ and 4622T (personal reasons for having >these two, don't want to get into it now. Hope to build two entirely >different projects, RV6 and Something Else.) > >I would highly recommend calling Aero Records, a private title, escrow and >registration company in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I've dealt with them much; >they are incredibly knowledgeable, hard-working, and competent. They have >access to all available N-number combinations, and can secure one much >faster and more conveniently than dealing directly with the sloth FAA(and in >some cases, it's not the FAA's fault; I've seen their operation in Oklahoma >City, and it's underfunded and technologically backward). > > >John Schmidt >EAA 250021 >RV6 N218PJ (reserved) slider, on the gear, progress SLOW. >serial 23721 >12985 N. 2nd Ave. >Lindstrom MN 55045 >651 257 8765 >jeschmidt(at)hotmail.com I used the approach recommended previously, search using Landings for available numbers and then drop a note with a check for $10 in the mail. After all the negatives Ive heard about the FAA imagine my shock when I received confirmation of reservation of my first choice 1 week after I sent my check! Mike Wills RV-4 canopy; N144MW (reserved) willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Aileron Spars
Date: Oct 27, 1999
As I started to build my RV-8 ailerons I discovered that I had been shipped two right aileron spars, although they were identified as left and right. I requested a replacement left spar and Van's sent it. When it arrived it was identified as left spar, but was the same as the other two I already have. I now have three right spars. I am returning two of them and requesting a mirror image part which should be the left spar. The problem, I believe is, RV-8, drawing 13, Aileron (left). The drawing in the upper right hand corner of the spar is incorrect. It is identified as "AILERON SPAR REAR VIEW, FULL SCALE". It is not a view of the rear of the spar looking forward, it is a view of the front of the spar looking aft. (i.e. A-407 & A-406 bracket position, hidden lines defining edges of flanges) With that being the case, the left end view of the spar is backwards. (spar flanges should be pointing toward the left, not the right) If a person can read a blueprint, believes this is a rear spar view looking forward as titled, discounts the A-406 & A-407 positions and believes the left end view to be correct, they will misidentify right hand spars as left and you may have been shipped one too. If you haven't built your RV-8 ailerons yet take a look and see if you have one spar of each kind. This may also apply to other RV designs too. Rich Crosley Palmdale, CA RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: 14V to 28V conversion
post the question to: avionics(at)awpi.com Rywessel(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Surfing the web I have noticed some good avionics deals on the various > auction sites. There seems to be an abundance of 28V models going for pretty > fair prices. I have not bid on any of them yet, but there could be a few > deals that I may want to take advantage of out there. > > Is there an inexpensive and reliable way to convert 14V aircraft voltage into > 28V? ACS only lists 28V to 14V DC-DC converters. > > thanks, > > Robin Wessel > RV-6A fuse > Tigard, OR > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: HVLP painting
Okay, so how about a separate gravity feed pot (3-4 feet of line from the pot to the gun), kinda like those I.V. drip things at the hospital? You could make a stand on wheels as you move around the workpiece and could even make the pot big enough for the whole shoot session. Anybody tried this? just another hare-braind idea... from the PossumWorks Mark Phillips Mike Wills wrote: > > > > > >Last, unless you have the fixtures to rotate your fuselage, you're going > to have > >a difficult time painting the bottom of the fuselage with a gravity feed HVLP > >gun. > > > >All things considered, I took the Cobalt back and exchanged it for a Sharpe > >Pressure Pot System 5675. > > One good piece of advice I got from my dealer was to buy a small easily > manuevered cup for the small stuff and the interior. The gun that I bought > (Accuspray, also pretty pricey) is easily converted to use a pressure pot. > The gun dealer recommended I purchase a cheap pressure pot from Harbor > Freight (which he said would work just fine with the Accuspray) when I get > to the exterior painting. > > Mike Wills > RV-4 canopy > willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Spars
The aileron spars on the 6's are identical. The only difference being which end you designate at the root end. Gary Zilik > As I started to build my RV-8 ailerons I discovered that I had been > shipped two right aileron spars, although they were identified as left and > right. > > This may also apply to other RV designs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Oct 27, 1999
"Re: RV-List: 10% for Matronics & a challenge" (Oct 27, 11:36am)
Subject: Re: 10% for Matronics & a challenge
Dear John and Robin, This is wonderful! Thank you for your support! I really appreciate it. Best regards, Matt Dralle List Admin. >-------------- > >In a message dated 10/27/99 9:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes: > >> From now through the end of November 10% from any purchase from Builder's >> Bookstore can be set aside as a donation to Matronics (the folks who >provide >> this mailing list) to help keep the RV list operating throughout next year. >> >This is an excellent idea. We at AAMR/Aircore thank Matt for all he as done >to make these lists work. > >We will do the same as Builder Book Store. Please note in the comments >section of the order form that you are an RV LIST or any of Matt's other >Lists members and we'll donate 10% of your purchase price to Matt. > >Also please consider this to be a challenge to the rest of the businesses >that are users this list...Let's support Matt! > >e or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html > >Best regards, > >John & Robin Caldwell @AAMR/AirCore > > >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 how to drill center tube on sliding frame?
Date: Oct 27, 1999
>I believe the only way to drill the center bar (at the top >of the canopy) is to remove the canopy from the fuselage and drill it on the >bench where I can lean over it - or - stand it vertically on the forward >bar. >Am I on the right track or is there a reason to do it on the plane? I did it on the plane. It might be ok to do it on the bench, however even after its all riveted together it still has some flex, so you could be running the risk of building in some preload unless its set exactly how it will be on the plane. On the other hand... I know that at least a couple of people have left these rivets out altogether. This is of course a design change and I know nothing about what it does to the strength. But it might be worth looking into -- I think they look nicer without that top strip on there. Has anyone on the list done that? Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (40 hours) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Getting an N number
Date: Oct 28, 1999
I've read the posts about getting an N-Number and wanted to relate my experience. I called the "Sloth" FAA office in Oklahoma and told them I wanted a three digit number that stared with 1. About 2 minutes later the very nice FAA lady came back to me saying that I could have my pick from the following three choices. Hmm, Experimental 152 has a nice ring to it. So I took that one. Geez, I think anybody giving the FAA a bad rap about getting an N-Number should at least call them first. Oh... and they didn't charge me $75 for the service either. It was free (At least as long as Al Gore doesn't become president). cheers! Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX Registered N152 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: HVLP Painting and compressor ratings
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Hal (& others): One little item that can creep up as a "gotcha" on compressor power ratings is the old magic advertising hype. I have a Campbell & Hausfeld (spelling?) compressor set (from Wal-Mart, believe it or not) that has "5 HP" stickers on it. It also runs on 120V power, with a 15A max rating. The MOTOR nameplate (not the compressor) has "SPECIAL" entered in the horsepower rating block. My own calculations show that this motor is not likely to be more than 2 HP at most (15A X 120V X .85 power factor X 90% eff X 1HP/746W). The COMPRESSOR may be able to handle 5 HP input, but the MOTOR isn't providing that much. Bruce Gray and Bryan Files have both mentioned CFM ratings (and duty factor, for that matter) as being the real keys for evaluating whether a specific compressor will be likely to get the job done for you or not - they're right! The power rating can be deceiving... Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) - moved to the airport last weekend! (Still fitting the cooling baffles, though - if I ever find the Lycoming guy that claims to have designed the O-360 case, I'm going to beat him senseless for not making better provisions for baffle mounting!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Getting an N number( good FAA experience)
In a message dated 10/28/99 8:53:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, fesenbek(at)marykay.com writes: << I've read the posts about getting an N-Number and wanted to relate my experience. I called the "Sloth" FAA office in Oklahoma and told them I wanted a three digit number that stared with 1. About 2 minutes later the very nice FAA lady came back to me saying that I could have my pick from the following three choices. Hmm, Experimental 152 has a nice ring to it. So I took that one. Geez, I think anybody giving the FAA a bad rap about getting an N-Number should at least call them first. Oh... and they didn't charge me $75 for the service either. It was free (At least as long as Al Gore doesn't become president) >> I just received my reserved number. First did the Landings thing and searched to make sure the numbers were not in use. All five kicked back. Called the FAA and a very nice lady told me you can not always depend on the list, so she gave me the only 2 digit number followed by the to letters that I requested. Bernie Kerr, 6A, 60WM reserved, SE FLA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re:Alternators
>Why don't you want an automotive alternator with a built in voltage regulator? >There are many homebuilts that fly with these. I have one myself-bought it for >$100- its out of a Chevy Spectrum- 60 amp and very small. I have 2 1/2 years >and 300 hrs on it now with no problems. I'm pleased that your experience with built in regulators has been positive. However I'll ask that you please review: http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/bltinreg.pdf http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/failtoll.pdf http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/crowbar.pdf http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/bleadov.pdf Fly comfortable . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: HVLP Painting and compressor ratings
Bill Peck wrote: "I have a Campbell & Hausfeld (spelling?) compressor set (from Wal-Mart, believe it or not) that has "5 HP" stickers on it. It also runs on 120V power, with a 15A max rating. The MOTOR nameplate (not the compressor) has "SPECIAL" entered in the horsepower rating block. My own calculations show that this motor is not likely to be more than 2 HP at most (15A X 120V X .85 power factor X 90% eff X 1HP/746W). The COMPRESSOR may be able to handle 5 HP input, but the MOTOR isn't providing that much. Bruce Gray and Bryan Files have both mentioned CFM ratings (and duty factor, for that matter) as being the real keys for evaluating whether a specific compressor will be likely to get the job done for you or not - they're right! The power rating can be deceiving..." I have the Campbell-Hausfeld "6 hp" - 60 gallon model which is rated at 10.2 cfm @ 90 psi. The motor label also has "special" in the motor block space for hp. However, lower down on the right side of the plate is an "output" label which is listed, in this case, at 2.98kw. Dividing 2.98kw by 0.746kw/hp = 3.99hp, which is reasonable for the cfm of the unit. It is also listed as a "continous duty" motor which is something the small airless, ie; Sears, machines are not. So it pays to read the labels closely when buying a compressor. You will generally get what you pay for. The Campbell Hausfeld unit is by no means as good as an Ingersoll-Rand or other industrial unit, but it only cost $388 at Home Depot, and if it lasts the life of this project, it will have been cost effective. It is also a hell of a lot quieter than my Sears 3.5 hp airless that it replaced. Andy Johnson, wings. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
Subject: Flight Results
Performance results todate: RV6 with 160 hp and Aymar-Demuth 68 x 74 prop, no wheel fairings or pants. Test weight 1450 lb. TAS at 7000 feet , 2400 rpm - 175 mph / 2500 rpm - 185 mph TAS at 5000 feet, full throttle 2680 rpm - 198 mph ASI was tested against a calibrated unit in a chase plane Looking good so far. Regards Peter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Strobes:Mini Xenon Strobe
>Heads-up, J C Whitney has a mini xenon strobe rated at 1,000,000 cp, >12V, > >1/2 amp. 60 fpm, lexan lens, weatherproof housing, 1000 hr. life. > >I think this would qualify for aircraft use if above is true. > >$64.95. interesting? Conventional wisdom suggests that we avoid hassles and just go buy the TSO/PMA/STC item . . . HOWEVER, it just may be that your local bearer of government holy water would consent to the needed sprinkle if: Borrow a photo flash light meter from a friendly photographer. My personal favorite is the Gossen Luna Pro. Set up to measure flash output in the direct radiation mode (little white plastic window closed). Find a few airplanes with high-dollar, already blessed strobes on them and make some measurements using the hand held flash meter. Use a yardstick to hold uniform distance from the strobe head and make 8 measurments on the cardinal compass points in the horizontal plane. Repeat for 30 and sixty degrees above and below horizontal. Get some data on several installed, certified systems. Do the same thing with your proposed bootleg strobe. The lightmeter readings should be equal to or greater than those for the certified installations. Gross calibration of the lightmeter is not an issue . . . you're using it to compare one product with several others . . . we're looking only for readings equal-to-or-greater. When it comes time to sell your proposal to the cognizant authority, you'll have DATA to justify your proposition that the substitute strobe meets the spirit and intent of the rules and is therefore suited for use on an amateur built airplane. Yes, some of you may be anticipating some questions that could require some additional effort but give this a try for the first pass. If push comes to shove, I'll help with more detailed and tighter controls on the tests . . . but if your inspector is the least bit inclinded to favor good logic, this first pass I've suggeseted may be enough . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Getting an N number( good FAA experience)
Date: Oct 28, 1999
><< > I've read the posts about getting an N-Number and wanted to relate my > experience. > > I called the "Sloth" FAA office in Oklahoma and told them I wanted a >three > digit number that stared with 1. About 2 minutes later the very nice FAA > lady came back to me saying that I could have my pick from the following > three choices. > > Hmm, Experimental 152 has a nice ring to it. So I took that one. Geez, >I > think anybody giving the FAA a bad rap about getting an N-Number should >at > least call them first. Oh... and they didn't charge me $75 for the >service > either. It was free (At least as long as Al Gore doesn't become >president) > >> > > >I just received my reserved number. First did the Landings thing and >searched >to make sure the numbers were not in use. All five kicked back. Called the >FAA and a very nice lady told me you can not always depend on the list, so >she gave me the only 2 digit number followed by the to letters that I >requested. > >Bernie Kerr, 6A, 60WM reserved, SE FLA I had the very same experience. I went the snail mail route and submitted five requests. None of them were available, yet the Landings webpage database showed them to be available. I called a different guy at the FAA, and he had already picked out every number with "BD" on the end for me. Now THAT is what I call SERVICE. I simply chose one, and it was a done deal. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD rigging controls then off for Transition training with Jeff Ludwig! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Vendor web sites
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Listers, I came across this list of general aviation vendors exhibiting at the AOPA convention. It lists web address for most of the companies and might be a great reference to go along with the "yellar pages" Check it out at the following address: http://data.aopa2.org/expo/exhibitors.cfm Ed Cole RV6A Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Strobes:Mini Xenon Strobe
Electric Bob suggested: >Borrow a photo flash light meter from a friendly photographer. I'm messing with some very bright halogens and thinking of this demonstration which is just short of being there and seeing it. (you can observe a lot just by looking!) I will photograph several aircraft with strobes going and mine with my lights going. Will take some trial and error and I'll publish findings. >My personal favorite is the Gossen Luna Pro. Isn't it everyone's favorite? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Lord Mounts
Date: Oct 28, 1999
John: As I recently posted, the Lord p/n is J-9613-49. This is a direct replacement for the Barry 94011-20. Doug Weiler > My major goof...Working on too many planes at once. My 6 has a Dynafocal mount. > > Thanks > > JMP > > John Perri wrote: > > > > > Does anyone have the original number for the Lord Mts. used on the Van's > > Con. mount for an IO 360 ? Gettin droopy and alternator is wearing > > through. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Carburetors...
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Someone posted a few days back that they were looking for a MA4SPA carburetor.....I have two. The carburetors are disasebmlbed at this time but when you get one it will be togeather and look like a brand new carb that has just been overhauled with yellow tag. The part # is 10-3678-32. $1050.00 + shipping --- outright $650.00 + shipping with your old core Bryan E. Files Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: Strobes:Mini Xenon Strobe
> > I'm messing with some very bright halogens and thinking of this > demonstration which is just short of being there and seeing it. (you can > observe a lot just by looking!) > > I will photograph several aircraft with strobes going and mine with my > lights going. Will take some trial and error and I'll publish findings. The integration time of the eye is not the same as integration time for film. When you are comparing steady-state lights like the halogens with flashing strobes, what your eye perceives and what the film perceives might be quite different. Frankly I would go with testimonials from people estimating the relative brightness rather than trying to photograph it. OTOH I would bet that the film would favor the halogens over the strobes so if you are trying to "prove" that the halogens are better maybe photos would work well for you. -- Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com>
Subject: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
Hi Looking for any feedback on using the metal fixed pitch metal prop on a 0-320 160 hp engine. Particulatly interested in: 1) how restrictive is the 2600 rpm limit. It would seem that 100 rpm is a lot to give up. 2) performance differences between wood and sensenich props from those who have experienced flying with both on the same aircraft. Thanks, John Crate RV-6A Fuselage out of jig next week ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: buying used tools
I just PCS to Ft. Rucker and lost the shop I was sharing at Bragg, I'm looking for good deals on most used tools needed to build an RV. Carey Mills RV4 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Jon Johanson Award
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Thursday 28 October 99 MEDIA RELEASE URGENT- for immediate release ADELAIDE PILOT JON JOHANSON RECIEVES PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL AWARD AT LONDON BANQUET. Adelaide's record breaking pilot JON JOHANSON received the pretigious JOHNSTON MEMORIAL TROPHY FOR 1998 FROM THE GUILD OF AIR PILOTS AND AIR NAVIGATORS at an awards banquet at Guildhall in London just a few hours ago. Jon has been nominated for this award in recognition of his outstanding combination of self-confidence, persistence, determination and piloting/navigational skills in a series of world record breaking solo long distance flights in an aircraft built by himself. Jon built his RV-4 single engine, two seat, sport aircraft VH-NOJ and flew it twice around the world, once heading east and once heading west. Jon presently holds 43 world aviation records and numerous world firsts including the first pilot to solo the world's four major oceans. The Johnston Memorial Topy is international recognition for Jon's achievements. The trophy was first awarded by the Guild of Air Pilots and Air Navigators in 1931 to Sir Francis Chichester. Some other recipients include Bert Hinkler, Jean Batten an P G Taylor. The Terms of Reference for the award are:AWARDED IN MEMORY OF SQUADRON LEADER ERNEST JOHNSTON, FIRST DEPUTY MASTER OF THE GUILD AND NAVIGATOR OF THE R101, TO A PERSON OR PERSONS FOR THE MOST OUSTANDING PERFORMANCE OF AIR NAVIGATION,OR FOR THE AIRBORNE DEVELOPMENT OF NEW NAVIGATION TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT, OR FOR THE GROUND DEVELOPMENT OF NAVIGATION TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT. In acknowledging this prestigious award to an Australian pilot, Quantas ensured that Jon was able to be in London to receive the trophy in person. ----- "Thought this would qualify for the RV-List, what a guy what an aircraft." Eustace Bowhay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
Date: Oct 28, 1999
John, First of all I want to thank you for contacting me! The big compromise with the 2600 RPM restriction is in climb performance. We pitch the propeller (79 for 160 HP) so that you will hit 2600 RPM full throttle level flight at altitude...around 7000 to 8000 feet. What this does is give you about 2100 RPM static, and about 2250 on climb. This should yield a climb rate of 1200 FPM. On the cruise side, this propeller is extremely efficient and I feel safe in saying that RPM's being equal, is the most efficient cruise prop available! I think that is why we have sold over 350 to date. One person comes to mind when you ask for someone who has flown both the wood and the 70CM metal prop. His name is Gordon Comfort and I can assure you that he will give you an honest opinion, and I'm not even sure what that opinion will be. He will find that statement amusing I'm sure! He can be emailed at gcomfo(at)tc3net.com You may wish to get his phone number and discuss live, because he has a lot of data. Let me know if I can be of any assistance to you on your propeller selection. I realize that this is a lot of money your spending and I want to make sure that if we get it, you are happy! Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet Question
Bob, I'll see if I can't take a crack at this. I hope I don't confuse the issue more. "Pop" style rivets are fickle creatures. They do not always work the way we envision. Which is to say that they do not always pull up tight and fully plug the hole. The only recorse is to pop out the stem and drill out the rivet. But then we have the aggravation the the little Ba----ds want to spin in the hole so be ready with a pair of dikes to hold on to them. My choice for the critical areas such as you are speaking is to go the expensive route and get Cherry-Lok or Cherry-Max rivets. Yes they are expensive (about $.65 ea) but generally have a much higher percentage of setting correctly and are considered structural rivets with high shear loads. In either case make sure that the layers you are riveting together are tight before "pulling" the rivet. Otherwise you will almost always have a loose set. Good luck and good building Mike Robertson RV-8A QB Painting the interior In a message dated Wed, 27 Oct 1999 1:33:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Rob Reece" writes: > > I'm having some concerns with my common sense conflicting with my plans for > my RV-3, and was wondering if some of you other experienced RV dash-number > builders may be able to give me some advice/feedback. > > My ailerons skins on my -3 are .020 instead of the .016 depicted in the > plans. Where the overlapping single joint meets on the bottom of the > aileron there is a total thickness of .080 (.020 top skin, .020 bottom skin, > and .040 for spar = .080). Both my 1973 plans, and my post-1984 preview > plans depict 1/8" pop rivets, 1973 set= MD-424-BS (now equivalent to ?????), > and post 1984 set= CS4-4. Both rivet references appear to be to 1/8" > countersunk, with a grip of .188-.250 (for the CS4-4's anyway). I tested > some .188-.250 total grip self plugging pop rivets that were in the aileron > previously. Some seemed to grip/clamp tight, while some seemed to allow > some movement in the test pieces. > > Any recommendations besides just trying a 1/8" -2 countersunk rivet (hard to > find that are self plugging)? Only ones that seem readily available are the > MSP-42 that are 120 degrees vs. the 100 degrees and are not self plugging. > I'm willing to try anything that is 100 degrees countersunk with the right > grip (.063-.125 I guess), and self plugging. . . .any suggestions that I am > ignorant to are very much appreciated. > > Rob Reece > RV-3 SN45 > Socorro, NM > 505-835-3644 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Strobes:Mini Xenon Strobe
Date: Oct 28, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Strobes:Mini Xenon Strobe > >> >> I'm messing with some very bright halogens and thinking of this >> demonstration which is just short of being there and seeing it. (you can >> observe a lot just by looking!) >> >> I will photograph several aircraft with strobes going and mine with my >> lights going. Will take some trial and error and I'll publish findings. > >The integration time of the eye is not the same as integration time for >film. When you are comparing steady-state lights like the halogens with >flashing strobes, what your eye perceives and what the film perceives >might be quite different. Frankly I would go with testimonials from >people estimating the relative brightness rather than trying to >photograph it. > >OTOH I would bet that the film would favor the halogens over the strobes >so if you are trying to "prove" that the halogens are better maybe >photos would work well for you. > >-- >Brian Lloyd >Lucent Technologies >brian(at)lloyd.com >+1.530.676.6513 > The visual perception process of the eye is quite different than any integrating or peak-reading instrument, and way different than film. An example of clever engineering to take advantage of the eye's properties is the Whelen "Comet Flash". The Comet Flash principle takes advantage of the eye's integration time such that the eye/brain system automatically "connects the dots". The three brief duration, intense flashes appear to the eye as a continuous steak of light. When you observe one of these systems in marginal visibility along with a conventional system you begin to appreciate the safety edge afforded by the better engineered systems. Note that most of these advantages are not apparent by simple comparison of specs. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
I've got 230 hrs on my 6A with the 160hp and Sensenich prop... I am very happy with this setup.. I get a good climb out rate as well as fast cruise speeds, (190mph TAS) Cruising up high at full throttle usually gets around 2500rpm, so you do not have to worry about the 2600 rpm limitation much until you start descending. Walt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Getting an N number( good FAA experience)
> > > ><< > > I've read the posts about getting an N-Number and wanted to relate my > > experience. > > > > I called the "Sloth" FAA office in Oklahoma and told them I wanted a > >three > > digit number that stared with 1. About 2 minutes later the very nice FAA > > lady came back to me saying that I could have my pick from the following > > three choices. > > > > Hmm, Experimental 152 has a nice ring to it. So I took that one. Geez, > >I > > think anybody giving the FAA a bad rap about getting an N-Number should > >at > > least call them first. Oh... and they didn't charge me $75 for the > >service > > either. It was free (At least as long as Al Gore doesn't become > >president) > > >> > > > > > >I just received my reserved number. First did the Landings thing and > >searched > >to make sure the numbers were not in use. All five kicked back. Called the > >FAA and a very nice lady told me you can not always depend on the list, so > >she gave me the only 2 digit number followed by the to letters that I > >requested. > > > >Bernie Kerr, 6A, 60WM reserved, SE FLA > > I had the very same experience. I went the snail mail route and submitted > five requests. None of them were available, yet the Landings webpage > database showed them to be available. I called a different guy at the FAA, > and he had already picked out every number with "BD" on the end for me. Now > THAT is what I call SERVICE. I simply chose one, and it was a done deal. > The same happened to me. They were efficient! Peter Laurence > -- Peter Laurence RV6-A Wings plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Quick Build Primer
Message text written by Cash Copeland >I would like to know if I should seal the factory self etching primer or can I paint over it. I thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams Sunfire paint.< I just checked with my SW rep. He said the Sunfire is not compatible with the was primer that Vans uses and that you must prime with a Urethane primer over the wash primer. For those of you using the 988 (SW spray can) he said you do not have to prime or seal first. It is OK to scuff with 600 paper and spray the Sunfire. He did say that it is not as durable without a urethane primer or sealer and that the 988 is very absorbant and would not be as glossy as if it were sealed first. Scott A. Jordan 80331 seat backs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: daryl larson <larson(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: RV6 for sale
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote: > > > Good luck Jerry, > Send propective buyers this way if they need some good words. Received your > R50 today. I'll let you know once I have a chance to try it. > > Anh > > > > >I reluctantly have decided to sell my 6. Its the third of five homebuilts, > >(a Starduster Too, 3 RV6s and an RV8. Finished in august 94 TT 175hrs > >O-320E Lyc 160hp, Colin Walker wood prop. Has tilt up canopy, gyro panel, > >760Val, R50 loran, King 76a with encoder, nav lts, belly strobe and good > >cabin heat. Paint is a military scheme blue top white bottom invasion > >stripes and probably the only sharks mouth on a 6. I received builders > >choice at the 97 Oswego NY fly in and appeared on front cover of COPAs > >Canadian Flight monthly paper november 97. Asking low 50s US$. For more info > >and or pictures contact off list or at 506 472 0503. My 1st and 3rd RV6s are > >currently flying in the US. Photos can be seen at ( > >http://personal.nbnet.nb.ca/nielsdaj/Weyman/weyman.htm ) Will deliver for > >expenses. > >Regards Jerry Wilcox > >jawilcox(at)nb.sympatico.ca > > > > > So do you still have your RV-6 for sale dl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
Date: Oct 28, 1999
I sprayed the 988 and did not seal it...then I sanded with 600, then shot Sunfire...with a slight buff, you can shave in it...not a shine problem at all. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:27 PM Subject: RV-List: Quick Build Primer > >Message text written by Cash Copeland > >>I would like to know if I should seal the factory self etching primer or >can I paint over it. I >thought I might use RustOleum until I read the post on Sherwin Williams >Sunfire paint.< > >I just checked with my SW rep. He said the Sunfire is not compatible with >the was primer that Vans uses and that you must prime with a Urethane >primer over the wash primer. > >For those of you using the 988 (SW spray can) he said you do not have to >prime or seal first. It is OK to scuff with 600 paper and spray the >Sunfire. He did say that it is not as durable without a urethane primer or >sealer and that the 988 is very absorbant and would not be as glossy as if >it were sealed first. > >Scott A. Jordan >80331 >seat backs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Engine storage
I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it in the archievs. I am about to but a freshly overhauled O-360 for my RV-8. I don't expect to get the engine installed and running for the better part of two years. What should be done before removing the engine from its current airframe? How should it be stored? Thanks Scott A. Jordan 80331 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: IA/A&P in the SoCal area
Not RV related. Some potential partners and myself are looking to buy a cheap taildragger to build time on. We've got a line on a C140 based in Hemet that sounds promising. All we know is that it needs some work. Hope to have further info late tomorrow. We will be able to go up and take a look but since none of us are real familiar with what to look out for we wondered if there was an A&P or IA who would be willing to meet us there and help us out with a pre-buy inspection. Possibly as soon as this weekend. Anyone out there willing or anyone that you can recommend? Thanks, Mike Wills RV-4 canopy(still!) willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Getting an N number
What number did you call the one I have is always bussy? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
--- Ed Zercher wrote: > > > John, > > First of all I want to thank you for contacting me! > > The big compromise with the 2600 RPM restriction is > in climb performance. We > pitch the propeller (79 for 160 HP) so that you will > hit 2600 RPM full > throttle level flight at altitude...around 7000 to > 8000 feet. What this does > is give you about 2100 RPM static, and about 2250 on > climb. This should > yield a climb rate of 1200 FPM. On the cruise side, > this propeller is > extremely efficient and I feel safe in saying that > RPM's being equal, is the > most efficient cruise prop available! I think that > is why we have sold over > 350 to date. > > One person comes to mind when you ask for someone > who has flown both the > wood and the 70CM metal prop. His name is Gordon > Comfort and I can assure > you that he will give you an honest opinion, and I'm > not even sure what that > opinion will be. He will find that statement amusing > I'm sure! > > He can be emailed at gcomfo(at)tc3net.com > You may wish to get his phone number and discuss > live, because he has a lot > of data. > > Let me know if I can be of any assistance to you on > your propeller > selection. I realize that this is a lot of money > your spending and I want to > make sure that if we get it, you are happy! > > Ed Zercher John: I have a Constant Speed prop on my 160 HP RV-6. I fly with Walt Hastings (Rvator97(at)aol.com) N79WH that uses a 160 HP Sensenich on his RV-6A. His RV with the Sensenich prop, is the best fix pitched RV that I have flown with. This includes 180 HP RVs with fix pitched wood props. We (The 6 Pack, http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/album_2.html) flew as a flight from Southern California to Oshkosh. At any given airspeed, I was turning 40 RPM more than he was for the same airspeed. We both have digital tachs. In fact, I was usually asking him to slow down as I did not want to turn that high of an RPM and burn that much fuel. My RV-6 is not slow. If you check this years Copperstate Dash results, you will see that I was faster than one RV-6 that had a 180 HP. All the speeds are low as we had headwinds all the way. My airspeed during the Dash never dropped below 172 KTAS. Headwinds made the ground speed much lower. http://www.copperstate.org/Winners/Speed_Dash.htm The biggest advantage to the constant speed is that I can slow down, decend, and not go over REDLINE on the engine. Yes, Vx and Vy are better with the constant speed but you do not notice it unless you are flying in formation. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Kit Zwart" <zwart(at)kalamazoo.net>
Subject: O-360 Parts ID
Date: Oct 28, 1999
> -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:25 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > > Yes > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV-List: O-360 Parts ID > > > > > > Is this information good for the O-320 too? > > > > Steve Soule > > Huntington, Vermont > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > As you surmised, #2 is for CHT, but I believe > that the #1 > > ports are used > > for fuel injection & remain plugged if you have a carb. > You > > should find > > additional plugged 1/8 NPT ports on the aft, outside, > lower > > corner of each > > cylinder. These are normally used as primer ports, with > > maybe cylinder #3 > > having a manifold pressure connection instead of primer. > > > >I will be using the upper ports for each cylinder cht probes which are installed with a bayonet base, unless someone more knowledgeable than me has a reason not to. I would like to know. > > > --------- > > --------- > > --------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Beware AC$ Stencils
Or, call your nearest sign making company and get him to computer cut your stencils from low tack vinyl. It won't cost all that much and you'll be pleased with the results. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Left Elev (Wings Here) Bonnyville, Alberta Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Tim Lewis wrote: > > Listers, > > A warning to those doing their own painting: > > I bought a two sets of 3" N number stencils from Aircraft Spruce (Part > number 9-3280x). ACS sent 9 stencils that are essentially poor quality > masking tape with the letter/number precut. ACS sent one stencil (the > letter "T") that was a high quality vinly stencil. > > Despite the fact that I followed AC$'s directions to the letter, the poor > quality stencils were a disaster. The paint seeped under the edges of > the stencil, leaving a nasty, blotched edge. The single good quality > "T" stencil worked great... crisp, sharp edges. > > Recommendation: If you order your stencils from AC$ DEMAND the > high quality vinyl (white) stencils rather than the poor quality (light > brown) stencils. > > Tim > ****** > Tim Lewis > timrv6a(at)iname.com > N47TD RV-6A, painting > Springfield VA > http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a > http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Getting an N number
Aircraft Registry in OKC is (405) 954-3116. There is only one number so it is often busy and when you do get through please be prepared to wait a few minutes on hold. In a message dated Thu, 28 Oct 1999 9:14:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, TColeE(at)aol.com writes: > > What number did you call the one I have is always bussy? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann)
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Beware AC$ Stencils
Also keep in mind that many vinyl stencils are not compatible with solvent based paints unless the paint is sprayed on in very light coats. It is beetter to ask for frisket masks to be cut. Frisket is a special material and resists paints far better, is thinner, and easier to remove. I do this kind of thing for a living and there is just no substitute. Why not just use the vinyl lettering anyway? If properly applied to a wax free surface the high quality vinyl is good for 5-7 years. In my experience they last longer than that. You must ask for High Performance vinyl (3M is best). It should not lift or loosen. I don't recommend spraying any clearcoats over it either as they will likely not bond that well and might chalk. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
Scott Thanks for the info. After pricing the primer and Sunfire top coat I think this might be overkill for my airplane as I intend to upholster the sidewalls and carpet the floor. Would you check with your source and find out if the Sherwin Williams Acrylyd acrylic enamel will go over the quick build primer. Cash Copeland Rv6QB in a message dated 10/29/99 12:57:24 AM GMT Daylight Time, SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com writes: << I just checked with my SW rep. He said the Sunfire is not compatible with the was primer that Vans uses and that you must prime with a Urethane primer over the wash primer. For those of you using the 988 (SW spray can) he said you do not have to prime or seal first. It is OK to scuff with 600 paper and spray the Sunfire. He did say that it is not as durable without a urethane primer or sealer and that the 988 is very absorbant and would not be as glossy as if it were sealed first. Scott A. Jordan 80331 seat backs >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Subject: Re: Quick Build Primer
Paul Did you spray the 988 over the QB wash primer, or just on the parts that you fabricated? Cash Copeland RV6QB n a message dated 10/29/99 1:22:22 AM GMT Daylight Time, rv8er(at)home.com writes: << I sprayed the 988 and did not seal it...then I sanded with 600, then shot Sunfire...with a slight buff, you can shave in it...not a shine problem at all. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 1999
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Oops rivets
Listers: Just made my next big STUPID mistake. While dimpling the VS skin on the avery c frame tool, I pounded one dimple without the die centered in the hole. As a result, I have a 3/32 hole punched out by the die which is just barely but not quite touching the original hole. I caught myself before pounding enough to form the full dimple. It appears that the two holes are far enough apart to preclude drilling a #30 hole between them and using an Oops rivet (or even an AD4 flush rivet.) FWIW, the hole in question is on the front spar, 4 holes from the tip rib. Is there an Oops rivet with a 5/32 head and 3/32 or 1/8 shank? Or something similar which might save my skin? Any suggestions, short of a new VS skin? Jeff Point jpoint(at)execpc.com -6 tail Milwaukee, WI And the VS was going flawlessly, after the fits and starts on the HS. sigh........ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Jon Johanson Award
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Fellow Listers: Just a short comment on Jon's award. In August, my family and I traveled to Australia to spend some time with a very dear friend and RV-6A builder Ross Rebgetz. While visiting Ross in Townsville, QLD, Jon just happened to fly in for a visit in his RV-4. The next day we had morning tea with Jon and some of the other local homebuilders. We had a great morning and Jon was the life of the gathering, relating his many adventures of world-wide RV travel. I continue to marvel at his courage. He is most deserving of this award. Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI > > ADELAIDE PILOT JON JOHANSON RECIEVES PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL AWARD AT > LONDON BANQUET. > > Adelaide's record breaking pilot JON JOHANSON received the pretigious > JOHNSTON MEMORIAL TROPHY FOR 1998 FROM THE GUILD OF AIR PILOTS AND AIR > NAVIGATORS at an awards banquet at Guildhall in London just a few hours > ago. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com>
Subject: Oops rivets
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Look on my web page in the tips section, there is a little paragraph in there on filling holes in sheet metal that works fairly well. http://www.tabshred.com/moe/tips.htm Moe Colontonio moejoe3(at)home.com www.tabshred.com/moe While dimpling the VS skin on the avery c frame tool, I pounded one dimple without the die centered in the hole. As a result, I have a 3/32 hole punched out by the die which is just barely but not quite touching the original hole. Is there an Oops rivet with a 5/32 head and 3/32 or 1/8 shank? Or something similar which might save my skin? Any suggestions, short of a new VS skin? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Engine storage
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Aeroshell makes a preservitive oil that works well.... 1) Drain out engine oil. 2) Put in 7-8 qts of Aeroshell preserve oil. 3) Run engine for about 5-7 min on ground. 4) Drain preserve oil out. 5) DO NOT MOVE PROPELLER OR TURN OVER ENGINE UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO GO! ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 4:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Engine storage > > I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it in the > archievs. I am about to but a freshly overhauled O-360 for my RV-8. I > don't expect to get the engine installed and running for the better part of > two years. What should be done before removing the engine from its current > airframe? How should it be stored? > > Thanks > > Scott A. Jordan > 80331 > fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "et" <et(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Date, RV8 spar/fuel tank interaction
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Greetings All, Concerning previous thread on RV8 spar/ fuel tank interaction leading to failure. I saw this thread started a couple days ago about the interaction between the RV8 wing spar and the fuel tanks. Thought I would lurk around and wait for someone with some knowledge in this area to reply, but things ended here with reference to VANS official report. I have read the report, and checked the archives. The report says the metalurgist concluded no cracking or fatigue, but cause was G induced failure. Not much on this in the archives. How accurate is the analysis by the metalurgist?? I know a bit about engineering, as i am an electrical engineer, and have been designing telecom equipment for some 10 years. You simulate/calculate and then test, test, test. The gotchas are usally things like unexpected sub-system interaction or things you would never expect. I have absolutely NO practical knowledge in this area, although i have dealt with metalurgist before. I do have the tail kit which I bought after reading VANS RV8 test report, and am gathering tools and learning. ok, also almost done with PPL. Would someone with some experise in this area please comment. I will be inspecting my spars (what i can) at about 400 hr or sooner, even with all the data. Thanks, Eric Tauch ----- Original Message ----- From: Nellis, Mike <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 4:52 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:25:11 -0500 > > Jake L. Wegman (jake(at)ultrex.com) reminded me of the location on Vans site > for the detailed information I was referring to. > Check out > http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/n58rv.htm for all the information you > need on RV8 wings and spar integerty. > > Mike > http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis/rv6_log > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix
Date: Oct 28, 1999
Chris, Thanks for the information. I did talk to Vans and as you predicted they said not to worry about it. I am still a bit concerned about it though. I guess the first loop I do in my plane I'll have my heart in my throat! But, that would probably be the case anyway. Thanks again for the help. Ted -----Original Message----- From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 6:44 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix > >Ted, > >I went through this with my -6A. Tom at Vans explained that the firewall >bolts are compression joints, meaning the size of the hole is not critical. >Check the archives on this. He used the example of changing engine mounts, >in which you would likely have to open the holes up to get a new mount to >align. Tom said just to line it up as best you can and drill away. He >specifically said that no repair plates are necessary. > >Chris Browne >-6A finish >Atlanta >-----Original Message----- >From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump(at)mediaone.net> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 12:14 AM >Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Eng.-Mount Bolt Hole Fix > > >> >> I have just finished drilling my engine mount to the firewall on my >>RV-4. I had previously drilled 3/16 dia. undersize holes to attach it to >>the jig. When I first fit the engine mount I could see the holes did not >>line up perfectly with the mount, but it appeared that they would clean up >>if I used the mount as my drill guide. After finishing the drilling and >>removing the mount, much to my dismay I found that one of the holes did not >>clean up fully. About 1/8 of the 3/16 dia. hole is left. The offending >>hole is on the bottom right side of the fuselage. >> Anybody else have this problem? Any ideas on how to fix this? Is it >>really a problem? >> I have thought about trying to weld a reinforcing doubler to the steel >>weldment and redrilling, but it would be very difficult to weld down there. >>I thought about cutting off the 3/8 ID tube on the mount, welding in a 7/16 >>but I don't know how these bolts are loaded. >> What really makes me mad is that this is the first mistake I've made in >>5 years of building (if you believe that I've got a BD-5 kit I'd like to >>sell you). >> >>Thanks in advance, >> >>Ted >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
Ed, Thanks for the info but can you also address the recommended prop for the O-360 A1A. The recommended cruise pitch prop was 83 last year and now I have some information that an 85 pitch is being recommended. Can you clarify this for me (and I am sure other RV6 builders with O-360 installations) Thanks, Gary Palinkas Parma, Ohio RV6QB pluggin' away on control systems <<<<>>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: Stabiliser skin finish around dimples (RV-6)
I have just finished riveting the skins on to my stabiliser, no big problems - I actually used solids throughout. A couple of observations which might assist other builders. When riveting the spars etc where it is necessary to bend back the skin for bucking bar access, try and get additional help to support and keep the skin flat under the rivet snap, I didn't and I have a few minor crease's (bottom skin so not too concerned). I used a C-frame tool to dimple the skin, again get some help to support the skin, where you have to bend it back to gain access, this will keep the dimples really even, alternatively it is possible to use limited access dimples tools but it will not look the same. After riveting the skins these dimples looked superb. Also use the C-frame tool on all skin dimples, I used a pneumatic squeezer for the dimples at skin edges and after riveting you can notice that the dimples are in slight hollows (Anyone have any ideas on how to get these out, is this usual ?? my first thought is to use a rivet block on the skin and tap gently from underneath) I don't want to use filler. RV-6 Empennage David Roseblade UAE Persian Gulf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-6 aircraft in Seattle area
I am travelling to Seattle next week from the Persian Gulf to collect a Big Bird (Boeing). Are their any listers in the area who would be willing to let me have a look at their machines. I have just completed my stabiliser and as yet I have never seen a RV-6 in the flesh. Here's hoping ! RV-6 Empennage David Roseblade UAE Persian Gulf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Quick Build Primer
Date: Oct 29, 1999
> > After pricing the primer and Sunfire top > coat I think > this might be overkill for my airplane My SW dealer claims that Westhane is the same stuff as Sunfire, only marketed differently as a "econo" line (the SW web page does seem to indicate they have the same properties). He said one of his clients paints Coast Gaurd Sikorsky's with it, and the paint even lasts in a seawater environment. Can whomover posted that they have a knowledgeable SW rep confirm? Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Gary, The 83 pitch is still the preferred standard pitch for the RV-6/6A. Last year we did all of our testing on a 6 and a 6A and pretty well nailed that one down. Where the 85 pitch is coming into play is the RV-4's and RV-8's. We have several of each flying now and those aircraft with the 180 really seem to unload the prop a little more than the 6's. We have had very few customers change their 83 pitch on the RV-6/6A series. As you know, every aircraft and engine is a little different so a pitch tweak is always a possibility down the road; but those are few. Looking forward to working with you, Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Flight Results
Do you happen to have Manifold Pressure readings as well. RPM only tells half of the power story. A-D makes great props and it looks like you got a good one. Expect to see 5 to 8 more mph with the wheel pants installed. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "vondanes" <vondanes(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Getting an N number( good FAA experience)
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Anyone have the Oklahoma office number? -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Metalplane(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: ?Westach EGT Senders installation
I bought a Westach EGT/CHT off of a friend, but don't have the installation instructions. He can't remember the recommended distance from the exhaust port to drill for the EGT senders. Can someone email me a copy of the installation manual for the Westach dual EGT/CHT guage. If someone just knows the correct distance to drill for the EGT probes, I'd be happy. Thanks in advance! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Vanderzyde <jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net>
Subject: Bulk head F611
Date: Oct 29, 1999
I am building an RV6A, working on the fusalage skeleton. Do the flanges of the F-611 bulkhead face forward or aft? I have seen information both ways. John Vanderzyde jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: ?Westach EGT Senders installation
In a message dated 10/29/99 8:21:08, Metalplane(at)aol.com writes: I bought a Westach EGT/CHT off of a friend, but don't have the installation instructions. He can't remember the recommended distance from the exhaust port to drill for the EGT senders. Can someone email me a copy of the installation manual for the Westach dual EGT/CHT guage. If someone just knows the correct distance to drill for the EGT probes, I'd be happy. Thanks in advance! >> I don't remember the distance but was unable to achieve it with the crossover system anyway. Go as far from the engine as you can before the first bend on the shortest one, then match that distance on the others. This will give you as good as you can get with relative readings, and maximize probe life. One man's technique (acquired from those who went before me) D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
Date: Oct 29, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: John Vanderzyde <jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net> Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: Bulk head F611 > >I am building an RV6A, working on the fusalage skeleton. Do the flanges of the F-611 bulkhead face forward or aft? I have seen information both ways. > > >John Vanderzyde >jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net John, I suspect you mean the aft-most F612; F611 has a pair of back-to-back bulkheads. I installed my flanges aft per the George O tape so I could squeeze the rivets. I also wrapped the fuse skin around the bottom per the video. Others who have done it per plans and have seen mine prefer my (George's) way. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Fri, 29 Oct 1999 11:37:55.-0400(at)matronics.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
"Dennis Persyk" on 10/29/99 11:00:15 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Bulk head F611 -----Original Message----- From: John Vanderzyde <jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net> Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: Bulk head F611 Hi Dennis, I have not seen the video, can you elaborate on what you are talking about. Do you mean bringing the side skins lower on the tailcone piece? Thanks in advance Eric Henson Starting to skin >>> I also wrapped the fuse skin around the bottom per the video. Others who have done it per plans and have seen mine prefer my (George's) way.<<< Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Engine storage
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Scott: Searce for "engine inhibiting". I pluged all the holes & build 2-( 2bys) stands. one for right side up & one for unside down. Put 12 qts of auto oil in it & 4 deicator plugs. I store it up side down & roll it every 2 monts. The quick drain was replaced with a plug & the filler up tube was pluged with a rubber free plugs. STC'ed of course. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ========================================================== writes: > > >I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it in the >archievs. I am about to but a freshly overhauled O-360 for my RV-8. >I >don't expect to get the engine installed and running for the better >part of >two years. What should be done before removing the engine from its >current >airframe? How should it be stored? > >Thanks > >Scott A. Jordan >80331 >fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
I have seen them both ways. On mine I followed the plans and faced the flanges forward. I suggest to new builders the alternative of placing flanges rearward. Sure makes riveting the tailcone easier Gary Zilik John Vanderzyde wrote: > > I am building an RV6A, working on the fusalage skeleton. Do the flanges of the F-611 bulkhead face forward or aft? I have seen information both ways. > > John Vanderzyde > jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: O-360 Parts ID
All 4 cylinders are alike. Both ports (top & bottom) open into the intake port, so you can use either of them for priming or m.p. Engines are pretty easy to get along with. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: ?Westach EGT Senders installation
Date: Oct 29, 1999
It is usually about 3 inches down. Bryan Files Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska -4 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: <BumFlyer(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 6:44 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: ?Westach EGT Senders installation > > > In a message dated 10/29/99 8:21:08, Metalplane(at)aol.com writes: > > > I bought a Westach EGT/CHT off of a friend, but don't have the installation > instructions. He can't remember the recommended distance from the exhaust > port to drill for the EGT senders. > > Can someone email me a copy of the installation manual for the Westach dual > EGT/CHT guage. > > If someone just knows the correct distance to drill for the EGT probes, I'd > be happy. > > Thanks in advance! > >> > > I don't remember the distance but was unable to achieve it with the crossover > system anyway. Go as far from the engine as you can before the first bend on > the shortest one, then match that distance on the others. This will give you > as good as you can get with relative readings, and maximize probe life. > > One man's technique (acquired from those who went before me) > > D Walsh > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Subject: Re: ?Westach EGT Senders installation
Metalplane(at)aol.com wrote: > If someone just knows the correct distance to drill for the EGT probes, I'd > be happy. It isn't that critical but each probe should be the same distance from its respective exhaust port if possible (2" to 10" is probably OK) since the exhaust gasses are cooling as they travel down the exhaust pipe and you probably want consistent EGT readings from cylinder to cylinder. -- Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies brian(at)lloyd.com +1.530.676.6513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
JOHN the flanges face forward, plans 34 top left section good luck scott fuse tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com>
Subject: Stabiliser skin finish around dimples (RV-6)
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Dave, My experience with "fixing" cosmetic flaws in dimples by using the female half of a dimple set have all been bad! I recommend you chose one method of dimpling and stick with it throughout the project. As for existing dimples - I'd keep building - bigger hurdles lay ahead. I use my rivet gun with a pivoting male die and female die, block combination for all skin dimples with excellent results (pretty slow though). John Sheppard (RV8 tanks) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 7:17 AM Subject: RV-List: Stabiliser skin finish around dimples (RV-6) I have just finished riveting the skins on to my stabiliser, no big problems - I actually used solids throughout. A couple of observations which might assist other builders. When riveting the spars etc where it is necessary to bend back the skin for bucking bar access, try and get additional help to support and keep the skin flat under the rivet snap, I didn't and I have a few minor crease's (bottom skin so not too concerned). I used a C-frame tool to dimple the skin, again get some help to support the skin, where you have to bend it back to gain access, this will keep the dimples really even, alternatively it is possible to use limited access dimples tools but it will not look the same. After riveting the skins these dimples looked superb. Also use the C-frame tool on all skin dimples, I used a pneumatic squeezer for the dimples at skin edges and after riveting you can notice that the dimples are in slight hollows (Anyone have any ideas on how to get these out, is this usual ?? my first thought is to use a rivet block on the skin and tap gently from underneath) I don't want to use filler. RV-6 Empennage David Roseblade UAE Persian Gulf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: OK phone # Getting an N number( good FAA experience)
In a message dated 10/29/99 10:46:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, vondanes(at)email.msn.com writes: << Anyone have the Oklahoma office number? >> 405-954-3116 Bernie Kerr, 6A on wheels and engine mounted, 60WM reserved, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)a1.com.au>
Subject: List Server Humour - NOT RV-related - delete as appropriate.....
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Came across this t'other day..... With all the goings on recently I just had to post it....... Smile ........ and send your donations to the contribution fund....... Graham Jones Kilmore Aust... Q: How many list subscribers does it take to change a light bulb? A: 1,331: 1 to change the light bulb and to post to the list that the light bulb has been changed. 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs. 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs. 53 to flame the spell checkers 156 to write to the list administrator complaining about the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness to this mail list. 41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames. 109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and to please take this email exchange to alt.lite.bulb 203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar, alt.spelling and alt.punctuation about changing light bulbs be stopped. 111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts **are** relevant to this mail list. 306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique, and what brands are faulty. 27 to post URLs where one can see examples of different light bulbs 14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and to post corrected URLs. 3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs relevant to this list. 33 to summarize all posts to date, then quote them including all headers and footers, and then add "Me Too." 12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy. 19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three." 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ. 1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup. 47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion was meant for, leave it here. 143 votes for alt.lite.bulb. They forgot a few: 27 to post in HTML because they are using the IE or Netscape that had it turned on by default and are too clueless to look 48 to complain about the HTML posts 27 to post 'sorry I didn't realize it was on' -- in HTML 96 to complain about more HTML and post detailed instructions on how to change the setting 58 to mumble something about using a web browser to read mail 12 MIME posts with useless colors and bolds saying thanks for the help with the HTML mail 1 to post a GIF/JPG of the lightbulb hanging too close to their digital camera. 1 complaint from the guy using /usr/ucb/Mail who wants to know what the *@&(%$!@ has been going on 58 to complain about the binary post 74 to say they liked the binary and didn't mind it 1 post about how you can MAKE MONEY FAST!!!!! by selling lightbulbs and this report available for only $5. 1328 to reply to the list with the full spam attached and then put 'remove' at the end 3 to flame the other morons for replying to the spammer and CCing the list 1 from the list admin notifying that the list is looking for a bigger server to handle the load There have now been several followups: "How did I get on this list?" "How do I get off this list?" "REMOVE" "REMOVE UNSUB SIGNOFF REMOVE TAKE ME OFF THIS LIST" "unsubribe" [sic] "Morons, you have to send it to the majordomo address" "How am I supposed to know that?" If it wasn't so pitiful, it would be funny. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Parker43rp(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: RV-6A for sale
A friend of mine who is not on the list is offering his beautiful RV-6A for sale. The workmanship on the aircraft is outstanding. TTAF-187 150 HP Metal Sensenich Prop Terra com, Transp-mode-C Trimble GPS VFR panel w/shock-mounted gyros Imron blue over white Owner can be contacted for particulars at: ajsrv6a(at)juno.com or (303) 412-6913 Ray Parker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Used tools
Will the person looking for used tools please respond again. I lost his e-mail address. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: RV-6 aircraft in Seattle area
Date: Oct 29, 1999
> >I am travelling to Seattle next week from the Persian Gulf to collect a Big >Bird (Boeing). Are their any listers in the area who would be willing to let >me have a look at their machines. I have just completed my stabiliser and as >yet I have never seen a RV-6 in the flesh. > >Here's hoping ! > >RV-6 Empennage >David Roseblade >UAE Persian Gulf > If you have the time visit Van's Aircraft in Oregon. It's about 180 miles south of Seattle. Or, visit the Arlington Airfield north of Seattle about 40 miles. There are at least 15 RV's on the field, -3,-4,-6,-6A and I think an -8. Just drive around the hangars and see what you can find. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA http://members.home.net/ammeterj/ 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Propane Engine Preheater
From everything I've read, it's best to preheat a Lycoming below 30*F. I'd like something I can use regardless of whether my hanger (or tie down) has electricity, and that I can use while traveling. So far the $288 Red Dragon MH-300 looks like the best bet ( http://www.flameeng.com/Red_Dragon_Heaters.html ). The 49,000 BTU heater runs off propane and 12 v to run fan. According to the company, it takes 10-15 minutes to preheat an engine from 0*F, with minimal drain to the battery. I can apprently use a Barbeque-size LP gas container at home, and those little 14oz propane tanks (using an adapter) while flying around the country. Does anybody know of a better solution? Tim ****** Tim Lewis timrv6a(at)iname.com N47TD RV-6A, painting Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ITZSTEVEJ(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Used tools
I'm not the one you talked to before but i am an A&P who is working on getting a RV-6 project started soon, and i"m always interested in tools of the trade so if you don't get a response give me a e-mail at ITZSTEVEJ(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stabiliser skin finish around dimples (RV-6)
Guys here is a good idea to ease your mind when you accidently punch a hole in the stab skins with the c-frame. go ahead and deburr the hole first and install the skins rivet them on as you normally would you will still have a hole where you messed up no big deal just mix up some proseal and seal the hole with it and use a squegee to get aerodynamically smooth or a popsicle stick and then use mek or coleman fuel acetone whatever to clean up the mess from around the hole and whalaa you have a clean skin for paint Glenn Williams 8a wings and a&p mechanic hope this helps --- David Roseblade wrote: > > > I have just finished riveting the skins on to my > stabiliser, no big > problems - I actually used solids throughout. A > couple of observations which > might assist other builders. > > When riveting the spars etc where it is necessary to > bend back the skin for > bucking bar access, try and get additional help to > support and keep the skin > flat under the rivet snap, I didn't and I have a few > minor crease's (bottom > skin so not too concerned). I used a C-frame tool to > dimple the skin, again > get some help to support the skin, where you have to > bend it back to gain > access, this will keep the dimples really even, > alternatively it is possible > to use limited access dimples tools but it will not > look the same. After > riveting the skins these dimples looked superb. > > Also use the C-frame tool on all skin dimples, I > used a pneumatic squeezer > for the dimples at skin edges and after riveting you > can notice that the > dimples are in slight hollows (Anyone have any ideas > on how to get these > out, is this usual ?? my first thought is to use a > rivet block on the skin > and tap gently from underneath) I don't want to use > filler. > > RV-6 Empennage > > David Roseblade > UAE Persian Gulf > > > > > > Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of > List members. > > > Matronics: > http://www.matronics.com > RV-List: > Archive Search Engine: > http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/other > > > > > ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Stabiliser skin finish around dimples (RV-6)
David; Tapping gently is the key word, otherwise you may (will) stretch the skin, resulting in localized oil canning and a much more difficult fix. I, of course, have no first hand knowledge of this phenomenon. HCRV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List:Hartzell propeller numbers
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Hello fellow RV 'ers, I am working on the fuselage of a RV-6A and I have not yet purchased a propeller for my 0-320 engine. I am leaning toward the fixed pitch metal Sensenich , but of course I would love to find a C/S for a good price. The problem that I could use some help with is the interpreting of Hartzells model numbers. For example, HC-C3YR-2UF with a serial number of CK3482 and Blades numbered FC7451. Any help in explaining Hartzells I.D. system would be appreicated. David Ahrens ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Used tools
It would be me, Carey Mills in Daleville, AL. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: Mice
Here's a new one for the list. Anyone have a problem in their hangers with mice? If yes, how do you deal with them? Several people at my airport have had problems and I'm trying to figure a way to keep the little rodents out of my airplane. Any suggestions? Bill Pagan N565BW "The original RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
In a message dated 10/29/99 8:55:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net writes: << I am building an RV6A, working on the fuselage skeleton. Do the flanges of the F-611 bulkhead face forward or aft? I have seen information both ways. >> On mine the F-611A flanges face forward and the F-611B flanges face aft. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Propane Engine Preheater
Date: Oct 29, 1999
I'm a proponent of electric oil pan or Tanis-type heaters. I live in northern Wisconsin and it gets seriously cold. I have an Easy-Heat system in my Citabria. When it gets below 30 degrees, I wrap up the cowling in a big moving blanket and leave it plugged in all the time (in the hangar). I have measured the free air temp above the cylinders at 50 degrees when the OAT has been near zero. Cheap and works great. Doug Weiler Hudson, WI > >From everything I've read, it's best to preheat a Lycoming below 30*F. > I'd like something I can use regardless of whether my hanger (or tie > down) has electricity, and that I can use while traveling. So far the > $288 Red Dragon MH-300 looks like the best bet > http://www.flameeng.com/Red_Dragon_Heaters.html ). The 49,000 > BTU heater runs off propane and 12 v to run fan. According to the > company, it takes 10-15 minutes to preheat an engine from 0*F, with > minimal drain to the battery. I can apprently use a Barbeque-size LP > gas container at home, and those little 14oz propane tanks (using an > adapter) while flying around the country. > > Does anybody know of a better solution? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Metalplane(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 1999
Subject: Re: ?Westach EGT Senders installation
Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Jon Johanson Award
Date: Oct 29, 1999
I forgot to mention that the trophy was presented to Jon by Prince Philip the Queens husband. Eustace Bowhay ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Hartzell propeller numbers
>................................................ but of course I would >love to find a >C/S for a good price. Forget it. I hunted for a good used CS prop to no avail. Finally, I asked a used prop dealer what would work for a RV6 and he said the market for them is so strong that a new one from Van's is a much better deal. (No one goes there any more, it is too crowded.) hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 1999
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Bulk head F611
Hello John Vanderzyde, If I read your question correctly: The fuse bulkhead "f-611" you refer to is made up of two parts called out as f-611/A and f-611/B on the top center of DWG 28. the resulting assembled bulkhead has flanges facing forward and aft. the F-611/A (The larger of the two) Faces forward in my RV6A fuse. It took a bit of finessing to get the flanges to fit so that the skins fit smoothly over them. This area sure is fun to rivet! happy fitting. jim - Kelowna BC. fiting fuse top skins. > >I have seen them both ways. On mine I followed the plans and faced the flanges forward. I suggest to new builders the alternative of placing flanges >rearward. Sure makes riveting the tailcone easier > >Gary Zilik > >John Vanderzyde wrote: > >> >> I am building an RV6A, working on the fusalage skeleton. Do the flanges of the F-611 bulkhead face forward or aft? I have seen information both ways. >> >> John Vanderzyde >> jvanderzyde(at)gtn.net >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List:Hartzell propeller numbers
In a message dated 10/29/99 7:26:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time, daviddla(at)juno.com writes: << The problem that I could use some help with is the interpreting of Hartzells model numbers. For example, HC-C3YR-2UF with a serial number of CK3482 and Blades numbered FC7451. >> HC is Hartzell Controllable, C is standard hub, 3 is three blades, Y is the blade shank, R is 4.75" bolt circle of six 1/2" bolts for Lyc, 2 is feathering oil pressure to lower pitch, U is the spring assy in the cylinder and F is large pitch change fork, knob. This is from pages 216 thru 218 in the Hartzell Manual 115N Dated 01/99. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rohan Lloyd" <rlloyd(at)northnet.com.au>
Subject: HVLP Vs ??
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Lister's, with all this talk of HVLP, could some one give me a site or quick explanation as too what are the mechanical differences between the 2 sorts of guns?? RV-6 Half Winged (OZ) Rohan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 1999
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: HVLP Vs ??

October 23, 1999 - October 29, 1999

RV-Archive.digest.vol-he