RV-Archive.digest.vol-hk
November 26, 1999 - December 03, 1999
> On the RV-8 plans, this info is found at the lower left corner of
> sheet 6. The distance between the aft face of the VS spar, and
> forward face of the rudder spar is 2" at the top, and 2.5" at the
> bottom. Some RV-8 builders have reported that if they use those
> distances that they don't get enough thread engagement at the rod
> ends, so they simply screwed the rod ends in a bit more. I should be
> rolling and riveting my rudder leading edge this weekend, so I guess
> I'll find out myself.
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KLX-135 manual? |
In a message dated 11/26/99 3:51:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RV6160hp(at)aol.com writes:
<< I would like to change the units from knots to MPH. >>
I don't think you can. I have the KLX-135A with moving map and there is
nothing in the manual that addresses this. I just convert by looking at the
face of my ASI that has MPH on the outer and Knots on the inner scale. No
big deal.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/26/99 6:44:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Arzflyer(at)aol.com writes:
<< does anyone have phone number or address for Bogart Aviation for towbar
info. >>
From the Yeller Pages
BOGERT AVIATION 509-736-1513 <http://maxpages.com/maxpage.cgi/bogertaviation>
BOGI-BAR RV-6A TOWBAR
Bogart is the "here's lookin' at you, kid" guy with the cigarette and Lauren
Bacall.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avery c-frame tool |
If it isn't sold I'll take it.
John L. Danielson
3219 Aspen Drive
Casper, WY 82601
307-473-1012
Jdaniel343(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>I'm looking for input about 12V or 24V. Which is the way to go, after
>checking batteries there doesn't seem to be a huge weight difference
>between them and the cranking power would be nice on the 24V system.
>Anyone have any insight on this and the avionics to come later on on a
>24V system, or any negatives on a 24 V system Thanks.
One big advantage to 12v as I see it is that it gives you the option of
using automotive things, like if you ever put in CD player or something, or
just if your battery needs a charge you can use an automotive charger.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (45 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/26/99 22:23:53, randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< One big advantage to 12v as I see it is that it gives you the option of
using automotive things, like if you ever put in CD player or something, or
just if your battery needs a charge you can use an automotive charger.
>>
I would add several automotive things to this list like starters and
alternators, and $15 voltage regulators,cigarette lighter recepts for
accessories, auto landing lights, nav lights, various internal lighing
options, Van's electric flaps, trim., gages etc................
oh well I think you get the idea.: however I do note that the new garmin $9K
marvelous GPS/ILS/Comm/VOR/interphone only comes in 24V. Maybe Electric bob
could come up with a system which uses both batteries to give 24 for some few
avionics and flight gyros, whilst keeping all the mundane stuff on the main
batt for 12V??
When I day dream I like to dream big.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
Buy the automotive one and grind it to 37 degrees.
Finn
Tom Ervin wrote:
>
> Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone who is done "Building" has a flaring
> tool that they would like to sell ? I hate to pay $70.00 plus dollars for
> a $20.00 automotive tool that is 37 degrees VS. 45 degrees. Thanks Tom in
> Ohio
>
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder/ VS gap |
. . .or for that matter the depth of the rod end bearings in the
>rudder.
>Jeff Point
Jeff;
Someone posted this awhile back; the distance from the centerline of the
rod end bearings to the spar web is as follows: top - 13/16, middle - 7/8,
bottom - 15/16. Mine seemed to fit well using these dimensions.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q 80591
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KLX-135 manual? |
David
ESSCO, INC. (the manual people) has reprints of most of the avionics manuals.
Phone 330-644-7724, E-mail esscoeast(at)aol.com. I paid $15.00 for a reprint
of my transponder installation manual.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB Canopy done, installing systems
RV6160hp(at)aol.com writes:
<<
OK listers, I have a used KLX135, non moving map, GPS com.
I need an operation manual. I have emailed King to no avail. I have
minimal
ideas as to which buttons do what.
I need a kind soul to:
Scan and zip email to me...
fax me one .....
Or
Give me a part number so I can just order one from my local FBO (read big
$$)
I would like to change the units from knots to MPH.
I was bummed just for a second when I read 170 in cruise then I saw it was
in
knots. Then looking to my airspeed saw converted it was darned near 200mph.
COOL!
Thanks
David McManmon
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
The real problem with the automotive EVEN if you grind it to 37 degrees, is
the rings it leaves indented in your tubing from the clamp. The tubing will
can and do fail at these rings or scratches. They are stress riser points.
I know of at least one plane that lost its oil from a broken line and killed
all aboard in the emergency landing.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaring Tool Wanted
>
>Buy the automotive one and grind it to 37 degrees.
>
>Finn
>
>Tom Ervin wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone who is done "Building" has a flaring
>> tool that they would like to sell ? I hate to pay $70.00 plus dollars
for
>> a $20.00 automotive tool that is 37 degrees VS. 45 degrees. Thanks Tom
in
>> Ohio
>>
>>
>
>NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Spar |
dave
sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, check out figure 7-10 in the
wing section, middle right of page ( assuming your building a 6 ) if this
doesn't clear it up for you , e-mail me directly, i will explain it in detail.
good luck
scott
tampa
fuse comming ouyt of jig this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 11/24/99 |
| From: | Watson(at)earthlink.net, Bill <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
Another responder, and I, and maybe others, did the same thing: I fab'd
a small plate that is riveted to the lower flange of the 605 (extending
to the rear about an inch). The forward channel of the flap assembly
attaches to this plate (with plate nuts), using the same small angle that
comes with the kit. It lowers and moves the channel to the rear, just
missing the canapy latching bar. The canapy latching mechanism can then
be left as is.
>I'm working on the fuselage of an RV-6QB and have the same interference
>problem. So far the only idea I've come up with is to make a new set of
>C611 blocks that will add 1/2" to the distance from the F605 bulkhead while
>maintaining the 3 1/16 inch dimension for the vertical height for the
>canopy latch. This allows enough room to install the EF601 channel with
Good luck,
Bill Watson 6A
Working on canapy frame, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | snow on the runway |
I went to the airport this morning, but when I got there elected not to fly. The
runway was covered with about an inch of unbroken crusty snow overlying a pretty
slick glaze of ice.
On driving home I started to feel that I was just being a big chicken and that
should have taken out my very capable aircraft and enjoyed the smooth morning
air.
At the airport, I questioned the amount of directional control I would have with
the wheels plowing through the crust. On one hand I thought that with the prop
blast or any amount of airspeed over the rudder it would be no different than
any other soft field operation, although perhaps using up a little more runway.
On the other hand, I feared that as the wheels moved between different textures
and thicknesses of snow and ice, ground control would have been very difficult.
As it was clear that no one else had flown over the past couple of days, I
decided to go home.
Now, other than the "prudence is good" bit, which I already know (proof of which
is my writing of this post), what I would like to know from anyone who has flown
RVs in these conditions is whether my concern was justified.
Once again, please; I'm not looking for praise for being overcautious. I'm
really just hoping for an accurate technical analysis of what to expect in these
conditions.
(I have flown my ultralight on loose snow and it did tend to yaw back and forth
a bit on takeoff, but it has so much control, that I never thought of it as much
of a problem. Landings in snow were little more than a short skid. (Yes, its
true, except for in very turbulent air, the ultralight is far more precise and
controllable than the RV.))
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stab Questions |
Hello Listers,
I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I have
a couple of questions:
What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will keep
the rod bearings from rotating? And, how tight is tight enough for the
jam nuts?
In this application, at what point is the rod end bearing backed out of
the nut plate too far? I am wondering because it appears I will need to
back the bearings out more than the plans require: 1) at the inboard
hinge (out 1/16" more)to keep the rolled leading edge of the elevators
from rubbing against the hz stab spar and 2) at the outboard hinge (out
2/16" more)to align the tips of the elevator and stab. So it appears
that I will have about 1/8" inch of threads through the backside of the
nutplate at the outboard location.
Is there a compelling reason to drill the control horn hole through the
central bearing now, rather than later when the whole assembly is on the
fuse? The only reason I thought of for doing it now is to be able to
bolt the control horns together in order to be able to balance both
elevators as a single unit before the fairings are pop riveted into
place. However, I have attached the fairings with nutplates so I can
fine tune the elevator balance later (possibly after painting) and so I
can check the bolt torque on the lead counterweights at each annual
condition inspection. So, do I need to drill this control horn hole
right now or can it wait till later (when, hopefully, I am a more
skilled builder)?
Okay, one last question, should the elevators be balanced "to be in
trail" as a unit or individually? My left elevator with the servo is
heavy (trails down) and my right elevator is light (trails up). Adding
or subtracting lead to each side depends upon which approach I take. Is
it best to balance the elevators as unit?
Thanks
Mark Gilbert
RV6A
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Alumaprep and Alodyne rinse removal |
After rinsing alumaprep and alodyne off treated parts, how do you get rid
of the rinse water? Can I just hose off the parts in my driveway and let
the runoff go into the gutter or will I end up with stains on my driveway?
If I dip the parts in a rinsing basin, is the rinsewater diluted enough
that it's OK to pour it directly into the sewer? I live in an
environmentally sensitive neighborhood so I don't want this to become a
problem with my neighbors.
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
Building RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Removing deep scratches from parts |
When shaping and deburring parts, is it absolutely necessary to remove
every single scratch? Sometimes it seems like every time I sand with emery
cloth or rub with scotchbrite, I remove some scratches but add a few new
ones. It seems like there are always a few deep scratches that are very
smooth but not completely removed. Will these potentially cause cracking?
Any suggestions from experienced builders?
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
Building RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | How easy is the RV9A? |
For those of you who are wondering just how easy it is to build an RV-9A,
here are my impressions after spending about 25 hours with the kit.
In the true tradition of most neophyte builders, I've made my first
mistake. Step 2 in the plans is to fabricate two horizontal stabilizer
attachment angles from a piece of 2 x 2.5" aluminum angle. Getting out my
trusty hacksaw, I cut the angle to size, but after deburring and smoothing
I ended up with a part that was quite a bit undersized. I did much better
on my second attempt, but I need to order a new piece of angle to replace
the material I messed up on my first try.
On a more positive note, I haven't studied every part yet, but looking at
the plans it does appear that most of the parts are pre-drilled. I thought
I could get away without having to do any fluting but that's not true.
Although the horizontal stabilizer skeleton is pre-fluted, some of the
other skeleton parts will need to be fluted.
Like any kit, there's plenty of stuff that needs to be deburred and
smoothed. You also have to build a jig or two to hold the parts during
assembly.
Perhaps what's most unusual about the kit is the control surface skins. All
of them except the trim tab are riveted together at the trailing edge. The
elevator is first riveted to the top of the front spar with solid rivets,
then you curve the leading edge of the skin around the front spar and rivet
it to the bottom of the spar with pop rivets. Last of all you rivet the top
and bottom trailing edges together with solid rivets.
The rudder has two skins, one for each side. You use solid rivets to attach
the skins to the spar and you also use solid rivets to attach both skins
together at the trailing edge. You then form the curve of the leading edge
in the usual way and fasten the two sides together with pop rivets.
Yes, you still have to build a homemade bending brake for the elevator trim
tab, although you don't need to use the brake on the elevator or rudder
trailing edges.
The vertical stabilizer appears to be exactly the same as the vertical
stabilizer used on the RV-6 and RV-8. The skeleton isn't pre-punched and
the plans seem to indicate that the same parts are used for all 3 designs.
So far I've been very impressed with the quality of the parts. Everything
survived the trip from Oregon to California via UPS and there are minimal
scratches or flaws. The powder coating looks good, although there are a few
small spots I'd like to touch up.
I was actually ready to order an RV-6A last spring but decided to wait for
the RV-9A. I thought the RV9A was more suited to my abilities as a pilot
and I wanted to build a kit with as many pre-punched parts as possible. My
initial impression is that the RV9A was worth the wait! It seems like Van
and his staff have done everything they can to make building this kit as
easy as possible.
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
Building RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Spar |
Thanks Scott, I'll look this afternoon. Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Solenoid Priming |
Listers,
We haven't had much cool weather yet in NM. Will be around 80 again today
but some of the mornings are starting to be a bit chilly.
I have no feel at all for how much my solenoid primer with a carburated
engine is delivering. It seems like I have to end up pumping the throttle
to get it started quickly and I am trying to avoid that.
I have tried 2 seconds of prime and 5 seconds. Can anyone give me an order
of magnitude idea of how long you have to activate the primer on this type
system for, say, a 35 degree start?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP (Paint shop on Monday) 105 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: snow on the runway |
Better to be a live chicken, Than a DEAD DUCK!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 11:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: snow on the runway
>
>I went to the airport this morning, but when I got there elected not to
fly. The
>runway was covered with about an inch of unbroken crusty snow overlying a
pretty
>slick glaze of ice.
>
>On driving home I started to feel that I was just being a big chicken and
that
>should have taken out my very capable aircraft and enjoyed the smooth
morning
>air.
>
>At the airport, I questioned the amount of directional control I would have
with
>the wheels plowing through the crust. On one hand I thought that with the
prop
>blast or any amount of airspeed over the rudder it would be no different
than
>any other soft field operation, although perhaps using up a little more
runway.
>On the other hand, I feared that as the wheels moved between different
textures
>and thicknesses of snow and ice, ground control would have been very
difficult.
>As it was clear that no one else had flown over the past couple of days, I
>decided to go home.
>
>Now, other than the "prudence is good" bit, which I already know (proof of
which
>is my writing of this post), what I would like to know from anyone who has
flown
>RVs in these conditions is whether my concern was justified.
>
>Once again, please; I'm not looking for praise for being overcautious. I'm
>really just hoping for an accurate technical analysis of what to expect in
these
>conditions.
>
>
>(I have flown my ultralight on loose snow and it did tend to yaw back and
forth
>a bit on takeoff, but it has so much control, that I never thought of it as
much
>of a problem. Landings in snow were little more than a short skid. (Yes,
its
>true, except for in very turbulent air, the ultralight is far more precise
and
>controllable than the RV.))
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solenoid Priming |
I have an O-320 carbureated engine with the electric solenoid used to prime
two cylinders....I have settled on a count of 1 to 7 while holding in the
electric valve,,,, that results in starts in hot or cold weather....since
adding electronic igintion on one side (right mag) starts are much faster -
first blade often - but I still give it a good shot of gas....a quick count
to 7 does it.!
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: digital compass |
Tom,
The Compass is Ritchie Model No. M-2.
I finally found the Ritchie web page:-
http://ritchienavigation.com/mseries.htm
The West Marine page is:-
http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr 1&pr
http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr 1&prrf
nbr=10331
I this does not work, from the West Marine home page go to on-line store
then do a search for West Marine's Product number 239320.
I can not find a specification for accuracy. Decided not to open the case.
I mounted the remote sensor in the RV6 tail on a sheet of .040. I riveted
an alum angle to the top of the bulkhead that is at the aft end of the rib
that supports the elevator bell-crank, to the left of this intersection and
facing forward. The the aft edge of the .040 sheet was riveted to this
angle and the right edge of the .040 was riveted to the angle on top of
the rib that supports the elevator bell-crank. I riveted a support angle to
the bottom of the .040 sheet running from the right rear corner to the left
front corner. This made the assembly surprisingly strong. I fasted the
remote sensor to he .040 with 2 all stainless #6 screws and washers and
nylock nuts.
If you need more info, please email,
Bob
At 10:16 AM 11/27/99 , you wrote:
>Bob:
> I went to the West marine web site you mentioned in your post to
>the RV-list but couldn't spot which of the many comapasses they list is the
>one you are referring to. Can you give me a manufacturer & model number?
>What is the claimed accuracy?
>
> I'm very interested in this. I have bought a $50 compass module
>from Precision Navigation (they make the basic magnetic sensor used in all
>digital compasses that are not flux gates - they have the patent). I
>intend to make one but I'll have to build the display & control electronics
>myself and program it. From your description I'm pretty sure they're using
>the Precision Nav sensor. If I can buy the same thing from West Marine I
>will certainy do it.
>
> Have you looked inside the thing? The Precision Nav module is
>about 1.5" square and has two small coils at right angles to each other.
>They're each about 3/4" long.
>
>Thanks for any info,
>
>---
>Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Questions |
>
>Hello Listers,
>
>I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I have
>a couple of questions:
>
>What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will keep
>the rod bearings from rotating? And, how tight is tight enough for the
>jam nuts?
Well, if the rod bearing stars to rotate, it would be rubbing on the
side of the hinge bracket. I don't think you want that.
>Okay, one last question, should the elevators be balanced "to be in
>trail" as a unit or individually? My left elevator with the servo is
>heavy (trails down) and my right elevator is light (trails up). Adding
>or subtracting lead to each side depends upon which approach I take. Is
>it best to balance the elevators as unit?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mark Gilbert
Mark,
Theoretically speaking, you should balance the elevators
individually. The purpose of the mass balancing is to make sure that
there is no flutter at speeds inside the recommended envelope. The
mass balancing will be most effective if done individually. If you
do it with the two elevators bolted together, and have one side nose
heavy, and one tail heavy as you do, you will be depending on the
torsional stiffness from one side to the other. This will reduce the
speed at which flutter occurs (but I have no idea whether that would
put it in the recommended flight envelope or not). Also, if you ever
have the misfortune to have the bolt that joins the elevators come
out, not only will you lose elevator control, but you now may have a
flutter problem. If you don't have flutter, you should be able to
get back on the ground using pitch trim, but if you've got flutter
you will probably die.
But, I would not be surprised to learn that other RVs have had the
elevators balanced as a pair, and if you do proper preflight
inspections, the bolt that joins the elevators should never come out.
This would be a good question to ask Van's tech support.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Questions |
The Jam nuts also take out all play in the threads. A harmonic vibration or
flutter is not what you want to appear at your elevators.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Horizontal Stab Questions
>
>>
>>Hello Listers,
>>
>>I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I have
>>a couple of questions:
>>
>>What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will keep
>>the rod bearings from rotating? And, how tight is tight enough for the
>>jam nuts?
>
>Well, if the rod bearing stars to rotate, it would be rubbing on the
>side of the hinge bracket. I don't think you want that.
>
>>Okay, one last question, should the elevators be balanced "to be in
>>trail" as a unit or individually? My left elevator with the servo is
>>heavy (trails down) and my right elevator is light (trails up). Adding
>>or subtracting lead to each side depends upon which approach I take. Is
>>it best to balance the elevators as unit?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Mark Gilbert
>
>Mark,
>
>Theoretically speaking, you should balance the elevators
>individually. The purpose of the mass balancing is to make sure that
>there is no flutter at speeds inside the recommended envelope. The
>mass balancing will be most effective if done individually. If you
>do it with the two elevators bolted together, and have one side nose
>heavy, and one tail heavy as you do, you will be depending on the
>torsional stiffness from one side to the other. This will reduce the
>speed at which flutter occurs (but I have no idea whether that would
>put it in the recommended flight envelope or not). Also, if you ever
>have the misfortune to have the bolt that joins the elevators come
>out, not only will you lose elevator control, but you now may have a
>flutter problem. If you don't have flutter, you should be able to
>get back on the ground using pitch trim, but if you've got flutter
>you will probably die.
>
>But, I would not be surprised to learn that other RVs have had the
>elevators balanced as a pair, and if you do proper preflight
>inspections, the bolt that joins the elevators should never come out.
>
>This would be a good question to ask Van's tech support.
>
>Take care,
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Spar |
DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com wrote:
> Quick question: On the aileron spar hinge doublers, the drawing is a bit
> confusing to me. Does the doubler lay on the spar with the steel hinges on
> top with nothing else attached there? There are some other hidden lines that
> I think are the attach points on the wing and are for reference. Any help
> would be appreciated.
Dave, it's been a while since I worked on the ailerons, so I can't
recall exactly how things go there. IIRC, there's some potential problem
with interference of the doubler attachment rivets and the rib
attachment rivets.
My comments, experiences, and photos are at
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2d.htm
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> On a more positive note, I haven't studied every part yet, but
> looking at
> the plans it does appear that most of the parts are pre-drilled. I
> thought
> I could get away without having to do any fluting but that's not
> true.
> Although the horizontal stabilizer skeleton is pre-fluted, some of
> the
> other skeleton parts will need to be fluted.
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
> Building RV-9A tail
>
-
Mark,
Glad to hear that so far you are impressed with the new RV-9A kit.
It is true that a lot of the parts are pre fluted to help them correctly
form to the proper shape, but it is not done 100%. You still need to
double check the flange angles and straightness of parts, and adjusted as
required.
I think this is mentioned in the manual.
Keep me posted on how it goes and what you like / don't like about the
kit.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Questions |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I
> have
> a couple of questions:
>
> What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will
> keep
> the rod bearings from rotating?
-
The jamb nut locks the spar web between it and the plate nut. Without
the jamb nut most all of the bend load would be applied to the 2 rivets
that hold on the plate nut . With the spar trapped between the plate nut
and the jamb nut, all of the bending load is transferred to the spar web.
-
>And, how tight is tight enough for
> the
> jam nuts?
-
I guess the technical answer is look up the torque spec. for that sized
nut and use that value.
>
> In this application, at what point is the rod end bearing backed out
> of
> the nut plate too far? I am wondering because it appears I will
> need to
> back the bearings out more than the plans require: 1) at the inboard
> hinge (out 1/16" more)to keep the rolled leading edge of the
> elevators
> from rubbing against the hz stab spar and 2) at the outboard hinge
> (out
> 2/16" more)to align the tips of the elevator and stab. So it
> appears
> that I will have about 1/8" inch of threads through the backside of
> the
> nutplate at the outboard location.
-
It is best to try and have the rod end penetrate the full depth of the
rod end.
-
>
> Is there a compelling reason to drill the control horn hole through
> the
> central bearing now, rather than later when the whole assembly is on
> the
> fuse? The only reason I thought of for doing it now is to be able
> to
> bolt the control horns together in order to be able to balance both
> elevators as a single unit before the fairings are pop riveted into
> place. However, I have attached the fairings with nutplates so I
> can
> fine tune the elevator balance later (possibly after painting) and
> so I
> can check the bolt torque on the lead counterweights at each annual
> condition inspection. So, do I need to drill this control horn hole
> right now or can it wait till later (when, hopefully, I am a more
> skilled builder)?
-
It is much easier to do this without the confines of the fuselage.
I also align the elevators and drill the holes for the pushrod
attachment.
This is much more difficult to do with it in the airplane, and really of
no value.
-
>
> Okay, one last question, should the elevators be balanced "to be in
> trail" as a unit or individually? My left elevator with the servo
> is
> heavy (trails down) and my right elevator is light (trails up).
> Adding
> or subtracting lead to each side depends upon which approach I take.
> Is
> it best to balance the elevators as unit?
-
Technically they should be done individually, but as you mentioned the
left one takes a lot more weight than the right. With evidence of RV's
that are flying it is fine to do the balancing as an assembly.
I wouldn't get to carried away with that right now though. any amount of
paint that you add later will cause you to need to do it all over again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rocket accident. |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Scanning through the NTSB reports I found an accident that happened in
Florida about 1 1/2 weeks ago.
It was a HRII registered to an owner named Fredrick.
Pilot was killed and passenger in serious condition after a crash caused
by an engine failure at low altitude.
Anyone know who this was?
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing deep scratches from parts |
Mark to answer your question, the answer is no. all
scratches do not have to be removed, however you
should prime the areas that have scratches as the
alclad is removed from this area and can and will set
up corrosion. As a guide you should be able to run
your finger across the scratch and not catch a nail
and that accomplished prime the part affected and
press on. Hope this helps
Glenn Williams
A&P mechanic
8A wings
--- Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>
>
> When shaping and deburring parts, is it absolutely
> necessary to remove
> every single scratch? Sometimes it seems like every
> time I sand with emery
> cloth or rub with scotchbrite, I remove some
> scratches but add a few new
> ones. It seems like there are always a few deep
> scratches that are very
> smooth but not completely removed. Will these
> potentially cause cracking?
> Any suggestions from experienced builders?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
> Building RV-9A tail
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul and Janet Lein <lein1jd(at)cmich.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Gap seal up-date |
Mark and other listers,
I can't say how much faster my RV may be with the gap seals than without
them - I had them
on from FAA inspection on. It's probably not legal to take them off, now
; ) ...
I felt the rudder and elevator pressures were higher than I
remembered from other RV6's I've flown . Then I realized I was spending
most time at 180 to 200 mph so they should feel more firm than " Old
Blue" did at 165 mph. At 140- 150 mph they are much lighter on my
airplane too... Dohhh...
I have a couple more hours on the replacement gap seal and have no
problems, so far.
Cheers,
Paul
6A in Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Lister's,
I have trimmed, cut & drilled my canopy today. It isn't as bad as it is many
have said it was going to be. I helper is necessary.
To all of those who have done this before me, a question.
How much of the canopy overhangs the rear of the canopy frame?
The trim line that Van's suggests has the canopy overhanging by about 2
inches in the rear. Is this critical or should I trim right to the canopy
frame.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
Don't want to start a big debate but..... I find it very difficult to
understand why anyone
would want an RV-9 instead of the 6. Sure, it sounds like a real nice
airplane and I am sure that all the RV-9 builders will enjoy their planes
.... however, why settle for LESS performance? The 6A is trully a great
performing airplane with everything you could ask for, ie: slow landing
speed, great slow speed handling, along with awesome 190mph + cruise at 8gph,
(0-320).
After 240+ hours on my 6A, (I had only 200 hours total when I started flying
my RV),
I really don't understand these "pilot capability" comments; as if the 6A is
some kind of super high performance, "difficult to fly" hot rod. I have
several friends (who are in their eighties) recently make their first flights
with no problems. They LOVED it! The 6A is NOT difficult to fly!
Ever since I first heard of the RV-9 concept I wondered why Van would take a
plane design like the 6,
("Total Performance"), and change the design for "Less Performance".
Maybe some of the 9 builders can help me understand.....maybe I am missing
something.
Sincerely,
Walt. RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | 8A Canopy Drillling |
Lister's,
Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should I
grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
I only had 55hrs total time, dual, solo, and RV-6A intro from Mike when I
flew mine for the first time...no dents, no dings: its must be an easy plane
to fly!
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical Stab Questions, was hor. stab. question |
Scott
What is your take on the vertical stab rod bearings (rv8) being on the
short side ??
On mine, it does not feel that the rod-ends are reaching the squeezed
end of the plate nuts when I try and adhere to the dim's given. of
course I could turn them in more, but then the counterweight is getting
rather close to the vert.stab
Gert
80721
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
> > I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I
> > have
> > a couple of questions:
> >
> > What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will
> > keep
> > the rod bearings from rotating?
> -
SNIP--------------SNIP----------------SNIP
> -
> Technically they should be done individually, but as you mentioned the
> left one takes a lot more weight than the right. With evidence of RV's
> that are flying it is fine to do the balancing as an assembly.
>
> I wouldn't get to carried away with that right now though. any amount of
> paint that you add later will cause you to need to do it all over again.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical Stab Questions, was hor. stab. question |
guys the backup nut on the rod end bearings is giving
support on the back side of the spar and cinches down
the rod end to the nut plate. Just put it in according
to the directions and you will be fine I promise.
Glenn Williams
A&P mechanic
8A wings
--- Gert wrote:
>
>
> Scott
>
> What is your take on the vertical stab rod bearings
> (rv8) being on the
> short side ??
>
> On mine, it does not feel that the rod-ends are
> reaching the squeezed
> end of the plate nuts when I try and adhere to the
> dim's given. of
> course I could turn them in more, but then the
> counterweight is getting
> rather close to the vert.stab
>
> Gert
>
> 80721
>
> Scott R McDaniels wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > > I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the
> first time and now I
> > > have
> > > a couple of questions:
> > >
> > > What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the
> hinge brackets will
> > > keep
> > > the rod bearings from rotating?
> > -
> SNIP--------------SNIP----------------SNIP
> > -
> > Technically they should be done individually, but
> as you mentioned the
> > left one takes a lot more weight than the right.
> With evidence of RV's
> > that are flying it is fine to do the balancing as
> an assembly.
> >
> > I wouldn't get to carried away with that right now
> though. any amount of
> > paint that you add later will cause you to need to
> do it all over again.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> I have trimmed, cut & drilled my canopy today. It isn't as bad as it
> is many
> have said it was going to be. I helper is necessary.
>
> To all of those who have done this before me, a question.
>
> How much of the canopy overhangs the rear of the canopy frame?
>
> The trim line that Van's suggests has the canopy overhanging by
> about 2
> inches in the rear. Is this critical or should I trim right to the
> canopy
> frame.
>
No it is not critical, but I would recommend that you don't trim it that
close.
It is always better to leave more edge distance to the holes in the
canopy where possible, but 3/4 " to 1 " is enough.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Don't want to start a big debate but..... I find it very difficult
> to
> understand why anyone
> would want an RV-9 instead of the 6. Sure, it sounds like a real
> nice
> airplane and I am sure that all the RV-9 builders will enjoy their
> planes
> .... however, why settle for LESS performance? The 6A is trully a
> great
> performing airplane with everything you could ask for, ie: slow
> landing
> speed, great slow speed handling, along with awesome 190mph + cruise
> at 8gph,
> (0-320).
>
> After 240+ hours on my 6A, (I had only 200 hours total when I
> started flying
> my RV),
> I really don't understand these "pilot capability" comments; as if
> the 6A is
> some kind of super high performance, "difficult to fly" hot rod. I
> have
> several friends (who are in their eighties) recently make their
> first flights
> with no problems. They LOVED it! The 6A is NOT difficult to fly!
>
> Ever since I first heard of the RV-9 concept I wondered why Van
> would take a
> plane design like the 6,
> ("Total Performance"), and change the design for "Less
> Performance".
>
> Maybe some of the 9 builders can help me understand.....maybe I am
> missing
> something.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Walt. RV-6A N79WH
>
Walt,
I'll try.
The RV-9A really isn't "less" performance. It just has its performance
biased to a different part of the spectrum.
True it is not going to be approved for a 180 HP engine. But if you
compare an RV-9A with a 160 HP engine to an RV-6A with a 160 HP engine,
and both use the same prop. we expect the cruise and top speed #'s to be
just about exactly the same.
The RV-9A will have a slower stall speed and a resultant shorter takeoff
and landing distance, a higher rate of climb, and it is planed to be
approved for a higher gross weight.
So the only thing an RV-9A builder is really giving up is it wont be
quite as quick and responsive on the controls (but still very quick by
certified aircraft standards), and their airplane will not be approved
for aerobatics
(which it has been found that a large percentage of RV-6A builders don't
seem to care about anyway).
So I think you will agree that someone building an RV-9A really isn't
giving up much in performance. That is unless he uses the 118 HP Lyc.
O-235 engine (which reflects all of the "currently published" performance
data). This was an option for the airplane that Van wanted to offer as a
way to make it more economical for people to build there own airplane.
The O-235 is a lower cost (and yes, lower performance) alternative, but
it is not the only alternative. In fact I think the majority of RV-9A's
will be built with O-320's.
I guess one negative is that with a 5 ft. longer wing span it will a
little tougher to cram 3 of them into a twin sized T hanger like you can
with the other RV's.
Most people really don't know how strong of an advocate Van has always
been for trying to provide a product that would make it possible for as
many people to fulfill that dream as he could...Yea, and make a little
money doing it.
I have been cruising through some of the other kit companies web sites
lately and I am amazed at what the kits cost. A certain popular kit
(I will call it a "transparent lunar object") costs $25,000 for the basic
kit.
After buying that you still have to buy a cowling, engine mount,
spinner,etc., etc. before you even start buying an engine, avionics, and
instruments, you are in to them for $30,000. I was amazed.
But, I guess you all know that already, which is why you are building
RV's and are on this list instead of a different one.
Sorry for the rambling
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
>From: "steffco1" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 20:37:27 -0600
>
>
>Lister's,
>
>Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
>initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
>5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
>
>Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should I
>grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas
Mark,
Use the Avery bit. Attempting to make your own Plexi bit might work, then
it might not. I wouldn't want to risk it! Even the plexi bits will chip or
crack the plexi if mishandled. Make sure you use a piece of wood to back
the plexi while you drill through it. The warmer you can get the canopy,
the better. It was about 90 degrees in my shop when I was cutting and
drilling on my canopy and it turned out fine. I even dropped the thing off
my sawhorses in a moment of severe mental lapse and it just flopped around a
bit, but did not crack! I did lose some hair from the experience.
As for the overhang on the aft end. I trimmed mine so the edge distance to
the drilled holes is the same all the way around. Too much overhanging
plexi might make fitting the skirt difficult but I can't say for sure. I
also found that the canopy would not fit the curvature of the frame from the
aft-most end, to points forward on each side about four inches. I just used
one rivet where it contacts the frame at the end, and let it ride free until
it contacted the frame on each side forward of that four inch area without
any stress placed on the plexi to make it do so. From that point on, all
went as per plans. I've subjected the canopy to various forms of torture
now for several months, including the bumpy ride to the airport, with no
problems at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
In a message dated 11/27/99 7:05:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Rvator97(at)aol.com writes:
<< After 240+ hours on my 6A, (I had only 200 hours total when I started
flying
my RV),
I really don't understand these "pilot capability" comments; as if the 6A
is
some kind of super high performance, "difficult to fly" hot rod. I have
several friends (who are in their eighties) recently make their first
flights
with no problems. They LOVED it! The 6A is NOT difficult to fly! >>
I would second Walt's comments regarding the 6A and simply add that most of
my time when I finished the 6A was in a Kitfox and it was quite easy to make
the transition despite the differences in the two planes. The 6A handles
effortlessly and you will feel right at home in it after only a few hours.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
Dave,
The reason you're confused is because the Aileron drawing is WRONG. I
am assuming that you are building an RV-8 and looking at drawing #13, upper
right hand corner, "AILERON SPAR REAR VIEW, FULL SCALE". There are two
views shown, a plan view of the spar, fore shortened, showing the lighting
hole and a left end view of the spar. First, the plan view is not a "REAR"
view as identified, but a "FRONT" view, looking aft. (Note: The hidden lines
top and bottom which are the edges of the flange going away from you, toward
the rear of the airplane). If the plan view is really a "FRONT" view of the
spar (and it IS) then the view to the left (the left end view) is backwards.
The flanges should be going toward the left, not the right.
All of that is confusing enough, but the folks at Van's are confused
too. My kit contained two right aileron spars, one identified as a right
and one as a left. I requested a replacement left aileron spar and received
another right, identified as a left. If you believe that the drawing is
identified correctly and that the left end view is correctly drawn you will
misidentify spars all day long. However, if you disregard the identification
and the left end view drawing and just look at the plan view you will be
correct if you build your left aileron per that single view. I am sure
other folks have misidentified spars too.
Your question - the vertical phantom lines identify the position of the
nose ribs, A-404 (see drawing lower left hand corner). The triangular
trailing edge ribs, A-405L&R go behind the A-406 & A-407 aileron brackets
using flush rivets through the doubler and the spar. The aileron brackets
are then bolted to the assembly with the bolts going through the bracket,
doubler, spar, rib. The only rivets that just go through the spar and the
doubler are the three rivets on each doubler nearest the center of the spar.
Also the extra hole drilled in the center of the spar flange identifies the
bottom of the spar (see the note on the incorrectly drawn left hand view).
My #13 drawing is the R5 change dated 6/98.
Just keep looking at all those views until it sort of makes sense.
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
RV-8, Wings
From: DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Spar
Quick question: On the aileron spar hinge doublers, the drawing is a bit
confusing to me. Does the doubler lay on the spar with the steel hinges on
top with nothing else attached there? There are some other hidden lines that
I think are the attach points on the wing and are for reference. Any help
would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dave Funk, Elevators, wings, and everything else.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alumaprep and Alodyne rinse removal |
In a message dated 11/27/99 11:39:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< 4) Pour all used alodyne and aluma-prep from the dipping tub into milk
jugs.
Re-used the alodyne once or twice but not the aluma-prep. Took all of the
used stuff to the hazmat recycle center eventually. >>
This is one of Randall's steps, which is o.k. I am doing it a bit
differently. I am making my Alodine from Iridite 14-2 powder. The spec
sheet explains the process of
deslagging the solution and rejuvenating it should it become necessary. At
any rate, when I am done using the containers of alodine, which total twenty
gallons, I shall
clean up the solution, rejuvenate as required, and "give" the solution to
another builder for the cost of the containers that it is mixed in. I should
have no trouble getting rid of this hazardous material in a way that is good
for the environment. Of
course, EVENTUALLY, someone will have to make that trip to the hazmat recycle
center.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I only had 55hrs total time, dual, solo, and RV-6A intro from Mike
> when I
> flew mine for the first time...no dents, no dings: its must be an
> easy plane
> to fly!
>
-
I forgot to mention in my other (much to long) post.
It is true that many low time pilots have easily made the transition to
all of the RV models, but believe me... a lot of pilots have a difficult
time.
After doing as many demo flights as we do with a broad variety of pilots
it becomes obvious how weak some basic piloting skills are in some of
them.
We also get to fly with many RV owners on occasion or get to see them fly
(like at the home coming) and it is obvious that even after 200 to 300
hrs in their RV that many pilots are still as much a passenger in their
airplane as they are the master of it.
I know Mike Seager lurks on the list occasionally and he might be willing
to comment (though maybe he doesn't agree with me).
I am no expert pilot (in RV's or any other airplane) myself by any means,
but I fly with many pilots that seem like they would be more comfortable
in an airplane like an RV-9A. I guess Van feels the same way.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vertical Stab Questions, was hor. stab. question |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> What is your take on the vertical stab rod bearings (rv8) being on
> the
> short side ??
>
> On mine, it does not feel that the rod-ends are reaching the
> squeezed
> end of the plate nuts when I try and adhere to the dim's given. of
> course I could turn them in more, but then the counterweight is
> getting
> rather close to the vert.stab
-
You should turn them in until they at least start to get hard to turn.
That should be enough thread engagement.
Then if neccessary use a round file and file fwd on the skin to allow
clearance for the balance arm.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How easy is the RV9A? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Not to fan the flames, but.....
>
> I don't see the big price break. A midtime 0-235 isn't that much
> cheaper
> than an
> 0-320. Maybe a couple thousand dollars. Everything else costs the
> same,
> whether you buy it for a -4, -6, -8, or -9). The kit costs more. I
> still
> don't understand the "lower cost" selling point.
>
>
N96VA, the RV-9 prototype has a "zero" Hrs SMOH Lycoming O-235L2C
of 118 HP that was purchased for $7000 outright. That is the bottom of
the range runout core value of an O-360 (if you can find them), or a
common price for a mid to high time O-320 engine that can be used as is
for a few hundred hrs (maybe more).
I often see mid time O-235's of various models for $3500 to $4500.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Flaring tool, tools in general |
Just a comment on the recent flaring tool thread. I too cringed a few
years ago when I bought the $65 37 degree flaring tool, thinking I was
getting gouged. However, it has been worth every penny, as it makes
repeatable, beautiful flares every time. It has a guide to position the
tube properly, also. Doesn't have a name on it, but it is the one with the
large handle on one end, and two "gear" like parts which rotate to adjust
between the sizes.
Buy good tools, you will never regret it. This flaring tool cost something
like one thousandth of the cost of my project, but I'll sleep better
knowing that the fuel lines are up to aircraft standards.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: snow on the runway |
I may now live and fly in Southern California but I
learned to fly in South Western Pennsylvania. I was a
STUDENT PILOT the first time I took off and landed on
a SNOW covered runway. No big deal if you do full
stall landings and taxi the aircraft like you have no
breaks. Sorry it was not an RV but only a C-152.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 460+ hours
O-320 Hartzell
Southern California USA
>
> >
> > I went to the airport this morning, but when I got
> there elected not to fly. The
> > runway was covered with about an inch of unbroken
> crusty snow overlying a pretty
> > slick glaze of ice.
> >
> > On driving home I started to feel that I was just
> being a big chicken and that
> > should have taken out my very capable aircraft and
> enjoyed the smooth morning
> > air.
> >
> > At the airport, I questioned the amount of
> directional control I would have with
> > the wheels plowing through the crust. On one hand
> I thought that with the prop
> > blast or any amount of airspeed over the rudder it
> would be no different than
> > any other soft field operation, although perhaps
> using up a little more runway.
> > On the other hand, I feared that as the wheels
> moved between different textures
> > and thicknesses of snow and ice, ground control
> would have been very difficult.
> > As it was clear that no one else had flown over
> the past couple of days, I
> > decided to go home.
> >
> > Now, other than the "prudence is good" bit, which
> I already know (proof of which
> > is my writing of this post), what I would like to
> know from anyone who has flown
> > RVs in these conditions is whether my concern was
> justified.
> >
> > Once again, please; I'm not looking for praise for
> being overcautious. I'm
> > really just hoping for an accurate technical
> analysis of what to expect in these
> > conditions.
> >
> > (I have flown my ultralight on loose snow and it
> did tend to yaw back and forth
> > a bit on takeoff, but it has so much control, that
> I never thought of it as much
> > of a problem. Landings in snow were little more
> than a short skid. (Yes, its
> > true, except for in very turbulent air, the
> ultralight is far more precise and
> > controllable than the RV.))
> >
> > Andy
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
I know this has been covered a thousand times, but for those of you who
haven't learned, do not try to do anything on the canopy without the proper
tools/procedure. I am about to write an $800 check to Van's for a new
canopy. I used an Avery plexi bit, my shop was 100 degrees or more, and I
still cracked mine. Drill VERY slowly. I mean VERY VERY slowly. Cracking
the canopy is one of the most disappointing things I have ever done,
especially since it happened AFTER I did most of the work fitting it. I was
speaking to a guy here in Arizona who builds RV's for a living, and he even
uses oil or boelube when he drills his.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 7:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>Lister's,
>
>Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
>initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
>5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
>
>Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should I
>grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
>
>I know this has been covered a thousand times, but for those of you who
>haven't learned, do not try to do anything on the canopy without the proper
>tools/procedure. I am about to write an $800 check to Van's for a new
>canopy. I used an Avery plexi bit, my shop was 100 degrees or more, and I
>still cracked mine. Drill VERY slowly. I mean VERY VERY slowly. Cracking
>the canopy is one of the most disappointing things I have ever done,
>especially since it happened AFTER I did most of the work fitting it. I was
>speaking to a guy here in Arizona who builds RV's for a living, and he even
>uses oil or boelube when he drills his.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
I'm sorry to hear about your canopy but I have to say that you did
everything right.
OTOH, I drilled mine with a regular bit in 70 degree temps and had no
problem. Honestly, I think it's a black art known but a very few. I
should have cracked mine but was lucky.
I drilled my canopy using a battery drill that was about 600 RPM and
applied very little (maybe none) pressure to the bit. I tried to let
the bit cut its own way into the hole but not take too big a bite as
it did so. Maybe that helped, don't know, really.
I do know that when I pop-riveted the canopy to the frame that I
cringed every time I pulled a rivet. I did have one small crack but,
luckily, it was very short and I drill stopped it before it went more
than 1/2".
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Speeds on 160-HP |
It appears the speeds listed on Van's web site for the new RV-9A are for the
118-hp prototype. Has anyone seen any speed estimates for the plane with a
160-hp engine? I assume it would be similar to the RV-6A with 160-hp,
perhaps down on top speed a bit at lower altitudes, but with a slightly
faster cruise up high due to the higher aspect ratio wing.
Thanks,
- Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
I bought another after my practice canopy on my -6. The first I heated up
as advised. With 6 or 7 holes left to drill on the skirt....pop. The
second canopy was drilled at about 68 to 70 degrees, shop temp. No problems
at all.
Why? Don't know. A few of the multi builders in this area told me they
just drilled them at what ever temp the shop was and no problems. Someone
said to get a pair of cheap polaroid glass. He said you can see the stress
lines. I never tried it. Maybe that would give a clue?
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 N641DH
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
Check your plans. Most holes in Plexiglas are not critical in fact most are
drilled over size to compensate for expansion and contraction due to heat.
You don't NOT want a small exact fit for that reason.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 8:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>Lister's,
>
>Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
>initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
>5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
>
>Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should I
>grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
A Unibit works very well. Use a counter sink to chamfer both sides of your
hole to reduce the tendency to crack.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>I know this has been covered a thousand times, but for those of you who
>haven't learned, do not try to do anything on the canopy without the proper
>tools/procedure. I am about to write an $800 check to Van's for a new
>canopy. I used an Avery plexi bit, my shop was 100 degrees or more, and I
>still cracked mine. Drill VERY slowly. I mean VERY VERY slowly. Cracking
>the canopy is one of the most disappointing things I have ever done,
>especially since it happened AFTER I did most of the work fitting it. I
was
>speaking to a guy here in Arizona who builds RV's for a living, and he even
>uses oil or boelube when he drills his.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 7:44 PM
>Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>
>>
>>Lister's,
>>
>>Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
>>initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
>>5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
>>
>>Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should
I
>>grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
>>
>>Mark Steffensen
>>8A Dallas
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Power Supply Placement |
Listers . . . I'm putting a Wheelan Strobe w nav light on each wing tip . .
. with dual power supplies. I'm thinking about mounting the power supplies
on the inside of the outboard rib . . . but could also mount this on the
outside of this rib (i.e. inside the fiberglass tip). Any thoughts? Any
better suggestions? Also, if I'm looking at the plans right . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | Re: digital compass |
Bob:
That is great information, thanks. If the accuracy is 0.5 deg., I'm
sold. The Precision Nav sensors only have 2.0 deg accuracy. I wish it had
a digital display though. I'm going to contact Ritchie right away.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: snow on the runway |
Andy, it would be good to know personally what it is like trying to deal
with ice and wind. Where there is snow, there is soon to be ice patches.
From my experience with a Cessna 140 (tail wheel) I do not look forward to
taxiing on ice again especially in cross winds. In my case, the runway was
clean, the taxi-way had ice and snow. The problem that I experienced was a
stiff wind from the right. The brakes barely have any affect and if you
lock one up, you loose that directional control and the wind has an easier
time pushing the plane sideways. It feels like a catch 22. If you get
pushed off the taxi-way, you'll have to deal with pulling the plane out
either manually or with a tractor. Uurg!
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: snow on the runway
>
>I went to the airport this morning, but when I got there elected not to
fly. The
>runway was covered with about an inch of unbroken crusty snow overlying a
pretty
>slick glaze of ice.
>
>On driving home I started to feel that I was just being a big chicken and
that
>should have taken out my very capable aircraft and enjoyed the smooth
morning
>air.
>
>At the airport, I questioned the amount of directional control I would have
with
>the wheels plowing through the crust. On one hand I thought that with the
prop
>blast or any amount of airspeed over the rudder it would be no different
than
>any other soft field operation, although perhaps using up a little more
runway.
>On the other hand, I feared that as the wheels moved between different
textures
>and thicknesses of snow and ice, ground control would have been very
difficult.
>As it was clear that no one else had flown over the past couple of days, I
>decided to go home.
>
>Now, other than the "prudence is good" bit, which I already know (proof of
which
>is my writing of this post), what I would like to know from anyone who has
flown
>RVs in these conditions is whether my concern was justified.
>
>Once again, please; I'm not looking for praise for being overcautious. I'm
>really just hoping for an accurate technical analysis of what to expect in
these
>conditions.
>
>
>(I have flown my ultralight on loose snow and it did tend to yaw back and
forth
>a bit on takeoff, but it has so much control, that I never thought of it as
much
>of a problem. Landings in snow were little more than a short skid. (Yes,
its
>true, except for in very turbulent air, the ultralight is far more precise
and
>controllable than the RV.))
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> |
| Subject: | 8A Canopy Drillling |
>
> Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
> initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit
Mark,
Oddly enough, I had the *worst* luck with plexi drills. See
http://fp1.cyberhighway.net/~racker/Canopy.htm for how I successfully
drilled my canopy, after much experimentation and suggestions from the list.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff, engine sensors and senders).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solenoid Priming |
Larry,
Of course pumping the throttle on a updraft carb is a bad thing
so I'll tell you this and you may want to experiment with it.
1. Throttle closed, mixture closed, Switch off, pull the prop 12 times to
exercise congealed oil.
2. Switch off, give two shots of prime, pull prop thru 6 times.
3. Get in, full rich, throttle cracked 1/2 inch, 1 or 2 shots of prime,
switch on, start engine.
This has worked for me many times with great success at 20 deg F and
sometimes below that.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com Rochester, N.Y.
Listers,
It seems like I have to end up pumping the throttle
to get it started quickly and I am trying to avoid that.
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
Paul: I have had good luck drilling plexiglas in most temperatures (50 to
90 degrees) by doing the following 1) Start by slowly drilling a very small
1\16 in.pilot hole use kerosene as a lubricant 2) Since the small pilot
hole tends to relieve stress a crack is less likely to occur so sneek up on
your size by using say 3 bits turned slowly with lubricant. 3) I know this
takes a lot of time and is a mess (kerosene) but it works on installing
plexiglas 1\4 of an inch thick in the winter in Ohio (Houses and race Cars)
Tom in Oh.
----------
> From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
> Date: Sunday, November 28, 1999 12:25 AM
>
>
> I know this has been covered a thousand times, but for those of you who
> haven't learned, do not try to do anything on the canopy without the
proper
> tools/procedure. I am about to write an $800 check to Van's for a new
> canopy. I used an Avery plexi bit, my shop was 100 degrees or more, and
I
> still cracked mine. Drill VERY slowly. I mean VERY VERY slowly.
Cracking
> the canopy is one of the most disappointing things I have ever done,
> especially since it happened AFTER I did most of the work fitting it. I
was
> speaking to a guy here in Arizona who builds RV's for a living, and he
even
> uses oil or boelube when he drills his.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 7:44 PM
> Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>
> >
> >Lister's,
> >
> >Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
> >initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's
sells
> >5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
> >
> >Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or
should I
> >grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
> >
> >Mark Steffensen
> >8A Dallas
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Canopy Drillling |
Mark, If you get caught in a pinch, you can make your own.
Look carefully at one of your purchsed plexi drill bits and study how it is
ground blunt. My power chain saw sharpener spins a narrow (3/16")grinding
wheel works fine for this task. I think you could easily do the same with a
disk attached to your high speed grinder. I found that it is best to *not*
use split point bits. It only takes one or two seconds of grinding per
surface. After you are done, test the bit on scrap material. Try pressing
harder than you normally would. If it breaks out the back side clean, it is
working. In my testing with regular sharp drills, I noticed the damage
happened on the back side as the bit was exiting the hole. With this in
mind, I used a hardwood block as a backing to retard the speed at which it
breaks through.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: steffco1 <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Saturday, November 27, 1999 8:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: 8A Canopy Drillling
>
>Lister's,
>
>Also, in drilling the canopy to the canopy frame I need to enlage the
>initial drilled holes to a #27 hole using a plexi drill bit. Avery's sells
>5/32 (.1562) plexi drill bits which are larger than #27 (.1440).
>
>Is this acceptable? If not where would one find a #27 Plexi-Bit or should I
>grind a #27 to 60 degrees to make my own Plexi-Bit.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supply Placement |
>
>
>Listers . . . I'm putting a Wheelan Strobe w nav light on each wing tip . .
>. with dual power supplies. I'm thinking about mounting the power supplies
>on the inside of the outboard rib . . . but could also mount this on the
>outside of this rib (i.e. inside the fiberglass tip). Any thoughts? Any
>better suggestions? Also, if I'm looking at the plans right . . .
Rick,
I would place the power supplies on the outside of the end ribs, straddled
across the spar web where the ribs are the most rigid. As for servicing
them in the future, you can do it via removable wingtips (lots of nutplates
to install!) or make an access panel in each wingtip on the bottom, which
would allow you to pop rivet the wingtips on. I went with the single power
supply and mounted it just aft of the rear baggage compartment.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
spinner 'n fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supply Placement |
Rick Jory wrote:
>
> Listers . . . I'm putting a Wheelan Strobe w nav light on each wing tip . .
> . with dual power supplies. I'm thinking about mounting the power supplies
> on the inside of the outboard rib . . . but could also mount this on the
> outside of this rib (i.e. inside the fiberglass tip). Any thoughts? Any
> better suggestions? Also, if I'm looking at the plans right . . .
I mounted mine on the forward face of the wing spar. Good sturdy mounting
location and keeps the weight ever so slightly forward.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Has anyone had any good or bad dealings with Avsource One in Missouri?
I received a quote from them to paint my RV8 and it seems like a very
thorough process that is done in a climate controlled environment by folks
who know what they're doing. They came back with a quote of $3,000 and it
requires two weeks of down time.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
wants pretty paint job...so somebody else better do it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: snow on the runway |
In a message dated 11/27/99 10:46:39, winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
I went to the airport this morning, but when I got there elected not to fly.
The
runway was covered with about an inch of unbroken crusty snow overlying a
pretty
slick glaze of ice.
On driving home I started to feel that I was just being a big chicken and that
should have taken out my very capable aircraft and enjoyed the smooth morning
air.
At the airport, I questioned the amount of directional control I would have
with
the wheels plowing through the crust. On one hand I thought that with the prop
blast or any amount of airspeed over the rudder it would be no different from
any other soft field operation, although perhaps using up a little more
runway.
On the other hand, I feared that as the wheels moved between different
textures
and thickness of snow and ice, ground control would have been very difficult.
As it was clear that no one else had flown over the past couple of days, I
decided to go home.
Now, other than the "prudence is good" bit, which I already know (proof of
which
is my writing of this post), what I would like to know from anyone who has
flown
RVs in these conditions is whether my concern was justified.
Once again, please; I'm not looking for praise for being overcautious. I'm
really just hoping for an accurate technical analysis of what to expect in
these
conditions.
(I have flown my ultralight on loose snow and it did tend to yaw back and
forth
a bit on takeoff, but it has so much control, that I never thought of it as
much
of a problem. Landings in snow were little more than a short skid. (Yes, its
true, except for in very turbulent air, the ultralight is far more precise and
controllable than the RV.))
Andy
>>
Here are some things to think about in making your decision to fly. Flying
was my business for some years and supervising flying for some more. Seems
like it's only after you've seen or experienced things go wrong that you are
in the know.
1. Wheel pants. If you have them installed, or worse yet if you have the
tight fitting ones, be very wary about flying with any accumulation of snow,
ice, slush (the worst) on the runway. Be triple wary if you have a 6A. This
will get you when you land and head for the ditch with a wheel locked up with
the pant. Or you could get lucky and spin the pant and only wipe out the
pant and maybe brakes. Of course if the runway was still slick, you would
wind up in the ditch anyway.
2. Brakes. Same as above. If you get some water or slush in the brakes (RV
brakes ideally located for this problem), while they are warm at take off,
then freeze during flight, a similar fate awaits you.
3. Directional control. Let me just say that to control the direction of
ground travel in an airplane which depends on braking and friction on the
nose gear to steer is a religious experience for me, when done on any kind
of slippery surface. If you do go anyway, remember your best way to control
direction may well be with a throttle blast (or shut down). If you don't
have your idle speed set very slow, the thrust can be a hindrance rather than
a help.
4. Stopping ability. This is probably the biggest worry in a big heavy
airplane and the least problem in an RV; however it can still bite you all
the way to the chocks. Keep in mind the lighter the airplane the less bite
you have with the tires and the more the wind will overcome that
5. Colorado Snow in the sun. In our fair state, the humidity is always
relatively low and the sun is unusually bright and powerful. Be very wary of
packed snow on the runway. It can appear dry and give good braking but due
to the surface effects of the sun radiation, you can still get enough thrown
into the brakes and pants on take off to freeze you up.
Lastly. I have a 6A with pants and a slow idle speed. I don't taxi out with
snow or ice on taxiways or runways with temp between 20 and 50 degrees.
Period. Colder may be OK but when I land it is one time and park it. If I
encounter this on cross country, I would park it if any evidence of ice in
pants or braking difficulty. Would not even consider flying at night with
any accumulation at all anywhere. Period. Your mission requirements may
dictate a different philosophy. I only fly for fun, and when I have to.
I don't want to start a flame war. Surely there a lot of listers with more
time and experience than I have and perhaps many can offer neat tricks on how
to survive while landing and taking off in slippery or sloppery conditions.
So could I--- but the best policy is to treat it like flying in a
thunderstorm. Sure there are procedures to improve your odds but you're a
frigging idiot if you do it intentionally.
D Walsh RV-6A 550 hours, two winters in CO, and many in the Northeast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supply Placement |
> Listers . . . I'm putting a Wheelan Strobe w nav light on each wing tip .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N99PZ Moved to airport |
In a message dated 11/27/99 19:39:50, zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
Pine, CO. An experimental homebuilt aircraft was seen on I-70 today in
the Denver area. Area motorists reported that at first they could not
figure out what was loaded on the trailer in front of them but as they
came along side they quickly learned it was an airplane sans wings..
Several motorist took pictures as they sped by. Travel down the
interstate was limited to 50 mph said the driver of the truck, Gary
Zilik. We could have gone faster, but safety was a prime concern so we
kept it slow. The move was reported as uneventful and the
truck/trailer/airplane combo handled well.
It's at the airport!!!
Gary
>>
We had a great time upon the arrival of PZ at front range airport!! Sure is
nice to see another RV on the premises. I put you at number Six. Three 6As,
a Six, a Three and a four. Three are flying and three are in assembly.
I hearby nominate Gary's hangar for the winter Rocky Mountain RVator meeting!
A great large hangar with heat and lights. He even has a plastic airplane
which will be on static display for quite a while. Not to mention Gary's
superbly crafted 6A which most of our members missed seeing at our Pine
meeting.
Y'all come see us. It is a great airport, easily accessable especially from
the east and south, and the gas is reasonable. I am always available for 6A
orientation flights for those who have the nerve to go up with me. So far I
have logged around 160 dual flights.
D Walsh, pres emeritus of the FRABASS (Front RAnge Airport Bum's
Association), chairman of the welcoming committee for the soon to be
organized FRAPRVASS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vertical Stab Questions, was hor. stab. question |
Thanks guys,
I will revisit the vert. stab when I am done with my right wing.
Gert
80721
Gert wrote:
>
>
> Scott
>
> What is your take on the vertical stab rod bearings (rv8) being on the
> short side ??
>
> On mine, it does not feel that the rod-ends are reaching the squeezed
> end of the plate nuts when I try and adhere to the dim's given. of
> course I could turn them in more, but then the counterweight is getting
> rather close to the vert.stab
>
> Gert
>
> 80721
>
> Scott R McDaniels wrote:
> >
> >
> > > I mounted my elevators to the hz stab for the first time and now I
> > > have
> > > a couple of questions:
> > >
> > > What purpose do the jam nuts serve since the hinge brackets will
> > > keep
> > > the rod bearings from rotating?
> > -
> SNIP--------------SNIP----------------SNIP
> > -
> > Technically they should be done individually, but as you mentioned the
> > left one takes a lot more weight than the right. With evidence of RV's
> > that are flying it is fine to do the balancing as an assembly.
> >
> > I wouldn't get to carried away with that right now though. any amount of
> > paint that you add later will cause you to need to do it all over again.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV's in Florida want turbine time? |
Ok, after visiting a couple of very helpful RV builders here in orlando to
look at the difficulty of this project. And after looking into the expenses
and likely overruns I have decided that this is a project I can complete.
Now the only question in my mind is whether I will enjoy the aircraft when
it is finished as much as I will the building of it. I know it's a lot to
ask, but if anyone in or near florida would not mind a passenger for a
little while I would be greatly appreciative. In fact, I can trade some
turbine time for some RV time. Twin otter or porter time is just a phone
call away for me, and I would be happy to put the RV owner who shows me
around a flying version into the cockpit of either of those. I am going to
build an RV-8 so one of those would be even more appreciated.
Bill
orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solenoid Priming |
>
>Larry,
> Of course pumping the throttle on a updraft carb is a bad thing
> so I'll tell you this and you may want to experiment with it.
>1. Throttle closed, mixture closed, Switch off, pull the prop 12 times to
>exercise congealed oil.
>2. Switch off, give two shots of prime, pull prop thru 6 times.
>3. Get in, full rich, throttle cracked 1/2 inch, 1 or 2 shots of prime,
> switch on, start engine.
>This has worked for me many times with great success at 20 deg F and
>sometimes below that.
>Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com Rochester, N.Y.
>
What I am wondering is how a "shot of prime" relates to time on my electric
primer system?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP (As it turned out it was 84 degrees yesterday instead of around
80)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Solenoid Priming |
>
>
>>
>>Larry,
>> Of course pumping the throttle on a updraft carb is a bad thing
>> so I'll tell you this and you may want to experiment with it.
>>1. Throttle closed, mixture closed, Switch off, pull the prop 12 times to
>>exercise congealed oil.
>>2. Switch off, give two shots of prime, pull prop thru 6 times.
>>3. Get in, full rich, throttle cracked 1/2 inch, 1 or 2 shots of prime,
>> switch on, start engine.
>>This has worked for me many times with great success at 20 deg F and
>>sometimes below that.
>>Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com Rochester, N.Y.
>>
>
>
>What I am wondering is how a "shot of prime" relates to time on my electric
>primer system?
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP (As it turned out it was 84 degrees yesterday instead of around
>80)
On my RV-6, with an electric solenoid mounted on top of the gascolator
and plumbing to two cylinders, I'd push the button two times. Each
time/push was about 1/3 to 1/2 second. The electric fuel pump was on
and the pressure on the solenoid was probably in the 6 to 8 psi range.
I used 1/4" flexible lines from the gascolator to the solenoid and the
solenoid to the Tee fitting. Then 1/8" copper lines about 2 1/2' to
each cylinder. I also used the Primer fitting in the cylinder head.
That fitting had a very small hole; IIRC, about the size of a #60
drill bit.
Now, granted, I live on the Wet side of Washington State and, when it
gets below 30 degrees we stay inside. People that live in colder
areas may have to prime more or heat the engine first.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Now you Know!!!! |
Ok, i finally donated so you will quit hounding me!!! just kidding..
jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Pointers and Ramblings |
>
>In regards to painting why does everyone insist on doing it themsleves.
We're all different with different reasons for building, different wallets,
etc.
>I am getting my rocket painted at the local body shop.
How long is the runway at the body shop?
>paint i provided. He has painted over 10,000 cars so he has skills I will
>never have.
Not if you don't start.
Thanks, tho, for suggesting this option!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6A N7HK at new hangar K3 Stockton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clicking Noise |
Probably, as usually the left mag is the one with the impulse coupler.
One way to check is to turn the prop in the opposite direction. Does
the noise go away? If so, the clicking is almost certainly the impulse
coupler.
Scott
Corben N3642
RV-4 tailkit.
Joe Czachorowski wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
> I have a 0-360 A1D Lycoming Overhauled engine that was
> converted to a 0-360 A1A with the removal of the Bendix Mags and the
> installation of new Slicks. The dealer that I bought the engine from
> changed the mags over. Question.... When I pull the prop through with
> the spark plugs out, I can here a loud clicking noise coming from the
> left mag. Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal?
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
> (installing spaghetti to the engine)
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Caps received so far update |
Hey Steve how are you? Saw the list of those who have sent you fuel caps
for engraving. I didn't see my name on the list. I sent my caps in with Gary
Baker. The finished product looks great like all of your work. Let me know if
you don't have them for some reason (my name is on the caps)
I am running an article in our chapter newsletter on your products. (Sorry it
took so long) I will send you a copy. I have had about 10 builders look at
the stuff you gave me and they really liked it. Hope they order.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6 QB control systems ....still ( I hope to be getting to the panel soon and
be back in contact with you for some work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CROWELL,JEFF (HP-Boise,ex1)" <jeff_crowell(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 11/30/99 |
Hi, Tim.
Two ways to Not Blow Yourself Up: either simply ensure the **metal** gas can
spout never loses contact with the side of the filler neck of the tank
(thereby equalizing the static charge as it builds), or connect a ground
line between the can and the aircraft-you can make your own ground line with
just about any electrical wire and a couple of micro alligator clips. Just
make sure that there's bare metal wherever you attach the clips.
The risk arises because the gasoline generates static electrical charge as
it flows out of the can; in fact, static charge is generated as fuel flows
through a hose as well.
Over the last couple of years I've read articles (Sport
Aviation or
AOPA Pilot, I think) on the hazards of refueling aircraft
using 5 gallon
gas cans. The danger is static electricity discharge
causing fire. I'm
looking for a safe way (if there is one) of transfering fuel
this way.
If anybody knows the location of good articles on this topic
please let
me know.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Instrument Panel |
Would appreciate any information concerning building the instrument panel in
sections, similar to the approach used by the Young Eagles. I am hoping to
have three sections - radio rack, flight instruments (pilot side) and engine
instruments (passenger side). Let me know if anyone has done this or has
tried this approach. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Audio Signals (Minimum Audio Panel) |
Bruce,
No mixing audio ouputs is not quite as simple as tieing them together. I
remember seeing an article in Kitplanes on how to do just that. I'll try to
look for it and let you know later.
Anh
N985VU
RV-6
>
>I want to add a second radio to my -6A. The single Terra works OK, but does
>not instill a great level of confidence, especially since it appears that it
>needs to be "Warmed Up" (Ground never hears the first transmission unless I
>go to some unused frequency and talk for a while). Penetrating the San
>Francisco Class B with a single radio, and a portable within reach is not my
>idea of relaxation.
>
>So, I have been looking around. Audio panels are expensive and take a lot of
>space. (I have room for a "normal" radio stack, but it is now a glove box,
>which is more useful than most audio panels). Looked at the P.S. Engineering
>4000 intercom/audio panel, an if I were building a new panel, would go that
>way. The Quite Flite intercom I have works great, and the PS 4000 would not
>quite fit in its place.
>
>Solution is another radio, such as the slim ICOM, or other "cheap" brand.
>Problem is switching the radios. You can use a triple pole, double throw to
>switch the Key, audio output and mike inputs from one radio to another. What
>I want is to do is like an audio panel, and have the switchable option to
>listen to both at the same time. This requires mixing the audio outputs of
>two radios to the single input of the Intercom.
>
>Just attaching the two radio audio outputs together won't work (or will it?).
> Seems foolish to spend $800 for an audio panel to do it, when a couple of
>$15 switches and some Radio Shack parts should do the trick.
>
>Anybody have the circuit?????
>
>Bruce Patton
>RV-6A 596S
>HP-18 5596S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Instrument Panel |
My RV-6 actually has 7 separate panels. They are:
- (1) left panel for 6 flight instruments
- (2) center panel (top) for intercom and trim indicators
- (3) center panel (bottom) for throttle, mixture, carb heat, and flap
switch
- (4) right panel for 9 engine instruments
- (5) right panel (top right) for essential buss switch, alternator warning
light, field circuit breaker, and ELT
- (6) lower panel left side for switches, starter, and primer
- (7) lower panel right side for panel lights, defrost switch, and music
input
Panels 1, 4, and 5 are screw mounted to the original instrument panel
bulkhead. Panels 3 and 4 are built out from the original bulkhead with
angle about 1/2 inch. These panels and the radio stack in between them are
covered by a walnut overlay. Panels 6 and 7 are recessed back from the
original bulkhead and added to the bottom of the original panel. They are
about 2 inches wide. Air inlets and headphone jacks are mounted at the end
of these panels up against the fuselage side wall. All panels are .063
aluminum sheet with countersunk screws. I don't have a web site so no
pictures are available, but I might be able to get a friend to take a
picture that I can send to you. I'd be glad to answer any questions you
might have.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting - Almost Finished"
-----Original Message-----
From: N526ms(at)aol.com <N526ms(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Instrument Panel
>
>Would appreciate any information concerning building the instrument panel
in
>sections, similar to the approach used by the Young Eagles. I am hoping to
>have three sections - radio rack, flight instruments (pilot side) and
engine
>instruments (passenger side). Let me know if anyone has done this or has
>tried this approach. Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Horizontal/Vertical Stab problems |
Thanks for the many responses to my post regarding the problems I'm having
with my HS & VS stabs.
To bring you up to date, Van's advice is that 1/4" deviation from level of
the HS does not pose a flight problem. BUT, I went ahead and fixed it
anyway. On the advice of George Orndorff (who called me at home, thanks
George!), I placed a .032 shim under the right side of the front HS spar,
then since the holes I had drilled through the rear HS spar & F811B posts
no longer aligned, I drilled them out to the next bolt size (AN4).
The end result is that now the HS is almost perfectly level with the
forward fuselage. I'm still off by a 1/16, but that's close enough for me.
Was it all worth it? It was for me, but had I left it as it was it probably
wouldn't have mattered.
Is this a common problem with QB's? Sounds like it from the response. Maybe
I should be mad as hell at Van's, but I'm not because in general, the
workmanship of the Phillippinos is excellent, and most of the time
everything fits up perfectly. I think it's damned hard to design such a
complicated machine without a few glitches. The key is to make changes as
problems occur, and I see Van's doing that all the time.
Thanks again to all those who helped (George, Chris, Moe, etc)
Walt Shipley RV8A QB (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
> I'm having trouble finding the web site address for B&C. Can anybody help?
No WEB, just Email
ALways Check the "Yeller Pages" first:
<http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm>
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exide Orbital Recombinant Battery ? |
>Exide is selling a "recombinant" battery. See www.exideworld.com. How does
>it compare to the recombinant aircraft batteries sold by Concorde and B&C ?
Took a look at this site and it appears that the product
is a descendant of the jelly-roll cells originally
developed and patented over 20 years ago. The cells
were (and still are) marketed under Gate's Energy Products
Cyclon brand for about the past 15 years or more.
When the Gate's patents expired a number of folk
took interest in the technology. When Gates sold
off the battery division, a company in Denver got the
tooling for the big jelly-roll cells while another
company (Hawker I think) took over the litte version.
We use the 2 a.h. cells to this day in our MQM
series targets.
We should expect to see more of the "silo" batteries
to pop up. Exide is a very old and respected name in
rechargable batteries. The technology used in the Orbital
battery is quite mature. These are reasons to believe
their offering is technically near if not at the
top of the heap in the growing field of portable
energy storage devices.
I did get the following from their website:
THE ORBITAL BATTERY IS SENSITIVE TO HIGH VOLTAGE
CHARGING (ABOVE 14.4 VOLTS).THE RECOMMENDATION IS
TO USE A 6 TO 12 AMP, 12 VOLT AUTOMATIC CHARGER SET
AT THE REGULAR SETTING. IF YOU USE A NON- AUTOMATIC
CHARGER, YOU NEED TO MONITOR THE VOLTAGE SO IT
DOES NOT EXCEED 14.4 VOLTS AND/OR 12 AMPS ANYTIME
DURING RECHARGE. THIS BATTERY ONLY NEEDS
RECHARGING IF THE OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (O.C.V.) IS
BELOW 12.5 VOLTS.
Unlke the Gates-now-Hawker products, their recommendations
are more conservative with respect to care and feeding
of the battery. That 14.4V/12A limit is, I believe,
NOT a red-line where exceeding the values means instant
or even accelerated demise of the battery. In automotive
applications where you are encouraged to flog-it-til-
it-dies, the 14.4/12 limits will optomize service life.
This is NOT an inexpensive battery. Further, it's probably
only offered in automotive sizes (24 a.h. or there-abouts)
so it's not a lightweight. Nor is it going to be in-expensive.
In the grand picture of our need for reliable cranking,
and RESERVE energy storage, I would encourage builders
to think lighter, less expensive and REPLACE based on
capacity than to sink a lot of bux into an expensive,
classy car battery and suffer the temptation to flog-
it-til-it-dies.
I found this tid bit on their website too . . .
Because Exide Select orbital can withstand abuses that kill
conventional batteries, it's a perfect choice for many vehicles,
including classic cars, RVs, boats (starting only), taxis, seasonal
and farm equipment.
. . . an interesting contrast to the charging instructions
cited above. The #1 "abuse" suffered by airplane batteries
is long periods of inattention. The very low self-discharge
rates of EVERYBODY's RG battery makes them less susceptable
to loss in storage. But if one interprets the charging
recommendations paragraph as oh-my-gosh-gospel then I'll
suggest the Exide Orbital is no more rugged than most
other RG products on the market.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finished Left Elevator... |
<>
Dimpling Table: http://vondane.tripod.com/logbook/emp/elev5.htm
<>
Thanks Bill Von Dane - these pictures alone were worth the price of
my contribution!!! Guess I'll need to send more next time!
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson N822AR (reserved)
HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Avionics |
I to was concerned about the wiring but if you do one wire at a time,
terminal to terminal. It will work, also its kinda fun after you get started.
You can get help if you get stuck. you will enjoy it just remember that the
tip of the soldering gun gets real hot. N468TC (reserved) Painting this
week , Painter comming to my garage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Instrument Panel |
Yes, I've done that! You can contact me at Tnguyen(at)Oss.Oceaneering.com for additional
info.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
>>> 12/01/99 07:10AM >>>
Would appreciate any information concerning building the instrument panel in
sections, similar to the approach used by the Young Eagles. I am hoping to
have three sections - radio rack, flight instruments (pilot side) and engine
instruments (passenger side). Let me know if anyone has done this or has
tried this approach. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Cell Battery |
>Bob:
>
>Where can I get one of the 17-amp gel cells you mentioned?
>
>Dick Carden
>
Ain't no such thing as a gel cell any more. The recombinant
gas batteries are sold by EVERYBODY. There are a half
dozen consumer battery stores in Wichita that handle
the 17 a.h. class battery. Look for brands like Panasonic,
Yuasa, Powersonic, etc. If the battery is "sealed lead
acid", has dimensions on the order of 3" x 6.5" x 6.5"
and has terminals that will accept 4AWG wire attached with
1/4" bolts, then it's what you want. They shouldn't cost
you more than $65.
Don't buy your flight battery until you're ready to fly
the airplane. Jury-rig a car or garden tractor battery
into your system for ground testing or use a ground
power supply like . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#gpu14-23
Go buy your flight battery the day before you take the
airplane to the airport.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Cell Battery |
>
> Don't buy your flight battery until you're ready to fly
> the airplane. Jury-rig a car or garden tractor battery
I watched the trash area at SJC where there is a battery disposal
pallet. I took home a few concord/gills (not RG) and charged them up. Two
now serve as weights and one is very usable.
Maybe someone follows Bob' advice and chucks them before they are ultra-dead.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
>
>Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>> I'm having trouble finding the web site address for B&C. Can anybody help?
>
>No WEB, just Email
>
Call them at 316.283.8000
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
>
> >Hello I am just starting to rivet how critical dose the shop head have to
>be
> >dose it have to be exact or can it be a 64th off in height or wider than
>the
> >gage what the limit.
>
>Someone posted something about this a while back -- I think it was some
>manufacturer's liturature, to the effect that rivets have to be pretty bad
>before they lose significant structural integrity. Should be in the archives
>if you can find it. Plus RVs are over-engineered enough so that a small
>percentage of bad rivets won't compromise safety.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
Randall,
That was actually an article by Ken Scott that appeared in the RVator a
while back and it was a summary of manufacturers info. FWIW I dont drill
out and replace any rivet unless it is grossly out of spec. I find that
since the hole is opened up a little by driving that first rivet,
attempting to drive a second rivet in that same wallowed out hole is likely
to result in another poorly set rivet. Just my opinion.
Mike Wills
RV4 finishing canopy
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Tom,
Does the steel wool rust and go away with the heat or is it lasting OK?
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cold
>
> Go to your local restaurant supply house and get a stainless
> steel scrub pad. Tear it up into pieces and put them in your
> heat muff. You will not believe how well it works. Increased
> temp 15+ degrees in my RV3. Works much better than springs.
> Been there tried that.
> Tom
> RV3 978TM
> Northern California
>
> Mitch Robbins wrote:
>
> >
> > One can be plenty if it's set up right. I flew my 4 in PHX for several
> > years and didn't know how poor the heat was until I moved to MSP where
I've
> > flown down to about -20F. Seal the cold air leaks as well as possible.
> > There are two potential issues with the muffs. Check for air flow and
clean
> > up, or change the duct work/inlet so you have positive air flow coming
> > through. You can improve the heat transfer from the muffs by increasing
the
> > surface area of hot metal inside. Tony Bengelis describes several
methods
> > in his books. The most often used seems to be wrapping screen door
springs
> > around the manifold inside the muff to provide more hot surface area.
This
> > may also slow down the flow some creating less, but hotter air. Good
luck.
> >
> > > Who knows how to get some heat in the 8 cabin? I have two muffs, in
> > series,
> > > which give me a LITTLE heat, but not very much.
> > > Also, what is good for side panels inside cabin for insulation/sound
> > proofing?
> > > Thanks.
> > > hilljw(at)aol.com
> > > rv8a
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Hrycauk <dhrycauk(at)ccinet.ab.ca> |
Check with Avery Tools, they have a neat device that checks your shop heads of
your rivets. They also have another tool that checks rivet length before
riveting. Excellent tools and cheap considering the amount of rivets you will
be
smashing.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Wings
Bonnyville, AB Canada
http://www.incenter.net/dhrycauk/index.htm
WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello I am just starting to rivet how critical dose the shop head have to be
> dose it have to be exact or can it be a 64th off in height or wider than the
> gage what the limit. If the rivet head is not squire can I hit it again to
> squire up. How many times can I get away drilling out the rivet without going
> to the next size up.
> IM just trying to figure out if I am being to picky I like things to be
> precision and exact but my rivet heads seem to vary a little. Thanks Bill.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Thank you! I have been staring at my tank forever trying to think of a way
to fix a couple of leaks without an access hole being drilled.
But...what about the original rivet remnants that are rolling around inside
the tank? How are they dealt with?
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID USA
>
>
> > Any creative solutions short of cutting an access hole, applying a
> > fillet
> > of pro seal at the baffle, skin, shop head location?
>-
>Use one of the closed end blind rivets that is used to install the rear
>baffle on the tank (forgot part #).
>You can reform the head so that it is a flush (for the most part anyway)
>...snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
I too do not replace rivets unless they're way off or damaged. One technique
to use for the replacement rivet is squeeze a longer rivet ever-so-slightly
to fit the damaged hole (the hole will be damaged -everything is relative)
then buck the replacement.
John Sheppard (RV8 tanks)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randall Henderson
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 12:05 AM
Subject: RivEts (was Re: RV-List: Rivits)
>Hello I am just starting to rivet how critical dose the shop head have to
be
>dose it have to be exact or can it be a 64th off in height or wider than
the
>gage what the limit.
Someone posted something about this a while back -- I think it was some
manufacturer's liturature, to the effect that rivets have to be pretty bad
before they lose significant structural integrity. Should be in the archives
if you can find it. Plus RVs are over-engineered enough so that a small
percentage of bad rivets won't compromise safety.
>If the rivet head is not squire can I hit it again to squire up.
Sure, as long as you don't flatten it out TOO much.
>How many times can I get away drilling out the rivet without going
>to the next size up.
Could be zero, could be several. It depends on the type and size of rivet,
how the thick material it's going through is, how big the rivet is, and how
good a job of drilling it out you do. I suggest practicing drilling out
rivets of various sizes in various thicknesses and see how wallowed out the
hole can get before you can't drive a good rivet. Also be aware you can use
NAS1097 "cheater" rivets that have the same size head but a bigger shaft, so
you can drill to a larger size but don't have to redo the dimple or have a
fatter head in the middle of a row of small ones. These are available from
Van's. Don't want to use too many of them but they're nice to fix a boo-boo
here and there.
>IM just trying to figure out if I am being to picky I like things to be
>precision and exact but my rivet heads seem to vary a little. Thanks Bill.
Chances are you're being too picky, but there's nothing wrong with that!
Sometimes it's a good idea to just move on and then come back later when
you're more experienced and reevaluate whether you want to redo/rebuild.
Also check out the rivets on the certified planes on the flight line for
comparison some time. You might be surprised!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Caps received so far update |
Listers:
OOOPPPPSSSS.... Sorry......meant for Steve Davis who is doing our fuel cap
engraving.
In a message dated 12/1/99 8:14:54 AM, GLPalinkas(at)aol.com writes:
Hey Steve how are you? Saw the list of those who have sent you fuel caps
for engraving. I didn't see my name on the list. I sent my caps in with Gary
Baker. The finished product looks great like all of your work. Let me know if
you don't have them for some reason (my name is on the caps)
I am running an article in our chapter newsletter on your products. (Sorry it
took so long) I will send you a copy. I have had about 10 builders look at
the stuff you gave me and they really liked it. Hope they order.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV6 QB control systems ....still ( I hope to be getting to the panel soon and
be back in contact with you for some work)
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Clicking Noise |
Joe,
Yes and yes
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:46:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, Joe Czachorowski
writes:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Joe Czachorowski
>
> Guys,
> I have a 0-360 A1D Lycoming Overhauled engine that was
> converted to a 0-360 A1A with the removal of the Bendix Mags and the
> installation of new Slicks. The dealer that I bought the engine from
> changed the mags over. Question.... When I pull the prop through with
> the spark plugs out, I can here a loud clicking noise coming from the
> left mag. Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal?
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
> (installing spaghetti to the engine)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 14:09:47 -0600 |
For all those looking for a deal on a drill press or HVLP spray gun, check
out the following items from Harbor Freight. I bought one of the HVLP guns
a while back and I've been very happy with it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/t/h.taf?acct 01055&c=1
Mike Nellis
http://www.mindspring.com/~mnellis1/rv6_log
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alumaprep and Alodyne rinse removal |
Another variation of the 6" PVC is to cut it in half length-wise, put caps on both
ends and tie it to a couple of small pieces of wood for legs so it won't roll.
It worked great for the long pieces and then I just cut it down as necessary
for the shorter pieces so I wouldn't use as much alodyne. I used the other
halp for the alumiprep/etch. Worked great.
Mike Robertson
RV8A QB
In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 1:43:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Randall
Henderson" writes:
>
> >What did you use for large tubs, how large are they and where did you find
> >them?
>
>
> Got the tubs at Home Base -- I think the largest was 3' x 2' and a little
> over 1' deep. Black molded plastic, not too expensive. Don't remember
> exactly how much tho. Wouldn't have minded having some even bigger once in a
> while.
>
> I also used a long piece of 6" PVC pipe, permanently capped at one end and
> with a removable cap at the other, for long pieces (angles and such). Put
> the parts in, pour the solution in, cap the top end and slosh it around.
> Works great! The gutter idea is also a good one but I never tried that.
>
> Randall
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
>N191XC has two Robbins heat muffs in series on Vetterman exhaust. Although
>it is a 6, not an 8, here in Wyoming at altitude, which is up there
>(6500-8500) I've been comfotable at 20 degrees without a jacket. There is a
>noticable difference when the sun is behind a cloud. Try a heat sink (door
>spring, extruded grating, etc.) inside the muffs. Can you insulate the scat
>tube through the forward baggage compartment?
>
The heat sink is very easy to make. Take a rod about the same diameter as
the inside diameter of the "spring" to be made. Put it in a cordless drill
and wind 0.40 stainless steel safety wire on the rod. Presto, one heat
sink made to the exact length and diameter as needed. It took me less time
to make than it took to write this e-mail.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: a dumb thought, any dumb answers |
Rob
I have seen pictures of a Mustang ll that did this, check it out in Kent
Paser's book Speed with Economy, available from the RV Bookstore. Kent has
a lot of good ideas of how to clean up your airplane.
Disclaimer Note: this response is only for those who believe the RV can be
cleaned up, if you think otherwise, disregard this post.
Bob Busick
RV6
>Has anyone ever seen an RV in which someone has put a fairing on the
>tailwheel rod/spring?........
............, and I was trying to think of
>areas I could clean up to compensate for some of these "niceties."
>
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Audio Signals (Minimum Audio Panel) |
-----Original Message-----
From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com <BPattonsoa(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 9:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mixing Audio Signals (Minimum Audio Panel)
>Solution is another radio, such as the slim ICOM, or other "cheap" brand.
>Problem is switching the radios. You can use a triple pole, double throw
to
>switch the Key, audio output and mike inputs from one radio to another.
What
>I want is to do is like an audio panel, and have the switchable option to
>listen to both at the same time. This requires mixing the audio outputs of
>two radios to the single input of the Intercom.
>
>Just attaching the two radio audio outputs together won't work (or will
it?).
> Seems foolish to spend $800 for an audio panel to do it, when a couple of
>$15 switches and some Radio Shack parts should do the trick.
>
>Anybody have the circuit?????
>
>Bruce Patton
>RV-6A 596S
>HP-18 5596S
My C172 has 2 NavComs, ext HT, DME and ADF all talking at once if I want w/o
audio panel. I have 10K ohm isolation resistors on audio outputs to phones.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EAA 486 Web, N58DM First Flight (new Photos) |
N58DM First Flight
http://www.web-flight.com/486/FirstFlt.htm
4 Piece removable dash too
7.5+ hours now.
Later
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
There is a solution! In my antique car restorations I used a product call
POR-15. They should have a web site and if not can be found in adds in
hemmings motor news. Long story short- it is a paint that when dry is fuel,
acid, stripper proof. It is designed to penetrate rust and stop it
permenantly. It dries hard as porcelan and shines the same. It has to be
covered or sunlight breaks it down. I had blind rivets that were leaking and
cleaned the rivets then painted the heads. No more leaks. Only other
solution is to get a tank sealer and slosh the tank. By the way, I am a
A&P,IA and chief inspector so have little desire to endorse bad products.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Tyrrel <charliet(at)vcn.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 9:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leaking fuel tank rivets
>
>Listers
>
>Thinking that a professional (London) tank would be bullet proof and money
>well spent:
>
>I've now had four leaks. At the root rib (fixed with an external fillet of
>pro seal), a tip rib (to be fixed the same way) and now, two rivets at the
>juncture of the top of the tank baffle and the skin.
>
>Any creative solutions short of cutting an access hole, applying a fillet
>of pro seal at the baffle, skin, shop head location? And then close up the
>access hole! I'd try a dab of pro seal on the factory head and then hope it
>doesn't look terribly bad after the paint job. At least I'm not painted.
>There is a good reason to fly now, paint later. Skinner thinks the dab
>would be very noticable (and prone to failure). Maybe unpainted wings are
>in my future.
>
>BTW, I'm having a ball- ten hours since the end of the test period.
>Fourteen flights including six Young Eagles. Learning eights and wingovers.
>Van sells a heck of an airplane.
>
>
>Charlie Tyrrel, Gillette, WY RV6A N191XC 50 hours
>
> http://www.vcn.com/~charliet
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron Paint Buffing |
Dupont polish 1500S, made for the purpose. Works great, we use it on our
helicopters and achieve glasslike shine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 1:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Imron Paint Buffing
>
>With all of the "paint" messages flying around lately, I'm almost hesitant
>to post this.
>
>Anyone out there have actual experience buffing out Imron clear? I'm
>interested in what product you used and how you felt the results were.
>
>Currently, I'm applying Imron clear over Imron metal flake over Corlar
>primer. The final results look very good but there is the occasional fleck
>of dust. I plan to buff out the surfaces after I get the bird in the air
>(maybe).
>
>Actually, the defects are not very noticeable and the painted surfaces are
>very smooth. I don't want to make the situation worse by buffing if the
>clear can't/shouldn't be buffed.
>
>Any real world experience would be appreciated.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>"Painting"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
If you have an engine and constant speed propeller straight out of overhaul
and no log books can you just start new log books starting with the overhaul
information.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Quick Build Kit for Sale |
RV6A Quick build kit for sale. The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $16,000.00 lets talk. My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Cell Battery |
What about a 12 Volt power supply from Radio Shack if you have one laying
around ? I used on to power a Mobile Ham Radio for years ! Tom in Oh.
----------
> From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Gel Cell Battery
> Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 10:37 AM
>
>
> >
>
> > Don't buy your flight battery until you're ready to fly
> > the airplane. Jury-rig a car or garden tractor battery
>
> I watched the trash area at SJC where there is a battery disposal
> pallet. I took home a few concord/gills (not RG) and charged them up.
Two
> now serve as weights and one is very usable.
>
> Maybe someone follows Bob' advice and chucks them before they are
ultra-dead.
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne - SJC
> RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar H-13
> Debonair N6134V for sale
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
Looking to possibly buy a RV6A kit in the final stages of completion.
Excelent workmanship a must. Cash on hand and ready to buy the correct
project that has stalled out in your garage. Respond via email to
dustin(at)busprod.com. Thank you. DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Clicking Noise |
i am in process of building a 6, and need regulations re: strobe lights. i
nearly got run over years ago and now want to be as visible as possible. i
plan to strobe wing tips and tail (rudder). my question is if i were to
strobe the belly need i strobe the top (vertical stab)??? in looking at vans
accessories catalog, it appears i need to be visible (strobe) from above???
(+ or - 30 degrees above and below horizonal plane) any thoughts about using
school bus strobe on belly?? any suggestions i would appreciate. bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
Tom - do you know anyone who has a lathe? I took an inexpensive regular
flaring tool to a buddy and he turned a 37 1/2 degree surface on it. Works
great!
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Quick Build Kit for Sale |
RV6A Quick build kit for sale. The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $16,000.00 lets talk. My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Quick Build Kit for Sale |
I am sorry, I am located in Dublin, CA.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Quick Build Kit for Sale
>
> RV6A Quick build kit for sale. The kit was bought in 1998 with the
following
> options :
>
> 1. Sliding Canopy.
> 2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
> 3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
> 4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
> 5. Electric Flap option.
> 6. Firewall Recess Kit.
> 7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
> 8.Fresh Air Vent System.
> 9. External Step kit both sides.
> 10. Static Air Kit.
> 11. Dual Brake Kit.
>
> The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
> The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
> The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
>
> I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
> Asking $16,000.00 lets talk. My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my
E-mail
> address is
> pjbodie(at)home.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I need some help with a very simple circuit design (the shelf life of my
'77 CIS engineering degree seems to have expired). I want to light a stack
of 9 LED's based on the position of a small magnet and an array of
reed-type switches. My attempt has problems with voltage drop through the
diodes so that they get less and less bright down the stack. I can e-mail
scan you a diagram of what I have. kevin TTD portland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV VG's costs |
----------
> From: Todd Leighton <todd(at)aerotestsvc.com>
> To: n3773(at)mciworld.com
> Subject: Re: RV VG's
> Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 9:46 AM
>
> Kevin,
>
> The RV-6 kit comes with an installation manual, wing placement templates,
> VG's, placement string, scotch pad and mounting glue. Basically
everything
> you need to put the kit on in an evening, assuming the VG's are already
> painted.
> > >
> > > Thank you for your interest in our VG kits. As you already know we
do
> > have
> > > an RV-6 kit available and the current price is $495.00 plus shipping
and
> > > handling. The VG's can be painted any color you like which we can do
> for an addition cost ($125) or you can do yourself. If you are
interested in
> > > talking to another RV-6 pilot, Terry Burch is a local pilot who has
the
> > kit.the process is very straight forward and should be no trouble
> > for
> > > you. We are of course available if you have any questions during the
> > > installation. Once again Kevin thank you for your interest in our VG
> > kits
> > > and if you have any further questions let me know.
> > >
> > > Best Regards,
> > >
> > > Todd Leighton
> > > ATS, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Clicking Noise & other stuff |
> Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal?
Yes, Joe, no problem. Impulse "clack" and perfectly normal.
Nice to see some traffic on this list finally. I subscribed to it a few
weeks ago, and hadn't seen anything until this message.
By way of introduction, I'm Joe Norris from Wisconsin Rapids, WI. I'm a
long-time EAA member, and have previously built a Sonerai and converted a
Tri-Pacer to Pacer configuration. I am a CFI, A&P, and IA.
As for RV-8 activity, I have an engine and will soon be ordering an RV-8
quickbuild kit. Gotta finish up a couple other small non-aviation projects
in the shop first in order to make room!
Looking forward to chatting with other RV-8 builders as time goes on!
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Floor Coatings for garage/hangars |
All,
I recieved so many inquiries as to the industrial floor coating in my
garage (quite overwhelming) that I am having my friend at Plastite
Protective Coatings put together a "homebuilders special" and he is in
the process of putting together pricing. I should have this within the
week or Monday at the latest. Thanks for the responses.
Jason Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
The answer is maybe...Now that that answer is clear as mud let me expand a bit.
If you are going to utilize these on Experimental aircraft then you can but
I would still have reservations. Let me get into the Standard category aircraft
and maybe you will understand.
For Standard Category aircraft you will be able to use them once you have proven
that ALL Airworthiness Directives have been complied with. Some of these A.D.s
are very significant and I, personally, would not ANY aircraft unless I knew
their status.
It has been argued that A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft. It has also
been argued that while A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft they do
aply to the engine/propeller/appliances in them. I do not want to get into that
here but think about who's butt is going to be the aircraft and decide for
yourself.
My question is this: If they are fresh out of overhaul then who did the overhaul
and why are there no logbooks with A.D. signoffs?
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB wiring it up
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 7:52:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Pete & Delee
Bodie" writes:
>
> If you have an engine and constant speed propeller straight out of overhaul
> and no log books can you just start new log books starting with the overhaul
> information.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Clicking Noise |
The wingtip strobe units meet the regs ok. If you added a strobe to the
belly it would just add icing on the cake.
Bill Pagan
N565BW waiting to be inspected by FAA
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>i am in process of building a 6, and need regulations re: strobe lights. i
>nearly got run over years ago and now want to be as visible as possible. i
>plan to strobe wing tips and tail (rudder). my question is if i were to
>strobe the belly need i strobe the top (vertical stab)??? in looking at vans
>accessories catalog, it appears i need to be visible (strobe) from above???
>(+ or - 30 degrees above and below horizonal plane) any thoughts about using
>school bus strobe on belly?? any suggestions i would appreciate. bob in
>arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <racker(at)cyberhighway.net> |
I've decided to leave the list. I'll be continuing to update my RV-6Q web
page each time I finish off another roll of film. There's an e-mail link
for those wishing to stay in touch.
Good luck on your projects, and hope to meet you at a fly-in someday!
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff, http://fp1.cyberhighway.net/~racker)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
The problem is not getting the right angle turned on the tool. The problem
is most automotive are set up for steel tubing. The clamp has top be
stronger so they put some sharp little ridges in the clamp. This is fine
for Steel but produces stress-risers in aluminum tubing. We lost a plane at
Oshkosh because an automotive flanging tool clamp was used on an oil line.
It broke at the clamp damage, killed all aboard in the forced landing.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6Russ(at)aol.com <RV6Russ(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaring Tool Wanted
>
>Tom - do you know anyone who has a lathe? I took an inexpensive regular
>flaring tool to a buddy and he turned a 37 1/2 degree surface on it. Works
>great!
>Russ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Bryan
Its not steel wool, its a stainless steel scrub pad. Doesn't
rust. Used for two winters so far, no problems yet. I'm in
a fairly humid climate (Norther California coastal area).
I got the idea from Larry Vitterman himself.
Tom
RV3
Nothern California
Bryan E. Files wrote:
>
> Tom,
> Does the steel wool rust and go away with the heat or is it lasting OK?
> **** Bryan E. Files ****
> Ever Fly Maintenance
> Palmer, Alaska
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 7:14 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: cold
>
>
> >
> > Go to your local restaurant supply house and get a stainless
> > steel scrub pad. Tear it up into pieces and put them in your
> > heat muff. You will not believe how well it works. Increased
> > temp 15+ degrees in my RV3. Works much better than springs.
> > Been there tried that.
> > Tom
> > RV3 978TM
> > Northern California
> >
> > Mitch Robbins wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > One can be plenty if it's set up right. I flew my 4 in PHX for several
> > > years and didn't know how poor the heat was until I moved to MSP where
> I've
> > > flown down to about -20F. Seal the cold air leaks as well as possible.
> > > There are two potential issues with the muffs. Check for air flow and
> clean
> > > up, or change the duct work/inlet so you have positive air flow coming
> > > through. You can improve the heat transfer from the muffs by increasing
> the
> > > surface area of hot metal inside. Tony Bengelis describes several
> methods
> > > in his books. The most often used seems to be wrapping screen door
> springs
> > > around the manifold inside the muff to provide more hot surface area.
> This
> > > may also slow down the flow some creating less, but hotter air. Good
> luck.
> > >
> > > > Who knows how to get some heat in the 8 cabin? I have two muffs, in
> > > series,
> > > > which give me a LITTLE heat, but not very much.
> > > > Also, what is good for side panels inside cabin for insulation/sound
> > > proofing?
> > > > Thanks.
> > > > hilljw(at)aol.com
> > > > rv8a
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Audio Signals (Minimum Audio Panel) |
Found the articles. They're in Kitplanes Aug 98 and Oct 98 issues. I can
send copies of them or fax them if you want. Give me your info.
Anh
N985VU
RV-6
>
>Bruce,
>No mixing audio ouputs is not quite as simple as tieing them together. I
>remember seeing an article in Kitplanes on how to do just that. I'll try to
>look for it and let you know later.
>
>Anh
>N985VU
>RV-6
>
>>
>>I want to add a second radio to my -6A. The single Terra works OK, but does
>>not instill a great level of confidence, especially since it appears that it
>>needs to be "Warmed Up" (Ground never hears the first transmission unless I
>>go to some unused frequency and talk for a while). Penetrating the San
>>Francisco Class B with a single radio, and a portable within reach is not my
>>idea of relaxation.
>>
>>So, I have been looking around. Audio panels are expensive and take a lot of
>>space. (I have room for a "normal" radio stack, but it is now a glove box,
>>which is more useful than most audio panels). Looked at the P.S. Engineering
>>4000 intercom/audio panel, an if I were building a new panel, would go that
>>way. The Quite Flite intercom I have works great, and the PS 4000 would not
>>quite fit in its place.
>>
>>Solution is another radio, such as the slim ICOM, or other "cheap" brand.
>>Problem is switching the radios. You can use a triple pole, double throw to
>>switch the Key, audio output and mike inputs from one radio to another. What
>>I want is to do is like an audio panel, and have the switchable option to
>>listen to both at the same time. This requires mixing the audio outputs of
>>two radios to the single input of the Intercom.
>>
>>Just attaching the two radio audio outputs together won't work (or will it?).
>> Seems foolish to spend $800 for an audio panel to do it, when a couple of
>>$15 switches and some Radio Shack parts should do the trick.
>>
>>Anybody have the circuit?????
>>
>>Bruce Patton
>>RV-6A 596S
>>HP-18 5596S
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Tom,
> Does the steel wool rust and go away with the heat or is it lasting
> OK?
Don't use steel wool. It will rust and it is to dense to pass much air.
All of the planes at Van's have stainless steel pot scrubber pads in
them.
They are very open and pass a lot of air, but still heat transfer area
than a spring.
They can be bought in most housewares departments.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Thank you! I have been staring at my tank forever trying to think
> of a way
> to fix a couple of leaks without an access hole being drilled.
>
> But...what about the original rivet remnants that are rolling around
> inside
> the tank? How are they dealt with?
>
If done correctly (grease to catch the shavings) the only thing that
falls inside is the shop head of the rivet. If you can rattle it around
in the tank
(assuming a removed tank) you can work it towards the outer most bay in
the tank and then retrieve it through the filler hole using a stick with
some sticky tape on the end.
If the tank is not removed, the fuel pickup tube screen should be able to
trap anything this large.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: a dumb thought, any dumb answers |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Rob
>
> I have seen pictures of a Mustang ll that did this, check it out in
> Kent
> Paser's book Speed with Economy, available from the RV Bookstore.
> Kent has
> a lot of good ideas of how to clean up your airplane.
>
> Disclaimer Note: this response is only for those who believe the RV
> can be
> cleaned up, if you think otherwise, disregard this post.
>
> Bob Busick
> RV6
>
>
> >Has anyone ever seen an RV in which someone has put a fairing on
> the
> >tailwheel rod/spring?........
> ............, and I was trying to think of
> >areas I could clean up to compensate for some of these "niceties."
> >
> >
> >Rob Reece
> >RV-3 SN45
>
Not to imply that the tail spring doesn't contribute to drag, but at the
sharp angle that it is presented to the relative wind it is not very
much.
You would do much better in the drag reduction dept. if you find a way to
clean up the drag caused by the steering chains and springs for the tail
wheel steering.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
hay
If you guys would like my dad could build you costom made welded .080
aluminum tanks ..... we could do swap sort of things... you would only need
to buy the two spouts and the fuel cap
sincerly erik h baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-4 "bag contents list" |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Check the archives. I downloaded an Excel spreadsheet that some intrepid
> builder put together listing the contents of each bag. I can't recall where
> I got it, though.
There's an Excel spreadsheet (and derived HTML web page) for RV-6 and (I
think) RV-8. None that I know of for the RV-4, but maybe one of the
other lists might still be useful?
I have the RV-6 list at http://members.xoom.com/frankv/rv_parts.htm
(103KB).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | lighting (strobe) question |
in process of building a 6. need advise/input re: strobe lights. i want to
be highly visible during the day and will do some night flying. i plan to
install wing tip strobes (outside of wing). i really want to have strobe
-possibly school bus or something powerful on belly. in looking at vans
accessories catalogu it appears that i must have strobe on top of vert stab
or top of fusel. i also plan to have strobe in rudder. nearly got run over
long time ago and want to be seen. any suggestions re this sub will be
appreciated. i am finishing vert stab and need to run pull chord if ... i
need to. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
He may have done a great job on the cone, but did he also reshape the cup
that the pipe is pressed into? Were the pipe grips polished off the tool so
that there will be no stress risers left on the completed flair. It would
seem to me that the correct tool would be a good choice in this area as a
broken or leaking fluid line could really ruin your day.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
---Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaring Tool Wanted
>Tom - do you know anyone who has a lathe? I took an inexpensive regular
>flaring tool to a buddy and he turned a 37 1/2 degree surface on it. Works
>great!
>Russ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>I need some help with a very simple circuit design (the shelf life of my
>'77 CIS engineering degree seems to have expired). I want to light a stack
>of 9 LED's based on the position of a small magnet and an array of
>reed-type switches. My attempt has problems with voltage drop through the
>diodes so that they get less and less bright down the stack. I can e-mail
>scan you a diagram of what I have. kevin TTD portland
This is probably because you are using one resistor to set the
current level for all of the LEDs . . . You need to set it up
with a resistor and reed switch for EACH LED. Led's are about
2 volt devices, Depending on the brightness you want, the
resistor for each lamp can be as low as 330 ohms each. If the
lights are too bright, then increase the resistor value until
you have the intensity you want.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michial Thompson <michialt(at)uspilots.net> |
| Subject: | Want to trade!!! |
Anyone within about 6 hours of Dallas interested in trading a Stalled
RV-4/3 project for a '76 Corvette.
If so give me a call @ 817-312-2041 or email me off the list for details!
Michial M. Thompson
System Administrator/Programmer/Owner
US Pilots Network
http://www.uspilots.net/
817-274-1590
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
A friend used this trick. Put your vacuum cleaner in the fuel tank and turn
it on. As the pressure is unequal put a dab of pro seal on the leaking rivet
and it should suck into the leak sealing it up. He was very successful in
stopping his leaks that way.N 468TC (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Caps received todate |
Updated List (Received So Far)
Ray Grenier
Steve Hamer
Wes Hayes
David Stafford
Al Mojzisik
Forrest Copeland
Dennis Persyk
Chris Hand
Marty Emrath
Ed Ward
John Lane
Larry Bowen
Jim Lane
Rick McBride
Len Leggete
Jack Blomgren
Greg Young
Jerry Calvert
Pat Hatch
Laird Owens
Todd Margargie
Dave Bumham
Gary Baker
Harry Crosby
Bob Japundza
Steve Macinnis
Doug Shenk
Shelby Smith
Gary Fesenbek
Marty Sailer
Chris Good
Ross Brieglob
Phil Smith
P Clohan
Joe Waltz
David Grover
David Rowbotham
Alan Kritzman
Rich Crosley
Walt Shipley
Dave Fletcher
Jerry Isler
Steve Dineri
Mike Munn
David Ahrens
Jeff Farrar
Jerry Carter
F Medler (I need you to call me Please I don't have a phone number for you
Joe Czachorowski
Alex Stricklan
John Abel
Thanks, Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | New Site: SourceRV.com! |
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above!
FYI...SourceRV.com is now officially announced and open for
pre-registration. Press release attached.
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
InfoAv Corporation Announces SourceRV.com Service
Beaverton, Oregon, 1 December 1999 - InfoAv Corporation announced today the
upcoming availability of a new resource for enthusiasts, builders, and
pilots of RV homebuilt aircraft. Produced in cooperation with Van's
Aircraft, Inc., this Internet-based service, called SourceRV.com, will debut
mid-December of this year.
SourceRV.com will be the portal for RV information on the World Wide Web.
With an increasing number of people joining the Internet daily, it is an
ideal place for easy and timely dissemination of information and builder
resources. SourceRV.com will centralize information currently spread
throughout the Internet, plus contain a host of resources not available
on-line.
Highlights include:
-an extensive collection of technical articles and builder's tips
-the archive of Van's RVator company newsletter
-a searchable database of Van's technical support
-plans revisions
-builder contributed information on stumbling points
-service bulletin history
-safety and maintenance articles
-large collection of completed RV photographs
-instrument panel layouts
-construction photos
-news relevant to the RV builder and pilot
-plus a whole lot more.
Because SourceRV.com is independent from Van's Aircraft, a small monthly fee
is charged to provide the service ($2.00 per month with 12-month
subscription, or $2.50 per month with a 6-month subscription). Customers can
sign up through the SourceRV.com web site, or through Van's Aircraft. Anyone
signing up in December will receive free access until January 1, 2000.
Customers can pre-register for SourceRV.com now at www.sourcerv.com.
If you have any questions regarding our service, please feel free to contact
us:
Web: www.sourcerv.com
E-mail: info(at)sourcerv.com
Phone: 503.649.6983
Postal: InfoAv Corporation P.O. Box 5084 Beaverton, OR 97006-0084
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | 1999 List of Contributors #1 and a Special Thank You Message!! |
Dear Listers,
I would like to personally thank each and everyone that has contributed
this year to 1999 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from the list of
names below, there were many, many generous people from the Lists this
time around and I want everyone to know just how much your support has
meant to me. The list of members below includes those that have
contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that
have contributed throughout the year and also those that made a donation
to my Legal Defense Fund earlier in the year that was sponsored my our
own Bob Nuckolls of Aero Electric.
I want everyone to know just how much it means to me to receive the type
of financial support for these Lists that I have this year. As the Lists
have grown so much over the last few years, so have the equipment costs
as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet connectivity. Your
generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the year, truly makes
the continued operation, and more importantly, the continued upgrade and
improvement of these aviation-related services directly possible. That
is the bottom line. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of the
amazing and, at times, overwhelming generosity of so many of you
wonderful people! Thank you!!
For those of you that didn't quite get your contribution in on time for
this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I
will be posting a followup List of Contributors #2 for 1999 in a few
weeks to make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the
generous List members. One last time, the addresses to make a contribution
are:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Finally, thank you all so much for your support this year both in terms
of the financial contribution but also in the form of the letters and
moral support during what can only be categorized as a very stressful and
unsettling time. And I think you know what I'm referring to... Your
support and encouragement meant more to me than you'll ever know. I felt
as if I had 2500 friends all behind me, and that's a *powerful* force!
Well done one and all! Thank you!
Best regards for the upcoming year.
Your Email List Administrator,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder #1763
=================== 1999 List of Contributors #1 ===================
Abell, John
Acker, Rob
Adams, Bob
Adamson, Larry
Ahamer, Karl
Albachten, Rudy III
Alcazar, Jesus
Allen, Brent
Allison, Steven
Ammeter, John
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Edward
Armstrong, Robert
Arnold, James
Aronson, David
Ashford, James
Ashton, Kent
Atkinson, Harold
Baggett, Robert
Baker, Gary
Baker, Ray
Baldwin, James
Barlow, Melvin
Barnes, Thomas
Barnes, Tom
Barnhart, Dave
Barrenechea, Godo
Battles, Brenton
BB Diversified Services, LTD
Bechtel, Amos
Bell, Bruce
Belted Air Power LTD.
Benhan, Dallas
Bennett, Peter
Besing, Paul
Bieber, Mike
Bilodeau, Paul
Bird, Carroll
Blanton, Stan
Bleier, Roger
Blomgren, Jack
Blum, Ronald
Boadright, Kyle
Boardman, Don III
Boatright, Kyle
Boatright, Robert
Bodie, Pete
Bonesteel, Wayne
Booze, Gregory
Borne, Charles
Bourgeois, Rion
Bourne, Larry
Bovan Pe, Vaso
Bowen, Larry
Bowen, Miles
Bower, Bob
Bowhay, Eustace
Bowman, Brian R
Boyd, Rodney
Branscomb, Warren
Bray, Garrett
Brian Lloyd
Brick, John
Bridgham, David
Brogley, Mike
Brooks, Chris
Brooks, John
Brott, Marvin
Brown, Kent
Brown, Scott
Buckwalter, David - Avionics Systems
Burlingame, Ralph
Burnham, Dave
Calhoun, Ronald
Calvert, Jerry
Cantrell, Ken
Capen, Ralph
Cardinal, Gregory
Carey, Christopher
Carr, David
Carter, Jerry
Carter, Ron
Casey, Jeremy
Chapple, Glen
Chesnut, Bruce
Chesnut, William
Christensen, Peter
Christie, William
Churchill, Frank
Ciolino, John
Clabots, Gerald
Clark, Howard
Clark, James
Clary, Buck
Clay, Dennis
Cloughley, Bill
Cole, Ed
Colontonio, Moe
Colucci, Anthoney
Conaway, James
Cook, David Sr.
Cooley, John
Copeland, Forrest
Corder, Michael
Corriveau, Grant
Cotter, Timothy
Cox, Carson
Croby, Harry
Crosley, Richard
Cullen, Chuck
Czinkota, Garnet
Dall, Richard
Daudt, Larry
Davidson, Jeff
Davis, Christopher
Davis, Jared
Davis, Steve - The Panel Pilot
Davis, William
Day, Robert
Deffner, David
Del Peso, Jose
Derrik, Chuck
Desmond, Richard
Devine, Steven
Devlin, John
Dewees, Ron
Dial, J.R.
Dominey, Clifford
Dorsey, Bob
Downing, Jeff
Dubroc, Tommy
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Duncan, John
Dunlap, E.T.
Dziewiontkoski, Bob
Eagleston, Ron
Eagleston, Ronald
Eastburn, James
Elder, William
Elhai, Irv
Emrath, Marty
Ensing, Dale
Ervin, Thomas
Erwin, Chip - Czech Aircraft Works
Evans, Monte
Exstrom, Daniel
Faile, David
Farrar, Jeffrey
Farris, Paul
Fetzer, George
Fiedler, Mike
Filucci, Michael - Red Dragon Aviaion
Finch, K
Flaherty, Edward
Floyd, Joseph
Ford, David
Forrest, Gerald
Forsting, Robert
Fortner, Earl
Four Star Products
Frank, Dan
Franz, Carl
Frazier, Vince
Frederick, Mark
French, Edwin
Friedman, Frank
Froehlich, Carl
Fromm, John
Fry, John
Funk, Edwin Jr.
Funnell, Augustus
George, William
Gilbert, Mark
Giusti, Roberto
Glaser, Arthur
Glass, Roy
Glover, Ken
Gold, Andy - Builder's Book Store
Goldberg, Mark
Good, Chris
Gooding, Lawrence
Goolsby, Jim
Gott, Shelby
Goudreault, Jacques
Graham, James Jr.
Grant, Jordan
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, Randy
Groom, Larry
Guillosso, Alain
Hale, Michael
Hales, Sherman
Hall, Bob
Hall, Thomas
Hamer, Steven
Hamilton, Thom
Hamilton, William
Hand, Chris
Hansen, Ronald
Hargis, Merle
Harmon, John
Harper, Malcom
Harrill, Roy
Harris, John
Hart, Daniel
Harvey, Doug
Hassall, J.C.
Hastedt, Margaret
Hatch, Fletcher III
Hatcher, Clive
Hatfield, Cecil
Hays, Wes
Henderson, George
Henderson, Randall
Heritch, Ian
Herndon, Richard
Herren, Bill
Hevern, Jerry
Hiatt, Mark
Hiers, Craig
Hinch, Christopher
Hine, Joe
Hinkley, Curtis
Hinrichsen, James
Hodge, Jack
Hodgson, Bob
Hodson, Frank
Hoffman, Carl
Holcombe, Richard
Horton, Kevin
Hoshowski, Ken
Hrycauk, Dave
Hughes, Robert
Hulen, Fred
Hundley, Richard
Hurd, James
Hurlbut, Steve
Hutcheson, Ken
Ihlenburg, Fred
Ingram, Jim
Irace, Bill
Irwin, Eric
Isler, Jerry
Ivers, James
James, Larry
Janes, Bob
Janicki, Steven
Japundza, Bob
Jeens, Ken
Johannsson, Johann
Johnson, Jackie
Johnson, Stephen
Jones, Bryan
Jones, Rob
Jones, Russ
Jonker, Bill
Jordan, Thomas
Jory, Rick
Kampthorne, Hal
Kayner, Dennis
Keithley, Rick
King, Da Ve
Kirby, Dennis
Kirby, Graham
Kirtland, Charles
Kitz, John
Knezacek, Dan
Knievel, Gerald
Knoll, Bruce
Kosta, Michael
Kowalski, Ed
Krueger, Dan
Krueger, Scott
Kuss, Charlie
Laczko, Frank Sr.
Lamb, Richard
Lane, Kevin
Lassen, Finn
Laurence, Peter
Laverty, Mike
Lawson, John
Leaf, Dave
Lee, John
Lee, Ric
LeGare, Garry
Leggette, Len
Leonard, William
Lerohl, Gaylen
Lervold, Randy
Lewis, Terry
Lewis, Tim
Ligon, Howard
Lind, Laird
Linebaugh, Jeffrey
Loeber, Wayne
Ludeman, Bruce
Lutes, Rick
Mac Donald, Lawrence
MacKay, Alex
Malczynski, Francis
Mandell, Tom
Marino, Anthony
Marion, Chris
Markert, Michael
Marshall, Robert
Martin, Tom
Maxson, Phil
Mazatuad, Mme Hyun Sook
McElhoe, Bruce
McFarlane, Lloyd
McGee, Michael
McHarry, Joe
McHenry, Tedd
McKibben, Gerald
McNamara, Don
Melder, Frank
Melia, Tom
Metzger, Stephen
Meyers, John
Miller, Jim & Dondi - Aircraft Technical Support
Mitchell, Duane
Moen, Craig
Mojzisik, Allan
Molzen, Jason
Mondy, Malia
Moore, Thomas
Moore, Warren
Morelli, Bill
Morelli, William
Morris, Daniel III
Morrison, Mark
Morrow, Dan
Moulin, Roger
Munn, Mike
Murphy, Ray Jr.
Neal, Danny
Nellis, Michael
Nelson, James
Nelson, Jim
Newell, Alan
Nguyen, Thomas
Nice, James
Nicely, Vincent
Norris, Rob
Nowakowski, Donald
Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls, Robert
Olendorf, Scott
Olson, Larry
Olson, Tom
Orear, Jeffrey
Owens, Laird
Palinkas, Gary
Pardue, Larry
Paulson, Craig
Peck, Bill & Kathy
Peer, Michael - Jem Aviation
Peryk, Dennis
Peternel, Stanley
Petersen, Eric
Petersen, Paul
Peterson, Alex
Pflanzer, Randy
Phillips, Mark
Pickrell, Jim
Pike, Richard
Pinneo, George
Pittenger, Dick
Plathey, Claude
Point, Jeff
Polstra, Philip
Porter, Richard
Porter, Robert
Potter, Mark
Pretzsch, Robert
Ragsdale, Bill
Randolph, George
Ransom, Ben
Rathbun, Richard
Reeck, Jay
Reed, Derek
Reed, Frank
Reisdorfer, Mark
Reynolds, Richard
Richardson, Ray - Powersport Aviation Inc.
Riedlinger, Paul
Riley, Stuart
Roach, Brian
Rodgers, Brian
Rosales, Paul
Rowbotham, Charles
Rowles, Les
Rozendaal, Doug
Rutherford, Ted
Sa, Carlos
Sager, Jim
Sailer, Martin
SanClemente, Andrew
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Tom
Sax, Samuel
Schemmel, Grant
Schippers, John
Schmitt, Clayton
Schneeflock, Robert
Schrimmer, Mark
Schwarz, Guillermo
Selby, Jim - JKL Aviation Sales
Seward, Douglas
Shackleford, Howard
Shafer, Jim
Shank, Bill
Sheets, Douglas
Shenk, Doug
Shepherd, Dallas
Shettel, Maurice
Shipley, Walter
Sigmon, Harvey
Silverstein, Chuck
Sipp, Dick
Slaughter, Mike
Small, Thomas
Smith, Clayton
Smith, Edmund
Smith, Philip
Smith, Shelby
Smithey, Lloyd
Snyder, David
Solecki, John
Sparks, Timothy
Stafford, David
Staub, Skip
Steer, Bill
Stobbe, Bruce
Stoffers, Larry
Stone, James
Strandjord, Eric
Swaney, Mark
Tauch, Eric
Tauchen, Bryan
Taylor, Tod
Team Rocket
Thayer, George
Therrien, Michel
Thistelthwaite, Geoffrey
Thoman, Daniel
Thomas, Lee
Thomas, Tim
Thompson, Michael
Todd, John
Tompkins, Jeff
Tower, John
True, George
Tucker, Harold
Tuton, Beauford
Tyrrel, Charles
Upshur, Bill
Uribe, Guillermo
Uribe, Gullermo
Utterback, Thomas
Van Der Sanden, Gert
Vandervort, Ronald
VanGrunsven, Stanley
Varnes, William
Volum, Peter
Von Ruden, Dennis
VonLindern, Paul
Vosberg, Roy
Waligroski, Gregg
Walker, Tommy
Walrath, Howard
Ward, Ed
Warren, John
Washburn, Oliver
Watson, Dennis
Watson, Terrence
Watson, William
Webb, Randol
Weber, Ed
Weber, Edward
Weller, Michael
Wendel, Jim
Wentzell, David
Werner, Russ
Werner, Russell
Westridge, David
Whelan, Thomas
Whiler, Douglas
Whitehead, Arthur
Wiesel, Dan
Wigney, John
Williams, Jimmy
Williams, Keith
Williams, Lawrence
Willig, Louis
Wills, Mike
Wilson, Billy
Wittman, James
Wood, Denton
Wood, John
Wood, Mark
Worstell, Glen
Worthington, Victor
Wotring, Dale
Wymer, Gerald
Young, Charles
Young, Rollin
Youngblood, Barry
Zeidman, Richard
Zigaitis, Kestutis
Zinkham, Ralph
Zwart, Frank
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
>
> A friend used this trick. Put your vacuum cleaner in the fuel tank and
> turn it on.
This is not a smart trick if the tanks have seen fuel. The fumes
sucked from the tank will eventually reach the stoichometric ratio
which will allow the flame front from the vacuum cleaner motor
brushes to travel instantaneously into the tank, demolishing the
tank, vacuum cleaner and your garage. Worse still, you could
damage the aircraft, reducing what your widow could get for it and
unnecessarily delaying the next owner.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
> > A friend used this trick. Put your vacuum cleaner in the fuel tank and
> turn it on.
>
> This is not a smart trick if the tanks have seen fuel. The fumes sucked
> from the tank will eventually reach the stoichometric ratio which will
> allow the flame front from the vacuum cleaner motor brushes to travel
> instantaneously into the tank, demolishing the tank, vacuum cleaner and
> your garage.
Listers,
If you know someone who does air conditioning work, borrow his vacuum pump.
These devices do not expose the air to the sparks from an electric motor.
Commercial A/C repairmen and auto mechanics own these tools. They are capable
of pulling very high vacuum, so be careful not to collapse your fuel tank
when using one.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> > > A friend used this trick. Put your vacuum cleaner in the fuel tank and
> > turn it on.
> >
> > This is not a smart trick if the tanks have seen fuel. The fumes sucked
> > from the tank will eventually reach the stoichometric ratio which will
> > allow the flame front from the vacuum cleaner motor brushes to travel
> > instantaneously into the tank, demolishing the tank, vacuum cleaner and
> > your garage.
>
I used vacuum to seal a leaking rivet on a friends RV. The air powered
vacum attachment that hooks to your air line works really well. We were
concerned about drawing fumes across sparking brushes as well. Because
the vacumm required is so little to avoid tank damage, I used my hand to
regulate the vacuum that was applied to the tank vent. I watched very,
very closely the skins between the tank ribs and maintained just a
slight bowed state.
For those builders who don't know what attachment I am talking about,
you can purchase an air pressure powered vacuum that is really handy for
sucking up aluminium chips. Works as a venturi. They are certainly air
hogs but for small jobs work just great.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Then there's always the day/night option where you power each LED
through different value resistors changing the powering with a toggle etc.
8<}
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A NJ
----------
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: EE needed
> Date: Thursday, December 02, 1999 12:49 AM
>
>
> >
> >I need some help with a very simple circuit design (the shelf life of my
> >'77 CIS engineering degree seems to have expired). I want to light a
stack
> >of 9 LED's based on the position of a small magnet and an array of
> >reed-type switches. My attempt has problems with voltage drop through
the
> >diodes so that they get less and less bright down the stack. I can
e-mail
> >scan you a diagram of what I have. kevin TTD portland
>
> This is probably because you are using one resistor to set the
> current level for all of the LEDs . . . You need to set it up
> with a resistor and reed switch for EACH LED. Led's are about
> 2 volt devices, Depending on the brightness you want, the
> resistor for each lamp can be as low as 330 ohms each. If the
> lights are too bright, then increase the resistor value until
> you have the intensity you want.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot-Static Woes |
Hi all!
I just wanted to pass on some information regarding my upcoming pitot-static
inspection. I have an IFR bird and plan to frequent Class A/B airspace so a
good Transponder and Pitot-Static inspection are very important to me. Oh
and then there are those gosh darn FARs. The first thing the inspector
asked me was if I had used the installation Van's recommends for static
ports. He said that he has a hard time passing aircraft that use the
Pop-Rivet method for a static source and it can often be quite expensive to
pass this inspection. I haven't had my inspection yet(it will be on the
10th) and I don't know if my inspector just had one bad RV inspection or if
he has many under his belt.
Anyway... I wanted to get the word out so that others not so far along in
the process as me might want to consider changes in this area(or not!) while
they are still easily done. Maybe others that have experience in actually
getting inspections performed on the "As Designed" method or even something
else could share their experiences.
I did purchase my pitot-static tube from Aircraft Spruce and he said that
they sell two types. A cheap 1/4 tubing that is rigid (He didn't know the
brand name) and Nyloseal. He recommended Nyloseal with Nyloseal fittings.
He recommended staying away from the tubing with the brass inserts that
Van's advocates.
I did not elect to use the pop rivet approach and installed a heated
pitot-static tube. I guess we will see how I fare in this.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
-----Original Message-----
From: TColeE(at)aol.com <TColeE(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 02, 1999 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking fuel tank rivets
>
>A friend used this trick. Put your vacuum cleaner in the fuel tank and
turn
>it on. As the pressure is unequal put a dab of pro seal on the leaking
rivet
>and it should suck into the leak sealing it up. He was very successful in
>stopping his leaks that way.N 468TC (reserved)
If it worked, I doubt that it had anything to do with the vacuum cleaner.
With a pressure differential of 2 PSI and a leak area of 0.0001 sq inch
(corresponding to a 10 mil -- 0.010 inch -- square hole -- pretty big), the
force on the ProSeal would be 0.0002 pound, This is far, far less than the
surface tension and viscosity effects of the ProSeal.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Contact Info |
>
>I've decided to leave the list.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6Q, FWF stuff, http://fp1.cyberhighway.net/~racker)
Another long time lister bites the dust. Sorry to see you go. Though Ive
actually met very few of you guys every time this happens I feel like Im
losing a friend. Good luck with your project Rob.
Mike Wills
RV4 the canopy is done!
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | New Site: SourceRV.com! |
Hmmm, great idea. Let me give you a bit of advertising advice though. Like
the local drug dealer and Van's himself it is a good idea to give your
potential customers a 'free ride' to get them hooked, then reel them it at
your leasure. Without some kind of look into what it is you're offering,
many won't bother....there is already a LOT of info on the net about RV's.
On the other hand, if they/we/I were to browse into your sight and see that
it is something far beyond what is already out there....well you get the
idea. Ask Van about the benefits of one 'free ride'. Why not open the
sight to everyone until January 1st, then charge for it?
Since that is not offered, those who do join feel free to post here what you
think.
Bill
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeremy Benedict
>Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 2:52 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: New Site: SourceRV.com!
>
>
>--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above!
>
>FYI...SourceRV.com is now officially announced and open for
>pre-registration. Press release attached.
>
>FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
>
>InfoAv Corporation Announces SourceRV.com Service
>
>Beaverton, Oregon, 1 December 1999 - InfoAv Corporation announced today the
>upcoming availability of a new resource for enthusiasts, builders, and
>pilots of RV homebuilt aircraft. Produced in cooperation with Van's
>Aircraft, Inc., this Internet-based service, called SourceRV.com,
>will debut
>mid-December of this year.
>
>SourceRV.com will be the portal for RV information on the World Wide Web.
>With an increasing number of people joining the Internet daily, it is an
>ideal place for easy and timely dissemination of information and builder
>resources. SourceRV.com will centralize information currently spread
>throughout the Internet, plus contain a host of resources not available
>on-line.
>
>Highlights include:
>-an extensive collection of technical articles and builder's tips
>-the archive of Van's RVator company newsletter
>-a searchable database of Van's technical support
>-plans revisions
>-builder contributed information on stumbling points
>-service bulletin history
>-safety and maintenance articles
>-large collection of completed RV photographs
>-instrument panel layouts
>-construction photos
>-news relevant to the RV builder and pilot
>-plus a whole lot more.
>
>Because SourceRV.com is independent from Van's Aircraft, a small
>monthly fee
>is charged to provide the service ($2.00 per month with 12-month
>subscription, or $2.50 per month with a 6-month subscription).
>Customers can
>sign up through the SourceRV.com web site, or through Van's
>Aircraft. Anyone
>signing up in December will receive free access until January 1, 2000.
>Customers can pre-register for SourceRV.com now at www.sourcerv.com.
>
>If you have any questions regarding our service, please feel free
>to contact
>us:
>Web: www.sourcerv.com
>E-mail: info(at)sourcerv.com
>Phone: 503.649.6983
>Postal: InfoAv Corporation P.O. Box 5084 Beaverton, OR 97006-0084
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
If you were one of the 5 people in the November LRI group buy, I just sent
out a confirming e-mail directly to you.
So if you ordered an LRI in this current deal and do not recieve this
confirming e-mail by this evening please contact me off list. Thanks, AL
prober(at)iwaynet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Dennis-
your technical analysis seems right-on to me.
A better method all around might be to apply air pressure to the outside of
the patch to force the proseal inward. Done over a small enough area with a
blow gun and grommet to act as a collar, the chances of tank damage are nil,
as are the risks of explosion. Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
surface, one might achieve a little penetration of the proseal into the leak.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: 1999 List of Contributors #1 and a Special Thank |
You Message!!
Matt, the latest list update is listed as 11/28/99. I've tried reloading etc.
Garry LeGare.
Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I would like to personally thank each and everyone that has contributed
> this year to 1999 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from the list of
> names below, there were many, many generous people from the Lists this
> time around and I want everyone to know just how much your support has
> meant to me. The list of members below includes those that have
> contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that
> have contributed throughout the year and also those that made a donation
> to my Legal Defense Fund earlier in the year that was sponsored my our
> own Bob Nuckolls of Aero Electric.
>
> I want everyone to know just how much it means to me to receive the type
> of financial support for these Lists that I have this year. As the Lists
> have grown so much over the last few years, so have the equipment costs
> as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet connectivity. Your
> generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the year, truly makes
> the continued operation, and more importantly, the continued upgrade and
> improvement of these aviation-related services directly possible. That
> is the bottom line. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of the
> amazing and, at times, overwhelming generosity of so many of you
> wonderful people! Thank you!!
>
> For those of you that didn't quite get your contribution in on time for
> this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I
> will be posting a followup List of Contributors #2 for 1999 in a few
> weeks to make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the
> generous List members. One last time, the addresses to make a contribution
> are:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> or
> Matt Dralle
> c/o Matronics
> PO Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551
>
> Finally, thank you all so much for your support this year both in terms
> of the financial contribution but also in the form of the letters and
> moral support during what can only be categorized as a very stressful and
> unsettling time. And I think you know what I'm referring to... Your
> support and encouragement meant more to me than you'll ever know. I felt
> as if I had 2500 friends all behind me, and that's a *powerful* force!
> Well done one and all! Thank you!
>
> Best regards for the upcoming year.
>
> Your Email List Administrator,
> Matt Dralle
> RV-4 Builder #1763
>
> =================== 1999 List of Contributors #1 ===================
>
> Abell, John
> Acker, Rob
> Adams, Bob
> Adamson, Larry
> Ahamer, Karl
> Albachten, Rudy III
> Alcazar, Jesus
> Allen, Brent
> Allison, Steven
> Ammeter, John
> Amundsen, Blair
> Anderson, Edward
> Armstrong, Robert
> Arnold, James
> Aronson, David
> Ashford, James
> Ashton, Kent
> Atkinson, Harold
> Baggett, Robert
> Baker, Gary
> Baker, Ray
> Baldwin, James
> Barlow, Melvin
> Barnes, Thomas
> Barnes, Tom
> Barnhart, Dave
> Barrenechea, Godo
> Battles, Brenton
> BB Diversified Services, LTD
> Bechtel, Amos
> Bell, Bruce
> Belted Air Power LTD.
> Benhan, Dallas
> Bennett, Peter
> Besing, Paul
> Bieber, Mike
> Bilodeau, Paul
> Bird, Carroll
> Blanton, Stan
> Bleier, Roger
> Blomgren, Jack
> Blum, Ronald
> Boadright, Kyle
> Boardman, Don III
> Boatright, Kyle
> Boatright, Robert
> Bodie, Pete
> Bonesteel, Wayne
> Booze, Gregory
> Borne, Charles
> Bourgeois, Rion
> Bourne, Larry
> Bovan Pe, Vaso
> Bowen, Larry
> Bowen, Miles
> Bower, Bob
> Bowhay, Eustace
> Bowman, Brian R
> Boyd, Rodney
> Branscomb, Warren
> Bray, Garrett
> Brian Lloyd
> Brick, John
> Bridgham, David
> Brogley, Mike
> Brooks, Chris
> Brooks, John
> Brott, Marvin
> Brown, Kent
> Brown, Scott
> Buckwalter, David - Avionics Systems
> Burlingame, Ralph
> Burnham, Dave
> Calhoun, Ronald
> Calvert, Jerry
> Cantrell, Ken
> Capen, Ralph
> Cardinal, Gregory
> Carey, Christopher
> Carr, David
> Carter, Jerry
> Carter, Ron
> Casey, Jeremy
> Chapple, Glen
> Chesnut, Bruce
> Chesnut, William
> Christensen, Peter
> Christie, William
> Churchill, Frank
> Ciolino, John
> Clabots, Gerald
> Clark, Howard
> Clark, James
> Clary, Buck
> Clay, Dennis
> Cloughley, Bill
> Cole, Ed
> Colontonio, Moe
> Colucci, Anthoney
> Conaway, James
> Cook, David Sr.
> Cooley, John
> Copeland, Forrest
> Corder, Michael
> Corriveau, Grant
> Cotter, Timothy
> Cox, Carson
> Croby, Harry
> Crosley, Richard
> Cullen, Chuck
> Czinkota, Garnet
> Dall, Richard
> Daudt, Larry
> Davidson, Jeff
> Davis, Christopher
> Davis, Jared
> Davis, Steve - The Panel Pilot
> Davis, William
> Day, Robert
> Deffner, David
> Del Peso, Jose
> Derrik, Chuck
> Desmond, Richard
> Devine, Steven
> Devlin, John
> Dewees, Ron
> Dial, J.R.
> Dominey, Clifford
> Dorsey, Bob
> Downing, Jeff
> Dubroc, Tommy
> Dudley, Richard
> Duffy, Russell
> Duncan, John
> Dunlap, E.T.
> Dziewiontkoski, Bob
> Eagleston, Ron
> Eagleston, Ronald
> Eastburn, James
> Elder, William
> Elhai, Irv
> Emrath, Marty
> Ensing, Dale
> Ervin, Thomas
> Erwin, Chip - Czech Aircraft Works
> Evans, Monte
> Exstrom, Daniel
> Faile, David
> Farrar, Jeffrey
> Farris, Paul
> Fetzer, George
> Fiedler, Mike
> Filucci, Michael - Red Dragon Aviaion
> Finch, K
> Flaherty, Edward
> Floyd, Joseph
> Ford, David
> Forrest, Gerald
> Forsting, Robert
> Fortner, Earl
> Four Star Products
> Frank, Dan
> Franz, Carl
> Frazier, Vince
> Frederick, Mark
> French, Edwin
> Friedman, Frank
> Froehlich, Carl
> Fromm, John
> Fry, John
> Funk, Edwin Jr.
> Funnell, Augustus
> George, William
> Gilbert, Mark
> Giusti, Roberto
> Glaser, Arthur
> Glass, Roy
> Glover, Ken
> Gold, Andy - Builder's Book Store
> Goldberg, Mark
> Good, Chris
> Gooding, Lawrence
> Goolsby, Jim
> Gott, Shelby
> Goudreault, Jacques
> Graham, James Jr.
> Grant, Jordan
> Griffin, Bill
> Griffin, Randy
> Groom, Larry
> Guillosso, Alain
> Hale, Michael
> Hales, Sherman
> Hall, Bob
> Hall, Thomas
> Hamer, Steven
> Hamilton, Thom
> Hamilton, William
> Hand, Chris
> Hansen, Ronald
> Hargis, Merle
> Harmon, John
> Harper, Malcom
> Harrill, Roy
> Harris, John
> Hart, Daniel
> Harvey, Doug
> Hassall, J.C.
> Hastedt, Margaret
> Hatch, Fletcher III
> Hatcher, Clive
> Hatfield, Cecil
> Hays, Wes
> Henderson, George
> Henderson, Randall
> Heritch, Ian
> Herndon, Richard
> Herren, Bill
> Hevern, Jerry
> Hiatt, Mark
> Hiers, Craig
> Hinch, Christopher
> Hine, Joe
> Hinkley, Curtis
> Hinrichsen, James
> Hodge, Jack
> Hodgson, Bob
> Hodson, Frank
> Hoffman, Carl
> Holcombe, Richard
> Horton, Kevin
> Hoshowski, Ken
> Hrycauk, Dave
> Hughes, Robert
> Hulen, Fred
> Hundley, Richard
> Hurd, James
> Hurlbut, Steve
> Hutcheson, Ken
> Ihlenburg, Fred
> Ingram, Jim
> Irace, Bill
> Irwin, Eric
> Isler, Jerry
> Ivers, James
> James, Larry
> Janes, Bob
> Janicki, Steven
> Japundza, Bob
> Jeens, Ken
> Johannsson, Johann
> Johnson, Jackie
> Johnson, Stephen
> Jones, Bryan
> Jones, Rob
> Jones, Russ
> Jonker, Bill
> Jordan, Thomas
> Jory, Rick
> Kampthorne, Hal
> Kayner, Dennis
> Keithley, Rick
> King, Da Ve
> Kirby, Dennis
> Kirby, Graham
> Kirtland, Charles
> Kitz, John
> Knezacek, Dan
> Knievel, Gerald
> Knoll, Bruce
> Kosta, Michael
> Kowalski, Ed
> Krueger, Dan
> Krueger, Scott
> Kuss, Charlie
> Laczko, Frank Sr.
> Lamb, Richard
> Lane, Kevin
> Lassen, Finn
> Laurence, Peter
> Laverty, Mike
> Lawson, John
> Leaf, Dave
> Lee, John
> Lee, Ric
> LeGare, Garry
> Leggette, Len
> Leonard, William
> Lerohl, Gaylen
> Lervold, Randy
> Lewis, Terry
> Lewis, Tim
> Ligon, Howard
> Lind, Laird
> Linebaugh, Jeffrey
> Loeber, Wayne
> Ludeman, Bruce
> Lutes, Rick
> Mac Donald, Lawrence
> MacKay, Alex
> Malczynski, Francis
> Mandell, Tom
> Marino, Anthony
> Marion, Chris
> Markert, Michael
> Marshall, Robert
> Martin, Tom
> Maxson, Phil
> Mazatuad, Mme Hyun Sook
> McElhoe, Bruce
> McFarlane, Lloyd
> McGee, Michael
> McHarry, Joe
> McHenry, Tedd
> McKibben, Gerald
> McNamara, Don
> Melder, Frank
> Melia, Tom
> Metzger, Stephen
> Meyers, John
> Miller, Jim & Dondi - Aircraft Technical Support
> Mitchell, Duane
> Moen, Craig
> Mojzisik, Allan
> Molzen, Jason
> Mondy, Malia
> Moore, Thomas
> Moore, Warren
> Morelli, Bill
> Morelli, William
> Morris, Daniel III
> Morrison, Mark
> Morrow, Dan
> Moulin, Roger
> Munn, Mike
> Murphy, Ray Jr.
> Neal, Danny
> Nellis, Michael
> Nelson, James
> Nelson, Jim
> Newell, Alan
> Nguyen, Thomas
> Nice, James
> Nicely, Vincent
> Norris, Rob
> Nowakowski, Donald
> Noyer, Robert
> Nuckolls, Robert
> Olendorf, Scott
> Olson, Larry
> Olson, Tom
> Orear, Jeffrey
> Owens, Laird
> Palinkas, Gary
> Pardue, Larry
> Paulson, Craig
> Peck, Bill & Kathy
> Peer, Michael - Jem Aviation
> Peryk, Dennis
> Peternel, Stanley
> Petersen, Eric
> Petersen, Paul
> Peterson, Alex
> Pflanzer, Randy
> Phillips, Mark
> Pickrell, Jim
> Pike, Richard
> Pinneo, George
> Pittenger, Dick
> Plathey, Claude
> Point, Jeff
> Polstra, Philip
> Porter, Richard
> Porter, Robert
> Potter, Mark
> Pretzsch, Robert
> Ragsdale, Bill
> Randolph, George
> Ransom, Ben
> Rathbun, Richard
> Reeck, Jay
> Reed, Derek
> Reed, Frank
> Reisdorfer, Mark
> Reynolds, Richard
> Richardson, Ray - Powersport Aviation Inc.
> Riedlinger, Paul
> Riley, Stuart
> Roach, Brian
> Rodgers, Brian
> Rosales, Paul
> Rowbotham, Charles
> Rowles, Les
> Rozendaal, Doug
> Rutherford, Ted
> Sa, Carlos
> Sager, Jim
> Sailer, Martin
> SanClemente, Andrew
> Sapp, Doug
> Sargent, Tom
> Sax, Samuel
> Schemmel, Grant
> Schippers, John
> Schmitt, Clayton
> Schneeflock, Robert
> Schrimmer, Mark
> Schwarz, Guillermo
> Selby, Jim - JKL Aviation Sales
> Seward, Douglas
> Shackleford, Howard
> Shafer, Jim
> Shank, Bill
> Sheets, Douglas
> Shenk, Doug
> Shepherd, Dallas
> Shettel, Maurice
> Shipley, Walter
> Sigmon, Harvey
> Silverstein, Chuck
> Sipp, Dick
> Slaughter, Mike
> Small, Thomas
> Smith, Clayton
> Smith, Edmund
> Smith, Philip
> Smith, Shelby
> Smithey, Lloyd
> Snyder, David
> Solecki, John
> Sparks, Timothy
> Stafford, David
> Staub, Skip
> Steer, Bill
> Stobbe, Bruce
> Stoffers, Larry
> Stone, James
> Strandjord, Eric
> Swaney, Mark
> Tauch, Eric
> Tauchen, Bryan
> Taylor, Tod
> Team Rocket
> Thayer, George
> Therrien, Michel
> Thistelthwaite, Geoffrey
> Thoman, Daniel
> Thomas, Lee
> Thomas, Tim
> Thompson, Michael
> Todd, John
> Tompkins, Jeff
> Tower, John
> True, George
> Tucker, Harold
> Tuton, Beauford
> Tyrrel, Charles
> Upshur, Bill
> Uribe, Guillermo
> Uribe, Gullermo
> Utterback, Thomas
> Van Der Sanden, Gert
> Vandervort, Ronald
> VanGrunsven, Stanley
> Varnes, William
> Volum, Peter
> Von Ruden, Dennis
> VonLindern, Paul
> Vosberg, Roy
> Waligroski, Gregg
> Walker, Tommy
> Walrath, Howard
> Ward, Ed
> Warren, John
> Washburn, Oliver
> Watson, Dennis
> Watson, Terrence
> Watson, William
> Webb, Randol
> Weber, Ed
> Weber, Edward
> Weller, Michael
> Wendel, Jim
> Wentzell, David
> Werner, Russ
> Werner, Russell
> Westridge, David
> Whelan, Thomas
> Whiler, Douglas
> Whitehead, Arthur
> Wiesel, Dan
> Wigney, John
> Williams, Jimmy
> Williams, Keith
> Williams, Lawrence
> Willig, Louis
> Wills, Mike
> Wilson, Billy
> Wittman, James
> Wood, Denton
> Wood, John
> Wood, Mark
> Worstell, Glen
> Worthington, Victor
> Wotring, Dale
> Wymer, Gerald
> Young, Charles
> Young, Rollin
> Youngblood, Barry
> Zeidman, Richard
> Zigaitis, Kestutis
> Zinkham, Ralph
> Zwart, Frank
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tampa rv'ers |
those of you who live near the tampa bay area and are going to the dec 4
flyin, please respond to my e-mail address abayman(at)aol.com
thanks
scott
fuse out of jig wooo hoooo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
This is a slight diversion from the normal way of thinking about cabin/Carb
heat but I was wondering about rerouting the air that has passed through
the oil cooler that is usually mounted to the rear engine baffle bulkhead.
The air is warm and should be clean. It would be easy to attach a
fiberglass manifold to the back of the oil cooler and duct the air to the
needed locations. You eliminate a problematic exhaust heat muff and other
corrosion prone hardware such as stainless steel pot scrubbers or door
springs. The only down side that I can see is that you would have to wait
for the engine oil to warm up before cabin/carb heat would be produced but
you shouldn't be flying until the oil is warm anyway.
Just a random thought............. Comments?
scot
>
>
>> Tom,
>> Does the steel wool rust and go away with the heat or is it lasting
>> OK?
>
>Don't use steel wool. It will rust and it is to dense to pass much air.
>All of the planes at Van's have stainless steel pot scrubber pads in
>them.
>
>They are very open and pass a lot of air, but still heat transfer area
>than a spring.
>
>They can be bought in most housewares departments.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
>
>Dennis-
>
>your technical analysis seems right-on to me.
>
>A better method all around might be to apply air pressure to the outside of
>the patch to force the proseal inward. Done over a small enough area with a
>blow gun and grommet to act as a collar, the chances of tank damage are nil,
>as are the risks of explosion. Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
>surface, one might achieve a little penetration of the proseal into the leak.
>
>Bill B
A number of years ago there was a post recommending the vacuum method with
a sealant lower in viscosity than proseal. Might want to check the archives
to find out what this stuff was.
Mike Wills
RV4 canopy finished
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>This is a slight diversion from the normal way of thinking about cabin/Carb
>heat but I was wondering about rerouting the air that has passed through
>the oil cooler that is usually mounted to the rear engine baffle bulkhead.
>The air is warm and should be clean. It would be easy to attach a
>fiberglass manifold to the back of the oil cooler and duct the air to the
>needed locations. You eliminate a problematic exhaust heat muff and other
>corrosion prone hardware such as stainless steel pot scrubbers or door
>springs. The only down side that I can see is that you would have to wait
>for the engine oil to warm up before cabin/carb heat would be produced but
>you shouldn't be flying until the oil is warm anyway.
>
>Just a random thought............. Comments?
>
>scot
>
Quite a few EZ people have tried this because of the difficulty of
rigging heat for a rear engine airplane. It is pretty ineffective as
compared to exhaust muff heat. To figure out why consider the
temperature of the oil (maybe 160F) versus the exhaust temperature of
more than one thousand degrees.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Clicking Noise |
Bob,
Seeing as how you are asking about Regs, I guess I will take a crack at
answering your question. Firstly you have to keep in mind that you have an
experimental aircraft and therefore most regs do not apply but are great for
guidelines.
For our minimum equipment guidlines we need to first look at 91.205(c) which
is for VFR night flying. If you are only going to fly VFR day then there are
no requirements for any aircraft to have any lights of any kind. Anyway,
91.205(c)(3) says we need an aviation red or white anticollison light system
that must meet the standards in Part 23.
When we look in Part 23.1401 we initially get confused in bureaucratic
language. But being the good Fed that I am I can read this....I think. To
answer your question directly the anti-collision light must be visible 75
degrees above and 75 degrees the horizontal plane. There is a bunch more
wording about how bright and how many flashes but lets not cloud the waters
on this round.
If you have any more questions feel free to email me directly.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Or you can get a cheap (about $19.00) vacumn pump from Harbor Freight that
uses your compressor to creat the suction.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
I found an unused St. Croix Prop 69 inch by 78" pitch that I was thinking of
purchasing for my RV-4 but haven't heard of St. Croix Props and I'm
reluctant to buy until I know more about them. The guy who has it says they
are made in northern Oregon and there are a few guys running them on RV's in
that area.
Can anyone tell me if these are any good or is there a good reason I never
heard of them?
Thanks,
Pat Perry
RV-4
Fuse out of the jig - engine at the rebuild shop!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Im in Orlando...and I'm going.
Bill
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 1:08 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: tampa rv'ers
>
>
>those of you who live near the tampa bay area and are going to the dec 4
>flyin, please respond to my e-mail address abayman(at)aol.com
>thanks
>scott
>fuse out of jig wooo hoooo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | strobe question(s) |
i am in the process of closing the vert stab on a 6. if i am going to wire
for light i need or should make arrangements for pull cord etc. i was nearly
run over many years ago and want to be as visible as possible both day and
night. i plan to strobe wing tips and want to use the most powerful type of
strobes for belly and wing tips. suggestions???
i have decided that i will also strobe rudder. also. i would prefer not to
have strobe on vert stab but in looking at vans accessory catalog it appears
that i must have strobe on top of vert stab or top of fuselage if i am going
to strobe belly. is this correct?? i plan to be ifr and will all this extra
lighting effect avionics/antennas??? yeah i know about the weight/expense. i
have thought about using school bus strobe for belly. anyone know heard of
this and is it possible?? in the immediate time i need to know if vert stab
is required if i strobe belly. thanx, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
That approach has some merit. I would think the unknowns would include:
1. is the air pressure sufficient to move a good volume of oil cooler-warmed
air into the cabin?
2. would capturing that air adversely affect the flow through the oil
cooler, such that cooling is reduced too much?
Is interesting possibility; has anyone tried it?
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Where are you located? |
--> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above!
Hi!
I'm updating the links page on Van's web site, specifically the links to
builders' sites. I'm adding location to the listings. If you have a site
that's linked, please send me a quick e-mail with the STATE or PROVINCE you
are located in, so your listing doesn't default to "Location unknown."
If you have an RV site that's not listed, let me know!
Thanks,
Jeremy Benedict jeremy(at)infoav.com
InfoAv Corporation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fueling safety |
Regarding aircraft fueling safety - do NOT ground the aircraft or the container
to the ground! Instead, as at least one poster has said, connect the container
or nozzle to the aircraft before
fueling. The idea is to bond the container to the aircraft and equalize the static
electricity charge before fuel flows. The connection should be in place
before and during fueling, as fuel flowing
through the nozzle will create static electricity and the connection will continue
to equalize the charge. Also, an approved metal container should be used,
since it's impossible to bond a plastic
container or other container made of non-conducting materials. Bonding is all
that's required - grounding is not required or recommended.
Also, before self-fueling at an airport, you should check the airport rules and
regulations to see what's required. As a general rule, an airport that receives
Federal funding cannot prohibit
self-fueling, but it is subject to the same rules and safety requirements that
any commercial fuel seller must follow, including safety inspections and fuel
flowage fees.
Semper Fi
John Lawson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
AD's DO apply to any unaltered appliance or component. Altered units are
airworthy only if 337 (STC's still require a 337) approved or part of a
experimental aircraft. Experimental parts could not go back in service on
standard category aircraft without repair station conformance at best.
-----Original Message-----
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: No Logbooks
>
>The answer is maybe...Now that that answer is clear as mud let me expand a
bit. If you are going to utilize these on Experimental aircraft then you
can but I would still have reservations. Let me get into the Standard
category aircraft and maybe you will understand.
>For Standard Category aircraft you will be able to use them once you have
proven that ALL Airworthiness Directives have been complied with. Some of
these A.D.s are very significant and I, personally, would not ANY aircraft
unless I knew their status.
>It has been argued that A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft. It
has also been argued that while A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft
they do aply to the engine/propeller/appliances in them. I do not want to
get into that here but think about who's butt is going to be the aircraft
and decide for yourself.
>My question is this: If they are fresh out of overhaul then who did the
overhaul and why are there no logbooks with A.D. signoffs?
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A QB wiring it up
>"Das Fed"
>
>In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 7:52:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Pete
& Delee Bodie" writes:
>
>>
>> If you have an engine and constant speed propeller straight out of
overhaul
>> and no log books can you just start new log books starting with the
overhaul
>> information.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
In a message dated 12/2/99 9:29:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
<< Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
surface, one might achieve a little penetration of the proseal into the
leak. >>
What we need is a substitute for the pro-seal, made just for this purpose.
We need something that has the sealing properties of pro-seal but with a bit
less viscosity.
Has anyone experimented with pro-seal, and, maybe, cut the proseal viscosity
with
say, tolulene? Just a thought.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
I believe it was Avweb, but perhaps a magazine, just recently published
an article
poo-pooing the need for av-ox any more.
Seems that for many years now the technology for filling tanks
has
been to take the gas from liquid oxygen tanks. No more water vapor in the
gas.
About previously owned tanks--I wouldn't know.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>>Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 07:16:25 +1100
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>From: Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot-Static Woes
>>Hi There,
>>be very carefull about using welding O2 for suplemental
>>oxygen, theres no guarantee of the quality of the gas.
>>The problems that can arise are it can have high levels
>>of moisture thus migrating into your reducing valves and
>>possibly freezing them
>>Bruce Stewart
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
or you may remove the data plate from the engine thus
making it experimental and start your log books that
way with no data plate but some dar,s may not let you
do this anyway check with them first
Glenn Williams
8a wings
A&P mech.
--- Bill Noel wrote:
>
>
> AD's DO apply to any unaltered appliance or
> component. Altered units are
> airworthy only if 337 (STC's still require a 337)
> approved or part of a
> experimental aircraft. Experimental parts could not
> go back in service on
> standard category aircraft without repair station
> conformance at best.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 7:53 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: No Logbooks
>
>
> >
> >The answer is maybe...Now that that answer is clear
> as mud let me expand a
> bit. If you are going to utilize these on
> Experimental aircraft then you
> can but I would still have reservations. Let me get
> into the Standard
> category aircraft and maybe you will understand.
> >For Standard Category aircraft you will be able to
> use them once you have
> proven that ALL Airworthiness Directives have been
> complied with. Some of
> these A.D.s are very significant and I, personally,
> would not ANY aircraft
> unless I knew their status.
> >It has been argued that A.D.s do not apply to
> Experimental aircraft. It
> has also been argued that while A.D.s do not apply
> to Experimental aircraft
> they do aply to the engine/propeller/appliances in
> them. I do not want to
> get into that here but think about who's butt is
> going to be the aircraft
> and decide for yourself.
> >My question is this: If they are fresh out of
> overhaul then who did the
> overhaul and why are there no logbooks with A.D.
> signoffs?
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A QB wiring it up
> >"Das Fed"
> >
> >In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 7:52:19 PM
> Eastern Standard Time, "Pete
> & Delee Bodie" writes:
> >
> Bodie"
> >>
> >> If you have an engine and constant speed
> propeller straight out of
> overhaul
> >> and no log books can you just start new log books
> starting with the
> overhaul
> >> information.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Brown <glide303(at)southwind.net> |
| Subject: | need part of slide back, RV6 |
I need a piece of the RV6 slide back canopy.
The piece I need is the part from the turnover
going aft about 28". Cracks aft of that or on
the windshield are of no concern for what I
need.
Dennis Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
guys whatever you do do not try to reduce proseal. you
need to order the a version of the proseal instead of
the b version which vans currently uses. it is runny
like syrup and will penetrate somewhat you can get the
a version from courtoulds or gulfstream aerospace. the
part number at gulfstream will be CS3204A1-2 THE
REGULAR PART # FROM GULFSTREAM IS CS3204B1-2
Glenn Williams
8a wings
A&P mech.
--- JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/2/99 9:29:20 AM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
> surface, one might achieve a little penetration of
> the proseal into the
> leak. >>
> What we need is a substitute for the pro-seal, made
> just for this purpose.
> We need something that has the sealing properties of
> pro-seal but with a bit
> less viscosity.
> Has anyone experimented with pro-seal, and, maybe,
> cut the proseal viscosity
> with
> say, tolulene? Just a thought.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/2/99 9:29:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
> surface, one might achieve a little penetration of the proseal into the
> leak. >>
> What we need is a substitute for the pro-seal, made just for this purpose.
> We need something that has the sealing properties of pro-seal but with a bit
> less viscosity.
> Has anyone experimented with pro-seal, and, maybe, cut the proseal viscosity
> with
> say, tolulene? Just a thought.
Pro-seal (or MC-236) can be thinned with MEK. I used a thinned mixture
to brush the sealer over rivet heads in my RV-6's fuel tanks. You can
get more info here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks2.html
Be sure you use a very small amount of MEK....a little goes a long way.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>
> This is a slight diversion from the normal way of thinking about cabin/Carb
> heat but I was wondering about rerouting the air that has passed through
> the oil cooler that is usually mounted to the rear engine baffle bulkhead.
> The air is warm and should be clean. It would be easy to attach a
> fiberglass manifold to the back of the oil cooler and duct the air to the
> needed locations. You eliminate a problematic exhaust heat muff and other
> corrosion prone hardware such as stainless steel pot scrubbers or door
> springs. The only down side that I can see is that you would have to wait
> for the engine oil to warm up before cabin/carb heat would be produced but
> you shouldn't be flying until the oil is warm anyway.
It's been a long time since I had one of many thermo courses, but using the oil
cooler cooling air to heat the cabin may come up on the short side.
How many GPM's of oil would go through the cooler? Maybe 1?
What is the drop in temperature of the oil?
What kind of temp rise will the cooling air see?
How many CFM of air will be going through the oil cooler?
Some of you recent grads can put some numbers to it and see how many available
BTU's could be used. I would be interested to see it done.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
Yes, But some people still argue about these on experimental aircraft as
anyone may work on them, not just an A&P therefore once the non-A&P work on
them they are no longer airworthy in the legal sense and therefore A.D.s no
longer apply. Like I said, I do not want to start an argument here. But you
are 100% correct that without going back to an authorized facility/A&P they
can no longer go back onto a STANDARD category aircraft.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
For you guys with leaking tanks, just use your wife's vacuum cleaner or
your shop vac to supply the suction. Smear a little pro seal over the
hole and let it set up with neg pressure in the tank. Thats all you
need to do. You dont need to worry about a more viscous sealant as the
tank operates at atmospheric pressure anyway. The proseal will seal the
hole without any problem.
I developed a leak after 150 hours and that cured it
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fueling safety |
There are now conductive plastic fuel containers.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 2:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: fueling safety
>
> Regarding aircraft fueling safety - do NOT ground the aircraft or the
container to the ground! Instead, as at least one poster has said, connect
the container or nozzle to the aircraft before
> fueling. The idea is to bond the container to the aircraft and equalize
the static electricity charge before fuel flows. The connection should be
in place before and during fueling, as fuel flowing
> through the nozzle will create static electricity and the connection will
continue to equalize the charge. Also, an approved metal container should
be used, since it's impossible to bond a plastic
> container or other container made of non-conducting materials. Bonding is
all that's required - grounding is not required or recommended.
>
> Also, before self-fueling at an airport, you should check the airport
rules and regulations to see what's required. As a general rule, an airport
that receives Federal funding cannot prohibit
> self-fueling, but it is subject to the same rules and safety requirements
that any commercial fuel seller must follow, including safety inspections
and fuel flowage fees.
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
I stand by my guns, fellas. I have personally yet to use oxygen in my
flying, but I completely trust the info given in AvWeb's "Getting High on
Welder's Oxygen" (John Deakin's Pelican's Perch article, available on line,
but I don't have the URL handy just now). This is what Cy is referring to.
The O2 we get now all starts as Lox, distilled from liquid air, and is
completely dry. Contamination in the cylinder (with moisture) is virtually
impossible. Medical oxygen is often humidified at the point of use with an
in-line bubble humidifier (essentially a water pipe like the ones found in
your local opium den.) It is never moist coming from the tap, nor is
_modern_ welder's oxygen. I suppose if you had a welding cylinder left over
from the forties, there might be some concern... about the cylinder as well
as the contents!
Read, get the facts, then decide. Don't go by what you think you know when
there's a way to be sure. Don't mean to start a flame war here... but some
of you don't sound like you are ready to embrace the new 87UL Avgas when it
debuts, either.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Sam
I see you giving lots of advice on this site. How long have you
been flying your airplane and how many hours do you have on it?
Was it at Oshgosh this year?
Tom
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/2/99 9:29:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
> >
> > << Perhaps with 100 psi, and a pre-warmed
> > surface, one might achieve a little penetration of the proseal into the
> > leak. >>
> > What we need is a substitute for the pro-seal, made just for this purpose.
> > We need something that has the sealing properties of pro-seal but with a bit
> > less viscosity.
> > Has anyone experimented with pro-seal, and, maybe, cut the proseal viscosity
> > with
> > say, tolulene? Just a thought.
>
> Pro-seal (or MC-236) can be thinned with MEK. I used a thinned mixture
> to brush the sealer over rivet heads in my RV-6's fuel tanks. You can
> get more info here:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks2.html
>
> Be sure you use a very small amount of MEK....a little goes a long way.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
In a message dated 12/2/99 8:02:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
fesenbek(at)marykay.com writes:
<< have an IFR bird and plan to frequent Class A/B airspace so a
good Transponder and Pitot-Static inspection are very important to me. Oh >>
Class "A" airspace?? What are you putting in that bird... a turbine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
Just to add to the discusion and dispell the myth that LOX is moisture free.
I am involved with the use of Aircraft LOX systems for breathing oxygen and
have seen LOX converter valves fail due to ice contamination. We purge the
LOX converters with dry heated nitrogen every 3 months to avoid problems.
If we go 6 months we will have failures due to ice contamination. The Navy
which uses the same converters in F-14's and others has a 30 day purge cycle
due to ice contamination. Where does it come from? Contamination is
introduced at every servicing point, everytime a connection is made. Air,
containing moisture is introduced into the system. After repeated
servicing, the ice crystals accumulate at points of constriction in the
system. And this is in a very controlled servicing environment. If you
have ever watched medical LOX equipment being serviced it is easy to observe
that the operators frequently don't purge the lines prior to servicing the
converter, therefore introducing large quantities of high moisture air into
the oxygen.
Of course when the LOX is discharged to make gas, where does the moisture
go? I admit, that the moisture is a very small percentage, but it does
exist.
Flame me all you want but them's the facts.
Dan Morris
RV-6 with the best seatbelts there are.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot-Static Woes
>
> I stand by my guns, fellas. I have personally yet to use oxygen in my
> flying, but I completely trust the info given in AvWeb's "Getting High on
> Welder's Oxygen" (John Deakin's Pelican's Perch article, available on
line,
> but I don't have the URL handy just now). This is what Cy is referring
to.
> The O2 we get now all starts as Lox, distilled from liquid air, and is
> completely dry. Contamination in the cylinder (with moisture) is
virtually
> impossible. Medical oxygen is often humidified at the point of use with
an
> in-line bubble humidifier (essentially a water pipe like the ones found in
> your local opium den.) It is never moist coming from the tap, nor is
> _modern_ welder's oxygen. I suppose if you had a welding cylinder left
over
> from the forties, there might be some concern... about the cylinder as
well
> as the contents!
>
> Read, get the facts, then decide. Don't go by what you think you know
when
> there's a way to be sure. Don't mean to start a flame war here... but
some
> of you don't sound like you are ready to embrace the new 87UL Avgas when
it
> debuts, either.
>
> -Bill B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Juli & Charlie" <kearns(at)gte.net> |
I am selling my RV-8, I have a 4 place Aero Commander Lark and a 3 place
family and I just can't justify having a 2nd airplane right now. The tail
and wings are complete with Tech Counselor sign offs. I have the electric
trim options for the aileron and elevator trim. I have riveted the firewall
together but that is all that I have done to the fuse kit. All of the
inside surfaces are primed with Dupont Variprime. The steel parts of the
fuse kit are powder coated from Van's. I do not have the finish kit. I am
located in the Dallas, Texas area. Please contact me off list if you are
interested.
Charlie Kearns
kearns(at)gte.net
972-679-1002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/2/99 6:24:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
<< using the oil
cooler cooling air to heat the cabin may come up on the short side. >>
O.K. guys, now here is a brainstorm for you. We all agree that the exaust is
the hottest thing going, right? Well, does anybody have an idea for some
type of hybrid
"water cooled exaust/ducted fan heat exchanger". A liquid transfers heat
much better than any other medium, so it makes sense. Now, wether or not it
is physically
possible without alot of weight, expense, and complexity I do not know. Any
ideas?
If it would work somehow, it would certainly have the ability to keep things
as toasty as an aircraft using an auto-conversion with a conventional
auto-style heater.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
maybe using exhaust air from the oil cooler as the input to the heat muff, to
give it a "running start" on temp rise, is what he had in mind...? Might
work.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> >This is a slight diversion from the normal way of thinking about
> cabin/Carb
> >heat but I was wondering about rerouting the air that has passed
> through
> >the oil cooler that is usually mounted to the rear engine baffle
> bulkhead.
>
> Quite a few EZ people have tried this because of the difficulty of
> rigging heat for a rear engine airplane. It is pretty ineffective
> as
> compared to exhaust muff heat. To figure out why consider the
> temperature of the oil (maybe 160F) versus the exhaust temperature
> of
> more than one thousand degrees.
>
This is one of the major reasons that this doesn't work, and the other is
that when it is real cold and you need heat the most. You need oil
cooling the least. Many RV owners end up at least partially blocking off
their oil cooler during cold weather.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Maybe others that have experience in
> actually
> getting inspections performed on the "As Designed" method or even
> something
> else could share their experiences.
I have had pitot/static cert inspections done on 3 RV's using the
standard
installation from the kit. All 3 were successfully tested to 20,000 ft
with no problems at all.
-
>
> I did purchase my pitot-static tube from Aircraft Spruce and he said
> that
> they sell two types. A cheap 1/4 tubing that is rigid (He didn't
> know the
> brand name) and Nyloseal. He recommended Nyloseal with Nyloseal
> fittings.
> He recommended staying away from the tubing with the brass inserts
> that
> Van's advocates.
-
I don't think the Van's kit has any brass inserts (maybe it used to but I
don't remember them).
The most important thing is what type of fittings you are using, and that
the fittings are compatible with the tubing being used.
The fittings supplied in the Van's kit have O ring seals that compress
around the tubing for a positive seal.
-
>
> I did not elect to use the pop rivet approach and installed a heated
> pitot-static tube. I guess we will see how I fare in this.
-
This is one option that is often used. Just be aware that there are many
different part #'s of these type of pitot tubes. If you have the wrong
one you will test fine but you will still have airspeed an altitude
errors in flight. The errors usually only occur at high A.O.A. (low
airspeeds).
I have spoken with many RV owners that are very proud of the construction
job they did on their RV because it stalls at only 45 mph indicated. It
is hard to explain to some people that it is not likely, unless their
RV-6A weighs much less than what is actually possible.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Contribution Auction |
Dear Listers,
Steven DiNieri has generously offered to donate a CoolStart RS 700-II to
support the Lists this year. As he has discribed below, this unit
retails for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web
server and you can have a look at it here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
"lm4(at)juno.com" has already opened the bidding at $50 for this handy
device. If you would like bid on this unit, please email your bid to
the following email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
I will give it about a week for the bids to all come in and I will
inform the winning bidder on or about 12/9.
Thanks to Steven DiNieri for offering this unit!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
==========================================================================
I'll start the bidding at $50.00.
lm4(at)juno.com
>
> I know it's getting late in the official fund raiser and I was
>thinking of a creative way to contribute.
>...christmas gift for the misses. It normally retails for 299.00. I will
>include (to the winning bidder) wiring color codes for easy install
>in yourspecific vehicle and help on the phone if need be.
>Steve DiNieri
>Capsteve(at)wzrd.com
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: a dumb thought, any dumb answers |
>Not to imply that the tail spring doesn't contribute to drag, but at the
>sharp angle that it is presented to the relative wind it is not very
>much. You would do much better in the drag reduction dept. if you find a
way
>to clean up the drag caused by the steering chains and springs for the
>tail wheel steering.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
EASY!!!! Just put the wheel on the front. No more chains!
Cecil
RV6A
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: Contribution Auction" (Dec 2, 8:42pm)
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Bids for Equipment Donated by Archie... |
Dear Listers,
Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) has generously donated a number of
interesting items to the Support the List cause this year. Each of
them are described below. If you have additional questions, please
email Archie directly at:
archie97(at)earthlink.net
If there is an item that you wish to bid on, please send your BID along
with the DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM you are bidding on to the following
email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
I will give it about a week for the bids to all come in and then I will
inform the winning bidder(s) on or about 12/9.
Here is the description of the items as provided by Archie:
=====================================================================
- Upon receipt of donation amount, items will be shipped.
- No reasonable offer refused!
- Unreasonable ones considered!
NEW:
* Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped.
* Aero Instruments #5814-2
* Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v.
* Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7
USED:
* Narco Transponder AT5-A
* Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA
* Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500
* King KS-505 power supply modulator
* RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000
=====================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
>
>I stand by my guns, fellas. I have personally yet to use oxygen in my
>flying, but I completely trust the info given in AvWeb's "Getting High on
>Welder's Oxygen" (John Deakin's Pelican's Perch article, available on line,
>but I don't have the URL handy just now). This is what Cy is referring to.
>The O2 we get now all starts as Lox, distilled from liquid air, and is
>completely dry. Contamination in the cylinder (with moisture) is virtually
>impossible. Medical oxygen is often humidified at the point of use with an
>in-line bubble humidifier (essentially a water pipe like the ones found in
>your local opium den.) It is never moist coming from the tap, nor is
>_modern_ welder's oxygen. I suppose if you had a welding cylinder left over
>from the forties, there might be some concern... about the cylinder as well
>as the contents!
>
>Read, get the facts, then decide. Don't go by what you think you know when
>there's a way to be sure. Don't mean to start a flame war here... but some
>of you don't sound like you are ready to embrace the new 87UL Avgas when it
>debuts, either.
>
>-Bill B
Okay Bill is that your final answer???? da, da, da, daaaaaa.....And your
right! Now for $64000 if you choose to continue......the next question is:
Q. Will proseal suck into a leaking rivet on a fuel tank if:
A. You use a standard vacuum cleaner to induce a vacuum in the tank and
you don't blow up your shop because your name is Chet and your RV is named
Ms. Chaquita.
B.You thin the proseal first with some cancer causing foul smelling liquid
that if mixed with some other foul smelling liquid on a rag will burn down
your shop.
C.You use type "A" proseal which is called that because it never stops
working instead of type "B" proseal which I assume has a life outside of work.
OR
D. You custom smash some pop rivet and *will* it to work because you
crammed so much time into that one rivet it just gives up and holds the gas
in.
Well Bill whats it going to be? Take the $32,000 and go buy a finished RV?
Or go for the $64,000????
Guy's I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist this set up! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
Cy:
Unless I am missing something, are you saying the an Auto
flaring tool, will do the job for aircraft/
The auto tool, will flair, the aluminum tube and copper as well...
is the angle, the critical point for our purpose, especially for fuel
and oil lines, quite important areas, when on the blue sky no?
Bert
Do NO archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AileronSpar warping |
After I drilled my lightning hole on the aileron and flap spars, they have a
slight curve to them. Any ideas how to straighten? Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where are you located? |
Hi Jeremy,
I hope you all were satisfied w/ the squeezers I fixed for you. I am in the
process of building a site, but do not yet have it on-line. My email address
is: rvator(at)earthlink.net. I have also attached, in Excel 5.0 format, my
current (partial) inventory. I don't know if this qualifies for your list or
not. If not, I'll contact you again when my site is up & running. By the way,
nice job, I'm realizing how much work you went through.
Blue Skies!
Jeremy Benedict wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message REALLY posted by: , not the above!
>
> Hi!
>
> I'm updating the links page on Van's web site, specifically the links to
> builders' sites. I'm adding location to the listings. If you have a site
> that's linked, please send me a quick e-mail with the STATE or PROVINCE you
> are located in, so your listing doesn't default to "Location unknown."
>
> If you have an RV site that's not listed, let me know!
>
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Benedict jeremy(at)infoav.com
> InfoAv Corporation
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AileronSpar warping |
use fluting pliers and straighten them
--- DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> After I drilled my lightning hole on the aileron
> and flap spars, they have a
> slight curve to them. Any ideas how to straighten?
> Thanks, Dave
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: AileronSpar warping |
Don't do anything to them. It takes only the slightest of pressure to
make them straight. To be certain that they are in the correct position
when drilling the skins to the spar, mark a centerline on the flanges
and sight it through the pre- punched skin holes. Check the archives for
a procedure to get this right.
Doug Gray
> After I drilled my lightning hole on the aileron and flap spars, they have a
> slight curve to them. Any ideas how to straighten? Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Gas Cap Engraving |
Where was the site for the pictures of the gas caps Steve is engraving? I
have a few guys locally that are interested, but would like see them.
We have are weekly RV breakfast tomorrow and I am pushin buttons trying to
find those pics!
Thanks!
Have a good day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 - done!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone with a FLYING RV that uses the engines that
Van recommends (Lycoming) ever had any carb ice?
After 470 hours, I have never seen any carb ice. I
also have CAT prop in the engine.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot-Static Woes |
<>
I've got a TIO-540 with a refurbished pulse jet from a old WWII surplus V-1
rocket on the centerline hard point...
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air door |
I am building two special RV 6 aircraft with Lyc IO-360 B1B engines.(180 HP
with 200 HP horizontal sumps with the tuned induction tubes.) I designed my
own intake elbow and welded it to my box which contains the Bracket air
filter assy. On the floor of this box I made a small alternate air door which
is manually controlled with a push pull cable. The alternate air may have to
be used in the event your air filter gets clogged for reasons other than ice,
i.e., bugs excessive water, dust, etc. I had an Engineer from Lycoming look
at it and he thought it was better than the Mooney 201 or CE-177
installations of similar design.
Since we are still wiring the avionics, I have yet to fly either one yet. I
can only assume this will work.
Greg Schmidt
PHX Deer Valley
RV-6S (Wiring and Canopies)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AileronSpar warping |
NOOOOO!!!
Do NOT flute the aileron/flap spar, or any spar. Spars are the primary structural
component of the assembly, and consider the flanges of these spars to be sacred.
Do not drill, cut, bend, flute, etc. any part of the flange without first
determining what it is going to do to the structural integrity of the part.
Spar webs are a different matter, we are able to cut lightening holes and remove
50% of the material and not sacrifice any of the useful strength of the part.
There is still a limit to what we can do with the web, so if you happen to
cut 2 1/4" lightening holes instead of 2" holes you will be ordering another aileron
spar (just like me!)
To solve the original problem just bring the spar back into alignment with the
straight edge of the skin during drilling, and be sure to keep watching for unwanted
twist.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings, waiting for new spar to arrive)
>>> glenn williams 12/03 2:02 AM >>>
use fluting pliers and straighten them
--- DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> After I drilled my lightning hole on the aileron
> and flap spars, they have a
> slight curve to them. Any ideas how to straighten?
> Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Site: SourceRV.com! |
Sounds to me like this crew is trying to con-in on a look-alike RV List for a
profit...Jim Brown, NJ, RV- 3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Problem!! with Cap Engraving Please read if you have sent Caps. |
Group
I am ready to Engrave the Caps starting today but have had some real
confusion as to the way they are to be engraved. Paul's web site has a
picture of the way he did his caps, and that's the way I was going to do
them. We have a few, and the list is growing that the caps I did for paul
were upside down and need to read the other way. I do DO NOT WANT TO START
ENGRAVING until I am clear on what each one of you wants and feel I have to
stop where I am at this point and iron this out.
At this point I can post two drawings on my web site for those of you who are
confused and do not understand what I'm talking about but this is going to
delay all from getting there caps back in a timly maner. But I do not want
to start these until this is cleared up and a decision is made on what is
correct and what is not. I think once this is decided that thats the way they
all should be done. Please understand that I do want to get these done but I
also want all of you to be happy with the out come.
So the question is What's the right way or wrong way for these things to
read???? I will post the picture on my site sometime tonight. I would like
to start these Monday if we can work this out. Again people please understand
I just want to be sure you are happy with what you get.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
http://members.aol.com/panelcut
panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Thomas McIntyre wrote:
>
>
> Sam
> I see you giving lots of advice on this site. How long have you
> been flying your airplane and how many hours do you have on it?
> Was it at Oshgosh this year?
> Tom
Tom, N399SB now has the whopping total of sixty hours on the electronic
tach. First flight was September 1st of this year. The RV was my fourth
aircraft project.
No, while you guys were enjoying Oshkosh I was stumbling around in the
paint booth amidst a fog of paint spray. I have noticed that since
painting my plane my mental capacities have been somewhat modiffffffied.
Be sure you use a good mmmmmmmask........
By the way, here is the disclaimer from my website concerning any advise
I may regurgitate there. I suppose the same should apply to posts to the
RV-list:
"Disclaimer! This site describes the construction of N399SB only! It is
in no way a
depiction of construction practices and sequences that are officially
approved by Van's
Aircraft or anybody else that knows what they are doing. If you follow
the construction
steps shown in this site specifically for the construction of your
aircraft, you are a
gullible individual indeed! Every custom built aircraft should be
frequently inspected by
folks who are competent in the construction of fast little airplanes,
and the construction
logs (or tips given on the RV-list....) herein depicted are for your
entertainment only."
Once again, a sincere thanks to all of you who have visited "The RV
Journal" countless times during the past two years. I hope to see you at
Sun-N-Fun and Oshkosh!
Sam Buchanan (still coughing up PPG Concept balls....)
EAA Tech Counselor
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone with a FLYING RV that uses the engines that
> Van recommends (Lycoming) ever had any carb ice?
>
> After 470 hours, I have never seen any carb ice. I
> also have CAT prop in the engine.
Gary, this is an area I have wondered about as well. I too have a temp
probe on the carb, and the temp always rises as the engine warms.
Earlier this week, the ambient temp was 0 degrees Celsius before the
plane was started, and by takeoff, the carb temp had risen to 16 degrees
C. I have never seen the carb temp go down and it almost always runs at
an indicated 19 degrees C which is as high as the RMI uMonitor will
display.
My guess is that the carb stays warm because it is bolted directly to
the oil sump.
Sam Buchanan (hoping a bird doesn't fly up the carb intake because the
Van's carb heat rig is not a true alternate air system...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap Engraving |
Denny,
A picture of the cap is available on Paul Besing's web site:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/wings.htm
If you have not had a chance to check out this site yet, take
your time and start at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/index.htm
and go through the entire site. This is probably one of the nicest
RV sites on the web.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, Az
RV6 - Fuselage
>
>Where was the site for the pictures of the gas caps Steve is engraving? I
>have a few guys locally that are interested, but would like see them.
>
>We have are weekly RV breakfast tomorrow and I am pushin buttons trying to
>find those pics!
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Have a good day!
>Denny Harjehausen
>RV-6 - done!
>Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: fueling safety -Reply |
As an aside to this fueling safety thread, the "static electricity"
effect is much, much more pronounced on very low humidity days.
Read that as cold, dry, winter days. Please use caution.
Rodney
Dallas
-6A emp, still....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 6:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Carb Ice
>
>Has anyone with a FLYING RV that uses the engines that
>Van recommends (Lycoming) ever had any carb ice?
>
>After 470 hours, I have never seen any carb ice. I
>also have CAT prop in the engine.
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>So. CA, USA
Unless you have an optical sensor carb ice detector I doubt that you would
have know if you had minor carb icing. This view is shared by most pilots
who have a carb ice detector installed. On a cross country over
Thanksgiving, my ARP ice detector in the C172 detected ice while idling for
departure (OAT 32F, RH 80%), full-power climb out, and cruise at 4500', OAT
20F, clear of the clouds. The light was just beginning to flicker and
pulling carb heat for 5 seconds extinguished it for about 5 minutes, after
which another shot of carb heat was required. Common wisdom says carb ice
shouldn't form under these conditions. I know otherwise.
It is well know that the induction system of the carb is critical to carb
ice formation. Cessnas get lots of ice, Pipers never -- in fact, constant
carb heat is not required on approach in a Cherokee. Same engines,
different planes, vastly different carb icing.
I have installed an Iceman optical carb ice detector on my O360A1A and when
I get it flying (don't pin me down!), I can offer a definitive answer as to
whether carb ice forms in RVs.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Logically, ADs should apply but there are many conflicting OPINIONS for
various FSDOs and inspectors. There aren't any STCs for experimental nor
337 forms. There has never been an AD issued for an experimental aircraft.
There have been some advisories.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Noel <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Date: Thursday, December 02, 1999 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: No Logbooks
>
>AD's DO apply to any unaltered appliance or component. Altered units are
>airworthy only if 337 (STC's still require a 337) approved or part of a
>experimental aircraft. Experimental parts could not go back in service on
>standard category aircraft without repair station conformance at best.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 7:53 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: No Logbooks
>
>
>>
>>The answer is maybe...Now that that answer is clear as mud let me expand a
>bit. If you are going to utilize these on Experimental aircraft then you
>can but I would still have reservations. Let me get into the Standard
>category aircraft and maybe you will understand.
>>For Standard Category aircraft you will be able to use them once you have
>proven that ALL Airworthiness Directives have been complied with. Some of
>these A.D.s are very significant and I, personally, would not ANY aircraft
>unless I knew their status.
>>It has been argued that A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft. It
>has also been argued that while A.D.s do not apply to Experimental aircraft
>they do aply to the engine/propeller/appliances in them. I do not want to
>get into that here but think about who's butt is going to be the aircraft
>and decide for yourself.
>>My question is this: If they are fresh out of overhaul then who did the
>overhaul and why are there no logbooks with A.D. signoffs?
>>
>>Mike Robertson
>>RV-8A QB wiring it up
>>"Das Fed"
>>
>>In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 7:52:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
"Pete
>& Delee Bodie" writes:
>>
>>>
>>> If you have an engine and constant speed propeller straight out of
>overhaul
>>> and no log books can you just start new log books starting with the
>overhaul
>>> information.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Contribution Auction |
My bid was for a $100.00 on the unit Matt.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; ;
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Contribution Auction
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Steven DiNieri has generously offered to donate a CoolStart RS 700-II to
> support the Lists this year. As he has discribed below, this unit
> retails for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web
> server and you can have a look at it here:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
>
> "lm4(at)juno.com" has already opened the bidding at $50 for this handy
> device. If you would like bid on this unit, please email your bid to
> the following email address:
>
> bids(at)matronics.com
>
> I will give it about a week for the bids to all come in and I will
> inform the winning bidder on or about 12/9.
>
> Thanks to Steven DiNieri for offering this unit!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Administrator
>
>
==========================================================================
>
>
> I'll start the bidding at $50.00.
> lm4(at)juno.com
>
> >
> > I know it's getting late in the official fund raiser and I was
> >thinking of a creative way to contribute.
> >...christmas gift for the misses. It normally retails for 299.00. I will
> >include (to the winning bidder) wiring color codes for easy install
> >in yourspecific vehicle and help on the phone if need be.
> >Steve DiNieri
> >Capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Remember that the 90 degree tempature rise is taken in the carb heat box...
NOT AFTER THE VENTURI as with a CAT gauge.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem!! with Cap Engraving Please read if you have sent |
Caps.
Hi Steve,
Your question is not a life-or-death issue, but Gary Baker's right. Most people
would insert the cap with the latch to the rear; therefore, from the leading edge
of the wing, where refueling would normally take place, the lettering on Paul
Besing's fuel caps would be inverted. I'd prefer that you engrave mine as Gary
Baker suggested, although it's not really vital one way or the other.
You might refer to either Sporty's or Aircraft Spruce's catalogue to see
illustrations of fuel placards of the type that surround the fuel cap. You will
note that the lettering goes most of the way around the placard but is split into
two sets of characters. Both sets face the same direction so that they are both
readable right-side-up from the leading edge of the wing as ours should be.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Finishing)
PANELCUT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Group
>
> I am ready to Engrave the Caps starting today but have had some real
> confusion as to the way they are to be engraved. Paul's web site has a
> picture of the way he did his caps, and that's the way I was going to do
> them. We have a few, and the list is growing that the caps I did for paul
> were upside down and need to read the other way. I do DO NOT WANT TO START
> ENGRAVING until I am clear on what each one of you wants and feel I have to
> stop where I am at this point and iron this out.
> At this point I can post two drawings on my web site for those of you who are
> confused and do not understand what I'm talking about but this is going to
> delay all from getting there caps back in a timly maner. But I do not want
> to start these until this is cleared up and a decision is made on what is
> correct and what is not. I think once this is decided that thats the way they
> all should be done. Please understand that I do want to get these done but I
> also want all of you to be happy with the out come.
> So the question is What's the right way or wrong way for these things to
> read???? I will post the picture on my site sometime tonight. I would like
> to start these Monday if we can work this out. Again people please understand
> I just want to be sure you are happy with what you get.
>
> Steve Davis
> The Panel Pilot
> http://members.aol.com/panelcut
> panelcut(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Leaking fuel tank rivets |
Sam,
You certainly have my thanks for all the work you put into that web site.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A Nose wheel fairing, and getting ready to think about cutting holes in
the panel and FWF stuff
-----Original Message-----
Once again, a sincere thanks to all of you who have visited
"The RV
Journal" countless times during the past two years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
The navy converter in an F-14 does NOT produce LOX. It is a molecular
filtration system that runs as ambient temperatures. It therefore does NOT
freeze the water.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morris <morristec(at)icdc.com>
Date: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot-Static Woes
>
>Just to add to the discusion and dispell the myth that LOX is moisture
free.
>I am involved with the use of Aircraft LOX systems for breathing oxygen
and
>have seen LOX converter valves fail due to ice contamination. We purge the
>LOX converters with dry heated nitrogen every 3 months to avoid problems.
>If we go 6 months we will have failures due to ice contamination. The Navy
>which uses the same converters in F-14's and others has a 30 day purge
cycle
>due to ice contamination. Where does it come from? Contamination is
>introduced at every servicing point, everytime a connection is made. Air,
>containing moisture is introduced into the system. After repeated
>servicing, the ice crystals accumulate at points of constriction in the
>system. And this is in a very controlled servicing environment. If you
>have ever watched medical LOX equipment being serviced it is easy to
observe
>that the operators frequently don't purge the lines prior to servicing the
>converter, therefore introducing large quantities of high moisture air into
>the oxygen.
>
>Of course when the LOX is discharged to make gas, where does the moisture
>go? I admit, that the moisture is a very small percentage, but it does
>exist.
>
>Flame me all you want but them's the facts.
>
>Dan Morris
>RV-6 with the best seatbelts there are.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:04 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot-Static Woes
>
>
>>
>> I stand by my guns, fellas. I have personally yet to use oxygen in my
>> flying, but I completely trust the info given in AvWeb's "Getting High on
>> Welder's Oxygen" (John Deakin's Pelican's Perch article, available on
>line,
>> but I don't have the URL handy just now). This is what Cy is referring
>to.
>> The O2 we get now all starts as Lox, distilled from liquid air, and is
>> completely dry. Contamination in the cylinder (with moisture) is
>virtually
>> impossible. Medical oxygen is often humidified at the point of use with
>an
>> in-line bubble humidifier (essentially a water pipe like the ones found
in
>> your local opium den.) It is never moist coming from the tap, nor is
>> _modern_ welder's oxygen. I suppose if you had a welding cylinder left
>over
>> from the forties, there might be some concern... about the cylinder as
>well
>> as the contents!
>>
>> Read, get the facts, then decide. Don't go by what you think you know
>when
>> there's a way to be sure. Don't mean to start a flame war here... but
>some
>> of you don't sound like you are ready to embrace the new 87UL Avgas when
>it
>> debuts, either.
>>
>> -Bill B
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool Wanted |
To the CONTRARY. I am totally opposed to even a modified auto flaring tool.
Changing the angle is NOT the problem. The clamping system which damages
the aluminum tubing is the problem. Go rent, borrow the correct tool. Your
life is on the line.
See if your EAA chapter doesn't have a tool library. If you aren't a
member, Join!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bert F. Murillo <bertrv(at)intellistar.net>
Date: Thursday, December 02, 1999 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaring Tool Wanted
>
>Cy:
> Unless I am missing something, are you saying the an Auto
>flaring tool, will do the job for aircraft/
>The auto tool, will flair, the aluminum tube and copper as well...
>is the angle, the critical point for our purpose, especially for fuel
>and oil lines, quite important areas, when on the blue sky no?
>
>Bert
>
>Do NO archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | AreoConnection Seminar |
Just a reminder that Bob Nuckolls is holding one of his weekend seminars in
Eugene, Oregon on January 15 & 16. The cost is $150. Contact me off list
if you are interested.
Ross Mickey
N9PT....6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
In over 350 hrs of flying my RV-6A, I've noticed the carb temp drop to
below freezing about three times. These were cold winter days, at altitude
(7500') going up to Maine for a day of skiing. Application of carb heat
brought the temp above freezing.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying (Time to start checking the ski reports, Tom
are you listening?)
>Gary, this is an area I have wondered about as well. I too have a temp
>probe on the carb, and the temp always rises as the engine warms.
>Earlier this week, the ambient temp was 0 degrees Celsius before the
>plane was started, and by takeoff, the carb temp had risen to 16 degrees
>C. I have never seen the carb temp go down and it almost always runs at
>an indicated 19 degrees C which is as high as the RMI uMonitor will
>display.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
I had a little situation this week that I thought those of you building 8A's
might like to know about.
I was mounting the beautiful Vetterman exhaust to my IO-360 A1A engine when
lo and behold it would not fit. I tried many ways to install it but short of
a torch and hammer it just would not give in and fit. I called Van's for
their usual good advise but was met with a big surprise. In spite of 20
years as an A&P and now "Das Fed" I was told that I had the correct exhaust
if my box had IO-360 written on the outside and that it would fit. Needless
to say I was a bit confused after getting off the phone. After verifying
that the outside of the box did indeed say IO-360 I found Larry Vetterman's
letter with his phone number in the box and decided to call him, seeing as
how he made it.
Here my confusion turned to relief. First let me say that Larry is great to
talk to and a wealth of information on exhaust systems. When I told him my
probelm he popped right up and told me that I had the wrong exhaust for the
RV-8A. He also went on to say that he has been trying to explain that to
Van's for a while but has been having a bit of a time with that. I guess
that is because there are not many of us "nose draggers" out there yet.
Anyway, he quickly told me to box up my exhaust, mail it to him directly, and
he would personally send me the correct exhaust. All this for no extra cost
except for the cost of postage. He even told me to not worry about the
return postage yet as he would just mail it to me and then bill me for it
later. Now that is what I call service.
I can't say enough about how nice, helpful, and informative Larry was.
Things like this are what make this aviation community great. And, believe
me, I see almost all aspects of aviation. With people like Larry out there,
and the rest of you knowledgeable builders, this part of aviation will never
die!!
Mike Robertson
RV8A QB Engine and instruments in
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
You could go this way or you could just get one of those new F1 Rocket
kits. Mine arrives in June and I can't wait to blow the doors off the
first RV-8 I see.;~)
Yeeeee HAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaa............
scot
>
><>
>
>I've got a TIO-540 with a refurbished pulse jet from a old WWII surplus V-1
>rocket on the centerline hard point...
>
>Gary Fesenbek
>RV6A
>Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "true(at)uswest.net |
by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Dec 1999 17":51:37.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | [Fwd: Flaring Tool] |
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 10:57:26 -0700
From: true(at)uswest.net
Subject: Flaring Tool
I have been following the thread about the suitability and safety of
using an automotive flaring tool to flare the fuel lines. Some listers
say to grind an automotive tool to 37 degrees for this purpose. Other
listers say don't do it, as the automotive tool can create stress risers
in the soft aluminum tubing, potentially leading to a fuel line failure
later on.
Myself, I would probably choose to err on the side of caution, and beg,
borrow, steal, or as a last resort, buy the recommended tool for the
job. But, I have a dumb question. Why not use steel fuel line just
like an automobile, instead of the "soft" aluminum? Sure, the steel
fuel line would weigh more, but how much more weight can we be talking
about? We're dealing with two fuel lines from the tanks to the selector
valve, each of a length not more than 18-24". Then, a single fuel line
from the selector valve to the engine, with a length of say, 4 or 5
feet? How much weight can that add?
Granted, you can't say "what's an extra few ounces or a pound" all the
way through your airplane, or it will turn out heavy. But in the area
of fuel lines and fittings, and oil lines and fittings, I could justify
a little extra weight in order to enhance safety and reliability.
So are there good reasons NOT to use steel fuel lines that I, in my
inexperience, am simply not aware of?
George True, Phoenix AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Steve: I believe that the caps should be engraved to read "right side up"
when the latch lever is pointing away from the reader. This seems most
logical since the person fueling the airplane will be standing at the leading
edge of the wing and the latch lever should point aft when the caps are in
place.
Anyway, that's my vote. Good luck in getting agreement soon!
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
Yes, and I agree. I would like mine this way as well.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com [mailto:HCRV6(at)aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 1:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
Steve: I believe that the caps should be engraved to read "right side up"
when the latch lever is pointing away from the reader. This seems most
logical since the person fueling the airplane will be standing at the
leading
edge of the wing and the latch lever should point aft when the caps are in
place.
Anyway, that's my vote. Good luck in getting agreement soon!
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 12:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
>
>Steve: I believe that the caps should be engraved to read "right side up"
>when the latch lever is pointing away from the reader. This seems most
>logical since the person fueling the airplane will be standing at the
leading
>edge of the wing and the latch lever should point aft when the caps are in
>place.
>
>Anyway, that's my vote. Good luck in getting agreement soon!
>
>Harry Crosby
>
Why should the lever point aft? Most that I have seen point forward.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Positioning |
> The thinking on having the caps positioned so that the latch lever
> points
> aft when the caps are in
> place goes back to older aircraft with similar style fuel caps. There
> is a
> (slightly) greater chance of the cap coming off if the latch is
> pointed
> forward, is loose, and the airflow pulls open the latch. When I was
> just
> beginning as a lineboy at a local airport, I was constantly
> admonished to
> make sure that the cap latches always faced aft.
>
> Gary Baker
As another working on the wings, I can't imagine an RV gas cap getting
blown open by the slipstream. Most I see refueling have to use a tool
of some sort to open the darn things at all!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nellis, Mike" <mike.nellis(at)mcd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
Is there a chance that the tab could "flip up" from the wind or bug
or something?
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> on 12/03/99 01:06
PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
To: PANELCUT(at)aol.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 12:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap Engraving
>
>Steve: I believe that the caps should be engraved to read "right
side up"
>when the latch lever is pointing away from the reader. This seems
most
>logical since the person fueling the airplane will be standing at
the
leading
>edge of the wing and the latch lever should point aft when the caps
are in
>place.
>
>Anyway, that's my vote. Good luck in getting agreement soon!
>
>Harry Crosby
>
Why should the lever point aft? Most that I have seen point
forward.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Problem!! with Cap Engraving Please read if you have |
sent Caps.
Please engrave my caps as Paul's are.
Forrest Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs |
| From: | scott.fink(at)microchip.com |
12/03/99 02:12:26 PM
Tim,
In order to (legally) use auto gas at a city of Phoenix airport we were
required to take a 2 hour course. It boils down to this:
You must use metal gas cans (never, never plastic per your subject line)
You must use a metal funnel
The airplane must be "bonded" to earth (i.e. grounded with a wire)
The funnel is bonded to the plane (with a wire)
The gas can is bonded to the funnel. (again with a wire)
You can use wires for bonding with metal clips that can be bought at Radio
Shack.
The whole idea is to provide a path for any electrons stripped off by the
flowing fuel a way to return from where they came and to hold everything at
one electrical potential. If everything is at the same potential (plane,
funnel, gas can and therefore gas) there is no chance for a spark.
We are also required to have a fire extinguisher nearby during the fueling.
Hope this helps,
Scott Fink
RV6 - about to close left wing
"Tim Lewis"
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Articles
on refueling with plastic jugs
ronics.com
11/30/1999 05:42 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
Listers,
Over the last couple of years I've read articles (Sport Aviation or
AOPA Pilot, I think) on the hazards of refueling aircraft using 5 gallon
gas cans. The danger is static electricity discharge causing fire. I'm
looking for a safe way (if there is one) of transfering fuel this way.
If anybody knows the location of good articles on this topic please let
me know.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs |
One more good idea is to have the hangar door open when doing the fueling---
if you have a hangar!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: scott.fink(at)microchip.com <scott.fink(at)microchip.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs
>
>
>Tim,
>
>In order to (legally) use auto gas at a city of Phoenix airport we were
>required to take a 2 hour course. It boils down to this:
>
>You must use metal gas cans (never, never plastic per your subject line)
>
>You must use a metal funnel
>
>The airplane must be "bonded" to earth (i.e. grounded with a wire)
>The funnel is bonded to the plane (with a wire)
>The gas can is bonded to the funnel. (again with a wire)
>
>You can use wires for bonding with metal clips that can be bought at Radio
>Shack.
>
>The whole idea is to provide a path for any electrons stripped off by the
>flowing fuel a way to return from where they came and to hold everything at
>one electrical potential. If everything is at the same potential (plane,
>funnel, gas can and therefore gas) there is no chance for a spark.
>
>We are also required to have a fire extinguisher nearby during the fueling.
>
>Hope this helps,
>Scott Fink
>RV6 - about to close left wing
>
>
> "Tim Lewis"
> To:
rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent by: cc:
> owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List:
Articles on refueling with plastic jugs
> ronics.com
>
>
> 11/30/1999 05:42 AM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Over the last couple of years I've read articles (Sport Aviation or
>AOPA Pilot, I think) on the hazards of refueling aircraft using 5 gallon
>gas cans. The danger is static electricity discharge causing fire. I'm
>looking for a safe way (if there is one) of transfering fuel this way.
>
>If anybody knows the location of good articles on this topic please let
>me know.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Lewis
>******
>Tim Lewis
>timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
>N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Exhaust |
I had a similar problem with a Vetterman Exhaust from Van's, although they
could not help me. I have an IO-360-B1E (180 HP) engine which I have moved
the injection to face forward. When I called Van's and asked which exhaust
to use they suggested the one for an O-360, when it arrived, I realized it
was a cross-over system and would not go under the IO-360 oil pan. I sent
it back and asked they to send me one for an IO-360...when it arrived I
found out that the flanges are turned a different way on the 200HP and it
would not bolt up. I thought I would take it to a local modification
business for aircraft and have them cut the flanges and turn them for me,
but I decided to call Larry Vetterman first. He told me to send it back to
him and he would build me a custom exhaust for my engine for an additional
$115.00. For that price I figured, how could I loose. I sent the exhaust
to Larry and he build me a beautiful exhaust that fits like a glove. He
told me the exhaust I sent him was for an RV-8A and not for an -8 and would
not have fit my airplane anyway. I too can not say enough about how
helpful and pleasant Larry was to me and he also returned me a perfect
exhaust in under a month.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone tell me where to get an RV tail fairing?
Thanks, Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailwheel Fairing |
I meant to say, can anyone tell me where to get an RV tail wheel fairing?
Thanks, Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Fairing |
Hi Chuck
Van's sells them . Page 39 in the catalog for $ 40.00 They add the finish
look
Dwain
RV-6
260 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> Has anyone with a FLYING RV that uses the engines that
> Van recommends (Lycoming) ever had any carb ice?
>
> After 470 hours, I have never seen any carb ice. I
> also have CAT prop in the engine.
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
Yes.
It happened in November 98. As best as I can recall, I was flying at
2000' under a 2800' ceiling. Visibility was approximately 8 miles. OAT
was around 40 deg. F. I don't know what the temperature-dew point spread
was. I had been cruising at 2450 rpm. The rpm dropped to about 2200
before I noticed it. (I was busy at the time.) Additional throttle did
nothing. I applied carb heat, and after about a minute, the rpms returned
to normal.
One other time I encountered what I think may have been the early stages
of carb icing. I don't remember the exact conditions except that it was
legal VFR, but a long way from CAVU. Carb heat cleared the symptoms
almost immediately.
My airplane -- RV-6 (460 hours since April 97); Lyc. O-320 D2J; Sensenich
fixed metal prop; carburator (no temperature probe; standard FAB air box;
Robbins carb heat muff mounted on the crossover, just above the air box.
On run-up, I typically get a 30 rpm drop with carb heat.
Mark Nielsen
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Fairing |
-- GRAYK9(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I meant to say, can anyone tell me where to get an RV tail wheel
> fairing?
> Thanks, Chuck
Van's catalog.
Page 39.
P/N TWF-T.
$40.00 USD
:)
Just happen to be making out my Christmas list!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I'm close to attaching the top skin on my forward fuselage and have decided
to go ahead and plumb everything for the vacuum system I'll install when I
find $2,000 laying on the sidewalk...
Anyway, at this time, I don't want to install a vacuum pump, gyros, a vacuum
gauge, etc. I do want to install all of the other stuff so the system is more
or less "plug & play" when I get the expensive parts. I assume I'll need a
filter, a regulator, a firewall pass through, and some tubing. Have I
forgotten anything?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Flaring Tool] |
> So are there good reasons NOT to use steel fuel lines that I, in my
> inexperience, am simply not aware of?
I am no expert in aircraft design, but I can think of two good reasons: 1)
airplanes use aluminum fuel lines - be extremely careful in changing
anything from "standard" aircraft design, and 2) as the airframe moves
under stress, strain is imparted to the fuel lines. Steel lines will see 3
times the stress loads as aluminum when deflected the same amount. Good
enough reasons for me.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Flaring Tool] |
In a message dated 12/3/99 10:09:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
37.-0000(at)matronics.com writes:
<<
Granted, you can't say "what's an extra few ounces or a pound" all the
way through your airplane, or it will turn out heavy. But in the area
of fuel lines and fittings, and oil lines and fittings, I could justify
a little extra weight in order to enhance safety and reliability.
So are there good reasons NOT to use steel fuel lines that I, in my
inexperience, am simply not aware of?
George True, Phoenix AZ
>>
Steel fuel lines won`t properly mate up and seal to AN fittings
Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a very FAST RV prop for sale. Its a custom cut
Performance Props 69 dia, 71 pitch. 230mph on my RV3.
Drilled for 7/16 prop bolts. Should be a great cruise prop
for a 150-160hp RV4-6. Super Race prop for a 160 RV3.
225 hours on prop, excellent condition. Santa buying me
a constant speed for Christmas. $750 firm......................
Tom
RV3 978TM
Northern California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs |
I would NEVER refuel an aircraft inside a hanger. I have seen 3 hangers
burn this way.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs
>
> One more good idea is to have the hangar door open when doing the
fueling---
> if you have a hangar!!
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scott.fink(at)microchip.com <scott.fink(at)microchip.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 3:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Articles on refueling with plastic jugs
>
>
> >
> >
> >Tim,
> >
> >In order to (legally) use auto gas at a city of Phoenix airport we were
> >required to take a 2 hour course. It boils down to this:
> >
> >You must use metal gas cans (never, never plastic per your subject line)
> >
> >You must use a metal funnel
> >
> >The airplane must be "bonded" to earth (i.e. grounded with a wire)
> >The funnel is bonded to the plane (with a wire)
> >The gas can is bonded to the funnel. (again with a wire)
> >
> >You can use wires for bonding with metal clips that can be bought at
Radio
> >Shack.
> >
> >The whole idea is to provide a path for any electrons stripped off by the
> >flowing fuel a way to return from where they came and to hold everything
at
> >one electrical potential. If everything is at the same potential (plane,
> >funnel, gas can and therefore gas) there is no chance for a spark.
> >
> >We are also required to have a fire extinguisher nearby during the
fueling.
> >
> >Hope this helps,
> >Scott Fink
> >RV6 - about to close left wing
> >
> >
> > "Tim Lewis"
> > To:
> rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent by: cc:
> > owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List:
> Articles on refueling with plastic jugs
> > ronics.com
> >
> >
> > 11/30/1999 05:42 AM
> > Please respond to
> > rv-list
> >
> >
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >Over the last couple of years I've read articles (Sport Aviation or
> >AOPA Pilot, I think) on the hazards of refueling aircraft using 5 gallon
> >gas cans. The danger is static electricity discharge causing fire. I'm
> >looking for a safe way (if there is one) of transfering fuel this way.
> >
> >If anybody knows the location of good articles on this topic please let
> >me know.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Tim Lewis
> >******
> >Tim Lewis
> >timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
> >N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection scheduled 30 Nov 99
> >Springfield VA
> >http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> >http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Flaring Tool] |
I fail to see why a steel line would be subjected to more stress than an
aluminum line. See very few aluminum springs. Most automotive fuel lines
are steel. Injector lines for aircraft under high pressure are steel. A
simple loop in a line relieves most any destructive stresses. Where there is
a lot of movement, flexible hoses are placed inline even with aluminum.
Last but not least there is an AD for the 200 HP Lycoming in a Cessna
Cardinal to replace the aluminum prop governor line with a steel line with
aircraft steel fittings. Why the aluminum line and fittings were breaking.
The major reason is weight for aircraft, especially in the large -8 fittings
and lines. Aluminum is generally strong enough with no internal rust
problems. But plated steel lines have been in automotive use for years as
fuel lines and brake lines as it is cheaper without the electrolysis
problems of aluminum. Probably the ideal would be titanium except for the
cost.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: [Fwd: Flaring Tool]
>
>
>> So are there good reasons NOT to use steel fuel lines that I, in my
>> inexperience, am simply not aware of?
>
>I am no expert in aircraft design, but I can think of two good reasons: 1)
>airplanes use aluminum fuel lines - be extremely careful in changing
>anything from "standard" aircraft design, and 2) as the airframe moves
>under stress, strain is imparted to the fuel lines. Steel lines will see 3
>times the stress loads as aluminum when deflected the same amount. Good
>enough reasons for me.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Flaring Tool] |
Funny the steel lines in the fuel injector system match quite well.
All it takes is the proper flaring tool that matches the fittings you want
to use.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ferdfly(at)aol.com <Ferdfly(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: [Fwd: Flaring Tool]
>
>In a message dated 12/3/99 10:09:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>37.-0000(at)matronics.com writes:
>
><<
> Granted, you can't say "what's an extra few ounces or a pound" all the
> way through your airplane, or it will turn out heavy. But in the area
> of fuel lines and fittings, and oil lines and fittings, I could justify
> a little extra weight in order to enhance safety and reliability.
>
> So are there good reasons NOT to use steel fuel lines that I, in my
> inexperience, am simply not aware of?
>
> George True, Phoenix AZ
> >>
>Steel fuel lines won`t properly mate up and seal to AN fittings
> Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Cell Battery |
>
>I believe that the Powersonic is a gel cell battery. I am looking through
>my stuff.
To a large number of people who sell batteries,
ANY battery that is sealed and doesn't slosh is
a "gel" battery. I've found a number of websites
that specifically call the RG batteries a "gel". . .
Fortunately, they're actually recombinant gas
(or starved electrolyte) construction that exhibits
cold weather cranking performance 2-4 times better
than a flooded battery and 3-6 times better than
a gel-cel.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
I am trying to decide where to mount the fuel flow sensor on my RV6A,
0-360A1A w/carb. I checked the archives and there doesn't seem to be a
"best place" as I can tell. I am waffling between two locations.
1. Between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. Seems a bit tight
there with the rudder pedals, and I havn't quite figured out how to mount
it or just let the fuel line support it. ( I know the wires have to be
mounted up).
2. Between the fuel selector valve and the inlet to the electric fuel
pump, down low in front of the spar. (I am a bit concerned about stepping
on it or kicking it getting in and out.
What say ye o wise ones. Where did ya put yours (fuel flow sensor) and if
you had it to do over, would you change it.
Thanks,
Wes Hays
RV6A
Rotan, TX
Finishing up the fuel system.
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | servo and governor wiring |
If anyone has pondered over how to wire a Mac servo with a Matronics
Governor the following information from Matt may shed some light on the
process.
The reference material is the installation manual for the Servo and
Governor.
the divide-and-conquer technique works out well here.
>Figure 2 is really showing you *three* separate things being wired up:
>The switch/power to the servo, the LED display to the servo/power, and
>finally the LED dimmer circuit to the aircraft dimmer.
>
>I would recommend wiring up the switch through the Governor MkIII to the
>servo first. This would involve only the two WHITE wires on the servo.
>Basically just refer to the Governor MkIII wiring manual and make sure
>the servo works like you expect.
>
>Next, wire up the LED indicator. Figure 6 on the Mac manual basically
>shows just this perfectly. Its actually for the Needle-type indicator,
>but the wiring is exactly the same. Basically its just hooking up the
>GREEN, ORANGE, and BLUE wires on the servo to the same colors on the
>indicator. Then, connect the RED wire from the indicator to +12 and the
>black wire on the indicator to GROUND. Power up and run the servo
>back and forth with the switch and verify that the indicator reflects
>the position.
>
>Finally, connect the remaining WHITE wire coming from the indicator to
>your aircraft dimmer circuit.
Derek Reed 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Personal experience with Aircraft fire |
Seeing the list discussion regarding refueling and some of the risks, I
would like to offer a personal experience that happened to me about two
years ago. Those of you on the list then may recall this, but its meant for
the many newer list members. You can draw your own conclusions but I no
longer use plastic in any refueling operation.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW
Orginal Post
Am sending this to the entire RV-List even though it is a little on the
long side as I believe others can benefit from the following experience.
I had a rather exciting experience that occurred while refueling my
RV-6A. I have a Mazda 13B as a power plant using auto fuel. Not having
auto fuel at the airport, I have been transporting it in a 5 gallon
plastic container (approved for auto fuel) and using a funnel to pour
the gasoline into the wing tank. Sensitive to the risks of static
electricity, I always "grounded" (I know - I question whether you can
truly "ground" a plastic container) the plastic container against the
airframe prior to pouring in the gasoline. I have refuel the aircraft
many times before using this method (as well numerous lawn mowers, weed
wackers, etc). I had hauled the aircraft out of the hangar and had it
sitting in the middle of the tarmac in front of the hanger and had
commenced to refuel.
Well, this time it happened. As I was approximately half-way through
pouring from the five gallon container into the funnel (the plastic
funnel is a very wide mouth with a filter cartridge in its center- used
to quickly fill race cars) the fireworks started. The gasoline ignited
with a "Swoosh" and I found myself holding a flaming funnel as well as
the five gallon container which had flames coming from its opening.
Needless to say, things got very exciting and busy in a hurry. As I
reacted to the flames going off, I swung the container away ,which was
in my right hand, removed the flaming funnel from the wing tank opening
with my left hand. In the process I sloshed some flaming gasoline onto
the wing and tarmac. And flames were now also coming from the opening
of the wing tank. So by quick count, I had flames coming out of the
wing tank, some burning on the wing, a patch burning on the tarmac, a
flaming funnel as well as the 5 gallon container on fire. Did I say
things got exciting in a hurry? I immediately move the flaming
container about 12-15 feet away from the aircraft and set it down,
quickly move the flaming funnel about 5 feet from the container and laid
it down.. Immediately dashed to the plane and placed the fuel cap into
the tank opening stuffing out that fire, smothered the fire on the wing,
ran back to the container and placed its lid on the flaming opening
smothering that fire, moved the still flaming funnel further away,
smother the fire on the tarmac and then returned to smother the funnel.
Finally, all fires are extinguished and I take time for a breath.
Wasn't timing myself as I was somewhat distracted at the moment, but
believe the entire event from ignition to all flames out was around
30-45 seconds (could be wrong about the time, but not by much). Old men
can move quickly if motivated properly.
Yes, I did have a fire extinguisher, but had neglected to take it out of
the car and didn't feel I had the time to dash to the car to get it.. I
also have a small Halon fire extinguisher mounted between the seats of
aircraft - but, again distance and flames were between it and me.
Won't make that mistake again. Also, I will never use a plastic
container again, but will use a metal one with a little cable attached
that I can ground to the aircraft. I will also not use a funnel, but
will probably use one of the rotary pumps with hose and nozzle grounded.
So the good news is no damage to me or the aircraft and a much wiser me.
So, while it had not ever happened before, I quickly found out that one
time is one time too many.
For your consideration
Regards
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal/Vertical Stab problems |
>because in general, the
>workmanship of the Phillippinos is excellent, and most of the time
>everything fits up perfectly.
Walt, in a previous rvator, there was an article about the construction of
the quickbuilds, they assemble the fuselage in 2 to 3 days. I can't
imagine how they do it and still do such a great job.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 Air Box and Ellison Throttle Body Injector |
I have a Thorp T-18 that uses an Ellison Throttle Body injector with a Vans
RV6 air filter box, (the banjo style bowl). I have tried several
configurations with the 150 HP Lyc /airbox/mounting configuration an have yet
to find the ideal setup to give me even fuel distribution at all (Most)
powersettings and altitudes. It is either too rich for some cylinders at full
power and smoother at other throttle settings or great at full power (limit
the slide movement) and not so good at lower throttle settings.
I'm looking for someone who has the ideal setup to tell me exactly what the
configuration is. How deep is the box, what are the dimensions, what kind of
filter, baffles, flow guides etc are you using?
Don't misunderstand this request, this installation works better than a float
carb right now, I just want to make it great.
Joe Gauthier /David Faile
n22607(at)aol.com
(869) 635-4058
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop pitch confusion |
I don't get it, I'm just starting to look for a prop for my plane and I
can't seem to get the picture on how to pick the right pitch. I looked up
the prop spec on Sensenich's wood prop web site and found they recomend a
68"x 78-80" prop for an RV-4 with 150hp. I see Thomas McIntyre advertise
his prop as a good 230mph RV3 cruise prop with only a 71" pitch - he flew it
so it must work, but how? Are there big differences in the way prop makers
determine pitch?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse almost done
Engine being rebuilt
I need a prop!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
Try Van's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | strobe positon question |
if i install perturbing wing tip strobe/position lights, a tail
strobe/postion light (in lower part of rudder), and a belly strobe, must i
have additional strobe on top of fusel. or on vert stab??? thanx, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop pitch confusion |
>
>I don't get it, I'm just starting to look for a prop for my plane and I
>can't seem to get the picture on how to pick the right pitch. I looked up
>the prop spec on Sensenich's wood prop web site and found they recomend a
>68"x 78-80" prop for an RV-4 with 150hp. I see Thomas McIntyre advertise
>his prop as a good 230mph RV3 cruise prop with only a 71" pitch - he flew it
>so it must work, but how? Are there big differences in the way prop makers
>determine pitch?
>
>Pat Perry
Yes, every prop manufacturer determines pitch in his own way, so you
cannot compare pitch numbers from one manufacturer to another. If
you can find someone who has the same aircraft and engine as you,
they are happy with the prop, and you are happy with the numbers they
are quoting, then ask the same manufacturer to make one with those
specs. Failing that, the larger manufacturers should have a good
handle on what pitch prop a particular RV/engine combination needs.
Talk to them and they may be able to help you decide on the best
pitch.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor Location? |
In a message dated 12/3/99 6:43:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, whays(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I am trying to decide where to mount the fuel flow sensor on my RV6A,
0-360A1A w/carb. I checked the archives and there doesn't seem to be a
"best place" as I can tell. I am waffling between two locations.
1. Between the electric fuel pump and the firewall. Seems a bit tight
there with the rudder pedals, and I haven't quite figured out how to mount
it or just let the fuel line support it. ( I know the wires have to be
mounted up).
2. Between the fuel selector valve and the inlet to the electric fuel
pump, down low in front of the spar. (I am a bit concerned about stepping
on it or kicking it getting in and out.
What say ye o wise ones. Where did ya put yours (fuel flow sensor) and if
you had it to do over, would you change it. >>
I've got the same engine and the VM1000. My flow sender is mounted on the
firewall plumbed from the mechanical fuel pump outlet and the carb inlet
using straight fitting hoses and 45 deg angled flare fittings. Works great
and I'd do it the same way again.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System |
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm close to attaching the top skin on my forward fuselage and have decided
> to go ahead and plumb everything for the vacuum system I'll install when I
> find $2,000 laying on the sidewalk...
If you find 2 grand laying on a sidewalk, please tell me the particular
sidewalk. I could use a few bucks too.
>
>
> Anyway, at this time, I don't want to install a vacuum pump, gyros, a vacuum
> gauge, etc. I do want to install all of the other stuff so the system is more
> or less "plug & play" when I get the expensive parts. I assume I'll need a
> filter, a regulator, a firewall pass through, and some tubing. Have I
> forgotten anything?
I used the Rapco vacuum system kit. The kit comes with everything you need for
installation. Top notch kit. I would not have wanted to try and install the
vacuum and gyros in my almost completed aircraft with the panel, top fwd skin
and windscreen in place. Clearance holes need to be cut everywhere. If you can
swing it, do it now.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop pitch confusion |
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, December 04, 1999 3:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop pitch confusion
>
>I don't get it, I'm just starting to look for a prop for my plane and I
>can't seem to get the picture on how to pick the right pitch. I looked up
>the prop spec on Sensenich's wood prop web site and found they recomend a
November 26, 1999 - December 03, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hk