RV-Archive.digest.vol-hi
November 16, 1999 - November 20, 1999
>about with my close quarter 90 degree drill attachment I got from Avery's..
A 90* close quarter drill is an essential tool IMHO. The Terry is nice.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Problem/Fix |
I'm replying to this just to get it in the archive. Bad product
discussions are a great feature of this list. Disk space is real cheap but
the purchase of crappy products is not. Some companies know their products
are crap but they go on selling them because a PT Barnum said, "There is a
sucker..."
Peugeot was voted by dealers as the worst car available in America.
Toastmaster used to make decent toasters, now they are junk. Now we have a
Cuisinart which is pretty bad too.
Others?
hal
><< I have an Ameri-King ELT purchased from Vans and I had quite some problems
> getting it to work properly. When I put the switch to ARM it would transmit
> and could not be reset by the switch on the unit or the remote switch. I
> called Ameri-King and was given a little procedure to reset the unit and
> wanted to pass it on.
> >>
>I could fill an archive (but won't) with problems I've had trying to reset my
>AmeriKing ELT. Once, while just sitting there on the ramp, I decided to test
>the ELT as one is supposed to do every month. It had been installed and
>sitting in the armed position for about a year without (further) trouble. I
>pushed the panel test button; it activated. I pushed the reset button -
>nothing. Ended up having to shut down the engine, unharness myself, remove
>the ELT from the bracket and turn it off. Needless to say, it wasn't the
>G-switch. They eventually exchanged it for a new one. To this day I am
>afraid to test it; I just hope it works if I ever need it. Boy, am I tired
>of dealing with those folks...
>
>-Bill B
>do archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Engine HP and the RV-8A |
Mea culpa. Bill already corrected my 687 feet to what I meant to
type, which is 6874 feet.
I appreciate the feedback on the question of engine size and will plan
for the 180 HP.
I looked at prices and that extra 20 HP with fuel injection sure costs
a lot of money.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tube plumbing |
Agreed...there are many tasks in the kit that I absolutely could not have
done without it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
>
>A 90* close quarter drill is an essential tool IMHO. The Terry is nice.
>
>hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine HP and the RV-8A |
>
>
>Taking this thought one farther, does anyone have any knowledge of a 160 in
>an 8 or 8A yet. Just wondering as the decision for the power is getting
>closer to being made. Have been planning on a 180 with fixed pitch, but
>just
>looking for any last minute thoughts any of you may have.
>
>Doug Bell
>8QB Mounting landing gear
The O-320 with a constant speed prop in a lightweight RV8 would be a SWEET
setup! It took me several months to find a good, low time O-360, and if I
hadn't been able to find one at all, I might have gone this route.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Primer
>Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 06:25:06 -0600
>
>
> What is a good primer in a spray can that can be used for small
>parts and
>how should I prepare the parts? Please be specific on preperation. I am
>working on bell cranks etc. at my house and the big stuff is at another
> location.
Zinc Chromate from Tempo. An oldie but a goodie! I use Marhyde (now packaged
in the rattle cans as "Galvaprime") on small alloy parts, but it doesn't
stick very well to steel. I use the chromate on steel stuff, then paint them
with aircraft enamel from Tempo.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler |
Does the Navaid Wing Leaveler have a servo on the control (torque tube) or is
directional bias (turning) achieved with servo tab(s) on the flight
survaces.....????
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 11/15/99 05:52:30 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler
It basically replaces your turn coordinator. You can set it to hold a
heading based on input from a GPS or whatever. You can also set to just
hold the wings level and maintain present heading. Or you can just set it
to act as a plain ol' turn coordinator. All controlled from toggle switches
on the faceplate. There is also a built-in trim pot that allows you to
trim the airplane left or right. I believe full deflection on the pot all
gives you a std rate turn.
They don't have installation instructions for an RV-4. They don't have any
installation instructions at all (last I checked). They will send you a
drawing of what other builders of your aircraft have done. They sent me two
different RV-6 installation drawings. One in the fuse and one in the wing.
I figured that the wing installation would match up to a -4 pretty good.
I'm getting one.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:15 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nav Aid Wing Leveler
Can anyone briefly explain what the Nav Aid Wing Leveler
does, who manafactures
it & method of hook-up in the aircraft. Is there a web site
? I failed to
locate a site with the search engines I use. Thanks in
advance . N41RV RV-4
Allllllllmost ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | shaft-driven alternators |
I didn't know such a thing existed. Has anyone on the list used one? What
result?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Something else to think about if you don't use vacuum gyros.
With the
vacuum pad free of a pump, you can mount one of those little
shaft
driven alternators($400) there. VERY reliable track record
on 'em.
Just think, no belts, no cowl rubs, and light weight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Hello,
Caught tail end of this thread, but it made me think of an issue of "Bench
Briefs" from Hewlett Packard. Did some digging and found that the
July-October 1982 issue discusses "Printed circuit Board Rework, Repair,
and Cleaning". I submit it to the list as a cautionary counter balance to
any assumed beliefs that all solder 'flux' is bad and has to removed at all
costs. This particular issue has much more information, pictures,
photographs, etc. I use it as the final word on my soldering procedures and
consider it an excellent primer on electronic soldering techniques. As
usual, manufacturers recommendations supersede. Contact Hewlett-Packard
for possible reprints.
Some excerpts:
FLUX:
Flux aids soldering. In fact, except under special conditions, soldering
is usually not possible without it. Most of the solder used in PC board
repair is 63/37 (tin/lead) flux-core solder. The advantage of flux-core
solder is that it automatically ensures the correct flux/solder ratio if
the proper solder has been selected. Flux-core solder comes in a variety
of diameters and is filled with three types of fluxes: rosin-based, organic
acid (water soluble), and inorganic acid. Flux performs four vital
functions in soldering:
* It chemically removes tarnish films from the base metal.
* It facilitates wetting of the solder to the base metal.
* It aids in heat transfer.
In order for the flux to be effective, it must be operated in the proper
temperature range. If the soldering temperature is too low, the chemical
activators in the flux will not be released and the tarnish will not be
removed. Excessive heating can cause the flux to lose its wetting
capabilities and decompose, leaving a residue that may be very difficult to
remove.
The three types of flux in common use are:
* Rosin-based. A combination of several compounds distilled from the sap
of pine trees.
* Organic acid (water soluble). More active and more corrosive than
rosin-based types. They are normally considered too corrosive for hand
soldering and are used mainly in wave soldering machines that incorporate
thorough cleaning/neutralizing cycles.
* Inorganic acid. Uses a strong acid such as hydrochloric, hydrofluoric or
orthophosphoric as the active agent. Used for soldering heavily corroded
or otherwise difficult-to-solder materials (such as galvanized tin). It is
very corrosive and should never be used for electrical work.;
Rosin-based Flux
Rosin-based flux comes in three primary varieties.
* R-type flux is pure rosin dissolved in a solvent vehicle. Pure rosin has
all the qualities of a good solder flux except that it reduces surface
oxides only very weakly. It is completely noncorrosive and nonconductive
and is suitable for soldering freshly cleaned shiny copper. Rosin also has
the property that when set, it does not absorb water.
* RMA-type flux (Rosin Mildly Activated) has a mild chemical activator
added tor move moderate oxide films from the metal to be soldered. It is
essentially non-corrosive after soldering.
* RA-type flux (Rosin, Fully Activated) has more powerful activators for
tougher soldering jobs. It is generally not recommended for hand soldering
high-reliability PC boards.
When selecting a flux, the idea is to use the lowest activation level that
will do the job. If you are having trouble with inadequate solderability,
you could try a more highly activated flux (although cleaning the leads
and/or improving the heat transfer are usually far better
solutions). Corrosion or electrical leakage problems might suggest going
to a less activated material. Hewlett-Packard recommends RMA-P2-type
solder for all printed circuit board repairs.
Rosin fluxes are also graded according to density, which is the percentage
of solids in the flux. Low-density fluxes flow better while high-density
fluxes cover better. Inadequate coverage would suggest a higher density
while inadequate removal of flux residue during the cleaning process may
indicate a lower density. The P2 in the RMA solder HP recommends contains
2.2% solids.
To Clean or Not to Clean
Clean PC boards are vital to circuit reliability. The activators used in
flux contain a number of ionic contaminants (primarily chlorides) that
corrode circuit traces and promote current leakage under conditions of high
humidity.
However, R- and RMA-type fluxes may safely be left on the board after hand
soldering. RA-type fluxes should not be used for hand soldering of
high-reliability equipment. Should RA flux be absolutely necessary for the
soldering job at hand, or if the flux must be removed for cosmetic or other
reasons, the cleaning procedure must include washing with a bipolar solvent
(Use Reliasolv No.564 by Alpha Metals or MS-190HD by Miller-Stephenson) to
remove the rosin and then careful washing in several baths of progressively
cleaner alcohol/water to remove the contaminants. A final rinse of
distilled or deionized water is also recommended.
Solder flux Rosin Removal - Not Recommended and Why
Hewlett-Packard recommends that solder flux rosin from RMA-P2 (Alpha
Metals) solder not be disturbed and that it be left on the board following
a component replacement.
Recent (1982) research here at HP has revealed that solder flux from RMA-P2
solder does no harm if left in place on a PC board after a hand soldering
operation; the rosin is inert and nonconductive. However, when you
dissolve it with a chemical, attempting to remove it from the board, it is
like pouring oil on water; the rosin flux dissolves and spreads all over
the board, releasing its activators (chlorides, bromides, etc.). Now,
instead of having a harmless blob of rosin flux with the activators
trapped, you have a potential time bomb ticking away. The activators are
water soluble. If the instrument is stored in a humid environment, all it
takes is a little time and moisture to start the corrosion process......
In most cases you cannot see the residue with your naked eye. The board
looks clean but is not.
Other Cleaning Techniques Not Recommended
Several common cleaning techniques and materials have been found to hurt PC
board reliability and should be avoided. For example:
** Dipping loaded PC boards is not recommended because of potential
solvent contamination and damage to some components. The dirty solution
flows into all the hard-to-clean areas (switches, relays and other enclosed
parts) that can't be adequately rinsed. The solution can also attack
electrolytic capacitors and other plastic components.
** Vapor degreasing of loaded PC boards is not recommended for the same
reasons as dipping. Vapors can penetrate hard-to-clean areas just as
easily as the liquid solvent.
** Ultrasonic cleaning of PC boards is not recommended because the
vibration can cause IC internal bond wire failures.
** Cotton tip swabs are not recommended for cleaning because of the fibers
they leave behind. Foam-tipped swabs are better.
** Paper-type cloths are not recommended for cleaning because the tear,
disintegrate and leave fibers behind. Lint free cloth is considerably better.
...............
Respectfully,
Vince Himsl
RV8 wings
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site cleared for departure! |
Louis Cappucci wrote:
> hit the "refresh" button on your browser. this will force a download of the
> new site.
> >
> >When I go to the URL, I still see the old site, I have cleared my cache, any
> >suggestions?
Tried both these suggestions... I still see the old site too.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders in -8 Wing Kit? |
"Hamilton, Thom" wrote:
> If they are separate why aren't
> they in the Accessories Catalog, or are they and I'm going senile before 30?
They are in the Accessories Catalog; I don't like the implications for
you ;-)
> Do they perhaps come with the fuse kit?
No. You need to order them separately. Same goes for the Proseal.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | EGT / CHT question... |
When you use analog gauges for EGT and CHT, do you have sensors on just one
cyl., have multiple gauges, or do you switch between sensors somehow?
Thanks...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Elevators
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frank van der
Hulst
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Senders in -8 Wing Kit?
"Hamilton, Thom" wrote:
> If they are separate why aren't
> they in the Accessories Catalog, or are they and I'm going senile before
30?
They are in the Accessories Catalog; I don't like the implications for
you ;-)
> Do they perhaps come with the fuse kit?
No. You need to order them separately. Same goes for the Proseal.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Engraved Fuel Caps |
I just had my fuel caps engraved by Steve Davis. It really looks sharp!
You can see a picture of them at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/wings.htm
Steve charges $40/pair to engrave them. If we can get 20 or more pairs
together, the price will be $24/pair. If you are interested, email me off
list your name and I will make the arrangements.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders in -8 Wing Kit? |
You are responsible for ordering ( on your own), fuel
guages,wire,instruments,interior,paint,engine,prop,fuses,
switches,circuit,battery, breakers,throttle,mixture & prop cablecraft cables, AN
fittings, hose(s),selector valves,stick grips, stainless tape.......basically,
just about anything in VANs catalog is required so as a friend of mine said
"order one of everything from vans catalog now and save a bundle in picking &
shipping charges". \
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz on 11/16/99 02:51:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Senders in -8 Wing Kit?
"Hamilton, Thom" wrote:
> If they are separate why aren't
> they in the Accessories Catalog, or are they and I'm going senile before 30?
They are in the Accessories Catalog; I don't like the implications for
you ;-)
> Do they perhaps come with the fuse kit?
No. You need to order them separately. Same goes for the Proseal.
Frank.
--
frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz Frank van der Hulst
My home page is http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~frankvdh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Web site cleared for departure! |
Hi all...
My problem with Van's new web site appears to be a DNS (Domain Name Server)
route cache problem, or the new IP for Van's new web site has not been
propagated to my ISP's DNS server...
In any case, if you are unable to access the new site via:
http://www.vansaircraft.com , you should be able to access it via the IP
Address: http://209.15.46.248/
Happy surfing!
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Elevators
http://vondane.tripod.com
> >When I go to the URL, I still see the old site, I have cleared my cache,
any
> >suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler |
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Does the Navaid Wing Leaveler have a servo on the control (torque
> tube) or is
> directional bias (turning) achieved with servo tab(s) on the flight
> survaces.....????
Typical installations have the servo mounted under the passenger seat
and connected to the torque tube, or mounted out in a wing and
connected directly to the aileron bellcrank (see Sam Buchanan's
installation). Inside pros: easier to install, maintain. Inside cons:
Some think lateral action will impart pitch movement. Users I have
spoken with say this is either not happening or if so, is not
noticable.
Wing-mounted pros and cons are the opposite.
Mine's going inside.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)aol.com |
Guess I've got to throw my two cents in the GYRO question.
Whether it's a spam can or homebuilt you're considering, one of your first
actions when choosing an airplane should be to Define Your Mission. Are you
looking for a fast cross country machine for interstate trips to visit the
kids/grandkids/girlfriend etc? Is just a Saturday afternoon hop for a $50
dollar hamburger your typical flight? Or are you looking for a day VFR
fighter to engage in Buster inspired missions whenever your hectic
workschedule permits. Do you need short field performance? Are folding
wings with a trailer home option important to you?
These are the questions you need to ask not only when deciding which airplane
to build (or buy) but also in deciding how you want it equipped. If you read
Van's brochures, his original concept for these airplanes was light, simple
sportplanes. Of course, virtually every homebuilt design out there has
examples that have been built with every gizmo available. As a builder, our
decision is to decide how OUR airplane will be used, and equip it
accordingly. Of course, if you're thinking about resale value down the road
or changing your mission later on, that's a consideration too. It's a lot
easier to install the wiring for pitot heat say, or to drill out panel holes
for gyros (to be blank for awhile) when in the building phase than after the
airplane is flying. But consider this, every item that is NOT installed is
an item that doesn't have to be paid for, doesn't take the additional time to
install, and is an extra ounce or pound that doesn't increase your empty
weight/decrease your useful load/ decrease your performance.
If you're only going to fly day VFR and have the discipline to stick with
that limitation, no gryos and no lights will do you just fine. Sticking with
a VFR mission but building in an emergency capability, maybe a NAVAID wing
leveler or a conventional turn needle, nav lites, panel lites, strobe, single
landing light. A Full house IFR machine; now you're talking multiple gyros,
full lighting, pitot heat, and the radios to match. How about power sources
for the gyros - vacuum and electric? Dual Alternators? Again, how much do
you need and what can you pay for; in dollars, added complexity, and
additional weight. As there are a lot of new people on the list I again
highly recommend checking out the article by Dean Hall in the May 1994 issue
of Sport Aviation. Dr. Hall and his son built an IFR capable RV-4 with
electric and vacuum gyros (but no failure prone vacuum pump), dual
alternators and batteries, oxygen system, on-board fire suppression system,
etc. An excellent example of a builder who defined his mission and equipped
his airplane accordingly.
Doug Seward
Seattle area
Wings, moving into new shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shaft-driven alternators |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
>
> I didn't know such a thing existed. Has anyone on the list used one? What
> result?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
> Something else to think about if you don't use vacuum gyros.
> With the
> vacuum pad free of a pump, you can mount one of those little
> shaft
> driven alternators($400) there. VERY reliable track record
> on 'em.
> Just think, no belts, no cowl rubs, and light weight.
>
See page 230 of Aircraft and Spruce's 1999-2000 catalog. Never used
one, but you could use two lightweight batteries with a lightweight
alternator(belt driven) and a vacuum pad mounted spline driven
alternator(only 3.7lbs) and have a total redundant electric system. Use
all electric gyros. You would have a system that would be very close to
bullet proof ,IMHO.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
I'm a retired 767 pilot and from my understanding it was designed that way in
case of a control jam on one side, Iforget the technical engineering in
the design.
GeeJaa1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shaft-driven alternators |
Steve,
I have seen good results from the B&C vacuum pump pad alternators. The only
down fall is that it is a little more difficult to get the oil screen off.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 9:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: shaft-driven alternators
>
> I didn't know such a thing existed. Has anyone on the list used one?
What
> result?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
> Something else to think about if you don't use vacuum
gyros.
> With the
> vacuum pad free of a pump, you can mount one of those
little
> shaft
> driven alternators($400) there. VERY reliable track
record
> on 'em.
> Just think, no belts, no cowl rubs, and light weight.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine HP and the RV-8A |
I've got a 160hp 0-320 in mine with a FP Sensenich. Barring any unforseen
problems I should be flying soon. I'll post the results. Whether 150,
160, 180 or 200 you're gonna have a strong airplane.
Bill Pagan
N565BW
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Taking this thought one farther, does anyone have any knowledge of a 160 in
>an 8 or 8A yet. Just wondering as the decision for the power is getting
>closer to being made. Have been planning on a 180 with fixed pitch, but just
>looking for any last minute thoughts any of you may have.
>
>Doug Bell
>8QB Mounting landing gear
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Engine HP and the RV-8A |
Consider a parellel valve O-360 with high compression pistons to boost it to
190HP. From what I've heard, the stock IO-360 really only puts out about
195HP, and a parallel valve engine without counterweights will be about
35lbs lighter with only 5 less HP. Bart Lalonde of Aero Sport Power, or any
of the other reputable engine rebuilders will be able to give some info on
this. After alot of research, I believe it's a pretty good balance of power
and reliability.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe3(at)home.com
www.tabshred.com/moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator/stick breakout force, balance, and clearance |
During final assembly of my RV-6A (just before trucking it to the
airport) I noticed some items that I'm not sure of:
1. I balanced the elevators before painting, and after
painting/installation I found that (surprise) the elevators are now aft-
heavy. If necessary, I can drill off the elevator's fiberglass tips (yuk)
and add more weights. Do I need to do that?
2. When I tightened the bolts/nuts that hold the elevator's pivot
bearings to the HS, I found that the elevators don't swing nearly as
free as they did when the bolts were untightened. This "stickiness"
occured on both elevator halves as I tightened the bolts. It takes
about 12 oz of force on the control stick to "break" the elevator's
resistance to motion. All of that resistance appears to be comming
from the elevators, as the control linkage from the stick all the way to
the elevator horn is smooth as glass. Is this resistance normal?
3. What's the recommended clearance between the forward edge of
the counterweighted portion of the elevator and the "notch out" of
the HS that the elevator swings thru? I have 1/16 to 1/8" clearance.
More painting pictures are now at my web site. Pictures of the truck
hauling the plane to the airport will follow when I develop the next roll
of film.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders in -8 Wing Kit? |
>
>On a related question, does anyone out there know if these will
>work with just about any fuel monitoring system, e.g. the Matronics' product
>or E.I. products?
>Rick Jory
Rick,
The Matronics FuelScan does not measure fuel quantity, so it is not
connected to the fuel senders. It has a fuel flowmeter that measures
the rate at which fuel is flowing from the tank to the engine. You
input the amount of fuel in the tanks, and it calculates how much has
been burned and how much should be remaining. It does a bunch of
other stuff too. But, it does not directly measure the amount of
fuel remaining. It does give you a very accurate idea of how much
fuel is remaining, but it will lie to you if you have leak (i.e., the
actual amount remaining will be less than the indicated amount if you
have a leak), and it doesn't tell you how much of the remaining fuel
is in each tank.
E.I. makes a fuel quantity indicator that does connect to the Van's
supplied S.W. fuel senders. I believe they also make a fuel computer
which is similar to the FuelScan.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CIHAPET12(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine for sale |
I have an 0-360-A1A core engine for sale. Will need either a new or used
serviceable crank. Price............$5000. Contact off list by e mail
components. Engine is currently fully dissassembled. Steve Ciha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
I am using the Sherwin Williams GBC self-etching primer. It is easy to use
and covers well and adhers great. To prep I just use a metal cleaner and a
paper towel, let it dry and paint. Works great and cost about $5.15 a can.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
Living in Hawaii we prime a lot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Just had a thought since most all of the gauges i ordered are on backorder
i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same boat! Why don't we take
a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the complete set of Vans Gauges
!!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse panal ! Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood prop.
Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I understand the only other
possibilities are an engine with an under performing cylinder or the
prop may have been carved with different pitch angles on opposite
blades.
Am I missing anything ?
Considering dynamic balancing although the balance guy says wood props
change their balance with the seasons (moisture content) and the balnce
would change making a dynamic balance pointless. Anyone dynamically
balanced a wood prop, results ?
The other possibility would be a harmonic balancer on the flywheel,
would this correct a dynamic out of balance ?
Looking foreward to comments, Peter (Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Doug,
You wrote a very interesting $.02 worth. I haven't started building an RV6
yet but I am hoping to start
building within the next 2 years. I am in the process of doing all of the
research, and trying to decide
exactly what I plan on doing with the plane. I am going to see if I can
order a back issue of that 1994
issue. Thanx again for the input.
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)nospam.swbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Seward747(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gyros
>
> Guess I've got to throw my two cents in the GYRO question.
> Whether it's a spam can or homebuilt you're considering, one of your first
> actions when choosing an airplane should be to Define Your Mission. Are
you
> looking for a fast cross country machine for interstate trips to visit the
> kids/grandkids/girlfriend etc? Is just a Saturday afternoon hop for a $50
> dollar hamburger your typical flight? Or are you looking for a day VFR
> fighter to engage in Buster inspired missions whenever your hectic
> workschedule permits. Do you need short field performance? Are folding
> wings with a trailer home option important to you?
> These are the questions you need to ask not only when deciding which
airplane
> to build (or buy) but also in deciding how you want it equipped. If you
read
> Van's brochures, his original concept for these airplanes was light,
simple
> sportplanes. Of course, virtually every homebuilt design out there has
> examples that have been built with every gizmo available. As a builder,
our
> decision is to decide how OUR airplane will be used, and equip it
> accordingly. Of course, if you're thinking about resale value down the
road
> or changing your mission later on, that's a consideration too. It's a lot
> easier to install the wiring for pitot heat say, or to drill out panel
holes
> for gyros (to be blank for awhile) when in the building phase than after
the
> airplane is flying. But consider this, every item that is NOT installed
is
> an item that doesn't have to be paid for, doesn't take the additional time
to
> install, and is an extra ounce or pound that doesn't increase your empty
> weight/decrease your useful load/ decrease your performance.
> If you're only going to fly day VFR and have the discipline to stick with
> that limitation, no gryos and no lights will do you just fine. Sticking
with
> a VFR mission but building in an emergency capability, maybe a NAVAID wing
> leveler or a conventional turn needle, nav lites, panel lites, strobe,
single
> landing light. A Full house IFR machine; now you're talking multiple
gyros,
> full lighting, pitot heat, and the radios to match. How about power
sources
> for the gyros - vacuum and electric? Dual Alternators? Again, how much
do
> you need and what can you pay for; in dollars, added complexity, and
> additional weight. As there are a lot of new people on the list I again
> highly recommend checking out the article by Dean Hall in the May 1994
issue
> of Sport Aviation. Dr. Hall and his son built an IFR capable RV-4 with
> electric and vacuum gyros (but no failure prone vacuum pump), dual
> alternators and batteries, oxygen system, on-board fire suppression
system,
> etc. An excellent example of a builder who defined his mission and
equipped
> his airplane accordingly.
>
> Doug Seward
> Seattle area
> Wings, moving into new shop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
This feature is required by FAR part 25 certification. It is to be used in
case of control jams. We have a similar system in the Challenger. Sine I
don't know the control system in the Boeing, I won't give all the detail in
the Challenger as it could be very different. Though not subject to
FAR's, the B-1B also has a disconnect for control jam protection.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler |
To those who have Navaids in their RV-8's: Did you go with the wing or fuse
installation? I'm about to get one while I'm doing my wings, because I
don't know if I should wait until the fuse or not.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Thompson
> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 5:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler
>
>
> --- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does the Navaid Wing Leaveler have a servo on the control (torque
> > tube) or is
> > directional bias (turning) achieved with servo tab(s) on the flight
> > survaces.....????
>
> Typical installations have the servo mounted under the passenger seat
> and connected to the torque tube, or mounted out in a wing and
> connected directly to the aileron bellcrank (see Sam Buchanan's
> installation). Inside pros: easier to install, maintain. Inside cons:
> Some think lateral action will impart pitch movement. Users I have
> spoken with say this is either not happening or if so, is not
> noticable.
> Wing-mounted pros and cons are the opposite.
> Mine's going inside.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
There was a complete set of Van's gauges on display at
the GoldenWest Fly-in on 12 September 1999. They
looked great! How many people have ordered them WAY
before they needed them?
--- Tom Ervin wrote:
> Just had a thought since most all of the gauges i
> ordered are on backorder
> i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same
> boat! Why don't we take
> a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the
> complete set of Vans Gauges
> !!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse
> panal ! Tom in Ohio
>
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ignition wire clamps |
Does anyone know where to find the adel clamps that hold two ignit. leads? Or
is everyone just crushing a regular clamp to an oval shape?
Ed Storo rv-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: experimental crash/florida |
anybody know what happened down there today in the everglades? Some kind of
experimental went down with two people.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
> . . . . . Dr. Hall and his son built an IFR capable RV-4 with
>electric and vacuum gyros (but no failure prone vacuum pump), dual
>alternators and batteries, oxygen system, on-board fire suppression system,
>etc. An excellent example of a builder who defined his mission and equipped
>his airplane accordingly.
Dean was my first builder to put in a 2-alt/2-bat system . . . that's
been over ten years ago now. I've got dozens of builders doing it
now. It's NOT a new idea, leading edge technology, nor un-proven
architecture. Definitely not well used in the TC world but I
predict that the majority of airplanes started 5 years from
now will NOT get a vacuum pump.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire clamps |
Mine came with my Slick Mags and harness.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: ERSF2B(at)aol.com <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition wire clamps
>
>Does anyone know where to find the adel clamps that hold two ignit. leads?
Or
>is everyone just crushing a regular clamp to an oval shape?
>
>Ed Storo rv-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator/stick breakout force, balance, and clearance |
In a message dated 11/16/99 5:55:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< During final assembly of my RV-6A (just before trucking it to the
airport) I noticed some items that I'm not sure of:
1. I balanced the elevators before painting, and after
painting/installation I found that (surprise) the elevators are now aft-
heavy. If necessary, I can drill off the elevator's fiberglass tips (yuk)
and add more weights. Do I need to do that?>>
Tim-
Probably, but I'd wait until you fly it before doing anything rash. Based on
what I've read, it is better to overbalance than to underbalance elevators.
This is not necessarily true of ailerons and rudders.
<<2. When I tightened the bolts/nuts that hold the elevator's pivot
bearings to the HS, I found that the elevators don't swing nearly as
free as they did when the bolts were untightened. This "stickiness"
occurred on both elevator halves as I tightened the bolts. It takes
about 12 oz of force on the control stick to "break" the elevator's
resistance to motion. All of that resistance appears to be coming
from the elevators, as the control linkage from the stick all the way to
the elevator horn is smooth as glass. Is this resistance normal?
No. The true beauty of the RV control system is that everything is so light
that you just have to think about where you want to be and you're there. You
will probably benefit from shimming with washers on either side of your
center bearing as a side loading of the hinges may occur when you bring both
elevator halves together.
<< 3. What's the recommended clearance between the forward edge of
the counterweighted portion of the elevator and the "notch out" of
the HS that the elevator swings thru? I have 1/16 to 1/8" clearance. >>
Some compost airplane builders shave their clearances down to around .050".
Some may disagree, but I think this is a bad idea for a working plane. Ice
and stuff can lodge in small gaps. I kept mine intentionally at 3/16".
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine HP and the RV-8A |
I've got a 160hp 0-320 in mine with a FP Sensenich. Barring any unforseen
problems I should be flying soon. I'll post the results. Whether 150,
160, 180 or 200 you're gonna have a strong airplane.
Bill Pagan
N565BW
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william. >>
Bill,
Thanks for the future posting on your 160, it will be interesting and helpful
to see.
Doug Bell, 8QB....Gear Legs successfully mounted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire clamps |
In a message dated 11/16/99 8:10:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, ERSF2B(at)aol.com
writes:
> Does anyone know where to find the adel clamps that hold two ignit. leads?
Or
>
> is everyone just crushing a regular clamp to an oval shape?
>
> Ed Storo rv-8
Hi Ed. We carry them, but have not put them up on our site. So I scanned a
photo and put up a page for you and others.
It's Oval Tube Clamps
or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page76.html
Look and see if this is what you need let me know sizes and I'll finish the
page on Wednesday wit prices etc. Too late tonight!
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | HOW TO Page:More Solder Seal |
Hello RVer's: New How To page up @ Solder Seals For Small
Tabs or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page74.html
Subject: An easier way to solder to small tabs on switchs/servo/or what ever
else. Please take a look and let me know if these are of interest and I'll
put up a catalog page for them.
Thanks.
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chicago area Rv'ers |
Are their any builders in the Northwest or west burbs in the Chicago area
that may have an 8 underway to look at or even the way out chance at one
finished for a ride?
I will be in Buffalo Grove on Sat, Sun this weekend and the Aurora area a
little as well. If not are their any 4's or 6's that gather on Saturday AM's
anywhere that a northern Michigan builder might be able to stop in and see.
Would love to buy some gas for someone if the weather is decent in exchange
for a short hop to tide me over until spring.
Thanks, respond off list to
dbell(at)manisteenational.com or glfrdug(at)aol.com
Doug Bell, 8QB
N266DB(reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOW TO Page:More Solder Seal |
By all means, put it in there...I wish I had these when I wired the dsub
connector on my intercom!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com <AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: HOW TO Page:More Solder Seal
>
>Hello RVer's: New How To page up @ HREF="http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page74.html">Solder Seals For Small
>Tabs or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page74.html
>
>Subject: An easier way to solder to small tabs on switchs/servo/or what
ever
>else. Please take a look and let me know if these are of interest and I'll
>put up a catalog page for them.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Best regards,
>
>John @AAMR/AirCore
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Nav Aid Wing Leveler |
> To those who have Navaids in their RV-8's: Did you go with the wing or
fuse
> installation? I'm about to get one while I'm doing my wings, because I
> don't know if I should wait until the fuse or not.
Larry,
I bought one and will be installing it in the fuse. Will probably get to it
around Christmas.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, trimming flaps
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site cleared for departure! |
(To reply, send to: jeremy(at)infoav.com)
Greetings:
I believe we were included in the Friday 5pm zf update, so incomplete
propagation is a possible candidate.
The old pages were left on the old server, so this is likely what you saw.
Since then, they have been removed. You should now get a relocation
message.
If anyone created a bookmark to Van's site when it was being served
exclusively by the mirror server, make sure to change your bookmark to the
URL www.vansaircraft.com as we no longer use the mirror server and the IP
address is now invalid.
message, and it cut off the last line:
As always...comments, feedback, and suggestions are welcome:
jeremy(at)infoav.com
(Note this is not the address I'm sending this message from.)
Thanks and enjoy the new site,
Jeremy Benedict
jeremy(at)infoav.com
BTW: If zone files, propagation, mirrors, IP addresses, etc. don't mean
anything to you and you are having problems accessing the site, please let
me know and I'll try to help.
> Hi all...
>
> My problem with Van's new web site appears to be a DNS (Domain Name
Server)
> route cache problem, or the new IP for Van's new web site has not been
> propagated to my ISP's DNS server...
>
> In any case, if you are unable to access the new site via:
> http://www.vansaircraft.com , you should be able to access it via the IP
> Address: http://209.15.46.248/
>
> Happy surfing!
>
> Bill Von Dane
> RV-8A N912V (reserved), Elevators
> http://vondane.tripod.com
>
> > >When I go to the URL, I still see the old site, I have cleared my
cache,
> any
> > >suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong size bolt spec'd? |
> Can't see any other way it would work with bellcrank centered. But, I
> know there are builders who left it centered and put a washer or two
> under the bolt head to raise the bolt and have threads bearing the
> loads.
Jerry,
Some well respected builders suggested this to me also but I could not
bring myself to put a skinny AN3 nut on such an important bolt. For the
sake of remaking 4 spacers, I wasn't going to compromise.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
Guys,
Hate to be a pain-But
Lets keep this topic focused to RVs and reduce the bandwidth.
Scott wrote:
>
>
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers
If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
two alternator power distribution schematic.
It is on the Matronics FTP web server
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/pulic/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | old accessories catalog |
Does anyone have the accessories catalog .pdf file that was on Van's old web
site?
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
slowly moving stuff to the airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
Peter, I tried it but it is not available. David Deffner F1Rocket
N212TR in Feb.
----------
> From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
> To: RV-list
> Subject: RV-List: Schematic
> Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 6:56 AM
>
>
>
> Listers
>
> If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
> two alternator power distribution schematic.
>
> It is on the Matronics FTP web server
>
> ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/pulic/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
> --
> Peter Laurence
> RV6-A Wings
> plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
Peter I think the right link should be.
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net/Velpower.dwg
Watch those capital letters..... The ftp site cares...
Greg Yotz
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Schematic
>
>
>Listers
>
>If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
>two alternator power distribution schematic.
>
>It is on the Matronics FTP web server
>
>ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/pulic/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A Wings
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg(at)controlvision.com (Greg Yotz) |
Peter I think the right link should be.
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net/Velpower.dwg
Watch those capital letters..... The ftp site cares...
Greg Yotz
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Schematic
>
>
>Listers
>
>If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
>two alternator power distribution schematic.
>
>It is on the Matronics FTP web server
>
>ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/pulic/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A Wings
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Placard |
I was trying to decide upon a method of placarding the fuel tanks
when I noticed the latest thread on the engraved fuel caps. They look
very nice,, and if you thumb through the catalogs, you will find a
mix of "approved" placards.
Now my question,,
Is it a requirement to have the quantity placarded at the tank? Or is
it sufficient to just have the minimum octane and type. On my
airplane, I have the quantity displayed next to the fuel gauges, both
usable and unusable. So, must I still display the quantity out on the
wing??
Thanks,,,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Getting Error Message... Will not let me in.
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 3:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Schematic
>
>
> Listers
>
> If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
> two alternator power distribution schematic.
>
> It is on the Matronics FTP web server
>
> ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/pulic/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
> --
> Peter Laurence
> RV6-A Wings
> plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
Derrick,
Yes, you must also have qty. on the wing next to the fueling point as well
as minimum octane.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Derrick L. Aubuchon <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 6:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Placard
>
> I was trying to decide upon a method of placarding the fuel tanks
> when I noticed the latest thread on the engraved fuel caps. They look
> very nice,, and if you thumb through the catalogs, you will find a
> mix of "approved" placards.
>
> Now my question,,
>
> Is it a requirement to have the quantity placarded at the tank? Or is
> it sufficient to just have the minimum octane and type. On my
> airplane, I have the quantity displayed next to the fuel gauges, both
> usable and unusable. So, must I still display the quantity out on the
> wing??
>
> Thanks,,,,
> Derrick L. Aubuchon
> n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: 200hp insurance |
Scott sent this direct to me. It's good info on the insurance differences of
the 180 vs. 200 hp engine. Evidently, there really aren't any.
Brian Denk
>From: "Skysmith" <skysmith(at)mindspring.com>
>To:
>Subject: 200hp insurance
>Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 08:55:17 -0600
>
>As an insurance agency that deals with custom built aircraft AND Vans
>aircraft...there is no difference with the insurance for the 180 to the
>200. In fact, the underwriters will probably confirm that if you are
>flying
>an experimental aircraft many of the normal concerns (complex, high
>performance) really won't matter.
>
>If you have any other questions feel free to contact me. I do seminars
>around the country on buying and selling aircraft, insurance and more. I
>also am a columnist for Private Pilot and Cessna and Piper magazines and a
>write articles for custom planes.
>
>Scott Sky Smith
>(800)743-1439
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitive senders |
Just thinking ahead a bit here.
I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
senders?
Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
outboard?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | DON'T WAIT ANY LONGER! |
If your waiting for that ultimate post that will either:
A) Make you finally feel guilty enough to contribute.
B) Make you laugh so hard you give up and pull out your credit card.
C) Make a contribution in hopes that these pleas will just go away.
Well DON'T wait any longer......It just isn't going to happen. I have been
watching and waiting for something interesting to be posted like Matt's
ride last year in Brian Lloyd's YAK and subsequent picture of a hairy
Pillsbury Doughboy to make fun of but it just hasn't materialized. The list
has been VERY active with things like bolt lengths, engine horsepower,
gyro's, new web sites and flux removal.
Now this stuff would give Steve Martin or Robin Williams a hard time to
find material in. (Anyone want to take a stab at making an aileron
bellcrank post funny?) Well I'm reading all these and it comes to
me......this is what the lists are all about. Exchange of information. I
read a couple of posts of new guys getting information that will help them
make a decision about the airplane they choose to build and how to equip
it. On the RV-List I learned how control surfaces on B-767's can be
operated independently of each other and when and when not to remove solder
flux from an electronic project.
My point is that there is a ton of stuff that we are all learning from ALL
of these lists. All you have to do is read it. You also have the added
capability of asking questions if there is something you don't understand
and getting a timely answer from someone for clarification. This HAS to be
worth something to you. It should be. Why not dig deep right now and figure
out what that amount is? I'm sure can can come up with some figure. Well,
write it down and divide it by twelve and take a look at what it would cost
you per month for all that entertainment/information/insight. It's really
not all that much is it? Please click on the secured URL below or write a
check out right now and know that you have been instrumental in making all
of this possible. Thanks for reading this and sorry I couldn't think of
anything better to write but I need some seed material..............AL
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: Schematic" (Nov 17, 5:24am)
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
>--------------
>
>
>Listers
>
>If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
>two alternator power distribution schematic.
>
>It is on the Matronics FTP web server
>
> <...>
>--
>Peter Laurence
>RV6-A Wings
>plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
>
>--------------
Sorry, there were a couple of typos in the URL. Here is the correct
location:
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net/Velpower.dwg
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg(at)controlvision.com (Greg Yotz) |
Peter I think the right link should be.
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net/Velpower.dwg
Watch those capital letters..... The ftp site cares...
Greg Yotz
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Schematic
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: STC'd Trim/Locking Fuel Caps Phone # |
I posted on the net a few weeks ago on a rather neat alternative to the MAC
trim devices that so many RV'ers are using. I choose to use the STC'ed
Aero-Trim systems because there are thousands flying on factory built aircraft,
are STC'ed and were offered to me by Norm for the same price as the MAC units.
I figured the STC'ed with all the testing and hoops that the developer had to go
thru made this a easy solution for me . The MAC's are apparently great devices
& I know the Aero-trim eleavator,rudder & aileron trim units are great too.
Its nice to have a choice.
Aero Trim also markets locking fuel cap locks that when installed look 100%
factory produced & are of great quality. It is basically a mini circular tumbler
lock insert that you install on your fuel caps.
Aero-Trim, inc
1130 102 Street
Bay Harbor, FL. 33154
305-864-3336 (fax -5454)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
David Deffner wrote:
>
>
> Peter, I tried it but it is not available. David Deffner F1Rocket
> N212TR in Feb.
lISTERS,
SORRY ABOUT THIS TYPO
TRY AGAIN
>
> ----------
> > From: Peter Laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
> > To: RV-list
> > Subject: RV-List: Schematic
> > Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 6:56 AM
> >
> >
> >
> > Listers
> >
> > If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
> > two alternator power distribution schematic.
> >
> > It is on the Matronics FTP web server
> >
> > ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/public/plaurenc(at)bellsouh.net/velpower.dwg
> > --
> > Peter Laurence
> > RV6-A Wings
> > plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Peter Laurence
RV6-A Wings
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
I have all the guages, except the MP. The factory 8A has one so I know
they exist. I wish they would build a OAT.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
==================================================
writes:
>
>Just had a thought since most all of the gauges i ordered are on
>backorder
>i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same boat! Why don't we
>take
>a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the complete set of Vans
>Gauges
>!!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse panal ! Tom in
>Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
I fail to see the need for inverted fuel readings.....do you intend to fly for
such a sustained period that fuel consumption while inverted is a concern ?? A
quick glance at the ammount of fuel via the guage & a mental calculation of
flight time since fuel addition to tanks is all that I would think is necessary
before flooping the RV over.. It would seem that you should have a concern with
some sort of inverted oil system before you have a concern with fuel
quanitity while inverted ??
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net on 11/17/99 11:59:25 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
Just thinking ahead a bit here.
I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
senders?
Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
outboard?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
The capacitive senders seem to me to be an especially good choice for
inverted tanks. I am just building my RV-8 tanks with the capacitive
senders. They don't intrude on the bay where the flop tube goes at all, and
there is no need to cut a hole in the rear baffle for the float-type sender.
These senders should be just as accurate, with or without a flop tube. I
decided to put a flop tube in one tank after I saw the how the senders
mounted.
Terry Watson
RV-8A tanks
Seattle
>
> Just thinking ahead a bit here.
>
> I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
> with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
> that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
> an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
> senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
> levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
> senders?
>
> Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
> 'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
> outboard?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
The elevators (and ailerons) are "split" for the same reason that hey
have 2's of everything else; redundancy. In the case of flight controls
it is in case one control surface becomes jammed the other can still be
used. Essentially the left control yoke flies the left elevator and
aileron and the right does the right side. The coupling between the
elevators and ailerons is only with the torque tube connecting the
control yokes. There is a spring loaded mechanism that if given enough
torque will "break" free and allow the free control surface to be
"flown" with only its control yoke.
Ever notice the elevators on a DC-9? The control yoke only moves the
control tab (looks like a trim tab) so the elevators are free to assume
any position they want. Sometimes a 9 will be on the ground with one
elevator up and the other down. They stay this way until enough airflow
centers them. More than one 9 pilot has been asked if he knew that his
tail was broken.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
Hi Ken:
I really don't think you will have any trouble with the capacitance senders
in regards to inverted flight.
As to how they mount, they do not mount on the access plate. In fact, you
will need to order a plate without the cutout for the Stewart-Warner float
sender, or construct a patch to cover it. I opted for a new plate. The
sender plates mount on the second from the end rib from the root and the
second rib from the end on the tip end of the tank. Very easy installation
I might add. If you would like some pics of my installation, send me a
message off list.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
On to the second wing (haven't I done this before??!)
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 10:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
>
>
>Just thinking ahead a bit here.
>
>I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
>with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
>that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
>an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
>senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
>levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
>senders?
>
>Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
>'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
>outboard?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Aileron rigging |
I am having problems with rigging my ailerons:
1) I cannot achieve minimum (15 degree) down right aileron deflection. The
bellcrank hits the 3/4x3/4x0.063 vertical angle. I have checked the
bellcrank dimensions and the angle placement and all are per plans (dwg 19a,
R3) to within 1/32 inch. I tried lengthening the bellcrank-to-aileron
pushrod and shortening the control stick-to-bellcrank pushrod, but that
seems to introduce other problems in differential deflection symmetry. Any
suggestions?
2) At full left turn deflection the control stick hits the F617L rib and
actually deflects it outboard 3/6 by the time full aileron travel is
reached. The rib flange is cut off to the web and a new one riveted to the
opposite side. The same problem occurs with full right turn deflection, but
the rib interference is not as severe about 1/8 deflection of rib.
Suggestions?
3) Are spacers used (dwg 16, R13) with the Heim F314M ball end bearing in
the A607 aileron bracket? I see no callout in dwg 16 nor mention in the
plans. I DID make spacers to center the bearing, but now the ball hangs up
severely on the spacer at full down aileron. I used the same tubing called
out for other spacer fabrication. What do you suggest?
P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance group
because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web site I see
no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention to a
pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance gone
away?
Thanks listers!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
>
>Now my question,,
>
>Is it a requirement to have the quantity placarded at the tank? Or is
>it sufficient to just have the minimum octane and type.
>
>Thanks,,,,
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>n184da(at)pacbell.net
I question whether or not this is even necessary. Ive seen many RVs with no
placard at all. If the placard is required how did these guys get by
without? What if 80/87, 100LL, and auto fuel are all OK for your airplane?
How would the placard read then?
Mike Wills
RV-4 canopy (finally almost done!)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
They aren't happy with the MP gauge and are having it reworked. It will be
available soon. So sayest Ken at Golden West.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: donspawn(at)juno.com [mailto:donspawn(at)juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 10:03 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Vans RV Gauges
I have all the guages, except the MP. The factory 8A has one
so I know
they exist. I wish they would build a OAT.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
==================================================
writes:
>
>Just had a thought since most all of the gauges i ordered
are on
>backorder
>i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same boat!
Why don't we
>take
>a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the complete set
of Vans
>Gauges
>!!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse panal !
Tom in
>Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
I dont know how they got by without it....
On any aircraft the fuel type and qty are to placarded on next to the fill
point..
Your placard would read -----
80/87 Octane Minimum
XX Gallons Capacity
Auto fuel is higher than 80/87 so you list the lowest Octane which is 80/87
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
> I question whether or not this is even necessary. Ive seen many RVs with
no
> placard at all. If the placard is required how did these guys get by
> without? What if 80/87, 100LL, and auto fuel are all OK for your airplane?
> How would the placard read then?
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 canopy (finally almost done!)
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitive senders |
Ken...
Did you have to buy anything other than the $50 Capacitive Fuel Sender Kit,
and the EI FL-2C? I just called Van's and they said I needed a converter
for each tank for around $50 each as well to use a capacitance gauge...
I am trying to verify that the Grand Rapids Technologies EIS4000 can read
the Van's capacitance sending units... The folks at Grand Rapids said their
unit supports capacitance sending units that operate in the 0 to 5 volts
range. They sell Skysport and Princeton Electronics capacitance sending
units for use with their unit... Do you know what the EI gauge supports?
Any help would be appreciated...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved), Elevators
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
Just thinking ahead a bit here.
I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
senders?
Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
outboard?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
Ordered mine in September, got a backorder card saying estimated ship date
December 99.
Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Re: old accessories catalog |
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the one
above!
http://209.52.184.209/sections/catalog/ -- I reenabled the permissions...
Good luck,
Jeremy Benedict
jeremy(at)infoav.com
> Does anyone have the accessories catalog .pdf file that was on Van's old
web
> site?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Japundza
> slowly moving stuff to the airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Earlier today I read the post on fuel cap engraving by Steve Davis. the
price seemed higher than it should be. I remembered that Gary Van Vortel
has engraved caps on his "6a", sooo I looked up who Gary had used in the
Yeller Pages (THANKS GARY):-- Engraphix Corp, 1335 2nd Ave North "Suite
K", Fargo ND 58102. (701)237-6560 and called them. I talked with the
owner Breck, he remembered doing Garys caps and quoted me $10.00 each
plus $5.00 return shipping for both. This price encludes "Enameling"
down in the engraved area in your choice of color. Turn around is
usually a week or less. I guess my caps ( I have three) are going take a
little trip to North Dakota.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
by webmail.bwn.net with SMTP; 23 Nov 1999 05":13:01.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: 6A Aileron rigging |
URL: http://www.bewell.net/
>
> I am having problems with rigging my ailerons:
>
> 1) I cannot achieve minimum (15 degree) down
right aileron deflection. The
> bellcrank hits the 3/4x3/4x0.063 vertical angle.
I have checked the
> bellcrank dimensions and the angle placement and
all are per plans (dwg 19a,
> R3) to within 1/32 inch. I tried lengthening the
bellcrank-to-aileron
> pushrod and shortening the control
stick-to-bellcrank pushrod, but that
> seems to introduce other problems in
differential deflection symmetry. Any
> suggestions?
Dennis, this may seem really basic, but have you
checked to make sure the bellcranks are installed
with the correct orientation?
>
> 2) At full left turn deflection the control
stick hits the F617L rib and
> actually deflects it outboard 3/6 by the time
full aileron travel is
> reached. The rib flange is cut off to the web
and a new one riveted to the
> opposite side. The same problem occurs with full
right turn deflection, but
> the rib interference is not as severe about 1/8
deflection of rib.
> Suggestions?
>
> 3) Are spacers used (dwg 16, R13) with the Heim
F314M ball end bearing in
> the A607 aileron bracket? I see no callout in
dwg 16 nor mention in the
> plans. I DID make spacers to center the bearing,
but now the ball hangs up
> severely on the spacer at full down aileron. I
used the same tubing called
> out for other spacer fabrication. What do you
suggest?
>
I did not center the rod end bearing in the
aileron bracket. From memory, mine are off center
towards the tip.
> P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's
Builders' Assistance group
> because they are the designated experts.
However, on the new web site I see
> no way to send an Email to Van's for
assistance. I only see mention to a
> pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has
builders' assistance gone
> away?
I have always just sent my questions to
support(at)vansaircraft.com and gotten timely replies
Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
Ken,
The capacitance fuel senders will work fine with the inverted fuel system.
I am installing the capacitance senders in my tanks, and am also equipping
them for conventional senders. I had the conventional senders already, and
I will have them as a backup (not installed). The capacitance senders look
great, but they can not be repaired if a bad electrical connection develops
in the future. The senders are installed in the second bay in from each
end.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 10:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
>
> Just thinking ahead a bit here.
>
> I've ordered the capacitive senders with my wing kit, as I intend to go
> with the E.I. fuel gauge (as well as the rest of the E.I. gauges, for
> that matter), and I'm wondering about how these senders will work with
> an inverted tank. Specifically, will an inverted tank using these
> senders suffer from the same inability to accurately indicate low fuel
> levels, as would an inverted tank using the 'regular' float-type
> senders?
>
> Also, do the capacitive senders mount in the access plate used by the
> 'regular' senders, or do they also need to be installed one bay
> outboard?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> Awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
I failed to mention that Steve does not charge for shipping, and although he
does not give you a choice in color for the fill, they are filled with black
on request. The thing is, most people paint their caps with their airplane
anyway, so the filled in color is a non issue. The filled in color on the
caps are only good if you are going to polish them.
So the bottom line is that if you aren't gonna polish yours, Steve's are $1
cheaper, and he does a heck of alot for RV builders, and the aviation
community in general.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 4:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
>
>Earlier today I read the post on fuel cap engraving by Steve Davis. the
>price seemed higher than it should be. I remembered that Gary Van Vortel
>has engraved caps on his "6a", sooo I looked up who Gary had used in the
>Yeller Pages (THANKS GARY):-- Engraphix Corp, 1335 2nd Ave North "Suite
>K", Fargo ND 58102. (701)237-6560 and called them. I talked with the
>owner Breck, he remembered doing Garys caps and quoted me $10.00 each
>plus $5.00 return shipping for both. This price encludes "Enameling"
>down in the engraved area in your choice of color. Turn around is
>usually a week or less. I guess my caps ( I have three) are going take a
>little trip to North Dakota.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
>
> I dont know how they got by without it....
> On any aircraft the fuel type and qty are to placarded on next to the fill
> point..
I don't know of any FAR that requires a label such as this. Can you
cite your source?
Tim
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
In a message dated 11/17/99 7:16:04 AM Central Standard Time,
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net writes:
<<
Hate to be a pain-But
Lets keep this topic focused to RVs and reduce the bandwidth.
Scott wrote:
> >>
Whats the problem? I've enjoyed reading about it.
Mike Rawls RV wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Electrical Noise |
Guys,
I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
out there?
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
(wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
>
>
> Earlier today I read the post on fuel cap engraving
> by Steve Davis. the
> price seemed higher than it should be. I remembered
> that Gary Van Vortel
> has engraved caps on his "6a", sooo I looked up who
> Gary had used in the
> Yeller Pages (THANKS GARY):-- Engraphix Corp, 1335
> 2nd Ave North "Suite
> K", Fargo ND 58102. (701)237-6560 and called them. I
> talked with the
> owner Breck, he remembered doing Garys caps and
> quoted me $10.00 each
> plus $5.00 return shipping for both. This price
> encludes "Enameling"
> down in the engraved area in your choice of color.
> Turn around is
> usually a week or less. I guess my caps ( I have
> three) are going take a
> little trip to North Dakota.
Engraved fuel caps can also be had in Southern
Californa from an RV-6A builder/flyer Werner Berry.
http://www.aeroengraving.com/
There is a photo of his caps on the web.
I paid $20 exchange 3 years ago. Do not know what the
price is today. We fly together several times a
month. I will ask next time we fly.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
----- Original Message -----
| From: | Joe Waltz <TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net> |
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 10:50 AM
>
> The elevators (and ailerons) are "split" for the same reason that hey
> have 2's of everything else; redundancy. In the case of flight controls
> it is in case one control surface becomes jammed the other can still be
> used. Essentially the left control yoke flies the left elevator and
> aileron and the right does the right side. The coupling between the
> elevators and ailerons is only with the torque tube connecting the
> control yokes. There is a spring loaded mechanism that if given enough
> torque will "break" free and allow the free control surface to be
> "flown" with only its control yoke.
>
> Ever notice the elevators on a DC-9? The control yoke only moves the
> control tab (looks like a trim tab) so the elevators are free to assume
> any position they want. Sometimes a 9 will be on the ground with one
> elevator up and the other down. They stay this way until enough airflow
> centers them. More than one 9 pilot has been asked if he knew that his
> tail was broken.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen D. Metzger" <smetzger(at)ma.ultranet.com> |
LeRoy,
I started on the empennage of an RV-8A a couple of months ago. Prior to
starting I bought the RV builders kit from Aircraft & Speciality (I think it
was the middle-grade option). The majority of the items are from US
Industrial Supply. I have not been overly impressed with the quality of
some of the items. For example, the squeezer was a little wimpy. I have
since bought items, including a new squeezer, from Avery and have been very
satisfied with the quality of those items. In spite of the cheesiness of
some of the tools though, I still think it's probably an OK buy as long as
you are prepared to purchase some replacement items. Purchase some 5/16
clecos (4) as you'll need them when attaching the HS413 brackets and they're
not in the kit.
One admonition; Do not buy the Aircraft Spruce C frame rivet guide. It is a
piece of junk. Mine came out of alignment and even when re adjusted, there
is still a lot of slop in it.
Hope this helps.
-Steve Metzger
RV-8A Horizontal Stab
-----Original Message-----
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com <JhnstnIII(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, November 14, 1999 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Speed brake
>
>Thanks--I'm LeRoy Johnston, live in Columbus,OH. It's been interesting
>seeing how this discussion group works. I hope to start pounding rivets on
>the tail kit in February. By the way, does anyone have any opinions about
>the RV-6 tool packages in the Aircraft Spruce & Specialty catalog?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Another How To Page |
Hello Listers:
New How To Page...with a little help from a friend! AAMR/AirCore-The Bob
Haan Solution or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page77.html
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | RV-4 Trim Tab Cutout (SK-6?)... |
Hi RV Builders!
I seem to have lost my RV-4 Trimtab cutout sketch from the manual. I
believe it is Sk-6. I'm working on the left elv. skin and need the
cutout measurments. Would someone be so kind as to FAX me a copy of
SK-6??? Or, even scan and email it to me?
Thanks!
FAX: 925-606-6281
EAMIL: dralle(at)matronics.com
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | tooling questions from orlando |
Hello RV Listers, I'm your newest member. I've decided that an RV is in my
future, likely my immediate future. I think I'll put a tail section crate
under my christmas tree. :) My question revolves around the tools
necessary to build this incredible sounding aircraft. I've built several
Porsche race cars, race bikes, and racing jet skis so fabrication is not new
to me, but aircraft fabrication certainly is. Ok, now to the question.
Avery tools sells kits filled with necessary tools for the RV. Are these
kits worthwhile, complete, necessary, yada yada yada. I'm sure, if this
list is anything like the Porsche list, this question is nothing new. In
fact, it's likely one of those irritating questions that all the new guys
ask when they show up here. Bear with me for just a little while, I'm new
to this but you'll find I catch on rather quickly. Oh, and if any of you
are in central Florida, I'll gladly trade you a day of 400+ hp turbo charged
Porsche excitement at the race track for a bit of you showing me the ins and
outs of RV's. :)
Blue skies
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
Several builders asked me to describe the single battery/two alternator
system that B&C just STC'd onto the Bonanazas and soon to be on the
C-210. With enhancments for adding electronic ignition and essential
bus, I've posted the document in our update/errata files at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/errata.html
BTW . . our new server hardware out in Colorado has been having
heartburn . . . AGAIN. Thanks to listers for the feedback. As I've
just uploaded the new drawing and checked it for downloadability,
I think everything is working for now.
Given that the components for this installation are FAA/PMA/STC
approved, they're now strong candidtates for installs under a 337
in other aircraft.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
Where does one get Autocad and how much does it cost?
Marty Emrath RV6 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Schematic [URL Correction]
>
> >--------------
> >
> >
> >Listers
> >
> >If anyone is interested, I uploaded a Autocad 14 file of a one battery
> >two alternator power distribution schematic.
> >
> >It is on the Matronics FTP web server
> >
> > <...>
> >--
> >Peter Laurence
> >RV6-A Wings
> >plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
> >
> >--------------
>
> Sorry, there were a couple of typos in the URL. Here is the correct
> location:
>
> ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net/Velpower.dwg
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
Count me in Paul, and I will be polishing.
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
Look at FAR 23.1557(c)(1)(i)(A)(B)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Trim Tab Cutout (SK-6?)... |
Matt,
I will fax you tomarrow. I have it down at the hanger.
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Trim Tab Cutout (SK-6?)...
>
>
> Hi RV Builders!
>
> I seem to have lost my RV-4 Trimtab cutout sketch from the manual. I
> believe it is Sk-6. I'm working on the left elv. skin and need the
> cutout measurments. Would someone be so kind as to FAX me a copy of
> SK-6??? Or, even scan and email it to me?
>
> Thanks!
>
> FAX: 925-606-6281
> EAMIL: dralle(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-4 Builder
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
In a message dated 11/17/99 9:54:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, emrath(at)home.com
writes:
<< Where does one get Autocad and how much does it cost? >>
A few thousand dollars for the real enchilada. AutoCAD Lite used to sell for
a few hundred dollars. Many of us use it at work and so get to leverage it
for home use.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings for Vert/Horz Stab |
I would like to use nutplates and #6 screws, rather than poprivets, to
attach the fairings on the vert/horz stab.
I am wondering if I need to do anything special (like making AL backing
strips) to attach the nutplates to the fiberglass? Should I just drill
the nuteplate holes into the fiberglass and countersink the rivet holes
(for AN 426 rivets) just as I would do when riveting nutplates to a
(thick >.032) aluminum skin? Or, should I skip the rivets and attach
the nutplates with Hysol/Proseal (I've never used either product)?
I plan to dimple the aluminum skin and countersink the fiberglass using
a dimple/countersink for a #6 screw. Does that sound right?
I'm pretty sure I'm making the proverbial mountain out of a mole hill.
I had to take a year off from building just as I was about to finish my
empennage, so now I'm a little shakey as I pick up from where I left
off.
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
Marty-
I use "TurboCAD v4" at home- cost about $20-50 at software discounters.
Drawings translate very well to AutoCad (which I use at work) with a few
minor bugaboos (text sometimes acts weird) but AutoCad files open and
edit fine on it.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
> In a message dated 11/17/99 9:54:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, emrath(at)home.com
> writes:
>
> << Where does one get Autocad and how much does it cost? >>
>
> A few thousand dollars for the real enchilada. AutoCAD Lite used to sell for
> a few hundred dollars. Many of us use it at work and so get to leverage it
> for home use.
>
> -GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Judy and Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Folks
Am building RV-6 empennage, and I have done a trial fit of my
r-404/spar/skin assy using the skin as the jig to locate the rib (like
we do on the HS and VS). Dunno why this method of locating the ribs on
the spars isnt used in the instructions.
I found that this resulted in the R-404 to R-602 rivets having marginal
edge distance in the rib flange.
I am assuming these are AN470AD4 rivets (the drg doesnt even mention
them which is appalling for primary structure).
To give adequate edge distances it looks like I will have to drag the
rib "down" a little which will make dimpling and rivetting the rib to
skun joint interesting as the rivets will be biased towards the rib web.
Also the edge distance of the rib to spar rivets to the rib flange "end"
is very marginal, maybe 3/32 at best. One option of course is to remove
the flange before final assy and rivet on a "cleat" bracket but that
should be a lst resort.
Anybody encountered this problem, and overcome it, or have I got a part
below tolerances. ??
Many thanks in anticipation
Graham Murphy
The land of the America's cup (just dont mention the rugby though).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
>
>Look at FAR 23.1557(c)(1)(i)(A)(B)
>
>
FAR 23 is not applicable to homebuilts. It is for type certified aircraft.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
In a message dated 11/17/99 7:35:11 PM, rv8er(at)home.com writes:
<http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit>>
Paul... I second that. He spent the better part of a day hauling me around
Memphis to see some of his panel work. His engraved overlays are spectacular.
Steve is a real aviation enthusiast and does what he can to promote it. He
will get my caps next time I am through Memphis. (maybe I will send them
while your orders are there and already set up on the machine)
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vondanes" <vondanes(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
AutoDesk [the makers of AutoCad / AutoCad Lt.] also have a product
called Whip. It allows you to view DWF files from your web browser.
Maybe someone can save the file in DWF format...
You can get a copy of it here:
http://www.autodesk.com/products/whip/index.htm
You may also get their Volo View Express, which allows you to view and
print DWG, DWF, and DXFT files, and is also free. It is at the bottom
of the link above...
Bill Von Dane
RV-8A N912V (reserved) Elevators
http://vondane.tripod.com
_
_
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 3:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Schematic [URL Correction]
Marty-
I use "TurboCAD v4" at home- cost about $20-50 at software
discounters.
Drawings translate very well to AutoCad (which I use at work) with a
few
minor bugaboos (text sometimes acts weird) but AutoCad files open and
edit fine on it.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schematic [URL Correction] |
>> << Where does one get Autocad and how much does it cost? >>
Take an engineering student to lunch and then slip him
$150 or so to visit the university books store and pick
up a copy of AcadLT 98. Incidenly, the "LT" stands for
lap-top. This version of AutoCAD doesn't do all the
LISP and 3D things that it's close cousing AcadR14 does
but I've been using both the full featured and LT versions
for years. The LT version does EVERYTHING I need to do.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
>
> I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
>radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
>long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
>the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
>the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
>this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
>also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
>to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
>out there?
>
Turn coordinators are high on the list of potential
noise generators. What you describe is consistent with
noise conducted out of the TC and onto the bus via its
14v power lead. Try putting a filter in the leadwires
to the TC. Radio Shack has an inductor, capacitor combo they
sell for about $4. It will need to mount in a small "project
box". I generally wire up the components with a pair of
goesinta and goesouta wires through grommets. The RS
part number for electrical components kit is 270-030.
I've published a copy of a drawing describing a power
conditioner we used to build at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/pwr_cnd.pdf
which you are welcome to download and use for guidance
on fabrication of your own noise filter.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
>New How To Page...with a little help from a friend! HREF="http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page77.html">AAMR/AirCore-The Bob
>Haan Solution or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page77.html
Using male/female pairs of Fast-Ons in the middle of a
wire run is not recommended since tension in the runs
is not controlled by service loops like you do where wires
drop out of bundles and onto things like switches and
fuse blocks. Further, finding PIDG style terminals in
the male Fast-On is difficult. I've never had my hands
on any and AMP doesn't make them.
Service disconnects in wire runs are better fabricated
from knife-splices or wrist-locks. The former are quite
common, the later are prefered but hard to find. We
used to use them a lot on piston Cessnas Waaayyyyy back
when but haven't seen any new production of these parts
in years. The goal is to have a service disconnect with
as much tensile strength as the wire itself.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Aileron rigging |
>
>I am having problems with rigging my ailerons:
>
>1) I cannot achieve minimum (15 degree) down right aileron deflection. The
>bellcrank hits the 3/4x3/4x0.063 vertical angle. I have checked the
>bellcrank dimensions and the angle placement and all are per plans (dwg
19a,
>R3) to within 1/32 inch. I tried lengthening the bellcrank-to-aileron
>pushrod and shortening the control stick-to-bellcrank pushrod, but that
>seems to introduce other problems in differential deflection symmetry. Any
>suggestions?
I had the same problem. Best I could get was 13 degrees down. I could not
find any adjustment that would change this. I concluded that the hinge
brackets bolted to the aileron were possibly a "tad" high resulting in
slightly less travel. I left things the way they were.
>2) At full left turn deflection the control stick hits the F617L rib and
>actually deflects it outboard 3/6 by the time full aileron travel is
>reached. The rib flange is cut off to the web and a new one riveted to the
>opposite side. The same problem occurs with full right turn deflection, but
>the rib interference is not as severe about 1/8 deflection of rib.
>Suggestions?
Trim away the rib until it doesn't touch.
>3) Are spacers used (dwg 16, R13) with the Heim F314M ball end bearing in
>the A607 aileron bracket? I see no callout in dwg 16 nor mention in the
>plans. I DID make spacers to center the bearing, but now the ball hangs up
>severely on the spacer at full down aileron. I used the same tubing called
>out for other spacer fabrication. What do you suggest?
The ball end bearing is not centered. It is offset to one side. I believe
there is a drawing for this but I'm at work so I can't check. It needs to
be offset so it doesn't interfere with any parts. It is possible (and
probably necessary) to get the ailerons to travel to full deflection in both
directions without touching any part of the structure except the down stops.
>
> P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance group
>because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web site I
see
>no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention to a
>pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance gone
>away?
>
>Thanks listers!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
Not so. My first homebuilt was placarded at the fill point with only fuel
type. There are many decals available from various sources that only states
fuel type. My fuel capacity was placarded inside the cockpit.
This doesn't necessarily make it correct, but that's the way it was. Never
had a problem from the inspector.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting........horizontal stabilizer over again!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryan E. Files <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap Placard
>
>I dont know how they got by without it....
>On any aircraft the fuel type and qty are to placarded on next to the fill
>point..
>Your placard would read -----
>80/87 Octane Minimum
>XX Gallons Capacity
>Auto fuel is higher than 80/87 so you list the lowest Octane which is 80/87
>**** Bryan E. Files ****
>Ever Fly Maintenance
>Palmer, Alaska
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
>
>> I question whether or not this is even necessary. Ive seen many RVs with
>no
>> placard at all. If the placard is required how did these guys get by
>> without? What if 80/87, 100LL, and auto fuel are all OK for your
airplane?
>> How would the placard read then?
>>
>> Mike Wills
>> RV-4 canopy (finally almost done!)
>> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Leonid meteor shower from an RV |
I needed something new to do with my RV? This time every year the Leonid
meteor shower is visible in the eastern sky. Last night I convinced my
son that the viewing would be better from a really high vantage point.
So... at 11:30pm we launched into the night sky for look. My son has
also never flown at night so it was a double thrill for him. I just
don't do a lot of night flying accept to stay current with circuits
every 2-3 months but this was an exception.
We headed southwest towards Lake Erie to get away from the lights of
Toronto and surrounding area and climbed to 9500'. There was a thin high
layer over Kitchener which ended about 25 miles to the south. As I
circled over Tillsonburg airfield (hey you just never know and night
flying isn't my most favourite thing) we turned the panel lights off and
waited for the show. Leo rose shortly after midnight which is supposed
to be the prime viewing time.
There is nothing more cool than sitting in your favourite warm airplane,
under a clear bubble (tip up canopy), with the tunes playing and
watching a celestial display. Your point of view is certainly different
from what all the poor flatlanders get.
My son remarked as we were driving home far after our bedtimes that the
best thing was how I could turn runway lights on and off by keying the
mike. Guilty as charged. We hit them all as we flew overhead.
Terry Jantzi (tired but happy)
RV-6 C-GZRV (undamaged by meteorites)
Kitchener
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Forward from Compuserve forum |
We nearly lost a friend last week. His RV-4 had a starter problem, he
switched the mags & master off and got out to check- while moving the prop
it not only fired but started and smacked him across the left hand behind
the knuckles. fortunately he fell backwards away from the prop and the
aircraft did not move. at the hospital there were no broken bones. I talked
to him several days later and his mag checks were normal..so the P leads
were ok. BUT if you think about the mag switch- the off position is a
different set of contacts- turns out his off position was intermittent,
brand new out of the box switch from Vans with <100 hrs on the
airplane..keep checking the real "off" once in a while. be careful out
there! Dave Buffalo, NY (how bout our Flutie)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
23.1557 Miscellaneous Markings and Placards.
(a) Baggage and cargo compartments, and ballast location. Each baggage and
cargo compartment, and each ballast location, must have a placard stating
any limitations on contents, including weight, that are necessary under
the
loading requirements.
(b) Seats. If the maximum allowable weight to be carried in a seat is
less than
170 pounds, a placard stating the lesser weight must be permanently
attached to the seat structure.
(c) Fuel and oil filler openings. The following apply:
(1) Fuel filler openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with-
(i) For reciprocating engine-powered airplanes-
(A) The word "Avgas"; and
(B) The minimum fuel grade.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
Bob,
Having read this post, I couldn't help but wonder whether a single
alternator, two battery system wouldn't make more sense from a reliability
standpoint. When I did MTBF studies for the power systems I designed for
NCR, the battery was the highest failure rate item by a long shot.
Personally, here in Arizona, you are lucky to have one last 18 months. My
diesel truck had both die in 14 months. I would be interested in hearing
your opinion as to which option is preferable.
Bill Christie - RV-8A, left wing tank
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram
>
> Several builders asked me to describe the single battery/two alternator
> system that B&C just STC'd onto the Bonanazas and soon to be on the
> C-210. With enhancments for adding electronic ignition and essential
> bus, I've posted the document in our update/errata files at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/errata.html
>
> BTW . . our new server hardware out in Colorado has been having
> heartburn . . . AGAIN. Thanks to listers for the feedback. As I've
> just uploaded the new drawing and checked it for downloadability,
> I think everything is working for now.
>
> Given that the components for this installation are FAA/PMA/STC
> approved, they're now strong candidtates for installs under a 337
> in other aircraft.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> ================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings for Vert/Horz Stab |
Mark,
You can go straight with the nutplates on the fiberglass but it is not
advisable. It is much more preferable to use an aluminum backing plate and
to not even put the nutplate rivets through the fiberglass at all. The best
way is to construct the backing plate with the nutplates then to bond/glue
the strip to the fiberglass. Over the long haul you will much happier with
this, especially if you plan on removing the tips every year during the
yearly condition inspection.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
Installing canopy (nervously!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tooling questions from orlando |
Bill,
My experience is close to yours. I maintained a 1971 911S for 17 years and
mistakenly believed I had enough tools to build an RV-8A. I wound up
spending about $1400 for tools for sheet metal working. I bought Cleveland's
package and a Sioux drill on sale from them. I also got Avery's squeezer and
after building the tail bought a pneumatic squeezer from Avery. It uses the
same yokes. I have since bought other things but have forgotten them all,
except you will need a LOT more clecos than you get in anyones package. I
already had a 6hp, 60 gal compressor, bandsaw, atblesaw, drill press,
grinder and assorted hand tools. I do believe that buying one of the
packages is a good way to start, although none of them are "complete".
Bill Christie, AZ. RV-8A left wing tank
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: tooling questions from orlando
>
> Hello RV Listers, I'm your newest member. I've decided that an RV is in
my
> future, likely my immediate future. I think I'll put a tail section crate
> under my christmas tree. :) My question revolves around the tools
> necessary to build this incredible sounding aircraft. I've built several
> Porsche race cars, race bikes, and racing jet skis so fabrication is not
new
> to me, but aircraft fabrication certainly is. Ok, now to the question.
> Avery tools sells kits filled with necessary tools for the RV. Are these
> kits worthwhile, complete, necessary, yada yada yada. I'm sure, if this
> list is anything like the Porsche list, this question is nothing new. In
> fact, it's likely one of those irritating questions that all the new guys
> ask when they show up here. Bear with me for just a little while, I'm new
> to this but you'll find I catch on rather quickly. Oh, and if any of you
> are in central Florida, I'll gladly trade you a day of 400+ hp turbo
charged
> Porsche excitement at the race track for a bit of you showing me the ins
and
> outs of RV's. :)
>
> Blue skies
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
Kevin,
I knew this was going to pop up as soon as I saw the reference. You are
right...technically. And as you are in the land above this may not apply,
but the answer is....Would you maybe want to slightly delay certification of
your loving airplane while you argue that technicality with your local FAA
inspector who is saying that he won't issue your airworthiness certificate
without it. There has been so many cassed of the wrong fuel being put in
aircraft tanks over time that it is silly not to do it for just that little
extra added safety benefit. And while I personally do not get carried away
with the fuel quantity markings on the tank there is good reason for it on
Standard category aircraft. The reason I say this is because it is not very
often that we let anybody else take over lovely pets and go fly them.
Again, you are right but there are good valid safety reasons for going ahead
and doing it.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance???? |
rpflanze wrote today in a aileron posting................
> P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance group
>because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web site I
see
>no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention to a
>pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance gone
>away?
>
>Thanks listers!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
>Hampshire, IL C38
Is this something new from Vans ??? Pay for Assistance ??? I hope not . Any
ideas from the group ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tooling questions from orlando |
Hi Bill,
I'm a new builder too - working on the empennage of an RV-6/6A. I looked
at the assortments of several companies and found minor detail and price
differences.
I bought the two Avery tool assortments that they advertise for RV less
a few items that I already had. They gave the same 8% discount on their
one-at-a-time prices for the reduced assortments.
So far, I have used most of the tools in building up to the rudder. The
tools are of good to adequate quality.
I have purchased a few additional hand tools like a pop rivet dimpler
for some hard to reach places for squeezer or "C" frame tool and a
dimpler for #10 screw. Also cleco side clamps seem to be a necessity in
many places.
I cannot comment on what is needed in later kits. You will probably get
suggestions from the more senior builders.
Good luck.
Richard
Orlando
RV-6/6A empennage
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Hello RV Listers, I'm your newest member. I've decided that an RV is in my
> future, likely my immediate future. I think I'll put a tail section crate
> under my christmas tree. :) My question revolves around the tools
> necessary to build this incredible sounding aircraft. I've built several
> Porsche race cars, race bikes, and racing jet skis so fabrication is not new
> to me, but aircraft fabrication certainly is. Ok, now to the question.
> Avery tools sells kits filled with necessary tools for the RV. Are these
> kits worthwhile, complete, necessary, yada yada yada. I'm sure, if this
> list is anything like the Porsche list, this question is nothing new. In
> fact, it's likely one of those irritating questions that all the new guys
> ask when they show up here. Bear with me for just a little while, I'm new
> to this but you'll find I catch on rather quickly. Oh, and if any of you
> are in central Florida, I'll gladly trade you a day of 400+ hp turbo charged
> Porsche excitement at the race track for a bit of you showing me the ins and
> outs of RV's. :)
>
> Blue skies
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | A Boeing 767 question |
It would be cool if Boeing also did that for the ailerons... If both turn
inward the ailerons become flaps, if both turn outward they become spoilers.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
RVers,
I can think of several experimental airplanes that were granted
airworthiness certificates without having the fuel grade and quantity
placarded at the filler location, my 2 planes, included. After looking at
hundreds of experimentals at S&F and OSH it seems that there are a lot of
these planes that are not placarded, either. I did have the fuel quantity
of each tank marked near the fuel selector valve but not the octane.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Placards |
I believe part 23 deals with airworthiness standards for normal,
utility, acrobatic, and commuter categories only,, and not
experimental.
I could be wrong here,, so help me out if I am misinterpreting.
>
> 23.1557 Miscellaneous Markings and Placards.
>
>(a) Baggage and cargo compartments, and ballast location. Each baggage and
>cargo compartment, and each ballast location, must have a placard stating
>any limitations on contents, including weight, that are necessary under
>the
>loading requirements.
>
>(b) Seats. If the maximum allowable weight to be carried in a seat is
>less than
>170 pounds, a placard stating the lesser weight must be permanently
>attached to the seat structure.
>
>(c) Fuel and oil filler openings. The following apply:
>
>(1) Fuel filler openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with-
>
>(i) For reciprocating engine-powered airplanes-
>
>(A) The word "Avgas"; and
>
>(B) The minimum fuel grade.
>
>**** Bryan E. Files ****
>Ever Fly Maintenance
>Palmer, Alaska
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
Peter,
I had my wood prop dynamically balanced and felt that it was worthwhile.
It was an absolute necessity when I put on the Sensenich f.p. metal prop.
The Sensenich prop checked out fine for static balance at the prop shop
when I had it re-pitched but was much rougher than my balanced, wood prop.
I think the theory on moisture and changes in balance might be cutting
hairs. Make sure you park your airplane with the wood prop horizontal to
lessen moisture's effect.
I had Landoll's harmonic balancer when running my wood prop. I also flew
the wood prop without the balancer and could detect no difference. If I
had it to do over, again, I would consider adding Landoll's ring which is
simply a weight. No moving parts. This would give the prop some inertia,
move the c.g. forward (which is needed on many RVs (RV6's, anyway) with
wood props) and be less costly.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
>I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood prop.
>
>Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I understand the only other
>possibilities are an engine with an under performing cylinder or the
>prop may have been carved with different pitch angles on opposite
>blades.
>
>Am I missing anything ?
>
>Considering dynamic balancing although the balance guy says wood props
>change their balance with the seasons (moisture content) and the balnce
>would change making a dynamic balance pointless. Anyone dynamically
>balanced a wood prop, results ?
>
>The other possibility would be a harmonic balancer on the flywheel,
>would this correct a dynamic out of balance ?
>
>Looking foreward to comments, Peter (Toronto)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings for Vert/Horz Stab |
<>
Mark,
It's a good idea to make a backing strip. Also consider using soft rivets
for the rivets used in fiberglass. The backing strip can be fairly light
like .020 or .032. It is a pain especially doing the wingtips, but I think
you will find it worth the effort.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leonid meteor shower from an RV |
Terry, Terry, Terry.....
You are having entirely too much fun with your RV!
Thanks for the story,
Sam Buchanan
-------------------
Terry Jantzi wrote:
>
>
> I needed something new to do with my RV? This time every year the Leonid
> meteor shower is visible in the eastern sky. Last night I convinced my
> son that the viewing would be better from a really high vantage point.
> So... at 11:30pm we launched into the night sky for look. My son has
> also never flown at night so it was a double thrill for him. I just
> don't do a lot of night flying accept to stay current with circuits
> every 2-3 months but this was an exception.
>
> We headed southwest towards Lake Erie to get away from the lights of
> Toronto and surrounding area and climbed to 9500'. There was a thin high
> layer over Kitchener which ended about 25 miles to the south. As I
> circled over Tillsonburg airfield (hey you just never know and night
> flying isn't my most favourite thing) we turned the panel lights off and
> waited for the show. Leo rose shortly after midnight which is supposed
> to be the prime viewing time.
>
> There is nothing more cool than sitting in your favourite warm airplane,
> under a clear bubble (tip up canopy), with the tunes playing and
> watching a celestial display. Your point of view is certainly different
> from what all the poor flatlanders get.
>
> My son remarked as we were driving home far after our bedtimes that the
> best thing was how I could turn runway lights on and off by keying the
> mike. Guilty as charged. We hit them all as we flew overhead.
>
> Terry Jantzi (tired but happy)
> RV-6 C-GZRV (undamaged by meteorites)
> Kitchener
> --
> http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
> http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
>Having read this post, I couldn't help but wonder whether a single
>alternator, two battery system wouldn't make more sense from a reliability
>standpoint. When I did MTBF studies for the power systems I designed for
>NCR, the battery was the highest failure rate item by a long shot.
>Personally, here in Arizona, you are lucky to have one last 18 months. My
>diesel truck had both die in 14 months. I would be interested in hearing
>your opinion as to which option is preferable.
Sure . . . a two-alternator/two-battery/two-bus system has
a better MTBF number but consider how batteries fail. If
you replace a battery when its capacity is down to 50%
of its rated capacity, then you're quite likely to replace
it before it fails. Further, a failed battery (with any problem
other than shorted cells) doesn't prevent an alternator from
functioning. If a battery is replaced before it's too tired,
then the major risk for loosing a battery is loss of battery
contactor . . . then it doesn't matter how many alternators
you have. This is why the battery capacity needs to be watched,
and you need an alternate feed path to the essential bus
UPSTREAM of a failed contactor.
Having said all that, I think we can place a great deal
of confidence in components fabricated with modern technologies.
Our general distrust of "aircraft quality parts" is founded
in the generally dismal performance of such parts in the
type-certified arena. The parts we're putting on our
homebuilts are head and shoulders better performers and
have more reliability.
Personally, I'd be quite comfortable launching into the
gray behind an all electric panel supported with a 40A
main alternator, an SD-8 aux alternator and a 17 a.h.
battery that's less than a year old. The spam-can drivers
can only WISH they had it so good.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free Concorde Battery |
>No I have not...how does one perform a capacity check?
>
Hook a headlamp bulb to it and see how long it
takes to bring the battery voltage down to 10.5
volts.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: RV-List: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance????" (Nov 18, 11:00am)
| Subject: | Re: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance???? |
>
>> P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance group
>>because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web site I
>see
>>no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention to a
>>pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance gone
>>away?
>>
>>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
>Is this something new from Vans ??? Pay for Assistance ??? I hope not . Any
>ideas from the group ???
>
I wrote to both "support(at)vansaircraft.com" and "orders(at)vansaircraft.com"
this week and received timely responses to my technical questions. Just
a data point...
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance???? |
I just asked Bill about it yesterday and was informed that they do NOT
plan a "pay for assistance" program. It looks like they just left the
link off the page when they created the new site.
Try support(at)vansaircraft.com if you are a builder. For information,
try info(at)vansaircraft.com.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance????
rpflanze wrote today in a aileron posting................
> P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance
group
>because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web
site I
see
>no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention
to a
>pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance
gone
>away?
>
>Thanks listers!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
>Hampshire, IL C38
Is this something new from Vans ??? Pay for Assistance ??? I hope
not . Any
ideas from the group ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leonid meteor shower from an RV |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Terry, Terry, Terry.....
>
> You are having entirely too much fun with your RV!
>
> Thanks for the story,
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
I know, I know. My wife says that I play to hard and don't work hard
enough. Any idea what point she's trying to make?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
Bob,
I took a look at your dual alternator schematic - neat. Is the aux
alternator normally off line or can it be run concurrently with the main
alternator?
I think if(when) my vacuum pump goes out I might go all electric.
Thanks,
Stan Blanton
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Matt,
Did you get my fax of the trim tab cut out this morning and was it the right
page you were looking for?
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site cleared for departure! |
Hey Jeremy, great job on the re-vamped web site. Just wanted to
congratulate you on your most excellent taste in selecting my RV-6 for
the 6/6A section. Great bragging rights for me:)
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | re: Capacitive senders |
>I fail to see the need for inverted fuel readings.....do you intend to
fly for
>such a sustained period that fuel consumption while inverted is a
concern ?? A
>quick glance at the ammount of fuel via the guage & a mental
calculation of
>flight time since fuel addition to tanks is all that I would think is
necessary
>before flooping the RV over.. It would seem that you should have a
concern with
>some sort of inverted oil system before you have a concern with fuel
>quanitity while inverted ??
I'm not looking for inverted fuel readings. Even I wouldn't like to be
inverted for long enough to require them! :-) My impression, however,
was that the regular, float-type senders, when installed into an
inverted (flop tube equipped) tank, would never accurately report the
fuel levels down to E. I'm certainly not suggesting that we rely on
fuel gauges instead of appropriate calculations, but it would be nice to
have 'semi-reliable' gauges. My question went to the point of whether
or not the capacitive senders would be more accurate throughout a tank's
full range of fuel levels than a float-type sender, when installed in an
inverted tank. My apologies if I wasn't sufficiently clear initially.
BTW, I'm planning on installing the Christen inverted oil system.
Best Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | re: Capacitive senders |
>The capacitive senders seem to me to be an especially good choice for
>inverted tanks. I am just building my RV-8 tanks with the capacitive
>senders. They don't intrude on the bay where the flop tube goes at
all, and
>there is no need to cut a hole in the rear baffle for the float-type
sender.
>These senders should be just as accurate, with or without a flop tube.
I
>decided to put a flop tube in one tank after I saw the how the senders
>mounted.
Exactly the information I was hoping to hear. With the senders being
that accurate and not intruding on the first bay where the flop tube
could get hung up on it, can anyone think of a reason not to make two
inverted tanks? Not for that all-important four hour inverted flight
I've been itching to make, but so that I won't have to remember to
select the left (e.g.) tank before acro.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: Fax." (Nov 18, 1:12pm)
Hi Bryan!
Hey thanks for the FAX. I received it this morning. My manual is circa
1988 so your drawing looked different than what I remembered mine
looking like. I think that I was had was just a print of the dimensions
for the trimtab itself. On the one you FAXed me, I think I can guess
what it should be, but still it seems like there should be a print that
calls out the actual numbers. Do you have anything like that??
Thanks for the help, Bryan!
Matt
>--------------
>
>Matt,
>Did you get my fax of the trim tab cut out this morning and was it the right
>page you were looking for?
>**** Bryan E. Files ****
>Ever Fly Maintenance
>Palmer, Alaska
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | re: Capacitive senders |
>Ken...
>Did you have to buy anything other than the $50 Capacitive Fuel Sender
Kit,
>and the EI FL-2C? I just called Van's and they said I needed a
converter
>for each tank for around $50 each as well to use a capacitance gauge...
>I am trying to verify that the Grand Rapids Technologies EIS4000 can
read
>the Van's capacitance sending units... The folks at Grand Rapids said
their
>unit supports capacitance sending units that operate in the 0 to 5
volts
>range. They sell Skysport and Princeton Electronics capacitance
sending
>units for use with their unit... Do you know what the EI gauge
supports?
>Any help would be appreciated...
Hi Bill,
Van's made no mention to me of need a converter or anything in addition
to the senders and the EI FL2-C. News to me. I'll be looking into
it...
I don't know which senders are supported by the EI gauge other than
their own.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | used tools out there? |
Someone responded to my inquiry about tool sets with advice to post a
request for used tools that finished builders are done with. So, consider
this a fishing expedition...anyone not wanting to hold onto their tools?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | re: Capacitive senders |
>Ken,
>The capacitance fuel senders will work fine with the inverted fuel
system.
>I am installing the capacitance senders in my tanks, and am also
equipping
>them for conventional senders. I had the conventional senders already,
and
>I will have them as a backup (not installed). The capacitance senders
look
>great, but they can not be repaired if a bad electrical connection
develops
>in the future. The senders are installed in the second bay in from
each
>end.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware of the irrepairabilty of these
senders. Sounds like all sorts of potential trouble, doesn't it? What
sort of service reliability have these units got?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
awaiting tail & wing kits, ordering tools, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance???? |
I'm sure Jeremy will jump in here and provide the "official" word, but I can
tell you for a certainty that NOTHING is changing at Van's with regard to
builder support. Jeremy's new venture, SourceRV, will indeed be a
paid-access-only web site, but will feature information over and above the
Van's site. I have an idea what he's working on and I think any builder
would conclude that it will be a steal at $24 per year to access the kind of
info Jeremy will be including.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, hooking up wing stuff
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Tail Number Question |
This is prob a dumb question. I have not ordered my RV6A yet but, when are
you able to pick your
own tail number? I have noticed that some people already have one when they
just started the tail.
Just curious
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)nospam.swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
In a message dated 11/18/99 6:30:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> Using male/female pairs of Fast-Ons in the middle of a
> wire run is not recommended since tension in the runs
> is not controlled by service loops like you do where wires
> drop out of bundles and onto things like switches and
> fuse blocks. Further, finding PIDG style terminals in
> the male Fast-On is difficult. I've never had my hands
> on any and AMP doesn't make them.
Hi Bob:
Thanks for the comments. I couldn't agree with you more about Male and Female
Tab Connectors. As it said on our page "we are not endorsing this
technique." I added a bunch of info to the page to clarify my position on
Fast Ons and why I posted this page.
AAMR/AirCore-The Bob
Haan Solution
Please take a look at your convenience and thanks for all you do and provide
in the way of info. It's very helpful.
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
>I took a look at your dual alternator schematic - neat. Is the aux
>alternator normally off line or can it be run concurrently with the main
>alternator?
The voltage regulator for standby alternators is a
derivitive of the LR3 series products. Instead of
a low voltage warning light, the lamp is driven by
a detector that says the alternator is loaded.
Normal operations are with both alternators ON. The
voltage regulator for the Aux Alterntor is set for
13.0 volts. When them main alternator boosts the bus
voltage to 14.0 volts or a tad more, the aux alternator's
regulators thinks it is responsable for an apparently
elevated bus voltage and shuts the aux alternator off.
If the main alternator fails, the bus voltage sags and
the aux alternator comes on automatically. The "AUX ALT
LOADED" light illuminates. If system loads are too great
for the SD-20, the light flashes until you reduce loads
to 20A or below whereupon it stops flashing.
>I think if(when) my vacuum pump goes out I might go all electric.
Good idea . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
I feel like I'm sending an e-mail to the two experts . . . so here goes . .
. Bob and John . . . what is recommended where you want to be able to do a
wiring disconnect (for example, tail light going into fuselage . . . nav
lights going into wing ribs). What do you use, where do you get it . . .
and if it needs a crimping tool, what do you recommend? I know this is
basic, but you can save me a bunch of reading.
Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory RV-8A QB, working on wings/lights
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com <AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another How To Page
>
>In a message dated 11/18/99 6:30:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
>> Using male/female pairs of Fast-Ons in the middle of a
>> wire run is not recommended since tension in the runs
>> is not controlled by service loops like you do where wires
>> drop out of bundles and onto things like switches and
>> fuse blocks. Further, finding PIDG style terminals in
>> the male Fast-On is difficult. I've never had my hands
>> on any and AMP doesn't make them.
>
>Hi Bob:
>
>Thanks for the comments. I couldn't agree with you more about Male and
Female
>Tab Connectors. As it said on our page "we are not endorsing this
>technique." I added a bunch of info to the page to clarify my position on
>Fast Ons and why I posted this page.
> AAMR/AirCore-The
Bob
>Haan Solution
>
>Please take a look at your convenience and thanks for all you do and
provide
>in the way of info. It's very helpful.
>
>
>Best regards,
>
>John @AAMR/AirCore
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
Well Frank: Now you know they were right, about elevators
moving oposit directions....
On my Rv6; they will not do that...
Bert
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
In a message dated 11/18/99 3:21:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
Hi Rick: Question- What amperage draw? How many wires, and what gauge?
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Number Question |
You can reserve it any time you want but keep in mind that it takes $10.00 a
year to retain it.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
In a message dated 11/18/99 3:21:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
Hello Rick:
Thanks for calling me an expert...I am not real sure how accurate that
is...but it's a nice thought. Electric Bob is the real guru flat out expert
on this stuff. Maybe we can put our heads together and come up with an answer.
Anyway...What size wire, how many? What Amperage draw?
Best regards,
John Caldwell@AAMR/AirCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A Boeing 767 question |
In a message dated 11/18/99 12:25:14 PM Central Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<<
Not to mention that the RV-List top o' the day periodically tells us to keep
our emails on-topic... >>
Hmmm, was this RV related
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Capacitive senders |
>Exactly the information I was hoping to hear. With the senders being
>that accurate and not intruding on the first bay where the flop tube
>could get hung up on it, can anyone think of a reason not to make two
>inverted tanks? Not for that all-important four hour inverted flight
>I've been itching to make, but so that I won't have to remember to
>select the left (e.g.) tank before acro.
Thought about this myself. Even with nothing to hang up on, the flop
tubes do aparently stiffen with age. (So I read anyway) and potentially
could get stuck in some intermediate position (or maybe get hung up on
the stiffners). Both of these being fairly low probabilty events.
Anyway, I have decided to build my left tank with flop tube and right
without, and then use right for t/o and landing, and left for acro. Just
put it in the checklists.
WRT fixing the senders, the capacative senders are only a plate that is
attached to the ribs with some insulation. The only things that could go
wrong with the sender is if the wire came off, or if something caused a
short between the plates and the ribs. Fixing either of these would
require removing the back baffle on the tank.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Riviting 2nd wing.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans PAY-FOR-USE Assistance???? |
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the one
above!
Nothing has changed with builder support.
Van's Aircraft continues to support their products.
I think the misunderstanding occurred because Van's web site now describes
SourceRV, a new _additional_ resource for RV enthusiasts/builder/pilots.
As always, just click on the "Contact Van's" page to get contact info for
Van's regular technical support.
And, to ensure that no future misunderstandings occur, Van's Aircraft has
added a page titled "Builder Support" (in the "Building an RV" section) to
their web site that explicitly states that technical support is provided.
Check out this page for the official word on the matter.
Hope this clears things up.
Have a great day,
Jeremy Benedict
jeremy(at)infoav.com
Disclaimer: I am not employed by Van's Aircraft, and I do not speak for them
in this e-mail.
> Is this something new from Vans ??? Pay for Assistance ??? I hope not .
Any
> ideas from the group ???
> rpflanze wrote today in a aileron posting................
>
> > P.S. I normally submit such questions to Van's Builders' Assistance
group
> >because they are the designated experts. However, on the new web site I
> see
> >no way to send an Email to Van's for assistance. I only see mention to a
> >pay-for-use assistance coming in December. Has builders' assistance gone
> >away?
> >
> >Thanks listers!
> >
> >Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> >
> >Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
----------
> From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans RV Gauges
> Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 8:25 PM
>
> Gary: I am the the guy in Killbuck, Oh. and talked to you during the
summer
> about coming up to see your project sometime. I am still waiting on my
> RV6-A-QB and am about to cancel my order and get a Glasair II RG !! Vans
> has been real good with lip service and delays on Gauges and Kits ! I
> ordered my kit 6-26-99 and have the fax confirmation to prove it !
>
> ----------
> > From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> > To: tcervin(at)valkyrie.net
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans RV Gauges
> > Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 6:50 AM
> >
> > << backorder
> > i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same boat! Why don't we
> take
> > a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the complete set of Vans
> Gauges
> > !!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse panal ! Tom in
Ohio
>
> > >>>>
> >
> > Tom....Glad you posted this. I have been waiting for the new catalog to
> come
> > out because I also want a full set of Van's gauges and thought they
were
> > already shipping. Guess not. Maybe I will look in another direction.
> > ps... where in Ohio are you. I have been contacting Ohio builders
> lkately
> > and found there are more than we think. There are about 12 in the
> > Cleveland/northeast Ohio area.
> >
> > Gary Palinkas
> > Parma, Ohio
> > RV6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Electrical Noise |
In a message dated 11/17/99 10:49:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
midnight(at)udel.edu writes:
<<
Guys,
I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
out there?
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
(wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!)
>>
Joe,
You might do an archive search or ask Electric Bob. Seems I remember someone
else having that same problem a few years back. I think they added some sort
of filter to the back of the turn coordinator.
Louis Smith
RV-8 #80126
N801RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | LRI Group Buy still available. |
Listers,
The LRI Group Buy with 5% going to the RV-List fund raiser is still
available. We have 5 people participating so far. Here's the deal:
The usual group buy offer is $670 for the analog LRI unit and $72 for
heater and $20 for shipping which reflects a savings of $123 or 14% over
the usual prices and shipping. Of course as usual the heater would be
optional. If you want the new gauge that was posted on Paul Besing's
webpage at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
The cost would be $750 plus the optional heater and shipping described
above. Again this reflects a $123 dollar savings for the whole package.
Now the part about the list contribution Jim would like to make. He will
give 5% of total LRI sales to Matt during this group buy. If we buy 5 or 10
LRI's during this month it can add up to a nice donation. The RV-List is
the only place you can get a discount on the LRI!
If you are interested in participating, please contact me off list at >>
prober(at)iwaynet.net <<.
Thanks.......................AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
>
>Kevin,
>
>I knew this was going to pop up as soon as I saw the reference. You are
>right...technically. And as you are in the land above this may not apply,
>but the answer is....Would you maybe want to slightly delay certification of
>your loving airplane while you argue that technicality with your local FAA
>inspector who is saying that he won't issue your airworthiness certificate
>without it. There has been so many cassed of the wrong fuel being put in
>aircraft tanks over time that it is silly not to do it for just that little
>extra added safety benefit. And while I personally do not get carried away
>with the fuel quantity markings on the tank there is good reason for it on
>Standard category aircraft. The reason I say this is because it is not very
>often that we let anybody else take over lovely pets and go fly them.
>
>Again, you are right but there are good valid safety reasons for going ahead
>and doing it.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>"Das Fed"
>
>
Hi Mike,
My posting only referred to the regulatory requirement, or lack thereof.
I would hope that inspectors would stick to the regulations. If they
consider that it is safer to have a higher standard than that
required by the regulations, they should make a recommendation to the
builder. But it should be up to the builder whether to follow this
recommendation or not.
I will agree wholeheartedly that there is a big safety benefit to
having the fuel type clearly marked near the filler cap. But, I see
no point in having the tank quantity by the filler cap, unless it is
in a big enough font to be seen from the cockpit, which is where the
only guy who needs the info is sitting. The refueler doesn't need it
- he fills it until it is full.
Note that FAR 23 only requires the fuel filler placard to say "AVGAS"
and the minimum fuel grade. There is no requirement for tank
quantity that I can find.
I had a look at the Transport Canada regulations for amateur built
aircraft, and couldn't find any requirement for placards up here
either. My aircraft will have placard similar to that required for
FAR 23 approved aircraft, unless I learn of some other requirement up
here. At the rate I'm going, I've got lots of time to do research :-)
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuel Capacity (caps) |
Let's use "true" capacity on the fuel caps. It's rare that you would be
filling an empty tank ( I hope no one runs out or gas) unless you
drained it. This marking is not for a fueler to figure out when to shut
off the pump>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
Bob thanks for the reply. Haven't had too many replies to this excellent
question of mine, think I have been swamped by exploding mice stories.
Regards Peter C-GFLG Brampton, Ontario
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
> Peter,
> I had my wood prop dynamically balanced and felt that it was worthwhile.
> It was an absolute necessity when I put on the Sensenich f.p. metal prop.
> The Sensenich prop checked out fine for static balance at the prop shop
> when I had it re-pitched but was much rougher than my balanced, wood prop.
> I think the theory on moisture and changes in balance might be cutting
> hairs. Make sure you park your airplane with the wood prop horizontal to
> lessen moisture's effect.
> I had Landoll's harmonic balancer when running my wood prop. I also flew
> the wood prop without the balancer and could detect no difference. If I
> had it to do over, again, I would consider adding Landoll's ring which is
> simply a weight. No moving parts. This would give the prop some inertia,
> move the c.g. forward (which is needed on many RVs (RV6's, anyway) with
> wood props) and be less costly.
>
> Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
> Tech Counselor # 3726
>
> >I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood prop.
> >
> >Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I understand the only other
> >possibilities are an engine with an under performing cylinder or the
> >prop may have been carved with different pitch angles on opposite
> >blades.
> >
> >Am I missing anything ?
> >
> >Considering dynamic balancing although the balance guy says wood props
> >change their balance with the seasons (moisture content) and the balnce
> >would change making a dynamic balance pointless. Anyone dynamically
> >balanced a wood prop, results ?
> >
> >The other possibility would be a harmonic balancer on the flywheel,
> >would this correct a dynamic out of balance ?
> >
> >Looking foreward to comments, Peter (Toronto)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Diehl" <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net> |
In the process of rebuilding a RV-4 I had my Pacesetter prop
overhauled at the factory. Also installed a Landoll balancer
and find a very smooth running O-320E2D (150 H.P.) and prop
combination. It idles at 700 and runs up to 2300 static and
2700 in flight.
Don Diehl
N28EW, third owner
>
> I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood prop.
>
> Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I understand the only other
> possibilities are an engine with an under performing cylinder or the
> prop may have been carved with different pitch angles on opposite
> blades.
>
> Am I missing anything ?
>
> Considering dynamic balancing although the balance guy says wood props
> change their balance with the seasons (moisture content) and the balnce
> would change making a dynamic balance pointless. Anyone dynamically
> balanced a wood prop, results ?
>
> The other possibility would be a harmonic balancer on the flywheel,
> would this correct a dynamic out of balance ?
>
> Looking foreward to comments, Peter (Toronto)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Here's a website with some interesting electronic compasses:
<http://www.precisionnav.com/navifindermain.html>
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | For Sale - Lycoming O360-A4A - Excellent Cond. |
For Sale:
Lycoming O360-A4A
-----------------
* 180 hp
* 950 SMOH
* Complete Logs
* Solid Crank
* Removed from wind-damaged Cherokee 180
* Starter ring
* Cleaned and repainted
All brand-new accessories include:
* Slick mags (new, not rebuilt)
* Fuel Pump (new, not rebuilt)
* B&C Lightweight Starter (new)
* Van's alternator kit, 60amp (new)
* 8 plugs (new)
* Ignition harness (new)
* Ellison TBFI (new)
* Valve covers and silicone gaskets (new)
* Oil Filter (new)
This is a really nice engine. It came from a wind-damaged Cherokee 180.
When I received it (at 950 SMOH), I removed all of the old existing
accessories, and replaced them with brand new as described above. I
also completely cleaned the outside, stripped the old paint and
repainted in the red as shown in the pictures.
The price also includes the original carburetor, in good condition.
Shown in the pictures, but not included in the price is the X-over
exhaust and Woofter prop extension. The prop extension is available at
extra cost ($275). I plan to keep the exhaust system. I might be
willing to unbundle the Ellison TBFI if you're not interested in it.
I have decided to sell this engine because I am planning to put a
constant speed prop on my RV-4 and this engine has a solid crankshaft.
Its a beautiful engine, though, and I really hate to give it up since
I've put a lot of work into cleaning it up and upgrading the
accessories.
Please note that while it looks new, it actually has 950 hours since a
first major overhaul. I have the complete engine logs including all of
the maintenance history.
I am in Livermore California which is on the West Coast near San
Francisco. If you're local and can pick it up, that's great. If not, I
would be willing to crate it up nicely and have it shipped by truck to
you. I will pay for the crating, but you will be responsible for all
shipping charges.
Below are a number of photos I just took of the engine from various
angles. The pictures do it justice.
I can accept Visa or Mastercard for full or partial payment, although
this will cost an additional 3% to cover my expense.
Here are some current photos of the engine:
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine1.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine2.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine3.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine4.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine5.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine6.jpg
Price: Asking $13,750
Please email with questions, or interest.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | vac pump install |
Hi,
It looks like I will need to remove a magneto so that I can tighten the
!@#$%* lower inboard nut on a Rapco vacuum pump. It is installed on an
O-360A1A with a spin on oil filter & dual mags.
If I remove the magneto for this purpose, will I need to retime the mag
if I can precisely mark its position before I remove it?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire sizing? (was: Another How To Page) |
>Thanks for calling me an expert...I am not real sure how accurate that
>is...but it's a nice thought. Electric Bob is the real guru flat out expert
>on this stuff. Maybe we can put our heads together and come up with an
answer.
>
>Anyway...What size wire, how many? What Amperage draw?
My appologies . . . wasn't tracking this thread. I sort through
several hundred e-mails a day and I have to work from subject lines.
How can I help?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood prop.
>
> Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I understand the only
> other
> possibilities are an engine with an under performing cylinder or the
> prop may have been carved with different pitch angles on opposite
> blades.
>
> Am I missing anything ?
>
-
Many people have had problems (some like this) caused by installing a one
piece venturi in the carb.
It seems that some of the new "better" venturi's really weren't, as far
as engine performance goes anyway.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuel Capacity (caps) |
> > Randy has brought up the fact that the -8 tanks are 22 gallons true
> > capacity, while the usable is 21. I would like to hear from the -8
> > builders
> > which number they should display. We all need to agree on one
> > number, so
> > that the set up could be done only once. There are currently 15
> > sets of -8 caps..
> >
> >
> This is not correct.
> The tank is able to hold a total of 21 gallons with all of this being
> usable except for 1 or 2 sample tubes full (if the fuel pickup tubes are
> installed correctly).
> The original blue RV-8 prototype has 22 gallon tanks but it has a
> slightly different tank design than is in the kit versions.
>
> Scott McDaniels
Gents,
I stand corrected, I was remembering what was originally spec'd for the RV-8
as Scott points out. I still recommend we use the total number rather than
any attempt to guage "usable".
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, attaching wing stuff
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
I am still waiting
> on my
> > RV6-A-QB and am about to cancel my order and get a Glasair II RG
> !! Vans
> > has been real good with lip service and delays on Gauges and Kits
> ! I
> > ordered my kit 6-26-99 and have the fax confirmation to prove it !
>
> > > << are on
> > backorder
> > > i bet a lot of you other builders are in the same boat! Why
> don't we
> > take
> > > a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the complete set of
> Vans
> > Gauges
> > > !!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a sparse panal !
> Tom in
> Ohio
> >
> > > >>>>
> > >
> > > Tom....Glad you posted this. I have been waiting for the new
> catalog to
> > come
> > > out because I also want a full set of Van's gauges and thought
> they
> were
> > > already shipping. Guess not. Maybe I will look in another
> direction.
> > >
Yes, the new instruments have been shipped to a lot of builders.
With a price that is only 1/2 of what the closest competitor sells for it
is no wonder that they sold out immediately.
Tom,
Sorry to hear that you have been waiting 4 1/2 months for your kit.
Once again it is a problem with supply being less than the demand.
Van could have priced the kits at $30,000 and still sold quite a few but
not had the supply problem, but that isn't how he does business.
He would prefer to price them as low as possible to make them affordable
to as many people as possible (unlike many of the kit companies).
Only draw back is that often people have to wait a bit.
You mentioned Van's being really good with lip service...
I assume that means you were promised a kit in much less than 4 1/2
months, but you haven't received it?
What was the time you were quoted when you placed your order?
Barb told me today that depending on the model ordered (RV-6A with
sliding canopy is the highest in demand) the back log is 4 to 5 months
(less for some of the other models).
If you are at 4 1/2 months then yours is likely very close to being
ready.
Suggest you give her a call and find out.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free Concorde Battery |
>I have an RMD light, but not an automotive..I hooked it up for 3 hours and
>the voltage dropped from 13 to 11.7..should I keep going, or am I using too
>low power a light..it is a 50 watt bulb
Keep going to 10.5 volts (essentially zero capacity).
A 50w lamp is about 4 amps, three hours already sez
you got at least 12 a.h. Take it on down to 10.5
and then recharge it immediately . . . more gently
this time. Sounds like it's not seriously hurt.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> It looks like I will need to remove a magneto so that I can tighten
> the
> !@#$%* lower inboard nut on a Rapco vacuum pump. It is installed on
> an
> O-360A1A with a spin on oil filter & dual mags.
>
> If I remove the magneto for this purpose, will I need to retime the
> mag
> if I can precisely mark its position before I remove it?
>
Yes.
Their is a special wrench available to reach that nut.
You may be able to find a mechanich in your area that will loan/rent it
to you.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 inverted tank plumbing results |
RV8'ers,
I said a few days ago that I would let ya'll know how I did the fuel line
from the selector to the left fuel tank with flop tube. Well, I chose to use
a 90 degree bulkhead fitting (AN833). It is a MUCH better and cleaner
installation in my opinion. I tried to route a single piece of tubing as
per plans, but it was just too much knuckle-busting and tube-kinking for my
liking. The short piece from the selector to the fitting is a bit of a
challenge, but it was easier to manage since it could be bent and fitted
while sitting in the front seat without the outside length sticking through
the side skin complicating matters even more. The outer piece was very easy
to make, with only a 90 degree bend at the front end where it pokes through
the tank attach bracket and onto the flop tube fitting. If I can wrestle the
digital camera away from my wife, I'll try to take some pics of the
installation.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
wing tips, fairings, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
Bob,
The push on male and female connectors in question come with the
thermocouples supplied by Electronics International for their EGT/CHT
instruments. They look like the AMP PIDG, Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip,
terminals. These terminals are double crimp, nylon insulated and have a
gripping finish on the inside surface of the barrel.
I selected EI Instruments because I got the impression from the RV-List
that EI instruments are reliable.
A point you make often and very correctly, is that there are thousands flying.
This is an opportunity to thank you for your coaching over the years via
the RV-List, your book and your seminars. I have used many of your
ideas. My system is based on two spade fuse blocks,a 20 and a 10. This
concept has made the design and fabrication of the wiring system very easy.
I mounted these fuse blocks on the forward web of the subpanel. They are
hinged at the bottom so that they swing down below the panel and now face
aft for replacement of the fuses. I have only two resettable fuses on the
panel, one for your regulator to crowbar and one for the flaps.
Bob
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >New How To Page.
> Using male/female pairs of Fast-Ons in the middle of a
> wire run is not recommended since tension in the runs
> is not controlled by service loops like you do where wires
> drop out of bundles and onto things like switches and
> fuse blocks. Further, finding PIDG style terminals in
> the male Fast-On is difficult. I've never had my hands
> on any and AMP doesn't make them.
>
> Service disconnects in wire runs are better fabricated
> from knife-splices or wrist-locks. The former are quite
> common, the later are prefered but hard to find. We
> used to use them a lot on piston Cessnas Waaayyyyy back
> when but haven't seen any new production of these parts
> in years. The goal is to have a service disconnect with
> as much tensile strength as the wire itself.
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
>
****************************
Bob Haan
Home 503-579-2729
Bob's Mobile 503-720-1132
Sherry's Mobile 503-789-3439
Home Office 503-579-3675
mailto:bhaan(at)easystreet.com
mailto:shaan(at)easystreet.com
****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
Turn coordinators are high on the list of potential
> noise generators. What you describe is consistent with
> noise conducted out of the TC and onto the bus via its
> 14v power lead. Try putting a filter in the leadwires
> to the TC. Radio Shack has an inductor, capacitor combo they
> sell for about $4. It will need to mount in a small "project
> box". I generally wire up the components with a pair of
> goesinta and goesouta wires through grommets. The RS
> part number for electrical components kit is 270-030.
Bob, does this mean that if I want a turn co-ordinator I should plan a noise
filter from the begginning?
Also, does the Navaid autopilot/turn co-ordinator need one too?
Can two devices share the same noise filter?
Thanks Bob,
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild |
> Another question I have is about night flying. I find that there is a
> terrible glare on the canopy at night and when I land I almost have to
turn
> the instrument lighting off in order to clear my forward vision. Any
> thoughts there?
I am planning a 5 inch glaresheid above the panel in my RV6A. This will
hopefully cut out that reflection that I have heard a few people mention in
the entire RV series of aircraft. Does any one feel this might work?
The new overhang will be made out of light gauge white plastic sheet from a
hobby store. It will do it's job yet crumple and fold if an occupant hits it
during an accident. I also have a plan of lighting my panel from the edge of
the glareshield. I figure the lights won't do much until they get at least
five inches from the panel. I've gotten six very small 12V light bulbs that
I will epoxy in place.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
Glenn,
Yes you will need to retime the magneto. Should only take about 2 minutes.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 5:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: vac pump install
>
> Hi,
>
> It looks like I will need to remove a magneto so that I can tighten the
> !@#$%* lower inboard nut on a Rapco vacuum pump. It is installed on an
> O-360A1A with a spin on oil filter & dual mags.
>
> If I remove the magneto for this purpose, will I need to retime the mag
> if I can precisely mark its position before I remove it?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: RV-List: Fax." (Nov 18, 1:47pm)
Hey Bryan!
Okay, I'm a dork. I'm out here in the shop now and I'm thinking, "I
just can't believe that I lost that sheet..." But alas, I still can't
find it. Then, the Sk-5 of the right elevator gets knocked of the
work bench at one point... As it falls to the floor I notice that
this particular Sketch appears to be DOUBLE SIDED! Oh Crap, guess
what's on the back side? Yup, Sketch 6 - left elevator with trim
tab cutout. Should have known that Van's wouldn't be wasting paper
like that! Anyway, comparing the two drawings - the one you FAX'd
me and my old one from 1988 - the tab cut dimensions seem a lot more
clear in 1988. If you'd like, I'd be happy to forward a copy of
my drawing back to you.
In any case, thank you for your help!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763
>--------------
>
>Hi Bryan!
>
>Hey thanks for the FAX. I received it this morning. My manual is circa
>1988 so your drawing looked different than what I remembered mine
>looking like. I think that I was had was just a print of the dimensions
>for the trimtab itself. On the one you FAXed me, I think I can guess
>what it should be, but still it seems like there should be a print that
>calls out the actual numbers. Do you have anything like that??
>
>Thanks for the help, Bryan!
>
>Matt
>
>
>>--------------
>>
>>Matt,
>>Did you get my fax of the trim tab cut out this morning and was it the right
>>page you were looking for?
>>
>>**** Bryan E. Files ****
>>Ever Fly Maintenance
>>Palmer, Alaska
>>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>>--------------
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
> If the main alternator fails, the bus voltage sags and
> the aux alternator comes on automatically. The "AUX ALT
> LOADED" light illuminates. If system loads are too great
> for the SD-20, the light flashes until you reduce loads
> to 20A or below whereupon it stops flashing.
Does the SD-8 work the same way? Same warning light?
Thanks again Bob,
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
>Glenn,
>Yes you will need to retime the magneto. Should only take about 2 minutes.
Woah not so fast.... I did this and tried timing my mag and no joy. Made
some calls... found out that's what happens if you put it back on with the
gear not aligned at the correct orientation (thought it hadn't rotated but
evidently it did). You need to take the cap off the mag (Slick) and stick a
#40 drill bit in the alignment hole and rotate the gear till the hole
underneath lines up, with the engine at TDC on #1. The alignment hole is
tricky to find -- several cams and slots under there that act very much like
the right one but aren't. Get a bright light and LOOK in the hole to make
sure there are really two HOLES that line up. Then carefully put the mag
back on in the same orientation it was on there before, and time the mags.
Or better yet get the fancy wrench and leave the mag on!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Hickman's" <hickman(at)ebicom.net> |
| Subject: | Preview plans/videos |
Hi,
Anyone out there need a set of RV-6/6A preview plans and the George Orndorff
RV-6/6A Quickbuild videos? Price is right--tapes and plans are both new,
less than 3 weeks old. Bought to investigate building an RV and have decided
on another airplane. Please e-mail me off line if you are interested.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - Lycoming O360-A4A - Excellent Cond. |
How did you clean the engine and what type paint did you use? I would
like to make mine look like that.
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> For Sale:
>
> Lycoming O360-A4A
> -----------------
>
> * 180 hp
> * 950 SMOH
> * Complete Logs
> * Solid Crank
> * Removed from wind-damaged Cherokee 180
> * Starter ring
> * Cleaned and repainted
>
> All brand-new accessories include:
>
> * Slick mags (new, not rebuilt)
> * Fuel Pump (new, not rebuilt)
> * B&C Lightweight Starter (new)
> * Van's alternator kit, 60amp (new)
> * 8 plugs (new)
> * Ignition harness (new)
> * Ellison TBFI (new)
> * Valve covers and silicone gaskets (new)
> * Oil Filter (new)
>
> This is a really nice engine. It came from a wind-damaged Cherokee 180.
> When I received it (at 950 SMOH), I removed all of the old existing
> accessories, and replaced them with brand new as described above. I
> also completely cleaned the outside, stripped the old paint and
> repainted in the red as shown in the pictures.
>
> The price also includes the original carburetor, in good condition.
> Shown in the pictures, but not included in the price is the X-over
> exhaust and Woofter prop extension. The prop extension is available at
> extra cost ($275). I plan to keep the exhaust system. I might be
> willing to unbundle the Ellison TBFI if you're not interested in it.
>
> I have decided to sell this engine because I am planning to put a
> constant speed prop on my RV-4 and this engine has a solid crankshaft.
> Its a beautiful engine, though, and I really hate to give it up since
> I've put a lot of work into cleaning it up and upgrading the
> accessories.
>
> Please note that while it looks new, it actually has 950 hours since a
> first major overhaul. I have the complete engine logs including all of
> the maintenance history.
>
> I am in Livermore California which is on the West Coast near San
> Francisco. If you're local and can pick it up, that's great. If not, I
> would be willing to crate it up nicely and have it shipped by truck to
> you. I will pay for the crating, but you will be responsible for all
> shipping charges.
>
> Below are a number of photos I just took of the engine from various
> angles. The pictures do it justice.
>
> I can accept Visa or Mastercard for full or partial payment, although
> this will cost an additional 3% to cover my expense.
>
> Here are some current photos of the engine:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine1.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine2.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine3.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine4.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine5.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/engine/engine6.jpg
>
> Price: Asking $13,750
>
> Please email with questions, or interest.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-4 #1763
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
No need to remove. Use a long punch to rotate the nut and tighten it.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 10:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: vac pump install
>
>Hi,
>
>It looks like I will need to remove a magneto so that I can tighten the
>!@#$%* lower inboard nut on a Rapco vacuum pump. It is installed on an
>O-360A1A with a spin on oil filter & dual mags.
>
>If I remove the magneto for this purpose, will I need to retime the mag
>if I can precisely mark its position before I remove it?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Capacity Markings |
Listers,
There has been some discussion lately about what qty. should be on the caps
(total vs. usable gallons). FWIW, my completed 6A is marked as follows:
The fuel caps are marked with total fuel. This tells anyone looking at the
tank how much fuel can be squeezed into this funny looking piece of aluminum.
The fuel selector in the cockpit is marked with usable fuel. This tells the
pilot how much fuel can be burned per side prior to needing a glider rating.
This seemed logical to me. Then again, it seemed logical to order four big
boxes of aluminum, fiberglass and steel, pound it together in the garage and
then fly it all over the country at 200 mph while refering to myself as
"experimental".
Hope this helps,
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
>
>> If the main alternator fails, the bus voltage sags and
>> the aux alternator comes on automatically. The "AUX ALT
>> LOADED" light illuminates. If system loads are too great
>> for the SD-20, the light flashes until you reduce loads
>> to 20A or below whereupon it stops flashing.
>
>Does the SD-8 work the same way? Same warning light?
No, it's regulator is much less sophisticated. However,
with an SD-8/L40 or L60 combo you'll get timely
notification of main alternator failure. The low
voltage light on the main ailternator will flash IF
your system loads exceed the 10 amp capability of the
SD-8 . . . so once again, reduce loads until the light
stops flashing . . . it's just a different light.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | EAA-486 Flyin, Thanks! It was fantastic! |
Re: RV Forum/Fly-in on Sept 25, 1999.
This was my first RV Forum/Fly-in. Matter of fact, it was the first
time I'd seen/touched a real live RV. The day was nothing short of
fantastic, start to finish. I almost didn't make it because of the
torturously long drive, but Fred Stuchlen saved me. We flew up in his
RV-6a, another amazing "first"!
I've put together a little collage of the "Sights & Sounds" at your RV
Fly-in, "From a novice point of view". I think that it may give the
neophytes like me an unbiased look at what an RV airplane is really
like. (the "old hands" already know this, ha!)
Feel free to download and use the photos as you wish.
Thanks again,
RJ in CT, (riveting wings with a smile)
EAA-486 RV Forum=> http://www.vtxpress.com/rv6/eaa486_flyin_92599.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
>Bob, does this mean that if I want a turn co-ordinator I should plan a noise
>filter from the begginning?
No, please don't add a filter just 'cause someone else
has reported a problem . . . you only need to do this IF
your sure your situation is identical to the other guy's.
A builder called me about 10 years ago and spent about
5 minutes describing all the shielding and filtering he'd
done on his airplane and then asked, "What else do I need?"
I asked, "Gee, I dunno, what kind of noise problem do you
have".
"Oh," sez he, "No problem, I haven't flown the airplane
yet."
He had hours, dollars and pounds invested in noise abatement
techniques that vast majority of which he probably didn't
need.
If your T/C is a KNOWN antagonist, meaning that a number
of people have the same make and model and fixed a noise
problem by adding a filter, then it's a good bet that you'll
need it also. But lacking that kind of situation, don't
hang filters on things until a problem manifests itself
and you've identified source, propogation path, and victim.
(See chapter on Noise Abatement in my book).
>Also, does the Navaid autopilot/turn co-ordinator need one too?
I've not heard of anyone needing to filter the Navaid. (Has
anyone else out there been aware of a Navaid noise problem?)
>Can two devices share the same noise filter?
Sometimes . . . but remember that a single power source
for two devices makes them vulnerable to single points
of failure for both devices. One device craps and takes
out the fuse for both.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
>Bob,
>
>The push on male and female connectors in question come with the
>thermocouples supplied by Electronics International for their EGT/CHT
>instruments. They look like the AMP PIDG, Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip,
>terminals. These terminals are double crimp, nylon insulated and have a
>gripping finish on the inside surface of the barrel.
>
>I selected EI Instruments because I got the impression from the RV-List
>that EI instruments are reliable.
There's nothing like making a decision based on favorable history.
>A point you make often and very correctly, is that there are thousands
flying.
. . . further, the wires you're describing don't cause things
to spin down if they come apart . . . although I'm surprised
that a company like EI didn't recommend/supply knife splices
with their installation instructions. I'd just like for people
to have a heads-up on this technique and ponder the alternatives
before spending the time and dollars to implement it.
Your note raises another flag . . . thermocouple wires are
much harder than copper. Stranded thermocouple wire does make
a pretty reliable joint in a PIDG crimp, but single strand wire
is better spliced with real, thermocouple connectors. There's
a company called Omega Engineering who sells them and they
have a website.
>This is an opportunity to thank you for your coaching over the years via
>the RV-List, your book and your seminars. I have used many of your
>ideas. My system is based on two spade fuse blocks,a 20 and a 10. This
>concept has made the design and fabrication of the wiring system very easy.
>I mounted these fuse blocks on the forward web of the subpanel. They are
>hinged at the bottom so that they swing down below the panel and now face
>aft for replacement of the fuses. I have only two resettable fuses on the
>panel, one for your regulator to crowbar and one for the flaps.
I'm pleased to have been of service.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | digital tach and fixed pitch prop |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i am thinking of purchasing the technology kitchen engine power monitor
(EPM). this is the one that will display percent power along with manifold
pressure and rpm on the main display. (it has other pages that will display
OAT, PA, DA, flight time, and tach time.)
anyway, the tach will display to the nearest 1 RPM. i think most other
digital tachs (EI or JPI) round off to the nearest 10 rpm. since i am
planning on using a fixed pitch prop, i am concerned that the rpm will be
fluctuating enough to make the display change constantly. the instrument
does have filters, but i am talking about real rpm changes, not just noise
in the sensors. the instrument will be placed in a position where it would
be very distracting to be flickering away.
anyone have any experience with a digital tach and a fixed pitch prop? any
recommendations?
if you are interested in the EPM, they have a nice website with a very cool
demo at
http://www.technologykitchen.com/demo.htm
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Sizing (was Another How To Page) |
>I feel like I'm sending an e-mail to the two experts . . . so here goes . .
Hey, it's nice when there's more than one doctor in town when
your looking for answers . . .
>Bob and John . . . what is recommended where you want to be able to do a
>wiring disconnect (for example, tail light going into fuselage . . . nav
>lights going into wing ribs). What do you use, where do you get it . . .
>and if it needs a crimping tool, what do you recommend? I know this is
>basic, but you can save me a bunch of reading.
>Thanks in advance,
Are your talking about wing roots, etc? Do you plan folding or
removable wings? I know of very few certified ships that have
had wings removed even once in their 30+ year lifetimes. Unless
you PLAN to open and remate electrical connections a lot, then
run solid wires through the area. Put service loops in of about
6" of wire so that if you ever DO pull the wings, you have slack
to accomodate butt splices . . . the single most reliable means
for rejoining an opened wire.
For wires at fixture locations, again, the butt slice is the
#1 choice for dealing with single wires. The likelihood that
you're going to cut out and replace a splice more than once
over the lifetime of the airplane is very small.
Nav lights are unique in terms of power distribution. They
are two amps each and you could wire with 22AWG wire for each
bulb but you have to breaker the system for total loads of
6+ amps. This means that you have to use a 7A breaker/fuse
as a minimum which drives wire size to 20AWG. If it's a composite
airplane, using 18AWG will get you a little more light at the
lamps 'cause the round trip is longer for power and ground . . .
and 18AWG wire in nav light circuits wouldn't be out of line.
Stay with a 7A fuse.
Does this help?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another How To Page |
>
>Thanks for the comments. I couldn't agree with you more about Male and
Female
>Tab Connectors. As it said on our page "we are not endorsing this
>technique." I added a bunch of info to the page to clarify my position on
>Fast Ons and why I posted this page.
> AAMR/AirCore-The
Bob
>Haan Solution
>
>Please take a look at your convenience and thanks for all you do and provide
>in the way of info. It's very helpful.
Understand. I'm pleased that you're a member of the
"lets do the best we know how to do" club. Our
craft can only get better (as long as the FAA stays
out of it!).
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Preview plans/videos |
Please let us know which other aircraft you are interested in. The fact that
you were interested enough in a Vans a/c and considered it means that you are
on a track that most of us are/were on.....what is on your short list ??
hickman(at)ebicom.net on 11/09/99 12:48:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Preview plans/videos
Hi,
Anyone out there need a set of RV-6/6A preview plans and the George Orndorff
RV-6/6A Quickbuild videos? Price is right--tapes and plans are both new,
less than 3 weeks old. Bought to investigate building an RV and have decided
on another airplane. Please e-mail me off line if you are interested.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 22 Gallons it is! |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> We only had one vote for 21 gallons, and since Scott McD's post, I
> think 22
> gallons should be the standard. If any of you -8 builders still
> want 21
> gallons instead, I am sure Steve could work them in...but as a
> default,
> the -8 caps will be 22 gallons...
>
Paul,
I guess you miss understood me.
What I said was... There are no customer kit built RV-8's or 8A's that
hold 22 gallons.
The most you can get in the tanks is 21 gallons.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | alternator switch/breaker |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers (especially Electric Bob),
i would like to use a combination circuit breaker/switch for the alternator
field circuit. the advantage would be in not having a push-pull cb on the
panel. the disadvantage would be having to use another switch for the
battery contactor, and the extra work of having to throw two switches in
normal ops.
is there any other reason to use a combo battery and alternator switch with
a separate breaker.
i am planning a dual alt, single battery system. it would seem to be good
design if i had one switch for the battery, one cb/switch for the main alt,
and one cb/switch for the standby alt.
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | vac pump install |
Glen Gordon wrote:
It looks like I will need to remove a magneto so that I can tighten the
!@#$%* lower inboard nut on a Rapco vacuum pump. It is installed on an
O-360A1A with a spin on oil filter & dual mags.
If I remove the magneto for this purpose, will I need to retime the mag
if I can precisely mark its position before I remove it?
Glen, I had to change the RAPCO pump on my O360A1A earlier this summer. I
found that by putting a 90 degree bend in a couple of discount store box
end wrenches I was able to get at that nut without removing the mag. They
bend easily when heated with a propane torch. I had to do two wrenches -
one with the angle each way - its pretty tight.
This seems to be standard practice around the "T hangers" here - a couple
of guys suggested doing it. Amazing what pilots will go through to save a
few bucks on a special tool - two of these guys were flying twins for
crying out loud!
I have found that removing and retiming the mags is not difficult. But
because of the way I set up my prop governer control its a little tougher
than normal on my engine so I made the wrenches.
Keith Williams
RV6 - Moline Illiinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> RV8'ers,
>
> I said a few days ago that I would let ya'll know how I did the fuel line
> from the selector to the left fuel tank with flop tube. Well, I chose to use
> a 90 degree bulkhead fitting (AN833). It is a MUCH better and cleaner
> installation in my opinion. I tried to route a single piece of tubing as
> per plans, but it was just too much knuckle-busting and tube-kinking for my
> liking. The short piece from the selector to the fitting is a bit of a
> challenge, but it was easier to manage since it could be bent and fitted
> while sitting in the front seat without the outside length sticking through
> the side skin complicating matters even more. The outer piece was very easy
> to make, with only a 90 degree bend at the front end where it pokes through
> the tank attach bracket and onto the flop tube fitting. If I can wrestle the
> digital camera away from my wife, I'll try to take some pics of the
> installation.
I used another method of plumbing the standard pickups on my RV-6 tanks.
Likewise, the idea of bending the aluminum tubing a couple of times in
the confined space between the tank and fuse didn't appeal to me.
The fuel line was brought through the fuse and then bent in a gentle 90
degree turn with a couple of inches of line remaining. A beading tool
was used to form a bead on the end of the line. I went back to the speed
shop where I bought the stuff for the oil lines and purchased three feet
of #8 braided hose and two 90 degree fittings for the pickups. A line
for each tank was fabricated, the fitting going to the tank, and the
other end of the hose was slipped over the bead on the fuse line and
secured with a hose clamp.
Easy, quick, and simple (but not all that cheap...). Enough slack was
left in the hose so it wouldn't have a tendency to kink.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 52 hrs.)
"The RV Journal" http://www.home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 22 Gallons it is! |
Yeah...I just corrected it..once again, too many beers last night...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 22 Gallons it is!
>
>
>> We only had one vote for 21 gallons, and since Scott McD's post, I
>> think 22
>> gallons should be the standard. If any of you -8 builders still
>> want 21
>> gallons instead, I am sure Steve could work them in...but as a
>> default,
>> the -8 caps will be 22 gallons...
>>
>Paul,
>I guess you miss understood me.
>What I said was... There are no customer kit built RV-8's or 8A's that
>hold 22 gallons.
>The most you can get in the tanks is 21 gallons.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator switch/breaker |
>
>listers (especially Electric Bob),
>
>i would like to use a combination circuit breaker/switch for the alternator
>field circuit. the advantage would be in not having a push-pull cb on the
>panel. the disadvantage would be having to use another switch for the
>battery contactor, and the extra work of having to throw two switches in
>normal ops.
Please check out the power distribution diagrams downloadable
from our website (when it's working . . . I'm still thrashing
that issue). Normal ops should NOT require more than one switch
as a DC power master.
>is there any other reason to use a combo battery and alternator switch with
>a separate breaker.
>i am planning a dual alt, single battery system. it would seem to be good
>design if i had one switch for the battery, one cb/switch for the main alt,
>and one cb/switch for the standby alt.
Been there, done that, it's been carefully thought out and
installed on dozens of aircraft. A single switch for DC power
on main alt/bat, another switch for aux alt and one pullable
cb for crowbar ov service and the very occasional times you
need to disable the alternator for battery only operations.
If you don't want the CB on the panel, put it on a bracket you
can reach from the pilot's seat but out of sight.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Gear driven alternator |
I'm thinking about installing a B&C gear driven alternator in my RV-6A. The
AS&S catalog gives a brief description. It says that it is an 8 amp unit.
Limited feedback from the List indicates that it is reliable. My
plane-to-be will be day, VFR with a radio, turn & bank indicator,
micro-encoder and transponder. I would use this as my only alternator. I
have two questions. Am I crazy, or is this workable? Can I get information
about the B&C alternator on the internet?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild |
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 12:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild
>
>
>> Another question I have is about night flying. I find that there is a
>> terrible glare on the canopy at night and when I land I almost have to
>turn
>> the instrument lighting off in order to clear my forward vision. Any
>> thoughts there?
>
>I am planning a 5 inch glaresheid above the panel in my RV6A. This will
>hopefully cut out that reflection that I have heard a few people mention in
>the entire RV series of aircraft. Does any one feel this might work?
>
>The new overhang will be made out of light gauge white plastic sheet from a
>hobby store. It will do it's job yet crumple and fold if an occupant hits
it
>during an accident. I also have a plan of lighting my panel from the edge
of
>the glareshield. I figure the lights won't do much until they get at least
>five inches from the panel. I've gotten six very small 12V light bulbs that
>I will epoxy in place.
>
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
Norman,
I have spent quite a few hours "in the dark" experimenting with panel and
cabin lighting because I really enjoy night flying. The glare shield will
really have to stick out a dangerous and annoying distance to be effective
in shielding sunlight glare. Five inches may be ok for panel reflections in
the canopy -- I haven't worried about that (yet?).
I put some JC Whitney strip lights under the glare shield in the hopes of
flooding the panel with light. The light is at a grazing angle on the panel
and simply casts ugly long shadows. However, it makes a GREAT map light!
You can see the installation at Mike Nellis' great RV site:
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log/DennisPersyk.htm
I would personally question the frangability ("crumple and fold") of hobby
styrene sheet. It has pretty good strength in compression!
Good luck.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Those of you that have injected engines. Did you use aluminum fuel
lines?
If so, are the lines that come with the kit OK for the higher pressure?
Cecil Hatfield
RV6A
Thousand Oaks, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
This is a test. Please ignore.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Crimp, Solder or Both? |
>Robert,
>Do you recommend soldered connections always or are crimped ones
>satisfactory.
>
>Eric
Funny you should ask. I've JUST uploaded an updated article
I published about 4 years ago in Kit Aircraft Builder. Please
download:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/terminal.pdf
. . . the short answer is leave your soldering iron in
the toolbox. Take the time to understand what crimped
terminals are about, how to use the tools for applying
them and selecting terminals for use on your project.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Our website woes . . . |
For the Nth time, my service provider's rep tells me
that they've figured out the problem . . . just checked
it myself and things seem to be working right.
If anyone is still having trouble accessing our files,
try clearing out the cache files of your browser. Seems
an attempt to get into the bogus server equipment may have
left some vestiges of bad urls on your browser's
cache files. Feedback from the field would be welcome
on this. I've been fighting it for two weeks now!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Placards |
Derrick,
You are correct. But they are good guidelines for us to follow.
MIke Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Thu, 18 Nov 1999 8:17:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Derrick
L. Aubuchon" writes:
>
> I believe part 23 deals with airworthiness standards for normal,
> utility, acrobatic, and commuter categories only,, and not
> experimental.
>
> I could be wrong here,, so help me out if I am misinterpreting.
>
>
> >
> > 23.1557 Miscellaneous Markings and Placards.
> >
> >(a) Baggage and cargo compartments, and ballast location. Each baggage and
> >cargo compartment, and each ballast location, must have a placard stating
> >any limitations on contents, including weight, that are necessary under
> >the
> >loading requirements.
> >
> >(b) Seats. If the maximum allowable weight to be carried in a seat is
> >less than
> >170 pounds, a placard stating the lesser weight must be permanently
> >attached to the seat structure.
> >
> >(c) Fuel and oil filler openings. The following apply:
> >
> >(1) Fuel filler openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with-
> >
> >(i) For reciprocating engine-powered airplanes-
> >
> >(A) The word "Avgas"; and
> >
> >(B) The minimum fuel grade.
> >
> >**** Bryan E. Files ****
> >Ever Fly Maintenance
> >Palmer, Alaska
> >A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> >mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
> Derrick L. Aubuchon
> n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Placard |
Kevin,
Thanks for the reply. Like I said that's why I don't even get concerned with the
fuel quantity as very few people but us fly our aircraft and we KNOW how much
fuel goes into our tanks. Planning purposes for the unfamiliar is the only
reason for fuel quantity placarding in the first place.
Fuel grade is a thing that I "suggest" to the owners. If it says AVGAS then that
is ok as that means any grade is ok where the fueler is concerned but if an
aircraft has an IO-360 that requires 100 grade o r better then I suggest the
owner put that on the placard. But if they don't then that is their thing and
it will not hold up their airworhtiness cert.
Again, thanks for the reply.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Starting on Canopy (gulp!!)
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:13:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kevin Horton
writes:
>
>
> >
> >Kevin,
> >
> >I knew this was going to pop up as soon as I saw the reference. You are
> >right...technically. And as you are in the land above this may not apply,
> >but the answer is....Would you maybe want to slightly delay certification of
> >your loving airplane while you argue that technicality with your local FAA
> >inspector who is saying that he won't issue your airworthiness certificate
> >without it. There has been so many cassed of the wrong fuel being put in
> >aircraft tanks over time that it is silly not to do it for just that little
> >extra added safety benefit. And while I personally do not get carried away
> >with the fuel quantity markings on the tank there is good reason for it on
> >Standard category aircraft. The reason I say this is because it is not very
> >often that we let anybody else take over lovely pets and go fly them.
> >
> >Again, you are right but there are good valid safety reasons for going ahead
> >and doing it.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
> >"Das Fed"
> >
> >
> Hi Mike,
>
> My posting only referred to the regulatory requirement, or lack thereof.
>
> I would hope that inspectors would stick to the regulations. If they
> consider that it is safer to have a higher standard than that
> required by the regulations, they should make a recommendation to the
> builder. But it should be up to the builder whether to follow this
> recommendation or not.
>
> I will agree wholeheartedly that there is a big safety benefit to
> having the fuel type clearly marked near the filler cap. But, I see
> no point in having the tank quantity by the filler cap, unless it is
> in a big enough font to be seen from the cockpit, which is where the
> only guy who needs the info is sitting. The refueler doesn't need it
> - he fills it until it is full.
>
> Note that FAR 23 only requires the fuel filler placard to say "AVGAS"
> and the minimum fuel grade. There is no requirement for tank
> quantity that I can find.
>
> I had a look at the Transport Canada regulations for amateur built
> aircraft, and couldn't find any requirement for placards up here
> either. My aircraft will have placard similar to that required for
> FAR 23 approved aircraft, unless I learn of some other requirement up
> here. At the rate I'm going, I've got lots of time to do research :-)
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOB: Two Alternator Power Distribution Diagram |
>Looking at your diagram, if you have an over voltage
>condition won't you open both field fuses? In this
>fault your no better than having one alternator. Or
>did I miss something?
Very good question! With the OV protection systems
of yesteryear, the condition you suggest would happen.
A single overvoltage condition would trip both alternators
off line. IF one uses the B&C regulators, they've
been fitted with selective trip circuitry . . . the
ov protection KNOWS if his alternator or some other
source is responsable for the ov condition. Only the
failed system is tripped off line.
If you build up a dual alternator system using automotive
regulators and my crowbar ov modules, you will indeed
trip both alternators off at the same time . . . you
reset the breakers for one system at a time and only
once to decide which is the failed system. In either
case, you still have the reliability of two alternators,
you don't have the convenience of automatic failure
diagnosis.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
>I'm thinking about installing a B&C gear driven alternator in my RV-6A. The
>AS&S catalog gives a brief description. It says that it is an 8 amp unit.
>Limited feedback from the List indicates that it is reliable. My
>plane-to-be will be day, VFR with a radio, turn & bank indicator,
>micro-encoder and transponder. I would use this as my only alternator. I
>have two questions. Am I crazy, or is this workable? Can I get information
>about the B&C alternator on the internet?
Sure. Day vfr loads is exactly what the SD-8 was designed for.
That was B&C's first product that came on the market about 18
years ago to support Ez builders with some day/vfr electrical
system. There are MANY sport bi-planes flying with an SD-8
as sole source of power.
The SD-8 has evolved to a 10 amp machine . . . all in all,
a robust, light and reliable alternative to more conventional
alternator/battery systems.
For more info, call B&C at 1.316.283.8000
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | A Boeing 767 question |
I think Boeing should also make this modification(split elevator) to the
landing gear system . They should give a landing gear handle to the pilot
for the left main gear, one to the co-pilot for the right main gear,
hmm...(767, two person crew) that leaves the nosegear to the stews. With
this modification the crew can vote on the landing gear configuration they
would like to land in that day. If something happens like a landing gear
handle catches on fire or something they would still have use of the other
two handles. Gee, I hope they get at least two mains..... :
)
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Having too much fun in ....
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 22 Gallons it is! |
Scott: Tryed to reply to you direct on my RV6-A -QB but my mail is returned
!!
----------
> From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 22 Gallons it is!
> Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:26 PM
>
>
>
> > We only had one vote for 21 gallons, and since Scott McD's post, I
> > think 22
> > gallons should be the standard. If any of you -8 builders still
> > want 21
> > gallons instead, I am sure Steve could work them in...but as a
> > default,
> > the -8 caps will be 22 gallons...
> >
> Paul,
> I guess you miss understood me.
> What I said was... There are no customer kit built RV-8's or 8A's that
> hold 22 gallons.
> The most you can get in the tanks is 21 gallons.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-3B - Sliding Canopy. |
DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> i have a rv3a and am thinking of putting a slider canopy on. does anybody
> know where to order parts for this? also the approximate price?
>
> thanks
> dan carley
>
>
> Dan, the slider is home grown. You get to build it yourself!!! Imagine
> that?? I can help you with some of the parts needed--but, it's a "cut and
> fit" type of an affair. I'll put together some pictures and drawings of my
> canopy system for you--but, it will take a few weeks to get things
> together. So, unless you are willing to take your airplane down for a few
> months and endure some building frustration, I would stay with what you
> have. But, let me know and I will try to help as much as I can.
> Chuck-RV-3's forever!!!! PS: be sure to order Van's 2000 calendar ---you'll
> want to have your own copy ---RED RV-3s make great subjects!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
IGNORED!!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 1:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: test
>
>This is a test. Please ignore.
>
>Matt
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
Yes
In a message dated Fri, 19 Nov 1999 2:52:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, cecilth(at)juno.com
writes:
>
> Those of you that have injected engines. Did you use aluminum fuel
> lines?
> If so, are the lines that come with the kit OK for the higher pressure?
> Cecil Hatfield
> RV6A
> Thousand Oaks, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Hickman's" <hickman(at)ebicom.net> |
| Subject: | Preview plans/videos |
Mike,
How about 90 dollars for the both, I pay shipping? Let me know, since your
email had the earliest time stamp on it, you get first shot.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nightingale Michael [mailto:NightingaleMichael(at)JDCorp.deere.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 19, 1999 9:17 AM
> To: 'The Hickman's '
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Preview plans/videos
>
>
> Bill:
>
> what the going price?
>
> plz advise.
>
> mike nightingale
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: The Hickman's
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: 11/9/99 11:48 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Preview plans/videos
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Anyone out there need a set of RV-6/6A preview plans and the George
> Orndorff
> RV-6/6A Quickbuild videos? Price is right--tapes and plans are both
> new,
> less than 3 weeks old. Bought to investigate building an RV and have
> decided
> on another airplane. Please e-mail me off line if you are interested.
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Henney" <mikeh(at)ghpd.com> |
| Subject: | How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong size |
bolt spec'd?
What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Henney
Parker, Colorado
RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A |
- wrong size bolt spec'd?
>
>What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
>ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
>end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
>
>Any suggestions?
Half is about right, Mike. Do each step of the construction twice,
including each part you have to make yourself.
I used a table saw, made them overlength and filed till they were
right. Slipping the tube over a bolt and clamping it in a vise helps.
Ideally, use a lathe. One could probably make up a tool for the drill
press - spinning the tube against a cutter.
I wonder how long soft aluminum spacers last where there is movement possible.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? |
Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on
before mounting the engine. Figgers!
I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple
will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final argument
for electric gyros?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - |
wrong size bolt spec'd?
A tubing cutter should be good enough to keep the spacer square. As
for length, I'd make the space a little long and use the sliding "T" square
on a disc sander to grind it down to the right length. Depending on the
accuracy needed, you might want to use vernier calipers to measure overall
length and just grind a little at a time until the desired length is
reached......or.....do what I do and find a small jewlers lathe at a garage
for $165 and use it.
Mike
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log
From: Mike Henney@mikeh on 11/19/99 03:02 PM
To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron
bellcrank RV6A - wrong size bolt spec'd?
What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with
square
ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright
wheel, but
end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not
square.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Henney
Parker, Colorado
RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - |
wrong size bolt spec'd?
I use a tubing cutter and make them a little over-long. Then I use a file
and carefully resize and square them off. I make a few that I can't use,
too. I keep them, maybe to use again.
It reminds me of something I read once. It was an account a fellow wrote
about learning to be a gunsmith. He went into the shop and his first
assignment was to take a lump of steel, a file and a micrometer and make a
perfect cube. Any size would do. He was told to work at it until he was
done and then they would give him the next assignment. He said that he
learned more about careful shop work from the week that it took to complete
the job than in anything else he had ever done.
This airplane building is supposed to be educational ...
Steve Soule, RV-6A engine installation
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Henney [mailto:mikeh(at)ghpd.com]
Sent: Friday, November 19, 1999 4:02 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron
bellcrank RV6A - wrong size bolt spec'd?
What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and
with square
ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch
bright wheel, but
end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short
or not square.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Henney
Parker, Colorado
RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
Listers -
Made a mistake in my note to Glen on bending wrenches for that hard to
reach nut. Its an open end wrench I meant (and bent) - not a box end.
Keith Williams
RV6 - Moline IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A |
- wrong size bolt spec'd?
Mike,
Cut the tubing a bit over length, chuck one end in an air drill, run the
drill while holding the end of the tubing up to a Scotch brite wheel
running on your bench grinder, reverse the tubing in the drill and finish
off the other end.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
>
>What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
>ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
>end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Henney
>Parker, Colorado
>RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Quickbuild or regular |
I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready to
buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to start
an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB, but
$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost of
the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some opinions
from experienced builders, especially from those that are not mechanically
inclined.
Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross
country aircraft with 180hp engine.
If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out and
look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process. I
have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some trouble
just figuring everything out.
Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a long
time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't want
to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and realize
that I can't hack it.
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Henney <mikeh(at)ghpd.com>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 3:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong
size bolt spec'd?
>
>What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
>ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
>end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Henney
>Parker, Colorado
>RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
Chuck the rough-cut tubing in an small battery-powered electric drill and
rotate the piece against the side of the Scotch-Brite wheel. This will give
you a square face. Chamfer the outside edge by rotating at a 45 degree
angle. Finish up with a light pass with the deburring tool to get the ID.
Length is a matter of judgment.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit redoing lots of spacers
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
whoa..lots of info on the archives here...I can speak from the quickbuild
perspective, and kind of speak on the standard kit, as I have helped a
friend off an on with his.
If time is not a factor, and you really want to save the $8K, then get the
standard kit. Your skills will develop as you go along. It is not rocket
science, by any means. Just takes some patience and working the learning
curve. The quickbuild does most operations the standard kit does, just on a
lighter and less frequent level. You still have to fabricate parts, rivet
all kinds of rivets (except spar rivets), fit skins, etc, etc.
If you value your time at all, get the quickbuild...it is an enormous amount
of work with the quickbuild, and I could not even imagine doing the whole
kit. The important thing is, you have to like building, or you will hit a
wall and might not finish.
I have absolutely no regrets getting the quickbuild. As a matter of fact,
had I not, I would be kicking myself by now. My project will take over two
years. I would think double that for the standard kit.
As far as cost goes, I will have $60K in mine. That is with a VFR panel with
a few extra goodies, lights, strobes, autopilot, GPS/Comm, inexpensive
interior, Aero Sport Power engine (that was $13K). Many standard builders
have done it for $30-$35, but that is VERY basic, with a part run engine,
etc.
My website has detailed information regarding the construction process of
the quickbuild, while Sam Buchanan has a website with detailed information
about the standard kit.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 3:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>
>I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready
to
>buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
>quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to start
>an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB,
but
>$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost of
>the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some
opinions
>from experienced builders, especially from those that are not mechanically
>inclined.
>Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross
>country aircraft with 180hp engine.
>If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
>airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out
and
>look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process. I
>have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some
trouble
>just figuring everything out.
>Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a
long
>time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't
want
>to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and
realize
>that I can't hack it.
>Jim Arnold
>j_arnold(at)swbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? |
Hal,
I put a 45 degree AN 823-4D into the port next to the vacuum pump. To do this
you will need a 7/16" Crowsfoot to tighten it. If the vacuum pump is already
installed, it will be in the way. In fact, I had to remove the vacuum pump
standoff pad as well as one of the studs to get the fitting in there. Make
sure you remove the stud properly with two nuts (jammed together on the stud)
to remove the stud.
Another option that Scott at Van's gave me utilized the oil pressure fitting
next to the motor mount. It involved using a Weatherhead brass 45 degree
Street Elbow. AC spruce #3350x2.
I went with the first method.
A word of caution. These two ports are the only two on the engine that the
Lycoming rep said were acceptable places to measure "Regulated oil pressure".
Hope this helps,
Glenn Gordon
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on
> before mounting the engine. Figgers!
>
> I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple
> will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final argument
> for electric gyros?
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pop Rivet Filling Tip |
Here's a nifty little trick I came up with for filling in the hole in pop
rivets:
Get a syringe from the local drugstore (Hint: They give 'em away so people
can propely dose infants and the like... Just ask.). Fill the syringe with
a microbaloon/epoxy slurry. Use the syringe to inject this mix into the hole
left when the mandril came out of the pop rivet.
This has greatly reduced the mess I make when filling in pop's...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
<>
I'd give a big YES on that one. You'll save hundreds of dollars on primer,
proseal, specialized tools (fuel tank dimple dies, for example), and parts to
replace the ones you screw up. This'll bring the $8k difference down some.
Also, you can avoid the tedium of drilling and dimpling holes for 1,000's of
rivets, driving those rivets, etc. BTW, I have the standard kit.
<< Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross
country aircraft with 180hp engine. >>
Try Van's new website. It has a cost estimator which was right on the money
for my airplane.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Builders in Ft. Worth |
Are there any builders groups in the Ft. Worth area? Do they mind if a
non-owner comes to meetings or offers to help other builders to be able to
gain some experience?
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
have you considered having the prop dynamically
balanced at a prop shop? In my experience you will
have a smoother running prop at all speeds and less
vibration just a thought.
Glenn Williams
8a wings
--- Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
>
>
> > I have vibrations at 1500 rpm on my RV 6 with wood
> prop.
> >
> > Prop is statically balanced and tracks OK. I
> understand the only
> > other
> > possibilities are an engine with an under
> performing cylinder or the
> > prop may have been carved with different pitch
> angles on opposite
> > blades.
> >
> > Am I missing anything ?
> >
> -
> Many people have had problems (some like this)
> caused by installing a one
> piece venturi in the carb.
> It seems that some of the new "better" venturi's
> really weren't, as far
> as engine performance goes anyway.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
I ordered and recieved my fuel gauges within 1 month
they look great. cant wait to install them
Glenn 8a wings
--- Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
>
> I am still waiting
> > on my
> > > RV6-A-QB and am about to cancel my order and get
> a Glasair II RG
> > !! Vans
> > > has been real good with lip service and delays
> on Gauges and Kits
> > ! I
> > > ordered my kit 6-26-99 and have the fax
> confirmation to prove it !
> >
> > > > << gauges i ordered
> > are on
> > > backorder
> > > > i bet a lot of you other builders are in the
> same boat! Why
> > don't we
> > > take
> > > > a pole and see if anyone has actually seen the
> complete set of
> > Vans
> > > Gauges
> > > > !!!!!! Well my RV-6A-QB will sure have a
> sparse panal !
> > Tom in
> > Ohio
> > >
> > > > >>>>
> > > >
> > > > Tom....Glad you posted this. I have been
> waiting for the new
> > catalog to
> > > come
> > > > out because I also want a full set of Van's
> gauges and thought
> > they
> > were
> > > > already shipping. Guess not. Maybe I will look
> in another
> > direction.
> > > >
>
> Yes, the new instruments have been shipped to a lot
> of builders.
>
> With a price that is only 1/2 of what the closest
> competitor sells for it
> is no wonder that they sold out immediately.
>
> Tom,
>
> Sorry to hear that you have been waiting 4 1/2
> months for your kit.
> Once again it is a problem with supply being less
> than the demand.
> Van could have priced the kits at $30,000 and still
> sold quite a few but
> not had the supply problem, but that isn't how he
> does business.
> He would prefer to price them as low as possible to
> make them affordable
> to as many people as possible (unlike many of the
> kit companies).
> Only draw back is that often people have to wait a
> bit.
>
> You mentioned Van's being really good with lip
> service...
> I assume that means you were promised a kit in much
> less than 4 1/2
> months, but you haven't received it?
> What was the time you were quoted when you placed
> your order?
> Barb told me today that depending on the model
> ordered (RV-6A with
> sliding canopy is the highest in demand) the back
> log is 4 to 5 months
> (less for some of the other models).
> If you are at 4 1/2 months then yours is likely very
> close to being
> ready.
> Suggest you give her a call and find out.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | Quickbuild or regular |
>I am getting ready to buy an RV6 and was wondering if it
>was worth the $8k extra to get the quickbuild option. I am
>worried that I might not have the knowhow to start an RV6
>from scratch.
Jim,
Buy the standard empennage kit. If you finish it and still want to
continue (and you will!), order the quickbuild kit and they will credit you
$2000 since you already have the empennage built. That way you only have a
couple grand invested (including tools) initially.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA 727MF (reserved)
RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl
Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward from Compuserve forum |
That is why there is a AD on the mags to function check them, something we
forget about as experimenters.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Forward from Compuserve forum
>
>We nearly lost a friend last week. His RV-4 had a starter problem, he
>switched the mags & master off and got out to check- while moving the prop
>it not only fired but started and smacked him across the left hand behind
>the knuckles. fortunately he fell backwards away from the prop and the
>aircraft did not move. at the hospital there were no broken bones. I talked
>to him several days later and his mag checks were normal..so the P leads
>were ok. BUT if you think about the mag switch- the off position is a
>different set of contacts- turns out his off position was intermittent,
>brand new out of the box switch from Vans with <100 hrs on the
>airplane..keep checking the real "off" once in a while. be careful out
>there! Dave Buffalo, NY (how bout our Flutie)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
Use shielded wire for the radios and have the shielding go to a different
ground.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu>
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electrical Noise
>
>Guys,
> I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
>radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
>long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
>the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
>the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
>this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
>also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
>to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
>out there?
>
>Joe
>RV-8 # 80125
>(wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders in Ft. Worth |
J hi my name is Glenn Williams I am an a&p that lives
in FT.worth and am building a RV-8A I would be happy
to show you my project and answer any questions that
you may have. If I cant answer any there are many
builders in the FT. Worth area that have been there
and done that, that can. call me at work 972-720-3365
or my cell at 817-875-8468 and by the welcome aboard
Glenn Williams
8A wings
--- "J. Arnold" wrote:
>
>
> Are there any builders groups in the Ft. Worth area?
> Do they mind if a
> non-owner comes to meetings or offers to help other
> builders to be able to
> gain some experience?
>
> Jim Arnold
> j_arnold(at)swbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
Turn it on a lathe.
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Friday, November 19, 1999 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A -
wrong size bolt spec'd?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Henney <mikeh(at)ghpd.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 3:07 PM
> Subject: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A -
wrong
> size bolt spec'd?
>
>
> >
> >What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
> >ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel,
but
> >end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not
square.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Mike Henney
> >Parker, Colorado
> >RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
>
>
> Chuck the rough-cut tubing in an small battery-powered electric drill and
> rotate the piece against the side of the Scotch-Brite wheel. This will
give
> you a square face. Chamfer the outside edge by rotating at a 45 degree
> angle. Finish up with a light pass with the deburring tool to get the ID.
> Length is a matter of judgment.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit redoing lots of spacers
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
Paul and others,
Thanks for the quick post. Paul, I have been to your web site before and
found that you did a first class job on the site. However when I went there
today...you changed it up quite a bit. You sure have put a lot of time and
effort into it and your plane. I am hoping to meet someone in the Ft. Worth
area and help build before I have to make a decision. The QB definitely
looks like the way to go...timesaver deluxe. Now just gotta talk the wife
into it...and of course get the money.
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)nospam.swbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, November 19, 1999 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>
> whoa..lots of info on the archives here...I can speak from the quickbuild
> perspective, and kind of speak on the standard kit, as I have helped a
> friend off an on with his.
>
> If time is not a factor, and you really want to save the $8K, then get the
> standard kit. Your skills will develop as you go along. It is not rocket
> science, by any means. Just takes some patience and working the learning
> curve. The quickbuild does most operations the standard kit does, just on
a
> lighter and less frequent level. You still have to fabricate parts, rivet
> all kinds of rivets (except spar rivets), fit skins, etc, etc.
>
> If you value your time at all, get the quickbuild...it is an enormous
amount
> of work with the quickbuild, and I could not even imagine doing the whole
> kit. The important thing is, you have to like building, or you will hit a
> wall and might not finish.
>
> I have absolutely no regrets getting the quickbuild. As a matter of fact,
> had I not, I would be kicking myself by now. My project will take over
two
> years. I would think double that for the standard kit.
>
> As far as cost goes, I will have $60K in mine. That is with a VFR panel
with
> a few extra goodies, lights, strobes, autopilot, GPS/Comm, inexpensive
> interior, Aero Sport Power engine (that was $13K). Many standard builders
> have done it for $30-$35, but that is VERY basic, with a part run engine,
> etc.
>
> My website has detailed information regarding the construction process of
> the quickbuild, while Sam Buchanan has a website with detailed information
> about the standard kit.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: J. Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 3:59 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>
>
> >
> >I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready
> to
> >buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
> >quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to
start
> >an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB,
> but
> >$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost
of
> >the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some
> opinions
> >from experienced builders, especially from those that are not
mechanically
> >inclined.
> >Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR
cross
> >country aircraft with 180hp engine.
> >If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
> >airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out
> and
> >look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process.
I
> >have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some
> trouble
> >just figuring everything out.
> >Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a
> long
> >time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't
> want
> >to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and
> realize
> >that I can't hack it.
> >Jim Arnold
> >j_arnold(at)swbell.net
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
Mike-
Insert a piece of tube in your drill press and cut by holding a hacksaw
blade against it a little longer than you need. Re-insert the bushing
in the drill press chuck and finish to length by holding a file against
the end of the bushing. Comes out very square.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - 6A ailerons done- on to them flaps!
Mike Henney wrote:
>
>
> What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
> ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
> end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Henney
> Parker, Colorado
> RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
For some great advice and first hand look at the construction, go talk to
George Orndorff. He has a shop at Hicks field with several RV's usually
under construction.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>
>Paul and others,
>
>Thanks for the quick post. Paul, I have been to your web site before and
>found that you did a first class job on the site. However when I went there
>today...you changed it up quite a bit. You sure have put a lot of time and
>effort into it and your plane. I am hoping to meet someone in the Ft. Worth
>area and help build before I have to make a decision. The QB definitely
>looks like the way to go...timesaver deluxe. Now just gotta talk the wife
>into it...and of course get the money.
>Jim Arnold
>j_arnold(at)nospam.swbell.net
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, November 19, 1999 5:15 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>
>
>>
>> whoa..lots of info on the archives here...I can speak from the quickbuild
>> perspective, and kind of speak on the standard kit, as I have helped a
>> friend off an on with his.
>>
>> If time is not a factor, and you really want to save the $8K, then get
the
>> standard kit. Your skills will develop as you go along. It is not
rocket
>> science, by any means. Just takes some patience and working the learning
>> curve. The quickbuild does most operations the standard kit does, just
on
>a
>> lighter and less frequent level. You still have to fabricate parts,
rivet
>> all kinds of rivets (except spar rivets), fit skins, etc, etc.
>>
>> If you value your time at all, get the quickbuild...it is an enormous
>amount
>> of work with the quickbuild, and I could not even imagine doing the whole
>> kit. The important thing is, you have to like building, or you will hit
a
>> wall and might not finish.
>>
>> I have absolutely no regrets getting the quickbuild. As a matter of
fact,
>> had I not, I would be kicking myself by now. My project will take over
>two
>> years. I would think double that for the standard kit.
>>
>> As far as cost goes, I will have $60K in mine. That is with a VFR panel
>with
>> a few extra goodies, lights, strobes, autopilot, GPS/Comm, inexpensive
>> interior, Aero Sport Power engine (that was $13K). Many standard
builders
>> have done it for $30-$35, but that is VERY basic, with a part run engine,
>> etc.
>>
>> My website has detailed information regarding the construction process of
>> the quickbuild, while Sam Buchanan has a website with detailed
information
>> about the standard kit.
>>
>> Paul Besing
>> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>> http://members.home.net/rv8er
>> Finish Kit
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: J. Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 3:59 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Quickbuild or regular
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting
ready
>> to
>> >buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
>> >quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to
>start
>> >an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB,
>> but
>> >$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost
>of
>> >the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some
>> opinions
>> >from experienced builders, especially from those that are not
>mechanically
>> >inclined.
>> >Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR
>cross
>> >country aircraft with 180hp engine.
>> >If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
>> >airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out
>> and
>> >look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building
process.
>I
>> >have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some
>> trouble
>> >just figuring everything out.
>> >Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a
>> long
>> >time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't
>> want
>> >to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and
>> realize
>> >that I can't hack it.
>> >Jim Arnold
>> >j_arnold(at)swbell.net
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV Gauges |
In a message dated 11/20/99 12:35:18 AM GMT Standard Time, willig10(at)yahoo.com
writes:
<<
I ordered and received my fuel gauges within 1 month
they look great. cant wait to install them
Glenn 8a wings >>
To all of you waiting on Van's gauges, you might want to call and check on
your order. I called this morning and they couldn't find my order. After
digging around they finally found it. The only thing they had to ship me was
the voltmeter, ammeter shunt and the oil pressure transducer. They told me
that some folks had been waiting since March for gauges. I am about ready to
pop for the Vision Microsystem.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB Canopy finished ready for systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | alternator bracket |
Does anyone have a source for alternator brackets ? I know Vans carries a
complete kit but my RV6-A-QB will have a full Panel and i want a 60 AMP
alternator with adjustable voltage regulator. My engine is a O-360-A1A (180
hp)
Thanks Tom N362ct
reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Splices vs Doublestaking |
To those of you that can remember the comments made by one person about using
a wire to feed more than one piece of equiptment with data, here is my take
on the use of two wires doublestaked(sharing the same pin, socket, or lug).
Doublestaking is fine, as long as you do not have to nearly double the amount
of wire you are using, but if there is a bit of distance involved, there is
nothing wrong with the use of a moisture proof splice as an electrical
tie-point, as long as you know the rules involved
in making the connections. I plan on using the moisture proof splice for
these applications in an attempt to make my craft as light as possible.
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - |
wrong size ...
In a message dated 11/19/99 4:47:52 PM Central Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< use a tubing cutter and make them a little over-long. Then I use a file
and carefully resize and square them off. >>
......have found that chucking the spacer into electric drill and turning
very slowly while holding the file to the spacer helps get it square and
nicely finished.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
J. Arnold wrote:
>
> I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready to
> buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
> quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to start
> an RV6 from scratch.
Building from the kit or going the QB method is still a major commitment for a
first time builder. I really enjoyed the building process with my slow-build
kit. As each part was finished it slowly began to take shape into what it is
today; ready for the airport. The most frustrating part for me was fitting the
canopy frame on my 6A slider. Nothing is hard to do, some things take longer
to figure out, and I figure if old Joe could build one, so can I. The extra
money for the QB is most likely money well spent. The workmanship is
spectacular. You still have to build the pre-punched empenage and I would
encourage you to get one ASAP and start building You will either like the
building process or not and at that point will know whether or not to order a
QB or SB kit.
> It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB, but
> $8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost of
> the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some opinions
> from experienced builders, especially from those that are not mechanically
> inclined.
> Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross
> country aircraft with 180hp engine.
My 6a (slow build) which has an O-360-A1A, Sensenich 72FM prop and is day/night
VFR. Full gyros, Navaid, KT-76A and Icom comm radio will push the 45K mark
without paint. This does not include the price for tools.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
> If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
> airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out and
> look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process. I
> have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some trouble
> just figuring everything out.
> Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a long
> time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't want
> to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and realize
> that I can't hack it.
> Jim Arnold
> j_arnold(at)swbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Group Buy still available. |
How well can you read the led version. Went to the LRI website but did
not find info on the LED version (yet)
Gert
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> The LRI Group Buy with 5% going to the RV-List fund raiser is still
> available. We have 5 people participating so far. Here's the deal:
>
> The usual group buy offer is $670 for the analog LRI unit and $72 for
> heater and $20 for shipping which reflects a savings of $123 or 14% over
> the usual prices and shipping. Of course as usual the heater would be
> optional. If you want the new gauge that was posted on Paul Besing's
> webpage at:
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
>
> The cost would be $750 plus the optional heater and shipping described
> above. Again this reflects a $123 dollar savings for the whole package.
>
> Now the part about the list contribution Jim would like to make. He will
> give 5% of total LRI sales to Matt during this group buy. If we buy 5 or 10
> LRI's during this month it can add up to a nice donation. The RV-List is
> the only place you can get a discount on the LRI!
>
> If you are interested in participating, please contact me off list at >>
> prober(at)iwaynet.net <<.
>
> Thanks.......................AL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
I have always heard stories about how friendly and helpful RV builders are
to new people. If the responses I have recieved reference my question about
getting a QB kit or Slow build kit is any
indication...then I am truly impressed. I have recieved many replies from
current builders. I will prob
go with the QB kit within the next year or so. Now I will look for someone
close who is building one
and offer him some free help.....sorry still think some experience will do
me some good and will
build my confidence before I pluck down the dough for the kit.
Ok, now does anyone have a way to break it to the wife???
Jim Arnold
j_arnold(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
>
>What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
>ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but
>end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Henney
>Parker, Colorado
>RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
>
It just do happens that we throw away almost daily aluminum spacers
wtih a 3/16" ID and about 5/16" OD. They are part of a very common
obselete meter that our utility uses.
They're about 3/8" to 1/2" long.
As far as how to cut them, if you have access to a lathe your problem
is solved.
If anyone wants some of these spacers let me know and I'll figure out
how much to charge for shipping. No charge for them.
I'll probably just put them in a small shipping envelope so shouldn't
be more than a buck for as many as you need. You gotta shorten them
yourselves unless you can use them as them come.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
J this is Glenn again and I forgot to say that a great
start is to buy beg borrow or steal the George orndorf
tapes they willl help you out tremendously once again
welcome aboard
Glenn Williams 8a wings
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> J. Arnold wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I have a question for all of you experienced
> builders. I am getting ready to
> > buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the
> $8k extra to get the
> > quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not
> have the knowhow to start
> > an RV6 from scratch.
>
> Building from the kit or going the QB method is
> still a major commitment for a
> first time builder. I really enjoyed the building
> process with my slow-build
> kit. As each part was finished it slowly began to
> take shape into what it is
> today; ready for the airport. The most frustrating
> part for me was fitting the
> canopy frame on my 6A slider. Nothing is hard to
> do, some things take longer
> to figure out, and I figure if old Joe could build
> one, so can I. The extra
> money for the QB is most likely money well spent.
> The workmanship is
> spectacular. You still have to build the
> pre-punched empenage and I would
> encourage you to get one ASAP and start building
> You will either like the
> building process or not and at that point will know
> whether or not to order a
> QB or SB kit.
>
> > It sure would save me a lot of time getting the
> QB, but
> > $8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure
> would bring the cost of
> > the project down if I went with the basic option.
> I would like some opinions
> > from experienced builders, especially from those
> that are not mechanically
> > inclined.
> > Also I would like some real figures on costs. I
> just want a basic VFR cross
> > country aircraft with 180hp engine.
>
> My 6a (slow build) which has an O-360-A1A, Sensenich
> 72FM prop and is day/night
> VFR. Full gyros, Navaid, KT-76A and Icom comm radio
> will push the 45K mark
> without paint. This does not include the price for
> tools.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A
>
> > If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth
> area(especially at Spinks
> > airport) I would like to hear from you and also
> if possible to come out and
> > look at your plane. I want to pick your brain
> about the building process. I
> > have already bought the manual and (hanging head
> low) am having some trouble
> > just figuring everything out.
> > Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been
> a dream of mine for a long
> > time. My dad died wishing that he could have built
> a BD-5. I just don't want
> > to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down
> sooo much money and realize
> > that I can't hack it.
> > Jim Arnold
> > j_arnold(at)swbell.net
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug's Mail" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Listers,
NOW HEAR THIS!!!!!
If you haven't contributed to the list, I hope you try to turn back when
your engine quits after take off.
If you haven't contributed to the list, I hope you believe the blowhards
who tell you that you're a weenie if you don't fly a Tailwheel.
If you haven't contributed to the list, I hope you put too many toys in
your airplane.
If you haven't contributed to the list, I hope you try a "split-S" from
cruise. (not really)
If you haven't contributed to the list, I hope you put some additive that
is supposed to be on the bottom of a frying pan in your engine oil.
Shall I go on?????? This is not that I have anything valuable to say, it is
that there are many very valuable discussions here. Whether you agree with
my "Opinions" or not.
It is my understanding that the fund-raising is progressing slowly this
year. This really torques me off. People feel free to read and post but
not to contribute?? What gives? Is it because you are afraid to make a
contribution on the net, why are you building or flying a homemade
airplane?????? Even then put it in the mail. No one has to give alot, but
everyone needs to give something. So get off your dead a-- and click below
or send a check! We are not talking about a Garmin 430 here, more like a
bag of clecos. Think about it????
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
Here is how!
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | OKAY LET'S REVIEW |
So It's November 19, 1999. That's 11/19/99. All odd digits. There won't
be another day with all odd digits until January 1, 3111. Thats 1/1/3111.
I don't know about you but I can't hardly wait. (Who the heck thinks these
things up?)
Now tell me you don't get A LOT of really good information from the
RV-List. I have seen so many experts on this list I still have a hard time
believing I am plugged into such a valuable resource. You have Bob Nuckolls
if you have an electrical question. Doug Rozendaal for general flying
questions or an occasional reality check. David Faile who was Flight
Instructor of the Year. Cy Galley, nearly a direct line to EAA
headquarters. Mike Robertson....Das Fed (Nuff Said!). Brian Lloyed who
seems to have a good answer for nearly everything flying or electrical or
digital. And countless numbers of people who have "been there, done that".
We have Aeronautical Engineers, Fastener Experts, Chemical Experts,
Mechanical Engineers, and many excellent A & P's and IA's. I mean this is
really some resource.
You can find deals on tools, engines, videos, plans, kits, and after market
parts on this List. You can set up meetings, fly-ins, breakfasts, lunches,
and rides to all of them on the RV-List. You can also make your
arrangements for getting together at Oshkosh (Airwhat?) or any other major
Fly-In like MERFI, SWERFI, Sun and Fun, Copperstate, Arlington or where
ever your wanting to go.
You can find controversy, misinformation, hints, tricks, advice, gotchas,
formulas, instructions and plans clarifications on this List. It's the
place to come for consolation, encouragement, entertainment, and general
comraderie centered around flying and and more specifically arounf RV's.
So how about it? Worth anything to you? I get more out of it than I do the
daily newspaper and I pay more for that! (Out of habit I guess.) Join the
many who have already done there duty (and your duty too if you don't
contribute) and made a contribution. Yes it is a duty because thats just
the kind of people we are here on this list. We carry our own weight, build
our own planes and generally help each other out whenever the need arrises
and we have the ability and means to do so. We are people of character.
People of purpose. And your purpose right now is to make a contribution to
keep this List operating and taking some of the burden off of Matt Dralle,
out List Administrator. That's your assignment so get to it right now!
AL
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Tip Rib Mounting |
I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of my
rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I should
have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually
countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side on
the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with JB
Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes in
the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the aileron
mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange hole
mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me this
is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the strength
in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard rib
on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess?
Marty Emrath RV6 right wing ready to rivet this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vans RV Gauges from Chief? |
I noticed that the same guages minus the airplane logo are in the new Chief
Aircraft catalog. I dont know if they have them yet.
Rob Hickman
N401RH (15.8 Hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
In a message dated 11/19/99 12:47:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< I'm thinking about installing a B&C gear driven alternator in my RV-6A.
The
AS&S catalog gives a brief description. It says that it is an 8 amp unit.
Limited feedback from the List indicates that it is reliable. My
plane-to-be will be day, VFR with a radio, turn & bank indicator,
micro-encoder and transponder. I would use this as my only alternator. I
have two questions. Am I crazy, or is this workable? Can I get information
about the B&C alternator on the Internet? >>
IMO 8 amps is barely enough for a bop around the patch plane with an
armstrong starter. How long will it take at idle for this alternator to
restore the battery juice that the electric starter just consumed in kicking
the engine over? The minute you put any transmitter or lights on your bird
you're SOL. I think that a 20 or 35A job is the smallest that I would put on
an O-320/360 in a real "working" plane.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB or Slow Bild |
"J. Arnold" wrote:
>
>
> I have always heard stories about how friendly and helpful RV builders are
> to new people. If the responses I have recieved reference my question about
> getting a QB kit or Slow build kit is any
> indication...then I am truly impressed. I have recieved many replies from
> current builders. I will prob
> go with the QB kit within the next year or so. Now I will look for someone
> close who is building one
> and offer him some free help.....sorry still think some experience will do
> me some good and will
> build my confidence before I pluck down the dough for the kit.
> Ok, now does anyone have a way to break it to the wife???
YES! Get her a ride in an RV!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild or regular |
Hey Jim,
I started my RV-6 when I was unemployed and figured that my time was certainly
more plentiful than my money. I have met many others at the airshows at
Arlington and at Vans homecoming that were in similar boats. One guy really
impressed me. He was from Argyle, TX and worked at DFW. We talked at length at
Van's homecoming several years ago while he polished his beautiful RV-6 with a
diaper. He said that he would work on the tail while he saved up for his
wings. Then while he worked on his wings, he would save for his fuselage.
Well, I'm taking a similar route. And while I have a very nice job and could
probably talk Mama Bear outta the cash for a QB, I have found myself rather
enjoying the nuts and bolts. True, I have several thousand rivets left to
drive, but it's the road, not the journey that I'm enjoying right now. Before
I
started, a friend who was building an RV-4 told me that you do this to build and
not to fly. He's right in some respects, but right now he's sure enjoying the
flying! I guess what I'm trying to say is that this is certainly a do-able
project. Van has made it much more so with the pre-punched kits and the
unbelievable way the wing spars arrive at your door. You need to decide which
you would rather do. Rick Jory's QB is a thing of beauty, and he will certainly
be in the air much ahead of me, but I really don't mind. I'm finding the time
out in the garage to be worth the money I would have spent.
Just my $.02
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
RV-6, Wings
J. Arnold wrote:
> > >
> > >I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready
> > to
> > >buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the
> > >quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to
> start
> > >an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB,
> > but
> > >$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost
> of
> > >the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some
> > opinions
> > >from experienced builders, especially from those that are not
> mechanically
> > >inclined.
> > >Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR
> cross
> > >country aircraft with 180hp engine.
> > >If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks
> > >airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out
> > and
> > >look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process.
> I
> > >have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some
> > trouble
> > >just figuring everything out.
> > >Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a
> > long
> > >time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't
> > want
> > >to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and
> > realize
> > >that I can't hack it.
> > >Jim Arnold
> > >j_arnold(at)swbell.net
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
Sounds like that for this you might use your crow foot wrench. But making
tools is fun and often the only way. When I had my MG dealership, we made
up a special tool that turned a four hour job into a 30 minute one. MG
made the tool in quantity and sold them to all dealers.
hal
>
>Listers -
>
>Made a mistake in my note to Glen on bending wrenches for that hard to
>reach nut. Its an open end wrench I meant (and bent) - not a box end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | LRI Group Buy still available. |
Gert,
It is my understanding that the LED version can be read very clearly in all
conditions, bright sunlight to darkness. Like any LED instrument however
there is something going on with any input that feeds an LED gauge
information between each of the LED's. IN MY PERSONAL OPINION I think the
analog gauge tells you more than ANY LED gauge. In most cases like engine
parameters and flaps this isn't important.Incremental changes are fine. I
personally think that with an AOA indicator you can get more information
from an analog (needle) gauge than an LED because of the dynamic source of
the input. I always think of it this way. Say your flying low and you hit
wind shear. Your needle drops out into the red and pops back into the green
and it's almost intuitive what your seeing, wind shear! Now if you have any
LED gauge you see your little LEDs going through all the greens, yellows,
and then into the red and then back through the display. The same thing the
needle just did with the analog but it's in colored lights. However with
the LEDs my first thought is "electrical!". Then I sort it out in a
fraction of a second and say "wind shear!" It's just the way my mind works.
Maybe you think of it differently but I have the analog and it will be
there if my ASI or electrical system take a hike on me. I guess the short
answer is, you can read the LED's fine in any condition and it comes down
to a personal preference. Let the games begin. AL
>
>How well can you read the led version. Went to the LRI website but did
>not find info on the LED version (yet)
>
>Gert
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> The LRI Group Buy with 5% going to the RV-List fund raiser is still
>> available. We have 5 people participating so far. Here's the deal:
>>
>> The usual group buy offer is $670 for the analog LRI unit and $72 for
>> heater and $20 for shipping which reflects a savings of $123 or 14% over
>> the usual prices and shipping. Of course as usual the heater would be
>> optional. If you want the new gauge that was posted on Paul Besing's
>> webpage at:
>>
>> http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
>>
>> The cost would be $750 plus the optional heater and shipping described
>> above. Again this reflects a $123 dollar savings for the whole package.
>>
>> Now the part about the list contribution Jim would like to make. He will
>> give 5% of total LRI sales to Matt during this group buy. If we buy 5 or 10
>> LRI's during this month it can add up to a nice donation. The RV-List is
>> the only place you can get a discount on the LRI!
>>
>> If you are interested in participating, please contact me off list at >>
>> prober(at)iwaynet.net <<.
>>
>> Thanks.......................AL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>--
>
>Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
>any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vac pump install |
Hal, a crows foot might be to thick and you probably won't be able to get a
ratchet or extension on it. I had the same problem with my Bonanza I just
get a couple of cheap end wrenches and heated and bent to fit.
Cash
In a message dated 11/20/99 4:35:09 AM GMT Standard Time,
kempthorne(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Sounds like that for this you might use your crow foot wrench. But making
tools is fun and often the only way. When I had my MG dealership, we made
up a special tool that turned a four hour job into a 30 minute one. MG
made the tool in quantity and sold them to all dealers.
hal >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: digital tach and fixed pitch prop |
In my homegrown engine monitor I have 5 RPM resolution, but with 1 second
updates there is no problem with flicker. It's on an LCD display.
Finn
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> i am thinking of purchasing the technology kitchen engine power monitor
> (EPM). this is the one that will display percent power along with manifold
> pressure and rpm on the main display. (it has other pages that will display
> OAT, PA, DA, flight time, and tach time.)
>
> anyway, the tach will display to the nearest 1 RPM. i think most other
> digital tachs (EI or JPI) round off to the nearest 10 rpm. since i am
> planning on using a fixed pitch prop, i am concerned that the rpm will be
> fluctuating enough to make the display change constantly. the instrument
> does have filters, but i am talking about real rpm changes, not just noise
> in the sensors. the instrument will be placed in a position where it would
> be very distracting to be flickering away.
>
> anyone have any experience with a digital tach and a fixed pitch prop? any
> recommendations?
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator bracket |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Does anyone have a source for alternator brackets ? I know Vans
> carries a
> complete kit but my RV6-A-QB will have a full Panel and i want a 60
> AMP
> alternator with adjustable voltage regulator. My engine is a
> O-360-A1A (180
> hp)
>
Call the office at Van's.
I think you could buy just the brackets without the alternator.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Here's one for ya.
I've got a RV-6A about ready to fly. In fact, I'm taking it to the airport
this morning to get it ready for the W&B and inspection. There is one
little problem that keeps bugging me about my tip up. How in the world
does one gracefully get in and out of the thing? Other than the panel,
what does one grab onto to pull oneself up and out? The panel is very
handy; but, I'm not sure it's up to the task. Since you guys have been
flying the prototype for a very long time, how do you do it?
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Serial 22220)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB or Slow Bild |
Jim,
Make her think it is her idea. Or try dropping hints for Xmas. Other than that
you're on you're own.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Fri, 19 Nov 1999 10:58:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, "J. Arnold"
writes:
>
> I have always heard stories about how friendly and helpful RV builders are
> to new people. If the responses I have recieved reference my question about
> getting a QB kit or Slow build kit is any
> indication...then I am truly impressed. I have recieved many replies from
> current builders. I will prob
> go with the QB kit within the next year or so. Now I will look for someone
> close who is building one
> and offer him some free help.....sorry still think some experience will do
> me some good and will
> build my confidence before I pluck down the dough for the kit.
> Ok, now does anyone have a way to break it to the wife???
>
> Jim Arnold
> j_arnold(at)swbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
Mike,
I put the spacer into my drill press chuck, clamped a wood chisel to the
base plate with the cutting edge horizontal, and with the drill turning
slowly lowered the spacer onto the chisel. Worked like a charm.
Doug Gray
>
>
> What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
> ends?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Quickbuild or regular |
If you are building the plane to fly it, then without question buy the
quick-build. If you are building because you enjoy building things, then by
all means go with the regular kit. It took me about four years to get to
the point where I had what looks like a quick-build in my shop.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----I have a question for all of you
experienced builders. I am getting ready to
buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra
to get the
quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the
knowhow to start
an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time
getting the QB, but
$8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would
bring the cost of
the project down if I went with the basic option. I would
like some opinions
from experienced builders, especially from those that are
not mechanically
inclined.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
>IMO 8 amps is barely enough for a bop around the patch plane with an
>armstrong starter. How long will it take at idle for this alternator to
>restore the battery juice that the electric starter just consumed in kicking
>the engine over? The minute you put any transmitter or lights on your bird
>you're SOL. I think that a 20 or 35A job is the smallest that I would put
on
>an O-320/360 in a real "working" plane.
Over the years, the SD-8 has evolved into a 9-10 amp machine.
There are dozens of aerobatic airplanes that travel cross-country
day/vfr from airshow to airshow. Nav lights are the biggest single
energy consumer in an airplane . . . 6 amps continuous draw for
duration of flight. If you don't run nav lights, the battery
contactor (0.9 amps) becomes the biggest continuous draw. A
day/vfr load of several radios and a turn coordinator leaves
enough snort to run a strobe light.
The SD-8 will not charge a battery quickly . . . but if your
engine starts in a few blades, the energy required to start
an engine is quite nominal . . . it will take the SD-8 longer
to replace it than a bigger alternator but if you're going
off on a cross-country or a flight of at least an hour, it
shouldn't be an issue. Again, I call on the experience of a
whole bunch of airshow airplanes, not to mention the hundreds
of Long and Vari-Ez airplanes that have flown the SD-8 for
over 15 years.
If you need/want to save weight and dollars and can tolerate
the daytime only limitations. The SD-8 is a demonstrable
solution to the engine driven power source.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Altimeter/encoder |
Can anyone tell me what is required at certification on the testing of
altimeter and encoder? I have a used altimeter and RMI encoder. My FAA
inspection is next Tuesday. A very thorough EAA tech inspected my airplane
the other night. He thought I had to have in tested by a licensed
instrument shop and signed off before certification.
I was intending to take the airplane up to an airport that has this
available after I had done some flight testing on it.
Any advise on this?
Thanks!
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 N641DH
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong |
size bolt spec'd?
Wouldn't you have to push the chisel into the spacer versus lowering the
drill chuck into the chisel. Sort of a home made lathe, the part turns but
the tool moves?
Marty in Brentwood, RV6 wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A -
wrong size bolt spec'd?
>
> Mike,
> I put the spacer into my drill press chuck, clamped a wood chisel to the
> base plate with the cutting edge horizontal, and with the drill turning
> slowly lowered the spacer onto the chisel. Worked like a charm.
> Doug Gray
> >
> >
> > What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square
> > ends?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Ask your EAA Flight Advisor!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Date: Saturday, November 20, 1999 3:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Support
>
>Here's one for ya.
>
>I've got a RV-6A about ready to fly. In fact, I'm taking it to the airport
>this morning to get it ready for the W&B and inspection. There is one
>little problem that keeps bugging me about my tip up. How in the world
>does one gracefully get in and out of the thing? Other than the panel,
>what does one grab onto to pull oneself up and out? The panel is very
>handy; but, I'm not sure it's up to the task. Since you guys have been
>flying the prototype for a very long time, how do you do it?
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Serial 22220)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Preservative for Completed Subassemblies |
I have an 8AQB which I'm not getting the time I had hoped for to work
on. At the present rate it could be a 4 year project. I would like to
put some preservative on the wings and fuse but am leery of something
that could bleed out of the rivets and cause big problems with the
painting process. Certainly I don't want to use anything with silicones.
Any suggestions on something known to work would really be appreciated.
Thanks, Esten Spears RV8AQB Starting Empanage, Leeward Air Ranch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
A while ago several of you guys recommended, based on first-hand experience,
where to stay during Oshkosh...in the homes of local residents at OSH. Some
of you even named names. I can't find these recommendations in archives. I
know it's a little early for next year, but I'd like to beat the rush. Can
anyone provide the name and number of a couple of these generous people?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Here's one for ya.
>
>I've got a RV-6A about ready to fly. In fact, I'm taking it to the airport
>this morning to get it ready for the W&B and inspection. There is one
>little problem that keeps bugging me about my tip up. How in the world
>does one gracefully get in and out of the thing?
Jim,
I push myself up using my hands on the side rails. I weigh 195 and pop out
real easy.
I found it was a little hard to get up from the bare seat pans but the added
height of cushions makes it easy.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP "Trouble"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james small" <james(at)jsmall.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/18/99 |
Has anyone fitted a Navaid turn coordinator / wingleveller + Porcine GPS
smart coupler to an RV6?, can you recommend this setup?, are there any plans
or details regarding the fitting of the servo motor?
I am just finishing an RV (just wants painting) and may pick one up at
Sun&Fun if this is considered a worthwhile addition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Preservative for Completed Subassemblies |
Esten,
My QB was all primed except for some of the alclad stuff which does not
need to be primed ever. The interior tail cone of my 1965 Debonair was not
primed and is still shiny new.
However, if you live in the Florida Keys....
hal
>I have an 8AQB which I'm not getting the time I had hoped for to work
>on. At the present rate it could be a 4 year project. I would like to
>put some preservative on the wings and fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A |
- wrong size bolt spec'd?
Man - - - - Talk about the many ways to skin a cat.
Cecil
writes:
>
> A tubing cutter should be good enough to keep the spacer
>square. As
>for length, I'd make the space a little long and use the sliding "T"
>square
>on a disc sander to grind it down to the right length. Depending on
>the
>accuracy needed, you might want to use vernier calipers to measure
>overall
>length and just grind a little at a time until the desired length is
>reached......or.....do what I do and find a small jewlers lathe at a
>garage
>for $165 and use it.
>
> Mike
> http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log
>
>
> From: Mike Henney@mikeh on 11/19/99 03:02 PM
> To: rv-list(at)rv-list@matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron
>bellcrank RV6A - wrong size bolt spec'd?
>
>
> What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and
>with
>square
> ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch
>bright
>wheel, but
> end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short
>or not
>square.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Henney
> Parker, Colorado
> RV-6A, Fuel tanks done!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/encoder |
Don't know about certification sign off, Denny, but you do need to have a
log book entry about pitot static test before flight don't you??
hal
>
>Can anyone tell me what is required at certification on the testing of
>altimeter and encoder? I have a used altimeter and RMI encoder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: www.aeroelectric.com |
>Is anybody else having trouble getting into Aeroelectric.com? Bob says it's
>fixed, but I still can't get in. Even dumped my caches.
>Darrel
>
As I write these words, I'm waiting for an e-mail from
a NEW service provider that will give me the IP address
to begin transfering our site to another server. The
fellow I spoke with during the signup process says our
problem is not uncommon in the industry when domains
are transfered wholesale from one machine to another.
It seems that we still exist on both machines. Depending
on which way the wind is blowing and/or other forces
unknown to me, I can FTP into the real site or the old
one. Some folks in the field are experiencing similar
variability with browser access to the site.
Given the extremely poor engineering services I've been
offered over the past three weeks, I'll be officially
pulling the plug on DTC.net (old) and bewell.net (new)
as soon as Internic can broadcast the change to the
internet community. The whole process should be done
within the next three to four days although it could
happen as early as Monday. I'll post a general note
when the new site begins to recognize aeroelectric.com
The new site will offer secure business transactions,
web site searches, and a number of other nifty features
that will help us expand our level of services to the
amateur built aviation community. My thanks to those
who have been keeping me up to date on site access and
for your patience. The light at the end of the tunnel
is NOT an oncoming train . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/encoder |
In a message dated 11/20/99 10:45:56, kempthorne(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Don't know about certification sign off, Denny, but you do need to have a
log book entry about pitot static test before flight don't you??
hal
>
>Can anyone tell me what is required at certification on the testing of
>altimeter and encoder? I have a used altimeter and RMI encoder.
>>
Mine was checked before the FAA sign off but he didn't check it. I would
guess you could probably fly it in areas not requiring mode C before the
check, or if need be get a waiver to fly in to such area to get the cert of
the system.
D Walsh
November 16, 1999 - November 20, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hi