RV-Archive.digest.vol-hj

November 20, 1999 - November 26, 1999



________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
Keith wrote: >I started my RV-6 when I was unemployed and figured that my time was certainly >more plentiful than my money. We have builders who have lots of money to devote to their RV and others who don't. Between jobs is a good time to be building. Retired too. And those who still have to support other habits, planes, cars etc. >Van has made it much more so with the pre-punched kits I've heard that the difference is actually slight with the pre-punched kits. I know that even with the QB, I spent a lot of time laying out. There are other places where the QB wastes mountains of time. I have had a hell of a time getting all the bolts into the landing gear where it meets the spar (RV6A-QB). In several places I have to torque by turning the bolt rather than the nut - not good I say. So, with a standard RV6a kit, I would mount the landing gear internal parts before skinning so I could do it from the bottom. I went for the QB for one reason mainly - that is that I though I could finish it and I didn't think I'd have the patience for the regular kit. I was surprised that I enjoyed the sheet metal work as much as I did. I guess it is a dying art. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a at SCK - Tedious details Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVBryan(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: RV4 Fuse or Wing parts
Listers, I am new to this list and am building an RV4. I have the tail section complete and have attained a few parts (leading edge ribs, not including the tank) for the wings. As I am in college, which takes much of my funds, I am looking for extra parts for the wings or fuse that ya'll might have that can help me complete this beautiful plane. Please email me off-list with anything that might help. Much appreciated. Bryan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Question
>> An alternator puts out dirty current, which some electronics can not >> handle, but by running it through >> a battery cleans it up. So if you lost your battery, 2 alternators could >> be a whole lot of nothing. >> But with 2 batteries you have 30 hours or more of reserve if you lost >> your alternator. >> >> No two alternators! >Bob......What's your opinion on this Yeah but . . . . repeat after me, "I solomly swear that I will do my best to observe the laws of physics and conduct maintenance on my airplane to live well INSIDE the envelope of operations for the equipment installed." There is no reason for anyone to LOOSE a battery. If you flog it until it doesn't crank the engine for the 4th or 5th time, don't do periodic capacity checks or fail to replace it periodically to insure minimal levels of servicability, -AND- you suffer from the "if-it's-good-for-50K-Cessnas, it's-gotta- be-good-for-my-airplane" syndrome, then indeed, 20 alternators wouldn't do you any good. Let's reveiw the facts and physics: (1) Most alternators do indeed need SOME form of battery on line not so much for cleaning up "dirty current" as for stabilization of the alternator/regulator's voltage regulatrion servo-loop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
If you can afford it, go for it. I couldn't, so I bought the -8 kit. I have no building experience other than Radio Control aircraft scratch buuilding. Concept is the same but working with metal is totally new to me. I was nervous at first, but feel right at home now. Thats why Van's likes you to start on the empennage section, so you can get your feet wet before moving on to the more critical sections. Tech support is great, and between the RVlist and builders web sites you have a wealth of knowledge to support you as well. Good luck on your project.. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Wings #80972 Bonnyville, Ab Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm J. Arnold wrote: > > I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready to > buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the > quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to start > an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB, but > $8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost of > the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some opinions > from experienced builders, especially from those that are not mechanically > inclined. > Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross > country aircraft with 180hp engine. > If there are any builders in the Ft. Worth area(especially at Spinks > airport) I would like to hear from you and also if possible to come out and > look at your plane. I want to pick your brain about the building process. I > have already bought the manual and (hanging head low) am having some trouble > just figuring everything out. > Sorry this is such a long post, but this has been a dream of mine for a long > time. My dad died wishing that he could have built a BD-5. I just don't want > to wait as long. I just don't want to pluck down sooo much money and realize > that I can't hack it. > Jim Arnold > j_arnold(at)swbell.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net>
Subject: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Although I find volumes of information on fitting the canopy, I have found very little on proper orientation of the canopy frame. Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned with the side of the plane? I have a point about 6 inches back from the front that overhangs the side of the plane anywhere for 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The plans show it flush. Also the rear portion of the canopy frame is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inched higher than the rear skin. I ASSume this is so the dreaded rear skirt will angle/pull down to the rear turtledeck. I can find no detail for this view on the plans. I have several pictures of completed planes and this look like it is correct. Don Mack RV-6A Canopy (hard to guess that one) donmack(at)flash.net http://www.flash.net/~donmack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild
Date: Nov 20, 1999
> > >I am planning a 5 inch glaresheid above the panel in my RV6A. > I would personally question the frangability ("crumple and fold") of hobby > styrene sheet. It has pretty good strength in compression! O.K., how about if it was made out of thin cardboard? It will after all have some material covering it for the finished look. Regards, Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Any one can build the standard kit. Take things one step at a time. Any questions, phone the factory or ask this list. Save the quickbuild money if you have the time to build. You will experience even more of the personal satisfaction once you start having completed structures lying around. It feels good. Remember to always ask questions. Ignorance is not very forgiving in this hobby. Welcome to the family, Norman > I have a question for all of you experienced builders. I am getting ready to > buy an RV6 and was wondering if it was worth the $8k extra to get the > quickbuild option. I am worried that I might not have the knowhow to start > an RV6 from scratch. It sure would save me a lot of time getting the QB, but > $8k is $8k and time really isn't a factor. It sure would bring the cost of > the project down if I went with the basic option. I would like some opinions > from experienced builders, especially from those that are not mechanically > inclined. > Also I would like some real figures on costs. I just want a basic VFR cross > country aircraft with 180hp engine. It the engine is new from Vans and the prop is fixed pitch $45,000-50,000 inc tools. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
JIM, I second Rick's opinion on the QB kits, I just picked up my RV-8 wings and fuselage at Van's on Tuesday and can tell the parts are nicely finished. From what you learned on the tail kit, reviting, dimpling, deburring and most of all making heads and tails out of the construction manual you CAN build the 6or 8 and have a safe and nicely finished sport plane in a reasonably short period of time. Lets say $8000 is a lot of money, what do you make an hour? If it is more than $8.00 then all you are doing is trading your money for their skill. That is assuming that it takes 1000 hours off the build time, probably it is more like 1500 hrs and then it cost to your rapidly decreases. Think about resale value of a QB airplane when done versus a scratched built plane--are your skills up to it, do you have the tools and jigs to build one. These factors will go a long way in helping you decide which route to go. I am in my fifties and did not want to wait 3 to 5 years to be in the air. For me the decision to buy the quick build was obvious. What ever you decide remember it still takes a while to put the parts together and then there are all those little items that must be added to the cost before YOUR plane can fly. We will all look for your decision to be posted on the RV List. Let us know. Bill Bruton Tacoma, Wa RV-8QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
Date: Nov 20, 1999
> I'd give a big YES on that one. You'll save hundreds of dollars on primer, > proseal, specialized tools (fuel tank dimple dies, for example), and parts to > replace the ones you screw up. This'll bring the $8k difference down some. > Also, you can avoid the tedium of drilling and dimpling holes for 1,000's of > rivets, driving those rivets, etc. BTW, I have the standard kit. This strikes me as very true. The quickbuild kit apears to cost $8k more than the standard kit but it must actually be much less. There are numerous costs to building a standard kit that have already been done on the quickbuild. Norman Hunger RV6A Slow Build ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
There are 4 important resources to help us through the canopy construction. Van's instructions Jim Cone's notes in the Tri-State newsletter, 4/95, 10/96 and 1/97 Frank Justice's instructions Your Brain After thoroughly reading (and completely understanding) the first 3, engage the 4th. This worked very well for me. I didn't follow any of the 3 published resources completely. All 3 were very useful though. Two bits of advice: 1. spend lots of time fitting the metal tubing to your longerons to get it as perfect as possible and it will minimize the problems down the road. 2. on the rear of the slider, use the 4 inch straight edge mentioned in the Justice instructions to set height and alignment. My canopy didn't quite fit right here so I beveled the plexi by sanding. I'm happy with the results. Good Luck Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Support
Date: Nov 20, 1999
> >Here's one for ya. > >I've got a RV-6A about ready to fly. In fact, I'm taking it to the airport >this morning to get it ready for the W&B and inspection. There is one >little problem that keeps bugging me about my tip up. How in the world >does one gracefully get in and out of the thing? Other than the panel, >what does one grab onto to pull oneself up and out? The panel is very >handy; but, I'm not sure it's up to the task. Since you guys have been >flying the prototype for a very long time, how do you do it? > >Jim Sears in KY >RV-6A N198JS (Serial 22220) > I would put my hands on the left rail and the back of the right seat and 'push' myself up to the point where I could step on the seat. Entry was the reverse. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA http://members.home.net/ammeterj/ 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Fax.
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Matt, Thank you for the offer but I will be fine with the drawings I have. How much time do you have in your tail? Will be sending my donation in about a week. Keep up the good work. Thank you **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 9:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fax. > > > Hey Bryan! > > Okay, I'm a dork. I'm out here in the shop now and I'm thinking, "I > just can't believe that I lost that sheet..." But alas, I still can't > find it. Then, the Sk-5 of the right elevator gets knocked of the > work bench at one point... As it falls to the floor I notice that > this particular Sketch appears to be DOUBLE SIDED! Oh Crap, guess > what's on the back side? Yup, Sketch 6 - left elevator with trim > tab cutout. Should have known that Van's wouldn't be wasting paper > like that! Anyway, comparing the two drawings - the one you FAX'd > me and my old one from 1988 - the tab cut dimensions seem a lot more > clear in 1988. If you'd like, I'd be happy to forward a copy of > my drawing back to you. > > In any case, thank you for your help! > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > RV-4 #1763 > > > >-------------- > > > >Hi Bryan! > > > >Hey thanks for the FAX. I received it this morning. My manual is circa > >1988 so your drawing looked different than what I remembered mine > >looking like. I think that I was had was just a print of the dimensions > >for the trimtab itself. On the one you FAXed me, I think I can guess > >what it should be, but still it seems like there should be a print that > >calls out the actual numbers. Do you have anything like that?? > > > >Thanks for the help, Bryan! > > > >Matt > > > > > >>-------------- > >> > >>Matt, > >>Did you get my fax of the trim tab cut out this morning and was it the right > >>page you were looking for? > >> > >>**** Bryan E. Files **** > >>Ever Fly Maintenance > >>Palmer, Alaska > >>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor > >>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net > >>-------------- > >-------------- > > > -- > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 20, 1999
"Re: RV-List: Fax." (Nov 20, 11:46am)
Subject: Re: Fax.
> >Matt, >Thank you for the offer but I will be fine with the drawings I have. How >much time do you have in your tail? >Will be sending my donation in about a week. >Keep up the good work. >Thank you >**** Bryan E. Files **** Hi Bryan, Well, it depends on how you measure it... ;-) I build one back in 1988 when I first got the kit. Now that I'm a lot closer to finishing (and my workmanship is a lot better) I decided to build another one. I really glad I am, too, as it is really coming out a *lot* nicer. Seems like I spent about 200 hours on the first one. Probably about the same on the second one. I haven't been logging the hours on the second one. Thanks again for the sketch. Best regards, Matt !v -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
Jim, I know how you feel about trying to decide between a standard kit or a quickbuild kit. My solution was to build an RV-9A which is supposed to be easier to build than a standard -4, -6 or -8, but harder than a Quickbuild. Another thing you might consider is to order an RV-6 tail kit first and see how you like building. If you don't like building you won't have made a truly large investment in something that's not fun. On the other hand, if you successfully complete the tail kit, but still want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you about about a $2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild because they won't have to build the tail feathers for you. Mark Schrimmer Irvine, CA Starting on RV-9A tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Alternator V belt
Hi, In Van's Alternator kit they suggests a Gates 7350 Belt as a starting point to finding the correct size belt for your particular airplane. What type (not brand) of belt needs to be used here? What is the belt length of a Gates 7350. Is a 3Lxxx trade size an acceptable substitute? -Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Trying to cause a flap!
OK I'm stumped... I've got a -6 wing kit shipped back in March, trying to do those "easiest to build of the movable surfaces" flap things. The bottom skins I got have this pretty extreme curl on the top of the trailing edge flange that prevents any access for riveting that itty-bitty tab on the rear end of the short ribs. Dare I say pop rivet from the inside? Or just gouge out a big crescent out of the flange so I can use my squeezer? The plans show this flange to be fairly straight and parallel with the top skin. My flange curls down toward the bottom into almost a half circle from the flange itself. What've y'all done with this? And things were going SOOOOOO well... Thanks in advance From the PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
Bbrut55(at)aol.com wrote: > > > JIM, > > I second Rick's opinion on the QB kits, I just picked up my RV-8 wings and > fuselage at Van's on Tuesday and can tell the parts are nicely finished. From > what you learned on the tail kit, reviting, dimpling, deburring and most of > all making heads and tails out of the construction manual you CAN build the > 6or 8 and have a safe and nicely finished sport plane in a reasonably short > period of time. Lets say $8000 is a lot of money, what do you make an hour? > If it is more than $8.00 then all you are doing is trading your money for > their skill. That is assuming that it takes 1000 hours off the build time, > probably it is more like 1500 hrs and then it cost to your rapidly decreases. While I certainly think the QB is a good value, sometimes the rhetoric in favor of it gets a little over-enthusiastic! :-) It is probably unproductive to place actual numbers on the amount of hours saved by the QB option. The construction hours logged vary all over the map for all the various flavors of RV's. I built the standard RV-6 kit and logged 1000 hours to get the plane ready for the airport. Other builders have logged 3000 hours for the same task. Obviously, there is great variance in logging methods and shop skills. The 3000 hour guys think I fudged on my log time, but you can't argue with the plane being build in twenty-one calendar months. I have a friend who built the standard RV-8 kit in only two months longer than I took for my RV-6, so I suspect his building hours were similar to mine. If he spent 1200 hours building his standard RV-8, and a QB RV-8 saves 1500 hours........then............his plane should have arrived from the factory fully assembled! The point is, don't but a whole lot of weight on "hours saved". Yes, they will be substantial, but it is probably pointless to hang your hat on actual numbers. > Think about resale value of a QB airplane when done versus a scratched built > plane Whoa here! This is the first time I recall hearing that the QB's should have a higher resale value. In my semi-humble opinion, the aptitude of the individual builder and equipment attached to the plane is going to determine resale value rather than whether or not the kit was a QB. Those of us who have finished an RV realize that building the basic airframe is actual a "minor" portion of the project compared to canopy construction, painting, and installation of systems and powerplant. --are your skills up to it, do you have the tools and jigs to build one. Not a factor. It takes the same tools and skills to build either version of the kit. The jigs are a non-issue since they are easily and inexpensively built (or borrowed). > These factors will go a long way in helping you decide which route to go. I > am in my fifties and did not want to wait 3 to 5 years to be in the air. For > me the decision to buy the quick build was obvious. There are a lot of QB builders who are going to spend three years on their projects..... > What ever you decide remember it still takes a while to put the parts > together and then there are all those little items that must be added to the > cost before YOUR plane can fly. Very, very true. The RV kits represent incredible value in the amateur-built aircraft community regardless of which flavor of kit is chosen. As many have suggested, build the standard tail kit, then make the decision as to whether or not to go QB. Sam Buchanan (RV-6 standard kit, 54 hrs of grinnin') "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Temporary Articles Access . . .
Folk who have been trying to download the past several days article announcements may access them from here: http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/ Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: Re: forward gear screws? 6a
dear listers, today i was finish drilling the forward most gear attachment on the 6a. there are 2 holes which calls to be countersunk 100 degrees. how did you guys counter sink 1/4 inch holes? it looks like the fasters in these holes are phillips 1/4 inch with castle head nuts, am i missing something? also, does anyone recall the distance from the outer edge of the bottom skins to the fuselage. thanks scott tampa bottom skinning 6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Rich <houndsfour(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/18/99
HI james Yes I have a Navaid in my "6". I can recommend the system and if you install it as shown in the drawings, you should not have a problem except I to had my plane ready for paint when I installed the Navaid. It's not hard to do but work slowly and read the instructions. I think you will like the unit. Rich T. james small wrote: > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "james small" > > Has anyone fitted a Navaid turn coordinator / wingleveller + Porcine GPS > smart coupler to an RV6?, can you recommend this setup?, are there any plans > or details regarding the fitting of the servo motor? > I am just finishing an RV (just wants painting) and may pick one up at > Sun&Fun if this is considered a worthwhile addition. > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Thanks, Jim, for your response. Maybe I didn't make myself clear. The area that I goofed up is on the rear spar, the tip rib attachment point. At this point the spar, which has been countersunk on the forward face is sandwiched between the flange on the rib and the doubler plate. This is where the aileron bracket goes around the corner. The holes should have been countersunk on the doubler so that the mount has a flat surface against the rear face of the rear spar. I'm afraid if I rivet the way it is now, the metal of the rib flange will pull down into the forward facing countersunk holes and maybe be a mess. A doubler strip on the inside and forward face of the rib flange may be helpful, not sure. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Marty in Brentwood TN ----- Original Message ----- From: <JNice51355(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 1:07 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Rib Mounting > In a message dated 11/19/99 8:13:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, emrath(at)home.com > writes: > > << Anyone have a fix? >> > Marty > How many places did you do this in??? Did you do your own spars?? If you > did, then you can probably remember the big "fat" spreader bar that needed to > be countersunk, and the shop head was formed into the countersink, then > microshaved as required, making the installation of these rivets flush on > both sides. I would contact Van's, and ask an engineer if this would be an > acceptable fix in this instance. > It seems this would be the easiest possibility. Don't even "think" about > using JB Weld. > Good Luck > Jim Nice > RV6A(Wings) > WA State > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
Marty- Any reason you can't do it like the 3/4" x 3/4" spreader bar shown in fig. 7-2 in the wing section? (oh yeah! The ole double-countersink trick!) Worked pretty good for the spar. Good luck From the PossumWorks Mark Emrath wrote: > > > I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of my > rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I should > have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually > countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side on > the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with JB > Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes in > the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the aileron > mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange hole > mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me this > is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the strength > in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard rib > on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess? > > Marty Emrath RV6 right wing ready to rivet this weekend. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: forward gear screws? 6a
Date: Nov 20, 1999
The two holes for the 6A landing gear forward support are 1/4" Phillips screws that are countersunk. Avery has a 100 degrees 1/4" countersink cutters part number 1059 page 34. I used it on mine and it does a nice flush job. Maybe I am wrong but I did not use a castle head nut, used a regular fiber lock nut. Hope this helps. Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - working on Vertical fin. ----- Original Message ----- From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 4:33 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: forward gear screws? 6a > > dear listers, > today i was finish drilling the forward most gear attachment on the 6a. there > are 2 holes which calls to be countersunk 100 degrees. how did you guys > counter sink 1/4 inch holes? it looks like the fasters in these holes are > phillips 1/4 inch with castle head nuts, am i missing something? > also, does anyone recall the distance from the outer edge of the bottom skins > to the fuselage. > thanks > scott > tampa > bottom skinning 6a > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Guys: My quickbuilt frame is about 1/4" too wide also, how do we cure this wide frame to fit on the longerons to align with the canopy frame which seems to be the right width. Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 1:15 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment > > Although I find volumes of information on fitting the canopy, I have found > very little on proper orientation of the canopy frame. > > Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned > with the side of the plane? I have a point about 6 inches back from the > front that overhangs the side of the plane anywhere for 1/16 to 1/8 inch. > The plans show it flush. > > Also the rear portion of the canopy frame is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inched > higher than the rear skin. I ASSume this is so the dreaded rear skirt will > angle/pull down to the rear turtledeck. I can find no detail for this view > on the plans. I have several pictures of completed planes and this look like > it is correct. > > Don Mack > RV-6A Canopy (hard to guess that one) > donmack(at)flash.net > http://www.flash.net/~donmack > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Harvey, Do you mean that your rollover bar is 1/4" too wide? If so, I was unable to bend it with reasonable force, so I just mounted it under spring load of about 40-50 pounds which pulled it in nicely. Tom Barnes -6 canopy -----Original Message----- From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net> Date: Saturday, November 20, 1999 5:53 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment > >Guys: My quickbuilt frame is about 1/4" too wide also, how do we cure this >wide frame to fit on the longerons to align with the canopy frame which >seems to be the right width. >Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB >----- Original Message ----- >From: Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> >To: >Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 1:15 PM >Subject: RV-List: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment > > >> >> Although I find volumes of information on fitting the canopy, I have >found >> very little on proper orientation of the canopy frame. >> >> Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned >> with the side of the plane? I have a point about 6 inches back from the >> front that overhangs the side of the plane anywhere for 1/16 to 1/8 inch. >> The plans show it flush. >> >> Also the rear portion of the canopy frame is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inched >> higher than the rear skin. I ASSume this is so the dreaded rear skirt will >> angle/pull down to the rear turtledeck. I can find no detail for this view >> on the plans. I have several pictures of completed planes and this look >like >> it is correct. >> >> Don Mack >> RV-6A Canopy (hard to guess that one) >> donmack(at)flash.net >> http://www.flash.net/~donmack >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Don, look on SC-2, lower left corner and you will see the plane of the fuse side skin at the upper longeron. Note that the c-659 and c-660 sandwich the Plexiglas above the side bow, attach to the side bow, and travel down to the side skin. The outside of c-660 is in plane with the side skin. Both the c-659 and c-660 are .032 thickness totaling .064 or roughly 1/16. It sounds like your lower bow is bent a little more sharply than your longeron in that area 6 inches back. You can slightly influence the curvature of the longeron when you drill the f-6113 to the longeron, but you will probably end up having to straighten the lower bow a little. I had to do this too. I put a 2x4 on the inside of the lower bow from the front to rear and used an adjustable pipe clamp in the middle to apply bending pressure. Do both sides and be done with it. The negative effect of this, if you have to bend the bow a lot, the rear end of it (the "v") will stick out more than it should and will be noticeable when you are attaching the rear apron. There will be a slight bulge that will have to be ground out. The canopy is an area where I spent lots of time (nearly all summer). Thought I had it good enough, then when I had the glass in position to drill, I went back and reassessed everything and concluded I wasn't close enough. If I were to do it over, I'd put the class on the frame earlier in the process, maybe before I start bending things. My rollover bar and sliding frame was nearly perfect out of the box and I think I caused a lot of work by trying to tweak it too much, too early in the game. I'm ready to paint the structure now, and drill out the pilot holes for final assembly. I am beginning to see light way down there. Tom Barnes -6 canopy, deciding on color. -----Original Message----- From: Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> Date: Saturday, November 20, 1999 12:24 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment > >Although I find volumes of information on fitting the canopy, I have found >very little on proper orientation of the canopy frame. > >Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned >with the side of the plane? I have a point about 6 inches back from the >front that overhangs the side of the plane anywhere for 1/16 to 1/8 inch. >The plans show it flush. > >Also the rear portion of the canopy frame is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inched >higher than the rear skin. I ASSume this is so the dreaded rear skirt will >angle/pull down to the rear turtledeck. I can find no detail for this view >on the plans. I have several pictures of completed planes and this look like >it is correct. > >Don Mack >RV-6A Canopy (hard to guess that one) >donmack(at)flash.net >http://www.flash.net/~donmack > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: How to make spacers?, WAS: Aileron bellcrank RV6A - wrong
size bolt spec'd? Mike Henney wrote: > > > What is a good way to make spacers of the correct length and with square > ends? I use a tubing cutter and clean-up with the scotch bright wheel, but > end up throwing half my attempts away. They end up too short or not square. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Mike Henney > Parker, Colorado > RV-6A, Fuel tanks done! I cut mine a little long(about 1/32") and chucked them in the drill press lowered them onto a file to get them square. Once the length was right, I touched them up a little on the scotchbrite wheel. Before you cut your spacers, put the 10a bolt in the end of the bell crank that will attach the aileron tube, and see if the 10a bolt clears the angles! I had to make one spacer 9/32" and the other 19/32". Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: Support
Date: Nov 20, 1999
>I push myself up using my hands on the side rails. I weigh 195 and >pop out real easy. You have to have longer arms than mine. I do well to reach that far! :-) >I found it was a little hard to get up from the bare seat pans but the >added height of cushions makes it easy. Now, that's what I need to hear. I just don't want to get in the habit of using the panel. I don't want to break my rudder pedals, either. I'm more concerned about passengers, too. I'll work it out. Today, my RV went to the airport. Flight time very soon, like before Christmas. Jim Sears in KY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV Newsletter
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Hey Guys does Vans send out renewal reminders or do you contact them ? Tom (362ct reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
Wouldn't it be great if Van put it on the web-site? Tom Ervin wrote: > > Hey Guys does Vans send out renewal reminders or do you contact them ? > Tom > (362ct reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator V belt
Glenn, I used a Gates 6735 belt with the Van's alternator. This is a green, "power belt" that apparently is used on lawn tractors for driving mower blades and other accessories. The size of the belt is 3/8" by 35" (9mm x 890mm). The belt sits down in the groove of the pulleys very nicely and the dealer where I bought the belt told me it is more durable than the garden variety alternator belt. Seems I paid about $5 for it. Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal EAA Tech Counselor ------------------------- Glenn & Judi wrote: > > > Hi, > > In Van's Alternator kit they suggests a Gates 7350 Belt as a starting > point to finding the correct size belt for your particular airplane. > > What type (not brand) of belt needs to be used here? What is the belt > length of a Gates 7350. Is a 3Lxxx trade size an acceptable substitute? > > -Thanks, > Glenn Gordon > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to cause a flap!
Mark Phillips wrote: > > OK I'm stumped... > > I've got a -6 wing kit shipped back in March, trying to do those > "easiest to build of the movable surfaces" flap things. The bottom > skins I got have this pretty extreme curl on the top of the trailing > edge flange that prevents any access for riveting that itty-bitty tab on > the rear end of the short ribs. Dare I say pop rivet from the inside? > Or just gouge out a big crescent out of the flange so I can use my > squeezer? The plans show this flange to be fairly straight and parallel > with the top skin. My flange curls down toward the bottom into almost > a half circle from the flange itself. What've y'all done with this? I would not cut the curved flange. This gives lots of strength to the sudo rear spar. The plans show a singe rivet attaching the ribs to the rear spar. Center the rivet and use the old fashioned way of riveting using a rivet gun and bucking bar. Squeezers are nice but they can't fit everywhere. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
Emrath wrote: > > I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of my > rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I should > have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually > countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side on > the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with JB > Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes in > the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the aileron > mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange hole > mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me this > is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the strength > in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard rib > on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess? Heck, I have not yet to make a mistake and the plane almost ready to fly. Just kidding. I wont bore you with the long list of my mistakes. If this was my airplane I would definitely order a new wing kit and carefully place the flawed one out by the trash. Seriously, I would go ahead and rivet the beast together. Use a longer rivet than normal so it can spread and do its thing in the double countersunk hole. The AN470 rivets that then hold the aileron hinge on will do the rest. I would also run this by support(at)vansaircraft.com. Gary Zilik RV-6A Pine, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com>
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
Date: Nov 20, 1999
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above! The last issue (6th issue) contains a renewal form. The 4th issue was the most recent published. Van's doesn't send out a separate renewal letter. You can also sign up for a year 2000 subscription on-line at Van's web site. Go to the "Ordering" section and choose "rvator newsletter", then click on the "buy" button. Direct link is: http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rvat-ns.htm Good luck! Jeremy Benedict jeremy(at)infoav.com Disclaimer: In this e-mail, I speak for myself only, and not for Van's Aircraft, Inc. > Hey Guys does Vans send out renewal reminders or do you contact them ? > Tom > (362ct reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
> >I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of my >rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I should >have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually >countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side on >the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with JB >Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes in >the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the aileron >mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange hole >mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me this >is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the strength >in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard rib >on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess? > >Marty Emrath RV6 right wing ready to rivet this weekend. > Marty, I'm building an RV-8, but I believe the two models are similar in this area. I see two options: 1. put three holes between the bad ones, and leave the bad ones empty. You should have the required 3 x dia distance between the centre of the new holes and the old ones. This option is not quite as strong as the original design because of the decreased number of rivets. Vans tech support may be able to run option #1 by their engineering guys to see if the new reduced strength is enough to handle the design loads in that area. 2. put a good sized doubler on the forward face of the rear spar. The rib will now be a bit too long, so you may have to cut off the flange on the aft end, and rivet on a new one. I am assuming that you have already drilled the rib to the rear spar. If you haven't, you could probably rebend the flange to shorten the rib up enough. In any case, I wouldn't do anything without discussing it with Vans tech support. Hang in there - there is isn't a problem that can't be fixed with a bit of ingenuity, blood, sweat and tears. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
In a message dated 11/20/99 19:31:31, bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes: << > Hey Guys does Vans send out renewal reminders or do you contact them ? > Tom > (362ct reserved) >> You know the answer. ;+( I have expired several times over the years. You have to contact them and renew. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Subject: -8 rudder/VS fit
Listers, I just completed my rudder and did a trial fit to my VS. When I set the rod end bearings to give 2" at the top and 2.5" on the bottom between the spars as per the plans, the middle rod end bearing barely engages it's threads into the nutplate when aligned with the top and bottom bearings. Have any others had to buy a longer bearing for the middle? I'd sure like to use the ones I have, since they don't exactly give them away. Has anyone moved the rudder a little closer to the VS to allow the threads to engage? Does this make any sense? Thanks. Troy Black -8 starting to eyeball the elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moe Colontonio" <moejoe3(at)home.com>
Subject: -8 rudder/VS fit
Date: Nov 20, 1999
I had the same trouble. I screwed the other two rod end bearing in a little bit to make it work. It seemed like the rudder was hanging out too far anyway... Moe Colontonio moejoe3(at)home.com www.tabshred.com/moe Listers, I just completed my rudder and did a trial fit to my VS. When I set the rod end bearings to give 2" at the top and 2.5" on the bottom between the spars as per the plans, the middle rod end bearing barely engages it's threads into the nutplate when aligned with the top and bottom bearings. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: -8 rudder/VS fit
Date: Nov 20, 1999
> Has anyone >moved the rudder a little closer to the VS to allow the threads to engage? >Does this make any sense? Thanks. Yes I did that on my -6. Don't know for sure why it was necessary but it worked. I think I just had to trim the HS skin a little bit more so the rudder would clear at the limits of its travel. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: LRI
I'd like to talk off-list to anyone who has a working LRI in their plane so I can compare test data. kevin -6a (have you actually ever done a 5G stall? whew!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
> > > > >Hey Guys does Vans send out renewal reminders or do > you contact them ? > > > Tom > > (362ct reserved) For the last 12 years that I have been receiving the RVATOR, the last issue has contained the reminder and order form. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
>Don Mack wrote: >Although I find volumes of information on fitting the canopy, I have found >very little on proper orientation of the canopy frame. Check the archive. >Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned >with the side of the plane? The canopy frame's bottom rail - the rail running fore and aft - will have the side skirt riveted to it. This skirt is supposed to sit on the deck, flush with the lower fuselage skin. That means that the frame has to be inside the fuselage skin. At OSH I saw some with skirts overhanging the skin. On my quickbuild, I had to cut the front bow and shorten it by about 3/16 inch to get the proper fit. I also had to cut the center rail and lengthen it. Doing it again, I would leave the plexi off till ready to close it up and fly. Do the frame now and the lock. Last steps: Forward fuselage skin riveted. Plexi cut and attach. Fiberglass mold windscreen fairing. Test fly and run in new engine Add wheel pants and leg fairings. Make adjustments and changes. Attach emp fairing properly. Paint. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> > Another thing you might consider is to order an RV-6 tail kit first and see > how you like building. If you don't like building you won't have made a > truly large investment in something that's not fun. > > On the other hand, if you successfully complete the tail kit, but still > want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you about about a > $2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild because they won't > have to build the tail feathers for you. Sorry, this is another stupid question...but here goes. I thought that I read something that Van said about buying the Tail kit and later getting the QB. I might have misunderstood, but I thought he said that you need to buy the tail kit and the QB option at the same time because the would be matched better..?? Was he talking about trying to fit different tails with different models? etc...RV4 with RV6 QB kit? Sorry, about all of this, I think I am trying to cram too much info into my brain in a very short amount of time....plus having to take pain meds after my back surgery. I did get in the mail today the EAA Aerocrafter book. It looks really good, so I am going to hunker down and read this for awhile and look over the preview plans for the RV6 I got the other day. I wish I could find out some more info on the RV9...it looks very interesting. Jim Arnold j_arnold(at)swbell.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Date: Nov 20, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> Date: Saturday, November 20, 1999 9:13 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment Not familiar with the QB but on the Slow Build if one follows the plans the side of the fuselage longerons in the cockpit area, have an outward curve. In fitting the side skirts to be flush with the lower skin you will have to allow clearance of about 1/8 in at the front end bottom face of the skin. Reason... when the canopy slides back it tracks UP the guide in the center of the the rear bow, this in turn pivots the frame [and the skirts] around the wheels that roll in the track. Back goes up, front goes down. The only answer to this is to make the longerons in the cockpit area parallel to each other, then you can have the skirts outside of the side skin and avoid the GAP along the bottom of the skirt / longeron interface. Derek Reed OR 6A SB [with gap!] >>Those who have gone through it, how were the canopy frames sides aligned >>with the side of the plane? > >The canopy frame's bottom rail - the rail running fore and aft - will have >the side skirt riveted to it. This skirt is supposed to sit on the deck, >flush with the lower fuselage skin. That means that the frame has to be >inside the fuselage skin. At OSH I saw some with skirts overhanging the >skin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: OSH Housing
Date: Nov 20, 1999
Larry: The EAA Housing office maintains a complete list although again, it might be a little early. That is how I found an excellent house which we rented this summer and have reserved for next year. After 27 years of staying in the dorms, a pleasant, air conditioned house with outstanding hosts is the way to go. Call the EAA and see what they recommend. Doug Weiler, MN Wing > > A while ago several of you guys recommended, based on first-hand experience, > where to stay during Oshkosh...in the homes of local residents at OSH. Some > of you even named names. I can't find these recommendations in archives. I > know it's a little early for next year, but I'd like to beat the rush. Can > anyone provide the name and number of a couple of these generous people? > > Larry Bowen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
Date: Nov 20, 1999
My thanks to Mark, Jim, Gary, and Kevin for their responses. Another local builder and Jet plane technician, Tony and with concurrence form David, it appears this may be the best way to proceed. I'll be calling Van's on Monday and see if they concur. I'll let y'all know their response. Marty in Brentwood TN. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 7:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Rib Mounting > > Marty- > > Any reason you can't do it like the 3/4" x 3/4" spreader bar shown in > fig. 7-2 in the wing section? (oh yeah! The ole double-countersink > trick!) Worked pretty good for the spar. > Good luck > > From the PossumWorks > Mark > > Emrath wrote: > > > > > > I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of my > > rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I should > > have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually > > countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side on > > the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with JB > > Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes in > > the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the aileron > > mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange hole > > mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me this > > is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the strength > > in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard rib > > on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess? > > > > Marty Emrath RV6 right wing ready to rivet this weekend. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Subject: Re: Quickbuild or regular
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
> > While I certainly think the QB is a good value, sometimes the > rhetoric > in favor of it gets a little over-enthusiastic! :-) > > It is probably unproductive to place actual numbers on the amount of > hours saved by the QB option. The construction hours logged vary all > over the map for all the various flavors of RV's. I built the > standard > RV-6 kit and logged 1000 hours to get the plane ready for the > airport. > Other builders have logged 3000 hours for the same task. - You are exactly right. Which is why at Van's customers are generally told that it will cut "your" construction time in half (what ever your construction time would ultimately be). This can be said because regardless of how many hours builders take with a reg kit, most of them were at the point that a quick build kit is, when they were about 1/2 way through their project. Scott McDaniels North Plains, OR These opinions and ideas are my own and may not reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
If you are referring to your RVator subscription, you have to contact them, I know from experience. Harry Crosby ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 1999
From: Greg Booze <macbooze(at)ior.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender alignment
-8 Builders, I'm in the process of sealing up the right fuel tank. The fuel quantity sender (S/W) mounting plate, therefore the sender, is off verticle alignment (about 20 deg.) according to drawing 16 (C-C'). Can I bend the fuel sender wire to make the float move in the proper motion or do I have to order a new root rib and redrill? Thanks, Greg Rathdrum, ID. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Ground Integrity Measurements
I've had two requests recently on an article I did three years ago for KAB magazine on bulding a 4-wire milliohmmeter. I've resurected the article and updated it. Interested builders can find this 150K .pdf file at: http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/ Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Hello everyone, Like many who have gone before me, I am having trouble fitting my empanage fairing on my RV-6A. I cut away the front part of it so that it slides back and now touches the HS along its length. The flanges the run up along the VS and the flanges that run out onto the HS curve away from the surfaces that they are supposed to fair! I tried the heat gun, which made them lay down nicely, but they curved back up when they cooled. It looks like they are all about one inch too long and it looks like I need to cut them away completely. Can this be right? I think I have done too much cutting already. How about the rest of you, did you have to cut those flanges off in order to get a smooth fit? I now wish I had used the part as a mold a-la-Bob Skinner's posting about two years ago. With it cut up like this, it is probably no longer going to function as a mold. I might also try the tip in the RVAtor earlier this year. Greg Halverson mad his fairings out of aluminum (hooray) and said that it took only two hours per side. Has anyone else done it this way? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Altimeter/encoder
Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > Don't know about certification sign off, Denny, but you do need to have a > log book entry about pitot static test before flight don't you?? > > hal > > > > >Can anyone tell me what is required at certification on the testing of > >altimeter and encoder? I have a used altimeter and RMI encoder. > > I just went through this in August. You have to have the encoder/xponder > tested every two years for VFR, this cost me $100, took about 30 minutes.. > IF you are going to fly IFR you have to have the pitot static tested also > every two years. Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap TX RV-4 55 hours now. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender alignment
Greg Booze wrote: " fuel quantity sender (S/W) mounting plate, therefore the sender, is off verticle alignment (about 20 deg.) according to drawing 16 (C-C')." STOP! There is a very subtle difference in the mounting flanges of the fuel senders, IE F-385B (left) and IE F385C (right). After you take them out of the box I don't think there is any way to tell which is left or right. Try the other one (You did order a left and right??) PS You should have adjusted the "bends" before you closed up the tanks. Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA , RV-6A, fitting canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Altimeter/encoder
Danny, go to www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/checklist.htm. To quote: The following is the inspection check list I use during the inspection of Amateur-Built aircraft. This check list is very good and should answer you question. The inspector can be reached for help. Earl RV4 on gear Denny Harjehausen wrote: > > > Can anyone tell me what is required at certification on the testing of > altimeter and encoder? I have a used altimeter and RMI encoder. My FAA > inspection is next Tuesday. A very thorough EAA tech inspected my airplane > the other night. He thought I had to have in tested by a licensed > instrument shop and signed off before certification. > > I was intending to take the airplane up to an airport that has this > available after I had done some flight testing on it. > > Any advise on this? > > Thanks! > > Have a good one! > Denny Harjehausen > RV-6 N641DH > Lebanon, OR > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Special Tools
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Lister's, I began the process to install my engine on my 8A. An IO360 A1A turning a Hartzell prop, with a Vettermann Exhaust. In the process I can see that I will need several special tools, or tools modified for the installation. 1. The exhaust studs, several rear studs, one cannot put a standard socket on to torque, is there such as thing as a thin wall socket, or do I use a crows foot if I can get one in? 2. The nut on the lord mount bolt behind number 4 cyl top. Due to the interference with the push rod tube I cannot get a wrench on it. It seems like the solution would to be grind a 5/8 box wrench thinner to be able to slide it onto the nut. Is there a thin 5/8 box wrench for this application. 3. The prop nuts & other nuts on accessories on the engine. Is there such a thing as an extension crows foot? This would be used to torque nuts to the correct values while giving the wrench a longer reach to get behind things. If these special tools are available please advise as to where to purchase. Thanks Mark Steffensen 8A firewall forward & canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Equipment List for certification
The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to wonder, in my thinking. Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be listed, such engine type? Have a good one! Denny Harjehausen RV-6 N641DH Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/20/99
REGARDING NAVAID AUTOPILOT: Based on several recommendations, I bought one a year ago. When you buy one, they will supply a couple of very good drawings which show how to mount the servo. I also bought the coupler. I haven't yet figured out how to hook that up. Also, you have to build your own harness..which wasn't a big deal. I am finished too and awaiting inspection and signoff. I have heard of a couple of people who had to send their unit back for rework, but that was a year or two ago and I think there have been improvements by the manufacturer since then. I hope. I asked the manufacturer how to link the tracking to a Magellan EC10 and they told me to ask Magellan. I don't get that part nor have I determined how as yet. I am just in heat to fly this thing, and have all winter to figure out the fine details. Factory support is very good, I hear. Good luck and happy landings. If and when you do mount the servo in accordance with the instructions, be careful...getting a pop rivet tool into the area it needs to go is very tight...after mounting the platform, I noticed I made some internal to external dents in the belly skin unwittingly. This while forcing the rivet tool into tight quarters. If it could be mounted before riveting on the belly skin, that would be ideal. Or modify to suit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Special Tools
Date: Nov 21, 1999
I can answer #2. I found a very highly polished and thin 5/8 box wrench at Sears that fit on that particular nut. This is part of a tool line that Sears touts for master craftsmen or something like that. It cost about twice what an ordinary Craftsman box wrench cost. I also went through everyone that was hanging on the display. Some were ground and polished thinner than others. As for #1, I have a thin wall socket that seems to fit. I hear that the best way to go is to find a thin wall socket with a drive for this nut. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- 1. The exhaust studs, several rear studs, one cannot put a standard socket on to torque, is there such as thing as a thin wall socket, or do I use a crows foot if I can get one in? 2. The nut on the lord mount bolt behind number 4 cyl top. Due to the interference with the push rod tube I cannot get a wrench on it. It seems like the solution would to be grind a 5/8 box wrench thinner to be able to slide it onto the nut. Is there a thin 5/8 box wrench for this application. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
Date: Nov 21, 1999
> >Hello everyone, > >Like many who have gone before me, I am having trouble fitting my empanage >fairing on my RV-6A. I cut away the front part of it so that it slides back >and now touches the HS along its length. > >The flanges the run up along the VS and the flanges that run out onto the HS >curve away from the surfaces that they are supposed to fair! I tried the >heat gun, which made them lay down nicely, but they curved back up when they >cooled. It looks like they are all about one inch too long and it looks >like I need to cut them away completely. Can this be right? I think I have >done too much cutting already. How about the rest of you, did you have to >cut those flanges off in order to get a smooth fit? Yes, I had to cut quite a bit off the flanges and yes it helped a lot. Just leave enough for the screws. After you heat the fairing you need to hold it in the new position while it cools. This does work well. I used it to make the front portion fit. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP "Trouble" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/17/99
I'm awaiting inspection/signoff on an RV6A and don't want to placard the fuel caps yet until I paint next spring. Is the engraving something like, "100 lowlead only"? Are you aware of the new "O" rings which won't fit your fuel caps anymore necessitating replacement of the caps, too? Check with Van's. Apparently, the ones which came with the older kits require o rings which are no longer available. Throw the baby out with the bathwater!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild
I would recommend against using cardboard for panels in your plane. Cardboard absorbs moisture and loses its shape quickly. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
On 21 Nov 99, at 6:39, Stephen J. Soule wrote: > The flanges the run up along the VS and the flanges that run out onto the > HS curve away from the surfaces that they are supposed to fair! I tried > the heat gun, which made them lay down nicely, but they curved back up > when they cooled. It looks like they are all about one inch too long and > it looks like I need to cut them away completely. Can this be right? I > think I have done too much cutting already. How about the rest of you, > did you have to cut those flanges off in order to get a smooth fit? Steve, Same situation with mine. I cut off at least an inch, and laid up more fiberglass by hand. There's no good excuse for the way the as- delivered fairing curves away from the surface it's supposed to fair. Poor product. Tim ****** Tim Lewis timrv6a(at)earthlink.net N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99 Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender alignment
Date: Nov 21, 1997
Bend for clearance. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Greg Booze <macbooze(at)ior.com> Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 1:35 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel sender alignment > >-8 Builders, > > I'm in the process of sealing up the right fuel tank. >The fuel quantity sender (S/W) mounting plate, therefore the sender, is >off verticle alignment (about 20 deg.) according to drawing 16 (C-C'). >Can I bend the fuel sender wire to make the float move in the proper >motion or do I have to order a new root rib and redrill? > >Thanks, >Greg >Rathdrum, ID. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
> >The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. >I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this >list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" >removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to >wonder, in my thinking. Take a peek at the W/B report for a certified single. At the top, you find the basic empty weight of the airplane listed. Below, you find all of the items added on that are generally optional with the manufacturer. Certainly thhings like radios, antenna installations, autopilots, etc. are on that list. >Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the >airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be >listed, such engine type? If you've been asked to fill out such a document for the FAA on an experimental airplane, the individual asking for it has their head where the sun don't shine. Amateur built aircraft do not have cast-iron W/B envelopes which the pilot is legally required to observe. Certainly as a matter of practical sense, you DO want to observe the manufacturer's recommendations for W/B limits but the FAA has no requlatory interest in that. Now, the guy many simply be interested in prompting you to do your homework all in the name of public safety. So like all careful builders, you DO plan to weigh your airplane and make modifications as needed to insure comfortable operability of the machine. I'd simply do the weight measurements you planed to do anyhow and humor the guy by filling in the form with one line describing the w/b for your airplane "as equipped." and be done with it. However, I wouldn't sign the form nor allow anyone else to put their name on it either. Doing so would only lend your tacit acceptance to something that should not become standard practice. Let's not encourage them. Enter the numbers in the ship's logbook as reference information. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Panel Lights Reflect Onto The Windsheild
From: "Don Diehl" <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net>
To solve the problem of glare from the panel lights in my RV-4 I cut half moon shapes from poster board and taped them in place at the bottom of the canopy until I found the shortest one that would stop the glare. Now I have a piece of upholstery board as the finished shape but probably will replace it with something thinner. Whatever the material, its very important to have it a dark color on the top or the reflected glare will drive you nuts in the daytime. Two of Vans eyeball lights provide plenty of illumination for my panel. Small lights along the aft edge of the glare shield worked very well for me in a Cessna 170 and again in a 195. Don Diehl N28EW > > I am planning a 5 inch glaresheid above the panel in my RV6A. This will > hopefully cut out that reflection that I have heard a few people mention in > the entire RV series of aircraft. Does any one feel this might work? > > The new overhang will be made out of light gauge white plastic sheet from a > hobby store. It will do it's job yet crumple and fold if an occupant hits it > during an accident. I also have a plan of lighting my panel from the edge of > the glareshield. I figure the lights won't do much until they get at least > five inches from the panel. I've gotten six very small 12V light bulbs that > I will epoxy in place. > > Regards, > Norman Hunger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
Date: Nov 21, 1999
> > >The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. >I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this >list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" >removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to >wonder, in my thinking. > >Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the >airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be >listed, such engine type? > > >Have a good one! >Denny Harjehausen >RV-6 N641DH >Lebanon, OR Denny, I started an equipment list last night. I just listed everything that I could think of, and will weed it out when the FAA guy comes buy for my inspection. I listed all the instruments/avionics, the engine type, horsepower, prop, engine accessories, firewall forward components, lighting, and any add-ons like the overvoltage module, map pockets, big screen TV, wet bar, microwave, hot tub, etc. :) I approached it like I was putting together a full description as if I were selling it and the buyer wanted to know what was in the plane. At least it's a start. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD wing tips 'n fairings. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Vans RV Gauges
I would like to add my two cents to this argument. There are many kits for sale that are less airplane than Vans for double the price. The gauges were announced in advance so we could plan our panels and not purchase items we could not return. They did not know for sure when they would be available. They could also charge more for these gauges and get away with it. Check the price of other aircraft gauges that may be of lesser quality. I purchased a kit that had been owned by three other builders. I had lots of questions as would any new builder in addition to mistakes that had to be corrected. THEY WERE ALWAYS VERY POLITE AND PATIENT. THEY TREATED ME AS IF I HAD JUST PURCHASED THE KIT FROM THEM AT THE CURRENT FULL PRICE! I did let them know how I solved at least one major problem so it could be relayed to others. I am sure this is helpful and appreciated. Their service and shipping has always been good to excellent. In one case there was a delay (I often follow up with a call a few days later) due to an incorrect zip code. They had this fixed and called me back within the hour. (on my first home built, an entire shipment was held up because 1/4 oz of wood nails were back ordered and they did not notify me and appeared not to care) I ordered some tubing. Vans price was approximately one half that of another supplier. He truly does pass on savings he gets to his builders. He could have made a much bigger profit and still saved me money. Even if there is a delay, a polite phone call is cheaper than paying double the price. I wanted to buy a more expensive part, however, I was told to save my money as the less expensive part (upgraded) would work just fine. It is this kind of honesty and integrity that permeates the entire operation. Is everything perfect? I suppose not, however, their service, attitude, cooperation, honesty, etc., is of a much higher level than most others I have dealt with. I also know that I am anxious to get things I ordered yesterday, and am now another year behind my building schedule. They are quicker than I, and there is usually something else that can be worked on so time is not lost on the project. Art Glaser ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Van's credit for feathers on QB
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail feathers even if you get a QB Bill >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't >have to build the tail feathers for you. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Van's credit for feathers on QB
Bill Shook wrote: > > Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail > feathers even if you get a QB > > Bill The quickbuild kit comes with the assembled emp. You build the rudder and trim tab. If you buy and build a tail kit and then decide to buy a quickbuild, Van gives you credit for the tail kit and then doesn't send you those parts. Half of the quickbuilds are sold that way. Dave > > > >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still > >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a > >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't > >have to build the tail feathers for you. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: My first flight in Charlie's 6A
RVers, Well, Charlie Tyrrel, aka "Gillette Charlie" (my friend that I helped with building his 6A) got his test period flown off the other day. I got to be his first passenger on Friday. Saturday, Charlie flew a bunch of young eagles at Gillette, WY. What a hoot! Charlie has a very light (1044 lbs, unpainted) RV6A with a Power Sport, O-320, 160 hp Lycoming with Lasar ignition and a constant speed prop. I've flown in 4 or 5 RV's and had 470 hours on my 150 hp, fixed pitch RV6 but this is the first time I've flown in one with a constant speed prop. The difference in take off and climb performance is amazing. I've never been pushed back into the seat like I was with Charlie's plane. We discussed fixed vs constant speed props quite a bit. I didn't put one on my RV because of cost (or more accurately, because I was too tight). I recommended the constant speed because of the high density altitude we have in this area but sure hated to see him spend the money for one. But, judging from one of the largest RV grins I've seen, I think he's happy he went with the constant speed. I know he will be happy next summer. Charlie has flown enough with me in my RV6 that he has a good feel for fixed pitch performance in high density altitude situations and I know that next summer, he will really appreciate the extra performance of the constant speed. The engine/prop combination seems pretty smooth. If I were to build another airplane, I would go with the 160 hp and constant speed (if I could scratch together the bucks) as opposed to the 180 hp. I think Charlie plans on having the prop dynamically balanced which should make things even smoother. Dynamic prop balancing made a world of difference on both props that I had on my RV6. The Van's manual aileron trim worked very well. I see no need to install electric aileron trim. The electric elevator trim also seemed to work well. Charlie used the Gretz elevator trim which, in my opinion, is a better method than installing a trim servo in the elevator. Without the manual trim knob and no vertical support going from the fuel selector mount plate to the instrument panel, getting in and out of the plane is much easier. Getting in and out of the slider would take a little getting used to for me after so many hours in a tip up. For the new listers, you can look at Charlie's airplane at: http://www.vcn.com/~charliet Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Special Tools
Mark, I use a thin wall socket (cheap socket, turned down on a lathe) with a "U" joint on an extension for the exhaust nuts. We used cut down, Wall Mart type, wrenches for the dynafocal nuts. For the prop, you can use a regular open end/box end wrench as an extension when torquing. Put the open end on the nut. For the closed end of the wrench, use the appropriate size bolt with a washer and a nut tightened up against the washer. Put the socket on your torque wrench on one end of the bolt and the closed end of the wrench on the nut. You'll have to re-figure the torque values based on the length of the wrench. This process is kind of a pain on a constant speed but should work. This method works better on the fixed pitch props used with the "H" style of prop extension in which you torque the nuts from the rear (used on the older, fixed pitch cowls.) With the newer fixed pitch installations used with the standarized, constant speed cowl, the prop bolts are torqued from the front. Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 >I began the process to install my engine on my 8A. An IO360 A1A turning a >Hartzell prop, with a Vettermann Exhaust. In the process I can see that I >will need several special tools, or tools modified for the installation. > >1. The exhaust studs, several rear studs, one cannot put a standard socket >on to torque, is there such as thing as a thin wall socket, or do I use a >crows foot if I can get one in? > >2. The nut on the lord mount bolt behind number 4 cyl top. Due to the >interference with the push rod tube I cannot get a wrench on it. It seems >like the solution would to be grind a 5/8 box wrench thinner to be able to >slide it onto the nut. Is there a thin 5/8 box wrench for this application. > >3. The prop nuts & other nuts on accessories on the engine. Is there such a >thing as an extension crows foot? This would be used to torque nuts to the >correct values while giving the wrench a longer reach to get behind things. > >If these special tools are available please advise as to where to purchase. > >Thanks > >Mark Steffensen >8A firewall forward & canopy > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-6A Quick Build Wings For Sale
PRIMED INSIDE, FUEL TANKS SEALED, BELL CRANKS FINISHED, ALL CONTROL SURFACES FINISHED, TOP SKIN DRILLED & DIMPLED, CENTER SECTION DRILLED, PUSH RODS FINISHED, LANDING LIGHTS INSTALLED. $4,800.00. THE REASON FOR SELLING THIS WING KIT IS I HAVE ALREADY BUILT ONE RV AND JUST DECIDED TO KEEP FLYING THE ONE I HAVE AND NOT BUILD ANOTHER ONE. BOB BAGGETT accuracy(at)earthlink.net 615-643-1030 PLEASE RESPOND OFF LIST ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
The 5th and maybe most important would be the video tapes by George and Becky, and then don't forget this list. Cecil Hatfield > >There are 4 important resources to help us through the canopy >construction. > >Van's instructions >Jim Cone's notes in the Tri-State newsletter, 4/95, 10/96 and 1/97 >Frank Justice's instructions >Your Brain > >After thoroughly reading (and completely understanding) the first 3, >engage >the 4th. This worked very well for me. I didn't follow any of the 3 >published resources completely. All 3 were very useful though. Two >bits of >advice: 1. spend lots of time fitting the metal tubing to your >longerons to >get it as perfect as possible and it will minimize the problems down >the >road. 2. on the rear of the slider, use the 4 inch straight edge >mentioned in >the Justice instructions to set height and alignment. My canopy >didn't quite >fit right here so I beveled the plexi by sanding. I'm happy with the >results. > >Good Luck >Brian Eckstein > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV Newsletter
Each January you need to renew for the new year. If you renew late you will get the prev.'missed' issues. Cecil Hatfield ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Special Tools
Date: Nov 21, 1997
1/4" sockets work well, especially if you get the built in u-joint kind. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 10:56 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Special Tools > >Mark, > > I use a thin wall socket (cheap socket, turned down on a lathe) with a >"U" joint on an extension for the exhaust nuts. We used cut down, Wall >Mart type, wrenches for the dynafocal nuts. For the prop, you can use a >regular open end/box end wrench as an extension when torquing. Put the >open end on the nut. For the closed end of the wrench, use the appropriate >size bolt with a washer and a nut tightened up against the washer. Put the >socket on your torque wrench on one end of the bolt and the closed end of >the wrench on the nut. You'll have to re-figure the torque values based on >the length of the wrench. This process is kind of a pain on a constant >speed but should work. This method works better on the fixed pitch props >used with the "H" style of prop extension in which you torque the nuts from >the rear (used on the older, fixed pitch cowls.) With the newer fixed >pitch installations used with the standarized, constant speed cowl, the >prop bolts are torqued from the front. > >Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA >Tech Counselor # 3726 > > >>I began the process to install my engine on my 8A. An IO360 A1A turning a >>Hartzell prop, with a Vettermann Exhaust. In the process I can see that I >>will need several special tools, or tools modified for the installation. >> >>1. The exhaust studs, several rear studs, one cannot put a standard socket >>on to torque, is there such as thing as a thin wall socket, or do I use a >>crows foot if I can get one in? >> >>2. The nut on the lord mount bolt behind number 4 cyl top. Due to the >>interference with the push rod tube I cannot get a wrench on it. It seems >>like the solution would to be grind a 5/8 box wrench thinner to be able to >>slide it onto the nut. Is there a thin 5/8 box wrench for this application. >> >>3. The prop nuts & other nuts on accessories on the engine. Is there such a >>thing as an extension crows foot? This would be used to torque nuts to the >>correct values while giving the wrench a longer reach to get behind things. >> >>If these special tools are available please advise as to where to purchase. >> >>Thanks >> >>Mark Steffensen >>8A firewall forward & canopy >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote: > > Like many who have gone before me, I am having trouble fitting my empanage > fairing on my RV-6A. I now wish I had used the part as a mold a-la-Bob > Skinner's posting about two years ago.With it cut up like this, it is probably > no longer going to function as a mold. After a couple of hours in tinkering with Van's supplied fairing I turned it into a mold. I had cut down the forward top edge and opened up the rear to clear the elev control horns. It would have been better to start with a fresh fairing as a mold but my cut down version worked. > > > I might also try the tip in the RVAtor earlier this year. Greg Halverson > mad his fairings out of aluminum (hooray) and said that it took only two > hours per side. Has anyone else done it this way? I thought about this too. I formed the windshield intersection fairings from 3003 and thought that 6061 would work well for the emp fairing. Working with poster board I could get the sides to look good but was never able to join the two sides in front in an elegant fashion. So I used Bob's compost method. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JHeadric(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Support
Re: Getting up and out of an RV6 (6A)- I, too, use both hands, but I push up on my left side with the side canopy rails and I put my right hand on the seat back or the cross member that supports it. Still, when you're 70, any way at all works if you get out! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Van's credit for feathers on QB
The Empennage kit is included in the price of the QB Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Wings #80972 Bonnyville, AB Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Bill Shook wrote: > > Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail > feathers even if you get a QB > > Bill > > >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still > >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a > >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't > >have to build the tail feathers for you. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
In a message dated 11/21/99 5:36:12, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: << How about the rest of you, did you have to cut those flanges off in order to get a smooth fit? >> yes D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Van's credit for feathers on QB
I thought the QB builder had to build the entire empennage section. Has this changed recently. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Wings #80972 Bonnyville, AB Canada http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm David Burton wrote: > > Bill Shook wrote: > > > > > Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail > > feathers even if you get a QB > > > > Bill > > The quickbuild kit comes with the assembled emp. You build the rudder and > trim tab. If you buy and build a tail kit and then decide to buy a > quickbuild, Van gives you credit for the tail kit and then doesn't send you > those parts. Half of the quickbuilds are sold that way. > > Dave > > > > > > > >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still > > >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a > > >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't > > >have to build the tail feathers for you. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Van's credit for feathers on QB
> > >Bill Shook wrote: > >> >> Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail >> feathers even if you get a QB >> >> Bill > > The quickbuild kit comes with the assembled emp. You build the rudder and >trim tab. If you buy and build a tail kit and then decide to buy a >quickbuild, Van gives you credit for the tail kit and then doesn't send you >those parts. Half of the quickbuilds are sold that way. > >Dave > >> >> >> >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still >> >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a >> >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't >> >have to build the tail feathers for you. >> > > > > > We need to be careful to mention what model RV we are talking about. The RV-6/6A Quickbuild kit come with the tail mostly already built. The RV-8/8A Quickbuild kits do not include the tail. You have to buy the standard tail kit and build it. Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Denny, If you give me a fax # for you I can fax you a copy of an equipment list. **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 1999 4:38 AM Subject: RV-List: Equipment List for certification > > The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. > I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this > list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" > removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to > wonder, in my thinking. > > Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the > airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be > listed, such engine type? > > > Have a good one! > Denny Harjehausen > RV-6 N641DH > Lebanon, OR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender alignment
You know, I thought I found a way: hold the sender with the resistive part away from you in the correct mounting pos., i.e. white part slightly down angled, away from you. My senders had a " S.W." stamp. Holding as described above. the right hand sender had the "S.W." at the right side of the center connector, the left hand sender ended up with the "S.W." on the left hand side. I was lucky, I used the old coverplate as a stiffner for the 2nd bay (inverted tank) and drilled *before* I realized that the holes around the "S.W." stamp were further apart. I was very lucky in that I not only had the cover plate for the correct sensor side, I also had the orientation right. I guess luck is sometimes with the bliss and ignorant. ( no offense, only applies to myself ;-) ). Gert Richard Reynolds wrote: > > > Greg Booze wrote: > " fuel quantity sender (S/W) mounting plate, therefore the sender, is > off verticle alignment (about 20 deg.) according to drawing 16 (C-C')." > > STOP! There is a very subtle difference in the mounting flanges of the > fuel senders, IE F-385B (left) and IE F385C (right). After you take them > out of the box I don't think there is any way to tell which is left or > right. Try the other one (You did order a left and right??) > > PS You should have adjusted the "bends" before you closed up the tanks. > > Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA , RV-6A, fitting canopy > > > > > > > > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/17/99
Auto parts stores carry kits of O rings - al sizes. There is also available Oring making kits of rubber and glue. Send me your unwanted fuel caps. > >I'm awaiting inspection/signoff on an RV6A and don't want to placard the >fuel caps yet until I paint next spring. Is the engraving something >like, "100 lowlead only"? Are you aware of the new "O" rings which >won't fit your fuel caps anymore necessitating replacement of the caps, >too? Check with Van's. Apparently, the ones which came with the older >kits require o rings which are no longer available. Throw the baby out >with the bathwater!!! > > Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com>
Subject: Re: Van's credit for feathers on QB
Date: Nov 21, 1999
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above! The confusion is from the difference between the -6/6A and -8/8A QBs. This is spelled out at: www.vansaircraft.com/public/kit-qb.htm RV-6/6A ------- Builder chooses between empennage in Quickbuild or standard kit form. The price of the Quickbuild-form empennage is included in the listed QB price, so if you choose standard-form empennage, you would take $765 off the listed QB price. RV-8/8A ------- Builder MUST build empennage from standard kit. The price of the standard emp kit is included in the listed QB price. Hope this helps, Jeremy Benedict jeremy(at)infoav.com > I thought the QB builder had to build the entire empennage section. Has this > changed recently. > > Dave Hrycauk > RV-8 Wings #80972 > Bonnyville, AB Canada > http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm > > David Burton wrote: > > > > > Bill Shook wrote: > > > > > > > > Is the following actually true? I thought you have to build the tail > > > feathers even if you get a QB > > > > > > Bill > > > > The quickbuild kit comes with the assembled emp. You build the rudder and > > trim tab. If you buy and build a tail kit and then decide to buy a > > quickbuild, Van gives you credit for the tail kit and then doesn't send you > > those parts. Half of the quickbuilds are sold that way. > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > >On the other hand, if you successfully complete the >tail kit, but still > > > >want to go with a Quickbuild kit, Van's will give you >about about a > > > >$2,000.00 credit toward the purchase of a Quickbuild >because they won't > > > >have to build the tail feathers for you. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
Date: Nov 21, 1999
>> The flanges the run up along the VS and the flanges that run out onto the >> HS curve away from the surfaces that they are supposed to fair! [snip!] >Same situation with mine. I cut off at least an inch, and laid up more >fiberglass by hand. There's no good excuse for the way the as- >delivered fairing curves away from the surface it's supposed to fair. Yeah but it builds character! :-) Lots of ways to get a nice fairing have been posted before (check the archives).. Here's what I did: I trimmed the edge back some (1/2" or so as I recall), ground off the gel-coat about an 3/4" back from the edge, and also sanded the inside to give it as much "bite" as possibe", then put packing tape on the HS and VS behind where the fairing goes, attached the fairing the plane and slathered "kitty hair" polyester long strand glass auto body filler along the edges, making sure to jam it down in the gaps. Cut and sanded the edges, filled the remainig imperfections with microbaloon slurry, and it came out quite nice and so far is holding up fine. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
Date: Nov 21, 1999
>>The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. >>I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this >>list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" >>removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to >>wonder, in my thinking. >> >>Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the >>airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be >>listed, such engine type? I was confused about this at first as well, but questions to the list and my DAR cleared it up. The list has nothing to do with what you can legally fly with and without; it's not a minimum equipment list. It's for w/b purposes and is used to calculate your new CG if you remove something or replace it with something of a different weight. This includes the instruments since any of them might be replaced some day. So just start with all the instruments in the panel, and add anything else that may be removed or replaced in the "normal" course. You can't possibly put EVERYTHING that could affect the w/b, otherwise you're be weighing the hoses in your engine compartment (do you know for SURE if that replacement hose is the same weight?) But wheel fairings/pants might be an example, and possibly seat cushions since you may remove them for aerobatic/parachute flights. My DAR was pretty casual about it -- he told me "just put on there what you think should be on there". Other inspectors might be more strict, I'd suggest asking your FSDO, that way you won't get a rude surprise. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: All-Electric Airplane and Website Progress
I've just uploaded an article that mirrors some new info that will be included in upcomming Revision 9 to the book. It deals with all-electric airplanes for those of us who are on a budget . . . aren't we all? See: http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/ I've also uploaded our entire website including articles to a new server on the east coast. Between cable modem here and their multiple fiber optic feeds, the whole 30+ megabyte upload took less than 30 minutes. I've still got some bugs to work out on how to speak to their forms mailer. I'm also pondering their secure server features and site search capabilities . . . once I get educated, our site should take some quantum leaps forward. Thanks to all for the time and effort to give me feedback while we were still wrestling with the old service provider . . . those folks are history. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Special Tools
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
1. I use a 1/4 drive SK universal socket for this. Although most of my tools are craftsman, their universal sockets are rather bulky. 2. I have a ground down wrench for this task and have lent it to others from time to time. 3. For the prop nuts on a constant speed prop, especially an aerobatic one, I made an extra long open end wrench and I put a spring scale on it and pull. Length times force equals torque. Check the scale against a known weight and you are at least as accurate as a torque wrench. Bruce Green writes: > >Lister's, > >I began the process to install my engine on my 8A. An IO360 A1A >turning a >Hartzell prop, with a Vettermann Exhaust. In the process I can see >that I >will need several special tools, or tools modified for the >installation. > >1. The exhaust studs, several rear studs, one cannot put a standard >socket >on to torque, is there such as thing as a thin wall socket, or do I >use a >crows foot if I can get one in? > >2. The nut on the lord mount bolt behind number 4 cyl top. Due to the >interference with the push rod tube I cannot get a wrench on it. It >seems >like the solution would to be grind a 5/8 box wrench thinner to be >able to >slide it onto the nut. Is there a thin 5/8 box wrench for this >application. > >3. The prop nuts & other nuts on accessories on the engine. Is there >such a >thing as an extension crows foot? This would be used to torque nuts to >the >correct values while giving the wrench a longer reach to get behind >things. > >If these special tools are available please advise as to where to >purchase. > >Thanks > >Mark Steffensen >8A firewall forward & canopy > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Gear driven alternator
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
In the aerobatic comunity, this alternator is just about considered the standard. It is the only alternator on lots of 0-540 powered ships an does a more than adequate job. If you are not ultra weight concious though, it is kind of expensive. You can be almost as light for a lot less money. Bruce Green > >In a message dated 11/19/99 12:47:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, >SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: > ><< I'm thinking about installing a B&C gear driven alternator in my >RV-6A. >The > AS&S catalog gives a brief description. It says that it is an 8 amp >unit. > Limited feedback from the List indicates that it is reliable. My > plane-to-be will be day, VFR with a radio, turn & bank indicator, > micro-encoder and transponder. I would use this as my only >alternator. I > have two questions. Am I crazy, or is this workable? Can I get >information > about the B&C alternator on the Internet? >> > >IMO 8 amps is barely enough for a bop around the patch plane with an >armstrong starter. How long will it take at idle for this alternator >to >restore the battery juice that the electric starter just consumed in >kicking >the engine over? The minute you put any transmitter or lights on your >bird >you're SOL. I think that a 20 or 35A job is the smallest that I would >put on >an O-320/360 in a real "working" plane. > >-GV > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Subject: News Letter
Date: Nov 21, 1999
VANS new web site has a spot to order the news letter. Explains the whole deal on how it's a year at a time and walks you through the ordering procedure. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: Special Tools
Put a crows foot on an extension of a suitable length--do it all the time. Torquing with an extension is equal to wrench setting but with a crows foot or similar offset tool in place it will differ from wrench setting except in the 90 degree position. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/17/99)
Date: Nov 21, 1999
>I'm awaiting inspection/signoff on an RV6A and don't want to placard the >fuel caps yet until I paint next spring. Is the engraving something >like, "100 lowlead only"? Here's what I put. I think it pretty much covers the bases: 100 LL AVGAS ONLY CAP. 19 GALLONS So far it's only marked on the tank with a felt pen (kind of fun having an unpainted plane -- you can do things like that.) I plan to have the caps engraved locally; there's a place here that will do it for $15/pr. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: Weight & Balance
Hi All, Did my weight and balance on my -8A this weekend. Weighed in at (what I think) a very light 1031lbs. Digital scales, calibrated just a couple days ago. The plane has an 0-320 D2A, Sensenich Fixed Pitch Aluminum. No vacuum pump or gyros, single com (Narco). We expected 1075 - 1100 and checked and double checked the scales with a known weight. Also did some slow speed taxi tests. The brakes are kinda grabby and noisy as all heck. I seem to remember reading something on the list about a break-in period for the brakes of about 10 hours. Is this correct? You can see some photos and link to a weight and balance spread sheet of my weight and balance on my website. Bill Pagan N565BW "The original RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
William, Wherefore art thou?? My suggestion. Start with half the lighting and see how it works out. Consider a work light on a tripod or roll around stand. Cy is right - if you are in cold climate and humble hangar is unheated (tho it sounds like it might air conditioned and carpeted!) the florescents may not start. They do make them that will. We had eight footers on the front of the Honda shop and they worked all the time in Manhattan, KS. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A slider canopy frame alignment
Don, I took Orandorff's idea and welded small tabs about 2" apart to the frame. You can then adjust the tabs and bring in the skirts to the exact postion you want. In addition it really beefs up the side skirts so they are much stronger. Since I am not a welder, I had a local machine shop put them on for me. Turned out fine. Yes the rear should be higher and it will probably take a few tries to get a nice rear skirt you are happy with. Good Luck, Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost there, Fresno, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
I actually cut my emp fairing in half, removed a 1" section at the front of it, then fit each side independant of one another. I also had to remove part of the fairing over the horizontal stabilizer, just make sure you leave enough to drill and fit the nut plates to the horizontal stabilizer. Once each side was fit properly, I then fiberglassed the two pieces back together. A lot of work, but my fairing was not even close as supplied. Bob Claypool , Fresno, CA finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Probably had the expensive Hi Output with contact in a oval instead of the single button. You can also get low temp ballasts that will start at 20 below but instead of drawing 75 watts, they run about 110 watts and cost about 4 times as much according to my WW Grainger catalog. Hi Output bulbs cost more as well. Since I looked in my Grainger, it has tables for recommended Foot Candles and number of lights to do the job. The strip light you find at Home Depot type stores should be checked for starting temps. Even then a few 500 watt halogen lights at less than $10 is much cheaper to start than the fluorescents with their $10 bulbs. I have two 500 watters and a tripod light in my hanger, But it is small 40 by 30. An I use drop cords and lights which you have to do to light up the work areas inside cabin or cowl. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 8:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > >William, > >Wherefore art thou?? > >My suggestion. Start with half the lighting and see how it works >out. Consider a work light on a tripod or roll around stand. > >Cy is right - if you are in cold climate and humble hangar is unheated (tho >it sounds like it might air conditioned and carpeted!) the florescents may >not start. They do make them that will. We had eight footers on the front >of the Honda shop and they worked all the time in Manhattan, KS. > > >Hal Kempthorne - SJC >RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 >Debonair N6134V for sale > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: landing gear camber
Date: Nov 21, 1999
For you -6A builders that have your wings on: My gear seems to have a camber on it when the fuse is on the gear. I know it is supposed to have a camber to it when it is jacked up, but it appears to be slightly evident even when the weight is on it. My question is, when I mount my wings, will the gear "flatten" out so that the wheels sit square on the ground? Thanks.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: Fairing question at the empenage
Hello evrybody, My question is simple. On the small fairing that we make for the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer it is very difficult to get a real tight fit. While mine is probably 90% in touch with the bottom of the stabilizer I do have a couple minor gaps of 1/16" or so. Does anybody out there put a small silicon bead there to completly seal it or is this type of fit with a couple minor bo bos OK? Also the plans show that faring ending an inch or two ahead of the fiberglass fairing on the top yet Orandorff says in his tape to go under the fiberglass. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved), finishing up ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: landing gear camber
Date: Nov 21, 1999
> For you -6A builders that have your wings on: > > My gear seems to have a camber on it when the fuse is on the gear. I know > it is supposed to have a camber to it when it is jacked up, but it appears > to be slightly evident even when the weight is on it. My question is, when > I mount my wings, will the gear "flatten" out so that the wheels sit square > on the ground? > > Thanks.. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona Paul, any additional weight will help some, but try rolling the plane forwards and backwards a few inches, allowing the tires to "scrub" outward. If you just let it down on the tires without any rolling, they are still trying to move outwards. Another way to is to heave one outwards with your hands. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net>
Subject: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south of Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry time for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real advantages to either? Already better than gravel. David Deffner F1 Rocket N212TR gettin' the shop ready ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: -6A ease of entry, cockpit improvements
After over 450 hours of flying I have made changes to my plane that others may be interested in. You are right in that it can feel like lifting yourself out of a bathtub without using your legs, especially after a long day. I have electric flaps and using an extra channel, the one the servo bolts to, I made an armrest (simply a horizontal piece attached to a vertical piece) attaching it with a bit of piano hinge and it is remarkably rigid. Off the vertical portion I have the 12V cig. socket for my GPS and the plug for the Nav-Aid/GPS cable. I also built an extension to the seat pans which cover the exposed part of the spar plus another 1 1/2" forward. I angled the forward 1 1/2" of it up 20 degrees and covered it with 3M non-skid rubber. It shares screws with the seat pan/rib top and the forward edge has a "leg" that rests on the main gear leg socket (-6a only) and fuel selector valve "table" top. This angled portion gives you a good surface to catch your heel and lift/push yourself out, while not having to step on the upholstery. On the passenger side I found a 5" cabinet pull which I mounted directly over the panel support rib(tip-up). This can be pulled on without damaging the panel. I have, despite being 6'3" tall, cut my seat backs down to match the channel and eliminated all the adjustment stuff.(this is MY plane!) I find it more comfortable when sliding up and down the seat back getting in and out, not to mention access to luggage while in flight. I realized that my left arm was supported with about 1 square inch of foam on the stock armrest. I made new ones that support a much greater portion of my arm (hey, it gets sore constantly holding altitude while the GPS/Nav-Aid steers!). I mounted them with Velcro, which works well. I will also mention that you should check where your seat belts wrap around the seat back. I cut one set those V-shaped corrigations at a 45 degree so they didn't poke into the seat belts. kevin -6a KTTD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: NOW THIS REALLY PROVES IT!
Okay now if you EVER had any doubt about getting information from the list, look at the response I got off list to my last post. Al, you're right. Last Friday 11/19/1999 was an Odd day (all digits odd) and that the next odd day will be 1/1/3111. However, we don't have to wait that long for the next Even day which will be on 2/2/2000, the first time since 8/28/888. Howard Now where else would you get this ADDITIONAL information whithout even asking. Here 2/2/2000 was just a couple of months away sneaking up on me and it probably would have just blown on by without even being noticed for how special it is if it wasn't for the RV-List and member Howard Walrath. I hope there is someone around near 1/1/3111 for List members so they don't miss it too! Maybe by then they will have an alternative engine that really works for their RV's. You have to know that the Lycoming will still be available! Heck they'll have over a thousand years to work out the bugs of an auto conversion. Anyway I digress.........we are talking about the here and now. And HERE it is November 21st and NOW is the time to make your VOLUNTARY contribution to the RV-List fund raiser. Time is running out and you certainly want your name on the List Of Contributors (LOC) in a few weeks. It's really easy, secure, and painless so just get out your credit card or write that check and mail it today. AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Subject: For Sale
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
I have the following items for sale. These came off a Lycoming O360-A1F6D with 869 hours since new. Please respond off list to my E-mail address below or phone (914) 227-8527 Prop Governor - McCaulley Model C290D 3 B /T12 $400.00 Carbureter - Marvel Schebler Model MA-4-5 $800.00 Alternator - Model C611501-0102 $ 90.00 Starter - Prestolite Part No MZ 4218 8J000472 12V $150.00 Fuel Pump - AC 230R 40295 $ 75.00 Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 21, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 5:36 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought Bill, My hanger is 32' x 40' and I just have 6 150 watt light bulbs in it. It is not ideal but it is adequate. Ceiling is 14' high at front and 12' at back. My neighbour with same hanger size ( all sheeted and painted white inside , which helps) has 8 flourescent fixtures 8' long. They are the high output variety which are designed to work in cold weather. If you are friendly with your local supermarket manager you can likely buy the tubes from him. They use them in their refrigerated display cases ( dairy and frozen foods) If you know him real well you might get them for cost or cost plus 10. ( I used to be a supermarket manager) This setup light wise is about perfect in my opinion and one day when I get more ambition I may paint the inside of my hanger and install similiar fixtures. regards Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept.8, 1993 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net>
Subject: Rivets
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Riveting the aileron gap seal on and according to the George tapes it calls for a MK319 rivet which does not show up on any inventory is it called out by another number? I did find a couple of others that would fit counter sunk style in the 40 holes but not enough of them. regards Mike Comeaux ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Contribution / Donation
Date: Nov 21, 1999
Items for sale w/ proceeds to help maintain Matronics websites. Offers should be directed to: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Upon receipt of donation amount, items will be shipped. No reasonable offer refused! Unreasonable ones considered! This will be a one-time posting. NEW: Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped. Aero Instruments #5814-2 Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v. Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7 USED: Narco Transponder AT5-A Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500 King KS-505 power supply modulator RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-6A empanage fairing woes
Date: Nov 22, 1999
After working on it again last night, I think that cutting it in half is better than cutting off the front. If I were to do it over again, this is the way I would do it. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A details -----Original Message----- I actually cut my emp fairing in half, removed a 1" section at the front of it, then fit each side independant of one another. I also had to remove part of the fairing over the horizontal stabilizer, just make sure you leave enough to drill and fit the nut plates to the horizontal stabilizer. Once each side was fit properly, I then fiberglassed the two pieces back together. A lot of work, but my fairing was not even close as supplied. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
Date: Nov 21, 1999
A W&B list is a GOOD idea for any aircraft. Try to collect from a insurance company who claims you made changes. A equipment list adds credability to your claim. It also adds professionalism without cost. Many aircraft and pilots die from lack of professionalism, few from too much. If you go through the work of listing equipment and it's location it will make changes easier to compute without reweigh. An equipment list should have everything but the base airframe ( structure ) and base engine ( not including accessories ). -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 9:37 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Equipment List for certification > >> >>The FAA sent a equipment list to be associated with the weight and balance. >>I have not been able to find a description of the required items for this >>list. I have asked a few fellows and most have said anything that "IS" >>removable. Others have said, "CAN be removed". That leaves a lot area to >>wonder, in my thinking. > > Take a peek at the W/B report for a certified single. At > the top, you find the basic empty weight of the airplane > listed. Below, you find all of the items added on that > are generally optional with the manufacturer. Certainly thhings > like radios, antenna installations, autopilots, etc. are on > that list. > >>Is this radios and instruments that could be removed and still fly the >>airplane legally in some airspace? Or is there more things that must be >>listed, such engine type? > > If you've been asked to fill out such a document for > the FAA on an experimental airplane, the individual > asking for it has their head where the sun don't shine. > > Amateur built aircraft do not have cast-iron W/B envelopes > which the pilot is legally required to observe. Certainly > as a matter of practical sense, you DO want to observe the > manufacturer's recommendations for W/B limits but the > FAA has no requlatory interest in that. > > Now, the guy many simply be interested in prompting you to > do your homework all in the name of public safety. > So like all careful builders, you DO plan to weigh your > airplane and make modifications as needed to insure > comfortable operability of the machine. I'd simply > do the weight measurements you planed to do anyhow and > humor the guy by filling in the form with one line > describing the w/b for your airplane "as equipped." > and be done with it. > > However, I wouldn't sign the form nor allow anyone else > to put their name on it either. Doing so would only > lend your tacit acceptance to something that should > not become standard practice. Let's not encourage > them. Enter the numbers in the ship's logbook as reference > information. > > Bob . . . > > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== > < Independence Kansas: the > > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > > < Your source for brand new > > < 40 year old airplanes. > > ================================ > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
> >Denny, >If you give me a fax # for you I can fax you a copy of an equipment list. >**** Bryan E. Files **** >Ever Fly Maintenance >Palmer, Alaska >A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor >mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net Thanks for the offer, Bryan. I would sure like to have that, but I can't seem to get my fax working on my machine. I haven't had this computer very long and can't seem to find it in the many things that are on this machine. My old one was slow, but I understood it. When I get time I will figure it out....I hope! Have a good one! Denny Harjehausen RV-6 N641DH Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
> > > My DAR was pretty casual about it -- he told me "just put on there what you > think should be on there". Other inspectors might be more strict, I'd > suggest asking your FSDO, that way you won't get a rude surprise. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > > My FAA inspector didn't ask for an equipment list, just a weight and balance > sheet. Carroll Bird > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: THIS JUST IN FROM AVWEB.
WHEN "VOLUNTARY" MEANS "MANDATORY": A Y2K TALE After NBC's fear-mongering planes-falling-out-of-the-sky Y2K movie Sunday night, you didn't think we could resist a Y2K story, did you? Unlike the movie, however, this little Y2K tale really is happening. AVweb first reported in October that a "voluntary" FAA survey on Y2K- readiness sent to FAA certificate holders had become "mandatory," with the names of the non-respondents published in the Congressional Record for all to see. The initial non-respondents, mostly small Part 135 and cargo carriers, were given until November 1 to reply or risk being grounded. The National Air Transportation Association (NATA) says responses are coming in quickly, and as of last week, only 250 of the 3,300 requests were still out. NATA says this proves its members are committed to being Y2K-compliant. One might also say the members are committed to any Senate mandate -- no matter how ridiculous -- if that's what it takes to keep flying. Now I really hate to be like the FAA in this VOLUNTARY really means MANDATORY thing but a you do what you have to do to insure the success of a fund drive. We are making up for lost time in that I have been informed that the donations have increased in the last week or so. I guess I am being heard out there and you guys really do care.......Don't be left out, contribute today! AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Rivets
Mike Comeaux wrote: > > Riveting the aileron gap seal on and according to the George tapes > it calls for a MK319 rivet which does not show up on any inventory > is it called out by another number? I did find a couple of others that > would fit counter sunk style in the 40 holes but not enough of them. > > regards Mike Comeaux Van's sell them. Last I bought they were 11 cents apeice. You have to use a #33 bit for them. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
We're in the process of building some hangers here in Nashville and I have been pondering the lighting issue. Flourescents or other. The other I like is the metal halide variety. You see these in the home depot and lowes and I guess football and basketball arenas. I also have been seeing these at upgraded gas/food marts around super bright. A blue/white light and I think they are pretty reasonable cost wise. I am thinking about letting one of the lighting companies draw up a plan for me based on the dimensions of my hanger area. it seems to me like six maybe eight lights and a light colored floor would make it look like a showroom display area at a carmax. I'll let you know in a week or two what I find out costwise. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org> >To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'" >Subject: RE: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 6:08 AM > > I just finished a hanger and I used sodium vapor lights. They work much > better than the florescent that other people at the airport are using. Cost > a little more but if you look ahead the cost of owning them will be less > and less maintenance too. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: For Sale
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
I could be interested in the prop governor. I'll have to check and make sure it'll work for me. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: For Sale >Date: Sun, Nov 21, 1999, 10:19 PM > > Prop Governor - McCaulley Model C290D 3 B /T12 > $400.00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: antenna
>> What is the latest thoughts on using the foil dipole antenna from S-H? >> I already have it and want to use it. Also what is the best choice for >> other antenna locations? Nav, transponder, marker beacon, elt? There >> are more 'Star's out there flying now so we should have some definitive >> answers from real world experiences. All help would be appreciated since >> I am bonding the fuselage and this is an integral part of the job if you >> want ot conceal the antenna. Real world perspectives on amateur built antenna installations run the gamut from (a) doesn't work worth a @#$@#! to (b) works really fine! Never have I seen engineering test data to compare a new antenna with an old one. Go ahead and install any and all antennas you might like to try. If they're inside, there's little harm done if you decide your experiment falls into the !@#$@#$! category. At the worst, you'll replace them with time honored whiskers sticking out everywhere. Odds are in your favor that they WILL perform adequately to you task. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Vertical card compass
The vertical card compass in N191XC does not tolerate being in the panel, though I was lead to believe it would. (It won't tolerate the vibration, nearby T and B and unshielded wiring) It is modification time- I will try the compass above the glareshield and put an G meter in the panel, just to see what I have been pulling. BTW, I do all my course tracking off the Apollo 360 display (like a digital DG) And I do keep a sectional in my lap, just in case. Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY N191XC http://www.vcn.com/~charliet ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine??
Hi Glen and All, I am in the process of installing the oil pressure fitting on my engine and just wonder if the AN-823 45 degrees aluminum fitting be adequate or it really needs a steel/brass fitting? T.Nguyen RV-6A Engine Installation >>> Glenn & Judi 11/19/99 04:28PM >>> Hal, I put a 45 degree AN 823-4D into the port next to the vacuum pump. To do this you will need a 7/16" Crowsfoot to tighten it. If the vacuum pump is already installed, it will be in the way. In fact, I had to remove the vacuum pump standoff pad as well as one of the studs to get the fitting in there. Make sure you remove the stud properly with two nuts (jammed together on the stud) to remove the stud. Another option that Scott at Van's gave me utilized the oil pressure fitting next to the motor mount. It involved using a Weatherhead brass 45 degree Street Elbow. AC spruce #3350x2. I went with the first method. A word of caution. These two ports are the only two on the engine that the Lycoming rep said were acceptable places to measure "Regulated oil pressure". Hope this helps, Glenn Gordon Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on > before mounting the engine. Figgers! > > I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple > will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final argument > for electric gyros? > > hal > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine??
Date: Nov 22, 1999
There are a number of posts covering this topic in the archives. I think what you'll find are comments from people passionate on both sides. Some (I for example) have used only steel fittings where a hose fitting will be attached. Others can state examples of using aluminum fittings successfully for many years. I can't state specific scientific rationale, but I feel better having steel fittings for all my hose attach points in order to handle the vibration loads that the hose transfers. The small weight difference for me, is a small price to pay for the added safety. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "Painting" -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 11:01 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? > >Hi Glen and All, > >I am in the process of installing the oil pressure fitting on my engine and just wonder if the AN-823 45 degrees aluminum fitting be adequate or it really needs a steel/brass fitting? > >T.Nguyen >RV-6A Engine Installation > >>>> Glenn & Judi 11/19/99 04:28PM >>> > >Hal, >I put a 45 degree AN 823-4D into the port next to the vacuum pump. To do this >you will need a 7/16" Crowsfoot to tighten it. If the vacuum pump is already >installed, it will be in the way. In fact, I had to remove the vacuum pump >standoff pad as well as one of the studs to get the fitting in there. Make >sure you remove the stud properly with two nuts (jammed together on the stud) >to remove the stud. > >Another option that Scott at Van's gave me utilized the oil pressure fitting >next to the motor mount. It involved using a Weatherhead brass 45 degree >Street Elbow. AC spruce #3350x2. > >I went with the first method. > >A word of caution. These two ports are the only two on the engine that the >Lycoming rep said were acceptable places to measure "Regulated oil pressure". > >Hope this helps, >Glenn Gordon > >Hal Kempthorne wrote: > >> >> Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on >> before mounting the engine. Figgers! >> >> I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple >> will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final argument >> for electric gyros? >> >> hal >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
I have been looking at Air-tech 'hard deck' coating and the instructions say the cure time is thirty days. They go on to say to put paper down under tires until it cures - supposedly the tire have something that reacts. I would contact Air-tech they sell paint for planes too and advertise in the TOP. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 9:33 AM > > I'm guessing that you are confused about the drying time. The 30-45 days > for drying is not for the paint/stain but for the concrete slab. The > concrete needs 28 days to cure in order to get 100% of it's strength. If > it is topcoated before this time the moisture won't be able to escape and > you could get a weak floor or warping/cracking of the concrete. > > Always wait the full 28 days before working with normal concrete. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine??
Date: Nov 22, 1999
There is an AD for the prop governor line to change it out to a steel line with steel fittings. I would think that this would be a good indicator to use a steel fitting for the gage as well but may be the on-off of the prop governor line created a pulsing that broke the aluminum line and aluminum fittings. Don't forget to put a restrictor in the fitting to slow the loss of oil if the line or gage breaks. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:01 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? > >Hi Glen and All, > >I am in the process of installing the oil pressure fitting on my engine and just wonder if the AN-823 45 degrees aluminum fitting be adequate or it really needs a steel/brass fitting? > >T.Nguyen >RV-6A Engine Installation > >>>> Glenn & Judi 11/19/99 04:28PM >>> > >Hal, >I put a 45 degree AN 823-4D into the port next to the vacuum pump. To do this >you will need a 7/16" Crowsfoot to tighten it. If the vacuum pump is already >installed, it will be in the way. In fact, I had to remove the vacuum pump >standoff pad as well as one of the studs to get the fitting in there. Make >sure you remove the stud properly with two nuts (jammed together on the stud) >to remove the stud. > >Another option that Scott at Van's gave me utilized the oil pressure fitting >next to the motor mount. It involved using a Weatherhead brass 45 degree >Street Elbow. AC spruce #3350x2. > >I went with the first method. > >A word of caution. These two ports are the only two on the engine that the >Lycoming rep said were acceptable places to measure "Regulated oil pressure". > >Hope this helps, >Glenn Gordon > >Hal Kempthorne wrote: > >> >> Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on >> before mounting the engine. Figgers! >> >> I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple >> will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final argument >> for electric gyros? >> >> hal >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine??
I see many aluminum fittings on my new Lycoming engine! hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest:
11/17/99) Works for me.....but then again.....I'm not the one inspecting your aircraft. Good Luck!! Mike Robertson RV-8A QB 80% done and 51% to go "Das Fed" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure hose attach to engine??
Date: Nov 22, 1999
I forgot to list the application. It was on a Cessna Cardinal. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:47 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? > >There is an AD for the prop governor line to change it out to a steel line >with steel fittings. I would think that this would be a good indicator to >use a steel fitting for the gage as well but may be the on-off of the prop >governor line created a pulsing that broke the aluminum line and aluminum >fittings. Don't forget to put a restrictor in the fitting to slow the loss >of oil if the line or gage breaks. > >Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> >To: RV-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:01 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure hose attach to engine?? > > > >> >>Hi Glen and All, >> >>I am in the process of installing the oil pressure fitting on my engine and >just wonder if the AN-823 45 degrees aluminum fitting be adequate or it >really needs a steel/brass fitting? >> >>T.Nguyen >>RV-6A Engine Installation >> >>>>> Glenn & Judi 11/19/99 04:28PM >>> >> >>Hal, >>I put a 45 degree AN 823-4D into the port next to the vacuum pump. To do >this >>you will need a 7/16" Crowsfoot to tighten it. If the vacuum pump is >already >>installed, it will be in the way. In fact, I had to remove the vacuum pump >>standoff pad as well as one of the studs to get the fitting in there. Make >>sure you remove the stud properly with two nuts (jammed together on the >stud) >>to remove the stud. >> >>Another option that Scott at Van's gave me utilized the oil pressure >fitting >>next to the motor mount. It involved using a Weatherhead brass 45 degree >>Street Elbow. AC spruce #3350x2. >> >>I went with the first method. >> >>A word of caution. These two ports are the only two on the engine that the >>Lycoming rep said were acceptable places to measure "Regulated oil >pressure". >> >>Hope this helps, >>Glenn Gordon >> >>Hal Kempthorne wrote: >> >>> >>> Neighbor stops by. Says I should have put the oil pressure elbow on >>> before mounting the engine. Figgers! >>> >>> I will not be removing the engine!!! Looks to me like a straight nipple >>> will fit in there or will vacuum pump interfere? Is this my final >argument >>> for electric gyros? >>> >>> hal >>> >>> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Altimeter/encoder
Denny, Your question requires that we look at three things in the FARs. First look at FAR 91.215 that states that ALL AIRCRAFT operating in certain airspace (A,B, and C) must have the transponder and encoder and they must be operating. If you are not going to be operating in any of those then you don't have to have a transponder or encoder. Then go to FAR 91.411 which states that the encoder must only be tested if you plan on going IFR and then must be tested every 24 months. There is a little loop hole here in that the date of manufacture for a TSO'd encoder can be used as the tested date. Then, lastly, we need to look at FAR 91.413 that states that no person can use a transponder in the airspace listed in 91.215 unless that equipment has been tested. So.....if you are not going to fly IFR or in Class A, B, or C airspace then you don't have to get the the transponder and encoder tested. Before this month I would have said that for your test flight period this would not be a problem as that would not happen, but the new Order 8130.2D has made it possible to fly into and out of Class B and C airspace during the test flight period under certain circumstances, including the initial flight. If you are not flying in any of those airspaces during the test flight tell your inspector that and that you plan on getting the testing done when the test flight period is over. Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Shelby, You will not be dissapointed with the metal halide lights. I have 15 of them in my shop at 20 feet in the air and I love them. They do not burn orange. With the white painted floor and the walls the place is lit up beautifully. **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 6:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > > We're in the process of building some hangers here in Nashville and I have > been pondering the lighting issue. Flourescents or other. The other I like > is the metal halide variety. You see these in the home depot and lowes and I > guess football and basketball arenas. I also have been seeing these at > upgraded gas/food marts around super bright. A blue/white light and I think > they are pretty reasonable cost wise. > > I am thinking about letting one of the lighting companies draw up a plan for > me based on the dimensions of my hanger area. it seems to me like six maybe > eight lights and a light colored floor would make it look like a showroom > display area at a carmax. > > I'll let you know in a week or two what I find out costwise. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: jrdial <jrdial@hal-pc.org> > >To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'" > >Subject: RE: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 6:08 AM > > > > > I just finished a hanger and I used sodium vapor lights. They work > much > > better than the florescent that other people at the airport are using. Cost > > a little more but if you look ahead the cost of owning them will be less > > and less maintenance too. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Shelby, With the 30" Airstreak tires or Alaskan Bush Wheels 31" I still have problems with them marking the white epoxy paint. I think it depends on what type of rubber is in the tires. **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 7:25 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > > I have been looking at Air-tech 'hard deck' coating and the instructions say > the cure time is thirty days. They go on to say to put paper down under > tires until it cures - supposedly the tire have something that reacts. I > would contact Air-tech they sell paint for planes too and advertise in the > TOP. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 9:33 AM > > > > > I'm guessing that you are confused about the drying time. The 30-45 days > > for drying is not for the paint/stain but for the concrete slab. The > > concrete needs 28 days to cure in order to get 100% of it's strength. If > > it is topcoated before this time the moisture won't be able to escape and > > you could get a weak floor or warping/cracking of the concrete. > > > > Always wait the full 28 days before working with normal concrete. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Mid-air
Date: Nov 22, 1999
The tragedy that Buster is referring to is the midair that happened over the weekend just east of Vancouver B.C. It now seems official that it was a Cessna ( I believe a 172) and a Erocoupe the TSB say it was virtually a head on with two people in each aircraft. It was right at sunset and as we all know one of the most difficult lighting conditions. Lets all be careful and stay on that radio. Eustace Bowhay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Ordered RV-9 kit
Date: Nov 22, 1999
After over a year lurking in the list, just sent my checks to Van' for RV-9 empannage kit. Anyone else in RTP area building a nine? John HArris Cary, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Subject: Oil pressure hose fittings
Date: Nov 22, 1999
I have seen two incidents of forced landings caused by oil line fitting failure. One resulting in the total loss of a aircraft and the other destroying the engine. I use steel fittings, not only on the back of the engine but on the oil cooler as well. I am uncomfortable with aluminum especially on a number 8 line with the additional weight and vibration. In a situation were you are tight but still need another half turn or so that's when the steel fitting really pays off. Just my thoughts Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for builders in Sacramento, CA area
I'm not a great riveter but someone in your EAA local chapter probably is. I'd welcome company, assistance, show you what I know tho. I am working at hangar H13 at Stockton. I'm not there every day. Sometimes I remember my cell phone 408.230.0891 Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 22, 1999
You can get "cold start" flour.fixtures at additional cost, They are available ----- Original Message ----- From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 1999 8:15 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > > William, > > Wherefore art thou?? > > My suggestion. Start with half the lighting and see how it works > out. Consider a work light on a tripod or roll around stand. > > Cy is right - if you are in cold climate and humble hangar is unheated (tho > it sounds like it might air conditioned and carpeted!) the florescents may > not start. They do make them that will. We had eight footers on the front > of the Honda shop and they worked all the time in Manhattan, KS. > > > Hal Kempthorne - SJC > RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 > Debonair N6134V for sale > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection
Date: Nov 22, 1999
I have finally rigged my ailerons, obtaining 26 degrees up and 13 degrees down; Van's minimum deflection is 22 up, 15 down. My bellcrank hits the vertical angle if I go for more deflection. (Yes, it is installed properly.) My NavAid Devices autopilot is installed on the floor per instructions with the supplied angle bracket attached to the right stick bottom. With the A/P pushrod in the maximum radius hole on the actuator arm, the autopilot stops limit aileron deflection to 17 degrees up and 10 degrees down. My questions to those with the A/P mounted on the floorboards: 1) What aileron deflections do you have? 2) If you obtained full deflection with the supplied arm and stick attach bracket, HOW ON EARTH did you accomplish that? Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit, very puzzled in Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: str(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Ordered RV-9 kit
John, Congrats on ordering a RV. Why did you decide on a -9 over a -6? Sam Ray >After over a year lurking in the list, just sent my checks to Van' for RV-9 >empannage kit. >Anyone else in RTP area building a nine? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 22, 1999
but incredibly expensive ----- Original Message ----- From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:25 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > > I have been looking at Air-tech 'hard deck' coating and the instructions say > the cure time is thirty days. They go on to say to put paper down under > tires until it cures - supposedly the tire have something that reacts. I > would contact Air-tech they sell paint for planes too and advertise in the > TOP. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 9:33 AM > > > > > I'm guessing that you are confused about the drying time. The 30-45 days > > for drying is not for the paint/stain but for the concrete slab. The > > concrete needs 28 days to cure in order to get 100% of it's strength. If > > it is topcoated before this time the moisture won't be able to escape and > > you could get a weak floor or warping/cracking of the concrete. > > > > Always wait the full 28 days before working with normal concrete. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical card compass
Thanks for the reply, Charlie. I was hoping you had found the magic bullet for a successful panel mounting of a vertical card compass....I guess there is a reason for the real floppy mounting brackets that come with the things. :-) I likewise use the GPS for heading info. I have the electronic compass module for the RMI uEncoder but hardly ever use it. Yep, sectionals will nearly always save the day. Too bad reading them is becoming a lost art! Enjoy your new toy! Sam ---------------------------- Charlie Tyrrel wrote: > > > The vertical card compass in N191XC does not tolerate being in the panel, > though I was lead to believe it would. (It won't tolerate the vibration, > nearby T and B and unshielded wiring) It is modification time- I will try > the compass above the glareshield and put an G meter in the panel, just to > see what I have been pulling. BTW, I do all my course tracking off the > Apollo 360 display (like a digital DG) And I do keep a sectional in my lap, > just in case. > Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY N191XC > > http://www.vcn.com/~charliet > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection
Date: Nov 22, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 12:47 PM Subject: RV-List: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection > >I have finally rigged my ailerons, obtaining 26 degrees up and 13 degrees >down; Van's minimum deflection is 22 up, 15 down. My bellcrank hits the >vertical angle if I go for more deflection. (Yes, it is installed properly.) > >My NavAid Devices autopilot is installed on the floor per instructions with >the supplied angle bracket attached to the right stick bottom. With the A/P >pushrod in the maximum radius hole on the actuator arm, the autopilot stops >limit aileron deflection to 17 degrees up and 10 degrees down. My questions >to those with the A/P mounted on the floorboards: >1) What aileron deflections do you have? >2) If you obtained full deflection with the supplied arm and stick attach >bracket, HOW ON EARTH did you accomplish that? > >Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit, very puzzled in >Hampshire, IL C38 > More data from Dennis: The chord length of the passenger stick arc segment at full stop deflection at the radius of the NavAid bracket is 3.6 inches; the measured chord length at the NavAid crank arm at radius of 1.6 inches is 2.6 inches -- NavAid (p4, Table 1, calls it Max Travel peak-to-peak) specs is 2.4 inches. So I come up one inch short! Sooooo, how did you guys get full throw? It seems as though the NavAid crank arm needs a lot bigger radius. Dennis Persyk more puzzled yet ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 site
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Randy, My name is Bill Christie. I live in the Phoenix area and am building an 8A. Your battery application looks quite good and I had planned to put the battery in the same area, mainly because of the heat factor here. I was also planning to place a UL 94V0 rated insulation on the firewall to minimize heat coming from the engine compartment. Your bracket look good. Have you done any load calculations for the structure? Bill Christie, RV-8A, Ailerons. ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Lervold <randyl(at)pacifier.com> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:50 AM Subject: RV-List: New RV-8 site > > Listers, > > Just wanted to let the RV-8ers among you know that my web site is finally > up. As with all of our sites it is a work in progress, I will continue to > evolve it. Due to the number of excellent sites that document the entire > building process, I have chosen to focus not on the whole building process, > but rather on anything I'm doing that is different or special in some way. > For example my battery installation is a bit creative and might be of > interest to RV-8 builders trying to decide between fwd and aft locations. > > You can check it out at... > > www.pacifier.com/~randyl > > Cheers, > Randy Lervold > RV-8, #80500, mounting wings > Home Wing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Fuel supply system
The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over 2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions please. He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? Dale Ensing 6A finishing stuff Cary, Illinois ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel sender alignment
From your question I think you do not have the sender unit yet. I got the units from Van's and you Have to bend them in order to make them work. Van's includes a little drawing with the dimensions and all, so if you need to furhter bend your's then I would think that it should not be a problem. Mike Robertson 'RV-8A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection
Date: Nov 22, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 1:41 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> >To: rv-list >Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 12:47 PM >Subject: RV-List: NavAid A/P Contol Deflection > > >> >>I have finally rigged my ailerons, obtaining 26 degrees up and 13 degrees >>down; Van's minimum deflection is 22 up, 15 down. My bellcrank hits the >>vertical angle if I go for more deflection. (Yes, it is installed >properly.) >> >>My NavAid Devices autopilot is installed on the floor per instructions with >>the supplied angle bracket attached to the right stick bottom. With the >A/P >>pushrod in the maximum radius hole on the actuator arm, the autopilot stops >>limit aileron deflection to 17 degrees up and 10 degrees down. My >questions >>to those with the A/P mounted on the floorboards: >>1) What aileron deflections do you have? >>2) If you obtained full deflection with the supplied arm and stick attach >>bracket, HOW ON EARTH did you accomplish that? >> >>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit, very puzzled in >>Hampshire, IL C38 >> >More data from Dennis: >The chord length of the passenger stick arc segment at full stop deflection >at the radius of the NavAid bracket is 3.6 inches; the measured chord length >at the NavAid crank arm at radius of 1.6 inches is 2.6 inches -- NavAid (p4, >Table 1, calls it Max Travel peak-to-peak) specs is 2.4 inches. So I come >up one inch short! Sooooo, how did you guys get full throw? It seems as >though the NavAid crank arm needs a lot bigger radius. > >Dennis Persyk more puzzled yet > Mystery solved! I had the NaVAid bracket on upside down! This caused the radius of gyration at the lower stick to increase by 1.3 inches, and hence I didn't have enough travel. Duhhhhhh. Dennis Persyk onto next puzzle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: Fuel supply system
Date: Nov 22, 1999
I think you need to find a new TC, if he is insisting on something like that. How many certified airplanes have two fuel pumps in addition to the engine-driven pump? The main intentions of most aircraft designers in regard to boost pumps are that they are to be used during takeoff and landing to supplement the engine driven pump in case of failure of either. Most of the airplanes I've flown (low wing) have a boost pump that is only required during takeoff and landing, and are to be shut off in cruise. Thanks! Bob Japundza Dow AgroSciences Information Management EnterpriseWise IT Consulting 317-337-5348 -----Original Message----- From: DWENSING(at)aol.com [mailto:DWENSING(at)aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 3:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel supply system The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over 2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions please. He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? Dale Ensing 6A finishing stuff Cary, Illinois ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
From: Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com>
> snip... > Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? IMO I would not change the RV fuel system without very good reason and a tech counselor's recommendation would not be a good reason for me. I've never heard of a problem and it works fine in my RV-6 even when I forget to turn the boost pump on for aerobatics. This IMPORTANT system is simple (good) and works well in a lot of airplanes (good). If it ain't broke... Bob Hall RV-6, Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
Dale, I'd find a new tech counselor. This guy sounds like he isn't running on all cylinders. Did you ask him to justify his recommendation? What other aircraft have his "recommended" system? What are the advantages of his system? Off the top of my head, I can think of a few major problems with his "system": If the check valve portion of the pump that is "off" were to fail, one tank MAY feed into the other tank and starve the engine. During flight, you run one tank down to almost empty. You then switch to the other tank to complete the flight. Now if your electric pump were to fail, the engine driven pump would start to suck from both tanks and then start drawing air when the low tank emptied, resulting in a forced landing. His system had an on/off valve and no way to isolate one tank. Two pumps add weight. Van's system works and is patterned after many production aircraft. The fuel system is one of the last systems that a builder should change. There have been too many accidents in the homebuilt arena caused by builders who tried to "improve" the fuel system design. Please stay with Van's system. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying > >The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that >I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over >2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the >design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions >please. > >He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned >as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go >through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, >the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which >tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost >pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes >pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with >the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any >possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. >Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? >Dale Ensing >6A finishing stuff >Cary, Illinois > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Fred & Carolynn Hiatt <hiatt001(at)tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
David, We used sherwin williams 2-part epoxy floor paint (not cheap). We washed the floor with detergent, then acid etched it with muriatic acid, then rinsed it well. Applied the first coat then applied the second coat the next day. Really tough finish. Don't forget to add the roughener to the first coat or you will have a very slippery finish when wet. This is the third concrete floor that I have finished and I like it better than any other treatment. Fred David Deffner wrote: > > > Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I > start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south of > Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry time > for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real > advantages to either? Already better than gravel. > David Deffner > F1 Rocket N212TR > gettin' the shop ready > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: N number reservation...
I have added a page to my site sighting how I reserved my N number. Also... I have also put the FAA form for requesting an N number reservation on the page for download... Go here: http://vondane.tripod.com/nnumber.htm Bill Von Dane RV-8A N912V (reserved), Elevators http://vondane.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
Date: Nov 22, 1999
My Bellanca 14-13-2 has been sucking fuel for over 50 years with the engine driven pump. There is a hand wobble boost pump for prime for starting and emergency use. The wobble pump is nothing more than another 37 Studebaker engine diaphragm pump with a handle extension. I use a valve to select the tank I want to use. People have replaced the hand wobble with an electric pump but what do they then do with an electrical failure? The kicker is that the engine pump produced too much pressure and there were engine failures from flooding. So there is an AD and the mod was to put a pressure relief valve in the system. This had an added safety feature to circulate the fuel which reduces the possibility of vapor lock. Remember there are many planes flying without problems using Van's design. How many are flying using your tech Counselor's design? Remember that the qualification for tech counselor is either to have built and flown a homebuilt or be an A&P. Neither of these qualifies him as a designer or systems engineer. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh. -----Original Message----- From: DWENSING(at)aol.com <DWENSING(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel supply system > >The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that >I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over >2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the >design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions >please. > >He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned >as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go >through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, >the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which >tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost >pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes >pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with >the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any >possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. >Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? >Dale Ensing >6A finishing stuff >Cary, Illinois > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
Dale, You've already stated the best reason: build per Van's plans. Scott Gesele's post gave a good idea of what could go wrong with your tech counselor's ideas on the fuel system. The tech counselor program is a good one, IMO, but that doesn't mean they have all of the answers. Remember, they are volunteers and are not compensated. I assume most counselors become one to help fellow builders. Knowing this, it is hard to contradict them if they state something that you know, or suspect of being wrong. The best "out" for this? Mention something about insurance and building per plans. Or mention all of the posts that your post is bound to generate. I am a bit surprised that a tech counselor would recommend something that goes against the designer's plans, but, we're all individuals, I guess. Use all of the tech counselors, A&P & IA's, chapter members, etc. that you can to look over your project. Collect the good ideas and discard the rest. Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 >The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that >I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over >2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the >design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions >please. >Dale Ensing >6A finishing stuff >Cary, Illinois ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Spar Rivets
While inspecting my forward spars, I noticed what I perceive as a problem. It seems that there is some space between the spar web and the longest of the spar flange strips. There is enough space to slide a piece of paper between the two with not much friction. This only occurs between the spar web and the "longest" and "thinnest" spar flange strip. I removed the rivets from one side of the spar. I placed clamps just outboard of one of the rivet holes and checked with the paper before inserting a rivet. There was no gap. I then riveted the two together at that location. Upon removing the clamps, I could "still" slide that dang paper between the pieces down to the rivet. This makes no sense to me. Anybody have any ideas on this? It is interesting to me that where there are more strips stacked(more mass) I do not have this problem. One person suggested that because of the low amount of mass that I may need to clamp these pieces together with some pro-seal so they do not separate before the rivet is set. I thought that the clamps would accomplish this for me. By the way, I used a rivet gun and bucking bar to set the rivet. Jim Nice RV6A(Wings) WA State ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: More info on RV-9
I wish I could find out some more info on the RV9...it looks very interesting. Jim Arnold Jim, Check out Van's website for a very good description of the RV9 (or RV9A as they are now calling it). Also get a copy of the June 1999 issue of the EAA's Sport Aviation Magazine. They did a 12-page story on the RV-9, including an interview with Van and a Flying Qualities Report. Mark Schrimmer Beginning RV9A tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
For maximum strength, new concrete should be kept wet for the 28 day curing time. Spray it down often. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical card compass
Why don't you use the compass module? If you had to do it over again, would you still get the module option? Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > --- Sam Buchanan wrote: > > From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical card compass > > > > I likewise use the GPS for heading info. I have the electronic compass > > module for the RMI uEncoder but hardly ever use it. > > > > Sam ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Dave: I used the Sherwin-Williams stain on my floor in the color Bombay (light tan) and this stuff is great ! 1st etch with muric acid. 2) Apply 1 coat cut 50% with the special thinner from S&W .3) apply 2nd coat full strengh! I covered my 24x52 garage with 9 gal. You can poor oil on it and it just beads up!!! Tom (362CT Reserved) ---------- > From: David Deffner <deffner(at)glade.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 10:19 PM > > > Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I > start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south of > Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry time > for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real > advantages to either? Already better than gravel. > David Deffner > F1 Rocket N212TR > gettin' the shop ready > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: Spar Rivets
Try placing the shop head of the rivet on the spar web. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote: > > > The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that > I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over > 2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the > design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions > please. > > He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned > as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go > through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, > the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which > tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost > pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes > pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with > the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any > possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. > Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? > Dale Ensing > 6A finishing stuff > Cary, Illinois Ask him to prove that his design will function properly should you have electrical smoke and have to turn off the master switch, disabling both electric fuel pumps. He will then have to give you the reasons why Vans (and Piper) systems works ok! If my inspector insisted on a redesigned fuel system I guess I would want a letter from him stating that he would accept responsibility for any future liability claims arising due to a redesigned system. George McNutt Langley, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: nosewheel friction
Is there any harm possible from a nosewheel that has too much breakout force? I checked mine recently and it measured 36 lbs at the axle hole, versus the 22 lbs called for in the manual. I suppose the change from original setting could be from all the grit and grime built up in the fork area, although it seems they usually work looser, not tighter. Since I can easily maneuver the plane with a towbar when backing in, I see no compelling need to loosen the nut. Should I anyway? -Bill B RV-6A 80 hrs/18 mos. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
--- DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote: > > The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very > strongly advocating that > I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed > with him, citing over > 2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as > reason not to modify the > design. Told him I would put the question to the > RV-list. So, your opinions > please. > > He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and > right tanks positioned > as close as possible to the the tanks. From the > boost pump the fuel would go > through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator > and to the engine. However, > the selector valve would become only an on/off > valve. The selection of which > tank is being used would be made by energizing > either the left or right boost > pump which would run continously during normal > operations. He emphasizes > pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and > not just sucking it with > the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal > running to help prevent any > possible fuel starvation while there is fuel > remaining in the tanks. > Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? > Should I change it? > Dale Ensing > 6A finishing stuff > Cary, Illinois > > Dale: Please print out this message and give it to your Tech Counselor. How many RV's has he built and flown? As an EAA Tech Counselor ( # 3812) and FAA A & P, I have built and flown my RV-6 for over 460 hours in the last 26 months. I recommend that you DO NOT modify the fuel system. Build the fuel system per Van's plans. If the Tech Counselor has a problem with this, he should contact me through the EAA. According to EAA guidlines for Tech Counselor, we are NOT to approve design changes to aircraft. Design changes are between the builder and the designer. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Re: For Sale
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
The engine came out of a Cessna Cardinal, and the governor is gear driven from the rear accessory case. Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (fuselage now out of jig) writes: > > >I could be interested in the prop governor. I'll have to check and >make sure >it'll work for me. > > >-- >Shelby Smith >shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com >RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP >N95EB - reserved > >---------- >>From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RV-List: For Sale >>Date: Sun, Nov 21, 1999, 10:19 PM >> > >> Prop Governor - McCaulley Model C290D 3 B /T12 >> $400.00 > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net>
Subject: Elec.Trim RV6/8 brackets
Has anyone had their left and right brackets for the Mac 8 servo mislabeled? After reviewing the plans, it appears that the brackets that I have are reversed. Also the plans don't provide bracket measurements or mention the need to cut and trim the brackets. It looks to me that I need to cut these bracket to fit. Looking for advise. Thanks in advance. Ted Gauthier Blunist(at)flash.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
Dale, Your RV fuel system was designed by an ***ENGINEER*** and that does mean something. Ask your TC if he are one. (Yesterday I cuddent spel injunear and now I are one). Ask your TC if he feels like discussing his concept with another engineer, Van. Tell him you need to clear it with your insurance man (who will go ballistic!) Get a new..... hal (I are one!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel supply system
Dale, I would not deviate from Van's plans in this area. If there is any way to avoid pressurized lines in the cockpit I would do that. I would rather have my engine sucking air than pumping fuel into the cockpit if you have a line or connection problem in the cockpit. Just tell your TC that in this particular area he is just flat out wrong and you have to go with the plans. Don't be shy! AL > >The EAA Technical Counselor reviewing my 6A is very strongly advocating that >I change the fuel system in the 6A. I have disagreed with him, citing over >2000 RV's presently flying with Van's system as reason not to modify the >design. Told him I would put the question to the RV-list. So, your opinions >please. > >He wants an electric boost pump on both the left and right tanks positioned >as close as possible to the the tanks. From the boost pump the fuel would go >through the fuel selector valve to the gascolator and to the engine. However, >the selector valve would become only an on/off valve. The selection of which >tank is being used would be made by energizing either the left or right boost >pump which would run continously during normal operations. He emphasizes >pushing the fuel to the engine from each tank and not just sucking it with >the mechanical engine pump (O-360) during normal running to help prevent any >possible fuel starvation while there is fuel remaining in the tanks. >Does anybody know of problems with Van's design? Should I change it? >Dale Ensing >6A finishing stuff >Cary, Illinois > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 22, 1999
> Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I > start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south of > Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry time > for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real > advantages to either? Already better than gravel. Paint is the easiest to keep clean. Oil spills wipe right up. I would do a white to reflect light. It will make a difference in the brightness of your shop. Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Spar Rivets
Date: Nov 22, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: JNice51355(at)aol.com <JNice51355(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 6:07 PM Subject: RV-List: Spar Rivets > >While inspecting my forward spars, I noticed what I perceive as a problem. >It seems that there is some space between the spar web and the longest of the >spar flange strips. >Jim Nice >RV6A(Wings) >WA State > I believe most builders who rivet their own spars have this problem. Most are unaware of it. Van was aware of it four years ago when I discussed it with him. Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Curtis Shoemaker <clshoemaker(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: R404 Detail
I also encountered a similar problem on the horizontal stab (HS). I also used the skins as a template to fit and assemble the ribs and spars. I did this by marking and matching drilling the rivet holes in the skin to a set of sheet metal templates. These were clecoed to the rear spar. The rib centerlines were marked with a sharpie, and positioned to line up with the holes drilled in the template. Ribs can be clamped with small C clamps to these sheet metal templates, holding the whole thing in alignment. This procedure works great for getting all the holes centered in the flanges. However, the root rib to forward spar location was indeed a problem, with the rivet hole too close to the web of the rib. I laid the holes out in the HS-610 and HS-614 with a digital readout (accurate to 0.001"), and included a #40 pilot hole where the root rib to forward spar should engage (including HS-610/614). If I had NOT drilled the pilot hole in the HS-610/614, then simply shifting the rivet hole location would have been OK. The solution was to make and "L shaped" piece of 0.032" 2024 T3 aluminum as a "southpaw" flange for the root rib, facing inside the structure. The top was made planar with the original flange, and bent to the appropriate angle to engage the front spar. It was riveted 4 times to the root rib, and was riveted to the next rivet over on the HS-610 / HS-614. The misplaced pilot hole was drilled and a standard rivet placed in that hole. The original flange was riveted in the center two locations to mate with the forward rib, as per the plans. From this excerise, I learned NOT to drill pilot holes per plans locations, even if you have a Bridgeport mill to place them accurate. Parts have to be mated and match drilled, and NO holes drilled until you have both parts in hand and properly mated. I was also guilty of drilling #40 pilot holes in HS-610 / 614 where fuselage will later attach. This may not have been wise, but I'll have to work through that when the time comes. In the meantime, the above principle must apply... If anyone is interested, I have some step by step procedures of how I fixed the problem and some digital photographs. Curtis Shoemaker Round Rock, TX RV-6A Empennage (HS built, VS almost built, and wings on order!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical card compass
Larry Bowen wrote: > > > Why don't you use the compass module? For normal VFR flight with a GPS, a compass just isn't necessary (as long as the GPS doesn't quit). > If you had to do it over again, would > you still get the module option? Probably not. As stated, a very cheap compass would be sufficient for VFR use, and a vertical card unit would be better suited for IFR flight. Sam Buchanan > > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > --- Sam Buchanan wrote: > > > From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical card compass > > > > > > > I likewise use the GPS for heading info. I have the electronic compass > > > module for the RMI uEncoder but hardly ever use it. > > > > > > > Sam > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Altimeter/encoder
Thanks again Mike. Have a great Day! Denny Harjehausen Lebanon, OR RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
Subject: Prop Governor
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
The prop governor I advertised has been sold. Thank you to all who responded. Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 1999
From: Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tools for Sale
I have the following rebuilt, aircraft quality tools for sale through the holidays: SALE NORMAL PRICE PRICE 10-CP-214 squeezers with a standard 1.5" yoke $350.00 $375.00 5-CP-3x rivet guns 135.00 150.00 10-CP-2x rivet guns 125.00 140.00 8-Rockwell 3000 RPM right angle drill motors 200.00 225.00 All the tools carry a one (1) year warranty. I've met a number of builders at either the Golden West Fly-in at Merced or Copperstate. If anyone has any questions about the tools, you can contact either Scott McDaniels or John Harmon. I just rebuilt Scott's squeezer & the squeezer Van's rents for the spars. I've done business with John & the Bakersfield Bunch for several years. Any special requests, please contact me off-line. Time to buy the empennage kit for the 6A. Blue Skies! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Move to the airport
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Listers, For those of you who haven't moved an airplane to the airport and will need to sometime in the future, I thought I'd give you my experiences. I just moved my RV-6A to its new home at Danville, KY (DVK) and had no problems with the move. Finding a suitable trailer is difficult, at best. However, there are many rollback trucks out there. The nice thing about them is that they are wide enough to do the job. The bed of the truck comes down to meet the ground so that a built in ramp is there for your convenience. In my case, a good friend had one and offered it for free. We used his pickup, as well. One surely can't beat the price. :-) To load the RV, we hooked a couple of motorcycle hold down straps around the fork of the nose gear to prevent damage to the gear. The hooks on the hold down straps were hooked into the hook on the wench cable. We slowly eased the nose onto the bed and found out that the tail was going to strike the ground; so, we got two 4' sections of 2"X6" lumber to place under the main tires as it rolled upon the bed. The little ramps kept the tail up very nicely. As soon as we had the mains on the bed, we started raising the bed to take the strain off the nose gear. When it was leveled out, we pulled the fuselage up to the front of the truck. To make sure the fuselage stayed on the truck, we tied it down with the tail ring, the nose gear, and the steps. A large strap was run across the nose gear to prevent it's trying to tip up and to give more holding power up front. Some chocks were place around the tires to stabilize things, although I don't think they were needed. As for the wings, they were loaded onto the pickup. Since my buddy also builds Bassmaster boats, he had plenty of foam to nestle the wings in. We just layered them into the foam and tied everything down. The tools and other stuff were loaded into my pickup. This made for one trip to the airport. The trip to the airport was uneventful. We traveled at about 45MPH when we got on the four lane highway. Needless to say, we had several folks who slowed down to see what we had on board. When we got to the airport, it was just a reversal of the loading. The whole trip, to include about 18 miles of travel, was less than 1.5 hours. Today, I go to finish up the wing bolts. Whew! That's a lot harder than the move! :-) Anyway, I hope my move info will help some of you. I got the idea from a fellow RVer who posted on the list a while back and can attest to its being a very easy and safe way to do it. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Prepping for a December flight, finally!!!! ) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz)
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: Formation flying training
Texas Air Aces in Houston at Hooks airport can give form trng. and get you a wingman patch to fly in mass gaggles at airshows. Website: www.airaces.com RV guy on staff. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: Re: Elec.Trim RV6/8 brackets
My plans had two of the same side (don't remember which side). As I recall I had to fabricate the brackets. Bill Pagan N565BW "The original RV-8A builders page on the web" http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html > >Has anyone had their left and right brackets for the Mac 8 servo >mislabeled? After reviewing the plans, it appears that the brackets >that I have are reversed. Also the plans don't provide bracket >measurements or mention the need to cut and trim the brackets. It looks to me >that I need to cut these bracket to fit. Looking for advise. Thanks in >advance. > >Ted Gauthier >Blunist(at)flash.net > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Spar Rivets
Date: Nov 23, 1999
I recall reading somewhere that the mfg. head should always go on the side of the thinner material. I helped a friend rivet his spars using a large Arbor Press. Four wacks with a 3 lb hammer on a 1' handle and the rivets were sent very very nice. As nice as the ones on my pre-build (Philo...) spar. We did have to turn the spar over so that the shop head was always against the thick stiffeners. No spaces between the spar and stiffeners. On my next RV that is what I plan to do. Marty in Brentwood TN. ----- Original Message ----- From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 7:28 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Spar Rivets > > Try placing the shop head of the rivet on the spar web. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-9 vs RV-6
Date: Nov 23, 1999
I bought into Vans statements about engine cost and forgiving flynig characteristics. John Harris Cary, NC "tail in the mail" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net>
Subject: Re: Tools for Sale
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Fred, I want one of the CP 2X rivet guns. How do I pay? Please contact me at deffner(at)glade.net 254-562-7137 or if busy 7330. David Deffner ---------- > From: Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Tools for Sale > Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 11:10 PM > > > I have the following rebuilt, aircraft quality tools for sale through > the holidays: > > > SALE NORMAL > > PRICE PRICE > > 10-CP-214 squeezers with a standard 1.5" yoke > $350.00 $375.00 > 5-CP-3x rivet > guns > 135.00 150.00 > 10-CP-2x rivet guns > 125.00 140.00 > 8-Rockwell 3000 RPM right angle drill motors > 200.00 225.00 > > All the tools carry a one (1) year warranty. I've met a number of > builders at either the Golden West Fly-in at Merced or Copperstate. If > anyone has any questions about the tools, you can contact either Scott > McDaniels or John Harmon. I just rebuilt Scott's squeezer & the > squeezer Van's rents for the spars. I've done business with John & the > Bakersfield Bunch for several years. Any special requests, please > contact me off-line. Time to buy the empennage kit for the 6A. > > Blue Skies! > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Most floor coating manufacturers don't require the acid wash if the concrete is a fresh pour (which I believe Dave said his was). This is because the pores of the concrete haven't had a chance to fill up with dirt and grime (the acid cleans these pores and brings back a slight texture) and the surface still has it's original rough texture to grip the paint (if the rough texture was gone you would also have to bead blast the surface). On a new floor just sweep and vacuum up any loose material and paint away. Scott Kuebler Buffalo, NY RV-6a (wings) >>> "Rick Jory" 11/22 12:14 PM >>> Forgot to mention one other thing. Prep concrete with diluted muriatic acid before you put something on top of it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: Spar Rivets
In all the years of building spars, for myself and other people, I have not seen gapping of this type as typical. After riveting, the spar pieces should be tight. If all burrs are removed and the pieces are held tightly together while riveted, there should be no gap after riveting. George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: Move to the airport
Jim, Glad you got your plane to the airport! The only recommendation I would make for securing the plane is to secure the gear only. We had some damage from bouncing when we tied the tail tiedown down to the trailer on one plane. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Shelby, The Sherwin-Williams man said the heat from the tires reacts with the paint, and won't with the colored stain. David Deffner F1 N212TR gettin' the shop ready ---------- > From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:25 AM > > > I have been looking at Air-tech 'hard deck' coating and the instructions say > the cure time is thirty days. They go on to say to put paper down under > tires until it cures - supposedly the tire have something that reacts. I > would contact Air-tech they sell paint for planes too and advertise in the > TOP. > > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > >Date: Mon, Nov 22, 1999, 9:33 AM > > > > > I'm guessing that you are confused about the drying time. The 30-45 days > > for drying is not for the paint/stain but for the concrete slab. The > > concrete needs 28 days to cure in order to get 100% of it's strength. If > > it is topcoated before this time the moisture won't be able to escape and > > you could get a weak floor or warping/cracking of the concrete. > > > > Always wait the full 28 days before working with normal concrete. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Spar Rivets
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Jim, I encountered this problem eons ago when I build my spars. Van's said it was OK as long as it was only at the outboard end of the longest spar flange strip (outboard of the tiedown ring IIRC). Ken Harrill RV-6, finish While inspecting my forward spars, I noticed what I perceive as a problem. It seems that there is some space between the spar web and the longest of the spar flange strips. There is enough space to slide a piece of paper between the two with not much friction. This only occurs between the spar web and the "longest" and "thinnest" spar flange strip. I removed the rivets from one side of the spar. I placed clamps just outboard of one of the rivet holes and checked with the paper before inserting a rivet. There was no gap. I then riveted the two together at that location. Upon removing the clamps, I could "still" slide that dang paper between the pieces down to the rivet. This makes no sense to me. Anybody have any ideas on this? It is interesting to me that where there are more strips stacked(more mass) I do not have this problem. One person suggested that because of the low amount of mass that I may need to clamp these pieces together with some pro-seal so they do not separate before the rivet is set. I thought that the clamps would accomplish this for me. By the way, I used a rivet gun and bucking bar to set the rivet. Jim Nice RV6A(Wings) WA State ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Using oil lines for a battery cable.
Earlier this week, there was a little bit of discussion about combining an oil line with a ground system in a canard pusher aircraft. The line was to bring warm oil forward for use as a cabin heat source. The writer wondered if the same line could be used as an electrical conductor to replace a 2AWG ground wire. I could see how it might be done. The potential hazard would arise from the single point of contact between the liquid carrying tubing and the electrical connection to that tubing. If that joint, and the one adjacent to it were of impecable integrity, then no electrical arcing and subsequent damage to the liquid carrying component could occur due to poor conduction, overheating and arcing. I could see a copper strap looped around the tubing at some appropriate location, soldered to the tubing and formed into a tab where a wire could be bolted on to carry electrons off to a destination separate from the oil. I suggested that the technique might save 2.5 pounds in the total weight of the airplane and further that the builder consider the trade off between the ease and confidence of a tube and wire installation versus taking on the task of making sure the dual use installation was technically sound. I expected to get a flood of mail about this . . . I have received a few responses that run in this general flavor: >I've been mechanicing for a while and the general formula is to keep the >electrical and fluid lines seperate. It introduces to many oppurtunities for >sparking which would creat hot spots that would put holes in the tubing. Understood. That philosophy operates under the assumption that sparking and arcing WILL occur. If one designs a system wherein arcing CANNOT occur, then the system is intrinsically safe. For example, certain potential electrical energy levels are ALLOWED inside a fuel tank because we understand the physics that supports combustion and/or explosions. Saturated vapors cannot combust due to lack of oxygen, ignition cannot happen below certain energy densities within an explosive atmosphere, etc. Automobiles have depended on these simple truths for over 60 years and we've yet to see the ass-ends of cars being blown off by their fuel gages. Bureaucratic posturing and rewriting of the laws of physics to support TWA 800 soothsayers not withstanding, there are ways to bring potentially hazardous substances into close proximity with potentially antagonistic phenomenon with comfort. It's like defining the weight and ballance envelope for an airplane, stay inside and your future is bright, venture outside and risks multiply rapidly. Rules of thumb, general formulas and other sage advice don't have to consider anything except the stature of the authors, their power to promote them, and our willingness to accept them. The amateur built airplane arena is one of the few places left were politicians and bureaucrats have yet to take a strangle-hold on philosophy and technology. In this venue, no idea is unworthy of consideration under the light and magnifying glass of physics. Personally, I'd have no problem fabricating such a system and flying it with confidence. An amateur builder may want to solicit the aid of one experienced in the mechanical skills of putting the parts together. He might even consider backing off the oil line and using the vacuum line (if he's unfortunate enough to need one) to do the dual task. I took on this issue to illustrate the precious value of the freedom we have to do good science on our airplanes. I'm sure I came off a bit wild-eyed a few days ago when I responded to someone's query about an FAA inspector's request to do a detailed weight and balance document for an amateur built airplane. It's not that doing such a document is a BAD idea, but it's not necessary from a regulatory perspective. Nor does it have much value in the future operation of the airplane . . . perhaps an exercise with EDUCATIONAL value but certainly no more. The requestor may have been genuinely interested in advancing the builder's understanding of airplanes. No matter what HIS/HER motivation, should some future up-n- coming bureaucrat find reference to or even a copy of such a document in an FAA file, there's an opportunity for an educational exercise to take root and grow up as a requirement. Ben Franklin, at the signing of the Declaration of Independence allowed as how, "We should all hang together or most certainly we shall all hang separately." The future of our craft and right to practice it is delicately balanced on our ability to "hang together." Fly comfortably my friends but be watchful for the noses of camels circling our collective tent . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Solid State Strobe?!?!
Yesterday afternoon I saw a prototype of a red flashing beacon sent in to Raytheon for evaluation. The light emitters were an array of about 50 high intensity RED leds. The total power draw of this beacon at 28v was .3 amps. A 14v model would be .6 amps. Aside from the usual glass dome over the lamps, there was only a small lump on the bottom of the fixture to provide a housing for flasher electronics. As I watched the demonstration, I wondered if the intensity and color requirements were being met but all-in-all, the prototype was impressive. I've been pondering the possibility of doing something similar on amateur built airplanes. Xenon filled tubes, 300v power supplies, whining noises in the headsets and $600 beacons need to go the way of the dodo bird. We may have witnessed the seeds of fulfillment of that wish. Stay tuned. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================ http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: Elec.Trim RV6/8 brackets
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Yes, I definitely had to trim mine. I clamped them to the servo sides and then marked off all the areas to trim. After that, they worked OK. I had a left and a right in my kit. Bill Christie, RV-8A, Ailerons ----- Original Message ----- From: Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 7:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Elec.Trim RV6/8 brackets > > Has anyone had their left and right brackets for the Mac 8 servo > mislabeled? After reviewing the plans, it appears that the brackets > that I have are reversed. Also the plans don't provide bracket > measurements or mention the need to cut and trim the brackets. It looks to me > that I need to cut these bracket to fit. Looking for advise. Thanks in advance. > > Ted Gauthier > Blunist(at)flash.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: Cap Instructions: Please Read!
In a message dated 11/23/99 3:07:06 PM GMT Standard Time, rv8er(at)home.com writes: << Last chance! >> I mailed mine yesterday. Is there an E-mail address or phone for Steve Davis so that I can check if he received them. Cash Copeland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry E James" <larryj(at)oz.net>
Subject: new concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 23, 1999
I have experience painting some dozen or so shop floors over the years, and here is my experience: concrete stains - terrible, picks up tire marks (no matter what the can says), wears excessively; oil or alkyd based concrete paints - better but still picks up tire marks, lasts about a year with medium use; water based epoxy concrete paint - I just used a Rustoleum product in my new basement shop and am very pleased with it from a balance between performance, cost, and ease of use; polyurethane concrete paint (Imron etc.) - my experience is that these are the best, by far ... also the most expensive and hardest to apply. I simply buy a new roller, brush and roller pan, and throw them away when I'm done. As with most finishing, preparation is key. In the case of a concrete floor, make sure there are no oils by using soap and water (or solvent and absorbent first for really bad spots), then etch with muriatic acid - flushing with water. As soon as it is dry and before anyone walks on it, paint it. The water based epoxy product ran around $60/gallon, and the polyurethanes run around $120/gallon. I have now used all of the paint bases described and would recommend either of these two ... I have just used the water based epoxy (Rustoleum bought from Grainger) in my basement workshop and my father's hangar and am pleased with it. When I get my hangar I will use the polyurethane. Cheers, Larry E James Bellevue, WA larryj(at)oz.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: F619 floor ribs
Do both the left and right F619 ribs get cut and splice plate added? Plans look like only one rib is cut. Also, the plans show a 1 3/4" x 1" notch cut in the F619's on the bottom front of rib where they attach to the F604. Why???? They look like the notch already cut out is sufficient. Is there something going to go there later that I am not seeing? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuse stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: belts for Rv's
Date: Nov 23, 1999
I've been surfing around the internet learning more about these planes and came upon an add for seat belts for RV's. These are basically racing 5 or 6 point belts like those in my (and everyone elses) race car. Nothing new here, until I saw the price tag. OHMYGAWD!! Come on guys, just because you're pilots, I hope you're not paying $650 for seat belts like that. My car hit's 190 in a straight line and I'm held in by Simpson 6 point Racing belts, like most of the professional teams .... $170 per seat. Formula one drivers travel at speeds far exceeding my GT-3 car and they use the same belts I do. $650....geeze. Maybe I'm missing something in the translation, or maybe it's because they are belts for pilot$. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: F619 floor ribs
Date: Nov 23, 1999
-----Original Message----- From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 6:28 PM Subject: RV-List: F619 floor ribs > >Do both the left and right F619 ribs get cut and splice plate added? >Plans look like only one rib is cut. Also, the plans show a 1 3/4" x 1" >notch cut in the F619's on the bottom front of rib where they attach to >the F604. Why???? They look like the notch already cut out is >sufficient. Is there something going to go there later that I am not >seeing? > >Jerry Calvert >Edmond Ok -6 fuse stuff > Frank Justice suggests both ribs be made removable as it makes control assembly servicing easier -- I agree. I used AN3s with nut plates at the splices as they are easier to tighten/loosen in the narrow confines of the rib cavity than Phillips head screws. The notches are for the close tolerance bolt nuts which need more clearance than just a notch. I was just fitting mine with he wings installed and I had to cut them all the way through. The flange is supported by several 8-32 screws so cutting a gap out of the rib seems to do little harm strength wise. Plan on doing lots of chain-saw massacre cutting in this area later to get controls to clear! Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: DC Load Centers
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Has anyone used a load center in place of the usual fuse panal and switches ? I have been reading about the products from Control Vision and they would seem to be 1) lighter 2) easier to wire 3) cost about the same as buying the components to do a standard electric distribution and load center. Tom (362CT) Reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 23, 1999
> >> Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I >> start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south >of >> Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry >time >> for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real >> advantages to either? Already better than gravel. > >Paint is the easiest to keep clean. Oil spills wipe right up. I would do a >white to reflect light. It will make a difference in the brightness of your >shop. > >Norman Norm, I painted the concrete floor in a typical 40 sheet metal row hangar. While I like the clean up and advantages others have mentioned, one disappointment is a condensation problem. With certain temp/humidity changes the floor and bottom of the airplane get soaked and it seems to take forever to dry out. Other nearby unpainted hangars do not have the problem or to a much lesser degree. It seems that the moisture can soak into uncoated concrete but not sealed or painted. Several people have suggested fans, but I hate to leave the hangar with electrical stuff running. Dick Sipp N250DS RV4 180 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: F619 floor ribs
> > Do both the left and right F619 ribs get cut and splice plate added? > Plans look like only one rib is cut. Also, the plans show a 1 3/4" x 1" > notch cut in the F619's on the bottom front of rib where they attach to > the F604. Why???? They look like the notch already cut out is > sufficient. Is there something going to go there later that I am not > seeing? I put the splice plate in only one of the F619 ribs and was unable to install the control tubes. So I removed the other rib and also put a splice plate in. Much easier done when building the fuselage skeleton. I used AN3 bolt and AN365 nuts, wish I had used nutplates instead of the bolts. As for the notches, I looked at the plans then at my ribs. Heck the notch is already there so I left well enough alone. Then I installed the wings. Oops, the bottom lower notch needed to be deeper to clear the NAS wing spar bolts. Cut the notch deeper now. Gary Zilik RV-6A - Moving to airport T-Day morning. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: DC Load Centers
Tom Ervin wrote: > > Has anyone used a load center in place of the usual fuse panal and switches > ? I have been reading about the products from Control Vision and they would > seem to be 1) lighter 2) easier to wire 3) cost about the same as buying > the components to do a standard electric distribution and load center. > Tom (362CT) Reserved Electric Bob is not to fond of them. Don't really remember why. But I almost used one. I wanted an all switch panel and followed one of Bob's diagrams using automotive fuse blocks. Most of my switches are dual use to cut down on the number of switches. Control Vision's load bus limits creativity with the switches and this is why I did not use one. I have talked with many builder/flyers that have them and they are pleased with the product and it's ease of installation. I think on my next plane I shall use one. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: F619 floor ribs
Date: Nov 23, 1999
It is best to cut both of the F-619 ribs. That will make it a lot easier to get the control column pieces in place. The ribs are now pre-notched, but the notch is not big enough. I had to hog out a bigger hole when I did mine. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A empanage fairing. -----Original Message----- From: RV6BLDR [mailto:calverjl(at)flash.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 7:29 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: F619 floor ribs Do both the left and right F619 ribs get cut and splice plate added? Plans look like only one rib is cut. Also, the plans show a 1 3/4" x 1" notch cut in the F619's on the bottom front of rib where they attach to the F604. Why???? They look like the notch already cut out is sufficient. Is there something going to go there later that I am not seeing? Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuse stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
Date: Nov 23, 1999
I will be purchasing Simpson race belts..they are really nice, and for the 4 point jobs, they are only about $120/seat. They are considerably more if you get the quick release option. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 6:04 PM Subject: RV-List: belts for Rv's > >I've been surfing around the internet learning more about these planes and >came upon an add for seat belts for RV's. These are basically racing 5 or 6 >point belts like those in my (and everyone elses) race car. Nothing new >here, until I saw the price tag. OHMYGAWD!! Come on guys, just because >you're pilots, I hope you're not paying $650 for seat belts like that. My >car hit's 190 in a straight line and I'm held in by Simpson 6 point Racing >belts, like most of the professional teams .... $170 per seat. Formula one >drivers travel at speeds far exceeding my GT-3 car and they use the same >belts I do. $650....geeze. Maybe I'm missing something in the translation, >or maybe it's because they are belts for pilot$. > >Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: HAPPY THANKSGIVING.....GIVING.....GIVING.....
Listers........ Well the Holidays are almost upon us. At least upon us here in the good old U.S. of A. I will be traveling north to spend Thanksgiving with the In-Laws in Cleveland. (I know, what did I do wrong in a previous life?) Since I won't be able to post any appeals for a couple of days I thought I would post this and say THANKS for GIVING to everyone who has done so already. For those of you still holding out, please think about giving real soon. I'm sure you wouldn't just pick up a magazine or paper from a news-stand and just walk off without paying. Why would you do that here among friends. You don't have to give a lot. Just a little for what you get out of this fantastic list. A buck or two a month. Is that too much to ask? Sure it would pay freight on a part or buy you lunch for 2 or 3 days but hey, I'm sure you get a lot more long term satisfaction out of reading the List. Lets all get on board and make this the most successful Fund Raiser yet. I am sure Matt can use the money to cover expenses and for new equipment that will make it an even better resource. THANKS.....for......GIVING AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Rib Mounting
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Answer from Tom at VAN's is that double countersink was the best bet going. Just shorten the rivet a tad and put it in there Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: Emrath <emrath(at)home.com> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 11:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Rib Mounting > > My thanks to Mark, Jim, Gary, and Kevin for their responses. Another local > builder and Jet plane technician, Tony and with concurrence from David, it > appears this may be the best way to proceed. I'll be calling Van's on > Monday and see if they concur. I'll let y'all know their response. > Marty in Brentwood TN. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 7:11 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Rib Mounting > > > > > > Marty- > > > > Any reason you can't do it like the 3/4" x 3/4" spreader bar shown in > > fig. 7-2 in the wing section? (oh yeah! The ole double-countersink > > trick!) Worked pretty good for the spar. > > Good luck > > > > From the PossumWorks > > Mark > > > > Emrath wrote: > > > > > > > > > I just did a really dumb thing tonight. I countersunk the wrong side of > my > > > rear spar way out on end where the tip rib is supposed to mount. I > should > > > have counter sunk the W-607E doubler plate and not the spar. I actually > > > countersunk the spar on the leading edge side instead of the rear side > on > > > the doubler plate. Anyone have a fix? Fill the countersunk holes with > JB > > > Weld, or maybe intersperse three rivets between the four existing holes > in > > > the spar? These would hold the rib to the spar before mounting the > aileron > > > mount on the tip rib. There is 3/8" between the C/L of the rib flange > hole > > > mounting locations and the holes for the aileron mount. It seems to me > this > > > is the solution to my problem because the mount will really be the > strength > > > in the joint. This is much like the Elevator mounts to spar and inboard > rib > > > on the HS, I think. Anyone else done this and willing to confess? > > > > > > Marty Emrath RV6 right wing ready to rivet this weekend. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: DC Load Centers
In a message dated 11/23/99 5:49:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes: << Has anyone used a load center in place of the usual fuse panel and switches ? I have been reading about the products from Control Vision and they would seem to be 1) lighter 2) easier to wire 3) cost about the same as buying the components to do a standard electric distribution and load center. >> The thing was a royal pain in the arse to install in a buddy's Murphy Rebel (he bought it thinking the same thing as you). I prefer discrete components and think that the CV is a waste of money. IMO go the Nuckolls fuseblock and switches way if you like fuses or the standard circuit breakers and switches way if you don't. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PANELCUT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel Cap Info Please Read!
Listers I just wanted to Thank Paul Besing for keeping this fuel cap info straight and making my job A little easier. Paul has been a good friend that I met over the Internet about a year ago when he contacted me about doing his panel. He Introduced me to the LIST and the rest is history, again Thank you Paul. Tomorrow I will post all the ones I have received and will do so everyday until Wensday of next week except for this weekend i'm out of town. I will turn these around quickly. I do appreicate all the orders. Steve Davis The Panel Pilot http://members.aol.com/panelcut ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 1999
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re:Electric Flap Interference
Listers, I have hit a snag with my Electric flap conversion. The forward brace hits the tip up canopy cross rod. I know this has been discussed in the archives and I kinda have the idea but I am wondering if someone has taken a picture of this arrangement and has it on a web page. They say a picture is worth a thousand words -- Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance, Doug Murray RV-6 Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net>
Subject: Re: New concrete shop floor
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Dick, I started this one on pros and cons of painting the shop floor. Moisture is one of my concerns. Where are you in the country? David Deffner ---------- > From: Dick Sipp <rsipp(at)ismi.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: New concrete shop floor > Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 7:53 PM > > > > > > >> Any suggestions on whether to paint or stain my new shop floor before I > >> start building my F1, N212TR. It was poured on Oct. 27, 100 miles south > >of > >> Dallas. Checked with Sherwin-Williams, 30 days for paint, 45 days dry > >time > >> for stain (3 coats). The floor has a nice finish on it. Any real > >> advantages to either? Already better than gravel. > > > >Paint is the easiest to keep clean. Oil spills wipe right up. I would do a > >white to reflect light. It will make a difference in the brightness of your > >shop. > > > >Norman > > > Norm, I painted the concrete floor in a typical 40 sheet metal row hangar. > While I like the clean up and advantages others have mentioned, one > disappointment is a condensation problem. With certain temp/humidity > changes the floor and bottom of the airplane get soaked and it seems to take > forever to dry out. > Other nearby unpainted hangars do not have the problem or to a much lesser > degree. It seems that the moisture can soak into uncoated concrete but not > sealed or painted. Several people have suggested fans, but I hate to leave > the hangar with electrical stuff running. > > Dick Sipp > N250DS RV4 180 hours > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: [Please Read] List Fund Raiser Continues; LOC #1 December 1st!
Greetings Listers! Don't forget the 1999 List Fund Raiser is still in progress and there is still plenty of time to make a Contribution and assure yourself a place on on the first List Of Contributors (LOC)! I will post the first LOC on December 1st and it will detail everyone that has generously made a Contribution so far this year!! It costs a great deal to maintain the Email and Web server systems and high-speed Internet connection that provide the Email List services found here. I won't even mention the many, many hours I spend each week running the Lists, doing backups, handling subscription requests, and creating new email and web features and services such as the Archive Search Engine, and Archive Browser... Whoops; I think I just did! :-) This year's Fund Raiser started out pretty slow and I was starting to think that no one appreciated me anymore... ;-) But, in the last week or so things have really started to pick up! So if you haven't made a Contribution yet this year, why not join your email List friends and make a contribution today to support the continued operation of these Lists! There are two easy methods for making your Contribution: * Make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, surf over to: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html * Make a Contribution by check, send US Mail to: Matronics c/o Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 I would like to sincerely thank everyone who has already made a Contribution so far this year! I greatly appreciate your generosity and support and want you to know that these Lists have been made possible directly by *YOU*! Thank you! Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment List for certification
I had my inspection yesterday by the FAA. It was a very pleasent event. I had taken various bid of advise from you guys. He was pleased with the paper work and the airplane. Only comment he had was on the oil and fuel senders. He said that a few of this type had cracked at the base where the hose screws in or is screwed to the engine in some cases. His advise there was keep your eye on them, check them frequently! The Encoder/altimeter check was optional before flight as many of you had said. He said naturally for IFR or required transponder areas it should be checked and noted in the log book. He also advised that any changes or repairs should be noted in the log book. He said it was double edge sword, as many feel it is words to hang them with, but it can also save your but in the same investigation. The other advantage of such entries is pointed out in a recent accident they were investigating of an RV-8, there were no log book entries of things that were reported throu witnesses. Some said they saw this fellow work on a fuel leak and one said he thought he had worked on an oil leak. Being nothing in the log they aren't too sure if any of these reports were correct as to what went on. The engine siezed due lack of oil they believe thus far. Fuel leak, they don't what part that played in the accident as yet, or the investigators haven't said as yet. They noted that this fellow was an excellent craftsman and a sincere builder, so fault there was known. There was fire, however the fire extiguisher was in the back seat. The fire wasn't thus far felt to be the major contributor to the accident. He said log entries could help to focus and decide if there was design or building problem in the systems of the engine and fuel that should be corrected, so as to help others in their building process. He noted that he understood why some are in fear of too much information from them as it could be used against them in civil action. That has to be address somehow to make progress in safety, as that is a stumbling block to open information. Anyway I found the whole inspection easy and helpful. Thanks again for all your advise! Now one to getin the thang in the air! Have a good one! Denny Harjehausen RV-6 N641DH Lebanon, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location
I would like to locate a single strobe AND a VOR antenna on top of the vertical stabilizer of an RV-6A. The VOR antenna installation would be like the one described in the RVator, Fourth Issue, 1999, P 14. Does anyone have experience with locating a strobe and a VOR antenna in that close proximity and/or running the cables near each other? My concern is possible VHF emissions of the strobe and/or cable that would cause noise or interference with VOR signals. RH Dudley RV-6A empennage Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: Elec.Trim RV6/8 brackets
Ted- On my -6A kit shipped late last year, my brackets weren't labelled and I had to play with them somewhat to figure out which way they went- eventually I got the right combination, then I made SURE I marked them. Mine required extensive modification- pretty much a custom fit (I think this is a good warm-up/prelude for things to come- you'll see! It is very important to make sure you get the side to side location to properly match the slot cut out in the cover plate- you only modify this opening by making it bigger! From the PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips -6A, still trying to cause a flap! Ted Gauthier wrote: > > > Has anyone had their left and right brackets for the Mac 8 servo > mislabeled? After reviewing the plans, it appears that the brackets > that I have are reversed. Also the plans don't provide bracket > measurements or mention the need to cut and trim the brackets. It looks to me > that I need to cut these bracket to fit. Looking for advise. Thanks in advance. > > Ted Gauthier > Blunist(at)flash.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PANELCUT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel Caps Received
Listers Here are the ones I have received so far: David Stafford Dennis Persykk I do expect more today when they arrive I will update this evening. Steve Davis The Panel Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location
My hanger mate has the Archer VOR antenna & a Whelen in each Van's wing tip......no problems reported. ( I have not shot a loc. approach with the strobes blazing & the running lights ablaze yet..... I will this weekend to verify ) My real point is that we use the GPS almost 100% and the VOR really has lots-o-dust on it.....the GPS receiver antenna is on the fuse. amidship and as far away from elect. noise as can be....do you plan to be a heavy VOR or GPS user ??? rhdudley(at)att.net on 11/24/99 08:43:25 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location I would like to locate a single strobe AND a VOR antenna on top of the vertical stabilizer of an RV-6A. The VOR antenna installation would be like the one described in the RVator, Fourth Issue, 1999, P 14. Does anyone have experience with locating a strobe and a VOR antenna in that close proximity and/or running the cables near each other? My concern is possible VHF emissions of the strobe and/or cable that would cause noise or interference with VOR signals. RH Dudley RV-6A empennage Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Seat Belt part numbers/prices
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Check out http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/ They have some belts that have the standard "bolt in" mounts, which equate to the RV mounts. Here are some part numbers and prices, for the ones I feel will work best in the RV. Keep in mind that I have yet to purchase them, but this is what I have concluded after looking at their entire product line. 29024 55" Bolt-In seat belt $51.95 30000 Shoulder Harness $42.95 31015 submarine Strap $18.95 Since I do not plan competetion style aerobatics, I will probably leave out the submarine strap..not bad prices for MIL Spec webbing. they look cool too! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 11/23/99
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Formation Flying
Listers, I founded Formation Flying, Inc (FFI) this year in response to FAA's 1997 requirement that any pilot wishing to fly formation in FAA waivered airspace had to have a formation card issued by an agency approved by the FAA. On 21Apr 99, FFI was approved by FAA to evaluate and issue non-aerobatic formation cards to all non-warbird pilots. Through the evaluation and card process, FFI will gradually build a cadre of wingmen, flight leaders, and check pilots around the country who have all been evaluated against a set standard and can safely fly formation, be it for local recreation or for an airshow in FAA waivered airspace. FFI presented two forums at AirVenture99 and flew two 9-ship formations during the Showcase portion. FFI does not train, it evaluates. However, FFI members can and to train, but not in the name of FFI. I am building a list of formation flyers around the country so when I am looking for a group for an airshow or flyover, wherever it may be, I know who to call. If anyone out there would like to be listed, send me your names, addresses, telephone numbers, email addresses, the formation group name, and number and types of aircraft in the group. If you need an evaluation for a formation card, FFI can help. Stu McCurdy Formation Flying, Inc > From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) > Subject: Re: RV-List: Formation flying training > > > Texas Air Aces in Houston at Hooks airport can give form trng. and get > you a wingman patch to fly in mass gaggles at airshows. > > Website: www.airaces.com > > RV guy on staff. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Electric Flap Interference
Date: Nov 24, 1999
The forward brace hits the tip up canopy cross rod. >Doug Murray RV-6 >Southern Alberta I used a sawed off mop handle to simm the rod. (didn't have the finsih kit) I added a 3/4x3/4x.062 angle at the f605 to move the top attach aft & lower. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)juno.com
Subject: F619 floor ribs
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Jerry: I would splice both of them. the next two (f618's) will need gobbing out also. After i got to fit the controls, I then could see what is needed for the fit. I think it would be a good drill to goto the controls & get them fiitted at this time. I JB welded thick washers in the clevii to keep friom dropping the washers at install time. Wll add the thin ones later. You will end up learning that you are going to scrach the controls & you must assemble each time with the 2 619;s & the carry through rod togather. I think if you would tape all the peices before the fit, them remove & paint them later, you could stop all the scratches. My main point is I think the fitting of the controls would go better on the fixture & with out the bottom skin on. Also On ship 2 I would look in to NOT riveting the middle bottom skins on until I drill the seat floor skins. You will be able to back drill in lieu of blind drilling. Us A guys need to leave them off for drilling the gear mounts also. Thats another thing, lay out & consider the seat bottom hinges before you decide on the rivet pattern of the seat skins. I have been trying to keep the cars all fixed on the hill so haven't worked on the plane for a month. I hope I can see your bird this week end. Got to goto OK. Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ============================================================= >Do both the left and right F619 ribs get cut and splice plate added? >Plans look like only one rib is cut. Also, the plans show a 1 3/4" x >1" >notch cut in the F619's on the bottom front of rib where they attach >to >the F604. Why???? They look like the notch already cut out is >sufficient. Is there something going to go there later that I am not >seeing? > >Jerry Calvert >Edmond Ok -6 fuse stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: DC Load Centers
Bob convinced me against the load center tho I tend to like things on circuit boards. I bought one of his fuse blocks and it is very nice and easy to install. Since it uses modern auto fuses I like it. I was also influenced by the airline pilot who said they are not allowed to operate circuit breakers when in flight. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location
> >I would like to locate a single strobe AND a VOR antenna on top of the >vertical stabilizer of an RV-6A. Trying to make it look even more like a Grumman, eh? Get a Bob Archer VOR antenna and mount it in the wingtip. Then you won't have to worry about ice carrying it away. I plan flashing halogens in wingtips and tail. I hope to have approval, testing etc in a month or two. Hal Kempthorne - SJC RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13 Debonair N6134V for sale ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt part numbers/prices
>Since I do not plan competetion style aerobatics, I will probably leave out >the submarine strap.. I thought this was for collision use..... >not bad prices for MIL Spec webbing. they look cool >too! WEIGH cool?? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
Brian: Where is Pacific Aero Harness???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com>
Subject: HS-810/814 Goof and Fix
I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but I bent the HS-810 and HS-814 forward spars before I aligned them with the 802s. I lucked out and since I had used a drill press to precisely center the holes in the aluminum channel, I was able to transfer the holes over into the 802s with some careful measuring and it all came out all right. The moral of the story is that I'm going to order the videos and watch them carefully. I have to admit that while I'm very impressed with the kit, the components, and the plans; the documentation could use some refinement. I now understand the advice from the list that cautions builders to read ahead - far ahead. Bob RV-8A QB Empennage (learning...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com>
Subject: Re: Glareshield with integral lighting in an RV-6A
Date: Nov 24, 1999
I elected to install a fiberglass glareshield in my RV-6A. I did this because I wanted the look of a padded glareshield, and because I wanted a removable means of attaching overhead lighting. To do this I used the existing aluminum skin as a mold for the fiberglass. I installed the skin on the fuselage with clecos (with a couple of low profile screws under the fiberglass layup) I used just 3 or 4 layers of glass to allow for flexibility in the finished product. (Remember the mold release) I then trimmed both the fiberglass glareshield and the skin to make the intersection of the two fair neatly into each other. The finished aluminum is no less than 1" from the panel in the center, and of course much wider at the sides to fit the windscreen appropriately. For lighting I used flexible lighting strips (like light bulbs in vinyl tubing) from JC Whitney. I bent a very thin and lightweight piece of aluminum angle with my shrinker tool to fit the inside curve of the glareshield and used double sided sticky foam to adhere the lights to the inside of the angle. On top of the glareshield I used vinyl I purchased from a auto upholstery shop over a layer of very thin foam . I also purchased some edge stripping from them which just snaps onto the edge of the glareshield and makes a nice finish. Contact cement was used to glue the vinyl and foam to the glareshield. The glareshield itself is attached to the airframe with rivnuts. The system is powered by a 5amp solid state system from Aeroelectric Connection. The end result was a very good lighting effect, except for the A/I and D/G. Both of these instruments have pointers at the very top of the instrument which are shadowed in the overhead lighting. For these two instruments I used Whelen post lights driven from the same power source. It was an interesting experiment which achieved the desired lighting effect and attractiveness at the expense of additional weight and time. John Allen RV-6A Rigging the controls FREE voicemail, email, and fax...all in one place. Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location
RH, I have well over 300 hrs on my 6A and it has the VOR antenna and strobe mounted on top of the VS. I have never experienced any problems with these two items being located next to each other. With the strobe on, I can receive VORs at a range of 125-130 nm at altitude. There are no effects on the localizer reception either. My one main complaint with this arrangement is at night. The stobe reflects off of the wing and produces a blinding light in the cockpit. I tape off a significant portion of the lens for night operations. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably put the stobes in each wing tip to prevent this really annoying problem. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying >I would like to locate a single strobe AND a VOR antenna on top of the >vertical stabilizer of an RV-6A. The VOR antenna installation would be >like the one described in the RVator, Fourth Issue, 1999, P 14. >Does anyone have experience with locating a strobe and a VOR antenna in >that close proximity and/or running the cables near each other? >My concern is possible VHF emissions of the strobe and/or cable that >would cause noise or interference with VOR signals. > >RH Dudley >RV-6A empennage >Florida > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: DC Load Centers
From: Bob Hall <robjhall(at)juno.com>
writes: >I have been reading about the products from Control Vision and > they woulds seem to be 1) lighter 2) easier to wire 3) cost about the same as > buying the components to do a standard electric distribution and load > center. I have one in my RV-6 and it has been trouble free (13+ months). In my experience, I would say the benefits listed are marginal at best. The big disadvantage I now see is that, sooner or later, something is going to break. When that happens a lot of connections will have to be dealt with to get the board out to be repaired. A major task when it could have been a minor one. Maybe I'll get lucky and that won't happen for 15-20 years. In retrospect, had I attended one of Electric Bob's presentations earlier in the building process, I would have chosen his method of using fuse blocks. My hangar mate did so in his RV-4 with good results. Simple is better. Bob Hall RV-6, Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PANELCUT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Fuel Caps Received So Far
Updated List (Received So Far) Ray Grenier Steve Hamer Wes Hayes David Stafford Al Mojzisik Forrest Copeland Dennis Persykk Chris Hand Marty Emrath Ed Ward John Lane Larry Bowen Jim Lane Rick McBride Len Leggete Jack Blomgren Greg Young Thanks, Everyone have a great Thanksgiving Holiday!!! Steve Davis The Panel Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Strobe-VOR Antenna Co-location
As a side note: There is a VOR/GS ant. available through Chief Aircraft that fits easily in the 6/6A VS tip without having to cut the sides of the VS for the circular mount as described in the vans newsletter. It is basically the same ant. as in the article except a smaller, flaired mounting base. (it was made specifically for the new Commanders that they build here in Oklahoma City). Looks real nice installed. The model number is: CI-182 Chief doesn't have it in stock,but will order is from Comat. Kurt, OKC, OK 6A Emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: C/S 360 Spinner plate
Date: Nov 24, 1999
O360 with Hartzell (Van's) C/S prop In fitting the spinner, I noticed that the prop blades, when manually rotated to minimum rpm (max pitch), hits the spinner back plate. Is this normal, or is there some internal adjustment to prevent this? I have the proper spacers between the hub and back plate. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Subject: SEAT BELTS- Simpson Racing Products
Date: Nov 24, 1999
SEAT BELTS -- Looks, to me, like these ought to work just fine, they are 5 point and less than $100 apiece............. http://www.speedmall.com/simpson/product.asp?dept_id=500 Rich Crosley Palmdale, CA RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CAPR13(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: Formation flying training
Thanks for the airaces info on formation flying. Ron V. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
Date: Nov 24, 1999
> Where is Pacific Aero Harness???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 His web site can be viewed at http://home.att.net/~robh/ Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, tackling wingtips www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CAPR13(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: C/S 360 Spinner plate
Alex, I have C/S as well and had the same problem. I used one washer as a shim with each spacer with success. It has 206 hrs. on it now with no complaints. Ron V. Have you got any snow yet? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: C/S 360 Spinner plate
--- Alex Peterson wrote: > > > O360 with Hartzell (Van's) C/S prop > > In fitting the spinner, I noticed that the prop > blades, when manually > rotated to minimum rpm (max pitch), hits the spinner > back plate. Is this > normal, or is there some internal adjustment to > prevent this? I have the > proper spacers between the hub and back plate. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN This is not normal. I had to add one or two washers in addition to the spacer to keep the prop blades from touching. Actual, they just kiss the backing plate or have the clearance of about a piece of paper. Add one or two washers to the spacer. If you need more than two washers, fab a new spacer. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, So. CA, USA Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Subject: Re: HS-810/814 Goof and Fix
Bob, welcome to the club. Back in July when I started this thing, I screwed my spars and angles as well. I placed the bad ones on the wall and ordered new parts. It also seems that many people drill the 4 holes that attach them to the fuselage too soon, as well. I did on the first set I made. Look at all the fine print on the drawings closely before drilling the holes on those angles. The manual says to drill all the holes now before making the bends, but don't do it. That HS front spar can be a little challenging, but it's plenty doable. If I did it, anyone can. I just hung my completed stabilizers and rudder on the wall and couldn't help but stand back and admire what I had done so far. It's fun, keep at it. Troy Black -8 right elevator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt part numbers/prices
Date: Nov 24, 1999
Paul and Listers I originally only had the lap and shoulder belts in my four but added the submarine belt this past summer simply to keep the lap belt in my lap. I found that tightening up the shoulder belts pulled the lap belt up until it was more of a chest belt without it. The fourth belt keeps it down across my hips and lap much better. Joe HIne RV4 C-FYTQ > >Check out http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/ > >They have some belts that have the standard "bolt in" mounts, which equate >to the RV mounts. >Here are some part numbers and prices, for the ones I feel will work best in >the RV. Keep in mind that I have yet to purchase them, but this is what I >have concluded after looking at their entire product line. > >29024 55" Bolt-In seat belt $51.95 >30000 Shoulder Harness $42.95 >31015 submarine Strap $18.95 > >Since I do not plan competetion style aerobatics, I will probably leave out >the submarine strap..not bad prices for MIL Spec webbing. they look cool >too! > >Paul Besing >RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >http://members.home.net/rv8er >Finish Kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
Date: Nov 24, 1999
>From: A20driver(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: belts for Rv's >Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:59:57 EST > > >Brian: Where is Pacific Aero Harness???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 Jim, They have a website at: http://home.att.net/~robh/ Brian Denk ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: belts for Rv's
> they are > guaranteed to fit using the attach points described in your RV plans. I purchased belts from Vans about 4 years ago and only this year decided to put a 5th point belt in. I purchased the small belt from Vans, and even though they are made by the same manufacturer as my original belts, they will not lock in with the other two belts without modification. If you decide to go with Vans 5th belt to add to your existing, be prepared to modify them. John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Re:DG Murray/Electric Flap Interference
Date: Nov 24, 1999
I'm working on the fuselage of an RV-6QB and have the same interference problem. So far the only idea I've come up with is to make a new set of C611 blocks that will add 1/2" to the distance from the F605 bulkhead while maintaining the 3 1/16 inch dimension for the vertical height for the canopy latch. This allows enough room to install the EF601 channel with the front of the lower channel brace 11 inches from the front of F605 at the floor skin. I would like to hear from anyone else whose gone through this if this will cause any problems with the the canopy latch. I'm hoping that the latch rod will still engage the canopy latch - except that there will be a slight change in the latch rod angle. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Changed mind on Simpson!
Date: Nov 24, 1999
After speaking to the fellas at Hooker Harness, they did say that they are a fine system, but there is some concerns about the fit in the RV. Specifically, he says that the adjustment pieces are difficult to get to if you have electric flaps (6 or 6A). I have revisited the idea, and think I will go with the Hookers, as you can get them for $150 each and they have cool pads that are included for that price. Not to mention, they are cut EXACTLY to fit an RV. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Changed mind on Simpson!
Date: Nov 25, 1999
The Hooker Harness is a excellent buy. I looked at a few different systems and the Hooker had the best quality. You can get a stainless steel ratchet system which really keeps you in your seat yet can be loosened for cruise flight. Customer service is also very good. C.H. ---------- > From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Changed mind on Simpson! > Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:36 PM > > > After speaking to the fellas at Hooker Harness, they did say that they are a > fine system, but there is some concerns about the fit in the RV. > Specifically, he says that the adjustment pieces are difficult to get to if > you have electric flaps (6 or 6A). I have revisited the idea, and think I > will go with the Hookers, as you can get them for $150 each and they have > cool pads that are included for that price. Not to mention, they are cut > EXACTLY to fit an RV. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://members.home.net/rv8er > Finish Kit > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 1999
From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Hangar lighting designers out there... I'm just preparing the electrical plans for my hangar, and found a good tool available from Hubbell Lighting Inc. Go to their web site... http://www.hubbel-ltg.com/ and get a copy of their catalog on a CD (called LightGear 3.0 and it's free). It has spec sheets for all of their lights, and also a handy software tool that will give the level of lighting for a given room size and fixture location. It also give the recommended light levels for all sorts of locations (aircraft hangars should have 50 ft. candles for general work, 75 ft. candles for precision work and 100 ft. candles at a work bench). For my 50 by 50 hangar space, it seems that 6 Metal Halide 'low-bay' light fixtures (from Grainger for about $200 each) will do the job mounted at 12 ft high (14 ft roof, fixtures are 2 ft deep). For now, I'm only going to use three at the rear of the hangar, and make that the "work area". One of the things the lighting designer tool does is plan lights with the correct spacing for a given height. If you space light fixtures to far apart, there will be unacceptable dark areas between lights, too high, and the overall light level will be too low. My seperate workshop area (18 x 25) will be lit with six 8 ft two tube flourescent fixtures at 13 ft high, giving 50 to 60 ft. candles over the main part of the room. The tool will print out a lighting distribution pattern so you can see how even the light level will be. A good software tool and well worth the cost...: ) Gil Alexander ... now living rurally on 7 acres at La Cholla Airpark (40E) in Tucson and building a hangar/workshop to continue my RV6A... a big change from Los Angeles...: ) ------------------------------------------------------- mailto:gila(at)flash.net Gil Alexander, Los Angeles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Re:DG Murray/Electric Flap Interference
Date: Nov 25, 1999
I had the same problem...I just made some .025 spacers and put them between the bearing block and F605. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: John Warren <jwdub(at)teleport.com> Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 12:17 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-List Re:DG Murray/Electric Flap Interference > >I'm working on the fuselage of an RV-6QB and have the same interference >problem. So far the only idea I've come up with is to make a new set of >C611 blocks that will add 1/2" to the distance from the F605 bulkhead while >maintaining the 3 1/16 inch dimension for the vertical height for the >canopy latch. This allows enough room to install the EF601 channel with >the front of the lower channel brace 11 inches from the front of F605 at >the floor skin. I would like to hear from anyone else whose gone through >this if this will cause any problems with the the canopy latch. I'm hoping >that the latch rod will still engage the canopy latch - except that there >will be a slight change in the latch rod angle. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: tech counselor
Date: Nov 25, 1999
does anybody know of an available tech counselor in the buffalo, niagara falls area of new york? I've could could use a good white glove inspection now before i close up too much. steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Tried to go to the website but no such site is found. Is the address correct? Interested future RV-6A builder Steve Hurlbut Comox, BC, Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > > Hangar lighting designers out there... > > I'm just preparing the electrical plans for my hangar, and found a good > tool available from Hubbell Lighting Inc. Go to their web site... > > http://www.hubbel-ltg.com/ > > and get a copy of their catalog on a CD (called LightGear 3.0 and it's > free). It has spec sheets for all of their lights, and also a handy > software tool that will give the level of lighting for a given room size > and fixture location. It also give the recommended light levels for all > sorts of locations (aircraft hangars should have 50 ft. candles for general > work, 75 ft. candles for precision work and 100 ft. candles at a work bench). > > For my 50 by 50 hangar space, it seems that 6 Metal Halide 'low-bay' > light fixtures (from Grainger for about $200 each) will do the job mounted > at 12 ft high (14 ft roof, fixtures are 2 ft deep). For now, I'm only > going to use three at the rear of the hangar, and make that the "work area". > > One of the things the lighting designer tool does is plan lights with the > correct spacing for a given height. If you space light fixtures to far > apart, there will be unacceptable dark areas between lights, too high, and > the overall light level will be too low. > > My seperate workshop area (18 x 25) will be lit with six 8 ft two tube > flourescent fixtures at 13 ft high, giving 50 to 60 ft. candles over the > main part of the room. The tool will print out a lighting distribution > pattern so you can see how even the light level will be. > > A good software tool and well worth the cost...: ) > > Gil Alexander > > ... now living rurally on 7 acres at La Cholla Airpark (40E) in Tucson > and building a hangar/workshop to continue my RV6A... a big change from Los > Angeles...: ) > ------------------------------------------------------- > mailto:gila(at)flash.net > Gil Alexander, > Los Angeles, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Re: Hangar lighting advice sought
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Never mind. Found the site. Need 2 ls. http://www.hubbell-lgt.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar lighting advice sought > > Hangar lighting designers out there... > > I'm just preparing the electrical plans for my hangar, and found a good > tool available from Hubbell Lighting Inc. Go to their web site... > > http://www.hubbel-ltg.com/ > > and get a copy of their catalog on a CD (called LightGear 3.0 and it's > free). It has spec sheets for all of their lights, and also a handy > software tool that will give the level of lighting for a given room size > and fixture location. It also give the recommended light levels for all > sorts of locations (aircraft hangars should have 50 ft. candles for general > work, 75 ft. candles for precision work and 100 ft. candles at a work bench). > > For my 50 by 50 hangar space, it seems that 6 Metal Halide 'low-bay' > light fixtures (from Grainger for about $200 each) will do the job mounted > at 12 ft high (14 ft roof, fixtures are 2 ft deep). For now, I'm only > going to use three at the rear of the hangar, and make that the "work area". > > One of the things the lighting designer tool does is plan lights with the > correct spacing for a given height. If you space light fixtures to far > apart, there will be unacceptable dark areas between lights, too high, and > the overall light level will be too low. > > My seperate workshop area (18 x 25) will be lit with six 8 ft two tube > flourescent fixtures at 13 ft high, giving 50 to 60 ft. candles over the > main part of the room. The tool will print out a lighting distribution > pattern so you can see how even the light level will be. > > A good software tool and well worth the cost...: ) > > Gil Alexander > > ... now living rurally on 7 acres at La Cholla Airpark (40E) in Tucson > and building a hangar/workshop to continue my RV6A... a big change from Los > Angeles...: ) > ------------------------------------------------------- > mailto:gila(at)flash.net > Gil Alexander, > Los Angeles, CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Re: tech counselor
I would start at the EAA homepage http://www.eaa.org and take the links to get a list of tech counselors. Scott Steven DiNieri wrote: > > > does anybody know of an available tech counselor in the buffalo, niagara > falls area of new york? I've could could use a good white glove inspection > now before i close up too much. > steve > > > > > > > > -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Subject: Re: RV-List Re:DG Murray/Electric Flap Interference
From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
john (and doug), i don't think you want to start changing the location of canopy latching mechanisms. instead you should alter your flap system around it. probably, if you could slide the top of the EF601 aft a little bit, then there would be no interference problem, right? however, if you try that, you soon run out of flange on the bottom of the F605, and there is nowhere to attach the top of the EF601. so what i did was to rivet a piece of angle to the inside of the F605, in effect extending the flange aftward (is that a word?). then attach the EF601 to the angle. (sorry, no pictures available.) now that you can clear the canopy latch rod, you just have to make sure that the flap control has full range of motion without scraping the inside of the EF601. to do this, you may have to alter slightly the point where the EF601 attaches to the seat pans. happy thanksgiving, louis cappucci rv6a qb mamaroneck, ny > >I'm working on the fuselage of an RV-6QB and have the same interference >problem. So far the only idea I've come up with is to make a new set of >C611 blocks that will add 1/2" to the distance from the F605 bulkhead while >maintaining the 3 1/16 inch dimension for the vertical height for the >canopy latch. This allows enough room to install the EF601 channel with >the front of the lower channel brace 11 inches from the front of F605 at >the floor skin. I would like to hear from anyone else whose gone through >this if this will cause any problems with the the canopy latch. I'm hoping >that the latch rod will still engage the canopy latch - except that there >will be a slight change in the latch rod angle. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV6-A-QB Wheelpants
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Hey Guys (Happy Turkey Day). Just thinking as i wait for my kit coming on a slow boat from Malaysia will i receive the 2-piece pants in the finishing kit? I have heard all current kits come that way. Thanks Tom in Ohio ( 362CT Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re Bets for RV's
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Rick asked if I would provide a location to buy Simpson Racing harnesses. http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/ I did a lot of research into belt systems when preparing my car and I found these to be the best. Others offer padding in the shoulder area (these do not), but the release system (I like camlock) on these are far better. Also, and most importantly, when sitting in race seats there isn't a lot of room around your hip area where you tighten the lap belts...most other belt systems were very difficult to tighten in that respect while the simpson belts are a joy. I tossed two much more expensive sets of belts that I had already bought in favor or buying the simpsons. They also have the latch type fastening systems, but they rattle when not tight. I hate rattles :) As far as attachment points go, I don't know where the RV's attach their belts (not to that point yet). In my car I've used the supplied eye bolts and ordered my belts with clip on ends that fit over the eye bolts. Wrap around ends are also available which is how I have my shoulder belts mounted (around the cage horizontal). By the way, I've worn these belts for upwards of 16 hours in a weekend and have never had a single complaint. Hope this helped a little Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: tech counselor
Date: Nov 25, 1999
I would contact Steve Yuhasz 716-692-2432 You ought to join the Chapter 46 in Buffalo then you would get their newsletter and the local help from your local chapter. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Steven DiNieri <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 1:48 AM Subject: RV-List: tech counselor > >does anybody know of an available tech counselor in the buffalo, niagara >falls area of new york? I've could could use a good white glove inspection >now before i close up too much. >steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting Fuse Angles
Greetings, In working on RV6 Fuse, I am to the point of cutting the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 Angle that goes from firewall to the 604 bulkhead at an angle (approx 28" long). I have two 10'-10" pieces of that stock left. I am always reluctant to cut the longer pieces for fear that I will need them at some later point. These seem an "odd" length, (as opposed to an even 10', or 11', or 12'), and there are 2 of them. Are these lengths needed for something in particular?? - or,... Do I cut away?? I am standing by the band saw with finger on the switch! Hoping to hear from a knowledgeable builder real soon. David Wentzell - Racine, WI P.S. Should I cut one length (28") out of each?, or doesen't it make any difference? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: WANTED: Prop for RV-3. 0-320 150 hp.
Please state particulars and firm price if possible. Robert Urban (816) 229-7888 r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net rv3(at)visto.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: THANK YOU AL MOJZISIK!!
Al M. , (and all of you who are guilt ridden), Because of your many well put messages, I have finally sent in my list contro. Prior to that, every time I'd check my e-mail I'd feel guilt for not having sent it in. Now I am relieved, - I sent it in, and it feels really good. To those of you that have not yet sent in your contro, and have this guilt every time you check your e-mail - CUT LOOSE! Do your part, and rid yourself of the guilt! David Wentzell RV6 Fuse Racine, WI Do Not Archieve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Subject: Re: Cutting Fuse Angles
In a message dated 11/25/99 10:23:28, wntzl(at)execpc.com writes: Greetings, In working on RV6 Fuse, I am to the point of cutting the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 Angle that goes from firewall to the 604 bulkhead at an angle (approx 28" long). I have two 10'-10" pieces of that stock left. I am always reluctant to cut the longer pieces for fear that I will need them at some later point. These seem an "odd" length, (as opposed to an even 10', or 11', or 12'), and there are 2 of them. Are these lengths needed for something in particular?? - or,... Do I cut away?? I am standing by the band saw with finger on the switch! Hoping to hear from a knowledgeable builder real soon. David Wentzell - Racine, WI P.S. Should I cut one length (28") out of each?, or doesen't it make any difference? >> I hate to hear of you standing around at the switch on my fav holiday. If you have done the longerons, you need no longer fear slicing angles. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Subject: Re: SEAT BELTS- Simpson Racing Products
In a message dated 11/24/1999 6:21:05 PM Central Standard Time, dirtrider(at)qnet.com writes: << SEAT BELTS -- Looks, to me, like these ought to work just fine, they are 5 point and less than $100 apiece............. >> and they weight alot more if i remember what the prior posts on this topic several months ago said ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: RV6-A-QB Wheelpants
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Tom: My RV-6AQB Finishing kit had the new two piece wheel pants, I recieved in september. Harvey Sigmon - Building Rudder ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:26 AM Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Wheelpants > > Hey Guys (Happy Turkey Day). Just thinking as i wait for my kit coming on a > slow boat from Malaysia will i receive the 2-piece pants in the finishing > kit? I have heard all current kits come that way. Thanks Tom in Ohio ( > 362CT Reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Cutting Fuse Angles
David Wentzell wrote: > I have two 10'-10" pieces of that stock left. I am always reluctant to cut the > longer pieces for fear that I will need them at some later point. These seem an > "odd" length, (as opposed to an even 10', or 11', or 12'), and there are 2 of > them. Are these lengths needed for something in particular?? - or,... Do I > cut away?? Cut them up. The 10'10" is because they're the remnants of 25' pieces -- the other 14'2" is your longerons. Check that you have enough though... I seem to have run out of 1/8" angle -- I have one piece about 50" long that I need to cut two 26 3/8" pieces out of for a seatback :-( As far as those floor stiffeners go... remember that the inboard ones are an inch or so shorter than the outboard ones, since there's more spar doublers at the middle than the outside. More info on this and other "Fuse in the Jig" issues at http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny3b.htm Frank. (skinning turtledeck, RV-6 #24692, New Zealand) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Lowrance GPS Pin Out
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Just for archive purposes, here is the pin-out info from Lowrance that you would use in connecting their GPS "Airmap" handheld to the NavAid devices wing leveler: Wire colors refer to Lowarnce's part NDC-1 part #51-92 connector cable: ($9.30 plus s/h as of 11/99) http://www.lei-extras.com to order. Pin 1 Ground Pin 2 Red - Power Pin 3 White - Transmit NMEA position information Pin 4 Green - Receive NMEA information Pin 5 Brown - Transmit RS232 (computer interface) Pin 6 Blue - Receive RS-232 (ditto) RV-6A Flying Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Construction Manuals
Date: Nov 25, 1999
Are the Construction manual / Preview plans from RV bookstore as useful as they sound before starting a project? What exactly do they contain? Steve Hurlbut Comox, BC shurlbut(at)island.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Construction Manuals
> >Are the Construction manual / Preview plans from RV bookstore as useful as >they sound before starting a project? What exactly do they contain? > >Steve Hurlbut >Comox, BC >shurlbut(at)island.net > Steve, They contain a complete Construction Manual, and reduced scale (11" x 17" instead of 24" by 36") copies of all plan sheets. They are useful to help you understand what the project entails, if that will help you make a decision as to whether to build or not. If you decide to build, each kit includes the Construction Manual chapters required for that kit, plus the full size plans sheets for that kit (i.e. if you buy the tail kit, you don't get plans sheets for the wings, fuselage, etc). The Preview plans are useful to the builder as they let him look ahead to see how various assemblies fit together - sometimes that helps you better understand the implications of small decisions that you make as you go along. For example: you screwed up and put a hole in the angle on the HS front spar slightly in the wrong place - you can look on a plans sheet in the fuselage plans to see how this angle bolts to the fuselage to see if this error in the hole placement is OK, or if you need to redo the part. My advice - every builder should buy the Preview Plans. They will probably pay for themselves over the life of the project. Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: N- number registration
Hello, A few weeks ago, someone posted a message about researching N-numbers to find out which ones were available and those that were already taken. There was a website that had this information and much, much more. I must have deleted it by mistake. If anyone has this site please post it again for me. Thanks very much. Ken Cantrell No. Ca. RV6 QB--canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-A-QB Wheelpants
Yes, you will receive the new 2-piece pants. I received mine about a month ago. They were backordered and arrived about a month after my initial finish kit. I'm still waiting for my gearleg fairings. It's not like I need them for a while. I'm trying not to cut too much on my canopy right now. It doesn't seem to fit like I hoped it would. I guess I'm just afraid of cutting too much. I think I may have cut too much off the rear (about 2 inches) and now I'm cautiously cutting the front to bring it down to meet the frame. Ken Cantrell, RV6QB - canopy ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 1999 6:26 AM Subject: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Wheelpants > > Hey Guys (Happy Turkey Day). Just thinking as i wait for my kit coming on a > slow boat from Malaysia will i receive the 2-piece pants in the finishing > kit? I have heard all current kits come that way. Thanks Tom in Ohio ( > 362CT Reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Paul and Janet Lein <lein1jd(at)cmich.edu>
Subject: Gap seal up-date
Fellow RV folks, A number of people have asked questions about the gap seals I used on the tail surfaces of my RV6A, so I thought I would share an up-date. I have been using the 1 1/2 inch wide plastic gap seal and tapes made a by a German company and sold by the company "Wings and Wheels" in Jamestown, NY. These products have a real good reputation in the glider world and I was curious to see how well they would stand up to everyday use in the powered world of an RV. I have been flying my RV6A since this summer and have just under 100 hours on the original installation of the gap seals. Today, for the first time, I had one come off. I was descending from a little over 11,000 feet with outside temperatures here in Michigan in the low 30s and was indicating just about 200 mph when I felt a brief buzz in the stick. It felt like the elevator (front to back on the stick). I immediately slowed down and did a careful check of all the control responses and everything seemed fine. When I landed I looked things over and sure enough the seal on the bottom of the right elevator had departed. I wonder if it will float to ground somewhere in Canada. It will be interesting to see if cold weather flying makes the seals come off or whether this one will be the only one I lose. On a related subject; I've heard a number of RV pilots complain about the play in the long cable actuated trim tab assembly. When my trim tab is aligned with the elevator I can move the trailing edge of it up and down by hand about a total of 1/8 inch. Is this about normal for the standard RV manual cable set-up? To me is seems strange that we are so careful counterbalancing these surfaces and flutter testing and yet still have such a sloppy trim tab. I hope you all enjoy your Thanksgiving weekend and your weather allows you to give thanks from sufficient altitude. Cheers, Paul Lein RV6A IO360 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: 12V or 24V
I'm looking for input about 12V or 24V. Which is the way to go, after checking batteries there doesn't seem to be a huge weight difference between them and the cranking power would be nice on the 24V system. Anyone have any insight on this and the avionics to come later on on a 24V system, or any negatives on a 24 V system Thanks.. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Wings Bonnyville, AB http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: 12V or 24V
Date: Nov 25, 1999
24 volt batteries are very expensive. They only last about as long as a 12 volt. If you need to put your battery behind the seat, then you can save a little weight by using smaller cable with the 24 volt. Some radios and instruments are more expensive in the 24 volt version. Starter and alternator might be more expensive also. Kind of hard to jump start your airplane from your car as well. I don't think that you will gain much in starting power. Volts times amps is power. The battery will have twice the volts but half the storage or amps. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:25 PM Subject: RV-List: 12V or 24V > >I'm looking for input about 12V or 24V. Which is the way to go, after >checking batteries there doesn't seem to be a huge weight difference >between them and the cranking power would be nice on the 24V system. >Anyone have any insight on this and the avionics to come later on on a >24V system, or any negatives on a 24 V system Thanks.. > >Dave Hrycauk >RV-8 Wings >Bonnyville, AB >http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: N Number Search
Date: Nov 25, 1999
You can find and N# search at .... http://www.landings.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 1999
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Gap seal up-date
I dont think its weather related. I've lost one of mine but it was during the summer. Funny thing tho: mine was the bottom right elevator also. I think there's a story there somewhere. Any of you areodynamic experts care to offer an opinion? Tom RV3 Northern California Paul and Janet Lein wrote: > > Fellow RV folks, > A number of people have asked questions about the gap seals I used on > the tail surfaces of my RV6A, so I thought I would share an up-date. I > have been using the 1 1/2 inch wide plastic gap seal and tapes made a by > a German company and sold by the company "Wings and Wheels" in > Jamestown, NY. These products have a real good reputation in the glider > world and I was curious to see how well they would stand up to everyday > use in the powered world of an RV. I have been flying my RV6A since this > summer and have just under 100 hours on the original installation of the > gap seals. Today, for the first time, I had one come off. I was > descending from a little over 11,000 feet with outside temperatures here > in Michigan in the low 30s and was indicating just about 200 mph when I > felt a brief buzz in the stick. It felt like the elevator (front to back > on the stick). I immediately slowed down and did a careful check of all > the control responses and everything seemed fine. When I landed I looked > things over and sure enough the seal on the bottom of the right elevator > had departed. I wonder if it will float to ground somewhere in Canada. > > It will be interesting to see if cold weather flying makes the seals > come off or whether this one will be the only one I lose. > > On a related subject; I've heard a number of RV pilots complain about > the play in the long cable actuated trim tab assembly. When my trim tab > is aligned with the elevator I can move the trailing edge of it up and > down by hand about a total of 1/8 inch. Is this about normal for the > standard RV manual cable set-up? To me is seems strange that we are so > careful counterbalancing these surfaces and flutter testing and yet > still have such a sloppy trim tab. > > I hope you all enjoy your Thanksgiving weekend and your weather allows > you to give thanks from sufficient altitude. > > Cheers, > Paul Lein > RV6A IO360 flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Gap seal up-date
In a message dated 11/25/99 22:49:30, bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes: I dont think its weather related. I've lost one of mine but it was during the summer. Funny thing tho: mine was the bottom right elevator also. I think there's a story there somewhere. Any of you areodynamic experts care to offer an opinion? Tom >> I am not an airodynamicist but have passed a lot of air in my day. I have also observed the only cracking of elevator skins I have been able to pin down were also on the right. The only thing I can offer is that the left is more rigid due to the extra spar for the trim tab. I would then stretch even further and opine that vibration is going to be greater on the right side, when excitation occurs, even though it may be induced by the loose trim tab.,on the other side! I eagerly await any informed opinions. (as oposed to mine) DL Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Gap seal up-date
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
> On a related subject; I've heard a number of RV pilots complain > about > the play in the long cable actuated trim tab assembly. When my trim > tab > is aligned with the elevator I can move the trailing edge of it up > and > down by hand about a total of 1/8 inch. Is this about normal for the > standard RV manual cable set-up? - Yes it is about normal. It can very to some degree if the clevis pin is not tight in the clevis and the trim tab control arm. - >To me is seems strange that we are > so > careful counterbalancing these surfaces and flutter testing and yet > still have such a sloppy trim tab. Your right, but hundreds (thousand(s) ) are flying this way with no problems When the ground vibration fluter analysis was done on the RV-8A (manual trim) this raised some eyebrows with the test engineers. The left elevator and trim tab were part of the overall test, and they found absolutely no problem with it. Scott McDaniels North Plains, OR These opinions and ideas are my own and may not reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Gary Zilik's RV6 Web Site
If you haven't seen it yet, you should check out Gary Zilik's RV6 web site at: http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/index.html Having these web sites to refer to sometimes makes the difference between being able to complete a task today or having to wait until Monday to call Van's. A picture is worth a thousand MINUTES on the phone. Very nicely put together Gary!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Mark Snow <marksnow(at)cavemen.net>
Subject: Avery c-frame tool
Listers, I have an Avery c-frame tool for sale with some accessories for $80.00. E-mail me off list if interested. Mark Snow ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: 12V or 24V
Thanks Cy, so short of that, there is really not that much of an operating advantage between the two. I'm going to have to decide now if I am going to exchange my 24V heated pitot for a 12V one. Thanks, Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Wings Bonnyville, AB http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm Cy Galley wrote: > > 24 volt batteries are very expensive. They only last about as long as a 12 > volt. If you need to put your battery behind the seat, then you can save a > little weight by using smaller cable with the 24 volt. Some radios and > instruments are more expensive in the 24 volt version. Starter and > alternator might be more expensive also. Kind of hard to jump start your > airplane from your car as well. I don't think that you will gain much in > starting power. Volts times amps is power. The battery will have twice the > volts but half the storage or amps. > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> > To: RV-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:25 PM > Subject: RV-List: 12V or 24V > > > > >I'm looking for input about 12V or 24V. Which is the way to go, after > >checking batteries there doesn't seem to be a huge weight difference > >between them and the cranking power would be nice on the 24V system. > >Anyone have any insight on this and the avionics to come later on on a > >24V system, or any negatives on a 24 V system Thanks.. > > > >Dave Hrycauk > >RV-8 Wings > >Bonnyville, AB > >http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Attaching Rudder Fairing to Bottom of Rudder
Date: Nov 26, 1999
I used #8 screws for this fairing. I have not yet countersunk the holes, but I expect to in the future. I did not countersink them because I drilled them out to #29 before realizing that I did not have a piloted countersink that big? Usually I do the countersinking before enlarging the hole from #30 to its finished size. I should have known better. I plan to use stainless steel countersink washers under the #8 screw heads to help prevent strain on the fiberglass and subsequent cracking. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Empennage fairing -----Original Message----- If anyone has some experience (good or bad) in this area please drop me an email. I have the fairing cut and fit and the tail strobe installed. Since I have a light in there Im going to make it removable. My options seem to be sheet metal screws or some #6 machine screws and nut plates. Im leaning towards machine screws and nut plates, but Im thinking I may have to use the non-countersunk variety. (the joint is fiberglass over alum. and countersinking in the fiberglass makes me think I may get some cracking later on). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Attaching Rudder Fairing to Bottom of Rudder
Date: Nov 26, 1999
> >I used #8 screws for this fairing. I have not yet countersunk the holes, >but I expect to in the future. I did not countersink them because I drilled >them out to #29 before realizing that I did not have a piloted countersink >that big? Usually I do the countersinking before enlarging the hole from >#30 to its finished size. I should have known better. > >I plan to use stainless steel countersink washers under the #8 screw heads >to help prevent strain on the fiberglass and subsequent cracking. > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >Empennage fairing > I would highly recommend the use of Tinnerman washers under the screws. One of our local pilots had the fiberglass spinner come off his prop while in flight. The flathead screws pulled through the fiberglass and allowed the spinner to pull free. The resulting damage to his prop almost shook the engine off the aircraft. The trailing edge of one blade was broken off and missing upon landing. I had not used washers on my spinner until that incident. I immediately checked my spinner and found significant wear on the holes. This with only taxi testing, BTW. John Ammeter Seattle WA USA http://members.home.net/ammeterj/ 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: 12V or 24V
Date: Nov 26, 1999
I think I've been told that the heaters are replaceable so that you can change it from 24 to 12 volt. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> Date: Friday, November 26, 1999 1:10 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 12V or 24V > >Thanks Cy, so short of that, there is really not that much of an operating >advantage between the two. I'm going to have to decide now if I am going to >exchange my 24V heated pitot for a 12V one. > >Thanks, >Dave Hrycauk >RV-8 Wings >Bonnyville, AB >http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm > >Cy Galley wrote: > >> >> 24 volt batteries are very expensive. They only last about as long as a 12 >> volt. If you need to put your battery behind the seat, then you can save a >> little weight by using smaller cable with the 24 volt. Some radios and >> instruments are more expensive in the 24 volt version. Starter and >> alternator might be more expensive also. Kind of hard to jump start your >> airplane from your car as well. I don't think that you will gain much in >> starting power. Volts times amps is power. The battery will have twice the >> volts but half the storage or amps. >> >> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> >> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:25 PM >> Subject: RV-List: 12V or 24V >> >> > >> >I'm looking for input about 12V or 24V. Which is the way to go, after >> >checking batteries there doesn't seem to be a huge weight difference >> >between them and the cranking power would be nice on the 24V system. >> >Anyone have any insight on this and the avionics to come later on on a >> >24V system, or any negatives on a 24 V system Thanks.. >> > >> >Dave Hrycauk >> >RV-8 Wings >> >Bonnyville, AB >> >http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm >> > >> > >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Canopy exit tool
Date: Nov 26, 1999
A while back there was a lot of list traffic about a suitable tool to (heaven forbid) break the canopy in event of need for an hasty exit. I just received a Harbor Freight Catalog that just may have the idea tool for only$9.99. Its part number 40610-0VGA and is described as: "... Use the hammer to break the glass when trapped inside, and the serrated knife to slice through seat belts....". It has a pointed and flat hammer face at one end (with cap for pointed face) and serrated knife blade at other end, 7" long overall. It comes with mounting bracket. and can be found at www.harborfreight.com with part number 40610 Ed Anderson Matthews NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Subject: Re: Attaching Rudder Fairing to Bottom of Rudder
<< If anyone has some experience (good or bad) in this area please drop me an email. I have the fairing cut and fit and the tail strobe installed. Since I have a light in there Im going to make it removable. My options seem to be >> Another solution is to simply pop rivet the fairing on. To service the light, do the following: 1) When you run the wires into the tail, leave about 6-8" of slack. 2) Remove the empennage fairing (the one that fairs the HS, VS, & fuse) and make a loop in your wires where you can reach it through the openings around the HS and VS. Secure the loop, taking out most of the slack. Refit the fairing. When you go to service the lights (or the rudder), loosen whatever you use to hold the loop in the wires and pull the light out the back of the rudder. If you need to remove the rudder, simply disconnect the wires from the light, and the rudder will come off easily. IMO, this is a simpler solution than adding nutplates. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Subject: KLX-135 manual?
OK listers, I have a used KLX135, non moving map, GPS com. I need an operation manual. I have emailed King to no avail. I have minimal ideas as to which buttons do what. I need a kind soul to: Scan and zip email to me... fax me one ..... Or Give me a part number so I can just order one from my local FBO (read big $$) I would like to change the units from knots to MPH. I was bummed just for a second when I read 170 in cruise then I saw it was in knots. Then looking to my airspeed saw converted it was darned near 200mph. COOL! Thanks David McManmon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: THANK YOU AL MOJZISIK!!
> >Al M. , (and all of you who are guilt ridden), > Because of your many well put messages, I have finally sent in my list >contro. Prior to that, every time I'd check my e-mail I'd feel guilt for not >having sent it in. Now I am relieved, - I sent it in, and it feels really >good. > To those of you that have not yet sent in your contro, and have this guilt >every time you check your e-mail - CUT LOOSE! Do your part, and rid yourself >of the guilt! > David Wentzell > RV6 Fuse > Racine, WI Do Not Archieve > David, Now this is what I live for! To see someone move from the ranks of the unwashed to preaching the Gospel! To see a person leave the dark, dirty underworld and walk in the light with the rest of us who have done our List duty. Someone who can now look himself in the mirror and say, "I AM SOMBODY !, I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT."......HALLELUJIAH!! (I looked up the spelling.) Don't you wish YOU could be so happy? So carefree? So guilt free? Well brothers and sisters, I'm here to tell you that you too can walk among the living......you can rivet once again with precision.....you can cut on that plexiglass with a steady hand and clear conscience and get it done with total concentration on the job at hand! No more guilt ! No more hiding your face ! No more dreading downloading your E-Mail! All you have to do is click on the URL below and get out you credit card or write out that check and send it to the address below. That's all....nothing more....just one simple and deliberate act of kindness an act of rightiousness! You can do it! You have it in you! You can walk in the footsteps of all that have gone before you and gotten it overwith BEFORE they became laden with guilt and shame......But it's not too late! Your salvation is but a short moment away!.....don't delay!.....do it now and shout out to the heavens........I AM SOMBODY !!!......I HAVE CONTRIBUTED !!! And when your wife or husband comes into the room to find out what all the noise was about just say, "Oh nothing, I uh,.....I uh,......uh.......what noise?" That should get you certified so you will be excused to the shop for the rest of the night. (I told you I needed material!) Now get on it! AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Construction Manuals
Date: Nov 26, 1999
On Thursday, November 25, 1999 5:15 PM Steve Hurlbut wrote: Are the Construction manual / Preview plans from RV bookstore as useful as > they sound before starting a project? What exactly do they contain? Steve: I'd recommend them to anyone considering building an RV. They contain a complete set of drawings for the aircraft and a complete set of builder's instructions. Mine was shipped with an Accesories Catalog. It'll give you a clear idea of what's involved in building the aircraft (though you'll appreciate it more after you have some experience building, say, the empennage. It's a continuing useful reference in "looking ahead" to understand how what you're doing now fits into the total aircraft structure. I keep mine in the house and find it very useful when I'm thinking about a job...don't have to trot out to the shop and rustle through a bunchof D size drawings...they're all right there neatly folded inside an 8 1/2 x 11 binder. George Kilishek #80006 fuselage- controls ----- Original Message ----- From: <shurlbut(at)island.net> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 1999 5:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Construction Manuals > > > > Steve Hurlbut > Comox, BC > shurlbut(at)island.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Subject: Aileron Spar
Quick question: On the aileron spar hinge doublers, the drawing is a bit confusing to me. Does the doubler lay on the spar with the steel hinges on top with nothing else attached there? There are some other hidden lines that I think are the attach points on the wing and are for reference. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave Funk, Elevators, wings, and everything else. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Flaring Tool Wanted
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone who is done "Building" has a flaring tool that they would like to sell ? I hate to pay $70.00 plus dollars for a $20.00 automotive tool that is 37 degrees VS. 45 degrees. Thanks Tom in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou - was A Thank You,
from Gary Zilik I got stuffed and am feeling thankful! Thanks to all who, instead of hitting delete, take the time and mental effort to help others! I get nothing from our newspaper subscription, little from AOPA tho I know they are helping me, a bit more from cable, a lot from Sport Aviation but I can't wait to get on to the rvlist and hear from some awesome experts. SO, CONTRIBUTE! Since there is no contribution to individual contributors, just a big thanks, you know you've done good!! hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Flaring Tool Wanted
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Ask your local EAA Chapter. They might have a tool library. My Chapter 75 does. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) -----Original Message----- From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> Date: Friday, November 26, 1999 7:40 PM Subject: RV-List: Flaring Tool Wanted > >Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone who is done "Building" has a flaring >tool that they would like to sell ? I hate to pay $70.00 plus dollars for >a $20.00 automotive tool that is 37 degrees VS. 45 degrees. Thanks Tom in >Ohio > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com>
Subject: EGT readings
I have an RV6 with O-320-D2J 160hp wood prop. I think it is running too lean. I have drilled out the main carb jet from the standard #43 to #40 drill bit size. At 60% (2200 @ 22 map) I have approx 100 degree range from rich to peak EGT (except cylinder #3 which is only 35 degree difference). This gap decreases as power increases, at 2500 rpm and 25 map (83% power) there is little difference between rich and lean. I am thinking of drilling out the jet further. Any comments. I have attached a Microsoft Excel V4.0 graphs with my results.Sorry no attachment the list wont accept it, something to do with MIME, first time I tried to do an attachment too. Looking for further comments and experiences. Regards Peter C-GFLG Brampton Ontario ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Subject: rudder/ VS gap
Hello Listers. I'm doing the trial fit of the rudder skeleton to the VS, and I can't find any reference in the plans to the proper gap between the rudder and VS, and between the leading edge of the rudder counterbalance skin and the VS, or for that matter the depth of the rod end bearings in the rudder. Is there an exact measurement somewhere that I'm not seeing, or do you just adjust the rod end bearings to make it fit? Oh, I guess it would help- this is the new RV6 counterbalanced rudder, same as the -8, I think. Jeff Point jpoint(at)execpc.com -6 tail Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Now you Know!!!!
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Listers, As this annual RV-list fund-raiser comes to a close I felt you all deserved to know the poor soul that has given so unselfishly to the greater good by sharing his poetic wisdom with us all to keep the list alive. Many of you may think that Al Mojzisik is one of those guys who owns a barn full of airplanes etc. You probably thought that he went to Osh Kosh in a Prevost Conversion Bus and dined with the Pobers at the Pioneer Inn every night. All of this is wrong, and I have the proof! I have, because of a very expensive bribe, acquired a real live photograph of our "Fearless Funder." It is with much trepidation (there is a $.50 word) that I share this "Top Secret" information with this list!!!! In reality our "Funder" lives at OSH in a camp like a refugee from East Timor. You will find this Top Secret information at the site listed below!!!! http://www.petroblend.com/dougr/rvfund.htm/OSHref1.jpg IF this poor soul can contribute, SO CAN YOU!!!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html Tailwinds Doug Rozendaal www.petroblend.com/dougr dougr(at)petroblend.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 1999
From: Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com>
Subject: Re: rudder/ VS gap
Jeff Point wrote: > Oh, I guess it would help- this is the new RV6 counterbalanced rudder, > same as the -8, I think. > Huh?? I didn't hear anything about this.....Anybody got any details? Tom Glover Surrey BC Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: rudder/ VS gap
> >Hello Listers. > >I'm doing the trial fit of the rudder skeleton to the VS, and I can't >find any reference in the plans to the proper gap between the rudder and >VS, and between the leading edge of the rudder counterbalance skin and >the VS, or for that matter the depth of the rod end bearings in the >rudder. Is there an exact measurement somewhere that I'm not seeing, or >do you just adjust the rod end bearings to make it fit? > >Oh, I guess it would help- this is the new RV6 counterbalanced rudder, >same as the -8, I think. > >Jeff Point Jeff, On the RV-8 plans, this info is found at the lower left corner of sheet 6. The distance between the aft face of the VS spar, and forward face of the rudder spar is 2" at the top, and 2.5" at the bottom. Some RV-8 builders have reported that if they use those distances that they don't get enough thread engagement at the rod ends, so they simply screwed the rod ends in a bit more. I should be rolling and riveting my rudder leading edge this weekend, so I guess I'll find out myself. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: rudder/ VS gap
> > Jeff Point wrote: > > > Oh, I guess it would help- this is the new RV6 counterbalanced > rudder, > > same as the -8, I think. > > > Huh?? I didn't hear anything about this.....Anybody got any details? > > Tom Glover > Surrey BC Canada Was mentioned in the last RVator - they're shipping -8 empennage kits for -6 kits. They are doing it for parts commonality and they like the way a six handles with the larger tail. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Wings Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: Gap seal up-date
Date: Nov 26, 1999
I have noticed through the years that most RH elevators and stabilizers have more problems. My thinking is that it has something to do with the prop wash as it rotates around the aircraft. **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: <BumFlyer(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 1999 8:46 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Gap seal up-date > > > In a message dated 11/25/99 22:49:30, bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes: > > > I dont think its weather related. I've lost one of mine but > it was during the summer. Funny thing tho: mine was the bottom > right elevator also. I think there's a story there somewhere. > Any of you areodynamic experts care to offer an opinion? > > Tom >> > > I am not an airodynamicist but have passed a lot of air in my day. > > I have also observed the only cracking of elevator skins I have been able to > pin down were also on the right. The only thing I can offer is that the left > is more rigid due to the extra spar for the trim tab. I would then stretch > even further and opine that vibration is going to be greater on the right > side, when excitation occurs, even though it may be induced by the loose trim > tab.,on the other side! > > I eagerly await any informed opinions. (as oposed to mine) > > DL Walsh > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net>
Subject: Re: EGT readings
Date: Nov 26, 1999
Peter, You can keep increasing the jet size. You should get 150 degree rise. Try going up another size. I have some running at a #36 drill. **** Bryan E. Files **** Ever Fly Maintenance Palmer, Alaska A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net ----- Original Message ----- From: bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 5:00 PM Subject: RV-List: EGT readings > > I have an RV6 with O-320-D2J 160hp wood prop. I think it is running too > lean. I have drilled out the main carb jet from the standard #43 to #40 > drill bit size. At 60% (2200 @ 22 map) I have approx 100 degree range > from rich to peak EGT (except cylinder #3 which is only 35 degree > difference). This gap decreases as power increases, at 2500 rpm and 25 > map (83% power) there is little difference between rich and lean. > I am thinking of drilling out the jet further. Any comments. > > I have attached a Microsoft Excel V4.0 graphs with my results.Sorry no > attachment the list wont accept it, something to do with MIME, first > time I tried to do an attachment too. > > Looking for further comments and experiences. > > Regards Peter C-GFLG Brampton Ontario > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 1999
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: rudder/ VS gap
Stupid question but I ran in exactly the same problem. How *does* one determine if the rod ends are in far enough?? count rotations??, touchy-feely and wait for resistance ?? when one screws the rod ends in further, does one adhere to the relative difference of 0.5" top/bottom ?? Now that all these parts are pre-punched, shouldn't all rv emp's have the same problem ?? Gert 80721, winging it. Kevin Horton wrote: > > > > > >Hello Listers. > > > >I'm doing the trial fit of the rudder skeleton to the VS, and I can't > >find any reference in the plans to the proper gap between the rudder and > >VS, and between the leading edge of the rudder counterbalance skin and > >the VS, or for that matter the depth of the rod end bearings in the > >rudder. Is there an exact measurement somewhere that I'm not seeing, or > >do you just adjust the rod end bearings to make it fit? > > > >Oh, I guess it would help- this is the new RV6 counterbalanced rudder, > >same as the -8, I think. > > > >Jeff Point > > Jeff, >


November 20, 1999 - November 26, 1999

RV-Archive.digest.vol-hj