RV-Archive.digest.vol-hf
October 29, 1999 - November 07, 1999
Here's a couple,
http://www.autobodystore.com
http://www.sharpe1.com
Bruce
Glasair III builder
Rohan Lloyd wrote:
>
> Lister's, with all this talk of HVLP, could some one give me a site or quick
> explanation as too what are the mechanical differences between the 2 sorts
> of guns??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | oil temp sender/gauge |
I have a Mitchell oil temp gauge and sender (sender made by VDO actually).
Have been experiencing low oil temp readings and progressively blocking off
more and more of the cooler. Finally before blocking more off I decided to
check the sender/gauge. Heated up some water to boiling and stuck the sender
in. 200' above sea level should be about 210 degrees, right? Only reads 175.
I made sure the sender was grounded well (didn't work without that on the
first try). Checked the voltage as I know that could affect it, battery was
putting out 12.5 volts.
So my questions: are there other factors that could affect it besides the
sender and the gauge? Which is the likely culprit? How do I approach this
with the vendor (ACS) -- try for a new sender or gauge or what?
Unfortunately the gauge is marked per my spec (the engine spec actually) so
any new one would have to be custom marked as well. Not looking forward to
getting them to make good on this especially since the gauges are over 2
years old even though they've only been in service for 2 months. Mitchell
starts the warranty when you get it, not when you start using it
unfortunately. Suggestions? (And no, "get an EI gauge" is not what I'm
looking for -- the gauge is one of those little square cluster gauges, and
I'm not too interested in cutting new holes in my panel at this point!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (40 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson Award |
<<< Adelaide's record breaking pilot JON JOHANSON
received the pretigious
> JOHNSTON MEMORIAL TROPHY FOR 1998 FROM THE GUILD
OF AIR PILOTS AND AIR
> NAVIGATORS at an awards banquet at Guildhall in
London just a few hours
> ago.
>
> "Thought this would qualify for the RV-List,
what a guy what an aircraft."
>
>
> Eustace Bowhay>>>
Thanx Eustace for the good news. I was talking
with Jon last Monday, and he said he was off to
London for a week. My mind immedialy thought,
"wonder what he's up to?"....now I know.
The award could not go to a better ambassador for
the GA homebuilt fraternity, RV's in particular.
BTW, NOJ goes like a rocket with the Aerosport
engine.
Cheers,
Ken G Hunter Valley Australia RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
There are really 6 (or more) types of guns.
They can be broken down by the method of paint delivery to the gun.
Gravity Feed, Siphon Feed, and Pressure Feed
All three come in two flavors. HVLP and conventional. This defines the method the
gun uses to atomize the paint and apply it to the surface.
Read some of the articles on the web sites I posted. You too can become an
expert.:)
Bruce
Glasair III builder
>
> Rohan Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> > Lister's, with all this talk of HVLP, could some one give me a site or quick
> > explanation as too what are the mechanical differences between the 2 sorts
> > of guns??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
Bill,
Mice can be a very serious problem around airplanes.
They are coming for food, water and shelter. People need to clean out the
crackers and cookies, stop drippy faucets, rake up and burn any trash.
When weather turns cold they will make a concentrated effort to get
themselves set up for the winter so you don't want to waste time.
Poisons and baits are effective but can cause odors from the decaying
bodies, which themselves can be a problem inside control surfaces. Sadly
enough, the cruel glue traps are therefore the best answer in that
direction.
On the farm we kept a hognose snake in the dairy barn but some people might
not take to that, and as soon as the mice population goes down it will
leave, or starve if you have confined it.
Cats get pawprints and hair all over the planes and most are too lazy to
chase a mouse. Thank 20 generations of Meow Mix.
Good luck,
Karen Gooding
(the bucking bar queen)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Listers,
Does anyone have an address or phone number for NAT (Northern Airborne
Tecnologies)?
The are the manufactuers of Intercom systems.
Yes, I've looked in the Yellar Pages and in the archives, and Alta
Vista..............
Thanks,
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
email me at work bnoel(at)omniflight.com and I will forward any info you need,
we put alot of these in our helicopters - good units.
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Address
>
>Listers,
>Does anyone have an address or phone number for NAT (Northern Airborne
>Tecnologies)?
>The are the manufactuers of Intercom systems.
>Yes, I've looked in the Yellar Pages and in the archives, and Alta
>Vista..............
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Cole
>RV6A Finishing Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: electrical problem |
>Did you happen to notice the ammeter while in the air. If it is showing a
>high rate of charge after a 'lap' or two around the pattern, then I'd look
>at your battery. A dying battery will pull a lot of current from the
>alternator. If this is the case, then all the current from the alternator
>will heat up the circuit breaker until it trips.
Batteries with a shorted cell change from a 12v to a 10v battery
and will indeed draw lots of extra current while being "charged"
from a 14v bus. Shorted cells result from a pile-up of flakey,
conductive material shed from the plates . . . which normally
fall harmlessly to the bottom of the cell cavity. Back in the
good ol' days, a deep pile of this flakey stuff would get too
deep and short a cell. There are a few, even more rare failure
modes of the separators between plates that can produce shorted
cells. Shorted cells in modern flooded batteries is extremely
rare and you woul notice it immediately in poor cranking performance
and dim lights with the alternator off. Further, a battery with
a shorted cell is likely to be so old that its useful service
life is long since passed.
Most (99.99%) of battery failures manifest themselves in poor
cranking performance and what appears to be a very rapid recharge
time after the engine starts. The time and amplitude of ammeter
"charge" indication after startup is directly related to the
battery's capacity and internal resistance. As capacity goes
down, resitance goes up and apparent charging time and amplitude
will both go down too.
In the instance under discussion, I don't belive this is the case.
>A friend of mine replaced the left position light after crunching into a
>hanger door. Got the part from the same make and model year complete with
>lamp. Flew several months before going at night. After that flight, he
>noticed the circuit breaker for the nav lights had tripped. Reset the
>breaker and thought nothing of it until the next flight. 'POP'
>
>He asked me to look into it. We pulled the wingtip and looked for chaffed
>wires; nothing. Looked at the holder, clean. Then looked at the lamp.
>Nothing note worthy. Looked at the right side. Nothing out of the
>ordinary their either.
>
>Then I noticed something; then left lamp was a 26 watt lamp. The right was
>a 20 watt lamp. Assuming that all nav lights were 20 watts in a 12 volt
>airplane, that makes 5 amps. The nav light breaker is a 5 amp breaker. Add
>6 watts to the mix and you 5.5 amps.
>The circuit breaker would not pop right away. It took about 15 minutes for
>it to get hot enough to trip.
The breaker was undersized . . . the minimum breaker size for nav
lites in a 14v airplane is 7.5 amps. Breakers and wiring used
to plumb the system should be selected with enough headroom
to INSURE NO NUISANCE TRIPS . . . I've written before about
breakers designed to nuisance trip in the form of a 60A breaker
on a 60A alternator . . . the writer has just identified another
one.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender/gauge |
>
>I have a Mitchell oil temp gauge and sender (sender made by VDO actually).
>Have been experiencing low oil temp readings and progressively blocking off
>more and more of the cooler. Finally before blocking more off I decided to
>check the sender/gauge. Heated up some water to boiling and stuck the sender
>in. 200' above sea level should be about 210 degrees, right? Only reads 175.
>I made sure the sender was grounded well (didn't work without that on the
>first try). Checked the voltage as I know that could affect it, battery was
>putting out 12.5 volts.
The least expensive thing to try is replace the sender. Actually,
if you know the VDO number for the sender, you can get the
sender's specs from an VDO catalog . . . a couple of resistance
versus temperature check points would let you confirm the
sender's condition. I kind of doubt it's the instrument . .
they seldom "drift" that much in calibration. If all the other
gages in the cluster are reading okay, it suggests that the supply
voltage to the cluser is okay . . . try a new sensor.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 9:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mice
>
>Here's a new one for the list.
>Anyone have a problem in their hangers with mice? If yes, how do you deal
>with them? Several people at my airport have had problems and I'm trying
>to figure a way to keep the little rodents out of my airplane.
>Any suggestions?
>
>
>Bill Pagan
>N565BW
>"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
Standard fix is to fill a couple of socks with moth balls and put the socks
in the cabin and baggage compartments of the plane. A half dozen boxes of
Decon around the inside perimeter of the hangar will help.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
RV list
| Subject: | Atlanta area listers |
I'll be in the NE Atlanta area next Tu & Wed. Is there anyone in the
area with a rotary project or RV that wouldn't mind a visit in the
evening?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Ed,
NAT. is just five minutes down the road from me. the address etc:
Northern Airborne Technology Ltd.
14-1925 Kirschner Rd.
Kelowna BC. Canada
V1Y 4N7
Phone-250-763-2232
Fax-250-762-3374
jim in kelowna, skinning top of fuse
>
>Listers,
>Does anyone have an address or phone number for NAT (Northern Airborne
>Tecnologies)?
>The are the manufactuers of Intercom systems.
>Yes, I've looked in the Yellar Pages and in the archives, and Alta
>Vista..............
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Cole
>RV6A Finishing Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Quickbuild Kit |
Fellow Subscribers:
I have an RV-6A Quickbuild kit for sale. I purchased it in June and barely
started interior work only. Due primarily to job duty changes which have
doubled my travel, I decided to just purchase a completed airplane instead.
I flew it home from Portland over the Labor Day weekend.
The fuselage has been uncrated so shipping the kit to a buyer will not be
possible. The wings have not been uncrated.
If you have any interest in it I can be reached at 714-674-8412 during the
workweek, or at 714-985-1979 evenings. Or, if you prefer you can e mail me
at cteater(at)aol.com. Incidentally, I reside in the suburban LA area.
Chuck Teater
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain Instrument Micro Monitor |
I have a completed microMonitor for sale. Construction, burn-in and checkout
have all been completed and it tests to factory specs, however, it has never
been installed and used. I originally planned to use it in the 6A I was
building, but I gave up on that project and bought a completed airplane
instead.
If you're interested I can be reached at 714-674-8412 during the work week,
or at 714-985-1979 evenings. If you prefer e mail please send a message to
cteater(at)aol.com.
Chuck Teater
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
One simple solution to the mice problem is to take some 10 inch aluminum and
form a coller that is placed around the wheels and landing gear . The mice
can not climb up the aluminum so they can not get into the aircraft...George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propane Engine Preheater |
Tim,
In the old days, I used the gas fired heaters on my airplanes and at the
FBO where I worked part time. I always considered them a pain. When it is
very cold out (Nebraska cold) there is a tendency to rush the job. There
is also a chance of burning paint, burning plane, etc. Also, I'd just as
soon not travel with compressed gas in the cockpit and, in fact, this
probably violates some FAR.
On my last 3 airplanes, including the RV6, I had plug in heaters on the
sump (RV6 and 1948 Cessna 170) and on the Cub, a Tannis heater. I found
that, when traveling, I could always get next to a plug in or get inside.
When I lived in NE., I had a timer that controlled both the engine heater
and a little quartz heater
that I placed in the baggage compartment. It was great to climb into a
warm cockpit, with soft seats (if you have Temperfoam seats), a warm
battery and a warm engine. It is surely more convenient to set a timer
than to arrive at a cold airport and mess around with propane or kerosene
heaters. Of course, you have to know when you're going flying for the
timer deal to work.
I used to leave the airplane plugged in all of the time, as Doug does
with his Citabria, when I had my Cub. One day, I decided to install some
new, silicon valve cover gaskets. When I removed the covers, I found
condensation in the cylinders. Probably not a problem if the aircraft is
flown regularly but could lead to rusting if not flown. I discontiued the
practice after this discovery.
Of course, if you have no juice, none of the above applies, but I thought
maybe others could benefit from the discussion.
Regards,
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
>>From everything I've read, it's best to preheat a Lycoming below 30*F.
> I'd like something I can use regardless of whether my hanger (or tie
>down) has electricity, and that I can use while traveling. So far the
>$288 Red Dragon MH-300 looks like the best bet (
>http://www.flameeng.com/Red_Dragon_Heaters.html ). The 49,000
>BTU heater runs off propane and 12 v to run fan. According to the
>company, it takes 10-15 minutes to preheat an engine from 0*F, with
>minimal drain to the battery. I can apprently use a Barbeque-size LP
>gas container at home, and those little 14oz propane tanks (using an
>adapter) while flying around the country.
>
>Does anybody know of a better solution?
>Tim Lewis
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>N47TD RV-6A, painting
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
Bill,
How about three pieces of .016" aluminumabout 8-10 inches tall, rolled to
encircle each tire? You could fasten them together with piano hinge on the
inside. Or, you could have a heating/airconditioner shop bend edges that
interlock like ductwork?
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
>
>Here's a new one for the list.
>Anyone have a problem in their hangers with mice? If yes, how do you deal
>with them? Several people at my airport have had problems and I'm trying
>to figure a way to keep the little rodents out of my airplane.
>Any suggestions?
>
>
>Bill Pagan
>N565BW
>"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/30/1999 6:29:23 AM Central Daylight Time,
GOODING(at)hargray.com writes:
<< Poisons and baits are effective but can cause odors from the decaying
bodies, which themselves can be a problem inside control surfaces. Sadly
enough, the cruel glue traps are therefore the best answer in that
direction.
On the farm we kept a hognose snake in the dairy barn but some people might
not take to that, and as soon as the mice population goes down it will
leave, or starve if you have confined it.
>>
One tried and true method is to get some "tobacco bags", like Bull Durham
came in, or, as they now call them, "parts bags". A number equal to the
number of wheels on your airplane. Fill them with moth balls, and tie one at
the top of each gear leg. Mice don't like the smell, and steer clear. If
there is room to stuff the bag just inside the wing/fuselage area that the
leg sticks out of, it's even better!
Thoughts of an O.F.
Ed Woerle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propane Engine Preheater |
Tim,
We have preheaters in stock here for about $375.00. They run off a MSR
stove and work quite well. The problem that we find with the Red Dragon is
that it takes a lot of room. Weighs a lot. You also end up with a warm
engine but a dead battery. The MSR heaters have a pan to heat water or
food. They are light weight fold up into a small package and best of all
they do not use a battery. This design has been proven in here in Alaska
and was built in Alaska. Makes a great peice of survival gear also.
Bryan Files
Ever Fly Maintenance
PAlmer, Alaska
-4 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 3:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Propane Engine Preheater
>
> >From everything I've read, it's best to preheat a Lycoming below 30*F.
> I'd like something I can use regardless of whether my hanger (or tie
> down) has electricity, and that I can use while traveling. So far the
> $288 Red Dragon MH-300 looks like the best bet
> http://www.flameeng.com/Red_Dragon_Heaters.html ). The 49,000
> BTU heater runs off propane and 12 v to run fan. According to the
> company, it takes 10-15 minutes to preheat an engine from 0*F, with
> minimal drain to the battery. I can apprently use a Barbeque-size LP
> gas container at home, and those little 14oz propane tanks (using an
> adapter) while flying around the country.
>
> Does anybody know of a better solution?
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> N47TD RV-6A, painting
> Springfield VA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Hartzell propeller numbers |
That propeller is a 3 blade propeller.
Department of Transportation
Federal Aviation Administration
P25EA
Revision 11
HARTZELL
()HC-C3Y
December 18, 1995
TYPE CERTIFICATE DATA SHEET NO. P25EA
Propellers of models described herein conforming with this data sheet (which
is a part of Type
Certificate No. P25EA) and other approved date on file with the Federal
Aviation Administration, meet
the minimum standards for use in certificated aircraft in accordance with
pertinent aircraft data sheets
and applicable portions of the Federal Aviation Regulations provided they
are installed, operated and
maintained as prescribed by the approved manufacturer's manuals and other
approved instructions.
Type Certificate Holder
Hartzell Propeller Inc.
Piqua, Ohio 45356
(See NOTES Section)
Type
Constant speed, hydraulic ( see NOTES 3 and 4)
Engine shaft
Special flange ( see NOTE 1)
Hub material
Aluminum alloy
Blade material
See below
Number of blades
Three
Hubs eligible
HC-C3YF-1, -2, -4, -5; EHC-C3YF-1, -2; PHC-C3YF-1, -2
HC-C3YK-1, -2
HC-C3YN-2, -4, -5
HC-C3YR-1, -2, -4; EHC-C3YR-1, -2; PHC-C3YR-1, -2
(
See NOTES 1 and
3)
Maximum Diameter Approx. Max.
Wt. Complete
Blades Continuous Takeoff Limits (For
reference only) Blade
(See NOTES
2 ) HP RPM HP RPM (See NOTE 2) (See NOTES
3 and
7)
Construction
Non-Counterweighted Propellers HC-C3YF-1, EHC-C3YF-1, PHC-C3YF-1, HC-C3YK-1,
HC-C3YR-1,
EHC-C3YR-1, and PHC-C3YR-1
6660-0 400 2700 400 2700 68" to 62" 79.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 6660-6 (-0 to -6)
6890-0 350 2850 350 2850 70" to 60" 75.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 6890-10 (-0 to -10)
7282-0 300 2700 300 2700 74" to 68" 68.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7282-6 (-0 to -6)
7382-0 350 2850 350 2850 75" to 65" 69.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7382-10 (-0 to -10)
7451-0 400 2700 400 2700 76" to 68" 80.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7451-8 (-0 to -8)
7453-0 310 2800 310 2800 76" to 68" 71.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7453-8 (-0 to -8)
7479-2 380 2900 380 2900 74" to 68" 75.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7479-8 (-2 to -8)
7590-0 350 2850 350 2850 77" to 67" 73.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
tto 7590-10 (-0 to -10)
-2- Rev. 11
7663-0 350 2800 350 2800 78" to 68" 69.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7663-10 (-0 to -10)
7666-0 310 2700 310 2700 78" to 68" 76.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7666-10 (-0 to -10)
7691-0 350 2850 350 2850 78" to 68" 67.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7691-10 (-0 to -10)
7854-0 400 2700 400 2700 80" to 72" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 7854-8 (-0 to -8)
8459-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 72.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8459-14 (-0 to -14)
Maximum Diameter Approx. Max.
Wt. Complete
Blades Continuous Takeoff Limits (For
reference only) Blade
(See NOTES HP RPM HP RPM (See NOTE 2) (See NOTES
3 and
7)
Construction
2 &
6
)
8465-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 74.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8465-14 (-0 to -14)
8467-0 400 2575 400 2575 86" to 72" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8467-14 (-0 to -14)
8468-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 75.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8468-14 (-0 to -14)
8468-6 310 2850 310 2850 80" to 72" 75.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8468-14 (-8 to -14)
8470-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 74.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8470-14 (-0 to -14)
8475-0 400 2650 400 2650 86" to 72" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8475-14 (-0 to -14)
8477-0 400 2575 400 2575 86" to 72" 81.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8477-14 (-0 to -14)
8483-0 400 2650 400 2650 86" to 72" 81.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 8483-14 (-0 to -14)
9587-0 398 1810 418 1810 97" to 75" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 9587-22 (-0 to -22)
9587-2 320 2200 320 2200 95" to 75" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 9587-22 (-2 to -22)
9587-15 285 2700 285 2700 82" to 72" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 9587-25 (-15 to -25)
9684-0 285 2000 285 2000 96" to 80" 85.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to 9684-16 (-0 to -16)
-3- Rev. 11
Non-Counterweighted Propellers HC-C3YR-1
7690 350 2850 350 2850 78" 60.0 lb.
Aramid composite
Non-Counterweighted Propellers HC-C3YF-1, HC-C3YK-1,
HC-C3YR-1
C7818-0 458 2133 458 2133 80" to 70" 91.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7818-10 (-0 to -10)
Counterweighted Propellers
HC-C3YF-2, EHC-C3YF-2, PHC-C3YF-2, HC-C3YF-4, HC-C3YF-5, HC-C3YN-2,
HC-C3YN-4, HC-C3YN-5,
HC-C3YK-2, HC-C3YR-2, EHC-C3YR-2, PHC-C3YR-2,
HC-C3YR-4
C6660-0 400 2700 400 2700 68" to 62" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C6660-6 (-0 to -6)
C6890-0 350 2850 350 2850 70" to 60" 83.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C6890-10 (-0 to -10)
C7282-0 300 2700 300 2700 74" to 68" 77.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7282-6 (-0 to -6)
C7382-0 350 2850 350 2850 75" to 65" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7382-10 (-0 to -10)
C7451-0 400 2700 400 2700 76" to 68" 89.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7451-8 (-0 to -8)
C7453-0 310 2800 310 2800 76" to 68" 80.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7453-8 (-0 to -8)
C7479-2 380 2900 380 2900 74" to 68" 84.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7479-8 (-2 to -8)
C7590-0 350 2850 350 2850 77" to 67" 82.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7590-10 (-0 to -10)
C7663-0 350 2800 350 2800 78" to 68" 78.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7663-10 (-0 to -10)
C7666-0 310 2700 310 2700 78" to 68" 85.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7666-10 (-0 to -10)
C7691-0 350 2850 350 2850 78" to 68" 76.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7691-10 (-0 to -10)
C7854-0 400 2650 400 2650 80" to 72" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C7854-8 (-0 to -8)
C8459-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 81.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8459-14 (-0 to -14)
C8465-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 83.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8465-14 (-0 to -14)
-4- Rev. 11
C8467-0 400 2575 400 2575 86" to 72" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8467-14 (-0 to -14)
C8468-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 84.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8468-14 (-0 to -14)
C8468-6 310 2850 310 2850 78" to 72" 84.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8468-14 (-6 to -14)
C8470-0 400 2700 400 2700 86" to 72" 83.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8470-14 (-0 to -14)
C8475-0 400 2650 400 2650 86" to 72" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8475-14 (-0 to -14)
C8475F-0 400 2650 400 2650 86" to 72" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8475F-14 (-0 to -14)
C8477-0 400 2575 400 2575 86" to 72" 90.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8477-14 (-0 to -14)
C8483-0 400 2650 400 2650 86" to 72" 90.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C8483-14 (-0 to -14)
C9587-0 398 1810 418 1810 97" to 75" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C9587-22 (-0 to -22)
C9587-2 320 2200 320 2200 95" to 75" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C9587-22 (-2 to -22)
C9587-15 285 2700 285 2700 82" to 72" 87.0 lb.
Aluminum alloy
to C9587-25 (-15 to -25)
C9684-0 285 2000 285 2000 96" to 80" 94.0
lb. Aluminum alloy
to C9684-16 (-0 to -16)
C9684-3 450 2133 450 2133 93" to 80" 94.0
lb. Aluminum alloy
to C9684-16 (-3 to -16)
Counterweighted Propellers
HC-C3YF-2, HC-C3YF-4, HC-C3YF-5, HC-C3YN-2, HC-C3YN-4, HC-C3YN-5, HC-C3YK-2,
HC-C3YR-2, HC-C3YR-4
C7818-0 458 2133 458 2133 80" to 70" 91.0
lb. Aluminum alloy
to C7818-10 (-0 to -10)
Certification basis
FAR Part 35 effective February 1, 1965.
Type Certificate No- P25EA issued April 1, 1966- Models added on
or subsequent to September 27, 1967 were approved under the
Delegation Option Authorization Provisions of FAR Part 21,
Subpart J.
Date of Application for Type Certificate November 22, 1965.
Production basis
Production Certificate No. 10.
-5- Rev. 11
Notes
NOTE
NOTE 1.Hub Model Designation
P HC - C 3 Y R - 1 R
L F| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |________F when used denotes modified pitch
| | | | | | | | | change system (integral on
HC-C3YN-5A)
| | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | |__________L when used, denotes left hand
rotation
| | | | | | | | U denotes added feather assist spring
| | | | | | | | (integral on HC-C3y()-5 model)
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |____________|R when used denotes larger piston
area
| | | | | | | | (See
NOTE 4)
| | | | | | | |Any other change denotes a minor
change
| | | | | | | | not affecting eligibility
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |_________________Denotes specific design features (See
| | | | | |
NOTE 4)
| | | | | |
| | | | | | |K or R denotes SAE #2 flange with six
| | | | | | | 1/2" bolts on a 4-3/4" bolt circle
| | | | | | | (B.C.),
| | | | | |____________________|K has four 3/4" drive bushings, R has
| | | | | | five bolts
| | | | | |F denotes special flange with six
1/2"
| | | | | | bolts and two dowels on a 4" B.C.
| | | | | |N denotes special flange with eight
| | | | | | 9/16" bolts and two dowels on a
4.25"
| | | | | | B.C.
| | | | |
| | | | |_______________________Hartzell blade shank size
| | | |
| | | |_________________________Number of blades
| | |
| | |___________________________Identifies basic design: C denotes no
| | integral shaft extension.
| |
| |__________________________________Hartzell controllable
|
| |When used indicates dowel position
| |with respect to centerline through
| |blade sockets when viewing hub
| |flange mounting face:
| | Dowel Pin T/C mark
|______________________________________|Blank 90 & 270 deg. 30 deg
Clockwise
| P 0 & 180 deg. 240 deg Clockwi
se
| E 0 & 180 deg. 120 deg
Clockwise
-6- Rev. 11
NOTE
NOTE 2.Blade Model Designation
FL C 76 63
D - 3R| | | | | |
| | | | | | |Number of inches cut off from basic
| | | | | | |diameter
| | | | | | |Q when used denotes special 1"-90 deg.
| | | | | |_____|factory-bent tip for cutoff diameter
| | | | | |Any other character in this location
| | | | | |denotes tip shape
| | | | |
| | | | | |D or F denotes dimensional modification
| | | | | |from original design
| | | | | |B or K denotes deicing boots
| | | | |_________|R when used denotes rounded tip for
| | | | |basic diameter
| | | | |S denotes square tip for basic diameter*
| | | | |Any other character denotes minor change
| | | | |not affecting eligibility
| | | |
| | | |_________________Basic blade model
| | |
| | |_____________________Basic diameter minus 2 inches (2 inch
| | correction does not apply to () 9684
| |
| | _________________________When used denotes counterweighted blades
|
| |Denotes blade configuration: right-hand
| |tractor unless otherwise noted
| |F denotes large pitch change knob
|_________________________________|H denotes right-hand pusher
|J denotes left-hand tractor
|L denotes left-hand pusher
|No prefix is used for 7690 composite
blade
* Blades may incorporate either round or square tips, yet may not be marked
with an "R" or "S" in the
blade model designation. This character is used to distinguish between two
or more tip shapes
available at the same diameter. Certain blades use "S" to denote shot
peening of the blade exterior
surface.
NOTE
NOTE 3.Pitch Control. ( See NOTE 10) Approved with Hartzell governors per
drawing list
C-4770 or C-4772. wt: 4.5 lb.
Governor Model Designation
D - 1 - 4| | |___________Minor adjustment not affecting eligibility
| |
| |______________Minor adjustment to obtain
| engine/propeller/governor compatibility.
|
|__________________Basic body and major parts modification
Woodward Model X210XXX or X210X-XXX wt. 3.5 lb.
McCauley Model C290-D3-X/TXX wt. 2.8 lb.
(not approved with counterweighted or feathering models)
NOTE
NOTE 4.
(a)Feathering. The -1 and -4 models do not feather. The -2 and -5 models
incorporate
feathering and unfeathering features. The -5 model is turbine oil
compatible.
(b)Reversing. Not applicable.
(c)Piston size. The -1R model has a piston area of 21.6 sq. in. The -1
model has 17.7 sq.
in.
NOTE
NOTE 5. Left-hand models. The left-hand version of an approved model
propeller is
approved at the same rating and diameter as listed for the right-hand model.
( See NOTES 1 and 2)
NOTE
NOTE 6. Interchangeability.
(a) Propellers
(1)"F" type propellers with large pitch change knobs are interchangeable
with corresponding propellers
with standard pitch change system ( See NOTES 1 and 2)
-7- Rev. 11
NOTE
NOTE 7.Accessories.
(a) Propeller anti-icing (weight of anti-icing equipment extra)
(1) Approved with fluid feed shoes or Icex boots installed in accordance
with
Hartzell Special Instruction no. 59A.
(2) Approved with Hartzell fluid feed equipment on propeller models for
which
equipment is available.
(b) Propeller deicing (weight of deicing equipment extra)
(1) Eligible with Goodyear ice guards (electrical propeller deicer) when
installed
in accordance with instructions outlined in Goodyear Report No. AP-147
dated October 23, 1961.
(2) Eligible with Goodrich deicing kit No. 77-XXX, 67-XXX, or 65-XXX when
installed in accordance with Goodrich Report No. 59-728().
(3) Approved with Safeway deicing boots 6848, 6870, or 6888 when installed
in
accordance with manufacturer's instructions.
(c) Propeller spinner (weight of spinner extra)
(1) Approved with Hartzell spinners.
NOTE
NOTE 8. Shank fairings. Not applicable.
NOTE
NOTE 9. Special limits.
Table of Propeller-Engine Combinations
Approved Vibrationwise for Use on Normal Category Single Engine Tractor
Aircraft
The maximum and minimum propeller diameters that can be used from a
vibration standpoint are
shown below. No reduction below the minimum diameter listed is permissible,
since this figure
includes the diameter reduction allowable for repair purposes.
Hub Blade Max. Dia.
Min. Dia.
Model Model Engine Model (inches)
(inches) Placards
HC-C3YR F7282 Lycoming O-360-F1A6 74
72 Avoid
continuous
operation
below
15 inches
manifold
pressure
between 1950
and
2350 RPM.
HC-C3YR F7282 Lycoming O-360-A1A, 74
73 Avoid
A1C, A1D, A1F, A1G,
continuous
A1H, C1A, C1C, C1E C1F,
operation
IO-360-A1A, A1B, A1C,
below 15"
A1D, C1A, C1B, C1C,
manifold
IO-360-B1A, B1B, B1D,
pressure
B1E, B1F, E1A
between 1950
IO-360-A1B6, A1B6D, A1D6,
and 2350
A1D6D, C1C6, C1D6, C1E6, C1E6D
RPM.
PHC-C3YF FC7453 TCM TSIO-360-KB, -EB, -E 76
74 none
FJC7453 LTSIO-360-KB, -EB, -E
HC-C3YR FC7663()-()R Lycoming LTO-360-E1A6D 74
72 Avoid
FJC7663()-()R LTO-360-E1A6D
continuous
operation
at manifold
pressures
below 15"
Hg above
12000 ft.
altitude
HC-C3YR FC7663-()R Lycoming O-360-E1A6D, 74
72 none
FJC7663-()R LO-360-E1A6D
-8- Rev. 11
PHC-C3YF F7663-()R TCM TSIO-360-E, EB, F, FB 76
72 none
PHC-C3YF FC7663()-()R TCM TSIO-360-E, EB, KB, 76
72 none
FJC7663()-()R LTSIO-360-E, EB, KB
PHC-C3YF FC7663()-4Q TCM TSIO-360-E, EB 74
74 none
FJC7663()-4Q LTSIO-360-E, EB
PHC-C3YF 7663 TCM IO-470-L 76
74 none
C7663
PHC-C3YF F7663 TCM O-470-U 78
76 none
FC7663
EHC-C3YF 7663 TCM IO-520-A, J 76
74 none
HC-C3YF C7663 TSIO-520-A, C, H
PHC-C3YF 7663 TCM IO-520-B, C 76
74 none
C7663 TSIO-520-B, D, E
PHC-C3YF FC7663-()R TCM IO-520-CB 76
74 none
PHC-C3YF FC7663D()-2Q TCM TSIO-520-N, NB 76
76 none
PHC-C3YF F7663D()-2Q TCM IO-520-B, B, BB 76
76 none
FC7663D()-2Q
HC-C3YR F7663R Lycoming IO-540-K1A5, K1B5, 78
76 none
K1H5
HC-C3YR FC7663DR Lycoming IO-540-K1B5 78
76 none
PHC-C3YR F7663 TCM IO-550-B 78
76 none
FC7663
PHC-C3YF F7691() TCM O-470-A, -J, -K, -L 78
77 none
-R, -S, -U
PHC-C3YF F7691 TCM IO-520-A, B, BA, BB 78
77 Do not
D, F, J, L
exceed 20"
manifold
pressure
below 2250
RPM.
PHC-C3YF F7691() TCM IO-520-AB, B D, F 78
77 Do not
exceed 20"
manifold
pressure
below 2250
RPM.
HC-C3YF 8468-()R TCM IO-520 series 78
77 none
C8468-()R with one 4th, one 5th and
two 6th order dampers,
8.5 to 1 compression ratio
or less, 300 hp at 2850 RPM
or less
HC-C3YF 8468 TCM IO-520-A, J 80
77 none
EHC-C3YF C8468 TSIO-520-A, C, H
HC-C3YF 8468 TCM IO-520-B, BA, BB, C, CB 80
77 none
PHC-C3YF C8468 TSIO-520-B, BB, D, DB, E, EB
-9- Rev. 8
PHC-C3YF F8468A() TCM O-470-K, -L 80
77 none
IO-470-F
PHC-C3YF F8468A() TCM IO-520-D 80
77 none
IO-520-D
PHC-C3YF F8468A() TCM TSIO-520-C, -G, -M 80
77 none
-H, -N, -R, -P, -T, -AF
PHC-C3YF F8468A-()R TCM O-520-U,UB 80
78 none
PHC-C3YF FC8468 Lycoming O-540-E4C5 78
76 none
HC-C3YR C8468-()R Lycoming IO-540 series 78
78 none
with P/N 75079 crankshaft
assembly, one 5th and one 6th
order dampers, 8.7 to 1 compression
ratio or less, 290 HP at 2575 RPM
or less
HC-C3YR F8468R Lycoming IO-540-K1J5D 84
76 none
FC8468R
HC-C3YR 8468 Lycoming IO-540-K1G5 80
76 none
HC-C3YR 8468 Lycoming IO-540-A1()5, 80
78 none
C8468 B1()5, E1()5,
G1()5, P1()5
HC-C3YR 8468-()R Lycoming IO-540-K1A5, 84
76 none
F8468-()R K1B5, K1C5,
C8468-()R K1D5, K1G5, L1A5,
FC8468-()R M1A5, M1A5D, M1B5D
HC-C3YR FC8468-10Q Lycoming TIO-540-J2BD(MA) 76
76 none
FJC8468-10Q LTIO-540-J2BD(MA)
HC-C3YR C8468 Lycoming IO-540-K1E5 78
76 none
HC-C3YR F8468-()R Lycoming IO-540-AA1A5 78
77 none
FC8468-()R
HC-C3YR C8468 Lycoming IO-540-S1A5 80
76 none
HC-C3YR F8475R Lycoming IO-720-D1B, D1BD 86
80 none
HC-C3YR 8475R Lycoming IO-720-A1A, 86
80 none
C8475R A1B, B1A, D1CD
HC-C3YR F8483 Lycoming IO-720-A1A 86
80 none
FC8483 A1B, D1C, D1CD
HC-C3YF 9587D TCM 6-320-B 95
95 Avoid
continuous
operation
on the
ground
between
1900 and
2300
engine
RPM
in winds
above
15 MPH.
-10- Rev. 11
HC-C3YF F9587C TCM IO-520-D 82
80 No
(NOTE: Installation must
continuous
be derated to 2700
operation
RPM max)
below
2300 RPM.
HC-C3YF F9684 TCM 6-285-B, C 95
93 none
HC-C3YN C9684 Lycoming TIGO-541-E1A 93
93 none
HC-C3YN FJC9684 Lycoming TIGO-541-D1B 93
92 none
NOTE
NOTE 10.Special notes. Propeller installation must be approved as part of
the aircraft Type
Certificate upon compliance with the applicable airworthiness requirements.
NOTE
NOTE 11.Life Limits Airworthiness Limitations, if any, are specified in
Hartzell Maintenance
Manual 113() or Hartzell Service Letter 61().
. . . END . . .
Bryan Files
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
-4 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:Hartzell propeller numbers
>
> Hello fellow RV 'ers, I am working on the fuselage of a RV-6A and I have
> not yet purchased a propeller for my 0-320 engine. I am leaning toward
> the fixed pitch metal Sensenich , but of course I would love to find a
> C/S for a good price. The problem that I could use some help with is the
> interpreting of Hartzells model numbers. For example, HC-C3YR-2UF with a
> serial number of CK3482 and Blades numbered FC7451. Any help in
> explaining Hartzells I.D. system would be appreicated. David Ahrens
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Propane Engine Preheater |
In a message dated 10/30/99 1:03:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
BFiles(at)corecom.net writes:
<< We have preheaters in stock here for about $375.00. They run off a MSR
stove and work quite well. >>
Bryan, what is a MSR stove?
Thanks
Dale Ensing
Chicago area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Larsen <larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net> |
| Subject: | Propane Engine Preheater |
Listed below is a link showing an inexpensive pre-heater used by F. E. Potts in
Alaska. I happened across Mr. Potts' web site and heater a couple of years ago
and still haven't bought a blow torch. I've seen them at flea markets for
less than $10. Inexpensive and portable.
http://www.fepco.com/BF.pic28.html
Jim
Wing delivered,
Painting shop floor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propane Engine Preheater |
Dale,
It is a camping stove. It runs on muli fuels. Works grreat
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Propane Engine Preheater
>
> In a message dated 10/30/99 1:03:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
> BFiles(at)corecom.net writes:
>
> << We have preheaters in stock here for about $375.00. They run off a MSR
> stove and work quite well. >>
> Bryan, what is a MSR stove?
> Thanks
> Dale Ensing
> Chicago area
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender/gauge |
Randall Henderson wrote:
> I have a Mitchell oil temp gauge and sender (sender made by VDO actually).
> Have been experiencing low oil temp readings and progressively blocking off
> more and more of the cooler. Finally before blocking more off I decided to
> check the sender/gauge. Heated up some water to boiling and stuck the sender
> in. 200' above sea level should be about 210 degrees, right? Only reads 175.
I would call Mitchell (847-615-2887) and get the ohm specs thru the
range of the meter. Install resisters in place of the sender to check
the gauge and an ohm meter to check the sender.
I just recieved a set of Mitchell fuel gauges this week. One had the
gauge face off center in the housing and both had the MITCHELL at the
bottom of the gauge severely off center. I called Mitchell and they did
not seem suprised. Was told to send them in and they would fix the
problems. I asked about a yellow range marking between empty and 1\4 and
was quoted $10.00 per gauge. This was to be done on the face of the
gauge with tape. Do the ones ordered from ACS with custom range markings
come with tape or is the gauge face silk screened?
I had planned on using Mitchell's oil temperature and pressure gauges,
but am now wondering about the the quality of the product. I like the
Rochester units, but they come at a much higher price.
What kind of luck have the rest of the list listeners had with
Mitchell?
George Meketa
Cessna 140\RV8-QB wings
________________________________________________________________________________
GET A GOOD HANGAR CAT (s). OURS WORK WONDERS. WE ALSO USE SOUND BOXES>
________________________________________________________________________________
THATS A SLOW KILL...DO YOU PULL LEGS OFF DADDY LONG LEGS TOO? WE ALSO USE
HAVE-A-HEART TRAPS AND RELOCATE TO AREA WOODS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
I will be in LVK Wednesday morning, departing Thursday morning. I know
there are a bunch of RV's thre. Any listers willing to show off thier
planes? I've got beer money if you have an 8 fuselage to look at, gas
money if you've got a flying RV.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
cockpit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com (Randy Howard) |
>
>
> THATS A SLOW KILL...DO YOU PULL LEGS OFF DADDY LONG LEGS TOO? WE ALSO USE
> HAVE-A-HEART TRAPS AND RELOCATE TO AREA WOODS.
>
Oh please. Spare us the misguided concern for poor, cute, harmless rats.
I suspect you save misguided rattlesnakes and let them recooperate in your
bedroom as well.
Relocate rats to area woods. Great plan. They will not find anything there
that they want, and they will come right back, or to someone else's
house/farm/whatever will they will be killed, shot, or eaten by the cat.
I don't think there is any danger of these disease bearing $#%@
&! being
placed on the endangered species list anytime soon. If they are, I will
throw a big party, and invite everyone I can find...
--
Randy Howard (jrh(at)mustang.us.dell.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Ed,
NAT. is just five minutes down the road from me. the address etc:
Northern Airborne Technology Ltd.
14-1925 Kirschner Rd.
Kelowna BC. Canada
V1Y 4N7
Phone-250-763-2232
Fax-250-762-3374
jim in kelowna, skinning top of fuse
>
>Listers,
>Does anyone have an address or phone number for NAT (Northern Airborne
>Tecnologies)?
>The are the manufactuers of Intercom systems.
>Yes, I've looked in the Yellar Pages and in the archives, and Alta
>Vista..............
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Cole
>RV6A Finishing Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Full-name: KBoatri144
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:24:34 EDT
Subject: Surface Finish
In my painting adventures, I'm seeing something unusual: The fiberglass
parts look great - no orange peel, slick finish, darned near perfect. On the
aluminum parts, I'm getting mild orange peel. I'm spraying plastic and
aluminum parts in the same session, in identical conditions, out of the same
pot of paint. The materials I'm using are Centari (with hardener) over
Velvaseal.
What gives?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Full-name: KBoatri144
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:19:04 EDT
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt
<< What is the best angle to settle on for the tilt of the brake pedal on the
rudder bar? The plans show them to go straight up. Is this position
comfortable during flight? Have some builders tilted them back a little?
Your decision... Sit in the airplane, decide what you like, and install 'em
that way. See next comment for more info...
<>
Dunno..
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender/gauge |
George,
I have a full set of Rochester gauges along with a Mitchell mechanical
tachometer. The Mitchell came with the face offset and crooked. The case
was warped plastic. I dis-assembled the unit, straightened the face, and
cursed myself that I had already drilled my panel to accept this unit. I am
not impressed with the quality of the Mitchell unit at all.
You get what you pay for. (Your mileage may vary, of course.) (Opinions
are worth what you pay for them.)
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting..........boy it takes a long time to paint"
>
>I had planned on using Mitchell's oil temperature and pressure gauges,
>but am now wondering about the the quality of the product. I like the
>Rochester units, but they come at a much higher price.
>
>What kind of luck have the rest of the list listeners had with
>Mitchell?
> George Meketa
> Cessna 140\RV8-QB wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | oil cooler hookup |
Sorry if this is a repeat, (not sure) but I got bounced from the list.
Hi,
RE: RV-6 O360-A1A, LEFT FIREWALL MOUNT, POSITECH
I am starting to figure out which oil line routing from the engine to
the oil cooler will work out best.
Questions....
1. Am I correct that the 45 degree bend type is the only AN fitting
that will work in the "Oil to Cooler" port on the engine? And that the
straight type AN fitting is the only one that will work in the "Oil from
Cooler"?
2. Am I better off with a short run and a long run to and from the
cooler, or am I better off with 2 medium length runs. Does it matter?
3. It seems that many different combos of hoses and fitting will work
in this situation. What have other builders using this configuration
used?
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
Well, may as well introduce the web page we put together this weekend.
Under 'fuselage' I have how we positioned our rudder pedals.
http://fp1.cyberhighway.net/~racker
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff...)
>
> << What is the best angle to settle on for the tilt of the brake
> pedal on the
> rudder bar? The plans show them to go straight up. Is this position
> comfortable during flight? Have some builders tilted them back a little?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Poisons are very dangerous for the secondary effect they have. Mice & other
rodents will pack away, hoard, & otherwise move the poison to other locations.
Dog, cats & other pets and kids will eventually find the stash and likewise be
effected.......This occurs more than you think........ I am very aware of this
when my dog spends the afternoon with me at the airport....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop on 160 HP RV6/6A |
>
>I've got 230 hrs on my 6A with the 160hp and Sensenich prop...
>I am very happy with this setup.. I get a good climb out rate as well as fast
>cruise speeds, (190mph TAS) Cruising up high at full throttle usually gets
>around 2500rpm,
>so you do not have to worry about the 2600 rpm limitation much until you
>start descending.
>
Walt,
I too am thinking of going to the metal prop. What does your airplane
weight? How about the climb at different density alitudes?
I have got a 69x69 wood now and can run 2700 at 8,000 ft but climb like
crazy. Your imfo would sure help. thanks.
Ed Hobenshield RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender/gauge |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I just recieved a set of Mitchell fuel gauges this week. One had the
> gauge face off center in the housing and both had the MITCHELL at
> the
> bottom of the gauge severely off center. I called Mitchell and they
> did
> not seem suprised. Was told to send them in and they would fix the
> problems. I asked about a yellow range marking between empty and 1\4
> and
> was quoted $10.00 per gauge. This was to be done on the face of the
> gauge with tape. Do the ones ordered from ACS with custom range
> markings
> come with tape or is the gauge face silk screened?
-
You may not be aware but the instruments that you have are no the same as
the ones Randal has.
His are compact sized instruments that are only about 1 1/4" square.
They are entirely different from the standard 2 1/4" instrument that you
have.
>
> I had planned on using Mitchell's oil temperature and pressure
> gauges,
> but am now wondering about the the quality of the product. I like
> the
> Rochester units, but they come at a much higher price.
>
> What kind of luck have the rest of the list listeners had with
> Mitchell?
Just an FYI in case you didn't know... The Mitchell instruments that you
have are actually VDO auto instruments that have a custom bezel put on
them so that they mount in a 2 1/4" instrument hole. The "crooked"
Mitchell sticker is the one that they put on to cover up the orig. VDO
label on the instrument face.
If you are interested in this type of instrument check out the new ones
available from Van's for about much less dollars than the Mitchell units.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
-Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 7:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt
>
>What is the best angle to settle on for the tilt of the brake pedal on the
>rudder bar? The plans show them to go straight up. Is this position
>comfortable during flight? Have some builders tilted them back a little?
This applies to overhead pedals. You need to first sit the plane and note
the angle of your foot when it is in a comfortable position. The toes will
be inclined forward at about a 25 degree angle. This is the minimum angle
you want the rudder pedals inclined so that a natural extension of the leg
causes a rotation of the torque tubes without engaging the brakes. The
Cleveland brakes are fully engaged with only a 3/4 inch or so displacement
at the top of the pedal, corresponding to only a few degrees of angular
displacement.
The forward-most position of the pedals is fixed by the firewall
"doghouse"/filter recess box. The rearmost position is fixed by the
supplied length of the rudder cables and the first bulkhead through which
they pass. I believe that with the existing geometry there is sufficient
room to fully deflect the rudder to the stops with the pedals as far forward
as the doghouse/recess box allows.
I used the Frank Justice tip of drilling 5 sets of holes to position the
three bearing blocks. I am 5'9" and I am probably going to use the
forward-most holes because that gives me the greatest pedal inclination and
most user-friendly geometry for rudder and brake usage.
I have flown in 6es and 6As with rubber hose on the lower horizontal tube to
help space the foot away from the brake pedal -- this arrangement doesn't
feel as comfortable to me as inclining the pedal to a greater degree.
Mind the first bulkhead grommet location -- I had to relocate mine from the
plan's location to avoid binding and potential snagging of the swaged end.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
Norman,
Don't finalize the rudder pedal position until you're almost finished with
the fuselage.
You need to actually sit in the seat before you'll know just where you want
them.
Yes, the length of the cables sets the position of the pedals and can only
be changed by
changing the length of the steel straps which connect them to the pedals.
The position
of the mounting blocks only sets the angle of the brake pedals.
You'll be pushing on the bottom of the rudder pedal not on the brake pedal.
In flight it won't
make too much difference, but during take off and landing you don't want to
inadvertently push on the brakes.
So, there isn't much more you should do until you have the tail on, and can
sit as close as
possible to your final seating position.
And, by the way, DON'T install the forward top skin until the you absolutely
have to! (just before paint!)
There is always one more thing to do under there and it's soooo much easier
without that skin on!
Dave Bristol, paint and upholstery-LA area
>What is the best angle to settle on for the tilt of the brake pedal on the
>rudder bar? The plans show them to go straight up. Is this position
>comfortable during flight? Have some builders tilted them back a little?
>
>When flying an RV6 with overhead rudder pedals do you push on the bar at
the
>bottom and not push on the brake pedals? Please excuse my ignorance but I
>have never flown in an RV so I don't know. I went to the archives and got
>over 500 hits. It made me feel like descriptive subject headers are very
>important to future builders researching.
>
>It looks like the final position of the pedal assembly is determined by the
>length of the rudder cables. Is this true? In other words, do I have to fit
>the tail before I go any further?
>
>When final assembly does take place, have builders been putting any
>lubricant in the white plastic blocks at the fuselage sides? I have painted
>mine but I had to sand the paint off the ends to fit them into the plastic
>blocks.
>
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>Delta, BC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface Finish |
The fiberglass is more porous than the metal, causing the paint to sit more
evenly. Slight orange peel is almost impossible to eliminate...if you can
paint on the metal a little heavier, right before it runs, then your orange
peel will be mostly eliminated...I have found that I almost always have to
take some 1200 grit to it and give it a slight buff to get the orange peel
out of it...I have planned for it in the future on the whole airplane, to
make it look right..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Surface Finish
>
>
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>Full-name: KBoatri144
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:24:34 EDT
>Subject: Surface Finish
>To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>In my painting adventures, I'm seeing something unusual: The fiberglass
>parts look great - no orange peel, slick finish, darned near perfect. On
the
>aluminum parts, I'm getting mild orange peel. I'm spraying plastic and
>aluminum parts in the same session, in identical conditions, out of the
same
>pot of paint. The materials I'm using are Centari (with hardener) over
>Velvaseal.
>
>What gives?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface Finish |
If you also use a hotter reducer and a cooler catylist it will allow the
paint to dry slower and it will have more time to flow out.
The more flowing time the less orange peal you will have. The only draw
back is that you need a clean place to spray. The longer the paint takes to
dry the opportunity for more dirt and dust to collect.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 1999 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Surface Finish
>
> The fiberglass is more porous than the metal, causing the paint to sit
more
> evenly. Slight orange peel is almost impossible to eliminate...if you can
> paint on the metal a little heavier, right before it runs, then your
orange
> peel will be mostly eliminated...I have found that I almost always have to
> take some 1200 grit to it and give it a slight buff to get the orange peel
> out of it...I have planned for it in the future on the whole airplane, to
> make it look right..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
> To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:16 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Surface Finish
>
>
> >
> >
> >From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> >Full-name: KBoatri144
> >Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:24:34 EDT
> >Subject: Surface Finish
> >To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> >In my painting adventures, I'm seeing something unusual: The fiberglass
> >parts look great - no orange peel, slick finish, darned near perfect. On
> the
> >aluminum parts, I'm getting mild orange peel. I'm spraying plastic and
> >aluminum parts in the same session, in identical conditions, out of the
> same
> >pot of paint. The materials I'm using are Centari (with hardener) over
> >Velvaseal.
> >
> >What gives?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Kyle Boatright
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | coro_01(at)weblabs.com |
bbusch(at)ameritech.net, polstery(at)webtv.net, catherine.labrie(at)hardigg.com,
dan.jester(at)snet.net, williad(at)hsd.utc.com, tlocke02(at)snet.net,
trx158(at)aol.com, cds(at)mail2.nai.net, dan.jester(at)snet.net,
williad(at)hsd.utc.com, debra.stobbe(at)cocc.com, dsi(at)execpc.com,
dstobbe(at)golfball.moneng.mei.com, ealmeida(at)mandic.com.br,
ghannoosh(at)next-step.com, hang-gliding(at)lists.utah.edu,
hartforddirect(at)worldnet.att.net, inductoav(at)snip.net,
klarsen(at)next-step.com, osaka-kasuga(at)pop17.odn.ne.jp,
kstobbe(at)netzero.com, lauralee.austin(at)lmco.com, mark_kroot(at)yahoo.com,
pperrone(at)oxhp.com, jay.j.sojka(at)rexam.com, rtakacs(at)wiggins-air.com,
support(at)vansaircraft.com, trx158(at)aol.com
| Subject: | Word Macro Virus |
Today I received an email from someone I knew with a file attachment - a
Word document named OPTical.doc or something close to that, if I remember
correctly.
This document contained a destructive macro virus and was automatically
sent to me from a business acquaintance's computer without his
knowledge. If the macro is allowed to run it will delete important system
files (io.sys, etc.).
If you receive such an email I would strongly advise you not to open the
document unless you know exactly what you are doing.
The document itself contains various optical illusions and promises to
provide one additional if you forward the message and attachment to (3) others.
This is the first I have seen of this virus - sorry for the alert if you
were already aware of its existence.
Regards,
Bruce Stobbe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | oil temp sender/gauge |
I think this got lost when the list was down. Here is again:
I must (somewhat sheepishly) report that my Mitchell oil sender/gauge seem
to be working correctly after all. Today I tried again and used a borrowed
sender. The friend who was keeping an eye on the gauge this time tapped on
the glass and the needle came right up to temp then. I then tried it again
with the old sender and same thing. Also it was a little warmer today so
perhaps the meter movement was sticker with the cold the other evening.
I flew this way and tapping on the glass had no effect, so I think it's
pretty certain that due to vibration it was reading right all along.
So now it looks like it's back to blocking off the oil cooler. I put a plate
on that covers about 90% of the cooler. Temp came up a little, around 175
now, at about 45 degrees OAT.
I checked the archives for "vernatherm" and came up with all sorts of good
posts, which helped me understand exactly why this might be happening. Based
on that I may look into moving an oil cooler line to another port that a
couple of posters pointed out comes from the bypass valve, if blocking off
the rest of the cooler doesn't do it.
Man what a screwy deal. You'd think Lyc. would have a better set-up than one
that has a thermostat but also a bypass that just goes around it. Evidently
they never counted on planes having very efficient cooling when they
designed these systems.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
Norm,
You received good advice from Dave and Dennis. I'll add a bit more comment.
>What is the best angle to settle on for the tilt of the brake pedal on the
>rudder bar? The plans show them to go straight up. Is this position
>comfortable during flight? Have some builders tilted them back a little?
You will want to custom fit your rudder pedals. You could do this
without fitting the vert. stab and rudder although it would be easier to do
with these installed and the rudder cables hooked up. You could thread the
rudder cables through the fuse. bulkheads, attach them directly to the
rudder pedals and find a way to clamp them solid at the aft fuselage. You
would get no movement of the rudder pedals with this method but might still
be able to get a good "feel" of the angle of the rudder pedal. It is my
belief that most builders would want to tilt the rudder pedals forward a
bit. Dennis mentioned 3/4" freeplay. I thought it was much less, more on
the order of 1/4" when the system is full of fluid. For builders used to
the brake setups on spam cans, I think they will be amazed at the almost
total lack of free play on RV brake pedals. This applies to both the
suspended and floor mounted rudder pedals. On the floor mounted pedals, it
was impossible to use much rudder without applying brakes and I redid my
installation to tilt the brake pedals forward. Landing a taildragger on a
narrow runway with a cross wind is even more exciting if you are applying
brakes when deflecting the rudder!
When we were building Charlie Tyrrel's 6A, he found that he had to tilt
the pedals ahead which called for more length on the plate that rivets to
the rudder pedal. For your initial fitting, you may want to make this
piece a little larger and cleco it on & test it before final riveting.
>When final assembly does take place, have builders been putting any
>lubricant in the white plastic blocks at the fuselage sides? I have painted
>mine but I had to sand the paint off the ends to fit them into the plastic
>blocks.
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>Delta, BC
I enlarged the holes using a new, 1" diameter Scotch Brite wheel on a die
grinder. A fine grit sanding drum on a Dremel tool works as well. Just
move the wheel around the inside until you get the fit you want. I also
drill the holes for AN3 bolts in the UHMW with a #10 drill so the bolt
slides in easliy. If you use a 3/16" or #12 bit, you'll have a tight fit
which makes the seemingly constant "fit and remove" even more tedious.
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface Finish |
Paul
For what it is worth, at the time of painting my aircraft, I was bullied by
a more experienced friend into thinning my paint way beyond that recommended
by the paint manufacturer. In fact it was so thin that the first glossy
layer did not cover the primer. Standing back a safe distance from the
fumes he then shouted at me to stop for ten minutes before starting another
coat. After the third coat the primer could still just be seen but the
surface was smooth and showed no inclination to run. After five coats the
job was done except for some overspray which was dulling parts of the gloss.
The last step was to thin the paint again 50/50 with extender and gloss the
whole surface while he shouted at me to get away and not apply too much.
It worked although I am sure no business could make a profit this way. No
orange peel and only two tiny runs.
The logic is in the drying time which stiffens the base of the drying paint
and allows more thinner on top.
Then came the suicide bugs who found the thinners irresistible.
Noel Drew
RV6 300hrs
Durban
South Africa
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: 01 November 1999 07:01
Subject: Re: RV-List: Surface Finish
>
>The fiberglass is more porous than the metal, causing the paint to sit more
>evenly. Slight orange peel is almost impossible to eliminate...if you can
>paint on the metal a little heavier, right before it runs, then your orange
>peel will be mostly eliminated...I have found that I almost always have to
>take some 1200 grit to it and give it a slight buff to get the orange peel
>out of it...I have planned for it in the future on the whole airplane, to
>make it look right..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
>To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:16 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Surface Finish
>
>
>>
>>
>>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>>Full-name: KBoatri144
>>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:24:34 EDT
>>Subject: Surface Finish
>>To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>>
>>In my painting adventures, I'm seeing something unusual: The fiberglass
>>parts look great - no orange peel, slick finish, darned near perfect. On
>the
>>aluminum parts, I'm getting mild orange peel. I'm spraying plastic and
>>aluminum parts in the same session, in identical conditions, out of the
>same
>>pot of paint. The materials I'm using are Centari (with hardener) over
>>Velvaseal.
>>
>>What gives?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Kyle Boatright
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | skin preservative question |
i have just finished tail and it will be stored for a couple of years
minimum. i have seen on the web pix of several wing/tail sections hanging up
with a yellow/green color coating. is this necessary, and if so what kind of
material is recommended? i have heard of some guys using a primer of some
type but said they had big problems later on when preping for paint. thanx,
bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> Aeroshell makes a preservitive oil that works well....
> 1) Drain out engine oil.
> 2) Put in 7-8 qts of Aeroshell preserve oil.
> 3) Run engine for about 5-7 min on ground.
> 4) Drain preserve oil out.
> 5) DO NOT MOVE PROPELLER OR TURN OVER ENGINE UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO GO!
This is what I've been told also... But, it is necessary to move the
crank some to fit the cowl, unless you are lucky enough to have the crank
in the right spot. So, what should be done when one must move the crank a
little? I can see fogging the tops of the cylinders, but what about under
the pistons?
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Locking Fuel Caps? |
Can anyone provide an opinion on the locking fuel caps in Van's accessory
catalog? Are they worth the price? Any reason not to get them? Does it
make refueling unnecessarily complicated? There isn't much in the archives.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings; I debur, therefore I am.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: skin preservative question |
If you have primed your non alclad parts on the inside, the tail section
will be fine for storage. The alclad on the skins will be sufficient for
Arkansas weather..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 9:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: skin preservative question
>
>i have just finished tail and it will be stored for a couple of years
>minimum. i have seen on the web pix of several wing/tail sections hanging
up
>with a yellow/green color coating. is this necessary, and if so what kind
of
>material is recommended? i have heard of some guys using a primer of some
>type but said they had big problems later on when preping for paint.
thanx,
>bob in arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Rudder Pedal Position and Tilt |
<< Mind the first bulkhead grommet location -- I had to relocate mine from the
plan's location to avoid binding and potential snagging of the swaged end. >>
I think this is a common problem. I had to install a fairlead (sp?) on the
forward foot or so of the cables to prevent the snagging/binding problem.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Listers,
Rodent poisons like Decon work by expanding in the victims stomach when they mix
with water. Since rodents lack the ability to vomit, they basically explode. A
child
or pet will merely be violently ill. Not that this is a small issue when it happens
in your car/plane/house.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> Poisons are very dangerous for the secondary effect they have. Mice & other
> rodents will pack away, hoard, & otherwise move the poison to other locations.
> Dog, cats & other pets and kids will eventually find the stash and likewise
be
> effected.......This occurs more than you think........ I am very aware of this
> when my dog spends the afternoon with me at the airport....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Locking Fuel Caps? |
The advantage of the locking caps is if your plane is stolen, you know just
about how far they can fly it as they won't get any more gas in it. At least
that is the reasoning of the bonanza list.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 5:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Locking Fuel Caps?
>
>Can anyone provide an opinion on the locking fuel caps in Van's accessory
>catalog? Are they worth the price? Any reason not to get them? Does it
>make refueling unnecessarily complicated? There isn't much in the
archives.
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 wings; I debur, therefore I am.
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Diane and Dave Irwin <dirwin(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | C-GCRV first flight |
RV-6A serial # 22607 made it first flight on Oct. 31 at 17:00. All went
well with a heavy right wing being the only snag (corrected by squeezing
the left aileron for the second flight today). C-GCRV has taken 6 and a
half years and over 3,000 to build to date. Empty weight is 995 pounds
(no paint, wheel pants, fairings or interior). Initial performance is
160 mph IAS at 2375 RPM. Engine is an O-320E (150hp) running a 76 inch
pitch Sensenich prop.
I flew a 2-seat Grumman for 10 years and the RV-6A is the plane that the
Grumman should have been!
Dave Irwin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 dual received |
Listers,
I just returned from a wonderful weekend of dual transition training with
Jeff Ludwig in his absolutely awesome -8. The pics of it on my webpage
simply do not do it justice...that basecoat/clearcoat paintjob is a work of
art.
After six hours of dual with Jeff, I feel competent to fly my -8, which I
hope will happen before the end of the year. Hmm, it would be most cool to
have the first, last RV flight of the millenium! Uh..yeah..or sumthin like
that. I believe that a low time private pilot like myself, with some
previous tailwheel time in something like a Citabria, can quickly get
comfortable with the -8. I found the greatest challenge to be getting my
head...uh...ahead of the airplane, especially when transitioning from cruise
into the pattern. These things don't want to slow down! As Jeff called it,
"We got a WHOAAAA problem here". Jeff's -8 has a C/S prop, and mine does
not, so I won't have the benefit of a prop set to high rpm to provide some
airbraking. We also simulated the diminished horsepower issue that I have
here in Albuquerque. By limiting the power setting on takeoff to no more
than 23", it was VERY evident how much high altitude takes away from the
takeoff and climb performance. Still, we showed 1,000+ fpm with two beefy
dudes and full fuel aboard.
After a full stall series, it was very evident how well behaved and
responsive this airplane is. It simply shudders in protest to the critical
angle of attack, and keeps flying once back stick pressure is relieved a wee
bit. It doesn't get any simpler!
OK, now that my RV grin has subsided, I'll offer this: For those NOT
planning to get some dual in the same model RV you are building, PLEASE
reconsider. For those with bazillions of hours in everything with wings,
well, I guess you could just go for it. But, for the rest of us mere mortals
who are accustomed to the garden variety torn-seated, smelly, oily, noisy,
flea-bitten rental spam can, there is simply no substitute for training in
the real thing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Locking Fuel Caps? |
Can anyone provide an opinion on the locking fuel caps in Van's accessory
catalog? Are they worth the price? Any reason not to get them? Does it
make refueling unnecessarily complicated? There isn't much in the archives.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings; I debur, therefore I am.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com<
There is a very good reason not to get the locking gas caps from Van's. They
don't have them, can't get them, and the guy that convinced them to put them
in the catalog is not making them! As far as I know, there are no other
sources, if anyone knows of one, I'd sure like to have their name. I had
ordered the locking caps not long after I got the wing kit, and when they
didn't arrive with the rest of my order (they were noted as "backordered" on
the invioce) I called Van's to find out how long it would be before they got
them. That's when I got the whole sad tale from Bill Benedict, if I recall
correctly. Andy Johnson, left wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | RV Upholstery Products |
RV Builders:
I recently moved to Las Vegas and am now back on line. Please note my new
telephone number and e-mail address. Thank you for your patience!
I have been in the upholstery business for 27 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 15 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. Photos available upon
request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | R.A.C.E. results |
R.A.C.E. (Rutan And Composite Enthusiasts) had their
Mesquite, NV event on Sunday 31 October. Metal
airplanes are welcome and there is even a RV class.
People flying metal airplanes were treated just like
everyone else. They all had one common denominator,
we all LOVE to fly.
The first heat had the faster 9 airplanes. The course
was two laps from Mesquite (67L) to Mormon Mesa VOR
(MMM) to Perkins (U08) back to 67L. The start is a
flying start with all the airplanes coming down the
chute side by side doing 120 mph. The "PACE" EZ does
a pull-up (Chandelle) and the race is on. I did not
get all the speeds written down but a TSIO powered
Lancair IV set the fastest speed ever recorded at any
of the R.A.C.E. events at just under 300 MPH. The
second heat of 11 airplanes had the RV class in it.
Since I knew (and have flown with) all the RVs that
were there, I expected that I would take 4th place. I
had the biggest RV airplane with the smallest engine.
This would still allow me to gather information and
improve my score next time.
The results of the first 4 finishers in the RV class
were as follows.
1. 231.55 N78TM 160 hp RV-3 Tom McIntyre
2. 212.54 N67WL 180 hp RV-6A Werner Berry
3. 207.57 N240LT 180 hp RV-6 Joe Mayer
4. 195.79 N157GS 160 hp RV-6 Gary A. Sobek
The next R.A.C.E. event is the weekend following
Thanksgiving at Jean, NV. (0L7) There is some kind of
event on Saturday but I did not know what it was.
Another race would be on Sunday. Sure would be nice
if more RV's showed up.
After having now been to two different events (races)
as a participant, I can only say that this is a lot of
FUN and worth doing. There are a lot of GREAT
aviation people to meet and have fun with. I may
never win an event, but I am having enough FUN to keep
doing it. Everyone participation in these events is
professional and does not do anything that is unsafe.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | JC Whitney Mini Xenon Strobe Search |
> >Heads-up, J C Whitney has a mini xenon strobe rated at 1,000,000 cp,12V,
> >1/2 amp. 60 fpm, lexan lens, weatherproof housing, 1000 hr. life.
> >I think this would qualify for aircraft use if above is true.
> >$64.95. interesting
Follow this link to visit their homepage. Cruise into "shop online" to view
products or get your free catalog in the mail. Lots of goodies!
http://www.jcwhitney.com/
I was not able to find the page with the Mini Xenon Strobe. If some one else
finds it would they please post it here for discussion?
Tailwinds,
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc O360 A1A |
<< Subj: Lyc O360 A1A
Date: 99-10-27 10:32:32 EDT
From: Harrellace
To: rv-list(at)Matronics.com
Does anyone know of a Lyc. 0360 A1A run out for sale ?
Please replay
RV-6 N7470U Flying (BWG) KY. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R.A.C.E. results |
Gary, what kind of power settings and what altitudes did you use? What is
the total distance flown?
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: R.A.C.E. results
>
>R.A.C.E. (Rutan And Composite Enthusiasts) had their
>Mesquite, NV event on Sunday 31 October. Metal
>airplanes are welcome and there is even a RV class.
>People flying metal airplanes were treated just like
>everyone else. They all had one common denominator,
>we all LOVE to fly.
>
>The first heat had the faster 9 airplanes. The course
>was two laps from Mesquite (67L) to Mormon Mesa VOR
>(MMM) to Perkins (U08) back to 67L. The start is a
>flying start with all the airplanes coming down the
>chute side by side doing 120 mph. The "PACE" EZ does
>a pull-up (Chandelle) and the race is on. I did not
>get all the speeds written down but a TSIO powered
>Lancair IV set the fastest speed ever recorded at any
>of the R.A.C.E. events at just under 300 MPH. The
>second heat of 11 airplanes had the RV class in it.
>Since I knew (and have flown with) all the RVs that
>were there, I expected that I would take 4th place. I
>had the biggest RV airplane with the smallest engine.
>This would still allow me to gather information and
>improve my score next time.
>
>The results of the first 4 finishers in the RV class
>were as follows.
>1. 231.55 N78TM 160 hp RV-3 Tom McIntyre
>2. 212.54 N67WL 180 hp RV-6A Werner Berry
>3. 207.57 N240LT 180 hp RV-6 Joe Mayer
>4. 195.79 N157GS 160 hp RV-6 Gary A. Sobek
>
>The next R.A.C.E. event is the weekend following
>Thanksgiving at Jean, NV. (0L7) There is some kind of
>event on Saturday but I did not know what it was.
>Another race would be on Sunday. Sure would be nice
>if more RV's showed up.
>
>After having now been to two different events (races)
>as a participant, I can only say that this is a lot of
>FUN and worth doing. There are a lot of GREAT
>aviation people to meet and have fun with. I may
>never win an event, but I am having enough FUN to keep
>doing it. Everyone participation in these events is
>professional and does not do anything that is unsafe.
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>So. CA, USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine storage |
The only other method to keep that lubed is to fill up the case with oil.
This will prevent that.
-----**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 1:30 PM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Engine storage
>
>
> > Aeroshell makes a preservitive oil that works well....
> > 1) Drain out engine oil.
> > 2) Put in 7-8 qts of Aeroshell preserve oil.
> > 3) Run engine for about 5-7 min on ground.
> > 4) Drain preserve oil out.
> > 5) DO NOT MOVE PROPELLER OR TURN OVER ENGINE UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO GO!
>
>
> This is what I've been told also... But, it is necessary to move the
> crank some to fit the cowl, unless you are lucky enough to have the crank
> in the right spot. So, what should be done when one must move the crank a
> little? I can see fogging the tops of the cylinders, but what about under
> the pistons?
>
> Alex Peterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: JC Whitney Mini Xenon Strobe Search |
> > >Heads-up, J C Whitney has a mini xenon strobe rated at 1,000,000 cp,12V,
> > >1/2 amp. 60 fpm, lexan lens, weatherproof housing, 1000 hr. life.
> > >I think this would qualify for aircraft use if above is true.
> > >$64.95. interesting
So, how many Joules is 0.5A * 12V ???
What's it weigh?
And what's 60 fpm? (I don't want it if it'll only do 60 feet per minute
:-)
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Camlocs in oil door |
Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener attached
to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
hands..this can't be right..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R.A.C.E. results |
--- Ken Hoshowski wrote:
>
>
> Gary, what kind of power settings and what altitudes
> did you use? What is
> the total distance flown?
>
> Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
> Salmon Arm B.C.
Flying start from 120 MPH IAS at 4,000 feet. Field
elevation is 1,975 feet at 67L and 1,358 at U08.
Power = everything forward for me. Altitude for me
and most racers was 3,500 to 2,500.
I was told that total distance was 102 miles.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Paul,
In the bag with the camlocks there should also be two washers. These look like
inside star washers. These washers get push over the barrel of the camlocks to
hold them into the oil door.
Gary Zilik
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener attached
> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
> hands..this can't be right..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
--
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>
>Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
>plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
>the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
attached
>to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
>unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
>hands..this can't be right..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
Paul - Actualy you will mount the camloc seat on a doubler. You will see
the details of this in the plans. The camloc that you twist out of the
recever is held in with a spring washer that looks similar to an internal
tooth lock washer. You should find these two washers in the bag where you
found the camlocs. BTW don't install the lock washers yet. It will be much
easier to paint with the camlocs out. For now just be happy with taking the
camlocs right out when you open the access door.
Doug Murray RV-6 Under the cowl
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
The missing third part is called the retaining ring. It goes on the inside
surface of the door holding the Camlock fastener firmly against the door
surface. It is a must have item.
An interesting note about this style of quick release fasteners is that
there are two main brands listed in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. Camlock is
a brand name that makes the beefiest ones (P110). Southco is the other
(P112) and they are less than half the price. The ACS catalog says that they
are used to secure Cessna cowls models 150,172, and 177.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
attached
> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
> hands..this can't be right..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C-GCRV first flight |
mr & mrs irven
congradulations on your first flight. born on holloween? paint it bright
orange with a mad jacklo lantern face, just kidding, keep us posted on the
upcoming flight test.
good luck
scott
tampa
fuse steps done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | LRI Group Buy and Donation to Matt |
Listers,
Jim Huntington has contacted me and expressed his desire to make a donation
to Matt for the RV-List and has asked me if I would run another group buy
on the list and make the following offer:
The usual group buy offer is $670 for the analog LRI unit and $72 for
heater and $20 for shipping which reflects a savings of $123 or 14% over
the usual prices and shipping. Of course as usual the heater would be
optional. If you want the new gauge that was posted on Paul Besing's
webpage at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
The cost would be $750 plus the optional heater and shipping described
above. Again this reflects a $123 dollar savings for the whole package.
Now the part about the list contribution Jim would like to make. He will
give 5% of total LRI sales to Matt during this group buy. If we buy 5 or 10
LRI's during this month it can add up to a nice donation. The RV-List is
the only place you can get a discount on the LRI!
Now I know that there has been some controversy about this instrument on
the list but this is not the time to rekindle that thread. Suffice it to
say that Jim is puting together some information and data that was
requested and also has some other testing in the works that he will
announce soon. So let's not look a gift horse in the mouth or bite the hand
that feeds us. You should know if you want an LRI or any other AOA device
and this would be a great time to buy one. I am just thrilled that Jim is
willing to donate to the list in the spirit of "The Builders Bookstore" and
"AAMR/AirCore".
You can contact me at: prober(at)iwaynet.net or (614) 890-6301 if you
have any questions or want to get in on this group buy. Sorry this is so
long.........AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: C-GCRV first flight |
Dave & Diane,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (starting canopy)
Niantic, CT
USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jose del Peso <JDELPESO(at)teleline.es> |
| Subject: | Sherwin Williams primer in Europe |
for my QB RV-8.
I havent found these products in Spain, so Does any european RV builder
know where can I buy it?
I apreciate also any information about where to buy the following
products:
-S.W. 988 can
-PPG DX1791/DX 1792 primer/catalyst
-Strotium or zinc cromate can.
Thanks
Jose del Peso
QB RV-8 #80981 empennage
JDELPESO(at)teleline.es
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Locking Fuel Caps? |
The Mooney Miser ( Dr. Norm Smith) (loosely affiliated with MAPA ((mooney
pilots association))) who makes a STC'ed trim system for just about every
airplane in existance also markets a small circular tumbler lock insert that I
installed on my RV-4 tank caps. Looks sharp & very stelthy. BTW the trim
systems from the mooney miser are on everything from aerostars to cessna 150's.
He has thousands in service & offered me a price (experimental) that was the
same as the ones Vans sells.........Nothing negative on any product but I
figured if I choose the one that is on thousands of aircraft I can't be to far
off mark. Besides If I never finished my project I could use the trim tab on my
certicied aircraft.......
Larry(at)bowenaero.com on 11/01/99 06:24:05 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Locking Fuel Caps?
Can anyone provide an opinion on the locking fuel caps in Van's accessory
catalog? Are they worth the price? Any reason not to get them? Does it
make refueling unnecessarily complicated? There isn't much in the archives.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings; I debur, therefore I am.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JC Whitney Mini Xenon Strobe Search |
fpm is Flashes Per Minute. 60 is the FAA requirement.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: JC Whitney Mini Xenon Strobe Search
>
>> > >Heads-up, J C Whitney has a mini xenon strobe rated at 1,000,000
cp,12V,
>> > >1/2 amp. 60 fpm, lexan lens, weatherproof housing, 1000 hr. life.
>> > >I think this would qualify for aircraft use if above is true.
>> > >$64.95. interesting
>
>So, how many Joules is 0.5A * 12V ???
>
>What's it weigh?
>
>And what's 60 fpm? (I don't want it if it'll only do 60 feet per minute
>:-)
>
>Frank.
>
>--
>frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
>My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
With a CamLoc, you have to compress a spring loaded sleeve to have room to
tip them into the hole. Unless you compress this sleeve and sort of rotate
it back out it will stay for decades. At least all mine on my 1948 Bellanca
cowl doors are still there. There is even a special set of pliers to insert
or remove. It would be extremely difficult without this tool.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 11:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
>plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
>the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
attached
>to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
>unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
>hands..this can't be right..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Paul,
In the bag with the camlocks there should also be two washers. These look like
inside star washers. These washers get push over the barrel of the camlocks to
hold them into the oil door..........................
..........Try to use a small 1/4 inch socket that will just swallow the
receptical body ( a 12 point socket works best) as a pusher tool to push the
washer up the barrell.....I used a plier and light pressure to work the starred
washer down the barrell with my socket ..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Southcos are an entirely different fastener than camlocs
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>The missing third part is called the retaining ring. It goes on the inside
>surface of the door holding the Camlock fastener firmly against the door
>surface. It is a must have item.
>
>An interesting note about this style of quick release fasteners is that
>there are two main brands listed in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. Camlock is
>a brand name that makes the beefiest ones (P110). Southco is the other
>(P112) and they are less than half the price. The ACS catalog says that
they
>are used to secure Cessna cowls models 150,172, and 177.
>
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>
>> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
>> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured
to
>> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
>attached
>> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
>> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
>> hands..this can't be right..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Chalker <john.chalker(at)infoseek.com> |
humm, is this an rv list or how rat poison works?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charlie Kuss [SMTP:chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mice
>
>
> Listers,
> Rodent poisons like Decon work by expanding in the victims stomach when
> they mix
> with water. Since rodents lack the ability to vomit, they basically
> explode. A child
> or pet will merely be violently ill. Not that this is a small issue when
> it happens
> in your car/plane/house.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 wings
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >
> > Poisons are very dangerous for the secondary effect they have. Mice &
> other
> > rodents will pack away, hoard, & otherwise move the poison to other
> locations.
> > Dog, cats & other pets and kids will eventually find the stash and
> likewise be
> > effected.......This occurs more than you think........ I am very aware
> of this
> > when my dog spends the afternoon with me at the airport....
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Hi Gary,
Is it OK to put this piece in the Chapter 723 newsletter?
Maybe generate some interest here.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>R.A.C.E. (Rutan And Composite Enthusiasts) had their
>Mesquite, NV event on Sunday 31 October. Metal
>airplanes are welcome and there is even a RV class.
>People flying metal airplanes were treated just like
>everyone else. They all had one common denominator,
>we all LOVE to fly.
>
>The first heat had the faster 9 airplanes. The course
>was two laps from Mesquite (67L) to Mormon Mesa VOR
>(MMM) to Perkins (U08) back to 67L. The start is a
>flying start with all the airplanes coming down the
>chute side by side doing 120 mph. The "PACE" EZ does
>a pull-up (Chandelle) and the race is on. I did not
>get all the speeds written down but a TSIO powered
>Lancair IV set the fastest speed ever recorded at any
>of the R.A.C.E. events at just under 300 MPH. The
>second heat of 11 airplanes had the RV class in it.
>Since I knew (and have flown with) all the RVs that
>were there, I expected that I would take 4th place. I
>had the biggest RV airplane with the smallest engine.
>This would still allow me to gather information and
>improve my score next time.
>
>The results of the first 4 finishers in the RV class
>were as follows.
>1. 231.55 N78TM 160 hp RV-3 Tom McIntyre
>
>2. 212.54 N67WL 180 hp RV-6A Werner Berry
>
>3. 207.57 N240LT 180 hp RV-6 Joe Mayer
>
>4. 195.79 N157GS 160 hp RV-6 Gary A. Sobek
>
>
>The next R.A.C.E. event is the weekend following
>Thanksgiving at Jean, NV. (0L7) There is some kind of
>event on Saturday but I did not know what it was.
>Another race would be on Sunday. Sure would be nice
>if more RV's showed up.
>
>After having now been to two different events (races)
>as a participant, I can only say that this is a lot of
>FUN and worth doing. There are a lot of GREAT
>aviation people to meet and have fun with. I may
>never win an event, but I am having enough FUN to keep
>doing it. Everyone participation in these events is
>professional and does not do anything that is unsafe.
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>So. CA, USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
You obviously have not seen the damage a mouse and mouse urine can make to
an airplane. They can ruin upholstery, chew the insulation off wires, make
nests from your maps. Their urine will quickly corrode an aluminum spar to
make it un-airworthy. Their nests can plug cooling and heat muffs. Every
fall mice come in out of the fields to nest in hangars and the plane
contents for the winter. It is a constant battle which if you aren't
careful, the mice will win. And yet one doesn't want to put their pets and
children in harms way. Now do you understand the concern?
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Chalker <john.chalker(at)infoseek.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mice
>
>humm, is this an rv list or how rat poison works?
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Charlie Kuss [SMTP:chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net]
>> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:56 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mice
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>> Rodent poisons like Decon work by expanding in the victims stomach when
>> they mix
>> with water. Since rodents lack the ability to vomit, they basically
>> explode. A child
>> or pet will merely be violently ill. Not that this is a small issue when
>> it happens
>> in your car/plane/house.
>> Charlie Kuss
>> RV-8 wings
>> Boca Raton, Fl.
>>
>> >
>> > Poisons are very dangerous for the secondary effect they have. Mice &
>> other
>> > rodents will pack away, hoard, & otherwise move the poison to other
>> locations.
>> > Dog, cats & other pets and kids will eventually find the stash and
>> likewise be
>> > effected.......This occurs more than you think........ I am very aware
>> of this
>> > when my dog spends the afternoon with me at the airport....
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>>
>> -
>>
>> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
There is a circlip that you install on the back side of the camlock that
holds it from falling out.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
attached
> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
> hands..this can't be right..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...I did find
the washers, I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
I might have found what I needed! Heck, after all this, I might even put in
a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
up out of the door!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Would C. Mills please mail me his E-mail address.
Don not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
AAAhhh, Hartwells...funny you should ask. I used the Hartwell as did the 5
other RV builders on my field. Keep in mind each Hartwell has a different
lip-grip (for lack of any other name to call it) distance...no special problem
you simply shim the difference out. Once you eyeball one you can tell the grip
distances.....cheers (look at the joggle on the grip-lip...the joggle offset is
what I am refering to)........
rv8er(at)home.com on 11/02/99 05:18:56 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...I did find
the washers, I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
I might have found what I needed! Heck, after all this, I might even put in
a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
up out of the door!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
I just shot my first coat of S.W. P60-G2 last night and I have a quick question
for anyone who has used this stuff before....
How do you know when you have coated your work enough??? How green do you want
your finished product to be? This stuff sprays on with the consistency of
water. I made about two dozen hooks to hang my stuff to be primed up from the
top of my paint booth and I can now see that this was wasted effort. Just as
soon as I shoot primer on the hanging stuff, it all promptly runs right off.
How does anyone ever prime a vertical surface with this stuff.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I like it fairly light, transluscent like. When it dries it looks almost
like a light green anodize.
When I was out at Van's, Art Chard showed me a rear spar he was basically
finished with and I asked "When do you prime it?" He said it already is.
This may give you an idea of how lightly they/he covered his pieces. I go a
little thicker. They also mixed 2 to 1 as opposed to the I think 1.5 to 1.
Hope this helps, I found it to be very hard.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: P60-G2
>Date: Tue, Nov 2, 1999, 1:30 PM
>
> I just shot my first coat of S.W. P60-G2 last night and I have a quick
question
> for anyone who has used this stuff before....
>
> How do you know when you have coated your work enough??? How green do you
want
> your finished product to be? This stuff sprays on with the consistency of
> water. I made about two dozen hooks to hang my stuff to be primed up from the
> top of my paint booth and I can now see that this was wasted effort. Just as
> soon as I shoot primer on the hanging stuff, it all promptly runs right off.
> How does anyone ever prime a vertical surface with this stuff.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
if this is the wash primer I used by SW it goes on in a greenish haze. Very
thin & you cannot build up i.e. it is a low solids paint..Good stuff & it
protects & its LIGHT...but it is very thin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hello all,
Just seen article in AvWeb that Embry Riddle are to convert all their 172s
to 180 HP. Should leave a few o320s on the market over there. Maybe first
in first served.
Regards Les Rowles.
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mikes Body Shop" <mbsi(at)jhinet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Upholstery Products |
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 7:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV Upholstery Products
>
>RV Builders:
>
>I recently moved to Las Vegas and am now back on line. Please note my new
>telephone number and e-mail address. Thank you for your patience!
>
>I have been in the upholstery business for 27 years and have been making
>upholstery products for kitplanes for 15 years. I have interior kits
>available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
>other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
>manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
>request.
>
>For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
>207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. Photos available upon
>request.
>
>Sincerely,
>KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
>"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>
>Sam Knight
>
>
>I AM LOOKING TO HAVE AN INTERIOR MADE FOR MY RV-6. I WOULD LIKE MORE INFO
ON YOUR KITS THANKS
MIKE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
>Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
No problem.
>I did find the washers
Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
>I might have found what I needed!
Ya, blame it on the manual.
>Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
>up out of the door!
>
Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
My sincerest apology to the list.
My last post was supposed to go directly to the originator of
this question. (a friend of mine) I hit send before I changed the
address.
Again, I apologize.
Larry Olson
>Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
No problem.
>I did find the washers
Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
>I might have found what I needed!
Ya, blame it on the manual.
>Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
>up out of the door!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Larry Olson wrote:
>
>
> >Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
>
> No problem.
>
> >I did find the washers
>
> Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>
> >I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
> >I might have found what I needed!
>
> Ya, blame it on the manual.
>
> >Heck, after all this, I might even put in
> >a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
> >up out of the door!
> >
>
> Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
>
Has anyone ever sent a message to the whole list by mistake????
Obviously, Larry and Paul must be close friends!!
Jerry(blushing)Calvert
Wings & Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
I notice these people have angle C.P. die grinders for a special price of
$50. A good deal if you're in the market for one.
Marty in Brentwood, RV6 wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Vs ??
>
> Here's a couple,
>
> http://www.autobodystore.com
>
> http://www.sharpe1.com
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III builder
>
> Rohan Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> > Lister's, with all this talk of HVLP, could some one give me a site or
quick
> > explanation as too what are the mechanical differences between the 2
sorts
> > of guns??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
No, the "new" 172 already have O-360 engines that are derated to 160 HP.
They are just going to change the prop so that they will run fast enough to
put out 180 HP.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 3:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engines
>
>Hello all,
>
>Just seen article in AvWeb that Embry Riddle are to convert all their 172s
>to 180 HP. Should leave a few o320s on the market over there. Maybe first
>in first served.
>Regards Les Rowles.
>Les Rowles.
>Traralgon Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fredkunkel <onecal1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Better than any mice post!
RV6BLDR wrote:
>
> Larry Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> > >Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
> >
> > No problem.
> >
> > >I did find the washers
> >
> > Should have looked before you waisted our time.
> >
> > >I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
> > >I might have found what I needed!
> >
> > Ya, blame it on the manual.
> >
> > >Heck, after all this, I might even put in
> > >a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
> > >up out of the door!
> > >
> >
> > Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
> >
>
> Has anyone ever sent a message to the whole list by mistake????
> Obviously, Larry and Paul must be close friends!!
>
> Jerry(blushing)Calvert
> Wings & Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
The message below was totally uncalled for! This is a place to get help not
nasty comments.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>
>>Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
>
>No problem.
>
>>I did find the washers
>
>Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>
>>I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
>>I might have found what I needed!
>
>Ya, blame it on the manual.
>
>>Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
>>up out of the door!
>>
>
>Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Cecil:
It is ok to publish this in any EAA or any RV
newsletter. I sent out a similar copy with one
additional paragraph to EAA 1000 (the extra paragraph
was about one of their members), EAA 448, and The Bay
Area RVators. If you want the unedited copy, contact
me off list.
Gary
--- cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi Gary,
> Is it OK to put this piece in the Chapter 723
> newsletter?
> Maybe generate some interest here.
> Cecil Hatfield
>
>
> Sobek"
> writes:
>
> >
> >R.A.C.E. (Rutan And Composite Enthusiasts) had
> their
> >Mesquite, NV event on Sunday 31 October. Metal
> >airplanes are welcome and there is even a RV class.
>
> >People flying metal airplanes were treated just
> like
> >everyone else. They all had one common
> denominator,
> >we all LOVE to fly.
> >
> >The first heat had the faster 9 airplanes. The
> course
> >was two laps from Mesquite (67L) to Mormon Mesa VOR
> >(MMM) to Perkins (U08) back to 67L. The start is a
> >flying start with all the airplanes coming down the
> >chute side by side doing 120 mph. The "PACE" EZ
> does
> >a pull-up (Chandelle) and the race is on. I did
> not
> >get all the speeds written down but a TSIO powered
> >Lancair IV set the fastest speed ever recorded at
> any
> >of the R.A.C.E. events at just under 300 MPH. The
> >second heat of 11 airplanes had the RV class in it.
>
> >Since I knew (and have flown with) all the RVs that
> >were there, I expected that I would take 4th place.
> I
> >had the biggest RV airplane with the smallest
> engine.
> >This would still allow me to gather information and
> >improve my score next time.
> >
> >The results of the first 4 finishers in the RV
> class
> >were as follows.
> >1. 231.55 N78TM 160 hp RV-3
> Tom McIntyre
> >
> >2. 212.54 N67WL 180 hp RV-6A
> Werner Berry
> >
> >3. 207.57 N240LT 180 hp RV-6
> Joe Mayer
> >
> >4. 195.79 N157GS 160 hp RV-6
> Gary A. Sobek
> >
> >
> >The next R.A.C.E. event is the weekend following
> >Thanksgiving at Jean, NV. (0L7) There is some kind
> of
> >event on Saturday but I did not know what it was.
> >Another race would be on Sunday. Sure would be
> nice
> >if more RV's showed up.
> >
> >After having now been to two different events
> (races)
> >as a participant, I can only say that this is a lot
> of
> >FUN and worth doing. There are a lot of GREAT
> >aviation people to meet and have fun with. I may
> >never win an event, but I am having enough FUN to
> keep
> >doing it. Everyone participation in these events
> is
> >professional and does not do anything that is
> unsafe.
> >
> >
> >====
> >Gary A. Sobek
> >"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> >So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>The message below was totally uncalled for! This is a place to get help not
>nasty comments.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
I totally agree that these type of comments to the list are inappropriate.
Please be real careful to whom you are sending mail to. I have younger eyes
that follow this RV-list in my home and I don't feel that this type of
language is called for. I am surprised that the author of the message below
would send that type of message to a 'friend'. It seems that "friends"
deserve better.
Go ahead and flame me if you must. but we all have the priviledge of
standing up for our convictions. Now I must get back to building my flyin'
machine.
Doug Murray Under the cowl sorting out wires & controls.
Southern Alberta
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:52 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
>>
>>No problem.
>>
>>>I did find the washers
>>
>>Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>>
>>>I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
>>>I might have found what I needed!
>>
>>Ya, blame it on the manual.
>>
>>>Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>>>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things
sticking
>>>up out of the door!
>>>
>>
>>Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
>
> I just shot my first coat of S.W. P60-G2 last night and I have a
> quick question
> for anyone who has used this stuff before....
>
> How do you know when you have coated your work enough??? How green
> do you want
> your finished product to be? This stuff sprays on with the
> consistency of
> water. I made about two dozen hooks to hang my stuff to be primed
> up from the
> top of my paint booth and I can now see that this was wasted effort.
> Just as
> soon as I shoot primer on the hanging stuff, it all promptly runs
> right off.
> How does anyone ever prime a vertical surface with this stuff.
>
The P60-G2 needs to be sprayed just heavy enough that it wets the part.
If it is running of you are spraying it way to heavy.
When it is dry it will have a very light green tint (like green
anodizing).
A heavy buildup is bad. It will not adhere well and takes a long time to
dry. It will also scratch off easily if coated to heavy.
When properly sprayed you can still faintly see the rolling/milling
pattern in the aluminum surface and it should be dry enough to handle
within 10 minutes or so (depending on temp and humidity).
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Jim, you are spraying the primer much too heavily. The proper technique
is almost a dust coat. Apply one very light coat to everything, then,
since the light coat dries so quickly, you can come right back with
another very light coat and you are done. The finished primer is
transparent so don't try to cover the parts as you would with a
conventional finish. If the primer is applied too heavy, not only will
it run, but it will not be durable.
As has been suggested, mixing the primer 1:2 instead of 1:1.5 results in
a more pleasing gray anodized look instead of putrid green.
Matter of fact, why should we even prime alcl........oops! I almost
stepped on a land mine!
Sam Buchanan
"The Rv Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-----------------------
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> I just shot my first coat of S.W. P60-G2 last night and I have a quick question
> for anyone who has used this stuff before....
>
> How do you know when you have coated your work enough??? How green do you want
> your finished product to be? This stuff sprays on with the consistency of
> water. I made about two dozen hooks to hang my stuff to be primed up from the
> top of my paint booth and I can now see that this was wasted effort. Just as
> soon as I shoot primer on the hanging stuff, it all promptly runs right off.
> How does anyone ever prime a vertical surface with this stuff.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N76540 |
> I am pleased to report that another RV has turned into a magic carpet
today. Here are the details:
Builder/Pilot: Gene Gaddis, Tucson, AZ
Airport: Tucson International
Aircraft: N76540
Type: RV8 QB
Serial: #80733
Engine: Aerosport O360 w/ Bendix Fuel Injection
Prop: Hartzel C/S
Weight: 1074 lbs.
Instruments: Day VFR
Max. Alt.: 5000 MSL, 2500 AGL
Max. Speed: 150 MPH via GPS
Duration: 30 minutes
RVGrin: 14.75 inches corner-to-corner
Squawks: Left wing a little heavy, Airspeed indicator erratic, a bit rich
at idle, otherwise PERFECT!!!
Really a beautiful flight, great 3 point landing.
Mel Jordan
RV6A waiting for my engine to come
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
I will be getting some O-320's and O360's in shortly if anyone is interested
contact me off list.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engines
>
> Hello all,
>
> Just seen article in AvWeb that Embry Riddle are to convert all their 172s
> to 180 HP. Should leave a few o320s on the market over there. Maybe
first
> in first served.
> Regards Les Rowles.
> Les Rowles.
> Traralgon Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parr <rrparr(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Upholstery Products |
Please forward me a price sheet on interiors for RV-4 and if you have a site
with pictures forward that also.
Lisa Parr
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 7:59 PM
>Subject: RV-List: RV Upholstery Products
>
>
>>
>>RV Builders:
>>
>>I recently moved to Las Vegas and am now back on line. Please note my new
>>telephone number and e-mail address. Thank you for your patience!
>>
>>I have been in the upholstery business for 27 years and have been making
>>upholstery products for kitplanes for 15 years. I have interior kits
>>available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
>>other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
>>manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
>>request.
>>
>>For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
>>207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. Photos available upon
>>request.
>>
>>Sincerely,
>>KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
>>"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>>
>>Sam Knight
>>
>>
>>I AM LOOKING TO HAVE AN INTERIOR MADE FOR MY RV-6. I WOULD LIKE MORE INFO
>ON YOUR KITS THANKS
>MIKE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
In a message dated 11/2/99 12:04:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< I might even put in
a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
up out of the door! >>
I used two Camloc latches (p/n KM680 from Chief) on the oil filler door and
one on the gascolator door, as they are flush push buttons and they don't
whack your finger as can the Hartwells.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
In the newest issue of The RVator the website of Vansaircraft.com in not
mentioned even once.......Jim Brown,NJ, RV-3(160)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
Where is your gascolator door located? I have been trying to decide if I
should use a gascolator with a remote drain device (ala Cessna). Are you
using a door to access the gascolator?
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>In a message dated 11/2/99 12:04:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com
>writes:
>
><< I might even put in
> a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
> up out of the door! >>
>
>I used two Camloc latches (p/n KM680 from Chief) on the oil filler door and
>one on the gascolator door, as they are flush push buttons and they don't
>whack your finger as can the Hartwells.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N76540 |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> > I am pleased to report that another RV has turned into a magic
> carpet
> today. Here are the details:
>
> Builder/Pilot: Gene Gaddis, Tucson, AZ
> Airport: Tucson International
> Aircraft: N76540
> Type: RV8 QB
> Serial: #80733
> Engine: Aerosport O360 w/ Bendix Fuel Injection
> Prop: Hartzel C/S
> Weight: 1074 lbs.
> Instruments: Day VFR
> Max. Alt.: 5000 MSL, 2500 AGL
> Max. Speed: 150 MPH via GPS
> Duration: 30 minutes
> RVGrin: 14.75 inches corner-to-corner
>
> Squawks: Left wing a little heavy, Airspeed indicator erratic, a
> bit rich
> at idle, otherwise PERFECT!!!
>
> Really a beautiful flight, great 3 point landing.
>
>
> Mel Jordan
> RV6A waiting for my engine to come
>
Please pass my congratulations on to Gene.
What was his construction time using a Q.B. kit?
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Hangar space at FTH (Front Range, Denver) |
Listers,
Any one interested in a monthly share of a 48x48 heated hanger at FTG in
Denver please drop me a note. At this point I have one other committed
partner who is building a 6A. I have a maybe that I don't think will pan
out. The hanger can possibly fit 4 under construction, two up front two
in the back. 3 aircraft would not be as tight but rent would be higher.
So, if winter is approaching and you are tired of working in a cold
garage and the wife is complaining about another winter with the car
outside, give me a shout.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - The paint will start flowing soon
Pine Junction, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
Hi Listers,
I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened
across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least
according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although
I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
burning variety...
Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on
the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card
compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd
have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the
nod? Comments and thought's???
The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
Glossy Promo
http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
Brief Feature List
http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
Installation and Application Notes:
http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do
have an aircraft version for $3000...
Matt Dralle
-----------
Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
(Well, some nights anyway...)
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Jumper wire on key switch |
I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the jumper
go between?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | New Major Mod Reg for Experimentals |
Very interesting change to simplification of homebuilt certifications. FAA
approval no longer required for major mod of an experimental, you document
in aircraft log and do flight test of five hours and record results. Its
all on page 9, November issue of Sport Aviation, EAA Hot Line.
Anyone with ties to the insurance industry care to comment on potential
impact? In the past, at least one major aviation insuror has declined to
pay on a policy using as justification the fact that the builder had not
gotten an FAA inspection after making a mod to the fuel system.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
I've thought about that same module as well. My only concern was if
there is an electrical system problem, the GPS and the elctronic compass
goes away...then you're down to IFR (Roads, Railroads, Rivers). I
wonder if those electronic ones behave like a wet compass...you know the
lagging and momentary reversed spin thing...doubt they do that since
they aren't like a gyroscope.
Scott
RV4 tailkit
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened
> across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
> your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
> Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least
> according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
> They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although
> I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
> burning variety...
>
> Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on
> the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card
> compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd
> have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the
> nod? Comments and thought's???
>
> The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
> plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
>
> Glossy Promo
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
>
> Brief Feature List
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
>
> Installation and Application Notes:
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
>
> Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do
> have an aircraft version for $3000...
>
> Matt Dralle
> -----------
> Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
> Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
> (Well, some nights anyway...)
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Change to FAA policy on Certification/Inspection of Major Modifications |
on Homebuilts
Jim,
If you receive the EAA Sport Aviation, turn to page 9 of the November
issue. There is an article there, that if I interpret it correctly
eliminates the need for any FAA involvement when a major mod to a homebuilt
is accomplished. There are log book entries as well as a five hour test
segment that must be adhered to, but no FAA notification/involvement.
Given that at least once, in the past, your company declined to pay on a
claim due to the fact that the builder had not received an FAA
inspection/certification of a mod to a fuel system, I was interested in how
you believe this change will affect your policies. You may want to get the
jump on the inevitable questions I am sure this article will generate.
Sincerely
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Matt,
I don't think this unit is very useful for navigation. It has a digital readout
and it's resolution is in 5 degree increments. How do you fly a heading of 278
degrees when the compass only reads 275 or 280 degrees??
Charlie Kuss
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened
> across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
> your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
> Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least
> according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
> They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although
> I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
> burning variety...
>
> Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on
> the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card
> compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd
> have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the
> nod? Comments and thought's???
>
> The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
> plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
>
> Glossy Promo
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
>
> Brief Feature List
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
>
> Installation and Application Notes:
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
>
> Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do
> have an aircraft version for $3000...
>
> Matt Dralle
> -----------
> Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
> Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
> (Well, some nights anyway...)
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
>
>I used two Camloc latches (p/n KM680 from Chief) on the oil filler
>door and
>one on the gascolator door, as they are flush push buttons and they
>don't
>whack your finger as can the Hartwells.
Gary,
I just tried to order these Camloc Latches from Chief. They said that
they were discontinued.
Does anybody know another source. I checked ACS and Wicks and couldn't
find them in the
catalog.
I saw one of these latches at SWRFI on an RV and it really looked and
worked great.
If anyone has another source, I surely would like to find one.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
RV6A
Rotan TX
Plumbing the Engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
It is listed in the AS&S catalog around p 353
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 1:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the jumper
>go between?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>I've thought about that same module as well. My only concern was if
>there is an electrical system problem, the GPS and the elctronic compass
>goes away...then you're down to IFR (Roads, Railroads, Rivers). I
>wonder if those electronic ones behave like a wet compass...you know the
>lagging and momentary reversed spin thing...doubt they do that since
>they aren't like a gyroscope.
Unlike the heavy iron certified birds, there is no reason for
an amateur built airplane to suffer an electrcial emergency.
With rudimentary analysis of failure modes, architecture
that fosters "plan-b" operating techniques, and preventative
maintenance (replace that battery when it's capacity is down
to 50% . . . NOT when it fails to crank the engine for the
10th time), electrical failures are not "emergencies" rather
"events requiring maintenance." That's why we call it the
essential bus . . . not the emergency bus.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
With a Mag compass it is difficult to hold a heading in turbulence to 5
degrees at best. One can estimate just like any other instrument to at
least half divisions. Your AH is a better place to try and hold headings.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Digital Compass...
>
>Matt,
>I don't think this unit is very useful for navigation. It has a digital
readout
>and it's resolution is in 5 degree increments. How do you fly a heading of
278
>degrees when the compass only reads 275 or 280 degrees??
>Charlie Kuss
>
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and
happened
>> across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
>> your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
>> Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at
least
>> according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
>> They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes,
although
>> I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
>> burning variety...
>>
>> Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information
on
>> the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical
card
>> compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup,
you'd
>> have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give
the
>> nod? Comments and thought's???
>>
>> The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
>> plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
>>
>> Glossy Promo
>>
>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
>>
>> Brief Feature List
>>
>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
>>
>> Installation and Application Notes:
>>
>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
>>
>> Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do
>> have an aircraft version for $3000...
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> -----------
>> Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
>> Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
>> (Well, some nights anyway...)
>>
>> --
>>
>> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
>
>I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the jumper
>go between?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
Between the "R" (right mag terminal) and the adjacent "GRD"
(ground terminal).
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
I went out and looked at the "airpath" compass I have in the garage. The
divisions are 5 degrees apart so Charlie's whole hypothesis is flawed. Use
the AH your headings!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Digital Compass...
>
>With a Mag compass it is difficult to hold a heading in turbulence to 5
>degrees at best. One can estimate just like any other instrument to at
>least half divisions. Your AH is a better place to try and hold headings.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 6:45 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Digital Compass...
>
>
>>
>>Matt,
>>I don't think this unit is very useful for navigation. It has a digital
>readout
>>and it's resolution is in 5 degree increments. How do you fly a heading of
>278
>>degrees when the compass only reads 275 or 280 degrees??
>>Charlie Kuss
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Listers,
>>>
>>> I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and
>happened
>>> across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
>>> your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
>>> Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at
>least
>>> according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
>>> They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes,
>although
>>> I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
>>> burning variety...
>>>
>>> Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information
>on
>>> the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical
>card
>>> compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup,
>you'd
>>> have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give
>the
>>> nod? Comments and thought's???
>>>
>>> The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
>>> plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
>>>
>>> Glossy Promo
>>>
>>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
>>>
>>> Brief Feature List
>>>
>>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
>>>
>>> Installation and Application Notes:
>>>
>>> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
>>>
>>> Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they
do
>>> have an aircraft version for $3000...
>>>
>>> Matt Dralle
>>> -----------
>>> Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
>>> Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
>>> (Well, some nights anyway...)
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>>> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>>> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Upholstery Products |
Lisa,
Our web site is www.fly-gbi.com and you will find all the prices and
photos there under the Interiors section. Thanks for your interest.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
> Unlike the heavy iron certified birds, there is no reason for
> an amateur built airplane to suffer an electrcial emergency.
>
> Bob . . .
:)
Gotta admire your teaching technique, Bob.
Bang the drum slowly...
Mike Thompson
Austin, Tx
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
In a message dated 11/2/99 10:23:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Where is your gascolator door located? I have been trying to decide if I
should use a gascolator with a remote drain device (ala Cessna). Are you
using a door to access the gascolator? >>
My door is right underneath the gascolator on the left side of the cowling.
It is approx 4" x 3" and allows me to see the bowl and curtis valve during
draining.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | OKAY LET'S GET DOWN TO THE FACTS |
Fact#1 You are reading this!
Fact#2 You probably haven't made your LIST CONTRIBUTION yet!
Fact#3 If you have done Fact #1 and Fact #2 still applies then technically
you are a FREE-LOADER!
Now I know that you probably don't consider yourself a free-loader. Your
neighbor probably doesn't even consider you a free-loader. You have always
paid for everything you ever received. You are a hard worker. You are even
building your own airplane and you paid for every piece of it yourself
right? Well there is still a not so small piece that you probably haven't
paid for yet. (At least not this year) You know that there is at least one
thing that you learned from "The List" that saved you some time, money, or
even embarrassment.(Or in some cases may have caused you embarrassment if
you didn't check the return address!) Any of these things have value and
you should realize the value that the "The List" has for you. Think about
it. For once we have a resource that you aren't getting forced to pay a fee
for. Matt doesn't force anyone to pay for this service to be a part of it.
He TRUSTS us to do our part. What's it worth to you? A buck a month? Two
bucks a month? Three bucks a month?? Now's your chance to thank Matt and
let him know how much you appreciate what he is doing for us. Look at it
like a great interactive aviation magazine that you determine the
subscription price of. NOW is the time to get it done. Just click on the
URL below and have your credit card ready or write that check and get it in
the mail today! After all once it's done you are....
NO LONGER A FREE-LOADER!
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Well now I have to go clean out all the exploded mice out of my
shop.........AL
(And you say you never learned anything from the list....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
JDR (www.jdr.com) sells it for $50.
Resolution 1 degree. Accuracy 2 degrees.
Page 104 in catalog #81. Sku# VECTOR-N200.
Finn
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened
> across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for
> your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision
> Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least
> according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft.
> They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although
> I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel
> burning variety...
>
> Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on
> the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card
> compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd
> have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the
> nod? Comments and thought's???
>
> The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a
> plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion.
>
> Glossy Promo
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
>
> Brief Feature List
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf
>
> Installation and Application Notes:
>
> http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf
>
> Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do
> have an aircraft version for $3000...
>
> Matt Dralle
> -----------
> Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day,
> Wild Rivet Pounder by Night!
> (Well, some nights anyway...)
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N76540 |
Another congraduations are in order. IM jealous
Terry E. Cole N 468 TC (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
Hey Bob,
What do you think of this electric compass, setting aside the essential bus
discussion. Is this thing a design the will work for us? I have seen these
digital compasses in cars and I thought they were pretty neat. They seemed
accurate, that is, when I drove into the setting sun the compass said I was
heading west.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message----- Unlike the heavy iron certified
birds, there is no reason for
an amateur built airplane to suffer an electrcial
emergency.
With rudimentary analysis of failure modes, architecture
that fosters "plan-b" operating techniques, and
preventative
maintenance (replace that battery when it's capacity is
down
to 50% . . . NOT when it fails to crank the engine for the
10th time), electrical failures are not "emergencies"
rather
"events requiring maintenance." That's why we call it the
essential bus . . . not the emergency bus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Airguide DigiGuide 2010
1 degree resolution. Lithium battery. backlight on demand. Probably
subject to all the same annoying habits as the wet compass. Bought mine on
sale for 59 bucks at JC whitney. Not yet installed in the plane.... playing
with it in my pickup truck.
Says "Auto * Marine * RV * ATV" right on the box. Should work in the RV,
right?
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone interested in buying my RV6A Project give me a call at
318-221-3503 or E-Mail me at jerrydd(at)earthlink.net. Wings,
Empennage,Fuselage and most of Finishing Kit is complete. 0 SMOH 0-360
A1A Lycoming Engine and 0 SMOH McCauley Constant Speed Prop. New
Vetterman Exhaust, Overhauled Govenor, Rocky Mountain Micro-Monitor, New
vacuum pump, New Skytech starter, New Instruments, Vans Wiring Kit, New
Fuel Pumps Mechanical and Electric, Carb and Mags, ETC...36,000 for
everything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
Gascolator door? Man, my RV-6 is more unsophisticated than I realized.
I bored two 1" diameter holes 1" apart and cut out the space between to
yield an oblong hole 1" by 2" in size. This is located just forward of
the gascolator on the bottom of the cowl and is a perfect size for
inserting the fuel sampler at the proper angle. Since the hole is on the
bottom of the cowl, it is nearly invisible.
Simplicity rules.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/jounrnal
-------------------------
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>
> Where is your gascolator door located? I have been trying to decide if I
> should use a gascolator with a remote drain device (ala Cessna). Are you
> using a door to access the gascolator?
>
> Ted
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:26 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
> >
> >In a message dated 11/2/99 12:04:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> pcondon(at)csc.com
> >writes:
> >
> ><< I might even put in
> > a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
> > up out of the door! >>
> >
> >I used two Camloc latches (p/n KM680 from Chief) on the oil filler door and
> >one on the gascolator door, as they are flush push buttons and they don't
> >whack your finger as can the Hartwells.
> >
> >-GV
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
In a message dated 11/3/99 6:17:02 AM Pacific Standard Time, whays(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I just tried to order these Camloc Latches from Chief. They said that
they were discontinued.
Does anybody know another source. I checked ACS and Wicks and couldn't
find them in the
catalog.
I saw one of these latches at SWRFI on an RV and it really looked and
worked great.
If anyone has another source, I surely would like to find one. >>
See if Chief or ACS will give you the phone number for the company that makes
the Camloc line and contact them directly for a distributor in your area.
Maybe Aviall carries them. I think that Skystar (the Kitfox folks) sells
them too. They are in Caldwell, ID.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
--- Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> JDR (www.jdr.com) sells it for $50.
>
> Resolution 1 degree. Accuracy 2 degrees.
>
> Page 104 in catalog #81. Sku# VECTOR-N200.
Neat-o... but can it be swung?
For that matter, Hey Rocky Mountain or Sam Buchanan - can the Micro
Encoder compass module be swung?
Do digitals need it? I would think so...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
> Since the hole is on the
> bottom of the cowl, it is nearly invisible.
>
> Simplicity rules.
>
> Sam Buchanan
But what about the .0005 MPH you are giving up not having a door over
that sucker?
:)
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Finn,
Same company, different compass. This one needs a display added by the
end user. There was some discussion about 1 - 2 years ago. Check the archives.
See:
http://www.precisionnavigation.com/copilotmain.html
for the compass that is useable out of the box.
A friend just bought this unit for use in his Kolb ultralight. He had one
of the cheap panel mount Chinese manufacture wet compasses that ACS sells
but could never get it properly adjusted on the compass rose so gave up on
it and bought this instead. He really likes it. Much easier to use and more
readable, digital and analog readout, built in timer, user adjusted
declination (will give true headings), etc... It also has its own battery
so can use aircraft power but in case of loss of power it has its own
back-up. He bought it from ACS.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy (still)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>JDR (www.jdr.com) sells it for $50.
>
>Resolution 1 degree. Accuracy 2 degrees.
>
>Page 104 in catalog #81. Sku# VECTOR-N200.
>
>Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
I used P60-G2 when priming my HS and followed the mixing directions.
I had a lot of trouble when spraying. It came out stringy and finally took
LOTS of pressure to get it on smooth. At the pressure I was using it would
blow the parts off the table or blow them around if they were hanging. If
you are going to use this stuff, mix it 2:1 and use a VERY light coat. It
should be almost translucent.
I did not do my homework as well as I should have back then. This
is the same stuff that Vans uses and recommends, but I don't know why.
According the the Material Data Sheet, it offers insignificant corrosion
protection and needs to be top coated if you want it for corrosion
protection. If you don't want it for corrosion protection, then why prime
the enclosed parts that will not be painted (topcoated)? If your priming
for corrosion protection, P60-G2 is not the appropriate product.
Did I say I hate priming?
Mike Nellis
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/priming.htm
From: Jim_Andrews@Jim_Andrews on 11/02/99 01:30 PM
To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: RV-List: P60-G2
I just shot my first coat of S.W. P60-G2 last night and I have a
quick question
for anyone who has used this stuff before....
How do you know when you have coated your work enough??? How green
do you want
your finished product to be? This stuff sprays on with the
consistency of
water. I made about two dozen hooks to hang my stuff to be primed
up from the
top of my paint booth and I can now see that this was wasted effort.
Just as
soon as I shoot primer on the hanging stuff, it all promptly runs
right off.
How does anyone ever prime a vertical surface with this stuff.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Empennage
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Orcoteck Firewall Insulation Fire Test |
Aircraft Spruce sells an item called FiberFrax. It is 100 percent flame
proof. I put a torch to it. It just glowed, no flame at all. I don't know
if will do what you want to do. It pulls apart fairly easy. I have the
1/8" thick stuff. I could mail you a small piece if you need.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
>
>And on the same note, has any body dicovered a thin foam that is
>relatively
>fireproof for glueing on the sidewalls under the upholstery?
>
>Thank-you,
>Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
THe diode or a jumper wire?
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
> I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the
jumper
> go between?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
>Paul wrote:
>I might have found what I needed! Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things sticking
>up out of the door!
Why not Hartwells? My Deb has one and I'll bet it is also vintage 1965 and
works just fine.
Think of the drag reduction!!
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
You might post a message to Dick Martin,(martin(at)gbonline.com) he is
using the Camloc type S fasteners on his -8 and they look great!
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log/Dick%20Martin.htm
Mike
From: Vanremog@Vanremog on 11/03/99 09:59 AM
To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
In a message dated 11/3/99 6:17:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
whays(at)juno.com
writes:
that
they were discontinued.
Does anybody know another source. I checked ACS and Wicks and
couldn't
find them in the
catalog.
I saw one of these latches at SWRFI on an RV and it really looked
and
worked great.
If anyone has another source, I surely would like to find one. >>
See if Chief or ACS will give you the phone number for the company
that makes
the Camloc line and contact them directly for a distributor in your
area.
Maybe Aviall carries them. I think that Skystar (the Kitfox folks)
sells
them too. They are in Caldwell, ID.
-GV
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
>
>Where is your gascolator door located?
DOOR? What door?
Am I doing something wrong? I have the Andair gasco and just a small hole
in bottom for poking in the cup's pin.
hal
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Already done...just bought one from a local FBO yesterday...I have begun the
installation, and can definitely tell that it will look much nicer than the
camlocs sticking up out of the cowl. Now I just have to fill those darn
holes that I drilled!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
>
>Why not Hartwells? My Deb has one and I'll bet it is also vintage 1965 and
>works just fine.
>
>Think of the drag reduction!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
Maybe it is a diode...it is the heat shrunk jumper that comes with the
switch..If I am installing an electronic ignition (Jeff Rose) will I still
need this wire/diode?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryan E. Files <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>THe diode or a jumper wire?
>**** Bryan E. Files ****
>Ever Fly Maintenance
>Palmer, Alaska
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
>To: RV List
>Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 3:20 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>
>>
>> I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the
>jumper
>> go between?
>>
>> Paul Besing
>> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>> http://members.home.net/rv8er
>> Finish Kit
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Air inlet / IO360 |
Ive got an airflow perf injector on an IO-360 A1B6 sump (horizontal
pointed forward). I don't seem to have enough room for Van's S duct
inlet from the left baffle. Has anyone had or fixed this problem?
Modify with chin scoop; but then what kind of air filter?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
The Microencoder compass module is swung by pressing a recessed button on
the unit, turning it 180 degrees then pressing the button again. It works
great on my kitchen counter. Very fast response, exact readings when turned
back to the same reference marks. When tilted up or down more than about 20
degrees, accuracy goes way down. I plan on a gimbal mount like Sam B.
fabricated for his to minimize these errors on all but very steep climbs or
descents. It does not appear to have any of the other negative
characteristics associated with a wet compass. Having heading information
fed out the serial stream to the GPS will be a nice feature too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator door (was Camlocs in oil door) |
>
>> Since the hole is on the
>> bottom of the cowl, it is nearly invisible.
>>
>> Simplicity rules.
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
>
>But what about the .0005 MPH you are giving up not having a door over
>that sucker?
>- Mike
>
That's exactly what I was thinking when I used one of those round Camloc
doors with a larger plate riveted to the center in the shape of my opening.
I figure that if I ever get in a cross country race with Sam's bird, say
over about a 500 mile course, I should easily beat him to the finish line
by......about 6 feet!
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting......now with HVLP"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
If that wire has a 1/4" eye on one end and a #10 eye on the other then you
install it on your starter selenoid. Here is the AD and SB.
93-05-06
ACS Products Company and Grades Products Company
Amendment 39-8511Docket 92-NM-165-AD
Applicability: ACS and Gerdes ignition switches; as installed in, but not
limited to, Piper Model
PA-38-112 series airplanes, Schweizer Model G-164 series (including Model
G-164A, G-164B, and
G-164C) airplanes, Schweizer Model 2-37 and 2-37A series airplanes, and the
following Cessna
airplanes; certificated in any category:
Cessna Model
Serial Numbers 150 15074428 through 15079405
A150 A1500389 through A1500734
F150 F15001024 through F15001428
FRA150 FRA1500212 through FRA1500336
152 15279406 through 15286033
A152 A1520735 through A1521049
F152 F15201429 through F15201980
FA152 FA1520337 through FA1520425
172 17261486 through 17276673
R172 R1722000 through R1723454
172RG 172RG0001 through 172RG1191
F172 F17201045 through F17202254
FR172 FR17200441 through FR17200675
177 17701890 through 17702752
177RG 177RG0342 through 177RG1366
F177RG F177RG0093 through F177RG0177
180 18052317 through 18053203
182 18261786 through 18268615
R182 R18200001 through R18202041
A182 A182-0137 through A182-0148
F182 F18200001 through F18200169
FR182 FR18200001 through FR18200070
185 18502154 through 18504448
U206 U20601980 through U20607020
207 20700222 through 20700788
210 21059893 through 21065009
P210 P21000001 through P21000874
Compliance: Required as indicated, unless accomplished previously.
To prevent failure of ignition switches, accomplish the following:
(a) Within 100 flight hours after the effective date of this AD, or at the
next annual inspection,
whichever occurs first, perform an inspection of the ignition switch to
detect wear and
corrosion, and lubricate the switch, in accordance with ACS Service Bulletin
SB 92-01,
dated August 15, 1992; or Cessna Service Bulletin SEB 91-5, Revision 1,
June 14, 1991. If
wear or corrosion is detected, prior to further flight, replace the switch
in accordance with the
service bulletin. Repeat this inspection and lubricate the ignition switch
in accordance with
the service bulletin, thereafter, at intervals not to exceed 2,000 flight
hours.
NOTE
ACS ignition switches that do not have a "start" position (models A-510-1
and A-510-5) or
were manufactured on or after February 20, 1989, and have not accumulated
2,000 flight
hours, need not be lubricated. The manufacture date is stamped on the
switch body. These
switches are identifiable by red paint in the screw heads on the back of the
switch. However,
manufacturer lubricated switches that have a "start" position, but do not
have a starter
solenoid diode, must be inspected and modified.
(b) Within 100 flight hours after the effective date of this AD, or at the
next annual inspection,
whichever occurs first, inspect the ignition switch installation to
determine if a diode or other
surge suppressor is installed on the starter solenoid. If one is not
installed, prior to further
flight,install a starter solenoid diode in accordance with ACS Service
Bulletin SB 92-01,
dated August 15, 1992; or Cessna Service Bulletin SEB 91-5, Revision 1,
dated June 14,
1991.
NOTE
For operators using the Cessna service bulletin to install the diode in the
starter solenoid:
The procedures for installation are contained in Attachment to Service
Bulletin SEB 91-5R1,
Revision 1, dated June 14, 1991.
An alternative method of compliance or adjustment of the compliance time
that provides an acceptable
level of safety may be used if approved by the Manager, Los Angeles Aircraft
Certification Office (ACO),
FAA, Transport Airplane Directorate. Operators shall submit their requests
through an appropriate FAA
Principal Maintenance Inspector, who may add comments and then send it to
the Manager, Los
Angeles ACO.
NOTE
Information concerning the existence of approved alternative methods of
compliance with this
AD, if any, may be obtained from the Los Angeles ACO.
(d) Special flight permits may be issued in accordance with FAR 21.197 and
21.199 to operate
the airplane to a location where the requirements of this AD can be
accomplished.
(e) The inspection, lubrication, replacement, and modification shall be done
in accordance with
ACS Service Bulletin SB92-01, dated August 15, 1992; or Cessna Service
Bulletin
SEB91-5, Revision 1, dated June 14, 1991, which includes Attachment to
Service Bulletin
SEB91-5R1, Revision 1, dated June 14,1991. This incorporation by reference
was approved
by the Director of the Federal Register in accordance with 5 U.S.C. 552(a)
and 1 CFR Part
51. Copies may be obtained from ACS Products Company, P.O. Box 152, 1585
Copper
Drive, Lake Havasu City, Arizona 86403-0008; or Cessna Aircraft Company,
Customer
Services, P.O. Box 7704, Wichita, Kansas 67277. Copies may be inspected at
the FAA,
Transport Airplane Directorate, 1601 Lind Avenue, SW., Renton, Washington;
or at the Los
Angeles Aircraft Certification Office, 3229 East Spring Street, Long Beach,
California; or at
the Office of the Federal Register, 800 North Capitol Street, NW., suite
700, Washington, DC.
(f) This amendment becomes effective on April 29, 1993.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT:
Roy McKinnon, Aerospace Engineer, Propulsion Branch, ANM-140L, Los Angeles
Aircraft Certification
Office, FAA, Transport Airplane Directorate, 3229 East Spring Street, Long
Beach, California
90806-2425; telephone (310) 988-5247; fax (310) 988-5210.
ACS SERVICE BULLETIN SB92-01
PURPOSE
This Service Bulletin provides instructions for inspection and lubrication
of ignition switches
manufactured by Gerdes Products Co. or ACS Products Co. and for installation
of a diode across the
starter solenoid coil.
This Bulletin applies to all Gerdes and ACS ignition switches except the
following:
(1) ACS ignition switches without a "Start" position (models A-510-1 and
A-510-5)
manufactured on or after February 20, 1989 which have not reached 2,000
hours of
service.
(2) Gerdes and ACS ignition switches which have been manufactured for Cessna
Aircraft
Company. All Cessna switches will be inspected in accordance with Cessna
Service
Bulletin No. SEB91-5R1. Any required replacement parts and/or starter
solenoid diodes
will be obtained from a Cessna Service Center. Operators should contact a
Cessna
Service Center for further information.
NOTE
All ACS ignition switches manufactured on or after February 20, 1989 have
been lubricated.
These switches may be identified by the presence of red paint in the screw
heads on the
back of the switch and by the manufacturing date stamped on the switch body.
Those
lubricated switches with a "Start" position which have been operated without
a starter
solenoid diode must still be inspected as described in this Service
Bulletin. After compliance
with this Service Bulletin, these switches need not be reinspected until
they have reached
their 2,000-hour service life.
COMPLIANCE TIME
Compliance with this Service Bulletin should be accomplished within the next
100 hours of operation or
annual inspection, whichever occurs first.
After initial compliance with this Service Bulletin, the ignition switch
should be reinspected and
lubricated every 2,000 hours of operation.
APPROVAL
FAA approval has been obtained on technical data in this Service Bulletin.
MATERIALS
The items required for accomplishment of this Service Bulletin are available
from the following
authorized distributors of ACS Products Co.
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. Wicks Aircraft Supply
P.O. Box 424 410 Pine Street
Fullerton, CA 92632 Highland, IL 62249
(714) 870-7551 (618) 654-7447
Item
P/N Price
Ignition Switch Parts/Lubricant Kit A-3650 $18.00
Diode Assembly for Single-Contact Solenoid Coil 16050-1 $ 8.00
Diode Assembly for Two-Contact Solenoid Coil 16050-2 $ 8.00
Page 2 of 3
ACCOMPLISHMENT INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE
COMPLIANCE WITH THIS SERVICE BULLETIN ON CERTIFICATED AIRCRAFT MUST BE
ACCOMPLISHED BY A LICENSED AIRCRAFT MECHANIC.
Disassembly
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the ignition switch from the instrument panel.
NOTE
If the wiring is of sufficient length to permit the switch to be positioned
for disassembly,
proceed to Step 3. Otherwise, disconnect all wires and label the wires for
reinstallation.
CAUTION
WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH WIRES ARE DISCONNECTED, OR WHEN
THE IGNITION SWITCH IS DISASSEMBLED (STEP 3, BELOW), BOTH
MAGNETOS ARE "HOT". IF THE PROPELLER IS MOVED DURING
THIS TIME, THE ENGINE MAY FIRE AND CAUSE SERIOUS OR FATAL
INJURY TO PERSONNEL.
3. Hold the switch assembly with the terminal board on top. Remove two
screws and two
washers from the terminal board. Lift the terminal board from the switch
body, being
careful not to lose the springs and triangular cups.
4. Remove the three springs and three triangular cups from the switch body.
Cleaning
Clean the contacts on the terminal board and on the three triangular cups
with alcohol.
Inspection
Inspect the contacts on the terminal board and on the three triangular cups
for excessive wear
or corrosion. Also examine the back of the terminal board for loose
terminals.
If the silver plating on the contacts of the terminal board or triangular
cups is worn through to the
brass or if they are burned or pitted from arcing or are corroded, they
should be replaced.
Lubrication
Apply a thin coating of Beacon P-290 Lubricant to the contacts on the
terminal board and the
three triangular cups. Be sure that all contacts are coated but avoid heavy
lubricant buildups.
Reassembly
Reassemble the switch, using new parts if required. Be careful to position
the springs and
triangular cups so that there is no binding in the body. Secure the terminal
board to the switch
body with the retaining washers and screws.
Page 3 of 3
To indicate compliance with this Service Bulletin, fill the heads of the two
screws on the terminal
board with red paint.
Connect the wiring if removed. Install the switch in the panel.
Installation of Starter Solenoid Diode
Solenoids with One Coil Terminal
Connect the positive end (terminal with red band) of the diode assembly (ACS
P/N 16050-1) to
the #10 stud on the front of the solenoid. Remove one of the bolts that
mount the solenoid to the
firewall and install the ground end of the diode assembly under the bolt. Be
sure that there is a
good electrical bond between the solenoid and the firewall.
Solenoids with Two Coil Terminals
Connect the diode assembly (ACS P.N 16050-2) between the two terminals,
observing the
proper polarity (the black end of the diode assembly should be connected to
the ground side of
the solenoid).
Functional Check
1. Reconnect the battery.
2. Perform a functional check of the switch by starting the engine and
checking magnetos
for normal engine RPM drop. Reduce engine RPM to idle and turn the switch
off to verify
that the "OFF" position stops the engine. After the engine stops, move
mixture control to
the "Idle Cutoff" position
33. Make an entry in the airplane logbook stating that this Service Bulletin
has been
complied with.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
> Maybe it is a diode...it is the heat shrunk jumper that comes with the
> switch..If I am installing an electronic ignition (Jeff Rose) will I still
> need this wire/diode?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bryan E. Files <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:41 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>
> >
> >THe diode or a jumper wire?
> >**** Bryan E. Files ****
> >Ever Fly Maintenance
> >Palmer, Alaska
> >A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
> >To: RV List
> >Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 3:20 PM
> >Subject: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I misplaced the instructions with my ACS key switch. Where does the
> >jumper
> >> go between?
> >>
> >> Paul Besing
> >> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> >> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> >> Finish Kit
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
--- Dave Biddle wrote:
> When tilted up or down more than
> about 20
> degrees, accuracy goes way down. I plan on a gimbal mount like Sam B.
> fabricated for his to minimize these errors on all but very steep
> climbs or descents.
Do you expect any damage to the device during acro with a setup like
that? I know it's solid state, but a stop's a stop.
Maybe some shock absorber somethingorother so it reaches its limits
gradually...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Finn Lassen wrote:
> JDR (www.jdr.com) sells it for $50.
> Resolution 1 degree. Accuracy 2 degrees.
> Page 104 in catalog #81. Sku# VECTOR-N200.
You can find the compass online (part number = VECTOR-2X) at
<http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=gr-vector>. You'll also
need a 10mA 5V PSU, and SPI interface (unless you also buy the
developer's kit), and some sort of display device. A gimballed version
costs $100.
While browsing their site, but I also found 'Light-Emitting Wire' at
<http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=gr-livewire>. At $40 for
power supply + 8" it's not exactly cheap (or it might be for 8' -- it
says 8' in one place, 8" in another). Maybe it might be usable under
bezels for instrument lighting?
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
I don't think the unit would be damaged by any type of movement short of a
high G impact. The gimbal is one axis only, just to keep it level in pitch,
not roll. See Sam Buchanan's pictures at:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 12:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Digital Compass...
--- Dave Biddle wrote:
> When tilted up or down more than
> about 20
> degrees, accuracy goes way down. I plan on a gimbal mount like Sam B.
> fabricated for his to minimize these errors on all but very steep
> climbs or descents.
Do you expect any damage to the device during acro with a setup like
that? I know it's solid state, but a stop's a stop.
Maybe some shock absorber somethingorother so it reaches its limits
gradually...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Orcoteck Firewall Insulation Fire Test |
>
>Yes I am very interested in a firewall insulation. The two things that I am
>trying to stay away from is insulation that burns and insulation that costs
>way too much. Aircraft Spruce actually sells a kit to do the RV6 for almost
>$2000. They must not sell very many. This stuff, although I'm sure is
>probably exceptional, is what I would have to call ludicrously priced.
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A 1582 hours in construction so far
Norman,
Somebody mentioned Koolmat to me recently. Take a look at:
http://www.koolmat.com/index.htm
I dont have any experience with the stuff. The guy who mentioned it
builds airplanes as a hobby and Nascar racers for a living. He recommended
it highly.
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
>
>Maybe it is a diode...it is the heat shrunk jumper that comes with the
>switch..If I am installing an electronic ignition (Jeff Rose) will I still
>need this wire/diode?
The diode is used on the starter contacts . . . it can be
moved to the starter contactor . . . or if you're using
one of our contactors, the diode is built in. If you
replace one magneto with the electronic ignition, then
make it the non-impulese coupled one . . . generally
the RIGHT one which makes the jumper unnecessary. But
now you have the problem of how to deal with controlling
and electronic ignition with a magneto switch . . .
have you considered toggle switches?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Paul, I suggest you consider the flush latch for your oil door. ACS PN
H-5000-2, page 488, $16.50. Granted that it takes a little work but I
really like the finished product...flush and easily opened.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
-6A flying through 110 hours
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured to
> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener attached
> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
> hands..this can't be right..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/3/99 4:45:46 PM GMT Standard Time, mike.nellis(at)mcd.com
writes:
<<
I used P60-G2 when priming my HS and followed the mixing directions.
I had a lot of trouble when spraying. It came out stringy and finally took
LOTS of pressure to get it on smooth. At the pressure I was using it would
blow the parts off the table or blow them around if they were hanging. If
you are going to use this stuff, mix it 2:1 and use a VERY light coat. It
should be almost translucent.
I did not do my homework as well as I should have back then. This
is the same stuff that Vans uses and recommends, but I don't know why.
According to the Material Data Sheet, it offers insignificant corrosion
protection and needs to be top coated if you want it for corrosion
protection. If you don't want it for corrosion protection, then why prime
the enclosed parts that will not be painted (topcoated)? If your priming
for corrosion protection, P60-G2 is not the appropriate product.
Did I say I hate priming?
Mike Nellis
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/priming.htm
>>
Mike
When my Quick Build -6 arrived I called Van's to find out what primer they
were using. I was told they were using Sherwin Williams Vinyl Wash Primer
but didn't know the product number because it was from the Philippines.
Because of EPA regulations, in California, the only Vinyl Wash Primer
available is E2-G973. The data sheet says in part "(Vinyl Wash Primer
E2-G973 is a 2 part, self etching primer--provides a substrate that is highly
resistant to harsh environments such as road salt, acid rain, fertilizers,
industrial detergents, or other industrial chemicals.)". That sounds pretty
good to me!
This primer is mixed 2 parts primer to 3 parts reducer sprayed at 40 to 50
PSI. It goes on very easy and dries quickly to a transparent olive green
color. I have used this primer on all my parts including steel. I primed
the alclad parts to protect the cut edges and any scratches that may be in
the alclad.
I sprayed a few aluminum and steel test panels two years ago and left them
outside. At this time there is no corrosion evident. I also overcoated a
few pieces with various spray can paints. They all are holding up well also.
In an earlier post I asked about painting directly over the wash primer in
the cockpit. My plan is to seal the wash primer with Jet Seal G2-A141 primer
sealer from a spray can. And then overcoat with S/W Ultra Interior
UIC-48667. This is a one part interior enamel for trucks so it should be
pretty durable. It can also be mixed to any color desired.
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV-6QB N46FC (reserved)
Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Well, what I REALLY meant is when the alternator fries or smoke in the
cabin forces you to turn off the master switch :)
Scott
do no archive
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> >I've thought about that same module as well. My only concern was if
> >there is an electrical system problem, the GPS and the elctronic compass
> >goes away...then you're down to IFR (Roads, Railroads, Rivers). I
> >wonder if those electronic ones behave like a wet compass...you know the
> >lagging and momentary reversed spin thing...doubt they do that since
> >they aren't like a gyroscope.
>
> Unlike the heavy iron certified birds, there is no reason for
> an amateur built airplane to suffer an electrcial emergency.
> With rudimentary analysis of failure modes, architecture
> that fosters "plan-b" operating techniques, and preventative
> maintenance (replace that battery when it's capacity is down
> to 50% . . . NOT when it fails to crank the engine for the
> 10th time), electrical failures are not "emergencies" rather
> "events requiring maintenance." That's why we call it the
> essential bus . . . not the emergency bus.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
>
>Hey Bob,
>
>What do you think of this electric compass, setting aside the essential bus
>discussion. Is this thing a design the will work for us? I have seen these
>digital compasses in cars and I thought they were pretty neat. They seemed
>accurate, that is, when I drove into the setting sun the compass said I was
>heading west.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
These are indeed the wave of the future. Further, 5 degrees of
resolution is entirely adequate for navigation, an inherently
imprecise science anyhow. If you swing the bugger to make sure
you have the rated +/- 2 degree accuracy -AND- you understand that
the readings are bogus in a turn, I think you'd find the
critter quite adequate to the task. Liquid compasses have
5 degree hash marks on them. I'd hate to try and hold anything
better than +/- 5 degrees of heading with one in anything
except glass smooth air . . . the electronic compass is not
bothered by bumps, just turns. IMNHO much superior to the slosh-pot
on the windshield.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
I have a toggle switch installed to disable the electronic ignition. So if
I am to understand this correctly, I connect the left (impluse) mag to the
starter switch as normal, and the electronic ignition to the toggle, and the
toggle gets power from the starter switch. Correct me if I am wrong,
please.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>>
>>Maybe it is a diode...it is the heat shrunk jumper that comes with the
>>switch..If I am installing an electronic ignition (Jeff Rose) will I still
>>need this wire/diode?
>
>
> The diode is used on the starter contacts . . . it can be
> moved to the starter contactor . . . or if you're using
> one of our contactors, the diode is built in. If you
> replace one magneto with the electronic ignition, then
> make it the non-impulese coupled one . . . generally
> the RIGHT one which makes the jumper unnecessary. But
> now you have the problem of how to deal with controlling
> and electronic ignition with a magneto switch . . .
> have you considered toggle switches?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orcoteck Firewall Insulation Fire Test |
>
> Tim, Would you be able to snip a small scrap of your leftovers, take it
> outside and light it on fire?
Sure. The Orcotek is composed of a green fiberglass interior (1" thick)
surrounded by a grey synthetic covering on both sides. A butane
lighter applied to the green stuff just turned it black, made it glow red
a little, and caused it to shrink a little bit. The flame applied to the
covering caused the covering to "disappear" (shrink and retreat from
the flame) without supporting combustion. The special "Orcotape"
white tape used with the insulation will smoke a bit, turn black, and
curl up. It stinks, as the adhesive burns/vaporizes. It stops reacting
as soon as the flame is removed.
Summary: Butane lighter didn't ignite Orcotek or Orcotape.
What I really like about this stuff is it's so light. I think the Orcotape
duct tape used to install it probably weighs more than the 1" thick
insulation. The 20" x 30" piece of Orcotek I have left weighs about 5
ounces, according to my little household scale. That's a lot lighter
than many of the competing products.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Already bought one..will have it installed next week.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>Paul, I suggest you consider the flush latch for your oil door. ACS PN
>H-5000-2, page 488, $16.50. Granted that it takes a little work but I
>really like the finished product...flush and easily opened.
>
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
>-6A flying through 110 hours
>
>Paul Besing wrote:
>>
>>
>> Ok..I'm stumped. It appears that there are two parts to the camloc. the
>> plate nut, and the fastener itself. The plate nut obviously is secured
to
>> the cowl with rivets. My question is, how on earth is the fastener
attached
>> to the door??? Referencing the drawing, it would appear that when you
>> unlatch the oil door, you have two camlocs that just come out in your
>> hands..this can't be right..
>>
>> Paul Besing
>> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>> http://members.home.net/rv8er
>> Finish Kit
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs in oil door |
Agreed, grow up. I hope the mouth needs help some day and finds the same
compassion.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>The message below was totally uncalled for! This is a place to get help not
>nasty comments.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:52 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs in oil door
>
>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for the numerous responses on how to secure the camloc...
>>
>>No problem.
>>
>>>I did find the washers
>>
>>Should have looked before you waisted our time.
>>
>>>I just wish the manual would have said something about it, and
>>>I might have found what I needed!
>>
>>Ya, blame it on the manual.
>>
>>>Heck, after all this, I might even put in
>>>a Hartwell latch instead...that way I won't have those two things
sticking
>>>up out of the door!
>>>
>>
>>Just fuckin great. Fickle Bitch...
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
Scott,
I am sure Electric Bob will respond to your post, but here is the short
version:
1) With proper wiring architecture, the alternator can't fry.
2) Also with the proper wiring architecture, turning off the master just
means you can now turn on the essential bus and continue the flight.
If these ideas seem weird or foreign to you, you REALLY need to read
Bob's book, "The AeroElectric Connection". It is available from a least
a couple of sources, and you can read a review of it here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/AeroElectric.html
Good luck with your project,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
----------------------------
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Well, what I REALLY meant is when the alternator fries or smoke in the
> cabin forces you to turn off the master switch :)
> Scott
> do no archive
>
> "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> >
> >
> > >I've thought about that same module as well. My only concern was if
> > >there is an electrical system problem, the GPS and the elctronic compass
> > >goes away...then you're down to IFR (Roads, Railroads, Rivers). I
> > >wonder if those electronic ones behave like a wet compass...you know the
> > >lagging and momentary reversed spin thing...doubt they do that since
> > >they aren't like a gyroscope.
> >
> > Unlike the heavy iron certified birds, there is no reason for
> > an amateur built airplane to suffer an electrcial emergency.
> > With rudimentary analysis of failure modes, architecture
> > that fosters "plan-b" operating techniques, and preventative
> > maintenance (replace that battery when it's capacity is down
> > to 50% . . . NOT when it fails to crank the engine for the
> > 10th time), electrical failures are not "emergencies" rather
> > "events requiring maintenance." That's why we call it the
> > essential bus . . . not the emergency bus.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> > < Independence Kansas: the >
> > < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> > < Your source for brand new >
> > < 40 year old airplanes. >
> > ================================
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com
> >
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
There is apparently some confusion about the mount I fabricated for the
RMI compass module. The mount is indeed a gimbal, but it is locked into
position. The gimbal is only present so the unit can be adjusted in
proper position when the RV-6 is in flight attitude. The gimbal doesn't
move as the plane is in flight.
Yes, the unit is "swung" but not in the conventional manner. My DAR
didn't require a correction card, probably because he had never seen an
electronic compass and my electronic panel was already blowing his
mind....
The RMI compass (and I suspect other solid state modules) has quite a
bit of error if the plane is pitched up/down or is rolled into a turn.
For me this is a moot point since I have hardly used the thing. If I
want heading info, I consult the Lowrance Airmap 100 which is always
powered up on the panel.
If I had it to do over again, I would probably buy a $5.00 suction cup
compass from WalMart and stick it on the canopy whenever Mr. FAA walks
by. Keep in mind that my RV is a VFR-only aircraft.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
----------------
Dave Biddle wrote:
>
>
> I don't think the unit would be damaged by any type of movement short of a
> high G impact. The gimbal is one axis only, just to keep it level in pitch,
> not roll. See Sam Buchanan's pictures at:
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 12:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Digital Compass...
>
>
> --- Dave Biddle wrote:
> > When tilted up or down more than
> > about 20
> > degrees, accuracy goes way down. I plan on a gimbal mount like Sam B.
> > fabricated for his to minimize these errors on all but very steep
> > climbs or descents.
>
> Do you expect any damage to the device during acro with a setup like
> that? I know it's solid state, but a stop's a stop.
> Maybe some shock absorber somethingorother so it reaches its limits
> gradually...
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE: Complete RV8A kit |
I am considering selling my complete RV8A kit at original cost (about
$16,000). The tail and wings are completed, and were primed internally with
veriprime. The workmanship is excellent as this is the second RV I have
built ( currently flying my RV6A N345RV ). If you are looking for a quick
built at a normal kits price, this may be your ticket. I am considering
selling only because I need the funds for another toy. If interested feel
free to contact me for more info.
Scott Johnson / Chicago, IL
scottjohnson345(at)home.com 847-985-3772
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N76540 |
Hi Scott,
I will pass your congradulations on to Gene. He spent approximately 950 to
1K hours over 15 months on his project, it really came out very nice. He
polished the plane and only painted the glass parts. Plans to keep it this
way.
Regards,
Mel Jordan
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight N76540
>
> > > I am pleased to report that another RV has turned into a magic
> > carpet
> > today. Here are the details:
> >
> > Builder/Pilot: Gene Gaddis, Tucson, AZ
> > Airport: Tucson International
> > Aircraft: N76540
> > Type: RV8 QB
> > Serial: #80733
> > Engine: Aerosport O360 w/ Bendix Fuel Injection
> > Prop: Hartzel C/S
> > Weight: 1074 lbs.
> > Instruments: Day VFR
> > Max. Alt.: 5000 MSL, 2500 AGL
> > Max. Speed: 150 MPH via GPS
> > Duration: 30 minutes
> > RVGrin: 14.75 inches corner-to-corner
> >
> > Squawks: Left wing a little heavy, Airspeed indicator erratic, a
> > bit rich
> > at idle, otherwise PERFECT!!!
> >
> > Really a beautiful flight, great 3 point landing.
> >
> >
> > Mel Jordan
> > RV6A waiting for my engine to come
> >
> Please pass my congratulations on to Gene.
>
> What was his construction time using a Q.B. kit?
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
I have a toggle switch installed to disable the electronic ignition. So if
I am to understand this correctly, I connect the left (impluse) mag to the
starter switch as normal, and the electronic ignition to the toggle, and the
toggle gets power from the starter switch. Correct me if I am wrong,
please.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 10:26 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Jumper wire on key switch
>
>
>
>>
>>>
>>>Maybe it is a diode...it is the heat shrunk jumper that comes with the
>>>switch..If I am installing an electronic ignition (Jeff Rose) will I
still
>>>need this wire/diode?
>>
>>
>> The diode is used on the starter contacts . . . it can be
>> moved to the starter contactor . . . or if you're using
>> one of our contactors, the diode is built in. If you
>> replace one magneto with the electronic ignition, then
>> make it the non-impulese coupled one . . . generally
>> the RIGHT one which makes the jumper unnecessary. But
>> now you have the problem of how to deal with controlling
>> and electronic ignition with a magneto switch . . .
>> have you considered toggle switches?
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ////
>> (o o)
>> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
>> < Independence Kansas: the >
>> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
>> < Your source for brand new >
>> < 40 year old airplanes. >
>> ================================
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air inlet / IO360 |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> Ive got an airflow perf injector on an IO-360 A1B6 sump (horizontal
> pointed forward). I don't seem to have enough room for Van's S duct
> inlet from the left baffle. Has anyone had or fixed this problem?
> Modify with chin scoop; but then what kind of air filter?
>
>
Joe,
Tell me what model RV you are working on, and I will see if I can help.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I used P60-G2 when priming my HS and followed the mixing
> directions.
> I had a lot of trouble when spraying. It came out stringy and
> finally took
> LOTS of pressure to get it on smooth.
-
It is very likely that you got a bad can of the primer.
We got a bad can recently and returned it to the store, and the sales
person said they had a few cans returned recently.
-
using
> it would
> blow the parts off the table or blow them around if they were
> hanging.
-
Unless you know something that I don't know, this happens with most any
spray gun that you would ever use.
A neat trick is to make a painting frame out of chicken wire. When the
parts are sprayed while laying on it the air isn't deflecting off of the
work surface and blowing the parts around. Instead it is able to blow
past.
-
If
> you are going to use this stuff, mix it 2:1 and use a VERY light
> coat. It
> should be almost translucent.
>
> I did not do my homework as well as I should have back then.
> This
> is the same stuff that Vans uses and recommends, but I don't know
> why.
-
Actually Van's doesn't recommend any specific primer.
The construction manual lists a # of different ones that have been used
by RV builders. A very similar product is what is used on quick build
RV-8's and 8A's. I different primer is used on the RV-6 and 6A's.
-
> According the the Material Data Sheet, it offers insignificant
> corrosion
> protection and needs to be top coated if you want it for corrosion
> protection.
-
Funny thing is... If you read the tech info and data sheet on just about
any of the primers that RV builders use... they say the exact same
thing...
No corrosion protection unless top coated.
-
If you don't want it for corrosion protection, then why
> prime
> the enclosed parts that will not be painted (topcoated)? If your
> priming
> for corrosion protection, P60-G2 is not the appropriate product.
-
And neither is most ( note, I didn't say all) of the other primers that
RV builders use, unless they are top coated.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>In a message dated 11/2/99 11:35:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
>
><< Would the FAA inspector give the
> nod? Comments and thought's??? >>
>My guess is that even if you have a "wet" compass that is very
>inaccurate that the folks at FAA will still expect to see one.
Part 91 sez "a magnetic heading indicator" . . . it doesn't
say what kind. If you've got an electric compass and dual
power sources (alternator and battery) then as near as I
can tell, you comply with the regs . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>
>Well, what I REALLY meant is when the alternator fries or smoke in the
>cabin forces you to turn off the master switch :)
It's no big deal to build an airplane's electrical system
such that ANY single electrical failure is not an emergency.
Pick any failure you want including fried alternators (although
with modern automotive alternators going onto airplanes this
is a VERY rare event). You can download the wiring diagrams
shown in the back of our book along with the builder's notes
at http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/z8_0299.pdf
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Kitfox builders? |
Fellow RVers,
Is there anyone on this list who has experience with the Kitfox? If so,
I would appreciate any input you might have on this kit, airplane in
general, etc. A local resident has talked to me about wanting to build a
Kitfox and I don't know too much about them. He is not a candidate for an
RV, kind of a "low and slow" guy.
Please respond off-list to: bskinner(at)vcn.com
Thanks,
Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | In need of a DAR |
To all gentleman from then New England area Me,NH,Vt,Ct,Ri Ma....I'm in need
of a Gentleman to inspect my RV-6 that is ready for flight. If any of you out
there have a name and tel. of someone that is reasonable and competent please
let me know. I have not been successful so far.
Thank You
Don
RV-6 N767DC..Chomping at the bit to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>
>
>The RMI compass (and I suspect other solid state modules) has quite a
>bit of error if the plane is pitched up/down or is rolled into a turn.
>For me this is a moot point since I have hardly used the thing. If I
>want heading info, I consult the Lowrance Airmap 100 which is always
>powered up on the panel.
>
One thing to bear in mind is that it is not possible to fly a heading with a
GPS alone, even though I keep reading about people doing it. A course, on
the other hand, can be flown very well with a GPS. Some may think this is
being picky, but when ATC says fly 270 they mean a 270 heading which can be
quite different than a 270 course.
Larry Pardue (ex fed)
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jumper wire on key switch |
>
>I have a toggle switch installed to disable the electronic ignition. So if
>I am to understand this correctly, I connect the left (impluse) mag to the
>starter switch as normal, and the electronic ignition to the toggle, and the
>toggle gets power from the starter switch. Correct me if I am wrong,
>please.
That's about it. Have you considered going totally
toggles with a starter push button? Alternatively,
we can show you how to combine magneto and electronic
ignition on two toggles with a spring loaded upper
position activating the starter . . . IMNHO a much
cleaner installation.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | STEVE HALL <SHALLFLY(at)earthlink.net> |
>Hi Everyone, I am looking for a "C1C" sump.
>This will replace the sump on my "IO-360-A3B6D"
>I would like to trade if possible.
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
> >The RMI compass (and I suspect other solid state modules) has quite a
> >bit of error if the plane is pitched up/down or is rolled into a turn.
> >For me this is a moot point since I have hardly used the thing. If I
> >want heading info, I consult the Lowrance Airmap 100 which is always
> >powered up on the panel.
> >
>
>
>One thing to bear in mind is that it is not possible to fly a heading with
>a
>GPS alone, even though I keep reading about people doing it. A course, on
>the other hand, can be flown very well with a GPS. Some may think this is
>being picky, but when ATC says fly 270 they mean a 270 heading which can be
>quite different than a 270 course.
>
>Larry Pardue (ex fed)
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
Larry,
Are you SURE you have that ATC part right? I've always thought that ATC
course directives were referring to the magnetic track they expect my
aircraft to take across the ground. Why would any crab angle to maintain
that ground track (due to crosswind), or "heading" as I understand it, be of
any help to them to maintain aircraft separation?
I fully agree that a GPS is of no direct use for heading information, but
that's fine by me, since I'm only concerned with the ground track I am
maintaining with whatever crab angle I've decided upon anyway.
Was nice meeting you at Copperstate! I hope to be flying soon....which could
mean weeks, months or even years if I don't get back to the hangar!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connection Plugs |
>I would like to install a two pin plug at the electric flap motor so that it
>may be removed easily.
I was going to do that but decided that it would be easier, long run, to
snip wires for removal and butt splice them back. Gets me in the air sooner.
If you are building RVs like Chevrolet does cars, then you could justify
the time and expense of connectors due to making the final assembly run
faster and smoother. Maybe.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Friend of mine wants to know if an 0360 oil sump will fit on an 0320.
Anyone know for sure?
Thanks
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish kit size |
Mike
Dug up the shipping info on my -6QB finish kit. Weight 330 lbs., cost
$150.00 to ship from Van's to Oakland, Ca. The box was approx. 8X4X3 feet.
Hope this helps
Cash Copeland
Oakland, Ca
RV-6QB N46FC (reserved)
Still working on the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox builders? |
Bob, I have a Denny kitfox Model IV which I completed in Jan. 96. RV4
building. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish kit size |
the box I have for the rv8 is appox 4x4x8' makes a nice table for the other
work and is a constant reminder that you still have it to go.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>Are you SURE you have that ATC part right? I've always thought that ATC
>course directives were referring to the magnetic track they expect my
>aircraft to take across the ground. Why would any crab angle to maintain
>that ground track (due to crosswind), or "heading" as I understand it, be of
>any help to them to maintain aircraft separation?
Yes, ATC is asking for a heading. It's unreasonable for ground
controllers to expect a pilot to fly a ground track when the rule
was crafted 40-50 years ago. The world was magnetic all the way . . .
that's why none of VORs point to true north. When ATC gives you
the number, you read it from the compass . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connection Plugs |
In a message dated 11/3/99 23:05:23, kempthorne(at)earthlink.net writes:
>I would like to install a two pin plug at the electric flap motor so that it
>may be removed easily.
I was going to do that but decided that it would be easier, long run, to
snip wires for removal and butt splice them back. Gets me in the air sooner.
If you are building RVs like Chevrolet does cars, then you could justify
the time and expense of connectors due to making the final assembly run
faster and smoother. Maybe.
>>
Amen to that. First of all I look at all the connectors I have put in and
not used in 500 hours and second of all 98.7% of all my "in service"
electrical problems have been connector related.
DL Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Flaps Question |
These questions are for those with the electric flaps:
1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the electric flap motor
push rod from becoming loose? The existing locknut would not adequately
lock the rod end bearing to the motor push rod.
2) Is it typical to drill a hole through both the rod and end bearing and use a
cotter pin to keep them from becoming loose?
There must be a solution to this problem since there are so many RV's out there
with the electric flaps.
Thanks
T.Nguyen
RV-6A Engine Installation & Instrument Panel
("Think Big " 747TN reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 0320 oil sump |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
>
> Friend of mine wants to know if an 0360 oil sump will fit on an
> 0320.
> Anyone know for sure?
> Thanks
> Tom>
>Tom, the sump from a 360 and 320 will interchange, the problem you have
to watch for is the oil pickups and induction inlet locations. Lycoming
has made quite a few different models of sumps . Because the 0-360 is
1/2" longer stroke than the 0-320, you will find the induction tubes from
the sump to the cylinders to be different lengths. (1/2" longer on the
0-360) Also be aware that the induction tubes come in different diameters
and shapes so you have to match the tubes to the sump you will be using.
The only way to be "sure" that the parts will interchange is to
physically try the parts for correct fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler hookup |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Walt, I did not see any reply to your question, so I will throw in my two
cents. On any hydraulic installation (any kind of fluid), you want to
keep the hose runs as short as possible to allow max. fluid flow with
min. pressure drop. For the same reasons you will want to use straight
fittings where ever possible. Next in order of the least restrictive is
the 45 degree fitting and finally the most restrictive is the 90 degree
fitting. The fitting angles are sometimes given or listed because that is
what people who have done installations have found to work. Lastly, make
sure the hoses are well supported with length allowance made for
movement, etc. along with gentle radius in the bends. David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connection Plugs |
> >I would like to install a two pin plug at the electric flap motor so that
it
> >may be removed easily.
> >>
>
> First of all I look at all the connectors I have put in and
> not used in 500 hours and second of all 98.7% of all my "in service"
> electrical problems have been connector related.
OK, so connectors might not be a good idea but I still need one at the
removable passenger joystick.
So instead of connectors, what do you think of Barrier Blocks? Made by Cinch
page 89 Digikey Sept-Oct 99.
How does one make sure that the terminals on one of these barrier blocks
doesn't come loose? Can Locktight be put down the screw threads?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Finish kit size |
>Can anyone tell me the size of a finish kit & weight?
>I'm expecting mine in a day or two.
>Regards Mike Comeaux
======================================
Mine was 330# & 49 inch wide & 8 foot ling for a 6A. Pick up had a bed
liner, so we used 2 wood skids up front & 2 behind from Roadway. VAn's
home page will tell you.
We slid it to the floor & Inventored it there. Then wreched the box.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
Tom,
A little non-hardening lok-tite should solve your problem. I would not
recommend drilling and the cotter pin.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Wings back off again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tube Mount |
--- MRobert569(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Would the gentleman who sells pitot tube mounts please reply to me
> offline as
> I am in need of one. I had your brochure but have misplaced it. My
> apologies to the list for taking up this space.
Here's the Yeller Page entry for Warren Gretz:
GRETZ AERO (WARREN GRETZ) 303-770-3811 gretz_aero(at)h2net.net HEATED
PITOT TUBES/BRACKETS, HYBRID ELECTRIC ELEVATOR TRIM AND TOOLKEY
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: In need of a DAR |
Eric...Where are you from?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connection Plugs |
--- BumFlyer(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> >I would like to install a two pin plug at the
> electric flap motor so that it
> >may be removed easily.
>
> I was going to do that but decided that it would be
> easier, long run, to
> snip wires for removal and butt splice them back.
> Gets me in the air sooner.
>
> If you are building RVs like Chevrolet does cars,
> then you could justify
> the time and expense of connectors due to making the
> final assembly run
> faster and smoother. Maybe.
>
> >>
>
> Amen to that. First of all I look at all the
> connectors I have put in and
> not used in 500 hours and second of all 98.7% of all
> my "in service"
> electrical problems have been connector related.
>
> DL Walsh
Norm:
Stick with your connectors. I have over 450 flying
hours on my RV-6 with NO connector problems. I also
have NO SPLICES in any of my harness. If it needs to
be connected, use a connecor or terminal board. Some
day it WILL need to be serviced and the connector
makes that possible.
I have seen 10 times as many splices fail as
connectors. Yes connectors fail also but the failure
rate I have seen in the last 20 years is MUCH lower.
I used the AMP (molex style) connectors exclusivly in
my RV-6. It is the same series of connectors that
Whelen and Cessna use on their certified products.
EAA Tech Counselor
FAA A & P
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Orcoteck Firewall Insulation Fire Test |
>Yes I am very interested in a firewall insulation.
Norman,
About 10 years ago I read an article in either "The Aviation Consumer" or
"Aviation Safety" that talked about some stuff that I believe was made by a
company called Ocean Coatings.
You would paint the material onto the firewall and if it was ever exposed
to flame, it would provide a fire resistant barrier. Although it wasn't
going to put out the fire, the author of the article said it would give you
several extra minutes to get the plane on the ground.
Perhaps someone else on the list knows more details about this product or
you might contact the publishers of "Aviation Safety" and "The Aviation
Consumer" to see if they can give you details.
Mark Schrimmer
Waiting for RV-9 tail kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skysmith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com> |
We added a link to our web site for 1000's of parts and supplies. Feel free
to check it out and see if it is competitive. You connect directly to the
warehouse, order on line and they ship your order direct to you. Seemed
like a nice service to the rest of our customers.
Look up www.skysmith.com and click on 1000's of parts and supplies. Let me
know what you think.
SkySmith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
On 4 Nov 99, at 9:47, Thomas Nguyen wrote:
> 2) Is it typical to drill a hole through both the rod and end bearing and
> use a cotter pin to keep them from becoming loose?
That's what I did, except I used safety wire.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> |
| Subject: | Electric Flaps Question |
> 1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the
> electric flap motor push rod from becoming loose?
>
> 2) Is it typical to drill a hole through both the rod and end
> bearing and use a cotter pin to keep them from becoming loose?
Thomas,
This has occured previously on flying RV's.
Mine came undone testing the motor on the ground, therefore mine's cottered
so I don't ever have to worry about it happening in the air.
Rob Acker (RV-6, FWF stuff...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
My data sheet on this paint states that it contains Zinc Chromate.
Just In case inquiring minds want to know.
Marty in Brentwood, RV6 Wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: P60-G2
>
> >
> > I used P60-G2 when priming my HS and followed the mixing
> > directions.
> > I had a lot of trouble when spraying. It came out stringy and
> > finally took
> > LOTS of pressure to get it on smooth.
> -
> It is very likely that you got a bad can of the primer.
> We got a bad can recently and returned it to the store, and the sales
> person said they had a few cans returned recently.
> -
> using
> > it would
> > blow the parts off the table or blow them around if they were
> > hanging.
> -
> Unless you know something that I don't know, this happens with most any
> spray gun that you would ever use.
> A neat trick is to make a painting frame out of chicken wire. When the
> parts are sprayed while laying on it the air isn't deflecting off of the
> work surface and blowing the parts around. Instead it is able to blow
> past.
> -
> If
> > you are going to use this stuff, mix it 2:1 and use a VERY light
> > coat. It
> > should be almost translucent.
> >
> > I did not do my homework as well as I should have back then.
> > This
> > is the same stuff that Vans uses and recommends, but I don't know
> > why.
> -
> Actually Van's doesn't recommend any specific primer.
> The construction manual lists a # of different ones that have been used
> by RV builders. A very similar product is what is used on quick build
> RV-8's and 8A's. I different primer is used on the RV-6 and 6A's.
> -
> > According the the Material Data Sheet, it offers insignificant
> > corrosion
> > protection and needs to be top coated if you want it for corrosion
> > protection.
> -
> Funny thing is... If you read the tech info and data sheet on just about
> any of the primers that RV builders use... they say the exact same
> thing...
> No corrosion protection unless top coated.
> -
> If you don't want it for corrosion protection, then why
> > prime
> > the enclosed parts that will not be painted (topcoated)? If your
> > priming
> > for corrosion protection, P60-G2 is not the appropriate product.
> -
> And neither is most ( note, I didn't say all) of the other primers that
> RV builders use, unless they are top coated.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: In need of a DAR |
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Give Andy Zitney A call. He lives in Newtown, CT. Phone (203)
270-1431
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
>
>To all gentleman from then New England area Me,NH,Vt,Ct,Ri Ma....I'm
>in need
>of a Gentleman to inspect my RV-6 that is ready for flight. If any of
>you out
>there have a name and tel. of someone that is reasonable and competent
>please
>let me know. I have not been successful so far.
>
>Thank You
>Don
>RV-6 N767DC..Chomping at the bit to fly
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
While I am on the parts scavenger mode.....Does anyone out there happen to
have a good used 12 volt high pressure fuel pump. I have been pricing these
things for our IO-360 and they are unbelievably expensive. Maybe one of you
have one for a somewhat more reasonable price.
Thanks in Advance
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Connection Plugs |
>OK, so connectors might not be a good idea but I still need one at the
>removable passenger joystick.
I took a hint from Van's trainer RV-6 and put a button on the panel for the
co-pilot's PTT. That way it's easy to remove and replace the stick without
having to mess with connectors. It's nice to be able to leave it out except
when someone wants to take a turn. (Although admittedly I still worry about
the stick becoming a projectile in an accident since I don't have a bolt
through it. I have some ideas for a quick release mechanism on the stick but
have yet to do anything about it. It does fit pretty snug anyway.)
>So instead of connectors, what do you think of Barrier Blocks? Made by
Cinch
>page 89 Digikey Sept-Oct 99.
>How does one make sure that the terminals on one of these barrier blocks
>doesn't come loose? Can Locktight be put down the screw threads?
I used some of these in the plane, and put a split lock washer under every
screw. Don't know how robust that will be.... I guess I'll find out
eventually!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Digital Compass... |
><< Would the FAA inspector give the
> nod? Comments and thought's??? >>
>My guess is that even if you have a "wet" compass that is very
>inaccurate that the folks at FAA will still expect to see one.
Perhaps, perhaps not. The regs say "magnetic compass". As the manufacturers
of our aircraft it is up to us to us to determine the most appropriate and
safe instruments for our craft. You may or may not have to "educate" the FAA
inspector that a magnetic compass is a magnetic compass (I'm sure my DAR
wouldn't have even blinked an eye at it), but I see no reason to not replace
that thing if we find something better.
I hate to see innovation stifled at the source because of a PERCEPTION that
the FAA isn't going to like it... face it, the wet compass is a dinosaur.
They're big, heavy, difficult to read, highly susceptible to error, and have
their own, quite messy, failure modes (ask me how I know!) I for one will be
glad when they dissappear from aircraft panels. I know, blasphemy! Whatever.
I had a tough time finding a place for the wet compass in my airplane that
a) fit, and b) wasn't too badly effected by the electronics. Wish I had come
across one of these electronic gizmos before I put the whiskey compass in.
As for redundancy -- I wouldn't even hook such a thing to my electrical
system if it could be powered by a small battery. That way you just have to
replace the battery every once in a while and the chances of both your
electrical system and the compass going out at the same time are awfully
slim.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
In a message dated 11/4/99 9:02:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com writes:
<< These questions are for those with the electric flaps:
1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the electric
flap motor push rod from becoming loose? The existing locknut would not
adequately lock the rod end bearing to the motor push rod. >>
The use of Loctite 271 (red) on both the rod end and the jam nut threads
works well.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Airflow Performance has the pumps for $290 new. I would not mess with a
used pump even if you could find one.
C.H.
----------
> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump
> Date: Thursday, November 04, 1999 7:41 PM
>
>
> While I am on the parts scavenger mode.....Does anyone out there happen
to
> have a good used 12 volt high pressure fuel pump. I have been pricing
these
> things for our IO-360 and they are unbelievably expensive. Maybe one of
you
> have one for a somewhat more reasonable price.
>
> Thanks in Advance
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exploding mice!!!! Wow, I gotta see that! |
If I come back as a Rodent please feel free to shoot me, poison me, trap me
or whatever so as to end my miserable rodent life that I might quicker
receive another and hopefully more fortuitous roll of the cosmic dice. Just
what we need --a MSB on the RV list. Oh please--enough--lets move on. Any
rats in my hanger will soon be moving on to their next life where I hope they
come back as cock roaches in your kitchen so you can stomp them flat. JR--if
you do not I will (stomp them)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
If the electronics affect the wet compass, won't it affect the
electronic module as well? I assume the electronic module works on
detecting magnetic lines of flux just as the wet one does. If someone
on the list has one of these modules, bring it near a magnet and/or
energized electric circuit and let us know what it does. Thanks for the
interesting discussion!
Scott
RV4 tailkit
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> ><< Would the FAA inspector give the
> > nod? Comments and thought's??? >>
> >My guess is that even if you have a "wet" compass that is very
> >inaccurate that the folks at FAA will still expect to see one.
>
> Perhaps, perhaps not. The regs say "magnetic compass". As the manufacturers
> of our aircraft it is up to us to us to determine the most appropriate and
> safe instruments for our craft. You may or may not have to "educate" the FAA
> inspector that a magnetic compass is a magnetic compass (I'm sure my DAR
> wouldn't have even blinked an eye at it), but I see no reason to not replace
> that thing if we find something better.
>
> I hate to see innovation stifled at the source because of a PERCEPTION that
> the FAA isn't going to like it... face it, the wet compass is a dinosaur.
> They're big, heavy, difficult to read, highly susceptible to error, and have
> their own, quite messy, failure modes (ask me how I know!) I for one will be
> glad when they dissappear from aircraft panels. I know, blasphemy! Whatever.
> I had a tough time finding a place for the wet compass in my airplane that
> a) fit, and b) wasn't too badly effected by the electronics. Wish I had come
> across one of these electronic gizmos before I put the whiskey compass in.
>
> As for redundancy -- I wouldn't even hook such a thing to my electrical
> system if it could be powered by a small battery. That way you just have to
> replace the battery every once in a while and the chances of both your
> electrical system and the compass going out at the same time are awfully
> slim.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | SOME READING ENTERTAINMENT |
The Hangar Of Rebirth
I have built 3 airplanes now, or is it 5 ?? Therefore, I am wise and
great of expertise and no longer make mistakes. Is that not so ??
Well, there is the odd exception as when I destroyed a simple seat pan by
drilling holes in all the wrong places and compounding that by cutting a
seat belt slot in entirely the wrong place..
I had some sheet stock cut-offs lying around, so I just cut a new one and
set off for my local airport, there to use a shear and bending brake.
Once inside, and my job done in short order, I had time to look around and
talk to the brethren builders and rebuilders, for this was the house of
Beavers reborn.
What a place of wonder, inspiration, admiration and sadness..for here lay
the broken and twisted bodies of several airplanes that once plied the
airways of the world as they were meant to.
Two examples, side by side, were a Beaver badly broken, lying next to one
fully reborn and soon on its way out the door.
When I suggested that the broken ship was a great challenge to rebuild, my
friend said, "not at all,..you should see the two we just finished,..they
were really disasters". But you wouldn't know it now.
I have seen ships that were helicoptered out of Viet Nam, markings still
there , and bullet holes still ripping the skin...Ships shot out of the
skies of Colombia, rescued by men who love this airplane and work to see 50
year old airplanes born again.
On a stand nearby was a radial engine, fresh and clean and new again, going
into a Beaver with a fresh new paint job and glorious in all its new finery.
I understand that some big names like Harrison Ford and Kenny G have had
Beavers rebuilt to the nth degree for them.....seems that others still love
this grand old bird too.
This is a big bird..even on the water, you must climb up stairs to get
aboard,...the prop and cowling stand above your head and you enter a
separate door to get into the front office. Oh ! that I could loose one
from the dock, hit the starter and see that shiny prop tick over and fire up
the radial that shakes itself like a dog coming out of the water, throttle
up, and not being able to hear your co-pilot for the roar as the prop tips
break the barrier of sound, and a rooster tail the size that hydroplanes
make follow us up river until we break free and climb away over the green
ocean.
Thanks to these craftsmen who smile a quiet knowing smile when I cry
about my little boo-boo, these wonderful wrecks are coming back and giving
us the joy of sight and sound of radials and bushplanes, because they aren't
made anymore.
I left the hangar, the smell of oil and gas and paint, the special smell of
airplanes that is a narcotic I am shamelessly addicted to, and drove to the
river to see old/new Beavers plying the waterways and making the sounds I
came to hear...a very nice day in all.
Somewhere out there, in the nether regions of the world, the jungles and
the
war zones, former and present, lie the remains of these birds and others,
and sometimes those who flew them to their end there, the rescuers are
looking for them, looking in earnest, and if they can be found, they will be
returned home from whence they came, and cared for and mended and given life
again.
Wouldn't it be grand if we could do the same for all the lost ones we yearn
to see again ?
Until then, let us remember all, wish them well...and give... Thanksgiving
These musings by Buster are just another one of the many reasons the
RV-List is such a great value. Whether it's technical information, help
with finding something you need, or just reading a neat aviation related
story.....the List has it all! What a great place to spend a few minutes
each day. How about doing your part today?
You will feel much better for it! I know I did.........
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I had a mouse explode in my box of electrical connectors and splatter all
over my digital compass.......now I have to search the archives for a good
aluminum cleaner.......Oh yeah, about the mice coming back as cockroaches,
let's not go there!!!!! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulation |
Mark,
I'm not familiar with the article that you mentioned, but I do know of a similar
product. It sounds like you are describing an intumescent paint.
When exposed to flame intumescent products (putty, paint, fillers) are designed
to expand up to fifteen times their original size or thickness to provide a porous
fire barrier that can protect for up to two hours. The paints are commonly
used for exposed steel in building construction, and the putty/fillers are
used for through-wall penetrations (piping, ductwork).
I'm not sure if it is possible to use these products for aviation applications,
but it wouldn't hurt to ask some of the manufacturers. The Hilti company comes
to mind, only because I just spoke to one of their rep's and I have a catalog
in front of me. Here is a link:
http://www.hilti.com/us/eng/sub/StaticPages2/static-923.asp
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
>>> Mark Schrimmer 11/04 3:41 PM >>>
About 10 years ago I read an article in either "The Aviation Consumer" or
"Aviation Safety" that talked about some stuff that I believe was made by a
company called Ocean Coatings.
You would paint the material onto the firewall and if it was ever exposed
to flame, it would provide a fire resistant barrier. Although it wasn't
going to put out the fire, the author of the article said it would give you
several extra minutes to get the plane on the ground.
Perhaps someone else on the list knows more details about this product or
you might contact the publishers of "Aviation Safety" and "The Aviation
Consumer" to see if they can give you details.
Mark Schrimmer
Waiting for RV-9 tail kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Placement & Hookup |
Listers,
I have spent the last several nights going through the Archives and
reading all the oil cooler postings I can find. I have even linked through
to as many photos in builders web pages to see what others have done but I
still have a couple of questions. I am using a Harrison cooler from a
Pawnee that has the inlet and exit at one end. It measures the same as the
one in Vans catalog. I would like to mount it to the left rear baffle.
1. What is the minimum clearance neccessary between the cowling and the
cooler and the engine mount?
2. Does it matter if I have the inlet and exit holes at the bottom? It
looks as though the upper/outer connection would come real close to touching
the upper cowl if I mount it with the holes up.
3. I have looked at some installations on the firewall but am not sure
how to attach the cooler to the firewall. One bulder just used two pieces
of 90 degree angle stock to bolt to the upper flange on one side and the
lower flange on the same side leaving the outer side of the cooler to
'float'. I am wondering, ( if I go with a horizontal mount on the
firewall), if I should make a bed mount for the cooler to sit on.
I appreciate the expertise in this group and thank you for your response
in advance.
If there is something in the Archives I have missed could you please
refer them to me.
Thanks again,
Doug Murray RV-6 Getting closer to flying every day!!
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
The digital compass is magnetic. Has to be to get the directional headings.
However instead of having a direct reading compass card it has an
electronically driven display.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 12:59 AM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Digital Compass...
>
>><< Would the FAA inspector give the
>> nod? Comments and thought's??? >>
>>My guess is that even if you have a "wet" compass that is very
>>inaccurate that the folks at FAA will still expect to see one.
>
>Perhaps, perhaps not. The regs say "magnetic compass". As the manufacturers
>of our aircraft it is up to us to us to determine the most appropriate and
>safe instruments for our craft. You may or may not have to "educate" the
FAA
>inspector that a magnetic compass is a magnetic compass (I'm sure my DAR
>wouldn't have even blinked an eye at it), but I see no reason to not
replace
>that thing if we find something better.
>
>I hate to see innovation stifled at the source because of a PERCEPTION that
>the FAA isn't going to like it... face it, the wet compass is a dinosaur.
>They're big, heavy, difficult to read, highly susceptible to error, and
have
>their own, quite messy, failure modes (ask me how I know!) I for one will
be
>glad when they dissappear from aircraft panels. I know, blasphemy!
Whatever.
>I had a tough time finding a place for the wet compass in my airplane that
>a) fit, and b) wasn't too badly effected by the electronics. Wish I had
come
>across one of these electronic gizmos before I put the whiskey compass in.
>
>As for redundancy -- I wouldn't even hook such a thing to my electrical
>system if it could be powered by a small battery. That way you just have to
>replace the battery every once in a while and the chances of both your
>electrical system and the compass going out at the same time are awfully
>slim.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Flaps Question
>
>In a message dated 11/4/99 9:02:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com writes:
>
><< These questions are for those with the electric flaps:
>
> 1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the electric
>flap motor push rod from becoming loose? The existing locknut would not
>adequately lock the rod end bearing to the motor push rod. >>
>
>The use of Loctite 271 (red) on both the rod end and the jam nut threads
>works well.
>
>-GV
I'm curious why the jam nut doesn't work properly in this application.
There are lots of jam nuts in the RV in critical places so I am really
curious!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
The Concorde XC battery I just received says it has to be boost charged
every 90 days. What does a boost charge consist of? Can it be done
with a trickle (6 amp) charger?
Chris Browne
-6A Finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | STC'ed trim servos & locking gas caps |
Guys.....I don't have access to a trade-a-plane here at work but the company
name you are seeking is AERO-TRIM run by a ole gentleman named Dr. Norm Smith.
(you may have seen him snoozing at any given aircraft trade show...he usually
has a stool & display table bumped up against some other major vendors' table)
His company has the locking gas cap mods & STC'ed trim systems for just about
every aircraft in existence. I have seen his advertisements ...(small 2 inch by
2 inch) in the back of trade-a-plane for locking gas caps & for the AERO-TRIM
trim systems. Most Mooney folks know of Norm...he is a frugal sort who has many
common sense or cheep alternatives to thingies...actually his thingies are quite
clever . Example-- free Tennis ball with hole poked in it - as pitot cover
instead of the 25.00$ ones in Sporties.......there are thousands of other
thingies Norm has come up with over the years...... I have installed his trim
system & indicator & he has offered a discount to me due to a experimental
installation rather than on a certified aircraft.....I am very satisfied with
the trim & locking gas caps I got from Norm... Lastly Norm knows just about
everybody in the aircraft industry and if you buy from Norm, you automatically
become a member of Norms "discount club"...you can search for the best deal at
any given air-trade show then walk up to Norm (or call him later) and he will
turn you on to some vendor/supplier he has a relationship with and you are
guaranteed to get the best price...I've done this many times and was pleasantly
surprised everytime... I have No relationship with Norm (he probably would not
recognise me)..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
3M produces a charring, expanding product, I think called "Fire Barrier",
for applying at wire runs into vaults and at curtain walls, etc. My call
into the appropriate 3M lab asking for application info was unsuccessful. A
call to a supplier to the building trades found "Fire Barrier" supplied only
in multi-gallon quantities. Maybe someone on list knows more about this
product and its application, even if to eliminate it as useful for RV's.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
8-wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "builder's bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Placement & Hookup |
> 3. I have looked at some installations on the firewall but am not sure
> how to attach the cooler to the firewall. One bulder just used two pieces
> of 90 degree angle stock to bolt to the upper flange on one side and the
> lower flange on the same side leaving the outer side of the cooler to
> 'float'.
I mounted mine on the right side of the firewall like the one above except I
took a 3rd piece of angle and angled it up from the firewall to the front of the
cooler to help support it.
It works well. If anything it is too cool, but I've yet to fly it in 100 degree
Phoenix type weather. A neighbor building a 6 did the same thing as me but put
it a heaterbox type sliding door to vary the airflow through the cooler. That is
a great idea and may be a winter project.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
10% for Matronics this month
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
I fabricated some washers with shoulders or out-riggers or mickey mouse ears as
my wife calls them that I install & fold over the jam nut I wish to secure. To
be 100% effective the shaft the nut & washer rides on needs to be keyed so the
washer won't rotate........we don't have that so I use star washers & locktite
&
my eared washers.....sorta like belts, suspenders & tape I suspose.....
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net on 11/05/99 09:58:14 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Flaps Question
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Flaps Question
>
>In a message dated 11/4/99 9:02:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com writes:
>
><< These questions are for those with the electric flaps:
>
> 1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the electric
>flap motor push rod from becoming loose? The existing locknut would not
>adequately lock the rod end bearing to the motor push rod. >>
>
>The use of Loctite 271 (red) on both the rod end and the jam nut threads
>works well.
>
>-GV
I'm curious why the jam nut doesn't work properly in this application.
There are lots of jam nuts in the RV in critical places so I am really
curious!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
RV list
Flyin Nov 6, 10-4 pm @ TVR just west of Vicksburg MS.
Homebuilt, military, & antique a/c, cars, boats, model a/c, food, etc.
601-638-4239 or 318-574-5841
or call me @ 601-879-9596
Y'all come!
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps Question |
Dennis,
When you tight the jam nut, it put a preload on the engaged threaded section of
the end bearing and the push rod. When you operate the electric flap motor,
the torque on the push rod is higher than the applied torque on the jam nut and
it would allows the jam nut to become loose. Since the rotation of the pushrod
is right hand, same as the rod end bearing, thus allowing it to back out and
disengage from the end bearing.
T.Nguyen
>>> "Dennis Persyk" 11/05/99 08:58AM >>>
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Flaps Question
>
>In a message dated 11/4/99 9:02:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com writes:
>
><< These questions are for those with the electric flaps:
>
> 1) How would one prevent the rod end bearing that attach to the electric
>flap motor push rod from becoming loose? The existing locknut would not
>adequately lock the rod end bearing to the motor push rod. >>
>
>The use of Loctite 271 (red) on both the rod end and the jam nut threads
>works well.
>
>-GV
I'm curious why the jam nut doesn't work properly in this application.
There are lots of jam nuts in the RV in critical places so I am really
curious!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Van's Prop Governor bracket |
I am using Van's prop governor bracket p/n VA-153. I have not been able to
adjust the control cable, the bracket and the governor cover/lever so that
the control cable does not bind on the top of the slot in the bracket when
the lever is at the apex of it's rotation. Has anybody else found this to be
a problem or am I doing something wrong. Thought I would check with you'll
before I attack the bracket with a file.
Thanks
Dale Ensing
6A O-360 with C/S
Cary IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
>
>The Concorde XC battery I just received says it has to be boost charged
>every 90 days. What does a boost charge consist of? Can it be done
>with a trickle (6 amp) charger?
Yes . . .hook it up for 12 hours and then take it completely off.
BTW, unless you're getting a REALLY good deal on some kind of
battery buy, I don't recommend you buy a battery until you're
ready to fly. Use car or tractor battery jury-rigged to your
system . . . perhaps in conjunction with a ground power supply
you plug into wall
see http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
. . . and save your shiny new battery for first flight.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>
>If the electronics affect the wet compass, won't it affect the
>electronic module as well? I assume the electronic module works on
>detecting magnetic lines of flux just as the wet one does. If someone
>on the list has one of these modules, bring it near a magnet and/or
>energized electric circuit and let us know what it does. Thanks for the
>interesting discussion!
Some electronic compass systems allow for remote mounting
of the earth's magnetic field sensor . . . like back in
tailcone or out in wingtip, like the big guys do with
high-dollar slaved gyro flux gates . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denise Boyd" <denise(at)kwgc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin tomorrow |
Wonder how long that would take us in our Musketeer? 4 Hrs? 2 Hrs? I don't
know how far that is - but, by jing golleys, I'm ready! Wish we could go.
Guess we will make the next one. Flying and Food!!! I can live with that!
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 11:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flyin tomorrow
Flyin Nov 6, 10-4 pm @ TVR just west of Vicksburg MS.
Homebuilt, military, & antique a/c, cars, boats, model a/c, food, etc.
601-638-4239 or 318-574-5841
or call me @ 601-879-9596
Y'all come!
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nightingale Michael <NightingaleMichael(at)JDCorp.deere.com> |
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
the 3M product is "Fire Barrier" CP 25WB+ Caulk. it comes in conventional
caulking tube and is applied the same way. it is red oxide in color and
granular in texture; also it has the consistence as regular caulk and about
the same cure rate. call electrical supply houses or the 3M homepage to
locate.
mvn
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Blomgren
Sent: 11/5/99 9:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Firewall insulation
3M produces a charring, expanding product, I think called "Fire
Barrier",
for applying at wire runs into vaults and at curtain walls, etc. My
call
into the appropriate 3M lab asking for application info was
unsuccessful. A
call to a supplier to the building trades found "Fire Barrier" supplied
only
in multi-gallon quantities. Maybe someone on list knows more about this
product and its application, even if to eliminate it as useful for RV's.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
8-wings
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
Trickle is less than 2 amps, even 1 amp is more than plenty. Go get a
motorcycle battery maintainer or an automatic shut off charger with a 2 amp
or less charging rate. If you get the little booklet manual you will see
that the initial charge is less than 2 amps for less than 24 hours if my
memory serves me right.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 9:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Battery Storage
>
>The Concorde XC battery I just received says it has to be boost charged
>every 90 days. What does a boost charge consist of? Can it be done
>with a trickle (6 amp) charger?
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A Finish
>Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bodie, Pete" <Pete.Bodie(at)sterling.com> |
| Subject: | Transporting a RV6A |
Has anybody transported a RV6A, on gear, engine attached, empennage
attached, across several states. I am trying to figure what kind of truck I
would need.
Pete Bodie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Treasure Coast Airpark RV Fly-In Invitation (DNA) |
Please respond off-list to Tom Benton at TMB1564(at)aol.com if you have
questions or would like to come.
Bernie Kerr, 6A on gear, 60WM reserved, SE FLA
<< 4th Annual gatoRVator TCAP Fly-In
Sat. Dec. 4(raindate Sun Dec. 5),1999
It should be a large turn out this year! We have picked up a number of
local flying RVs this year. Last year we had a delicious breakfast
consisting of eggs and sausage, hash brown potato casserole, fresh cut
premium citrus, homemade biscuits, orange juice, and coffee, Expect
the same type breakfast and this year's program is going to be
a double header with Rich and Pat Jankowski doing a presentation on
what makes their Grand Champion SERFI special to look at and to
go fast. The second part will be an update by Tracy Crook on his
progress with the rotary power system.
We will start serving breakfast around 9:00 AM and continue serving
until 10:30.We prefer an RSVP if you plan to eat breakfast with us!
You can call or email us a note. Call Tom Benton at 561-466-3536, or
Email Tom ( TMB1564(at)aol.com ). Even if your plan is soft and you
end up not coming, we just want to know that you are planning on
coming unless conditions change.
Our 4000 East-West grass strip is located at N 27 degrees 14 27
and W 80 degrees 29 19. We are on the Miami sectional if anyone
still reads maps these days.
We will have Tom Hahn on 122.9 to give advice regarding surface
conditions, active runway, and any known traffic. We will park all
planes on the North East corner of the field where the activities are
occurring Please register when you arrive so that we will know who
was here and how to contact you for our next fly-in.
We look forward to having a real good time together. A word of
warning is that please fly within regs when you are in our vicinity
because we have a neighbor that thrives on getting you breaking a reg
on video and turning you in to the FAA.
For the builders who drive in, we are located on highway #609.. If
coming from the South on I-95, exit at highway #714 (Exit 62) and go
west 5 miles. Then it is 5.3 miles N on #609.If coming from the North
on I-95, exit Midway road(Exit 64) and go east about 1 mile to 4-way
stop. Turn right on #709. Go SW for about 7 miles,then about 4 miles
S on #609. Turn W off #609 on Waldo Pepper to the first cul-de-sac
and turn left to the parking area. There are several RVs at various
stages of construction on the field for you to see plus all of the
airplanes that fly in.-------------Bernie Kerr
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Transporting a RV6A |
Paul,
I had my RV-4 on the gear when I moved from Alabama to Portland. What I did
was buy a brand new Hallmark enclosed race car trailer. I found that these
trailers are far cheeper to buy in the South where they are made. When I got
to Portland I sold the trailer for $250 more than it cost me new.
Rob Hickman
N401RH - Flying 11 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Prop Governor bracket |
>I am using Van's prop governor bracket p/n VA-153. I have not been able to
>adjust the control cable, the bracket and the governor cover/lever so that
>the control cable does not bind on the top of the slot in the bracket when
>the lever is at the apex of it's rotation. Has anybody else found this to
be
>a problem or am I doing something wrong. Thought I would check with you'll
>before I attack the bracket with a file.
>Thanks
>Dale Ensing
>6A O-360 with C/S
>Cary IL
A number of local builders have had this same problem. We have all used a
file to open up the slot a little near its midpoint. Also beware of the rod
end binding. I found I had to put some washers between the rod end and the
governor actuator arm to eliminate this.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
>
>Trickle is less than 2 amps, even 1 amp is more than plenty. Go get a
>motorcycle battery maintainer or an automatic shut off charger with a 2 amp
>or less charging rate. If you get the little booklet manual you will see
>that the initial charge is less than 2 amps for less than 24 hours if my
>memory serves me right.
A "trickle" charge at any rate is hazardous to RG batteries.
The self discharge rate on a new RG is less than 0.5% per day.
Recharging on a 90 day cycle means you get it boosted back up
before capacity drops below 50% where the chemistry starts being
more internally destructive. Bring them up every 90 days and
then let them sit.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Prop Governor bracket |
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Prop Governor bracket
>I am using Van's prop governor bracket p/n VA-153. I have not been able to
>adjust the control cable, the bracket and the governor cover/lever so that
>the control cable does not bind on the top of the slot in the bracket when
>the lever is at the apex of it's rotation. Has anybody else found this to
be
>a problem or am I doing something wrong. Thought I would check with you'll
>before I attack the bracket with a file.
>Thanks
>Dale Ensing
>6A O-360 with C/S
>Cary IL
A number of local builders have had this same problem. We have all used a
file to open up the slot a little near its midpoint. Also beware of the rod
end binding. I found I had to put some washers between the rod end and the
governor actuator arm to eliminate this.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Prop Governor bracket |
I too had clearance problems with my bracket. You could file it open, but I
took the bracket over to a friend's with a milling machine and we just
opened up a wider hole.
The other problem I had with the governor bracket was that as the arm swung
through its rotation as you pulled the prop control, the solid cable end
would start to bind on the threaded sleeve because the angle that rod end
was at changed--the governor arm rotates out like a screw as the arm moves.
I used the really small washers that came with the rod-end bearings from my
fuselage kit. I think I stacked three in between the rod-end and the arm,
and one between the bolt head and the rod-end--the bolt head would hit the
body of the rod-end near the end of the arm's travel.
I have never been really happy with the prop control's actuation due to the
sharp bend I had to make through the firewall to the governor. I happened
to be looking at a Mooney a few weeks back and noticed there was no bracket
on the governor...the cable was clamped to the surface of the firewall
pointing directly down at the governor. With this setup, as the engine
vibrates there could be a change in the cable's position, but if it was good
enough for Mooney, is it good enough for an RV? A much simpler way to
attach the cable; anyone do it this way?
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Dow AgroSciences Information Management
EnterpriseWise IT Consulting
317-337-5348
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Prop Governor bracket
>I am using Van's prop governor bracket p/n VA-153. I have not been able to
>adjust the control cable, the bracket and the governor cover/lever so that
>the control cable does not bind on the top of the slot in the bracket when
>the lever is at the apex of it's rotation. Has anybody else found this to
be
>a problem or am I doing something wrong. Thought I would check with you'll
>before I attack the bracket with a file.
>Thanks
>Dale Ensing
>6A O-360 with C/S
>Cary IL
A number of local builders have had this same problem. We have all used a
file to open up the slot a little near its midpoint. Also beware of the rod
end binding. I found I had to put some washers between the rod end and the
governor actuator arm to eliminate this.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
> A "trickle" charge at any rate is hazardous to RG batteries.
> The self discharge rate on a new RG is less than 0.5% per day.
> Recharging on a 90 day cycle means you get it boosted back up
> before capacity drops below 50% where the chemistry starts being
> more internally destructive. Bring them up every 90 days and
> then let them sit.
Correct me if I am wrong, but can't you float charge them at about 13.2 V
without any damage? I know that this is temperature sensitive but that
seem to be about right for room temperature (70-80 degrees F).
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | laser level on sale |
Just bought a "cheap" 18" laser level that I think will be useful throughout
my project. It has 2 vials for horizontal and vertical work and is
constructed of aluminum. I paid $39.99 cdn which is equal to ~$27 US. You
can order online from www.princessauto.com . (similar to harbor freight).
They have regular sales that offer some pretty good deals but some of the
offshore stuff is .......well... offshore stuff if you know what I mean.
With the laser level and some plumb bobs I can see some timesavers and
accuracy improvements in setups and jigging when my wings arrive.
If I get bored I can "light" up some buddys during bench flying sessions
(aka B.S. sessions)
If you see other things there you like you can take advantage of our "cheap"
Canadian dollar and see how many canuck bucks you can get for US at
www.xe.net/ucc
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
RV-8 emp 95% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transporting a RV6A |
I did not go across several states, but I moved my RV-6A on a 29' Uhaul..the
wheel base of the RV-6A will just fit inside. I secured it with some
ratchet straps that hooked on the side bumpers inside the truck..could have
worked fine for moving long distances.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Bodie, Pete <Pete.Bodie(at)sterling.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 7:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Transporting a RV6A
>
>Has anybody transported a RV6A, on gear, engine attached, empennage
>attached, across several states. I am trying to figure what kind of truck I
>would need.
>
>Pete Bodie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RocketRider2(at)aol.com |
Does anyone have an RV4 wing or Fuse kit that they are wanting to get rid of?
This would have to be something that you REALLY want to get rid of. I want to
use it to train younger people how to build metal airplanes. (startem' young
:
) ). If anyone has one that is just collecting dust and wants it to go to
good use, please lemme know. This might be a ridiculous posting, but it is
worth a try. Please reply offline.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: P60-G2 and corrosion inhibiting primers |
If you want inherent corrosion protection in a 2 part epoxy primer, then
you need to use one that is MIL-P-23377 compliant. These are
Corrosion Inhibiting Epoxy Polyimide primers. Examples include US
Paint 30-Y-94, Sterling Y-1201, and Sherwin Williams Seaguard
N13Y100. These primers are used extensively in the Marine and
Aerospace industries.
The other common category of primers is Epoxy "Wash" primers.
These afford marginal corrosion protection. They are intended to be top
coated. Examples include Sherwin Williams P60-G2, and Dupont
Veriprime. These primers are popular and often recommended by
industrial paint centers becasue they are somewhat cheaper, readily
available, and typically require only mechanical surface preparation, as
opposed to an acid etch and Alodine conversion coating prior to priming.
These primers are often referred to as "self etching". The disadvantage
with this primer system is filliform corrosion can and does sometimes
get started under the primer. This spreads and causes the top coat to
pop. Cessna had horrible problems with this during the late '70s. The
new wash primers are better.
But if you seek corrosion protection, a MIL-P-23377 primer is the far
better way to go.
Regards,
Bob Newman
> Funny thing is... If you read the tech info and data sheet on just about
> any of the primers that RV builders use... they say the exact same
> thing...
> No corrosion protection unless top coated.
> -
> If you don't want it for corrosion protection, then why
> > prime
> > the enclosed parts that will not be painted (topcoated)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Placement & Hookup |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
I am using a Harrison cooler from
> a
> Pawnee that has the inlet and exit at one end. It measures the same
> as the
> one in Vans catalog. I would like to mount it to the left rear
> baffle.
>
> 1. What is the minimum clearance neccessary between the cowling
> and the
> cooler and the engine mount?
-
That depends on what part of the cowl or engine mount you are referring
to.
The farther away from the engine mounting bolts and rubber mounts you
are, the more relative motion that is possible.
I have installed coolers on the baffle aft of the #4 cyl with clearance
no more than 1/4 " to the motor mount with no contact problems.
Up near the front of the engine this small of a clearance is probably not
possible.
-
>
> 2. Does it matter if I have the inlet and exit holes at the
> bottom?
-
Not usually a good thing to do with any cooler. The inflow oil doesn't
fill the cooler entirely before it starts flowing out the other port.
This leaves a big air bubble in the cooler, wasting a lot of its usable
fin area.
In fact it is a good idea with any cooler installation to orientate it so
that it has to fill all the way with oil before it starts sending oil
out the outlet port. Example... if using a common cooler like the
harrison, stewert warner, positech, etc. do not mount them with the port
holes down. If you do mount them vertical (such as is typically done on
the rear baffle in RV's) route the oil inlet hose to the bottom port so
that the cooler then has to fill entirely with oil before oil flows out
of the outlet port at the top.
-
> looks as though the upper/outer connection would come real close to
> touching
> the upper cowl if I mount it with the holes up.
>
> 3. I have looked at some installations on the firewall but am
> not sure
> how to attach the cooler to the firewall. One bulder just used two
> pieces
> of 90 degree angle stock to bolt to the upper flange on one side and
> the
> lower flange on the same side leaving the outer side of the cooler
> to
> 'float'.
-
This is an acceptable way to mount most coolers.
FYI... I have mentioned here on the list before... from my experience a
cooler mounted on the firewall with a scat hose routing air to it, is the
least efficient installation. If you do not live in a hot environment it
probably is not an issue. If you do, mounting on the rear baffle is
probably a better choice.
-
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Air inlet / IO360 |
Scott McDaniels,
Thanks for the offer to help Scott. I am building an 8 ( #80775) and
have the cowling on. My airflow performance injector has only about a
1/2" forward clearance from the cowl at its bottom lip and 3" at the
top. It sticks out 7" from the sump. IO-360 A1B6 forward facing
injector. I haven't cut the flange off of the Vans supplied S duct in
case I need to return it. The airflow manual shows a tapered air filter
stuck straight on the intake with a chin scoop on the cowl. I was
thinking that may be what I will need. It seems that arrangement would
also get more ram rise than the baffle mounted intake.
Ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Painting Control Surfaces |
For those of you who have painted your own airplane how did you support
the control surfaces while painting. Mine are not attached to the
airplane and I have not been able to devise an elegant method to support
them.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A near-mid air... |
Some simple ideas are important to remember. Like, always make sure
*everything* in the airplane is secured. I don't know about everyone else,
but I usually have a couple of pens, cassette tapes (I know, low tech)
sunglasses, etc laying around the cockpit. If I'm solo, I usually have a
flight bag on the right seat with charts, camera, AOPA book, etc.
I've never been in turbulence bad enough to more than float things a little
bit. However, a couple of weeks ago I was flying along 1500' above a valley
and I looked down just long enough to grab a suitable tape to pop into the
stereo and when I looked up there was an eagle completely filling my
windscreen. Now, I don't know where he came from, or how he managed to be
flying right at my canopy at close to 200mph, but all I could do was push
forward on the stick. Hard. Like -1.5g's worth. Mr. Eagle was completely
unimpressed by the imminent catastrophe and didn't bother to do his part of
the evasion equation. I'm positive that he brushed the top of the canopy.
Pens and flight bags (and AOPA encyclopedias) weigh an awful lot when they
are accelerated at 1.5x their normal weight into the canopy. And they scare
the hell out of you when they land in your lap during the 3g recovery. I
can't believe that there was no damage done to the canopy (interior OR
exterior).
I've always had a secure baggage cover (and it restrained everything nicely,
albeit a little scrambled) but I've never worried about unsecured "small
stuff". I do now.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96
ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/
> Reminds me of an Edwards Video I saw several years ago. It showed a video
> from the jet with student and instructor from Edwards AFB. The camera was
> in the jet looking forward. In a heartbeat or two it showed a near headon
> with a Cessna. The student was under the hood, and the instructor said
> something like "Did you see something"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Prop Governor bracket |
As I recall I too had to file some material away in the top slot.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6 203 hrs/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Garmin GPS COM 190 |
Has anybody had hands-on experience with the Garmin GPS COM
190? I was getting a quote for a package of avionics and one
dealer "strongly advised" against it, because of the number of
people who had been dissatisfied.
I would be most interested in real life, first hand experience
opinions of this unit.
Thanks.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney Australia
Judith Bennett
Friends of Quarantine Station Inc
http://www.manlyquarantine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digital Compass... |
>The digital compass is magnetic. Has to be to get the directional
headings.
>However instead of having a direct reading compass card it has an
>electronically driven display.
Yes. But from reading the literature on several of these devices (I admit I
don't know for sure), electronic compasses can be compensated for local
interference to a greater and finer degree than can the wet compass with its
compensating magnets.
But why worry about compensating in the first place? Just stick the "guts"
out in the wing or somewhere away from the magnetic parts of the plane, and
you have a nice remote compass for a whole lot less money (and a whole lot
less weight) than a traditional remote compass. In fact I have seen one such
device (a Marine unit) that's set up this way. (Bob Haan, care to comment?)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Control Surfaces |
> For those of you who have painted your own airplane how did you support
> the control surfaces while painting. Mine are not attached to the airplane
> and I have not been able to devise an elegant method to support them.
I have pictures on my web site, http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
Like Stewart, I hung the control surfaces from their hinge points, from
hooks in the ceiling. For the wings I fastened a large piece of particle
board to the wing tip, and used that to hold the wing off the table.
The main spar was on another table. This allowed me to shoot the
wing flat, and to rotate the wing easily so I could shoot down on both
the upper and lower wing surface.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Control Surfaces |
<< For those of you who have painted your own airplane how did you support
the control surfaces while painting. Mine are not attached to the
airplane and I have not been able to devise an elegant method to support
them. >>
Gary,
As has already been stated, hanging them from the hinge points works well. I
built a wooden A-frame with eyebolts on about 18" centers across the top, and
hung the surfaces from this using surplus clothes hangars. This does put the
surfaces vertical, but you can use more clothes hangars (or whatever) and
attach to the tooling holes towards the rear of the surfaces to bring them
closer to level. On the ailerons, I ran a long threaded rod through the
counterweight rod, and suspended them using the threaded rod and more clothes
hangar.
More than you asked, but I just painted my wings yesterday (and they look
good). I used the main spar to take the weight on the inboard end, and on
the outboard end, I ran a piece of 4" PCV sewer pipe through the lightening
hole behind the main spar and a piece of 2" PVC through the rearmost
lightening hole, then sat the entire mess on sawhorses. I cut a 2" hole (to
fit the small pipe) towards on end of a 2.5' x 6" piece of 3/4" plywood, and
ran that over the small PVC pipe. Clamping this to the sawhorse gave me a
way to control the tilt of the wing. I sprayed most of the wings with them
turned on about a 45 degree angle. This let me spray the entire surface
without changing sides of the wing and without fear (OK, without a HUGE
fear) of bumping into a wet surface while reaching across.
On each surface, I sprayed the bottom, then rotated the surface, sprayed the
top, back and forth 2 times, finishing with a coat on the top. Then, I
rotated the wing so the bottom faced up so any stray dust, bugs, or bat guano
would hit the bottom of the wing.
BTW, the pipes make a good way of carrying a wing which is still too wet to
touch with your hands.
Good luck,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exploding mice!!!! Wow, I gotta see that! |
>POISON IS POISON.
>It should not be around pets and kids. And it is actually,
> extremely corrosive to airplane skins!
Note to self: stop smearing mouse poison on aircraft skins
>We are entering the new millenium.
> I think we can come up with some better ways to eliminate pests than 12
> guage shotguns and poisons.
A sledge hammer is "better" in terms of entertainment, but it's
manpower intensive and takes time away from flying.
> And to the fellow who stated that mice are XX///zzzRRR!!! carriers of
> disease, many books suggest in the hereafter...we must all learn to live
> peacefully with all creatures. You may just come back someday as a
> rodent.
And "many books suggest" I should send my money to various and
assorted nutcase televangelists, gurus, and other purveyors of
nonsense, but I don't believe them, either.
; )
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)iname.com
N47TD RV-6A, painting
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Rear seat throttle |
A word of caution to RV-8 builders intending to install the rear seat
throttle. Early RV-8 kits had predetermined holes for the manual trim cable.
If these holes are located as per the drawing, you will find that they
conflict with the location of the holes for the throttle pushrod that
connects to the rear seat throttle. A call to Ken Kreugar at Van's confirmed
that there was a revision to the location of the trim cable holes for this
reason, but no caution is noted on the drawing before beginning installation
of the rear seat throttle. So, one can easily start installation of the rear
seat throttle and find this problem out halfway into the process.
The holes in the 804 bulkhead would be too large for my liking, so the
solution I discussed with Ken Kreugar was to fabricate an .040 doubler on the
rear 804C bulkhead. Actually, the holes for the trim cable were located from
the wing plans which I got so long ago. So, if you plan on a rear set
throttle, I suggest that you review the location of these holes before
drilling them. The revised location for the trim cable hole through the 804C
bulkheads is now about 1 inch or so below the front throttle quadrant.
This is the type of information that should be up on Van's website.
Hope this helps someone.
Jon Ross 80094 - Making a doubler today...
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| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A near-mid air... |
In a message dated 11/6/99 2:01:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ebundy(at)access1.net writes:
<< I looked up there was an eagle completely filling my
windscreen. Now, I don't know where he came from, or how he managed to be
flying right at my canopy at close to 200mph, but all I could do was push
forward on the stick. >>
Just a few observations to help those that fly in Big Bird states. Where I
fly there are LOTS of buzzards everywhere. 9 times outa 10, a bird, if on a
head on collision coarse with a plane, will dive down to avoid the plane. So
pushing the stick forward is almost a sure bet that you will collide. Pulling
the stick back would be the better alternative. I have missed at least 50
messy situations because I pulled back. Had I done the opposite, it was a
sure bet of stirred bird. Just an observation.
Scott
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| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: laser level on sale |
Sorry I did not include the part number in the original post. Part number is
2940137
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
RV-8 emp 95% done
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: laser level on sale
>
>
> Rob,
> What is the part number of the laser level you mentioned?
>
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 wings
> Boca Raton, Fl. but formerly from Buffalo (almost Ontario) N.Y.
>
> >
> >
> > Just bought a "cheap" 18" laser level that I think will be useful
throughout
> > my project. It has 2 vials for horizontal and vertical work and is
> > constructed of aluminum. I paid $39.99 cdn which is equal to ~$27 US.
You
> > can order online from www.princessauto.com . (similar to harbor
freight).
> > They have regular sales that offer some pretty good deals but some of
the
> > offshore stuff is .......well... offshore stuff if you know what I mean.
> > With the laser level and some plumb bobs I can see some timesavers and
> > accuracy improvements in setups and jigging when my wings arrive.
> > If I get bored I can "light" up some buddys during bench flying sessions
> > (aka B.S. sessions)
> >
> > If you see other things there you like you can take advantage of our
"cheap"
> > Canadian dollar and see how many canuck bucks you can get for US at
> > www.xe.net/ucc
> >
> > Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
> > RV-8 emp 95% done
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: laser level on sale |
Last item on page 10
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Baxter <robbax(at)sympatico.ca>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: laser level on sale
>
>Sorry I did not include the part number in the original post. Part number
is
>2940137
>
>Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
>RV-8 emp 95% done
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
>To:
October 29, 1999 - November 07, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hf