RV-Archive.digest.vol-hg
November 07, 1999 - November 11, 1999
>Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 8:03 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: laser level on sale
>
>
>>
>>
>> Rob,
>> What is the part number of the laser level you mentioned?
>>
>> Charlie Kuss
>> RV-8 wings
>> Boca Raton, Fl. but formerly from Buffalo (almost Ontario) N.Y.
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Just bought a "cheap" 18" laser level that I think will be useful
>throughout
>> > my project. It has 2 vials for horizontal and vertical work and is
>> > constructed of aluminum. I paid $39.99 cdn which is equal to ~$27 US.
>You
>> > can order online from www.princessauto.com . (similar to harbor
>freight).
>> > They have regular sales that offer some pretty good deals but some of
>the
>> > offshore stuff is .......well... offshore stuff if you know what I
mean.
>> > With the laser level and some plumb bobs I can see some timesavers and
>> > accuracy improvements in setups and jigging when my wings arrive.
>> > If I get bored I can "light" up some buddys during bench flying
sessions
>> > (aka B.S. sessions)
>> >
>> > If you see other things there you like you can take advantage of our
>"cheap"
>> > Canadian dollar and see how many canuck bucks you can get for US at
>> > www.xe.net/ucc
>> >
>> > Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
>> > RV-8 emp 95% done
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A near-mid air... |
Correct you are, and I meant to mention that in my post. I've had instances
(there are LOTS of birds of prey in the local mountains) in the past where
I've seen birds at a healthy distance and flown close enough to them to get
a good look with getting *too* good of a look. If they even care enough to
move (which usually they don't) they almost always go down - apparently they
know the first rule of emergencies: Don't stall the airplane.
Unfortunately, at the speed we were closing, and the fact that he was above
the center line of the airplane, I'm positive I would have nailed him if I
had gone up. Not that I had time to think about it though, I just reacted.
I think my mind processed that he was high on me and pushed forward. And as
close as we were, if he had seen me and decided to go down I would have
already been past him.
So, if you have a choice pull up. If you don't have a choice, miss him.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID - RV6-A First flight 11/20/96
ebundy@access1.net http://home.cwix.com/~ebundy@cwix.com/
> Just a few observations to help those that fly in Big Bird states. Where I
> fly there are LOTS of buzzards everywhere. 9 times outa 10, a bird, if on
a
> head on collision coarse with a plane, will dive down to avoid the plane.
So
> pushing the stick forward is almost a sure bet that you will collide.
Pulling
> the stick back would be the better alternative. I have missed at least 50
> messy situations because I pulled back. Had I done the opposite, it was a
> sure bet of stirred bird. Just an observation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Vetterman exhaust |
Hi all,
Do the bracket clamps go on the exhaust pipes before or after the bend??
Do I cut off nearly all of the flattened end tubes?
The stainless is beautiful but the instructions require too much "creativity".
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Consumption |
I had run just over 1,000-gallons of 100LL through my RV-6A with its O-320,
160HP engine and had averaged 6.28GPH. Mostly very short flights, lots of
touch and goes, but always at around 8 to 12 thousand because of Rocky
Mountains. I seldom pull 65% power, and more often its like 55% or so.
I installed a Light Speed electronic ignition in place of the right mag, and
also began using AV-Blend at the same time.
Since that use began I have run another several hundred gallons of fuel
through the plane, and since then have averaged 5.45GPH, a 12% reduction!
BUT, unless I live to be 150-years old the savings cannot be justified in
purely economic terms, but the benefits of better engine performance, and
(hopefully) better lubrication of the valve system may be worth the cost of
the ignition system and the rather high cost of AV-Blend (about $20 per oil
change.)
Incidentally, the old right mag (170-hours on it since it was overhauled) is
just sitting in the hangar...you can have it for core value (including
ignition harness) if you pay shipping.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel primer components |
I am installing an electric primer solenoid valve and wondering what is
usually used for fittings and lines on my O360A. Seems like it would be
the usual blue AN aluminum fittings and aluminum line just as for the main
fuel system but I heard things about copper.
What is usual??
(I know primer system is not essential in California....)
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption |
Was this increase in fuel economy due to the ignition and avblend or just
that you had 160-190 hours on the engine and now that it is broke in the
fuel burn dropped????
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 9:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Consumption
>
> I had run just over 1,000-gallons of 100LL through my RV-6A with its
O-320,
> 160HP engine and had averaged 6.28GPH. Mostly very short flights, lots of
> touch and goes, but always at around 8 to 12 thousand because of Rocky
> Mountains. I seldom pull 65% power, and more often its like 55% or so.
>
> I installed a Light Speed electronic ignition in place of the right mag,
and
> also began using AV-Blend at the same time.
>
> Since that use began I have run another several hundred gallons of fuel
> through the plane, and since then have averaged 5.45GPH, a 12% reduction!
>
> BUT, unless I live to be 150-years old the savings cannot be justified in
> purely economic terms, but the benefits of better engine performance, and
> (hopefully) better lubrication of the valve system may be worth the cost
of
> the ignition system and the rather high cost of AV-Blend (about $20 per
oil
> change.)
>
> Incidentally, the old right mag (170-hours on it since it was overhauled)
is
> just sitting in the hangar...you can have it for core value (including
> ignition harness) if you pay shipping.
>
> RV-6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Consumption |
The question is hard to answer; that is, did fuel consumption drop due to
break in or the Av Blend/electronic ignition...I believe it's due to
either/both the ignition/AvBlend....the reason I think this is that the drop
in fuel use from fill up to fill up immediately showed up when the Light
Speed and AvBlend was used....it was an immediate change....but other
inquiring minds may have other thoughts.
Rv-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Vetterman exhaust |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Do the bracket clamps go on the exhaust pipes before or after the bend??
On a 6A yes the brackets go before the bend. At least this is where I put mine.
This puts the cross piece in front of the nose gear mount. Otherwise I put it
together just like the instructions
>
>
> Do I cut off nearly all of the flattened end tubes?
Don't know what you mean by flattened end tubes. They should be round all the way
to the end. Larry says don't cut the tubes until you fly. The exhaust will make
a
ring around the outside of the tube and and along this ring is where it wants to
be trimmed.
>
>
> The stainless is beautiful but the instructions require too much "creativity".
I really thought the installation was rather simple. The hard part was getting
the
cross piece to clear the 6A's nose gear and the outlet on Robbins heat muff.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
>
>
>> A "trickle" charge at any rate is hazardous to RG batteries.
>> The self discharge rate on a new RG is less than 0.5% per day.
>> Recharging on a 90 day cycle means you get it boosted back up
>> before capacity drops below 50% where the chemistry starts being
>> more internally destructive. Bring them up every 90 days and
>> then let them sit.
>
>Correct me if I am wrong, but can't you float charge them at about 13.2 V
>without any damage? I know that this is temperature sensitive but that
>seem to be about right for room temperature (70-80 degrees F).
Yes . . but this is not a voltage level that will "charge" them.
Trickle chargers tend to run in a constant current mode at some
level. People have put solar cells on their hangars and hooked
them to the battery via diode and dismayed to find battery wasted
after a hundred days or so of 100-500 mA constant "trickle" while
sun is up.
A voltage regulated battery maintainer clamps the charge
level to some value between open circuit voltage (about
12.5) and nominal top-off for the present temperature (about
13.8 at room temp). Unless you're SURE the charger you choose
is sophisticated enough to properly maintain a battery,
then an every 90 day charge is the prudent way to go. The
self discharge rate of RG's is so low that periodic maintenance
is practical.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
Subject: RV-List: Fuel primer components
Hal - Look under most Piper cowls and you will see 1/8"copper primer lines.
I used weatherhead fittings to join it all together. My local aircraft
mechanic says that the 'wedding band' crimp variety found at most automotive
supply stores is OK to use and much easier than soldering on the aircraft
type ends. Be sure to support the tubing from vibration with Adell clamps
and you will have no trouble with work hardening in the copper line. When
you tee out from the primer line to go to the priming solinoid, all that is
neccessary is a two inch loop in the line to take care of vibration between
the engine and fuselage.
>I am installing an electric primer solenoid valve and wondering what is
>usually used for fittings and lines on my O360A. Seems like it would be
>the usual blue AN aluminum fittings and aluminum line just as for the main
>fuel system but I heard things about copper.
>
>What is usual??
>
>Hal Kempthorne - SJC
>RV6a at SCK - Tedious details
>Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
The original person wanted to use a 6 amp charger which is way too much for
aircraft batteries left on for several hours.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Battery Storage
>
>>
>>
>>> A "trickle" charge at any rate is hazardous to RG batteries.
>>> The self discharge rate on a new RG is less than 0.5% per day.
>>> Recharging on a 90 day cycle means you get it boosted back up
>>> before capacity drops below 50% where the chemistry starts being
>>> more internally destructive. Bring them up every 90 days and
>>> then let them sit.
>>
>>Correct me if I am wrong, but can't you float charge them at about 13.2 V
>>without any damage? I know that this is temperature sensitive but that
>>seem to be about right for room temperature (70-80 degrees F).
>
> Yes . . but this is not a voltage level that will "charge" them.
> Trickle chargers tend to run in a constant current mode at some
> level. People have put solar cells on their hangars and hooked
> them to the battery via diode and dismayed to find battery wasted
> after a hundred days or so of 100-500 mA constant "trickle" while
> sun is up.
>
> A voltage regulated battery maintainer clamps the charge
> level to some value between open circuit voltage (about
> 12.5) and nominal top-off for the present temperature (about
> 13.8 at room temp). Unless you're SURE the charger you choose
> is sophisticated enough to properly maintain a battery,
> then an every 90 day charge is the prudent way to go. The
> self discharge rate of RG's is so low that periodic maintenance
> is practical.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Vetterman exhaust |
-Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting Vetterman exhaust
Hal - Don't cut the flattened end of the support tube. You need to drill a
hole there to attach the tube to the Adell clamp that goes around the engine
mount tube. The part you will cut off is a bit of the round end. You will
need to decide where the exhaust pipes will be placed and then cut the
support tubes so they have only 3/16" distance between them. The rubber hose
is used to cushion the vibration between the pipe and the mount and is
clamped over the ends of the support tubes that you trimmed to length.
>Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>> Do I cut off nearly all of the flattened end tubes?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rear seat throttle |
GUYS JUST A SUGGESTION: THIS IS WHAT I AM GOING TO DO
AND MAYBE YOU ALL CAN SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT
DURING TRAINING AND ALL THROUGH YOUR LIFE AS A PILOT
EXCEPT YOU JET JOCKEYS AND AEROBATIC GUYS WE FLY WITH
THE THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF US. MY SUGGESTION IS
TO MOUNT YOUR THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE A/C.
OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO MOD THE BOX FITING TO MAKE
THIS AN ACCEPTABLE PROPOSITION BUT IT IS DEFINATELY
DOABLE AND YOUR FLYING WILL BE KINDA LIKE NORMAL AS
YOU DONT HAVE TO RELEARN WHERE THE THROTTLE IS AND A
SIDE BENEFIT IS WHEN YOU HAVE PEOPLE LOOKING AT THE
A/C THEY WILL NOTICE SOMETHING DIFFERENT BUT MAY NOT
PINPOINT IT AND IT LOOKS COOL WICH IS WHAT WE ARE ALL
AFTER ISNT IT? JUST A SUGGESTION
GLENN WILLIAMS
8A WINGS
A&P MECHANIC
--- JRoss10612(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> A word of caution to RV-8 builders intending to
> install the rear seat
> throttle. Early RV-8 kits had predetermined holes
> for the manual trim cable.
> If these holes are located as per the drawing, you
> will find that they
> conflict with the location of the holes for the
> throttle pushrod that
> connects to the rear seat throttle. A call to Ken
> Kreugar at Van's confirmed
> that there was a revision to the location of the
> trim cable holes for this
> reason, but no caution is noted on the drawing
> before beginning installation
> of the rear seat throttle. So, one can easily start
> installation of the rear
> seat throttle and find this problem out halfway into
> the process.
>
> The holes in the 804 bulkhead would be too large for
> my liking, so the
> solution I discussed with Ken Kreugar was to
> fabricate an .040 doubler on the
> rear 804C bulkhead. Actually, the holes for the trim
> cable were located from
> the wing plans which I got so long ago. So, if you
> plan on a rear set
> throttle, I suggest that you review the location of
> these holes before
> drilling them. The revised location for the trim
> cable hole through the 804C
> bulkheads is now about 1 inch or so below the front
> throttle quadrant.
>
> This is the type of information that should be up on
> Van's website.
>
> Hope this helps someone.
>
> Jon Ross 80094 - Making a doubler today...
>
>
>
>
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> RV-List:
> Archive Search Engine:
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Archive Browsing:
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rear seat throttle |
Most people are training with a control wheel, so maybe you should
put in on one of those too :-)
Speaking seriously - I've flown aircraft with control sticks, and the
throttle on the right, and others with it on the left. And I've
flown control wheel aircraft from either seat (which puts the
throttle in either hand). You get used to these changes very
quickly. I wouldn't spend one hour extra work to move the throttle
to the other side.
Just my opinion.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
>
>GUYS JUST A SUGGESTION: THIS IS WHAT I AM GOING TO DO
>AND MAYBE YOU ALL CAN SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT
>DURING TRAINING AND ALL THROUGH YOUR LIFE AS A PILOT
>EXCEPT YOU JET JOCKEYS AND AEROBATIC GUYS WE FLY WITH
>THE THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF US. MY SUGGESTION IS
>TO MOUNT YOUR THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE A/C.
>OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO MOD THE BOX FITING TO MAKE
>THIS AN ACCEPTABLE PROPOSITION BUT IT IS DEFINATELY
>DOABLE AND YOUR FLYING WILL BE KINDA LIKE NORMAL AS
>YOU DONT HAVE TO RELEARN WHERE THE THROTTLE IS AND A
>SIDE BENEFIT IS WHEN YOU HAVE PEOPLE LOOKING AT THE
>A/C THEY WILL NOTICE SOMETHING DIFFERENT BUT MAY NOT
>PINPOINT IT AND IT LOOKS COOL WICH IS WHAT WE ARE ALL
>AFTER ISNT IT? JUST A SUGGESTION
>GLENN WILLIAMS
>8A WINGS
>A&P MECHANIC
>
>--- JRoss10612(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> A word of caution to RV-8 builders intending to
>> install the rear seat
>> throttle. Early RV-8 kits had predetermined holes
>> for the manual trim cable.
>> If these holes are located as per the drawing, you
>> will find that they
>> conflict with the location of the holes for the
>> throttle pushrod that
>> connects to the rear seat throttle. A call to Ken
>> Kreugar at Van's confirmed
>> that there was a revision to the location of the
>> trim cable holes for this
>> reason, but no caution is noted on the drawing
>> before beginning installation
>> of the rear seat throttle. So, one can easily start
>> installation of the rear
>> seat throttle and find this problem out halfway into
>> the process.
>>
>> The holes in the 804 bulkhead would be too large for
>> my liking, so the
>> solution I discussed with Ken Kreugar was to
>> fabricate an .040 doubler on the
>> rear 804C bulkhead. Actually, the holes for the trim
>> cable were located from
>> the wing plans which I got so long ago. So, if you
>> plan on a rear set
>> throttle, I suggest that you review the location of
>> these holes before
>> drilling them. The revised location for the trim
>> cable hole through the 804C
>> bulkheads is now about 1 inch or so below the front
>> throttle quadrant.
>>
>> This is the type of information that should be up on
>> Van's website.
>>
>> Hope this helps someone.
>>
>> Jon Ross 80094 - Making a doubler today...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
>> List members.
>>
>>
>> Matronics:
>> http://www.matronics.com
>> RV-List:
>> Archive Search Engine:
>> http://www.matronics.com/search
>> Archive Browsing:
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/other
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>====
>
>
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Vetterman exhaust |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Do the bracket clamps go on the exhaust pipes before or after the bend??
>
> Do I cut off nearly all of the flattened end tubes?
Hal, on my previous post I was not sure what you meant about flattened tubes.
After going back down in the shop and looking at mine I now know what your
question is. No, don't cut the flat end, the round end may need trimming if it
runs into the other tube in the rubber hose supplied. The tubes should almost
(well 1/4 - 3/8") touch inside of the rubber hose. The hose connects the mount
tubes together and allows the exhaust to move with the engine.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Lube and Access Plates |
Listers,
When it came time to mount my fuel tank access plates and senders I used
fuel lube on the cork and rubber gaskets respectively. I would have used
pro-seal in lieu of gaskets but being an unworthy quickbuilder type I had
none on hand and it seemed unreasonable to spend that much money for one
small use.
I was pretty smug that the fuel lube would work fine. It's meant for use in
fuel, right? It's real waxxy and you can't even wipe it off, right? I just
could not see any way that that waxxy gooey stuff could let any fuel by.
Recently, at about 100 hours of aircraft time, I developed a BAD leak in the
left tank. I pulled it today and discovered the leak was entirely in the
access plates. When I pulled them, I discovered that everywhere there had
been fuel lube, except for some exterior spots, there was now a hard, white,
crumbly material. It was a lot like a dirt clod in consistency. I have
never heard of this before, but that is what I have, with 100% 100LL fuel
use.
I bit the bullet and bought some pro-seal and that is what I used to
reinstall the plates, with no gaskets this time. Now I am waiting for the
left tank to go, and having a lot of doubts about all the other places I
used fuel lube.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble" Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Treasure Coast Airpark RV Fly-In Invitation (DNA) |
Kerrjb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Please respond off-list to Tom Benton at TMB1564(at)aol.com if you have
> questions or would like to come.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A on gear, 60WM reserved, SE FLA
>
> << 4th Annual gatoRVator TCAP Fly-In
> Sat. Dec. 4(raindate Sun Dec. 5),1999
>
Hi Bernie,
I want to thank you for the invitation. As much as we would like to
come, our house restoration project is keeping me tied pretty close to
home. Please keep us on your mailing list for next year.
We are hoping to have a little 'gathering' here in the spring about a
month before SNF; I'll send an invite when we firm up the date.
Hopefully by then we will no longer be 'trailer trash' & will have some
spare bedrooms for overnighters.
Charlie
RV-4
Slobovia Outernational (MS71)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace to
the rudder horn. For the life of me, I can't figure out a way to buck the
rivets through the lightening hole. I've showed it to several friends, but
found no good suggestions. If there's a suitable bucking bar out there that
does the trick, I'd like to beg, borrow, steal, or buy one. Cherrymax?
Thanks.
Troy Black
-8 rudder, making yawing noises
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rear seat throttle |
>
>
>GUYS JUST A SUGGESTION: THIS IS WHAT I AM GOING TO DO
>AND MAYBE YOU ALL CAN SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT
>DURING TRAINING AND ALL THROUGH YOUR LIFE AS A PILOT
>EXCEPT YOU JET JOCKEYS AND AEROBATIC GUYS WE FLY WITH
>THE THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF US. MY SUGGESTION IS
>TO MOUNT YOUR THROTTLE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE A/C.
>OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO MOD THE BOX FITING TO MAKE
>THIS AN ACCEPTABLE PROPOSITION BUT IT IS DEFINATELY
>DOABLE AND YOUR FLYING WILL BE KINDA LIKE NORMAL AS
>YOU DONT HAVE TO RELEARN WHERE THE THROTTLE IS AND A
>SIDE BENEFIT IS WHEN YOU HAVE PEOPLE LOOKING AT THE
>A/C THEY WILL NOTICE SOMETHING DIFFERENT BUT MAY NOT
>PINPOINT IT AND IT LOOKS COOL WICH IS WHAT WE ARE ALL
>AFTER ISNT IT? JUST A SUGGESTION
>GLENN WILLIAMS
>8A WINGS
>A&P MECHANIC
Okay, you don't have to shout. (The caps are viewed as shouting in the
"cyber etiquette manual"). After you've spent many months on your plane,
you'll most likely not want to re-engineer something that already works!
The stock throttle quadrant works fine as is, and flying with either hand is
not a problem for most folks.
By all means, put it on the right if you really want to. That's probably a
reason why you started building an experimental...freedom of choice!
Have fun,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
rigging controls....like those *&%
##@) flap pushrods!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Troy,
I was able to squeeze mine using a Tatco squeezer with a 4" yoke which I borrowed
from a friend. I used the thinnest flat set on the top of the yoke and the
thickest one I have on the ram. It just barely fits in there.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
>
>
> Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace to
> the rudder horn. For the life of me, I can't figure out a way to buck the
> rivets through the lightening hole. I've showed it to several friends, but
> found no good suggestions. If there's a suitable bucking bar out there that
> does the trick, I'd like to beg, borrow, steal, or buy one. Cherrymax?
> Thanks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS COM 190 |
Our Director of Maintenance at my company bought a Garmin GPS Com 190 and has
had numerous problems with the power connector falling off just when he
needed it the most. Otherwise it has been a good unit and very useful. This
is not a very durable radio if you plan on banging it around in a cockpit.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S
Finishing, wiring and rigging.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Hi Troy:
I am assuming that the rudder horn brace that you speak of is similar to
that of the 6A. What I found that worked like a charm is the heavy end of a
medium sized machine square that I got in a set of three sizes from Harbor
Freight. It slides in over the rivet heads with enough clearance and is
heavy enough to form a nice shop head. Worked great. Give me a holler off
list if you need a part number from a Harbor Freight catalog....I don't have
one at the moment. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Closing first wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 6:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>
>
>Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace
to
>the rudder horn. For the life of me, I can't figure out a way to buck the
>rivets through the lightening hole. I've showed it to several friends, but
>found no good suggestions. If there's a suitable bucking bar out there
that
>does the trick, I'd like to beg, borrow, steal, or buy one. Cherrymax?
>Thanks.
>
>Troy Black
>-8 rudder, making yawing noises
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
After trying everything in my tool box, I used a ball-peen hammer to buck
with. The head was small enough to fit through the lightning hole and the
handle was used to control it. I was pleased with the results.
Randy Hooper
Starting Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
If you cut an inch or so from the passenger stick it will fit horizontally
between the bulkhead at the main spar and the one forward (it's been too
long to remember those part numbers). It's easy to get to and makes
passenger entry so much easier when not installed. I mounted my passenger
PTT switch on the armrest since it gets used so much less than the pilot's.
kevin (to write soon of my horrors of getting paint!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | Transporting a RV6A |
From: "Bodie, Pete" <Pete.Bodie(at)sterling.com>
Subject: RV-List: Transporting a RV6A
Has anybody transported a RV6A, on gear, engine attached, empennage
attached, across several states. I am trying to figure what kind of truck I
would need.
Pete Bodie
With gear attached (to the wing, 22'), and a 9 1/2' wide empennage you
should call the people that transport Miss Budweiser (up on edge), or maybe
a Chevy C-5A. ( I know, you don't need smart-ass answers!) do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption |
John,
I'll take you up on the mag order if no one else has. Let me know the cost
of shipping
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing KIt
----- Original Message -----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 10:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Consumption
>
> I had run just over 1,000-gallons of 100LL through my RV-6A with its
O-320,
> 160HP engine and had averaged 6.28GPH. Mostly very short flights, lots of
> touch and goes, but always at around 8 to 12 thousand because of Rocky
> Mountains. I seldom pull 65% power, and more often its like 55% or so.
>
> I installed a Light Speed electronic ignition in place of the right mag,
and
> also began using AV-Blend at the same time.
>
> Since that use began I have run another several hundred gallons of fuel
> through the plane, and since then have averaged 5.45GPH, a 12% reduction!
>
> BUT, unless I live to be 150-years old the savings cannot be justified in
> purely economic terms, but the benefits of better engine performance, and
> (hopefully) better lubrication of the valve system may be worth the cost
of
> the ignition system and the rather high cost of AV-Blend (about $20 per
oil
> change.)
>
> Incidentally, the old right mag (170-hours on it since it was overhauled)
is
> just sitting in the hangar...you can have it for core value (including
> ignition harness) if you pay shipping.
>
> RV-6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
me do it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | The 'Connection's Website is Down . . . |
Our website server has been down intermittantly for the past
several days. Seems that some folk can access it while others
cannot. When this all started, I was able to access it through
our normal cable-modem service and had FTP access as well. Now
it seems to be down 100%. Trying to find a website service tech
on a weekend is about as difficult and finding your doctor.
I've got several calls working to the local and corporate
support numbers.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Hi Troy;
Do yourself the ultimate favor and rent or buy a "Pnuematic Squeezer".
With an Avery "C" yoke you can squash each and every R-410 rivet in less
time than it takes to insert the rivets into the holes.. And they come
out el-perfecto~.
RJ in CT (Left wing closure)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
>From: TBRV(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 19:43:59 EST
>
>
>Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace
>to the rudder horn.
>Thanks.
>Troy Black
>-8 rudder, making yawing noises
>
Troy (and others interested)
I made a short "slug", 11/16" long from a piece of 13/16" dia. steel round
stock (your dia can differ), providing flat polished ends. I then inserted
the loose slug into the brace cavity against the rivet and applied the bare
2 1/2" yoke of the my Avery squeezer. That handled all but two furtherest
in rivets. I see I haven't riveted these two as will need longer yoke or
different solution.
Jack Blomgren
8-Wings
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
TBRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace to
> the rudder horn. For the life of me, I can't figure out a way to buck the
> rivets through the lightening hole. I've showed it to several friends, but
> found no good suggestions. If there's a suitable bucking bar out there that
> does the trick, I'd like to beg, borrow, steal, or buy one. Cherrymax?
> Thanks.
>
> Troy Black
> -8 rudder, making yawing noises
>
Troy-
With the blessing of Vans techies, I used 3 AN-3 bolts- works great,
less hassle, and hidden... (FWIW)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Subject: Re: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>>Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP brace
to the rudder horn.
I have watched this thread now for a couple days but since no one has come
up with the easist solution I will offer my method. I am assuming that the
RV-8 rudder is like the RV-6. I took a piece of bar stock 1"x3/4" x 6" and
inserted it through the hole between the lower rib and the brace just so it
layed on top of the rubber horns. I secured it into place with a rubber band
on each side. Now I could insert the rivet into the hole and the tail of the
rivet would attempt to push the bar stock away from the horn and stretch the
rubber bands. Place the rivet gun on the rivet and in about 12 pops of the
rivet gun I had four perfectly driven rivets. Remove the rubber bands, pull
out the bar stock, and keep on building. I hope this method works for you.
Doug Murray RV-6 working under the cowling
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Make a shim out of aluminum. If you slot the holes, you can slide them in
with the bolt loosened.
Don't forget to safety wires the bolts.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
>Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
>hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
>wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
>the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
>between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
>and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
>
>chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
>me do it)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Chet,
MAke and install an .020 - .025 shim out of aluminum that the bolts will
catch and it will work great.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 3:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
> I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
> Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
> hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
> wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
> the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
> between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
> and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
>
> chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
> me do it)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | electric fuel pump |
Not RV related but yesterday the electric fuel pump sounded strange and
sluggish while priming the Cherokee Arrow. While in the landing sequence
I turned the electric fuel pump on and it popped the circuit breaker.
Is it rebuildable? Anyone had any experience with rebuilt or used pumps?
Earl, RV4 getting ready to mount the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
I did this but instead of a "slug" I used a large hex nut with a polished
side against the working end of the rivet.
Marty Emrath
RV6 wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Blomgren <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>
> >From: TBRV(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
> >Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 19:43:59 EST
> >
> >
> >Listers, how is everyone setting the rivets in the new style R-410PP
brace
> >to the rudder horn.
>
> >Thanks.
> >Troy Black
> >-8 rudder, making yawing noises
> >
> Troy (and others interested)
>
> I made a short "slug", 11/16" long from a piece of 13/16" dia. steel round
> stock (your dia can differ), providing flat polished ends. I then
inserted
> the loose slug into the brace cavity against the rivet and applied the
bare
> 2 1/2" yoke of the my Avery squeezer. That handled all but two furtherest
> in rivets. I see I haven't riveted these two as will need longer yoke or
> different solution.
>
> Jack Blomgren
> 8-Wings
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Builders:
I know there has been a lot of discussion on different angle of attack (AOA)
systems on the web. The mounting method of my systems are currently being
modified to a much "better looking" method. If you are interested in the EM
aviation RiteAngle systems, and have any questions regarding an installation
in your particular aircraft, or about the system itself, please view my
website at http://www.riteangle.com Go to "Frequently Asked Questions"
and then fill out the easy to use inquiry form or e-mail me direclty at
elbie(at)aol.com You can be assured that I do not use the information I
receive from you for anything except giving you an honest answer, usually
within a work day unless I am out of town at a Fly-In.
The RiteAngle 1a is discontuined, with the RiteAngle Basic replacing it at a
lower cost and improved display. This system is for basic primary aircraft
with no flaps. The RiteAngle II systems were designed to fill a need for a
system with the ability to set each LED individually as desired for your
aircraft and also (IIa version) have corrections for four (4) seperate flap
positions. . These two safety features I don't believe any other
manufacturer's angle of attack system has. Audio warning available with each
system.
Since the first RiteAngle 1a system was sold in Jan. '96 and introduced at
Sun n Fun that year, I consider it a compliment that many other
manufacturer's systems are now using the LED display for their easy to
understand "ladder of light" indications and reliability. Costs range from $
250.00 for the RiteAngle Basic version to $ 595.00 for the RiteAngle IIa
version.
Thanks for your time, an please Fly the Safe Angle !
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
Elbie Mendenhall EAA 38308
EM aviation
Owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Paint design software |
Listers:
Has anyone used a software program to design an RV paint scheme. We have
been dabbling with MicroSoft Paint and it seems pretty limited in it's
capabilities. Any suggestions??
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
if the pump has not run dry it probably is a bad motor. i found a new motor
for mine for about half the price of a rebuilt pump and it has run fine for
about two years now. about the only thing that will tear the pump half up is
running it dry.
R. Burns PA30, RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 1:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: electric fuel pump
>
>Not RV related but yesterday the electric fuel pump sounded strange and
>sluggish while priming the Cherokee Arrow. While in the landing sequence
>I turned the electric fuel pump on and it popped the circuit breaker.
>Is it rebuildable? Anyone had any experience with rebuilt or used pumps?
>
>Earl, RV4 getting ready to mount the wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
CY: It sounds like the piston is extended on the affected brake, have
someone guard the hyd reservoir and you press the piston back in. If the
old brake pads were worn thin the piston could be out quite a bit. Hope
this helps;
Harv - RV6A_QB-Controls
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
> Make a shim out of aluminum. If you slot the holes, you can slide them in
> with the bolt loosened.
> Don't forget to safety wires the bolts.
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:46 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>
> >
> >I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
> >Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
> >hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
> >wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
> >the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
> >between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
> >and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
> >
> >chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
> >me do it)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DGangsaas" <DGangsaas(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
What size yoke?
Dagfinn in Seattle (RV-8 Tail Feathers)
----- Original Message -----
From: R.James <vtx(at)ntplx.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
Hi Troy;
Do yourself the ultimate favor and rent or buy a "Pnuematic Squeezer".
With an Avery "C" yoke you can squash each and every R-410 rivet in less
time than it takes to insert the rivets into the holes.. And they come
out el-perfecto~.
RJ in CT (Left wing closure)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
The 410 is what made me finally break down and buy a 4" no-hole yoke. Using
it, hand-squeezing the R410 was a none-event.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wingz
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>
>
> What size yoke?
>
> Dagfinn in Seattle (RV-8 Tail Feathers)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: R.James <vtx(at)ntplx.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:37 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: R-410 to rudder horn rivets
>
>
> Hi Troy;
> Do yourself the ultimate favor and rent or buy a "Pnuematic Squeezer".
> With an Avery "C" yoke you can squash each and every R-410 rivet in less
> time than it takes to insert the rivets into the holes.. And they come
> out el-perfecto~.
>
> RJ in CT (Left wing closure)
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
The reason for the thicker pads is to compensate for a worn disk. You might
have worn down the disk so that the new pads would fit if you hadn't changed
the pads so soon.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
>Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
>hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
>wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
>the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
>between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
>and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
>
>chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
>me do it)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DKugler618(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Attachment - RV8Q |
Anyone who's put the gear legs on their RV8Q may be able to help answer
this...
Referring to dwg 35, (upper left) the U805-1 outboard wear plate, when
installed, covers 4 rivet heads along F843L. Dwg 35 shows two of these
rivets to be AN426 flush and does not specify the other two. On my QB
fuselage, the outer two rivets are AN470 round heads thus not allowing the
wear plate to sit flush.
Since the belly skins are already on in the QB fuselage, if all four of these
rivets are supposed to be flush heads, removing and especially countersinking
the two of them covered by the belly skin would seem impossible. Secondly,
with the belly skins in place, how are you supposed to drill the " attach
holes for the outboard wear plate?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Don
#80608
donk@music-ic.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
Sun 11/7 Chester wrote:
>I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
>Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
>hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
>wheel will not turn. >
I finished up the same job today using the same pads from Avery. No binding
problems. I think it is important to clean everything up well, particularly
the pins that the brake caliper slides back and forth on. I believe the
brake assemblies are ment to be self alighning ane if everything is free to
move no shimming should be required.
Dick Sipp
RV4-250DS
180 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Two piece wheel pants |
Listers,
I flew briefly today with my new two-piece wheel pants. Conditions were not
suitable for good testing (too much vertical air movement) but I know some
people were interested so here are my preliminary results. This is an O-360
powered RV-6 with a Sensenich 72FM8 83" pitch. TAS was read directly off a
Microencoder which was previously calibrated with GPS runs directly into the
wind and directly downwind. The Microencoder calibration has not been
checked recently.
Cruise speed at 9,500 feet at 2700 rpm (not full throttle) was about 174
knots. Full throttle was about 177 knots (over rpm readline). At a relaxed
2600 rpm it was running about 167 knots. In previous testing I found that
2700 rpm speeds are relatively independent of altitude. These speeds are
about 3 knots faster than they were with the old style wheel pants. If
memory serves that is about what Van's says.
I intend to do complete speed testing later.
I flew without wheelpants for a long time while waiting for my wheelpant kit
from Van's. It is a lot more fun with the pants. Much faster speeds and
lower engine temps. I had fun today! You can make it almost like a ballet.
Steep lazy eights then steeper than steeper then on into the rolls then
loops and split s's. When the rhythm is right it feels real graceful.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
Hi All,
For those interested, N565BW is now at 02G. You can see some picture on my
website.
I tried loading on a car trailer but it just wouldn't fit and I ended up
getting a flat/tilt bed truck from a towing company to transport it. I
don't know if the trailer was a standard size or even if there is a
standard size but the -8A wouldn't fit between the wheel wells. It fit
with about 4-5 inches to spare on the flatbed.
Bill Pagan
N565BW
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint design software |
Doug,
I also used Microsoft paint and found that if you have enough memory on
your video board to get 24 bit pixel color data displayed you can get an
almost infinite varity of colors from using the "Custom Color" function. Go
down to one of the colors (that you don't intend to use) and double click,
then click custom colors that will give you a spectrum of colors to chose
from. Still not the best, but better than the 256 color selection.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone used a software program to design an RV paint scheme. We have
> been dabbling with MicroSoft Paint and it seems pretty limited in it's
> capabilities. Any suggestions??
>
> Doug
>
>
> ===========
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dane3(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | IO-360C1E6 don't do this |
Warning:
When buying a used engine such as a rear breathing IO-360C1E6 and having the
front boss area of the airbox opened and studs installed for the servo,
check to make sure it does not hit your nose wheel socket. I have learned
the hard way that it does. I would like to thank Mr. Vetterman for telling
me this before he made my exhaust to fit the IO-360 C1E6. Thank You.
Evidently I am not the first to try this in a RV8a.
So with the help of Mr. Brian Costello (Field/Tech Specialist for Lycoming)
he has informed me I need a
74384 Sump (old number was LW-13864) List price $ 3247.95 intake tubes not
included. So does anyone know any aircraft boneyards or engine rebuilders I
can hunt around for a sump and intake tubes ? Or does anyone have an extra
sump off of a IO-360-A series engine. (Brian Costello was very helpful and
said he had nothing to do with the pricing)
Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated, Thank You
Dane Sheahen
Sumpless in Chicago
dane3(at)ibm.net
RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint design software |
In a message dated 11/07/1999 3:50:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< software program to design an RV paint scheme >>
The folks that provide Panel Planner (a new group in Virginia - just outside
WDC) have a paint scheme program with the RV aircraft.
www.onemileup.com
703 642-1177
FAX 703 642-9088
Federal Clip Art
Frank U. Noe
One Mile Up, Inc.
701 Evergreen Court
Annandale, VA 22003
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 (n44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
We had the same problem when we put new pads and disks on our Skyhawk. The
piston was pushed all the way in. I think you can even buy factory made
shims from Cleveland.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>CY: It sounds like the piston is extended on the affected brake, have
>someone guard the hyd reservoir and you press the piston back in. If the
>old brake pads were worn thin the piston could be out quite a bit. Hope
>this helps;
>Harv - RV6A_QB-Controls
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 11:57 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>
>>
>> Make a shim out of aluminum. If you slot the holes, you can slide them
in
>> with the bolt loosened.
>> Don't forget to safety wires the bolts.
>> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>> (Click here to visit our Club site at
>http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 6:46 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
>> >Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
>> >hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
>> >wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
>> >the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
>> >between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
>> >and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
>> >
>> >chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
>> >me do it)
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
Webco Aircraft in Newton Kansas (316)283-7929 overhauled my Dukes fuel pump
P/N 4140-00-39 for $357 in 1990. They might be a bit more by now. Check with
Airflow Performance in Spartenburg, SC (Don Rivera) at (803) 576-4512 he may
have a better deal.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S Finishing and still wiring
Phoenix DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | U620 parts on the 6A |
On the 6A, there is a stack of parts which support the lower cowl behind
the nose gear and fill the slot needed for the nose gear. Van has a clever
design with the cowl hinge pins locking the cover plate in place. I am
wondering what the experience is with this method. My gut tells me that it
would be better if this cover plate was clamped against the lower cowl with
something like screws, rather than the somewhat loose method if rotating it
in place and locking it with the hinge pins. Any experience out there
regarding this?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Attachment - RV8Q |
The rivets were not a problem for me. I may have ground the head down a
little on one, but I can't remember. For the wear plate holes, I just
drilled holes in the belly skin, and opened them up large enough to get a
socket in there for the attach bolts. The intersection fairing will cover it
anyway.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe3(at)home.com
www.tabshred.com/moe
> Anyone who's put the gear legs on their RV8Q may be able to help answer
> this...
>
> Referring to dwg 35, (upper left) the U805-1 outboard wear plate, when
> installed, covers 4 rivet heads along F843L. Dwg 35 shows two of these
> rivets to be AN426 flush and does not specify the other two. On my QB
> fuselage, the outer two rivets are AN470 round heads thus not allowing the
> wear plate to sit flush.
>
> Since the belly skins are already on in the QB fuselage, if all four of
these
> rivets are supposed to be flush heads, removing and especially
countersinking
> the two of them covered by the belly skin would seem impossible.
Secondly,
> with the belly skins in place, how are you supposed to drill the " attach
> holes for the outboard wear plate?
>
> Thanks in advance for your assistance.
>
> Don
> #80608
> donk@music-ic.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Attachment - RV8Q |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Referring to dwg 35, (upper left) the U805-1 outboard wear plate,
> when
> installed, covers 4 rivet heads along F843L. Dwg 35 shows two of
> these
> rivets to be AN426 flush and does not specify the other two. On my
> QB
> fuselage, the outer two rivets are AN470 round heads thus not
> allowing the
> wear plate to sit flush.
>
> Since the belly skins are already on in the QB fuselage, if all four
> of these
> rivets are supposed to be flush heads, removing and especially
> countersinking
> the two of them covered by the belly skin would seem impossible.
> Secondly,
> with the belly skins in place, how are you supposed to drill the "
> attach
> holes for the outboard wear plate?
>
> Thanks in advance for your assistance.
>
> Don
> #80608
> donk@music-ic.com
>
Don,
the problem issues with these rivets have been corrected (though I know
that doesn't solve your problem).
The easiest way I have found to solve the problem (and one that is
totally acceptable from a structural standpoint) is to determine as best
you can the proper location for the plate. Smear a very thin layer of
kids oil based modeling clay on the plate in the area of the rivets.
Reinsert the plates and push down to make an impression of the rivet
heads in the clay. Remove the plates, center punch the rivet location
and drill a shallow impression in the plate at the location of the
rivets. Go just deep enough to let it lay flush over the rivet heads. I
think an 5/16 drill is big enough if you hit it exactly right on. A 3/8
would be acceptable if you miss it slightly.
As for drilling the outer end bolt holes... you need to drill a hole
through the F-850 and F-851 skins. This is not a problem since the gear
leg intersection/root fairings that you will be making will cover them
up.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: U620 parts on the 6A |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> On the 6A, there is a stack of parts which support the lower cowl
> behind
> the nose gear and fill the slot needed for the nose gear. Van has a
> clever
> design with the cowl hinge pins locking the cover plate in place. I
> am
> wondering what the experience is with this method. My gut tells me
> that it
> would be better if this cover plate was clamped against the lower
> cowl with
> something like screws, rather than the somewhat loose method if
> rotating it
> in place and locking it with the hinge pins. Any experience out
> there
> regarding this?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
I think you are seeing something incorrectly on that drawing.
The cover plate is held on with 2 screws, and it does capture the cowl.
The only thing related to hinge pins is that they both protrude down
through holes in the cover plate to safety/capture the cowl bottom
firewall hinge pins.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Scott McDaniels,
>
> Thanks for the offer to help Scott. I am building an 8 ( #80775)
> and
> have the cowling on. My airflow performance injector has only about
> a
> 1/2" forward clearance from the cowl at its bottom lip and 3" at the
> top. It sticks out 7" from the sump. IO-360 A1B6 forward facing
> injector. I haven't cut the flange off of the Vans supplied S duct
> in
> case I need to return it. The airflow manual shows a tapered air
> filter
> stuck straight on the intake with a chin scoop on the cowl. I was
> thinking that may be what I will need. It seems that arrangement
> would
> also get more ram rise than the baffle mounted intake.
>
> Ideas?
>
I am not sure what the dimensions for the airflow perf servo body is but
I thought it was the same as a bendix (anyone know for sure?).
If there is no way the induction plenum is going to fit... I really have
no answer. They have been installed on numerous customer built RV-8's
and I believe at least one customer built RV-8A with no clearance
problems.
Couple questions...
Do you have a constant speed prop or fixed pitch?
How much gap is there between the back of the spinner and the cowl?
Are you absolutely certain that you would have to modify the plenum to
get it fitted?
Since I know the approx height of the servo, if you had 1/2" of clearance
at the bottom I am quite sure you would have to have more than 3" at the
top because of the shallow slope angle of the cowl. If the cowl angle to
the servo was 45 deg. (I think it is even shallower than that) and the
servo is about 4 " high you would have to have at least 4 1/2 inches at
the top edge.
Just in case you weren't aware... You need to trim quite a bit off of the
top end of the plenum (where it mates to the air filter and the baffle
inlet ramp)
before you can rotate the plenum into its correct installed position.
This could possibly be causing some problems that make it not look like
it will fit.
As for using a different air inlet type... Van did a lot of testing and
found there to be very little difference in manifold pressure between the
system you have now and one using an inlet scoop down on the front of the
cowl. Remember... The upper baffle plenum area is pressurized.
Even with the inlet filter mounted on the inlet ramp area, it is inside
of the pressure area.
Installing a filter like mentioned could probably work just as well, but
if done incorrectly it could be much worse. Believe me, doing this by
eye(what looks like it should work ok) can very often bite you.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360C1E6 don't do this |
Get a copy of Trade A Plane and look to see if some one is parting out a
simular engine. Then if no luck begin phoning all of the salvage yards and
engine shops that are listed amongst the thousands of adds. You might get
everything you need for under a grand.
Regards,
Norman
> Warning:
> When buying a used engine such as a rear breathing IO-360C1E6 and having
the
> front boss area of the airbox opened and studs installed for the servo,
> check to make sure it does not hit your nose wheel socket. I have learned
> the hard way that it does. I would like to thank Mr. Vetterman for
telling
> me this before he made my exhaust to fit the IO-360 C1E6. Thank You.
> Evidently I am not the first to try this in a RV8a.
>
> So with the help of Mr. Brian Costello (Field/Tech Specialist for
Lycoming)
> he has informed me I need a
> 74384 Sump (old number was LW-13864) List price $ 3247.95 intake tubes
not
> included. So does anyone know any aircraft boneyards or engine rebuilders
I
> can hunt around for a sump and intake tubes ? Or does anyone have an
extra
> sump off of a IO-360-A series engine. (Brian Costello was very helpful and
> said he had nothing to do with the pricing)
>
> Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated, Thank You
>
> Dane Sheahen
> Sumpless in Chicago
> dane3(at)ibm.net
> RV8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | First Flight N58DM |
The Facts:
First Flight Sunday 11/7/99
N58DM
Serial # 24148
Van's RV6
Completed, Dry weight 1055 Lb..
Used 160hp 0320H2AD 1500SMOH
Sensenich Metal "Cruise Prop"
Started 4/25/95 in home cellar, Cicero, NY.
Finished at EAA 486 Hanger KFZY, Oswego Airport
Fulton, New York. (WHAT A GREAT PLACE!!, see the web pages).
Build time @ 1800 Hours (includes: Phlogoston Spar/Barnard Wing kits).
So @ 4.5 years later...air under the tires.
Test Pilot Fellow RV6 Builder/pilot Alan McKeen at the stick.
(His plane is also RV6 160hp FP). Ground operations controlled by
fellow RV6 Builder/pilot John Balbierer, (His plane is also RV6 180hp CS).
MANY THANKS GUYS, for all your help!
2 flights accomplished 11/7/99. @ 1.5 hours logged in air.
Cowl removed between flights, inspections went well.
Fuel drains sumped, fuel level checked, oil checked,
over all general conditional inspections done.
Early reports went like this:
OAT approximately BRISK 41 degrees.
Winds @ 8-13 mph down Runway 33
2 Heat muffs work well.
Pilot ANR PA-79's work well.
High speed taxi runs, tail up, handles well.
Take off distance normal (down right short to SPAM can standards),
Plane climbs well.
Climb to cloud base @ 3700 feet.
Flight controls evaluated..all well. Light and responsive.
Right Rudder "RV block" will be needed.
(Installed & appeared fixed on 2nd flight)
Elevator trim appears OK as is, barely moved.
R wing is the heavy side, @ 1 pound pull to level.
The usual minor adjustment needed and we'll fix soon.
Slow speed evaluation at cloud base:
Approach to landing w/o flaps
Took a while to slow down.
80 mph ias OK
70 mushy
60 nose high
58 stall, R wing drop
Approach to landing 1/2 flaps
80 mph ias OK
70 mushy
60 nose high
57 stall, nose drop centered
Approach to landing full flaps
80 mph ias OK
70 mushy
60 nose high
55 stall, nose drop centered.
Summary, good stall characteristics, lots of mushy feeling and warning.
Dropped nose, add power, instantly to 100mph and recovers well with minimal
altitude loss.
Best Glide..85 mph ias
engine idle
600-700 fpm descent.
360 degree turns, at 10 degree, 20 and 30 degree banks went well.
Some more early numbers:
(no wheel pants installed)
Power setting held at 25" map, 2330 rpm, 168 Mph ias.
Wide open rpm/mph ias was higher, but I failed to record.
All I could remember was is seemed blistering, BUT IT IS AN RV!!
Wood, Fiberglass gear legs., pneumatic tail wheel.
Landings went well. Felt OK to Alan, like his plane.
All flight and engine gages working.
RV grins were all around....
The Van's NY RV AF grew by 1.
Yet another example of the plane, built to the plans,
yielding the design numbers. Thank you Van.
Respectfully
David E. McManmon
N58DM
Builder/Owner
Cicero NY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
I also found the 6" machine square worked very well (from a tip out of
the archives). I brought one for this purpose and now find it
indispensable as a square.
Considered Cherrymax, however Van's response was discouraging so decided
to do it IAW the plans.
Doug Gray
Wings
> that of the 6A. What I found that worked like a charm is the heavy end of a
> medium sized machine square
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360C1E6 don't do this |
Dane: I will be going to my airplane junkyard tomorrow I will look to see
if there might be a
I0-360A sump there. I will let you know tomorrow night.
Regards: Harvey Sigmon RV-6A- Control systems
----- Original Message -----
From: <dane3(at)attglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 9:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: IO-360C1E6 don't do this
>
> Warning:
> When buying a used engine such as a rear breathing IO-360C1E6 and having
the
> front boss area of the airbox opened and studs installed for the servo,
> check to make sure it does not hit your nose wheel socket. I have learned
> the hard way that it does. I would like to thank Mr. Vetterman for
telling
> me this before he made my exhaust to fit the IO-360 C1E6. Thank You.
> Evidently I am not the first to try this in a RV8a.
>
> So with the help of Mr. Brian Costello (Field/Tech Specialist for
Lycoming)
> he has informed me I need a
> 74384 Sump (old number was LW-13864) List price $ 3247.95 intake tubes
not
> included. So does anyone know any aircraft boneyards or engine rebuilders
I
> can hunt around for a sump and intake tubes ? Or does anyone have an
extra
> sump off of a IO-360-A series engine. (Brian Costello was very helpful and
> said he had nothing to do with the pricing)
>
> Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated, Thank You
>
> Dane Sheahen
> Sumpless in Chicago
> dane3(at)ibm.net
> RV8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N58DM |
David,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (starting canopy)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Guys,
Picture this: Low pressure weather system dumps heavy rain on RV parked
outside.. Tennis ball on piper blade style pito tube fills with water due to
heavy rain running down the underside of the wing. Then High weather system
comes in, forcing the water out of the tennis ball into static system. After
a couple of times of this, your VSI, Altimeter, and Airspeed gauges all have
water in them.......AND NEED REPLACING.... Maybe that $20 Sporties cover was
less expensive after all......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
Guys.....I don't have access to a trade-a-plane here at work but
the company
name you are seeking is AERO-TRIM run by a ole gentleman named Dr.
Norm Smith.
(you may have seen him snoozing at any given aircraft trade
show...he usually
has a stool & display table bumped up against some other major
vendors' table)
His company has the locking gas cap mods & STC'ed trim systems for
just about
every aircraft in existence. I have seen his advertisements
...(small 2 inch by
2 inch) in the back of trade-a-plane for locking gas caps & for the
AERO-TRIM
trim systems. Most Mooney folks know of Norm...he is a frugal sort
who has many
common sense or cheep alternatives to thingies...actually his
thingies are quite
clever . Example-- free Tennis ball with hole poked in it - as
pitot cover
instead of the 25.00$ ones in Sporties.......there are thousands of
other
thingies Norm has come up with over the years...... I have installed
his trim
system & indicator & he has offered a discount to me due to a
experimental
installation rather than on a certified aircraft.....I am very
satisfied with
the trim & locking gas caps I got from Norm... Lastly Norm knows
just about
everybody in the aircraft industry and if you buy from Norm, you
automatically
become a member of Norms "discount club"...you can search for the
best deal at
any given air-trade show then walk up to Norm (or call him later)
and he will
turn you on to some vendor/supplier he has a relationship with and
you are
guaranteed to get the best price...I've done this many times and was
pleasantly
surprised everytime... I have No relationship with Norm (he probably
would not
recognise me)..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew and Dawn Coward" <coward(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator remote drain |
I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
From the 'optional' location that the plans show, it would seem that in
order to drain the gascolator, I would need a 'remote pull to drain'
cable -- similar to the Cessna system.
Short of a salvage yard, anyone know where I can get my hands on something
like that?
If someone has a better solution, I am all ears...
-Andrew Coward
80% done, 80% to go...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much fuel
entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered properly
. I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick human
hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf. pressure
orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer orfice
fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe thread
side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
other......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Hello,
As of late last week, I'm no longer a tire-kicker, so I thought I'd take
a moment and introduce myself to the list.
Personal details: 33 years old, CFI, retired LAN admin, amateur stock
piddler, certified aviation nut, aspiring homebuilder.
I've been lurking on the list (and reading it daily) for well over a
year, and dreaming of being able to start my project. I've endlessly
pored over the preview plans and manual and watched the Orndorff videos
until my wife thinks I've subscribed to the all RV, all the time cable
channel. I attended Sun'n Fun this past spring and took a flight in the
-6 with Mike S. I found the RV to be everything it'd been cracked up to
be. My only remaining problem was finding a place to build.
Problem solved. We bought a new house with an oversized two-car
workshop that should be perfect for my nefarious purposes and we're
closing and moving in on December 1. I ordered the empennage and wing
kits about two weeks ago and, with the arrival of written confirmation
from Van's, I'm officially a numbered builder! My plan is to work on
the RV full-time until it flies. How long it'll actually take on the
calendar remains to be seen, but I'm hoping for Sun'n Fun '01. In any
case, I can't wait to get started putting the shop together on December
2.
Well, sorry to waste so much bandwidth on this sort of thing, but I've
been looking forward to joining this community for a long time and I
thought I'd say hello.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 #81125
tail & wing kits on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
I have my doubts on a rebuilt fuel pump. the Piper Owners Club Maintenance GURU
may have the best answer for you. BUT.....if the old pump is trash, open it up
to determine if it failed a normal death or was it fouled up with crud from bad
fuel tanks, bad tank sealer, rust, bad/old fuel lines......the cause may point
to further problems upstream in the fuel system. Also, look at all the rubber
lines I've seen rubber flex lines so brittle that a hammer blow on the bench
shattered them (.....it was in the summer time too)...... Inspect the solid
lines too.....,
e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net on 11/07/99 02:41:19 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: electric fuel pump
Not RV related but yesterday the electric fuel pump sounded strange and
sluggish while priming the Cherokee Arrow. While in the landing sequence
I turned the electric fuel pump on and it popped the circuit breaker.
Is it rebuildable? Anyone had any experience with rebuilt or used pumps?
Earl, RV4 getting ready to mount the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need RV-4 Kit |
"Rocketrider" needs a rv-4 kit to train "young
people"..........HMMMMMMMM........
RocketRider2(at)aol.com on 11/05/99 09:18:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Need RV-4 Kit
Does anyone have an RV4 wing or Fuse kit that they are wanting to get rid of?
This would have to be something that you REALLY want to get rid of. I want to
use it to train younger people how to build metal airplanes. (startem' young
:
) ). If anyone has one that is just collecting dust and wants it to go to
good use, please lemme know. This might be a ridiculous posting, but it is
worth a try. Please reply offline.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
My grandfather had 50 cent pieces between the piston and the backing
plate.......... to use up the pads. Use only FAA/PMA Authorized Govermant Issue
Coinage if doung this trick.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel primer components |
I know you can make these fittings up, but rather than hassle with it I
would rather work with the real thing. I need to replace the standard
An4-1/8 npt fittings I have right now on my engine...I looked in ac$ and
wick's catalogs and didn't find them. Where can I order these fittings from?
I was under the impression that Lycoming makes a complete primer kit
including the distribution block, bent lines, and fittings. Can anyone
confirm this? I bet it's not cheap if it does exist.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RV-6, finishing touches on fuselage
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much
fuel
entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
properly
. I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
human
hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
pressure
orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer orfice
fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
thread
side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
other......
________________________________________________________________________________
Who knows what to use for filling and smoothing the aluminum molding around
the windscreen? Mine is somewhat rough, and I want to fill it. Will epoxy
with micro stick and stay? I am concerned about differential expansion with
heating and cooling, causing cracks???????
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | THE MEANING OF VOLUNTARY |
Hello Guys and Gals,
Lets have a little discussion on what the meaning of VOLUNTARY is. Webster
has it as:
1. Brought about by one's own free choice; given or done of one's own free
will; freely chosen or undertaken.( 2. 3. 4. 5. have to do with
manslaughter, muscles, and agency.) 6. Supported by contributions or
freewill offerings; not supported by the state.
"Voluntary implies the exercise of one's own free choice or will in an
action, whether or not external influences are at work."
Every April 15th I always feel like I am being FORCED to pay for a lot of
things I not only don't believe in but that are outright against a lot of
what I do believe in. Sure a lot of my tax dollars go to things I use and
things I believe in and given the CHOICE I always say I would pay for those
even if I weren't forced to.Unfortunately I don't have the opportunity to
prove that. I HAVE to pay for all of it! Like it or not.
Well that brings us to the Matronics Lists. Here we have a service that we
use in one way or another. Whether you read it for the entertainment value
or the technical content or the flying information or the occasional
controversies, the point is you still read it. By being subscribed there
must be something of interest here that has a value to you. This is your
chance to prove that you would pay for those "services" that you use
without being "forced" to pay. In this way you have the freedom to "price"
out what your own "tax rate" should be. The freedom to pay for exactly what
you feel you use. Of course, if you give a little extra it is appreciated,
but giving SOMETHING is the whole point. To be counted in the LOC (List of
Contributors) at the end of the fund raiser is an honor! It doesn't say how
much you gave, it just says you gave. It says you care and you are willing
to carry a part of the load. It gives you a chance to prove to yourself and
others that you would pay for what you use and believe in without being
FORCED to pay for it all. Of course if you don't give at all, you may not
be the person you think you are. VOLUNTARY means........................YOU!
Please give something today if you haven't
already..............................
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Next we may delve into what the meaning of "is" is. uh......maybe not! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N58DM |
Congratulations, David...I didn't know you were that close to being
airborne!!! I flew from Texas to Kansas for lunch on Friday...Two hours
going with tailwind...longer returning. Just look at all the places you
can have lunch within two hours of your hangar! Have fun... Will
RV6160hp(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The Facts:
>
> First Flight Sunday 11/7/99
> N58DM
> Serial # 24148
> Van's RV6
> Completed, Dry weight 1055 Lb..
> Used 160hp 0320H2AD 1500SMOH
> Sensenich Metal "Cruise Prop"
> Started 4/25/95 in home cellar, Cicero, NY.
> Finished at EAA 486 Hanger KFZY, Oswego Airport
> Fulton, New York. (WHAT A GREAT PLACE!!, see the web pages).
> Build time @ 1800 Hours (includes: Phlogoston Spar/Barnard Wing kits).
>
> So @ 4.5 years later...air under the tires.
> Test Pilot Fellow RV6 Builder/pilot Alan McKeen at the stick.
> (His plane is also RV6 160hp FP). Ground operations controlled by
> fellow RV6 Builder/pilot John Balbierer, (His plane is also RV6 180hp CS).
> MANY THANKS GUYS, for all your help!
>
> 2 flights accomplished 11/7/99. @ 1.5 hours logged in air.
> Cowl removed between flights, inspections went well.
> Fuel drains sumped, fuel level checked, oil checked,
> over all general conditional inspections done.
>
> Early reports went like this:
>
> OAT approximately BRISK 41 degrees.
> Winds @ 8-13 mph down Runway 33
> 2 Heat muffs work well.
> Pilot ANR PA-79's work well.
>
> High speed taxi runs, tail up, handles well.
>
> Take off distance normal (down right short to SPAM can standards),
> Plane climbs well.
> Climb to cloud base @ 3700 feet.
> Flight controls evaluated..all well. Light and responsive.
> Right Rudder "RV block" will be needed.
> (Installed & appeared fixed on 2nd flight)
> Elevator trim appears OK as is, barely moved.
> R wing is the heavy side, @ 1 pound pull to level.
> The usual minor adjustment needed and we'll fix soon.
>
> Slow speed evaluation at cloud base:
> Approach to landing w/o flaps
> Took a while to slow down.
> 80 mph ias OK
> 70 mushy
> 60 nose high
> 58 stall, R wing drop
>
> Approach to landing 1/2 flaps
> 80 mph ias OK
> 70 mushy
> 60 nose high
> 57 stall, nose drop centered
>
> Approach to landing full flaps
> 80 mph ias OK
> 70 mushy
> 60 nose high
> 55 stall, nose drop centered.
>
> Summary, good stall characteristics, lots of mushy feeling and warning.
> Dropped nose, add power, instantly to 100mph and recovers well with minimal
> altitude loss.
>
> Best Glide..85 mph ias
> engine idle
> 600-700 fpm descent.
>
> 360 degree turns, at 10 degree, 20 and 30 degree banks went well.
>
> Some more early numbers:
> (no wheel pants installed)
> Power setting held at 25" map, 2330 rpm, 168 Mph ias.
> Wide open rpm/mph ias was higher, but I failed to record.
> All I could remember was is seemed blistering, BUT IT IS AN RV!!
>
> Wood, Fiberglass gear legs., pneumatic tail wheel.
> Landings went well. Felt OK to Alan, like his plane.
>
> All flight and engine gages working.
>
> RV grins were all around....
> The Van's NY RV AF grew by 1.
>
> Yet another example of the plane, built to the plans,
> yielding the design numbers. Thank you Van.
>
> Respectfully
> David E. McManmon
> N58DM
> Builder/Owner
> Cicero NY.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N58DM |
In a message dated 11/8/99 6:30:11 AM, RV6160hp(at)aol.com writes:
<>
David.... Congrats on your first flight and thanks for the indepth incentive
report. I was able to see your RV at the Oswego RV Flyin in Sept and you did
a great job. Keep us posted on your flight testing progress.
ps I have lots of digital pics of yourplane if you need any.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV QB Control systems (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator remote drain |
There is lots of data in the archives on this matter. I downloaded all the data
& read it & made my decision NOT to have a gascolater. All the points are
covered in the history files so I won't restate. On my RV-4 I had no room
because of the engine mount, didn't want the gascolater in the interior of the
aircraft, didn't like the quality of the ACS unit ( ANDAIR unit is better by
far) ., the gascolator was not at the low point on my RV-4.........ect.
I used inline screen filters prior to the selector, (ANDAIR Selector was
chosen). Here in the Northeast there are many builders going this route.
coward(at)midsouth.rr.com on 11/08/99 08:58:44 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Gascolator remote drain
I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
From the 'optional' location that the plans show, it would seem that in
order to drain the gascolator, I would need a 'remote pull to drain'
cable -- similar to the Cessna system.
Short of a salvage yard, anyone know where I can get my hands on something
like that?
If someone has a better solution, I am all ears...
-Andrew Coward
80% done, 80% to go...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested in
anyone else's experience.
RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no change
to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm to
full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted for a
richer mixture? I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
mixture is too lean in the climb. Also noticed that fuel drips out of
the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down, comes
out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the ventury, is this normal?
Regards Peter (Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A near-mid air... |
>
>Mr. Eagle was completely
>unimpressed by the imminent catastrophe and didn't bother to do his part of
>the evasion equation. I'm positive that he brushed the top of the canopy.
Then it was probably a turkey buzzard. My encounter with hawks and eagles
is that they tend to "stoop" (fold their wings and drop) when "attacked" by
an airplane. Turkey buzzards just soar fat, dumb, and happy as you slice
them to pieces with your prop (I have seen this happen a couple of times
and I have had a couple of near misses with all of the aforementioned
aerial denizens). That makes the avoidance manuver (assuming you can see
them soon enough) a climbing one. I would much rather take a bird on the
belly and have to replace my antennas down there than I would take one in
the canopy.
>Pens and flight bags (and AOPA encyclopedias) weigh an awful lot when they
>are accelerated at 1.5x their normal weight into the canopy. And they scare
>the hell out of you when they land in your lap during the 3g recovery. I
>can't believe that there was no damage done to the canopy (interior OR
>exterior).
Once you start doing acro you will become a believer of cleanliness and
security. The first time you pull negative you will be very surprised by
what ends up "in the air".
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer |
I just bought the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery and was playing around
with it this past weekend. I'm a little confused as to how to put the dies
in the yoke. When I place a die on the part that moves when you press the
lever, it falls off after the plunger retracts. I know I'm an idiot but
what am I doing wrong here? Did I forget to order something? Any help
would be appreciated!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator remote drain |
Andrew,
You don't say in your post what you are building. I can fill you in on what
I did on my RV-6 so this may help you, or it may not.
After contemplating this issue for some time and reviewing the archives, I
decided to mount a gascolator rather than skip the part and install in-line
filters. I fabricated a mount that bolts to the firewall and clamps to the
right gear leg sleeve on the engine mount. This allows the gascolator to
sit out from the firewall about 6-8 inches yet remain sturdy. It also sits
about two inches inside the right side of the cowl. The run to the fuel
pump on the engine is very easy since the input port on the pump is on the
right hand side of the pump. (O-320 on my bird)
To access the drain cock from the outside, I used a hole saw and drilled
through my cowl at an angle equal to the angle of the drain cock. This
creates an elliptical hole in the cowl. My drain tube fits easily through
the opening. To close the opening, I mounted a spring loaded Camloc button
door over the opening and riveted a .032 plate to the front of it to match
the shape of my opening. I put a spacer plate between the hinge half and
the cowling so that the door would sit flush with the outside of the cowl.
End result is a flush fitting door that is easily pushed aside by my finger
when inserting the drain tube. I can turn and drain the gascolator, and
then visually check to make sure that the drain cock closes and reseats
itself.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting........still"
>
>I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
>
>If someone has a better solution, I am all ears...
>
>-Andrew Coward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Not on current Clevelands. The coin will fall out. Works fine on old Champs
and Chiefs how ever.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>
> My grandfather had 50 cent pieces between the piston and the backing
>plate.......... to use up the pads. Use only FAA/PMA Authorized Govermant
Issue
>Coinage if doung this trick.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
>
>>Correct me if I am wrong, but can't you float charge them at about 13.2 V
>>without any damage? I know that this is temperature sensitive but that
>>seem to be about right for room temperature (70-80 degrees F).
>
> Yes . . but this is not a voltage level that will "charge" them.
> Trickle chargers tend to run in a constant current mode at some
> level. People have put solar cells on their hangars and hooked
> them to the battery via diode and dismayed to find battery wasted
> after a hundred days or so of 100-500 mA constant "trickle" while
> sun is up.
Yes, continuous constant current is bad. Lead/acid batteries do well with
constant current/constant voltage charging (the charger delivers a constant
current until the float voltage is reached then switch to constant
voltage). It is the selection of this constant voltage that is the bugaboo.
> A voltage regulated battery maintainer clamps the charge
> level to some value between open circuit voltage (about
> 12.5) and nominal top-off for the present temperature (about
> 13.8 at room temp).
Right. That is what I was saying.
> Unless you're SURE the charger you choose
> is sophisticated enough to properly maintain a battery,
> then an every 90 day charge is the prudent way to go. The
> self discharge rate of RG's is so low that periodic maintenance
> is practical.
Most aircraft electrical systems select something close to 14V for the
constant voltage in order to ensure that all of the charge is replaced in
the battery in short order. On the other hand, if you hold a battery at
14V for a very long period of time, it will eventually damage it.
I have spent a fair bit of time working with lead/acid batteries in standby
power systems. The ultimate charger does constant current/constant voltage
(13.8V) until the battery is fully charged and then drops down to a
constant "float" voltage of 13.2V (or thereabouts). That is sufficient to
maintain full charge without causing any problem for the battery. You can
just start with a 13.2V float voltage but that will only get your battery
up to about 90% of full charge in a reasonable period of time. If you
leave it at that voltage it will eventually (weeks) float up to a full charge.
Wow, there you go Bob! This is the ultimate electrical system battery
charge controller! It is constant current to the battery then constant
voltage until full charge, then it drops the buss voltage to 13.2V to float
the battery at full charge.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Squeezer |
There's a ring in a groove around the stem of the die. You need to pry it open
slightly so that it provides friction against the side of the hole in which it
is
inserted; then it won't fall out.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I just bought the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery and was playing around
> with it this past weekend. I'm a little confused as to how to put the dies
> in the yoke. When I place a die on the part that moves when you press the
> lever, it falls off after the plunger retracts. I know I'm an idiot but
> what am I doing wrong here? Did I forget to order something? Any help
> would be appreciated!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel primer components |
Try Performance Air Flow. They are sure to have them or know whrer to get them.
Don't have their number handy but its in the archieve.
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com on 11/08/99 09:24:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel primer components
I know you can make these fittings up, but rather than hassle with it I
would rather work with the real thing. I need to replace the standard
An4-1/8 npt fittings I have right now on my engine...I looked in ac$ and
wick's catalogs and didn't find them. Where can I order these fittings from?
I was under the impression that Lycoming makes a complete primer kit
including the distribution block, bent lines, and fittings. Can anyone
confirm this? I bet it's not cheap if it does exist.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RV-6, finishing touches on fuselage
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much
fuel
entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
properly
. I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
human
hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
pressure
orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer orfice
fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
thread
side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
other......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption |
>
>The question is hard to answer; that is, did fuel consumption drop due to
>break in or the Av Blend/electronic ignition...I believe it's due to
>either/both the ignition/AvBlend....the reason I think this is that the drop
>in fuel use from fill up to fill up immediately showed up when the Light
>Speed and AvBlend was used....it was an immediate change....but other
>inquiring minds may have other thoughts.
It is probably due to the ignition. If you think about the amount of
horsepower that 1 GPH represents, it is really unlikely that you had those
kinds of losses to friction inside the engine. At your altitude, the spark
advance would make a pretty big difference so that is where I would put my
money.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
>
>I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested in
>anyone else's experience.
>
>RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no change
>to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm to
>full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted for a
>richer mixture?
What does it do at full throttle? Remember that the carb automatically
enrichens the mixture at full throttle (the "economizer" valve).
>I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
>mixture is too lean in the climb.
Normally (Lycoming engines) you don't pull the throttle back in the climb
so it shouldn't be an issue.
>Also noticed that fuel drips out of
>the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down, comes
>out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the venturi, is this normal?
If it drips continuously, no. That could be a leaky float valve.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
For priming purposes you dont need to worry about the size of the orfice in
the end of the fitting. Since the engine is not running as you are priming
and that priming is mainly for starting the engine only the orfice size
doesn't matter. Usually you will find most of you primer line failures due
to the orfice being cloged and the pressure usually helps with cracking the
copper flared tube fitting....along with vibration. you can also only shove
so much fuel thru the 1/8" copper line and unless you pump, pump, and over
pump the primer it will be just fine. BTW the small orfice in a stock
primer system is a #60 drill bit. The small size was thought up long ago as
a safety item so if you got leak by the primer your engine wouldn't run in
an over rich condition. Later they found that it would be pretty hard to
get the engine that rich thru the 1/8" lines.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
>
> Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
> proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much
fuel
> entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
properly
> . I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
human
> hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
pressure
> orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer
orfice
> fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
thread
> side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
> other......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage & Charging ( Elect Bob ) |
Bob, what is the correct charge-ing procedure for the RG's ? Reading these two
posts seem to leave the builder in a catch 22. Trickle is bad....but every 90
days fry it ?? How do I correctly charge on the 90 day cycle ??? giving that
most builders have a 2 amp / 6 amp, sorta dumb, cheep auto charger at
home/hanger......
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com on 11/05/99 10:47:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Battery Storage
>
>Trickle is less than 2 amps, even 1 amp is more than plenty. Go get a
>motorcycle battery maintainer or an automatic shut off charger with a 2 amp
>or less charging rate. If you get the little booklet manual you will see
>that the initial charge is less than 2 amps for less than 24 hours if my
>memory serves me right.
A "trickle" charge at any rate is hazardous to RG batteries.
The self discharge rate on a new RG is less than 0.5% per day.
Recharging on a 90 day cycle means you get it boosted back up
before capacity drops below 50% where the chemistry starts being
more internally destructive. Bring them up every 90 days and
then let them sit.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
The fuel coming from the carb is a stuck float or a pitted seat on the
float. easy to fix.
The lean mixture problem can be solved by drilling out the main jet. I
think it is a #30 drill bit to begin with and just drillit one size bigger.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 6:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: EGT readings
>
> I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested in
> anyone else's experience.
>
> RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no change
> to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm to
> full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted for a
> richer mixture? I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
> mixture is too lean in the climb. Also noticed that fuel drips out of
> the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down, comes
> out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the ventury, is this normal?
>
> Regards Peter (Toronto)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Web site update, New Rudder Pix... |
Hi all...
I moved my web site to a new URL, though it is with the same provider;
Tripod.com... I will be upgrading my membership with them soon that will
double my disk space, and remove the adds from my site. The cost is $36 for
six months... I great deal for 22MB, FrontPage support, and unlimited
everything else... And their servers / link are very fast in my opinion...
Anyway... I got started on my rudder this weekend... My stiffeners were
not pre-punched, but I had no problems making them... I made a template for
cutting them, and used shears to do it... I also made a box for drilling
them. I used a heavy piece of alum. scrap from another project, measured
the trailing edge clearance of 3/4", marked that position, then clamped the
rudder spar to it and marked the rest of the holes for drilling. I got even
spacing, and the holes at the spar end of the stiffeners all lined up
perfectly... I then placed the stiffeners in the box, put the drill guide
on top, drilled one end, clecoed it, and then drilled the rest... You can
see some new pix on my web site on the rudder page, but I do not have any
text published yet...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Rudder
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator remote drain |
<<
I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
From the 'optional' location that the plans show, it would seem that in
order to drain the gascolator, I would need a 'remote pull to drain'
cable -- similar to the Cessna system.
Short of a salvage yard, anyone know where I can get my hands on something
like that?
If someone has a better solution, I am all ears...
-Andrew Coward
80% done, 80% to go...
>>
I just put a little door on the lower left hand side so I can reach in and
drain fuel
into a container and check it for water.
Jim RV6A 29 hr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
<<
Well, sorry to waste so much bandwidth on this sort of thing, but I've
been looking forward to joining this community for a long time and I
thought I'd say hello.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 #81125
tail & wing kits on order >>
There is always room for another RV builder! Welcome.
Jim RV6A 29 hours (3rd one)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage |
>I have spent a fair bit of time working with lead/acid batteries in standby
>power systems. The ultimate charger does constant current/constant voltage
>(13.8V) until the battery is fully charged and then drops down to a
>constant "float" voltage of 13.2V (or thereabouts). That is sufficient to
>maintain full charge without causing any problem for the battery. You can
>just start with a 13.2V float voltage but that will only get your battery
>up to about 90% of full charge in a reasonable period of time. If you
>leave it at that voltage it will eventually (weeks) float up to a full
charge.
>
>Wow, there you go Bob! This is the ultimate electrical system battery
>charge controller! It is constant current to the battery then constant
>voltage until full charge, then it drops the buss voltage to 13.2V to float
>the battery at full charge.
It's been in the works for awhile. Don't know if it will show
up in the B&C LR-4 or in an AeroElectric Connection product.
We're evaluating some much later technologies (like micro-
controllers) for use in voltage regulation and electrical
system management tasks. Need to drive parts count down
which will drive prices down while keeping performance
same or better. Had a meeting with a wanna-be manufacturer
of light plane aviation hardware yesterday . . . we're
talking about having them become our manufacturing arm
so that I can spend more time on development and sales
of new products and less time sticking parts on the
boards at the workbench!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
Might have a sinking plastic float.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT readings
>
>>
>>I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested in
>>anyone else's experience.
>>
>>RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no change
>>to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm to
>>full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted for a
>>richer mixture?
>
>What does it do at full throttle? Remember that the carb automatically
>enrichens the mixture at full throttle (the "economizer" valve).
>
>>I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
>>mixture is too lean in the climb.
>
>Normally (Lycoming engines) you don't pull the throttle back in the climb
>so it shouldn't be an issue.
>
>>Also noticed that fuel drips out of
>>the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down, comes
>>out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the venturi, is this normal?
>
>If it drips continuously, no. That could be a leaky float valve.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6513 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Need drill press |
Anyone know a good place to get a drill press? I need to do a little more
precision work than the air drill is allowing me.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Listers,
Just wanted to let the RV-8ers among you know that my web site is finally
up. As with all of our sites it is a work in progress, I will continue to
evolve it. Due to the number of excellent sites that document the entire
building process, I have chosen to focus not on the whole building process,
but rather on anything I'm doing that is different or special in some way.
For example my battery installation is a bit creative and might be of
interest to RV-8 builders trying to decide between fwd and aft locations.
You can check it out at...
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Cheers,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, mounting wings
Home Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
<< The lean mixture problem can be solved by drilling out the main jet. I
think it is a #30 drill bit to begin with and just drillit one size bigger.
>>
Odds are you will find the main jet is #43 drill size. Several of us have
drilled out to as large as #37 to correct lean mixture. I jumped straight to
this size to save steps, and have since wished my jet were not so open...
about 39 or 40 might have been right. Hence, I fly with about 3 turns of
vernier mixture pulled at all times, since the mixture is clearly too rich
otherwise. I advise cautious experimentation to get it just right; it's not
that hard to pull the cowl and disassemble the carb several times, right?
-Bill B
O-320 E2D in RV-6A 85 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
I looked in my notes and found that the factory jets range from a #44 to a
#39. My notes also show that for the proper mixture range I have been going
with the following: 150HP a #38, #37, or #36 For a 160HP a #36, #35, or
#34 drill bits. Remember to start with the smallest size and try that then
enlarge. At full power on ground you should get about a 125 to 150 degree
rise.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT readings
>
>
> << The lean mixture problem can be solved by drilling out the main jet. I
> think it is a #30 drill bit to begin with and just drillit one size
bigger.
> >>
>
>
> Odds are you will find the main jet is #43 drill size. Several of us have
> drilled out to as large as #37 to correct lean mixture. I jumped straight
to
> this size to save steps, and have since wished my jet were not so open...
> about 39 or 40 might have been right. Hence, I fly with about 3 turns of
> vernier mixture pulled at all times, since the mixture is clearly too rich
> otherwise. I advise cautious experimentation to get it just right; it's
not
> that hard to pull the cowl and disassemble the carb several times, right?
>
> -Bill B
> O-320 E2D in RV-6A 85 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Adv: Accept CREDIT CARDS Online! |
This is a one-time mailing only! You won't receive mail from us again.
You may still request removal from our list by calling 1-888-429-2141.
ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS ONLINE!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Hi All...
>
>Are there any other RV-8A builder's web sites out there besides Bill
>Pagan's
>and mine? I would like to see more pictures of the building progress on an
>8A...
Yeah, check out:
www.trainingwheel.com
***RIMSHOT***
HAHAHA!!! OK...kidding!!! don't shoot! *ducks under desk*
Sorry, just couldn't resist, especially after just returning from getting
checked out in a -8 and didn't even once end up in the weeds. Of course, we
were at a former Navy airbase with runways big enough to land the Space
Shuttle.....but...you get my point. *grinnin*
Keep up the good work, fellow RV-building-website slingin' gurus.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
rigging flaps, fitting wingtips, then another thousand small details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel primer components |
OK, I see where you're coming from; but what I'm curious about is whether or
not the fuel is sprayed by the #60 orfice. Seems to me that fuel would
definitely pool by a larger orfice; IMHO, I think the small orfice sprays
the fuel at the piston and it "spatters" over the inside of the open bore of
the cylinder--thus, you have fuel spread out over a wider area in which it
could vaporize and combust, promoting an easier start.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
For priming purposes you dont need to worry about the size of the orfice in
the end of the fitting. Since the engine is not running as you are priming
and that priming is mainly for starting the engine only the orfice size
doesn't matter. Usually you will find most of you primer line failures due
to the orfice being cloged and the pressure usually helps with cracking the
copper flared tube fitting....along with vibration. you can also only shove
so much fuel thru the 1/8" copper line and unless you pump, pump, and over
pump the primer it will be just fine. BTW the small orfice in a stock
primer system is a #60 drill bit. The small size was thought up long ago as
a safety item so if you got leak by the primer your engine wouldn't run in
an over rich condition. Later they found that it would be pretty hard to
get the engine that rich thru the 1/8" lines.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
>
> Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
> proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much
fuel
> entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
properly
> . I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
human
> hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
pressure
> orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer
orfice
> fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
thread
> side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
> other......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gascolator remote drain |
>
> I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
> From the 'optional' location that the plans show, it would seem that in
> order to drain the gascolator, I would need a 'remote pull to drain'
> cable -- similar to the Cessna system.
>
In my RV-6, I mounted the gascolator as low as practicable on the firewall
(left side). I removed the drain fitting from the gascolator and replaced
it with the following 1/8" NPT fittings: nipple, 45 degree ell, nipple,
sleeve, quick drain valve (like those on the bottom of the fuel tanks).
The gascolator bowl height and orientation was adjusted such that the
bottom of the quick drain valve is flush with and perpendicular to the
inside of the cowl. I then drilled a 3/4" hole in the cowl under the
quick drain valve. With this arrangement, it is just as easy to drain
fuel from the gascolator as it is from the fuel tanks. (The fuel boost
pump must be on, however.)
I drain fuel from the gascolator before every flight, but I have never
found any water or debris in the fuel. I don't know if this means that I
have been lucky so far, or if it means that a fuel strainer is not
necessary.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 445 hrs
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Squeezer |
In a message dated 11/8/99 10:25:05 AM Central Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<<
I just bought the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery and was playing around
with it this past weekend. I'm a little confused as to how to put the dies
in the yoke. When I place a die on the part that moves when you press the
lever, it falls off after the plunger retracts. I know I'm an idiot but
what am I doing wrong here? Did I forget to order something? Any help
would be appreciated!
>>
The part that the die goes into is adjustable. It works like a jack screw.
Make sure it is far enough up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Squeezer |
If the pneumatic ram (the part that moves) moves below the edge of the
hole in the yoke, it might pop the die off when it retracts...I own a
pneumatic squeezer and while it's a, uh, gas, you can also screw things
up with it in a heart beat...if you have not also purchased the
adjustable set holder (Avery part 274), I'd recommend it...otherwise you
have to shim your dies with washers...a pain in the you know what...
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
HS and VS done...on the rudder
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic Squeezer
>
> I just bought the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery and was playing
around
> with it this past weekend. I'm a little confused as to how to put the
dies
> in the yoke. When I place a die on the part that moves when you press
the
> lever, it falls off after the plunger retracts. I know I'm an idiot
but
> what am I doing wrong here? Did I forget to order something? Any
help
> would be appreciated!
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
---
>
---
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Emp. Fairing Weight |
For those considering making your own empenage fairing, I thought I'd pass
along my results. For my RV-6, the Van's fairing did not fit the LE of the
HS. It was also heavy. So I used the Bob Skinner's method of using the
Van's part as a mold.
I made the "base" from only ply of 5.7 oz. bidirectional fiberglass cloth
and topped with one ply of 1.5 oz. satin weave cloth to fill the weave of
the 5.7 oz. cloth. I always use epoxy resin.
The base was trimmed with scissors in front to fit the LE of the HS and
taped down with electrical tape around the edges, about 1/16" onto the
"base." I then layed up two plies of 5.7 oz. bid, overlapping around the
front of the fairing. I also put an extra ply around the edges, about a 1"
strip. Also, the 1.5 oz. ply was used on top to fill the weave. I extended
the fairing underneaththe HS to the rear. A small fillet formed the upper
edge underneath the HS. After curing & before removing, it was drilled to
the airframe. Black dots on the rivets before layup allows you to miss the
rivets.
After removal, it was trimmed, sanded and filled with West 410 microlight.
Sanded & filled until smooth. About 3 or 4 iterations to get it nice.
Finished product weighs 1.0 # vs. 1.75 # for Van's fairing. Took me Sunday
through Saturday to make, about 20 hrs. labor. I think it is worthwhile,
looks better to me having the fairing wrap underneath.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 I think I have made all the parts. Now ready to paint?
The fairing was removed, trimmed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
The fuel is sprayed behind the valve not directly into the cylinder bore so
the more fuel in this instance would be better. That stuff evaporates
pretty quickly.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 12:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
> OK, I see where you're coming from; but what I'm curious about is whether
or
> not the fuel is sprayed by the #60 orfice. Seems to me that fuel would
> definitely pool by a larger orfice; IMHO, I think the small orfice sprays
> the fuel at the piston and it "spatters" over the inside of the open bore
of
> the cylinder--thus, you have fuel spread out over a wider area in which it
> could vaporize and combust, promoting an easier start.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
>
> For priming purposes you dont need to worry about the size of the orfice
in
> the end of the fitting. Since the engine is not running as you are
priming
> and that priming is mainly for starting the engine only the orfice size
> doesn't matter. Usually you will find most of you primer line failures
due
> to the orfice being cloged and the pressure usually helps with cracking
the
> copper flared tube fitting....along with vibration. you can also only
shove
> so much fuel thru the 1/8" copper line and unless you pump, pump, and
over
> pump the primer it will be just fine. BTW the small orfice in a stock
> primer system is a #60 drill bit. The small size was thought up long ago
as
> a safety item so if you got leak by the primer your engine wouldn't run in
> an over rich condition. Later they found that it would be pretty hard to
> get the engine that rich thru the 1/8" lines.
> **** Bryan E. Files ****
> Ever Fly Maintenance
> Palmer, Alaska
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:59 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
>
> >
> >
> > Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has
the
> > proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to
much
> fuel
> > entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
> properly
> > . I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
> human
> > hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
> pressure
> > orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer
> orfice
> > fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
> thread
> > side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
> > other......
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N58DM |
| From: | Lawrence J Greeno <greenrv(at)juno.com> |
David,
CONGRATULATIONS - it was very thrilling to actually be there to see that
flight, and the second - I by chance just happened to be in the area and
stopped by to see how you were coming along. I also wanted to inquire
about engines. What a delightful surprise and inspiration you provided
for me to keep at it.
Your report was very much appreciated also. I have digital photos (4) of
your craft with Alan getting ready for flight #2. Let me know if you are
interested and I'll forward them on.
Best regards,
Larry Greeno - greenrv(at)juno.com
24 Gilead Hill Road, N.Chili, NY 14514
716-594-0883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Storage & Charging ( Elect Bob ) |
>
>
>Bob, what is the correct charge-ing procedure for the RG's ? Reading
these two
>posts seem to leave the builder in a catch 22. Trickle is bad....but every 90
>days fry it ?? How do I correctly charge on the 90 day cycle ??? giving that
>most builders have a 2 amp / 6 amp, sorta dumb, cheep auto charger at
>home/hanger......
>
Nope . . . it's really hard to FRY one of these critters
in a few hours. Most "automatic" automotive chargers will
charge the battery just fine . . . even if their automatic
mode leaves something to be desired, the few hours it takes
to to a maintenance top-off won't hurt 'em.
It's leaving ill-designed chargers hooked to them for DAYS
that needs to be avoided. These are not fragile batteries.
You can STUFF energy back into a seriously discharged RG
battery at hundreds of amps . . . as long as the vast majority
of electrons you're stuffing in change chemistry in good ways
and don't boil off water or overheat it. This happens very
efficiently in the RG battery because it's internal impedance
is so very low (read efficient). However, once the battery
IS charged, there's no place for excess electrons to go except
to do mischief . . like convert the tiny amount of water they
contain into gasses and perhaps vent them overboard. That's
what happens with a continuous "trickle" charge.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
Hi,
The fitting I think you are refering to is an AN816-2D. At least this is the
fitting recommended on pg 173 of "Firewall Forward" It has an internal diameter
of
.055". Now that's about 25 times the diameter of a human hair. Is there a
different fitting with a smaller i.d.?
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
> proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much fuel
> entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered properly
> . I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick human
> hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf. pressure
> orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer orfice
> fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe thread
> side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
> other......
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer help - Thanks |
Thanks to everyone who replied to my inquiry regarding the pneumatic
squeezer. Avery said that they should have caught the fact that I ordered
the 4" yoke. They said they should have advised me that I would need the
longer plunger. They apologized and are sending me a new plunger. They
charged me for it but are paying the shipping. I think that's pretty fair.
Good people.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Emp. Fairing Weight |
Rick and all,
That's a good post Rick. I did the same thing and came up with similar results.
The one thing I would recommend doing different would be to use "peel ply" on the
first build up of the 5.7 oz/sq/yd bid and omit the 1.5 bid. By using the
peel ply, the weave is filled and you don't need to sand the first layer prior
to the application of the second build up of glass.
Epoxies form a waxy top layer after curing that should be sanded off before any
additional bonding or layups. By using peel ply, you don't need to prep the
surface before bonding, as long as you bond within 8 hrs of pulling the peel ply
off. Should you take longer than the 8 hours, it's easy to sand with 180 to
roughen up the surface.
That's the procedure we use on our composite parts in the shop here at AeroVironment. (See www.aeroviornment.com for some of the fun things we do around here). I work on the unmanned solar powered aircraft projects. Lot's of composite stuff in those things.
That's why I'm building a metal airplane :-)
Sincerely,
Laird RV-6
SoCal wiring panel
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Nov 8, 1999 3:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Emp. Fairing Weight
For those considering making your own empenage fairing, I thought I'd pass
along my results. For my RV-6, the Van's fairing did not fit the LE of the
HS. It was also heavy. So I used the Bob Skinner's method of using the
Van's part as a mold.
I made the "base" from only ply of 5.7 oz. bidirectional fiberglass cloth
and topped with one ply of 1.5 oz. satin weave cloth to fill the weave of
the 5.7 oz. cloth. I always use epoxy resin.
The base was trimmed with scissors in front to fit the LE of the HS and
taped down with electrical tape around the edges, about 1/16" onto the
"base." I then layed up two plies of 5.7 oz. bid, overlapping around the
front of the fairing. I also put an extra ply around the edges, about a 1"
strip. Also, the 1.5 oz. ply was used on top to fill the weave. I extended
the fairing underneaththe HS to the rear. A small fillet formed the upper
edge underneath the HS. After curing & before removing, it was drilled to
the airframe. Black dots on the rivets before layup allows you to miss the
rivets.
After removal, it was trimmed, sanded and filled with West 410 microlight.
Sanded & filled until smooth. About 3 or 4 iterations to get it nice.
Finished product weighs 1.0 # vs. 1.75 # for Van's fairing. Took me Sunday
through Saturday to make, about 20 hrs. labor. I think it is worthwhile,
looks better to me having the fairing wrap underneath.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 I think I have made all the parts. Now ready to paint?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: U620 parts on the 6A |
> > On the 6A, there is a stack of parts which support the lower cowl
> > behind
> > the nose gear and fill the slot needed for the nose gear. Van has a
> > clever
> > design with the cowl hinge pins locking the cover plate in place. I
> > am
> > wondering what the experience is with this method. My gut tells me
> > that it
> > would be better if this cover plate was clamped against the lower
> > cowl with
> > something like screws, rather than the somewhat loose method if
> > rotating it
> > in place and locking it with the hinge pins. Any experience out
> > there
> > regarding this?
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> >
> >
> I think you are seeing something incorrectly on that drawing.
> The cover plate is held on with 2 screws, and it does capture the cowl.
> The only thing related to hinge pins is that they both protrude down
> through holes in the cover plate to safety/capture the cowl bottom
> firewall hinge pins.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
Thanks, Scott. Actually, I believe that I am understanding the
drawings/plans correctly. The two AN bolts which hold the U621 part on are
not tightened against the plates, but are threaded through the riveted
stack and are secured with a "jam" nut. My original question is if this
small amount of play in these parts causes them to beat the cowl up in this
area next to the exhaust.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Snow <marksnow(at)cavemen.net> |
| Subject: | Sender: owner-rv-list-server |
Listers,
I have some misc. RV tools for sale. E-mail me off list for description and
price.
Mark Snow
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: R-410 to rudder horn rivets |
Listers, thanks for the help! Lots of good ideas. Some of them wouldn't
work on the new 410 piece since it doesn't allow access from the side like
the old one did. I looked in my Harbor Freight catalog, but didn't find any
machine squares(never heard of one of those). I looked at everything in my
garage and house as a potential bucking bar, but no luck. I believe I'll do
what Mark from TN did and use AN3 bolts. When I build the next plane, I'll
be a little more careful and set these rivets while I can still get to
them:-) Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
Troy Black
-8 rudder(making yawing noises)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure fittings |
Listers -
I've got a real head scratcher. I am trying to hook up my oil pressure line
on my 0-360 A4M and the hole in the engine where the oil line fitting is
supposed to go (1/8" pipe thread) is right under the upper right engine
mount . I cannot go straight in as it hits the rubber bisket on the mount.
A 90 degree fitting will not rotate into the hole as the outer end hits the
block. I can get a brass 90 degree fitting to fit after I remove the mount
biskets on that corner of the mount but then the flare will be at 45
degrees. I had a Aviation mechanic tell me that I could use a 1/8" copper
line with a compression sleeve as long as I put a couple of 2" loops in the
line to take care of vibration. This looks like a viable solution but I am
wondering how you would firesleeve 1/8" copper line ( all fuel & oil lines
are required to be firesleeved in Canada).
I would appreciate any advice that will help me to get back to an aviation
solution.
Thanks ,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard McBride <rickrv8(at)qwestinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360C1E6 don't do this |
Try ENPART located at the Lancaster, TX airport. I don't have their number at
hand but if you need I can get it for you. I have used them for the same
purpose. They were very helpful and reasonably priced.
Rick McBride
80027
rickrv8(at)qwestinternet.net
dane3(at)attglobal.net wrote:
>
> Warning:
> When buying a used engine such as a rear breathing IO-360C1E6 and having the
> front boss area of the airbox opened and studs installed for the servo,
> check to make sure it does not hit your nose wheel socket. I have learned
> the hard way that it does. I would like to thank Mr. Vetterman for telling
> me this before he made my exhaust to fit the IO-360 C1E6. Thank You.
> Evidently I am not the first to try this in a RV8a.
>
> So with the help of Mr. Brian Costello (Field/Tech Specialist for Lycoming)
> he has informed me I need a
> 74384 Sump (old number was LW-13864) List price $ 3247.95 intake tubes not
> included. So does anyone know any aircraft boneyards or engine rebuilders I
> can hunt around for a sump and intake tubes ? Or does anyone have an extra
> sump off of a IO-360-A series engine. (Brian Costello was very helpful and
> said he had nothing to do with the pricing)
>
> Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated, Thank You
>
> Dane Sheahen
> Sumpless in Chicago
> dane3(at)ibm.net
> RV8a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | avionics wire harnesses |
I just got a quote of $2000.00 to make harnesses for my RV-6A radio
stack ! The stack consists of IIMorrow SL60,SL30,SL70,MX20 and SL10M audio
panal !! Since the harnesses require only a 1 week lead time the guy doing
them must charge a $100.00 an hour !!!!! Seems like a good price for
Avionics is followed by the high price of harnesses. Does anybody know of a
good place to shop for both !
Thanks Tom RV-6A in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] They said it couldn't be done |
This post didn't draw much reaction on the rv8list. I'm considering
following as Dane, as I'll be at this same stage pretty soon. Anyone see
any reason NOT to do this? It makes a lot of sense to me, but I have to
think twice before I deviate from Van's and George's instruction.
Input anyone?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 10:35 PM
> To: rv8list(at)onelist.com
> Subject: [rv8list] They said it couldn't be done
>
>
> From: danep19(at)idt.net
>
> Just finished closing my wings with the very capable help of Dave
> Hamilton
> (RV80001). Never having been one to follow instructions very
> well I put the
> bottom skin on first. This allowed me to squeeze on the bottom
> row of rivets
> for the top skin because of the way the Z channel bends. I
> didnt have to do
> ANY pealing back of the skin and riveted it all up by reaching
> through the
> access holes with a bucking bar. Now, keep in mind that I have
> long skinny arms
> and it wasnt at all easy, but all in all it turned out real
> nice. The only
> rivets I had to Pop were two on each Aileron Gap Seal that I just
> couldnt
> reach. If you havent put your skins on you might want to
> consider this method.
> The bruises on my arms should heal up any day now.
>
>
> Dane Patterson
> 80460
>
> --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
>
> Choose from a wide selection of high-quality newsletters at ONElist.
> For details on ONElist's PROS&PUNDITS newsletters, click below.
> Click Here
>
> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits. For
> access please send your name and builder number to moejoe3(at)home.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyhars(at)attglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator remote drain |
Mark: I hope what I am about to say don't start a long thread. My last
RV-6, which was fuel injected. I ran the fuel line straight down from the
selector to the electric pump, through the firewall at the right of the
battery. On the engine side I ran it to the right with a 90 degree bulkhead
fitting to a cessna style strainer with a drain cable on the top side of
the strainer. This was located below the oil door and the fuel would drain
out the lower cowl. It worked very well, the thing I do not understand why
we run the fuel from the selector all the way back to the left side of the
cockpit and through the firewall. The inlet to Engine fuel pump is on the
right side of the engine so why do we run the fuel line on the left. Just
one mans opinion.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB-Tail work.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator remote drain
<Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
>
> >
> > I am trying to find the best way to set up a gascolator on my firewall.
> > From the 'optional' location that the plans show, it would seem that in
> > order to drain the gascolator, I would need a 'remote pull to drain'
> > cable -- similar to the Cessna system.
> >
>
> In my RV-6, I mounted the gascolator as low as practicable on the firewall
> (left side). I removed the drain fitting from the gascolator and replaced
> it with the following 1/8" NPT fittings: nipple, 45 degree ell, nipple,
> sleeve, quick drain valve (like those on the bottom of the fuel tanks).
> The gascolator bowl height and orientation was adjusted such that the
> bottom of the quick drain valve is flush with and perpendicular to the
> inside of the cowl. I then drilled a 3/4" hole in the cowl under the
> quick drain valve. With this arrangement, it is just as easy to drain
> fuel from the gascolator as it is from the fuel tanks. (The fuel boost
> pump must be on, however.)
>
> I drain fuel from the gascolator before every flight, but I have never
> found any water or debris in the fuel. I don't know if this means that I
> have been lucky so far, or if it means that a fuel strainer is not
> necessary.
>
> Mark Nielsen
> RV-6, 445 hrs
> Green Bay, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360C1E6 don't do this |
Forget the bone yards, been there, done that, save yourself some time and
money, Give Monty Barrette a call at 918-835-1089, he supplied me with a
sump, pipes, gaskets and nuts with studs for a fraction of the cost any bone
yard jockey could scrounge up, and all were if perfect condition ready for
paint. He also called Larry Vetteman to make sure that he would make up the
right exhaust pipes for it. Now that's what I call service, and at a very
affordable price from both Monty & Larry.
Gil, 80628, almost ready for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? |
After what seemed like months of preparation I was finally able to spray some
paint on my plane. I primed the fuselage and all control surfaces and then
sealed the primer with some really expensive sealer. Things where looking up
until I sprayed the color coat on the control surfaces. The paint flows out so
nice with no orange peel except around the dimpled rivets where it flows
totally out of the dimple around the rivet and leaves a dark gray ring against
the white surface. Oh how ugly. Well I seem to remember a recent post about
paint not bridging the ring around the rivet. Archive search here I come. Turns
out the answer is simple. Use a high build primer and spray the rivet lines and
then block sand 99% of the primer off. Well, I'm here to tell you that this is
a lot of work. Makes filling the pinholes in the cowl look like child's play.
The worst part of the hole learning experience is that my rudder and ailerons
now need to be stripped, a process I am not looking forward to. Oh well, this
is a learning experience.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - Dreading stripping paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need drill press |
There are some reasonable Chinese bench Drill presses with motors from
places like Harbor Freight. You probably have a local place that sells
this stuff. It is heavy cast iron. Just check the spindle for runout and
see if the table is at right angles to the spindle. Slower is better when
drilling steel, but aluminum faster speeds are o.k. Clamp down material
being drilled. They also have cheap cast iron drill press vices that are
reasonable.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 1:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need drill press
>
>Anyone know a good place to get a drill press? I need to do a little more
>precision work than the air drill is allowing me.
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A, side by side version....... |
Anybody noticed that accordingto the latest kit planes the RV-8A is the
'side by side', tri-gear version of the RV-8 ??
Hmmmm..
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairing Weight |
> Epoxies form a waxy top layer after curing that should be sanded off
before any additional bonding or layups
Is this true? I thought only polyester resins did this.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? |
On 8 Nov 99, at 19:18, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> After what seemed like months of preparation I was finally able to spray
> some paint on my plane. I primed the fuselage and all control surfaces and
> then sealed the primer with some really expensive sealer. Things where
> looking up until I sprayed the color coat on the control surfaces. The
> paint flows out so nice with no orange peel except around the dimpled
> rivets where it flows totally out of the dimple around the rivet and
> leaves a dark gray ring against the white surface. Oh how ugly. Well I
> seem to remember a recent post about paint not bridging the ring around
> the rivet. Archive search here I come. Turns out the answer is simple. Use
> a high build primer and spray the rivet lines and then block sand 99% of
> the primer off. Well, I'm here to tell you that this is a lot of work.
> Makes filling the pinholes in the cowl look like child's play. The worst
> part of the hole learning experience is that my rudder and ailerons now
> need to be stripped, a process I am not looking forward to. Oh well, this
> is a learning experience.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A - Dreading stripping paint.
Some other lessons learned are at the end of my web page on painting.
My experience was with Imron, but the lessons, with adaptations,
may apply to your situation:
Other Lessons learned: DuPont's Imron application instructions (1
medium coat, 10 minute flash, 1 heavy coat) didn't work too well for
covering dimpled rivets. DuPont tech support had a better suggestion,
which worked well: two medium coats rather than one, flash time of 25
minutes or more rather than 10 minutes, THEN the heavy coat. This
provides much better rivet coverage. The longer flash time allows a
heavier intermediate coats without causing sagging.
Tim Lewis
Goin to the airport this weekend (I hope, I hope, I hope)
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Things to ponder |
Hi guys
I have a so far hypothetical question.
If somebody breaks into my garage and besides stealing my tools, also
damages my airplane-to-be, would that be considered a federal offence
just like it would be if it were a completed airplane on the airport ??
would it matter if it had :
a. no reg so far
b. N number reserved
c. N number assigned but no sign off from a DAR/FAA
d. Be just a wing and a tail or so.
Hasn't happend yet but am interested just the same.
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
Hi listers,
Does anyone know weather a longer throttle arm for the MA4 curburator is
available?
I would like to have a less sensitive throttle control for those small power
changes.....
cheers
Karl RV6AQ 21 hours
KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA
ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
In a message dated 11/8/99 6:57:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
proper orifice for a primer fitting. >>
Actually, be 110% certain that it is not a blue fitting. The atomizing
fittings, cone unions and nuts are brass.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
In a message dated 11/8/99 7:18:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com writes:
<< I know you can make these fittings up, but rather than hassle with it I
would rather work with the real thing. I need to replace the standard
An4-1/8 npt fittings I have right now on my engine...I looked in ac$ and
wick's catalogs and didn't find them. Where can I order these fittings from?
>>
ACS (new catalog pg 106) and Wicks (new catalog pg 177). Hint: Wicks is
much cheaper.
You will need one AN4022-1 discharge fitting, one AN800-2 cone union and one
AN805-2 nut for each cylinder you intend to plumb for the primer.
All other fittings for your system are standard a/c blue anodized flare
types. The issue of electric solenoid vs plunger you will have to decide.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> After what seemed like months of preparation I was finally able to
> spray some
> paint on my plane. I primed the fuselage and all control surfaces
> and then
> sealed the primer with some really expensive sealer. Things where
> looking up
> until I sprayed the color coat on the control surfaces. The paint
> flows out so
> nice with no orange peel except around the dimpled rivets where it
> flows
> totally out of the dimple around the rivet and leaves a dark gray
> ring against
> the white surface. Oh how ugly. Well I seem to remember a recent
> post about
> paint not bridging the ring around the rivet.
One thing you can do to alleviate the problem is to use a fisheye reducer
additive in your paint.
It helps reduce the surface tension and lets the paint bridge acrossed
these types of voids.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested
> in
> anyone else's experience.
>
> RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no
> change
> to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm
> to
> full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted
> for a
> richer mixture? I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
> mixture is too lean in the climb. Also noticed that fuel drips out
> of
> the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down,
> comes
> out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the ventury, is this
> normal?
>
I don't know if the fuel drips would be normal since it is typical
practice to shut the engine down by pulling the mixture to cutoff, which
should cut most all fuel flow from the carb. unless you have a sinking
float or leaking needle valve as others have suggested.
Your mixture does sound way to lean. flying at 8000 ft you should be able
to see at least 150 deg change between full rich and lean/peak. 225 -
250 spread would be more desirable.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure fittings |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Listers -
>
> I've got a real head scratcher. I am trying to hook up my oil
> pressure line
> on my 0-360 A4M and the hole in the engine where the oil line
> fitting is
> supposed to go (1/8" pipe thread) is right under the upper right
> engine
> mount . I cannot go straight in as it hits the rubber bisket on the
> mount.
> A 90 degree fitting will not rotate into the hole as the outer end
> hits the
> block. I can get a brass 90 degree fitting to fit after I remove the
> mount
> biskets on that corner of the mount but then the flare will be at 45
> degrees. I had a Aviation mechanic tell me that I could use a 1/8"
> copper
> line with a compression sleeve as long as I put a couple of 2"
> loops in the
> line to take care of vibration. This looks like a viable solution
> but I am
> wondering how you would firesleeve 1/8" copper line ( all fuel & oil
> lines
> are required to be firesleeved in Canada).
>
This is normal for all Locoing (except new ones in the last few years
they have added a second port that comes straight out the back of the
accessory case. For all others we use a 45 deg AN fitting Installed
before mounting the engine on the motor mount). This should be a
restrictor fitting that will limit oil loss if the fitting brakes off or
the line fails. With the fitting rotated to the proper orientation it
has just enough clearance from the motor mount. The engine has very
little movement at this point so close to the rubber mount it self.
I highly recommend that you do not use copper line and compression
fittings. A failure of this line would definitely ruin your day.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: U620 parts on the 6A |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> > > On the 6A, there is a stack of parts which support the lower
> cowl
> > > behind
> > > the nose gear and fill the slot needed for the nose gear. Van
> has a
> > > clever
> > > design with the cowl hinge pins locking the cover plate in
> place. I
> > > am
> > > wondering what the experience is with this method. My gut tells
> me
> > > that it
> > > would be better if this cover plate was clamped against the
> lower
> > > cowl with
> > > something like screws, rather than the somewhat loose method if
> > > rotating it
> > > in place and locking it with the hinge pins. Any experience out
>
> > > there
> > > regarding this?
> > >
> > > Alex Peterson
> > > Maple Grove, MN
> > >
> > >
> > I think you are seeing something incorrectly on that drawing.
> > The cover plate is held on with 2 screws, and it does capture the
> cowl.
> > The only thing related to hinge pins is that they both protrude
> down
> > through holes in the cover plate to safety/capture the cowl bottom
> > firewall hinge pins.
> >
> >
> > Scott McDaniels
>
> Thanks, Scott. Actually, I believe that I am understanding the
> drawings/plans correctly. The two AN bolts which hold the U621 part
> on are
> not tightened against the plates, but are threaded through the
> riveted
> stack and are secured with a "jam" nut. My original question is if
> this
> small amount of play in these parts causes them to beat the cowl up
> in this
> area next to the exhaust.
>
> Alex Peterson
>
I guess I will have to check the drawings tomorrow and see if someone
changed things.
AN bolts have never been spec'ed to hold on this cover.
It has always been AN526-8R8 screws through the cover and sandwitch of
plates into K1000-08 plate nuts on the inside. The only AN bolts/nuts
were the two that attach the U-620 to the motor mount through the bottom
gusset of the gear leg socket. The screw holes were shown slotted, with
one hole oversized at the end of the slot so that with the screws
loosened you could slide the plate, remove it from one screw, and pivot
it around the other one while you un-capture the cowl bottom.
Most builders just remove both screws and then remove the plate.
So, the way it was orig. designed the plate does attach tightly but it
still doesn't clamp tightly on this portion of the cowl.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | AIRPORT BUMPER STICKERS |
Bumper stickers seen at local airports:
1. I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it. I'm building
my own airplane!
2. If ignorance is bliss, you must be really happy. Now is the time to
make your contribution.
3. Yes, Jesus is coming ... everyone look busy. Start pounding rivets!
4. And so my therapist said, "You need a hobby" so here I am at the airport!
5. I used to have a handle on life, but it broke. So I ordered a Zenith kit.
6. Don't take life too seriously, you won't get out alive. So make your
contribution really big!
7. WANTED: Meaningful overnight relationship. Need to be able to read plans.
8. You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me. And they say
the Kolb is the only way to fly!
9. BEER: It's not just for breakfast anymore. (This one was on Chet's car)
10. I got a gun for my wife, best trade I ever made. Now I can buy a
Rocket kit without consulting her.
11. So you're a feminist...Isn't that cute! (No comment!)
12. Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder. No wonder so many RV's have
been completed!
13. Earth is the insane asylum for the universe. And airports are where
they keep the really hard cases!
14. To all you virgins..thanks for nothing. Unlesss you are a good bucker!
15. I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing. (On my bumper)
16. Earth first...we'll mine the other planets later.
17. How can I be overdrawn, I still have checks! (So write one to Matronics!)
18. I'm just driving this way to piss you off. (At least until you make
your contribution!)
19. Out of my mind. Back in five minutes. Out in my shop.....back in 2
years.
20. Keep honking, I'm reloading.
21. Sometimes I wake up grumpy; other times I let him sleep. (On wifes car)
22. I want to die in my sleep like my grandfather ... not screaming and
yelling like the passengers in his car. (Who didn't make a contribution!)
23. God must love stupid people, he made so many. Good thing none that I
know are pilots.
24. The gene pool could use a little chlorine.
25. Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine or my kit supplier!
26. It IS as BAD as you think, and they ARE out to get you. And you will
contribute to Matronics!
27. I took an IQ test and the results were negative. So I sent a check for
a (Choose one: RV, Kolb, Zenith, Rocket) kit. Or substitute : "So I bought
a YAK"
28. It's lonely at the top, but you eat better and fly faster!
29. Give me ambiguity or give me something else. But PLEASE, no plastic
airplanes!
30. We are born naked, wet and hungry. Then things get worse. We get into
aviation!
31. A dirty mind is a terrible thing to waste. It could be spending hours
pouring over plans!
32. Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. Well, like
everyone else in aviation anyway!
33. Lottery: A tax on people who are bad at math. Like all pilots who are
also bad at finance too!
34. Very funny, Scotty. Now beam down my clothes.
35. Consciousness: that annoying time between mental lapses and another
work session on "the kit"!
36. Be nice to your kids. They'll choose your nursing home. So why leave
them anything...send it to Matronics.
37. 3 kinds of people: those who can count & those who can't. Oh yea, and
those who build and those why buy finished, and those who choose tail
draggers and those who choose nose draggers, and, and ..........
38. Ever stop to think, and forget to start again? Thats when it's time to
deburr!
39. Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice Plane!' with a straight face to a
spamcan owner just before you open the hanger door where your RV is kept!
40. So many idiots, so few clearances for take-off.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
If you would just make your contribution you could put a stop to all this
foolishness! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
me do it)
Both Brian and I had the exact problem when we initially installed our
brake systems two years ago. Ken Scott insisted he had never heard of that
problem before, that it must be something I was doing wrong. Yes, some
.025 shims will work fine, and yes, you will need them again when you
finally need new pads. I will also predict that if you have the old style
wheel pants and you used the indents in the pant to locate the axle (as
they were intended) that when you buy new tires the left pant won't fit.
(never had that problem before, must be the way you built it) :=) kevin
-6A 450hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure fittings |
dgmurray wrote:
>
> Listers -
>
> I've got a real head scratcher. I am trying to hook up my oil pressure line
> on my 0-360 A4M and the hole in the engine where the oil line fitting is
> supposed to go (1/8" pipe thread) is right under the upper right engine
> mount . I cannot go straight in as it hits the rubber bisket on the mount.
> A 90 degree fitting will not rotate into the hole as the outer end hits the
> block. I can get a brass 90 degree fitting to fit after I remove the mount
> biskets on that corner of the mount but then the flare will be at 45
> degrees.
This is one of those fittings that has to be installed prior to hanging the
engine on the mount. The normal fitting is a AN823-4 (steel) or -3 45 degree
fitting with 37 degree flare.
> I had a Aviation mechanic tell me that I could use a 1/8" copper
> line with a compression sleeve as long as I put a couple of 2" loops in the
> line to take care of vibration. This looks like a viable solution but I am
> wondering how you would firesleeve 1/8" copper line ( all fuel & oil lines
> are required to be firesleeved in Canada).
I would shy away from copper line for this application. Copper work hardens from
the engine vibration and will fail (note I say will and not may) someday. Your
day will be ruined when this happens. Why take a chance, I would suggest using
aircraft hose (AE701-4 or -3) or NHRA approved racing hose such as Aeroquip's
AQP line with steel fittings.
Gary Zilik
>
>
> I would appreciate any advice that will help me to get back to an aviation
> solution.
>
> Thanks ,
>
> Doug Murray RV-6
> Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: avionics wire harnesses |
Call Aerotronics..they did a basic harness for me that consisted of my
GPS/COMM, Transponder. They wired them together, as well as provided all of
the leads for all the other avionics in my panel. It was $100. Obviously
if you wanted a complete harness between all of your units, it will go up
from there, but I would not think it would be $2000....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 1:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: avionics wire harnesses
>
> I just got a quote of $2000.00 to make harnesses for my RV-6A radio
>stack ! The stack consists of IIMorrow SL60,SL30,SL70,MX20 and SL10M audio
>panal !! Since the harnesses require only a 1 week lead time the guy doing
>them must charge a $100.00 an hour !!!!! Seems like a good price for
>Avionics is followed by the high price of harnesses. Does anybody know of a
>good place to shop for both !
> Thanks Tom RV-6A in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure fittings |
I have special flex hoses that are for cubs that work great.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: dgmurray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil Pressure fittings
>
> Listers -
>
> I've got a real head scratcher. I am trying to hook up my oil pressure
line
> on my 0-360 A4M and the hole in the engine where the oil line fitting is
> supposed to go (1/8" pipe thread) is right under the upper right engine
> mount . I cannot go straight in as it hits the rubber bisket on the
mount.
> A 90 degree fitting will not rotate into the hole as the outer end hits
the
> block. I can get a brass 90 degree fitting to fit after I remove the mount
> biskets on that corner of the mount but then the flare will be at 45
> degrees. I had a Aviation mechanic tell me that I could use a 1/8" copper
> line with a compression sleeve as long as I put a couple of 2" loops in
the
> line to take care of vibration. This looks like a viable solution but I am
> wondering how you would firesleeve 1/8" copper line ( all fuel & oil lines
> are required to be firesleeved in Canada).
>
> I would appreciate any advice that will help me to get back to an aviation
> solution.
>
> Thanks ,
>
> Doug Murray RV-6
> Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph E Zinkham <reagle(at)nauticom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: avionics wire harnesses |
Tom,
Contact avionikits.com, Dave Buckwalter, he quoted me $750.00 to do my King
radio
stack w/Northstar m3 app.and autopilot. That $2000.00 seems pretty steep. Dave
also reviewed my interconnection diagrams for $100.00.
I've been wondering if you made the jump into the world of builders since you
and Kathy
were out. Good luck!!!
Ralph Zinkham (N105RZ reserved)
Tom Ervin wrote:
>
> I just got a quote of $2000.00 to make harnesses for my RV-6A radio
> stack ! The stack consists of IIMorrow SL60,SL30,SL70,MX20 and SL10M audio
> panal !! Since the harnesses require only a 1 week lead time the guy doing
> them must charge a $100.00 an hour !!!!! Seems like a good price for
> Avionics is followed by the high price of harnesses. Does anybody know of a
> good place to shop for both !
> Thanks Tom RV-6A in Ohio
>
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
Scott
Would that be full power at 8000'?
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
> > I do not have a great range from full rich to peak EGT. Interested
> > in
> > anyone else's experience.
> >
> > RV6 with 320-D2J engine wood prop. Engine came out of a 172, no
> > change
> > to carb. I have only a 30 degree difference from full rich 2400 rpm
> > to
> > full lean 2400 rpm. I sthis normal or should the carb be rejetted
> > for a
> > richer mixture? I am concerned about exhaust valves burning if the
> > mixture is too lean in the climb. Also noticed that fuel drips out
> > of
> > the carb if the mixture is full rich and the engine is shut down,
> > comes
> > out of the brass fitting (spray bar?) in the ventury, is this
> > normal?
> >
> I don't know if the fuel drips would be normal since it is typical
> practice to shut the engine down by pulling the mixture to cutoff, which
> should cut most all fuel flow from the carb. unless you have a sinking
> float or leaking needle valve as others have suggested.
> Your mixture does sound way to lean. flying at 8000 ft you should be able
> to see at least 150 deg change between full rich and lean/peak. 225 -
> 250 spread would be more desirable.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things to ponder |
>I have a so far hypothetical question.
>
>If somebody breaks into my garage and besides stealing my tools, also
>damages my airplane-to-be, would that be considered a federal offence
>just like it would be if it were a completed airplane on the airport ??
>
>would it matter if it had :
>a. no reg so far
>b. N number reserved
>c. N number assigned but no sign off from a DAR/FAA
>d. Be just a wing and a tail or so.
>
>Hasn't happend yet but am interested just the same.
REALLY doubt it. If no airworthiness certificate, then there's no aviation
safety issue, which is the only reason the feds get involved in the first
place.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Scott
> Would that be full power at 8000'?
-
Yes and No.
At full throttle you should be able to get those #'s because the
enrichment valve is opened on the carb (so you have more leaning that can
be done) but even at a sightly reduced throttle setting you should still
be able to get at least 200 deg and 250 or more would not be uncommon
(leaned to peak egt). This would equate to about 1" - 1 1/4" of travel
on most mixture controls from full rich position (knob style, on a
quadrant it would be even more).
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
Yup, I changed my tires and promptly wore a hole in the top of my left
wheel pant. I had the old style one piece wheel pant and used the
indent as supplied to drill the axle hole.
chet
>
> Both Brian and I had the exact problem when we initially installed our
> brake systems two years ago. Ken Scott insisted he had never heard of that
> problem before, that it must be something I was doing wrong. Yes, some
> .025 shims will work fine, and yes, you will need them again when you
> finally need new pads. I will also predict that if you have the old style
> wheel pants and you used the indents in the pant to locate the axle (as
> they were intended) that when you buy new tires the left pant won't fit.
> (never had that problem before, must be the way you built it) :=) kevin
> -6A 450hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? |
Gary,
It's hard to diagnose paint problems remotely, but one factor which can
cause the problem you describe is surface preparation. I'm not familiar
with a primer system that needs to be sealed, like you describe. With the
polyurethane's that I use, I must apply the color within 24 hours of
applying the primer or the primer must be lightly sanded.
If anything is allowed to build up on the surface (e.g. dust, oil from your
fingers, etc), they will affect the flow out of the paint. After sanding, I
don surgical gloves and religiously wipe down the surface with enamel
reducer and a COTTON rag, then wipe it down with a tack cloth before
priming. From this point on, it stays in the paint booth and nothing
touches the part except paint.
The suggestions that Tim Lewis made to apply two medium coats with a longer
tack time in between will produce excellent results too. However, once the
first coat flows around a defect, the subsequent coats generally will not
fix the problem. Polyurethane is a little tricky but it's not that hard to
use. It does have a very low tolerance for prepping problems. Unlike base
enamels and lacquers, poly won't cover up these defects all the time.
Sometimes you get away with it, sometimes you don't.
To fix the problem, I would wet sand the part with 240 grit paper and begin
with the primer step again. Wipe the part down with a high quality enamel
reducer (expensive) to cleanse the part. Chances are that if the primer
covers the rivets well, the poly should flow out okay. Follow Tim's
instructions for coverage. Should work out okay. I know that Scott
McDaniels suggested using fisheye additive. That may work as well, but
unless you are a professional painter, I wouldn't recommend it. I don't
remember the reasons why my professional painter friend advised me to not
use it, but I've never needed it. That doesn't mean that it won't work
though.
Every time I've ever had a problem with flow out of poly paint, I traced it
to a surface defect caused my lack of proper preparation or surface
contamination that occurred after the primer was applied.
Hopes this helps.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting..........still"
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 9:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane?
>
>After what seemed like months of preparation I was finally able to spray
some
>paint on my plane. I primed the fuselage and all control surfaces and then
>sealed the primer with some really expensive sealer. Things where looking
up
>until I sprayed the color coat on the control surfaces. The paint flows out
so
>nice with no orange peel except around the dimpled rivets where it flows
>totally out of the dimple around the rivet and leaves a dark gray ring
against
>the white surface. Oh how ugly. Well I seem to remember a recent post about
>paint not bridging the ring around the rivet. Archive search here I come.
Turns
>out the answer is simple. Use a high build primer and spray the rivet lines
and
>then block sand 99% of the primer off. Well, I'm here to tell you that this
is
>a lot of work. Makes filling the pinholes in the cowl look like child's
play.
>The worst part of the hole learning experience is that my rudder and
ailerons
>now need to be stripped, a process I am not looking forward to. Oh well,
this
>is a learning experience.
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A - Dreading stripping paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
I have to take a moment to say how pleased I was to receive so many warm
welcomes in response to my introductory message yesterday. Not even one
hour had gone by after I sent the email before the responses started
coming in. Some with advice on various topics, some with tales of their
own progress to relate, but all with a welcome for the new guy.
I know I'm going to enjoy not only building and flying my RV, but being
a member of a great and supportive community of fellow builders and
pilots.
Warm Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
tail and wing kits on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] They said it couldn't be done |
Larry . . . I can't help, in that my QB kit has the wing skins pretty much
done (one bottom panel on each wing has to go on) . . . but . . . with the
tail I found if I did the top surfaces where I could reach in with the
bucking bar easier (i.e. 1st), they came out with better looking rivets
(smoother skin). That way if you are struggling with the last surface and
make a mistake, it is under the plane where no one but builder's at that
stage in the building process can see it ;-). That's my 2 cents.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8AQB working on wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: [rv8list] They said it couldn't be done
>
>This post didn't draw much reaction on the rv8list. I'm considering
>following as Dane, as I'll be at this same stage pretty soon. Anyone see
>any reason NOT to do this? It makes a lot of sense to me, but I have to
>think twice before I deviate from Van's and George's instruction.
>
>Input anyone?
>
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 10:35 PM
>> To: rv8list(at)onelist.com
>> Subject: [rv8list] They said it couldn't be done
>>
>>
>> From: danep19(at)idt.net
>>
>> Just finished closing my wings with the very capable help of Dave
>> Hamilton
>> (RV80001). Never having been one to follow instructions very
>> well I put the
>> bottom skin on first. This allowed me to squeeze on the bottom
>> row of rivets
>> for the top skin because of the way the Z channel bends. I
>> didnt have to do
>> ANY pealing back of the skin and riveted it all up by reaching
>> through the
>> access holes with a bucking bar. Now, keep in mind that I have
>> long skinny arms
>> and it wasnt at all easy, but all in all it turned out real
>> nice. The only
>> rivets I had to Pop were two on each Aileron Gap Seal that I just
>> couldnt
>> reach. If you havent put your skins on you might want to
>> consider this method.
>> The bruises on my arms should heal up any day now.
>>
>>
>> Dane Patterson
>> 80460
>>
>> --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
>>
>> Choose from a wide selection of high-quality newsletters at ONElist.
>> For details on ONElist's PROS&PUNDITS newsletters, click below.
>> Click Here
>>
>> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits. For
>> access please send your name and builder number to moejoe3(at)home.com
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Fred,
Thanks again for excellent food for thought.
Some times it's hard to see the big picture, when you're focus on an
individual task.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'RV-List'"
>Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:46:53 -0500
>
>
>
>Guys,
>
> Picture this: Low pressure weather system dumps heavy rain on RV parked
>outside.. Tennis ball on piper blade style pito tube fills with water due
>to
>heavy rain running down the underside of the wing. Then High weather system
>comes in, forcing the water out of the tennis ball into static system.
>After
>a couple of times of this, your VSI, Altimeter, and Airspeed gauges all
>have
>water in them.......AND NEED REPLACING.... Maybe that $20 Sporties cover
>was
>less expensive after all......
>
>Fred Stucklen
>N925RV RV-6A
>E. Windsor, Ct
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Yup, I changed my tires and promptly wore a hole in the top of my left
>wheel pant. I had the old style one piece wheel pant and used the
>indent as supplied to drill the axle hole.
>
>chet
Yep, me too. That is why I just changed to the two-piece pants. Had an
interferrence on the left pant. Used the indent to locate the axle hole.
Interesting how all of us happened to make the same building error on the
same side.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
> << I am working on mounting my oil cooler to the firewall on my RV-6.
My
> angle pieces along the top and bottom edges of the cooler pick up
> mounting points on the firewall diagonals. This setup seems rather
> rigid, however Van's says I MUST provide support for the front side of
> the cooler as well. But that's about all they have to say on the
> subject.
>
> How many pieces of what size angle should I run diagonally from the
> front bottom of the oil cooler to the firewall? >>
I was waiting for this thread to run its course to see what other
information might turn up. I am more than just curious. This is a safety
issue for me, as I am flying and my oil cooler is mounted on the firewall
with no such brace. I called Van's and Bill told me he was unaware that
this is necessary, but didn't know what the other guys have been telling
people.
So, do I need to do this brace? Has there been a case where an oil cooler
has failed, or is this just something somebody decided was necessary?
Scott Sawby RV 6A N341SS 280 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel primer components |
The prior poster from Alaska who stated that the orface wasn't really required
has some good points, for my engine I will be using the specified orfaces for
the primer circuit. I don't think they spray fuel like a GAMA injector does, I
think the plain drilled orface offers fluid resistance to the primer plunger
force and cat sprays fuel in the cylinders. I have known primer plungers to go
south and allow leakage....if I use the proper orfaces the bypass leakage will
be manageable (with throttle & mixture) untill repairs are made. All this said
with a 4 system primer & and a GEM Graphic engine Monitor and a essex plunger
primer as my subject.........No right or wrong here just shades of gray & most
assuredly opinions......
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com on 11/08/99 04:26:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel primer components
OK, I see where you're coming from; but what I'm curious about is whether or
not the fuel is sprayed by the #60 orfice. Seems to me that fuel would
definitely pool by a larger orfice; IMHO, I think the small orfice sprays
the fuel at the piston and it "spatters" over the inside of the open bore of
the cylinder--thus, you have fuel spread out over a wider area in which it
could vaporize and combust, promoting an easier start.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
For priming purposes you dont need to worry about the size of the orfice in
the end of the fitting. Since the engine is not running as you are priming
and that priming is mainly for starting the engine only the orfice size
doesn't matter. Usually you will find most of you primer line failures due
to the orfice being cloged and the pressure usually helps with cracking the
copper flared tube fitting....along with vibration. you can also only shove
so much fuel thru the 1/8" copper line and unless you pump, pump, and over
pump the primer it will be just fine. BTW the small orfice in a stock
primer system is a #60 drill bit. The small size was thought up long ago as
a safety item so if you got leak by the primer your engine wouldn't run in
an over rich condition. Later they found that it would be pretty hard to
get the engine that rich thru the 1/8" lines.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 4:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
>
>
> Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
> proper orfice for a primer fitting. If not then there will be way to much
fuel
> entering the cylinder and it will not be atomized or sprayed or metered
properly
> . I believe the proper orfice size is just about the diameter of a thick
human
> hair.......I know this is not scientific but when you compair a manf.
pressure
> orfice & and a fuel pressure orfice and a regular fitting to a primer
orfice
> fitting you will see the difference. The orface is usually on the pipe
thread
> side while ALL fittings have the standard 37.5 degree A/C fitting on the
> other......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
I believe it is older calipers with newer thicker disks.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: brake pads
>
>Subject: RV-List: Brake Pads
>
>
>I recently changed out the brake pads on my 6A. After reinstalling
>Rapco pads ordered from Avery I noticed that when the two bolts that
>hold the pad brackets in place are snugged the pads are binding and the
>wheel will not turn. Obviously the new pads must be a bit thicker than
>the original Cleavland pads. What is the approved method of shimming
>between the two pad brackets such that when the two bolts are snugged
>and safety wired, the wheel will turn without binding.
>
>chet (still had life left in the old pads but obsessive compulsive made
>me do it)
>
>
>Both Brian and I had the exact problem when we initially installed our
>brake systems two years ago. Ken Scott insisted he had never heard of that
>problem before, that it must be something I was doing wrong. Yes, some
>.025 shims will work fine, and yes, you will need them again when you
>finally need new pads. I will also predict that if you have the old style
>wheel pants and you used the indents in the pant to locate the axle (as
>they were intended) that when you buy new tires the left pant won't fit.
>(never had that problem before, must be the way you built it) :=) kevin
>-6A 450hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
No, the plunger/primer/carburator set-up DOES use blue An fittings...you are
refering to injecters for fuel injected systems......
Vanremog(at)aol.com on 11/08/99 11:48:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel primer components
In a message dated 11/8/99 6:57:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Be 110% sure the blue fitting that screws into the cylinder head has the
proper orifice for a primer fitting. >>
Actually, be 110% certain that it is not a blue fitting. The atomizing
fittings, cone unions and nuts are brass.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting |
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 firewall oil cooler mounting
Scott - I just finished mounting the cooler to the firewall and ran into the
same concern. For my forward brace I used an angle piece under the lower
forward edge of the cooler (used the long bolts and sleeves to hold it on
just like the back side of the cooler) and riveted two short vertical pieces
of flat stock to the vertical part of the angle stock. I then used two Adell
clamps to go around the large horizontal engine mount tube and bolt to the
vertical legs of the brace. I figured that the mount and the firwall are
bolted solid together, so a brace down to the mount would get a better angle
of bracing than one back to the firewall.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
>
>> << I am working on mounting my oil cooler to the firewall on my RV-6.
>My angle pieces along the top and bottom edges of the cooler pick up
mounting points on the firewall diagonals. This setup seems rather rigid,
however Van's says I MUST provide support for the front side of the cooler
as well. But that's about all they have to say on the subject.
>> How many pieces of what size angle should I run diagonally from the
front bottom of the oil cooler to the firewall? >>
>>I was waiting for this thread to run its course to see what other
>information might turn up. I am more than just curious. This is a safety
issue for me, as I am flying and my oil cooler is mounted on the firewall
with no such brace.
>So, do I need to do this brace? Has there been a case where an oil cooler
has failed, or is this just something somebody decided was necessary?
>
>
>Scott Sawby RV 6A N341SS 280 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things to ponder |
gert
i just lived that nightmare, $2000.00 worth of tools stolen, damage to bottom
skins. police made a report and laughed at the idea that they would ever be
caught. even with all tools engraved and serial numbers.
hope this never happens to anyone elese
scott
tampa
retooled and squishing rivits
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT readings |
200-250 degrees rich of peak will put you in an over rich condition when the
tempature drops below about 45 degress. 150 to 125 would be fine.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT readings
>
>
> >
> > Scott
> > Would that be full power at 8000'?
> -
> Yes and No.
> At full throttle you should be able to get those #'s because the
> enrichment valve is opened on the carb (so you have more leaning that can
> be done) but even at a sightly reduced throttle setting you should still
> be able to get at least 200 deg and 250 or more would not be uncommon
> (leaned to peak egt). This would equate to about 1" - 1 1/4" of travel
> on most mixture controls from full rich position (knob style, on a
> quadrant it would be even more).
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nightingale Michael <NightingaleMichael(at)JDCorp.deere.com> |
are there any builders getting ready for or have started an RV-9 yet?
rv-9 in my future:
mike nightingale
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: 11/9/99 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Things to ponder
gert
i just lived that nightmare, $2000.00 worth of tools stolen, damage to
bottom
skins. police made a report and laughed at the idea that they would ever
be
caught. even with all tools engraved and serial numbers.
hope this never happens to anyone elese
scott
tampa
retooled and squishing rivits
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure fittings |
Doug,
You mentioned that a straight won't work and a 90 degree hits the mount but
you didn't say anything about a 45 degree fitting. Maybe??
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB wiring it up
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FRANKLIN ENGINES |
Ready for another can of worms??????
Does anyone have info on a motor mount for the Franklin 220 Sport for an
RV-8. Please respond off line or call 253-537-2038.
Bill Bruton
Tacoma, Wa
RV-8QB
tail finished
picking up wings and fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | . . . I think it's working. |
Seems our website engineer decided that a change
of directory names for our website was in order.
The change was done without telling us anything
about it and it seems to have caused our difficulties
for the past 4 days. Seems some folk could get in
while others (including yours truly) could not.
Don't understand everything I've learned about this
problem but I think it's working now.
If anyone has trouble accessing our homepage at
http://www.aeroelectric.com
. . . . I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks for your patience and help. By the way, this
problem had NO EFFECT on our e-mail system and any
orders in work were not at risk.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Things to ponder |
Gert,
The 'N' number has to actually be assigned to that airframe and be registered
(same thing). You do not have to have had an airworthiness certificate
issued yet.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | FRANKLIN ENGINES |
Bill...
I have been reading about the 'Flanklinstein' that Van's put in an -8, maybe
you can call Van's and ask them if they plan to offer mount kits, or ask
them to make you a mount...
Please keep me informed as I am interested in the Franklin as well...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Rudder
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: FRANKLIN ENGINES
Ready for another can of worms??????
Does anyone have info on a motor mount for the Franklin 220 Sport for an
RV-8. Please respond off line or call 253-537-2038.
Bill Bruton
Tacoma, Wa
RV-8QB
tail finished
picking up wings and fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I had/have this concern also because my hangar is in a dark corner of a
country airport and even with locks on the door, anyone with a nut driver
could open up the metal siding on the hangar and walk away with anything
they wanted.
I checked with my homeowner's insurance company (Hartford via AARP) and they
confirmed that my homeowner's insurance WOULD cover theft from the airport
of my stuff (tools, etc, not the airplane) just as if they were in the
garage attached to my home. FWIW check with your insurance company.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com> |
| Subject: | Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? and Fishe ye |
Reducers
Just a note about the reason WHY the Fisheye Reducers are such a bad idea to
cure paint problems. Most (not all, but how can you be sure?) Fisheye
Reducers are in fact designed to reduce fisheyes caused by Silicone and
related compounds. They fix it by flooding the paint with Silicone or with
a Silicone substitute. The problem is, now you have paint that can't ever
be sanded and touched up without using Fisheye Reducer. It would be like
trying to paint over a fresh coat of Silicone lubricant. Try shooting some
paint at some Silicone and you can literally WATCH it run away. (I guess
it's scared.) Anyway, this also leaves your gun and cup and everything else
CONTAMINATED with Silicone or Sil. Substitute. It is almost impossible to
remove completely. Kinda' like trying to clean Silicone Wax off an airplane
so you can repaint it. Not fun and terribly time consuming.
P.S. Don't use a Silicone based lubricant anywhere near parts you eventually
intend to paint. You'll regret it.
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
Baton Rouge, LA
225-753-9339 thom.hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane?
Gary,
It's hard to diagnose paint problems remotely, but one factor which can
...SNIP...
To fix the problem, I would wet sand the part with 240 grit paper and begin
with the primer step again. Wipe the part down with a high quality enamel
reducer (expensive) to cleanse the part. Chances are that if the primer
covers the rivets well, the poly should flow out okay. Follow Tim's
instructions for coverage. Should work out okay. I know that Scott
McDaniels suggested using fisheye additive. That may work as well, but
unless you are a professional painter, I wouldn't recommend it. I don't
remember the reasons why my professional painter friend advised me to not
use it, but I've never needed it. That doesn't mean that it won't work
though.
Every time I've ever had a problem with flow out of poly paint, I traced it
to a surface defect caused my lack of proper preparation or surface
contamination that occurred after the primer was applied.
Hopes this helps.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting..........still"
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 9:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane?
>
>After what seemed like months of preparation I was finally able to spray
some
...SNIP...
>this
>is a learning experience.
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A - Dreading stripping paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
\> Other Lessons learned: DuPont's Imron application instructions (1
> medium coat, 10 minute flash, 1 heavy coat) didn't work too well for
> covering dimpled rivets. DuPont tech support had a better suggestion,
> which worked well: two medium coats rather than one, flash time of 25
> minutes or more rather than 10 minutes, THEN the heavy coat. This
> provides much better rivet coverage. The longer flash time allows a
> heavier intermediate coats without causing sagging.
Sherwin Williams Sunfire covered my wings perfectly in two medium coats. I
had sprayed the wings with Super Koropon Fluid Resistant Primer by
Courtaulds Aerospace in Mojave California the day before. No extra attention
to filling the rivet lines but now that I have read so much on the subject I
feel that spraying an extra line along the rivet heads and sanding it off
would be a good idea just to make sure.
The Super Koropon seems to fill things quite nicely. It is a one to one two
part primer. Very expensive, I have an unconfirmed report that it was
designed for the space shuttle. Is any one able to confirm this?
My entire project has this primer on every piece before riveting. I'm on the
fourth set of the stuff purchased from Lindair in YVR. In the moist climate
here on the West Coast I like the idea of a sealing primer. If I could do it
again the one thing I would start with is an HVLP spray gun. It would pay
for itself in primer savings before the fuselage bulkheads were on the jig.
I am now about to buy one anyway as numerous interior pieces of my fuselage
are ready for paint. Wish I'd had it from the beginning.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stolen Tools |
As the owner of an Insurance Agency I will try to help people out on this
subject. Some policies are better then others, but on the standard policy
you will have coverage for up to $2500 worth of your possesions that are
stored off premise. This would be in a hanger etc. you can however pay a
small premium to increase that amount to what ever you want. For those of
you that have a better policy you may already have $5000 or even more of off
premise coverage. A renters or condo owners policy will give the same
options.
However if your hanger is on your own property that your house is on you will
have coverage on your tools up to the contents amount on yout homeowners
policy.
Hope this helps.
Chris Wilcox, President and f-1 rocket owner / builder
CGW Insurance/Investments
927 Alpine Court
Oshkosh, WI 54901
(920) 235-1082
(920) 235-1083 fax
www.cgwi.com
In a message dated 11/9/1999 1:03:20 PM Central Standard Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<< I had/have this concern also because my hangar is in a dark corner of a
country airport and even with locks on the door, anyone with a nut driver
could open up the metal siding on the hangar and walk away with anything
they wanted.
I checked with my homeowner's insurance company (Hartford via AARP) and they
confirmed that my homeowner's insurance WOULD cover theft from the airport
of my stuff (tools, etc, not the airplane) just as if they were in the
garage attached to my home. FWIW check with your insurance company.
RV-6A Flying
Salida, C >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com |
From the amount of work already done at the factory, isn't the label "builders"
a little strong? I was thinking more down the lines of "assemblers" or
"putter-togetheres." To build an airplane without having to flute ribs, layout
holes or even build a jig just doesn't seem fair !
..........To all those asseml.......builders of the -9 I am only kidding.
Steve Nichols
Rv-4
(having to layout and drill my spar to bulkhead)
Do not archive
Nightingale Michael on 11/09/99 11:07:14
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
cc: (bcc: Steve Nichols/Piping/SWEC)
Subject: RV-List: rv 9
are there any builders getting ready for or have started an RV-9 yet?
rv-9 in my future:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Don't forget they still have to dimple and rivet! Lets call them diviters!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com <steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv 9
>
>From the amount of work already done at the factory, isn't the label
"builders"
>a little strong? I was thinking more down the lines of "assemblers" or
>"putter-togetheres." To build an airplane without having to flute ribs,
layout
>holes or even build a jig just doesn't seem fair !
>
>
>..........To all those asseml.......builders of the -9 I am only kidding.
>
>
> Steve Nichols
> Rv-4
> (having to layout and drill my spar to bulkhead)
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>Nightingale Michael on 11/09/99
11:07:14
>AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>
> cc: (bcc: Steve Nichols/Piping/SWEC)
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: rv 9
>
>
>
>
>are there any builders getting ready for or have started an RV-9 yet?
>
>rv-9 in my future:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Houle <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
Can someone point me to some great pictures of an airborne RV6 on the net.
I have an artist friend who is going to do a picture for me and i need to
give her something cool to go off. thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 pictures |
check out http://members.home.net/rv8er/rvweek04.jpg
there are many more on Van's site, under the RV of the week section..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Houle <thoule(at)kneehill.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 10:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 pictures
>
>Can someone point me to some great pictures of an airborne RV6 on the net.
>I have an artist friend who is going to do a picture for me and i need to
>give her something cool to go off. thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 pictures |
Tim Houle wrote:
> Can someone point me to some great pictures of an airborne RV6 on the net.
> I have an artist friend who is going to do a picture for me and i need to
> give her something cool to go off. thanks
members.xoom.com/frankv/screensaver
Lots of RV pictures (6s mostly, plus 4s, 6As, 8s, 8As) grabbed from all
over the Web, plus a Win95 screensaver program (VUEPRO73) and a desktop
wallpaper changer (DTC).
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel primer components |
In a message dated 11/9/99 7:49:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< No, the plunger/primer/carburator setup DOES use blue An fittings...you
are
referring to injectors for fuel injected systems. >>
No, I'm referring to the primer fittings that are designed for installation
in the cylinder head. These are special fittings sold by ACS and Wicks and
they are brass, not blue anodized aluminum. I gave the part numbers in a
posting just the other day.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
An interesting reward of hanging out on this list for awhile is finding out
the kind of people the other listers are. It is appropriate to take an
humble tone because there are some very talented people out there. It turns
out that Joe and Bill and Beverly, in many cases, are very interesting
people who don't say anything about themselves.
There are fighter pilots of all types, from jet jockeys to navy men who flew
piston engine taildraggers off carriers. There are airline pilots, current
and retired, DC-3's to 747's. There are flight instructors and there are
flying beginners. There are test pilots and ag pilots. There are teachers
and principals. There seem to be several engineers: electrical, structural
and others. There are materials experts and computer experts and software
experts. People who work for aerospace companies and software companies and
microchip companies. There are poets and dreamers and there are no-nonsense
aviation mechanics and farmers. In other words there is a whole lot of
aggregate knowledge.
IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power our
engines are producing in flight. There is the rule of thumb (add the MP and
RPM and consult the chart) that I have posted on my panel. It is elegantly
simple. Its drawback is that it does not work. There is the Lycoming
official chart. Its drawback is that it is not usable by ordinary mortals
in flight, involving as it does, interpolation, microscopic print, square
roots and the need for the standard atmosphere to be memorized. The best
solution I have found is the spreadsheet for the O-360 that Kevin Horton has
developed (http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html). Its drawback is
that it requires a digital computer running an Excel spreadsheet. Fine for
home, and valuable, but very impractical in flight, even with a palmtop
computer (I know!). Cessna's solution, in all my all operating manuals, is
pages and pages of tables, that also require much interpolation, and again,
require the standard atmosphere by memorized.
Does it have to be this hard? Surely there is a solution.
There are 4 inputs, pressure altitude, temperature, manifold pressure and
rpm. It seems to me that years ago I saw some kind of circular slide rule
for solving this problem and I think that is what we need. With all the
inputs it seems like it would need the regular slide rule part plus maybe a
window and some kind of cursor to get the answer. Or maybe there is a
shortcut way to go by using the density altitude read out many of us have
with our Microencoders to eliminate one variable.
All I know is I have been working on it and it defies me so far. There must
be someone who can figure it out though, and that is my challenge to
everyone. Develop a graphic for it that we can download and have printed on
metal. Put your name on the graphic. It will be your chance at
immortality.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
Anybody else seen the RV8 Weak Wing Theory at http://www.rvators.com/?
Comments?
See the rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup for more input.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> An interest
>**snip
>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power our
> engines are producing in flight.
>**snip
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
>
If you have an extra $700 laying around, this neat little instrument
does a fantastic job of determining percent of power:
<http://www.technologykitchen.com/epm.htm>
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
I called Lycoming about their pitiful graph and they FAXed me a table that
is much more useable. I entered it into an excel spreadsheet, it's on the
web at http://www.edt.com/homewing/notes.html . I tried converting it to
HTML but the conversion messed up the formatting too much, so if you don't
have excel, then, sorry...
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Type "S" epoxy cowl survey |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Any builders that have completed the installation of a type "S" epoxy
cowl on your project...
I am interested in whether or not you utilized the molded in side flange
with screws, camlocks, etc., or did you remove it and do the standard
hinge installation.
Trying to determine whether the interest/use of this feature is enough to
retain this as part of the cowl while making some new molds.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> From the amount of work already done at the factory, isn't the label
> "builders"
> a little strong? I was thinking more down the lines of "assemblers"
> or
> "putter-togetheres." To build an airplane without having to flute
> ribs, layout
> holes or even build a jig just doesn't seem fair !
>
>
> ..........To all those asseml.......builders of the -9 I am only
> kidding.
>
-
In all fairness to all of the anticipating RV-9 assembler/builders...
You will still have to use a drill. You will also still make basic jigs
similar to the other RV kits but there importance will be reduced. The
assemblies will be self aligning for the most part but you still need
something to hold the big item (wing, fuselage,etc.) while you work on
it.
We did build a set of wings without a drill or jig but we wont be
recommending that first time builders do so.
-
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oh why did I decide to paint my own plane? and Fishe ye Reducers |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Just a note about the reason WHY the Fisheye Reducers are such a bad
> idea to
> cure paint problems. Most (not all, but how can you be sure?)
> Fisheye
> Reducers are in fact designed to reduce fisheyes caused by Silicone
> and
> related compounds. They fix it by flooding the paint with Silicone
> or with
> a Silicone substitute. The problem is, now you have paint that
> can't ever
> be sanded and touched up without using Fisheye Reducer. It would be
> like
> trying to paint over a fresh coat of Silicone lubricant. Try
> shooting some
> paint at some Silicone and you can literally WATCH it run away. (I
> guess
> it's scared.) Anyway, this also leaves your gun and cup and
> everything else
> CONTAMINATED with Silicone or Sil. Substitute. It is almost
> impossible to
> remove completely. Kinda' like trying to clean Silicone Wax off an
> airplane
> so you can repaint it. Not fun and terribly time consuming.
>
> P.S. Don't use a Silicone based lubricant anywhere near parts you
> eventually
> intend to paint. You'll regret it.
>
Maybe I should have been more specific in my post.
I do not at all advocate using this type of additive (unless there is no
other alternative). It sounded like this particular paint project was
well under way so this would be one way to alleviate the problem.
Some people use these types of products all the time to help get better
paint flow out. This is should not be done as a replacement for good
painting technique.
I am far from being professional painter so take what I say about
painting for what it's worth.
In saying that... I have used these types of products a couple of times
with no ill effects. No problems using the equipment for any other
painting projects, and no problems repainting or touching up the already
painted surfaces.
Like anything, it probably depends on which product you use and how much
of it.
I also do not believe that these products are death in a bottle to paint
finishes. This would mean that no painter in his right mind would ever
use them. If this were the case then none of the stores that sell to the
auto paint shop professionals would bother to carry the stuff (but all of
them do).
I do agree that they should not be used unless you it means the
difference between having a crummy paint job without it or a 1/2 way
decent job with.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Help needed on installing the f695 to the firewall and longeron.
I believe the f695 ataches to the top of the cross piece 1/8 angle of
firewall and logeron.
I also believe that the f695 has to fit snug against the longeron.
OK i can get one side to sort of fit ok but the left side has a gap
between the longeron and f695 of 1/4 inch decreasing as you go rearward.
Please no one ask me what i think of the plans at this time!!
Chris AUST
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
Larry...
Seems to me like that may be a possibility. However, the RV-8 is designed
for 6 G's, plus a 50% fudge factor. Van has proved it would do as
advertised on a number of occasions. I don't think one could design an
airplane that would not break if it were flown outside of its design
peramaters. I know I intend to fly mine on the safe side of 6 G's....
Dick White
Rv-8QB, wiring
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Weak Wing Theory
>
> Anybody else seen the RV8 Weak Wing Theory at http://www.rvators.com/?
> Comments?
>
> See the rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup for more input.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 wings
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>Larry Pardue wrote:
>>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power
our
>> engines are producing in flight.
>>> RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
>If you have an extra $700 laying around, this neat little instrument
>does a fantastic job of determining percent of power:
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuselage
Jerry/Larry: While the instrument referred to above might be interesting,
I suspect that it will be less than accurate because it is based on the
manufacturers power charts. These are better than nothing, but not much,
because test cell data relates to flight data rather poorly. We have no
idea how our exhaust systems, dumping into the slipstream compare with the
stubs (or whatever) used by the factory. We don't know very much about our
own operating conditions and how they compare with test cell conditions
(which I presume to be corrected to some standard). An attempt to obtain
power was made by the CAFE group a while back but not much is heard of it
now. Their effort involved looking at cylinder pressures. If it were
successful it would result in indicated power, not power delivered to the
prop. If you could develop a proper torquemeter that could be used in
flight you'd really have something. Many have considered it. It ain't been
done yet for small engines.
The above ought to start something.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: RV-List: Engine Chart" (Nov 9, 8:13pm)
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>--------------
>
>I called Lycoming about their pitiful graph and they FAXed me a table that
>is much more useable. I entered it into an excel spreadsheet, it's on the
>web at http://www.edt.com/homewing/notes.html . I tried converting it to
>HTML but the conversion messed up the formatting too much, so if you don't
>have excel, then, sorry...
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>--------------
Hey Randall,
I was going to play around with your spreadsheet, but I get the following
error when I try to open it with the latest version of Excel:
"O360_power.xls cannot be accessed. The file may be read-only, or you
may be trying to access a read-only location. Or, the server the
document is stored on may not be responding."
Not sure what the deal is.
By the way, to store the file on your local system off the web server,
one needs to press the "Shift" key and then click on the link. This
should pop up a dialog box on where to store the file. FYI.
Thanks Dude.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | rv6a foreward floor |
i'm pretty sure that the .040 foreward floor should slide under the side
skins at the rivet lines, but, has anyone placed the floorskin over the
sideskin? i get a much nicer fit on top. the wing tank will cover about half
the skin line. i'm wondering if anyone has seen this done?? i know
structurally there can't be any difference but that skin lap may stickout
like a sore thumb afterward. but for now it seems a better plan than
stuffing that floor pan under the sideskin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com> |
Listers,
I thought that it would be a matter of general interest to mention that the
LRI is installed in the GlaStar EAA/FAA test program. We did not solicit
inclusion, but we gladly accepted the invitation to join. The following is
excerpted from an e-mail from an EAA representative:
"The aircraft [the GlaStar] does have many new systems on it: It has the
Sierra EFIS primary flight display, the ARNAV GPS, moving map
display-terrain identification system, and weather data link, the Avidyne
display system, and the Vision Microsystems engine control display, among
others. The LRI is in some fine company I think."
The project will consist of several months of test flights by more than one
pilot, as I understand it. I believe that the test flights will begin
sometime in December. Once the test flights are completed the EAA and FAA
will write joint reports evaluating the various systems. Currently, we are
putting together questions of interest which we are submitting to be added
to the testing program. If anyone would like to add a question to the
project please send them along to jimrhunt(at)wco.com and we will submit them
as well.
Also, I would like to remind everyone who might be considering installing
the LRI that Al Mojzisik is assembling a purchasing group and that 5% of
each unit sold through Al during the fund raiser will be donated to Matt
Dralle to support his good work here.
As many of you might know, Custom Planes in the current (December) issue is
featuring an AOA article and the LRI and the PSS system are highlighted
with descriptions and photos and such. The article is less technical than
some of the discussion here, but nonetheless useful.
Finally, this anecdotal snippet happened across my screen from a 180/185
line yesterday:
"A couple of weeks ago I ran into Bruce Bohannon (pylon racer and time to
climb record guy). He was trapped; the only guy at the airport. We took
pictures of my 18 mo/old boy in the cockpit of his tiger striped RV3-4-6-8
and we yucked it up for a bit. He has one of the LRIs installed and said
that he flys by it because gives him the precise max climb indication that
he needs for the climb records. He really liked it."
Jim Huntington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6a foreward floor |
That floor skin sticking out over the side skin will also have a tendancy to
catch the rain too.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven DiNieri <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv6a foreward floor
>
>i'm pretty sure that the .040 foreward floor should slide under the side
>skins at the rivet lines, but, has anyone placed the floorskin over the
>sideskin? i get a much nicer fit on top. the wing tank will cover about
half
>the skin line. i'm wondering if anyone has seen this done?? i know
>structurally there can't be any difference but that skin lap may stickout
>like a sore thumb afterward. but for now it seems a better plan than
>stuffing that floor pan under the sideskin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "et" <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
Greetings,
I am an RV-8 tail kit builder, and am glad that others are taking a look at
this. I recently posted on
this subject, and got only one reply...was wondering if I were the only one
concerned.
Van's tests included the static test, flutter tests, and metalurgical
reports, but it seemed to me a lack of
"dynamic" analysis or analysis of component interactions. I know this
probably covers tons of
possibilities, and there were plenty of experts there helping Van (of which
I am not), but I do
feel a bit uneasy about the conclusion.
Van has probably done more testing than any other manufacturer, and I think
he offers fine products.
I am also glad others are still looking into this. Maybe Van will address
this in a future RVator.
Eric Tauch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Emp. kit survey |
Scott,
I just finished my Horizontal Stab 2 weeks ago and the fit seems to be okay.
Bill Bruton
Tacoma, WA
RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Carb probe location |
Hi,
Can someone tell me where a carb temp probe would screw into a MA-4-5
carb.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Weak Wing Theory--Hypothesis actually! |
My only response to the Weak Wing Theory can be that if this is a concern
then build a RV4 or RV6 or purchase a Cessna. These airplanes are not
intended for all out aerobatics and how does it get to be known that the wing
failed under "only moderate G forces"? How is this known?--it is not and is
still conjecture. I would imagine that if we were to start testing 4/6 wings
we would find an area that was weak and were the failure would begin albiet
well beyond the design load factor. The 8 wing held to beyond it's load
factor and then 150%. Again, the RV 4/6 wings are proven and apparently can
stand up to Harmon Rocket forces/speeds/weight. Look at the new Exxon Tiger
airplane--a modified RV4 with a wing LONGER than stock by a foot with no real
"beefing" whatever that really is anyway. What is "beefing" anyway?--beef
here, beef there, b.s. everywhere. JR, A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> |
> If you have an extra $700 laying around, this neat little instrument
> does a fantastic job of determining percent of power:
>
> <http://www.technologykitchen.com/epm.htm>
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuselage
From the online operator's manual:
"The EPM calculates percent power using data from the manufacturer's engine
performance chart. Therefore, it has the same limitations as the engine
performance chart and aircraft performance table"
Though it's a neat device, I figured a nice little RPM/MP chart on the panel
was a LOT cheaper for the same not so totally accurate info !
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff, http://fp1.cyberhighway.net/~racker)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BB Diversified <bbds(at)means.net> |
Lots of conversation about atomization of fuel by the primer--as Brian
pointed out, the primer "nozzle" is not in the combustion chamber but
behind the intake valve, so it's the luck of the draw whether it even
squirts into the cylinder when the engine is not cranking. IMHO whether it
atomizes or not isn't real important to the whole picture... the wind going
by during the intake stroke will atomize/vaporize it.
BTW, those of you with primers, pull your primer plunger out when the
engine is running so it siphons fuel--depending on your setup, it will
probably run so rich it looks like a diesel. Try various power settings,
see how/if it will run, especially at low MP (closed throttle) so it's
sucking real hard. Good experiment to see what it's like if the primer
o-ring goes sad on you... will it die on final, etc. The o-ring going bad
is the main reason to go for small primer orifices, methinks.
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Type S cowl flange |
To Scott McDaniels, cc the list:
In response to your note on the RV list - I'm working on a -6A(Q) (60262),
and did elect to leave the flanges on the lower cowl. I used 8-32
countersunk screws and nutplates (approx 2" spacing around the firewall, 3"
along the side seams - may well be overkill?). Backed up with .025 alum
strips on both top & bottom halves of the cowl. We're not in the air yet
(hope to change that by Christmas or so), but it feels quite stable.
I made the call to use screws instead of hinges because it looked like a lot
of work to fit the hinges, and several RV-listers have commented about the
hinges wearing. Since then, some of the comments about making sure the
hinges aren't stressed/preloaded all the time have made sense - I might make
a different decision if I were to build another one. Certainly the
appearance of the hinge approach is hard to beat when done well.
My opinion - if it isn't costing much to leave the flange in, please keep
it. It does make this CHOICE easy to make. If you do leave it in, a little
discussion about how it might be used in the manual would be nice (maybe
even some recommendations about screw spacing). I know that Mike Seager has
at least said he plans to avoid the hinges on his next/current project -
don't know if he followed through with that or not.
Keep up the good work - I'm rapidly solidifying my opinion that one of the
big values of Van's products is that they keep getting better as you and the
crew keep finding better ways to do things. Asking questions like this is a
valid way to get quick/easy/effective customer feedback, too!
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) at the airport, finishing the details before
re-mounting the wings!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | fisheye additives |
I'm not a professional painter. I have used the fisheye additive on many
cars and planes including my RV-4. The only problems I've ever had with
fisheye is when the additive was not used. I believe it's much safer for us
amateurs to use the additive.
After all, you RVer's drilled every rivet hole with an oil blowing air drill
didn't you. It's foolhardy to think you got all that oil out of the rivet
holes. Guess when it's gonna come out? RIGHT! It will come out as soon as
you spray some paint on it and you will get a ring around the rivet! Unless
you add the cheap and effective fisheye additive.
Okay, I guess it's really an anti-fisheye additive. Ask your paint supplier
or body shop if you still have doubts.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Type "S" epoxy cowl survey |
>From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Type "S" epoxy cowl survey
>Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 21:36:45 -0800
>
>
>Any builders that have completed the installation of a type "S" epoxy
>cowl on your project...
>I am interested in whether or not you utilized the molded in side flange
>with screws, camlocks, etc., or did you remove it and do the standard
>hinge installation.
>
>Trying to determine whether the interest/use of this feature is enough to
>retain this as part of the cowl while making some new molds.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
Scott,
I removed the flanges and used hinges.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Larry,
Seems to me that, with only four inputs, this could be a natural for a
custom avionics product for someone to manufacture. Some simple logic for
determining the RPM, a couple of transducer for determining the manifold
pressure and pressure altitude, and an outside temperature sensor, and a
simple off the self LCD display. Driven by a simple microprocessor to
perform the calculations... Maybe a button to toggle the display between the
four inputs and the resultant engine power setting...... Sounds like a neat
product idea...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
____
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Chart
An interesting reward of hanging out on this list for awhile is
finding out
the kind of people the other listers are. It is appropriate to take
an
humble tone because there are some very talented people out there.
It turns
out that Joe and Bill and Beverly, in many cases, are very
interesting
people who don't say anything about themselves.
There are fighter pilots of all types, from jet jockeys to navy men
who flew
piston engine taildraggers off carriers. There are airline pilots,
current
and retired, DC-3's to 747's. There are flight instructors and
there are
flying beginners. There are test pilots and ag pilots. There are
teachers
and principals. There seem to be several engineers: electrical,
structural
and others. There are materials experts and computer experts and
software
experts. People who work for aerospace companies and software
companies and
microchip companies. There are poets and dreamers and there are
no-nonsense
aviation mechanics and farmers. In other words there is a whole lot
of
aggregate knowledge.
IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of
power our
engines are producing in flight. There is the rule of thumb (add
the MP and
RPM and consult the chart) that I have posted on my panel. It is
elegantly
simple. Its drawback is that it does not work. There is the
Lycoming
official chart. Its drawback is that it is not usable by ordinary
mortals
in flight, involving as it does, interpolation, microscopic print,
square
roots and the need for the standard atmosphere to be memorized. The
best
solution I have found is the spreadsheet for the O-360 that Kevin
Horton has
developed (http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html). Its
drawback is
that it requires a digital computer running an Excel spreadsheet.
Fine for
home, and valuable, but very impractical in flight, even with a
palmtop
computer (I know!). Cessna's solution, in all my all operating
manuals, is
pages and pages of tables, that also require much interpolation, and
again,
require the standard atmosphere by memorized.
Does it have to be this hard? Surely there is a solution.
There are 4 inputs, pressure altitude, temperature, manifold
pressure and
rpm. It seems to me that years ago I saw some kind of circular
slide rule
for solving this problem and I think that is what we need. With all
the
inputs it seems like it would need the regular slide rule part plus
maybe a
window and some kind of cursor to get the answer. Or maybe there is
a
shortcut way to go by using the density altitude read out many of us
have
with our Microencoders to eliminate one variable.
All I know is I have been working on it and it defies me so far.
There must
be someone who can figure it out though, and that is my challenge to
everyone. Develop a graphic for it that we can download and have
printed on
metal. Put your name on the graphic. It will be your chance at
immortality.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nowakod(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
Folks, Does anybody out there have a Lycoming O320-B2C in an RV-6? I am
being told by Van's that it will not work due to the straight riser in the
oil sump. I am not sure what that means but I can see no interference
problems at all. Of course, I haven't installed it yet but I am in the
middle of the engine build-up. The carbeurator mounts on the bottom of the
sump and is towards the rear of the sump. I can see where this would
possibly cause a problem with a 6-A mount. Can anybody help? I would also
like to know part numbers for the bolts and the shock mounts if you have
them (conical engine mount). thanks in advance.....don
P.S. Not getting a lot of help from Van's on this one......
Don Nowakowski RV-6 Builder24294 (ready to install engine....if it will
work??)
Blessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
--- nowakod(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
>
> Folks, Does anybody out there have a Lycoming
> O320-B2C in an RV-6? I am
> being told by Van's that it will not work due to the
> straight riser in the
> oil sump. I am not sure what that means but I can
> see no interference
> problems at all. Of course, I haven't installed it
> yet but I am in the
> middle of the engine build-up. The carbeurator
> mounts on the bottom of the
> sump and is towards the rear of the sump. I can see
> where this would
> possibly cause a problem with a 6-A mount. Can
> anybody help? I would also
> like to know part numbers for the bolts and the
> shock mounts if you have
> them (conical engine mount). thanks in
> advance.....don
>
> P.S. Not getting a lot of help from Van's on this
> one......
>
> Don Nowakowski RV-6 Builder24294 (ready to install
> engine....if it will
> work??)
>
>
> Blessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the
> light.
Need to look up how the B2C is different from the B2B
that I have in my FLYING RV-6. The B2B has the
Straight Riser and the carb is mounted toward the back
of the sump. I believe that it will NOT work on an
RV-6A. The engine mount bolts I would recomend that
you purchase from Van's. He has a KIT listed in the
catalog so you will not need individual part numbers.
The conical engine mount bushings that I used were
purchased from Wag Aero as they had the lowest price.
I also do not know the number but understand that all
the conical mount 320s are the same. Also same as 290
and 235.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>
>Larry,
>
> Seems to me that, with only four inputs, this could be a natural for a
>custom avionics product for someone to manufacture. Some simple logic for
>determining the RPM, a couple of transducer for determining the manifold
>pressure and pressure altitude, and an outside temperature sensor, and a
>simple off the self LCD display. Driven by a simple microprocessor to
>perform the calculations... Maybe a button to toggle the display between the
>four inputs and the resultant engine power setting...... Sounds like a neat
>product idea...
>
> IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of
>power our
> engines are producing in flight.
As others have pointed out there is just such a device on the market.
Being the way I am I was looking for something that doesn't require
installation, panel space and $700. I had in mind something that fits in
the pocket and cost from nothing to $5.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Vibration |
RV6 with 320-D2J and Aymar-Demuth Wood Prop.
On base leg with 1550rpm I get a vibration, it starts approx 1400 and
ends 1700rpm. It has been suggested it is the switching over of jets in
the carb. Is anyone else getting a noticable vibration with a wood prop
? It has been balanced and tracked.
Comments please, Peter (Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
Since we're talking about the RV-9, does anybody know when tail kits might
begin to ship?
Mark Schrimmer
Waiting for RV-9 Tail Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul and Janet Lein <lein1jd(at)cmich.edu> |
| Subject: | oil cooler for sale |
Builders,
I have a Positech # 4215 for sale. Van's price is $167.29 but my price
is $90 plus shipping. I used this cooler for about 20 hours before
fitting a different cooler behind #4 on my IO-360. The flanges have been
modified to clear the diagonal motor mount brace. I am in Michigan and
will ship any way you prefer. Reply off list please.
Paul Lein
6a flying
(With the big motor and happy with it,too : )).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vaso Bovan" <vaso(at)bovan.com> |
| Subject: | Zehrback Engines & Accessories |
Zehrbach-LPE announced an electronic fuel injection system in one of the
recent kit aviation magazines. When I inquired by phone, they sent me a
package of literature describing Zehrbach engines and components, including:
IO-360-Z Improved Engine based on Lycoming
Electronic Fuel Injection System
LPE Battery Lightweight gas recombination
Ceramic & Solid Lubricant Engine Performance Packages
Ceramic "Black Magic" Engine Exhaust Coatings
Liquid (Oil) Cylinder Head Cooling System
My phone contact told me that Zehrbach has a long history of developing
engine technology for military and NASA applications, but has had a low
profile in commercial aviation engines. This is the first I've heard of this
broad range of products.
So, what's the story on Zehrbach ? Are these improvements well known and
proven and cost effective ?
-Vaso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carb probe location |
In a message dated 11/9/99 11:45:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,
glenng(at)megsinet.net writes:
<< Can someone tell me where a carb temp probe would screw into a MA-4-5
carb. >>
Front of carburetor near the top there s/b a slotted brass 1/4-28 screw that
fills this port. Use a good screwdriver that fills the driving recess
because mine was seated real well.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
A friend of mine just called me to ask if they should build a -8A or a -9A
[Bill at van's said that was going to be the name]. Of course I told him to
build an -8A!
But I digress... He said -9A Empennage kits will be shipping within a week
for delivery by Thanksgiving...
BTW... I published new pictures of my rudder progress today...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Rudder
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-9
Since we're talking about the RV-9, does anybody know when tail kits might
begin to ship?
Mark Schrimmer
Waiting for RV-9 Tail Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
>
>Folks, Does anybody out there have a Lycoming O320-B2C in an RV-6? I am
>being told by Van's that it will not work due to the straight riser in the
>oil sump. I am not sure what that means but I can see no interference
>problems at all. Of course, I haven't installed it yet but I am in the
>middle of the engine build-up. The carbeurator mounts on the bottom of the
>sump and is towards the rear of the sump. I can see where this would
>possibly cause a problem with a 6-A mount. Can anybody help? I would also
>like to know part numbers for the bolts and the shock mounts if you have
>them (conical engine mount). thanks in advance.....don
>
>P.S. Not getting a lot of help from Van's on this one......
>
>Don Nowakowski RV-6 Builder24294 (ready to install engine....if it will
>work??)
>
>
>Blessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.
Don,
Your engine is out of a Robinson R22 helicopter. I am using the same
engine in a 6A, but had to change the sump and tubes. I was under the
impression that the engine will work "as is" in the RV6. When I was looking
for a sump, Scott McDaniels led me to believe that the engine as outfitted,
was compatible with a RV6.
Louise Coats, who owns a beautiful RV6 in NZ has a friend flying a RV6 with
the 0-320 b2c. Louise's email is lcoats(at)wave.co.nz. I am sure she wouldn't
mind asking her friend any questions you might have concerning this engine.
Hope this helps.
John Crate
RV-6A Fuselage in Jig (still)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N58DM |
Dave, congratulations. As a future member of the NY wing of Vans Air Force
it's very gratifying to see another RV in the air, Congrats again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 Fuse
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com <RV6160hp(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 6:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight N58DM
>
>The Facts:
>
>First Flight Sunday 11/7/99
>N58DM
>Serial # 24148
>Van's RV6
>Completed, Dry weight 1055 Lb..
>Used 160hp 0320H2AD 1500SMOH
>Sensenich Metal "Cruise Prop"
>Started 4/25/95 in home cellar, Cicero, NY.
>Finished at EAA 486 Hanger KFZY, Oswego Airport
>Fulton, New York. (WHAT A GREAT PLACE!!, see the web pages).
>Build time @ 1800 Hours (includes: Phlogoston Spar/Barnard Wing kits).
>
>So @ 4.5 years later...air under the tires.
>Test Pilot Fellow RV6 Builder/pilot Alan McKeen at the stick.
>(His plane is also RV6 160hp FP). Ground operations controlled by
>fellow RV6 Builder/pilot John Balbierer, (His plane is also RV6 180hp CS).
>MANY THANKS GUYS, for all your help!
>
>2 flights accomplished 11/7/99. @ 1.5 hours logged in air.
>Cowl removed between flights, inspections went well.
>Fuel drains sumped, fuel level checked, oil checked,
>over all general conditional inspections done.
>
>Early reports went like this:
>
>OAT approximately BRISK 41 degrees.
>Winds @ 8-13 mph down Runway 33
>2 Heat muffs work well.
>Pilot ANR PA-79's work well.
>
>High speed taxi runs, tail up, handles well.
>
>Take off distance normal (down right short to SPAM can standards),
>Plane climbs well.
>Climb to cloud base @ 3700 feet.
>Flight controls evaluated..all well. Light and responsive.
>Right Rudder "RV block" will be needed.
>(Installed & appeared fixed on 2nd flight)
>Elevator trim appears OK as is, barely moved.
>R wing is the heavy side, @ 1 pound pull to level.
>The usual minor adjustment needed and we'll fix soon.
>
>Slow speed evaluation at cloud base:
>Approach to landing w/o flaps
>Took a while to slow down.
>80 mph ias OK
>70 mushy
>60 nose high
>58 stall, R wing drop
>
>Approach to landing 1/2 flaps
>80 mph ias OK
>70 mushy
>60 nose high
>57 stall, nose drop centered
>
>Approach to landing full flaps
>80 mph ias OK
>70 mushy
>60 nose high
>55 stall, nose drop centered.
>
>Summary, good stall characteristics, lots of mushy feeling and warning.
>Dropped nose, add power, instantly to 100mph and recovers well with
minimal
>altitude loss.
>
>Best Glide..85 mph ias
>engine idle
>600-700 fpm descent.
>
>360 degree turns, at 10 degree, 20 and 30 degree banks went well.
>
>Some more early numbers:
>(no wheel pants installed)
>Power setting held at 25" map, 2330 rpm, 168 Mph ias.
>Wide open rpm/mph ias was higher, but I failed to record.
>All I could remember was is seemed blistering, BUT IT IS AN RV!!
>
>Wood, Fiberglass gear legs., pneumatic tail wheel.
>Landings went well. Felt OK to Alan, like his plane.
>
>All flight and engine gages working.
>
>RV grins were all around....
>The Van's NY RV AF grew by 1.
>
>Yet another example of the plane, built to the plans,
>yielding the design numbers. Thank you Van.
>
>Respectfully
>David E. McManmon
>N58DM
>Builder/Owner
>Cicero NY.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 pictures |
Get hold of one of vans calanders for your project.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>Can someone point me to some great pictures of an airborne RV6 on the
>net.
>I have an artist friend who is going to do a picture for me and i need
>to
>give her something cool to go off. thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler for sale |
Paul and Janet Lein wrote:
>
>
> Builders,
>
> I have a Positech # 4215 for sale. Van's price is $167.29 but my price
> is $90 plus shipping. I used this cooler for about 20 hours before
> fitting a different cooler behind #4 on my IO-360. The flanges have been
> modified to clear the diagonal motor mount brace. I am in Michigan and
> will ship any way you prefer. Reply off list please.
>
> Paul Lein
> 6a flying
> (With the big motor and happy with it,too : )).
Paul
I am building an 8 with IO360. What cooler did you end up with and
how are the temps. Do you have before and after comparisons?
George Meketa
Cessna 140 \ RV8-Q (wings allmost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
John:
I ran a B3B engine in an RV - 6 w/o any interfearence at all this is a
conical mt. eng. and has a stright riser the bolts and mounts you are looking
for are the same ones that are used on the old model Piper apache's that have
the 0-320-B3B engines. Hope this info will help .
Pat Patterson RV-6 N314EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "et" <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weak Wing Theory--Hypothesis actually! |
----- Original Message ----- > snip
>
I would never go as far as to make mods to the spar, as I think this is best
left to the designers.
And, I would not be as concerned if this had happened in an obscure
situation involving aerobatics
or something of the sort.
This was a factory aircraft being flown by a competent factory pilot for
demonstration purposes.
People on the seen did not describe the aircraft doing any kind of
aerobatics.
Vans conclusion is that the wing had to have been stressed over 9G, period.
Perhaps the wing
had been stressed previously on another flight by pilot error?
I bought the tail kit after the accident so I knew the whole story up front.
Would still like to see Van
report a bit more on the dynamics of how this might have happened/should be
avoided. Sure,
Van is the manufacturer and is not responsible for training us. But it
would be an interesting spot for
an RVator article (hint hint). :)
Eric Tauch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power our
> engines are producing in flight.
Why? You cant always get what you want, but you get what you need. I would classify
this as a want, IMHO. It is easy to get rough hp numbers from aircraft
performance, and assess changes in hp (from say, a modification) from changes
in performance. When you get down to it, the fun-meter is what is important.
However, finding the perfect in cowl dyno may be just what it takes to max out
your fun-meter. ;-)
Dave Leonard
-6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
--- nowakod(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
>
> Folks, Does anybody out there have a Lycoming
> O320-B2C in an RV-6?
>Gary A. Sobek wrote: Need to look up how the B2C is different from the B2B
that I have in my FLYING RV-6.<
Guys: FWIW I looked in my old Lycoming list and the only difference
it shows between a B2C and a B2B is that the D has a retard breaker mag.
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zehrback Engines & Accessories |
>>>>My phone contact told me that Zehrbach has a long history of developing
engine technology for military and NASA applications, but has had a low
profile in commercial aviation engines. This is the first I've heard of this
broad range of products.<<<<<
There was a very extensive discussion of LPE engines in Marv Kaye's Lancair Discussion
board which has a good archive. (olusa.com) If you search the RV archives
you will also find them mentioned every now and then. People seem to have
widely varying opinions on the quality of the product and support. They also
make a 175 hp turbo intercooled, water cooled engine that could fit in an RV,
but I haven't heard of anyone who has installed it in any airframe.
If the quality of the info pack they send (poor quality photocopies) is reflective
of the quality of the engines, then I would stay away. However, there are
several lancair IV owners who are very setisfied with some of their larger V-8's.
Dave Leonard
-6 QB, planning a Mazda 13B installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Police Strobe Lights |
Here's a link to a strobe kit of four small bulbs. Used on police cars and
other emergency vehicles. $200 for the whole system. This company is called
Big Country
http://www.bcsstore.com/bcssales/shom6xunstro,html
Can any one crunch the brightness numbers on this product? Also, what are
the chances of these not interfering with the intercom system? I would like
to build a system that I don't have to listen to in my headsets.
Here's another company with the only link that is suitable for us.
http://www.lectriclites.com/awayseries.htm
I like the double flash option. Very big iron look. High/low intensity? I'm
guessing we would just leave it on high. Does 35 watts sound like enough
power to run two strobes? More number crunching please, are these going to
be legal? This companies name is LectricLites.
Please post your comments.
Thanks to the person that mailed me these addresses, you know who you are.
Regards,
Norman
RV6A Finishing the ski rack.
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Type "S" epoxy cowl survey |
Hi Scott, I am not at the cowl yet but I am planning to attach it with
Camlocks on the top and screws on the bottom. I am also planning on a Sam
James cowl only because it is ready to go with the sealed plenum and round
inlets.
Were you thinking of producing a round inlet cowl? Would always rather buy
from Van.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A
>
> Any builders that have completed the installation of a type "S" epoxy
> cowl on your project...
> I am interested in whether or not you utilized the molded in side flange
> with screws, camlocks, etc., or did you remove it and do the standard
> hinge installation.
>
> Trying to determine whether the interest/use of this feature is enough to
> retain this as part of the cowl while making some new molds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | re: Throttle arm |
Put a vernier on it. It makes for real precise power adjustments if you're
flying an instrument approach. Used one on a C-140 one time, you'll get
used to the button for full power stuff.
Mike N996RV
>I would like to have a less sensitive throttle control for those small power
>changes.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Painting |
Norm Hunge wrote on 11/9:
I
>had sprayed the wings with Super Koropon Fluid Resistant Primer by
>Courtaulds Aerospace in Mojave California the day before. No extra
attention
>to filling the rivet lines but now that I have read so much on the subject
I
>feel that spraying an extra line along the rivet heads and sanding it off
>would be a good idea just to make sure.
>
>The Super Koropon seems to fill things quite nicely. It is a one to one two
>part primer. Very expensive, I have an unconfirmed report that it was
>designed for the space shuttle. Is any one able to confirm this?
I also used Super Koropon on most of the interior structure when it was
first painted many years ago.
Then, it was manufactured by DeSoto Corp. Gulfstream used it as their
structural primer. When I called DeSoto I had to do some tall talking to
get it in is less than 55 gallon drums. They told me then (15 years ago)
that it was used on the shuttle and by several airline manufacturers. It
has held up well over the years and was easy to apply. I'm glad to hear
that it is still available.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Overcharged Battery |
I really goofed, I think...I left my battery charger on my Concorde battery
for about 4 days..the charger puts out 1 amp at 12V....It does not have a
shutoff feature..the short sides of the battery are swelled out now...is my
battery wasted now? A volt meter is showing 14 Volts..Electric Bob?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> >
> > Anybody else seen the RV8 Weak Wing Theory at
> http://www.rvators.com/?
> > Comments?
> >
I don't intend to get involved in a speculative discussion, but I will
make one comment.
I have a hard time understanding how a person that sees one test wing
outside the shop at Van's can assume that the wing he saw was a "tested
to failure" example of the wings that are now supplied in the kits.
In fact from the description provided of the failure, I know for certain
that it wasn't.
Van is a great designer (though now adays credit goes to quite a few
other people in the prototype/engineering dept also) but that doesn't
meant he gets it right the first time. I'm sure he would like to say
that he designs a wing, we build it, we test it, we have a big
celebration and then ship kits. It doesn't always go that way.
The aforementioned wing was not the same wing (structurally) that is
supplied in kits.
But sorry...other than that, that is about is involved as I am going to
get in this discussion.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery |
>
>I really goofed, I think...I left my battery charger on my Concorde battery
>for about 4 days..the charger puts out 1 amp at 12V....It does not have a
>shutoff feature..the short sides of the battery are swelled out now...is my
>battery wasted now? A volt meter is showing 14 Volts..Electric Bob?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
Time to buy a new battery, sorry.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
Hi
Interested, please send equipment/avionics list, paint scheme etc.
Thank you kindly
Art
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Port O-360 |
Hi,
Is the allen head plug on an O-360 A1A that is located about 1" up and
outboard of the "oil from cooler" line an acceptable location to pick up
oil pressure from. The Lycoming manual shows the oil pressure gauge
connection to be just above the right magneto, however I can't seems to
get a fitting in there without it causing interference with the vacuum
pump.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry, that D should havre been a C!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
Greetings,
I still have a few rolls of the tie wrap string used in aircraft wire
harnesses. It is the aircraft type and is flat braded with a coating on
it to keep it tied. It is great stuff to use. I am selling it at $12 a
roll (500yds) shipping included. I also have other products for use in
building your RV. Contact me off the list with your order, or request
for my other product flyers. Give me your US Postal address for me to
mail you the flyers.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 brake line routing |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 brake line routing:
DWG#49 shows the brake line routed on the forward side of the landing
gear leg. Instuctions Figure 10-2 show that the wood dampening strips
can either go on the front or back of the gearleg. Is drawing 49
referring to an "aft" side installation of the dampeners?
Will a forward mounted brake line interfere with the gear leg/fuselage
attach springs?
Just trying to look ahead.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Police Strobe Lights |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> Here's a link to a strobe kit of four small bulbs. Used on police cars and
> other emergency vehicles. $200 for the whole system. This company is called
> Big Country
>
> http://www.bcsstore.com/bcssales/shom6xunstro,html
>
> Can any one crunch the brightness numbers on this product?
60W total = 60 Joules on average (less a bit for losses in the
circuitry) spread across 4 flash tubes. I guess if you put 2 tubes in
each wingtip, you're going to exceed the FAA 20 Joule (or is it 30 now?)
requirement.
> Also, what are
> the chances of these not interfering with the intercom system?
Who knows? I'd guess that if it's going to be useable in a police car,
it's not going to interfere with their radios. I wonder about FCC
approvals and suchlike. If the cable is shielded, I'm fairly sure that
you could put the PSU in a metal box to shield that. It could still
radiate nasties out through the 12V power supply to it, I guess.
> Here's another company with the only link that is suitable for us.
> http://www.lectriclites.com/awayseries.htm
> I like the double flash option. Very big iron look. High/low intensity? I'm
> guessing we would just leave it on high. Does 35 watts sound like enough
> power to run two strobes?
Well yeah... I found that 7.2W (12V, 0.6A) was enough to run 1 strobe.
But is it bright enough to satisfy the Feds? How about bright enough to
satisfy yourself?
> More number crunching please, are these going to be legal?
Probably. There's no actual requirement to have strobes on a homebuilt,
IIRC from earlier discussions.
It would be interesting to know the size/weight of these units... I
think the limiting factor is the size of the transformer -- a big heavy
transformer can convert more 12V amp to 3KV than a small light one.
> Norman
> RV6A Finishing the ski rack.
So, tell me about this ski rack... internal? Based on Scott Gesele's
design?
Frank
(About ready to start a ski rack)
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery? |
>
>I really goofed, I think...I left my battery charger on my Concorde battery
>for about 4 days..the charger puts out 1 amp at 12V....It does not have a
>shutoff feature..the short sides of the battery are swelled out now...is my
>battery wasted now? A volt meter is showing 14 Volts..Electric Bob?
Hmmm . . . doesn't sound good. The only thing that will
puff out the case is pressure from within. I think the
critter may well be toast . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
I found that the original bolts that held the 0 320 B3B engine on the
Apache were to short to reuse on Vans mount. Suggest you get the bolt set
as available from Vans.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. Raining and 50 degrees F. today.
-----Original Message-----
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com <PASSPAT(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99
>
>John:
> I ran a B3B engine in an RV - 6 w/o any interfearence at all this is a
>conical mt. eng. and has a stright riser the bolts and mounts you are
looking
>for are the same ones that are used on the old model Piper apache's that
have
>the 0-320-B3B engines. Hope this info will help .
> Pat Patterson RV-6 N314EP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99 |
-----Original Message-----
From: nowakod(at)us.ibm.com <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 1:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 11/09/99
>
>Folks, Does anybody out there have a Lycoming O320-B2C in an RV-6?
Don, I am using an 0-320 B3B in my RV6 turning a Hartzell C/S.
I used Lord 6530-1 mounts. They are expensive but worth it. I
originally used a generic soft rubber mount supplied by an engine shop for
an 0-320 . Check the archives under engine mounts. I will give you the old
softer rubber mounts free if you want them. Bite the bullet and get the
correct ones.
My Lycoming book shows the following:
0-320 B1A same as A1A with high compression
0-320 B2A B1A with fixed pitch prop
0 320 B3A B1A with 7/16 prop bolts
0 320 B1B B1A with straight riser in sump & -32 carb
0 320 B2B B2A with straight riser in sump & -32 carb
0 320 B2C B2B with retard mags
0 320 B3B B1A with 7/16 prop bolts,straight riser in sump &
-32 carb
0 320 B3C B3B with retard mags
All above engines are 160 hp, Max rpm 2700 and 8:50:1 compression. All
conical mounts.
Email me direct if you need more info on the mounts.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept.8, 1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I have all the pieces now for a test of a home-brewed LRI based on the
patent drawings. I'm into it less than $45. What's hard to get in Oregon
right now is VFR weather. I'll keep everyone posted. kevin -6a do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Throttle arm |
If you plan on doing any formation flying a vernier is a big pain. If I
were doing it again I would use the old fashion friction lock type throttle.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight sept. 8,1993
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 7:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: Throttle arm
>
>Put a vernier on it. It makes for real precise power adjustments if you're
>flying an instrument approach. Used one on a C-140 one time, you'll get
>used to the button for full power stuff.
>Mike N996RV
>
>
>>I would like to have a less sensitive throttle control for those small
power
>>changes.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery? |
What will happen if I just try to use it? If it holds a charge, cranks the
starter, etc, is everything honky dory? Or do I pose a safety risk?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Thursday, November 11, 1999 4:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Overcharged Battery?
>
>>
>>I really goofed, I think...I left my battery charger on my Concorde
battery
>>for about 4 days..the charger puts out 1 amp at 12V....It does not have a
>>shutoff feature..the short sides of the battery are swelled out now...is
my
>>battery wasted now? A volt meter is showing 14 Volts..Electric Bob?
>
> Hmmm . . . doesn't sound good. The only thing that will
> puff out the case is pressure from within. I think the
> critter may well be toast . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
The ski rack is internal and actually more of a compartment. It has it's own
door opened with 8 Southco Fasteners (not installed yet as I am waiting on
them to arrive from ACS. I have never seen any Southco's so they still have
to pass my quality control exam. I love Camlocks but their price is
prohibitive.). It is quite a large door to accommodate golf bags or
snowboards as well. One really big golf bag or two mid sizers. Should pack
alot of camping gear too.
The compartment is from the longerons up and goes all the way back to the
last upper bulkhead. The whole compartment is skinned in 0.020 and has lots
of runs of standard skin stiffener angle. Short pieces of stiffener angle
attach every bulkhead to the 0.020 . I don't have an extra weigh of it all
but the pieces weight next to nothing when held. The whole thing has to be
under 3 lbs. For some one to do the math I used 16 square feet of 0.020
.This completely sealed compartment does not permit any foreign objects to
get out and into my lower fuselage. It is my version of permanently safe. It
will never allow any thing to jam the elevator pushrods.
The seat belt shoulder harness for the PIC seat runs through the
compartment. At bulkhead 606 there is a contraption made from some 2x2 angle
to support the shoulder harness two inches above the longerons. This is one
inch above stock. The passenger side has been modified to match. The entire
rear baggage compartment is custom made.
Research on the design of restraint systems showed me that this is an area
where the RV6 does not shine. I found more than once that the cable to the
rear is too low. This increases the possibility of spinal compression in an
decelerating accident. No one has any real numbers of course but I feel that
I have mounted my cables one inch better. I use the factory method of the
white plastic at the bulkhead.
This heavy angle has lots of lightening holes in it but on the upright they
are fashioned to take small straps through in four places. This will be the
tie down point of the cargo. I have fit it to use two one inch ratcheting
cargo straps. The skis will stick forward to the back of the pilots seat but
they won't budge when they are ratcheted in.
When not in use the door covers all and one has to look carefully to notice
that some thing has been added. From the out side there is an extra run of
rivets in the top skin just a little off center from F-607 back the last two
sections. These attach the vertical wall of my addition.
This addition has been a major undertaking. I have mega hours in it and a
few pesos as well. I am still not finished as I ran out of angle
temporarily.
I am looking forward to skiing all across North America. I have wanted to
ski Utah, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Quebec and Montana for years. Now I have
only a few more to wait.
Pictures will be awhile to see the whole thing together. I will now turn my
attention to building a second garage that will really be a spraybooth. I
have numerous interior pieces ready for final paint and I want to do better
paint work than I have so far. My wings were done off site in a car booth.
The rest of this ship will be done on my property. When I get them done I
will have them scanned and put into a file that I can email out. I will
notify the list when I am ready but it is likely to be around Christmas.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Police Strobe Lights |
Frank, can you please do the math for an installation where this system was
used with only two of the strobe bulbs? It says that it can be installed
that way.
Thanks, Norman
> > Here's a link to a strobe kit of four small bulbs. Used on police cars
and
> > other emergency vehicles. $200 for the whole system. This company is
called
> > Big Country
> >
> > http://www.bcsstore.com/bcssales/shom6xunstro,html
> >
> > Can any one crunch the brightness numbers on this product?
>
> 60W total = 60 Joules on average (less a bit for losses in the
> circuitry) spread across 4 flash tubes. I guess if you put 2 tubes in
> each wingtip, you're going to exceed the FAA 20 Joule (or is it 30 now?)
> requirement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>
>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power our
>engines are producing in flight. There is the rule of thumb (add the MP and
>RPM and consult the chart) that I have posted on my panel. It is elegantly
>simple. Its drawback is that it does not work. There is the Lycoming
>official chart. Its drawback is that it is not usable by ordinary mortals
>in flight, involving as it does, interpolation, microscopic print, square
>roots and the need for the standard atmosphere to be memorized. The best
>solution I have found is the spreadsheet for the O-360 that Kevin Horton has
>developed (http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html).
>
How about looking here and creating an your own POH.
AIRMANSHIP <http://www.avweb.com/toc/airman.html>
"The Bootstrap Approach to Aircraft Peformance (Part One)"
You say your airplane's POH doesn't have some performance numbers you
need? Or, because of airframe or powerplant modifications, your
factory-original POH performance section is out of date? Or perhaps
you need numbers for your one-of-a-kind homebuilt? Don't despair ...
and don't guess! Now there's an easy way to calculate accurate light
aircraft V-speeds, rates and angles of climb, thrust, drag, and much
more. Aviation physicist and private pilot John T. Lowry shows you
how. (This first installment deals strictly with simple fixed-pitch
prop airplanes; a forthcoming follow-up deals with constant-speed
props and other complications.)
Dave Fried
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>
>>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power
our
>> engines are producing in flight.
>
>Why? You cant always get what you want, but you get what you need. I
would classify this as a want, IMHO. It is easy to get rough hp numbers
from aircraft performance, and assess changes in hp (from say, a
modification) from changes in performance. When you get down to it, the
fun-meter is what is important. However, finding the perfect in cowl dyno
may be just what it takes to max out your fun-meter. ;-)
>
In my case it is mostly a matter of wanting to have some idea of what is
going on. I like to fly pretty fast but don't really want to run over 75%
power. With my underpitched propeller it is easy to excede 75% power, even
at high altitudes.
With the typical factory, fixed pitch prop, airplane this is not a problem.
The propeller is pitched to try to get a maximum of 75% power at 7,000 feet
or so and so, where I live, you can not run more than 75% at normal cruising
altitudes.
And sure, it is a want, so is the whole airplane!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Weak Wing Theory--Hypothesis actually! |
Sure there could be a weak wing, but in real life, it is very hard to apply
G loads symmetrically to both wings. Even when you think you are pulling
symmetric G's you are very likely loading one wing higher than another. If
you have a rudder trim tab, any elevator trim (did you notice the elevator
trim tab is asymmetric), a canted engine mount, are propellor driven and
don't have both wings identically built with the same surface finish, then
the loads you will see on one wing may vary some amout. If you are slipping
or skidding or even more so, have the ailerons deflected one wing may be
seeing more than the other. The rinky-dink G-Meter that you purchase from
Van's can approximate the load the wings see, but depending on your
installation, it may not be very close at all. That said, you don't really
need to know exactly unless you are pushing the envelope.
I have a rinky-dink G-Meter(from Van's) installed in my 6A on the left side
of the panel which is a no-no for an acrobatic airplane. I could have
eliminated a great deal of installation error by mounting it centered close
to the spar. Mine is a cross-country airplane though so that is okay.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery |
On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I really goofed, I think...I left my battery charger on my Concorde battery
> for about 4 days..the charger puts out 1 amp at 12V....It does not have a
> shutoff feature..the short sides of the battery are swelled out now...is my
> battery wasted now? A volt meter is showing 14 Volts..Electric Bob?
There is a good chance you have seriously damaged the battery. The
bulging sides are telling you that there is a lot of pressure in there
and the way you get pressure is to overcharge the battery.
Don't feel too bad tho'. I destroyed one of mine the same way. After
that I purchased a charger with an automatic shut-off.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stafford, David" <david.stafford(at)cybex.com> |
| Subject: | JUNK in QB fuel tank |
Last night I found a piece of masking tape inside my RV-6 QB fuel tank. It
was about 2 inches long by 3/4 wide. It had numerous aluminum chips attached
to it. It was located inside the 2nd rib bay from the root end.
I would never have found this trash if I wasn't making the modification for
a flop tube. The best I can determine was this tape was used as some sort of
assembly aid and was never removed.
Now, I am working on a "tank scope" so I can inspect all the rib bays in
both "QB" tanks.
David Stafford
RV-6 QB (working on $#%*& fuel tank )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lloyd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery? |
On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> What will happen if I just try to use it? If it holds a charge, cranks the
> starter, etc, is everything honky dory? Or do I pose a safety risk?
It probably isn't a safety risk but your battery has probably lost most
of its capacity.
Brian Lloyd
brian(at)lloyd.com
+1.530.676.6513
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/11/1999 2:19:36 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Again, the RV 4/6 wings are proven and apparently can
stand up to Harmon Rocket forces/speeds/weight. Look at the new Exxon Tiger
airplane--a modified RV4 with a wing LONGER than stock by a foot with no
real
"beefing" whatever that really is anyway. What is "beefing" anyway?--beef
here, beef there, b.s. everywhere. JR, A&P
>>
Hi Fellas:
Looks like someone asked a sensitive question!! Some things never change...
The HR/F1 wings will take the higher loads because they are shorter -- it
doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure that one out. The F1 also has
additional material at the spar flange, where the loads are transmitted. The
weak point for this type of spar is at the two 1/4" bolts located just
inboard of the outer skin, but the spar is roughly 130% of what is needed at
gross wt & 9G (using the F1 calculations). Pretty stinkin' strong, eh?
Capable dive speed is way beyond what you would believe...
Exxon Flyin' Tiger:
You know that ship came out of my shop, right?
We told Bruce to keep his speeds and G loads down to normal catagory limits.
Well, the speed aspect went out the window on the first flight (that thing is
fast!), but he does keep the G's down. That ship just isn't that heavy, so
the bending loads on the spar are not as much as would be the case with a
fully loaded Rocket. We DID do some "beefing" to the structure, but more in
terms of increasing the ability of the structure to absorb all that wonderful
horsepower -- not aerobatic capability. The rear spar attach needed some
attention, but not too much.
No BS....OK?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overcharged Battery? |
>
>What will happen if I just try to use it? If it holds a charge, cranks the
>starter, etc, is everything honky dory? Or do I pose a safety risk?
I don't think there's a safety issue. Go ahead and run
it . . . as long as your mission of the day isn't electricritical.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
I'd lost the original piece on Adel clamps but a helpful
builder pointed me to another site where it was republished.
I've captured the article and reposted it at:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/adel.html
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Norman, Alaska has good skiing also!!!
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 10:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ski Rack
>
> The ski rack is internal and actually more of a compartment. It has it's
own
> door opened with 8 Southco Fasteners (not installed yet as I am waiting on
> them to arrive from ACS. I have never seen any Southco's so they still
have
> to pass my quality control exam. I love Camlocks but their price is
> prohibitive.). It is quite a large door to accommodate golf bags or
> snowboards as well. One really big golf bag or two mid sizers. Should pack
> alot of camping gear too.
> The compartment is from the longerons up and goes all the way back to the
> last upper bulkhead. The whole compartment is skinned in 0.020 and has
lots
> of runs of standard skin stiffener angle. Short pieces of stiffener angle
> attach every bulkhead to the 0.020 . I don't have an extra weigh of it all
> but the pieces weight next to nothing when held. The whole thing has to be
> under 3 lbs. For some one to do the math I used 16 square feet of 0.020
> .This completely sealed compartment does not permit any foreign objects to
> get out and into my lower fuselage. It is my version of permanently safe.
It
> will never allow any thing to jam the elevator pushrods.
> The seat belt shoulder harness for the PIC seat runs through the
> compartment. At bulkhead 606 there is a contraption made from some 2x2
angle
> to support the shoulder harness two inches above the longerons. This is
one
> inch above stock. The passenger side has been modified to match. The
entire
> rear baggage compartment is custom made.
> Research on the design of restraint systems showed me that this is an area
> where the RV6 does not shine. I found more than once that the cable to the
> rear is too low. This increases the possibility of spinal compression in
an
> decelerating accident. No one has any real numbers of course but I feel
that
> I have mounted my cables one inch better. I use the factory method of the
> white plastic at the bulkhead.
> This heavy angle has lots of lightening holes in it but on the upright
they
> are fashioned to take small straps through in four places. This will be
the
> tie down point of the cargo. I have fit it to use two one inch ratcheting
> cargo straps. The skis will stick forward to the back of the pilots seat
but
> they won't budge when they are ratcheted in.
> When not in use the door covers all and one has to look carefully to
notice
> that some thing has been added. From the out side there is an extra run of
> rivets in the top skin just a little off center from F-607 back the last
two
> sections. These attach the vertical wall of my addition.
> This addition has been a major undertaking. I have mega hours in it and a
> few pesos as well. I am still not finished as I ran out of angle
> temporarily.
> I am looking forward to skiing all across North America. I have wanted to
> ski Utah, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Quebec and Montana for years. Now I
have
> only a few more to wait.
> Pictures will be awhile to see the whole thing together. I will now turn
my
> attention to building a second garage that will really be a spraybooth. I
> have numerous interior pieces ready for final paint and I want to do
better
> paint work than I have so far. My wings were done off site in a car booth.
> The rest of this ship will be done on my property. When I get them done I
> will have them scanned and put into a file that I can email out. I will
> notify the list when I am ready but it is likely to be around Christmas.
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta, BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Weak Wing Theory |
Message text written by Scott McDaniels:
>I have a hard time understanding how a person that sees one test wing
outside the shop at Van's can assume that the wing he saw was a "tested
to failure" example of the wings that are now supplied in the kits.
In fact from the description provided of the failure, I know for certain
that it wasn't.<
Scott,
I don't go in much for speculation and theory, especially from someone who
was not involved in testing and / or designing. Therefore, I didn't even
bother to read the message referred to. Thanks for clearing this up.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
seat backs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Permanent Magnet alternator overvoltage protection |
My RV4 has the permanent magnet vacuum pad alternator from B & C (SD8)
which has performed flawlessly for 750 hrs. I have an overvoltage
warning light but no crowbar overvoltage protection. After reading Bob
Nuckoll's book (The Aeroelectric Connection), I'me motivated to correct
this flaw.
As background for those unfamiliar with PM alternators, their is no
field wire. The overvoltage protection module must trip a breaker that
powers a relay ("contactor"?) on the alternator output line.
I've checked the archives and The Aeroelectric Website, but couldn't
find the answers to the following questions:
Does anyone have a part number to suggest for the relay on an 8 amp PM
alternator? How about for the 20 amp version that's on my friend's RV?
Do the B&C PM alternators benefit from the output line capacitor
described by Bob (on page Z-7 -note 20- in the book and downloadable
from his website)? I can always go direct to B&C for the answer to this
one but I figure this must be common knowledge for RV-Listers!
Thanks for your help.
Mark
RV-4
KAWO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>
>
>>
>>>IMHO we need to come up with a useable way to figure the amount of power
>our
>>> engines are producing in flight.
>>
>>Why? You cant always get what you want, but you get what you need. I
>would classify this as a want, IMHO. It is easy to get rough hp numbers
>from aircraft performance, and assess changes in hp (from say, a
>modification) from changes in performance. When you get down to it, the
>fun-meter is what is important. However, finding the perfect in cowl dyno
>may be just what it takes to max out your fun-meter. ;-)
>>
>
>
>In my case it is mostly a matter of wanting to have some idea of what is
>going on. I like to fly pretty fast but don't really want to run over 75%
>power. With my underpitched propeller it is easy to excede 75% power, even
>at high altitudes.
>
>With the typical factory, fixed pitch prop, airplane this is not a problem.
>The propeller is pitched to try to get a maximum of 75% power at 7,000 feet
>or so and so, where I live, you can not run more than 75% at normal cruising
>altitudes.
>
>And sure, it is a want, so is the whole airplane!
>
>Larry Pardue
Larry,
If all you are worried about is not exceeding 75% power, it sounds
like the simplest (and cheapest) solution is to use a chart showing
the MP for 75% as a function of altitude and rpm. The ultimate
solution would be an instrument panel mounted device that displayed
the power based on inputs from various sensors. As some have
mentioned, I think one of those is available, but expensive. Another
solution would be to put a program in some sort of hand held
calculator, or small pen based computer, but that would require you
to go heads down to manually input altitude, rpm, MP and temperature.
That sounds like a bit of a distraction.
What engine are you running? If it is the O-360-A, I could probably
modify my spreadsheet
<http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip> to produce power
setting charts, or you could use the chart that Randall Henderson put
up <http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html>.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
Aviation Maintenance ran a article this month on prop indexing...the art of
placing the prop on the crank relative to the starter ring for ballance &
relative to the fireing order of the engine..........maybe not directly related
to your problem but good data that might help reduce the the breaking hinge
eyes. Does your crank have counterweights ?? There may be a harmonic issue
between the crank & the prop. There may not be enough mass in the wood prop is
your instance because remember that the mount rubbers, engine, prop, cowl &
mount are all doing their respective things together & may (in totality)
contribute to the vibs.... How about the Prop dampener ring thingie that Mark
Landrol sells ???. Try to keep the vibes there & jockey the mixture know to
see if it is the transistion of jets theory...... Try a nose hi attitude on
onsought of the vib to see if it is a cowl induced wiggely........just some
thoughts......cheers
bramsec(at)idirect.com on 11/10/99 04:47:16 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine Vibration
RV6 with 320-D2J and Aymar-Demuth Wood Prop.
On base leg with 1550rpm I get a vibration, it starts approx 1400 and
ends 1700rpm. It has been suggested it is the switching over of jets in
the carb. Is anyone else getting a noticable vibration with a wood prop
? It has been balanced and tracked.
Comments please, Peter (Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV spar loads and weak knees |
Sorry, but I am not finished with that beef bone yet. With few mods to a set
of RV4 wings with a center section added increasing their length by about 1
foot Bruce Bohannon blasts off into the sky with the admonnition not to pull
but "moderate" g forces and, hey, while you are at it do not go very fast
either. If I were an executive at EXXON I would, knowing that, pull my
sponsership so as not to have the wing of the Exxon Tiger --with Exxon boldly
scribed upon it--land in some poor unfortunate litigate happy nar do wells
mobile home living room/beer parlor. Sure, tell a hot F1 pilot known for
blowing people out of the sky not to go fast--sure. I guess the RV4 wings
will either hold up or they will fail and the Tiger will auger in ending big
name sponsership for another decade or so. What color roses does he like?
Then of course we will be hearing shortly after about the RV4 Weak Wing
Theory. I have a better hypothesis--the Weak Knee Hypothesis. Simply put,
those of us who have weak knees (scare easily) likely will never discover
that we also have weak wings and of course the opposite implication is
apparent. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JUNK in QB fuel tank |
----- Original Message -----
From: Stafford, David <david.stafford(at)cybex.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 2:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: JUNK in QB fuel tank
>
> Last night I found a piece of masking tape inside my RV-6 QB fuel tank. It
> was about 2 inches long by 3/4 wide. It had numerous aluminum chips
attached
> to it. It was located inside the 2nd rib bay from the root end.
>
> I would never have found this trash if I wasn't making the modification
for
> a flop tube. The best I can determine was this tape was used as some sort
of
> assembly aid and was never removed.
>
> Now, I am working on a "tank scope" so I can inspect all the rib bays in
> both "QB" tanks.
>
> David Stafford
> RV-6 QB (working on $#%*& fuel tank )
>
>
> Hi, david,
it is common and good practise to give all finished sub assy's a good shake
in order to assess whether there is or isn't any rubbish inside the assy.
we use this simple and effective way in Bombardier Aerospace/Shorts brothers
on Global express elevators for example.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>
>
>
>Larry,
>
>If all you are worried about is not exceeding 75% power, it sounds
>like the simplest (and cheapest) solution is to use a chart showing
>the MP for 75% as a function of altitude and rpm. The ultimate
>solution would be an instrument panel mounted device that displayed
>the power based on inputs from various sensors. As some have
>mentioned, I think one of those is available, but expensive. Another
>solution would be to put a program in some sort of hand held
>calculator, or small pen based computer, but that would require you
>to go heads down to manually input altitude, rpm, MP and temperature.
>That sounds like a bit of a distraction.
>
>What engine are you running? If it is the O-360-A, I could probably
>modify my spreadsheet
><http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip> to produce power
>setting charts, or you could use the chart that Randall Henderson put
>up <http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html>.
>
Kevin,
It's looking like maybe the best option is to make charts oriented toward my
use. The chart that Randall has does not come close for me. The max RPM on
it is 2400 RPM. I only get that low in the pattern. His Lycoming chart is
also for one temperature only with no mention of how to correct for
temperature.
I do have an O-360-A but no need to change your spreadsheet. I can easily
develop the charts using it as is.
Thanks,
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Bonding aluminium to cowl was Cowl Attach-Vibration |
Concerning bonding of metal to fiberglass. Try HYSOL from spruce.
wilson rv4
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 6:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bonding aluminium to cowl was Cowl Attach-Vibration
Dave,
Since any adhesive you choose will need to be flexible, why not use ProSeal?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> snipped
> So far, I am planning on using
> an adhesive to bond a strip of alum along the inside lips of the cowls.
This
> will allow a stronger mounting of nutplates while counter sinking the
glass.
> The adhesive bond will spread out the stresses over a wider area. I
haven't
> yet found the suitable adhesive (maybe J. B. Weld). The hinges will be
out
> all together and metal tabs will be used to span the seams.
>
> This should go even faster than fitting hinges and won't add a lot of
weight.
> But I am sure that there is a good reason why it wont work :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
No Peter, not noticeably. I have an -E3D with Collins Walker wood prop.
N985VU
>
>RV6 with 320-D2J and Aymar-Demuth Wood Prop.
>
>On base leg with 1550rpm I get a vibration, it starts approx 1400 and
>ends 1700rpm. It has been suggested it is the switching over of jets in
>the carb. Is anyone else getting a noticable vibration with a wood prop
>? It has been balanced and tracked.
>
>Comments please, Peter (Toronto)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
I'd be really carefull here. If two of those medium size golf bags slide
back to the last upper bulkhead on takeoff rotation they might be putting a
toe-tag on you.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> In my case it is mostly a matter of wanting to have some idea of what is
> going on. I like to fly pretty fast but don't really want to run over 75%
> power. With my underpitched propeller it is easy to excede 75% power, even
> at high altitudes.
>
> With the typical factory, fixed pitch prop, airplane this is not a problem.
> The propeller is pitched to try to get a maximum of 75% power at 7,000 feet
> or so and so, where I live, you can not run more than 75% at normal cruising
> altitudes.
Hmmmm......
Somebody help me out with this one. I was under the impression that it
is impossible to exceed 75% power above approximately 8000' due to the
thinner air, not some combination of rpm and throttle setting. It seems
to me that the underpitched prop would absorb LESS power because the MAP
would be lower at any given rpm than for an engine equipped with a
higher pitched prop.
In any case, you shouldn't be able to exceed 75% power at altitude with
a normally aspirated engine because the air density is too low.
Am I missing something here? Any enlightenment would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | IO360A Induction |
Scott McDaniels,
Never heard from you. The problem you said that you would try to help
with was:
RV8
IO-360-A1B6
Airflow performance injectors
Vans cowling
I only have 1/2" clearance at the bottom of my air intake on the
fuel/air mixer. Don't think that the Vans supplied S-duct will fit
properly. Waiting to cut off the flange. The Airflow unit juts forward
7" from the sump. Ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Throttle arm |
I am using the "old fashion friction lock type throttle" that Van's
sells and like it much, much more than the vernier throttle. I found it
interesting that Mike Segear has the same friction lock cable in his
RV-6 trainer since he also has a strong dislike for the vernier.
You can make very small adjustments with the standard throttle. The RMI
tach has a resolution of ten rpm and it is not difficult to move the
throttle in increments of ten or twenty rpm. More important, the
friction lock throttle is much more intuitive to use in emergency
situations (unless you have been flying a Bonanza for a veeeery long
time...).
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
------------------
Ken Hoshowski wrote:
>
>
> If you plan on doing any formation flying a vernier is a big pain. If I
> were doing it again I would use the old fashion friction lock type throttle.
>
> Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
> Salmon Arm B.C. First flight sept. 8,1993
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 7:39 PM
> Subject: RV-List: re: Throttle arm
>
> >
> >Put a vernier on it. It makes for real precise power adjustments if you're
> >flying an instrument approach. Used one on a C-140 one time, you'll get
> >used to the button for full power stuff.
> >Mike N996RV
> >
> >
> >>I would like to have a less sensitive throttle control for those small
> power
> >>changes.....
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric fuel pump |
Thanks to all who replied. The motor had bad bearings. I took it to a
motor repair shop where they replaced the two ball bearings, brushes and
turned the commutator. Total cost $88.75.
Robert Burns wrote:
>
>
> if the pump has not run dry it probably is a bad motor. i found a new motor
> for mine for about half the price of a rebuilt pump and it has run fine for
> about two years now. about the only thing that will tear the pump half up is
> running it dry.
>
> R. Burns PA30, RV-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 1:51 PM
> Subject: RV-List: electric fuel pump
>
> >
> >Not RV related but yesterday the electric fuel pump sounded strange and
> >sluggish while priming the Cherokee Arrow. While in the landing sequence
> >I turned the electric fuel pump on and it popped the circuit breaker.
> >Is it rebuildable? Anyone had any experience with rebuilt or used pumps?
> >
> >Earl, RV4 getting ready to mount the wings
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV spar loads and weak knees |
Before anyone "blasts off" on a discussion about wings coming off of
anything here, let us choose our words wisely. Talk of airplanes falling in
living rooms etc. is neither accurate nor productive. NO statistic
indicates our airplanes pose any credible threat to persons on the ground.
(long time readers here may recall when I had a similar lapse of good
judgment, and made a similar statement about flying with car engines. Ouch!)
Before you bounce on Mr. Bohannon, remember he is a member of a pretty
exclusive club. Others before him who have performed seemingly impossible
feats and pushed the envelope with some degree of personal risk include
names like, Wright, Lingbergh, Yeager, Rutan... shall I continue? You will
also note that most of that group has bent some tin or broke some sticks and
even found themselves under a parachute or two.
On the subject of sponsorship, whose name was on the indy car that the wheel
came off of and went in the crowd some years back? I don't believe that has
reduced the value of advertising space on the side of a race car.
Rm. Bohannan and those like him have chosen a different course. The
standard of safety for auto racing is different for the drivers than the
spectators. Mr. Bohannan has separated himself from the "spectators" both
literally and figuratively and I, for one, applaud him and wish him
Godspeed!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
> Sorry, but I am not finished with that beef bone yet. With few mods to a
set
> of RV4 wings with a center section added increasing their length by about
1
> foot Bruce Bohannon blasts off into the sky with the admonnition not to
pull
> but "moderate" g forces and, hey, while you are at it do not go very fast
> either. If I were an executive at EXXON I would, knowing that, pull my
> sponsership so as not to have the wing of the Exxon Tiger --with Exxon
boldly
> scribed upon it--land in some poor unfortunate litigate happy nar do wells
> mobile home living room/beer parlor. Sure, tell a hot F1 pilot known for
> blowing people out of the sky not to go fast--sure. I guess the RV4 wings
> will either hold up or they will fail and the Tiger will auger in ending
big
> name sponsership for another decade or so. What color roses does he like?
> Then of course we will be hearing shortly after about the RV4 Weak Wing
> Theory. I have a better hypothesis--the Weak Knee Hypothesis. Simply put,
> those of us who have weak knees (scare easily) likely will never discover
> that we also have weak wings and of course the opposite implication is
> apparent. JR
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Bonding aluminium to cowl |
To all,
I'd like to 2nd what Wilson said below. Here in the R & D fab shop at Aerovironment,
we use several different types of structural adhesives, depending on the
type of job.
When it comes to bonding almost anything together that really needs to stay there,
we use Hysol. There are many different types of Hysol, and we happen to use
9309NA, but I'm sure that the 9430 that spruce sells is just as good. (I'd
really need to look at the spec sheets to see what the difference is). It's the
best stuff that we've had tested. It's the only adhesive used on the Solar
Planes.
There are many places where I've used this product on my -6. Of course it was
past its shelve life and I happened to liberate from the trash :-), but it still
work fine for things like attaching fiberglass tips to the tail, bonding the
scoop on the cowl, hinges to the cowl....all kinds of stuff. The only drawback
it takes about 10 hrs to set up hard, with full strength coming after about
2 days at 75 deg F. (That's true for any high strengh adhesive though).
I'd recommend this as the only adhesive needed (OK, maybe some rivets and a little
proseal) to hold an RV together.
Laird (Not a Hysol sales rep, just a satisfied customer)
RV-6 panel wiring in SoCal
Concerning bonding of metal to fiberglass. Try HYSOL from spruce.
wilson rv4
Dave,
Since any adhesive you choose will need to be flexible, why not use ProSeal?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> snipped
> So far, I am planning on using
> an adhesive to bond a strip of alum along the inside lips of the cowls.
This
> will allow a stronger mounting of nutplates while counter sinking the
glass.
> The adhesive bond will spread out the stresses over a wider area. I
haven't
> yet found the suitable adhesive (maybe J. B. Weld). The hinges will be
out
> all together and metal tabs will be used to span the seams.
>
> This should go even faster than fitting hinges and won't add a lot of
weight.
> But I am sure that there is a good reason why it wont work :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
Thanks, Sam.....I wasn't going to chime in here, because I don't know a
whole lot about engines...An A&P told me the exact same thing, which is why
airplane's performance figures always show 75% at 7or 8 thousand feet,
because if you firewall the throttle at or above those altitudes, that is
all you are going to achieve, relative to the engines performance at sea
level. So, 75% power is not the best way to describe it, because many will
think that means to back off the throttle 25%.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Date: Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Chart
>
>
>Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>>
>> In my case it is mostly a matter of wanting to have some idea of what is
>> going on. I like to fly pretty fast but don't really want to run over
75%
>> power. With my underpitched propeller it is easy to excede 75% power,
even
>> at high altitudes.
>>
>> With the typical factory, fixed pitch prop, airplane this is not a
problem.
>> The propeller is pitched to try to get a maximum of 75% power at 7,000
feet
>> or so and so, where I live, you can not run more than 75% at normal
cruising
>> altitudes.
>
>Hmmmm......
>
>Somebody help me out with this one. I was under the impression that it
>is impossible to exceed 75% power above approximately 8000' due to the
>thinner air, not some combination of rpm and throttle setting. It seems
>to me that the underpitched prop would absorb LESS power because the MAP
>would be lower at any given rpm than for an engine equipped with a
>higher pitched prop.
>
>In any case, you shouldn't be able to exceed 75% power at altitude with
>a normally aspirated engine because the air density is too low.
>
>Am I missing something here? Any enlightenment would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Chart |
>
>
>Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>>
>> In my case it is mostly a matter of wanting to have some idea of what is
>> going on. I like to fly pretty fast but don't really want to run over
75%
>> power. With my underpitched propeller it is easy to excede 75% power,
even
>> at high altitudes.
>>
>> With the typical factory, fixed pitch prop, airplane this is not a
problem.
>> The propeller is pitched to try to get a maximum of 75% power at 7,000
feet
>> or so and so, where I live, you can not run more than 75% at normal
cruising
>> altitudes.
>
>Hmmmm......
>
>Somebody help me out with this one. I was under the impression that it
>is impossible to exceed 75% power above approximately 8000' due to the
>thinner air, not some combination of rpm and throttle setting. It seems
>to me that the underpitched prop would absorb LESS power because the MAP
>would be lower at any given rpm than for an engine equipped with a
>higher pitched prop.
>
>In any case, you shouldn't be able to exceed 75% power at altitude with
>a normally aspirated engine because the air density is too low.
>
>Am I missing something here? Any enlightenment would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
An underpitched prop allows the engine to produce more horsepower under all
conditions. If you turn the engine 2800 rpm it is producing more power than
it would at 2700 rpm at the same manifold pressure. An underpitched prop is
a performance prop. Take note of formula racers and such.
Another factor is that we can produce more mp at the same altitude than a
normally aspirated factory airplane. This is due to the ram air and very
efficient air cleaner system used on RVs. Please compare our air filter to
the normal Cessna and Piper one. There is a big difference. This is likely
about a 1" difference (someone correct me if I'm wrong). That would be the
same mp as a Cessna 1,000 feet lower.
I have found, for reasons I don't completely understand (part of the reason
is that I don't hit full throttle until around 14,000), that my maximum
cruise speed, if I limit the rpm to the factory redline does not vary
appreciably from 5,000 pressure altitude up through 14,000 pressure
altitude. This is not what one will find on a factory airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV spar loads and weak knees |
This business of designing a wing not to come off is not rocket science.
Structural failures of competently built airframes operated within their
design envelopes are exceedingly rare. Where compromises come in is making
the spar light and easy to build. It would not surprise me to hear that Van
broke a few in the process of finding the best compromise of strength,
weight, and ease of construction. Then of course there are the subjects of
workmanship and unauthorized mods by the builder, but even with these
variables RV's have done very well indeed.
Let me also clarify that Bruce Bohannon made a conscious decision to accept
lower maneuvering loads in the Tiger in order to maximize climb performance,
and he has no intention of doing akro in the bird. He has a lovely black RV4
with Mattituck written all over it for making passengers sick and he treats
the Tiger as the special purpose machine it is. Bruce is a hell of a fine
pilot and good friend and he takes his flying very seriously. Exxon went out
of its way to get him on their team and they have done very well indeed.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Kit Zwart" <zwart(at)kalamazoo.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Port O-360 |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 10:58 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Port O-360
>
>
> Hi,
> Is the allen head plug on an O-360 A1A that is located about 1" up and
> outboard of the "oil from cooler" line an acceptable location to pick up
> oil pressure from. The Lycoming manual shows the oil pressure gauge
> connection to be just above the right magneto, however I can't seems to
> get a fitting in there without it causing interference with the vacuum
> pump.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
> I mounted the oil pressure sender on the fire wall with a line which came
straight out from the engine.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian Rendall & Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Pay close attention to your weight and balance here when you get flying.
Weight that far back has a dramatic effect on shifting your cg rearward.
I'm always amazed at the difference in effect weight has in the baggage
compartment versus the passenger seat in my 6A, and your compartment is a
lot further rearward than that. I can see a pair of skis in there maybe,
but golf bags are really doubtful. Take up fishing, fishing rods will
work!
Scott Sawby N341SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid and DG tracking . . . |
November 07, 1999 - November 11, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hg